GARDENING ON THE EDG E
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008
NEWSLETTER OF THE MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
Number 128 — February / March 2008
The Hotline: The Master Gardener “SWAT Team” - Cynthia Jordan, MG9 4
The class of 2008 assembled for their orientation in early
January. The events of the day unfolded like a perfect rose,
thanks to the great organizational skills of Carri Wagner, Joan
Halperin, Mary Edmund, and the help of the MG Advisory
Board. There was excitement in the air and the small chitchat
of gardeners making new friends. And then we told them
about (drum roll…) The Hotline!!
It has been 10 years since I last worked the hotline, but I still recommend it.
Until you take questions from struggling gardeners, you would not think
such problems were possible. Many times you will not be sure, though you
think you know the answer, and have to look it up. Using reference sources
is one of the best trainings for any gardener. Just searching the sources
exposes you to more solutions for problems you were not aware of. Since I
am now 20 miles from the hotline desk, the drive time and expense is
prohibitive for me, but I salute those MGs from the Monterey / Carmel
area who made the drive dozens if not hundreds of times. Al Derrick MG95
Ask an experienced MG about working the Hotline and the
reaction is instant: the MG either breaks into a cold sweat or a
compost-eating grin.
Announce to a new MG class that they have to work the
Hotline and terror is the initial reaction. True to form, the
faces of the newest MG class reflected their thoughts: “You’re
going to make me answer gardening questions over the phone
or in-person … by myself?!”.
I enjoy the hotline. It's good answering gardening questions — particularly
when I don't know the answer and have to research and learn for myself.
Our library is well stocked and we also have the Internet as our resource so
finding answers is easy and rewarding. I know that we are appreciated
The Hotline: the Master Gardener ‘SWAT Team’
Giant White Squill
Smart Gardening Faire: Early Progress
Epolls
CA Statewide Conference Update
Al’s Corner: A Fond Farewell / The Era of Al
CA Natives for Fall and Winter
Recovery Pruning on Trees After Wind Damage
1
A WARM
WELCOME
TO THE
CLASS
OF
2008
because the callers are always so grateful for our help and the staff in the
office is also very thankful of our presence and is always there if we have
any questions. What a great place to share our knowledge!
Paul McCollum MG04
A short history on the birth of the MG Hotline
In the mid ‘70’s, farm advisors working for WA State
University were finding it difficult to keep up with the phone
calls from home gardeners. Their job description called for
them to act as agricultural advisors to the local farming
community but they could not ignore the overwhelming
number of phone calls and gardening inquiries from the home
gardener. After cutting through the red tape associated with
launching any new brilliant idea, the Master Gardener
Program was born - and along with it, the Hotline. The
Hotline is a main artery in the Master Gardener Program and
through it we achieve our mandate to disseminate research-
based information to home gardeners.
(www.mastergardener.wsu.edu/summary/pdf/mgearlyhistory.pdf)
The caller wanted to know about this moth. (I don't remember its name.).
My husband and I had seen this moth at our home only once when we first
moved in. It's humming bird-sized and showed up at dusk around an
outdoor light. (At least I thought it was the same moth the caller asked
about.) He went on to tell me more than I would ever find in our literature
about the moth. It was interesting. Melita Israel MG95
The MG Hotline - an Environmental/Gardening Weathervane
Master Gardeners working on our Hotline are making a difference in our
community and environment. They provide the daily, tangible extension of
research-backed information on gardening and home pest control. They
Quail Hollow Ranch Project
Book Review: Plants and Landscapes for
Summer-Dry Climates of the S. F. Bay Region
Winter Tool Maintenance
Advanced Training Opps
Relevant Internet Miscellany
Confessions of a Reluctant Gardener: Slick!
What’s Blooming in Your Garden?
2 February - March 2008
make a difference by helping reduce pesticides in our environment, the
waste of our precious water resources, the pollution of soil and water with
the overuse of fertilizers – just to name a few specifics. I know of very few
other volunteer activities where a couple of donated hours can have such a
profound impact. Steve Tjosvold, Farm Advisor
I’m going out on a limb by saying that a passionate, educated,
REAL gardener understands the connection between home
gardening practices and a healthy global environment. Take
one gardening year, track it from seeds in the soil to plant
growth to harvest, and the weave of sun/soil/water becomes
very apparent. Interrupt that weave at any point with polluted
sun, poisoned soil, or lack of water due to drought, and the
gardener sees the results immediately. It is the questions from
the home gardener via the Hotline that alert us to problems
that the research experts must eventually solve.
I am sitting on the Hotline and it is winter and no one is calling. I have been
on the Hotline 3 times a month for over a year now and I find it to be fun,
rewarding and educational, when I get calls. I cried over a lady's apple tree
that her husband planted 25 years ago. Her beloved German Shepherd,
who has now gone to the big dog park in the sky, loved to lay under it and
some thoughtless deck builders dug too close to its roots. I was yucked out
all summer with the Oak Worm epidemic (as many as 20 calls a day).
People having weddings in their backyards and freaking out (do I have to
give everyone umbrellas so the worms don't land on them during the
ceremony?). And of course lots of people sighting the LBAM, though they
really didn't know what it looked like. But it seems when we do have calls
— spring-summer-fall — there is always at least one very interesting one
where I will call the county Entomologist or the Ag Adviser for that area
and in asking questions I learn as well as help. Mimi Rahal MG06
Hotline time brings out the explorer, the evangelist, the
pioneer in us. Remember the glassy-winged sharp shooter
pest? MGs on the Hotline were key educators about this
potentially catastrophic situation. You are at the front lines,
fielding questions about horticultural processes and problems.
Armed with one of the most powerful research tools in the
world, the horticultural database of the University of
California, you can disseminate information that has yet to
become mainstream. You become a member of the Hotline
SWAT Team, leading the attack on horticultural problems
arising from ground zero – the home garden. This is where you
make a difference in the greater community called Planet Earth
by providing earth-friendly gardening solutions.
The Hotline as Post-Grad Work
The thing I enjoyed most about working the hotline was that I felt I could
be of help to someone. Many times, callers were at a point of desperation
(one had purchased oak firewood and discovered a resinous canker, was it
Sudden Oak Death? What should he do??) and I was able to put their minds
at ease. I also liked the fact that, by researching a caller’s problems, I was
able to learn so much in return (in order for avocados to fruit, one must
plant both a male and a female tree to ensure cross pollination, for
Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
example). I’d have to say that the hotline was a win/win situation.
Debra Van Bruggen MG04
With every class that graduates, a new Hotline SWAT Team
emerges. The majority of an MG class will complete their
required Hotline volunteer hours. But they don’t feel
compelled to return time and time again. That’s too bad
because the real-life education comes from working the
Hotline. For three hours on a Monday, Wednesday, or a
Friday, you don the white coat of the research lab and dig for
answers. It is very fulfilling.
The MGs we call the “regulars” truly love working the Hotline.
We have had MGs who worked the Hotline on a weekly basis
for years at a time. This was their calling. They had no interest
in helping with the MG Tour or the Youth Garden or attending
advanced training classes. According to them, the hands-on
experience of the Hotline was the best advanced-training they
could ever get.
What I liked best about working the hotline comes in three parts: (1)
working the hotline with positive-minded senior master gardeners who
know a lot and have much experience handling hotline calls (for example,
working with Paul McCollum); (2) working with another junior master
gardener who is learning so we can learn together; and (3) being
able/allowed to make note of the caller’s question, say I will ask someone
or look it up, and call the caller back with an answer. The hotline caller gets
their question answered in the end. I learn something by asking questions
and looking things up. Paul Milladin MG06
Humor on the Hotline
A man once asked me how to kill the vine his neighbor was growing on a
hurricane fence between their gardens! Obviously I was not able to help
him. Another woman insisted that we send someone out to her Carmel
Valley property to help select plants and design her garden (I wasn't doing
design at that time - would love to hear from her again!)
Claudia Boulton MG99
It was May, 1994, and I was nearing my graduation. And I was
alone in the Santa Clara County MG Hotline Office. Spring
was in the air; lots of great greenery sprouting every where. A
gardener came in with some plant material with a pest
problem. Actually, she came in twice. The first time she had a
six-foot limb with smaller branches and leaves attached. Then
she went back to her truck (I asked how she got such a large
‘cutting’ in her car) and brought in the smaller specimen –
perhaps only four-feet long.
Proudly, she brought in “one of each”: a branch that had the
problem (the six-footer) and one that didn’t. “Could I help her
diagnose the problem and offer a solution?”, she asked. She
explained that she had called the Hotline and asked for help.
But because she didn’t know the name of the tree/shrub and
couldn’t find living proof of the suspected pest, she was
advised to “bring in a specimen” to the MG Hotline office.
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008 3

The plant material was from cuttings she took in January!

Then winter set in and she didn’t want to haul the cuttings to
the MG office in the rain. So they lay near the compost pile
since January, while all signs of disease and/or pest damage
composted away. Her mood changed from hopefulness that I Tree in winter
could help - to frustration when I couldn’t - to resignation Photo by
when I finally got her to understand that many plants and pest Leora
body parts look alike once death and decay has set in. Worthington

But we had a nice chat about spring erupting and how colorful
the bulbs were that year. And she said she would return with
some “live specimens” shortly. Thankfully, my required
Hotline duty was over on that spring day in May. Oh, did I
mention that I am not a “Hotline regular”?
Well, I do remember one caller that had me stumped with their diverse and
unusual call. This caller first asked what palm tree grows best here in
Santa Cruz. Then proceeded to add requirements for this tree. It has to be
fast growing and produce dates within the first several years. I was then
told by the caller, “You know the type of palm tree I am talking about -
right?” I said no and was told that they grow all over the place in Los
Angeles. The best part about working the hotline is the diversity of
questions and callers. Tom Davis MG01
Hotline Horrors
The caller had a weed she wanted me to identify. I told her that if she informed of the temperatures and times required to kill pathogens, and who
brought it in, I would be happy to look at it and try to identify it for her. I are willing to take 100% responsibility for the process and product." The
asked her to describe it for me. She said, "It is a common weed and that as a biggest risk is that the feces might not make it to the hottest and safest part
Master Gardener you should know what it is." She hung up on me. Pretty of the pile, which means the waste will break down but the disease
funny--huh? Pat Davis MG06 organisms will still be alive. For additional information on the topic check
out the book called The Humanure Handbook. If you're not an experienced
The Hotline is not without its horror stories. Anyone who has
worked with the public knows what I am talking about. hot pile composter and you still want to compost human and animal waste
Impatient, rude, grumpy gardeners do exist. But we must put at home you might want to look into "composting toilets."
on our most professional and patient demeanor and press on, Darcy Horton, MG06
helping as best we can. For the most part, Hotline callers and Martye Lumpkin, Hotline Heroine
visitors are wonderful people, thankful to have MGs to help
them with their gardening problems. From time to time you will receive an email from Martye
Lumpkin, MG01. Martye has the challenge of keeping the
Sometimes, the inquiring home gardener may share more than Hotline staffed. She may describe this task as akin to herding
you ever wanted to know – or research. Read on: gophers. But she is very dedicated, persevering — and
Tom Davis and I received an unusual question while working the hotline relentless in filling those Hotline time slots. Make her job
last month: "I know I'm not supposed to put human and animal waste into easier by responding post haste with boundless enthusiasm the
next time she emails us. Or be pro-active and contact her right
my compost heap but I don't know why. Everything breaks down, right?"
now for some of those hot spots on the Hotline:
Hmmmm...excellent question. We found lots of information on the web. The martyl@prodigy.net
following was from one of the better sites (vegweb.com/composting/what- Happy Hotline-ing! Ï
not.shtmlvegweb.com/composting/what-not.shtml): "Human feces can
contain disease organisms that will make people very sick. Composting
human feces safely requires that the compost pile reach high (thermophilic)
When do Abutilon’s bloom?
temperatures over a period of time. It isn't necessarily that difficult to
All year-round on the Central
reach these temperatures in a home compost pile, but the potential health Coast. Check out the ‘What’s
costs of improper composting are high. Composting of human feces should Blooming’ list on page 20 for
not be attempted, except by experienced 'hot pile' composters who are well- more winter-bloomers.
4 February - March 2008
Giant White Squill — Paul McCollum, MG04
A few years ago I was visiting with a Master Gardener who
lived in San Jose. As I was looking around his garden, I spotted
several large round bulbs laying on top of the soil. They ranged
in size from about 2” in diameter up to over 6”. As I looked
closer, I noticed that they were all attached to something even
larger buried just beneath the soil line. I asked my friend what
they were and he may have told me, but as I recall he didn’t.
He did, however, invite me to take one home. I picked one that
was about 5” round and took it home when I left. That was
sometime in June and I didn’t get around to planting it until
several weeks later. Since I didn’t know what it was or what it
would do, I just kept my eye on it and it just laid there doing
nothing. Then in August I noticed a bump coming from the
top center of the bulb. As the weeks passed, it seemed to grow
inches every day until it was well over 4.5 feet tall. Then over
a period of weeks little white flowers with yellow stamens
began to open from the lower part of the stock to its tip. Very
interesting. I still didn’t know what it was nor did anyone else
I asked. It was about this time that I remembered some of the
great education I had received in my Master Gardener class
and started researching this plant on my own. I wrote down
all I did know and started looking. What I discovered was
that I was growing a “Giant White Squill” or Urginea maritime,
also know as Sea Squill or Sea Onion from the Lilliaceae
family.
Further reading taught me that the
bulb can grow to be as large as a
person’s head but growth this size
takes up to 15 years. The plant’s
name comes from the root that is
able to penetrate through hard
subsoil to reach water. It’s really
an amazing plant in that it is also
used to heal neurological pains, skin problems, wounds, and
eye infections. In addition, materials in the plant are used to
treat asthma, bronchitis and heart disease. One other use of
the bulb is as poison for mice.
Squill grows well in the desert areas of Southern California
and Arizona and it seems to grow well in our area too. It is not
recommended to plant in containers because the roots are
large and grow deep. It also prefers not to be moved once
established. Squill should be planted outdoors where the
drainage is good — it should not be planted in an area where
water puddles for 2-5 hours after a hard rain. If your soil has
poor drainage, the addition of peat moss, compost, ground
bark, or decomposed manure can be used to raise the level and
help with drainage. Squill can be grown in full sun or under
deciduous trees. In the winter, when many plants are bare and
the sun can get through, the green leaves of the squill really
add to the landscape.
Planting squill is easy. Dig a large hole and plant the bulbs so
that the tops are even with the soil sur-face. Space them 18” to
Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
24” apart to allow for larger bulb growth. Water the area well
and after they get started, water only during the active
growing season, which for our area is November-May. The fall
and winter rains have been all the water my plants have ever
needed. The leaves will grow to a mature height of 1’ to 3’ and
then start to decline around May. The plant will then remain
dormant until about August when the flower stalk(s) will
begin to appear and the cycle repeats itself. Flower stalks can
be used for interesting arrangements and cutting them will
not hurt the plant. Cut off the stalks when you see the green
leaves start to appear. So, there you have it - it’s
Mediterranean, requires little water, is green in the winter,
and blooms in late summer!
Squill has a
racemose
inflorescence;
each scentless,
stellate flower has 3
sepals and 3 petals
If you are interested in growing this unique and somewhat
uncommon plant, a good place to purchase the bulbs is “Easy
to Grow Bulbs” (http://www.easytogrowbulbs.com). They are
located in Southern California and offer a 15% discount for
Master Gardeners: use promotion code CAMG when ordering.
This discount applies to everything they have, even stuff on
sale! If you call them speak with Kathleen - she is a very nice
lady! Ï
Far left:
A good-sized onion
cuddling with a
relatively small
squill bulb.
Left:
You can just see the
bulb from which the
tall spike grows.
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008 5

Smart Gardening Faire: Early Progress — Tom Karwin, MG99

The Faire’s core
planning group has
started making quiet
progress in shaping
this annual event.
Simon Stapleton
MG06 and Karen
Cozza MG08 sent
direct mail to last
year’s exhibitors, in-
viting them to
participate again in
2008. We’ve already started receiving enthusiastic sign-ups. As
part of our continuing effort to build on experience, Simon
enclosed a diagram of the Faire’s layout and announced that
early applicants would get first choice of booth location. We’re
hoping to encourage prompt responses and keep exhibitors
happy.
We are also interested in adding new exhibitors who would
support the Faire’s focus on sustainable gardening and
landscaping. If you have suggestions, please send the contact
info to any Faire planner. The 2007 Faire’s exhibitors are listed
on smartgardening.org.
Sheryl McEwan (’03) with help from Cynthia Jordan (’94) has
begun recruiting speakers for the Faire. All of our previous
speakers contacted to date have offered to return, and new
well-qualified folks have contacted us with offers to speak. It’s
too early to announce our line-up of speakers but we are
confident that the Faire will satisfy its educational purpose in
fine style.
We plan to use the Scotts Valley Community Center as a
speaker’s venue, in addition to the Scotts Valley Senior Center
and the small meeting room in the Parks & Recreation
building. These indoor spaces work better acoustically than
the speaker’s tent.
Betsy Shea (’04) has begun planning our publicity campaign.
We want to expand our effort to promote interest in the Faire,
both within the Monterey Bay area and in the communities of
the south San Francisco Bay area. This year, we will increase
our cost-efficient uses of email and smartgardening.org to
publicize the Faire.
We’re also preparing our fundraising push, looking for grants
and sponsorships. We have been very pleased with the support
provided by local water districts and local garden-related
businesses.
The water districts have found the Faire to be a good vehicle
for encouraging public awareness of the need to use water
wisely in the garden and landscape. The districts’ priorities for
public education align well with the MBMG’s mission to
inform home gardeners about research-based sustainable
gardening practices.
There are other details involved in planning the Faire. You can
follow our progress in Gardening on the Edge and smartgar-
dening.org (which we’re in the process of updating). Mark
Faire Day June 21 st on your calendar, and let any of the Faire
planners know if you’d like to “play Faire!” Ï

Top right: Squill foliage emerging in September

Bottom right: Foliage in October
Bottom left: January
Photos by Paul McCollum
6 February - March 2008
Epolls — compiled by Sharon Ettinger, MG00
What is the most important thing you have
learned about gardening this past year?
Robin Sanders, MG95
After a heavy frost or freeze, don't cut back plants too soon.
After last year's cold weather, I thought I had lost a lot of
plants - but ended up with only about 3 that didn't come
back. Some of them showed no new growth until June.
Cynthia Jordan, MG94
I have learned that gardens have a mind of their own. They also
possess the will to survive. Plants - the living component of
the garden - will grow no matter what you do or don't do to/for
them. And there are plants that have stronger will power than
others... survival of the fittest is not exactly what I'm referring
to. It's more like.... the weaker plant deciding that rather
than go up against the stronger plants for water/light/nut-
rients, the weaker plant will fall to the back of the pack and
wait till the gardener comes around again and evens out the
playing field.
For example...this year was the first year I've gardened since
2004. For three years I totally ignored my garden, which is
planted very densely. Except for the MGs coming through a
couple of times for cuttings, I did nothing in the garden. In
2007 I knew I had to "get involved" and bring order back to the
chaos in my garden. So I hacked and whacked away at the
bullies (wisteria, climbing roses, euphorbias) and made way
for the shy plants waiting patiently to be rediscovered and
saved (oak leave hydrangeas, abutilons, ferns). I did a major
pruning in Jan/Feb 2007 and watched as the same plants took
over or retreated through the year. I walked through the
garden today, near the end of 2007. I tried to starve out some
plants throughout the year by not feeding/watering them.
Other plants I tried to ween away by not protecting them from
frosts or extreme heat. They all survived... waiting for an
opportunity to show me who rules the roost.
Al Derrick, MG95
When replacing your bedding plants from season to season, do
not delay removing seasonal plantings because they still look
good. To do so can cause the next planting to get a late start
when the soil has cooled and they never reach their potential.
Debra Van Bruggen, MG06
The greatest thing I have learned this year has to do with
proper bed preparation. I took a class at Love Apple Farm on
how to prepare a bed for, and plant, a winter garden. I added
humic acid, oyster shell powder, crab meal, potash and
homemade compost to my raised beds. "Oyster shell powder is
a good source of lime, and it also adds calcium to the soil,
which is an important micronutrient”, says Cynthia Sandberg
of Love Apple Farm. I now have a beautiful and thriving
vegetable bed full of leafy greens that are practically pest-free.
Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
The proportions Cynthia Sandberg suggests using are as
follows:
For 100 sq. ft. of soil add
10 lbs crabmeal. It provides nitrogen and phosphorus
2 cups humic acid (I purchased humic acid at the Feed
Store)
5 lbs. potash or other source of potassium. I used Sul po
mag 0-0-20, which comes in a box.
If you are planting cabbage, brocolli or cauliflower, add lime to
elevate the pH to 7. Oyster shells are good and add calcium
also. Add 4 lbs. And always, add plenty of compost and worm
castings! For the spring garden, this mix is still great.
I purchased all these items in bulk at Mountain Feed & Farm
Supply in Ben Lomond 336-8876, all their bulk products are
organic and their pricing is very reasonable. They also sell
several weights of floating row covers by the foot. They are
incredibly helpful and knowledgeable.
Don't forget to check out Cynthia’s new blog at
www.growbetterveggies.com.
Stuart Walzer, MG96
The most important thing I learned in the past year is to curb
my enthusiasm in the garden. I have a strong impulse to make
cuttings of everything. Most fail and those that don't I give
away. The process is time consuming, distracting and
diminishes thoughtful garden planning.
In the same vein, I tend to put in too many plants, which
results in overcrowding. Plants which start out small soon
block out the plants behind them. Open space creates and
enhances garden structure and is healthier for existing plants.
How about organizing a session in which a few master
gardeners would help me dig out seedlings and full grown
plants for raffles. I have excess echium, bamboo, various
grasses, fuschias and more. I need help in digging them out,
potting them up and carting them off. Any takers?
Bonnie Pond , MG00
Frost and low water levels were the biggest problems in my
garden last year. I am still learning how to deal with the frost
and better ways to irrigate my garden.
Tom Karwin, MG99
Thanks to two recent books, I gained a little insight into the
importance of microbial life in garden soil. The books
are Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil
Food Web by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis (Timber Press,
2006), and Life in the Soil: A Guide for Naturalists and
Gardeners, by James Nardi (University of Chicago Press,
2007). Once we look below the surface of the soil, there's a lot
to learn!
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008 7

Barbara Gordon, MG98

1)My MG Tour "helpers" and I learned how to install drip
irrigation on a hillside. Very exciting!!! And wonderful! What a
sense of accomplishment. Finding all the right parts and
learning how they work, what they actually do and how to
install them. Tammy was the real helper on this part of getting
ready for the tour. Claude helped in one section too.
2) I learned some things about creating a diverse hedge for the
front of my house. Previously I'd had a monoculture of all
Italian Buckthorns and it became a disaster. One got sick and
in a few years they all developed the problem, looked terrible
and I ripped them all out. Diversity rocks. Monoculture sucks.
Not good for us, not good for the earth and even plants don't
like it.
3) I learned the value and fun of working together on a big
project. My second time doing the tour but what a great team I
had this year. Made some new friends too!!

In the early 90's, as a new gardener and a type-A personality,

Hummingbird at the Japanese Garden in San Mateo’s Central Park
(pictured on right). Anna’s hummingbirds that do not migrate are
called ’residents.’ They rely on our feeders all winter.
Photos by Leora Worthington
What was your biggest gardening disaster ?
Darcy Horton, MG06
I had heard that you can't transplant a tomato after it has been
in the ground a while, so I knew I was gardening on the edge.
But I had a passion vine that was overtaking my Early Girl
tomato, so it had to be moved. It immediately looked quite
pitiful and wilted even after deep watering. The next day part
of the plant recovered, then wilted later in the day. I let this
sad dance play out for two days before I mercifully moved the
tomato to my green waste bin.
Cynthia Jordan, MG94
There is a grove of eucalyptus trees at the foot of my
driveway. They were put there by people who build homes but
know zip about gardening. Unless you have a 100-
acre arboretum for a yard, eucalyptus trees do not belong in
home gardens - or near any structures.
I approached gardening as I approached life..."I shall overcome."
Against all odds of anything growing under those eucalyptus
trees, I spent 4 years and hundreds of dollars buying/plan-
ting/pulling out dead plants from under those trees. I
composted, changed the soil under the trees, and watered till I
owned stock in the water company. In the end, the only thing
that grew was the eucalyptus trees!! Now that's a gardening
disaster!
Then in 1994 I discovered the UCSC Arboretum. It was filled
with eucalyptus trees that had plants growing under and
around them. A walk through the entire arboretum and I had a
long list of new plants to try under my grove of trees. It taught
me that gardening disasters could be avoided by taking the
time to research your problem - and finding a master gardener
for some advice!
Melita Israel, MG95
My biggest disaster this year was two does and three fawns
that enjoyed my garden's menu. Now the garden is enclosed by
a big fence with an electric gate. It would have been cheaper to
buy my fruit and veggies.
Tom Karwin, MG99
My disaster for 2007 was having a friend with a chain saw cut
down a row of several overgrown trees (Pittosporum tenuifolium).
It was a mixed outcome: I got the job done for minimal cost,
but the trees fell on plants I intend to keep! They'll grow back
in time, but the temporary devastation shows that there's no
free lunch. Ï
8 February - March 2008
MG 2008 Statewide Conference Update
Mark you calendars! The MG Statewide Conference will take
place Tuesday September 23 rd through Friday September 26 th
at the Asilomar Conference Grounds in Pacific Grove. MBMG
is the host organization. We hope you will consider attending
the conference this year and volunteering in some capacity so
that our members can exchange ideas with other MGs in the
state. We extend a special invitation to the Class of 2008 to
attend or volunteer. It will be a great opportunity to learn
more about the state Master Gardener Program and other
regional organizations.
Core Committee Planning Meeting Report
On January 7, Alicia Molina and Simon Stapleton attended the
Core Committee Planning meeting in Alameda. Most of the
guest speakers for the event have been identified and are
committed to giving excellent presentations to the conference
attendees.
The subjects cover a wide range of topics including
Leadership Skills, Feeding Your Neighborhood, Landscape
Sustainability, Special Gardening Topics, Science Based
Horticulture, and Pest Management. A special session on
School Gardening Programs has been added. There will be
several speakers on each subject who should provide a wealth
of information. All of these sessions will be held on
Thursday. Tuesday will include pre -conference tours and
workshops. Wednesday’s program calls for keynote speakers
and a welcome reception, as well as other activities.
Among the activities at the conference will be a Marketplace
where each county will have a “booth” to sell gardening-
related wares. A percentage of the proceeds of the sales at the
booth will be returned to each county so this is a fund-raising
opportunity. We would welcome any suggestions you may
have for items to sell at our booth. The Youth Garden
birdhouses and compost sifters are possible ideas. Alicia has
also researched bird feeders, bandanas and hanging flower
bags, with our logo, as possible candidates. Please contact
Alicia or Simon with any other suggestions or ideas.
There will also be a photo exhibit open to all Master
Gardeners. If you have some great photos you wish to share
contact Alicia or Simon. You may also sell your photos at the
exhibit but details are still being finalized. Artwork may also
be considered but we will have to verify this with the
committee.
Search for Excellence Award
This is a very prestigious monetary award. There will be
different categories for entries. Currently being considered
Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
— Simon Stapleton, MG06
from the MBMG include the MBMG website, our online
GOTE, the Smart Gardening Faire, Youth Garden, and the
Water Wise Garden Contest & Tour. We think we excel in
these areas and they should be viable entries. Any other ideas
or entries are welcomed and encouraged.
Volunteer Opportunities
We expect to need 50 to 75 volunteers for the duration of the
conference. While some of these volunteers will be attendees
from other counties, there will be many short-term (4 to 6
hour) opportunities for our local members. Volunteers will
not be required to pay conference fees if they choose to not
attend any sessions. If you have audio visual skills and are
comfortable troubleshooting computers, you may want to
volunteer for the break-out sessions. You will be able to listen
in on all the sessions held in the room where you are
volunteering at no charge. A great opportunity! These spots
will go fast so, let us know if you are interested.
We are looking for a volunteer coordinator to manage our
booth. If you are interested in this position, please let us know
ASAP.
The remaining volunteer assignments have not been fully
identified but there should be a variety of opportunities for our
members. (And there may be some extra perks, but keep that
to yourself.) The only cost to short-time volunteers would be
parking on the Asilomar grounds at $10 a day. However, there
is ample parking off-site and if you have a CA State Parks Pass,
it would be valid on the grounds.
Conference Fees
If you choose to attend the conference and not use the
overnight facilities, the cost would be approximately $153 plus
a $50 per day meal and facility charge. Much of cost represents
mandatory fees charged by Asilomar over which we have no
control. Fortunately for us, the travel time to the conference is
minimal, so overnight accommodations may not be
necessary. The Conference Committee is trying very hard to
keep the conference costs to a minimum; however, there are
charges mandated by Asilomar that must be included. We
receive no funding for this conference from UCCE. Any
proceeds left over from this conference are used and included
in the budget for the next conference.
Simon and Alicia will provide conference updates in the next
issue of GOTE. If you have any questions or suggestions or
would like to get involved as a volunteer, please contact Alicia
Molina at nmnalicia@sbcglobal.net or Simon Stapleton at
sistapleto@comcast.net. Ï
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008 9

Al’s Corner: A Fond Farewell

A message from Al Derrick:
For me to have been allowed to be a regular contributor to
the newsletter for all these years, has been a privilege and a
pleasure. Changes in ones life do require a change in
priorities and this is the time for me to make those changes.
The newsletter will be just as interesting without "Al's
Corner." I am grateful to have been allowed to express my
thoughts without any restriction in the newsletter. Al Ï

This is just one of many great photos from the Al’s Corner
archive: “Here in the Napa/Sonoma area the Crape Myrtle
(Lagerstroemia) is one of the most common,and most beautiful
street trees. They are seldom grown in Monterey/Santa Cruz areas
because of their mildew problem. There is now available a mildew
resistant series recognized by being named after Indian tribes. In
much of the area where MBMGs garden I believe these could be
grown without problem. Most people only know of Crape Myrtles
by their flowers, so I thought you might enjoy the fall colors. Some
of the mildew resistant Crape Myrtles are Acoma, Catawba,
Cherokee, Comanche, Hopi, Natchez, Okmulgee, Pecos, Seminole,
Sioux, Tuskegee, Wichita, Zuni.” More: http://groups.ucanr.org/
mbmg/MBMG_News/

The Era of Al — Cynthia Jordan, MG94

It has been an honor and a life-changing experience to have
met and gardened with Al Derrick for the last 13 years. Having
just heard that he has “retired” from writing his article for our
newsletter, it feels like an era has passed – an era that featured
Al as a cornerstone of our MG program.
We stand in awe of Al’s energy. I watch him work, teach,
garden, move with grace and intent, drive long distances to
teach MG classes – and pray to the garden gods that I can do
half of what he does when I get to where he is. His patience is
renowned, his kindness never-ending.

Al was a member of the first graduating class of MGs in the
MBMG program. It was very evident from the first class
(Steve’s really difficult Hort 101 class!) that Al was anything
but a plain ol’ home gardener. He knew and understood the
essence of each subject matter we were taught. In the early
days of the program, we did not have the advantage of the great
MG Handbook now used in the classes. We had handouts and
our own notes. Al already knew the topics inside and out and
we all fought to work with him on the open final. Ohh… and I
won’t embarrass Al and his lovely wife Gen by recounting that
every woman in the class of 1995 wanted to marry Al!
It was the very next year after his MG graduation that “Al the
MG student” became “Al the MG instructor.” He approached
the classes he taught with the energy and excitement of a first-
year teacher, getting all dewy-eyed if a student asked an
intelligent question or made an intellectual comment. I
remember him sincerely congratulating a student who made an
astute observation during a class. As a teacher, he excels.
Everyone “gets it” when Al takes his pruning shears and trims a
tree. Under Al’s tutelage, we understood that propagation was
an art – and he is a master artist, in the garden and in the
classroom.
Al’s gardening roots run deep. He’s the perfect tap root!
Sending down roots, sending up nourishment in the form of
great garden bounty and commitment to education – his and
ours. Anyone who ever visited his homes in Watsonville or in
Calistoga understands his love of all things living in the garden,
be they plants, or critters, or humans.
The thing about Al is that he long ago made the connection
between ‘the good earth’ and being a good human being. He
has a sincere kindness and caring that makes you want to learn
what he knows beyond the textbooks – about being a
wonderful person. Perhaps that’s why we love having him
teach us - and why we will miss his words of wisdom in the
newsletter.
Al Derrick is a master gardener’s master gardener. So much so
that years ago we began a tradition of voting for and presenting
to an MG the “Al Derrick Master Gardener Award.” The cream
of the crop, the top of the compost heap, the perfect rose bud,
the pope of propagation, the top gun of greenhouses … the
magic in our friendship garden. That’s our Al. Ï
10 February - March 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS

California Natives for Fall and Winter — Sue Tarjan, MG06

By the end of summer, many California native plants will have Quercus agrifolia (coast live oak): common throughout the
shriveled into dried up sticks to survive until the rains come. coastal hills, it is a fast growing oak with spreading branches
To anchor your design and keep your native garden looking (70 feet). It makes a fine specimen tree in a large yard and can
good during the potentially drab period between late summer be planted with an understory of drought-tolerant natives
and mid-winter, intersperse some of the following hardy trees like monkey flowers, California roses, gooseberries, and
and shrubs among your annual wildflowers, bunch grasses, and bunchgrasses.
other natives more likely to go dormant. Keep in mind that the
best time to plant natives is during the fall, preferably just after Quercus wislizenii (interior live oak): although it can grow quite
the first rains. tall (to 75 feet), it frequently develops into a dense, broad
shrub with glossy, spiny green leaves similar to the coast live
Trees oak. Both live oaks grow well in our area without summer
water.
Aesculus californica (California buckeye): small deciduous tree
(20–40 feet)—beautiful in bloom but still handsome in winter Shrubs
with its naked grey twisting limbs. If the bareness bothers you,
hang bird treats or decorations from its branches until it leafs Arctostaphylos species (manzanitas): evergreen groundcovers,
out again. It’s easy to grow, tolerant of sun or light shade and shrubs, and small trees prized for their dark-red bark and
moist or dry soils. Like many natives, it goes dormant during contrasting foliage. Interesting in any season, flowers appear in
drought periods but leafs out early in the season. mid-winter followed by berries that resemble tiny apples. They
like at least a half-day of sun, good drainage, and no summer
Arbutus menziesii (madrone): water after the first year; they require minimal care once
broadleaf evergreen (40 established.
feet) with smooth reddish-
orange bark and graceful Baccharis pilularis (coyote brush): aromatic evergreen
trunk. This gorgeous tree groundcover or shrub. It grows pretty much anywhere,
puts on a great show of including the seaside, and the deer leave it alone! Shear it to
bright red-orange berries in shape in fall or winter after its blooms dry up.
fall and winter. Madrone, a
Carpenteria californica (bush anemone): rare and beloved
slow grower, thrives in sun
evergreen shrub that produces show-stopper flowers in late
or light shade and prefers
spring into summer. It appreciates some summer water, so you
loam and plenty of winter
can plant it among your thirstier plants. It tolerates pruning
water but is summer
and light shade.
drought-tolerant.
Calocedrus decurens (incense Ceanothus species (California lilacs): like manzanitas, a wide
cedar): a large, reddish- range of evergreen varieties from groundcovers to trees. They
brown barked, pyramidal fix nitrogen, take no summer water after the first year, have
evergreen (75–80 feet), very lovely flowers ranging from white to deep indigo, and tolerate
fragrant in warm summer pruning. They are very attractive to wildlife, but deer rarely
California buckeye, browse the spiny and small leafed forms.
weather. This is a hardy, Aesculus californica
adaptable tree but prefers Photo from Wikipedia Eriogonum species (California buckwheats): provides interest
full sun and likes a little year-round with bluish-green to grayish foliage that reddens as
summer water until well it dies and flowers that dry nicely. Species range in size from
established.
small to quite large. My favorite is giganteum (St. Catherine’s
Lithocarpus densiflorus (tanbark oak): common broadleaf lace), native to the Channel Islands. Once established, it is
evergreen (variable 10–40 feet depending upon sun) with an quite drought tolerant.
attractive, dense, conical form. A wide variety of wildlife love it
for its acorns and its welcoming shelter. It reaches its full Fremontodendron species (flannel bush): evergreen prostrate to
stature in sun to light shade but is quite shade tolerant. tree forms with scalloped, fuzzy leaves not attractive to deer
except when young. It produces magnificent masses of golden
Pinus contorta ssp. contorta (shore pine): long lived coastal pine flowers in early spring. Makes a great specimen plant—no
with short, thick trunk and broad crown (20–30 feet). It summer water once established. It pairs well with Ceanothus
works well in small gardens near the sea and tolerates regular species.
pruning.
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î
Close-up of snowdrop bush, Styrax officinalis
Dwarf Styrax
Blooming Ceanothus
Photos above by Sue Tarjan
February - March 2008 11
Garrya elliptica (silk tassel bush): large shrub or small tree (10
feet) with large, leathery leaves. This shrub is splendid during
the holiday season when it develops decorative foot-long white
catkins. It is drought tolerant but doesn’t mind some summer
water and light shade.
Heteromeles arbutifolia (Toyon): evergreen shrub or small tree
(10–25 feet). It features large clumps of brilliant red berries in
the fall and winter that contrast beautifully with its thick,
leathery dark green leaves. It is drought tolerant but will take
water and grows in sun to light shade.
Juniperus communis (common juniper): low (1 foot), slow growing
juniper with attractive blue-green needles; makes a great
groundcover for steep banks. It takes sun to light shade and is
drought tolerant.
Lavatera assurgentifolia (mission mallow): a Channel Island
evergreen with striking maple shaped leaves and showy
flowers that bloom forever. It grows fast and takes drought,
most soils, and salt, but deer and gophers love it, so be advised.
I’d grow it in a large container or raised bed inside a deer
fence—it’s worth it!
Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon grape): slow growing evergreen
shrub (5 feet). It looks like a little holly and features dark blue
berries in late fall. It likes a little summer water and grows well
in sun to light shade. It would do just fine in a small garden.
Myrica californica (Pacific wax myrtle): very tough, fast growing
evergreen shrub (20 feet). It makes a great background screen
or hedge; tolerant of sun or part shade and doesn’t mind wet or
dry conditions.
Styrax officinalis (snowdrop bush): stunning deciduous shrub
with gorgeous clusters of large white berries that cling
tenaciously into late winter—very decorative and pairs well
with silk tassle and toyon for holiday cheer. It is drought
tolerant and doesn’t mind some shade.
Symphoricarpos albus (snowberry): deciduous shrub more broad
than tall with lovely long lasting white berries. It grows faster
in sun but tolerates shade and is drought tolerant when
establishes. It fits in a small garden and transplants well. Ï
Resources
Native Revival Nursery Las Pilitas Nursery
2600 Mar Vista Dr., Aptos www.laspilitas.com
(831) 684-1811
www.nativerevival.com California Native Plant Society
www.cnps.org/
Elkhorn Native Plant Nursery
19578 High 1, Moss Landing Theodore Paine Foundation
(831) 763-1207 http://www/theodorepayne.org
www.elkhornnursery.com
12 February - March 2008
Recovery Pruning on Trees After Wind Damage
— Steve Tjosvold, Environmental Horticulture Farm Advisor
What were you doing January 4,
2008? If you were watching tree
branches crack and fall around you
in the spectacular windstorm,
perhaps you could use a quick lesson
on cleaning up and pruning
damaged trees. Even if you don’t do
the pruning yourself, it would be
useful to know the correct method
so you can teach someone to do the
pruning correctly.
Our own Steve Tjosvold
If a large tree has been uprooted, it probably is beyond any
hope of recovery. Young, newly planted trees, however, could
be saved if the majority of the roots are not severed. The young
tree should be propped up with three stakes driven down into
firm native soil. Make one loop or figure eight tie between the
trunk and each stake. Some shoots may need to be pruned out
to compensate for root loss. There is not too much science here,
just a lot of good sense.
How to Remove a Branch
Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
A prescription for recovery pruning could be divided into the
type and size of shoots that were affected. The figure illustrates
the method you should use to maintain the health of your tree
if a large or small branch was broken off in the storm. It clearly
shows what you should and should not do to the tree.
Large wind-damaged lateral branch
If a ragged branch stub is remaining after the end broke off, you
must determine if it will be worth trying to redirect growth
from that stub into desirable new growth. If a large portion of
the branch is affected, it probably is not worth it. Growth from
a large branch stub will be from many adventitious vegetative
buds occurring all at once this spring. Each shoot will be
weakly attached to underlying wood and consequently
produce weak growth. So it is preferable to cut the limb back
to the trunk. Branches much larger than 2 inches in diameter
should be cut in 3 steps to avoid splitting back the branch and
tearing bark. The first cut is made on the underside about 12
inches from the branch crotch (see illustration, point A). Cut
the branch about one-fourth the way through. The second cut
is made on top of the branch above the first cut and so that the
limb falls off. The third cut, made at the crotch,
is done carefully to insure the most rapid healing
(between points C and D on the illustration).
Leader of a tree with a central-leader form (a
conifer or liquidambar for example)
If the leader has broken out you will have spring
growth that results in lots of weak growth
arising near the broken point of the leader.
However, if you let the shoots grow, perhaps for
a full growing season, you will probably see one
shoot that is more dominant and upright than
the rest. That’s the one you are going to choose
to be the new central leader. You do that by not
pruning it and pruning the other competing
branches. You either head back slightly or prune
out completely those competing branches. Take
it a season at a time. It could take years to get
things back to a desirable form. That is why you
need to ask yourself if it will be worth the work
in the first place. Ask yourself if the damage is
too extensive in the first place. Will the tree
recover to a desirable form, ever?
Broken small branches
These should be thinned, or cut out with
pruning cuts at their origin with larger limbs.
You can use the same pruning cut principles
shown in the illustration. Ï
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008
Quail Hollow Ranch Project — Simon Stapleton, MG06
A new volunteer project has been approved for 2008: Quail
Hollow Ranch.
The primary goal of this project is to upgrade the existing
gardens and surrounding grounds and create a more drought
tolerant landscape. Plans include installing an irrigation
system, replacing a lawn area, creating a manageable
composting area, and planting appropriate plant material. We
are also considering a greenhouse for propagating plants. These
projects are aimed at offering advanced training opportunities
for MGs as well as the general public. Natural woodland
gardening and vertebrate pest control are possibilities for
advanced training opportunities.
Quail Hollow Ranch is a 300-acre county park located in the
sand hills of the San Lorenzo Valley between Zayante and Ben
Lomond. The park includes meadows, a pond, chaparral,
forests, numerous trails, gardens, and an orchard. It is also
home to several unique and endangered plants and animals. It
is a nature preserve and historical landmark and is the former
home of the Lane family, publishers of Sunset Magazine and
Sunset Books. The ranch has been featured in Sunset Magazine as
well as other publications.
Views of Quail Hollow Ranch. Photos by Simon Stapletom
13
Weddings and nature-themed special events are held at the
Ranch on a regular basis. Hiking trails are located throughout
the park and guided bird walks are conducted on the first
Sunday of the month. The Ranch also provides horse boarding
for local residents. The Ranch House serves as a Visitor Center
and is open Wednesday thru Sunday. Inside are many historic
items as well as a library of early Sunset magazines and books.
Information and activities scheduled at the Quail Hollow
Ranch can be found at http://www.scparks.com/parkfac/
quail.shtml
Master Gardener volunteers will be involved in the planning,
design, and implementation of each phase of the project. We
plan to seek grants from the local water districts to aid in
funding the irrigation system and the replacement of the lawn
area. As stated earlier, these projects will provide advanced
training opportunities for both the MGs and the public. We
have requested no funds or grants from the MBMG. We will
seek the assistance of the Master Composters in creating a
manageable compost area. In addition, we will research, obtain
(either by purchase or propagation), and plant appropriate
plant material for the area. The park has a limited program of
gardening presentations throughout the year.
Ultimately, we envision the ranch to be a regular location on
the Water Wise Garden Tour. Also, Quail Hollow Ranch has
the potential to be the location for a satellite MBMG
Demonstration Garden. We have the support of the Park
Superintendent and County Park system to develop a MBMG
project at Quail Hollow Ranch we expect the project to be
long term.
The remoteness and quiet, peaceful ambience of the ranch
provide a very relaxing location in which to work. We, Karen
Cozza (enrolled in the MBMG class of 2008) and Simon
Stapleton, have been working at the ranch for about a year and
find it to be very rewarding.
If you would like to make Quail Hollow Ranch one of your
volunteer projects, please contact Simon at
sistapleto@comcast.net or 335-4947. Ï
14 February - March 2008
Book Review: Plants and Landscapes for Summer-Dry Climates
of the San Francisco Bay Region — Sue Tarjan, MG06
This invaluable gardening guide and eye catching coffee-table
book won the American Horticultural Society’s 2005 book
award and most likely warrants a place on your bookshelf as
well. It packs information on more than 650
native Californian and Mediterranean plants and
over 500 color photographs into 336 big,
beautiful pages. To provide as much practical
hands-on advice in growing and propagating
plants in the region as possible, a wide range of
local experts were consulted in its creation,
including horticulturists, botanists, native plant
experts, landscape designers, nursery owners,
environmentalists, educators, and grounds
maintenance personnel.
The EBUMD’s first book was published in 1986
and reprinted many times to meet popular
demand. This latest effort was inspired by the increased
availability of native and non-native drought-tolerant species
and residents’ heightened awareness of environmental
concerns like sustainability and water conservation. Its
approach emphasizes working with rather than against nature
by taking into account local weather patterns, microclimates,
topography, soils, and resource limitations when designing,
planting, and growing landscapes and gardens in the San
Francisco Bay Region. By helping gardeners develop sites
appropriately and choose plants that have evolved to thrive in
environments like ours, the book promotes the appropriate use
of resources and gardening success—truly a win-win situation!
The book opens with an overview of regional microclimates,
including an explanation of the weather patterns generated by
the synergy between the Bay and coastal topography. Next
comes a description of native plant communities in the area:
oak woodland, chaparral, coastal scrub, grassland, and
redwood and mixed evergreen forests. The section on plant
adaptations to summer-dry climates like ours is particularly
illuminating.
Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
The second chapter is my favorite: “Some Notes on Design.”
This chapter sets forth the major factors to keep in mind when
planning your outdoor space: summer drought, winter damp,
specific microclimates, and even fire safety. Most
useful are the practical suggestions for
transitioning among different areas of the garden
and handling different plant requirements (e.g.,
unwatered, infrequently watered, and regularly
watered) by employing features such as raised
beds, earthen mounds, and containers. Not just in
this chapter but throughout the book,
photographs of the plants grouped in a variety of
garden settings are wonderful visual aids.
The plant catalog is extensive and well organized
and covers all the important basics like climate
zones and cultural preferences. In addition,
suggestions abound for dealing with hot sites, dry shade, clay
soils, small spaces, and other gardening challenges. Special
concerns like constructing screens and windbreaks or creating
wildlife habitat are also addressed.
Chapter Four, “The Landscape Over Time,” is particularly
valuable as it focuses on gardens as living, growing, evolving
ecosystems with needs that change as plants mature. The
wealth of resources is similarly not to be overlooked. The list of
display gardens alone can start you planning several weeks
worth of gardening field trips. Considerable thought went into
the index, too, providing quick and easy access to specific
topics. But the best part of all is that it was created locally to
meet the needs of our community and environment in a way
sure to please everyone—the people AND the plants!
Purchase online at the East Bay Municipal Utility District’s
website: http://www.ebmud.com/conserving_&_recycling/
plant_book/default.htm. Ï
East Bay Municipal Utility District (EBMUD), 2004
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008 15

Winter Tool Maintenance — Gina Strup, MG04

The central coast definitely has a climate that com-
pels gardeners to adhere to a yearly tool care schedule. The
high levels of humidity accelerate oxidation resulting in rust.
Our job is to prevent it. A little oil, a file, steel wool and elbow
grease are often all that is needed for the job. A major
argument for monthly tool care, if not daily, is energy output.
Eliot Coleman states in his book, The New Organic Grower, that a
dull tool can decrease your efficiency by up to 50 percent. This
means that you could do twice the work with a sharp tool
versus a dull one. A file in the back pocket works great to
sharpen on the move. A dull tool is also detrimental to the soil,
which, as we all know, is our main consideration. A sharp tool
makes for a more smooth, productive and effective experience.
If you are still not convinced, then think of it as a way to break
up your skill set into one more branch… like propagation of the
mind and body.
Now it is time to gather up all candidates for sprucing up. Get
your shovels, hoes, digging forks, loppers, hedge trimmers,
trowels, etc. Don’t forget to include your gopher traps if you
have them.
Back to our yearly cleaning, a “BBQ” gauge wire brush with a
metal scraper on the back works best to clean stubborn dirt off
of the metal parts. Give the metal end a good scrub with the
brush. Don’t be bashful; this will make the next step easier.
Now we are ready for the steel wool. Remove any rusty flakes
left on the metal surfaces until you see the metal underneath
shine through.
Next is time to sharpen. Get your shovels, hoes, loppers and
hedge trimmers (hand pruners are in a category all their own)
and anything else you deem appropriate. This is a great place
to start if you are thinking about sharpening your own knives.
As counterintuitive as it may seem, this is a ‘feel as you go’ kind
of situation. Each tool has its own level of sharpness that is
required to achieve effective use. A shovel will not need to be
sharpened as much as evened out, and a hoe needs to be
sharpened so that it effortlessly cuts through the soil.
you are doing. It’s all in the angle that you are trying to achieve.
Any tools with working parts such as loppers, will need to be
taken apart and cleaned of all debris so they work smoothly.
You will need a honing stone to sharpen your lopper and hand
pruners. Once sharp, put your tool to the test and adjust it
accordingly. Be patient. This is ‘learn as you go’ and you will
get better at it.
Sand the wooden handles first if needed to remove any rough
spots or splinters then oil lightly. Sometimes I use a wax
instead of oil, depending on what I have handy. A good eco
floor polish works great. Plan on letting the tools set for at
least a day so the oil can absorb into the wood and not your
hands. If you have a warm place to set the tools to let them
cure, this will help speed the process. The type of oil you use
for the wood is up to you. The topic is as political as using
Ortho versus worm castings and goes from linseed oil to olive
oil to WD-40 (why do I love the smell??). I say use what you
have, experiment a little, but do keep in mind that you may be
absorbing whatever oil you use.
Sometimes you will be confronted with culling a beloved tool
that has served your garden and possibly a parent or
grandparents garden as well. Thankfully this is not always
necessary. Usually you can easily replace handles and blades at
the hardware store. You may have to resign to turning it into
garden art or saying goodbye.
Something easy you can do to keep your tools oiled on a
regular basis is to have a tool-cleaning bucket. Use a five
gallon bucket (scavenged from the dump) filled just past
midway with playground sand that has been mixed with about
half a quart of motor oil (see note below). You want a mixture
that is not too oily, so add sparingly. Use this to gently stab
your tools into before putting them away, knocking off rust
making dirt and oiling the metal and wood, just like you would
your cracked dry hands. I keep a wire brush next to the bucket
for stubborn clay chunks and place the bucket where it will
not collect water. Just replace the sand and oil as needed.

When you sharpen your tools, it is very helpful to have a place Taking the time to clean and care for your tools can make a
to stabilize them. A vice works best if you have it. Make sure three-dollar investment for a trowel last ten years plus. That’s
you have a good grip on your tool and try to work on the down thirty cents a year for a tool. That logic mixed with my love for
stroke. Run your finger perpendicular to the blade to see how frugality has me converted into a tool-maintaining gardener. Ï

Editor’s Note: Motor Oil in Soil

The practice of cleaning tools in a mixture of motor oil and sand has been widely accepted for years. Motor oil is
considered a hazardous waste product and, according to the EPA, is “insoluble, persistent and can contain toxic
chemicals and heavy metals; it is slow to degrade; and it sticks to everything from beach sand to bird feathers; it's a major
source of oil contamination of waterways and can result in pollution of drinking water sources.” (http://www.epa.gov/
epaoswer/hazwaste/usedoil/index.htm) Vegetable oil is also not accepted at some landfills, but is not listed among
hazardous waste products on the Santa Cruz Landfill site. (http://www.ci.santa -cruz.ca.us/pw/landfill/unaccwas.html)
We are recommending that you use vegetable rather than motor oil; however, it is clear that more research is needed.
16 February - March 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
Advanced Training Opps: February and March — Christina Kriedt, MG06
date day time class organization website contact
2 Sat 11:00am -- Grow the Earliest Tomatoes Love Apple Farm http:// mailto:loveapplefarm@
Feb loveapplefarm.typepad.com/ gmail.com
1:00pm
growbetterveggies/upcoming-
eventsclasses.html

2 Sat 10:30-12:30 Fruit Tree Varieties Common Ground http://

www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm

9 Sat 10:30-12:30 Using Natives in the Garden Common Ground http://

www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm

9 Sat 4:00-7:00 Designing, Building & CA Native Garden http://www.cngf.org/ mailto:info@cngf.org

Maintaining a Native Garden Foundation programs.htm

10 Sun 10:00-3:00 Tour Private Gardens in San

Jose
10 Sat 11:00am – Grow Your Own Tomato Love Apple Farm http:// mailto:loveapplefarm@
or 23 2:00pm Transplants form Seed loveapplefarm.typepad.com/ gmail.com
growbetterveggies/upcoming-
eventsclasses.html

16 Sat 10:30-12:30 Seed Propagation Common Ground http://

www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm
16 Sat 9:00-12:00 Fruit Tree Pruing Cooper Historic see flyer on the MBMG
Garden website http://
www.montereybaymastergard
eners.org
16 Sat 2:00-4:00 Double-Digging and Bed Common Ground http://
Preparation www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm
23 Sat 9:00-12:00 Pruning Small Trees and La Mirada Museum see flyer on the MBMG
Shrubs in the Garden Garden website http://
www.montereybaymastergard
eners.org
23 Sat 10:30-12:30 Compost Crops and Rotations Common Ground http://
www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm
23 Sat 11:30-3:00 Fruit Tree Pruning Common Ground http://
www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm

23 Sat 2:00-4:00 Insect Life for a Healthier Common Ground http://

Garden www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm
27 Sat 12:00 – Creating & Sustaining School UC Davis Student http:// mailto:cynjord@pacbell.
5:00pm Gardens Farm cesantabarbara.ucdavis.edu/ net
files/46188.pdf
28 Sat 8:30am –
12:00pm

Volunteer Opportunities
Cooper Adobe Garden: workdays 10:00-noon on 1st and 3rd Wednesdays of month. Contact Marcia Smullen, 626-3519. Other workdays
can be arranged.
Seaside Green Team Project: workdays every 3rd Saturday 1:00 - 3:00 PM. Contact Mary Wilson, 393-0193 bluespud@pacbell.net, and
ask to be placed on email reminder list.
Carmel Orchid Society: meets at 7:30 PM on the first Monday of each month, except May, September and December at: First
Presbyterian Church of Monterey, 501 El Dorado Street, Monterey.
Santa Cruz Orchid Society: monthly meeting at Live Oak Grange, 1900 17th Avenue, Santa Cruz at 8:00 PM on the first Friday of each
month. Orchid show and sale is in early February each year.
Monterey Bay Dahlia Society: meets second Friday of every month; 7:00 PM potluck dinner, 7:30 PM meeting. Simpkins Swim Center,
Community Room 979 - 17th Avenue, Santa Cruz
Monterey Bay Rose Society: meets the last Friday of the month at the Grange Hall, 2555 Mar Vista Drive, Aptos. Check the web site
(http://www.montereybayrosesociety.org/) for guest speaker information.
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008 17

date day time class organization website contact

1 Sat 11:00am – Grow the Biggest Tomatoes Love Apple Farm http:// mailto:loveapplefarm@
March loveapplefarm.typepad.com/ gmail.com
1:00pm
growbetterveggies/upcoming-
eventsclasses.html

1 Sat 2:00-4:00 Blueberries and Other Small Common Ground http://

Fruits www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm

8 Sat 10:30-12:30 Growing Terrific Tomatoes Common Ground http://

www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm
9 Sun 11:00am – Grow Your Own Tomato Love Apple Farm http:// mailto:loveapplefarm@
2:00pm Transplants form Seed loveapplefarm.typepad.com/ gmail.com
growbetterveggies/upcoming-
eventsclasses.html

12-16 Wed- 9:00am many seminars San Francisco Flower http://www.gardenshow.com/

Sun and Garden Show sf/index/index.asp

15 Sat 10:30-12:30 Companion Planting Common Ground http://

www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm
15 Sat 1:30-3:30 Planning Your Garden Common Ground http://
www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm

22 Sat 10:30-12:00 Spring Gardening Ideas Common Ground http://

www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm

22 Sat 11:00am – Compost and Vermiculture Love Apple Farm http:// mailto:loveapplefarm@
1:00pm loveapplefarm.typepad.com/ gmail.com
growbetterveggies/upcoming-
eventsclasses.html
29 Sat 10:30-12:30 Starting Your Spring Garden Common Ground http://
www.commongroundinpaloalt
o.org/upcomingclasses.htm

Plan Ahead
9 Sun 9:00am – Tending a Summer Vegetable Love Apple Farm http:// mailto:loveapplefarm
April loveapplefarm.typepad.com/ @gmail.com
4:00pm Garden
growbetterveggies/upcoming-
eventsclasses.html

19 Sat 11:00am – Keeping Chickens Love Apple Farm http:// mailto:loveapplefarm

1:00pm loveapplefarm.typepad.com/ @gmail.com
growbetterveggies/upcoming-
eventsclasses.html

30-31 Fri- Conference: Climate Change CCUH, UC Davis http://www.cevs.ucdavis.edu/

May Cofred/Public/Aca/
Sat and Your Backyard
ConfHome.cfm?confid=34714

16 Sat 11:00am – Designing Ca Native Gardens Native Revival http://www.nativerevival.com/

June about_us.html
1:00pm Nursery
17-18 Thu- 11:00am – Plant Problem - Diagnosis & UC Davis http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/
July calendar/eventdisplay.cfm?
Fri 2:00pm Becoming a First Detector
caleventnum=28913

Sept 24-26 Wed- Statewide MG Conference Monterey Bay Master http://calendar.ucanr.org/

Fri Gardeners eventdisplay.cfm?
caleventnum=25130

22-26 Sun- International MG Conference, MGs of Southern http://

Mar www.extension.iastate.edu/
Thurs Las Vegas Nevada Nevada
2009 story/news/09mgconf.htm
18 February - March 2008
Masters Garden Tour Update — Candice McLaren, MG01
2008 is a shaping up to be a fantastic year! Not only do we
have a great new class and a Smart Gardening Faire, but a
Garden Tour that will encompass the entire Monterey Bay.
The Tour will be held August 9th and 10th, a month earlier
than previous years.
Description
The 2008 Monterey Bay Masters Tour will for the first time
combine gardens created by our Master Gardeners and public
gardeners located around the entire Monterey Bay — and for
an entire weekend! The Tour will showcase the winners of our
area-wide contest and will demonstrate the best drought
tolerant plant selections and water conservation ideas on the
Central Coast. Gardens can be designed by professionals or by
homeowners. (Two categories, two groups.) Contest rules will
need to go out immediately and the committee of Master
Gardeners will be the judges.
Master Gardener volunteers will be able to use their
knowledge about water conservation, rainwater collection,
gray water, drip irrigation, drought tolerant plant selection,
and intergraded pest management. This year’s tour has the
potential to show the public what the Master Gardener
program is all about!
The contest and final selection of the winning gardens will
take place between February 1 and June 21st.
Expansion to the entire Monterey Bay Area
The proposed 2008 Master Gardener Tour will be held
throughout the Monterey Bay area and for entire weekend.
There will be three regions:
• Santa Cruz/Aptos/Capitola
• Watsonville/ Aromas/Prunedale /Salinas
• Carmel/Monterey.
There will be photos and a description of each garden as well
as a map for the entire Monterey Bay Area. The comprehensive
map will enable visitors to plan a visit to all locations over the
weekend or select a region for a one-day tour. It will provide
good places to lunch, garden-friendly places to stay, gas
stations, and nurseries along the way. By showcasing the entire
Monterey Bay, we hope to attract gardeners from all over
California!
The flowers of late winter and early spring
occupy places in our hearts
well out of proportion to their size.
Gertrude S. Wister
Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
Focus: Water
Global warming, La Nina, water conservation, desalination for
drinking water, or just living in California are all reasons to be
concerned about our most precious resource: water. Outdoor
watering represents about 30% of our water usage. A focus on
conservation gives us an opportunity to educate the home
gardener about ways to conserve water while doing what we
all love best, gardening!
Volunteer Opportunities for Monterey Bay Master Gardeners
• Pre-Tour: Organize the contest; coordinate with the water
agencies; develop the criteria; tour the submitted gardens;
judge the gardens
• Photograph gardens; describe gardens
• Prepare the brochure; develop mini-tours with travel times
and places to stop
• Organize ticket sales
• Organize volunteers for the gardens
• On Tour Day: Volunteer as a docent to answer questions
about the gardens; talk about the various water
conservation techniques and plant selections for the
micro-climates; sell/take tickets; volunteer at information
tables.
• After the Tour: Arrange pickup of rental equipment; turn
in attendance and mailing lists; financial reporting
The value of the 2008 Masters Gardener Tour to you as a
Monterey Bay Master Gardener
The Monterey Bay Master Gardener program is pioneering the
look and feel of California gardens in the 21st century. Drought
tolerance affects every aspect of gardening, not just plant
selection. This means a complete restructuring of gardening
concepts to meet the challenge of the future: water
conservation. This Tour has the potential to show home
gardeners the purpose and extent of the Master Gardener
program, our collective knowledge, and our dedication to
positively influencing the future of gardening. There is no
argument that we must focus on a drought-tolerant theme.
This is your opportunity to share your knowledge; but the
greater opportunity will be to learn from professionals and
experienced home gardeners who have already begun to
change the gardening paradigm.
2008 is a year of change! This Garden Tour gives
ALL Monterey Bay Master Gardeners a chance to volunteer in
their local areas and will really put the Monterey Bay Masters
Garden Tour on the map! Ï
Next Issue of Gardening on the Edge:
Weeds, Pests and Beneficials
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008
Relevant Internet Miscellany — Christina Kriedt, MG06
About plants in soil with oil: “The decomposition of used
motor oil in soil as influenced by plant treatment was
monitored in a greenhouse study. Soil contaminated with used
motor oil (1.5% w/w) was seeded with soyabean (Glycine max)/
green bean (Phaseolus vulgaris); sunflower (Helianthus annuus)/
Indian mustard (Brassica juncea); mixed grasses/maize (Zea
mays); and mixed clover (red clover, Trifolium pratense/ladino
clover, Trifolium repens) and incubated. Soxhlet-extractable oil
and grease remaining in the soil was monitored after 100 and
150 days. After 150 days in the clover treatment, the added oil
was no longer detected. A total of 67% of the oil was removed
in sunflower/mustard, and with addition of NPK fertilizer, the
oil was completely removed. The grass/maize treatment
resulted in a 38% oil reduction, which increased to 67% with
fertilizer application. The control treatment reduced oil in soil
by 82% when fertilizer was added. At 150 days the sunflower/
mustard and wheat/oats treatments produced the greatest
biomass in the presence of used oil.” Wow! Environmental
Engineering Science, 2004 (Vol. 21) (No. 2) 169-180; http://
www.cababstract-splus.org/google/abstract.asp?AcNo=20043058964. Ï
Start saving up — the 2009 International Master Gardeners
Conference will be held in Las Vegas, Nevada, March 22-26
Confessions of a Reluctant Gardener: Slick!
I got interested in the oil-in-the-bucket-of-sand question and
did a little research online. Didn’t learn too much about
problems associated with substituting vegetable oil for the
motor oil, but I did learn a few things about non-stick spray
cooking oil — you know, the kind in a can. If you spray it on
your (clean) tools before you use them, they’re easier to clean
up later. You can also spray keys so they slip into locks more
easily. (Someone runs around with a can of cooking spray and
spritzes it on everything just to see what works?) My favorite
never-would-have-tried-it-in-a-million-years idea, though, is
to spray non-stick cooking oil onto your washed shower walls
and fixtures and all the soap scum will just ‘wipe right off’ with
a clean dry towel. I confess I’m going to try it.
Okay, that information doesn’t help your garden grow, but you
can’t spend ALL your time in the yard. Lately I’ve been
spending my time at the computer trying to improve the
availability of important MBMG information such as advanced
training opportunities. If you want to be a recertified Master
Gardener you must spend 20 hours advancing your training
every year. So I have organized the current data into tables
(pages 16 and 17 and online) hoping that it makes it easier for
MGs to find opportunities that are just right. I’ll update it as I
receive or find info. That’s one good excuse for staying indoors.
You too can earn volunteer hours (you need 30 of them)
working on the website or newsletter. Hint. Hint.
I’ve been spending a lot of time working on the newsletter too.
I ventured into my yard on one of our recent frigid, drippy
afternoons to photograph something — anything — for this
19
(that’s 2009). The topic is New Frontiers in Horticulture and
Gardening. http://www.unce.unr.edu/imgc/ Ï
My favorite drought tolerant plant is Sarcococca, an Asian
native. It is evergreen, grows very slowly, likes shade, has tiny
white flowers followed by red berries (that turn black), is
loved by bees, and is extremely fragrant during its winter
bloom time. There is a stunning foundation planting of
Sarcococca (there are several species and I cannot identify
these) on the east (?) side of the UCCE building and it smells
fantastic. Pay it a visit! (Oh, and: “The genus name is a
redundancy meaning Fruit - Sarcos and Berries - Cocca.”)
http://www.paghat.com/saracococca.html Ï
Fiber optic grass, Isolepis
cernua, can grow in perpetually
wet or boggy soil in full sun.
Silvery flower heads are present
all year on the ends of thin
stems. It looks dainty and
innocent, but all parts of the
plant are poisonous if ingested.
Photo by Christina Kriedt
— Christina Kriedt,
very issue. I was very pleasantly surprised, as I often am on one
of my infrequent visits, to find many ‘tender’ plants weathering
the cold and wind quite well. A couple of houseplants that I
forgot to bring indoors are pretty much done for, but others are
amazingly fine. Goes to show that you can’t believe everything
you read — unless you read it here, of course — and you have
to experiment in your own personal microclimate.
I found my old faithfuls blooming away: Cymbalaria, pansies,
Lobelia, and my crazy ever-blooming rose; fat Meyer lemons
ripening; big pots of bamboo, stalks drooping heavily with
rainwater; groves of Oxalis, or ‘sour grass’ as we called it in
grammar school. (If it weren’t so invasive, I’d consider it a
lovely garden plant — that scandalous statement is bound to
elicit a serious groan from some of you.) In all, it doesn’t look
that bad out there. Of course, it’s too cold for me to be tempted
to do any work in the yard, but I appreciate the heroic effort of
my plants to stay alive ‘til spring. And, as far as I know, there is
no motor oil in my soil, which is a relief.
I asked Steve Tjosvold about vegetable vs motor. His reply: “I
really don't know. It does seem intuitively that veg oil would
break down more quickly than motor oil. They both would
need to be decomposed by microorganisms in the soil and
therefore that would take time and warm sand.“ Maybe one of
you MGs will be inspired to really research this topic and
report back to us. You’ll get advanced training hours for your
efforts and you’ll undoubtedly uncover some really ‘interesting’
information on the web suitable for winning Trivia games and
adding shine to your conversations. Ï
20 February - March 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS

What’s Blooming in Your Garden in February and March?

This list is exerpted from the What’s Bloomin’ database, which is based on observations made by Monterey Bay Master
Gardeners in Monterey, Santa Cruz and San Benito counties. The entire database is online at http://www.montereybaymaster
gardeners.org. Please send your data to Annette Longuevan at bloomingepoll@gmail.com.

Abelia grandiflora Daphne odora Iris - Pacific Coast hybrids Protea ssp.
Abutilon spp. Diascia spp. Iris X hollanica cultivars Prunus armeniaca
Aechmea spp. & hybrids Dietes iridioides (D. vegeta) Jasminum polyanthum Prunus besseyi
Agapanthus hybrids Dudleya spp. Kerria japonica Prunus domestica
Anemone coronaria Dymondia margaretae Kniphofia uvaria Prunus dulcis
Angelica sinensis Echium fastuosum (E. candicans) Lavatera assurgentiflora Prunus hybrid
Antirrhinum majus Erigeron karvinskianus Lavendula spp. Prunus persica
Bergenia sp. and hybrids Erysimum spp. Leptospermum scoparium Prunus, subgenus Cerasus
Brugmansia spp. Euphorbia spp. Leucodendron 'Safari Sunrise' Psoralea pinnata
Calendula officinalis Euryops spp. Leucojum aestivum Ranunculus asiaticus
Camelia spp. and hybrids Festuca californica Lithospermum diffusum Rhaphiolepis indica hybrids
Ceanothus spp. and hybrids Foeniculum vulgare Lobularia maritima Rhododendron spp. and hybrids
Cestrum spp. Freesia hybrids Lonicera spp. Ribes spp.
Chaenomeles japonica Fremontadendron spp. and Lorapetalum chinense Rosa spp. and hybrids
Chrysanthemum spp. hybrids Malus spp. and hybrids Rosemarinus officinalis
Citrus hybrids Fuchsia hybrida Melaleuca alternifolia Salvia leucantha
Citrus spp. Gaura lindheimeri Michelia spp. Sutera cordata
Clematis spp. Gladiolus hybrids Muscari spp. Teucrium fruticans
Clivia miniata Grevillea rosmarinifolia Myosotis spp. Tulipa spp. and hybrids
Correa spp. Hardenbergia spp. Narcissus spp. and hybrids Viburnum spp. and hybrids
Cotoneaster spp. Hebe spp.and hybrids Ocimum hybrid Vicia faba
Crocosmia crocosmiiflora Hebe spp.and hybrids Oxalis spp. Viola spp.
Cuphea hyssopifolia Helleborus spp. Passiflora spp. Watsonia spp.
Cyclamen spp. Hemerocallis spp. Penstemon spp. Westringia fruticosa
Cydonia oblonga Heuchera spp. and hybrids Petunia hybrida Wisteria spp.
Chaenomeles Iberis sempervirens Pieris japonica Zantedeschia aethiopica
Cymbidium hybrids Iris - bearded hybrids Primula spp. Ï

G A R D E N I N G ON T H E ED G E
Newsletter of the Monterey Bay Master Gardeners
Editor Christina Kriedt
Assistant Editors Sharon Ettinger & Kathleen Sonntag
Design/Layout Christina Kriedt

CONTRIBUTORS
Al Derrick Sharon Ettinger
Christina Kriedt Simon Stapleton
Cynthia Jordan Steve Tjosvold
Gina Strup Sue Tarjan
Leora Worthington Tom Karwin
Paul McCollum

Hotline: 831-763-8007

Copyright © 2008 MBMG. All rights reserved

MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î February - March 2008 21

Visit Our Wonderful Sponsors !

Sierra Azul Nursery, Watsonville, http://www.sierraazul.com, 763-0939,

email: sierraazulnursery@yahoo.com
Lumbermens, Santa Cruz, http://www.lumbermens.net/store_locator/zSearch.asp?
ZipSearchSubmit=1&State=CA, 423-0223, email: gardencenter@lumbermens.net
The Garden Company, Santa Cruz, http://www.thegardenco.com/, 429-8424
FezQ, Carmel Valley, 659-1268
Bokay, Salinas, http://www.bokaynursery.com/, 659-1268, email: jeff@bokaynursery.com
Hidden Gardens, Aptos, 688-7011
The Potting Shed, Aptos, 685-1626
Wild Rose Landscape Design, Aptos, 539-5841, claudia@wildroselandscape.com