Papercut Magazine May/June 2010 Issue

Papercut
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IN THIS ISSUE
04 FROM THE EDITOR
Hello and welcome to the world of Papercut Magazine!
THE LIFE
06 THE NEW YORK CHRONICLES
We put the city under the proverbial microscope.
08 ARE YOU FASHION?

Living it versus wearing it.
11 FASHION VICTIM
One shopaholic’s account of her addiction.
FASHION FORWARD
12 IN THE GARDEN OF EARTHLY DELIGHTS
Straight off the runway: the latest beauty trends for S/S 2010.
22 AFRICA, AZTECS, AND AVATAR

12 Fashion learns a thing or two from mother nature.
25 ON THE VERGE
Three very different up-and-coming fashion designers.
BUZZWORTHY
32 IRAN UNDERGROUND
Just how far Iraqi designers will go in the name of fashion.
34 FASHION GOING GREEN

Is the eco-friendly fashion trend here to stay?
32
36 THE IRREPRESSIBLE NARA PAZ
We talk one-on-one with Boston’s brightest star.
34
ON THE COVER
Photographed by NICOLE BECHARD

Styled by NICOLE HERZOG in one of her own designs
Makeup: GINA CATALDO of Sephora
Hair: AMANDA ORTIZ of Roberts Salon
Model: GABRIELLA COLLADO
2 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Hayley Maybury
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Nicole Bechard
TECHNICAL DIRECTOR
Jamall Oluokun
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Erin Berry
Brittnee Cann
Nora Gilligan
Nicole Herzog
Hayley Maybury
Noosha Talebzadeh
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS/PHOTOGRAPHERS
Nicole Bechard
Conor Doherty
Josh Howell
Zuza Zajczenko
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FROM THE EDITOR
HELLO AND WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF PAPERCUT !
First off, I must say how excited I am to finally be shar-

ing Papercut magazine with all of you! It has been a long time
coming and now that it is here I hope we all will agree it was
worth the wait! When we came up with the idea of starting an
online magazine we knew from the beginning that we wanted
it to be something that would cover a wide range of topics, have
a different concept then most fashion magazines, and most im-
portantly be something that we ourselves would actually read!
I want our reader to not only be interested in the informa-
tion that they find here on our website but also to be able to
actually take something away afterwards. Our staff has been
working together some time now, covering fashion and the arts
on many different levels. Being able to bring you news in a way
that is fun and easy to read while providing you with useful
knowledge is what Papercut is here to do.
For our debut our talented team of writers have come up
with some great articles that I am sure will grab your atten-
tion! In this issue we take on a wide range of topics. From an
interview with the ever fabulous designer Nara Paz to discuss
her struggles and triumphs as an emerging designer, to the
chronicles of a fashionista trying to make it in the big city.
There is also my personal favorite: an excellent article on Iran
underground fashion telling just how far Iraqi designers will
go to escape government control.
I, as well as the rest of the team, look forward to hear-
ing your feedback. If there is anything you think we should be
covering that we are not, we would love to know! This is your
magazine after all!
Enjoy friends,

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5
THE
CHRONICLES
Written by BRITTNEE CANN

W
hen I was younger I would take forever to get ready for school in the morning. I would try on a mil-
lion outfits before making a decision about what I was going to wear that day. My mom would yell
down to my room that life was not a fashion show and it didn’t matter what I wore. Ten years later,
I moved to New York City, where life is exactly that.
There has always been this city-versus-city debate over which region reigns supreme as the worlds “fashion
capital”. New York, London, Paris, Milan, Los Angeles...the jury might forever hang on the issue, but from an in-
sider’s perspective let me assure you that New York is serious about style. That’s not to say that you need to put
on a ball gown to go to the corner store but rather recognizing that wearing some printed pajama bottoms with
a slouchy t-shirt and fuzzy coat to run out for milk is a fashion statement in itself. Anywhere else an outfit like
that might look crazy but in this city it is the exact kind of unpredictable, wild style that is much appreciated.
In the past two months I’ve been stopped on the street four times to have my photo taken for various
fashion websites. I point this out not for bragging rights but rather as evidence that in this town, the street is
exactly where fashion inspiration comes from. Walking around you really can’t make it more than three city
blocks without having to stop to ogle at someone’s amazing shoes or bag or jacket or what-have-you. New York
is flooded with fashionable men and women between the ages of 1 and 100; I mean that quite literally. I’ve met
girls as young as four and women as old as sixty-two all of whom have an exceptionally unique and experimental
sense of style. Even fellow New Yorker and famed designer Marc Jacobs keeps his eye on the city’s residents.
For his Fall/Winter 2010 collection show this past fashion week, Jacobs took to the streets himself in search of
non-model girls to walk his runway, to prove the point that fashion is more about style than it is anything else.
New York really celebrates the art of

fashion and the whole industry unlike any
other place in the world. During the annual
“Fashion’s Night Out” event on September
10th last fall, the entire city was one giant
party. Stores all around from 59th street
down to Soho opened their doors to invite the
public in for free hors d’oeuvres and cham-
pagne. The Chanel store was full of women
waiting to get a free manicure with the
brand’s newest jade lacquer, DKNY enlisted
model Coco Rocha for a step-dancing perfor-
mance, Bergdorf Goodman had a life-size
fashion board game hosted by Vogue’s Andre
Leon Talley, Mary-Kate and Ashley were be-
hind the bar serving drinks at Barneys, the
Prada store had the super-hip band Rapture
perform...and this is only five of the umpteen
events that happened in a four-hour time
span that night.
Home to many American-based fashion
labels and magazines, there is something
about New York that draws attention from
fashion followers everywhere. In the forth-
coming issues, I will put the city under a pro-
verbial microscope in attempt to figure out
just what it is about this place that allows
it to cultivate and harness incredible style
within its five boroughs. I want to figure out
just what makes the city that never sleeps
tick around the clock.
7
ARE YOU FASHION?
“APPARENTLY THERE ARE MORE IMPORTANT THINGS IN LIFE THAN FASHION. YEA, RIGHT.”—FCUK
Written by NICOLE HERZOG
F
ashion. This word can mean so many exact trends that are featured in depart- ample subscribes and reads magazines to
different things to so many people ment store windows. To the LLF, fashion is focus strictly on top season’s trends along
that it’s subjective. The real ques- tailored to the individual, and that type of with articles on industry news, designers,
tion is what does it mean in relation to individuality can only be attained by pick- models, and fashion companies. Maga-
creativity, style, innovation, glamour, poise ing and choosing your own pieces. Even rec- zine choices are those at book stores, city
and perseverance? There is a difference reating old clothes into new and updated streets, and local happenings. Fashion
between those that are fashion and those looks or sifting though secondhand items to is about being educated in the industry,
that merely buy the latest trends and call find the perfect gem, is a second nature to even if one isn’t directly part of the indus-
themselves fashionable (and of course there the LLF. Therefore, the LLF girl is secure try. Meanwhile, the FW carelessly reads
are echelons within each category from with who she is and dresses for herself; top season trends without any research;
one extreme to another). What constitutes strutting effortlessly and cradling her in- merely waiting for the answers to reveal
a fashionable lifestyle? Well, if you think ner beauty. Appropriately determining the themselves. There is quite a difference be-
that FCUK is profanity, you still have a lot clothes that flatter her—no matter her size tween a person that likes to shop for the
to learn, however it doesn’t mean you are and demeanor—is priority. LLF’s would newest ‘it’ items and one that seeks out
deemed a “fashion wannabe” just yet. never wear items that accentuate flaws or fashion in the unlikeliest of places.
Living your life fashionably, as com- wear outfits that are visually uncomfort- The LLF girl thinks about fash-
pared to someone that is a wannabe, does able to look at. While the LLF girl dresses ion all day long! From the moment she
not automatically classify one as rich or for her personality and wears it with con- wakes up, to the moments she tries to fall
poor. Fashion is in the mind and cannot be fidence, the fashion wannabe (FW) dresses asleep with ideas running through her
classified monetarily. Those that live a life for other people to become what others head. Her room is interesting and reflects
of fashion, whom we will call LLF’s, are want them to be. who she is, by surrounding herself with
those that craftily mix and match their en- Living a fashionable life isn’t always what she likes, not worrying about oth-
sembles and do not thoughtlessly recreate by what one wears. An LLF girl for ex- ers opinions. Her confidence is so warm

people gravitate toward her at par-
ties, exhibits, openings, shows and
all the other fabulous places that she
thoroughly enjoys going to, whether
deemed cool or not. She doesn’t give
up when times get hard, she perse-
veres though thick and thin coming
out stronger than before.
With confidence in yourself and
your choices, this would make you
an LLF girl since it ultimately trans-
lates to your lifestyle. An FW merely
follows fashion by obvious rules and
lacks a vision of self. Though if we
were to critique that crazy outfit wore
out last night, it might still be aw-
ful. The rules of ‘style’ as compared
to ‘fashion’ are slightly different (but
that’s a whole other story!). So until
next time, exude your inner beauty
Papercut fans and be an LLF girl!
9
RIGHT HERE?

FASHION VICTIM
THE VERY TRUE CONFESSIONS OF A SHOPAHOLIC
Written by HAYLEY MAYBURY
A
lthough I’m already running late for work, I sit down at my
computer and quickly sign on to view my credit card balance.
Yes! I think to myself, there’s just enough to buy that dress I
wanted to wear out tonight.
Now most of you would agree that a fashion victim is someone who
has made a tragic outfit choice, or someone who is wearing something
from like four seasons ago, and I have to agree that this term would
definitely suit them. However, in my mind, a fashion victim is someone
who, at the end the month looks at their bank statement and realizes
they cannot pay the rent because of the $600 they spend last week on
that new Marc Jacobs bag! Okay, so one month isn’t so bad, right? You
can (and will) catch up! But then you see those new shoes you have been
absolutely dying for and—oops!—there goes another $200.
Have you ever seen the flick Confessions of a Shopaholic? Isla
Fisher plays a New York City fashionista plagued by her terrible
spending habits. If you’ve seen it, afterwards you probably wondered
who could actually live like that! Well, take out the gorgeous guy,
the creepy stalker debt collector, and the unrealistic Hollywood movie
ending and you will find me standing there! A real live girl gazing in
horror over my bed at all the shopping bags before me. At the same
time, however, I am giddily wondering what I should wear first. It’s
one hell of a bittersweet feeling.
So maybe it sounds like I’m overexaggerating. Well friends, I can
tell you that I most certainly am not! My bad habit got to the point
where I had to physically hand over my beloved plastic card to my
roommate to hide it from me! The sad thing is that eventually I found it
and then couldn’t get to the store quick enough! You may think I’m cra-
zy, but honestly is there anything better than the smell of new clothing,
or the feel of new shoes the first time you slip them on. I don’t think so!
Well, maybe an income that helps me to actually afford such luxuries
could help. Until then, however, I will continue to fall victim to fashion!
11
IN THE GARDEN OF
GET READY TO
PUT SOME SPRING IN YOUR STEP
WITH THE LATEST LOOKS IN BEAUTY.

Photographed by NICOLE BECHARD
Makeup GINA CATALDO / SEPHORA
Hair AMANDA ORTIZ / ROBERTS SALON
Model KATIE MULREY
13
EASE INTO THE SEASON WITH NEUTRAL HUES
As we begin to make the
transition into warmer weather,
use neutral colors—a la
Alexander Wang—to carry
you through summer.
On eyes: SMASHBOX eyeshadow

trio in “Pretty eyes”, SEPHORA
eyeliner in “Golden Sand”,
Makeup FOREVER eyeliner.
On lips: TARTE lip gloss in “Cliff”,

LAURA MERCIER lip gloss in “Flax”.
15
USE CORAL AS A FRESH ALTERNATIVE
We don’t care what anyone says,
coral is making a comeback.
During their spring couture
show, Dior had models flaunting
it on the runway, and we are
more than happy to jump on the
bandwagon.
On lips: DIOR Addict lip polish in

“Glow Expert”.

BRIGHTEN YOUR LOOK WITH PASTELS
Dior also brought us beautiful,
iridescent eyes. Our favorite was
the lavender, but we say mix it up
with blues and greens as well.
On eyes: DIOR iridescent eye

shadow in “Petal Shine”,
GIVENCHY Prisme Again! eye-
shadow quartet in “Zen Pastel”,
TOO FACED eyeshadow duo in
“Poodle Puff”
17
MAKE A STATEMENT WITH RED LIPS
Dolce & Gabbana took it up a
notch by including red hot lips as
part of their S/S 2010 collection.
We say go for it! Soften with muted
eyes for a more romantic look.
On lips: DIOR Addict lip color in

“Hollywood Rose”, LANCOME
clear gloss.

19
ADD DRAMA WITH COPPER EYES
For a more dramatic look, go for
coppery eyes. This darker neutral
tone will spice up your look
without going overboard.
On eyes: DIOR Iridescent

eyeshadow in “Earth Reflection”

RIGHT HERE?
Contact us at advertise@papercutmag.com for more information. 21
AFRICA, AZTECS, AND AVATAR
FASHION RETURNS TO ITS “NATURAL ROOTS”
Written by ERIN BERRY
T
he word “fashion” may not come to mind when one thinks is the fact that it exists despite the lack of the media and even
of the near-naked beings in James Cameron’s recent mirrors. So the question remains: who or what is this behavior
blockbuster hit Avatar, but like the blue-skinned Na’vi for? These people have a certain concern for artistic prowess
people, designers are gathering inspiration from the most ac- that makes one question why they feel the need to create such
cessible resource on Earth: Mother Nature. As technology ad- elaborate pieces when the result is only temporary. Silvester
vances and people are becoming more aware about its impact debates the purpose of this decoration, addressing reasons of
on the environment, an ecological backlash has emerged in art, practicality, such as using it for protection from the sun and
music, movies, and also fashion. The spring 2010 Valentino camouflage. He states: “Perhaps underlying it all is the spirit of
runway show in Paris featured the Avatar-inspired collection the hunter, accustomed to the art of camouflage, or the warrior
of Jean Paul Gaultier with an overall theme that marries na- merging with nature as he confronts his enemy, or perhaps it is
ture with the digital age. The earthy tones, plaited braids, and simply an unconscious homage to Mother Earth.”
turquoise jewelry reminiscent of the ancient Aztecs evokes a Humans are the only species that decorate—which brings
feeling of ritualistic decoration that is both fierce and ephem- the idea back to fashion—why does it exist? Humans have been
eral. Italian designer Marella Ferrera also adopted this tribal, adorning themselves since the beginning of time. Primitive
back-to-nature feel in her 2010 Spring Collection titled “Dee”. people decorated functional objects such as spears, tools, and
Her flowing fabrics, knotted ropes, and African jewelry are both clothing until the decoration itself became an entirely separate
exotic and organic. Although environmental awareness has be- entity that we now know as art. The current trend for high
come more of a fashion statement than a political one, there is fashion in 2010 embraces the primitive way with a twist that is
a quality of this style that transcends the “trendy-ness” of going surprisingly modern. The March issue of American Vogue fea-
green. It is more about returning to nature as a material, much tures the creations of Balenciaga, Givenchy, and the late Al-
like the clothing of our ancient ancestors. exander McQueen in an editorial spread entitled “The Warrior
This “style” is not limited to the fictional world of Pandora Way” (photographed by David Sims). The overall jungle setting
or the peoples of ancient history; it is fashion adopted from the and theme speaks of survival in a post-apocalyptic world. The
remote tribes existing presently in Africa, South America and idea is no longer about being environmentally conscious; it is
the Pacific Islands. Photojournalist Hans Silvester recognized about being melded with nature and the natural inclinations of
the strange inclinations of the people in Ethiopian tribes to dec- our species to hunt, gather, and create. Whether in the jungle or
orate their bodies using natural elements. The bright and bold on the runway, fashion is recognized as a trait that is uniquely
photos in his photographic compilation Natural Fashion; Tribal human. It is apparent, even in these tribes far removed from
Decoration from Africa are a colorful display of portraits of the the world of commercialism, that fashion, like art, is instinct.
nomadic people from Surmi and Mursi tribes. It may seem that
the temporary “clothing” made from leaves and twigs is a far
reach from the Western idea of fashion, but Silvester praises
their intricacy and aesthetics as if commenting on the latest
line: “...they are extremely talented: they can take any mate-
“ THE EARTHY TONES, PLAITED
BRAIDS, AND TURQUOISE JEWELRY
REMINISCENT OF THE ANCIENT
rial from the plant world—leaf, stem, flower, grass, root, and
instantly transform it into an accessory that has come straight
AZTECS EVOKE A FEELING OF
from a fantasy or fairy tale, without the slightest tinge of ab- RITUALISTIC DECORATION THAT IS
surdity.” What is so curious about the behavior of these tribes BOTH FIERCE AND EPHEMERAL.
”

23
RIGHT HERE?
S E T O UT ON
A C H I S SUE WE FOR TH
E
E A R C H
A SE T ALENT
T N E W
HOTTES HETHER IT’S
D. W
AROUN GING FASHION
EMER T ISTS, OR
ER S , A R
DESIGN S, YOU CAN BE
AN
MUSICI IT WILL BE THE
SURE G R EATEST.
E
A N D
H
LATEST
ON T
VE R G E
25
Designer Nicole Herzog loves the eclectic.
She uses this passion to create beautiful,
classic pieces with a twist. In addition, she
is all about the details. From vintage rhine-
stone broaches or buttons, to the rich tex-
tures of upholstery fabrics, you will fall in
love with the unique quality of each piece.
www.facebook.com/herzog

NICOLE
HERZO
ONE
OF A KIN
D VIN
TAGE
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AND B
CLAS ASED OU
SIC F T
ASHI OF THE
ON D L
ESIG ITTLE TO
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27
RA G S
D
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IN
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IN E
TO UNIT INITIATIV
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ED ICATE A GREEN
D ELP
W ILL H
ST 10%
LEA
SALE AT
R EVERY
FO

Naked Rags founder Nicole Lee Lordelo
illustrates that being fashionable and
green is possible. All Naked Rags clothing
is made with sustainable fabrics (such as
organic cotton) and for every sale, at least
10% will help to fund a green initiative or
non-profit social organization. Not only
that, the t-shirts are oh-so-soft with the
perfect fit and cool, contemporary artwork
to match. As their website claims, “we
know you’ll feel and look good [in] Naked!”
www.nakedrags.com
29
Boston-based designer Melina Laguerre
is inspired by art from the Victorian and
Colonial times. She loves the look and the
whimsical spirit that shows in both the
clothing and architecture of the time pe-
riods. Laguerre likes to take this inspira-
tion and mix them with a modern look.
In doing so, she uses mostly woven and
upholstery fabric as she feels they best
embody her ideas.

MELIN
LOVE
S TO
A LAGU
ERRE
INCO
RPOR
ATE W IN
OVEN SPIRED
AND BY V
UPH IC
OLST TORIAN A
ERY
FABR ND COLO
ICS. NIAL
TIME
PERI
ODS.
31
IRAN
UNDERGROUND
IRANIAN DESIGNERS ARE GOING UNDERCOVER TO
ESCAPE GOVERNMENT CONTROL.
Written by NOOSHA TALEBZADEH
C
an you imagine having to host a fashion show in the base-
ment of an apartment complex to keep it a secret? Due to
government restrictions, this is what many fashion design-
ers have resorted to in the city of Tehran, Iran’s capital. In Iran all
women have to abide by an Islamic dress code whenever they step
out into the public eye. The law requires women to have modest
clothing covering their hair, arms, legs and feet; practically every-
thing except their face. Supposedly, this is said to help protect the
women from attracting indecent attention from men.
“
So what does a government-approved runway show look like?
The models walk down the catwalk in an array of garments that
seem oversized as they hang away from the body, while the fabric
carefully lines their faces so not one strand of hair is showing. Some
designers have dared to break free from this law abiding runway
and have carefully planned shows outside of the government’s radar.
First, a basement is rented for one night where a document SOME
has to be signed that all the women will follow Islamic dress code. DESIGNERS
Found through networking, those interested are contacted with in- HAVE DARED
formation about the show via text message. Before they can attend, TO BREAK FREE
they must call another designated person who interrogates them
FROM THIS
about who they are and how they know about the show. Later a
car will drive up to each persons home giving them an invitation
LAW ABIDING
with directions to the location. All of this is done carefully and in RUNWAY AND
code. Once you enter the basement, you see a room filled with men HAVE CARE-
and women mingling together. The women take off their outer lay- FULLY PLANNED
ers and reveal fitted and low cut outfits as party music vibrates SHOWS OUT-
”
through the room. For a designer the costs can add up quick, from SIDE OF THE
renting the room to flying over international models. The garments GOVERNMENT’S
are walked down the runway in hopes of being sold that night to RADAR.
help cover all the expenses. Once the sale is done, the customer
will walk out with a one-of-a-kind garment that the designer may
never see again.
The risks for anyone involved are enormous. To be caught by
the police could easily mean jail for most, and even death, espe-
cially for the women. It’s hard to believe it’s all done for fashion, but
the more these people feel forced to conform, the more eager they
are to break free.
33
FASHION GOING GREEN
PASSING TREND OR SUSTAINABLE MOVEMENT?
Written by NORA E. S. GILLIGAN
G
eneral commentary on the fashion industry is dichoto- organic EDUN brand.4 Definitively provocative was the late (and
mous by nature. On the one hand, the industry is often ever-fabulous) Alexander McQueen’s nature-inspired Spring/
overlooked as a cold and superficial business, evolving Summer 2010 Paris collection, touching “on issues now charting
only as dictated by trends, determined season-to-season by the the future of fashion, including a growing social consciousness
invariable few “influentials” (read: the old guard of Vogue edi- of the environmental impact of consumption.”5 McQueen’s show
tors, and the new wave of bloggers). The less cynical see fash- opened with an LCD projection of a woman morphing into an
ion as a real-life outlet for artists and creative minds, reflecting ethereal underwater being, paired with show notes that read:
the culture, society, and times surrounding it. Whatever side “When Charles Darwin wrote The Origin of Species, no one
you take, the fact that society responds to fashion is inarguable, could have known that the ice cap would melt, that the waters
which makes the industry a wide-reaching platform through would rise and that life on earth would have to evolve in order
which to address pressing social issues, such as environmental to live beneath the sea once more or perish.”
awareness. No? Do I sense a lasting trend? Fashion as a reflection of the
Yes, thinks Gereon Pilz van der Grinten, Co-Director of times is by no means a new concept. From Coco Chanel and Paul
GREENaffairs and Founder of THEKEY.TO, an international Poiret’s contributions to simplify women’s fashion after the First
event at Berlin Fashion Week for green fashion, sustainable World War, literally and figuratively freeing feminists from their
lifestyle, and culture. “Fashion is one of the world’s leading in- girdles, to the recession-friendly mantras of “shop your closet,”
dustries. It influences everybody. That’s why we are convinced and “cheap and chic” boasted on the covers of all your favorite
that a new responsible approach in the entire fashion produc- monthlies, the industry is ever-adapting and evolving. The rel-
tion chain can play a pivotal role to save the planet,” states evant questions: does the new, green blood coursing through an
Mr. van der Grinten.1 Launched in July 2009, the main focus industry duly noted for its environmental footprint have staying
of THEKEY.TO is to showcase ecologically and socially respon- power? Is that enough to change the way shoppers shop, or the
sible fashion design. way designers design?
Van der Grinten’s lead influence with THEKEY.TO joins a Just as often as the fashion industry is highlighted for its
number of other fashionable calls to environmental awareness. positive environmental initiatives and inspiration, it is chas-
The Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation announced the addition tised for the vast amount of pollution and waste it creates. As
of a Sustainable Design Award category in 2008, in acknowl- Political Affairs online magazine reports:
edgement and encouragement of “emerging designers who are
According to the non-profit Earth Pledge, today some 8,000 synthetic
not only thinking about fashion design, but also how the whole chemicals are used throughout the world to turn raw materials into tex-
process affects the planet.”2 Popular fashion blogs are cover- tiles. Domestically, the U.S. Department of Agriculture reports that one-
ing the environment, and vice versa; Refinery 29’s recent Green quarter of all pesticides used nationwide go toward growing cotton, pri-
marily for the clothing industry. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Mile Guide to Eco-Friendly Shopping in NYC suggests a grow-
considers many domestic textile manufacturing facilities to be hazard-
ing number of both stylish and eco-savvy shops and boutiques.3 ous waste generators; and lax standards and enforcement in developing
Luxury conglomerates have been taking their stake in green countries, where the majority of textiles are produced, means that untold
credentials, such as LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s 2004 amounts of pollution are likely being deposited into local soils and wa-
terways in regions that can hardly stand further environmental insult.6
“carbon inventory,” to gauge its impact on greenhouse-gas emis-
sions, and May 2009 investment in Bono and wife Ali Hewson’s
PHOTO: JOSH HOWELL PHOTO COURTESY OF WWW.WEARABLECOLLECTIONS.COM
THIS PAGE: (L-R) H&M storefront; WEARABLE CLOTHING recycling organization van.
OPPOSITE: THEKEY.TO Wear Fair in Berlin, January 2010.

PHOTO: ZUZA ZAJCZENKO
For every line like Stella McCartney’s, a vegetarian who has rent with the times, a passing trend to keep shopper’s interested
made a career-long commitment to organic design, are several while the economy is down and eco-friendly is what’s hot.
“fast fashion” brands like Forever 21 and Topshop, which make “We launched a provocation and they picked it up,” says
their bank by cheap, disposable garment production. For every Frans Prins, van der Grinten’s partner in THEKEY.TO. “Be part
consignment shop and organization like Wearable Collections, of the Shift! This was how we invited the brands and many of
a non-profit that places recycling bins in designated buildings them felt the call to action. It’s a real challenge, but there’s no
throughout New York City for the collection of unwanted gar- future for business as usual. We’re shifting towards a greener
ments and clothing, is an H&M that shreds and throws away economy, and what we invent today will be the guidelines for
its unsold clothes.7 According to a 2008 study by the Council for tomorrow.”9 Is this too tall an order for the fashion industry and
Textile Recycling, Americans throw away more than 2.5 billion apparel market? Not necessarily. We have a long ways to go, for
pounds of clothing and textiles annually (more than 68 pounds sure, though.
per person per year), representing about five percent of the total
municipal solid waste. These are significant figures representing
a dirty, less-than-chic side of an otherwise glamorous industry.
Fashion’s role in heightening environmental consciousness
cannot be argued. The actual impact that green awards, bou-
tiques, partnerships, and fashion shows have on production and
consumer choice, though, is. Is the larger market truly invested
in changing the direction of fashion’s environmental impact, or
merely paying lip service to this great cause? Will consumers on
limited budgets, who still want to be stylish (i.e. us!), be willing
or able to spend more on a t-shirt made from organic cotton, or
tech-driven fabrics? Will we even want to replace the stretch ny-
lon of our Wolford leggings? “Statistically, green fashion occupies
a tiny sliver of the apparel market, [representing] less than 1
percent of industry sales. Among consumers, only 18 percent are
even aware that eco-fashion exists,” says Marshal Cohen, chief
industry analyst at market-research firm NDP Group.8 Time
will tell whether fashion actually cares about making a slow but
steady move toward sustainability. Or whether socially-respon-
sible marketing is a business strategy to keep the industry cur-
1
Castiglione, M. (14 December 2009). The Protagonists of the Shift. THEKEY.TO Press Release. Retrieved 19 February 2010. http://thekey.to/press/press-releases/14122009_en/.
2
Ecco Domani. (July 2008). Ecco Domani® Fashion Foundation Announces New Sustainable Design Category. Ecco Domani Press Release. Retrieved 20 March 2010.
http://www.eccodomani.com/about/press-releases/new-fashion-design-category.asp.
3
St. George, V. (17 February 2010). “Green Mile: Our Guide to Eco-Friendly Shopping in NYC.” Refinery 29. Retrieved 20 March 2010. http://www.refinery29.com/green-story-tk.php.
4
Dodes, R. and Schechner, S. (2 July 2009). “Luxury-Goods Makers Brandish Green Credentials.” The Wall Street Journal. Accessed 21 March 2010.
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB124650107013784081.html?mod=dist_smartbrief.
5
Moore, B. (7 October 2009). “Paris Fashion Week: Alexander McQueen embraces his role as fashion’s reigning provocateur.” Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 19 February 2010.
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/alltherage/2009/10/booth-moore-alexander-mcqueen-diary.html.
6
Earth Talk. (November 2009). “Fashion’s Deep Environmental Footprint.” Political Affairs online magazine. Retrieved 19 February 2010. http://www.politicalaffairs.net/article/view/9176/1/377/.
7
Dwyer, J. (5 January 2010). “A Clothing Clearance Where More Than Just The Prices Have Been Slashed.” The New York Times. Retrieved 19 February 2010.
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/06/nyregion/06about.html?partner=rss&emc=rss.
8
Kuchment, A. (14 April 2008). “Sense and Sensibility.” Newsweek. Retrieved 17 February 2010. http://www.newsweek.com/id/130627.
9
Castiglione, M. (14 December 2009). The Protagonists of the Shift. THEKEY.TO Press Release. Retrieved 14 February 2010. http://thekey.to/press/press-releases/14122009_en/.
35
TH
E
IR
NA RE
RA PR
ES
PA S
Z IBL
E

B
oston-based fashion designer Nara Paz not only creates stun-
ning clothing, she is irrepressible in her quest to become in-
ternationally recognized. An extremely personable woman, she
has had a remarkable rise to prominence; from growing up in a poor
village in Southern Brazil, to struggling to gain notoriety as a graphic
designer in her home country, to becoming a rising star here in Bos-
ton. She has pushed herself and her dreams against poverty, biases
against her heritage and gender, and the difficulties of establishing
oneself in a foreign country.
Paz claims that art and fashion has always been a part of her
life. As a young girl, her family couldn’t afford to buy her clothes. She
would find her escape spending afternoons looking through interna-
tional magazines such as Vogue at a local newsstand. She “was crazy
about fashion even then,” and afterwards would go home to draw and
cut out designs to make clothing for her paper dolls. Her real dream at
the time, however, was to become an artist. Her parents, however, dis-
approved; they believed she would find no money in such a career. Paz
considered attending architecture school, but her lack of mathemati-
cal skills ruled this out. Instead, she studied industrial and graphic
design, and with hard work and tenacity she established a successful
business in this field.
While traveling in New Zealand, Paz met the man who would
later become her husband. Together, they came to the United States
and Paz decided to study fashion design and production “to get U.S.
qualifications,” as she puts it. Today, the recent Lasell College gradu-
ate is definitely on her way to becoming the international high fash-
ion designer she aims to be. She placed first in the Lasell senior de-
signer fashion show, earning herself the Christy Proctor “Rising Star”
Award. Paz was also selected as one of the top five emerging designers
during Boston Fashion Week this past fall. She has been featured in
multiple other shows, and earned herself window displays and floor
shows at big-name stores such as Macy’s. Currently, she is focusing on
releasing a full commercial-ready Spring 2011 Collection.
In between her many meetings, fashion-related events, and fre-
quent trips to New York, Paz was able to sit down with us and give
us a one-on-one account of her amazing story. Following her tale, pho-
tographer Conor Doherty presents three very different spreads from
Paz’s current line “Pieces of Me”, a Renaissance-inspired collection
that focuses on the colors, shapes, and forms prevalent of that era.
Interview by HAYLEY MAYBURY

Papercut Magazine: What inspires you as a fashion I’ve been in the commercial design business for over fifteen years
designer? and my husband who is my business partner in my design studio
Nara Paz: Art, colors, shapes, forms and textures, and the artistic is an international business development executive, so I know—we
interpretation of these elements. I think fashion designers need to know—what it takes to get noticed. I attended Lasell to get a de-
be artists as they strive to create wearable clothing. What excites gree in fashion design and production because we both felt it was
me is when I see people looking fabulous and confident when they essential to have U.S. qualifications. We decided as far back as my
wear my clothing. The pleasure they show is so rewarding. I get sophomore semester that the clothing I had to design and make
that now when models tell me they love my clothes. for my courses at Lasell should be commercial ready, so we started
the process of getting noticed from the get go.
PM: What do you feel that a city like Boston (where high
fashion isn’t necessarily prevalent) can offer up-and-coming PM: What about Fashion Shows?
designers? NP: My first fashion show in America was the Lasell senior fash-
NP: I think high fashion is a small market niche anywhere. It’s ion show attended by over 2,000 people. It was part of my graduat-
more prominent where you have a lot of celebrities and celebrity ing year and everything I designed for that show was aimed at get-
events. I believe there is a high fashion market here in Boston but ting noticed and established commercially not only here in Boston,
it’s not as out there as places like New York or LA. My hope is to but elsewhere. Our fashion show presentations are professional-
gain national and eventually international recognition, so I have based and worthy of being put on anywhere in the world because
to show my clothing outside of Boston. I have already begun that that’s how we prepared and presented them. We also did two other
process by showing in Australia, New Zealand, Singapore and shows in Boston Fashion Week in fall 2009. One was for Fashion
India because of connections in those places. My advice to up-and- Exposé which was planned to take place in a tent on the Pier at
coming designers is to know who you are. Know who you want to the Naval Dockyards in Charlestown. We specially trained and
be like and focus on this. For me, I would like to be a modern day prepared twelve models for twelve different looks, but because
Chanel or Oscar de la Renta. I draw inspiration from the hard of severe flooding and dangerous conditions we couldn’t present.
work they went through to succeed in this business. Instead, with no more than two hours notice we transported the
entire entourage to the Bokx 109 Restaurant at the Indigo Hotel
PM: But what about Boston? You are still here in Boston. in West Newton and presented to a packed house there. I was also
NP: That’s right, people may not see Boston as a fashion center, chosen by Fashion Group International as one of five emerging
but they certainly know the city and respect it, nationally and in- designers to watch last year and did a presentation at Macy’s.
ternationally. They know it as an educational center and a center
for innovation and creativity; a city that attracts the best thinkers PM: What did you see as the main benefits of these shows?
in the world. It is a city to be proud of. Even though I aim to es- NP: Apart from getting a certain amount of general media and
tablish a presence in other places, it’s not to say I can’t get myself fashion community exposure, the primary purpose of prepar-
going on that path from here in Boston. ing and doing the fashion shows was to obtain photographs and
videos of the garments as advertising and promotional collateral.
PM: What are the struggles you face being an emerging These are costly and time-consuming events but they did serve the
designer and what do you do to overcome them? purpose of “kick-starting” my exposure. Such events were worth-
NP: Well, my goal is to become a respected high end fashion while and provided valuable collateral. Participation in future
designer nationally and internationally. I see this as a long and events like these will be more selective. More than likely, they will
challenging process. It will take time and perseverance to build a coincide with the launch of my next full and commercially avail-
reputation and profile, but I’m used to that. I’ve had to sacrifice able collection. For most of this year, I want to do less of the big
and persevere a lot in the past to get to this point today. A poor girl events and more of the networking and collaborative situations of
from a poor country village! Someone who couldn’t speak a word of connecting with people and organizations in the industry. There is
English eight years ago! And along the way having to endure heri- a lot to learn and share. I feel privileged, for example, to be asked
tage and gender biases! These challenges have made me stronger to appear in the inaugural release of your magazine. Thank you!
and more determined.
PM: How do social networking sites help play a role in self-
PM: Anything specific? promotion?
NP: I think the biggest struggle I’m facing as an emerging de- NP: My sense is that Facebook, LinkedIn, Twitter, and other so-
signer in Boston right now is the lack of experienced and skilled cial networks that are specific to a particular field, do play a role in
local resources to help me commercialize my somewhat different this era of instant communication and “in-the-now”. These venues
kind of designs. It is so hard to find people who have “walked the provide a means of reaching out to a small collective of people but
walk”—seamstresses, pattern makers, sample makers, fabric in my mind right now they tend to be more like extended family.
suppliers, manufacturers, trimmings and accessories suppliers. Although the opportunity does exist to self promote, the predomi-
These are all resources that have dwindled away because of a lack nant activities are instant messaging, socializing, and/or informa-
of work in the region. What resources that still exist are limited. tional. There is an element of ‘getting to know you’ which can be
They are probably okay for someone who is content on serving labeled as self-promotion, but I don’t see this as replacing other
a local market, but for me, it is a struggle. I have seen what is forms of promotion such as e-marketing or the more traditional
available elsewhere in the U.S. and overseas in places like Brazil, celebrity and event marketing for the fashion industry. Social
Europe, and Asia. I have to turn to these places to help me with networking may be more of a qualifying medium rather than a de-
what I want done. I am traveling to New York regularly to engage fining medium. In other words it’s probably a necessary venue in
resources and services that are more capable and competitive. which to have a presence but not sufficient in itself. It’s important
However, even though I will go where it is necessary to get my to be seen as having a Facebook presence but you have to do other
designs produced, I still pride myself as a Boston designer. things to become known and accepted in your field. There will be
a need in the near future to develop a business portal on Facebook
PM: What type of events do you participate in to get your for Nara Paz Design Internationale that will promote me as its de-
clothing noticed by the public? signer. This is to come when I have my full commercial collection
NP: Although I’m a recent Lasell College graduate, I have to say available. Right now my Facebook presence is personal.

I THINK THE BIGGEST STRUGGLE I’M FACING AS AN EMERGING DESIGNER
IN BOSTON RIGHT NOW IS THE LACK OF EXPERIENCED AND SKILLED LOCAL
RESOURCES. IT IS SO HARD TO FIND PEOPLE WHO HAVE “WALKED THE WALK”—
SEAMSTRESSES, PATTERN MAKERS, SAMPLE MAKERS, FABRIC SUPPLIERS,
MANUFACTURERS, ACCESSORIES SUPPLIERS.
39
INTO
THE
WOODS
Photographed by CONOR DOHERTY
Hair/Makeup MICHELLE MCGRATH / TEAM ARTISTS, INC.
Models KACEY EMMET and LEAH MILCH / MAGGIE INC.
41
43
45
47
48
MAY/JUNE 2010
BIG TROUBLE
www.papercutmag.com
in LITTLE CHINATOWN
Hair/Makeup MARIOLGA \ TEAM ARTISTS, INC.
Model MARIE WU \ MAGGIE INC.
49
51
53
when
darkness
FALLS.
Hair/Makeup MARIOLGA \ TEAM ARTISTS, INC.
Model LEAH MILCH \ MAGGIE INC.

55
57
59
RIGHT HERE?

Papercut Magazine May/June 2010 Issue

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Papercut

08 ARE YOU FASHION?

22 AFRICA, AZTECS, AND AVATAR

34 FASHION GOING GREEN

Photographed by NICOLE BECHARD

2 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO

First off, I must say how excited I am to finally be shar-

4 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

Written by BRITTNEE CANN

6 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

New York really celebrates the art of

8 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

10 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

12 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

On eyes: SMASHBOX eyeshadow

On lips: TARTE lip gloss in “Cliff”,

On lips: DIOR Addict lip polish in

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On eyes: DIOR iridescent eye

On lips: DIOR Addict lip color in

18 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

On eyes: DIOR Iridescent

20 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

22 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

26 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

28 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

30 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

PHOTO: JOSH HOWELL PHOTO COURTESY OF WWW.WEARABLECOLLECTIONS.COM

34 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

36 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

Interview by HAYLEY MAYBURY

38 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

54 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

60 MAY/JUNE 2010 www.papercutmag.com

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