Chapter6 - Storage Tank System Design and Installation

6 System design and installation
CHAPTER 6
System Design and Installation

Table of contents
6.1 Pre-installation ..........................................................................................172

6.1.1 Site assessment.................................................................................172
6.1.2 System sizing .....................................................................................175
6.1.3 System selection criteria ....................................................................177
6.2 The installation ..........................................................................................185
6.2.1 Preparation for installation .................................................................185
6.2.2 Getting collectors and tank onto a roof...............................................186
6.2.3 Strengthening existing roof structure..................................................190
6.2.4 Thermosiphon remote storage systems .............................................190
6.2.5 Installation of the in-ceiling tank .........................................................199
6.2.6 Pump circulation system (split system) ..............................................203
6.3 Retrofitting to existing hot water systems ..................................................205
6.4 Mounting of tanks......................................................................................211
6.5 Other components.....................................................................................216
6.6 Multiple unit installations ...........................................................................222
Solar Water Heater Training Course – Installer and User Manual 171
6. SYSTEM DESIGN AND INSTALLATION

6.1 Pre-installation
What this section is about
In this section it is assumed that the supplier/installer has to make various decisions
about the site, the quantity of hot water likely to be used, the most suitable type of
solar water heater, and the best location for the unit. It is desirable that these
decisions be made in consultation with the property owner.
This section falls naturally into two parts: analysing what is required and selecting a
system and installing the selected system
6.1.1 Site assessment
A check list is an excellent way to ensure that all aspects of the installation are
considered and that nothing is overlooked. Some solar hot water companies produce
such a check list, but it must be remembered that their check list relates to their
particular product. It may not include options that an independent installer would
consider.
In preparing a check list of things to consider, a good starting point is to use a check
list provided by a solar hot water supplier and then add to the list as time goes by and
you start to include ideas specific to your style of operation. Clearly a computer
provides a good way of doing this and also allows an easy record to be kept for each
installation or quotation.
Regional information should be included in the check list.
Is the site suitable for a solar water heater installation?
• Are there tall trees or buildings that would shade the unit for all or part of the
year? If so, the unit will not function properly or perhaps even at all.
• Are there young trees or planned buildings that will shade a unit in the future?
• Is it possible to have the unit facing north or close to north?
• Is the water quality likely to determine the type of system that can be installed?
Is the use suited to a solar water heater installation?
Are there going to be characteristics of hot water use that would make the use of a
solar system of doubtful benefit? If there are, the potential owner should be made
aware of them. Factors to consider include:
• Is the unit going to be used year-round? Holiday houses, caravan parks and
schools may be vacant for periods of the year.
• Will there be long periods with little or no hot water being used? Is a solar
system really the best option in these circumstances?
• What is to be done with the hot water at times when it is not being used?
• Are maintenance issues likely to be a source of problems and ongoing
irritation?
It is important to get these two considerations (site and use) out of the way first,
because if a solar system is unsuitable then there is no point in proceeding.
Have energy efficiency and water savings been investigated?

It is cheaper to save a watt than make a watt. This applies with solar water heating.
There is no point in installing a large unit if a smaller one coupled with some water-
saving measures would do the same job. A larger than required system represents
wasted resources (to manufacture the system) and wasted money by the home
owner.
The gas water heater storage
tank (left) was moved from the
concrete block to a new
location just outside the
kitchen where the most
frequent use of hot water
occurs.
In the new location it takes
half a litre of water run into the
kitchen sink before the water
is hot. With the tank in the
previous location it took four
or five litres – a waste of water
and a waste of energy to heat
the water. The same saving
occurs when using the
bathroom and laundry.
The thermostat has been set
to a lower temperature so that
there is less standing heat
loss from the storage tank.
Original site of the hot water storage
tank.
New location, just outside the
kitchen.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.1.1 – Relocating a hot water service

Has a hot water audit been conducted?
If the owner is happy about doing it, a full audit of hot water usage can be very
revealing.
• Are flow restrictors or low-volume shower heads installed on showers?
• Is the owner happy about having them installed?
• Is the hot water unit going to be as close as possible to the point/s of most
frequent use? Running litres of water to waste while waiting for the hot to come
through is wasteful of water, and of energy to heat the water. If the hot water
service is placed close to the kitchen or bathroom, it can generate huge
savings.
• Is hot water being used for clothes washing when cold would do?
• How many people are there in the family and is this likely to change?
• Does the household do lots of clothes washing? Are there little children?
• Do people have long showers or short showers? Do they shower once or twice
a day?
• If there is a dishwasher, does it use hot water or heat the water itself?
• Is there a spa or some other appliance that requires large quantities of hot
water? How often will it be used?
With answers to these questions it is possible to draw a profile of how much hot
water is likely to be used. It does not have to be accurate to the last litre or even 20
litres of hot water used each day. It does, however, give an indication as to which of
the different units on the market would be suitable.
Be aware that some members of a family may agree to reduced hot water usage
while others will not modify their wasteful habits, and the hot water system must meet
the family’s needs. As an installer, you need to try and make a realistic assessment
of the likely usage.
Is the system to be installed in a new house or an existing house?
New house
If the solar water heater is to be installed on a new house, the type of system,
location and plumbing can be designed from the start. If an installer has the
opportunity to advise the owner, builder or architect before a house is built, this
provides the chance to ensure a good, energy-efficient installation.
In most cases the system will be specified by someone else and the installer will be
told to put it ‘there’. If ‘there’ seems unsuitable, the installer should say so and offer a
better suggestion, even though the suggestion may not be accepted. Keep a brief
note of what you recommended so that if in the future there is dissatisfaction with the
system you have a copy of what you recommended.
Existing house
If the solar water heater is to be installed on an existing house, further investigation is
essential. There are many questions to be answered.
• Can the existing hot water system be used as part of the solar system?
• Is it desirable to use the existing system?
• Is the existing system in the most suitable location for energy efficiency or
should it be moved?
• Is it in a suitable position for connection to solar collectors? How much more
life is in the existing system? How old is it?
• Would the hot water storage tank be likely to leak if it is moved? Often old
tanks will last for years, but will not stand being moved.
• What is the quality of the water being used in the hot water system? This will
have a big influence on the anticipated life of an existing system.
• Is the existing system gravity feed or is it mains pressure? Would the existing
pipes be suited to gravity feed or do they require mains pressure?
• What is the pressure of the water supply?
• Is the existing hot water system installed according to acceptable standards? If
not, will you bring it up to standard? If you don’t bring it up to complying
standard, will the system be compromised in terms of regulations and
insurance requirements?
• Is the insulation on existing pipe work adequate? If not, will you add insulation
where you can?
• Does the district have frosts (regularly, sometimes, hardly ever, never)?
• Is the roof strong enough to support solar collectors? Is the roof strong enough
to support an on-roof tank as part of a close coupled system? What
strengthening would be necessary?
• What type of roof cladding is installed or will be installed?
• Is boosting going to be necessary when the sun isn’t shining? For most of
Australasia the answer is ‘yes’, though in parts of Northern Australia it may be
deemed unnecessary.
• What energy source is being used at present to produce hot water?
• What energy sources are available for supplementary heating – electricity,
natural gas, liquefied petroleum (LP) gas, oil or solid fuel?
• Are off-peak or night-rate electricity tariffs available at the property or would a
separate circuit need to be arranged in order to utilise these for controlling
supplementary heating?
• What is the most suitable way of controlling supplementary heating?
• What energy source will be used for boosting a solar hot water system in the
future?
Preliminary questions
These questions show that there is a lot to consider if the best and most suitable
installation is to be achieved. Some of these questions can be answered over the
phone or inside a showroom, without the installer going on site, but an on-site
investigation is really the only way for the installer to be fully informed.
A preliminary on-site inspection costs money. The so-called ‘free on-site quote’ is of
course not free. Someone has to pay for it eventually, whether it’s the installer
looking for work, or the customer. Some carefully aimed questions when a potential
client first inquires can often avoid the ‘free site visit’ and save a lot of unnecessary
running round and wasted time.
After asking these questions it is possible to roughly estimate which system would
suit and what it might cost. If the client is agreeable to what is proposed, then an on-
site visit would appear to be justified.
6.1.2 System sizing
The size of the system involves the sizing of two components: the hot water storage
tank and the collector area (number of collectors).
The number of litres of hot water used daily is the first calculation that needs to be
made. This will vary enormously from family to family, but recent figures suggest 60
to 80 litres of hot water per person per day as an average figure for Australasia.
Allow at least 200 litres for a four-person family. Typical flow rates for various
household outlets are found in AS NZS 3500.4 (Appendix D).
Storage tank size

It is desirable to have one-and-a-half to two days of hot water in store, so that if the
sun does not shine one day, there is still solar-heated water available for the next
day. Details are in AS NZS 3500.4 (Appendix H). AS NZS 3500.4 (Figures 8.2, A–G)
show climatic regions of Australia and Figure 8.3 shows those of New Zealand.
House size Number of people Minimum recommended hot water

storage
1–2 bedrooms 1–2 180 litres
3 bedrooms 3–4 300 litres
4–6 bedrooms 5–7+ 400 litres+
Figure 6.1.2 – Recommended hot water storage by house size

The above information provides a good guide for the tank sizes recommended to
meet Victoria’s five-star requirements. Gas-boosted systems, particularly
instantaneous boost, can generally use smaller tank sizes than electrically boosted
systems that use off-peak boosting. For people wanting to use less energy in
boosting the hot water, a larger storage than that recommended is used, but the tank
must be well insulated if it is to stay hot for several days without heat input from the
sun.
Area of collectors
The very rough rule of thumb is that a 1m2 area of collector is required per person
plus 1m2 for each major appliance (e.g. dishwasher, washing machine) using hot
water from the solar system. Most collectors are approximately 2m2 in area.
It must be pointed out, however, that there is a vast difference between different
collectors and their ability to convert the sun’s energy into hot water. Some
manufacturers produce different types of collectors. In some, the number of risers is
increased and the selective surface is highly efficient. These collectors are suited to
cooler climates where performance in winter is to be enhanced. These collectors may
not suit areas in northern Australia as they will result in the water being overheated.
The type of collector will influence the number/area of collectors in a system. It is
important to use information provided by the manufacturers, who will have tested
their product and be aware of how their collectors perform.
As a general guide:
• Evacuated tubes do not require as large an absorber area as flat plate
collectors for the same demand and storage tank capacity.
• Flat plate collectors with many risers are more efficient than with few risers, so
less area is required.
• Collectors with selective surfaces are more efficient than black painted
surfaces, so do not require as large an area.
• Plastic collectors are less efficient than metal collectors.
• Regions that have a warm or hot climate require a smaller collector area than
cold windy regions.
The area of collectors will be further affected by the following:
• Do the collectors face the equator (north in Australia and New Zealand)?
• Will the collectors be tilted to approximately the angle of latitude?

• Will there be any shade between 9am and 3pm?
Details of the influence of these factors are covered in Chapter 2, Annex 1.3 and in
manufacturers’ information.
Technical standard AS NZS 3500.4 has a chart of suggested storage tank sizes and
area of collectors to achieve an acceptable solar fraction for a four-person family. It
shows that in the hotter parts of Australia and New Zealand tank capacity and
collector areas can be reduced compared with the cooler regions.
6.1.3 System selection criteria
Deciding which type of system to install is often a commercial rather than a technical
decision.
Many installers deal in only one brand of unit and, if asked, that is what they will
supply, regardless of whether or not it is the most suitable. In this section we look at
the factors to be considered without the pressure to recommend a particular product.
The advantages and disadvantages of the different types of systems are outlined in
Sections 3.4 to 3.7.
Close coupled system
Is a close coupled system possible? If so, it is probably the most economic
installation. It is a relatively simple and straightforward installation. Refer to AS NZS
3500.4 (Section 6.6).
To install a close coupled system:
• The householder must be happy about the appearance of the unit on the roof.
• The roof must be strong enough to carry the weight of the total unit full of water
or be able to be strengthened.
• Access for both the installation and ongoing maintenance is required.
• Double-storey houses will be likely to require a crane, safety fencing or
scaffolding, which when added to the installation cost may make it financially
unattractive.
• Boosting might be electric if natural gas is not available. LP gas is an option,
but is expensive.
• If gas (NG or LPG) is available, the booster unit might be in the storage tank or
either:
• an instantaneous gas unit which is fed by hot water from the close
coupled unit
• gas storage system that is fed from the close coupled unit.
In both of these cases the close coupled unit acts as a pre-heater to the gas hot
water system.
Ground-mounted tank pump-circulated system
Increasingly, ground-mounted tanks are being installed with a circulator pump and
controller to push water from the tank and through the collectors on the roof.
Evacuated tube collectors will generally be installed as part of a split system. Refer to
AS NZS 3500.4 (Section 6.8).
A big advantage of the ground-mounted storage tank is that a heavy tank does not
have to be hoisted up onto the roof. The tank size can be increased for houses
requiring greater quantities of hot water. The tank is generally vertical and can be
located outdoors, therefore not taking up space within the house. A safe (spill) tray is
not required for outdoor tanks. Most plumbers are familiar with the installation of
ground-mounted storage tanks. A standard concrete plinth sitting on the ground is
the usual way of supporting a tank.
Collectors on the roof are not heavy, so it is rare for strengthening of a roof to be
required. Aesthetically, people are more accepting of collectors without a storage
tank on a roof.
For users of large quantities of hot water, a large storage tank at ground level with
pump circulation to the collectors probably makes more sense than several close
coupled units, and should certainly cost less in maintenance.
In-ceiling storage tank – remote storage system
To install a tank in the ceiling space requires significant knowledge of solar systems
and other skills that are now no longer part of most plumbers’ day-to-day
experiences. Refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Section 6.7).
• The tank solar connections must be higher than the collectors. Often this is not
possible.
• A stand is required to support the tank.
• The connecting pipe work between collectors and tank must be correctly
installed and is usually at least 25mm diameter, a size not normally carried by
plumbers.
• The installation of a spill tray with a drain under the tank is required.
• Installation of an in-ceiling tank in an existing house requires the roof to be
opened up.
• If higher pressure than a gravity supply is required, a pressure-boosting pump
with a flow switch is required, or a tank with a mains pressure coil can be used.
• It is possible to use a close coupled system, with the storage tank hidden in the
roof space, to provide mains pressure.
• Numbers of houses have no ceiling space, or too small a ceiling space for the
remote system to be an option.
The remote system with a gravity feed tank and collectors is usually cheaper than
other systems to buy, but the cost and complexity of the installation increases the
cost. Such systems are now comparatively rare as new installations.
Districts with harsh water
Where water is corrosive or the water is hard, it is undesirable to put that water
through the solar collectors. With new supplies of water constantly entering the
collectors there will be an increase in the rate of corrosion and/or deposition of
mineral within the collectors.
If an indirect system is used (such as one with frost protection using anti-freeze and
corrosion inhibitor) the collectors will not be continually having fresh supplies of water
through the collectors. A build-up of scale (calcium carbonate) will be prevented. For
details of water analysis, refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Appendix B).
Using an existing hot water system for a solar system

If a hot water system is near the end of its life, it seems illogical to incorporate it into a
solar hot water system unless it is exactly the component that would be used in a
new system anyway, though this is unlikely. Such a system is called a ‘retrofit’
installation.
Mains pressure electric hot water tanks of adequate size lend themselves quite well
to having a pump circulated system attached to them.
Mains pressure gas storage systems can be used to boost the temperature of
water from a solar system, which acts as a pre-heater before the water passes into
the gas storage unit. For pre-heat, refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Section 6.9).
A mains pressure gas storage unit is not suited to having a circulating pump and
solar collectors added to it. Usually the storage capacity is insufficient but, more
importantly, whenever some hot water is drawn off, the gas heating turns on and
heats the cold water that has entered the tank.
In-ceiling storage tanks can be adapted to have solar collectors added. If the water
quality is good and the tank is in good condition, the addition of solar collectors to
make it a solar system can result in years of satisfactory service. This is probably the
cheapest solar addition possible.
Using a heat pump system
• A heat pump is two to four times more efficient than a straight electric hot water
service with an electric heating element. See Section 3.7 (Heat pump water
heating systems) for more details.
• It is often possible to install a heat pump in places where a normal solar hot
water system would be unsatisfactory, such as in a shaded location.
• In very cold locations a heat pump will probably give disappointing results. It
will be very slow to heat the water and use a lot of power.
• A timer set so that it only operates during the daytime will mean that it operates
during the hottest part of the day, again reducing the hours it has to run and
saving energy.
• The location must be well ventilated so that the cold air it produces is free to
move away.
• A heat pump unit should usually not be installed indoors. Inside a cupboard
should only be done if properly sized ventilation is provided to remove the cold
air and bring in warmer ambient air.
Installation check list and quotation/contract

The check list is used to ensure that all aspects of an installation are covered. If used
as a quotation it means that both installer and customer know exactly where they
stand; what is covered and what is not covered. If the customer is happy with the
quotation, it is signed by both supplier and customer and it becomes a contract. If the
supplier is not the installer, it must be made clear who accepts responsibility under
the conditions of the warranty. Where some work is to be undertaken by the home
owner or other trades, the quotation should make it clear what the respective
responsibilities are. Failure to do this is one of the most common sources of
subsequent problem when something goes wrong. Some companies will only have
their own trained installers undertake an installation.
Figure 6.1.3 – Installation check list
Name of the supplier......................................................................................................

Address..........................................................................................................................
Telephone....................................................email..........................................................
Name of supplier representative....................................................................................
Installer...........................................................................................................................
Address..........................................................................................................................
Telephone....................................................email..........................................................
Name of person for whom system is to be installed (customer).....................................
Customer address..........................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
Telephone....................................................email..........................................................
Address of installation....................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
Building and usage details

Number of people using system.....................................................................................
Number of bedrooms......................................................................................................
Number of bathrooms.....................................................................................................
Position of main points of use relative to the storage tank..................................metres
Anticipated daily hot water usage...........................................................................litres
Water details – cold supply

Water supply authority....................................................................................................
Water pressure..................kPa
Is there a pressure reducing valve at meter?.....................
Is a pressure reducing valve to be installed?.....................
Water quality..................................................................pH
TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)...........................mg/L
Hardness..........................................................mg/L
Valves
Isolating valve
In-line strainer or filter
Non-return valve
Pressure-limiting valve
Expansion valve
Proposed Solar Hot Water System

Type of system proposed:
Close coupled on roof, mains pressure
Ground-mounted tank, mains pressure pump circulation
Gravity feed in-ceiling tank
Storage tank
Storage tank draw off capacity......................................litres
Brand of tank...............................................................model
Boost heating (circle)
Natural Gas LP Gas Electricity Solid Fuel (type of unit)
Boost heating rating.......................Kilowatt.................Megajoule
Boost connection requirements
Electricity – is an adequate supply available?
Gas – is supply available? Do the existing pipes need to be increased in size?
Boost details (position of electric element/s, instantaneous gas in line)
Protective anode – Is the standard anode suited for the water supply?
Select appropriate anode.
Expected solar contribution (kWh pa)
Expected annual supplementary heating (kWh pa)
Expected electricity for circulating pump (kWh pa)
Supplementary heating controller type
Supplementary heating controller settings
PTR (Pressure Temperature Relief Valve) required for mains pressure system
Will a safe tray be required? Yes/No
Will a tank stand or mounting block (concrete plinth) be required?
Collectors:
Number of collectors.................................Approx. area.................................
Brand........................................................Model............................................
Connection of collectors to storage tank:

Close coupled – is kit supplied?
Pump circulated system
Circulating Pump...........................brand......................model
Pump controller.............................brand......................model
Sensor connections
Power supply for circulating pump
Pipe diameter between circulating pump and collectors
Air escape valve?
In-ceiling storage tank
Distance between collectors and storage tank.............metres
Connecting pipe diameter.............................................mm
Is the bottom of storage tank at least 300mm above collectors Yes/No
If ‘No’ – what provisions are to be made to prevent reverse thermosiphon?
Is the gradient between collectors and storage tank connections at least 1:20?
Is the insulation on these pipes at least 25mm thick?
Connection between storage tank and solid fuel heater (where appropriate):
Is a wet back or boiler planned for boost heating?
Will the heating unit be a cooker, room heater, or independent boiler?
Is the gradient between the boiler and the tank up hill all the way so that air
bubbles escape into the tank?
Is a heat trap fitted to prevent reverse thermosiphon flow?
Is a drain valve fitted at the lowest point?
Are there any valves installed on the flow and return lines between the boiler
and the storage tank in contravention of AS NZS 3500?
Frost protection
Is the district frost prone, and, if so, what method of frost protection is planned?
Roof
Type of roofing material: Tiles Steel Other
Orientation of roof on which collectors/unit will be mounted (circle below or azimuth):
North Northeast East Southeast South Southwest West Northwest
Pitch of roof....................degrees
Will a mounting frame be required? Yes/No
Will any additional supports be required? Yes/No
Details? Yes/No
Work to be undertaken by property owner or other trades............................................
.......................................................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
Will any repairs or restoration be required to the roof prior to the installation of the
system?
What roof penetrations will be required?
What method of fixing to the roof will be used?
What flashings are planned?
If rainwater is being collected, are non-lead flashings being used?
Domestic Hot water

Will a balance feed tank, cold water supply connection on head tank or other
provision need to be made where cold water supply is at different pressure to the hot
water pressure?
Details............................................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
If a gravity-feed tank, do the hot delivery pipes slope up to the tank all the way from
the hot water outlets so that air can escape?
Is the hot water delivery pipe 20mm in diameter? Yes/No
If not what provision will be made to ensure adequate supply?
Are the hot water pipes insulated with at least 12mm think insulation?
Is a tempering valve to be installed?
Installation
Labour............................................................................................................................
Travel.............................................................................................................................
Crane hire......................................................................................................................
Materials
Is a Building Consent to be obtained by installer or owner?
Items or possible contingencies not listed above...........................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
Materials $
Installation $
Building Consent (to be obtained by installer) $
Additions to bring the installation to compliance standard:
List: Supply and installation of tempering valve $
Supply and installation of pressure limiting valve at the main meter $
Supply and installation of additional insulation on hot water pipes $
Other $
Subtotal $
GST $
Total $
Conditions (add any additional comments or information, access, removal of
trees/vegetation, etc.)
Date of installation..........................................................................................................
Warranty details..............................................................................................................
Warranty exclusions.......................................................................................................
Payment details:
Name of supplier.......................................Signature of Supplier....................................
Date...........................................................
Name of installer.......................................Signature of Installer.....................................
Date...........................................................
Name of customer....................................Signature of Customer..................................
Date...........................................................
Section 6.1 questions

1. Why is it important to ask a prospective customer a number of questions
before advising on installation of a solar water heater?
2. Why is it often a good idea to speak to more than one member of a household
in order to get a better understanding of hot water usage?
3. Describe situations where a solar water heater would be an inappropriate form
of water heating.
4. Regardless of whether a hot water system is a solar system or not, some
efficiency in system and installation design can avoid wasting water and wasting hot
water. Explain.
5. Suppose that you determine that a family will use about 220 litres of hot water
a day. What size solar hot water storage system would you recommend? Why will it
depend on where in Australia or New Zealand the installation is to be undertaken?
6. What is meant by the ‘efficiency’ of solar collectors? How does this affect the
number of collectors in an installation?
7. Some manufacturers make more than one type of solar collector. How might
two different flat plate collectors be made (constructed) so that they have differing
efficiencies, but still have the same surface area?
8. How could the use of a simple timer make a heat pump water heater more
efficient?
9. What is meant by a retrofit solar hot water installation?
10. Why is a standard mains pressure gas storage hot water unit not suitable to
be retrofitted as a solar system using the storage tank as the only hot water store in
the system?
11. Rheem has a system using a 270-litre gas storage tank as the only water store
as part of a solar system. How does this system differ from the normal gas storage
system with solar connected directly to the storage tank?
12. Explain how the temperature differential controller works in a pump circulation
solar hot water system.
13. Why is a ring-main installed in buildings such as motels, large office buildings
and hospitals?
14. Why is the minimum temperature setting for hot water systems 60ºC?
15. If you were about to install a mains pressure hot water system in a district with
very hard water, how would you decide what protective anode to install?
16. If a plastic rainwater tank is found to have acidic water, what might you expect
the pH to be? What might you add to the water to make the water less acidic? What
would be the pH of the water if it was neither acidic nor alkaline? (Refer to Chapter 5
for details.)
17. What is the difference between a quotation and a contract?
6.2 The installation

6.2.1 Preparation for installation
Installation can start once the installer has a completed check list and is satisfied that
the installation:
• is appropriate for the site
• meets the owner’s requirements
• will meet all relevant standards
• has any council permits that are required
• quotation has been accepted.
With all of these in place, the installation proceeds. Refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Section
6 – Installation of Solar Water Heaters).
The installer who regularly installs just one brand and one type of solar hot water
system will know exactly what materials he/she requires and will usually have all of
the required materials in the installation vehicle.
For the installer who does an occasional solar hot water installation, time spent in
planning the installation before setting off is time well spent. Some installers make a
start on the job only to discover that they need a fitting or tool that they don’t have
with them. They jump in their truck and fetch what they need and are into it again
until the next item that they don’t have has to be collected. At the end of the day the
installer is exhausted having had a busy day, but 10 to 20 minutes of planning at the
beginning of the day may have saved an hour or two of running around.
For a first solar installation, an installer will find that regardless of how carefully
he/she has prepared, there will be some item/s that have been overlooked. A good
way to avoid this for the next installation is to take the time to make a list of what was
needed the first time around, and before the second installation, refer to the list and
make sure you have everything before starting. Everyone thinks that they will
remember, but they usually don’t, so a list written down straight away is the only way
to go.
Essentials
• a site visit prior to carrying out the installation
• careful planning prior to carrying out the installation.
Building consent
Prior to installation the installer should sight the Building Consent to ensure that it is
valid and also to check if any conditions have been imposed by the consenting
authority.
In New Zealand it is illegal for an installer (who must be, or be under the supervision,
of a Craftsman Plumber) to undertake plumbing work without a valid Building
Consent. If the installer is a subcontractor the installer should assure themselves that
the Building Consent, which will have been obtained by the principal contractor,
covers the installation of the solar system.
In New Zealand all open loop split systems and thermosiphon systems will require a
Building Consent to be issued prior to installation. The only system not requiring a
Building Consent is that of a closed loop split system where the collector weighs less
than 20kg/m2. For such an application the existing tank will be replaced by a new
tank but with a heat exchanger. This can be done without a Building Consent as it is
‘replacing like for like’. The piping carrying the heat transfer fluid from the collector to
the tank and return does not involve potable water and so does not require a
consent.
Risk assessment
Some installing companies require a written risk assessment or safety audit to be
carried out prior to starting any work.
The purpose of the analysis is to force the installer to take the time to inspect the job
and ask ‘What are the likely hazards with this particular job?’ At the same time as
undertaking this risk assessment, it is usual to plan how the job can be undertaken
safely.
Installers should know and work according to relevant requirements for lifting and
working at heights.
6.2.2 Getting collectors and tank onto a roof
6.2.2.1 Close coupled, in-ceiling or pump-circulated systems
Prior to putting anything on the roof, it is important that a check of the roof should be
made to ensure that the roof is strong enough to carry the weight that is to be put on
it. (Refer to Section 6.2.3 on the strengthening requirements and some acceptable
methods of strengthening roof structures.)
As most solar systems (collectors or collectors and tank) are roof-mounted, a
decision has to be made as to how to get them onto the roof. Work this out before
starting, not once you have arrived on site.
Many regular installers are equipped with a small crane to lift the roof components up
quickly and safely. Some suppliers will deliver the unit to the site and onto the roof,
leaving the actual installation to somebody else: the so-called ‘plonk on’ option.
Some suppliers will provide equipment on loan to enable the purchaser to get the
system onto the roof.
The storage tank may be too heavy
for two people to lift it straight onto
the roof so with rope and pulleys it is
hauled onto the roof.
This technique was slow and more
likely to result in damage to the unit
and injury to the installers than the
more professional use of a crane or
other specialised lifting equipment.
Photos Andrew Blair
Figure 6.2.1 – Getting the solar storage

tank onto the roof
Before starting the installation, make sure that you have all the bits and that nothing
is missing.
Make sure that all the other materials

(copper tube, clips, valves, insulation) and
specialised tools and equipment (drum and
hose for anti-freeze fluid) are on hand.
Chasing them during an installation can be
the difference between getting the job
completely finished in the day, and not.
Figure 6.2.2 – Ensure that all equipment is

available
Securing tanks and collectors on roofs
Manufacturers’ instructions should be carefully followed. While one manufacturer’s
installation instructions will be similar to another, they will probably not be identical.
Check them before starting.
In New Zealand, refer to Acceptable Solution G12/AS2 of Clause G12 of the Building
Code, which provides several acceptable methods for securing tanks and collectors
on roofs.
Gravity is the main force that causes solar water heaters to stay on roofs that have a
slope between 10º and 50º. The storage tank of a close coupled system is heavy,
and when full of water is even heavier, so the job of the supporting straps is to
prevent the tank slipping down the roof, but not hold it down onto the roof. Gravity will
do that. The tank should be located over roof supporting framework underneath to
carry the weight of the tank and the water it contains.
Collectors also tend to just sit on roofs. Refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Section 6.5). On a
tile roof the collectors sit on the roof and the supporting frame and straps prevent the
collectors from sliding down the roof, and reduce the likelihood of the collectors
blowing away. On a steel roof it is possible to secure the collectors to the roofing
material so that any movement is prevented.
In seismic areas such as New Zealand the need for seismic resistance to system
movement down the roof or over turning is very important.
The position of the storage tank (for a close coupled system) will determine the
position of the collectors. The collectors should be positioned so that the tank, when
installed, is as well supported by roof rafters as possible. This will probably mean
evenly spanning at least two rafters or trusses.
The galvanised steel angle acting as a bearer is attached to the roof screws to
prevent the collectors sliding off the roof. In New Zealand there must be a 25mm gap
between the bearer and the top of the corrugations on corrugated metal cladding.
The level is used to ensure that the collectors slope slightly up hill to the hot water
outlet so that any bubbles of air can escape, avoiding an air lock developing.
The collectors are then sat on the

roof with the bottom edge
supported by the angle and are
secured to the angle.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.2.3 – Ensuring proper angling of collectors
Tilting of collectors
Because air bubbles are formed in water when it is heated, the collectors are tilted
very slightly so that the outlet
side of the collectors is higher
than the opposite side. This
tilting off horizontal may only be
about 10mm per collector, just
sufficient to allow the air to
escape up the pipe to the
storage tank. This applies
regardless of whether the
collectors have the pipes at the
same end or opposite ends. The
hot pipe outlet must be the
highest point of the collectors.
25mm rise
(Scale of rise on diagram has been
emphasised)
Figure 6.2.4 – Ensuring 25mm rise for collectors
The collectors without

water in them are
covered in order to
prevent damage from
overheating during
installation
Photo: Courtesy Rheem
Australia
Figure 6.2.5 – Placing collectors on a roof

For flat roofs and very steep roofs it is necessary to use frames to support and
secure the tank and collectors. Where frames are required they are available from
manufacturers, or can be specially fabricated. Frames may be subject to specific
design as a condition of a Building Consent.
These collectors are part of a pump-

circulated system. The roof faces
south. A fabricated frame supports
the collectors. The hot water storage
tank is 400 litres capacity located at
ground level. The house is two
storeys. Cold water enters at the
bottom, far side of the collectors.
Hot water outlet and temperature

sensor
Sensor wire in conduit penetrates

roof
Hot water pipe from collectors

passes through roof flashing and
down to the hot water storage tank
Frost dump valve on bottom of collectors (one each side) to provide protection in the event of the
pump circulation protection failing, due to power failure.
Figure 6.2.6 – Use of frames to mount collectors on a roof

It is desirable not to use timber on top of roofs. In time, timber will rot and it will result
in roof corrosion by retaining moisture. The use of treated/preserved pine is most
undesirable because of its corrosive effects on metals – roofs, screws, bolts, nails –
even if they are galvanised.
Attaching the storage tank (close coupled systems)

Once the collectors are positioned, the storage tank is placed in position above the
collectors, with the supporting straps loosely attached to the tank. The final position
of the tank is determined by the pipes that connect it to the collectors. The
connecting pipes are put in place. The storage tank is jiggled sideways and up and
down the roof until the connecting pipes are able to be connected without the joints
being stressed. Do not tighten the joints at this stage. The straps that hold the tank in
position are then moved to the most suitable location on the tank.
On a steel roof the straps are secured with roofing screws to purlins, or if close to the
ridge, up and under the ridge capping. Long screws are desirable and if possible they
should penetrate right through the roofing purlins or battens and into the rafters or
trusses beneath. The roofing steel itself provides security of attachment as the head
of the roofing screws are located more by the hole in the roofing steel than anything
else.
On tile roofs, tiles are slid to one side in order that the tank supporting straps are able
to be attached to the rafters or trusses underneath, not just to tile battens, which are
not particularly secure. Several wood screws or bolts are suitable.
With both tile and steel roofs it is important that the tank supporting straps are tight at
this stage. When the tank is filled with water it must be these straps, and not the
fittings attached to the collectors, that prevent the tank from moving down the roof.
At this stage tighten the connections between collectors for multiple collector
installations, and the pipe connections between the tank and collectors.
When compared with the section 6.2.4 (Thermosiphon remote storage systems)
close coupled solar hot water systems are easy to install. They are supplied with all
the required fittings. Normal 20mm or 15mm copper tube and fittings are all that is
required. Low-profile horizontal tanks connected straight to the collectors have
become the distinctive and most recognisable type of solar hot water system in
Australia.
Although preceded by in-ceiling storage tanks, close coupled systems overcame
many of the problems associated with remote in-ceiling storage tanks, including the
need for a safe tray. On tile roofs heavy plastic sheet or aluminium sheet is laid under
the hot water storage tank so that if the weight does crack a tile, leakage into the roof
space does not occur.
6.2.3 Strengthening existing roof structure
Installing a thermosiphon system onto an existing roof where the design parameters
are unknown is the biggest concern of Building Consent authorities. It will generally
be difficult to locate where trusses are, and their ability to hold up what could be
around 400kg of weight is at best speculative.
In New Zealand an acceptable method of strengthening such roof structure is
provided in G12/AS2 of Clause G12 of the New Zealand Building Code. This can be
found at www.solartraining.org.au.
6.2.4 Thermosiphon remote storage systems
Also refer to Section 3.6.
6.2.4.1 Relative heights of collectors and storage tank

The slope of the pipes between the collectors and the storage tank should not be
less than 1:20. A steeper slope (perhaps 1:10, or 1:5) will result in better circulation.
The pipes should slope uphill all the way from the collectors to the storage tank. This
allows any air bubbles that form when water is heated to escape into the tank and out
the vent.
If the collectors are at much the same height as the storage tank (perhaps due to
poor installation), there will be very little thermosiphon effect and therefore poor
heating effect.
Good circulation
The contents of the storage tank are heated many times during a sunny day – 400
litres of water can attain 63° C by the end of the day.
Hot water
storage tank
Collector well below tank

(>300mm) to produce
strong thermosiphon flow
Hot water outlet

pipe has a much
greater rise than
1:20
Solar collector
Cold pipe run
Hot pipe run
Figure 6.2.7 – Good thermosiphon circulation
Poor circulation
Hot water
storage
tank Collector is just below tank
(<300mm) therefore
thermosiphon flow is weak
and the system is in
Connecting pipes danger of losing heat at
night through reverse
thermosiphon
Cold pipe run

Solar
collector
Hot pipe run
Figure 6.2.8 – Poor thermosiphon circulation

Only a third of the tank passes through the collectors during the day. There are 130
litres of water at 75oC and 270 litres of water at 15oC by the end of the day.
Reverse circulation (hot water goes to collectors from the storage tank)
At night the heated water in the tank will
flow out to the collector and cool down.
The cooled water will return to the tank.
If the collectors are at about the same level as the tank,

thermosiphon flow will be very slow.
Hot water
storage tank Connecting pipes
Solar
collector
Cold pipe run
Hot pipe run
Figure 6.2.9 – Reverse circulation

If collectors are installed at the same level as the storage tank (as in the diagram
above) circulation of the water will be very slow. At night, heat will be radiated and
conducted out through the glass. The water in the collectors will cool. Being cold, the
water has become denser (heavier) and flows back to the storage tank through the
lower pipe. With more hot water taking the place of the cooled water in the collectors,
the water in the tank slowly cools down.
The storage tank must be higher than the collectors. This may be easier said than
done. A lot of houses have low pitched roofs. This makes it difficult or even
impossible to place the hot water storage tank higher than the collectors.
Rule of Thumb 6.1 – Height of tanks above collectors

The top of the collectors need to be at least 300mm lower than the bottom
connection of the hot water storage tank.
Even if the storage tank is put on a platform it is often just not possible to have the
top of the collectors on the roof lower than the bottom outlet of the storage tank.
6.2.4.2 Solutions to the problem of collectors being too high

On-ground collectors
An easy way around the problem is to have the tank in the ceiling space and the
collectors on the ground or mounted on a wall. Some people do this but the collectors
are more likely to be damaged by people, mowers, etc. They are also likely to be
shaded by plants or other things at ground level. There is a lot more expense
involved with the plumbing connections and mountings. Many people do not like the
appearance of the collectors at ground level.
Figure 6.2.10 – Ground-mounted collectors

Solar water heating manufacturers have worked around this problem through various
means.
Anti-reverse thermosiphon
If the storage tank and the collectors are on much the same level, with the tank only
slightly higher than the collector, an anti-reverse thermosiphon valve can be used.
This is a highly sensitive one-way valve that will let water through it in one direction
only. An ordinary one-way valve (non-return valve) requires more force to operate
than the thermosiphon flow can provide and so a normal valve is not suitable.
Reverse circulation can be prevented with an ‘anti-reverse

circulation’ valve
Hot water
storage tank
Connecting
pipes
Solar collector
Figure 6.2.11 – Use of anti-reverse thermosiphon valve
Photos: Andrew Blair; valves from Solar Mio Albury
Figure 6.2.12 – Anti-reverse siphon valves

The anti reverse siphon valve acts as an
extremely sensitive non-return valve
designed specifically for remote
thermosiphon flow solar hot water
systems.
The plastic ball (right) just floats on
water so it takes very little force to
dislodge it, allowing water to flow
through the valve from left to right as shown by the arrow on the plastic tape. If water
tries to flow backwards (right to left) the ball seals preventing flow.
Anti-reverse flow storage tank
Cold return
connection
BEASLEY
Water System
Ensure a minimum
slope of 1:20
Hot flow
connection
At night the water in the collector is cold and

below the level of the heated water in the tank.
This prevents the hot water flowing back into
the collectors.
Figure 6.2.13 – Reverse flow prevention

The other method is rather clever. If the bottom outlet (cold water to the collectors)
can be raised to the top of the cylinder it should be possible to have the top of the
collector 300mm below the bottom outlet. Rinnai Beasley manufactures a tank where
the hot and cold water connections are made to be at the same level near the top of
the tank. The cold water to the collectors is taken from the bottom of the tank, travels
up a pipe inside the tank and then out at the same height as the hot connection
bringing hot water in from the collectors.
The flow and return pipes inside a Rinnai Beasley gravity feed copper storage tank.
The right hand pipe draws
water from the bottom of the
tank, taking it to the
collectors. The left pipe
brings in hot water from the
solar collectors.
Notice both pipes are open
at the top, above the water
level in the tank, to allow air
bubbles to escape.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.2.14 – Internal tank

connections to prevent reverse
flow
At the bottom of the tank a triangular diffuser can be seen. Cold water entering the
tank, as hot is drawn off, is spread across the tank gently so as not to disturb the
stratification of hot and cold water layers within the tank.
At night, the sun stops shining and the water stops circulating. The top of both inlet
and outlet connections inside the tank are hot, heated by the water in the tank
surrounding the pipes. In the collector the water cools. The cooler water – being
denser – stays below the warm water. Both pipes have cool water at the bottom of
them and hot water at the top, so no thermosiphon circulation occurs. Next day when
the sun comes out, the hot water rises from the collector into the storage tank, pulling
cooler water from the bottom of the tank to take its place.
Tall versus squat collectors
If the collectors can be made so that they are not so tall, then there is less difficulty in
having the top of them lower than the storage tank connections. Some manufacturers
make wide, low collectors, so that the top is lower than the bottom outlet of the
storage tank. The squat collectors are usually a little more expensive than the
equivalent tall collectors. There are few of them made and they require more riser
pipes.
Photos: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.2.15 – Squat versus tall collectors

Both these systems are retrofits to existing in-ceiling hot water storage tanks. The left
photograph shows squat collectors, lower than the storage tank, and right a single
2m tall collector.
6.2.4.3 Rules for pipework in remote systems

Slope of connecting pipes
Connecting pipes should have a

20 1:20 slope or steeper (1:10), a
rise of one metre for a 20-metre
horizontal run
Hot water
storage
1
Connecting pipes
Cold pipe run

Solar collector
Hot pipe run
Figure 6.2.16 – Correct slope for connecting pipes

The slope of the pipes between the collectors and the storage tank should not be
less than 1:20. A steeper slope (perhaps 1:10, or 1:5) will result in better circulation.
The pipes should slope uphill all the way from the collectors to the storage tank. If the
length of pipe exceeds perhaps six metres and the slope is only 1:20, then it is
advisable to increase the pipe diameter.
While the pipe must have an overall or average gradient of more than 1:20, the slope
of the pipe can vary over its length. It can run along nearly horizontal (level), provided
it does have a slight slope up to the tank, and then rise vertically upwards at the tank.
If the near horizontal sections are near the ceiling, it makes it easier for people to
move about in the roof space.
Hot water
storage tank
Overall gradient is still 1:20 or steeper.
Connecting pipes
Solar collector
Figure 6.2.17 – Overall gradient when horizontal sections of pipe are used
Connection of piping to the collectors

In a thermosiphon system, the power or the force to generate the circulation comes
from the collectors themselves. The water rises up the collectors and into the top
header pipe as it is heated. For this reason the hot water will leave from either side of
the collectors without pipe friction in the top and bottom headers affecting the
circulation very much.
A thermosiphon system with three or more collectors should have the hot and cold
pipes entering at opposite ends of the bank of collectors to produce a thermosiphon
flow evenly distributed through each collector.
The bank of collectors should be skewed to promote the thermosiphon flow and to
allow air bubbles to escape.
Hot water
storage
Hot water tank
storage
tank
Connecting Pipes
Up to five collectors can be connected together in one bank.
Collectors
Figure 6.2.18 – Thermosiphon system with three or more collectors

A pump-circulated system or a system with many collectors (more than three) must
have the water entering and leaving at opposite ends. This ensures an even flow
across the surface of all the collectors. For systems with more than five or six
collectors, the collectors should be arranged in banks of five or six and the pump-
circulated water should go through each of the banks in parallel. Consult
manufacturers for larger systems.
6.2.5 Installation of the in-ceiling tank
Head tank attached to gravity feed hot

water storage tank
Head tank overflow runs into the circular
plastic safe tray
Isolating valve on cold water supply to

head tank
Drain from safe tray
Circular plastic safe tray

Insulated hot water pipe
Photo: Jenniy Gregory
Figure 6.2.19 – Gravity feed storage tank on plastic safe tray

This picture shows a typical installation of an in-ceiling tank that’s part of a remote
thermosiphon system. Notice that a stand has been built to support this tank so that it
is higher than the collectors on the outside of the roof. Many modern houses do not
have sufficient internal roof space for a storage tank. Refer to AS NZS 3500.4
(Section 5.5).
Gravity feed in-ceiling storage tanks are made of copper. Copper is suited to the high
temperatures that are commonly experienced by solar hot water systems. The
copper tank is surrounded by insulation and then covered by an outer case of
galvanised or zincalume steel sheet.
Although gravity feed hot water storage tanks come in a variety of standard sizes, it
is possible to have tanks specially made to order.
The connection of a solid fuel heater, or cooker, is common as a method of boosting
hot water temperatures in winter. Firewood is a renewable fuel source and is carbon
dioxide neutral. It does not contribute to increased levels of atmospheric carbon
dioxide when new trees are grown to replace the wood used as fuel.
6.2.5.1 Connecting pipework – in-ceiling installations
Copper pipes are used in most systems to connect the collectors to the storage tank.
Because of the high water temperatures plastic pipes cannot be used.
Pipe friction
When a liquid flows through pipes there is a resistance to its movement. This
resistance is called ‘pipe friction’. The faster the liquid flows, the higher is the friction
force resisting its movement. In solar hot water systems with thermosiphon flow, this
pipe friction can be very significant in determining the rate of flow through the pipes,
so it is important to keep the pipe friction low.
If pipe friction is high, the water does not move quickly between the collectors and
the storage tank. This means that the water in the tank will perhaps be circulated only
once, or even less, during the day. It is desirable to circulate the water between the
collectors and storage tank several times each day, if possible. This will evenly heat
all the water in the tank, not just some of it, to the highest possible temperature. If the
circulation of water is too slow, the water in the collectors gets very hot. If the inside
of the collectors gets hot, a lot of heat is lost through the glass into the atmosphere,
due to the high difference in temperature on each side of the glass. This is heat that
should have been transferred to the water in the storage tank.
Factors that increase pipe friction, and reduce the rate of thermosiphon flow:
• Long lengths of pipe between the collectors and the hot water storage tank.
The shorter the better, and also the cheaper.
• The smaller the diameter of the pipes, the slower will be the movement of
water through them.
• Generally speaking, because of the pipe friction, pipes of less than 25mm
diameter should not be used on a typical thermosiphon solar hot water system
with 4m2 of collector and a 300 litre (or larger) storage tank. If the distance to
the storage tank is significant, or the slope of the pipes up to the storage tank is
very slight, then 32mm or even 40mm copper tube should be used. Some
manufacturers allow 20mm, provided the connecting pipes are not too long,
there is a good slope, and perhaps only one collector.
• The difference in height between the collectors and the storage tank. If the
collectors are only just below the storage tank, circulation will be slow. If there
is a significant height difference there will be better circulation.
• The smaller the difference in temperature, the slower the rate of flow.
Conversely, with higher temperature differences between water flowing to the
collectors and water flowing from the collectors, the better the flow.
It is common for cookers connected to hot water tanks to have only 20mm or, in
some cases, 15mm copper tube and they perform well. With the tank in the ceiling
the height difference is much greater than for solar collectors on the roof, and with
high temperature difference between hot and cold, good thermosiphon is guaranteed.
Expansion and contraction
If the run of pipe from the collectors to the storage tank is a long one, it is a good idea
to have at least one 90° bend in the pipeline near the storage cylinder to
accommodate the expansion and contraction in the pipe, rather than having a long
straight pipe running directly onto the nipple on the side of the storage tank. Refer to
AS NZS 3500.4 (Table 4.7 – Change in length of copper pipes).
Insulation of pipework
Because there will be hot water in the pipes for a long time each day, the pipes have
the potential to lose a lot of heat from their surface to the atmosphere. For this
reason it is important that the pipes be well insulated. The normal plastic lagging on
hot water pipes is not adequate and the insulation should be at least 20mm – but
preferably 25mm thick in most of Australia, and up to 38mm thick in New Zealand
and cooler regions of Australia. The 25mm pipe plus 25mm thick insulation becomes
75mm in diameter. This is particularly important on the hot pipe from the collectors to
the storage tank. This pipe will have hot water from the storage tank in it nearly all
the time and has the greatest potential to lose the most heat. If heat is lost from this
pipe reverse thermosiphon flow will occur, cooling water in the tank.
Insulation should be UV- and weather-resistant.
Normal internal building insulation will not be
adequate for external use as it will deteriorate
over time when exposed to UV or the weather.
The insulation should be foil-wrapped to protect
the actual insulation material.
Refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Sections 8.2 and 8.3)
and PIC Technical Solutions1 for information and
specifications for pipe insulation. (Note that this
includes insulation on part of the cold water supply
– refer 8.2.2(a).)
Heat loss from pipes is significant so adequate
insulation is essential.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.2.20 – Pipe insulation
Selection of pipes – all systems

Many new houses are plumbed with plastic pipes. It is usual for a temperature
limitation of 70°C to apply to plastic pipes. As solid fuel–heated water and solar
heated water comes from an ‘uncontrolled heat source’, it is often hotter than 70°C.
In this case the house plumbing should be done in copper tube, or a tempering valve
(thermal mixing valve) should be installed if plastic pipe is used. The hot water pipe
leading to the tempering valve should be copper. Although plastic pipe is said not to
need added insulation, there will be significant heat loss from it if it is not insulated.
Refer to Standard AS NZS 3500.4 for information on pipe materials and limitations.
Pipe support
The connecting pipes must be well supported in the ceiling space. People crawling
around in the ceiling space near hot water storage tanks may have to climb over the
pipes to get past the tank. If piping is located at or below the ceiling rafters it is less
likely to be damaged than piping running across the middle of the ceiling space.
Plenty of support of the piping is recommended. This will avoid straining the entry
points on the hot water storage tank.
1
www.pic.vic.gov.au/resources/documents/Thermal_insulation_of_heated_water_pipework.pdf
Safe tray (spill tray)

Hot water storage tanks inside buildings must be placed on a tray so that if, or
perhaps when, the tank leaks the water is caught and can be drained away and does
not cause damage by flooding the inside of the building. The only exception to this
rule is where the unit is visible (not in a cupboard, etc.) and it is on or above an
impervious floor with a floor waste.
Safe trays have long been used for in-ceiling installations. The trays may be
galvanised or zincalume sheet steel, or moulded plastic. A drain pipe is connected to
the tray and carries the water to the outside of the roof space. The discharge point
must be visible, so that it when it is dripping it can be seen. Then something can be
done about fixing the cause of the overflow. It may be a leaking tank, but far more
likely it will be a float valve requiring attention. Refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Section 5.4).
Sheet metal trays must have hardwood timber battens (not pine or treated pine) in
the safe tray to support the hot water storage tank. Air spaces between the hardwood
timber battens permit any water to dry out, whereas a tank sitting flat on the tray may
never dry out and consequent corrosion would cause the safe tray to quickly rust
through and finally leak.
Plastic safe trays have
moulded ribs that
support the tank up off
the bottom of the tray,
keeping the tank up out
of any overflow water.
The photo (right) shows
a plastic safe tray and
the drain line fitting on
the side of it, sitting on
top of the hot water tank
ready for dispatch.
The gravity feed hot
water storage tank has
a head tank attached.
The head tank has its
own overflow pipe which
discharges down into
the safe tray.
The tank has an electric
heating element and the
black electrical junction
box is mounted on the
side of the outer case.
Figure 6.2.21 – Safe (spill) tray sitting on an in-ceiling tank prior to despatch
Many mains pressure storage tank installations have been undertaken inside
buildings without safe trays, and with tanks sitting on concrete slab floors it is often
difficult to devise a way of installing a drain from a tank that is not located near the
edge of a building.
Terminator
This cold water shut
off valve is a
recently developed
device that sits in a
safe tray. If water
starts to fill the safe
tray the cold water
supply to the hot
water cylinder is cut
off. For a storage
tank deep within a
house, this avoids
the need for a safe
waste drain pipe
from the safe tray.
Photo: Terminator website (www.terminator.com.au)
Figure 6.2.22 – TerminatorTM water shut-off valve

Once water is in the tray, the shut off valve isolates the cold supply indicating a
problem.
The cold water shut off valve must sit on the base of the safe tray and be upstream of
any expansion control valve. If there is no expansion valve fitted, it must be upstream
of any non-return valve.
On-roof storage tanks or external storage tanks overcome the need for a safe tray
because they are not inside the building where leakage would cause damage.
With all of these issues to be understood, it is easy to see why in-ceiling tanks
became less popular when the much more straightforward close coupled systems
took over.
6.2.6 Pump circulation system (split system)
The use of a pump and pump controller requires that both the pump and the sensors
are correctly installed. Some manufacturers have the circulating pump and its
controller already attached to the side of the ground-mounted storage tank. There are
a few general principles to be known when installing a pump-circulation solar system:
• The pump should be mounted where possible with the discharge upwards,
making it easier for air to escape from inside the pump.
• The pump should be on the flow line to the collectors so that it pushes the
water through the collectors, not on the return line where it would be pulling
(sucking) the water from the collectors. On the return line it would be likely to
cavitate causing noise and damaging the pump.
• The rate of circulation should not be too high, otherwise there will be excessive
turbulence (stirring up of the hot and cold layers of water) within the storage
tank. This reduces the efficiency of the solar collectors.
• Flow rate has a significant effect on system efficiency and installers should be
aware of the characteristics of the pumps they are using and the situations in
which they are being used.
• The wire to the sensor in the collector header should be covered to protect it
from physical damage and damage from UV light where it is exposed. Flexible
electrical conduit serves this purpose well.
• The ‘hot’ sensor should be situated at the hottest water in the collectors and
the ‘cold’ sensor at the bottom of the storage tank, on or near the cold supply
line.
The air eliminator has been installed (left) and
the ‘hot’ sensor is being installed into the pocket
that is part of the fitting and connection at the
top of this collector.
The sensor installed in a pocket in the collector
header detects when the water in the header is
hot and switches on the circulating pump.
The cable is wrapped round a well-insulated
15mm copper tube.
Photograph: Dux Hot Water Systems
Figure 6.2.23 – Installation of ‘hot’ sensor

In this installation (right) hard drawn
copper tube would have made a far
neater job and the sensor cable – if
installed in a conduit – would have
been well protected from the effect
of UV light on the plastic insulating
sheath of the cable. The lack of a
neat and tidy pipe layout and a lack
of tie down to the roof make this a
very untidy job.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.2.24 – Sensor on hot water

pipe from collector
Hot water storage tank connections
Some mains pressure hot water storage tanks are fitted with special connections
(nipples) that are suitable for solar operation. It is best if the cold water to the
collectors is taken off from the bottom of the storage tank and the heated water from
the collectors is returned halfway or two-thirds of the way up the tank. The location of
connections varies between manufacturers and is also dependent on the age of the
tank, as different models are replaced by other models on the market.
Other tanks have two sets of connections at the bottom of the tank. One set can be
used for cold water going to the collectors while the other is used for the hot water
returning from the collectors.
Some older tanks have only two connections: one at the bottom for cold water in and
one at the top for hot water out. For these tanks a five-way connector or the
fabricated connector is used. Both connectors are shown in Chapter 5.
The problem with introducing hot water into the bottom of the storage tank is that it
takes a long time for the solar heated water to reach the top of the tank; there is
significant turbulence as it rises up through the water in the tank.
A mains pressure gas/solar storage system

Rheem produces a mains pressure gas storage solar hot water system. It is available
in three sizes from 270 litres to 410 litres capacity. Circulation of the water through
the solar collectors is by the use of a circulating pump.
Unlike other gas mains pressure storage systems, this system does not immediately
reheat the water whenever hot water is drawn off. Rather it heats the water in the
tank once a day in the early evening after all possible solar heating has been
completed for the day. If the water is already hot enough, the gas does not come on.
It has a timer and an electronic ignition system.
6.3 Retrofitting to existing hot water systems

Existing gas storage system
As mentioned earlier, the use of a gas storage hot water tank is possible as a boost
system where solar is used as a pre-heater. In an installation of this type, the solar
pre-heater will require a storage tank of its own. It might be:
• a close coupled system on the roof
• an in-ceiling storage tank, perhaps with a main pressure coil
• a pump circulated ground-mounted system.
It has the disadvantage of being costly since two hot water systems are required –
the solar system including the storage tank, and the gas storage system. This makes
for an expensive installation. In addition, there will be heat lost from the solar storage
tank before it goes into the gas unit and then further heat will be lost from the gas
storage tank.
Existing instantaneous/continuous supply gas system
A solar hot water system must have hot water storage. An instantaneous gas system
offers no storage, so like the gas storage system a complete solar system is required
to pre-heat water feeding the instantaneous gas unit.
Existing electric mains pressure off-peak hot water storage system
An existing mains pressure storage tank lends itself well to being converted to solar;
however, there is a great variety of models available. The storage tank needs to be
big enough and should be able to provide at least one day’s supply of hot water. A
tank of at least 250 litres would be required in most installations.
Single element
Nearly all single element mains pressure hot water storage tanks will have the
element at the bottom of the tank. Each night the element on an off-peak electricity
tariff will switch on and heat all the water in the tank. The thermostat will switch off
the heating element when the water temperature is up to the set temperature.
Adjustable thermostats can be set to any required temperature (usually 60ºC);
however, the factory setting of non-adjustable thermostats is usually quite high (70°C
or more). The high temperature of a non-adjustable thermostat compensates for the
loss of heat from the tank as the day goes by and also reduces the likelihood of
running out of hot water, but it is wasteful of energy.
The time of use of the hot water from such a tank becomes significant. If the hot
water is used at night the electricity will bring the entire contents of the tank up to
temperature. If the hot water is used in the morning or during the day, and it is a
sunny day, the solar input is likely to heat the water so that little or no night boosting
is required.
Some single element hot water services have the element situated near the centre of
the tank, so that the element heats only half the contents of the tank. The importance
of not using water in the evening is less significant, because half of the contents of
the tank can be drawn off before the heating element will start doing its job.
Modern smart controllers can be set to come on at any time of the day and allow the
boosting to occur to any set temperature. The advantage of these controllers is that
they can be adjusted to suit the specific hot water needs of the users. Many of the
smart controllers allow for multiple boosts throughout a day just prior to when hot
water is required.
Twin element
Twin element tanks have an element at the bottom of the tank and one near the top.
The one at the bottom switches on each night heating the contents of the tank. If all
the hot water is used up, the element at the top of the tank switches on to provide hot
water until the next time the bottom element heats up the water. The top element
thermostat is set to a lower temperature (60°C) than the thermostat for the bottom
element.
To have the top element only being able to heat the water makes good sense. If the
sun is heating the water, the only time that the water needs boost heating is when it
is not up to the set 60°C. Only a small quantity of water is heated, about 30 litres in
the top of the tank. Often, however, the top element will be on day tariff, so it will be
more expensive than night rate tariff, but of course it is heating far less water with
electricity and heat losses through the walls of the tank are less.
Existing off-peak electric gravity feed hot water storage system
Like the mains pressure tank, the position of the heating element is significant and
exactly the same principles apply.
Many gravity feed tanks have nipples for solar or solid fuel cookers or heaters to be
attached. If these nipples are not being used then the solar collectors can be
connected to them. If they are being used it is best not to connect the solar to the
same nipples. If stove and solar pipes are connected to the same nipples it is
common for heat from the stove to be lost in the solar collectors, so that the water in
the storage tank is never very hot.
It takes a bit of time but not is particularly difficult to fit additional nipples to a copper
tank.
Fitting additional solar or stove connection points (nipples) to a copper hot
water storage tank
It is always best to use a tank with factory-fitted connections. Sometimes this is not
possible, in which case additional connection points can be fitted to existing copper
tanks reasonably easily using the following techniques (It must be realised that this
would void any storage tank manufacturer's warranty):
1. Ensure that the tank is empty. If the tank can be tipped on its side it is a lot
easier to work on and saves time in the long run.
2. Cut holes about 150mm diameter in the outer steel casing of the tank, in the
positions where the new connections are to be fitted. Do not make the hole too
small.
3. Remove insulation from inside and then push rockwool or fibreglass insulation
in to the space. This prevents the tank insulation from burning or melting, and
also holds it in place, out of the way.
4. Flare a 200mm length of 25mm copper tube, with a long flare. Place the flared
end into the flaring block the wrong way round, and flatten the flare so that it
now forms a right angle.
5. Braze this flared end onto the side of the copper tank, inside the hole you
have made in the outer casing.
6. Push a long prick punch or narrow screwdriver inside the pipe making a hole
through the wall of the copper tank. Open this small hole up with a larger
screw driver or even a file, using a twisting motion until the hole is close to the
same diameter as the copper tube. Do not try and make it too large or you will
damage the silver brazed joint you have made. The hole will not have a
smooth edge. Bits of copper will not drop into the tank. It is possible to make
the hole (with a hole saw) before brazing the flared tube to the side of the
tank, but for a person working alone it is difficult to line up the hole and do the
silver brazing all at the same time.
7. Pack the remainder of the hole round the new nipple/pipe with fibreglass or
rock wool insulation between the outer casing and the copper tank.
8. From a piece of flat sheet steel cut a patch perhaps 200mm to 250mm in
diameter. In the middle of it drill a neat hole with a hole saw, the same
diameter as the piece of pipe that forms the new connection.
9. Place this over the new connection and the hole that you have made. Pop
rivet it to the outer steel casing.
10. Anneal the outer end of the new connection and fit a compression nut to it.
This will allow a compression elbow or union to be connected to it.
Note: Do not try to braze or weld additional nipples onto steel mains pressure
storage tanks. It will destroy the glass lining.
Do not connect steel glass lined mains pressure storage tanks directly to solid
fuel boilers even if they are open vented. The excessively high temperatures
will damage the glass lining.
Making and fitting new nipples to a copper hot water storage tank for coupling
it to solar collectors or a solid fuel boiler
Copper tube is inserted into

Copper tube to form the new the other side of the flaring
connection is flared with a block and hammered flat.
long flare.
Additional
insulation is
added around
the new
connection.
The new connection A hole is gently torn
is silver brazed onto in the side of the
the side of the copper storage tank with a
storage tank. long fine screwdriver
and then enlarged
with a bigger
screwdriver.
A piece of sheet
steel is slipped
over the new
connection and
pop riveted into
position. This
supports the new
connection.
Figure 6.3.1 – Modifications to existing tank for use with solar collectors or solid fuel boiler
Note: The above section illustrates some of the steps required to retrofit solar to a
copper hot water storage tank. Note that this sort of work would generally be done by
a specialist installer.
Adapting to existing fittings
It is possible where a hot water storage tank has only one set of connections
(nipples) to use that one set of nipples for solar and boiler connections. Rather than
adding extra connections to a tank, it is possible to make an adaptor. The adaptor
allows water to enter the hot water storage tank from the solar circuit separately from
the solid fuel boiler circuit. This technique is particularly useful for steel or stainless
steel storage tanks, which are often used for close coupled solar systems. The cold
water to the solar or the boiler can in some cases be taken off the cold water entry.
A threaded/compression elbow (20mm or 25mm) is used. A 10mm hole is drilled in

the elbow and a piece of 10mm tube fitted and then brazed to the fitting. Such a
small diameter tube will add significant pipe friction, so it is important to make it as
short as possible to minimise the friction. Fit it to the solid fuel boiler pipe (not the
solar) as this has the ability to provide more force for the circulation than the solar.
Because of the restriction to flow, this system should not be used for powerful boilers
(greater than about 3kW) and a vent pipe should be used, which will allow
unrestricted escape of steam if the water boils.
Brazed joint
10mm copper tube
Hot water entry from

boiler
Threaded/compression
brass fitting with internal
or external BSP thread
Compression nut
round 20mm or
25mm copper tube
Hot water entry from

collectors
Boil off vent pipe

20mm or 25mm
copper tube
10mm hot water

entry from boiler
Hot water storage tank

20mm or 25mm
hot water entry Hot water entry
from solar from boiler
collectors
Figure 6.3.2 – Fitting to an existing set of nipples

Five-way connector or adapter
Because it is not possible to install new nipples on a glass-lined steel mains pressure
tank without damaging it, it is common to use a five-way connector or to make an
adapter. Both are shown in Chapter 5. The adapter performs the same function as
the five-way connector but at a fraction of the cost. The five-way connector is not
required if the tank has suitable solar connection nipples on it, or if it is a tank (and
most are now) with right- and left-hand connections on opposite sides of the tank.
Cold water supply enters the five-way connector (or adapter) and into the storage
tank. The circulating pump to the collectors draws cold water out of the bottom of the
tank through the same connection. The hot water from the collectors passes into the
tank through the injection tube that is part of the five-way connector.
The cold sensor from the temperature differential controller is placed in the sensor
well of the five-way connector (see Chapter 5).
If using a fabricated adapter, the cold sensor is placed against the bottom of the inner
storage tank and is tucked in behind the tank insulation. A gland secures the sensor
cable where it passes through the outer steel case of the tank. Alternatively, the
sensor can be attached to the fabricated elbow as close as possible to the storage
tank, covered with insulation on the outside and taped in position. This way it senses
the water temperature within the adapter but because of the insulation is not
influenced by the surrounding air.
Installation of a ring main
In some large houses, hotels, motels, offices or factories, where the point of use is
some distance from the hot water store, it is quite common to install a ‘ring main’.
This is a hot water pipe that runs past each of the points of use. Water is pumped
round the ring main, so that whenever a tap is turned on the hot water is instantly
available. Some ring mains can work on a thermosiphon principle so that a pump is
not required.
The hot water to the ring main leaves from the hot outlet of the storage tank and the
cooler water returns via the cold inlet (supply). A ring main has the potential to lose
huge quantities of heat, even if the pipe of the ring main is insulated. But a ring main
does have the benefit of not wasting large quantities of water waiting for hot water to
arrive from some distant storage tank.
There are various options for the ring main with a circulating pump:
• If there is only one point of usage a significant distance from the hot water
storage tank, have a pump that is activated only when required and that draws
water along the hot pipe and returns it along the cold pipe. This way no water is
wasted waiting for the hot to come through, but there will be a delay until the
pump gets the hot water to its destination. The pump is located between the
hot and cold pipes at the point where it is being used – perhaps under a hand
basin or sink.
• If a ring main is installed, have it operating only when hot water is likely to be
required. Connect the circulating pump to a timer. This is not totally satisfactory
because there will be times when hot water is required but the timer has
switched the pump off.
• A thermostat can be connected to the ring main so that when the temperature
of the water in the ring main falls, the pump turns on. When hot water reaches
the thermostat, the circulating pump is switched off again.
With any of these options there is no escaping the fact that a ring main loses a lot of
heat and if connected to a solar water heating system, significant additional storage
capacity and collectors are required to compensate for heat losses. Heat losses can
be reduced if the entire ring main is well insulated with good insulation at least 15mm
to 20mm thick.
6.4 Mounting of tanks

Roof-mounted tanks
Close coupled solar hot water systems should be mounted according to the individual
manufacturers’ instructions. These instructions vary between brands so it is important
to check the instructions provided with the unit.
The same applies to specialised stands that provide for the mounting of tanks on flat
roofs or roofs that do not face the equator.
On tile roofs it is common to have a sheet of plastic or aluminium under the tank,
running back up the roof and under the next row of tiles. The sheet reduces the
likelihood of leakage into the roof space if a tile is cracked or if there is a build-up of
leaves behind the storage tank.
In-ceiling tank stands
The tank stand must be supported over walls and not on ceiling rafters or hanging
beams. It is common to build a stand out of timber and in most cases the stand will
be constructed on site by the installer.
Generally the higher the stand, the better, because:
• there will be an increase in pressure at the hot water outlets within the house
• the greater the difference in vertical height, the more the thermosiphon
circulation between collectors and tank is improved
• at least 300mm is recommended as the height difference between the bottom
connections on the tank and the top of the collectors, to prevent reverse
thermosiphon flow.
However, if the tank is pushed hard up against the roof it makes it difficult or
impossible to see into the head tank to make adjustments to the float valve.
6.4.1.1 Detailed steps for installing a gravity feed system
• Position the unit above the kitchen or as close as possible. This is to minimise
the heat loss to commonly used outlets.
• All main runs to outlets should be 20mm lagged copper tube. The pipes need
to be lagged to reduce heat loss.
• Fittings suitable to constant pressure must be used. This is particularly
important for the shower to operate correctly. Bear in mind that some fittings
only work with mains pressure (e.g. Flickmixers).
• If the installation is a new one it should be ordered with a direct cold water line
from the supply feed tank to the shower. A separate cold water feed tank is
also available from some manufacturers. This ensures equal mixing of hot and
cold water and solves temperature fluctuations at the shower. If it is not
practical to install a direct line, then a flow control valve should be connected to
the cold side of the shower water supply.
• All piping should be run through the ceiling cavity of the house. This ensures
maximum flow rate.
• Most dishwashers are compatible with constant pressure, while most fully
automatic washing machines are not. The manufacturer’s handbook should be
checked.
• The installation procedure must comply with local water authority requirements.
6.4.1.2 Replacement of existing tank

• For electric boosting, there may be the opportunity to replace the supply tariff
(e.g. new dimension Y6 choice can replace an old eight-hour tariff unit in
Queensland); however, the wiring may require updating.
• Existing piping should be compatible.
• If possible have a direct cold water line from the supply feed tank. If not
practical, then fit a flow control valve on the cold water supply to the shower.
• Check fittings to make sure they are compatible with constant pressure.
6.4.1.3 Installation procedures
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Figure 6.4.1 – Steps for installing tank in roof space
Step 1
After ascertaining the most suitable location for entry to the roof cavity, remove tiles
in the top section of the roof to expose three rafters and three tile battens
(approximately 1.2 x 1.2 metres).
Step 2
Saw tile battens at a 45º angle over the two outside rafters. Identify each tile batten
before removing for ease of replacement.
Figure 6.4.2 – Step 2: saw tile battens

Step 3
Saw through the middle rafter above the purlin at a 45º angle. From inside the ceiling
cavity, free the tile battens from the rafter to the ridge. This will enable the rafter to
swing aside for entry of the cylinder through the opening.
Figure 6.4.3 – Step 3 providing entry for cylinder
Step 4
When locating the platform for the water heater,
ensure it is placed over the top of supporting
walls, as ceiling joists will not carry the weight
when the unit is filled with water. The platform
should be made slightly larger than the tray, and
should be made from hardwood. Solder 50mm
overflow pop in the safe tray to ensure a
watertight joint. A 50mm diameter pipe is fitted to
the pop for overflow discharge outside the
building and this pipe must be supported at least
every two metres and have a gradual fall.
Step 5
The cylinder is then lifted up through the roof
and passed through the opening. It is essential
that hardwood timber slats (10mm to 12mm
thick) be placed in the tray before the cylinder
is located in its position.
Ground-mounted mains pressure storage tanks

Interior tanks
Storage tanks mounted inside a building need to have a spill tray draining to outside
the building or be on an impervious floor with a floor waste. In order to have an
adequate fall to the outside of the building, it may be necessary to raise the tank onto
a low stand. Ensure that there is adequate floor support under the location selected.
A cold water supply cut off (Terminator) device can be used instead of a spill tray
drain.
If the hot water storage tank is gas boosted, ensure adequate air entry to allow for
combustion. An electric-boosted tank will lose less heat if it is enclosed in a
cupboard, or isolated from draughts.
Exterior tanks
It is usual to use a concrete plinth (paver) as a base for a tank that is mounted on the
ground. For tanks located on sealed surfaces (bricks or concrete paths), provision
must be made to accommodate the water that escapes due to expansion through the
pressure relief valve. A hole of 100mm diameter through the concrete and filled with
coarse gravel under the discharge pipe is acceptable.
Heat pump tanks
• The actual installation is very similar to a standard electric hot water service.
• A normal 10 amp power outlet is required for the electrical connection. The unit
is fitted with a standard power plug.
• If the unit can be positioned in a warm or hot location it will run for shorter
periods of time than in a cooler location. This will save power and save money.
• Daytime operation may be preferable since this is usually the hottest part of the
day, again reducing the hours it has to run, and saving energy.
• Unless otherwise indicated by the manufacturer, the location should usually be
well ventilated so that the cold air it produces is free to move away.
• Some systems include ducting that can be used to provide suitable ventilation.
Check with the manufacturer for specific details.
6.5 Other components

Cold water supply
The selection of valves for the cold water supply is discussed in Chapter 5.
The location of the valves is significant. For both the in-ceiling storage tank and the
close coupled tank on the roof, Standard AS NZS 3500.4 requires the isolating valve
to be ‘readily accessible from floor or ground level’. Other valves such as expansion
valves should also be located somewhere that is accessible, near ground level. Refer
to Section 5.9.3 of the Standard for details of valve installation. Another isolating
valve at the storage tank is also desirable. The cold water isolating valve and
expansion valve should be located outside the building or in a place where leakage
would not be a problem.
Where valves are located close to the storage tank, there should be a metre of
uninsulated pipe (except in frost prone areas) between the tank and the expansion
valve in order that expanding hot water has a chance to cool before it reaches the
expansion valve (pressure relief valve).
Removal of protective anodes
A storage tank should be installed in a place where the protective anodes (if they
exist) are able to be removed at some time in the future. A tank installed in a
cupboard may not be able to have the anode easily removed. Multiple close coupled
units on a roof should be installed sufficiently far apart, or be offset so that the
anodes are able to be withdrawn.
Tempering valves
The Australasian Standard AS NZS 3500 requires that water from a storage hot
water tank at some stage reach a minimum of 60°C in order to kill and prevent the
further growth of Legionella bacteria. A solar hot water system will not always reach
60°C without some form of boost heating.
Having heated the water to 60°C it is too hot to be safe for bathrooms etc., so it must
be reduced in temperature using a tempering (thermal mixing) valve.
The location of the tempering valve is an issue. It is probably easiest to install it right
at the hot water storage tank (or continuous unit). This has the distinct disadvantage
that water to all points of the house will be tempered. For many people, water in the
kitchen for washing dishes or in the laundry for washing clothes needs to be hotter
than the maximum 50°C to which the tempering valve is set. Two pipe lines are now
required, one for hot water (at least 60°C) and one for tempered hot water (50°C).
For supply to points a long way from the hot water store, it is best to have the
tempering valve close to the point of use. If tempered water has to travel a long
distance it will continue to lose heat and be too cool by the time it reaches its
destination.
The pressure must be the same for hot and cold water on each side of a tempering
valve.
There are different tempering valves available for different operating pressures and
of course different sizes for different flow rates. Make sure that the tempering valve to
be installed is suitable.
Tempering valve
A tempering valve is also
called a thermal mixing
valve or a temperature
regulating valve. The hot
and cold water supply to a
tempering valve must at
the same pressure.
The location of the
tempering is significant.
Located right by the hot
water storage tank (see
left) makes for an easy
installation. The entire
house gets tempered
water.
Kitchens and laundries
often require water higher
than 50ºC. In such
circumstances a second
line delivering non-
tempered water is
required.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.5.1 – Tempering

valve installed on a hot
water tank
For locations a long way from the hot water storage, the tempered water continues to
lose heat so that by the time it reaches its destination it is too cool. The tempering
valve needs to be close to the point of usage.
The insulation and tape look good when new but it does not take long before they
deteriorate when exposed to sunshine.
Insulation of pipes
Also refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Section 8.3). Insulation of pipes is required to reduce
heat loss from hot pipes and in some localities cold pipes must be well insulated, too,
to prevent them from freezing.
The plastic insulation that comes on pre-lagged pipe does not provide adequate
insulation for pipes that have hot water in them for much of the day. The lagging,
however, is satisfactory for pipes that are reburied in concrete or attached to a wall
with saddles, permitting movement of the pipe within the lagging.
For pipes that have hot water flowing through them all day, such as those connecting
solar collectors with a storage tank, additional insulation is required.
Although often installed without insulation, plastic piping requires insulation if
significant heat loss and energy wastage are to be avoided.
Rubber insulation such as in Figure 6.5.1 above is popular with installers. When new
it looks neat, is easy to install and performs well. It is not suitable for external use
unless it is protected from the weather.
Figure 6.5.2 – Deterioration of water pipe insulation

Insulation deterioration
After only a year, the rubber insulation on the left in Figure 6.5.2 is failing badly. It
has cracked and within about three or four more years will completely fall apart,
leaving exposed the pipe that it is supposed to protect. The duct tape on the right is
used to hold the insulation in place. It is also badly affected by sunlight and similarly
will fall apart.
Painting with two coats of good quality paint will provide significant protection from
the effect of sunlight, but of course adds to the cost of the installation. It takes time.
However, if the insulation is required it must be protected. Solar water heater or
insulation suppliers can usually recommend a suitable paint.
Where pipe runs are straight, galvanised downpipe provides good weather protection
for insulation (see Figure 6.5.6, below).

Not only does the pipe need to be insulated but the connecting fittings as well.
Figure 6.5.3 – Insulation of pipe and fittings

Roof flashings
It is accepted practice to use silicon rubber or EPDM roof flashings on metal roofs for
the penetration of pipes (gas or water), electrical conduits and support frames or
poles. Similar flashings have been made for tile roofs, though lead is still used in the
majority of installations where it is compatible to roof materials (and where water is
not collected for drinking).
Photos: Dux Hot Water Systems
Figure 6.5.4 – Roof flashings

In Figure 6.5.4, the left flashing is typical of flashings used on steel roofing, while the
flashing in the right photo is common for tile roofs. The right flashing is lead coated
with plastic. Lead is still used on tile roofs but should never be used on zincalume
roofs (as it will corrode the zincalume coated steel) or where rainwater is collected to
supply water for drinking.
Unfortunately, the EPDM or silicon rubber type of flashing does not lend itself to
installations where the penetration is for a pipe close to parallel to the roof, such as in
a remote solar hot water system.
In Figure 6.5.5, the EPDM
rubber flashing is not
suited to such a flat angle.
The rubber insulation
shown should be 25mm
thick.
It will eventually fall apart
due to the effect of
sunlight on it and
rainwater leakage into the
roof space is likely.
Cracking is showing
already.
Figure 6.5.5 – Flashing

installation at flat angles
A 75mm metal downpipe would have provided good protection against sunlight and
allowed more appropriate thickness of insulation to be installed. It would have
needed to be pop-riveted onto the roof steel to prevent movement and been sealed
with silicon. An alternative would have been lead or, if possible, one of the newer
lead-free alternatives – acceptable on a galvanised but not a zincalume roof.
In Figure 6.5.6, the use of galvanised steel downpipe has permitted the thick
insulation to be protected from the weather. The copper pipe is 25mm so with the 2 x
25mm of insulation, this fits snugly
inside the 75mm diameter downpipe.
Covers made from polythene pipe,
which is resistant to sunlight, protect
the insulation surrounding the fittings
attached to the collectors. Similar
protection is required between the
collectors. The top pipe enters the roof
space under a galvanised cover
providing a flashing.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.5.6 – Protection of copper pipe insulation using galvanised steel down-pipe
Water treatment for rainwater tank supply

Rainwater caught off the roofs of buildings collects carbon dioxide from the
atmosphere. The carbon dioxide dissolves in the water producing a weak acid –
carbonic acid. Although not strongly acidic it can nevertheless be corrosive, and
neutralising the acidic water is desirable.
Town water supplies commonly have lime added to the water to neutralise acids so
that the water does not corrode pipes and fittings.
In rural areas, where the rainwater is stored in plastic tanks the acidity can be a
problem, especially in areas close to centres of population where air pollution is
heavy. The acidic corrosion produces a blue ring, caused by dissolved copper, on
baths and basins.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.5.7 – Cartridge on cold water supply to reduce acidity

In Figure 6.5.7 a cartridge has been installed on the cold supply to reduce acidity and
to keep solids suspended. The filter and internal cartridge were previously supplied
by Edwards Solar, and contained Tanmat crystals. Though replacement crystals are
still available, Edwards no longer consider that these cartridges are needed.
The cold water isolating valve is on the right. The date to replace the cartridge is
written on the outside of the cartridge case. The non-return valve on the cold supply
is on the downstream side of the cartridge so that it is not subjected to the pressure
in the tank when the water is heated. The cold water expansion valve is situated on
the extreme left and spare parts associated with the hot water unit are located in the
plastic bag. All of this is located on a wall where the sun will not reach it and cause
deterioration of plastic parts. It is situated at head height, within reach of adults but
out of children’s reach.
Flow switch
Sometimes a gravity feed system does not provide adequate pressure. This may
occur with an in-ceiling storage tank or a close coupled tank such as the Solco all-
plastic tank, which is gravity feed.
It is possible to have a pump that boosts the pressure by switching on whenever any
hot water is drawn off. To control the pump it is usual to have a flow switch. The flow
switch detects the movement of water through the switch and turns on the pump.
When the tap is turned off and no more water is flowing, the flow switch detects no
flow and the pump stops.
Unlike a mains pressure coil in the top of the tank, the pump arrangement provides
the hottest water possible, but unlike the mains pressure coil it cannot deliver hot
water to taps higher than the storage tank.
Water coming from a Solco gravity feed

close coupled solar hot water system…
…passes through a pressurising pump

that is turned on by…
…a flow switch…
and into a gas storage tank for boosting

of the solar heated water temperature if it
is not up to 60°C.
Photo: Andrew Blair
Figure 6.5.8 – Flow switch and pump installation

Air release valve
In order that air generated within collectors can escape, an air release valve is
installed as part of a pump circulated system. It should be installed at the highest
point of the system. The upper outlet, where the hot water from the collectors leaves,
is the usual place to install this valve.
In frost-prone areas the valve needs to be insulated to prevent the water inside it
freezing and splitting the valve open. This is a difficult task as water has to be able to
escape from the valve.
6.6 Multiple unit installations

For larger systems it is common for several hot water storage tanks or several solar
hot water systems to be installed in parallel. Refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Section 5.10).
In order that any one storage tank or solar water heater is able to be removed, an
isolating valve should be installed on the cold supply and the hot delivery lines, at
each unit. A single cold supply isolating, non-return valve, and cold supply expansion
valve can be located some distance away, but must be larger than a valve designed
for a single unit.
EQUA FLOW
Cold supply R
IN
from the R
LEFT.
Hot supply
OUT
to the
RIGHT.
L
Cold supply
IN
from the
RIGHT.
Hot supply
OUT
to the
LEFT.
R R
Diagram: Rheem Australia
Figure 6.6.1 – Parallel connection of hot water systems

In Figure 6.6.1, note that all the hot outlets are linked and all the cold outlets are
linked.
The linkage is arranged in such a way that the pressure-drop across each of the
multiple units is the same. Each unit delivers approximately the same quantity of hot
water.
If the cold supply and the hot delivery were both at the same end of the line of units,
the unit closest to the supply and delivery would deliver more water than that furthest
away.
The TPR valves (see Chapter 5) on each unit must not be joined into a single line
until after they have discharged into a tundish. A tundish as shown in Figure 6.6.2 is
an open drain pipe (a type of funnel) into which the expansion lines discharge.
Figure 6.6.2 – Discharge options for expansion lines

In Figure 6.6.2, expansion lines from several hot water storage tanks discharge into a
tundish (left) or a floor waste drain (right). The discharging pipes should be above the
tundish to prevent back flow – water being drawn up the expansion pipe. TPR and
expansion control valve drain lines are covered in Section 5.12 of AS/NZS 3500.4.
Solar Collectors
Solar Return
Building Return
Pre Heated Supply

Building Flow
P
P
S S Heater Heater
Boost
Boost
Cold Supply
Stop / Gate Valve ~ Non Return ~ Pressure Limiting
Diagram: Courtesy Rheem Australia
Figure 6.6.3 – An installation with multiple collectors, multiple solar hot water storage tanks
and multiple boost heaters
In Figure 6.6.3, take note of the following:

• the isolating (stop/gate) valve, non-return valve, and expansion (pressure
limiting) valve on the cold supply
• isolating valves on the hot and cold connections to the solar storage tanks and
the booster units.
• isolating valves to allow the removal of the solar circulating pump
• ring main shown by the Building Flow and Building Return pipes
• non-return valve on the ring main and isolating valves either side of the ring
main circulating pump
• cold entry to the solar storage tanks and heater boost system is diagonally
opposite to the hot water exit positions, which ensures an equal flow across the
units
• solar hot water collectors also have diagonal flow to ensure equal flow through
each collector
• TPR (temperature and pressure relief) valves on each storage tank and
expansion (pressure relief) valves on cold pipe to solar tanks and on the supply
to boost tanks are not shown.
Commissioning
The purpose of commissioning is to set the system up ready for the owner to use.
Part of the commissioning process is to ensure that all component parts function
normally and that the system is adjusted for optimum performance. For a simple
system this may not take very long. For a complex system it may take several days.
The aim is to ensure that the system functions properly under all normal conditions.
Not all of these conditions can be replicated to check that in fact the system functions
properly. It is most unlikely that if severe frosts occur in the district that the system
can be tested for these conditions. Similarly it might not be possible to test that the
over-temperature device works if the weather is not particularly warm when the unit is
installed. It might not even be sunny when the installation is done and so the
performance of the solar operation may not be able to be checked.
The only satisfactory way to thoroughly test a unit is to check each of the component
parts one at a time. This is very similar to trouble shooting (refer to Chapter 7) and
the same techniques are used.
Cost of commissioning
With standard installations, it is usual to assume that everything is in working order
and will function properly when the time comes. A thorough commissioning will take
much longer and so a charge for the commissioning must be included in the cost.
Refer to AS NZS 3500.4 (Section 11 – Testing and Commissioning).
Commissioning of a normal solar hot water system

Ensure that:
• the anti-freeze section (if there is one) is filled
• the cold water is turned on so that the storage tank fills
• the TPR (temperature pressure relief) valve is lifted to release air
• hot water taps within the house are turned on until water free of air bubbles is
delivered
• any taps with strainers or aerators on their outlets should have the
strainers/aerators taken off and cleaned to remove any swarf or other debris
that has got into the system during installation
• the whole system is checked for leaks
• the storage tank and collectors are checked to ensure that they sit properly in
place
• once these checks have been carried out and there appears to be no reason to
drain the storage tank, the covers (usually paper or cardboard) are removed
from the collectors
• if it is a sunny day, the hot pipe leading from the collectors to the storage tank
should be checked (by hand) to ensure that it is heating up; it should be hotter
than the cold line from the storage tank to the collectors
• with a pump circulated system, the function of the pump can be tested by
putting the sensor that goes into the top header into hot water to see if it
causes the pump to switch on. If it is cooled, the pump should switch off. If the
sensor is placed under very cold conditions (an ice block might be cold enough
to simulate frosty conditions) the pump should again come on to provide frost
protection
• the sensor associated with the bottom of the storage tank can similarly be
tested; if it is heated it should turn the pump off
• the TPR (temperature pressure relief) on the storage tank and PR (pressure
relief) valve on the cold supply of a mains pressure unit should be lifted to see
that each discharges normally and does not drip at the completion of the test.
If the boosting is electric, check that the element operates. The power indicated by
the meter, when comparing the element turned on and turned off, is a dead give
away.
With a gas unit, ensure that the booster comes into play if the water is not up to
temperature.
For a normal solar hot water system that is all that needs to be done for a simple
commissioning.
Checking water flow rates and temperatures requires a greater level of sophistication
than is appropriate for a normal domestic system.
References
Australian Standards
AS NZS 3500 Plumbing and Drainage (particularly 3500.4 – Heated water systems)
AS5601 Gas installations
Plumbing Industry Commission Victoria, Technical Solutions (www.pic.vic.gov.au)
Sections 6.2 to 6.6 questions

1. Why do close coupled systems (tank and collectors on roof) make for an easy
installation? What drawbacks are there and what can be done to make the
installation as easy as possible?
2. Why have on-ground mains pressure storage tanks recently become more
popular solar hot water installations than close coupled systems?
3. What makes an in-ceiling installation a slower and more difficult installation
than some other installations?
4. Treated (preserved) pine timber should never be used to mount solar
collectors on a roof. What type of timber is recommended as being suitable?
5. Why should collectors be kept covered while being installed until they are filled
with their normal operating water or anti-freeze fluid?
6. When should a safe tray be installed under a hot water storage tank?
7. Some plastic safe trays have ribs (with spaces between them) to support the
tank sitting in the tray. Flat galvanised or zincalume steel trays have timber between
the tank and the tray. What is the purpose of the ribs and the timber?
8. What type of solder would you use to solder a drain pop into a zincalume safe
tray?
9. Why it is important that if a cold water cut off valve (Terminator) is used it must
sit right on the base of the spill tray?
10. Why is it recommended that solar collectors slope slightly up to the outlet
where the hot water leaves?
11. Why must solar collectors be lower than their storage tank connections for a
thermosiphon system?
12. Some manufacturers recommend 20mm copper tube to connect collectors to a
storage tank. Others recommend 25mm. When might you use 20mm, and when
might you change to 25mm (or an even larger diameter), for a remote thermosiphon
system?
13. Why is copper tube and not plastic pipe recommended for solar hot water
installations?
14. The suggested thickness of insulation on copper pipe between collectors is
25mm (insulation 25mm + pipe 25mm + insulation 25mm = total diameter of 75mm).
The recommended insulation on hot water delivery pipes is 12mm minimum. Why is
there a difference between these two recommendations?
15. Why is it a good idea to have pipes connecting collectors and an in-ceiling
storage tank set between the ceiling rafters if possible, and then coming vertically up
to the connections at the tank? There are three good reasons; however, it is often not
possible to have the pipes installed in this way and have the collectors lower than the
bottom of the tank.
16. Sunlight has a damaging effect on some plastic and rubber materials. What
can be done to reduce this damage?
17. How would you connect solar collectors to a ground-mounted electric 315 litre
storage tank if the tank has only two connections:
• a hot water outlet at the top
• a cold water inlet at the bottom.
18. Why would you not weld additional nipples for a solar connection onto a steel
mains pressure tank?
19. Why is it that in frost-prone districts it is important that cold water pipes as well
as hot water pipes be insulated where they are exposed to outside air temperatures?
20. If installing a PTR (pressure temperature relief valve) and a PT (pressure
relief) valve/expansion valve on a solar hot water system where would you install
each valve?
21. Why would you install two valves (PTR and PR) and what purpose would each
valve serve? Where would each valve be installed?
22. A ground-mounted hot water storage tank sitting on a concrete verandah has
an intermittent trickle of water running across the verandah from the pressure
temperature relief) valve drain pipe. This leaves the verandah wet and slimy. How
might you install the system to prevent this water running across the verandah, yet
leave the storage tank in the same place? There are several ways this could be
done.
23. A gravity feed hot water storage tank with a mains pressure coil installed in it
is able to supply water to hot water outlets (taps) above the tank. A gravity feed tank
with a pressure pump and flow switch on the delivery pipeline to increase the
pressure cannot be connected to outlets above the storage tank. Why not? What is
the difference?
24. When connecting several solar collectors or several hot water storage tanks
together, the flow of water should be diagonally across the collectors or the tanks – in
the bottom of the first in the row and out the top of the last in the row. Why? Draw a
diagram to show how you would connect them.
25. When connecting several hot water storage tanks together it is important that
each tank have an isolating valve on the cold line and the hot line. Why is a valve
needed on both lines and not just the cold line as with a single hot water storage
tank?
26. Explain how you would flash a tile roof for pipes penetrating the roof for an in-
ceiling gravity feed storage tank as part of a remote solar hot water system. A
diagram might help.
27. Suppose an en suite bathroom is 30 metres away from the hot water storage
tank. Why would it be logical to install a tempering valve for the en suite close to the
en suite rather than beside the hot water storage tank?
28. How might you check to see if the water from a hot water service was reaching
the required 60ºC?
29. Suppose you have installed a solar hot water service. What would be the
minimum that you might do by way of commissioning it before handing it over to the
new owner?
30. Would checking of the operation of a tempering valve be regarded as part of
commissioning a newly installed hot water service?

Chapter6 - Storage Tank System Design and Installation

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6 System design and installation

System Design and Installation

6.1 Pre-installation ..........................................................................................172

6. SYSTEM DESIGN AND INSTALLATION

Have energy efficiency and water savings been investigated?

Figure 6.1.1 – Relocating a hot water service

Storage tank size

House size Number of people Minimum recommended hot water

1–2 bedrooms 1–2 180 litres

3 bedrooms 3–4 300 litres

4–6 bedrooms 5–7+ 400 litres+

Figure 6.1.2 – Recommended hot water storage by house size

• Will the collectors be tilted to approximately the angle of latitude?

Using an existing hot water system for a solar system

Installation check list and quotation/contract

Name of the supplier......................................................................................................

Building and usage details

Water details – cold supply

Proposed Solar Hot Water System

Connection of collectors to storage tank:

Domestic Hot water

Section 6.1 questions

6.2 The installation

Figure 6.2.1 – Getting the solar storage

Make sure that all the other materials

Figure 6.2.2 – Ensure that all equipment is

The collectors are then sat on the

Photo: Andrew Blair

Figure 6.2.3 – Ensuring proper angling of collectors

Figure 6.2.4 – Ensuring 25mm rise for collectors

The collectors without

Figure 6.2.5 – Placing collectors on a roof

These collectors are part of a pump-

Hot water outlet and temperature

Sensor wire in conduit penetrates

Hot water pipe from collectors

Figure 6.2.6 – Use of frames to mount collectors on a roof

Attaching the storage tank (close coupled systems)

6.2.4.1 Relative heights of collectors and storage tank

Collector well below tank

Hot water outlet

Cold pipe run

Hot pipe run

Figure 6.2.7 – Good thermosiphon circulation

Cold pipe run

Hot pipe run

Figure 6.2.8 – Poor thermosiphon circulation

If the collectors are at about the same level as the tank,

Cold pipe run

Hot pipe run

Figure 6.2.9 – Reverse circulation

Rule of Thumb 6.1 – Height of tanks above collectors

6.2.4.2 Solutions to the problem of collectors being too high

Figure 6.2.10 – Ground-mounted collectors

Reverse circulation can be prevented with an ‘anti-reverse

Figure 6.2.11 – Use of anti-reverse thermosiphon valve

Photos: Andrew Blair; valves from Solar Mio Albury

Figure 6.2.12 – Anti-reverse siphon valves

Anti-reverse flow storage tank

At night the water in the collector is cold and

Figure 6.2.13 – Reverse flow prevention

Photo: Andrew Blair