RAD Béinbiples of N aval Architecture Second Revision Volume III + Motions in Waves and Controllability Edward V. Lewis, Editor Published by ‘The Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers 601 Pavonia Avenue Jersey City, NJPreface ‘The aim ofthis second revision (third edition ofthe Society's succesful Principles of Naval Architecture was to bring the subject matter up-to-date through revising fr rewriting areas of greatest recent technical advances, which meant that some chapters would require many more changes than others The basi objective of the book, however, remained unchanged: to provide a timely survey ofthe basic prin ciples in tho Held of naval architecture for the use of both students and active professionals, making clear that research and engineering are continuing in mont All branches of the subject, References to available sourees of additional detale ‘and to ongoing work tobe followed in the future are included "The preparation of this third edition wat simplified by an earlier decision te incorporate a number of sections into the companion SNAME publication, Ship Design and Construction, which was revised in 1980, The topics of Load Lines, ‘Tonnage Admeasurement and Launching seemed to be more appropriate for the latter book, and so Chapters V, VI, and XI became IV, V and XVII respectively, J Ship Design and Construction. This left eight chapters instead of 1, for the revised Principles of Naval Architecture, which has since become nine in three volumes. ‘At the outset of work on the revision, the Control Committee decided that the increasing importance of high-speed computers demanded that their use be dis cuseed in the individual chapters instead of in separate appendix as before It was also decided that throughout the book mare attention should be given to the rapidly developing advanood marine vehicles. Tn regard to units of measure, it was decided that the basi poliey would be te tse the International System of Unite (SI). Since this is a transition period conventional US. (or "English" units would be given in parentheses, where prac tical, throughout the book ‘This follows the practice adopted for the Society’ companion volume, Ship Design and Construction. The U.S. Metric Conversion Act of 1975 (PL. 94-168) declared a national policy of increasing the use of metric systems of measurement and eatablished the US. Metrie Board to coordinate voluntary conversion to S1. The Maritime Administration, assisted by a SNAME. ad hoe task group, developed a Metric Practice Guide to "help obtain uniform metric practice in the marine industry,” and this guide was used here as a baste Teference. Following this guide, ship displacement in metric tons (1000 kg) rep- resents mass rather than weight. (In this book the familiar symbol, A, is reserved for the displacement mass) When forces are considered, the corresponding unit is the kilonewton (kN), which applies, for example, to resistance and to displacement weight (symbol W, where W = pag) or to buoyaney forces, When conventional or English units are used, displacement weight is in the familiar long ton unit Continued)(22401, which numerically is L015 x metric ton. Power is usually in kilowatts (LEW = 1134 hp) A’conversion table also is included in the Nomenclature at the fend ofeach velime "The frst volume of the third edition of Principles of Naval Architectur, com: prising Chapters | through IV. deals with the essentially static principles o° naval Architecture, leaving dynamic aspeets to the remaining volumes. The socoad vol lune consists of Chapters V Resistance, VI Propulsion and VII Vibration, each of whieh has been extensively revised or rewritten, Volume II contains the two final chapters, VII Motions in Waves snd 1X Controllability. Because of important recent theoretical and experimental devel opments in there folds it was necessary to rewrite mort of both chapters and to Sid much new material, But the stateotthe-art continues to advance, and $0 fxlensive references to continuing work are included. November 1989 Baward V. Lewis ‘BatorTable of Contents Volume III Chapter 8 (VIED MOTIONS IN WAVES Rovesr F. Brox, Professor, Unversity of Michigan; WILLIAM B. Cuseans,** David Taylor Retearch Center, lorie F Daze, David Taylor Research Center; PHILP MANDEL” and WiLuaMt C, WetsTER, Profesor, University of California, Berkeley E Soest, i & Gontol of Ship Mecions £ Siphon ister Wave. 2 Sse SOY rm Chapter 920) (CONTROLLABILITY . LiNcoLn Caane,** Exxon Corporation; HARL20 BDA, Professor, Stovens Institute of Techndogy AusxanDeR C. Laxpssunc, US. Martine Administration 1 Iprogation m 9, Theoretical Preton of Design "Bgotions of ton se Rontiectons en 2 2. Math Sabie and 1p, accelesing Soxng ad Hacking 1 ear tone 185 Hy: AMioete fone syne Ea 4 anal of Coarse Kea Hk MaweF oe Eovecrment = ‘Conte rived Sanity se HE Vessel Waterway Interacts ZB 5 sully tol Conch a HE HSeayeacate a Coneet Series” & dae oP tng iy ae 18 Agee el and Pera find Hydrache Model 5, 16. Application to Design 8. Natl uatons iin 1, Biber of Ruaor ts Othe Conia Sepa Woks en a Bes Referee 8Acknowledgments In this Volume II, the Balitor wishes to thank the authors of Chapter VII Robert F. Beck, John F. Dalal, Philip Mandel and William C. Webster, for stepping into complete the chapter on Motions in Waves ater the untimely death of Wiliam E Cummine. He also acknowledges the valuable assistance of SNAME Y&K Yanel HLT (Seakeeping Characteristics) chaired by David D. Moran, in reviewing and commenting on early drafts of the chapter manuscript, Generous permission was {granted by D.C. Murdey and his associates in the National Research Council of Canada for us to publish excerpts from their valusble reports on a sories of model tests in ealm water and in waves, Drafting services were provided by Keith L, MacPhee ‘The Haltor also wishes to express his appreciation for John Nachtshein’s v vuable efots in guiding the completion of Chapter IX on Controllability, and to ‘Alexander Landshurg for joining in to assist the original two authors. All three ‘authors wish to acknowledge their indebtedness to Philip Mandel, the author of the corresponding chapter in the preceding edition, Extensive use has bee made of the original text and figures. The authors also wish to thank the members of Panel 1-10 (Ship Controllability) who provided useful comments, especially Abra: hham Taplin, Completion of this chapter was greatly faiitated by Roderick A. Barr, who assisted in organizing the chapter in its early stages, by the excellent techincal review and suggestions given by John A. Youngauist and by the drafting services of Robinson de la Cruz "The Control Committee provided estential guidance, aa well as valuable assist ‘ance in the early stages. Members are: John J. Naehtsheim, Chairman Thomas M. Buermann William A. Cleary, de Richard B: Couch Jerome L. Goldman Sacques B. adler Ronald K. Kiss Donald P. Roseman Stanley G. Stiansen Charles Zeien ‘The Balto wishes to thank all ofthe Volume III authors for their fine work and full cooperation in making suggested revisions. Finally, he acknowledges the in dispensable efforts of Trevor LewisJones in doing detelied editing and preparing {ent and Agures in proper (ormat for publication November 1989 BV. Lewis BaitorCHAPTER Vill Motions in Waves Section 1 Introduction’ 1. Ship motions a soa have aways been a problem for the naval srhieet His or her responsi hat Sen to itaure not only thatthe ship can safely Fl ‘atthe roughest storms but that can proceed 08 ourse under secere condone with a minimum of Asay or carry out olberpecemisions sucessful However the presi fas changed troogh the ear Saling vessels followed the prevaing winda--Colun bussed were onthe nortfeast tren and rode the prevaling westeles farther north on his return voy gen The cary eliper sigs and theater grain racers Hom Austral to barope made wide deur to take ‘dvantage ofthe rae winds. Ins dong they made ordinal che xr nace rd bt Thelmpbreant fact forte prevent purpose that they Seldom encountered head eat. ‘With the advent of steam, forthe frst time jn the history of navigation, shine were able to move dietiy {owinivard: Hence shipping water in pear weathet eased damage to supertruetures, deck fines and Satcher to icesse, tnd rector! fottom damage tear Gh bow appeared as areal of slamming. Stu thr improvements and esting of bottom ines for: ‘rand roleved the ater station, and for many years Soles powered eg ahead ue fl ge bower in sina any weather, even ough speed was Fedced by wind and bea. The same true even today for gant, comparatively low-powered tankers and ‘any drybatt eer. For many years the pot charts asued by the US, any Oceanopraphie Ofer silshowed speci routes {or “lwpowened steamer avoid hea! winds and {erie North Atant for example, ail ot involve ‘voiding Yad weather ai such for eastbound he routes {oelow ind hghpoweredsteamers were te same, but they dd stomp to void the prevling head winds land head seas westbound that greatly reduced the ‘Sheed of low-powered ships "ihe tation je diferent for today's modern fast pastenger tesels and high-powered cargo ships. 10 ally Fough head seas, their avaliable peer i ex Feosive and must be edged voluntary avoid shi ping of water forward or incurring stricta damage {othe boon: fom slamming. Hence, maintaining ‘hedul now depends ne much on ship metins as 08 avaiable power Similarly, high powered naval vesels must ofton slow down in reugh sea in order to reduce the motions that afect the performance of ther particular mitson br functon "such se sonar search, landing of auerat helicopters sad sonvoy escort duty. Perbermoe, ow and’ unusual highsesformance eraft—compars {ely mall in sle-have appeared whose perform ance even more drastically sete by ocean waves, ‘hese include highspeed paning_ caf hydrofo tate, catamaran and surface elect sie, mast but ota being developed or considered Tar mitary uses 1 very diferent but related set of problems: has arigen i the development of large Routhg structures tnd platform that must be towed long ditanoes and ieadeureely positioned in stormy seat for oceun dil ing snd other purposes. “Ar reakecping problems have thus became more se rious, parealanly for the design of hapherspeed ‘eeavgoing vests, rapid expansion beatin the mi {Sob in the spplieaton of hydrodynamic Uneory, use of experimental del techniquer and olen of fl Scale empirical data, These mportant devebpments ed inva nator understanding af the problems and Wat bf dating wth them Along wih emarkale advances in oceanography and compar echraogy, ey made ie poste to prodiet in tatisal terms many aspects of ship performance at tea. Furthermore, they ould te appt tothe seagoing” prablems ivelved inthe feign of the unusual new high-speed era and fost ing piatforms previously mentioned.In view of the increasing importance of theoreti! approaches 0 seakeeping problems, i fet to be ‘ssental to cover in is thapte in general wy the Sea dalam rer al mathemati ech ‘ques involved in petting ship mations in both re Ul and ieregulne seas (Sethe 2 ap 1), Some Feaders nay wish to proceed dreily t Sections 5, Whiek disease more practeal aspects of ship motions land the problems of design for sod Seakeeping pet The understanding of ship motlons at sea, and the abilty to predict the behneor of any ship or msine othe natuee of the ocean waves that eonstute the ‘ewironment of the seageng vere The outstanding ‘harncleste ofthe open ceean i is regularity, noe nly when storm winds are Bowing but even der ‘elatively elm codons: Oceanographers have found hat irregular sons cum be described by. statistical Tnathemats on the tare of the assumption that 8 large number of regular waves, having aferent lengths ietions, and amplitudes ae nearly super Imposed This powerful conept fe dscussd in Seton 2'of this chapter bats x inportant to understand tat the characterises of idelized regular waves, Found in reality aly inthe laboratory are sao fur kre forthe drip nd underctaing ofr Consequently, Section 2—aftr a brief discussion ofthe origin apd propagation af ocean waver=the theory of regular gravity waves of imple form presented. Mathematical models verb the Com Dlx irregular patterns actualy observed at sea and fnebuntered by moving ship are then diseased ht fone deta. The easel featore ofthese tnodls is Se concent of 3 Spectra, dking the dtu of energy among the diferent hypothetical regular omponents "having various frequencies. "(wave fengths) snd diretions. ew show that various sta tata! characteraties of any seamay ean be deter "ined from ich spectra. Source of data on wave Characteristics and spectra for various oceans of the ‘world are presented Tas en Tound thatthe iregula motions of ship ina seaway'ean be decried a the near super: paekion ofthe responses of the ship to all he wave Somporents of such Seaway. Tht principle of su pervostinn, which was fst applied to shige by St Denis und Bieron (2958) requires knowledge of bath the'sea components and the thip responses tothe, Hence, the vitally important lino theory. ship motions in sinple epula waves tr next developed i Section Te bess with the simple care of pitch, hese land surge in head seas an then goss onto the general ‘ase of sx degrees af fred. The equations af mo tion are presented and the hydrodyeamie forces el tated onthe basis of potential theory. The ue of sip theory te then desrbed a8 convient way To por. frm the integetion fort tlender body suchas ship, ‘Final, pratet data and experimental results for two cases are presented the longtuinal motions af Pebhenwesurge sone, and the rtaveres rnaons Srollsway ree Section ¢ the extension of the problem of ship Ua the object being to show how moleen techies tatke i pore to Pradit motions ef amost any tbe ‘slerat ‘or Raating structure i any senway i Doe tity tema: tis shown that, knowing the wave spec trum and the characterise reponse fs ship tothe ‘component waves ofthe ireguarsea,aresponse spe trum can be determined. Prom it vicious statistical Tarumetere of responce cat be ota just a wave ‘Sharacterstie are obtainable tom wavispectra, fe tolongsrested ren are trate sy ad then themore general ene of short rested eas, Particular attention ven to the shor etm raise of peak Gris, rena ah apc ave a oth motions aad aceeeratone, Brace of typed ‘aeulatons are included ° ‘Section Sconiders the prediction of sponses other than che simple motions of pte heave vl ete These oealled derived responses incde fat the verte ‘motion (and velocity apd aceleaion) of any pont {ship athe result of the combined et of ll sx ‘moles, or degrees of freeiom ‘Consideration is grea next to the reative motion of points inte ship andthe water surface, wh eas fo method of cafeulating’ probabiites of shipping eater on deck, bow emergence and slamming” Now Tear effects come in here and are dscussed along ‘withnon lines responses such as addod resistance nd Per in waves. inal, anows weave induced loads Gna ship's hull siructae are considered some of whch slip invave nomlinear effects Section discusses the control of ship motions by means of various devices Pasivedevtes that do ek que power or controls comprise hge kel ant Felling uns and moving weights. Fie performance triers for such devices are preseted andthe inf fence of each it shown by eaeultsons fora sip eling Inti sea. Active devies such a gevscope, co troliable fs and controlled rudders are he de Seton 7 deals with etra un inden of se fore deci the evaluated an tht ecopeabity determined, Ht in esse to establad samards of Performance, ust sein ether chaps where criteria stably, subdivision si strength ae presented Varout desirable features of ship behavior have eon tirted from tine to time unde the heading of ‘eakindlines, These include easy motions, (ie Wowacclralios), dey decks, absence of slamming and tropele tog ad eary steering” For nel hie Sngorta aoa! corsberaons inde weapon ‘tem perfomance, Idi of helicopters snd sonar arch eflecieners Tis secon consers deta Speier yeh ge wheter oe mts fonditon, speed and heading: There eters ually felatve to the seu afecting shiping of water and Simin Avail pestle rats of svete Peron see aiteret Sp ea Towerer, whether or nt shi cin mt any ofthe Sue heudtgr Therefore a Seakecping Peformance er (SPI) nsded at tls acount of all te Alferent sea smi expected over perid of ine Snd'the spec and eadga atta in each. Te ‘Mould metre she efecivetese of ship nating Asse A Transit Speed SPI anda Mision Bic: tienes SPL The st pie parealary to merehant ships whose missions te dlr enrgo and pessngers Safely and promplly, and expressed a abana cling the appeabie cetera Tis SF ssn aps fosome functons oftaval ships'The second SP Mi Son Etocdvencs, apples parts to naval et sels, but sso to Coat Guant cuter, fishing vessels Gn ishing grounds oesanogrphi ships and floating flattorms For auch sips the SPI defies the efor {renee ofthe ship in fuling specie mssions or the‘ship an do so over sated period. Methods af Calculating tere SPis are given, Mong vith specie Sramples Final, having criteria and inderes of performance whereby prions canbe testo the naa arcite atures guidance as fo cha of ship frm, propor {lone nteral perms of rolling and ptching eebourd fengong performance: Tn Section 8 the Seortcal prince nd exon! aa eee nee Iie atetont ae apple to_proving” sch mreed fuieines Emphais on coonng the sera sip Froportns atl eoticents since hey meat be eta FER eary t-te design press aid te shown to Changes fal form, ConsSeraton i abo given to Shovewater form and frecboard nd to ded power Sequiements nave Spec denign problems of ghperformance erat are dacusted ofr mtn ey roe that ‘ant from be ols tieshown Sat chose among ‘Kernatve design ean be made on the tan of ec ton cosilertns, for bth commerce and navel Section 2 Ocean ing ible character Iti of waves in the open oean thle ivegularey Study of wave records Confirms this ies of the Se, bohm tine and space, Hower, ones equals impeesed by the fet tt vera fry wie area ad ttn fora pero of hal hour more the sea may Aoalyos indicat very etry tatatcaly steady Srsletionory. At ther Hives oF placer the ea eo ‘dion wil be que diferent and yet thre will gain fea) characters appearance, with diferent but ‘ud staubteal parameters. ene, for most pele lem of behavior Of ship and Tlatng struetures 3 Sy aenuon ean be focused on desrbing mate ‘aically the surface waves aeundom, of stochastic process under shorecornstatstialy stationary con isons Analysis of wave records hs leo shown that Waves? under sch conditions they are approximately Gaus Sra rogue interval of tine have roughly a Gate Sun or normal probably density funtion, Tis char SHehegreaty empl the appaton ati, protailey thor) and Pouner analyse tetanus to The development of suitable models “Te theory of seakeepng wee auch mathemati! made of ocean waves, whch acount fo arab {traves in time and space, 20 long ts cindons re tna steady, permitingentnates of thor term ship rer relavely smal area These thors are based on matheatic wae grr we a eae oF probably and settee The deals of one made paretaryas they concern the naval areitet, wil developed in tris secon iowever foram overall understanding as well as for solving some seakeeing problems, te varation in'wves ever lng pero af tine aid over grt ‘Fatanees cannot be overlooked et usta Certoreto review the physical processes of storm wave se etalon and of wae propagation ina general wat ‘Storm waves are fencrted bythe interact of wind andthe water surface, Thre are at east 0 pgscal procester involved, these beng the fe Between Sie and eter and the lst pressure ele ‘icociated with the wind Mowing over the wave sur Faee- Alhnagh a great dal of work has bee dow he theory of wave genertan by win as summarized by Korvinkroukovshy (001) and Urell (1950), 00 enmpetely satisfactory mechanism has yet been de ‘eed to explain the transfer al energy from mind to the tal storm se system ithe rel of any al Interactions datbuted ver space and tine, These vents eau be expected to be ineendent unless they {re very cose in bth space an ne. Each event wil fd seul local disturbance to the existing ave ‘Within the storm are, thore will be wave jnterae tions and wavebreaking processes that wil affect and lim the growth and propagation of waves from the many lvl atta, Neverthe wave sue Show that wave amplitudes are mal te prince af lnear superposition governs the proaation and {persion of te wave spsteme outside the feneraing fren Specialy Gz. 1) ad Gi yf) are two wave systems, £(s. 9.) Cle yf) alos wave System This ips that one wave system ex ave {hreugh another vave system without modifation ‘While is statement ot absoltely tae ts very near so, except when the sum fs steep enough for ‘A secon important characteristic of water waves that affects the propagstion of wave systems f that Indep ater the pe veloc or celery of sim ple repel wave, such as can be generated in an ex Perimenal tank. fa funeon of wavelength Longer Waves tral faster than shorter wives Stay find Shalyis af ocean wave records has shown that any Joel yatem canbe resolved into 4 sun of component gular waves of vars lengths and directions sing Fourier Integral techniques By an extension of the Principe of superpsiton he subsequent behavior of {ewum ofthese component regular ave systems vill determine the vse eystem of waves, Sine these ‘component waves have diferent celentiee and dive tins he propagating pattern wl slowly change with Tf the propagating wave system over a short pri of time fe sum of avery large numberof separate Fandom eontrutons al esentally dependent he rface lero ° font Lite we 0 and she lays of statins sel some very’ useful con ‘sions. Since water ie laeompressbl, the average ‘egulr component wave, Ces vero (ft assumed {e'be of snuscnal form at dsgutsedeubecquenty, ad horcore the average value forthe wave sytem Gls yh, also sere: However, te variance (ot ‘hea 4qutee deviation rom the mean of whi the average value of < written (€), is positive tjantty tht menses the sevety ofthe sea A fom fof the som of 2st of dependent random varias tendo asymptaiealy to the sumy of the variances of the component variables Tha, for a sey large Gf @-S60 e A fina statistic! conelason is consequence ofthe sent int theorem of tai case der fomgonent variates {sg fare not dated noe tually. The importance of is oral atthe density fineion ar poral random vavtable sown i mean and varance ave Known, Therefore if the va ance of the surface elevation inthe wlibcomponent Wave system ean be estimated, its peoabilty density sa ranorn variable Known, Och (186) deal with ‘the analysis of non-Gaussian random poceses, "These conclusions from the ins af fats al de end upon the presinualy mentioned prniple of # Berposton, stich holas spgroninttely but not [bacltely for water waves, and an he agsurpton of "stn themselves ate approximate thie should lecremembered: However it has ben ound that over the short tera, deviations become’ significant oly when the waves are very ste, and even Then Pet Thanly in thous charactertes that are strongly ifr teed by the erste, Twill be shown that the short-arm deseritve rode that hasbeen deseibed leads tos athena technique for deserbing the ievegulat sea at given Toeaton and time, while condiions eenain steady oF stationary. Each sea condition ean fr short petods for time be a unique asa fingerprint and yet as with ingernt thts onder al pater as dened by ts destoni spectrum, tobe expaine subsequentiy {Section 26) However, since the wn vloces tnd Hence, 1 broader mode is ssc nendd to cover ere aration tn time ivan effets om owth and deine of local wave stems, aswell a DEO} tation and dispersion Fig a) ssmbolzes «storm-waveganeration ane, Ie'maye assumed that daturbances ste being gen rated bythe interact of the rnd aad se surace throughout the str area from the ine the WiedSSOAXs“Qx Ue o \ starts to blow over the region. Fig. 1(0) shows the tffet at an observation poit (xy, of a disturbance tC, f). Sineo spec disturbapee erates ade bersive wave system orirnating with «lea! ngerae bn between wid and gut haste form of raietng Maven spreading fom the pont a) At any datane Stceration paint wil appear to bea aystema cals Ingenta waves progress te det of Duisve dapacement) we assumed fo generat a band St feequencies, ach corresponding to diferent band St wavelengths. As diferent wavelengths advance at Aiterent celerties,the longest waves wll reach the fbservtion print first andthe observed average wae length wll decrease ith incresing te, (01) The total wave displacement atthe servation pint the sum of eects de all disturbances inthe gener aon area that are upwind of line thouzh the ob Servation point perpendicular to the wind titetion, Hecate of gular dispersion, orspreading the many ‘eave system wil ome from diferen dieedons, and the combine sytem wil generally show slorterest i Ghee sx boundary to windward of the generation area, hore o the edge of the stor, the ‘otal wave [fstema at's seen of ducreation pita wt difer in Slarscier ab the plats approach the boundary, as {hore wl be fewer disturbances propagating over the servation pot, Ths distance from te osereton Dotto the boundary is eled the fet. Aso if the Staves are sbnerved at sfx pont staring wil the inception ofthe ind, the wave sper wl grove Wh time. The tine interal between storm inepion and bhuereston called duration If ind specs sea Stile fetch and/or doraton ate increased, the sea ‘Chnitin eventually takes ons statistically stable ‘Structure which pelle fully deeelaped.Furcher i ‘reases in fetch and duration Mave o agieant eet ‘hth siistcal characteris of the wave pattern I the choereaton pont is outide the storm area, Fig. Uo, then i seen thatthe areving ses, ow Called sels leary have a more regular character ‘lepending upon the distance and aren of he storm The crests of the raring component wee txne be ome tore neatly paral asthe obserestion pont feces from the storm are, withthe rent hat se the sentable lngth of 2 wave eest becmes large omared withthe spacing between ents: Dan or fetch has the eo of ening the range of wave ‘gin ine, Le, the preter te distance the nar Tower the bandwith of frequencies, This teeing ef. Fest due tothe uiferenecelentes of the diferent ‘Smposent wavelengths. The lnguhs of waves in this decrease with tne, with the shortest entiable mpotents blag great attenuated and prkaps at Sivig well after he storm his passed. Thess qaities ‘st lngerestednes and uted bandwidth ae respon ‘Sle forthe charseterstie regular appearant of sel ‘complete long-term desertion can est be pro vided ty specifying many spect hor ters fr i erent points throughout the area under conaderai tnd a eyular increments of time: Despite elas an entiraly sadsfactory theory of wae. generat ‘ceanographers have devised semempiral meth inate eect of winds on te growth or decay of oe] wave systems. For example, Person, eta (1955) de feribed's method of acomplshing ths, making ure of theoretical work of Plipr and Aes, az wel as em Piral data Soe Section £8 ‘Since the short term iregular wave patterns ty scored sen wil be described in term cf roguecomponent wave trains of dierent fragueney and fection itis important to consider next the chractr. Sie of simple gravity waves 222 Theery of Simple Gravity Waves, Inthe hydro dynamic hoary of trace waves fis secumed that the crest are stra infinitely long. parallel and tsaly spoced, and that wave heights ae constant. ‘The wave form advances ina dreeion perpendialar to the line of erste at a uniform velodey, V7, usually Foterred tas celerity wo emphasize that the wave fon rather than the water pares that advances, Such simple waver are usually refered to a8 two Simensiol waves Ie assumed in wave chery tht State hae tero ttsity and it incompressibie. Iti Convenient lea assume that, although waves ae ‘reaed Uy wind forces, stewephere presse op te tratersurace conta after the wave ein hasbeen Mable "The surface wave isthe visible manifestation of presiure hunges and waterparsle motion affecting the entre body of fud~theorescaly tae fll dept ‘The motion of parts under the iealized condiuons ‘an be characterized conveniently by quantity known Ss the relocty potential 6 which debned asa fan thn whose negative derivative in any direction yields the velocity component of the ui inthe same Gre: thm. Prom this Feneton al of the desied wave char Seti an dered. Tete op hyenas itive the velocity potental fora twodimensonal wave fr any depth of water and expres the revallmg ware form by a Fauser senes (Korvir Kenovsky 1901 Tm, 1920). certain samplifeations are itrodced ‘whi antouat co assuming the waves to be af ery all (heoreteliyinfnasimall amplitudes, the so called frat order theory reduces the wave tothe fi fntmoni alone. (Amore exact soliton disetased in Section 23) The simplified potenal se follows: “gy cobete +h) zy, hee ‘The aig is taken at thesillwater lve directly over x hollow, Fig 2 the horizontal ordinals, prove inthe duction of wave propagation: and te ver ‘eal coordinate, poitive upward, Thi positive upward ‘convention ie adopted for consistency withthe work ‘onahip motions to fllow, although it difersfoom smne feferences. Also sin kee Va) @) Eis surface wave amplitude (halheight fom ste tough “is depth of water {Eis the wave number, 2r/ Le Visa wave velo or eles For the cate of deep water (oughly h > £,/2) the coh ke +) nh EE sopeoaches and the expression forthe velacty po ‘ta becomes Ae Hence, the horizontal and vertical components of water ‘elo at any pont in deep water ae given by Eve" sin te — V2) @ we Mauro ker) 6) ow w= 8 averse VO 16 the patho «parla partis be traced hr slate eye wil be fund hat In Seep water si prises describe coir pats having raat ‘relat the surface snd decease wan Seth ie fro forvn toe Str, s should here be measured to {heer tte cou patdsebed yh rie. Inshallow water the pales move eclipses wit a Constant hottontal datas between fan ith ver cal comaser varying with depth: Atthe bottom, the Sertcal somiax fe ero, andthe parties ueate eck and forth onstrates, "fo detormine the foregoing veloc fo any parti rave vloty V7. Booksby Mine Thanpson 1360 and Korvnroskovaky (1961), show tha: the condtons ‘of elo and présure 2 the srfie of the wave 49% aF tor Inserting Bquaton (3) for the poteal ia (it ean teshown tha o o = Leahwhich defines the velaty of x wave i any depth of Water, The in vry sallow water (oughly A < E125 oh ° and in deep water (h > £2), VE = g/k = pL/2e 00) For many problems the most important aspect of waves isthe dieribation of pressure below the surface It's sonvemsent to compute the pressure relatee (0 Forzonal lines of eonstant preteure nll water. The sipating of nes of equa reste ma ware relate eexpeesion me ne Bones a1 fo gat hich is derived in ydodyamios texts (Lamb, 1920) Ty'means of Bernoulli's theorem fora gravity force scung on & bady of Sd under uniform atmospheric prose assuring that wave eight esa (tity Efeaking.infintesah, Then for water of any depth EVE cosh 2 + 8s eee — v9) be inh Ha oO A Sos Pranon 70 = tanh the an ous + 2) cosh EF In deop water (large A) the ratio cosh K(= + 4) cosh leh Rppreaches €, and f= Tet cos le 2) cos Me = Vt) A) vay ay ‘These expressions show that contours of equal pres: surest any doptharecoune curves whisharefunctons Df tme when sinerved at a xed point, ra funeton bf stance ats particular instant f. Since = de {reaues sus deereades the contours of eqial presse Sreattenuated with depth, appreaching ze apitude fe ether contours are the same ta those Fenerated by the orbital motions of individual pare See “To obtsin the surface wave profile, 2s taken equal to seo in Equation (18) o (dh Then b= Teas ke ~ Ve un for both deep and shallow water. ‘Atmore sonvenient form forthe equation ofa simple harmnniswuuo ean betaine by unig srl fe fuency w= 2/7, The period Ts the Une required forthe wave t travel one wave length ad hence the relationship between wave length sad period in doap ‘ater ean be derived from Bquation (10. po to (2) V. (obs o Hence, erelarfrequeney ae _ (ae ia J" atari =e, an r and b> Te (te - wt) as) When observed ata ied pint, with 2 = 0 t= Foon a) = Few wt Alternatively, ifthe wave profile studied at = 0 ‘The slope ofthe wave surface is obtanel by ifr: & i ry AE sin bx ‘The slope is maximum when ka = = /2 asin k= 1 Then mA, T wher he the wave height from hollow to crest This Iraninai slope oars midway belween crest and & "The contours of constant pressure that have beon derived in Equathons (8) and (04) aso baleate the iterese o dcreste in reaaure relative te tl water ‘any pon in terms of depth or head. He to obtain ihe preaure p a any poit we need only rity the esd by dene po, oF B= pal In deep water then, fom Equation (11) and (14) p= ~ppr + Type cos (kx ~ wt) aie r Benign ant Max eo As previously not, z shoul be mesbured othe cen ier ee ilar path dereibed by the patie atthe Post in question, Evaluation of the equation for prssure ina deep water wave under the eres, 222 below “he orginal Eelwater lve = 20) gives, for example pm ~pol~2) + Eope ~ pote + 2 and for = 0015, and T = 10, for example = pka20 + 028) = phot270 If the pressure were dretly proportion! tp di ‘The aiflrence represents the socalled Smith effect ‘Govth 188) Similarly, under the wave sallow at a Seth of 2 below sllwater level @ — ~2), p= pkg20 — 078) ~ phoit2) neta of pg.0). Ths ander the crest he pressuresate decreas, and under the hollow the pressures are nereased bythe Sth effect The energy ina train of regular waves consists of netic eng assosated with the orbital motion of ‘eater paris and pote eneysy resulting from the change of water love in wave hollows ud exes, ‘The Kinele energy cane derived from the Teor fatenta. For one wave length [the Kinetic eneney pe unit breadth afa wave of all hee ie given fooks on hydrodynamics (Lamb, 1924 Korver Reo Kove, 161), a= ‘This evaluated for a simple cosine wave as ‘The potetialenerey de tothe elevation of water i ne wave legth is abtined by taking stati moments bout the slater level A unk neeement of area is {die and the lever arm ia )/2. Hence, integrating, potential energy is [ena = 0 [car Fora cosine was b= Fes ke 1) andat = 0 Hence, potential energy is ‘Thee derivations show tht wave energy ie half ‘ete and half pototal when averaged over a wave length. Total eneray 5 pot, Or the average energy per unit area of surface, Ave. unit Boerey = ipo en (sy = umf eed where the brackets (> indieate mean vale of Tne cae of a simple harmonie wave, as given by ison (i) a'r =D, Tenn be taken as te wave peviod, an i canbe shown that ao) = AE eo ‘Thats, the variance of wae elevation ofa single cycle ofa ake wave b ciual to aoetal Ge aque ofthe de'This tearem also tr ora trite namber timitae P= in Equation For the work to follow, the two-dinensionl regular wave canbe considered ta bea treeecmensona ware {rain with straight, infty Tong crests, Le, along rested rogue wave Furthermore with aes edn the earth the surface clevation of such waves traeling 0 [#3008 sing) at +a) 20) where ¢ isa phase angle. For the eae p= D this ‘ation reduges to Equsion (18), except forthe phage ‘gle, which i needed sehen more tan one wate It presen Tra xed point atthe origi is considered (x = 0, y 0), the equation becomes M0) = Fem Hot +0 25 Wave Properties. The following x summary of the properties f two-dimensional harmon waves snd teaver Rite height in deop water (any consistent Wave umber k= Ze/L, = w'/g Surlaceprofle t= Fos kz 12) 0 mE cos the ~ wb 09 Vel pti v o Wave ety o Wave eg 6) Wave perio my asia ae alge at ap peorton) eo In fotsoconds unit v= 2984, Wave ceityWave length b= T= 04s, ners = ase v3 Wave period de, ey pot mies at sumed, was formulate by Stokes (18) Eid other. Tecoresponds with te observed fact that etal waves have sharper erste and later hollows ‘han the simple cosine wave assumed inthe preceding fecton, The equation for vloey potent, which leads with approximations tothe simple harmon trove, yields Seconborder wave profile when the tp Frowbiations are not made, The tolition ean be ex ended with futher refinements into. seres ‘spain, and therefore, the waveform, in prise, ‘an be existed to any dered precision by taking flat numberof terms, Actoaly, for ll practical purpose, the Stokes equation to the second order af pproximation sutisfactory for ship problems Ex Dresedl asa fandom of a fxed tine f= 0, in deep Seater the surface profile previously we Tomict sete em) {mater words, the simple cosine curve is mode by ‘harmonic which ba the length ofthe fundamental Fig: 8 The velwty of the harmonic wave, however Imast be the same a for the fundamental ‘Ar save hight mcreats, the eest proaches a oop the double angle of which sara or 12 Ag which crreponds tos lniting wave height from fest to trough of D4, or approximately 1, Real ttuves wil break well béfore ths eaght eeached ‘Consideration of ater partie velocities Ins wave cot fine height rveas tht the forward water veloiy Sta wave eet greater than the backward veloty in the hollow. Thi ference in partite veloctes, ‘when averaged over wave Tenet, les tothe men ‘elon oF water ow or mast iranaport BET @ when zis the mean particle depth at which the velocity [E'tought Hene, the parse motion is not exactly ‘ren Tan be acen from Equation (27) thatthe velocity reduces rapidly with depth Bven atthe surface the ‘That veloc ison ofthe order of 2 to parent of Wave reloey, although fe may be 2 siaieant per ‘Contage of tho water parte velocities. ‘Whe the Stotes wae, with ts sharpened crest ad fattened trough isa ove accurte geometrical mode treet regula waves esulfers froma fetation that gates value in treating storm seat su well apd {he penile of superposition dors not spol If two Stokes waves are added the tum la not tld wave form, Ths eel seen by spy adding two otal Waves which erent o mulling Equation (2) Tor by 2 Bat forte ta bra vad tou ee, the eco erm should have toon multiphed by 4 Tt hat trcome standard peace to acopt the sight erro in wave shape of ler harmone wave thory inorder fo achieve split n testing the adtive wave a feme that are characterise of hath set and tel Errors inform become significant when waves become ‘oop enough to approach breaking, snd sen the ge metry ofthe wave crest es factor inte reaten OF problem Bs re mates ‘onlen short-restd regular waves smples a eat increas in complesty (St. Dens, 1980) 2. Trehoidal Waves. rom the ears days of na sal achneture ihe been customary tome ase of Trockoided wave smn shipdesign problems. 1 ‘convenient form from the ebmetria oit of vt bhatt fas fo tet certain equlrements of clase Fyrodynarnieand cannot be derived fromthe velo tential Ite profile salmost dente! th Ye second ler Stokes wave, In deep water al particles within {rockon wave follow entuar orbits bout xed ea ters at a constant angslar veloc Tn say horontl lie of orbit centers, he rad are equal tat the phase ff ajacent parties rares successively [a any Yer ‘ea ine alte pails ave Une same Phage but the radf tet orbs decrease exponential asthe depth IReresses. Particles which inl water may be Men tied by ihe intersecuons of a recangsla gi, take the postions shown by tie Intersections of the ais toyead ridin Figs ta some ata during the passe t's weve, Those which were orginally in the same Horan fine eon undulating surfaces wl Gove ‘rial in the same vertial ne be along lines hh Seay rom side to side, converging tinder the crest: Lind verging under the hallows: The arbi ceners ae Stmewhat above the stilwater positon: of the cor Feaponding particles The wave form travels o the lef. (hen the generating circles with ued crtes, evolve hunterelocwse, Te curve joing 8 series of particles originally 0 the sume hovtontal plane is the same ts that ich ie generated by 4gointon the radius of acirle a the ficl rullalong the underside of horntlsrsight fe, as event from a comparion of Figs. and 3 Sich eurven, whoae lit the eyelid, ae ale to. ‘hoki They are also contours of equal peste1 we cal the arbit radius rand the amplitude then {=r Quanttes referring ip the surface wate are denoted by substsgt 0; thus €— ry If i the fadiue ofthe volng ele snd Lethe wave length from erst to crest = 2. To draw a trochldal wave surface, the ceictd wavelength i dived by ‘convenient namber of equally spaced points, a with each ara conor aeitl of diameter equal to the Elected wave height i escrted in these circles rasa at ices ges which cease he sme fraction of 360 deg atthe spacing of the eles in mation to wavelength The sures connecting he nds of tose rats the desvedteohoi. Tn Fig 5, an ordinate ¢ upward, and a angslar xelocityu counterelackwice, rv enpedered ative From tn inal postion, shown at the lef the lary Ciel assumed to be volng steal, counterloc wea, and after time t to have veached the Position ‘OCH, having arved trough the angle @ ~ wt In this tse is positive since» counterclockwise "The parametric equations of the trot io Fig. = ROA rind = Rat P= R+ rome =B The eu of the cices im which the particles move decrease exponentially with depth; that hy ain the see of the harmonic wave whore rs the radius ofa particle tthe surface, apd = mesured tothe conte ofthe cre in which the “The trochoidal wave is somewhat sharp in the crest tank, and ike the Skee wave, Fig- 2 Consequently Fbeequel water volumes the hn of ebitcenters mux te smewhat above the corresponding slater le ‘in der thatthe amount of wate in the eet il ‘ual the smount removed inthe boll I can be ‘Slow that this rae of orbit centers is 7"/22, Pig. Sithoug he tocodal wave eaonably Fai for wavel upto about £/20in hight the ming ese of B=°r ives an poe stonp wave with very ‘arp cur Other sharaeres of the acho ware suche veloc pero, preseore hange with provounlydrcone. ‘Obvious the presse a apy pit on the surface ofa wavets atnecperc Putbermore the sm of fhee parse perwndesar tthe srt a dem reteted by owe witha ile fat acrying 8 fenduim. Although is statement canbe proved on {iea of the they ofa simple armen wae, isnot ely demonstrated by men of teal Following Froud's approsh, itis convenien to deal wit the ier egcions ote wer preaear frees ‘Ming onthe particle Pin Pig by albough the later oul also" be dstermined direc. AB previously Shawn. the Docyancy and hydrodjmamie™ pressure force in the wave enute the bare to move in & Circular poth andthe equal nd opposite reactions onset of gravity mg acting downward and & cont Ciel reaction QP resulting from orbital motion f the Tecan be shown that in trochoidal gravity wave a GB and therfore the contig reactionsa Henge the two triangles are simile and PF. the resultant tg in pe with CP and normal tothe to Cheida'surface- Any particle in the surface i ated tion, therefore, by s resultant pressure force which ‘normal the surface. The net wave posture fore fn the particle w equal and opposite ta PF" Since ne {Bngenal force ents, the surface must be one of 125 Compound Gravity Waves. The highly idealized simple baron ogulae wave proves the hyde fami tsi for short term stochastic adel of ocean Staves bute pyc existence i fr pactial pur ses liited athe laboratory As deserbed in Section Zr natural waves my ssuaily be considered to be ue of rian independent regular waves-~or surface {iaturbanco wh ean themacives be treated ss ime ‘of simple regular waves. Before tating these sto haste motel ft useful to sonsiler several com. fund wave sjeteme that exhibit inporaant psa iter, even thug they are just as dealaed the ‘el poprnie wae fa) Sanding Waves Suppose. we_ superimpose two regular wives of the same amplitude and peta tit trveling In opposite directions. From Equation (G8) the sum of surface elevations can be ete Ison (i ~ wt) + 080 When £ = 0, 7, 27. «+», the wave fora is a cosine Tate with eee at'r = 6,0, Bby, When Te Te the forme the ative ofthe frst fern. sith ough at "0, Laos When €= i Te Tree he surface incomplete fat At inter ‘elias nes the rare has the sae shape ae a Pe iMbat wth ample 2 cor wt Than te crests fever more but decease i lay ad ree trough Mier passing through avo, The brows ston Ite: By aling the veloc potent af the two the ele ecky at 2 = Os slvaye eral and wee pea ane7 4 (he poles), Up velit “inays Horton erefe the wave form the Stipe as would be if wall were pel 2 ~ 6 nin facta standing wave fs generated Whey drogresive regular wate tefected fam averted AE pnpendelar to ks dieetion of advance. ‘D)iface Group It fraqwenty cere tha proupe, with colavely calm patches betucen group frrellc"the waves tave an enelope that Kel ries td fal with time and distance. This phenomenon parlary charactors of swell waves and of Rrridatized wave eroup pater ean be simulated tld bu th shetty dteret frequen moving ih same ection: hun est) = Eo (hy — at) + 8 (ke ~ 2E cosh, + ke ~ ay + we) os Ely — hake tay =e.) OD ‘The frst cosine faetor in this oqation tas the form (t's progresive regular wave with wavelength be = Balk + hd 7B. *E. “Thos, the wavelength of this factor isthe harmonic nea of the wavelengths ofthe two components. The actors mulled by anor cosine factr with wave fength sod period a, ~ 0) Since and ky have been considered 19 be neatly fcnua,the wavelength ofthis factor ery large com fared with the wavelength of the Rest ose factor. ‘Thorefore it behaves ike an eavelope sly advane ing Te has the weltvy, 4yr, = rim the init as Bo, it approach zero, de dV) oy 4 gy ae Nha ‘This is known asthe group velocity, When the water invery deep ts valve approaches 1/2, or ne hat the Celery ofthe progressive waves ind the envelope Ir particular ave ees ie fllowed staring atthe ear of & group, will move forwaed through the froup, growing to peak val, and then shrink and Sapper appraise ang ou of the troup. he cae of shallow water the group Flos sporeschesV.In this ase, india waves maith iTS eng wthn the grap whchadranee at wave celery without change in ave form, "Ths model of group is idealised ut group velacy and group behavior are important aspects of wane Bropagation. A wave group canbe considered cor Eentraion of wave energy ad geoup velocity i the ‘elocy of vance of wae ener. ‘Studles of the satstal carattarstics of wave ser der a ion he open cea hate en reported by ‘Kimura (gel); Longuet Higgs ($80 and other. ees "An important practical consequence of wave gro behaviors hat he ime require forthe wave energy Of given frequency to ative in deep water) a2 Specie location nice that which woul be estimated (Gh A'shortterm model sth constont amplitude componente. concepts! model to describe ocean staves ha been prevented in Seen 2.1.1 possible {ove the shore model more peiae mathemat eal form at this point one that hae become extremely Useftl in the treatment of ship motions intra en Virenmente As previously explained, the wave system In te neighborhood of x particular place std tne i Progressing ins own deen nd celery Che Shannon er sitet dealin Seon tis convonint to begin with the simple case ofthe ave pattern observed at» fxed point (r=, y= (Gh neglecting consideration of the diferent dirt ons, fof wave components, Fig. 7. Tiss equivalent 10 ‘suming that all wave components avelin the same Tegolar wave observed af print Later the ef Tio et were dhecioa aud, ering pont of heervation wl be considered Following St. Dens and Person (959) etch of the large number of wave com ponents i aatuned to have 4 define frequency tnd random phase ane. The form for the equation of ny component wave iat ven in Equation 2), uo cy Whore Zi a component amplitude sreesponding to Wave frequency wand i the random pace angle "The total wave system ie then sanumed to be a sun: ration of many (heoretialy ah ingive number) of inlependent components, Wo = EEew mat +a Tocos (at +6) @s) 1 has been found convenient to define these wave Components in terms uf fonction own ae a wart tine spectrum, Si)-This function alo refereed to fsa point spectrum, since the Wave s observed ata xed point without consideration of the dieetons of ‘component waves, At any particular wave frequen: ithe sariance ofall the wave comgonents within Sal ite frequency Band, bo, cere pen, KAO") = She) bo eo Finally nthe limi as a ~ 0 this reduces tothe var lance Of single infernal harmsie component it has been shown In Section 52 tat Tors simple regular wave (oe cele ora init te] any = KE a9 Hence, if ti desired to visualize the amplitudes of therwsve components, we can substitite Bqution 3) nie) so tae AEF = Sto) bo sd a component amplitude is T= Sere cy inthe init as Su approaches zero Of ure, teannot ocvaldated deci, but itean be apyroximated when4 i taken tobe very small. See ig & ‘More important than the component amplitudes, however the total variance of the wave system, ‘sualy designated which good measure of the every of these Fea ‘The components on the righthand aide of (3) have bce aaiumed to be independent random variables by ‘rte of their random phases Since, su noted in See tion 24, the varance ofthe ui of «lange number of Independent random variables approsehes the su of the Yarancos of thee Yarabies equation (gies, Be qn) = Za or integrating Equation (24) and substtting, Ba [ Sirde oo ‘That i the are under the spectrum is eal tothe ‘aranc, ofthe wave system Referring to the spiel lo of a variance spectrum ‘as pint (ig 8), the areas of the elemental retan ies Sto) ba may be seen from 4) to deine the fariances of the wave components Stet speaking, the foregoing interpretation of the spectrum i ters fof component waves vad only forthe ling ease Ge Cand the number of components "= By Equation (5) the elemental rectangles iz define the amplitude ofthe eamponens in the nit Hove rer, wben a large numberof components is assumed, fy 1S or 2, afr fintesum mode ofa uniiectional flongeveste) sea obtained. (A. mult-drecionl, ‘hortsreste, se requires many more Since aa par teular rectangle represents the variance in at band of frequencies, wave of the indicated ie ample Mout have the sume varance a: the inhnite number Gt eomponents within that bend: Hence, the algerie ‘Auton ofthese 15.020 component waves, shown at the bottom of Fig. 8 will give a patorn that has the sme toal variance and closely resembles the record from which the spectrum was obtained Ie il leo have many of thesume statisti propertis, However, ‘we ean never math the record excly no matter how ‘many components are sesumed, fr although an art Fal wave can be made to repeat isl, real ocean trave recor never does ao. Ths ls atuly no hand. ap for is tatstieal information that we ultimately ‘efor spoiation to shi design, Te is of interest to plot five or mote sine curves through several eels ad tos successive ordinates algebraically orto carey out the same procedure on Sn electronic computer The rating eave wil det ‘nate larly thatthe sum of even a smal nub Ut regula ine waves iv an reels patter, povided thatthe component waves aren random phace, shouldbe emphasized tht the component waves reo dieetly viable eer ase orina ve record However, the variance spectrum defning tse com Ponents can be obtained from a wave reord by ap. Hing the techniques of generalized barman analyte {i¥ener, 1890, 1819, provided that the reora is ong ‘enough U5 tn 20 minh and that ten condi rer Steudy. Such eecords hare been obtained maialy by means of shiorne renders aboard stathnary {such ax wether ships). Airborne let end radar ‘Sing have slo been tard sr rar eller co fyataeraft are under development (Pereon 191), ue analyte procedure developed bp Takey (449) anid Rice (1945 an 1054) points are Best rea fromthe econ at equal increments of tine. Then te outocor ‘elation function of the data samples oxained by evaluating the integeal [uo cerne for digeret values of time log. The raw pant spe trum isthen obtained by taking the Fourercatine trangform cf the autieoerslation:functon. Some‘moothing” of the raw spectrum is desirable to in pre the aeciracy of the stayin oe of evra smoothing funetons. Fai, the theory po Wider mans of eluting the aca, tat de Ting the conden bande of te sect estistes, {aking account of the sampling itera, te umber ff dats points in the sample, nd the murber of tags {the procures summarised by Korvn Keoukoveky {136i and dncased in detail by Bendat and Perso asm “The foregoing operations canbe realy cari oat ‘ona digtal computer. However, ascent year i has fen found to be more expaious to emply standard Fest Fourier programs, which aso pravde superior rerolsion (Bena snd Piro, 101). The eects of {sng diferent arash methods on the ste data are onuered by Donan and Parton 98). Many ex Ste of pin petra hae ben derived from tes Srtverecofde Sever ofthese are shown In Fig. © ‘sould te noted int some authors prefer se a pectram form based on wave pered rather than freaueney ince It more ronson with wave oe Servations and wher plated gives more emphasis to the important lw fequenies and Tes tthe est Important high frequencies Tes been shown in Section 2:2 tht energy per unit surface area inte harmonic wave & pr: ortonal othe square ofthe amide, 0 ore pe Shea oo DBauations (4 ad (5) show that te variance of the wave componects witha a band of freyuences, Bort Unie Energy ~ p00 Sto) bo = 4 cin " which ders only by a factor of py from he unit nergy of Equation (21). Hence, th spectrum Sia) trhich doreribes the allocation ofthe aranc of «wave ‘System among components canals be considered tn ‘locaton of Energy pg For this taco, iis some fins somewhat aly the nea spect crested, the point spectrums, together with the dee: ‘hm would Bes complete statsuea! dfiiton of the eaeay aashraing it be a Gaussiarcandom process with atro mean, This condition i aonetines Speen Thated in nature when the predominant waves a from singe distant storm ‘Although the varsnce obtained roma point pee rum isa ood measure ofthe seventy of any sea wlrbeshowe tht the sexway ean be tore completly ‘haracterzed by considering the conponent wave dt feetins by means of «directional spectrum. Coming tow to this more general threedivensonal ease, # "ingle wave train i desorbed hy Equntion (24). The ieneral equatson for the total save system of tm nents moving in diferent sireton, then Hau = EEE, con [be 008 + ysinw) ae +e) 69 Ins manner similar to the case ofthe point speerut, the wave elevation may be considerel at a pont (e = ry = 0) but component wave dreton, must ti Se ccounted for ener, Wo = BE E08 snd ry b= 4EEE, [Lf se rndute on Where the variance B; as previously noted ean in bortnt statistic! parameter, andthe components re Aleted by bath frequen, and dieton th to refering spc eles of ad a spc Allerton by frequency and direon of the varanees Of the components ofthe wave sysom, Bach ofthe Infinite number of wave components i asrumed to have a dente fequeney snd dren, with random phase angle. The component ampltades are defined forthe ineremental areas, bub, i it a8 Bo and ou whenB= \ESto eT Boe ry Thus, Se, defines the sen state more completely than the poi spectrum, See Fig. 10) whieh ean be fonsidered an idealized contour pot of a trcedimen Sonat figure in which the sks perpendicular to the paper represents Slo, A typi drecional spec: {eum obtained! from wave buoy records tho Fg ty (Cankam, ea 1912) different average dr Slo) do = 4 EE «a where Sl) the point apectrum previous diacussed, 10) Generational Theory of Oceay. Wi Another les simple stochae tne! of ocean waves takes secount of the proctos of generating storm sea by assuming tht the separate diturances ger ratad inthe stormy areas, af cused in Section stein the form of wave groups rather an simple {tains of repular waves These componedt ystems "perimpose on one another and propagate swe from io hee arc a) the generating are. The Hal resale of thie approach ‘ould e's mathematica model thst ifr from the Eimpler ease tn that Equation (39) requis another factor representing a wave component of fixed fre AQueney,-a-enrriernelecteoniteteroalogy ad the sutton of (o, ~ a) for to account forthe Slow’ amplitude medulaton ‘The examples of directional spectra shovn in Figs. o'and 1 apply qualy to the present mel and to the simpler one previoisly given, but in te present tse the spectra oil ehange slowly with tine Hoth models are lca, inthe sense that they deserbe the staal hair of som waves ihe ne Aine neighiorhoot of geographical point. However the fest model bs the form oft seatonney ne sate {allyeonstant se overall space ana time The second ‘model rea allows for changes deta sath eects Es feteh and duration, In the fit godel any reat faton bated upon a ducrete se of sine sures i fave a random but constant phase between comp nenta af the same frequeney but diferent dretons, trich is inconstent with the acond model Ie should te noted that any realiantion based upon direte sine ‘waves, even if large number of somponsts as ‘hed, may lead to erronsou correlations song ship Teapontes phase between heave and pith fr ex Smple. While the simple watistcal parancters wilgenerally be identical between the two mals, nore Eomplex mesures that involve two or ore responses ‘may benave quite diferent. Further treatment ofthis ‘eston is beyond the see of the discussion here, Ain fat fs an area of controversy and conning esearch. This second model fr direutsed, not just 40 provide a better understanding ofthe storm se bt {olay a foundation for eating compler shipware 10) Characteristics of point pectra,_ Atypical re on of waves observed ata fixed point a cot Afreguarfonetion of time such Se Fig. 7, that ever repeats itself exactly. The continuous ine in Pig. 12 Imight representa segment of such a record of length Tit te satamed tobe a eromean procs ts a lance i giver mathematically by Gon tind [" soa eo ‘Therefore, the variance can be approximated by taking measurements of 4 large number of lovely spaced ‘levine from the mean ine, squaring them and i tegrating numertaly. But we have seen that te area Under the point spectrum, Eis abo equal to the var Bove ofthe proces (Squaison 2, Heteas if he per tram fr know, the rarlanceexn be easy obtained by Integrating te spectrum. Alternately, one oom. putes the Yaetanae diet from the wae rocord one Stans the area under the unknown spectrum, but not iaahape "Anant cstriutin completly defined when the ‘naan and variance are known, The mean here ier, nd the variance has been shown tobe &. The peo tity deonityfuneton for £0) then po~ eer ae > epee 0 {he fame bel shaped curve shown in Big. 18. ‘or most pructeal purposes, however, Me are more infra ite a of ble aparr ropes of the wave record than ints Causian oper or ft ive component waves. Fors ely he shape ofthe spectrum supp gett dal ‘tuseal information shout the vsble carats ‘tthe ocean wave system to which i earesponds Ax mathemati funeios spectra areslvays fon negative nce they represent oguared quant the ‘atianes), but with ¢ Boite area, E An afin aren ‘ould imply anne mean square surticedplace trent. Pont spectra (Figs Ban 9) rae tone or more etka oF modes, an then vanish at very high feo {uencin. The modal frequen corespening athe Aighest peak of spectrum i designated wand the torreapending perod, r/o, Ccsgnued Ta'The frequeney of grestert variance density rg ad Is truer used os a ening para ogetes Tig sometimes ealed the most proba pra, bat thie an erroneous eoneept as the plat spectra tot in any sense probably density fueton. While ‘iis parameter has intutvesgnieae,f should be Uredwidvenstionndieaston of spectra derived from Mtavereeords Ie san be shown t have peor sampling ‘Haracterts, ance te precise value deendh slayupon the variation of Sa) inthe immedi neighbor hood of wand the small errs tht are inherent in the caleulition from a specie wave resrd ean result Inlarge shift ia the poston ofthe peal More meaningfl fequeney parameters can be tained from the set of moments, whith depend on spectrum tha m= [or Sierde 6 ere mis an integer tn pata the area, ms Susie sampling carscerties tha Ta they ‘kepend upon all values of Sto} The moments, and Ima have s dynam agnicance dat ean be shown by Aiferentsting Equation (65) with respect to me 1 Y= a Fis fot + 6) =E-otieos fart (e-2)] uo By analogy with Equations (25) and (96), giving the ‘component amplitude of wave elevation dad ie var anee, the amplitude of component vertial Yeloaty tmust be w abd the variance of component velit (89 = KlwT = ener the spetrum of velocity (9? Sto.) 50 There are numberof descriptive parameters that cane compuied eum the spectral moments, hich ste valuable for characterizing the vse apparan of the wave record: These inlude the eerocoseing period (average tine interval between zero wero Ings), average peak-to-peak period, average slp, tage wavelength, and average wave height (rerieal AUstane: rough terest). The quantities ting aver: ‘zed are lortratd sn che sample time record show Efi: except for wave slope which i ot defined Average pened of component wares, r= [ rsida/ [see Period corresponding to average frequency of com ponent waves, 7, = 24([” &Siw)da’m Average pevid between ze u sce Prise and Bishop (18, rossings of C(t, 1, = tein wy Average period between peaks (maxims) or ballows wate). Sintcgs the ‘spettons of secon, (nf Tiel a'Sik therfore oe Tm, en peste (27) statistical measure ofthe slope of the wave sur m= G0 (48) face {tos variance (IN Soon soos = 1 1 JN i oH wate © 1 eens ' mame icy (0) = mae where See Section 27 and Cummins and Bales (1980, Average save length between aero up-erosings (Price and Bishop, 1970, (hed In considering visual wave amplitudes and heights, ‘we ote fst tt as a consequenee ofthe seroeah ‘Gautian asumpiin, th process i statstealy sym. ‘nets about the ze tine: Por example, in the ong nthe average postive deviation from aero fs equal to ihe average negative deviauon. More important inthe present context, the Gaussian propery requires that the maxi sod minima of a record ako be sa Usteally symmetrical ‘Inthe waves ship response processas of intrest the guatatve behavior sketched in ig 2 stot un ‘common; tha is, small short perad ociations some timer ride on long period ‘osilations. Thus. the Drssbilty arses that there ean be more than one mum in an excursion of the provess sve sero. This ecetsary means that there can also be mina tha re postive. Thus, in contrast tothe usual “givens ‘bode mania and mina of sinusoids, we bave the prospect of dealing with positive maxima, negative maxima, negative minima, and positive minima, a i: Nisteated in Fig 12 "The maxina ofthe proess are random vases, 6 that are derrable from the process: The theory for the probability density of all mains lr minal of ‘worked out by Rice (1945), and extensively datussed by Cartwright tal 186) The most compact form of the result abtained by notmaliing the dimensional teaxina by yng = yB (he root meansquare value of he prover B+ em ‘Then the probity density of the sondimensional maxima, 2 may be writen (Cartwegn, etal, 1936) rb footer + TP exp (2/2 4 Tera} 6H) I whete the socalled spectral broadness parameter (T= ee, ie deine =e ‘xp (v8 /2) arg, sr g Ft ‘ener Foncho Bool, i rN ° “ OUILE WANE AMPLITUDE = m whore wis a dummy variable The most important thing io note about the result is thatthe probability deni of maxina ts competly detned (Chr = and oy the fst tree even spec tralmaments, my, My, and my, Once the estrus Known, the momen an be worked out, he pro aby fonction of the maxina is defied. Reeling Equations (1) end (8, « san be expressed as 77 «) audit canbe sen that this parameters related to he ‘at ofthe average period between peak and he ‘Seeger bre ro pris When ere ine multe masina in any oxcusons of he poe eS above of below tr, Te = wand be Specinam io ead nar Bond. When c= 0' as Stated ito Bunn (3) the rs HE) ~ Ee (272) 6 which i» nondimeninal form ofthe Raleigh dn ‘Sy foneon shown n Fig. fs Conversely: when thre sr avery large umber of anna within ence Suton of the poses shove or below sen) P< F nde" the Seceem considered broad Saba {ation of ¢ =" ito Equation (58) yield «hon liens slonal Gatssian denity fonction ve exp [2/2] 6) ie Essentially, the probability density futons forthe ‘marina ofthe process given by Equation (5) make ‘ontinsows transition fo the Rayleigh tothe Gaus flan density functions, dependent upon Ue relative rouse of te spectrum ‘Another measure of magaitudecustomatly used is the estimate of the average vale of the 1 th highest rasa of the protes fo istete the Ide, 1000 mauima sere measured from s sample, te average Gf the 1/10 highest woul be obtsined by st Hen {ying the highest 100 maxima and then averaging hem The analogous estimate from the theory fi lstrated by Fig: 15, which representa probability Alenaty of anima, (=). The shaded renin the tll eprdents @prababitty (1) thats maxnum il treed, . Mathematically this writen oon) \, ZProb (2 > oo Given an expeesion for p()(Pquations (5) (5), (58) the value af =. may be worked out numerically from Equation (0) The stata mean tae of the values of E above 2 then oanfenae shih tasted headed area AGS Sete td the un aed sincera pie os cane an Ye feted Seta hans fen of ed sere guete gtr lh fetta Slag Ge cp ee Winhal y'2 20 ad nif ie nage Othe igh dimen main 20 rapt mage ih agen ‘nade Sea TER el tone hat broad pendence of ( ss paraieter,¢ les that 05 or 0.6 the de ‘and (&,,) on ee romtvely sal In this range of ei the woe of (ie taken af that for the narrowband ease (e =) the eror om titted typically lee than 10 pore Poreonately Formaet cars of interest exper ship respons) the broadness parameter flesh thas 6 Tn the event double ample f reuired fa wave height), the “alses for narroe band procent are doubled Thus various satel Values of wave properties cane caletlated from £ — mi by tcing Sdvantage Well as mama, of record fellow approximately & Raylejgn density fonction. (See Pig 10) Por this por {ose fom Equation (5), the probably density ene fiom of the wave height. A (Pg. 12. may be ween "Average apparent wave height, cresto trough (22) (hy = 256% or average amplitude 156% Similarly, the average of the highest waves, oF sig rifeant eight (hah) = 408" And the average of the highest waves is (had) = 58 As explained in Section , all of the above oatons| apply alo to most ship responses ty oman waves ‘Those measures are of 8 magnitade tat would often ‘be modeed na relatively short observalin ofthe poe fhe There ave ceeaions, however, when tis desired {o'ssLinate magnitudes of wave or reponse maxima ‘hat are unlikely to be excunded very often that 10 timate extremes, The statistical Ghny of extrine ‘alu used i cojuneton vith the varrow-and as umption reste in the estimates for the expected highest in sample of N successive wave height, N= 100, 658" Too, 778" Nm 10, 8B" However, if Inge numberof samples ofthe stated too are taken, percent of them won be expected torhave minim heights 88 falls N= 100, 788° N= 000, 896" Since the eights given were arrived at by doubly the results for marina, estimated vals of the cor