Professional Documents
Culture Documents
OPINION
BLACK
HISTORY
MONTH
RAVENOUS
BELLE & DON
PREMIER
LEAGUE
Paul Robinson talks
about producing
lingerie for the UKs
top football clubs
NEW
PRODUCTS
LFW
MADE IN
THE UK
We reveal why British
manufacture is set for
a resurgence
RISE OF THE
FRANCHISE
Learn what the
franchise business
model can do for you
BREAST CANCER
AWARENESS MONTH
Find out which brands are
supporting the fight against
breast cancer
UK
WE BR
T H E S I N G YO U
EPT
2011 S E M B E R
H I G H L H OW
IGHTS
AWARDS
Lingerie Insight
introduces you to the
winners and finalists
of this years glittering
event at One Mayfair
47
FRONT
News Review
A round-up of this months lingerie and swimwear news.
First Stitch
We take a look at the work of LCF student Charini Suriyage.
10
11
14
ON THE COVER
14
UK Lingerie Awards
Read our exclusive coverage of the 2011 UK Lingerie Awards.
26
Premier League
Paul Robinson speaks on intimate apparel and football.
30
32
Made in the UK
LI reports on intimate apparel manufacturing in the UK.
36
38
41
42
REGULARS
45
46
10
26
32
36
42
Object of Desire
The high end piece that has the industry talking this month.
Products Showcase
An inspirational selection of new lingerie and swimwear.
www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
COMMENT
OCTOBER COVER
Cover: By Caprice
Model wears: Morticia bodysuit
Photographer: Rachell Smith
Model: Caprice Bourret
212223-012012
THE
FAMOUS
WORLD
OF INTIMATES
www.lingerie-paris.com
NEWS IN BRIEF
NEWS IN QUOTE S
GR ADUATE FOCUS
VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY
SPE AKERS CORNER
CALENDAR
WEB HIGHLIGHTS
6
7
8
10
11
11
12
achell Smith, a
former photographic
assistant at Rankin
Photography, has
collaborated with By Caprice to
produce the brands new SS12
imagery.
The photographer, who has reportedly shot for the likes of Elle,
Tatler and Vogue, shot the collection at a studio in Shoreditch. It is
her second ever campaign.
Shes just massive right now,
said By Caprice owner, designer
and model Caprice Bourret.
independents nationwide.
By Caprice has also taken on
a big, new mystery stockist, who
Bourret states will help raise the
companys profi le to an entirely
new level. The retailer is currently launching brands in its stores
and By Caprice will be the only
lingerie brand.
For AW11, By Caprice will
be expanding worldwide and
entering into the hosiery and
sleepwear sectors. Th is Valentines Day, it will also be launching a new campaign, featuring
FOR IMAGES OF THE SS12 COLLECTIONS AND DAILY BREAKING NEWS VISIT
www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
NEWS REVIEW
Wacoal lingerie brand b.temptd
launched on fi gleaves.com last
month.
The site is showcasing mainly
basic signature styles, with several fashion colours being added
later in the season.
The collection seeks to incorporate a winter inspired colour
palette and delicate lace details
with Wacoal signature fit and
quality.
Wacoal sales & marketing
manager Susan Bradley said: I
am very excited to be further
expanding the b.temptd brand
by launching it on fi gleaves.com,
which has already had much
success with our Wacoal brand.
NEWS IN QUOTES
INNOVATIVE SHAPEWEAR
BY
17498+14390
NEWS REVIEW
FIRST STITCH
STORE ENVY
Avenue on September 8.
stockroom.
CHRISTINE PARISH
Owner, softly softly
y name is Christine
bras. There, my
had to.
DB Apparel UK is supporting
retailers, this winter, by launching a price freeze on all product
lines.
The company, whose brands
include Wonderbra, Playtex and
Shock Absorber, has made the
decision to keep prices static
until Autumn/Winter 2012.
DBA general manager Paul
Devin said: Coming from a
sales background myself, I know
how important it is to support
the trade. As well as the twoseason price freeze, we are committing to a significant media
spend for a second year running,
with the aim of encouraging
more consumer footfall into
store to fi nd great product at
affordable prices.
perhaps.
10
NEWS REVIEW
SPEAKERS CORNER
DIARY DATES
18-19th October, Arts Hotel, Barcelona. The second edition of
Anteprima Barcelona will take
place a month prior to the Mare
di Moda|Intimo di Moda event.
The exclusive meeting seeks to
put a selection of companies exhibiting in Cannes in touch with
the leading Iberian beachwear
manufacturers.
18-19th October, Shanghai Exhibi-
LYDIA LEONG
founder,
Jamu Australia
GARRY HOGARTH
chief executive,
Agent Provocateur
LEANNE BROOKE
founder,
Obey My Demand
NEWS FLASH
For more
news visit
www.lingerieinsight.com
11
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
EDITORS CHOICE
UK Lingerie Awards
celebrates the best of 2011
American Apparel model
search is butt of joke
GALLERY
COLLECTION
GALLERY: Winners of UK
Lingerie Awards 2011
VIDEO
NEWS
Nichole de Carle
LFW party
LINGERIE TWEETS
12
mansion
beyond our room for Mondays
man
nsio
sion b
shoot. Must
Muss start scouting estates or
making
rich
m ing ric
mak
c friends.
ass.
@ToadLillie
@ToadL
adLii
@jenettebras
Hey
y SPAN
S
SPANX
P N fans! Today is the first day of
season?
@SPANXinc
@lingerie_addict
1
UK Lingerie Awards
guests raise their
glasses at the event
3
Violinists provide
entertainment at
One Mayfair
2
The UK Lingerie
Awards 2011 venue,
One Mayfair
4
UK Lingerie Awards
trophies
14
15
WINNER: LASCIVIOUS
Founded in 2004 by creative director
Chloe Hamblen, Lascivious has rapidly
transformed into the independent
directional brand of choice for many
celebrities and wealthy consumers.
With celebrities, such as Jessie J and Keri
Hilson, donning its pieces and its entry
into Harrods, this season, 2011 has been
an incredibly successful year for the
designer brand.
For AW11, the label will be designing
three limited edition pieces, which
will be handmade and embellished
with hundred of Swarovski crystals to
complement the department stores
Christmas theme.
The brand will also be stocked again
in Selfridges, where it launched in AW10
and for which it is also designing an
FINALISTS
SADIE THE BRA LADY: This iconic
retailer operates four stores and has
received more awards than many
businesses have years. Its catchphrase
is: Most techniques are still based
upon 150 year old guidelines. Bras have
changed, womens expectations have
changed, women themselves have
changed. Sadies have simply had the
foresight to change with them.
WINNER: MYLA
British lingerie brand Myla celebrated
its 10th anniversary at the end of last
year. Over the past decade, the concept
of designing luxury lingerie for modern
women has proved to be a winning
formula for the brand, which counts
Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Claudia
Schiffer and Lily Cole among its fans.
Today, Myla is one of the UKs leading
luxury lingerie brands with 12 boutiques
and concessions, most recently a new
FINALISTS
LA PERLA: See p.19
LISE CHARMEL: One of Frances
biggest luxury brands and present for
several years in the UK market, Lise
Charmel is now aiming to expand its
network with selective partners.
WINNER: LA SENZA
(CUP SIZE CHOIR)
La Senzas Cup Size Choir video
received over 1.8 million hits on
You Tube in under two weeks.
The video, which launched on
December 1, was the brands first
ever interactive Christmas viral. It
LASCIVIOUS (RANKIN
CAMPAIGN): Renowned fashion
photographer Rankin took a series
of photographs for luxury brand
Lascivious SS11 campaign.
FINALISTS
G=9.8: A brand that designs sexy
WINNER: SWEETLING
LINGERIE
WHOMADEYOURPANTS?: A
worker co-op, specifically formed to
empower marginalised women.
www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
17
FINALISTS
JONATHAN ASTON: Jonathan Aston, which was founded in Leicester in
1965, produces classic sheers, funky fishnets, fabulous laces, bold stripes and
bright opaques. It is owned by the Melas Group and is a Gold Partner, and
Sponsor, of this years UK Lingerie Awards.
PRETTY POLLY: Producing high quality hosiery since 1919, the brand is
synonymous with innovative marketing campaigns and has recently formed
collaborations with the likes of celebrity designer Henry Holland.
FINALISTS
FLEXEES BY MAIDENFORM:
Flexees by Maidenforms shapewear
collection combines slimming looks
and shapes with comfortable support.
by a significant marketing
campaign and investment.
By the end of the year, CK One
is expected to represent about 10
percent of the brands total mens
underwear business.
FINALISTS
2(X)IST: Founded in 1991, 2(X)ist
combines fashion with contoured
shape and superior function.
WINNER: LA PERLA
Luxury lingerie brand La Perla has
enjoyed a very successful year. It
achieved a high level of global acclaim
for its SS11 collaboration with Jean
Paul Gaultier, Collection Createur,
which was worn in a series of fashion
magazines by the likes of Victoria
FINALISTS
CURVY KATE: See p.18
TRIUMPH: The brand celebrated
125 years in the business in 2011 with
Vintage, Essence and Shape Sensation.
www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
19
WINNER: AGENT
PROVOCATEUR
Agent Provocateur is well
recognised for its luxuriously
naughty product offering and
outstanding service, but it is also
one of the few retailers in the
intimate apparel market which is
seeking to expand in the current
economic climate.
Agent Provocateur has
announced that it is planning to
double its number of stores around
the world over the next five years.
The lingerie company currently
has 55 stores, including its
franchise outlets, and will be
opening the new stores at an
average rate of around 11 a year.
Agent Provocateur will be
primarily concentrating on the
US, Chinese and Russian markets,
but it also opened its first store in
FINALISTS
BRAVISSIMO: Sarah Tremellen set
up Bravissimo in 1995, following her
FINALISTS
LASCIVIOUS: See p.16
OBEY MY DEMAND: See p.22
FINALISTS
ANITA CARE: Anita Care offers a wide range of comfort bras designed
especially for meeting the special needs and wishes of women who have
undergone breast surgery. All bras are made of soft, skin friendly material
and feature a slightly higher cut, stretch neckline and a wide, softly elastic
underband, which holds the breast form fi rmly in place.
FINALISTS
HOTMILK: HOTmilk was founded in New Zealand
by Lisa Ebbing and Ange Crosbie, after Ebbing fell
pregnant with her first child and could not find any
bras that she wanted to wear. The brand aims to offer
sexy, fun and practical maternity lingerie for pre and
post natal mothers.
21
FINALISTS
NICOLE GILL: Nicole Gill Lingerie
specialises in lingerie and steel boned
corsets. All pieces are handmade by Gill
in the UK.
WINNER: MARYAN
MEHLHORN
FINALISTS
MELISSA ODABASH: The brand
22
FINALISTS
FREYA ACTIVE: Freya Active
features an innovative and ultra
supportive range of sports bras and
shorts. The collection offers a choice
of soft cup and wired sports bras up to
an H cup in an array of colours.
WINNER: FIGLEAVES
It has been a busy year for online lingerie and swimwear
retailer Figleaves, which receives visits from over 1.2
million customers, each month, and delivers from its
warehouse in the UK to over 100 countries.
The company, which is owned by N Brown, started off
the year with a bang after it was voted the top e-commerce
website over the Christmas season by eDigital and was
given special notice for its customer service.
It has since not rested on its laurels, but has introduced a
series of new initiatives, this year, including a massive tube
poster campaign, the launch of its Fashion Outlet on eBay
and participation in a race in aid of Cancer Research UK.
The management structure of the online retailer
changed in July on the departure of former chief
executive Julia Reynolds, with commercial director
Melanie Cottrell, operations manager Stephanie Chase
and product and brand director Sue Herrick stepping up
to cover the role.
COMMENTS
John Roskalns, Managing Director of the Melas Group, Gold
Partner and Sponsor of the UK Lingerie Awards: It was a great
night. We were delighted to be a sponsor and the organisation and
execution of the evening was first rate - well done Lingerie Insight!
Richard Ellis, Business Development Manager of
SpeedoSculpture, Gold Partner and Sponsor of the UK Lingerie
Awards: I can only mirror the comment by John Roskalns.
SpeedoSculpture were also delighted with the evening and were
also proud to be a sponsor of the inaugural event. It was great to
see the industry celebrate the successes of so many brands, and I
would like to congratulate the award winners. We look forward to
seeing everyone at next years event.
Claire Franks, Founder of Intimate Apparel Consultancy and a
UK Lingerie Awards judge: Great venue, great night and above all
amazing company!
FINALISTS
FOX & ROSE: Th is dynamic online boutique allows
designers to showcase their creations in an optimal
setting, using videos alongside comprehensive product
information and fit, and a vibrant trend-focused blog.
FINALISTS
DEBENHAMS: With the second greatest share of the lingerie market after
M&S, the retailers offerings includes own brand Gorgeous, B by Ted Baker,
Wonderbra, Freya, Ultimo, Reger by Janet Reger, Triumph and Gossard.
JOHN LEWIS: This year, John Lewis has introduced brands including
Pistol Panties, Zoggs and Sweetling Lingerie. In December, 2010, John
Lewis announced its biggest ever trading week with sales of 121m.
www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
23
24
Celebrity Guests
1
Actress Louisa
Lytton, Radio 1
actress and model
Alana MacFarlane
and friend
2
By Caprice founder
Caprice and
Lingerie Insight
sales manager
Andrew Martyniuk
3
Nichole de Carle
and Dirty Sexy
Things Charlotte
de Carle
4
Louisa Lytton and
the Abraham sisters
5
Former Big Brother
star and model
Imogen Thomas
Venue
3
1
UK Lingerie Awards
2011 venue
2
Violinists perform
at the prestigious
event
3
Awards stage at
2
One Mayfair
www.lingerieinsight.com / OCTOBER 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT
25
Premier
LEAGUE
PREMIER LINGERIE CO-FOUNDER AND
DIRECTOR PAUL ROBINSON TALKS
EXCLUSIVELY TO LINGERIE INSIGHT ABOUT
HIS NEW COMPANY, WHICH DEVELOPS
LINGERIE FOR PREMIER LEAGUE FOOTBALL
CLUBS, AND REVEALS HIS PLANS TO EXPAND
THE BUSINESS OVER THE COMING YEAR.
1
Top and shorts
in Newcastle
United colours and
featuring the clubs
logo
26
2
Close up of
Newcastle United
bra with central
logo at the bust
3
Newcastle United
www.lingerieinsight.com // OCTOBER
OCTOBER 2011
2011 // LINGERIE
LINGERIE INSIGHT
INSIGHT
www.lingerieinsight.com
27
6, 7 & 8
Chemise and
lingerie sets in black
and white from
Premier Lingeries
new range for
Newcastle United
28
28
LA SENZA
This October, Paloma Faith and La Senza have designed a unique
collection of vintage-inspired underwear and sleepwear to raise
funds and awareness for Breast Cancer Care. The exclusive
range aims to help support the 50,000 people diagnosed with
breast cancer every year in the UK.
A donation from every La Senza product purchased will go
towards Breast Cancer Care.
Paloma Faith said:Im really excited about my range of lingerie that Ive designed for Breast Cancer Care this year. Ive gone
for a luxurious 1940s style and I cant wait for you all to see it! Its
going to hit La Senza stores in October and every penny we raise
will be used to help people affected by breast cancer. My mum
had breast cancer so this is a cause I am very passionate about.
The Paloma Faith range will be available in La Senzas top 30
stores and online from the 1st October, 2011.
30
ROYCE LINGERIE
PAMELA MANN
erie
Wirefree bra manufacturer Royce Lingerie
ng
every Chloe mastectomy bra sold during
October.
er
contributing 1 to Against Breast Cancer
Prices start at 9 for a pair of tights and for each sale Pamela
cer Campaign.
Pink Ribbon Lingerie donates 10 percent of sales to breast cancer charities all year
round. Customers can choose to donate to Breast Cancer Care, Against Breast Cancer
or the National Hereditary Breast Cancer Helpline. They can also receive 5 off their
cancer.
The brands pink post-surgery products include a Lara t-shirt and jersey nightdress.
MARLIES DEKKERS
Dutch lingerie brand Marlies Dekkers has
as
gn.
created a new Pink Ribbon lingerie design.
oThe set comes in hot pink and incorporates the brands Delft Blue print. It also
features a charm shaped like a pink ribh.
bon, the symbol of Breast Cancer Month.
Part of the proceeds from the set will
go towards fighting breast cancer, a
cause for which designer Marlies
Dekkers has been a long standing
supporter.
DEBENHAMS
Debenhams has supported the Breast Cancer Campaign for the
past 10 years as a result of the department stores fundraising,
the charity has been able to fund 68 research projects across the
UK and Ireland.
Taking part for the 11th consecutive year, Debenhams will be offering lingerie sets, accessories and winter knits, with 25 percent
from every sale and 1 from every bra being donated to charity.
31
MADE IN
OVER RECENT YEARS, THE MADE IN THE UK LABEL HAS BENEFITED
FROM AN INCREASED RARITY VALUE. BUT, AS THE COST OF
LABOUR ABROAD CONTINUES TO SOAR, WE TALK TO A FEW OF
THE REMAINING INTIMATE APPAREL MANUFACTURERS IN THE
COUNTRY TO DISCOVER WHETHER UK INDUSTRY COULD BE SET
TO STAGE A COMEBACK.
32
1
Andrea Billard
striped body,
manufactured by
Garment Studio
2
The team at AJM
Sewing
3
Interior of AJM
Sewing factory in
South Wales
4&5
Sta at work at AJM
Sewing
33
34
6
Giso stocking on
the catwalk
7
Ell & Cee, made at
8
Nichole de Carle
studio
9
A worker at AJM
sewing in Wales
35
London
Week
We bring you the news from a selection of exhibitors at last months London Fashion Week,
based in Somerset House, London.
EXHIBITOR SNIPPETS
Marlies Dekkers
played a new
video at its London
Fashion Week
stand, this year,
showcasing its new
SS12 collection.
Lingerie brand
Damaris
presented new
short film Packing
Heat, featuring
Liberty Ross, at
Somerset House,
last month.
37
S
U
O ON
N
E &D
V
RA LE
N
J OO NEW
R
O
T
OU
N,
ECT
D I R HT AB & D O
E
V
E
G
ATI
EL L
NS
N SI
CRE ERIE I OUS B ONDO
E
T
G
L
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NET O LIN RAVE H ON
NO
T
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S
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I
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M
L
MO
CT
MA UE TA
LLE L A S T
O
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ER
HA
NCH EET.
IGN
DES H LAU
S TR
IC
IAL
C
WH
R
E
MM
CO
L
E
B
1
View from outside
the Ravenous Belle
& Don store
2
Scarves by designer
Arlette Ess
3
Candy Baker
Hosiery design
4
Accessories by Ma
Mignonette
5
Movie projection
on interior wall
38
6
In
nternal ima ge of
th
he Ravenous B ellle
7
& D on shop
7
T he Bird
d s vissual
lii ght disspla
ay
8
Jew
welllery
y sh
howcasee
at Rav
venous B elle
& D on
39
UK lingerie industry?
What
know
you
dont?
W h at do
d o tthey
hey k
n ow tthat
h at y
ou d
ont?
To ask, or
not to ask?
TO ASK, OR NOT TO ASK? QUESTIONS SADIA SISAY, FOUNDER OF NEW LINGERIE BRAND BEING U, AS SHE TAKES THE OPPORTUNITY DURING BLACK
HISTORY MONTH TO DISCUSS THE LACK OF CHOICE ON THE HIGH STREET
FOR WOMEN OF COLOUR.
well-known depart-
Th ank you.
decorative bow
detail
2
Nude set from core
cotton collection
spot range
briefs in orange
cotton collection
being U co-founder
Sadia Sisay
41
Rise of the
Franchise
42
and expensive,
requiring further
capital to fi nance
new outlets.
Management
also becomes
more difficult, particularly if the business is widely spread geographically.
Quicker expansion
Franchising can enable a single site
company to establish a national presence relatively quickly, achieving a
rate of network growth that would
be otherwise unattainable. Far fewer
resources are required to help open
a franchised outlet than a companyowned store, as the franchisee funds
the premises and fit-out, recruits and
trains the staff , and implements the
local marketing campaign.
Motivated management
Each franchise store will be under the
ownership of an individual with specialist local market knowledge who is
in essence their own boss. Their earnings depend upon the success of their
store, as opposed to a salaried manager
whose earnings are largely unrelated to
performance.
Agent Provocateurs
own store in
Rodeo Drive sets
the standard for
franchisees to follow
2
Increasing numbers
of businesses are
being attracted
Capital return
Whilst franchisees will pay an initial
investment to purchase a franchise,
which will cover the costs of recruitment, training and launch, the main
financial incentive will be the ongoing management service fee. This is a
percentage of the franchisees turnover,
paid to cover the costs of ongoing support, product research and development, national marketing campaigns,
to the potential
profitability of the
franchise model
3
Shaw Stapely of
Thomas Egger LLP
4
Baci Lingerie
franchise store
43
5
A Wolford store ,
which could soon
be emulated by
franchisees around
the world
44
Object of
45
SHOWCASE / LINGERIE
RASPBERRY COLOURWAY BY
ANITA MATERNITY
huit.com
anita.com
46
SWIMWEAR / SHOWCASE
AVALON BY ZOGGS
Avalon is part of Zoggs new cup sized
collection for ladies blessed with a fuller
bust. The Avalon bikini top comes in a
Japanese floral fan print with surplice
neckline and foam cups for shape and
support. It is available in black, jade and
purple print in Zoggs Elastomax fabric. It
can be mix and matched with the brands
BIRDS OF A FEATHER BY KOOEY
zoggs.com
RRP: 330
Contact: Wolford,
wolford.com
47
1
4
1
ard
James Goddard
receives the
mer
Male Swimmer
of the Year
Award at the
rds
Splash Awards
STA
from INVISTA
ing
marketing
ger
manager
can
Michele Duncan
2, 3, 4, 5, 6
By Caprice
launch party
7, 8, 9, 10
Nichole de
Carle pop up
party at Lingerie
Collective
48
10
/ ISSUE 01
MARCH 2010
.com
ionalje weller
www.p rofess
BUSIN E S S
PROFE S SIONA
& SWIMW E AR
FOR LINGE RIE
INTELL IGENC E
LS
E RY
L ERY
FOR JEW ELL
S AND TRE NDS
NEW S , ANA LYSI
01
VOLUME 02 / ISSUE
JANUARY 2011 /
ight.com
www.lin gerieins
D IS
TH E WO RLGH
NO T EN OU
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EXCLUS IVW
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INTE RV
reveals hes
CH OC OL AT E
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with our
into your stock
Breat he new life
at Sprin g Fair
to all thats fresh
ultim ate guide
INT EL LIG
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Officially
suppo
British Floris rted by the
t Association
NEWS
REVI EW
IN DU ST
ANALYSRY
IS
LATE ST
PRODUC
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DE BATE
STAR
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be gone but
Cou tts may
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tak e at
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