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Woodsmith
MAGAZINE
MATERIALS LIST
231/2"h
Overall Dimensions:
A Top/Bottom (2)
B Left End (1)
C Right End (1)
D Left Divider (1)
E Right Divider (1)
F Drawer Runners (16)
G Separators (2)
H Shelf Cleats (4)
I Back Panel (1)
J Shelves (2)
K Sm. Drwr. Fronts (4)
L Lrg. Drwr. Fronts (4)
M Sm. Drwr. Sides (8)
N Lrg. Drwr. Sides (8)
O Sm. Drwr. Backs (4)
P Lrg. Drwr. Backs (4)
Q Drawer Bottoms (8)
R Catcher Fr/Back (2)
S Catcher Sides (2)
T Catcher Runners (2)
U Catcher Cleats (2)
V Door Stiles (2)
W Door Rails (2)
X Door Panel (1)
Y Caster Pads (4)
Plans
NOW
CUTTING DIAGRAM
241/4"d
x 40"w x
ply. x 233/4 - 39
3/4" ply. x 233/4 - 20
3/4" ply. x 233/4 - 20
3/4" ply. x 231/2 - 1713/16
3/4" ply. x 231/2 - 1713/16
1/2 x 3/4 - 13
3/4" ply. x 121/2 - 175/16
13/16 x 1 - 175/16
1/4" Mas. x 1713/16 - 39
3/4" ply. x 73/4 - 121/2
13/16 x 31/4 - 117/8
13/16 x 51/4 - 117/8
1/2 x 31/4 - 133/4
1/2 x 51/4 - 133/4
1/2 x 23/4 - 111/4
1/2 x 43/4 - 111/4
1/4 Mas. x 111/4 - 13
13/16 x 2 - 103/8
13/16 x 2 - 181/8
1/4" Mas. x 11/4 - 185/8
13/16 x 11/4 - 21
1/2 x 11/4 - 173/16
1/2 x 11/4 - 107/8
1/8" peg. x 107/8 - 153/16
3/4" ply. x 4 - 5
3/4"
!/2 x 3!/2 - 72
M
M
!/2 x 3!/2 - 72
M
M
!/2 x 5!/2 - 72
N
!#/16 x 3!/2 - 72
K
K
!#/16 x 5!/2 - 72
!#/16 x 5!/2 - 72
S
R
U
H
!/2 x 5!/2 - 72
N
P
NOTE: CUT !/4-THICK TRIM
STRIPS FROM WASTE
!/2 x 5!/2 - 72
P
!/2 x 5!/2 - 48
F
ALSO REQUIRES
!/8 PEGBOARD 12 x 24
V
F
#/4 PLYWOOD 48 x 96
!/4 MASONITE 48 x 48
G
D
G
Q
J
Y
page 1
Q
T
Plans
NOW
FIGURE 1
!/4 x !/4
BACK RABBET
(SEE FIG. 4)
23#/4
A
TOP/BOTTOM
!/4 x #/4
DIVIDER DADO
(SEE FIG. 4)
FRONT
EDGE
12!/4
12!/4
39
FIGURE 2
1#/16
ENDS
FIGURE 4
!/4 x !/4
BACK
RABBET
(SEE FIG. 4)
3
6%/16
9%/8
BACK
RABBET
DETAIL
!/4
20
!/4
14!%/16
!/4 x #/4
BOTTOM
RABBET
(SEE FIG. 4)
FRONT
EDGE
!/4 x #/4
DADO
(SEE FIG. 4)
FIGURE 3
14
BOTTOM
RABBET
DETAIL
23#/4
1%/16
#/4
DIVIDERS
!/4
4%/8
7!%/16
!/4 x #/4
DADO
(SEE FIG. 4)
13!/4
TYPICAL
DADO/
GROOVE
DETAIL
17!#/16
#/4
!/4
14
FRONT
EDGE
23!/2
FIGURE 5
A
TOP
B
LEFT
END
D
LEFT
DIVIDER
E
RIGHT
DIVIDER
C
RIGHT
END
A
BOTTOM
page 2
FIGURE 6
13
DETAIL
!/2
F
DRAWER
RUNNER
DRAWER RUNNERS
!/16
CHAMFER
#/4
14
NOTE:
NO RUNNER
IN TOP DADO
FIGURE 7
NOTE:
ALIGN DRAWER RUNNER
FLUSH WITH FRONT EDGE
BOTTOM
RABBET
FRONT
EDGE
CUT FROM
4/4 STOCK
#/4 PLYWOOD
TOP VIEW
2
H
SHELF
SHELF
SUPPORT
COMPARTCLEATS
MENT
(FOUR NEEDED)
3!/2
DRAWER
COMPARTMENT
3!/2
RIGHT
DIVIDER
G
SEPARATORS
(TWO NEEDED)
17%/16
#/16 DIA.
COUNTERSUNK
SHANK HOLES
FOR MOUNTING
CLEATS
3!/2
3!/2
#/4
12!/2
FIGURE 8
BACK
RABBET
FRONT
EDGE
LEFT
DIVIDER
SHELF
SUPPORT
CLEATS
SEPARATOR
#/4
1
A
TOP
C
RIGHT
END
D
LEFT
DIVIDER
G
SEPARATOR
H
SHELF
SUPPORT
CLEATS
#8 x 1!/2 Fh
WOODSCREW
FIGURE 9
A
BOTTOM
BACK VIEW
FIGURE 10
END
H
SHELF
SUPPORT
CLEAT
POSITION
CLEAT FLUSH
WITH INSIDE
EDGE OF
RABBETS
#8 x 1!/2 Fh
WOODSCREW
Plans
E
RIGHT
DIVIDER
B
LEFT END
NOW
SCREW
DETAIL
CLEAT
COUNTERBORE
FOR !/2 DIA.
PLUG
BOTTOM
page 3
FIGURE 11
NOW
SHELF
SUPPORT
HOLE
!/8
FINISHED
OPENING
LINE
ROUTER DETAIL
!/8
SABRE SAW
CUT LINE
FLUSH
TRIM
BIT
SEPARATOR
SHELF
SUPPORT
HOLE
BALL BEARING
PILOT
BOTTOM
FIGURE 12
!/4 THICK
TRIM STRIP
FILLERS
(SEE FIG. 14)
SHELF
J
CUT TO FIT
FROM #/4
PLYWOOD
BACK
PANEL
I
TRIM
STRIP
SHELF
4d
FINISHING
NAIL
BACK VIEW
!/4 THICK
TRIM STRIPS
FIGURE 13
RIP
FENCE
CUT TRIM
STRIPS FROM
4/4 STOCK
!/4
RIP
FENCE
RIP TO WIDTH
TO MATCH
THICKNESS
OF PLYWOOD
PIN STYLE
SHELF SUPPORT
FIGURE 15
BACK
EDGE
CUT OUT
SAWDUST
OPENING
FRONT
EDGE
RIGHT
DIVIDER
1!/2
FIGURE 14
!/8
ROUNDOVER
2!/2
page 4
10
LEFT
DIVIDER
!/4
THICK
TRIM
STRIPS
GLUE AND
NAIL TRIM
STRIPS ON
WITH
1 BRADS
13
1!/2
FILLERS CUT
TO FIT FROM
SCRAP
NOTE:
SET BRADS
AND FILL HOLES
Plans
SEPARATOR
DRILL
#/8 DIA.
CORNER
HOLES
SAWDUST OPENING
Theres one more step to complete the basic
cabinet - cutting the sawdust opening in
the top. This opening allows the dust and
chips to collect in a plastic trash bag mounted inside the cabinet.
Cut a 10" x 13" opening 21/2" from the
back edge of the top and centered between
the dividers (D and E), see Fig. 15. (Note:
This opening will fit both the 10" Sears and
Delta/Rockwell saws. For other saws,
check the opening on the saw and cut a corresponding opening in the cabinet.)
BACK
PANEL
I
TOP VIEW
FIGURE 16
THE DRAWERS
#/16
JOINT DETAIL
DRAWER CONSTRUCTION
11!/4
#/8 %/8
!/2 STOCK
SIDE
BACK
BACK
SIDE
Q
BOTTOM
!/4 MASONITE
!/2
FRONT
11&/8
!/2
STOCK
13#/4
DRAWER
RUNNER
GROOVE
SMALL DRAWER
HEIGHT = 3!/4
LARGE DRAWER
HEIGHT = 5!/4
#8 x 1 Fh
WOODSCREW
4/4 STOCK
!/2
FRONT
FIGURE 18
FIGURE 17
1
DRAWER
RUNNER
!#/16
3!/4
!/16 GAPS
!/4
!/4
!/4 ROUNDOVER
AFTER ASSEMBLY
SMALL DRAWER
!/4
3!/4
#/16
1
5!/4
!#/16
LARGE DRAWER
!/4
5!/4
1%/8 TYPICAL
!/4 ROUNDOVER
AFTER ASSEMBLY
!/16 GAPS
!/4
#/16
FIGURE 19
FIGURE 20
SIDE
R
BACK
FRONT
2
10#/8
18!/8
R
FRONT
CORNER
DETAIL
4/4
STOCK
FIGURE 21
#8 x 1!/2 Fh
WOODSCREW
FIGURE 22
!/2
4/4
STOCK
S
SIDE
CHIP CATCHER
CONSTRUCTION
!/4
#8 x 1 Fh
WOODSCREW
T
CHIP
CATCHER
RUNNER
!/4 THICK x 1!/4 WIDE
MASONITE
FIGURE 23
ALIGN WITH
INSIDE EDGE
Plans
NOW
CHIP
CATCHER
SIDE
ROUTER
TABLE
FENCE
CHIP CATCHER
CHIP
CATCHER
ON EDGE
!/4
!/2 CORE
BOX BIT
18%/8
#8 x 1!/2 Fh
WOOD
SCREW
FRONT
page 5
1!/4
MASONITE
RUNNER
SIDE
FIGURE 24
FIGURE 25
CHIP
CATCHER
CLEATS
CROSS SECTION
#8 x 1!/2 Fh
WOODSCREW
TOP
%/16
U
CLEAT
CLEAT
DETAIL
CHAMFER
BUNGEE
CORD
1!/4
TRASH
BAG
!#/16
21
!/8 GROOVE,
!/4 DEEP
CENTERED ON
THICKNESS
OF STOCK
DOOR
After I was sure the chip catcher would
slide easily into the opening, I began work
on the door that covers the chip catcher
opening. The door is made with a pegboard
panel that provides additional space to hang
tools and saw blades.
STILES AND RAILS. I built the door using
stub tenon and groove joinery (see
Woodsmith No. 29 for more on making this
joint). First, cut the stiles (V) from 1/2" stock
to a width of 11/4" and 1/8" less in length than
the height of the opening, see Fig. 26. Then
measure the width of the opening and cut
the rails (W) to length, subtracting the
width of both stiles and a 1/16" gap on both
sides of the door, and adding an allowance
for the 1/4"-long stub tenons on each end.
(In my case, this made the rails 107/8" long.)
GROOVES AND TENONS. Now cut 1/8"-wide
grooves (to accept the 1/8" pegboard panel)
on the inside edge of each stile and rail.
Then cut stub tenons on the ends of the
rails to match the grooves.
PEGBOARD PANEL. After the tenons are
cut, dry assemble the frame, and cut the
pegboard panel (X) to size to fit in the
grooves, see Fig. 26. Then glue the frame
together with the panel in the grooves.
HINGE MORTISES. Once the door is glued
together, cut 2"-long hinge mortises in the
left stile, see Fig. 26. (Note: Mortise to a
depth slightly less than the thickness of
the hinge knuckle.) Then mount the hinges
in the mortises, and mount the door to the
inside of the opening so that the face sets
back 11/4" from the front edge of the cabinet, see Fig. 27.
HANDLE AND CATCH. To complete the door
add a handle (pull), and mount a magnetic
catch to the divider and catch plate on the
back of the door, see Fig. 27.
CASTER PADS. To hold casters to the bottom of the cabinet, I glued caster pads (Y)
on each of the corners. Then I screwed the
casters to the pads, see Fig. 28.
FINISHING. I finished the cabinet with
three coats of Deft Clear Wood Finish, and
then screwed the saw to the top with lag
screws and Masonite spacers, see Fig. 29.
Plans
NOW
FIGURE 26
10&/8
10#/8
W RAIL
1!/4
2
RAIL
5
DRILL HOLES
TO MATCH
HANDLE
X
DOOR PANEL
!/8 PEGBOARD
V
STILE
15#/16
17#/8
V
10&/8
1!/4
STILE
MORTISE
SLIGHTLY
LESS THAN
THICKNESS
OF HINGE
KNUCKLE
W
1!/4
FIGURE 27
CHIP
CATCHER
CLEAT
TOP VIEW
MAGNETIC
CATCH
DOOR
CATCH PLATE
LEFT
DIVIDER
2 BUTT
HINGE
2!/4
RIGHT
DIVIDER
CENTER DOOR
HANDLE ON STILE
1!/4
TRIM STRIP
FIGURE 28
!/4 x 1!/2
LAG SCREW
FIGURE 29
!/4 x 1
LAG SCREW
WASHER
WASHER
TABLE SAW
MOUNTING
FLANGE
!/4 x 1
SQUARE
MASONITE
SPACER
!/2
!/2
4
5
page 6
CASTER
Y PAD
#/4 PLYWOOD
CHIP
CATCHER
CLEAT
Outfeed Table
After building the table saw cabinet, I
decided to add an outfeed table. I wanted
this table to be permanently attached to
the saw (not a separate unit that has to be
set up each time you use it - like a roller
stand).
I also wanted to be able to fold the outfeed table down so the saw could be rolled
against a wall. This design does just that.
(And it can be built to fit any saw, with or
without the cabinet.)
ARMS
The outfeed table is supported by two arms
(A) that are attached to the extension wings
of the table saw, see Fig. 1. Begin by cutting these arms from 4/4 stock (13/16" actual thickness) to a width of 31/2" and a length
of 40".
Note: This length assumes the table saw
top is 27" deep - thats typical for most 10"
Sears and Delta/Rockwell saws - so the
arms project 13" behind the saw.
LAG SCREW SLOT. The outfeed table is
held to the arms and pivots to the down
position on two lag screws. These screws
slide in 1/4"-wide slots routed into the arms.
To make these slots, first drill two 1/4"-dia.
end holes centered on the width of each
arm and 81/2" apart, see Fig. 1. Now clean
out the area between the holes with a 1/4"
straight bit on the router table (or with a
hand-held router and edge guide). Rout in
a series of passes increasing the depth until
the bit cuts through the workpiece.
NOTCH FOR RAIL. After the slot is routed,
cut a notch in the right arm to fit around
the saws rear rip fence rail, see Fig. 1. (I
cut a 2"-deep by 21/4"-wide notch. This fits
around the rails on most saws.)
TRIM OFF CORNERS. Next, to break the
sharp corners, I trimmed a 45 angle off
the bottom corners of the arms and routed a 1/8" chamfer on the outside edges, see
Bolt Detail in Fig. 1.
ATTACHING THE ARMS. The arms are bolted to the outside edges of the saw extension wings (or the table itself if it doesnt
have extensions), see Bolt Detail in Fig. 1.
(Note: If the table top or extensions dont
have holes in the edges, drill two 1/4"-dia.
holes near each end.)
Then to locate the bolt holes in the arms,
clamp the arms to the edge of the table
with the top edge of the arm aligned flush
with the table saw top. Reach under the
table and mark through the bolt holes.
Once the holes are marked, remove the
arms from the saw, and drill a 5/16"-dia.
(oversized) hole at each mark. Then bolt
Plans
NOW
40
2!/4
1#/4
3!/2
1#/4
8!/2
RIP FENCE
RAIL
NOTE:
NOTCH ONLY ONE ARM
FOR REAR RIP FENCE RAIL
!/4
WIDE
SLOT
BOLT DETAIL
ALIGN ARM FLUSH WITH
TOP OF TABLE SAW
!/4 x 1!/2
BOLT
PLYWOOD TOP EQUALS !/16 LESS
THAN DISTANCE BETWEEN ARMS
page 7
1!/4
%/16
DIA.
HOLE
!/8
CHAMFER
Now clamp these pieces under the plywood top flush with the edges, and drill
counterbored screw holes, see Fig. 3.
STRETCHERS. After the top is screwed
down to the sides, measure the distance
between the sides. In my case this was
385/16". Then cut two stretchers (D) to this
length.
Now screw one stretcher under the far
end of the table and another 101/2" from the
near end, see Fig. 2. Finally, drill and screw
through the side frames into the ends of
the stretchers and plug all the screw holes,
see Fig. 3.
SUPPORT BLOCKS. To add a little more
strength to the pivot point on the arms, I
glued a support block (E) to the front (open)
end of each arm and rounded over the bottom to a 1/2" radius, see Detail in Fig. 2.
FIGURE 2
CHAMFER OUTSIDE
EDGES !/8
24
SCREW
HOLE
PLUGS
NOTCH IS CUT SO
TABLE SAW GUARD
CAN BE TIPPED TO
A FULL 45
Plans
NOW
#/4
#8 x 1!/4
WOODSCREWS
DETAIL
1!/2
SUPPORT
BLOCK
E
E
FIGURE 4
#/8
10!/2
#/16 DEEP
1!/2
!/2
RADIUS
1!/2
NOTE: COUNTERBORE
SCREW HOLES #/16 DEEP
FIGURE 5
CROSS SECTION
CUT GLIDE
RAILS FROM
4/4 STOCK
TABLE TOP
AND ARM
SHOULD
BE FLUSH
2!/4
!/2
#8 x 1!/4
WOODSCREW
F
%/8
12
!/2
1!/4
2!/4
GLIDE
RAIL
FIGURE 6
FIGURE 7
CROSS SECTION
ASSEMBLY
The table is connected to the arms with lag
screws used as pivot pins. To locate them,
clamp the table in place so the front edge
is aligned with the notch in the right arm,
see Fig. 6. Then drill through the front end
of the slot into the frame side in two steps.
First, use a 1/4" brad point bit in the 1/4"
slot to drill in just enough to make a centering hole, see Step 1 in Fig. 7. Then drill
a pilot hole with a 3/16" bit, see Step 2.
Finally, screw in a 1/4" x 2" lag screw with
a washer (but not too tight), see Step 3.
STOP PIN. The last step is to prevent the
outfeed table from sliding out of position.
Clamp the table into place with the lag
screw tight against the front end of the
slot. Then drill a 1/4"-dia. hole up from the
bottom through the glide rail and 3/8" into
each of the frame sides, see Fig. 8.
Then lift up the table and glue a 1/2"-long
dowel into the hole in the frame side, see
Detail in Fig. 8.
Now the table is ready to use. To put it
into the down position, lift up slightly
(enough to lift the pin out of the hole), slide
the table forward, and pivot it down.
#/8
STRETCHER
D
GLIDE RAILS
To support the table, I added glide rails
(F) to the arms (A). To determine the width
of these glide rails, clamp the table between
the arms so the top is flush with the top
edge of the arms. Then measure the distance from the bottom of the frame side
(C) to the bottom of the arm, see Fig. 4.
Now cut the glide rails to a length of 12" and
mount them to the arms, see Fig. 5.
GUARD NOTCH. You will have to cut out a
notch in the front of the table for the safety guard. The notch has to be wide enough
so the guard can tip to a full 45. For a
Sears saw this means a notch about 21/4"
wide and 31/2" deep, see Fig. 2.
CHAMFER EDGES. After the notch is cut,
rout a 1/8" chamfer around all the outside
edges of the table top and frame.
FIGURE 3
CROSS SECTION
3
NOTE:
DONT
OVERTIGHTEN
LAG SCREWS
!/4 x 2
LAG SCREW
CLAMP TABLE
TO GLIDE RAIL
CROSS SECTION
STOP PIN DETAIL
LIFT UP
STOP PIN
PULL OUT
1
STOP PIN
(!/4 DOWEL)
!/ 2
!/4
HOLE
CENTERED
ON GLIDE
RAIL
!/8
STOP PIN
HOLE
page 8
STOP PIN
HOLE
SLIGHTLY
CHAMFER
BOTTOM