Professional Documents
Culture Documents
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SECOND EDITION
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1008
THE
American Garment Cutter
FOR
WOMEN'S GARMENTS
SECOND EDITION
^A
WOMEN'S GARMENTS
according
to
most
approved method
"-
\1
i.A
o.\^
^.^^
o
INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT.
Entered according to the act of Congress
1913
in the
year 1913
by
Reproduction Interdite
Vervielfaeltigung Untersagt
-<^^/erf
ri>'
^ '''^^i
PrFfarp to
^"tHE
/ 1
^^
lltp
^Fronli
The
iEfitttnn
work on
its
acceptance by the
cutting par
excellence
itself.
its
preparation.
Therefore, while fully covering the matter of detailed considerall standard garments, the taking of the measures, the cor-
ation of
so highly
commended
we have
perative need of "modernizing," so to say the treatment of the suband while not getting away from the fundamental principles as
ject,
set forth in the earlier issue, the present work has been revised and
supplemented with much new material and many illustrations, making it in every way a worthy successor to the First Edition.
in the satisfaction that this
work
it
for
your
The Author,
GUSTAV ENGELMANN
DEDICATION
TO
the
the World
whose
are
lives
unselfishly
this
work
is
dedicated in
The (Author.
Measurements
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS
WOMEN
Sizes
10
PROPORTIONAL WIDTHS
s-e
4FT.4IN.
Diagram
6 FEET
""
PROPORTIONAL LENGTHS
11
12
manner
etc.
Be very careful in measuring to place the tape close to the body, neither too tight nor
The success of the garment depends greatly
too loose, and see to it that it is not crooked.
on the balance, which the measurement alone can ascertain. It is therefore imperative that
must again
the body of your customer be in its natural pose when the measure is taken.
impress upon you the necessity of so arranging matters that you will keep her body in its
proper pose. It is a very common occurence that a person whose natural attitude is somewhat stfKjping will erect herself during the operation of measuring, which should be avoidTake special notice of the foregoing instruction.
ed.
We
4,
N.
Diagram
No.
4,
-;*;,2.
FIR.ST Mark shoulder seam with two pins, one at 8, the other at 9. This is very important, and great care should be taken not to get this particular seam too far front or back.
SECOND Place tape high up under arm as line 1 shows, and mark with pins for
shoulder height measure at 22 and 15 on front and 24-25 on back, directly under shoulder
pins previously placed.
BUST MEASURE Move
tape
down
to
fullest
part
of
bust
and
2)
(i)iiint
take
measure.
ME.ASURE Move
down
tape
is
and meas-
4,
.\CR()SS
to fullest part
and
9.15.
1o
SFK
and
9-25.
to pins
placed on back.
Be very
back
the
to waist.
arm
then take
SKIRT MEASURE.
Take waist measure same
as for jacket,
and
for hip
Diagram
4 No.
Diagram 4 No.
13
14
JACKET LESSON
Diagram
I.
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Across Chest
15'
inches
Neck
15
inches
17!.-
inches
Length
"'4
of
Sjj inches
line
From
to
is
Shoulder
From A
to
is
to
to
is
15^
to
This
to
is
inch
is
C E F and B
3/ of bust
we allowed
to
is
jS4
to
is
y^ of bust
to
line
measure plus
A
1
B.
inch.
inches.
254 inches.
is
on
D
G
is
first hip.
From C
4 inches, the
is
B.
7^
more or
}i,
to I is 7 inches, yi of
Square point
and
Square up points
H
I
less
back measure.
up and down.
on
line
D.
7>^
8^ 6
9>^
to Waist-. --7,'/4
LMSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
14
:,
sizes.
inches
inches
inches
15jl'
inches
5.>4
indies
15
-^
-4^
^DO
-^^E
-^DP
4)6
Diagram
16
JACKET LESSON
II.
Diagram 6
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
15 ,'4
inches
Neck
15
inches
7>^
Shoulder Height Back
6 8^4
Neck Height and
Waist. .734 15^
17>^
inches
Length of Shoulder
.73.4
8j4 inches
14
.
.gYz
to
5%
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
C
to
to
to
is
is
>4 inch.
At
G
X
front,
to
to
is
5^
2 inches.
Square over point
1
A O
S,
inches.
and draw back shoulder
Square point 3.
to 3 is 7^4 inches, second shoulder height front.
over IJ-j inches to point 31.
9y2 inches, first shoulder height from. Square point
Draft neck
is
to 27.
the
same
as back shoulder O. S.
I7
31^^)X
-^^E
-i^T
4b
Diagram 6
18
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
9>^
Across Chest
15j/ inches
Neck
15
inches
17j4
inches
Length of Shoulder....
7^4
8j/ inches
14
to Waist.. ..7j4
7>1
8yl
15/4
5-)4
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
E to J is I'/j inches in all cases.
ly4 inches.
This measure varies J4 inch according to larger or smaller size where the back is tight fitting
with two gores.
Waist measure 25 inches, 34 of same is 6^4 inches, which must be divided into Jj back and
two equal gores.
to L is 1 inch.
L to 7 is 7 inches. As we only need 5 inches in this case, the otiier 2'4 inches are taken out
The remaining 5 inches are to be divided equally into
in two darts oi 1% inches each.
two gores of 2j4 inches each.
L to 4, 2y2 inches; 4 to 5, l^s inches; 5 to 6, 2y2 inches; 6 to 7, lH inches.
1'4 inches.
On hip line measure from F to
Draw center back from A through J to \'.
Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure
inch to 15, no
allowances to be made for point 10.
Fake the center of 4 and 5, s(]uare dowi> where line crosses on hip, measure y^ inch to 7S and
inch to 74.
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure j^
inch to 13 and yi inch to 14.
28 to 30 is
inches length of underarm measure.
At waist
J to
line
is
Sy
Draw new
Diagram
19
20
MEASURES.
8^
......38
inches
Underarm
25
inches
Across Back
41
inches
956
inches
Across Chest
15j4 inches
....-8%
inches
Neck
15
Bust
Waist
Hips
inches
Neck Height
inches
14
to
Waist
7>4
6
7j4 15>4
5^
Shoulder
inches
inches
jnches
INSTRUCTIONS.
How
to
line
18,
breasted.
To
line.
line
18 and
mark buttons
inch.
32 to 21
35 to 36
2%
is
Square on
line
is
Shape back
Shape
shown
diagram.
obtain collar and lapels measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23,
Draw
as
inches, ^4 inch
26, 24.
more than
the neck
measure
A.
'
collar
and
lapel as
from
diagram shows.
Place separate paper under collar, trace out according to shape of collar.
To
be reversed on oppositie
side.
lapel,
which
will
11
12
Diagram
21
22
TWO
DARTS.
Diagram 9
INSTRUCTIONS.
8^
Bust
v^8
inches
Underarm
Waist
23
inches
Across Back
41
inches
Across Chest
IS^/^
inches
Neck
15
inches
17^
inches
Length of Shoulder
5J4 inches
Hip
7'4
inches
inches
14
9_^
7y2 inches
8^4 inches
to Waist.... 7J4
15/4
8J4
inches
inches
MEASURES.
front.
Follow same instructions as given in First, Second and Third Lessons with exception
At hip line measure from \' to 10, 15 to 74, "5 to 14, 13 to 18, which is 20>4 inches plus 1 inch.
This 1 inch is taken out between the two front darts at hip line, j/j inch in each.
Draw center front line from 27 through O 18, slightly shaped to 71.
27 to D is 734 inches, the highest point of chest.
27 to
is 1734 inches, length of waist in front.
Draw new waist line from 30 to M.
which is 34 of back measure, on point 30, and measure over 12; 2 inches
Place the 6^4 inches
01 waist measure.
to point 63, which is
is 3 inches.
63 to
i
These 3 inches are divided equally' into the two front darts at waist
to 62, 2 inches.
To place darts, measure at waist line from
line,
of
inches each.
62 to 63 is 134 inches.
63 to 9 is 1 inch.
9 to 8 is 134 inches.
On
from D measure over 3^ inches, and from this point down 3 inches to U.
measure over to
234 inches, and from this point up to the bust line 23/ inches,
From
darts.
at waist line,
draw
a line tip to
the center of 8, 9 at waist line, draw a line up to ^V, and measure down 6 inches from
waist line to 58.
The first dart where line crosses on hip measure J4 in'^h to 59 and 34 i'l*-"!! to 60.
The second dart where line crosses on hip measure 34 in.i-'h to 16 and '4 v\<:\\ to 17 and shape
dart as diagram shows.
at the waist line to 54. 1 incli.
To make garment double breasted measure from
Take
At neck 27
Draw
to 52
is
inch.
to ^1, ^2 to 51
is
4 inches.
inch.
To obtain lay down collar, measure from the deepest point of neck 31 to 23,
Draw line from 27 through 23 to 24, 32 to 21 is 2-'4 inches, '4 ini-'li more than the back neck
1
measure. A O.
Square on line 27, 24, I34 inches to 2't< for standing band and 3 inches to Z'h.
35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring.
-Shape the back of collar from 25 through 24, 21 to 36, as shown in diagram.
Diagram 9
24
MEASURES.
38
inches
Underarm
-5
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights,
Across Chest
15>2 inches
Neck
15
Bust
Waist
inches
8>4 inches
Front
inches
14
to
854 6
9>^
Waist. ..734
Shoulder
7]/2
inches
inches
1-^>^
inches
5^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
French seams.
in the First,
vvitli
the exception of
On
front bust
'line
to
is
to T.
334 inches.
lapel,
to 23,
inch.
2M
Shape
24
Diagram
10
25
26
MEASURES.
38
Hust
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
25
41
1-
IS"/
Neck
15
/yl
17^
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches'
inches
L'nderarm
Across Back
9^^
Shoulder Height Front
Shoulder Height Back
6
Neck Height and to Waist....7>4
Length of Shoulder
8>4 inches
inches
14
Jyi inches
8yi inches
IS^/^ inches
5)4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
front and French seams.
Back shoulder
to S,
On
to
inches.
2%
bust line
to
is
is
in the First,
3 inches.
3)4 inches.
Take
line crosses
on
hip,
measure
)'s
line crosses
on
hip,
measure
yi inch to
10.
the center of 4,
5,
square
down where
7:i,
^i inch
to 74.
the center of 6, 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch
to 13 and y?, inch to 14.
Measure hip from \' to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 18, which is20| inches J/ of hip measure
These 2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip, between 16 and 17.
plus 2 inches.
28 to 30 is
inches underarm measure.
Draw new waist line from L to 30, shape back as diagram shows.
Measure back neck
O, which is Zyi inches, place these 2>4 inches on front neck at point 22,
measure to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure.
27 to
is 7'/i inches, the highest point of chest.
27 to
is 17^ inches, length waist in front.
through
Draw front line from
to 27 and down from .M to 18 slightly shaped to /I.
Draw new waist line from 30 to J\I.
Place the 6J4 inches, which is 34 of waist measure, in back on jwint 30. measure over 12y2
inches, which is '/j of waist measure jilus J
inch, which gi\es us point V.
Take
8^
9 to
These
is
2"/^
and
214 inches.
inches more than the natural waist measure are taken out
in
front dart
between 9
8.
At front shoulder, 32
22 to 20
is
19.
71 to 55 is 2J/2 inches.
54 to 53 is 1^ inches.
Shape the front as diagram shows.
Cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point
points on shoulder 22 and 20.
At neck point 32 is raised "4 inch.
Point 3 remains the same.
Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to -10.
at
bust
line,
Diagram
11
27
28
12
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
To Elbow
inches
Full
Half of Back
19>4 inches'
29>4 inches
Length
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
to
A B. A
line
Square over
pletes
all
given points.
box for
inch.
bust plus
3^2
sleeve.
to
inch, 5
H.
is
the center of
to
Draw
is
inch.
is
is
is
is
to
to
is
is
y^
to
is
the center of
of bust less
J4 of bust, 9 inches.
to
Square down
J/
inch to
Vz inch.
is
'/^
to
inch,
inch.
is
3,1/.
to
N to
R is
Top
sleeve
from
inches to elbow.
inches.
This com-
O, 2V2 inches.
inch.
to
is
to
y^ of
inches.
line
from
J.
through J to E.
J to
is
Sy^ inches.
inches.
l9'/2
Square down S to H.
Square
.S.
GRO N U
G R PO I C E.
lu V.
to
is
6,'/
Diagram
12
29
30
HOW
13
INSTRUCTIONS.
regular sleeve
is
inch from
top.
to
Shape as shown.
is
to
I,
in this
case
is
to C.
3^
inches.
Diagram
13
31
Diagram
14
INSTRUCTIONS.
Keep
elliow in
er,
At
to
is
At bottom,
to
is
The heavy
To make
is
is
This sleeve
is
inch.
to
H
I
is
to
inch, J to
inch,
is
is
inch,
1
to
is
to
inch.
is
inch.
inch.
For regular
line
inch.
At undersleeve,
The doUcil
place.
top,
to
same
sleeve follow
same instructions
as given in
diagram
inch at bottom.
12,
page 28.
2 inches short-
Diagram
14
33
34
BISHOP SLEEVE.
UlAlJRAlM 15
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
inches.
to
A^B.
line
to
16 inches,
is
to J is
_'
is
J to
Square over
is
ail
of bust measure,
')
given points.
Square dovn
to K.
Take center of
to
Square up
is
K B,
yi
to
inch;
i
inch.
to
1'
and
to
is
to
is
Square down
I
2/4 inches;
inch
to
O
1
is
V^
is 3}'4
to
the
3 inches.
distance of
inches.
D to O
A E.
and P
Diagram
IS
35
36
SEMI-FITTING
DiAGRAJI 16
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
41
inches
9j^
Hip
8J4 inches
14
Across Chest
15j^ inches
Neck
15
inches
173/^
inches
Length of
7y^
to Waist... .734
8)4
15^4
/J/j
5^
Shoulder
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
in the First
witli
the exception of
the
back.
At waist
line
At hip F
to
Draw
to J
34 inch.
34 inch.
is
is
At back shoulder
.At
is
Measure from 7
Take
to
to 6,
through
This garment
to 79.
line crosses
on
10 inches.
inch.
hip,
28 to 30
to 13
is
Draw new
and
}i,
434 inches.
Where
is
measure 34 of an inch
7,
vj^
to 10,
of an inch to
anfl ^% of an inch to L.
and 34 of an inch
to 15.
to 14.
To
draft front, collar and lapel, follow instructions given in diagram 19, page 42.
Diagram
i6
37
38
SEMI-FITTING
Diagram
SIDE
17
MEASURES.
38
inches
Underarm
25
inches
Across Back
41
inches
9^
Across Chest
15>4 inches
8^4
Neck
15
Bust
Waist
Hips
7j4
17>^
8J^ inches
inches
14
inches
inches
Length of Shoulder
to Waist. ..-7>4
lYi inches
inches
15J/'
inches
5-^4
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
r^ollow instructions as given in First
At waist
Draw
to J
is
At
'i inch.
At back shoulder,
waist, J to 7
is
to
is
through
to J
\'
to length of coat.
AYz inches.
10 inches.
From
7 to 6
Take
the center of 6,
inch to 13 and
is 1
inch.
7,
square up to 28 and
3,^
of inch to 14.
down where
line crosses
on
hip,
measure
>4
of
and '/&
line take the center from J to 6, and from this point measure y% of an inch to
Square down from this point where line crosses on hip, measure J4
of an inch to L.
of an inch to 10 and Yi oi an inch to 15.
At waist
28 to 30
Draw new
For
8^/2
is
w^aist line
from L
to 30.
same instructions
Shape seam
Take out
To
JS
to
inch at armhole.
collar
lapel follow
same instructions
as
given in
the
semi-fitting
4zL-#f
-n*
39
-#B
m
DIA^;KA^^
17
40
18
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
23
inches
Across Back
8>1 inches
14
._
Hip
41
inches
Across Chest
151-^
inches
Neck
15
inches
9^ 7>2
Shoulder Height Front
6 834
Shoulder Height Back
Neck Height and to Waist -.7 1^34
inches
Length of
7^ 17j4
"4
Shoulder
inches
inches
inches
inches
5)4 inclics
INSTRUCTIONS.
as gi\en in First
At waist
line
to J >j inch.
At back shoulder
T
(
.\t
to
)n
Draw
2-I4
line
back waist
to
to
6 to 7
Take
to
through
\'
J
to length of coat.
3 inches.
is
inches.
hack bust
U is 2
to K is
to
line J
inches.
3-':^
inches.
34 inch.
is
is
5 inches.
is
-H of an inch.
the center of
K, square
down where
line
i'l^'h
io
10
and
34 inch to 15.
Take
of an inch to 13 and
28 to
30
8^2 inches
is
Draw new
waist line
front, lapel
shawl
collar.
and
to
28 and
down where
line crosses
on
hip,
nteasure
-J^
inch to 14.
underarm measure.
to 30.
up
as
diagram shows.
in
Diagram
18
41
42
Diagram 19
MEASURES.
Bust
38
25
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
41
15J.-2
Neck
15
7^ 17^
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
Underarm
inches
inches
7^/2 inches
8j4 inches
^15>^ inches
5^ inches
S'/i
Across Back
Shoulder Height Front
9j/2
Shoulder Height Back
6
Neck Height and to Waist-.-7i4
Length of Shoulder
14
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same
At waist line
Draw
to J is
inch.
center back line from
through J
The back
T to S is
shoulder,
to T,
is
\'
to length of coat.
3 inches.
2'>4 inches.
On
10,
^^2
inch
to 15.
Take
the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure
of an inch to 13 and ^/g, of an inch to 14.
28 to 30 is 83/' inches underarm measure.
Draw new waist line from L to 30.
Shape the two back gores as diagram shows.
Measure hip from
to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to ^3, which is 20J.2 inches, j-i of nip measure, 23 to 18
is !/> inches.
These I'/i inches are taken out between the dart on hip line, 16 and 17.
Measure back neck,
O, which is 2'/: inches. Place these 2' 2 inches on point 32 on front neck,
and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure.
Draw front line from
througli IS to 45.
27 to
is 73^4 inches, the highest point of chest.
27 to
is U'/i inches, length
front of waist.
Draw new waist line from 30 to M.
At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inclies, the same as back shoulder,
T.
From
on front bust line measure 3H inches to W.
At waist line,
to 9 is 3 inches.
9 to 8 is 1>4 inches.
At hip, 18 to 17 is 4 inches, and 17 to 16 is H/> inches.
22 to 20 at shoulder is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on 3, which gives us point 19.
line
line
18 and
and draw
line.
Ijack
from front
mark buttons
as
diagram
shows.
To
obtain collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck.
31 to 23 is 1 inch.
Draw a line from the bottom of lape! at 26 through 23 to 24.
32 to 21 is 2^4 inches, 54 inch more than the back neck measure, A O.
Square over on line 24, 26 1J4 inches, to 25 for standing band, and over to 3S. .Anv desired
width of collar.
35 to 36 is 34 inch allowed for spring.
Shape back of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36.
Shape the collar and lapel as diagram shows.
Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape.
To trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn ]5aper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will
be reversed on the opposite side.
How to cut out the two front gores.
Lay pattern together at point
at bust line and meet the points on shoulder 22 and 20.
At point 32 on neck raise 34 inch.
Point 3 remains the same.
Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to 40.
DlAC.NAM
19
4^
44
MEASURES.
Bust
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
Neck
Length Front of Waist
..8;^
52
39
52
18
18
17
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
Underarm
Across Back
Shoulder Height Front
Shoulder Height Back
Neck Height to Waist
Length of Shoulder
17
9
9'^-
11
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
8 -,-17
S'i
INSTRUCTIONS.
A to li V'/i inches, length
is
iost in cut-
We
We
We
allow in
all
fitting coats.
Take
the center of L, K; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, J^ inch to 15 and
of an
inch to 10.
Take the center of 6 and 7; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, 1^4 inches to 13 and }4
inch to 14.
From the center line of L,
at bottom measure 6 inches to 44 and 4 inches to 43.
From center line of 6 and 7 at bottom measure 4 inches to SO and 6J4 inches to 81, 28 to 30 is 8 inches
length of underarm.
Draw a new waist line from L to 30 and shape the two back gores as diagram shows.
Measure hip from
to 10; IS to 14; 13 to 33, which is 26 inches, !i of hip measure.
33 to 18 is 3
inches.
These 3 inches less i/o inch are taken out between tlie front dart at hip line 16, 17.
This yi inch less we leave in on all stout figures.
Draw front line from
through 18 to 45.
At neck, from 27 to Q is SJ-^ inches, the highest point of chest.
is 16 inches, length waist in front.
27 to
Draw new waist line from 30 to M.
At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3% inches, the same as back shoulder, O, T.
22 to 20 is 3 inches taken out in this case when the figure has a high chest.
These 3 inches we allow on point 27 which gives us point 40.
Shape arm scye from S through 28 to 40. At bust line D to
is 4 inches.
.At waist line
to 9 is 3)4 inches.
9 to 8 is 2 inches.
.\t hip line 18 to 17 is 4^ inches.
17 to 16 is 25-2 inches.
.Shape the two front gores as diagram shows.
For double-breasted, collar and lapel, also how to lay pattern together and cut out, follow the same
instructions given in diagram 19, page 42.
#2-^
Diagram 20
45
46
HIPLESS COAT
Diagram
21
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
I'nderarin
Waist
23
inclics
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
93^2
Across Chest
l5'/2
inches
Neck
15
inches
17j^
inches
Length of
7;4
8y^ inches
14
to Waist-. --7^4
inches
7/2
8J4
15>j
inches
S-}^
inciics
Shoulder
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box. as semi-fitting coat Diagram 19.
Our natural waist line is
E to S2. Go un 21-2 inches, which is point W.
to J is '/2 inch; J to K is 3'/4 inches;
to L is 'ji inch
L to 10 is Syi inches; 10 to 12 is 1 inch; 30 is half of L to K.
Square down to 14. 11 is half of 10 to 12; square up to 9 and down to 18.
14
(^n line 30
to 13
line
18
:ys
to
17;
Length front of waist from U to 4 is 15 inches; draw waist line 4 to 12 and take out between
3 and 2, 1 inch
complete coat according to diagram.
For double breasted collar, and
lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42.
;
24
23
Diagram
21
47
48
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Shoulder Heights,
Across Chest
ISy? inches
Neck
15
7% 17>'j
8}^ inches
14
Front
inches
inches
Shoulder
834 6
7j4
9>2
to Waist....
/.
/'/i
inches
inches
inches
15!'2
inches
^j-i
inches
'4
inch to
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
From V
at
From E
to J
J to
to
to
6 to 7
is
measure Ja
inch.
inch.
1/2
3->4 inches.
is
inch.
'/>
is
and
10,
'2
Measure
is
of inch to 13,
on hip measure
7,
.^g
square up
lo
2S and
down where
line crosses
on hip.
of inch to 14.
as
diagram shows.
This coat
line crosses
inch to 15.
28 to 30
inches.
Take
is 5
in First
is
is
16 inches.
in semi-fitting coat,
Diagram 22
49
50
2}
MEASURES.
38
inches
L'nderarm
.25
inches
.\cross
Hip
41
inches
Across Chest
ISyi inches
Bust
Waist
Neck
Back
14
inclies
&/i inches
8>4 6^ inches
13j/ inches
to Waist.. /j^l
5^
Shoulder
of
inches
10'4
inches
13
8J/2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
It
is
necessary after the regular shoulder heights are taken to allow an extra jj inch on front
shoulder, ^-^ inch on back shoulder.
Length of
At waist
On
coat, S2 inches.
from
line
Square poitU
22.
1')
.^
22
is
is
y'j
line
Draw back
inch.
from 4
from 18
from
through
.-\.
to
13,
4.
to 6
is
from 22 through 6
hi]j line
line
2 inches.
straight line
At front on
to
to
Draw
in First
to
is
to
inch.
13.
inch.
This completes
Draw
l>ack.
front line
from
11
O M
through
to full
length.
Draw
straight line
is
from 22 through
To
to 7
line, as
inch.
7 to
shown
10.
at
Connect 10 with
16,
bottom.
place dart at shoulder, measure from (j on bust line, i-V^ inches over, from this point
1>4 inches to W,
At shoulder from 9
12,
to 8
is
2 inches
3.
8 to 14
is
5 to 3.
is
raise shoulder yi
inch to point 9
8 14
down
14.
to 3.
'
Diagram
2^
51
52
TWO-PIECE COAT.
Diagram 24
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
15^
inches
Shoulder Heights
Neck
14
inches
inches
Length of Shoulder
TYi,
17>4
8J^ inches
14
inches
7y2
Back
8^4 6
Waist... 7^4
9^^
to
inches
inches
15'/2
inches
S^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box, only as semi-fitting coat.
BACK.
1.
square
to 15
2.
is
XYi inches; 14 to 16
is
5 inches;
43J
;
5 inches
garment
now
to
22
is
inch.
W K
to A and 15 through
to T T is about half the
is
draft part of your front from 16 through
;
V V
to T.
FRONT.
1.
Measure underarm 83/2 inches from H to 1 and length front waist 17J/2 inches from U
8 and draw from 8 to L take out on line H between 1 and 2, Ya, inch and make dart
;
to
to
2.
10 to 9
to
is
1^
inches;
and down
to
COLLAR.
Bring your shawl collar down to about 2 inches above waist line front draw a straight line
up from 20, going in at X about 1 inch, and up to 34 from X, 2V\ inches, which is neck
length back O
A; square points 34 to 35, I34 inches and to 32, 3 inches; add for spring
of collar back, from 32 to 33, Ya inch.
;
Draft under collar from 35 through 37 to 38 draft shawl effect from 20 to ii as shown to
get spring of collar draw a line 30 36 and make 27 and 31, 1^ inches from 30 and draft
curve to 36 break line 34 20 under and trace shawl 20 38 y? to get front shawl
;
20-3937.
53
B 2S
17
18
Diagram 24
54
MEASURES.
inches
-3
inches
41
inches
1?/j inches
inches
15
173<2 inches
liust
-^i"^
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
-
Neck
Length Front Waist
Syj inches
iiderarni
Across Back
10
Shoulder Height Front
Shoulder Height IJack
Syi
Neck Height and to Waist. 7^4
Length of Shoulder
inches
inches
inches
153^2 inches
5% inches
14
8
6j4
7^
INSTRUCTIONS.
It is necessary after the regular shoulder heiglits are taken to allow an extra Ij inch on front
shoulder; ^s ine-h on back shoulder.
From .\ to C is />'_> inches, neck height in hack.
Draw a line
to 15, which is 52 inches.
.\
to 19
is
to 20 is 234 inches.
This change of yk inch more or less is according to larger or smaller sizes.
C to 1 is 7 inches, yi of back measure.
Square points D and 5 up and down on line C D.
Square up points (i I and 20 on line C I).
C to P is 63/4 inches, the second shoulder height back.
20 to O is 8>2 inches, the first shoulder height hack.
Square over A and P on line A 15. In squaring over 1^ point R is found cmssing
R to S is >^ inch.
Draft neck A O and draw back shoulder from O to S, which is .1^4 inches.
inches, second shoulder height front.
.\\. front, from 5 to 39 is 834
Square point 39. G to X is IO34 inches, the first shoulder heiglit front.
Square
Draw
line
I.
shoulder from 29 to
how much spring the collar requires, lay the liack part of coat shoulder to
shoulder on the front part, which is shown in diagram indicated by ditto marks.
Square over from the back line of coat A C. From ])oint C to 36 is 634 inches plus '^ inch,
which is the amount required for spring.
Place the spring in the collar by drawing a line through the center of collar at the top of shoulder
In order to find out
.Allow
to
11. ?i^2
inches,
which
gi\-es
us the
amount of
spring required.
Trace out the front part of collar from 30 to 22 to 37 to 30.
Trace the back part of collar from 30 to 11, 36. 21. 34 to ,iO. which gives us the two parts of
collar, as shown in the lower diagram of coat.
Diagram
55
56
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
L'nderarm
Waist
23
inches
Across Rack
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
15>2 inches
Xeck
13
inches
Length Liack
17>^
inches
Shoulder
7}i
SjA inches
14
Shoulder Heights
to
F)aci<
Waist
7X'
8^ 6
7]4 15^
Oyi
inches
inches
inches
inches
5^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draft the same as tight fitting jacket to first hip. except back, which is straight down lo
The l)ack of this garment is always open
full length of garment. 58 inches, to point 49.
^nd has a plait as shown.
2.
3.
Skirt
Draw
13,
measure
first
lines, a
54^V.
36
4.
From
5.
Collar
Turn down
collar.
The
rules are
same
Diagram 26
57
58
Diagram 27
MEASURES.
38
25
Bust
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
inches
inches
41
inches
15^ inches
15
inches
171/2 inches
Neck
Length Front of Waist
7]/^
8^
Underarm
Across Back
Shoulder Height Front
IQShoulder Height Back
S''^Neck Height and to Waist. ...714
Length of Shoulder
inches
inches
8
inches
6J4 inches
15>4 inches
5^ inches
14
INSTRUCTIONS.
coat follow same instructions as given in the loose coat.
For raglan, the back part.
Draw a line from C) to the side of armhole.
Place the square on that line, and let the right angle rest on S, which produces point 11.
11 to
21 is 1 inch.
Shape the top of shoulder from U, 21 to T. The forepart,
to 7, is 1 inch. 7 to 5 is j-x inch.
Draw line from 5 to 18, place the square to that line and let the right angle rest on U, which
produces point 24.
24 to 23 is 1J4 inches. 18 to 8 is ^/^ inch.
Shape the shoulder from 8, li to 5.
From' I to T is
inches, same distance as the back sleeve, D to I.
Place a notch at T and a notch at 5.
.Measure the distance on the straight line from T to t),
I<"or
2%
which is 8 inches.
Measure the distance from 8 to 5 on the straight line, which is 10;/> inches.
Measure the distance from 18 to .^. in this case 5)4 inches, the length of shoulder.
This completes the raglan.
PLAIN SLEEVE
AND RAGLAN
Diagram 28
MEASURES.
Bust
Half of Back
.'....i8
inches
7 inches
Length
Length
to
Flbow
to
Wrist
19^^ inches
:
2934 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
to
is 7 inches, y^ of back measure.
a line .A B.
.\ to L is 1914 inches, length to elbow. 8 to B is 29yj inches, the length to wrist.
Square over points M, L and B.
to S is 9)4 inches, 34 of Inist measure.
Square S down, which gives us point H.
to
is J4 of bust measure less 1 inch, in this case 4-?4 inches.
Square over
to point Q.
N is one-half the distance between .S and .M.
to I is 1 inch. Square over point I to C.
to P is J4 inch for top sleeve.
T to
is 1 inch.
R to
is 3^ of bust measure plus 34 inch, in this case 5'4 inches.
to
is 1 inch.
is the center of
and Jj.
Draw line from
to J is 3^ inch.
through J over.
For undersleeve P to J is 3)4 inches, and G to E is 6 inches.
.At top of sleeve
to
is 2)4 inches.
Shape top of sleeve from I, O, 1^, R, G, E, L lo I.
Shape the undersleeve from Q, R, E, G, \". I', C to O. This completes the plain coat sleeve.
M
y
H
K
to
is
the
same distance
from
to
18
10)4
inches.
inch less than the distance from T to () at the liack ]irt of raglan.
This '<( inch
eased over the shoulder in back.
Sweep at point
backward, pivoting at point Y.
Sweep from point A forward, pivoting at point I.
Sweep from jioint 8 backward and forward, ]iivoting
to 8 is 5)4 inches, length of shoulder.
at point O.
This marks two cross lines, one through X and F. X to 9 is ]'l inch.
F In 10 is '4 inch.
This is the 34 inch taken ofl' from IS lo 8 at top shoulder front.
Shape the top of sleeve from O to 10 and O to 9.
1
to
is
is
Draw
to 2
Diagram 27
Diagram 28
59
6o
It is
4 to
necessary in all loose coats to place a dart from the shoulder to the bust line, in order to
In this case cut out the entire front of raglan,
give the garment proper fit over the bust.
Measure over from the center front
lay another piece of paper under for a new front.
line at point 3 on the bust line, 3^/4 inches to 4.
5 is
From
To
open up to
down
to the
bottom of the
shows.
Split this
.^.
place dart, at shoulder measure from the top of neck over to 1, 2 inches.
Connect 1 with
Pivot on point 5, open the shoulder from 1 to 2,
5, and cut through on this dotted line.
2 inches for dart which swings the bottom of coat from 8 to 7 and 9 to 10.
Mark out
the entire coat from A to neck, 1. 2, to 6.
at the
8,
Diagram 29
61
62
LOOSE COAT.
Diagram 30
IXSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
41 to 39
is
from il
1
to 2.
inch.
Back
T
38
is
is
part.
is
Draw
line
to
from
"hi.
to T.
Square over 38
to
yj
inch.
Shape as shown.
For double breasted
collar
and
lapel,
Diagram 30
63
64
HOW
as diagram shows.
To
At bottom, from
This
may
2 to 8
may
is
down from
5,
8 inches.
8.
At armhole, from 6
It
31
to 7 is 4 inches.
if
desired.
collar
and
lapel
follow
same instructions
as
Diagram
31
65
66
Draw
line
to
sleeve; 7 to 9
to 7
is 3-34
underarm of coat; 9
Draw
a straight line
Shape sleeve
from
as shown.
is
inches,
to 2
is
to 11,
inches
1^
inches; 8 to
from
11 to C,
is
from
7 to
is
we go down
full
length
from 6
to 7 at
18>2 inches,
distance
1^4 inches.
to 5,
and from C
to 4
is
5 inches.
D-
67
4)B
Diagram 32
68
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Across Chest
IS^^ inches
Neck
15
inches
inches
Length of
7% 17j^
85^
14
9>'^^
6
to Waist.. -.7>4
Shoulder
nches
nches
Jj/j
nches
8>4
nches
ISyi
nches
5)4
nches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow diagram 19, page 42 for a semi-fitting coat.
This coat is cut with an underarm gore and body.
From 28 to 62 is 1 inch.
62 to 50 and 54 is l-j4 inches.
Square up at 62 17^^ inches to 67, length of underarm gore.
Square over from 67 to 68 and 66, 1 inch.
Connect 68, 50, 66 and 54.
Connect 50 with 64 and 54 with 64, and this completes the undregore of body.
Cutting a collarless coat you always allow an extension from the natural neck line.
we allow lyi inches raise for the back and front of neck.
Back neck,
Neck
to 53,
point, 32 to 56.
Raise
-)4
Draw
line
In this case
to 52.
from 50 through
to
back gore.
to 61, 6 inches.
62 to 63 is 33/2 inches.
From 60 draw a line through 63 to 60, which is \7}.'2 inches, length of undergore sleeve.
Square on line 60 50 to 58, 6 inches.
60 to 59 is 1>^ inches.
Now shape sleeve 52 through T, 51. 61, 58, 59 through 63 to the side gore from 50 through 6
14 to the length of coat over to 44 up through 15 L and T.
This completes the side gores as diagram shows.
a line
a line
inches.
Draw
side of body,
20.
66
Diagram
67
3)
68
C9
70
INSTRUCTIONS.
At
neck,
to
13.
From
l.-i
12
to
is
1^4
inches.
front shoulder,
.\t
from
5 to 3 is V4
Draw
line
from 12
20
13
to 4.
To
12
13
This
l''or
l'"or
j/\
inch
we
14
take out
13
lose
add on
2f>
13,
.Shape dart
inch.
44
7 to 4.
Between
.\t
-I
lapel at 19 to 17.
down
lapel
Shape back
on
l)ack
collar
is '4
i'l"-"!!
shoulder, 12 to
from
2.52-1
1''4
is
10 to 11
22 10 l^S 20 13 12,
1
11,
as
shown
inches.
iS,
collar.
Square over on
side.
5 inches to 9.
coat.
back part of collar, 13 to 24 is
break line. 26 24, any desired length for collar, in case 15 inches to
Place the neck curve, 20 22, as shown in dotted line.
dotted line.
Shape
on opposite
is
''4
as front shoulder.
as shown.
12 to 4.
in
Diagram 34
72
SET ON COLLAR
AND
LAPEL.
Diagram 35
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
.\t
from 26 to 16.
Break line. Draw
front shoulder 7 to 8
Draw
16 to 23
line
line
from 20
is
line
237
to 3,
723 20 down
is
I34 inches.
Draw
line
from 23
coat,
coat 21
17, as
shown
24
21
line
in
dotted
is
j^i
making same
12
line.
line
24
inch spring.
23
26 16 and
cut away on
on
to 26.
to 26.
inch; 22 to 20
to 4.
26 over
is
20 to 26.
17
20, as
set
lapel
shown.
on same
line of coat,
26 to 20.
Diagram
35
74
TWO
PIECE
Diagram 36
INSTRIXTIONS.
To
place the
10 to 11
is
from
.\t
to 2.
inch.
we take
N M.
Draw
from
line
11
Ct
9 8
\()
1.^
14.
oft'
the
up on
line
front
-I
BACK PART.
I'Vom
Draw
to
<)\er
line
19 inches.
is
to
from
Square over
1)4 inches.
ML J
to
BA.
is
to J
25^4 inches.
P)4 inches.
to
Square up
is
J to
inch raise.
8 inches.
Square
Diagram 36
75
76
3-8
Diagram 37
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
L'nderarni
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
15^
inches
15
inches
Xeck Height
17
inches
Length of
Across Chest
.'
Neck
Length Front of Waist
83^ inches
14
inches
7^
8J4 6
714 15^
inches
9}^
of Waist
inches
inches
5%
Shoulder
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
C D
line
-*ii-'-^
A B.
A
is bust line; C to
height back E is waist
From E
2.
is
7^
to
is
line,
D
G
7^
2^
7^
Draft neck curve back A O and shoulder back O S. Shoulder front, line X to line 3
same length as back shoulder, O S. Draft armscye, starting from S through
is
the
to line 3.
3.
1%
of an inch
6
5,
7,
inches;
6 to 7 is
diagram
K
1^
8,
to
is
inches.
page
8,
10 and 15 are 34 inch from center line; 11 and 12 are Y?, inch from
1J4 inches.
center line; 14 is 3,^ inch and 13 is 34 inch from center line.
Draft gores and back through just given points as diagram shows. Afeasure hip the same as
The front collar and
described in previous lessons, allowing 3 inches more for seams.
4.
to
lapel,
is
8.
Diagram)?
77
78
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
inches
inches
inches
Length of Shoulder
41
Across Chest
15jX inches
Neck
15
inches
7^ 17>^
14
8)4
Hip
Syi inches
10'4
63/4
to
5->4
inches
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
box, shoulder lieights, collar and front are exactly the same as previous jacket lessons,
with the exception of divisions of waist and hip.
1.
The
2.
Waist:
W
3.
L 41^M 42 22; T 30; A 5 into half and draw straight lines down and up
and down between 4 and 5. From these guide lines just obtained, measure on fullness
over hip on each ^ore. Allow for this fullness J4 inch on each side of guide line, as is
Divide
mt^fx
Diagram
38
7Q
80
ETON JACKET.
Diagram 39
MEASURES.
.38
inches
Underarm
.25
inches
.\cross
..41
inches
Across Chest
15>4 inches
Neck
15
inches
Neck Height
17^
inches
Length of Shoulder
Bust
Waist
Hips
7^4
8>2 inches
Back
14
of ^^'aist
inches
8j4 6
7}i 15>4
inches
Si/i
inches
9>4
/'/z
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
2.
in
diagram
18
front line D add 1 inch to
27, and draft line as shown through just given
The dart 8 to 9 is 2j/ inches wide and 3 inches below bust
points to give vest effect.
line.
The bottom of Eton may be made to any desired shape.
From
DlAGI^M 39
8!
82
RUSSIAN BLOUSE.
Diagram 40
MEASURES.
Bust
-58
Waist
2:i
Hip
41
Across Chest
15/^
15
Neck
Length Front Waist
7]/^
1/J^
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
Under Arm
8>^
14
Across Back
9j^
Shoulder Height Front
7>^
8^ 6
Shoulder Height, Back
Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 15>4
Length of Shoulder
5^
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in First and
to J is l>j inches.
At waist line
7
is 9>4 inches.
to
J
In this case we need 634 inches, which is ]A, of
Second Lessons.
K is 3^4
K L is l>i
2-
inches.
inches.
inches.
and 6, 7, is 2 incnes.
614 inches, y^, of waist measure in back.
6
is
L
and
J, K
At back shoulder, S to 29 is AVz inches.
28 to 30 is 8^2 inches, length of underarm measure.
3 inches
is
Draw new
27 to
is
to
22s,
inch.
TO MAKE SKIRT.
Draw
line
from 6
Square up on
to 8,
which
line 6. 8 to 9,
is
!4 of luist
which
is
is
6J4 inches.
is
3 inches,
Measure from
6,
line 9. 12,
line,
10,
16.
Diagram 40
83
84
41
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
9j/2
Across Chest
155^ inches
8J4
Neck
15
inches
17
inches
Length of Shoulder
83^ inches
14
inches
lYz inches
6
7^4 15>^
inches
inches
5^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
For making jacket use exactly the same rules and descriptions used in tight fitting jacket. Diagram in this instance shows a separate lapel, and is made exactly like the tight fitting
Also notice that jacket is
jacket, with the exception of the shape of collar and lapel.
cut through from back gore, point L to front of garment point 40, to which separate skirt
is
fastened.
Skirts
2>2
10 to 19
all
is
3-2
inch;
draw
line
down through
pletes diagram.
19(3>
Diagram
41
85
86
42.
MEASURES.
-
38
inches
Underarm
2i
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Across Chest
ISYi inches
Neck
15
Bust
Waist
7^ 17^
8>4 inches
inches
Length Back
inches
Length
of
14
'.
to
Waist
Shoulder
9^^
7y2 inches
8^ 6
7^ ISj/^
5^
1
inches
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Follow tight titting jacket for back, side gores, back gores, and front, then shape gores
and back to any desired length as diagiam shows.
Using the center front of the tight fitting jacket, shape vest as diagram shows, about 2
The vest in this diagram is the shaded portion of drawing.
inches below waist line.
2.
Measure for shawl collar 1 inch from deepest point at neck line 23. and draw straight
Now draft line from neck curve
line from bottom of front point .^3 through point 40.
front line X to 21 upward and make this distance the same length as neck curve back
A C), giving point 21. Placing square on line 53 2Z, draw a line from 21 through
Draft shawl, starting at point S2> to top of collar (neck back) and draft
under collar from point 25, touching shawl as diagram shows.
point 24 to 25.
line 24
53 by turning paper under and trace shawl toward front as diagram shows.
Place separate piece of paper under the under collar and trace out according to diagram. The vest must be traced out the same way by laying paper under front.
Break
24
Diagram 42
87
88
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
15>4 inches
Neck
15
7^ 17^^
Syi inches
14
inches
inches
Length of Shoulder
8^4 6
7% 15>4
Dyi
7l'j
5^
inches
inclics
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
3,
From
for box.
to J
J to
5 to
is
34
4.
fitting vest.
Collar
is
the
same
as described in
diagram
4L
18
i;
89
24
21
)A
)P
Diagram 4)
90
MEASURES.
3S
inches
Underarm
25
inches
Across Back
41
inches
Shoulder Heights,
15'
inches
15
1/3/2
Bust
Waist
Hips
Across Chest
Neck
Length Front of Waist....
7>^
8J/2
inches
14
..
inches
inches
7^4
Shoulder Height Back.,
6 834
Neck Height and
Waist.. 734 1534
inches
inches
Length
5^
inches
Front
93^
inches
inches
to
of
Shoulder
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
for box.
7 inches, length in back; P to C is SJ4 inches, second shoulder height back; square
is Gyi inches, 34 width of back.
line
S is about 1 inch from
F P to
is
C to
R;
to
is 234 inches, which distance changes;
234 inches, this distance
to
is 8 inches, first
shoulder
changes 34 inch more or less for respective sizes
to
is
and P on
height back.
Draft
line
Draft
line
A O.
X 27.
Connect
is
always
with
is
334 inches
in
back as shown.
to
inch larger
is
3 to line
S.
gore
J to
all
line all
inch
is
same distance
as
O S.
to 4
is
2->^
inches
4 to
5 is
2 inches
The dotted
now
draft
fitting jacket.
inch.
From
Diagram 44
91
92
EMPIRE JACKET.
Diagram
45
MEASURES.
liust
-58
25
41
Waist
Hip
Across Chest
15/
Neck
15
7^17/
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
Syi
Underarm
14
Across Back
9>4 7/2
Shoulder Height Front
6
Shoulder Height Back
8}i
Neck Height and to Waist....7>^ IS/
Length of Shoulder
Sji
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons
Follow same
Our
is
V.
to J is
is
to
to
to
G to 7
is
up 2
inclics to E.
5 inches.
is
is
line
/ inch.
3/ inches.
^ of an inch.
1
inch.
K,
inch to 10 and
AO, 2/
inches.
Place these 2/ inches oii point 32 at front neck and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure.
through 18 to length of coat.
front line from
27 to D is 7 i inches, the highest point of chest.
27 to 4 is 16 inches, length front of waist. Draw waist line from 30 to 4.
T,
At front shoulder, ,32 to jZ2 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder,
on front bust line measure 3/ inches to W.
From
At waist linefrom the center front line measure 4 inches to 50.
Draw
is
51,
is
of an inch.
4/
inches.
inch.
At shoulder, from 22
us point
we add on
point
3,
which gives
19.
Diagram 45
9)
94
INSTRUCTIONS.
Use a block
pleat
to the
is
draw
inches,
2 to
pleat,
box
inch.
line 3
is
finished.
19.
18.
At bottom, from 19
by creasing on
seam of coat.
which
when
to
Draft front box pleat from the front of block pattern. 22 to 33 is 1 inch 33 to 6 is 2 inches
6 to 5 is 1 inch. At bottom, 14 to B is 1 inch; 14 to 15 is 2 inches; 15 to 16 is 1 inch.
Form the front pleat the same as back pleat.
;
To make
measure the distance from 39 to 38 37 to 34, which is the same distance from 11
9 and 12 to 10.
Square over on line 9 10 to front of coat, from this point allow
Shape belt as diagram shows.
yi inch to 7, and IJ^ inches to 8.
belt,
to
For front
collar
and
lapel, follow
same
95
96
NORFOLK JACKET
Diagram 47
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hip
41
inches
Across Chest
155^ inches
8>4
Neck
15
inches
ISj^
inches
17
inches
Length of
SH
inches
Syi inches
14
9>^
to Waist....7>4
Shoulder
inches
/^^ inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
For complete box follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons.
back bust line from C to LI is 4 inches, LT to T is 2 inches.
At waist line in back, from E to J K^ inch. Draw line from A through J to full
J to K, 3 inches.
On
length.
to L, }i inch.
to 5, 2 inches.
inch.
5 to 49,
49 to 7, 4 inches.
7 to 6, -H inch.
inch to 10.
to 13;
28 to 53
To
line
from L
to 53.
C on back
bust line
inch
to 55.
From 27
to
is 17 inches, length of waist in front,
waist line from 53 to M.
Draw new
to
on front bust line measure 3j/2 inches to W, and
is 2 inches. Square down points
and V to full length.
Measure from
to 17, 3 inches, and from V to 16, 2/ inches for height of darts.
At front waist line from 37 to 9 is J4 incli taken out 38 to 8 is I inch taken out, same distance
on hip. Shape gores as shown.
To draft front yoke, measure from 4 on bust line,
inch to 3, and re-shape armscye from 3 to 2.
Shape yoke from 3 througli V
to 34.
For double breasted collar and lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42.
Cut yoke from shoulder to bust line as shown in own in blouse shirt waist diagram.
diagram 81, page 16 0.
From
Q
V
18
20
Diagram 47
W OMEN.
97
98
MEASURES.
Half of Back
inches
To Elbow
Full Length
19>4 inches
29'/2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
to
Square over
I to
is >it
all
29>^ inches,
is
2 inches.
is
full
A B.
is
to
H.
to
inch.
is
the
The
distance
to 4
and S
to 9
is
99
Diagram 48
100
SEMI-FITTING COAT.
WOM:i:N.
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
Across Back
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
15J/2
inches
Neck
15
inches
inches
Length of Shoulder
7^4 17'/4
Syi inches
14
.
.g]^
to
inches
7J/2
inches
8^
inches
15J/2
inches
534 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons.
inch I to K is 4 inches K to L is -K inch
At waist line E to J is
is
Draw back
to 6
4^4 inches
is
6 to
inch.
line
through
to B.
point where
crosses on
square down from
K whichJ
inch
inch
10 and
measure
measure
crosses on
point where
square down from
Take center of 6 which
19
Take center of L
is
and
hip,
to 15.
jf-j
inch to 13.
hip.
line
this
is 5,
7,
}i inch to 14
line
this
11,
to
yi
Measure from 28
to
8>4
arm.
Shape as shown.
waist line from L to 19.
At shoulder S to 38 is 354 inches; R to U is 1>4 inches.
Shape back shoulder as shown.
Measure hip F (o 10, 15 to 14. 13 to 33 ^4 of hip 20j4
Draw new
Square
inches.
on
line
to T, 2 inches.
33 to 18 allow l;4 inches. This 1>4 inches we lose in front dart between 8 9 at waist, 17
16 at hip line.
Draw front line
18 full length.
?7 to
is 17 'A inches, length of waist in front.
Draw new waist line from 19 to M.
to 9 is 5 inches; 9 to 18 is 1J4 inches.
At waist from
At hip 18 to 17 is 5% inches; 17 to 16 is 1^4 inches.
Lose ^2 inch from 29 to 30.
to 40 is 3 inches 29 is 2 inches above bust line.
On bust line
Re-shape arm-scye from 28 to 30. 34 to 3 is 2>4 inches.
Square point 3, 234 inches to 4.
Shape shoulders and gores as shown.
When the front seam of coat is more to the side of coat, it is necessary to place a dart under
the lapel in order to give more Chest.
At shoulder 32 to 22 is 1 inch; 22 to 20 is 1^4 inches taken out. This 1^ inches add on point
Q M
34 to 43.
On
bust line
to
is
2-}4
inches.
double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram
19, page 42, with exception of making a notch collar.
Shape the front line from 41 on box line through O to 42. From this line
draft Vest.
measure out 1 inch for lap. Same distance back for buttons.
To make garment
To
17.
DlAGR.\M 49
101
Collars
Leggins
Hoods
104
50
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw line A
C and B.
8 inches,
J-j
2.
Divide Hne
A B
3.
From D
to
is
Ij^ inches.
line
to
G and
from
4.
Now
of neck measure.
making points
and
into 3 parts,
From Hne
is
J to
to
points
I,
is
E and F
respectively
is
}4
inch,
and
the same.
CHILD'S
51
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
32
Now
2.
line
30
35,
which
is
6^
2 inches; go in to 31
From 34
to
from 26
Now
33
is
29 is 2yi inches.
27 is 54 inch.
From 29
to
28
is
IJ/jinches.
From 30
to 27
is
3 inches,
to
connect 28 with 26 31
32 with 35
34
and
i)
1)
Diagram 50
Diagram
51
10s
106
STANDING COLLAR.
Diagram
52
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
line 19
24
16 inches, neck measure, and di\ide into half for point 25.
Square point
up.
23 to 21
2.
is
21 to 22 is \y2 inches: 24 to 16
25
inch.
15 is
Now
is
HX
15.
inches; 19 to 18
is
D/j inches; 17 to 20
is
i/4
inch;
in
diagram.
53
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw
1
line
to
line
\V to V is 1>'2 inches;
of neck measure, and square lines up.
8 inches,
From V to U is 2'/!' inches, and y& inch from
2>4 niches, height of collar.
is
WT.
2.
Connect
3.
Take
with
and
center of line
ZXu.
Measure from Z
tance as
UT,
L'
shown
to
in
diagram.
54 inch,
to
line
R,
which
is
same
line
dis-
T(
107
108
TAKEN.
54
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Underarm
Waist
25
inches
.\cross
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
15^
inches
Neck
Length Front of Waist
... .7J4
8J/2
Back
nches
14
15
inches
6
Shoulder Height Back
Waist. .7>4
Neck Height and
17^
inches
Length of Shoulder
to
.gyi
nches
7>2
nches
SJ^
nches
15I/2
nches
5?^
nches
INSTRUCTIONS.
First
Dolman
Second Dolman
standing
Take measure over arms, over fullest part of bust, as drawing shows,
:
in
2.
Take measure from center of back, 2 inches above waist to elbow of lady
an easy pose, 3 4.
to wrist,
5.
109
110
OPERA CLOAK.
Diagram
55
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
43
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Across Chest
15
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Neck
1st
Neck Height
15>2 inches
46
and 2d Dolman
10^
inches
Elbow
Inside
to
to
Waist
Wrist
13
inches
inches
inches
5^^ inches
ISyi inches
7J/2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw line
C to A is
A B. C
is
first
Square
line
E F B
on
line
is
waist;
to
at bust).
is
IS.
first
and
A B.
Divide 19
23 inches first Dolman; D to (J is >!> inch allowance for breathing.
inches, 5/2 of bust measure, into quarters, which is 4-54 inches, and measure off from D
to G.
measure oif' Ys of 19 inches plus 1>2 inches; namely. 3j,s inches.
From G to
From C to I is 63/2 inches across back measure. Find center of I and H, which is point 7.
bust measure plus 1 inch; namely, S-}4 inches.
Draw line up on 7 to T, which is '4 of
and D up and down, and up on I and G.
Draw lines on
to C is 7 inches, length in back.
E to J is 1 inch. Draw line from J through C to
J.
C to P is 6 inches, second shoulder height back, and square off on line
Measure from
to N lyi inches.
m
is 8 inches, second shoulder height
From P to R is G'/z inches, width of back Y to
back R to I is 5% inches, first shoulder height in back.
is 834 inches, second shoulder height in
From P to R is 6v, inches, width of back; Y to
back R to I is 6 inches, first shoulder height in back.
From
to 3 is 7% inches, first shoulder height in front.
G to X is 9 inches, second shoulder height in front.
X to 1 is 2 inches. This varies according to size, more for larger, less for smaller sizes.
Square point 1 to point 27 and intersect line at 3.
from line
is the same as
Point
is 1 inch above bust line and 2 inches from line I
O R
and ^V T 4 to line 3.
Now connect
point 4.
27.
X to line 3 is same distance as to R. Draft neck curve front
Hip measure is 21 -4 inches; half of 2l}4 is 10?^ inches; measure this from 17 to 18.
Now draft front line 27 O 18 to 47. which is length of garment. This is a perfectly
is
M M
;
straight line.
5.
Diagram
55
Ill
112
S6
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
15
inches
.\cross
Neck
15yj inches
..-.
18
to
5'k;
to Waist-..
Back
Underarm
inches
Elbow
Inside
7
8
7 15J4
1st
46
and 2d Dohiian
Wrist
inches
inches
inches
13
inches
inches
10'/2
inches
7^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
lines as
A
2.
to
The
49
first
is
58 inches,
Dolman
is
full
distance as
This
length of garment.
For
plaits
is
back.
in
I.
Dolman
called
is
Second Dolman
is
23 inches
and measure to
namely 7, and go up
at
58,
from
line
Front
103^ inches; 26 to 6
H.
line is
same
26.
Now
is
to
line 3.
From 6 draw
line to 48,
diagram for
Sweep same
in
plaits
on
which
is
this line,
measure,
same
1,
diagram
68,
page 136.
less
bac'v.
Follow
Diagram 56
113
114
FICHU NO.
Diagram
3.
57
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Waist
25
inches
Hips
43
inches
Across Chest
15
inches
Across Back
Neck
\5y2 inches
Length Waist
in
Front
Inside
18
Elbow
inches
to
Front
Heights
7 inches
8 5^ inches
7 15^ inches
9
Underarm
1st
and 2d Dolman
Wrist
46
13
inches
inches
lOyi inches
7^^ inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
2.
Follow instructions as
to
2 to
is
is
line,
straight
3 inches,
;
in
1,
through Z to
on front
Diagram
57
115
116
FICHU NO.
Diagram
WOM.i:N.
4.
58
MEASURES.
inches
5^
inches
Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Front
Waist
25
inches
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
15
inches
Across Back
Neck
15^
inches
Underarm
inches
1st
Length Waist
in
Front
Inside
18
Elbow
to
Height
of Waist
and 2d Dolman
Wrist
46
15>4 inches
13
inches
inches
lOyi inches
7>2 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
2.
For
3.
Curve from
plaits follow
our diagram
2.
closely.
waist
line,
3,
with the
Diagram
58
li7
118
DOLMAN
NO.
5.
Diagram 59
MEASURES.
JBust
38
inches
Shoulder
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder Heights
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
Length Waist
18
Front
in
Inside
inches
Elbow
to
5-)'4
Waist
Underarm
\SYi inches
Neck
Back
Across Back
inches
15
to
7
8
7 15>^
Front
Heights
1st
and 2d Dolman
7^
Wrist
46
inches
inches
inches
13
inches
inches
10^
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
lines
Measure hip
Now
measure
man
to
on bust
line,
which
inches,
14%
5-)4
line,
giving second
Dolman
point.
inches, second
point
6.
toward
front.
from 36
Now
to U, the same
connect line U
13
Now
through
draft curve, starting at 6 to
Connect S with 15 as shown.
35 and U.
From 6
backwards.
Now
connect
to
is
a slight curve
Diagram
59
119
120
DOLMAN
NO.
6.
Diagram 6o
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Waist
25
inches
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
15
inches
Across Back
Neck
15^4 inches
Length Waist
Inside
Elbow
in
to
18
Front
Waist
Underarm
inches
7^
Wrist
to
7
8 5^
7 15^^
Front
Height
1st
and 2d Dolman
46
inches
inches
inches
13
inches
inches
lOyi inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
2.
From
is
3.
is
IJ^ inches
from
line
R I
30
to 13;
30
V
16
10
is
to J
is
inch.
10 inches from V.
47, as
10
11
diagram shows.
to
U.
Point
17 to
Diagram 60
121
122
DOLMAN
NO.
Diagram 6
7.
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Waist
25
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Hips
43
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
15
inches
Across Back
Neck
153^ inches
Length Waist
in
18
inches
Elbow
to
Front
Inside
to
7
8 S-H
7 15>^
Waist
Underarm
1st
and 2d Dolman
Wrist
46
inches
inches
inches
13
inches
inches
10,'/.
inches
7^^ inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
2.
35 to 11
is 34 of an inch.
Point 41
sleeve connect line 41 and 11.
The
are 5 inches deep to points 30 29.
is
13
10
for back
way between
is
halt
shapes are
to 41
22
to
30
40
29
shape,
25.
Now
3-1
Now conect 3 ^1
inch between 42
37 and 28 23,
shape line 39 47 as diagram shows.
to 15 is 2 inches.
and
15
and 15 with
making them
39.
5 inches
Take out 2
darts in
deep to points 38
Diagram
61
123
\24
DOLMAN
NO.
8.
Diagram 62
MEASURES.
Bust
inches
Neck Height
43
inches
Across Back
15
inches
Underarm
25
Hips
Across Chest
Neck
inches
15^
Length Waist
18
Front
in
Inside
5^ inches
ISyi inches
38
Waist
to
Waist
Underarm
inches
inches
Elbow
to
1st
and 2d Dolman
Wrist
46
13
inches
inches
inches
lOyi inches
7^2 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Follow instructions of Dolman No. 7 for back with the following exceptions:
8 to 45
is
2 inches.
Dolman No.
L
2.
to 13 is
line 13-
to 43
is
is
inch.
inch,
23
46
45 to 41
7.
Now
break
Now
hip.
Divide 25
tom 37
24
9
4
3.
into half
and
Shape bot-
Diagram 62
125
126
Diagram 6}
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
1.
Take
line
and square
to D.
same
in
M K
Use
as a pivot
and sweep
to
at waist,
lines.
which leaves a
Diagram 63
127
128
TWO
CAPE WITH
DARTS.
Diagram 64
INSTRUCTIONS.
1
Use same
and
find center of
and
P and L
is
connect
J4 inch
from Y.
O T L P K
Square
to 27.
Use
on Une
A R.
as a pivot
Do same
with point R.
and sweep
to
For darts
Diagram 64
129
!50
MEASURES.
Rust
38 inches
First
Dolman
4()
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
From
No.
1,
only making
it
at front
to
the
waist
seam
T and
slightly
Measure distance
point
D,
through
for respective
toward front
to C,
and measure
2.
incli
which
to
in
Dolman
this
this case
2.i
inches,
sizes.
From
to
Now
draft
is
4 inches
line
line.
2.
front shoulder take '2 inch off and allow this on back shoulder, as shown.
to bring shoulder
and
jacket
This
is
increase or
from L through S
completes back.
is
giving point
W.
S.
Tliis
Now
draft
line
completes diagram.
from
Diagram 65
131
!32
i:N
FRONT FIGURE
To
1.
Your heavy
Mark
line in this
B and
bust,
FRONT PART.
and T.
After this has been done, move your front ys of an inch over (parallel with front) half way
between 3 and 4, and grade your dart R, I, H.
front
T.
scye, 10
4,
10 to Z.
Underarm seam
is
same measurements.
to Z, straight
same
down
to
instructions as above,
and Y.
only grading down, using
Diagram 66
133
1}4
Diagram 67
heavy
line
in
.i-16 of
an inch
ohtaininii'
this
point
keeping back on
.Vow
ccjiinect
to (),
10 with
D E,
10.
|)oint
underarm seam,
To make back
BACK PART.
this
'j
D E.
line
inch from
.1
to 4 to
down
lo
oret
point 10.
It
T.
4 parallel.
and 10 with
is
'4
to
2.
inch,
P.
straight
down
to
K.
shoulder and neck correspond with your front, take olT ^s inch on shoulder point,
Diagram 67
135
136
ULSTER NO.
1.
Diagram 68
MEASURES.
Bust
Waist
Hips
-\cross Chest
Neck
.38
inches
Across Back
..25
inches
Underarm
..43
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
15
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
inches
Length Back
5^
to
13
inches
inches
7
8 5^
Waist
inches
inches
IS'A inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
This draft
is
made by
cutting out any jacket, tight or loose fitting, to the second hip.
diagram shows
point
let
line,
be 6 inches below
straight to points
point X, which
To
is
VV.
Continue front
waist
down
line
and measure
inches measure
up
to gores as
1-3
this
of
from
to S,
remainder from
diagram shows.
box and
line
explains
after notch-
straight on line
straight
to
point
V.
Also
note
line.
inches,
Then
to
19 inches
B, and whatever
to
is
2^
missing to
to C,
make 42^4
Diagram 68
137
138
ULSTER NO.
2.
Diagram 69
MEASURES.
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
Hips
43
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Across Chest
15
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Xeck
1534 inches
Bust
Length Back
to
Waist
13
inches
inches
7
8 5^
7 1554
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
in this draft
same instructions
2.
as on Lister No.
1,
sweep go toward
1)ack
to be
front.
l-'ollow the
let
2-3 of remainder of
Diagram 69
I.i9
140
PRINCESS DRESS.
Diagram 70
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
43
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Front
Across C/hest
13
inches
Shoulder
Heights
Back
Xeck
15'4
inches
Length
Hips
..-,
liack
to
Waist
13
inches
inches
7
8 5j4
-15,'/2
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
I
he (haft
is
ah'cady explained
in the
preceding- lesson,
garment of
little
this
flare.
kind
L'sc the
is
same
rules in getting
tlare
and a
train,
1.
Diagram 70
141
142
HOOD
NO.
Diagram
1.
71
MEASURES.
Bust
36
iiidies
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
and
to 1)
fjiven.
E and
line
J',
to
incli
['
and
1'"
id
11
is
al\va\s '4 of
l)U.st
measure. 9
inelies.
S(|uare ])oints
jusl
'lace jacket
to
B.
A
all
is
around
this
curve
is
stitclied
Xow
line
sliows.
draft curve
11
to
.\,
as
I"",
to
shown:
(';
'4
effect
Diagram
71
43
144
HOOD
NO.
Diagram
2.
72
MEASURES.
36 inches
Bust
1.
Top
2.
From F
of
tliis
hood
same
is
as No.
to P is 4 inches, and
for respective sizes
I to
willi
from B
1.
is
exception of
to I
is Sj/>
Now
inch.
to
B being
'/s
of bust,
4j/j
inches.
shown.
Now
draft curve
from
through
to
A.
HOOD
NO. 3
Diagram 73
MEASURES.
Bust
36 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
2.
to 1
is 6'/2
inches,
and
2,
to
is
2 inches
draft line
to
to line J. as
diagram shows.
D(J)-
Diagram
No. 2
72
14 =
Dg>
Diagram
No.
7^
146
KNEE LEGGINGS.
Diagram
74
MEASURES.
Knee
6>4 inches
Calf
Ankle
Instep
7 inches
inches
Shoe Length
9 inches
inches
Full Length
Calf Length
.....20
inches
Syi inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
2.
Draw
O G,
line
to
<j
to
2^
to
and
From G
to
to
is
and G.
down from
I',
giving points
to
is
out
v^
to
to
is
'4
inch.
Shape
line
from
inch.
Draft
line
from B through
P.
through
to A.
Instep from
Q H to
4.
20 inches.
is
B go
ED C
From B
full length,
Z.
Knee measure
3.
and
inches,
Square points O, X, D,
From D
is
is
is
which
to J
is
7 inches.
From Z
is
I,
and
through
J PL
anil
to
to
is
M.
M, which square
to
O, giving button
line.
SHOE LEGGINGS.
Diagram
These leggings are the same as knee leggings,
75
is
S inches.
147
"(e)W
Diagram
74
Diagram
75
Waists
150
WAIST.
FIRST LESSON.
DiAGRAiM 76
MEASURES.
Bust
3?^
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
15V2 inches
Neck
14
.7J4
17/^
14
8^
Back
Waist
inches
Lengtii
inches
Length of Shoulder
to
IXSTRI'CTIO.XS.
I
line
)r;i\\
.'\
to
From A
to
!",
From
to
is
This
D
D
is
to
is
Cj
to
is
to
is
15'_> inches,
',
is
'/i
'4
yi,
length of waist
back.
in 'hack.
E.
B on
B.
line .\,
inch.
In this case
20 inches.
the fiattern.
of Ijust measure,
of bust
7 inches.
Square point
in
first hip.
we allowed
inch
is
jjoints C,
to L)
to
is
4 inches, the
Square over
From C
1.
I)
'
and
Sf|uare up points G.
in
inches.
of back measure.
_>
11,
I
up and down.
on
line C, D.
-9^4
8J4
7'-^
inches
inches
inches
inches
7j4~15j/2 inches
^1/4
inches
151
a D
m-
^t)
E
i\)
^B
Diagram 76
l';2
WAIST.
SECOND LESSON.
SECOND LESSON.
Diagram
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
.\cross
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
41
Across Chest
15J/ inches
Neck
14
7)^
171^
Back
14
8J/2
inches
Length Back
inches
to
Waist
Length of Shoulder
inches
inches
8>4 6
7)4 15>^
inches
5^
inches
9>4
inches
JYa,
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
C
to
is
2^
to
is
to
is
inches.
Square over
and
In squaring
over point
to
is )/2
on
first
line
l)ack.
A, B.
found crossing
is
line
inch.
At
front,
Square point
to
is
to
is
to 3
first
to 2
to 27.
1 1
to 27.
11.
2 inches.
inches.
3.
Draw
.^'4
is
9>4 inches,
Square point
I.
7)4 inches,
y'l
3, 5;k; inches,
the
same
as brick shoulder.
It
is
S.
3.
),
of chest mea.sure.
below the
I,
R.
i)ust line.
very important to follow the draft of arni.scye very carefully, and get the shape as near
as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large,
while a small armscye can easily be made larger.
153
E
4^
4)
Diagram
77
154
'
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
t^V^ inches
Neck
14
inches
7/4 inches
.Shoulder Height Back
inches
6
Length Backand
Waist. .7^ 15>4 inches
ijy2
inches
Length of Shoulder
.7%
14
inches
8j4 inches
.9^4
8^/i
to
5^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in the First and .Second Lessons for Waists.
Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches.
T to S is 2^
At waist line,
inches.
J to
is
6^
fit-
and
K
L
to L
to 7
inch.
is 1
7 inches. As we only need -t inches in this case, the other 2j4 inches are taken out in
two darts of 1% inches each. The remaining 5 inches are to he divided equally into
two gores of 2J4 inches each.
L to 4, 23'j inches; 4 to 5, 1% inches; .t to 6, 2>j inches; 6 to 7. IJ^ inches.
1'.4 inches.
On hip line measure from B to
Draw center back line from A through J to \'.
Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure "4 inch fo 15, }i inch
is
to 10.
the center of 4 and 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch to 75 and
inch to 74.
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure A4
inch to 13 and 34 inch to 14.
28 to 30 is 834 inches length of underarm measure.
Draw new waist line from L to 30. .Shape gores as shown.
Measure back neck. A O, which is 2'/2 inches, place these 2^4 inches on front neck at point M.
measure to 27, which is 14 inches neck measure.
27 to
is 7v inches, the highest point of chest.
27 to
is 17j4 inches, length waist in front.
Draw front line from
through
to 27 and down from
to IS slightly shaped to 71.
Draw new waist line from 30 to M.
Place the Gy^l inches which is J4 of waist measure in liack on point 30. measure over 12^/2
inches, which is '4 of waist measure plus '4 inch, which gives us point 9.
Take
9 to
These
inches
and
more than
is
in
front
dart between 9
8.
At front shoulder 32
20 to 19
2}i inches.
is
2]/;
22 to 20
22
is
is
20, allowing ^4
Shape the
bot-
Diagram
78
1S5
1S6
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Across Bade
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
Hips
41
inches
Across Chest
isV^ inches
Neck
7'/^
I7yi
8^
Length Back
to
.pj^
Waist
8J4
Shoulder
inches
inches
7}4 inches
15^
7 x
inches
14
inches
14
inches
inches
5%
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
same instructions
P'olovv
At waist
is
The
Take center 6
28 to 24
4 and 6
5
I34 inches; 5 to 6
is
3 inches; 6 to 7
of waist measure.
from
line
shoulder
at
up and down.
Draw back
is
7 square
8^
is
Draw new
is
.^
2 inches.
distance between J
to
Take center of
as given in first
to
is
inch.
to A.
43^ inches.
is
From 27 on neck
to
is
7^
down
to 34
is
Wyi
inches, length
front of waist.
Draw new
At
waist in front 34 to 13
Draw
front line
from
13
is
)4 inch.
to 27 slightly
shaped
From
From
(J
on bust
tliis
i)oint,
line to
15
is
3f^ inches.
to
From
29.
\
Measure from
to front line is
down to 35
inches and to 23
this point
1^4,
2j-'4
is
7 to 21,
}i
inches which
of waist
is
taken
3 inches, square
down
l^.
shoulder
I'oint
It
is
lO
is
to 12
11
jioint 3
is
we add on
1'/.
Shape dart
as
shown.
necessary in all linings and shirt waists to take a dart out (.11 shoulder. Then place dart together at points X
14 down to 35, and cut over new front. The dart at bottom between
30 33 will increase as shown in blouse shirt waist.
Diagram 79
157
158
TIGHT-FITTING
TWO
PIECE LINING.
Diagram 80
MEASURES.
Bu.st
38
iiK-hes
Across Rack
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
Hips
41
inches
Across Chesi
1314 inches
^'eck
14
Length of Back
to
6 8>4
7J4 15^
inches
5%
inches
9>4
Waist
7]/^
Length of Shoulder
inches
inches
8>4 inches
inches
714171^
14
inches
inches
LMSTRL'CTIONS.
I'ollow
same instructions
.\t
waist line
.\l
bottom
to
Draw back
to J
is
line
is
from
Take center of 6
is 83/'
I)raw
new
as gi\cn in first
l^i,
inches;
to 6
,s
inches; 6 to 7
is
3 inches.
inch.
F. J to A.
7,
line to
18
is
'4
inch and to 17
is
is
inch.
to 7
At neck 27
to
7J4 inches.
is
Draw new^waist
line
to 27 slightly
from 10
shaped to
From 4
to
13
is
to
y, inch.
Shape front
line
'
>n
bust line
from
to 15
is 3->4
this point,
from
29.
inches.
From
measure from
this point
this line to
down
.s,
l-j/g
to 19
is
Measure over
to front line
3 inches.
inches and to
8.
\yi inches.
13
11
Diagram 80
15^1
160
81
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hips
41
inches
-9%
7%
Across Chest
153/2
inches
14
inches
inches
Neck
Length Front of Waist.
.7J4
17/^
14
inches
Syi inches
inches
8J4 inches
to
nches
Length of Shoulder
5^
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
At waist
Draw
On
line
to J
straight line
bust line
Draw new
to
from
waists.
inch.
to J to
1>4 inches;
is
F; J to 6
is
5y2 inches; 6 to 7
is
3 inches.
underarm.
Take center of 7
17
is
in first
is
which
inch; to 18
-34
is
is
point
square down.
5,
Draw
line
from
5 to
'P.
From
this line to
-H inch.
up
i'roni
to
27 to
in
set in a triangle,
15.
is
down
Id 13
is
front.
I)raw
new waist
line
from 21
Draw
front line
from
to 13.
27 O 13
to 29.
At shoulder take out a 2 inch dart between 12 10 down to 8. Add the 2 inches on point 3
which gives us point 31. Reshape armscye from H to 31, the same instruction as given
in diagram 79. page 156.
Cut through on the straight line from 20 to 8. Lay dart together
at point 12
from 14
10
to 8,
make new
pattern where
to 15 in following lesson.
we
gain 234
Diagram
81
161
162
82
INSTRUCTIONS.
Showing how
to cut a
new
How
to apply or
make
when
11.
line 4
Open
finished.
fullness at
to 15.
over
11
and
more
inches
23-4
and
17
pleat
and 9
inch to 3
to 8 is
and press on
10.
inch.
lines,
From
3 to 2 and 10 to 9
To form
9 and 3
is
10
which
will
For
2 inches.
1
be a 2 inch pleat
Diagram
82
163
!64
TURN-OVER COLLAR.
SHOWN
ILLUSTRATION.
(ON PAGE 163)
IN
Diagram
83
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line
J 1 H
is
break
to
and
."^hape collar as
is i^ inch;
to
I is
1>^ inches,
to
shown.
is
over
center of
is
same as
collar.
to
on page 16).
D.
HB
toGis lYz
>4 inch.
Illustration of collar
Square up points
to J. for
inches,
B L
under standing
same
as J to
and
D.
to
collar.
to C.
Diagram
83
16";
166
BISHOP SLEEVE.
Dia(;kam 84
INSTRUCTIONS.
of bust measuie,
A B. A to J is 4^4 inches, y of bust measure. J to D is
Square over ail given points.
inches. D to B is J4 of bust measure, 9 inches.
Draw
to
line
^/i
Square rlovn
is
to K.
Take center of
to
Square up
K B,
is
inch
'A
to
inch.
to
is
2!4 inches;
to
is
T
J^
^A
to
3 inches.
the distance of
D to Q
A E.
and P
inches.
(S5
MEASURES.
Hqlf of Back
Length
To Elbow
inches
I93/2 inchej
29>1 inches
Full
INSTRUCTIONS.
From A
to
to \'
is
3 inches;
Square down
to
is
5 inches.
J^ inch
down
Draw
Take
Draw
line
to J
to
is
is
v_,
jA inch:
is
uch.
the distance of
Square N
S.
T to R is 1 inch: R lO
is
center of 1], II, which gives us K.
is
up
inch.
Draw
F.
line
G J.
completes undersleeve.
'ihape top sleeve
'=1,
*C. *E.
167
*
X
,m~
fa
In
00
u
<
168
MEASURES.
38
25
Bust
Waist
inches
inches
41
inches
15J/2 inches
inches
14
Ty^l?^/^ inches
Hip
Across Chest
Neck
Length Front Waist
Across Back
14
Underarm
8^/2
7^
9/4
8}i
inches
inches
7 ]4 inches
inches
6
15^ inches
5^4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
.\t
waist
in First
to J is 1 inch.
In this case
10 inches.
line,
to 7
is
2^
:.
to 10.
Un
second hip, where line crosses, measure 2 inches to 44 and Ji inch to 4,v
Continue line from 44 to 79, from 43 to 88.
Square the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down to full length.
Where line crosses on first hip measure, 1- inches to 13 and y'^ inch to 14.
On second hip where line crosses measure 2j^ inches to 81 and l^A inches to
Continue line down from 81 to 90 and 80 to 87.
80.
27 to
is
27 to
is
17}^
Draw new
Measure
|JlACK,V.U
So
169
170
ii?
MEASURES.
Bust
Waist
-^H
inclie^
Across iiack
-3
iin-bes
I'nder
41
Hips
14
Arm
Sy^ inches
indies
Across Chest
13'..
inches
Neck
14
inches
inches
Length of
7^ 17,V2
inches
9'/$
inches
7j-j
ISVj
8j4
to Waist.. ..7 j4
Shoulder
inches
inches
5^4 inches
IXSTRUCTIONS.
same instructions
l'"ollo\v
)n Ijust line
19 to 10
is
from
as given
to 19. 11 to 8
3 '4 inches;
to
20
is
Square over 8
5 inches.
Vi inch: 3 to
is
the
in
is
to
12,
inch.
'/2
20 10T H L 12
3
from
2 inches.
completes
the
joined on the
liot-
This
11.
blouse.
Draw
line
B to 21
is
B.
to
15
Square down
To
'4
bust, 9 inches,
tom of sleeve 17
21 to
is
to
20,
which gives
])oints,
to
shown
is >2 inch; 16 to 17
inches; 18 to 19 is 1
10 to 9
is
j/j
Measure from 6
Shape
is 8>-2
inch
cuff as
is
'4 bust,
the diagram.
9 inches.
This cuff
1.
is
full length.
is
yj inch; 15 to 14
incli.
'-j
of l)ust measure.
inches.
9 to 6. 11 to
Take center
7.
8 to
.;'4
of
is
the
8.
5 is 3^/2 inches.
to 7, 6 to 5, 5 '4 inches.
shown.
is
inch; 12 to 13
is
-Vj
inch; 3 to 2
is
Shape as shown.
in
to
If).
20
P'or cuff 11 to
l.s
underarm of
square
u\).
sleeve,
on point L
in
blouse.
<x'
Oi
Diagram 87
171
172
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
Hip
41
inches
Across Chest
15>^ inches
Neck
14
inches
Length Back
173^
inches
Length of Shoulder
Shoulder
14
9j4
Height Back
to
Waist
7]/^
inches
8^
7%
8J4
inches
15>4
inches
5^
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
to 5
is
3 inches.
in first
3 10 to S.
Draw
line 3 to 22.
10 to 22 is 11 inches, length of sleeve to elbow; 10 to 13 is Zy^ inches, 34 inch less on each inch,
the distance from T to 5 at the underarm of blouse.
Square points 3
Square
Draw
3 to 8
down
10 1322 over, 3
V/i inches; 19 to 20 is
from 3 to 6, 6 to
18 to 17
3 J4 inches and
is 1/2
Shape sleeve
is
14 inches.
line
is
to
is
2 to 4
inch.
1.
to 7
inch; 15 to 16
inch; 21 to 22
is
is 1/2
inches.
inch.
21 17148-47 12 11 1&-20.
this blouse.
is
1>4 inches; 13 to 14
12 to 11
is
Diagram 88
175
174
MEASURES.
Back
38
iiu'lies
Acrcjss
Waist
25
inches
L'nderarm
[lip
41
inches
.\cross Chest
l.^'j
inches
Bust
.Veck
14
7>4
17^2
8'
inches
Length
inches
indies
14
7jj
6 8%
7>4 15>4
93-^
to Wai.st...
Shoulder
of
inclies
S-}!!
inches
inches
inches
indict
INSTRLCTKJNS.
Lay hack and
Draw
line
IS to 11
is
front
from 18 tlirough 17
10 inches.
S(|uarc i>oints 7
12
to 10,
1')
to 8
l.v
inch.
.Square over 11 to
down
17, J4
7.
7 inclies.
t'onnect
1,^
with
11
8.
to 12
I'roni
is
6 inches.
If)
to
''
is
inch.
Shape
tlie
underarm of waist
at
12
'4
inch,
inch,
round as shown.
from
from
14 to 7.
.^
to 6.
and 21
to 22.
Diagram 89
175
176
MEASURES.
Bust
38
inches
Across Back
Waist
25
inches
Underarm
.41
inches
15J^ inches
Hips
Across Chest
Neck
Length Front of Waist
.14
inches
SJ^ inches
15
inches
Neck Height
17
inches
Length of Shoulder
8J4 6
7^
9j4
of Waist
inches
7j/$
inches
15J/2
inches
5-34
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Take your
as
diagram shows.
Bring point
drawn
again, and
Measure on
to
line
Square over S
From S
to J
is
to I
Now
connect
You
will
and S
with L,
lose
from L
E down
is
with
is
to
is
is
8 inches.
J,
6% inches
R with N,
on each
and
side.
with P.
and
to 2
we
allow between
B and
C, which
is
3>^ inches.
diagram shows.
to P. as
N, which
and
Now
Square on point
Now
which
P.
line
diagram shows.
18 inches, which
is
to
as
middle
inch.
L and
The amount we
Then
G T
line
to get
7^4 inches.
is
Square over to
which
S,
From
exactly on
is
IOJ/2 inches,
underarm
sleeve,
to
and
N
N
to R.
to
to J.
to Y,
to
K,
to
and
to
O.
DlAGRAM 90
177
178
91
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
to 7 is 4^/2 inches,
of
17 to B is J4 of bust measure,
taken off the length for the cuff.
line
to B.
inches.
Square
28
23
to
Draw
given points.
all
to D.
yi inch
is
line
from
inches.
To
'ilic
to
is
22 to 21
to 5
and
is
i)ust
">
measure.
inches.
7 to 17
to 28
J/-
is
'4
is
3 inches.
of bust measure, 9
These 3 niches are
of bust measure.
down
Scjuare
sleeve.
^2 inch
5 to C.
14 to 15
to 4
is
is
inch
3'j inches;
16 to 17
.\
to 3
is
is
3j
inch 24 to
inches; 1
:
2.5
is
to 2
_>
is
inch.
!'/
make
l''or
cuff,
draw
line
11
tn 13.
')
inches,
the distance of 12
'\ whicli
sleeve to fit cuff' at 13 to 11.
is '/j
Take center
is
break
at
12.
line for
From 22
to
8 and 10
23 gather
OlAGKAM
91
179
180
HOW
WOM:i:N.
INSTRUCTIONS.
Measure from
Draw
a line
32 to 21
is 2-34
inches, 34 inch
Square over on
35 to 36
2426,
inch.
26 through 23 to 24.
is
Shape back
Shape
line
lapel at
22>.
line of collar
collar
and
lapel as
from
diagram shows.
Place separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar.
To
trace out lapel, break on line 26, 24, turn paper under,
will
lapel,
which
HOW
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
Shape as shown.
in
to
18,
draw
line
Diagram 92
Diagram 93
181
12
PATTERN
i.\srRi'(
sIkiuIcKts idi^elhcr al
|iijiiUs
case 4 inclics.
Al
liacls
Shape
fniiii
_'
t(i
allow
'4
.1
iiicli
for
2
1
spriiijj;.
3 to
'1.
ri(
)Ns.
7.
Make
cc)llai"
any
(k-sircil
wiiltli.
in
Uiis
DiACUAM
94
I83
184
HOW TO MAKE A
INSTRUCTIONS.
from 6
Draw
straight line
From
2 to
Draw
line frorr 3 to
shown.
is
is
at
Collar
is
/.
Make
collar
in thii
6 inches.
to 4.
spring.
J4 inch allowed for
1.
points 4
Square over on
this line 7
inches to
5.
Shape
collar
from 6
a=
DlAGKAil 95
185
Sl^irts
188
HIPLESS
OR HOBBLE SKIRTS
ONE
IN
PIECE.
U1AGR.AM 96
MEASURES.
Length Side
inches
Waist
-25
Hip
41 inches
433/2
Length Bacl<
45 inches
42
Length Front
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw Hne A
to
is
inches.
Square over
We
F and C
to
to
inches '> of
12J{>
waist measure
pkis
to
to I
Draw
in
this
case
skirl.
with E.
j^ inch.
is
is
inches,
waist Hne.
at
Connect
-S
inches.
17^/2
These
B.
J4 inch.
to
Draw back
line
DG
from
I.
line
ZOyz inches,
through
G.
of hip measure.
j<2
to
45 inches.
42 inches.
to B,
From
front Hne
hip Hne
(mi
skirts.
measure from
I)
to
j!-4 inches.
to
S 6j^ inches; S
inches.
At waist
line
Measure from
is
3 inches,
to
to
34 inch,
to (J
to
to
to
is
to
P and V
to
to
1.
I34 inches
N
1
to
and S
inch,
to
VV
10
and
\\
M.
to J
L and U
skirt.
}i
inches,
incli.
.\
and VV
to
V"
( ),
inch.
53^ inches.
is
to J.
to
Hi
inches.
to
is
is
6 inches.
5 inches.
to
63/2
Diagram 96
189
190
EMPIRE SKIRT.
Diagram^/
MEASURES.
\\ aisi
41
.__
Length hroul
Length Hack
inches
inches
-'3
ilip
Length Side
4.^'..
4.i
ihcIk'.-
47 inchcinches
l\s'J4-;ii;ti()XS.
hue
)ra\\
-\,
11.
4 inches.
Si|uare over from .\ lu
to
is
1'
ami
These
Ici
1'..
li'j inches.
taken
3 inches are
'
of
(JUt
.^
inches,
ni
thi>
line!
I*"
to
to
is
is
'
_>
-5/4
inch.
of an inch.
Draw
waist Hne K, L
Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G.
.Measure hip, D. G. which is 20' 2 inches. '2 of hip measure.
Til make skirt Empire, measure up from the natural waist line, K. I, _' inches, which gi\es us
])oints Z and O.
Lonnect Z to O.
Xow draw a hne from O through 1, ii hi 11. A7 inches, length of skirl in hack.
The front length from Z to H. 44 inches.
)n
Draw
a line
from
to
is
through
.3
niches,
to
is
to Enipn-e waist
(1
inches,
and
to
\'
is
n inches.
line.
'4 inch.
At natural waisl line measure from X to 1' '4 inch and X to
inch, and shape
At top of waist line measure from 8 to ') % inch and from S to 7,
shown.
to Em|)ire waist line.
Draw a line from S through
;
inch to M.
From \\" measure V4 inch to .\ and from
to 4, is.\s inch.
to 6, is -Vs inch, and from
.\t top of waist line measure from
Shape dart as shown.
Draw a line from R through \ to luiijiire waist line.
Measure from Y to L s,s inch and from ^' to J S-s inch.
At top of waist line measure from 2 to 3. ' j inch and 2 to T, is '/. inch.
(
,'
.'i
to
is
,s
.3
5 inches.
.Sha])e dart as
shown.
<lari
as
Df.\(.u.\M
97
191
192
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Front, length
40 inches
Hip
41 inches
Right, length
42 inches
Back, length
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS
is
the center of
from 9 up
B H.
Draw
to 3-15 inches,
from 9 over
to
line
from
in
W.
to 9.
To form
bottom
at
This completes
skirt.
At bottom, measure
Diagram 98
193
194
HOBBLE SKIRT
Diagram 99
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Front, length
40 inches
Hip
41 inches
Right, length
42 inches
Back, length
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
a line
to
A B.
4 inches.
is
S.-juare over.
to
F and C
These
to
3 inches
have
to
sweep
less
Connect
with E.
is
G
F
to
to
I is
Draw
is
at the
line
inches.
skirt.
inch.
to
I.
Draw
We
17',-2
inch.
waist line
At front
Dottom of
line.
case
in this
from 2
line
6 inches
to dotted line
D G.
inch and x to
is
>4 inch.
back on
hip,
Square over 3
to
is i/i
to
to
1,
draw
inch.
is
from
line
to J
is
is
Ayi inches.
3 to
through R to Y.
inch.
Shape as shown.
Draw
of
R and T
the center of
from S
to
line
W.
from 2
at
on
hip.
waist
to
skirt to
line,
is
S.
Q.
to Z.
to
is
l;4 inches.
is
5 inches.
in
ordci
Diagram 99
195
96
PANTALOON
SKIRT.
Diagram 100
MEASURES.
Waist
Hip
IS inclies
Length Front
41 inches
Length Side
Length Back
45
42
inches
43>..
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw hne A B.
to C is 4 inches.
Square over A to F and C
to
inches.
C to K is 3^2 inch.
F to I is -yi inch.
Draw waist hne K
to
at the
througii
to
1.
K. W.
inches to dotted
D G is 20J/2 inches, ".^ of hip measure.
Draw back line from I through G to H, 45 inches.
Side length, 43/2 inches.
Front length, 42 inches.
Shape bottom as shown. This completes bo.x.
line
line
14 to 12
is
23/ inches.
At bottom, from B to 10
.Shape to]) as shown.
.\t
l)Ottom, 7
Draw
is
1/2
is
from 7 up to W.
At waist line, measure from
line
W to N
W to M
6y2 inches.
W down to
234 inches.
is Zyi inches.
From S to U. 4 inches.
From S to T, 4 inches.
At bottom, 7 to 8 is 6 inches.
7 to 6 is 6 inches, draw line.
Shape top gores as shown.
At center back on waist line I to
.At
to
S, 16>4
is
3S inch.
34 inch.
is
H.
is
hip to
3 to 2
I!
to 3, IH'/j inches.
1,
8 inches.
234 inches.
tjic
skirt.
3 inches.
At bottom, B to 9 is 6 inches
At back.
to
is 3 inches.
At bottom.
to 5 is 6 inches.
Shape as shown.
Center front and back panels are cut on the fold of material.
to
is
G.
17'/.
Diagram 100
197
198
CIRCULAR SKIRT.
Diagram
101
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Leng-th Front
42
inclies
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
43'/2
inches
Length Back
45
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
to
a line
is
B.
4 inches.
Connect
to
is
to
is
3 inches.
straight
1^
Draw new
hne connecting
the center of
is
S'/^
is
inches.
i)()int
U.
inches.
Measure hip
Draw
from
a line
with L
K, which gives us
through
The
to
inch.
Take
to
F and C
with E.
D^aW
to
to G,
front length
which
is
line
21
through
to
is
from
to
to
6 inches
1.
to dotted line
G.
measure.
in back.
42 inches.
To make
from
to
To form
to
M.
to
5 inches
skirt.
and
to J 5 inches.
and meet
at center
back
line
J.
Diagram
lul
199
200
THREE-GORE SKIRT.
Diagram
102
MEASURES.
25 inches
Waist
Hip
42
Length
Draw hne A
to
inches
Length Front
42
Length Side
iSyi inches
A5
l!ack
inches
B.
4 inches.
is
Square over
F and C
to
to
to
is
'/j
of
Connect
with E.
From C
to
to I
Draw
Take
is
is
1^
inch.
inches.
a straight
hne from
the center of
and
1.
from
I.
through
1\.
Draw
a line
G, which
from
through
to
At the bottom B
Draw
a line
to
from
to
is
to
is
is
is
to
7 inches.
to L.
an inch and L
J4 of
T and O
to
of skirt in back.
.-kirt.
to
to T.
to G.
4 inches.
Measure from
G.
3 inches.
42 inches.
is
through
to
Measure from L
to
\'
inch to
to
'
21
is
20 measure down
this point
inches
inch and
S and
to .M
to S.
skirt.
inch.
J/^
of an inch.
iv.
1/j
indies,
in
Diagram 102
201
202
MEASURES.
--
Waist Measure--
Hip
inches
Measure
Length
42
iiiclies
42 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1
Follow
201^.
2.
to
to
y
L
IS
is
,',4
Flounce from
as a pivcjt,
Using
inches.
to j
in
hack
is
inches,
1(>
as a pivot,
sweep curve B
and
in
front,
to
K R.
1.
is
from
IJ
to
K, 8 inches.
straight through
to y.
L'sing
to j.
us
Diagram
10 <
203
204
GORE
FIVE
*
Diagram
SKIRT.
104
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Length
liip
42 inches
Length Side
Lengtli
l'"rnnt
47
llacU
43
inches
45>'2
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
i'ollnw
l:)Ox
as given for three gore skirt in diagram 102, pagelOP, witli the
This gore is ol)tained by taking 16 the (hstance from \' to
Take
,!/>
the distance
Xow draw
a line
Measure from
Measure from R
from
from
to
I'
1
to AI
fi\'e
to
on
hip.
S.
through S to R.
inch.
inch,
gored
''
and
sliape gore
skirt.
from
to
.S
;md
to
J.7
S as diagram sliows.
Diagram 104
205
206
1'
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Length Front
42
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
43>4 inches
Length Back
Draw
to
line
B.
F and C
to
C
!
to
is
to
is
Draw
inch.
1^
inches.
Draw
hip,
line
to G,
from
from
straight line
Measure
thi,--
line.
with E.
the center of K,
Take
inches
4 inches.
is
Connect
45
inches
to
go down
I,
'^ incii
which
to
to
is
to G.
is
through
line.
skirt
in
back.
42 inches.
The
to 3 at bottom
From
Now
.-\t
this
line %
is
to T,
Draw
inches.
measure inch
3 inches.
is
a line
to
3 to
From
this line
From
inch to
and
skirt.
to T,
and
to T.
which
line.
1
Inch to
From this
a line through R to waist line.
K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R.
draw
to
to waist line.
Draw
to
measure
from 3 through
line
measure ^s inch
to
to
M to S.
and % inch
S and
Diagram
105
207
208
GORE
NINE
SKIRT.
Diagram 106
MEASURES.
\\'aist
25 inches
Length Front
4,^
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
45>2 inches
Length Back
47
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
same instructions for box
P'ollow
to
Draw
at
bottom
is
to T.
page lOh.
254 inches.
is
to waist hne.
to
and
()
measure
>4
inch to
P and
^4
inch
to T.
the distance from T to G and divide equally into 4 gores of 43/2 inches each, which gives
us points S, R and O.
At bottom take
Draw
10.^,
6 inches.
Take
at hip.
diagram
as given in
a line
to
from
a line
From
this line
Draw
a line from
1,
from 2 thr(jugh R
through
S and
this line
into 4 gores of
measure
s,s
C)-54
inch to
inches each,
N and
'^.s
inch
to S.
to waist line.
measure rn inch
to
From
Draw
to II
to
L and
.\s
From
to waist line.
J
to
skirt.
and
to
O.
this line
measure
',2
to
inch to
R
J,
and
'j
to R.
inch to
Diagram 106
209
210
107,..'
MEASURES.
Waist
Hip
3*+
Length Front
Length Side
inches
48 inches
Length Back
45
42
inches
inches
433/1
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
to
a Hne
is
B.
inches.
in
this
The
D to Y, is iVi inches.
6 inches.
5 through to Y to waist line
of an inch to \5. and shape gore from
front gore at
B to 5 at bottom
Draw a line from
p/s
of an
liip,
is
from
to
this line
and
measure
'4
of an inch to
\"
and 34
to Y.
and divide equally into 5 gores, 4 inches each, which gives u.s
to
points T, S, R and Q.
.\\. the bottom take the distance from 5 to H, anr' divide equally into 5 gores of 8 inches each,
give us points 4, 3, 2 and 1.
Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. From this line measure '/ of an inch to P and Y^
to T.
of an inch to O, and shape gore from P to T and
Draw a line from 3 through S to -waist line, from this line measure >4 of an inch to N and Yz of
to S.
to S and
an inch to M, and shape gore from
Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line.
From this line measure J/, inch to L and Y2 inch to K.
Draw
From
line.
to T
and
V^ of an inch to
I,
J to
Diagram 107
211
212
WOM:i:N.
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Length Front
43
inches
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
45J-4
inches
Length Back
47
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box as given
Front gore
at hip,
6 inches.
to 15
Draw
is
to
to
15 to
From
this line
Draw
I,
Draw
measure
5^ inch to
From
into S gores,
yi inch to
this line
measure
Yb inch to
P and
inch
to T.
line.
and
'^ch to
from
line,
to
S and from
to waist line,
to
and
this line
measure
this line
J/ inch to L, Y2 inch to
I to
from
Q.
to J
the flare on this skirt go down from waist line 12 inches on each gore.
front gore go out 1 inch from 15 io 14.
2 inches
from 15
to 16,
and
and 9 to
8.
The
5.
No. 2 from
1,
2 and
3,
and 3
7,
No.
to 13,
4,
1
At the bottom
to
H.
to
to 16, across
bottom
to 11,
up
down
to
center.
and P, over
at waist line.
to S, 10 across
bottom to
The other
Y& inch to
to 2.
and from
from
and
12 to 11.
The
from 12
K,
to R.
To add
to
and
to S.
I,
inch to
and Q.
Draw
page 20U
Draw
105,
Y, 3 inches.
Take
diagram
in
up
to
tc
R. L, and over to
and
I,
go
in
Ya-
inch to
to waist line.
I at
lint
three remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched one after the other.
Diagram 108
213
>
214
MEASURES.
Waist
25 inches
Length Front
Hip
42 inches
Length Side
Length Back
45
43
inches
45^2 inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20u
Front gore at hip, D to Z, is 3 inches.
Ij to 17 at bottom is
inches.
Draw a line from 17 through Z to waist line.
From this line measure '/i inch to X and ;,4 inch
to W, and shape gore from X to Z and
to Z.
Now take the distance from Z to G
and divide equally into 6 gores of 2f4 inches each, which gives us points Y, T, S. R
and g.
At the bottom take the distance from 7 to Fl and divide equally into b gores 7^4 inches each,
which gives us points 14, 11, 8, 5 and 2. Now draw a line from 14 through Y to waist line.
From this line measure :Ks of an inch to V and -/fi of an inch to I', and shape gore from V
to Y and U to Y.
iJraw a line from 11 through T to waist line; from this line measure 'j inch to 1' and
inch to
O, and shape gore from P to T and O to T.
Draw a line from 8 tlirough S to waist line. From this line measure ;>ii of an inch to .\ and j/g,
of an inch to M. and shape gore from N to S and
to S.
Draw a line from 5 through R to waist line. From this line measure -ji of an inch to L and Vn
of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R.
Draw a line from 2 through O to waist line. From this line measure J4 '"^-h to [ and V4 inch
to I, and shape gore from J to O and I to O.
To make pleats in skirt, measure down from waist line any depth desired, in this case 18 inches
down on front gore and 1 inch higher on each gore to the back.
To make the pleats in skirt, measure from the straight line 1 inch to 30 and 1 inch to 29.
From straight line 1 inch to 28 and 1 inch to 27. |_'
From straight line I inch to 26 and 1 inch to 25.
From straight line 1 inch to 24 and 1 inch to 23.1
I'Vom straight line 1 inch to 22 and 1 inch to 21.
From straight line 1 inch to 20 and 1 inch to 19.
At the bottom of skirt measure 2 inches at the first gore from 17 to 16. second gore 2 inches from
17 to 18 and 2 inches from 14 to 13, third gore 2 inches from 14 to 15 and 2 inches from
11 to 10, fourth gore 2 inches from 11 to 12 and 2 inches from 8 to 7, fifth gore 2 inches
from 8 to 9, 2 inches from 5 to 4, sixth gore 2 inches from 2 to 3.
To trace out gores 1. 2 and 3.
.\o, 1 from \V to Z to straight line over to 30, down to 18, across bottom to 13, and up to 27.
over to straight line up to Y and V, across waist line to W.
No. 2 from O to T, down straight line, over to 26, down to 12, across the bottom to 7, up to 23
to straight line, up to S, to N, over to waist line to O.
No. 3 from K R to straight line over to 22. down to 6, across bottom to 1, up to 19, over to
straight line, up to O to J, across waist line to K.
The other four remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched on after the other.
This completes the 13 gore pleated skirt.
'
..
Diagram
09
215
216
GORE
FIFTEEN
Diagram
SKIRT.
10
MEASURES.
Length Front
Length Side
25 inches
42 inches
Waist
Hip
Length Back
43
inches
ASyi inches
inches
.....47
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions for box as given
Draw
From
3 to T,
inches.
is
diagram
in
105,
page 20L)
3 inches.
to Y.
a line
Draw
From
this line
skirt.
to
L and
yi
and
yi
to J
Diagram 110
217
Riding Habits
and
Breeches
220
ill
MEASURES.
Hip
Waist
42 inches
Length
42 inches
25 inches
Side
43 inches
Back
44 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Front part, draw
AB
is 3^4 inches;
inches
to 7
inches;
to 3
to 12
A B,
line
A
A
41J4 inches.
to
49 inches.
is 5 inches;
to 10 is 5M inches; A to 9 is 7 inches; A to 8 is 8
9y2 inches A to 9 is 14^/1 inches A to 5 is 29^ inches A to 4 is 333/2
35>^ inches; A to 2 is 39 inches; A to 1 is 4I>^ inches;
to C is 49
to 11
is
is
inches.
Square downon
all
2%
to
Connect
to 25
is
is
41)4 inches.
D.
3 inches
to
26
is
22
to
8 inches.
is
Liii^.ii:ir^
5>4 inches
to 23
is 7>34
inches
to
24
is
11 inches.
is
At waist
line,
Draw
3|4 inches; 23 to 20
from 14
to 15
to 19, 21 inches,
]/>
7^2 inches.
Make
is
is
all
points to
Between points 34
6.
35 make a loop
line
from 1314
line
from 21
inch wide.
Draw
Measure dotted
The heavy
line in
pocket indicates
1516171861931302928272625242113.
in
illustration.
Diagram
111
221
222
BACK PART OF
'-"
SKIRT.
Diagram 111
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
A B,
line
34-)4 inches.
to
A
A
A
A
to i7
A
A
to 52
A
A
A
A
A B
46 inches to C.
lYz inches.
is
line
to 36
5^
is 7%
to 35
is
10 inches.
to 34
is
11
is
\2y2 inches.
is
to 31
is
to 29
is
inches.
inches.
inches.
133/2 inches.
17 inches.
.
28
is
26>4 inches.
to 27
is
39/2 inches.
to
to
is
46 inches.
to 2 is
434 inches.
i7 to 39
36 to 4
is
10^
inches, to 38
is
15 inches, to 14
is
1434 inches, 35 to 5
is
9 inches, 34 to8
is
is
18'4 inches; 15 to 17
is
15 inches, 32 to 6
11%
is
2734 inches.
inches, 31
to 7
is
Square down 18
-Square
From
down B
11
to 13
to 20, 18 inches.
to 19, 14 inches.
is
3'!'
Draw
inch, 12 to 15
15 to 14,
13 to
-^.s
inch.
14.
1.^
waist line from 16
13 to 10.
for hip.
Measure dotted line. 17
19,
IO34 inches, J4 of
From 20
Shape
to 22
skirt
is
4 inches, 22 to 21
from
is
37.
33,
6 inches to dotted
measure.
line
li'P
inches,
;4
of
to dotted line
Draw
hip measure.
334 inches.
373330282625242321201917161513109
8756-432.
At point 19 ease
in
]/>
5.
line
skirt.
Diagram
12
223
225
226
11}
MEASURES.
25
Waist
Hips
inches
43 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
lines
and
to 4
is
ly^ inches,
to 7
is
20 inches,
Square points
4 to 9
is
2.
to 6
to 5
4, 6, 8,
8 inches,
to 8 is 12J^
il inches,
to 3
is
is
7 and
line
7^
is
TYi inches, 7 to 12
on
inches, 6 to 10
is 2^/2
8 to 11
is
inches.
46J^ inches.
is
3.
inches, 6 to 13
is
8J^ inches.
6^4 inches, 5 to 31
is
47 inches.
17 inches.
32,
31.
to 15
is
12 inches,
to 16
is
12>j inches,
to 19 is 213^2
to
20
is
25 inches,
to 21
is
30>4 inches,
to 2
Now
square points
15 to 14
2 to 25
Now
is
16,
19,
734 inches, 16 to 17
534 inches, 2 to 26
21 and 2 on line
is
is 6-'4
25 to 24
Now
is
15,
is
draft
2Y\ inches, 26 to 27
is
is
inches, 2 to
29 on line 2
1
'
30
is
2.
is
is
is 3j/2
inches.
10>< inches.
29.
and back,
XIV^ inches, 21 to 22
9 inches, 2 to 29
inches, 30 to 21
357910^11131418
pocket.
4 inches, 19 to 18
to 31.
11 to 12
34-J4 inches.
is
1
inches.
is
634 inches, 29 to 28
is
5>2 inches.
1720222324272830 down
227
Yront part
'-i^
^32
33
DiAGRAMll)
228
INSTRUCTIONS.
For back part draw
to
is
9 inches,
Square points F, E,
to
to
to
N
R
to
AC
is
A B.
A
line A C.
and
15^
and C on
inches,
Now
to
is
25^
is
to
6-j4
inches,
to
is
48 inches.
10 inches.
is
49i/2 inches.
inches.
line
T S Y.
to
is
W down X
X, Y, C.
connect XV UT, X T
Draft
to
is
Square point
Draft bottom
A
A
lines
is
38 inches.
3 inches,
is 6j4 inches,
to L is 10j4 inches.
to
to B is 22>2 inches.
1834 inches,
Square points G, K, L and P on line
B.
to J is 5 inches, L to
is 1% inches, P
is -54 inch.
to
is 7 inches,
draft
down to Y.
If the width of the material allows to put the back part in one piece, leave out dotted line.
G H
Now
is
is
M
C D F H IJM NO BQ R
K
Diagram 114
229
230
1 1
MEASURES.
Waist measure
25 inches
Lengtii
40 inches
Hip measure
44 inches
Rise
12 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
1.
Draw hne
A B.
.\
t(.)
is
!/4
.\
lo ])
is
I)
to
is
r.
hip measure,
full
I'se
2.
inches.
length. 40 inches.
L'se .\ as a pivot
1)
11
and sweeji
to
L and
1)
it
inches below
and from F
to J
hi|))
|)oint
V.
do same
to
.\1.
to S.
Draw line C through E to G, giving point 13. 13 is now exactly the liij) measure from F.
This diagram shows two inverted plaits; one in front and tiie other in liack.
Make plaits
K L and (> inches at bottom R P O, as dotted line shows: the
2 inches on top D
same
3.
in back.
J S T
.\
to
is 4'/4
measure
inches
to
to
to
is
is
iyi inches.
7 inches.
Con-
is fi inches.
Connect L M O to R.
around from waist line, allowing 1 inch
all
from
231
\<P
^O
12
Diagram
232
RIDING BREECHES.
Diagram 116
MEASURES.
Hip
Rise
25
Knee
42
Small of Knee
inches
inches
ll-M inches
inches
30
Waist
-
Inseam
16
inches
inches
14
14>^ inches
10
inches
Calf
Angle
FOREPART.
From A square out and down.
to C is 11-34 inches, rise measure.
C to E is Yi of inseam less 1 inch, 14
inches.
is
to
is
C
f
to
to
1 ;/>
inch.
Draw
This
V^ inches.
1315.
in
line
is
inches.
44 inch,
26 is ^2 inch L to 27 is 1 inch
27 to X is 634 inches 7 to Z
;
8 to 7 is y^, inch
6^4 inches 6 to
is
2028 P H IX Z 1.
T 26 277
\'
to
is
is
2 inches
26
to
is
7 inches
654 inches.
6.
BACK PART.
Draw
Draw
line
line
from U through
from 16 to 17,
T and
83-2
up.
I'lace
inches, 2>2
to
is
2 inches, J to
Measure 26
to
1,7 inches.
is
inch,
to 12
is
232021221921.
2 inches.
Measure over
to 10, 16 inches
knee meas-
ure.
From 6
to
is
5,4 inches.
Shape as shown.
Point 4 is 1/^ inches below calf.
Shape back part from 18 17 12 109ON.
27.
At top, from 29 16
For under lap on back part 9 to 8, N to 5 is 1 3/2 mches.
T W Y
DiAGRA.M
16
233
234
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS
CHILDREN
Sizes
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS
MISSES AND JUNIORS
Sizes
235
236
FIRST LESSON.
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER.
DiACRA.M
119
MEASURES.
Bust
28^2
inclies
Waist
26^/2
inches
Hip
32
inches
Across Chest
12
inches
Across
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
Back
6
6^ Ayi
5>^ 11^
8
13^/2
inches
inches
inches
11
4^
Sleeve
inches
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Uraw
A B.
.\ to E is 11 j^ inches, length of
5^4 inches, neck height in back.
F to B is inches, second hip. Square over
is 4 inches, first hip.
C E F B on line A ^B. C to D is 3/2 of bust, 14 '4 inches plus 3 inches allowed for
In a three piece coat we allow 3 inches for seams, and in a two
seams, 1/34 inches.
piece coat we allow 2 inches for seams.
line
waist in back.
to
Q
is
is
]4,
to
is
to
-I
to
to
G H I
on
Square up
is
is
line
'4 of bust
5^/2
inches,
D.
to
237
m^
4f>
4^
4t)-
#
Diagram 119
238
SECOND LESSON.
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER.
Diagram 120
MEASURES.
Bust
28J/2
inches
Waist
26^
inches
Hip
32
inches
Across Chest
12
inches
Across Back
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
to
6
6)4 4^
11%
8
Waist
...5J^
11
inches
inches
inches
inches
4)4 inches
Sleeve
133^2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
For box follow instructions as given
to
to
2 inches
is
is
6^
to
to
is
is
is
O S,
line
I.
to
over A-
is
'/z
on
line
A B.
inch.
4-j4 inches.
to 3 is 6 inches,
8 inches,
2 inches.
found crossing
.'square
A O.
First l^esson.
At
is 4j/<
in
first
Square over
Square point
Square point
3.
17.
to
to 27.
Draw
front shoulder
chest measure.
from 17
to 4.
O S.
to 2 is
6 inches, yi of
Diagram
120
239
240
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD REEFER.
Diagram
121
MEASURES.
Bust
2834 inches
Waist
261^ inches
Hip
32
inches
Across Chest
12
inches
Across Back
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
to
6
6>4 4^^
1L>4
8
Waist
...Sj^
inches
inches
inches
11
4^
Sleeve
inches
inches
13J4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
For box follow same instructions as given
At waist
line,
to J
is
inch; J to
'i
in First
is
3 inches;
to
y^ inch;
is
to
is
4 inches; 4 to
5 is -H inch.
Take center of L
to
Take center of
hip,
line crosses
on
first
'i
inch
to
at
6,
Where
line crosses
on
first
hip measure 34
'ncli
inch to 11.
from F
At back neck,
From S
to 12,
On
15.
to
to
and 16
34 inch.
is
Draw back
yi inch.
is
to
is
shoulder to 29
is
line
from
Draw
W A J V
line
from
to
tfj
From
16.
to T,
as shown.
3 inches.
front,
on
hip,
18 to 19
is
134 inches.
Draw
front line
from
Q 19
to 17.
For
lapel
back measure,
WO.
To
To
collar
from 25
21
2-1
26
on opposite
22.
Shape
collar
and
lapel as
Draw
inch.
to
is
more than
234 inches,
collar.
turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which
side.
dis-
shown.
24,
34
same
straight line
inches, 34 inch
Square on line Z'l ^26, 1 inch to 25, for standing band of collar, and from 24
or any desired width. 34 to 22 is 34 inch allowed for spring.
Shape back of
20, the
Diagram
121
W OMEN.
241
242
EIGHT YEARS.
SEMI-FITTING COAT.
Diagram
122'
MEASURES.
Shoulder Height Front-.
inches
G'/z
32
inches
12
inches
Across Back
13
inches
Shoulder
Bust
285^ inches
Waist
263^2
Hip
Across Chest
Neck
Waist
....5}4
inches
inches
11 -H
inches
11
inches
4J4 inches
13^
Sleeve
to
6
4^2
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
to J
in First
At front hip
line,
from 18
to 19 is 1'^ inches.
Draw
front line
O 19
from 27
to 11.
To make garment
To
draft lay
Draw
line
down
collar,
from 28 through 23
O K.
Square over on
line
28
desired width.
Shape
collar as
shown.
24,
to 24.
]'4
to 23,
12,
same
inch.
any
20 to 21
Diagram 122
243
244
12J
MEASURES.
Bust
283^ inches
Waist
26J4 inches
6
6>4 4>4
32
inches
Neck Height
5>^ 11%
...12
inches
Across Back
13
inches
Shoulder
Hip
Across Chest
Neck
Sleeve
Waist
to
inches
inches
inches
inches
11
4%
13 j4
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
At waist
line,
9 to 8
At
E
is
1/2
is
inch;
to 35
is
3>4 inches; 35 to 34
is
>2 inch; 34 to 9
is
4 inches;
>4 inch.
shoulder, from
At bust
to
in First
O to T is
U is Iji
23/^
inches
to
is
2 inches.
I to
inches.
Take center of 34
hip measure ^4 inch to 12 and >4 inch to 37.
line,
35, square
down, where
line crosses
of 8
9, square up to 29 and down, where line crosses on hip measure
10 and yi inch to 11.
Take center
to
34 inch.
Draw back K
A M
to 38.
'/i
on
inch to
as
shown.
At
on hip, from 18
front,
Draw
line
to 19
is
D/o inches.
27Q 19 13.
3'/:
inches.
Square L down.
At shoulder, 32 to 28 is 2% inches, 28 to 30
22 4. Reshape armscye from 29 to 4.
To make garment
is
in
three
gore coat.
at points
28
30 L.
Diagram
123
245
24b
MEASURES.
6 inches
Back
6>2
inches
Waist ...5^ 11^ inches
Bust
ISyi inches
Waist
26J/2
inches
Hip
32
inches
Across Chest
12
inches
Across
Neck
13
inches
Sliuuldcr
Shoulder Height
-^'/i
Back
inches
11
4->4
13^
.Sleeve
to
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
in First
Allow on bust 2 inches more for seams than the natural bust measure.
to
Draw
is
line
1/2
inch.
from
K M
point 7 on waist
Draw
For
straight line
front,
Draw
draw
To make garment
121,
From
from 29
from
O 19
9
to
7 to 9
from 29 through 8
line
front line
to 10 full length.
line.
11.
to
is
to
1
is
Square
1 >2
inches.
7 to 8 is 1 inch.
12 over to 10.
From
18 tu 19
is
down
2'',
which gives
inches.
13.
pageXHO.
2')
inch.
lapel, follow
in
diagram
Diagram 124
247
248
125
MEASURES.
Half of Back
To Elbow
inches
5'/2
Full Length
15'j inches
22 >4 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
to
to
is
A B.
line
is
is
3/2
to
3/2
to
Point
is
to
to
O
X
to
to
is
to
is
Ys of bust,
is
to
13/^
is
144 inches.
is
y^ inch.
Draw
is 1
line
ZZjA inches,
full
length sleeve.
D
on
is
inch
line
less.
A ^B.
to B.
S and
iVI.
inches.
is
inch.
3^ the distance
to
H, over
to
3^
inches.
between
D L
3^ the distance of
is
Vi of bust
is
AJ
to
and D.
3^ of bust measure.
is
inch to
and
B.
J.
inch.
from
to
53/2
to A'
C) to
through
through
to
to
through
to
to
to
\'.
is
I
through
to E.
249
250
MEASURES.
Bust
ZSyi inches
Waist
26>4 inches
Hip
52
inches
.Across Chest
12
inches
.Across
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
to
6>i
8
Waist.. ..51/2
Back
Sleeve
>/^
inches
4>4 inches
II V4
inches
11
inches
4^
13
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
.\ to
line
A B.
Square down
is
'/>
is
Syi inches; L to
is 34 of bust, 7 inches;
to B
of bust measure less 2 inches.
Square over points
points E to K.
This completes the bo.x of the sleeve.
N
T
is
is
is
7 inches, J4
and B.
inch;
to F is 1 inch; and L to
the distance between
and B
!>
C
;
is 1
to
inch;
2y2 inches.
B O C N
through
to
F P K
and
to R.
is
251
252
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD
MEASURES.
6
Back
--.5^
Waist
11^
Bust
283^ inches
Waist
26>2 inches
Shoulder Height
6J/2
Hip
32
inches
Across Chest
12
inches
Across Back
Neck
13
inches
Shoulder
to
11
inches
inches
niches
4^4 inches
13^
Sleeve
4>'2
inches
inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given
coat, follow
in
same instruction
For collar
diagram 124, page 24^.
as given in diagram 129, page 25'/.
h'rom 29 to 25 is 1 inch.
Square over 2o, ly^ inches to 24 and 36. Square up 25, 13 inches,
length of sleeve, to 28.
28 to 30 and 33 is 1 inch.
Draw line connecting 36 to 30 and 24
Connect 36 with 7 and 24 with 7 for the under-gore of body.
to 33.
l-rom 25 to 17
Draw
.\llow
Draw
is
line
4^
from 22
part,
;
draw
15 to 14
line
from 201724.
inches.
234
32.
from 36 through 17 to
4>4 inches.
16.
line
is
from 36
Draw
inch.
from 24 through
line
line
is
Square over on
to 20,
22
to
oiif
Draw
from 21
For back
2}i inches.
from 2^
line
From 20
DinW
is
to 31, 5 inches.
up
to O.
15
17
to
is
inch taken
36
14
31
S.
1 1
is
inch.
8
7
8
K
O
S
10
12
31 15 1736
7 to 9
to 24.
to 36.
to
is
inch.
14
to 12.
The
shown
in the
dotted
line.
363033 24 to
7,
as
shown on the
side of
33 28 30
Diagram 127
253
254
EIGHT YEARS
A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN
HOW TO MAKE
Diagram 128
INSTRUCTIONS.
Lay pattern together
To
underarm
at
place the
Sy.i
to 2,
is
To make garment
To make
line
line
4 inches to
Collar
1.
is
16,
same distance
band.
Draw
straight line
At back from
from 16
15 to 11
to 9.
5 inches.
is
11 to 10
i.s
Shape
collar
from 16
For
on back 12
For shovel
collar
15 to
14
is
93/2
I?,
6 inches to
Shape from
inches.
13.
Shape
to 14.
as
shown.
coal.
DRAFT SLEEVE.
Diagram
i29
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw
line .\
sleeve.
all
!>.
9 to 6
to 9
is
is
i/^
2^4 inches,
given points.
8 to
is
the
underarm
underarm
coat.
is
is
lj4 iuclie.;.
the center of
A C.
255
s
<
PC
o
<
00
CM
s
<
256
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD
MEASURES.
8
4^
Syi ll}i
Bust
28y2 inches
inches
Waist
26y2 inches
6J/2
inches
Hip
32
inches
Neck Height
Across Chest
12
inches
Across Back
Xeck
13
inches
Shoulder
of Waist
inches
inches
11
4j4 inches
Sleeve
13^^ inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in diagram 124, page 242. This coat is cut without seams.
For double breasted and lay down collor, follow the same instructions as given in diagram
122, page 238.
Draw
from 12 to 32.
Reshape shoulder from 12
straight line
At back, draw
13
is
from 29
line
to
29
11
O.
thee center of 12
Square over 13 to
32.
11,
'4
inch.
32.
is
the center of
O 29.
-Square
over to
-54
inch.
TO.
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD
RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOUT SEAMS.
Diagram
131
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow same instructions as given in diagram 125, page 248. At undersleeve measure the distance from Q to X. Place Q on 12 and X on 29. Ease between Q X _^2 inch. .-\t back,
measure the distance from 29 to O, which is 7 inches. Place the 7 inches on point I to 7.
Square over 7 to 6, 2 inches. Draw line up from I to 6. 4 is the center of 6 I. Square
4 to 5, "/^ inch.
Shape from
.\t
5 to 6.
to 8, 2 inches.
P.
Square over
front,
Draw
straight line
from P
At bottom,
up
to
pletes sleeve.
to 8.
8.
2^
is
the center of 8
This sleeve
to 10, 3 inches.
is
inches.
is
to 11
Draw
line
on
inches
2, j4
point
P,
inch.
'4 inch.
from
to
is
)4 inch.
W 1086 101
11
to
W.
This com-
Diagram 130
Diagram
257
13I
258
I32
MEASURES.
INSTRUCTIONS.
Lay
17 to 9
is
.J4
Square
Draw
inch.
11
16 to 10
over to 6
is
inch.
7, 5 inches.
Draw
from 9 10
and 12 to 13
line
12 to 15
to 12.
is
From
5j/ inches.
The
9 to 11 is 6*4 inches.
12 to 14 is 1 inch.
distance from 6 to 3
Tliis distance
which
is lobl
Draw
line
Take
the center of 22
23, which is 19.
Square this point up to 18, 6 inches, same distance from
7 to 8 and 6 to 5.
Square down 19 to 20, ISyi inches, the same distance from 7 to 13
and 6 to 15, length of sleeve. 20 to 24 and 21 is 1 inch,
from 7
to 8.
6 to
5,
6 inches.
Diagram
132
259
260
HOOD
NO.
1,
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD.
DiAGRA
133
MEASURES.
Bust
28 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
E and B.
D and E to F and F
Draw
to
line
to
is
always
Place jacket back and front together as dotted line shows, and draft neck curve E to C; C to
is front of jacket or cape.
Now draft curve B through G to A, as shown; J4 inch all
Diagram
133
261
262
HOOD
NO.
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD.
2.
Diagram 134
MEASURES.
Bust
Top
of this hood
is
same
28 inches
as No.
From F
to P is 4 inches, and
respective sizes I to
Now
1,
with
from B
is
through
HOOD
to
inch.
e.'vce[)rion
I
is
Now
of
to
being
to A.
NO.
3,
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD.
Diagram i35
MEASURES.
Dust
28 inches
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow instructions as No.
to
2,
to
is
2 inches; J to
is -x^
incli
draft line
to
to line
K G A,
Diagram 134
No. 2
Diagram
I35
No. 3
263
265
-^^
INSTRUCTIONS.
Place front and back shoulder together,
At back from
Draw new
line
For sweep
at
to
is
F.
inch.
from
to B.
bottom
to B, pivet
on point E.
Diagram 136
267
268
INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw an
.At
.\ to K and .\ to C.
Take front and back of eoat pattern,
and back on line A to K allowni},'
inch from j to (1.
angle from
line
to
(.'
to
to C,
and make
(i to
.spring.
at
on
For sweep
front
lay
bottom from B
to
pivot on point A.
the
same
length.
to
I!
is
inch for
Diagram 137
269
270
INSIDE
Diagram 138
INSTRUCTIONS.
At the present time the fronts ait worked without canvas or hairclotii, to avoid the stiffness of
the coat.
Instead use camhric, as shown on the illustration. Cut the cambric the same
shape as the material.
12
to 13
5 to lo.
Stvv the outside and cambric separatel) then pi ess the both seams open, and baste the seam of
with one or more bastings as shown.
tiie coat with the seam of the cambric together,
Also baste the cambric around the shoulder, armhole, under the arm and down the front.
.
the lapel, make short .stitches through the inside of the cambric, catching the cloth withThen tape the break line, 11 12, being
out showing the stitches through on the right side.
very careful not to stretch the cloth, also from where the collar joins around the shape
lie careful not to
of iapel ease in the cloth from 17 to 12 and from 12 down to bottom,
stretch or ease in the cloth.
To work
F'.etween 9
We
line in
front.
HOW TO
At the underarm of coat from 3
line, 1
2.
Press on this
line as
perfectly
flat
tween 20
21.
6.
HOW TO MAKE
Cut the collar
COLLAR.
l.>
Diagram 138
271
272
INSTRUCTIONS.
A
garnu-iu
respect.
it
thoroughly,
point 1 of canvas take out a \ of -ys, inch, also at the points 13 and 8.
edges, cover them with a piece of tape and press thoroughly so as to
Now
Take out
bust, as
shown
less
the
lay Hat.
in cut.
inch is cor9 and 10 J/j inch each to obtain the required fullness. This
36 inch bust measure; if the bust is larger we have to take out more; if smaller.
at points
rect for
Now
Having joined
make seams
'
_.
than J/ inch.
the
edges,
to
tiatteii
and
prevent
to
the
No. 14 represents an extra piece of canvas, which is sewed as far down as point of dart to obtain more stiffness over the bust.
At the waist line cut canvas as shown in the diagram.
Make
On
a small dart
from
-1
5,
it
as
shown
is drawn, hold in, while pressing, to get the necesshadows at 6 and 7 in the diagram.
Now we
In
making the
left side
sewing on.
Between 2 and 3
When
right side,
11 to 12,
before.
everything
at the waist
is
I'lie
DlAGRj\Ml39
273
Alterations
276
DIAGRAM
Hoiv
to Alter:
move B
at the
inch from
to C.
FIGURE
Fault:
Cause
A.
The back
The back
part
is
A.
Allow
at the
shown
in
dotted
line.
Then
277
278
DIAGRAM
How
to
From
A down
to
Alter:
is
Reduce
to dotted line
inch taken
off.
and over
to
t>
Shape from F
C
is
to
B.
inch.
FIGURE
Fault
Cause
at
too long.
B.
lap.
to
279
03
<
o
<
280
DIAGRAM
How
line.
to
Reduce
to Alter:
is
Reshape from
the
same
lensjtli
BDE
as
from
',o
B and C
Cause
to D, say.
to F.
to E.
FIGURE
Fault
C.
C.
There
is
too
much back
lensrth at the
back of neck.
'_>
inch, as
shown
in
dotted
281
U
g
U
<
O
<
282
dl\(;ram
11
0:1.'
to .liter:
dotted
Reduce the
lo
B and C
lo
from
to
to
at Isottom
L and
and
inch
>4
the
from
The
Cause
The
to D, say, yi inch or
to
Reduce
Alter:
the
is
from the
Cause:
L and
to
D.
to G,
too short.
undersleeve from 3 to
has too
much
at the
down.
4,
the
same
1.
lo 2, say,
3^2
1.
and ^4 inch
sleeve head
FIGURE
fault
in
DIAGRAM D
How
more, as showr
to G.
FIGURE
fault:
line.
sleeve
from
sleeve
d.
sleeve head.
under-
283
!X0
284
DIAGRAM
Hoiv
to
Alter:
from C
Take the
to B, slightly
shaped up to A.
FIGURE
Fault
When
a coat
is
E.
too full in
tiie
E.
front at hottoni.
inch
more or
less
285
UJ
Oi
<
286
DIAGRAM
How
to Alter:
from
P>.
Shape down
to
to bust
front gore
full.
and take
ofT
-Kt
iii.e.
B add on
the shoulder
FIGURE
Fault:
F.
F.
from C
to
D, as dotted
line show:,.
287
B
a
u
be
288
DIAGRAM
Hoiv
to Alter:
From
A B
shape
at
down below
top of the side back gore and take off 34 mc\\ in this case.
I.
l^.ack
armliole too
The
distance
FIGURE
Fault:
G.
full.
G.
we take
oft'
from
to
K add
^89
O
3
IE
290
DIAGRAM
Ho-w
to
Alter:
more or
slightly
at the
FIGURE
I'aitlt
Cause:
When
The
H.
shaped to A, as dotted
at the side
line
shows.
H.
coat
is
WOM.i:N,
to
inch
291
292
DIAGRAM
Hoiv
to
Alter:
All(3\v at the
back from
to
1!
to F, as dotted
Cause:
When
The
a coat
coat
is
falls in
folds
to
hne shows.
down
and
FIGURE
I'tiiill:
J.
J.
center hack.
tiie
hack
fjf
nccl
-M incli.
293
b/)
294
INDEX
Page
IRODUCTIOK
PKEFACE. TO SECOND EDITION
Rol'oRTlONAL MEASUREMENTS
I'KOPOKTIONAL WIDTHS
I'Kl li'OKTK )NAL
LENGTHS
DlKEtTIOXS FOR TAKING MEASURES
JACKET LESSON
JACKET LESSON 2
TIGHT BACK, L(JOSE FRONT
TIGHT HACK. LOOSE FRONT, COMPLETE
TIGHT FITTING BACK, WITH TWO DARTS
TIGHT FITTING BACK, LOOSE FRONTS, FRENCH SEAMS
TIGHT FITTED lACKET FRENCH SEAMS
REGULAR COAT SLEEVE
HOW TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP
HOW TO MAKE RECiULAR SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER
BISHOP SLEEVE
SEMI-FITTINC; WITH UNDER GORE
SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SEAMS AT SIDES AND SAILOR COLLAR
L( JOSE SEM I-FITT NG COAT
SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR
SEVEN-EIGHTHS FITTING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE
HI PLESS COAT
LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT
M< )NTE CARLO C( )AT
TWO PIECE COAT
LOOSE BOX COAT
ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT
LOOSE C( AT, RA( LAN SLEEVE
HOW TO PLACE DARTS IN FRONT OF RAGLAN
HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A P.LOCK PATTERN, LOOSE COAT
HOW TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM BLOCK PATTERN
FOR DEEP ARMHOLE
COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT
SHAWL COLLAR WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN
SET ON COLLAR AND LAPEL SIIiiWN ON BLoiK PATTERN
TWO-PIECE KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN
LOOSE FRONT JACKET. THREE-EIGHTHS SEAMS ALLOWED
NINETEEN GORE CORSET JACKET
E T N J A C KT
RUSSIAN BLOUSE
TIGHT FITTING lACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT
LOOSE FRONT lACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST
LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST
TIGHT FITTING VEST
EMPIRE JACKET
NORFOLIv JACKET
NORFOLK TACKET
TO DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER
SFMI-FITTING COAT WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER
THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR
CHILD'S TURNED DOWN COLLAR
STANDING COLLAR
TURNED DOWN COLLAR
HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN
OPERA CLOAK
ULSTER WITH I50LMAN SLEEVE
FICHU NO. 3
FICHU NO. 4
IN
y
10
11
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
48
30
52
54
56
58
60
62
64
66
68
70
12
74
76
78
80
82
"
(J
DOLMAN
DOLMAN
DOLMAN
DOLMAN
NO.
NO.
NO.
NO.
:...
.-.
'.
(Continued)
2
3
98
100
102
104
106
106
10S
86
88
90
92
94
96
HOOD
HOOD
HOOD
84
KNEE LEGGINS
SHOE LEGGINS
.*.
lin
112
114
116
118
120
122
1 24
126
128
130
132
1.^4
136
138
140
142
144
144
146
1 46
295
ENDEX
Pt.
UIAGKA.M
8J
\i1
\'J,
\i*
Jj*
'5*
160
}6f
}6j
J6j
166
168
PA.XTALOON SKIRT
RC U L A R SKIRT
THREE GORE SKIRT
FIVE GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT
F1\E GORE SKIRT
SEVEN GORE SKIRT
NINE GORE SKI RT
ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE
ELEVEN (;oRE FLARE SKIRT
THIRTEEN Go RE PLEATED SKIRT
FIFTEEN t;oRE SKIRT
SAFETY RIDING SKIRT
;
HACK PART OF SKIRT
ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING DIFFERENT POSITIONS OF SAFETY RIDING HABITS
RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE, FRONT PART
RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE. BACK PART
DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT
RIDING BREECHES
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, CHILDREN'S
PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, MISSES & JUNIORS'
FI RST LESSf N
SECOND LESSON
EIGHT YEAR OLD REEFER
SEMI-FITTlisG COAT, EIGHT YEARS
SEMI-FITTING FRENCH SEAMS. EIGHT YEARS
EIGHT YEAR OLD BOX COAT
PLAIN COAT SLEEVE
BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS
EIGHT YEAR r)LD KIMONO SLEEVE .\ND COAT
HOW TO MAKE A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN
J'j
196
198
lIoliBLE SKIRT
DRAFT A SLEEVE
EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS
EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOI'T SEAMS
ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN
EIGHT YEARS
HOOD NO.
HOOD NO. 2. EIGHT YEARS
HOOD NO. f. EIGHT YEARS
ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING CHILDREN'S COLLARS AND CUFFS
ONE PIECE CIRCULAR C.\PE
CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART
HOW TO MAKE THE INSIDE FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT
HOW TO MAKE THE FRONTS OF A TKIHT FITTING JACKET
H( )W T( MAKE ALTERATIONS
FIC.URE A. DIAGRAM A
FIGURE B. DIAGRAM B.
FIGURE C, DIAGRAM C
FIGURE DI. DIAGRAM Dl
FIGURE D-2. DIAGR.NM D-2.
FIGITRE.E. DIAGRAM E
FIGURE F, DIAGRAM F
FIGURE G, DIAGRAM G
FIGURE H, DIAGRAM H
FIGURE J, DIAGRAM
1,
'.
JiS
]/2
\l*
1J6
178
ISO
182
184
188
J'"
]92
200
202
20j
206
208
210
212
214
216
220
222
224
226
228
230
232
234
235
236
238
240
242
244
246
248
250
2.52
2.i4
254
if*
256
258
260
262
262
264
266
268
270
272
274
276
278
280
282
282
284
286
288
2^0
292
;-V'*V
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
111
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