Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Standalone Trends
Prominent looks that
dominate the season, in
terms of print, silhouette,
colour and detail.
Themes
A culmination of fabrics,
value addition and
shapes which make up a
wholesome theme with a
variety of trends.
41
Antonio Berardi
A.F. Vandevorst
Acne Studios
Alexander Wang
Hunter Original
Fendi
Emporio Armani
Helmut Lang
Jason Wu
Coat Along
Fall has been struck by a wave of long lengths, the rendition of which, in winter coats, has emerged as one of the stronger
silhouette categories. Conceived as a solid separate and not a flinging outerwear, designers seek inspiration from varied
design elements: double-breasted and wrap coats making a strong case in point. While most versions skipped defining a
waist, opting to work with a dropped waist on coat dresses as a clear ode to power dressing, other styles, where the waist
was rather defined with thick waist belts, hit the notes on sublime femininity. Masculine lapels and crisp collars flanked by
chunky pockets and metallic closures suit the androgynous side of the trend.
Antonio Marras
Balmain
Tommy Hilfiger
Traveller
Utility fashion seems to have made a strong point with safari silhouettes pressing upon the inclusion of functional elements
in fashion. Straight- cut jackets, allovers and even hybrid tunics have been laden with huge pockets a la safari jackets.
Befitting the realms of not only travelling, the outerwear spreads it wings to possibilities of outdoor adventure- hiking,
hunting, skiing, etc.- as suggested by the clever execution of customised pockets on coats. The silhouettes derive inspiration
from the urbane idea of adventure and the palette of greys, military greens, ink blues and slate greys translate the story
rather well.
Altuzarra
Balenciaga
Barbara Bui
Daks
DKNY
Mark Fast
Givenchy
Osman
Tibi
Mara Hoffman
Richard Nicoll
Tommy Hilfiger
Knit Cape
Following Pre Falls mania of cape coats, designers have transcended to knits for constructing roomy throwovers with a
visibly cozy demeanour. While the ones in flat knits have come across as sweater kimonos-in some cases, printed and
in others, with thick cable knits-circular knits too make a promising appearance. Form- fitting pullovers with an attached
shoulder trail or ponchos delivered in blanket fabric ending in tassels, the circular knit styles appeal for their lighter structure
and contoured fit. Cardigans have also found a way with the trend as they have been constructed on the lines of long cape
coats- with sleeves and droopy shoulders.
Joseph
Alexander Wang
Belstaff
Dion Lee
Eudon Choi
Felder Felder
Michael Kors
Sister by Sibling
Fashion East
Fausto Puglisi
Roksanda Ilincic
Sweater Column
Sweater dress has all the qualities of a stellar, ready-to-wear, separate. Uncomplicated construction aside, what makes this
trend even more viable is its direct association with the much-accepted phenomenon of relaxed contours. As most versions
have kept the silhouette devoid of any fit, the silhouette mostly knocks on knits and chunky woollens for its slack structure.
Finished at a length generously below the knee, the athletic interpretations of the dress include familiar elements, whether
for cozy turtlenecks or exceedingly long sleeves. Designers who viewed the trend in light of dainty eveningwear gave in
to asymmetric and strappy necklines, additional feminine respite coming from either combinations of sheer and mohair or
polka dots.
Daks
Hybrid Skirts
Hybrid has been the mood of the season and as its application leaves no silhouette, it is most definite that the idea of fusion
is to be carried forth a season or two. Fall will see the advent of the deconstructed skirt, which takes elements from not
only lowers but, in an experimental streak, borrows elements from formal outerwear. The wrap slit skirt of spring has been
structured like languid culottes and draped trousers in some case and in others, as a trail on roomy shorts. More innovative
versions of the wrap skirt, where bondage closures circle the wrap along with a tied version, which bears resemblance with
the lower half of an overcoat, offer multiple possibilities of the trend.
47
48
Duro Olowu
Andrew Gn
Derek Lam
Emilia Wickstead
Akris
Ashish
Emilio de la Morena
Mother of Pearl
MSGM
Simone Rocha
Marc Jacobs
Marco de Vincenzo
Marni
Balloon
Traditional in its midi-length and chic in its relaxed bottom, the balloon dress is a silhouette that epitomises sophistication
with added comfort. While some designers constructed the garment in lightweight fabrics with cinching at the waist and
neck, others went for a structured exterior in silks and jacquards. Prints on calf length dresses can be stitched for casual
daytime purposes or floor length ones with an exaggerated bottom can be adopted for a dramatic collection.
Christopher Kane
Delicate Waves
This silhouette detail takes shape in various fall collections either to explore the ethereal world or the cutting edge futuristic
one. Fabrics were the differential factor in the trend with most silhouettes being put together in filmy sheer ones net,
chiffon, organza and others constructed in velvet and knit to develop a stiffer appeal. This trend can be achieved through
careful layering of the waves on top of each other or by going for random abstract versions in curvy lines. Neck lapels,
hemlines and shoulders are perfect for boasting this detail on various separates.
49
50
Felder Felder
Aquilano.Rimondi
Chanel
Donna Karan
Badgley Mischka
Bibhu Mohapatra
Josie Natori
Les Copains
Tex Saverio
Emilio Pucci
Marco de Vincenzo
MSGM
Laser Cut
Reserving a spot in the back row, laser cut, although not immediately, but definitely breathed fresh air into collections.
Something out of a psychology laboratory, designers created their own versions of the Rorschach test, interpreting it in
whatever they perceived and the next person conceiving it just as differently. From all over cutouts on dresses, revealing a
layered fabric within to peek-a-boo cutouts at random revealing nothing but skin, fabrics used varied from suede to leather
to continuous appearances by felt.
Alberta Ferretti
Metallic Jacquard
Engaging in novel textures to replicate dark florals and emulsion prints from last season, designers used various methods
to convey their stories through their clothes. The juxtaposition between the gloomy shades and the luxe brought in by the
metallic sheen created a dark surreal atmosphere. A range of options were provided, from lurex woven jacquard to lurex
thread embroidery to embossed fabric printed with metallic foil. Shades of silver, gold, copper, midnight blue and rust red
were seen dominating the runways, with brighter hues staying on the backburner.
51
Blumarine
Marco de Vincenzo
Meadham Kirchhoff
Edun
Lacoste
Michael Kors
Todd Lyn
Trussardi
Marc Jacobs
Narciso Rodriguez
Philosophy
Winter Shine
Evening wear gets its fair share as glamour is spelled not only through fancy silhouettes but through fabrics with an intrinsic
celestial shine. Whether for the pared down holographic tulle skirt, worn under a grey knit sweater or peasant shirt dress
constructed in beaded glass nylon, designers are quick to include a host of silhouettes to embrace the trend. Lurex yarn has
been knitted and woven for a natural shine in garments; for glamorous sporty separates, chenille yarns have been combined
with lurex to produce shiny knits, alternatively it has been woven with crepe for a pleated skirt. While lame has been
carried forward from last season, lacquered polyester, although stiff, has been used successfully on dropped waist allovers
and shirts.
Jonathan Saunders
Colour
Presented through different geometric shapes and angles, this colour story does not harp on bright colours, rather includes
subdued shades generally affiliated with winter. Camel browns, taupes, sand dusts, beiges dominate this palette along with
glacier and steel greys, which are beautifully synchronised with hints of burgundy and orange. The darker tones are laid onto
the lighter hues as base and the sharp cuts create a subtle futuristic illusion which looks almost three dimensional, whether
on the belted coat dresses or the knit column dresses or the oversized sweaters.
54
Prudent Dames
The Conservatives
Victorian Idealism
Lawmakers
2
3
4
5
3
3
4
4
6
1 Emporio Armani
2 Dolce & Gabbana
3 Alexander McQueen
4 Simone Rocha
5
1 Burberry Prorsum
2 Prada
3 Honor
4 Givenchy
5 Preen by Thornton
Bregazzi
6 Michael Kors
1 Wes Gordon
2 Ann Demulemeester
3 Antonio Marras
4 Alexis Mabille
5 Aganovich
55
56
57
Charmed Prints
A Fiery Tale
For fall, fairy tales have been churned with a hint of melancholia
and a particularly dark demeanor, which feeds on luminescence of
fabrics and captivatingly intricate embroideries. As the classic baby
doll silhouette gets tweaked to fit the wardrobe of this modern day
princess, delicate laces get replaced by reflective satins and glass
nylons. In billowy capes that leave little rooms for sleeves, motifs that
narrate a familiar story from the early days and hoods, which induce
bouts of mystery, designers have us believe not every Red Riding
Hood is as innocent as she may seem.
Come Alive
Cape-ing Around
Elaborate Simplicity
1 Alexander McQueen
2 Dolce & Gabbana
3 Les Copains
4 Valentino
5 Alexander McQueen
6 Valentino
7 Valentino
8 Alexander McQueen
7
3
1
1 Marc by Marc Jacobs
2 Valentino
3 Dolce & Gabbana
4 Honor ggg
5 Erdem
6 Duro Olowu
2
2
58
Tunes of Folklore
Culture Fest
Native Trivia
Influences from every corner of the world- from the decorative patterns of Far
East to the indulgent colours of Native America to delicate blooms of the orient
culture- came together at the fall collections backed by a nostalgic folkloric
tune and a genuine admiration for home grown techniques. Envisioned in an
evoking, traditional palette and through a range of rich embroideries- appliqu,
bead and metal work, cord embroidery et al- designers laid out, on silhouettes,
vibrant faces of many a culture. The trend spectacularly succeeded in consuming
fabrics beyond the obvious chiffons and georgettes as intricate patterns took
a firmer shape on not only lightweight knits but chunky sweaters as well.
Oriental Exotica
To The East
2
3
1 J. Mendel
2 Band Of Outsiders
3 Mara Hoffman
4 Anna Sui
5 Alexander Wang
6 Emilio Pucci
2
1 Anna Sui
2 Diane Von Furstenberg
3 Antonio Marras
4 Blumarine
5 Tommy Hilfiger
6 Mother of Pearl
6
3
1 Mara Hoffman
2 Mara Hoffman
3 The Row
4 Clover Canyon
5 Meadham Kirchhoff
1 Mara Hoffman
2 Mary Katrantzou
3 Louis Vuitton
4 Burberry Prorsum
5 Meadham Kirchhoff
6 Stella Jean
5
4
59
Dark Alley
Fabric
The murky mysteries that lie dormant in the shadows of dark allies
stir up this theme to awaken the rebel inside all of us Creatures
of the dark. The silhouettes are oversized yet doused with power,
the details achieve intricacy and the colour story revolves around
one standalone shade sinister black.
Silhouettes
Hooded capes, structured
coats with exaggerated
standing collars, long
languid tops swaying
along and buffed up
jackets define the key
separates.
1 Felder Felder
2 Vera Wang
3 Christopher Kane
4 Carolina Herrera
5 Cushnie Et Ochs
2
3
1
4
1 Emilia Wickstead
2 Zero + Maria Cornejo
3 Zero + Maria Cornejo
Details
1
2
1
1 Bottega Veneta
2 Anna Sui
3 Christian Dior
4 Giles
5 Fendi
61
62
Fashion Laboratory
Trim Ahead
Embellishments alternate
between steam punkish
metal trims, ethereal stones
and semi- stitched blocks of
panels. Interlaced leather strip
with ribbed knits provides an
innovative insight for material
value-addition.
Towering
Necks
Turtlenecks on
masculine jackets
add an androgynous
dimension to the
theme. Zipped or
buttoned way above
the neck, the rigidity of
its contour is restored
through patent leather,
coated fleece and furlined flannel.
Structural Leap
1 Francesco
Scognamiglio
2 J. Mendel
Future Imprint
1 Preen by
Thornton Bregazzi
2 Bibhu Mohapatra
Shoulder Alert
1 J.W. Anderson
2 Just Cavalli
3 Issey Miyake
4 David Koma
4
3
1 Alexander Wang
2 Bibhu Mohapatra
3 Akris
4 Gabriele Colangelo
Coated Shine
Technical Tryst
1 Alexander Wang
2 Balenciaga
1
4
1
1
1 Ports 1961
2 Balenciaga
3 Alexander Wang
1 Emilio de
la Morena
2 Tods
63
64
Menswear Fabric
Presenting a series of classics, designers constructed womenswear,
patterned in familiar menswear fabrics. Traditional pinstripes, plaid,
Prince of Wales checks were seen running in formals on a gamut of
separates, from the obvious exploitation on big coats and trousers to
skirts, deconstructed tunic dresses and waistcoats. Leaping forth, a
few collections detoured from the usual by creating formalwear with
generous amounts of glitter, printed sheen and abstract patterns to
probe into the glamorous territory of work-wear, that is, if it ever
existed in the first place.
Classic
1 Les Copains
2 Preen by Thornton
Bregazzi
3 Emporio Armani
4 Paul Smith
5 Versace
Jazzy
3
2
4
1 Giorgio Armani
2 Emporio Armani
3 Tibi
4 Adam Lippes
3
Contemporary
3
4
1
2
1
1 Francesco Scognamiglio
2 Stella Jean
3 Akris
4 J.W. Anderson
5 Emporio Armani
65
Work on Sheer
Opulence
Laced Up
1 Roberto Cavalli
2 Temperley London
3 Luisa Beccaria
4 Emilia Wickstead
5 Luisa Beccaria
6 Blumarine
6
3
8
1
2
1 Jonathan Saunders
2 House of Holland
3 Alexander McQueen
4 Marios Schwab
5 Topshop Unique
6 Jason Wu
7 Antonio Marras
8 Alexis Mabille
67
Warrior Princess
Detail Shots
Embellishment
Metal Cage
Grid
1 Valentino
2 Chlo
3 Emilio Pucci
4 Valentino
3
2
3
4
4
1 Blumarine
2 Gucci
3 Versace
4 David Koma
1 Mary Katrantzou
2 Gucci
3 Balmain
4 Tory Burch
1 Simone Rocha
2 David Koma
3 Herv Lger by
Max Azria
4 Daks
Prints
Urban Jungle
Broken Forms
Out of Order
1 Fausto Puglisi
2 Roksanda Ilincic
Tonal Tactics
1 Matthew Williamson
2 Roberto Cavalli
3 Tracy Reese
4 Prada
Organic Psychedelia
2
4
3
1
4
5
1 Preen by
Thornton Bregazzi
2 Bibhu Mohapatra
3 Les Copains
4 Saloni
1 Bibhu Mohapatra
2 Antonio Marras
1
4
1 Jenni Kayne
2 Duro Olowu
3 Peter Pilotto
4 Fashion East
5 Stella Jean