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ISSUE 224009
SUMMER

FREE

London goes
veggie for
a week
10 YEARS of farmers’
markets in London

BOTANICAL RESTAURANT SAF * REAL BREAD CAMPAIGN * LONDON’S LOCAL PRODUCERS


Say
hello
to the
jellied TUCK IN!
Bulletin 04

eel... Around Town


Take the Pledge to go Veggie
On The Menu: Saf Restaurant
07
08
10
Although not particularly it’s ethics we’re talking about, then more Shop Window: Gail’s Bakery 12
religious, I do indulge in certain sustainable still is not to eat meat and fish Local to London: Pâté Moi 15
at all. The difficulty is that there is some
traditions of the Christian faith. The Widening Plot:
land in Britain that cannot be used for
Before this issue went to press, The Capital Growth Scheme 17
anything more than grazing. Alas, the meat
I conducted a little experiment that we eat is not necessarily British Member Feature: Alara Muesli 19
over Lent. In previous years I or produced to very high standards.
London Food Link 21
have given up alcohol, and toyed As Sustain’s sustainable food guidelines
with the idea of giving up cheese (www.sustainweb.org/sustainablefood) detail, Diary 23
(although in the latter’s case I almost as important as the notion of eating less
have never had the courage to meat, is that the meat we eat should be of local
or British origin produced to high animal and
Thanks to the Team
give up this beloved product).
environmental welfare standards. Content: London Food Link
Editor: Ben Reynolds
This year I kept with the culinary theme, Contributors: Michael Dees, Ellie Garwood,
For Londoners, you can’t get more local
although I departed from the Christian Mark Handley, Seb Mayfield, Tom Moggach,
than meat produced on Mudchute Farm, Michael Wale, Hannah Williams
intention of fasting during Lent, and
%DVHGLQ%ULWDLQpVROGHVWIRRGPDUNHW5RDVWKDV which is used in their café (where we held Produced and Published: Hand Up Media
decided to give up vegetarianism for the
our network event at the end of April – Directors: Tania Pramschufer
EHHQYRWHGRQHRIWKH7RSUHVWDXUDQWVLQWKH period. After thirteen years of denying the
email Polly@sustainweb.org to come to the and Katie Williamson
flesh, so to speak, I felt that it was worth
FRXQWU\E\9LVLW%ULWDLQDQGo%HVW%UHDNIDVWLQ next one), which will be featured in our next Design: Martin Seagar
me reassessing my reasons. Although I Advertising: Kash Bhattacharya
/RQGRQpE\WKH*RRG)RRG*XLGHo(YHU\WKLQJWDVWHG issue. As the farm would struggle to feed
haven’t set out to eat meat every day, I Advertising Design: Patricia Henningsson
all of our meat-eating readers, the next Isabelle Plasschaert:
VHQVDWLRQDODQGZDVSHUIHFWO\FRRNHGpt7,PHRXW have given the trial a fair whack. I started most local source is London Farmer’s www.magicmarbles.co.uk
out with those meats commonly believed to Markets, which are celebrating their 10th Pamela Troni:
be desired by vegetarians – chicken and Anniversary this June (p4). www.pamelatroniphotography.com
bacon – moving on to heartier fare in the
form of steaks, stews, lamb and pork, and The Jellied Eel is the free quarterly magazine for
There’ll also be lots of good small meat sustainable food in London, produced by London
then things I hadn’t tried in my former producers at the Real Food Festival where Food Link and Hand Up Media. The magazine has
carnivorous life, such as pigeon, with the this issue is being launched. As for my a 30,000 circulation, and is distributed to all
odd sausage along the way. I even tried London Food Link members, and via shops, cafes,
meat-eating, I’m going to have to go back restaurants, bars, and entertainment venues.
fish, which I’d never been able to stomach to being vegetarian for a bit at least to see
the first time round. if I can do without my new found habit…. Advertising & Sponsorship
tania@handupmedia.co.uk
With this issue’s focus on vegetarian week katie@handupmedia.co.uk
(p8) and the vegan restaurant Saf (p10), it Telephone: 0131 226 2674
seemed only fair to provide a little balance. www.handupmedia.co.uk
However, I have to say that I’m not sure Editorial Enquiries
what all the fuss is about. I can see that ben@sustainweb.org 020 7837 1228
veggies can taste more delicious when www.londonfoodlink.org
cooked with meat, but I’d also say that they Distribution Enquiries
taste better than the meat too! The notion to stock the Jellied Eel
of making the most of a piece of meat – polly@sustainweb.org 020 7837 1228
through stews, soups and stocks – is more
sustainable than our nation’s recent desire
for only the prime cuts. Arguably, if

©Pamela Troni
Roast, The Floral Hall, Borough Market, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL
T 020 7940 1300 W www.roast-restaurant.com
Ben-Editor
Roast is also available for private and corporate events. Please call our team on 020 70151863. Disclaimer: Inclusion of information in The Jellied Eel does not imply
that the product of service is endorsed by London Food Link or Sustain.
02/03
Family Kitchen Gard
Five years ago, Karen
en book
Liebreich, Jutta Wagner, Annette Wend
others began to restor land and
e the neglected sevent
garden at Chiswick Ho eenth-century kitchen
use in West London, brin
schoolchildren to work ging in hundreds of loc
and learn and garden and al
Garden, published on eat. The Family Kitche
21st May at £16.99, is n
Emphasising produce the fruit of that experie
that is fun to grow and nce.
clear instructions on gro useful for a family, it pro
wing vegetables, fruit, vides
herbs and cutting flow
www.kitchengarden.o ers.

On Sunday 19 rg.uk
th July, Brita
over by the B in will be tak
London Farmers’ country are
they’re doin
ig Lunch. Peo
being asked
ple across th
to stop what
en
e
g and sit dow

London’s
Markets building up to together. Bey
doing this, it
ond all the n
’s likely to b
n to lunch
oble reasons
for
whether you e a lot of fun.
10 YEAR celebrations your own stre
check out
want to orga
et, or attend
nise a lunch
someone else
www.thebiglu
So
in
’s,
food, it’s
nch.com

a gas
On 6th June 1999, the Islington Far
mers' Market became what was
probably the first authentic farmers’
market in London since farmers
used to drive their cattle into Smithfi
eld market. The concept was sim
seasonal, fresh food, straight from ple: The Greater London Authority has

Bloomin’ fed up with supermarkets and oth


the farm. Many farmers had grown
er traditional forms of business tha
so Calendars provided by Tom Mogg
ach

!
published a report on London’s
food related greenhouse gas
seasonal calendar
direct was the only attractive and t selling
London uncertain on that first day, but mo
from 15 weekly stalls in 1999 to 30
viable option. The farmers were a
bit
st still attend the market, which has
in the main summer season today.
grown
What’s in season?
emissions. It finds that food
consumption in the capital
accounts for 19 million tonnes
This year London in Bloom is pleased to MAY of greenhouse gases per year –
be adding another prestigious award, the Ten years on, many more farmers MAY Keep sowing lettuces
and salad leaves
Capital Growth Award, to celebrate the work markets have opened. Islington and for a steady supply. a very significant figure – and 44%
markets form the backbone of over the other 14 weekly FENNEL every few weeks
100 South East farm businesses, of these emissions are attributable
of individuals and local groups growing food. ‘We Grow It, We Sell It.’ Many farm selling under the slogan ens that feel heavy in the doors, sow brassicas
s sell at more than one market to Look for smaller specim If you’ve got space out
This award is not for allotments (there is a have also picked up restaurant and cut overheads, and some sala d, shave slivers of fennel ple sprouting broccoli, to the agricultural stage.
wholesale orders through attending hand. For a refreshing of for winter such as pur
special award for Allotment Gardening), the markets. The 15 Add roasted nuts, slivers
but for growing vegetables and fruit in
farmers’ markets now generate app
roximately £5 million in farm sales with a mandolin grater. n toss with a kale and cabbages. The new report on London's food
each year. , mil d red chi lli, the
peeled orange beans. Select dwarf
any suitable area. The conversion of Mark Handley of London Farmers’ dressing of olive oil and
lemon juice. Plant French and runner looks at all greenhouse gas emissions
Markets (LFM) believes that many balcon ies and tight spaces. from the food system not just of CO2
unattractive or derelict areas will not only that the fish sold at farmers’ markets customers do not realise varieties for
make a contribution to sustaining London, comes straight from the fisherme gus, strawberries, broad (the main gas that was the focus of
they sell it themselves,” he remarked n. ”Most of the time Also in season: aspara -
. “They are the ones in the big yello , sea trout (choose line London's Climate Change Action Plan)
it will also improve many areas that are wandering around market. We only
permit businesses with licensed fishi
w Wellington boots beans, radishes, rocket
ana ged fisherie s), Jersey JUNE but also methane and nitrous oxide -
currently unmanaged, and so contribute ng vessels to sell caught from we ll-m erries, create new
at the market, so the fish is so fresh
it would make Rick Stein weep!” If you’re growing strawb potent greenhouse gases associated
to improving London’s environment. Royal new potatoes. ir runners, which creep
plants for free. Find the s with, for example, livestock production
. Peg them down in pot
Future projects include a new, mor
e interactive website to help custome out across the ground sever from
and fertiliser use in farming.
London in Bloom, part of the Britain in Bloom ce est abl ish ed,
movement, has existed for over 40 years and
their favourite farms and more new
s about their markets. LFM is also
rs find out more about
JUNE until they root. On
reduce plastic packaging at their working on initiatives to the mother plant. The new report is a call to action for
works closely with the London Boroughs to through open days and events such
markets, and connect customers
to the farmers more directly CHERRIES ots of cordon tomatoes, London's consumers, caterers,
encourage businesses, residents, community as cooking classes. Many local even lost around 80% of our Pinch out the side sho
farmers’ market to mark 10 years ts are planned at each Buy British, as we’ve ls its energy to the frui
t. businesses, hospitals, schools and
of local food in London. Those inter last fifty years. Farmers’ so that the plant channe
groups and individuals to take part in their near them should join the mailing ested in what’s happening cherry orchards in the varieties g, mo ve leafy salad crops restaurants to prioritise food that
list below. To whet your appetite there bet for traditional If the sun is blazin
local campaigns. The awards will look for market, fayre and picnic on Islington will be a farmers’ markets are your best the semi-shade. minimises greenhouse gas emissions
spaces that demonstrate horticultural Green on Saturday 6th June, with as the pink and cre am Merton Glory. grown in containers into and promotes health and sustainability.
traditional games. At the regular Islin a plant swap and such
achievement, environmental responsibility gton farmers’ market on Sunday Climate-friendly food choices include:
an anniversary cake for customers, 7th June, there will be erries, elderflower, arti
-
and community participation. plant fair next to the market outside
and on Sunday 14th of June there
will be a giant garden Also in season: strawb
ergine, carrots, cou r- JULY
Islington Town Hall. Details of thes
e and other events chokes, watercress, aub Wait until the end of the
month to sow Less meat and dairy, and more food
will be posted on the LFM website (choose line- or
Spaces are assessed in July of each year, throughout the year. gettes, peas, sea bass Oriental gre ens, chicory, rocket, lambs from plants. According to latest
ll-managed fisheries),
so get growing to stand a chance of being net-caught fish from we lettuce and chervil.
figures from the United Nations,
the first ever London in Bloom Capital To find out more visit: www.lfm.or broad beans. rgettes – you want
animal farming globally causes more
Growth award winner!
g.uk info@lfm.org.uk Keep an eye on your cou
and small. Don’t let
greenhouse gas emissions than all
to pick them when firm of the cars, lorries and planes in the
JULY them grow into marrows – unless you really
world put together, and the impact
www.londoninbloom.co.uk GOOSEBERRIES like marrows! is increasing.
lost around 80% of our
020 8662 1021 Buy British, as we’ve roughly, monitoring
last fifty years. Farmers’ Take care to water tho More local, seasonal and field-grown
cherry orchards in the soak twice a week
bet for traditional varieti
es any hot spells. A good fruit and vegetables.
markets are your best ly sprinklings. This month,
©Isabe

cre am Me rton Glory. is better than dai


such as the pink and ra thirsty.
fruit plants will be ext Food, such as organic, grown
erries, elderflower, without artificial chemicals -
lle Plas

Also in season: strawb


London Yields riculture at the artichokes, watercres
s, sea
s, aubergine, carrots,
bas s (choose line- or
particularly artificial fertiliser, the
main source of the potent
schaert

courgettes , pea
an ag anaged fisheries),
Photo exhibition of urb net-caught fish from we ll-m greenhouse gas nitrous oxide.
odge Street station.
Building Centre, near Go broad beans. The report can be downloaded here:
09
Open until 30th May 20
www.london.gov.uk/mayor/
publications/2009/docs/
.uk/events/
www.buildingcentre.co
food-emissions.rtf

04/05
ADVERTISEMENT
AROUND TOWN
A TASTE OF FRESH WEST EAST SOUTH

AND NATURAL White City Tower Hamlets - Brixton Market’s


WHOLE FOODS MARKET KENSINGTON Food Co-op Community Cafe triumphant win
Phoenix High School has been using its farm An exciting and innovative catering enterprise Following months of campaigning, leafleting
and learning zone to build links with the wider called Flavour Gateway has been launched by and event holding, traders and residents have
community in White City, West London. Tower Hamlets charity City Gateway. Starting managed to save one of London’s most
Whole Foods Market is an organic and natural supermarket The high school, which has just been made a the catering enterprise was the idea of some of celebrated and famous markets - Brixton
that gives everyone the opportunity to taste the best things Flagship School by the Soil Association’s Food
for Life programme, launched its White City
the women attending the Business Start-up
course run at City Gateway Women's Project.
Market. In a familiar set-up (faceless
corporation sets sights on demolishing
in life from London and across the globe. Open since 2007, Food Co-op on April 24th 2009. The school small-scale, friendly, local market in order to a
opened its farm gates to residents from the The social enterprise offers a high quality build characterless outlet), the outcome
the store is famous for the huge variety of ‘natural’ goods estate to come and buy affordable, seasonal catering service that reflects the multi-cultural provides a refreshing turn-around with
produce, learn about the project and even pick tastes of the area. It also provides flexible developers deciding to listen to traders and
it stocks and for its expertise in butchery, grocery, bakery up some free plants grown on the farm. employment for women in Tower Hamlets who halt their plans.
and speciality food. The volunteer run co-op is open to everyone on
are currently economically inactive, but keen
to utilise their existing talents and the Campaigners have welcomed London
Fridays from 9am to 12pm in the farm grounds. skills that they have learnt through participating Associated Properties’ decision; nonetheless,
The first thing you notice when you step off It’s not just the in-store butchery team who help Phoenix school hopes that this will provide in courses. they are not resting on their laurels and are now
Kensington High Street into the store is the give Whole Foods Market the edge. It’s the
GETTING TO KNOW residents with healthy food but also make their working hard to make a demolition impossible
sweet aroma of freshly baked bread and cakes. farmers that supply the meat who are the crucial JOE THE BUTCHER farm facilities and courses more accessible to In April, the enterprise launched their by getting the site listed.
Whole Foods Market is the only supermarket ingredient in making the Whole Foods Market’s the wider community. community café, Café Relax, at its premises in
with its own in-house bakery, which makes over butcher’s counter stand out. Whole Foods Poplar with the support of Well London. The Residents had their original application to list
Name: Joe Brennan Garry McMillan, co-op coordinator and facilities community café provides a valuable community the market denied following a Department of
22 different varieties of bread fresh daily. Market works closely with farms such as John &
Lizzy Ridout’s Penbugle Farm to ensure they Job: Senior butcher, manager of the school, has high hopes for the facility, enabling access to healthy, affordable Culture Media and Sport review (which was
Downstairs, the lower ground floor opens out have a long term profitable partnership which Whole Foods Market initiative. "We are confident that the White City food for local residents and encouraging social based on an architectural assessment by
to feel like a fruit and vegetable market with goes beyond just supplying the store. In 2008 Food Co-op will help engage traditionally interaction within the diverse local community. English Heritage). Since then, local Brixton
produce from all over the UK. Each month you’ll Whole Foods Market entered into a unique Most likely to be found: isolated communities, whilst at the same time It is open on Tuesdays and Wednesdays during resident Paul Bakalite has applied to have this
find produce with its own story to tell whether partnership with this group of farms in Cornwall behind the butchery educating people and providing local, low cost, term time from 9.30am to 2.30pm, and aims judgement reviewed on the grounds that the
that’s English asparagus, unusual potato to guarantee meat prices and work with them at counter, lower ground floor healthy produce.” to educate customers about healthy and cultural significance (specifically Black history)
varieties or fresh seasonal greens. every stage of the meat production process. sustainable eating by providing healthy, local of the market had not been assessed. Local
Favourite cut of meat: The co-op is funded by the Big Lottery as part options, and running awareness-raising residents and traders are now awaiting DCMS’
Moving on past free range eggs, dairy, tea, jams, In addition to strong vendor relationships, Boneless dry aged rib eye steak of the Well London programme in White City. campaigns at the café. City Gateway is also second review, the results of which should
fresh fish, coffee, organic pastas, the olive oil bar through its exclusive ‘5 Step Animal Welfare working closely with Groundwork, which is be announced in the summer.
Last supper: Grilled rack For more information contact: supporting a gardening group at the centre to
and of course, the chocolate counter, anyone Programme’ Whole Foods Market proves its
of lamb with roast potatoes Hannah@sustainweb.org grow their own veg for the café. Let’s hope the new assessment furthers
coming here can’t fail to find something to take commitment to raising the standards of food
home and inspire them to cook, eat and drink well. production in the UK and beyond. or 020 7837 1228 the success of the residents’ campaign
Favourite farmer: John “The launch of Flavour Gateway is an exciting to save their market!
Ridout, Cornish River Valley development as it gives unemployed women the
Knowing your butcher To finish the tour of Whole Foods Market, up
the historic staircase to the first floor Favourite thing about London: opportunity to develop skills and experience
is the restaurant venues dedicated entirely in a professional and demanding business
An essential part of eating well is buying good The parks
to eating the best and freshest food on High environment,” commented Yvette Elkana,
meat and poultry from a knowledgeable butcher.
Street. There are food counters serving Enterprise Hub Director at City Gateway.
A little known secret is the store’s butchery
counter on the lower ground floor. Headed up by the best sushi, Italian dishes, pizza, steak
sandwiches, burritos, salads, ice cream, crepes, Further details can be found at:
senior butcher, Joe Brennan, the counter is the
waffles, pastries, freshly made www.flavourgateway.com.
first to open on Kensington High Street in many
juices and of course, a Contact: Hannah@sustainweb.org
years and the only one currently in operation.
good cup of tea for when or call 020 7837 1228
Whole Foods Market’s team of trained butchers deciding how, what
look after every step - from field to meat counter and when to eat has
to the shopping basket—and they also provide got too much.
©Hannah Williams

©Pamela Troni
recipes and cooking advice. They visit supplier
farms, seek out the best organic and natural
meats from all over the UK and Joe and his
team can cut the meat to order ensuring you get
just what you need.

Have we tempted you to come and try for yourself?


For more information on other Whole Foods Market
stores please visit: www.wholefoodsmarket.co.uk
06/07
TAKE THE
PLEDGE TO
GO VEGGIE
The Vegetarian Society is gearing up for another seven days of
herbivorous happiness, and encouraging men, women and children
across the UK to join in the culinary fun. The annual awareness- THERE ARE AROUND
raising campaign, now in its 17th year, takes place between Monday Monday 18th –
18th and Sunday 24th May 2009, and promotes the scrumptious Sunday 24th M
ay
1.2 MILLION
array of vegetarian dishes available, as well as the benefits of a VEGETARIANS IN THE UK
meat-free lifestyle. The hotly anticipated week will undoubtedly Cert no. XXX-XXX-XXXX (AROUND 2% OF THE POPULATION)
create a stir among veggie-friendly Londoners, who have already
Printed on Revive
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Alex Bourke, author of Vegetarian London, “People often see vegetarianism as a


can’t praise the week highly enough: massive lifestyle change,” she says. “We
VEGGIE STATS VENUES
“National Vegetarian Week in May is a don’t want people to look at it that way, but AND FACTS GETTING INVOLVED
chance to raise awareness of the single rather something they can fit around their
By Ellie Garwood
biggest and easiest thing you can do to live current way of living.” With more and more
a more sustainable life,” he says. If you are people concerned about the environment, BALLS BROTHERS, EAST LONDON.
going to take a pledge to go veg, London becoming a vegetarian has never been so
Livestock production is responsible They are altering their lunch and evening menus,
seems to be the place to do it. “London is apt. “If people realised the impact this could for 70% of Amazonian deforestation. providing meat-free dishes throughout week.
the best place in Europe to be a vegetarian,” have on their carbon footprint, they’d be more Free daily food tastings will also be on offer.
says Bourke. “That's why I live here, and why than willing to have a meat-free day,” reckons There are around 1.2 million
many Europeans come here for the various Cooke. She goes on to roll off an array of vegetarians in the UK (around 2% ARUP, CENTRAL LONDON. The global firm
vegan and vegetarian festivals that occur impressive statistics resulting from having of the population), and a further 7% of designers, engineers, planners and business
during the year. When I produced the first one meat free day a week for a year; each
who eat veggie most of the time. consultants is to hold vegetarian talks, tasting
Vegetarian London guidebook in 1994, there person would save 84,000 gallons of water,
sessions, documentary screenings and is even
were around 100 vegetarian restaurants and for example, and 245 pounds of grain.
you could count the vegan ones on one 18% of world global greenhouse planning to set up an intranet forum to discuss
hand. In 2009 there are 165 vegetarian With a plethora of vegetarian and vegan gas emissions come from vegetarianism and its role in sustainable
restaurants, cafes and take-aways in London restaurants springing up around the livestock production, compared food production.
and 27 of those are completely vegan.” capital, there has never been an easier – or to 13.5% from transport.
tastier – time to try life on the other side; but SODEXO AT NABARRO, CENTRAL LONDON.
Also looking forward to the week is Chantal if the thought of an existence without roast
The first cookery book devoted to Food and facilities management company, Sodexo,
Cooke, one of this year’s newly appointed beef is too much to bear, why not take up the will provide live displays, cooking sessions and
London Leaders (influential figures ‘one meat-free day a week’ challenge? vegetarian recipes was written in
Q&A sessions for employees at law firm Nabarro.
hand-picked by The London Sustainable Vegetarian Week would be the perfect time 1812 by a Mrs J Brotherton.
Development Commission to motivate to start!
HAMPTON COURT PALACE, SURREY.
individuals and communities to change
Now in its third year, the Hampton Court
London for the better – including Alex Smith
– see p19). An avid vegetarian, Cooke is event celebrates vegetarian food with chef
asking Londoners to allocate one day a week “WITH MORE AND MORE PEOPLE CONCERNED demonstrations. Head of Cordon Vert, Christine
to eating a meat free diet; she hopes Tilbury, will be demonstrating a selection of
the softly, softly approach will offer an ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT, BECOMING A dishes from the Cordon Vert’s new ‘Inspired
accessible way for people to cut down on the
amount of meat they consume.
VEGETARIAN HAS NEVER BEEN SO APT.” by Linda McCartney’ workshop. Demonstrations
take place May 23rd-25th 2009.

08/09
ON THE MENU

Tuition, Catering and Market Tours

©Isabelle Plasschaert

&RRNLQJ& ODVVHV ‡([TXLVLWH&DWHULQJ


RAW FOOD DOESN’T Guide d Market Tours & Meet the Producer
Tailor Made Cooking Lessons for small group s

MEAN A RAW DEAL www.sarahmoore.co.uk

It’s tricky, being vegan. Eating out is an ethical minefield, scattered with meaty menus
and surly waiters. As Tom Moggach finds out, the vegan diner almost always gets a raw deal.

For chef David Bailey, it’s a familiar scenario. policy of playing down its vegan and raw Today Saf is thriving, with hoards of regulars
Recipe for Cae
sar Salad
Makes 1 large ro
Unpackaged
Your local, packaging free, organic grocery
und 10in/25cm ca
And one that gives him the giggles. He’s credentials. “We’re not here to convert and an average of 140 covers on a busy ke
often watched the scene being played out at anybody,” explains executive chef Chad Saturday night. “We don’t need to stand there Salad ingredient
s:
Saf, his restaurant in Shoreditch. ‘What can I Sarno, who helped to launch the restaurant. and preach about it. People just won’t want to Romaine lettuc Weekdays 10am – 7pm, Saturdays 9am – 6pm
e, croutons,
eat?’ asks the vegan diner, without hope. “My whole goal is to make raw food taste listen,” says Bailey. At Saf, they let their food dulse and nori
seaweed.
David’s answer, of course, is every item on as cooked as possible and meet people do the talking. Packaging free shopping, fresh goods,
the menu. half way with the tastes, textures and For the dressing
presentation.” cup water, 2 cl
: 0.5 cup olive
oil, 0.5 wholefoods, refillable environmentally
Saf, which just celebrated its first birthday, oves garlic, 3 tb
has always been unashamedly different. For For Bailey, it’s been a steep learning curve.
Saf Restaurant juice, 2 celery
sticks, 1 tbsp m
sp lemon friendly toiletries and cleaning products
3 dates, 1.5 tbsp iso,
a start, it’s the food: fancy dishes such as He turned vegetarian three years ago, but 152-154 Curtain Road EC2 kelp powder, 1 tb
sp salt. and much more.
beetroot ravioli with balsamic figs; or maki mastering raw food was a fresh challenge. “It T: 020 7613 0007 FREE
rolls with parsnip rice, dipped in orange was about changing the way I thought
www.safrestaurant.co.uk
For the crouto
ns: 1 cup pinenu
ts,
Bring your own containers and 500g refill!
0.25 cup nutriti
ponzu soy sauce. Wines are organic completely,” he says. With heat, he explains, onal yeast, 0.25
cup save 50p each time you refill of any wholefo
or biodynamic, spirits infused with sour you can change the character of ingredients. In onion powder, dr ods when
izzle olive oil. you bring this
cherries, anise or local green apples. contrast, raw food relies entirely on their ad and
To make the dr your own cont
original quality. The emphasis is then on new essing, blend ev ainer
Second, it’s the kitchen. Peek inside and cooking techniques, balancing textures, together except ery thing
olive oil. Once
you find a strangely calm atmosphere – no inventive seasoning and top notch presentation. smooth, pour mix is
the olive oil in
shouting, stress or sizzling grills. “They don’t emulsify. Seas slowly to
on with salt an
have the same aggression,” observes Bailey When Saf launched, a year ago, it was with d pepper.
of his staff. (He reckons it’s the lack of meat a blaze of publicity. Press releases drooled To make the cr
in their diet.) Even their tools are different: how they would take gastronomy to new outons, blend al
ingredients toge l
high-speed blenders to whizz cashews heights – “serving food that whilst not always ther. Once crum
press into crou bled,
into light creams, dehydrators to cook hot, is definitely haute.” ton shapes, read
y to use.
slivers of apple below 48°C to preserve
Mix salad ingred
their natural enzymes. Some critics, of course, savaged the place. ients in bowl
and drizzle with
The ‘cheese’, made from soaked nuts, was dressing to
But most significantly, it’s the attitude at Saf a “flavoured sludge”, declared one. But on
make the best
vegan/raw www.beunpackaged.com
that sets it apart. The staff have a deliberate the whole, the feedback was positive. Caesar salad ev 42 Amwell Street, London, EC1R 1XT, Tel: 020 7713 8368
er!
10/11
SHOP WINDOW
©Isabelle Plasschaert
LONDON
Flour FARMERS’MARKETS
10 Years of Real farmers’ markets in London

power
You can get it sliced, diced, half-baked, crust-less and even with added
WE GROW IT.
WE SELL IT.
15 weekly Certified
Farmers’ Markets
throughout London

omega-3. What you can’t get so easily these days, however, is bread Local, seasonal food direct
from the producer including
using minimal ingredients, free from additives and preservatives, fruit and vegetables, rare
hand-crafted by trained, skilled bakers. Ellie Garwood reports breed meat and poultry,
herbs, fresh juices, honey,
Only 5% of bread sold in the UK today is Despite the bakery’s overwhelming success, King believes the potential for real bread is free range and organic eggs,
made using traditional methods and simple general manager Sally King is keen to massive, with the growth of Gail’s Bakery home made cakes, artisan
ingredients; industrial bakeries, in contrast, emphasise that real bakers are still small fish over the last four years a clear indicator of breads, fish and shellfish,
account for a massive 80%, and in-store in a big pond. “As a small player against the increased public demand. “We think that dairy products
bakeries (that use similar ingredients, larger chains, it is hard to find sites, and there is a genuine resurgence of real bread and much more.
additives and intensive processes) produce being a premium bakery, cost is certainly a going on. With the media picking up on
the remaining 15%. Since the introduction of factor”. It seems this isn’t the only obstacle. it more and more, we are optimistic about the
intensive bread making, or the Chorleywood “Awareness is also an issue”, says future.” Upcoming Events:
Bread Process (CBP) as it is known in the King. “Educating people to understand the
industry, UK bread consumption has difference between real bread - and why The public, it seems, is regaining its appetite Picnic on the Green,
declined considerably, slumping by a it can cost more - what is so bad about for nutritious, locally produced bread. Islington Green
staggering 50% per capita since 1960. It manufactured bread, and why it costs so Massive shifts won’t happen overnight, but - Saturday 6th June
seems the days of lovingly crafted, nutritious, little, is vital.” establishments like Gail’s Bakery are helping (Farmers’ market stalls, barter
artisanal bread have disappeared - and with Londoners put real bread back on the table, stalls, traditional fete games
them, our national love of the loaf. Sustainability is of utmost importance at slice by slice. and more)
Gail’s Bakery, with flour coming from a range
Gail Stephens, founder of Gail’s Bakery, was of UK sources including Shipton Mill Anniversary Market,
so dissatisfied with the state of British bread in Gloucestershire, Sharpham Park in Islington
she decided to open her own traditional Somerset, Doves Farm in Wiltshire, and - Sunday 7th June
bakery on Hampstead High Street in 2005, Marriage Millers in Essex. The butter is from (With cake to share!)
together with entrepreneurs Ran Avidan and Lescure and Rachel’s Organic, and organic
Tom Molnar. Four years later, the company fruit farm Chegworth Valley supplies apple Marylebone Fair
owns three separate outlets in Hampstead juice and Bramley apples from Kent. “We try - Sunday 15th June
Heath, St. John’s Wood and Notting Hill, with to adhere to seasonality”, says King. “There
a fourth set to open in Clapham in June. The is always room for improvement, but we
Plant Fairs:
bakery also supplies Ocado, a range of local currently work very hard to achieve it”.
Waitrose stores and a handful of local Sat 9th May Wimbledon
restaurants. Sun 10th May Islington
Sat 16th May Parliament Hill
Sun 17th May Blackheath
Sun 24th May Walthamstow
Sun 14th June Islington -
10th Anniversary plant fair
Sun 21st June Queens Park
EAT
HEALTH i n f o @ l f m . o rg . u k
USE YOUR LOAF ILY w w w. l f m . o rg . u k
and check out
www.sustainweb.org/
realbread
for real bread
suppliers near you.

12/13
Local to London

PÂTÉ

©Pame
la Tron
i
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Bored at work? In our idle moments, most
of us dream of breaking free: take the
;DG—(,
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plunge; leave the job; go it alone. But
C
I>8@:IH6G:A>B 7DD@>C<# it’s far from easy, as Flip Dunning,
>I:9
founder of Pate Moi, is first to admit:
“It’s been a lot work. I’ve stuffed
envelopes to make ends meet.”

Rewind four years, and Dunning Each week, she orders in 50 kilos of organic Her enthusiasm is infectious, and regulars
mushrooms from Suffolk, whizzing them up return each week to tell Dunning about their
HJBB:G>C was toiling away in a job in with breadcrumbs, curd cheese, tamari, lemon latest culinary discoveries for her pate: baked
I=:8>IN advertising. Today she runs a juice and her trademark secret spices in a in a chicken breast; wrapped in pancetta;
successful company selling commercial kitchen near London Bridge. added to beef Wellington; mixed through pasta
mushroom pate in Borough or even spread in a bacon sandwich.
It’s a family recipe, invented by her brother at
Market: “I can honestly say the age of eight. Dunning sells just this one This month, Pate Moi will exhibit for the
I changed my life and never product, making it with love – key ingredients second time at the Real Food Festival. “Last
feel jaded. I will never work for a successful artisan food business. year was a brilliant springboard in terms of
people’s awareness,” Dunning says. “We got a
in an office again.” She now sells to local delis too, although the ton of shops asking us to supply them.”
bulk of her trade remains at the market. Interest is also growing from various box
“There’s a fantastic sense of community there,” delivery schemes.
she explains. “You very quickly get used

&- '& to being a trader, not a punter. It’s very Her lessons for others? “It is a massive step.
competitive, but I feel blessed.” But if you really want to do something then you
should take the leap. If you’re not feeling alive

?JC:
then you have to make the change.”

But the obvious question, of course, is about


the reaction of her brother to her success. She
giggles: “He always says: ‘If you become a
pate millionaire you can halve it with me.’”
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8gdfjZ<VhXdc™9^c^c\h™;^cd™=ZgZ[dgYGdVY™@V^BVn[V^g™A¼6c^bV™A¼6iZa^ZgYZ?dZaGdWjX]dc™AVjcXZhidcEaVXZ G:<:CI¼H By Tom Moggach

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I6HI:D;I=6>A6C9/7Zc_V™7ajZ:aZe]Vci™7jhVWV:Vi]V^™BVc\dIgZZ™CV]b E6G@ To discover more visit
ID7DD@I>8@:IHK>H>II6HI:;:HI>K6AH#8DB$ADC9DCDG86AAI=:=DIA>C:DC%-,&'(%,&(' www.mushroompate.co.uk
HjbbZg^ci]Z8^ind[[ZgVeea^ZhidI]jghYVnVcY;g^YVndcan#FjdiZ?:%&l]ZcWdd`^c\#7dd`^c\[ZZhVeean#
or find Pate Moi at the
Real Food Festival and
Borough Market
14/15
THE
WIDENING
Drop into Wahaca and try freshly prepared, seasonal dishes

PLOT
from our new summer menu. Here are some of our favourites...

Devon crab taquito


Fiery, smoky tastes of the sea Mexican style…White and brown
Devon crab meat, MSC shrimps and our habanero-laced escabeche
marinade – topped with our avocado & Mexican chilli salsa
Summer Fuerza Salad
Fuerza is Mexican for “power” which is what this super healthy salad
will fill you with once you have munched your way through crisp
To some, Boris Johnson’s championing of the idea

©Louise Vaughan
lettuce, marinated beetroot, omega-rich avocado, protein-full quinoa
and vitamin-C packed hibiscus flowers and home-made dressing.
to create 2012 new growing spaces across the capital
MSC shrimp ceviche tostada
Sharp, citrusy, fresh – our MSC shrimp marinated in fresh lime juice by the time of the London Olympics in 2012 seemed
and chillies and served on a lettuce leaf and crisp tostada a political gimmick. Not so in reality…
Horchata The Capital Growth scheme is being driven Growth we have been able to double the
Our new agua fresca, made of ground almonds and rice and by project manager Seb Mayfield, whose growing areas on the estate. It has not only
a touch of cinnamon – refreshing, delicious and dairy-free! pitch I experienced at the burgeoning got people growing, but more importantly
London Allotment Officers’ group. The it’s brought the community together.”
www.wahaca.co.uk group’s growing success is down to Jeff
Barber, a leading light in the Allotment One of the more unusual projects backed by
Regeneration Initiative (ARI). Jeff has Capital Growth is the charitable Hermitage
encouraged more and more of the 33 River Project, which is a mooring for historic
London boroughs to send allotment boats within sight of Tower Bridge. Heading
representatives to the meeting. I was at the the scheme is Anne Wainwright, who lives in
first meeting when there were only five or a Medway Coaster named Rock. Anne says
six. When Seb spoke to the meeting in that people who live in boats are often seen
Uxbridge there were over twenty five by society as gypsies, and are mistrusted
The and misunderstood. Having spent the
Sustainable boroughs represented. With ARI just
City receiving funding for the next few years, last five years planning the mooring in
Awards co-operation with the Port of London
we are hoping for more and better
supported allotments across London. Authority, she saw a chance for it to contain
www.whitechapelgallery.org/dine small growing areas for each boat, so that
As for Capital Growth, Seb is optimistic. their residents can eat fresh, home-grown
He told me: “We have had an amazing salad and herbs.
Category Winner
2008/09

response, ranging from a small roof garden


on a local theatre in Hackney to a doctor’s Tamsin Wills is helping turn land at
Stonebridge Lock on the River Lea into a
surgery in Brixton. There have been lots of
growing and permaculture centre. There is
Dining Room & Café Dining Room – a modern British brasserie housing estates applying for our backing, as
to be a big investment in fruit trees. Again
Open for lunch & dinner from Tuesday to Saturday and Sunday well as prisons.” Pointedly, he notes that the
it has led to community co-operation,
Head Chef Maria Elia’s eclectic take on British seasonal lunch. Booking recommended. spaces cover 28 of London’s 33 boroughs. especially when a lorry-load of compost
ingredients has already won rave reviews since we opened Later, we might name the guilty boroughs arrived from North London Waste and had
the stylish yet intimate Dining Room in the newly refurbished Café – perfect for a drink or light meal that have yet to apply themselves. Will to be moved barrow by barrow onto the site!
my own, reluctant-to-grow borough, She is also involved with Sustainable
Gallery in April. Open from 11am to 5.30pm Tuesday to Sunday.
Hammersmith and Fulham, be among Haringey, which is taking over an old
them? When I suggested an allotment plan council run greenhouse to teach people how
For Dining Room reservations please call 020 7522 7896 or email Catering at the Whitechapel Gallery is provided by they told me it was legally worrying and to grow and propagate.
dining@whitechapelgallery.org, 77-82 Whitechapel High Street, London, Vacherin – winners of the 2009 Sustainable Food
E1 7QX, www.whitechapelgallery.org/dine Award. For more information visit www.vacherin.com
might take several years.
All in all, the Capital Growth programme FOR MORE
Louise Vaughan from the Spitalfields estate has supported the creation of almost
was one of the successful applicants for 100 spaces (well exceeding the target of 50) DETAILS SEE:
financial backing. She said: “18 months ago, in its first stage, and is now preparing to www.capitalgrowth.org
we felt that there was a need for a growing take on the next 1900 odd. Phew!
programme. We went ahead and there was
a big response. Now, through Capital By Michael Wale

Michael Wale is presenting The Food Show at 3pm on Sunday


24 May on LBC 97.3 FM, and will be covering Capital Growth.
16/17
ADVERTISEMENT MEMBER FEATURE

Alex Smith
AL AR A
M UE SL I
FOOD TOURISM
DAYS OUT IN Alex Smith, London Food Link member and
THE ‘GARDEN founder of Alara Muesli, speaks to Michael
OF ENGLAND’
Dees about the green and pleasant land
As little as 40 minutes from London, lies the
idyllic ‘Garden of England’. Produced in Kent which surrounds his factory in King’s Cross.
PRODUCED IN KENT has created a stunning series of days out to
help city dwellers experience the delights of
the county and its coastline with its FREE
OPENS THE GATES TO THE ‘trail’ series. > What are your aims with Alara? > Is there anything that has really
Integrating the old with the new. Making a worked, or really hasn't worked?
> What are your future plans (at least
the ones that aren't confidential)?
‘GARDEN OF ENGLAND’ There are six fascinating trail guides
covering Kent’s most historic and
thriving food and drink industries entitled:
transition from an old way of having a food In 1995 we decided that our strength was I'm inspired by the history of this area, where
business to suit the food models that are in muesli. Trying to do too many things didn't Boadicea was defeated by the Romans, where
A decade ago a small but passionate not-for-profit organisation began coming – and doing it in a sustainable way. really work. Roman culture and Christianity were first
beating a little drum in the county of Kent to encourage people to buy APPLE SOURCE established, and where the industrial revolution
> Who set it up and when? > What feedback have you began. We have two hectares of land which is
regionally and seasonally grown food and drink from the ‘Garden of England’. CHERRY RIPE NEW had about your work? just rough - we found 200 needles! The way
I started Alara in 1975. I had been living
HOPS & DOWNS without any money and found two pound notes I have become a London Leader, which to tackle this is to get wide community
Ten years on, Produced in Kent represents MAKING A DIFFERENCE RED, WHITE & BRUT in the gutter. Using a friend's Morris Minor, I involves acting as an exemplar for involvement, including BTCV Green Gym
farmers, producers, vineyards, retailers and Produced in Kent’s team are dedicated to went to Covent Garden and filled the pick up sustainability. I'm working on a plan to develop (a scheme which encourages people to
SHEEP AHOY
restaurateurs who between them are serving up promoting the very best Kent has to offer and truck with thrown away fruit and vegetables the first community anaerobic digester in improve their health by volunteering on
some of the most innovative, environmentally- when you buy locally the benefits are there for all SOUL TO SOLE NEW from the bins. These were sold from an empty Europe. This will take four tonnes of waste environmental projects), the council, schools,
friendly food and drink - from buzzing Kentish to see, says Julie Monkman: “Not only are you dairy that we were squatting in, and that's how every week from Alara, Booker and other local the local college and the King’s Cross Terra
honey, through to original hand made cheese, Each trail features details of the best pro-
chutney and chocolate, and delicious, creative wines,
getting fresher, healthier produce and better value it started. businesses and houses, and turn it into gas, Madre group. I recently worked out that I have
for money in a tough economic climate, you’ll be ducers, retailers and restaurateurs in each
ciders and fruit juices. which can be used to generate electricity and about a billion seconds left to live and I’m
doing your bit for the planet by reducing food sector, with the guide including a stunning
> What have your recent heat, plus digestate, a soil conditioner which determined to make every one count!
miles and packaging. So Produced in Kent's walk or bike ride, the fascinating social and
FOOD & DRINK HEROES members' produce will not only taste good, you’ll local history and a delicious recipe to try developments been? will be used in a greenhouse to produce food
Producers, retailers and restaurateurs are leading feel good about yourself too!” when you get back home. We've just planted the biggest vineyard for the community.
the way in innovation in Kent with 13 cream of the in London, bringing the land around our factory
crop producers awarded Taste of Kent awards WHERE CAN I BUY? As Produced in Kent manager Julie into food use and extending into the > Has anyone been inspired to run
this Spring. Butterfly Meadow of Whitstable has The great news is you don’t have to visit Kent to Monkman said, “This is what we call ‘Food surrounding area near St Pancras Old Church, their own version of what you do?
been acknowledged as producing the county’s source some of the finest and original food and Tourism’, but it’s much greener than jumping
which is said to have inspired Blake's It's happening everywhere! People are getting
‘Best Innovative Product’ - a delicious healthy fruit drink of the county. Many of London’s most on a plane to experience a tropical fruit
Jerusalem. We planted 100 fruit trees and hold of the concept of how important local
snack called ‘Fruit Leather’ with no added sugar enlightened retailers are stocking Produced in salad! If you pay a visit to Kent this summer
or additives. you’ll be contributing to the local economy at lunch I spent half an hour weeding food delivery systems are going to be and that,
Kent members’ produce – just look out for the the strawberry beds, which was a good break rather than valuing working with a computer
famous icon of Kent – the oast house logo. in the beautiful ‘Garden of England’. Every
Meanwhile, The Chapel Press in Burmash is now £10 you spend in the county with a local from the computer. and going to a gym, it's better to spend less
known as the producer of the ‘Best Food & Drink producer or farm shop, is worth £25 to the time on a computer and more time exercising
Product’ in Kent when the family-run local area compared to just £14, when spent in a garden growing food.
farm became the first to produce and bottle in the supermarket. Added to that you’ll
rapeseed oil after reading about the “fantastic be helping to sustain the rural economy and
health benefits and superb cooking qualities keep the countryside flourishing in Kent.”
of rapeseed oil”.
“We've just planted the biggest vineyard in London, bringing
the land around our factory into food use and extending into
For more information contact: Available from Tourist the surrounding area near St Pancras Old Church.”
Julie Monkman T: 01732 853170
E: julie.monkman@producedinkent.co.uk Offices across Kent,
www.producedinkent.co.uk you can also download
the free guides from
www.producedinkent.co.uk
CONTACT!
www.alara.co.uk T:020 7387 9303 ©Pamela Troni
Supported by Kent County Council and Hadlow College. Images provided by WAC PR and Marketing.
18/19
www.wahaca.co.uk

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Thank you to Sustain and the Jellied Eel for


For more information London Food Link
c/o Sustain, 94 White Lion Street, London N1 9PF

your constant support, good advice and for


helping to make wahaca a restaurant striving
for the best sustainable principles. Good luck
visit us online at:
with continuing the work and we look forward
to doing lots more with you in the future. www.londonfoodlink.org 20/21
DIARY
MAY 2009
8th - 11th May, The Real Food Festival
Three day festival showcasing producers from the UK and abroad, plus
captivating real food debates, real bread, cookery demonstrations, the
Rude Health Speakers corner and lots more. www.realfoodfestival.co.uk
uld you
Want to find out more Wo o s tock
like ts of the
8th-9th May, The Good Food Festival (European)
about Sustainable Food? The final Good Food Festival will be celebrating the best of European
food that London has to offer at Church Street Market, Westminster.

copie d Eel
Writtle College offers an exciting range of brand new www.goodfoodfestival.org
Sustainable Food Management Courses, including

Jellie ine?
BSc (Hons) Sustainable Food Management* 13th May, Make the Marine Bill Count - Lobbying Event
FdSc Sustainable Food Management The Marine Conservation Society is gathering support to lobby MPs and

magaz
Higher Certificate Food Studies call for a stronger Marine Bill to protect wildlife. The meeting will take
place at Central Hall Westminster. www.mcsuk.org
For further details or to register for the next
Open Day, please call 01245 424200,
Compost
18th - 24th May, Vegetarian Week
your Food t:
Contac foodlink@
email food@writtle.ac.uk or
See p8 for details of London events, or www.vegsoc.org/nvw
visit www.writtle.ac.uk
Waste with
*This course allows a choice
A Social Enterprise 19th May - Community food feast for London, l o n d o n w e b . o rg
sustain
of specialist pathways 0.30 - 1.30PM, Dragon Hall, Covent Garden
WKDWRӽHUVMORE than just an Celebrating all the inspirational work of community food projects across of
ull list
environmental solution.
London, including a free seasonal lunch and a cookery demo from top
For a f s t s visit:
London Chef Cyrus Todiwala of CafÈ Spice Namaste.
our sto
c k i e l . o rg
Contact Hannah@sustainweb.org or Suzanne@sustainweb.org
he jelliede
TEL: 0845 337 2939 21st May, Proper Oils - Refinery Launch Event
www.t
www.aardvarkrecycling.org.uk Proper Oils collect used cooking oil from caterers in London, refine it into the
highest quality biodiesel and supply it to local organisations. They are holding a
launch event to celebrate the opening of their new refinery and welcome anyone
that is interested to come to Twickenham to learn more. www.properoils.co.uk
30,000 copies
JUNE 2009
in circulation
C AT E R E R
6th June, Keeping Chickens Course at Hackney City Farm
This one day course will cover the basics of keeping your own chickens
and will help you to plan your own brood. Booking is essential -
please visit www.hackneycityfarm.co.uk
,
6th June, Ten year Anniversary of London Farmers Markets
,
Fayre and picnic on Islington green, including farmers market and
plant swap www.lfm.org.uk. See p4 for more information. SPONSORED BY

ISSUE 24
2009
SUMMER

12th June, Compost Clinic and Recycling Network FREE


Visitors have the opportunity to learn about making their own compost,
greening their shopping habits and getting the facts straight on confusing
packaging labels. This event is organised by Redbridge Recycling Team.
www.lovelondon.org.uk/page/47/show/2265

14th June, Garden Plant Fair at Islington Farmers Market


This is an excellent opportunity to purchase healthy fruit, vegetable and
herb plants reared by local plant nurseries in a series of events organised
by London Farmersí Markets. www.lfm.org.uk London goes
JULY 2009 veggie for
1st - 31st July Eat Your Art Out
A month-long celebration of food and art in over 100 eateries on
a week
Kingsland Road, Hackney.www.alternativearts.co.uk 10 YEARS of farmers’
markets in London
4th July, Seed Saving Course

BEST TRAITEUR
Learn how to save seed from your crops for next year or to BOTANICAL RESTAURANT SAF * REAL BREAD CAMPAIGN * LONDON’S LOCAL PRODUCERS

swap with your friends on this one day course in Waltham Forest .
www.walthamforestclass.gov.uk NEXT ISS
UE
19th July, The Big Lunch AUG 200
Sit down and enjoy lunch with your neighbours as part of The Big Lunch,
9
HELEN@HANDMADEFOOD.COM, TEL: 020 8297 9966 which aims to see millions of people across the UK eating together.
Visit the website to find out what is happening in your borough or
register your street for a meal. www.thebiglunch.com 22/23
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