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Constructing Eighteenth-century
Meaning in a Prehistoric Landscape:
Charles Bridgemans Design for
Amesbury Abbey
Sue Haynes
University of East Anglia
Introduction
Amesbury Abbey stands on the River Avon within the Stonehenge heritage landscape,
three kilometres east of the monument itself. It is a historically multi-layered place,
and this article considers the relationship between two of its layers, the 1738 landscape
DOI 10.1179/1466203513Z.00000000018
SUE HAYNES
156
figure 1 Charles Bridgemans design for Amesbury Abbey, 1738. Source: Bodleian Library,
Oxford, MS a3*, fo.32.
park designed by Charles Bridgeman and the prehistoric landscape, the latter both
embedded in the former, and surrounding it (Figure 1). The site is dominated by a
prehistoric earthwork, the heavily wooded univallate Iron Age hillfort known as
Vespasians Camp, enclosing 15 ha and rising to 91m at its highest point. Bridgemans
157
design makes use of the south-eastern ramparts, and the remains of one of two Bronze
Age barrows on the summit of the hill-fort appears to be the focus of rising and
tapering grassy terraces. The prehistoric monuments are part of the Stonehenge World
Heritage Site, and the extent to which they were modified by eighteenth-century
landscaping is of considerable interest.
It is often assumed that prehistoric monuments such as Vespasians Camp have
such a large presence in a landscape that consciousness of them constructs meaning
in all subsequent historical periods. Richard Bradley, in Altering the Earth,
suggests: A monument may change its meaning from one period to another
without necessarily changing its form. It can be adapted, it can be left alone, but
unless it is actually destroyed, it is almost impossible to eradicate it from human
experience (Bradley 1993, 5). Mark Bowdens discussion of the reinterpretation of
the Iron Age oppida at Stanwick Park and Forcett Hall in North Yorkshire in the
eighteenth century develops this idea to consider what meaning might have been
constructed for the eighteenth-century designers and their patrons. He asks
whether the prehistoric earthworks were numinous to them, or merely
convenient?(Bowden 1998, 25). At Amesbury, Bridgemans design seems to have
been a conscious reinterpretation of the prehistoric landscape, informed by the
culture and practices of the eighteenth century.
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SUE HAYNES
159
figure 2 A map showing the features of Bridgemans design still visible. Key: A: unidentified
earthwork; B: edge of the square feature (shown on Bridgemans plan); C: ditch; D: apsidal
depression; E: Chinese summerhouse; F: path from ramparts (shown on Bridgemans plan);
G: Gays Cave and apron (shown on Bridgemans plan); H: the path from Stonehenge Road
(shown on Bridgemans plan); I: the diamond-shaped earthworks (shown on Bridgemans
plan); J: path descending to the south-west; K: circular feature (shown on Bridgemans plan);
L: ditch; M: rising geometric terraces (shown on Bridgemans plan); N: pit (corresponding to
bastion shown on Bridgemans plan); O: Bronze age round barrow.
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SUE HAYNES
figure 3 Detail from Dury and Andrews map of Wiltshire showing the extent of Bridgemans
design in 1773. Source: http://history.wiltshire.gov.uk/gallery/map/amesbury_map.73.002.
jpg
161
figure 4 Gays
Cave and the
Diamond in 1915.
Source: Wiltshire
and Swindon
History Centre,
Chippenham.
degraded and no longer right-angled (Figure 2, M). Dury and Andrews show that,
even by 1773, this space had become triangular. It seems likely that the rightangled borders to the terraces were not destroyed but filled in with planting,
perhaps with the box that now grows in the vicinity. A diary entry by Lady Sophia
Newdigate while on a tour of the area, probably in 1747, seems to record the
moment at which this happened: here is about 40 acres part of which is very well
disposd there is a high hill in ye Garden in a very stiff formal taste at present but
going to be altered (Warwickshire RO, CR 1841/7). In the north-eastern section
of the hillfort, in an area of pheasant rearing pens, the land becomes relatively flat.
On the eastern edge, a clear straight edge is visible, planted at some time in the past
with yew trees (Figure 2, B). Dury and Andrews depict a square feature in this area
planted with single trees. This seems to correspond with the square feature on
Bridgemans plan. Immediately to the east of the entrance from Stonehenge Road,
overgrown box surmounts a small semi-circular earthwork that partly encloses a
pit approximately one metre deep, now containing rubbish (Figure 2, N). This
seems to be in the same place as a bastion on Bridgemans plan, and is also shown
by Dury and Andrews.
A Chinese summerhouse, built of knapped flint and wood, which was restored
in 1986 (Crowley 2003, 57), is not depicted on Bridgemans plan. Shown on
Dury and Andrews in 1773, it had been built by 1747 when Lady Sophia
Newdigate commented on it pejoratively: They have lately built a Chinese house
of flint no very proper material for ye purpose this stands upon ye river wch is its
whole merit (Warws RO CR 1841/7.) It is not entirely clear whether its
construction occurred before Bridgemans death or in the nine-year interval
between his death in 1738 and 1747. Lady Sophia Newdigates use of the word
lately suggests the latter.
The only other feature of Vespasians Camp that does not appear on
Bridgemans design is a very substantial ditch, in places at least 2m deep,
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SUE HAYNES
figure 6 Flitcrofts
survey of 1725
showing the extent
of the estate to the
east of the River
Avon. Source:
Wiltshire and
Swindon History
Centre,
Chippenham.
163
running beside the path F (Figure 2, C). It is planted at regular intervals with
yew trees. It is of unclear origin but it seems likely this ditch was necessary for
the construction of the path, which, especially at its southern end, is cut into a
very steep slope. However, it is also possible that it is of more ancient origin
and pre-dates the eighteenth-century landscaping, which simply sharpened
and deepened it in excavating the walk. It may have marked the boundary
between the arable land of Half Borough Field and the meadow land to the
east (Figure 5). The line of the ditch continues as a boundary, eastwards
towards Countess Farm.
Although Bridgemans plan is dated 1738, it seems probable that he was
involved with the estate from around 1730, and the plan perhaps to some
degree depicts what he had already done, not only what was proposed.
Bridgeman was linked to the Duke and Duchess of Queensberry through
Henrietta Howard and John Gay (Willis 1977, 53). The evidence of letters
suggests that he was involved at Amesbury from 1730, when the Duchess and
Gay wrote to Henrietta Howard: We wonder we have heard nothing from Mr
Bridgeman, if you chance to see him, pray tell him so (Burgess 1966, 96). In
her reply two days later, Henrietta Howard reported that Bridgeman says that
the gardens are kept as they ought to be and at very reasonable expense; but
he will very soon bring [her] the account, and a positive agreement, if it be
such as the Duchess approves, which suggests that some work had taken place
(Willis 1977, 53). By 1737, it is clear from a letter in which the Duchess asks
Henrietta Howard to thank Lord Scarborough for beech-mast, that planting of
trees had begun. In it she describes herself as planting mad (Murray 1824,
volume 2, 160).
It is likely, however, that any construction undertaken before Bridgemans
death would have been confined to the eastern side of the river. Estate records
suggest emparkment to the west of the River Avon was a complicated and
piecemeal process, and only finally completed in 1742. In 1726 the architect
Henry Flitcroft carried out a survey of the Duke of Queensberrys newly
inherited estate, and this offers a comprehensive picture of the land owned by
the estate (WRO 944/1) (Figures 5 and 6). It shows that of the land over which
Bridgemans design would eventually be constructed, only the demesne lands
and the meadow land on the eastern bank of the River Avon Laundry Mead,
Upper Folds and Lower Folds were entirely in the possession of the estate.
The land within the ramparts of Vespasians Camp, known as Walls Fields,
was under open-field cultivation, and the survey shows that of twelve strips,
only five were owned by the estate (WRO 944/1, 944/2). A significant
proportion of the remaining seven strips, and some of the land surrounding the
hillfort, was part of the manor of Dawbeneys and Souths, owned by Sir Philip
Hayward. The remaining strips, and meadow land to the south-east of the
hillfort, was owned by a number of individuals. The process of acquiring all
this land appears to have taken from 1726, when Flitcrofts survey records the
Duke of Queensberrys intention to buy the manors of Dawbeneys and Souths
(WRO 944/2), to 1742 when the enclosure of the final strips within Walls Field
was completed (WRO 283/6/2).
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SUE HAYNES
165
can not enjoy the happiness of your good Company before Friday afternoon at
whch time I hoped to have your good Company to Ambresbury (Bodleian
Library Gough. Gen.139). Bridgeman and Flitcroft both worked at Amesbury
Abbey, and collaborated on other houses and landscapes including Bower House
(Willis 1977, 51). Stukeley was also associated with aristocrats with connections
to the Duke and Duchess of Queensberry. For example Lord Pembroke is
mentioned in the correspondence of the Duchess of Queensberry (Murray 1824,
Vol.2 1824, 98). A further connection between Stukeley and the Duke of
Queensberry emerges through the Society of Roman Knights, an antiquarian
society whose members took names from Romano-British notables (Piggott
1985, 53) and of which Stukeley was a founder member. Alexander Gordon,
author of Itinerarium Septentrionale, published in 1726, was a fellow member
whose principal patron was the Duke of Queensberry (Ayres 1997, 99). It is,
therefore, reasonable to assume, although without documentary evidence, that
Bridgeman and his patrons were aware of the current antiquarian scholarship
about the Stonehenge landscape.
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SUE HAYNES
Gays Cave
It is in the design of Gays Cave that the influence of this pervasive preoccupation
with ancient Rome comes into sharpest focus. Gays Cave is attributed to Flitcroft
(presumably because the design of the new blocks added to the house in the late
1740s and early 1750s has been attributed to him) or to William Chambers
(Crowley 1995, 55). However, in the design of its pedimented centre, and in its
site, it strongly resembles William Kents design for The Hermitage in Richmond
Park (Figures 7 and 8). It is even possible that Kent had some influence over the
design of Gays Cave, given that Flitcroft supervised work on The Hermitage,
in 1730, in his capacity as the Clerk of Works at Richmond. John Cloakes
description of The Hermitage in Palaces and Parks of Richmond and Kew suggests
that there is a close correlation between the two structures (Cloake 1996, 38).
They were sited in similar locations, Gays Cave cut into chalk in a cliff above the
River Avon, and The Hermitage cut into an artificial mound so that, as Cloake
records, the building appeared to be built into the side of a hill. Both are faced
with roughly cut stone, their pediments appearing to be partly overgrown. Both
have an arch with prominent springers, voussoirs and keystone, leading to an
interior with a vaulted ceiling and dressed stone niches. In the Hermitage the
niches are filled with busts of famous scholars, but in Gays Cave they are empty,
although it is tempting to speculate, although without any evidence beyond the
name of the feature, that it was the intention to fill them with memorials to John
Gay, following his death in 1732. It is clear from a letter written by the Duchess of
Queensberry to the Countess of Suffolk in 1734 that she felt his death keenly: I
often want poor Mr Gay, and on this occasion extremely.his loss was really
great, but it is a satisfaction to have known so good a man (Murray 1824, Vol.2,
109). However, it seems improbable that, as local rumour has it, John Gay wrote
the Beggars Opera in it.
Light may be thrown on the intention behind the design of Gays Cave by Kents
representation of The Hermitage as a Roman pastoral idyll in a drawing of the
Hermitage embellished with a drawing of a satyr kissing the hand of a female
figure, and the word Arcadia inscribed in red ink (www.soane.org.uk/drawings)
(Figure 7). If this representation throws light on the intention behind the design of
the Hermitage, it may also help our interpretation of Gays Cave. Perhaps the
design of Gays Cave was intended to be a general echo of classical times, rather
than a more specific reflection of Stukeleys perception of the hillfort as Roman,
but if so, it created a curious mixture: a quasi-Roman grotto modifying a perceived
Roman (but in fact Iron Age) rampart, evoking a notion of ancient Rome entirely
mediated through an eighteenth-century aesthetic.
The re-use of the Iron Age ramparts and the Bronze Age barrows
Apart from the construction of Gays Cave, there is little other evidence that
Bridgeman and his patrons placed any value on their prehistoric monuments.
Although Gays Cave may be a nod to the perceived Roman origins of its site it,
and the diamond of earthworks that surrounds it, represents a radical modification
of the defences of the hillfort. Considerable earthmoving would have been required
167
figure 9 Flitcrofts Survey of 1725 superimposed on with 1976 Ordnance Survey map
showing the location of open field strips within the ramparts of Walls Fields. Source:
www.edina.ac.uk and Wiltshire and Swindon History Centre, Chippenham. Georeferencing:
S.Haynes.
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SUE HAYNES
to create the large apron in front of the cave and the cave itself, so that Colt
Hoares description, It was surrounded by a single vallum which has been much
mutilated on the east side in forming the pleasure grounds of Amesbury Abbey,
seems accurate (Colt Hoare 1810, 160). It is not clear whether Colt Hoare was
recording the actual destruction of the ramparts on the east of the hillfort, or
whether he is assuming they were present and are now destroyed. Whichever, it is
clear that the preservation of the earthworks in their original state was not a
priority. This treatment of prehistoric earthworks is echoed in the treatment of the
smaller of the two barrows, Amesbury G25 (Figure 2, O), depicted in Stukeleys
drawings, and described by both Stukeley and Colt Hoare. It is now bisected by
the drive, which runs along the spine of the hillfort, possibly because its position
made it impossible to avoid, and is partly destroyed. Since Stukeley identified it as
celtic it is likely that Bridgeman and his patrons had some sense of its origins, and
therefore its destruction seems to have been a deliberate act, which does not
suggest veneration for prehistory. It is, however, possible that its destruction
occurred later, in the 1770 landscaping.
The picture is further complicated by the identification of the circular feature
close to the summit of the hillfort as a Bronze Age barrow, identified as Amesbury
G24. It has been suggested, in discussions of Bridgemans design for Amesbury
Abbey, that he incorporated this barrow into his design (Willis 1977, 54; Smith
2006, 246). If Bridgeman had deliberately designed a landscape with this as its
focus, it might offer a significantly different perspective on his and his patrons
attitude to prehistoric remains. There are, however, some problems with this
viewpoint. The first is that Flitcrofts survey shows that the land within the
ramparts of the hillfort was under open field cultivation in 1726, and this remained
the case until 1742. It is doubtful whether a barrow would have survived openfield cultivation (WRO 944/1). Whyte has shown that barrows in open fields were
used as boundary markers (Whyte 2003, 6), but neither of the barrows under
discussion here stands on a significant boundary. In fact, the larger barrow appears
to straddle two strips and covers almost half of one, making it difficult to imagine
that cultivation of that strip would have been possible had the barrow existed as a
raised mound (Figure 9).
Secondly, antiquarian writing identifies only one barrow within the ramparts of
Vespasians Camp. Stukeleys description of Vespasians Camp in his Itinerarium
Curiosum records one barrow enclosd, but partly level (Stukeley 1724, 131) and
his map of the environs of Stonehenge shows only one (Bodleian Library Gough
Maps 229/9, 229/13, 229/14). Colt Hoare, describing the interior of the hillfort,
also notes on the highest ground, is the appearance of a band barrow, but much
disfigured in its form (Colt Hoare 1810, 160). It seems likely that this refers to
Amesbury G25, which might still be described in the same way today. The
suggestion that there were two barrows within the ramparts comes merely from
the manuscript annotation found in the lesser of two barrows in that part of Old
Ambresbury called Vespasians Camp on a drawing of bronzes that O.G.S.
Crawford discovered bound into Richard Goughs own copy of Horsleys Brit.
Romana, (Goddard 1913, 115). It is interesting that only after 1913 is the large
circular feature on the hillfort identified as Tumulus on Ordnance Survey maps.
169
There is, then, considerably more likelihood that the circular feature, rather than
being the site of Amesbury G24, is in fact the remains of Bridgemans circular
cabinet, a suggestion supported by the RCHME (RHCME 1979, 22). It is still
possible that the ditch on the outer perimeter of the south-eastern quadrant is the
ring ditch of a very large barrow, but it is most unlikely that such a ditch would
have survived open field cultivation. It is, therefore, either a tree planting ring or,
more likely, a ditch defining the outside edge of a circular lawn, with trees planted
beyond it, as shown in Bridgemans design (pers. comm. Mark Bowden).
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SUE HAYNES
secluded. To the south and east the park was closely bounded by the Abbey
precinct wall 220 metres from the house, and immediately behind it were the
gardens of the houses in the High Street (Figure 6) (WRO 944/1). Also to the south
of the house, gates from a semi-circular forecourt led into a double avenue of trees
which ran south to St Mary and St Melors church, terminating in an apsidal hedge
in front of the north transept. To the north, the rear elevation of the Mansion
House was clearly visible from the road, as Stukeleys drawing shows (Bodleian
Library Gough Maps 229/200). To the west, the view in 1726 was of the ramparts
of Vespasians Camp under open-field cultivation, not all the strips there being
owned by the estate (WRO 944/1). Seclusion here would have required much more
than the removal of a few farms and cottages.
Bridgemans design seems to deal with all these problems of seclusion. It is clear
that the axial avenue depicted by Flitcroft did indeed exist. It appears on Dury and
Andrews map of 1773 as a double row of trees, and is recorded by the Reverend
Arthur Phelps in 1870 (WRO 1552/1/2/13). Today it survives as a shallow
depression in the land visible in winter (Figure 10). However, it appears that rather
than uproot the trees in this avenue, Bridgeman instead obscured the church with,
in places, four rows of trees. Today, the thick belt of trees between Amesbury
Abbey and the church makes an effective visual barrier. To the west, because
Bridgemans design emparks Vespasians Camp, which rises above the flat meadow
land by the river, it very effectively conceals the boundary to the west, as well as
figure 10 The shallow depression marking the course of the double avenue of trees to the
church. Source: S. Haynes.
171
removing all signs of cultivation from the view from the garden. It seems possible
that for the Duke of Queensberry the design of the garden, and the acquisition of
the land on which to build it, was about concealing as much of his boundaries as
possible. Indeed, he had signalled that he intended to buy and keep in hand the
land immediately to the west of the River Avon (WRO 944/2).
An alternative is that, for Bridgeman, the genius loci at Amesbury Abbey was
located not in prehistory, but in the topography of the juxtaposition between the
hillfort and the River Avon beneath it. Although Willis concludes that
Bridgemans layout at Amesbury Abbey is fragmented and lacks a dominant,
cohesive idea (Willis 1977, 54), I would suggest that the axiality and the cohesion
are dependent on the site of Gays Cave. This was dug into the east-facing cliff
above the River Avon, the most dramatic of the topographic incidents, where the
Avon is closest to the ramparts. Bridgemans design places Gays Cave
equidistantly between the two ends of the straight stretch of the River Avon.
The 1st Edition OS map (1878) shows this clearly, although today the course of
the Avon is slightly altered. Practically, from the house, this is also the only place
on the east bank of the river where it is possible to get close to both the river and
the hillfort. It is, both pragmatically and topographically, the best place to site
Gays Cave. Bridgemans axis for the garden stretches from Gays Cave east across
the garden, through the bastion on the corner of the kitchen garden, to the focal
point on the precinct wall, and west upwards to the circular platform on the top of
the hillfort. Both the viewshed analysis and the planting of trees on the western
perimeter of the circular feature suggest that he did not intend a western extension
of this axis. This, also, coincidentally, makes it even less likely that the circular
feature was on the site of a barrow, unless by some happy coincidence a barrow
happened to be sited on exactly the right axial trajectory.
Conclusion
This article began by asking whether a prehistoric monument had such presence
in a landscape that a consciousness of it influenced how that landscape was
reinterpreted. At Amesbury Abbey there is some evidence that for Bridgeman and
his patrons the perceived Roman origins of the Iron Age hillfort informed the
building of Gays Cave. The evidence also suggests that any meaning the
prehistoric earthworks had for Bridgeman and his patrons bore only a tangential
relation to the antiquarian scholarship of the period, and was much more driven
by an eighteenth-century conception of ancient Rome. The answer to Mark
Bowdens question posed at the beginning of the article about whether prehistoric
earthworks were numinous or merely convenient to eighteenth-century
designers and their patrons seems, at Amesbury Abbey, to be that they were, to
a large degree, convenient.
When trying to evaluate the impact of a prehistoric earthwork in the eighteenth
century, we perhaps need to consider how our reading of material culture
produced in another century is influenced by twentieth- and twenty-first-century
perceptions of the past. There is a modern fascination with the common humanity
we share with our prehistoric ancestors, evident in the work of, among others,
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SUE HAYNES
Pryor and Tilley. The landscape at Amesbury Abbey suggests that, in the
eighteenth century, this was not the case. The reinterpretation of the prehistoric
earthworks here seems to have been driven by a combination of a number of
purely practical considerations with, crucially, a reading of the past that was
peculiar to early eighteenth-century England.
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank Professor Tom Williamson, Dr Sarah Spooner and Dr Jon
Gregory for all the help and encouragement they gave me in the preparation of this
article. My thanks also go to Sir Edward and Lady Antrobus for allowing me
access to Vespasians Camp, and to the Cornelius-Reid family, and in particular, to
David Cornelius-Reid, for allowing me such freedom in surveying Amesbury
Abbey and its grounds. I would also like to thank David Jacques for introducing
me to Vespasians Camp in the first place, and for his help with this project. My
final thanks go to Gilly Clarke and, in particular, to Mike Clarke. Mikes deep
knowledge of the site, so generously imparted, was invaluable.
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Notes on contributor
Sue Haynes is a research student at the University of East Anglia. She has an MA in
Landscape History and her current area of study is the landscapes of Charles
Bridgeman. She is also a part-time English teacher at a sixth form college in
Norfolk. Contact: suehaynes55@aol.com