Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Dr Deepti Gupta,
Associate Professor,
Department of Textile Technology,
Indian Institute of Technology Delhi,
Hauz Khas, New Delhi-110016,
Ph: 2659 1417, e mail: deepti@textile.iitd.ernet.in
Abstract
An anthropometric survey has been conducted for young Indian women and men in the age group of 18-24 years. A
protocol for conducting anthropometric studies has been developed and the problems with existing body size systems
have been analysed. Results have been analysed to gain understanding about the body proportions and dimensions
existing in the population. Univariate and multivariate analysis of the anthropometric data has been carried out. Using
an indigenously developed algorithm and a unique approach, accurate body sizes for top and lower body garments
have been proposed. For the first time it has been possible to map the Indian population for the purpose of evolving a
sizing system for garments. Wearer trials conducted with proposed sizes showed that fit obtained was excellent.
Introduction
The need for having a systematic and scientific system for measuring and classifying human bodies in India for the
purpose of developing a sizing system for garments need not be emphasized any longer. As we move into times
characterized by unprecedented retail growth, this need is becoming more and more acute. As the masses start
frequenting the Malls for their clothing requirements, they are becoming aware of the fit or rather the lack of it
that the various brands offer. Fit has been cited as one of the major criteria that determine the purchase decisions for
clothing- and thus could make or mar a brands popularity. Given the novelty of Mall culture in India, the
consumers are still on a steep learning curve and it is a matter of time before they become sensitive to the issue of fit
and become frustrated by the lack of it.
Anthropometric surveys have been conducted frequently in India for the last 30-40 years. Some have been conducted
by Home Science colleges and the results have been used for pattern development exercises for various age groups.
Many others have been conducted to assess the nutritional status of population groups but unlike US studies, very
little information about the findings of such studies is available in the public domain. Besides, these surveys were
mostly restricted to small, local population sets. A comprehensive all India survey was undertaken by Dr KS Singh for
the Anthropological Survey of India, from 1985 onwards, to study the effect of several parameters on growth patterns
of the various ethnic groups in India. However, the measurements taken for anthropological studies are quite different
from those required for the purpose of developing size charts for garment manufacture and hence cannot be used for
the purpose. Some small studies have also been conducted by ergonomists to collect data for the purpose of design of
work places.
More recently, some major garment manufacturers retailing in India, commissioned anthropometric studies before
launching their respective brands in the domestic market. These surveys were often conducted by marketing
organizations which arguably had no expertise in the area of anthropometry and thus the data obtained was often
found to be unreliable. Besides, the companies have held on to the results very closely perhaps as a trade secret, and
again no information is available about the results or the analysis conducted. Even when the surveys were conducted as
mentioned above, the analysis was restricted to calculation of simple arithmetic means, percentages and percentiles.
For the purpose of mass manufacture such results cannot be used. In summary, it may be said that there exists no
record of a systematic, all India anthropometric survey ever conducted. And so, today there exist as many sizes and
sizing systems in the Indian clothing market as there are brands! The sizes are different, the nomenclature is different
and the size intervals are also different in each case. There is no way a customer can buy her clothing without having
to try on innumerable clothes in each brand. Then again, there is no consistency of sizes even within the same brand,
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for example, top and lower body garments. That is to say, that a woman maybe a small (S) in shirts but a large (L) in
trousers. All this creates a lot of confusion in the mind of the customer mainly because the exact body measurements
for which the garment is intended are not known to the customer and often there is no relation between the garment
size and the body measurements.
The reason why we in India, do not have even a primitive garment sizing system in place is, one- that the traditional
Indian garments comprised primarily of draped wear and whatever little stitching was required, could be catered to by
the local tailor; secondly, we had no organized retailing set ups and thirdly, we were not a fashion conscious or a fit
conscious population. Thus the need was never felt for a ready made garment sizing system. As the clothing
preferences now shift from Indian to western wear, the need for a sizing system is being felt acutely. But this does not
mean that the so called developed nations are not facing problems in this area. The number of research studies
conducted and the amount of literature generated in the area of sizing and fit in the last 5 years throughout the world is
phenomenal. In fact, it would not be an exaggeration to state that any prestigious textile/ apparel department or
university in Europe or America is currently working in the area of garment sizing and fit!!
The complexity of garment sizing
The problem of garment sizing is extremely complex. Being interdisciplinary in nature, it makes the entire exercise of
developing a sizing system a highly capital and time intensive one. Size UK, conducted in 2000 cost 1.2 billion and
Size Sweden took 5 years to complete. The extent of time and money required has been major deterrents in taking up
the issue of data collection and data analysis for garment sizing. Further, development of sizing systems has required
inputs from a) Anthropologists (planning and conducting an anthropometric survey) b) Statisticians and
mathematicians(population sampling plan, statistical and data analysis) c) Pattern makers (choice of critical
measurements) d) Garment technologists and designers (production related issues- size plan and fit). But by far, the
weakest link has been the process of data analysis. That is, how to process the huge amount of data generated, so as to
be able to arrive at a suitable set of sizes, which can provide the framework for mass manufacture of garments. Simple
statistics is incapable of processing this data due to the inherently non linear nature of the problem.
Most sizing systems used today are faulty as they are based on a simple system of averages or percentiles - thereby
assuming that human bodies follow a mathematical precision and increments in their shapes and sizes. In other words,
each body is supposed to fit one of the sizes which some statistician arrived at by taking the average of a given
population- of which one may or may not have been a part. Or worse still, some companies use professional models to
test fit their garments before they are put into production!! So unless one has the so called average figure or the
figure of a professional model, one cannot expect to find a garment that fits.
Analysis of the Indian population data in the current study shows that ~ 20% of the population matches the dimensions
of an average figure! So what happens to the rest 80%? Given this understanding, it might be better to follow a
system where the bodies would not be required to fit the sizes, rather the sizes are devised to fit the bodies - as they
are in reality. In other words, to devise a sizing system which covers ~80% of the population? 10-20% of the
population which is not covered would be comprised of the outliers or those which are significantly different in size or
proportion from standard dimensions. These will have to be catered to as special categories ( eg. plus size category).
Garment sizing is also about catering to different body proportions, such as waist to hip ratio (WHR), Bust to hip ratio
and so on. This means that no single measurement can be taken as the basis of garment sizing (most current systems
do this), instead, some key measurements have to be identified for each garment type and the population has to be
classified on the basis of these multiple dimensions. Also, the number of size categories should be kept to a minimum
to keep the inventories manageable. Once the size groups have been identified, it should be possible to tell as to how
many people are covered under each one of the sizes to facilitate the stock production and inventories. All these
further add to the complexity of the problem.
It is not easy to carry out these complex analyses given the huge size of the data matrix obtained from anthropometric
studies. Fortunately, very powerful and sophisticated mathematical tools have now become available. These, coupled
with the current computing power, can be used to analyse the data and arrive at a suitable sizing system- one which
adequately covers a given population and gives a good fit to the intended wearers.
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Measurement
1. Weight (kg)
2. Height
3. Cervical height
5. Highest shoulder to
chest
7. Front Waist
8. Head Circumference
30.
The data was thoroughly checked for any errors or inconsistencies and cleaned.
Data analysis
Detail statistical analysis of the raw data was carried out to gain a general understanding about the shapes and sizes
characterizing the young adult population of Indian men and women. Important insights were gained. Based on such
analysis, the Indian male population was divided into 15 categories comprising of 3 categories on the basis of height
and 5 categories on the basis of body shape or Drop value. These categories provide a critical framework for
developing a garment sizing system for this group of people. The categories and the distribution of the population
under the same are shown in Table 2. These categories are the same as those used by some European countries to
describe their population but the drop intervals for Indian population were found to be very different from them.
Again, the drop intervals were not calculated by just dividing the complete range with the number of categories
required. Instead, a complex analysis of the population data was used to arrive at these categories which truly reflect
the distribution in the population.
The range of drop values obtained for this data set confirm closely to the values reported for Sweden, South Africa and
Germany. But the range is quite different from the populations of France, Finland and Denmark. (John M. Winks, The
Textile Institute,). It is important to point out that the data is essentially for very young adults who are more health
conscious and hence significantly slimmer as compared to middle aged Indian men. Large abdominal sizes are quite
common in higher age groups and this trend is likely to show up during the data analysis of the population in the 26-45
year age category. In general, it can be concluded that Indian men are shorter and have less defined body shapes as
compared to their European counterparts.
Table 2 Percent distribution of young Indian men (18-24 years) under various height/shape categories.
S.No. Category Short
Medium Tall
Total %
Corpulent 0.4
0.2
0.6
Stout
0.8
0.6
0.4
1.8
Portly
14
24
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Regular
37
53.6
Athletic
15
20
Total %
16.2
66.8
17.4
100*
* The figures may not add up to 100 as they have been rounded off.
Multiple correlation analysis of the anthropometric data showed that neck girth, waist girth, hip girth and chest girth
are correlated well to the weight, while cervical height and waist height are correlated well to the height. However,
height and weight within themselves have very poor correlation. So in general, for good fitting of garments, at least
one lengthwise measure and one girth measure would be required. Measures to be selected would depend on the
garment type and the critical measurements for the same.
Most current garment sizing systems are also based on the above mentioned premise. In most cases any one
measurement is taken as the basis of sizing such as chest or hip girth and all other measurements are calculated as a
function of the same. Such systems assume that if mathematical correlation is high, then the derived measurements
would also be accurate. This assumption may very well be true in mathematical applications but in garment
manufacture this will invariably lead to poor fit of garments for most of the intended wearers. An example cited below
illustrates this point.
Correlation between chest girth and waist girth for the young mens population discussed above was found to be quite
high (0.88). A nearly linear trend is observed in the plot shown in Figure 1. However, it can be seen that there is a fair
amount of spread too in the population data. The analysis of this spread for a section of the population (waist girth 9096 cm) is shown in Figure 2.
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using. The predicted sizes however covered a much wider range of measurements, incorporation which could increase
the population cover to nearly 80% . Fit models were identified and test garments were stitched for them to optimise
the pattern. Fit trials yielded satisfactory fit for ITC Willss brand Miss Players tops.
Appendix
Figure 1
a) Circumference measurements,
b) Front measurements
c) Back Measurements,
d) Measurements in Sitting Posture
a)
b)
c)
d)
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March 2008
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