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may try to sew such as tops (called Kosode) or
Kimono.
Now that you have a rough idea as to what size
panel you will be cutting out lets cover a few terms
in reference to measurements that you will also
need.
Inseam (B)- Measurement that goes from the crotch
of your pants down to your
ankle where you want the
pants to end. Most American
Mens pants use this
measurement.
Length of the leg(A)- Measure
from where you would like your
waistband to sit to your ankle
or where the pants should end.
Rise (C)- Measuring this
requires flossing a bit. This is the
measurement that goes from your
waistband in front to the waistband in
the back via between the legs. To
do this place the tape measure
between your legs and pull up
GENTLY (injuries caused by this
motion are not my responsibility).
Place the beginning of the tape
measure in the middle of your back
where you would like your waistband
to lay. Then place the other end of the tape
measure in front of you on your front waistband. If
you have a friend that is very close they may be
willing to take this measurement for you.
Waist- Place the tape measure where you want the
waistband to be. Some people wear their pants
above or below their natural waist. Do not squeeze
the tape measure to make yourself feel better about
your size, be honest with yourself and it will make
for clothes that fit you properly in the end.
Now that you have taken your measurements its
time to start laying out and cutting your fabric.
All
that you are doing so far is cutting out a lot of
rectangles. Thats not so hard, is it?
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Assembly
Start by sewing the 8 panels together in pairs
lengthwise.
Take one left angle pair and one right angle pair
and place them with the outsides in and the angles
on the same sides. (#1 attaches to #8, #4 attaches
to #5)
The Crotch
Now, sew the crotch panels together so that it
creates a long strip with a seam running down the
width in the middle. This will create a strip that is a
half panel wide by two leg lengths long.
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the inside of your other leg and ends at the ankle. I
usually cut these a little long so I need to remove
excess fabric at the hem, but I would rather do that
then have to patch in a piece or have extremely
short pants.
Take a moment and look at what you have sewn so
far. Make sure that the pattern of your fabric is
going the right direction on all panels. Make sure
that all seams meet up in the crotch and that there
are no holes. If you have
done everything correctly
This is how long you will sew down in the center
you should have a
front and the center back. Fold your hakama so that frightening looking garment
the angles are on the outsides. Meet up the two
that resembles clown
front pieces at the middle. (In the drawing you are
pants. Dont worry, theyll
meeting up panel #2 with panel #3) Measure down get smaller! Which brings
the length described above (12 for Seimei) and
us to our next step
sew together. Do the same for the center back
pieces (#6 and #7). Note that you may want to
The Front Pleats
really reinforce this seam as it may take some
This is another step that many people are
stress. All eight panels will be attached to one
intimidated by but really isnt so bad. This may take
another in some fashion after this step.
a little bit of patience, adjusting, and pins. Hakama
traditionally had only 4 or 6 pleats in the front.
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When I first started sewing these I was used to
sewing huge Western European skirts with many
pleats so I way overdid it and wondered why they
didnt look right. The pleats will go toward the
center seam, so your right pleats will be folded the
opposite of your left pleats. The entire width of the
front of the pants at the waist should be about one
standard panel wide. Some people are a little more
modest and want less of a gap on the sides. Just
measure how wide it should be in order to still have
a gap on the sides of roughly 3- 6 per side. The
Japanese in period tended to have a standard width
for all pants, but Id rather have them look as
though they fit correctly on the person and have the
person be comfortable in their garb. The gap is
what makes hakama look like hakama. If there is
no gap and your pants completely overlap they will
look like Thai fisherman pants rather than Japanese
pants.
Heres an example. Kiki is a very curvy SCAdian
woman. She has a 40 waist which puts her in the
large to extra large category making her standard
panel about 14. So she would have 28 total for
her front and back pieces leaving her a gap of 6 on
each side. (40- 28=12, divide by two and its 6)
This is fine. However, her hips are 50 and she is
self conscious about them. She may want to make
her front and back waists a little larger to give her a
smaller gap and a little more hip room.
Make your first pleat by grabbing a little way down
from the center seam at the top and fold towards
the center. There should be about a -1 space
between the center seam and the fold of the pleat.
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The Waistband
Congratulations! You are mostly done with your
hakama! Theres not much more to go and the
worst is over. Take a moment to pat yourself on the
back and take a deep breath.
To make the waist band I usually attach three strips
end to end for the front and two strips end to end for
the back. The back waistband will only need to
wrap around you once and tie in the front. The
front, however, wraps around to the back, crosses
over and then ties again in the front. (See Seimei
the Samurai Helps You to Get Dressed later in this
packet)
This works the best with an iron, trust me.
After sewing your two sets of strips iron your seam
allowance flat.
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Dont be surprised if after you have made a nice
pair of hakama that fit you well and make you look
fabulous that others may be asking you to make a
pair for them or to help them through the learning
process.
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Seimei the Samurai Helps you to Get Dressed
(Feel free to add your own notes to help you with the process.
5. Crisscross the
ties in the back.
1. Grab the
waistband of
the back of the
pants and bring
the end
forward.
6. Pull the ties to
the front.
7. Tie a bow.
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Basic Tips for Dressing in Japanese Garb
Usually a Japanese belt or sash known as an obi
(OH-BEE) is worn on top of the waistband and ties.
During period these were not terribly wide (2-5)
and tied in the front for both genders. It wasnt until
the Edo period (1603-1867) that womens obi
became too wide to tie in the front and they were
moved to the back. Men wearing an obi tied in the
back indicate that they are a homosexual or a
homosexual prostitute. Men wearing solid red
hakama were often homosexual as well. Solid red
monpei are okay.