Instruction Manual for 9018

Quick Hoops High Tunnel Bender

Copyright 2014 Johnnys Selected Seeds. All rights reserved.
955 Benton Ave., Winslow, ME 04901 Phone: 1-877-564-6697 Fax: 1-800-738-6314
Email: service@johnnyseeds.com Web Site: Johnnyseeds.com

Overview:
Congratulations on your purchase of the Quick Hoops High Tunnel Bender! You can now create your
own hoophouse at a much lower cost than with a pre-fabricated kit. You will be able to extend your growing
season and increase both crop quality and yield by protecting your crops from wind, rain, hail, insects, and
disease pressure. The advantages to protected cropping are numerous and you are on your way to more
profitable crop production!

April2012,CaterpillarTunneltrialat
BroadturnFarm,Scarborough,ME

This manual has two main parts: Aside from showing you
how to bend hoops to create high tunnel bows with the Quick
Hoops High Tunnel Bender, we outline how to build your
own high tunnel two different ways. We now illustrate how to
build either a walk-in style caterpillar tunnel or how to build a
more traditional style of high tunnel with end walls and roll-up
sides. While the bender is not in any way limited any style of
house, these are the styles that we chose to build and trial,
because we see them as increasingly popular options for
growers who would like to expand their protected acreage in
the most efficient manner, while at the same time, minimizing
their investment to do so.

1-3/8 Top Rail

1-3/8 top rail for chain link fence is the recommended

material that this bender has been designed to bend.
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Construction Options:
There are many different options you can choose when building your tunnel. You must decide which of these
options suit your immediate needs and choose accordingly. Here are some of the major considerations:
Covering Designs - We provide instruction on two common methods of covering your tunnel:

Caterpillar

Traditional

Caterpillar Style is the cheapest option. This is typically a three-season covering that is designed to
allow the grower to add incremental acreage of protection at the lowest possible cost. This is great for
beginning growers, established growers who want more reliable crops without the expense of a larger
house, and protected cropping for those lower cash crops that could use the help of a hoophouse, but
might be a long time providing an equal return for the investment. Caterpillars are also somewhat
moveable, as the covering process is not as extensive, which is great for field rotation.

Traditional Style - These are usually fixed structures with end walls and roll-up sides for easier
venting. They serve as a great four season house option that is comparably lower priced than larger
structures. These are also are great for use as a seedling house.

Ground Posts (i.e.: Tunnel Height) - Ground posts are made from 1-5/8 chain link fence post material, which
is commonly available in 6 or 8 ft. lengths. You can make ground posts by cutting either of these sizes in half
and pre-drilling.

March2013,atJohnny'sResearchFarm,Albion,ME
The tunnel on the left was built with 3 ft. ground posts. The tunnel on the right, with 4 ft. ground posts.
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Ground Posts (continued)

6 ft. fence posts are the cheapest option. They

may be cut in half to produce 3 ft. ground posts
(with 2 ft. in the ground and 1 ft. exposed), which
results in a 7 ft. high tunnel.

8 ft. fence posts may be cut in half to produce 4

ft. ground posts (with 2 ft. in the ground and 2 ft.
exposed), which results in an 8- ft. high
tunnel. The reason you gain an extra 6 on top
of the obvious extra foot is because you are only
inserting the bows 6 into the taller posts, as
opposed to 12 into the shorter ones. They cost
a little more and require some extra drilling, but
the resulting extra elbow room for people and
crops and overall interior volume increase is
very advantageous. It not only improves the
tunnels thermal performance by slowing its
overnight temperature drop, but also allows the
use of a small tractor inside the tunnel, and
allows trellising three rows of vine crops as
opposed to two. Please note, you will need wide
plastic, which is a little more expensive.

Other Options

Purlins for Trellising These tunnels, since

they are made of steel,
are strong enough to
support the weight of
vine crops such as
tomatoes and
cucumbers. After some
extensive trialing, we
have come up with a
way to construct these
purlins that does not
cause the structure to
catch water or snow.

Seedling Benches We have also designed

some convenient foldaway seedling benches
that can mount on the
inside of the tunnel.
These benches are
very useful as they can
be used to grow seedlings, support trays of
microgreens, and also
be used to cure fall
storage crops such as
alliums and squashes.

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Materials: This Excel spreadsheet calculator has been developed to allow you to custom design a tunnel meet your
own operational and financial needs. It may be downloaded from the product page for the 9018 Quick Hoops High
Tunnel Bender on our website. For convenience, all part numbers listed on it link to product pages of their own on our
site as well as other sources. Simply input the values in the different option boxes on the upper left and the spreadsheet
will automatically tell you how many of each component you will need, suggest where to find them, and give you an
estimated cost. It will even give you a total cost and cost per square foot.

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Site selection:
We recommend taking a look at High Tunnels - Using Low-Cost Technology to Increase Yields,
Improve Quality and Extend the Season, a 74 page reference guide, by By Ted Blomgren and
Tracy Frisch and distributed by the University of Vermont Center for Sustainable Agriculture.
http://www.uvm.edu/~susagctr/Documents/HighTunnels.pdf
You can purchase written copies or download free ones from this link. We found this to be a
tremendous resource for our trial work. It has a section dedicated specifically to site selection for
your high tunnel.

Contents:

Curved bender

Lever bar (for finishing the bend)

Two 1/4" x 5" lag screws for mounting to wood

surfaces and two 1/4" x 6" carriage bolts, nuts,
and fender washers for mounting to metal or
wooden surfaces

Detailed instructions

LLeevveerrBBaarr

BBeennddeerr

Mounting:

The Quick Hoops High Tunnel Bender may be mounted to any solid surface, such as a
workbench, a picnic table, hay wagon, etc. It may be lag-screwed or thru-bolted into place. 5/16
mounting holes are provided on the bender and the screws, bolts, etc. are to mount it are also
included. By securing the bender in a fixed position, and pulling the tubing around the bender, the
operator can maintain precise control of the tubing being bent.
Wherever it is mounted, it is important to have both enough room to accommodate the infeed and
outfeed of pipe, as well as some type of support at the outfeed end about above the mounting
surface. This will prevent corkscrewing and ensure that the hoophouse bows created are in a
single plane. This can be accomplished with 1 x 4 slats (actually thick), 3/4 plywood (shown
above), or some other similar material.

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Bending the pipes:

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1.

After determining how many bows your high

tunnel will have, set aside twice that many
pipes to be bent.

2.

Mark these pipes with spray paint or

permanent marker on one end so that half are
marked on the male or swaged end and half
on the female end.

3.

Insert the unmarked end of a pipe into the

holding strap at the end of the bender as
shown. If this is the swaged end, insert just
past the swage to prevent canting or kinking
that portion of the pipe.

4.

With a smooth motion, pull back as if on a long

oar (do not push), and bend the pipe all the
way around the bender until the pipe just
touches the end of the bender closest to you.
Stop. Do not bend past the end, or the arc you
create will not be smooth.

5.

Release tension until the pipe is loose in the

holding strap, and move it through the holding
strap about half the length of the bender itself.

6.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until about three feet of

unbent pipe remain beyond the closest end of
the bender or, if bending becomes too difficult.

7.

Depending on the orientation of the pipe, insert

the lever bar into the female end or over the
swaged end of the unbent end of the pipe. This
effectively makes the pipe longer and will
instantly give you more leverage for bending
the rest of the pipe.

8.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the point where the

lever bar meets the pipe is even with the
closest end of the bender. Pull back and bend
only half way around the bender. This will leave
a straight portion that will easily slide into the
ground post later on.

9.

Repeat for all other unbent pipes, always

inserting the unmarked end of the pipe into the
bender holding strap first.

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Assembling the bows:

1. Find a flat surface on which to lay two

bent hoops. This could be the ground, a
hay wagon, greenhouse table, etc. We
happened to use a utility trailer on the job
site shown above.
2. Insert the unmarked swaged end of one
bent pipe into the unmarked female end of
the other.
3. About 1 from the end of the outer female
end, secure with two #10 x self-drilling
tek screws. Remember to always keep
screw heads facing away from where
plastic will eventually be.
4. The bow is now complete. You will notice
that the bow is actually 13-15 ft. wide.
That is perfect, because having preloaded stress on the bow when you
compress it into 12 ft. spaced ground
posts will make the structure stronger.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the rest of
the pre-bent hoops.

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Creating ground posts from fence posts:

Ground posts are made from 1-5/8 chain link fence "line post" material, which is commonly available in 6 or 8
ft. lengths. You can make ground posts by cutting either of these sizes in half and pre-drilling. You now have a
choice to make what size do you want?

6 ft. fence posts are the cheapest option. They may be cut in half to produce 3 ft. ground posts (with 2
ft. in the ground and 1 ft. exposed), which results in a 7 ft. high tunnel.

8 ft. fence posts may be cut in half to produce 4 ft. ground posts (with 2 ft. in the ground and 2 ft.
exposed), which results in an 8- ft. high tunnel. The reason you gain an extra 6 on top of the obvious
extra foot is because you are only inserting the bows 6 into the taller posts, as opposed to 12 into the
shorter ones. They cost a little more, and require some extra drilling, but the resulting extra elbow room
for people and crops and overall interior volume increase is very advantageous. It not only improves the
tunnels thermal performance by slowing its overnight temperature drop, but also allows the use of a
small tractor inside the tunnel, and allows trellising three rows of vine crops as opposed to two. Please
note, you will need wide plastic, which is a little more expensive.

Procedure:
1. Determine the length
and bow spacing you
would like your tunnel
to have and plug those
values into our
spreadsheet
calculator. Then
choose whether you
would like short or tall
ground posts. The
calculator will tell you
how many pieces and
what size of line post to
buy.
2. Cut them all in half with
a band saw,
reciprocating saw, or
hack saw (if you're not
doing too many) to
create two vertical
ground posts from each
line post.
3. Pre-drill each per the
diagram. Drill all the
way through both
sides. De-burr the cut
end and the pre-drilled
holes of each ground
post to remove any
sharp edges.
4. Make a mark 24 in
from the bottom end as
a guide for insertion
into the ground.
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Designing your structure:

Use the following diagram to help determine the size, spacing, and layout of your structure. For those that are
building a caterpillar tunnel, the red and green lines indicate individual pieces of lacing.

C3
C4

A(4)

B(4)

Notes:
(1) Determinethedesired
overalllengthoftunnel.
Inthisexample,our
tunnelis32ft.long.

(2) Pickadistancebetween
bowsthatwilldivide
intothatnumber.We
chose4ft.between
bowsbecausewe
wantedtobuilda
strongtunnel.This
couldbeascloseoras
far(withinreason)as
youwant.

32ft.(1)

(3) Thewidthofthetunnel
willbe12ft.

(4) DistancesAandBmust
beequalforthetunnel
tosquaredoffandbea
truerectangularshape.

4ft.(2)
C1
C2

12ft.(3)

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Hints on setting the corner ground posts:

Use the following diagrams to help you set the corner posts in a perfect rectangle.

4.Laythenotchedend
ofthegaugeatthat

measurementspot.

6.Adjusttheunnotched
endofthegaugetothat
measurementspot.

3.Measureoutfrom

C2thedesired
tunnellength.

5.Measureoutfrom
C1thedesired
tunnellength.

C2

1.Setthefirst
cornerpostC1.

C1

A>B
Tunnelis
crooked.

Starthere.

2.Usingthegauge,setthe
secondcornerpostC2.

C1
C2
7.TakemeasurementsAandBabove.

12ft.

8.Adjustthegaugetotheright
orleftuntilAandBareequal.

9.SetcornerpostsC3andC4.

C3

C4

Tunnelforms
aperfect
rectangle.

C2

A=B
Tunnelis
squaredoff.

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C1

10

C2

C1

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Site preparation and setting the ground posts:

1. Prepare the footprint of the tunnel as if you would open soil in a field. Do as much of the tilling, plowing,
mulch-laying, etc. before the tunnel is erected, to avoid having to resort to smaller equipment to
accomplish these tasks later.
2. Create a gauge for setting posts by using one 2 x 4 x 12 piece of wood, and simply cutting a small
notch in one end. This will be the gauge between ground posts for a single bow.
3. Weed Barrier - An option to consider at this point is weed barrier along the edges of the tunnel. This is
traditionally an area where weed control is difficult and some fabric that suppresses weeds can be very
effective here. If you choose this option, proceed to step 5.

1
2

4. If you choose to forgo weed barrier, proceed as follows: Set the four corner ground posts first
(refer to the diagram, on page 10 for this part of the procedure).
a. Place the first corner post (#1 pictured above) in the desired location with the pre-drilled hole closest
to the top. Insert the mushroom-shaped ground post driver in the top and drive it in about 2 ft. with a
sledge-hammer until the mark is at the soil surface.
b. Place the notched end of the 12 ft. gauge you made in Step 2 against post 1. Swing the opposite end
the gauge to where you would like post 2 to be. Holding the new ground post against the un-notched
end, drive it in place.
c. Using a long tape, measure to where the opposite end of the tunnel will be. Mark approximately
where you expect to put post 3. In our case, this was 40 ft.
d. Lay the notched end of the gauge down at that spot. Lay the opposite end where your think post 4
will be. Measure from post 1 to the notch in the 12 ft gauge. Then measure from post 2 to the unnotched end of the gauge. These measurements should be the same for the tunnel to be square and
true. Adjust the gauge until they are.
e. Set corner posts 3 and 4.
f.

Run the long tape from corner post 1 to corner post 4. Secure one end to post 1. Pull it tight and
secure the other end to post 4. Secure with duct tape, clamps, or something similar. This will serve
as a gauge as well as a straight line for setting the other posts.

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g. Using the long tape measure as a guide, set the rest of the posts for this side of the tunnel.

JSS#9482
GroundPostDriver

h. Repeat steps 4.f. and g. for the other side of the tunnel.
i.

Inspect the orientation of ground posts and adjust as necessary: Pre-drilled lacing bolt holes
(near the ground) should be facing outward from the tunnel to minimize adjustment later on. On taller
ground posts, bolt holes for the bolts that hold the bows in place (near the top of the ground posts)
should be in line with the length of the tunnel. With a pipe wrench or similar tool, rotate any ground
posts as needed so that they are correctly oriented.

j.

The ground posts are now set and ready for bows.

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5. If you do choose to use weed

barrier, proceed as follows:
a. Perform steps 4.a. through e.
b. If you have a pair of D-handle
garden forks or spades, you can
quickly set up your weed barrier
on a makeshift spool such as
this. This makes handling and
cutting to length very easy. A
piece of top-rail is used as the
spindle. Position at one end of
the tunnel location and offset, so
that it faces down the side of
what will eventually be the
tunnel. Pull the weed barrier off
the roll and walk with it down the
side of the plot until you reach
the opposite end. Cut it to
length, leaving about 1 ft. of
overlap on each end. Cutting is
most cleanly and easily done
with a utility knife with the weed
barrier laying against the
ground, by drawing the knife's
razor blade through it and the
top of the soil at the same time.
c. Fold the 4 ft. wide weed barrier
in half, making it 2 ft. wide.
Position so that the folded edge
faces the inside of the tunnel.
d. Make a 2" cut centered between
the sides of the fabric that is
about 1 ft. in from one cut end.
Make just a single cut in line with
the length of the fabric. Slip this
end of the double-layered fabric
over the end post near it.
With only a single slit, the
fabric will be somewhat snug
against the post, which helps
prevent weeds from growing
up through the hole.
9739 Weed Barrier. 4' x 50'
9724 Weed Barrier. 4' x 250'
A note about weed barrier - Keep
the top of the weed barrier fabric
free of soil as best you can. If soil is
allowed to collect on it, weeds will
likely germinate in that soil and root
through the weed barrier, which will
make them difficult to kill and
remove by physical means.
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e. Go to the opposite end of the

fabric, pull it somewhat taught,
and make a similar cut that is
even with the corner ground
post at that end. Slip it over the
ground post and smooth out
the weed barrier along the
length of the tunnel.
f.

Secure the edges of the weed

barrier to the ground with fabric
staples along its edges. A
hammer is sometimes helpful
in difficult soils.
9723 Fabric Staples. Box of 500.

g. Repeat steps 5.b through f. for

the opposite side of the tunnel.
h. Run a long tape measure down
the center of one of the pieces
of weed barrier fabric and
secure to the corner posts with
clamps, etc.
i.

Make 2" slits with a razor knife

for the rest of the ground posts
on that side of the tunnel. For
example, make a cut every 4 ft.
if your tunnel will have 4 ft. bow
spacing.

j.

Drive ground posts in each of

the slits.

k. Repeat 5.h. through k. for the

opposite side of the tunnel.
l.

For caterpillar tunnels, predrilled lacing bolt holes should

be facing outward from the
tunnel to minimize adjustment
later on. For caterpillars on
long ground posts, pre-install Jbolts in the lower holes before
driving them in. For traditionally
covered tunnels, bolt holes for
the bolts that hold the bows in
place should be parallel to the
length of the tunnel. With a
pipe wrench or similar tool,
rotate any ground posts as
needed so that the pre-drilled
lacing bolt holes (for caterpillar
tunnels only) are perpendicular
to the length of the tunnel
(facing out and in).

m. The ground posts are now set.

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Framing the Tunnel:

1. Short Ground Post Procedure:
a. Make a mark on each of the bows
about 13 from the end. This will
be used as a guide for insertion
into the ground posts.
b. Transport the first end wall bow
to the furthest corner posts and
insert to the marks made above.
c. Repeat for the rest of the bows,
keeping all the bows oriented
the same with the swaged ends
of each bow on the same side of
the tunnel. This will make
alignment of the ridge pole much
easier.
9542 Cross-connectors. Pkg. of 2.

d. Loosely attach the ridge pole. The procedure following discusses installation with crossconnectors. You may also thru-bolt the ridge pole to the bows if desired.
i. Loosen the nuts on all the cross-connectors as much as possible, without taking them
completely off. Slip one over the top center of each bow.
ii. Slide a section of 1-3/8 top rail through the last two (or three) cross-connectors on one end
of the tunnel with the female end pointing out and flush with the outside end of the first bow's
cross-connector.
iii. Repeat c above with swaged ends fitting into the next pipes female end, until they are run
the entire length of the tunnel.
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iv. Similar to the bow construction,

somewhere around the middle of the
swaged area of each pipe (about 3 from
the end of the outer female end), secure
through both pipes with a self-drilling tek
screw. Repeat for all points where the
ridge pole sections come together.
v. At this point, the ridge pole is solid and
part will be extending out one end of the
tunnel.
e. Stand back and view the structure critically
from the sides and very ends. Adjust the bows
up or down within the ground posts until the
structure is symmetrical and straight to the
eye. Ensure that you can still see the metal of
the bows through the pre-drilled holes in the
ground posts.
f.

Using the pre-drilled holes in the ground posts

as a guide, with a 5/16" drill bit, drill through
the inserted portion of each bow.

g. Bolt bows to the ground posts:

i. For caterpillar tunnels - Select a J-bolt
and thread its included 5/16 nut all the
way on, leaving about of thread
showing on the J end of the bolt. Add a
lock washer and insert through the 5/16
hole on the end of the half bow. Add a
lock washer and nut on the opposite side
and tighten, leaving the tail of the J
pointing down. Repeat for the rest of the
ground posts.
ii. For traditional coverings - Lay a 1" x 8" x
16' piece of ledger board up against the
outside of edge the ground posts; this will
serves as the baseboard. Note: This
material is a suggestion only. Other
materials are available that may offer
better rot resistance, etc. It really is just a
matter of personal preference and
convenience. Using the pre-drilled holes
in the ground posts and bows as a guide,
drill through the baseboard with a 5/16"
drill bit. Select a J-bolt and thread its
included 5/16 nut all the way on. Add a
flat washer and insert through the 5/16
hole on the end of the half bow. Add a
lock washer and nut on the opposite side
and tighten, leaving the tail of the J
pointing down. Repeat down both sides
of the tunnel. Where individual pieces of
board butt together, join with a small
piece of scrap that overlaps the butt joint
and secure with wood screws.
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h. Tightening the crossconnectors:

i. Once again stand back and
view the structure critically
from the ends.
ii. Adjust the cross-connectors
from side to side until the
ridge pole runs straight down
the length of the tunnel.
iii. Run the long tape measure
the length of the tunnel on top
of the center of the bows.
iv. Tighten cross-connector at
the end wall where you
started. Add a tek screw
through the cross-connector
into the ridge pole to prevent
it from pulling out (see photo
below left).
v. Secure the end of the tape
measure to the crossconnector at that end with a
clamp. Allow the weight of the
tape to hold it taught on the
opposite end.
vi. Move to the next bow and
using the tape measure as
your guide, adjust the bow
along the ridge pole so that it
is exactly the same distance
from the end wall bow as the
spacing of the ground posts
4 ft. for us. Tighten the crossconnector.
vii. Repeat until all crossconnectors have been
tightened.
viii. Add a tek screw to other end
wall bow as you did in step
1.i.iv. above.
i.

Cut off any excess ridge pole

protruding beyond the end of the
end wall bow with a hacksaw or
reciprocating saw.

j.

Install duct tape over the ends of

the ridge pole and wrap the tops
of each ground post to prevent
plastic from getting torn on any
metal burrs that may be present.

k. Framing is complete!
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2. Long Ground Post Procedure:

a. Make a mark on each of the bows
about 6 from the end. This will be
used as a guide for insertion into the
ground posts.
b. Clamp large vise grips or spring
clamps onto each side of the bow just
above the mark to keep it from slipping
into the ground post.
c. Transport the first end wall bow to the
furthest corner posts and insert to the
marks made in step 2.a. above.
d. Using the upper pre-drilled holes in the
ground posts as a guide, with a 1/4"
drill bit, drill through the inserted
portion of each side of the bow. These
should be aligned such that they are in
line with the length of the tunnel.
e. Secure the bow to the ground post
with 1/4"-20 x 2" hex bolts and 1/4"
nylock nuts.
f.

Repeat steps 2.a. through f. for the

rest of the bows.

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g. Loosely attach the ridge pole.

One of the advantages of longer
ground posts is that it raises the
center of peak of the tunnel to 81/2 ft. tall. This conveniently
allows access with a pickup or
small tractor. We made use of
that benefit when putting the
ridge pole on this 200 ft.
caterpillar tunnel, which made
very fast work of this job.
The following procedure
discusses installation with crossconnectors. You may also thrubolt the ridge pole to the bows if
desired.
i. Loosen the nuts on the
cross-connectors as much
as possible, without taking
them completely off.
ii. Slip one over the top center
of each bow as shown.
iii. Slide a section of 1-3/8 top
rail through the last two (or
three) cross-connectors on
one end of the tunnel with
the female end pointing out.
iv. Repeat 2.g.iii. above down
the tunnel with the swaged
male ends of each pipe
fitting into the next pipes
female end, until they have
been installed in the entire
length of the tunnel.
v. Similar to the bow
construction, somewhere
around the middle of the
swaged area of each pipe
(about 3 from the end of the
outer female end), secure
through both pipes with a
self-drilling tek screw.
Repeat for all points where
the ridge pole sections come
together.
vi. At this point, the ridge pole
is solid and part will be
extending out one end of the
tunnel as shown to the right.

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vii. Stand back and view the structure

critically from the sides and very
ends. Refer to steps 1.g. through i. on
page 17 to tighten the crossconnectors and finish off the ridge
pole.
h. Lower bolt holes on the ground posts:
i. For caterpillar tunnels - Per step 5.l.
of the Driving Ground Posts
procedure, a J-bolt should have
already been installed on the bottom
of each ground post before pounding
into the ground. If not, they can be
installed at this time. They should all
be pointed outward with the hook pointing down.
ii. For traditional coverings - Lay a 1" x 8" x 16' piece of ledger board up
against the outside of edge the ground posts; this will serves as the
baseboard. Note: This material is a suggestion only. Other materials
are available that may offer better rot resistance, etc. It really is just a
matter of personal preference and convenience. Standing inside the
tunnel, use the lower pre-drilled holes in the ground posts as a guide,
and drill through the baseboard with a 5/16" drill bit. Select a J-bolt and
thread its included 5/16 nut all the way on, add a flat washer, and
insert the J-bolt through the 5/16 hole in the baseboard and ground
post. Add a lock washer and nut on the opposite side and tighten,
leaving the tail of the J pointing down. Repeat for all ground posts
down both sides of the tunnel. Where individual pieces of board butt
together, join with a small piece of scrap that overlaps the butt joint
and secure with wood screws.
i.

Framing is complete!

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Skinning the Tunnel - Caterpillar Style: This part of the procedure describes how to create a
caterpillar or walk-in style tunnel covering. later in this manual we will discuss creating a more traditional
covering style with Poly Latch wire, end-walls, and roll-up sides. If you would prefer that type of covering,
proceed to page 27. Some growers create hybrids of both of these styles with tunnels that have end walls, but
are laced and vent like a caterpillar tunnel. There are no rules. We encourage you to build the tunnel that best
suits your own operational and financial needs.
1. Obtain four T-posts from your local farm supply or home improvement store. Drive two T-posts, side-byside, at about a 45 degree angle, 5 ft from each end of the tunnel, using a heavy cylindrical post
pounder. Drive as close together as possible, with the ribs facing toward the other T-post.
Post
Pounder
Ribs

TPost
2. Plastic: Save this step for the morning if
possible since it is generally less windy,
unless you have many hands to help and the
wind is not that strong. If you have short
ground posts, your greenhouse film should be
20 ft wide; if you have tall ground posts, your
film should be 24 ft. wide. It should also be 1520 ft. longer than your tunnel.
3. Unroll the plastic, along the side of the tunnel.
You can do this by carrying the roll on a piece
of pipe while the T-posts serve as a
convenient clamp (as shown), or by creating a
makeshift reel like we did for the weed barrier
(as shown on page 13). Before you cut the
plastic to length, ensure that the plastic is
centered lengthwise, and that there is at least
7-10 ft beyond each end of the tunnel.
4. If you have taller ground-posts, the tunnel
peak will be 8-1/2 ft. tall, which most people
can't reach. Therefore, before pulling the
plastic over the tunnel, it's a good idea to add
ropes every so twenty feet or so to aid in
controlling the plastic, especially if there is any
wind at all. Do that by wrapping a tennis ball in
plastic near the edge that will go over the
tunnel, tie some rope around it, and cast the
other end over the tunnel with a small weight
tied to it.
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5. With everyone in place, at the ends and along

the side, and some pulling on the tennis ball
ropes, raise the plastic up and over the tunnel.
6. Once that plastic is on top, it will be like a big
sail, so controlling it and holding it down will be
key, especially on longer tunnels like the 200footer pictured here. Ensure that you have
enough people to do so. The tennis ball ropes
can also be tied off to J-hooks to temporarily
hold the plastic in place.
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7. Adjust the plastic so an equal length drapes over each side along the entire length of the tunnel.
8. Secure one end of the plastic with weights, clamps, people, or the roll itself if a lot remains on it.
9. At the opposite end, with the plastic draped smoothly over the end and even laterally, gather the end of
the plastic in a big pony tail. Start in the center, and work out to each side, pulling the plastic snug as
you go. You should have what looks like the end of a very large bread wrapper in your hands when you
are done.
10. Twist the pony tail, and with two helpers spreading the T-posts apart, insert the pony tail between them
and slide it as close to the bottom as possible. Take care not to snag it on the ribs of the T-bars. Then,
with it still twisted, wrap it around one of the T-posts and back through again.
11. While still holding the pony tail, release the T-posts and compress them onto the plastic.
12. Tie the end of the pony tail with parachute cord or rope to prevent it from uncurling. Then tie the T-posts
tightly together.
13. Go to the opposite end of the tunnel. And repeat steps 6 through 9, except that this time, when you
gather the plastic and insert it into the T-posts, pull it lengthwise as tightly as you can.
14. At this point the tunnel should have plastic tied off at the ends and draping loosely, but smoothly over it.

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15. Lacing: Parts of this process are not unlike lacing your shoes. Refer to the diagram on page 9 for the
pattern. There are many lacing materials that you could use. We tested military parachute cord, which
has great availability online and is low cost. It has a high tensile 550 Lb. test multi-strand core and a
smooth over braid which slid over the plastic effortlessly. It tested very well for us, without one
breakage, and we highly recommend it. The following is a two-person operation with each person
positioned on opposite sides of the tunnel.

a. Insert the end of the cord through a

fairly full roll of duct tape.
b. Tie the end of the spool to a lacing bolt
on one of the corners of the tunnel.

Note: Do not throw the whole spool over to the other

side of the tunnel. The cardboard ends on these spools
are typically weak and will easily come off, which result in
a very unwanted, tangled mess.

c. Put the spool on a large screwdriver

or something similar and have one
person hold it.
d. Pull enough slack cord off the spool
to go over the tunnel and back, and
throw the duct tape over the tunnel.
e. From the opposite side of the tunnel,
the person who is not holding the
spool must pull enough slack cord
off the spool to go over the tunnel
and back, and then throw the duct
tape once again over the tunnel.
f.

Loop the cord under the next bows

lacing bolt while holding some light
tension on the laced cord - enough
to prevent it from unhooking from the
lacing bolts.

g. Keep repeating these steps until you

reach the last bow at the other end
of the tunnel. Temporarily tie off the
cord on the last corner lacing bolt on
that end.
h. Repeat steps 15.a. through h.,
starting at the same bow, but on the
opposite side.

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16. Tensioning:
a. Start in the same positions
you started at in step 15.b.
on page 24.
b. Pick one of the cords, and
with one person keeping
tension, while the other
cinches up the cord, working
back & forth down the tunnel
until you reach the end.
c. Tension and tie off
permanently on the last
corner's lacing bolt with a
trucker's hitch, illustrated
below.
d. Repeat steps p.i. through iii.,
starting at the same bow,
but on the opposite side, for
the other cord.

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17. Access and Venting are accomplished the

same way, by simply lifting up the plastic.
a. Start at one end of the tunnel, grasp the
bottom edge of the plastic between the first
and second bows, and raise it to the
desired ventilation level.
b. Repeat down the entire length of the
tunnel.
c. Repeat for the opposite side of the tunnel
to ensure good air circulation.
18. Seasonal Caterpillar Operation:
a. Early Spring and late Fall - You will
generally want to leave the tunnel sides
fully closed, day and night for maximum
warming.
b. Mid-to-late Spring and early-to-mid Fall Closed at night, vented a foot or two high during midday.
c. Summer Pretty much opened all the time, except for stormy days.
This design relies on friction to hold the plastic at a given ventilation
height. We found that in the intense heat of the summer, the plastic
expands substantially, beyond the point of adjustment by tensioning
the lacing. To avoid having to readjust the pony tails within the T-posts,
we found that spring clamps were the answer. They kept the now
loose plastic perfectly suspended at any height we desired. They were
about $1 each at a home improvement store and well worth the
investment. We also found that we could use them for extra security to
hold the plastic to the bottom of the bows during storms. Shade cloth is
also an option for protecting crops from summer heat.
d. Winter Operation If you are operating your tunnel during the
winter, you will want to seal the bottom outside edge. You can
do that as follows if you have installed weed barrier fabric:
i. At the base of each bow:
1. Cut a slit in the weed barrier that is perpendicular to the
tunnel.
2. Release the lacing at the J-bolt and leave hanging.
3. Flip the top layer of weed barrier fabric up over the J-bolt
and tuck up under the edge of the plastic.
4. Replace the lacing now over the plastic and weed
barrier.
ii. Use sandbags at the edges of the plastic near the ends to
hold it down to the ground and provide a good seal there.
iii. Internal row cover directly floating on crops or suspended
by hoops will add an extra layer of protection and spur
growth even earlier in Spring.
e. Winter Layup If you choose to not use your tunnel in Winter (or if you are bracing for a major storm),
simply rotate the plastic all the way over to one side and leave it there. Tying it to the bows is also a
good idea, to prevent wind from wreaking havoc. In early spring, the plastic can be rotated back into
place and used to melt the snow, allowing an earlier start on the season.
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Skinning the Tunnel - Traditional Covering Style: This part of the procedure describes how to
create a more traditionally covered tunnel with end walls, doors, and roll-up sides. Again, since there are no
hard and fast rules, we will attempt to show you a couple ideas we've implemented at our farm and hopefully
you will be able build from them to create a tunnel that meets both your operational needs as well as you
financial requirements.
1. Baseboards: These should have been installed on the side of the tunnel per step 1.f.ii. on page 16 or
2.k.ii. on page 20 of Framing the Tunnel. There are many materials available that may offer better rot
resistance, etc. It really is just a matter of personal preference and convenience as to what you choose to
use. The picture below shows a lower cost material - 1" x 8" pine ledger board, a rough-cut wood that is
used for concrete forms. Conveniently, it comes in 16 ft. lengths. Some other common materials chosen for
baseboards are 2" x 6" to 2" x 10" pine boards or similar. The taller the material, the more wind and cold
protection it gives to the plants near the sides of the tunnel.
a. If you have not installed
these already, lay a piece of
whatever material you have
chosen for baseboards
against the outside of edge
of the bottom of the ground
posts. Using the lower predrilled holes in the ground
posts and bows as a guide,
drill through the baseboard
with a 5/16" drill bit. Select a
J-bolt and thread its
included 5/16 nut all the
way on. Add a flat washer
and insert through the
5/16 hole on the end of the
half bow. Add a lock washer
and nut on the opposite
side and tighten, leaving the
tail of the J pointing down.
Repeat down both sides of
the tunnel. For taller
materials (e.g.: 2" x 8" and
2" x 10" boards, you may
also want to install a
carriage bolt above the Jbolt.
b. Where individual pieces of
board butt together, join
with a small piece of scrap
that overlaps the butt joint
and secure with wood
screws.

Note:Pleasedisregardthelowerhorizontalpipesshownin
thesepictures.Thesewereoriginallypurlinsthatwerelocated
higherupthattheownerdecidednottouse.Theywereonlyleft
inplacebecausetheyfunctiontostrengthenthestructure.

c. Install 2" x 6" x 12' pieces of

pine or similar material
across the end walls to
serve as the baseboards
there. Pre-drill with a 1/4" drill bit through the ground posts and thru-bolt with 1/4"-20 x 3" carriage bolts
and nuts. A thicker material was chosen for these baseboards because they will support the door
frames and act as door jambs, which will likely get stepped on and take frequent abuse.

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9018.999Rev1.08/14AL

2. Hipboards: These provide some bracing for the tunnel and a convenient place to mount Poly Latch
wire channel. They are typically made out of 1" x 6" or 2" x 6" board. In this picture, we used the same 1"
x 8" ledger board for hipboards on this smaller tunnel. On the longer tunnels at our farm, we used 1" x 6"
boards.
a. Determine your desired venting
height for roll-up sides and clamp
your first piece of board to be used
for hipboards to the bows so that
the bottom edge is at that height
and so that it is flush with one end
and an even distance from the
baseboard at both ends. From the
inside, drill through the bow first
and then through the board with a
1/4" drill bit and thru-bolt with 1/4"20 x 3" carriage bolts and 1/4"
nuts. Repeat down both sides of
the tunnel.
b. Where individual pieces of board
butt together, join with a small
piece of scrap that overlaps the
butt joint and secure with wood
screws.
c. Install 2" x 6" x 12' pieces of pine
or similar material across the end
walls to serve as the baseboards
there. Pre-drill with a 5/16" drill bit
through the ground posts and thrubolt with 5/16"-18 x 3" carriage
bolts and nuts. A thicker material
was chosen for these baseboards
because they will support the door
frames and act as door jambs,
which will likely get stepped on and
take frequent abuse.
3. Poly Latch Wire Channel: This is a convenient, reusable,
and high-integrity connection system for high tunnel plastic
and other cover materials. The extruded aluminum channel
can attach to high tunnel frames, baseboards, hipboards,
door frames, you name it. It bends readily over hoops and
has a machined groove to center drill bits or self-drilling tech
screws when attaching. A preformed stainless spring steel
Poly Latch Wire securely locks materials into the channel by
snapping over the covering and into the channel to quickly
secure greenhouse film, shade cloth, etc. It also
conveniently tensions the covering as the wire is installed.
Safety glasses are highly recommended because the end of
the wire can flop around wildly as it is being 'wiggled' into
place. The wire is shorter to minimize that effect. These
components are sold by Johnny's as follows:
7041 Poly Latch Wire. 4 ft. section.
7040 Poly Latch Wire Channel. 8 ft. section.
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9018.999Rev1.08/14AL

a.

WW Channel on Hipboards: Hold a piece of Poly Latch

Wire Channel on top of one end of a hipboard. Center it
vertically and clamp it in place. Using #8 x 1/2" Phillips-head
self-drilling tek screws, secure it in place. Phillips head
screws are used to prevent damage to the plastic. Install
screws every foot or so. Butt a second piece up to the end
of the first and secure in place. Repeat down both sides of
the tunnel. Use a hack saw or reciprocating saw to cut the
final pieces to length prior to attaching.

b.

WW Channel on Baseboards: Attach a small piece of

scrap or a small pre-cut piece of channel at the top edge of
each end of each base board. This could be as short as 1.5
ft. or as long as the bow spacing. The latter would be
desirable for longer tunnels. This will be for the draft
prevention overlap layer that prevents air intrusion when the
roll-up sides are closed.

c.

WW Channel on End Bows: On the

outside of the tunnel, hold a piece of
channel vertically and rest it on the
baseboard at the bottom of one side
of one of the end bows. Clamp it
tightly to the end bow. Using a #8 x
3/4" Phillips-head self-drilling tek
screw, secure it in place. With a
screw now in place, loosen the clamp
and squeeze the aluminum channel
against the bow, forming the next
couple feet of it around the curvature
of the bow and over the hipboard and
horizontal Poly Latch wire channel. Clamp
it in place and cut it just below the
hipboard. Clamp it again to the bow
and secure with two more Phillips tek
screws. Clamp the leftover piece of
channel to the end bow just above the
hipboard and secure in place with a
tek screw. Form the next couple feet
around the curvature of the bow and
clamp in place. Secure with tek
screws about every foot or so. Attach
the next piece butted up to it in a
similar fashion as before. Continue up
and over the peak as shown in the
inset photo below and down over the
opposite side of the bow. Repeat for
the opposite end of the tunnel.

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4. Doors: There are many, many ways to

do doors. This is how we did ours. We
were going for maximum light and
minimum cost.
a. Determine your desired door width.
You certainly would want it wide
enough for tiller access. You may
even want to build a ramp on either
side of the baseboard for easier
access. Our width was based on the
material we used for the door and
being able to access with a tiller.
b. We wanted our door to have a Clear
Polycarbonate roofing panel in it.
These come in 26" x 8 ft. corrugated
sheets. To create a frame for it, we
needed two 2 x 4's on the top and
bottom that were the width of the
panel, plus 2 times the width of the
2 x 4 itself. The 4" side of a 2 x 4 is
actually 3.5", but we have to account for a channel we would mill in the edge of the 2 x 4's that is 3/4"
deep. So, 26"+2*3.5-2*0.75 = 31.5" wide. The height of the door has to be a bit less than the end wall
bow height. This one was going on a tunnel that had short ground posts, so we made it 64.5" long (the
remaining length of a 2 x 4 that is 8 ft. long).
c. Before cutting, using a table saw and a dado blade, we milled a channel in the edge of the 2 x 4's about
3/4" deep. You can also run the boards over a standard table saw blade several times, moving the
guide over an 1/8th of an inch or so each time (about the 'kerf' or cutting width of the blade) in order to
achieve the same effect.
d. Cut the four boards for each door to length and assemble the door loosely as shown above. Check for
square and clamp in place. Using 4" wood screws, secure each corner from the outside of the longer
boards into the end of the smaller boards. Pre-drilling first and counter-sinking each hole are also
recommended.
e. We also attached 1 x 4 boards across the center of each side of each door for added strength. We
used 1.5" wood screws for that.

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5. Door Frame and End Wall: Again, there are many, many ways to do this. This is how we did ours:
a. Doorway width: Starting on one end of the tunnel, find the center of the end wall baseboard and make
a mark. Measure out to the left from that mark one half the width of the door (15.75") and make a mark.
Repeat to the right as well.
b. Inner door frame boards: Stand a 2 x 4 vertically on end up to the edge of one of these marks so that
it is just inside the end wall baseboard and the end wall bow. Position it such that its widest side is
facing you the 2 x 4 should be touching the ground and should be to the inside of the mark to allow the
door to overlap. Clamp or hold a level up to the side of the 2 x 4 and position it so that it is plumb
(perfectly vertical) and clamp it to the bow. Make a mark on the 2 x 4 just under and just above the bow
as well as just above the baseboard. Make a mark on the bow also, even with the inside of the 2 x 4.
With a 'try square' or 'L square', draw lines to cut the 2 x 4 to length and to cut notches for the bow and
baseboard as shown above.
Cut out the notches with a saw. Stand the 2 x 4 back up where it was, check it for plumb, and clamp it
in place. Secure from the outside on the bottom with 2-1/2" wood screws. On the top, pre-drill
horizontally through the bow and then through the notched end of the 2 x 4 with a 1/4" drill bit, and
secure the top of the 2 x 4 with a 1/4" x 4" carriage bolt, washer and nut. Repeat for the opposite side.

InnerDoorFrame
Boards(2)

InnerDoorFrameBoards(2)

OuterDoorFrameBoards(2)

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c. Outer door frame boards: Stand another 2 x 4 vertically on end against the outside of one of the door
frame boards installed in 5.b. above so that it is resting on the inside edge of the baseboard and
against the inside of the end bow. Position it such that its widest side is facing you. Using the end bow
as a guide, make a mark on the 2 x 4 just under the bow.
Cut the 2 x 4 to length at that angle. Secure to the door frame board it was measured against with 21/2" wood screws. 'Toe nail' an extra screw diagonally through the bottom outside of the board into the
baseboard to keep it from swiveling. Repeat for the opposite side.

OutsideTop
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32

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d. Doorway header: We want

at least an inch and a half of
overlap at the top and bottom
of the door as well. Measure
the height of your door. Ours
was 64.5". Subtract 3".
Measure up from the
baseboard along one of the
inner door frame boards to
that measurement *(61.5" for
us) and make a mark. Repeat
for the opposite side as well.
Hold a 2 x 4 horizontally across the inside of the top of the doorway. Place one edge of it against the
left inner door frame board and behind the right door frame boards. Using the right door frame board as
a guide, make a mark on the 2 x 4 on the inside edge of the frame. Cut two pieces of 2 x 4 to this
length.
Hold both header boards in place as shown below and level. The cross-connector on the end bow may
be a limiting factor s it was for us, since this tunnel was built on shorter ground posts. Clamps are very
useful to hold them in place. Ensure that the bottom of the bottom board is below both marks made
above. If you are installing on a tunnel with taller ground posts, position the lower header board at the
lower of the two marks when the header board is level. Secure the header boards in place with 2-1/2"
wood screws.
e. Poly Latch Wire Channel: Outline the doorway with Poly Latch wire channel as shown. Make sure you
leave enough room for a 2 x 3 board (see step 5.h.). Then add a strip at the top edge of the end wall
baseboard on either side of the door frame as shown. Attach by the same method previously described
using Phillips tek screws and cut to length as necessary.

Poly LatchWire
Channel
Segments

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f.

Hanging the door: Horizontally position

the door over the doorway such that the
edge that will have a hinge is in line with
the point where the inner and outer door
frame boards meet on that side of the
doorway; confirm you have the same
overlap on the opposite side (this should
be 1.5" or the width of the inner 2 x 4's.
Adjust vertical position such that you have
even overlap at the top and bottom. When
you are satisfied with its position, ensure it
is level, and clamp it in place. Attach a 2 x
3 to the outside of the door frame along
the edge of the side of the door that will
have hinges. Secure very well with
several 2-1/2" wood screws, because it
will be supporting the weight of the door.

Hinge

2x3
board

Latch
Location

Attach two or three evenly spaced hinges

along the 2 x 3, positioning them such that
the hinge itself is aligned with the seam
between the door and the 2 x 3. Attach
some kind of latch on the opposite side.

Hinge

g. Skinning the End Wall: You should be using 24 ft. wide greenhouse film if you have short ground
posts or 28 ft. wide film if you have longer ground posts. Place the roll on piece of top rail and hang it
on a pair of D-handled digging forks or spades. Pull off about 8 ft for shorter tunnels, 9 ft for taller and
cut somewhat straight across with a razor knife. This is best accomplished against the ground.

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Drape the plastic over the end wall bow so that the cut portion is horizontal and even with the bottom
of the baseboard. Starting at the peak, insert Poly Latch wire down both sides of the end wall bow at
the same time, pulling the plastic tight as you go. By the nature of the way Poly Latch wire works, it will
take up some plastic as it is inserted. Doing it concurrently on opposite sides has a desirable stretching
and tightening effect on the plastic. This will make the tunnel more wind resistant than one with loose
plastic. Doing one side, then the other will also result in tightening, but may move and/or misalign the
plastic more than you may want it to and make it crooked or even short-sheeted on one side.
Poly LatchWire

Greenhouse
Film

Greenhouse
Film

On the side of the tunnel, pull

the bottom end of the plastic
tight and Poly Latch wire a 2 ft.
section into the end of the
hipboard and the small section
of Poly Latch wire channel on
the side baseboard below it.
Next, Poly Latch wire around
the door. If you find the plastic is
too tight and is starting to tear,
cut a slit up the plastic over the
center of the door to give it
some slack and pull tight by
hand as needed as you Poly
Latch wire the door in. Do the
top first, then each side. Finally,
Poly Latch wire the strips on
each side of the end wall
hipboard. When you are done,
the plastic should be taught like
a drum and wrinkle free.

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Repeat steps 5.a. through g. for

the opposite end of the tunnel.
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6. Skinning the Main Portion of the Tunnel: This process is best done with little or no wind. If possible,
postpone this portion of the procedure if the weather is not cooperative.
a. The correct width for plastic for this tunnel is 24 ft. if you have short ground posts or 28 ft. if you have
long ground posts. Johnny's has included several lengths of 24 and 28 ft. wide Tufflite IV Greenhouse
Film to our inventory specifically to support construction of these tunnels. Depending on the length and
ground posts size of the tunnel you decide to build, our Excel spreadsheet calculator tell you which
length, width, and part number is appropriate for your project.
b. Position the plastic at one end of the tunnel and offset, so that it faces down the side of the tunnel.
c. Pull film off the roll and walk with it down the side of the tunnel until you reach the opposite end. For
longer and/or taller tunnels, you may want to have extra people on hand and use ropes with tennis balls
tied into the plastic (see page 22) to help with the next step.
d. Raise the plastic up and over the tunnel and align it evenly on both sides.
e. Install a section of Poly Latch wire (maybe 2 ft.) at the peak of one end of the tunnel. Go to the opposite
end, pull the film tight lengthwise down the top of the tunnel and install a small section on that end.
Then, working together and at opposite ends of the tunnel, Poly Latch wire the plastic downward from
the peak to the hipboard on one side of the tunnel, pulling the plastic taught lengthwise evenly as you
go. Be careful not to pull so hard as to tear the plastic. Then, repeat for the opposite side.

Poly LatchWire
Poly LatchWire
Greenhouse
Film

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7. Roll-up Sides: There are a couple options here. You can choose low cost manual roll-ups that require
manually rolling up each side of the tunnel and inserting a kick-stand to hold them in place, or you can
choose hand crank roll-ups that allow you to roll up the side of the tunnel and stop it at any point you like.
a. Low Cost Manual Roll-ups: This design
uses 1/2" EMT conduit, 1/2" EMT
compression fittings, part# 9608 Snap
Clamps, #8 x 3/4" Phillips-head self-drilling
tek screws, and 1/2" cast iron water pipe Tfittings. This is a good cost-saving option for
shorter tunnels, but is not recommended for
tunnels over 30 ft. long. This can also easily
be used in place of a door on one of the
end walls to further shave costs and
maximize venting capability.
i.

Lay out 10 ft. sections of 1/2" EMT

along the side of the tunnel. Connect
them together using a 1/2" EMT
compression fittings. Tighten both sides
of each fitting against each other and
install a tek screw in each side of the
fitting through the EMT to prevent it from
slipping. Pre-drilling may be necessary.
Cut the last piece of EMT so that you
have at least 6" extending beyond each
end of the tunnel. Lay this assembled
piece down along the side of the tunnel.

ii.

Attach a T-fitting to one end of the EMT:

Fully insert the EMT into it. You may
need to 'thread' it on somewhat. Pre-drill
and drive a tek screw through it and into
the EMT inside it to prevent slipping.

iii.

Lay the assembled EMT on the loose

plastic at the bottom of one side of the
tunnel. Wrap it around the EMT evenly
and secure in place with Snap Clamps
every foot or so. Adjust the Snap
Clamps as necessary, removing any
wrinkles in the plastic and ensuring that
the EMT is parallel to the baseboards.

iv.

Install Phillips self-drilling tek screws

through the Snap Clamps.

v.

Trim the plastic as necessary.

vi.

Grasp the T-fitting and rotate it to roll the

plastic up and insert a leftover 3 to 5 ft.
piece of EMT into one side of the Tfitting. This will serve as a 'kickstand' for
it, keeping it at any level you leave off
as well as serve to keep the plastic
pinned against the side of the tunnel
module to some degree.

vii.

Repeat steps 7.a.i. through vi. above for

the opposite side of the tunnel.

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b. Side Wall Hand Crank Roll-ups: This design uses 3/4" EMT conduit, 3/4" EMT compression fittings,
part# 9150 Snap Clamps, #8 x 3/4" Phillips-head self-drilling tek screws, and #7033 Sidewall Hand
Crank.
i.

ii.

Lay out 10 ft. sections of 3/4" EMT

along the side of the tunnel. Connect
them together using a 3/4" EMT
compression fittings. Tighten both sides
of each fitting against each other and
install a tek screw in each side of the
fitting through the EMT to prevent it
from slipping. Pre-drilling may be
necessary. Cut the last piece of EMT so
that you have at least 6" extending
beyond each end of the tunnel.
Lay the assembled EMT on the loose
plastic at the bottom of one side of the
tunnel. Wrap it around the EMT evenly
and secure in place with Snap Clamps
every foot or so. Adjust the Snap
Clamps as necessary, removing any
wrinkles in the plastic and ensuring that
the EMT is parallel to the baseboards.

iii.

Install Phillips self-drilling tek screws

through the Snap Clamps.

iv.

Trim the plastic as necessary.

v.

Guide Rail: Make a mark in the center

of a 10 ft. piece of 3/4" EMT. Drive one
end a couple inches into the ground at
the base of the corner of the end bow
where you have chosen to locate the
hand crank, right below the Poly Latch wire
channel. Using the Poly Latch wire channel
installed on the end bow as a jig, bend
the EMT around the bow to the mark
you made in the center. Pull the EMT
out of the ground, flip it over and repeat
for the opposite end. Cut the EMT at the
mark you made before bending it. This
will give you two pre-bent guide rails
with a slight curve so that the Hand
Crank will follow the contour of the of
the bow - this will be more important for
tunnels with short ground posts.

vi.

Handcrank: Some adapters come with

the Hand Crank for other sizes of pipe;
you will not need them for this
installation. Slide the Sidewall Hand
Crank over the end of the long EMT
assembly and tighten the set screw
against the EMT. Attach the handle to
the spindle on the end of the Hand
Crank.

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vii.

Holding the casing of the Hand Crank in one hand, turn the
handle to take up any slack there is in the plastic until the
rolled up plastic and EMT is up against the very bottom of
the tunnel.

viii.

Insert the guide rail through the rollers in the guide channel
and drive it about a foot into the ground. Rotate it so that the
curve of the guide rail is parallel with the curve of the end
bow. Note: In order to ensure full venting, the guide rail must
not be driven in so far that the top of the guide rail is below
the height of the Poly Latch wire channel.

ix.

Turn the handle of the Hand Crank to roll up the sidewall

plastic. A built in brake will automatically hold the plastic
roll at any point that you stop turning.

x.

Roll all the way up to check alignment. At this point, the

rolled up plastic should be parallel with the horizontal Poly
Latch wire channel. This is important for uniform venting. If
not, roll back down and adjust Snap Clamps as necessary.

xi.

Repeat steps 7.b.i. through x. above for the opposite side of

the tunnel.

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8. Hipboards:
a. Roll both sides up about a foot off the
ground so the EMT and other hardware is
weighing down the plastic.
b. Starting at one end of the tunnel, Poly
Latch wire the channel on the hipboard.
No additional tension should be
necessary.
c. Repeat for the opposite side. The top
covering of the tunnel should tighten up
and be free of wrinkles as you do so.
d. Cut away any excess plastic.

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9. Lacing: This consists of line, rope, twine, or even webbing that is applied over the roll-up sides to keep
them tight against the tunnel and prevent wind from catching (and damaging) them when they are partially
open or closed. We generally prefer parachute cord because it has 550 lb. breaking strength and is UV
resistant. There are many sources online.
a. Roll the sides up about half way.

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b. Fasteners - Along the

bottom of the tunnel you
should have J-bolts
installed. You could also
use eye bolts. Along the
hipboards, the lacing may
be attached to eye screws
or laced through the Poly Latch
wire.
c. Arrange your spool of
lacing at one end of the
side of the tunnel as
shown.
d. Lace in a zig-zag pattern
from hipboard to baseboard
the entire length of the
tunnel. At each end you
should also have a vertical
run that is parallel to the
end wall bow.
e. Tie off on one end with a
bowline or similar knot.
Starting at that end pull the
lacing tight down the length
of the tunnel. Tighten and
tie off on the opposite end
using a trucker's hitch, illustrated on page 25.
f.

Repeat steps 9.a. through e. for the other side

of the tunnel.

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Other Tunnel Options

1. Scissor Doors: A viable, low-cost option for your end walls. This portion of the procedure would replace
steps 4 and 5 of 'Skinning the Tunnel - Traditional Covering Style' on pages 30 through 35.

a. When installing the ridge pole, leave a 4" portion

extending beyond the outside of the end wall on each
end of the tunnel.
b. Cut two pieces of 1-3/8" top-rail to a length that is
about 1 ft less than the distance between the ridge
pole and the ground at the end of the tunnel. Then,
pre-drill one with a 1/4" hole about 3/4" from the end.
Make four of these.
c. Position a brace band inside the pre-drilled end of one
of the scissor door rails. Slide a 1/4"-20 x 1.75"
carriage bolt through the predrilled holes and the brace
band. Secure with a 1/4" nut and tighten. Repeat for
the other three rails. Slide the brace band on the end
of one of the rails over the protruding ridge pole on the
end-wall side of the tunnel. Add another rail in the
same fashion. They should hang freely and be able
to rotate out to the sides of the tunnel easily. Drive a
tek screw into the top of the ridge pole just outside
the brace band of the second rail that was installed.
This will keep them from slipping off the ridge pole.
repeat for the opposite end of the tunnel.
d. Pull out 15 ft. of greenhouse film and cut it down the
middle. This can be done at the same time as shown
to the right by holding a utility knife near the roll while
pulling it off the spool.
e. Cut it to length, then cross-cut each of those still
folded pieces in half. This should give you four pieces
that are each 7.5 ft. x 12 ft. if you have 24 ft. wide
plastic, or 7.5 ft. x 14 ft. if you have 28 ft. wide plastic.

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f.

g.

h.

i.

j.
k.
l.
m.
n.

o.
p.

Drive a 5 ft. section of 1-3/8" top-rail

about 1.5 ft. into the ground, directly
beneath the cross-connector at the peak
of the end wall of the tunnel.
Clamp one scissor door rail to the
center post. Clamp the other to the end
bow so that it is up and out of the way.
Ensure the clamp holding the vertical
scissor door rail to the ground post does
not loosen or release during any part of
steps 1.g. through k.
Lay a piece of cut plastic over the end
wall opening opposite of the scissor
door pipe that was clamped up and out
of the way with one 7.5 ft. side parallel
to the ground. The corner of the
opposite end should be just over the
peak, with any excess on the ground.
Add some clamps on the bow to
temporarily hold the sheet of plastic in
place.
Wrap the plastic around the vertical
scissor door pipe evenly and secure
with five Snap Clamps on each rail.
7035 Snap Clamps. Bag of 10.
Starting at the peak and working down,
Poly Latch wire this sheet of plastic over
the end wall bow.
Adjust Snap Clamps as necessary to
remove any wrinkles in the door plastic.
Install self-drilling tek screws (Phillips or
hex head - your choice) through the
Snap Clamps.
Release the clamp keeping the other
scissor door pipe out of the way and let
it hang vertically near the other one.
Lay a piece of cut plastic over the
opposite side now and wrap it around
the vertical scissor door pipe evenly.
Secure in place with Snap Clamps
every foot or so, but align them so that
they are in between the Snap Clamps
on the other pipe.
Clamp both pipes together and to the
ground post.
Poly Latch wire the other side of the
plastic sheet to the end bow.

q. Adjust Snap Clamps as necessary to

remove any wrinkles in the plastic.
r.

Install self-drilling tek screws through

the Snap Clamps.

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s. Trim off any excess plastic. You'll note that

the Poly Latch wire channel makes a
convenient guide for trimming plastic on
the inside of the tunnel. The plastic on the
scissor doors should reach the ground and
extend outward at least a foot so that sand
bags or other weights may be used to seal
the end walls of the tunnel in cold weather.
t.

Repeat steps 1.g. through s. for the

opposite end of the tunnel.

u. Scissor doors may be held in place by

installing a fully threaded 3/8" x 5" hex or
carriage bolt through both scissor door
pipes and the ground post that is secured
with a jam nut and wing nut (shown to
right). Or, you can simply opt to use a
spring clamp to keep them shut. The
former may be a better application for
when the tunnel is closed for longer
periods like in winter. The latter may be
better when venting frequently (spring and
fall).

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2. Cable Purlins for Trellising: This design allows trellising vine crops to the frame without creating
pockets for water and snow to form like traditional purlins can. The cable is suspended securely away from
the plastic, allowing water and snow to easily run off. The following procedure is more easily accomplished
when the tunnel is not covered but may be done after with a little more difficulty.
a. Materials needed per trellis: #9 Wire, one hook and eye turnbuckle, one brace band (or tension band)
per bow, #10 x 3/4 in. hex-head self-drilling tek screws. Aircraft cable may also be used in lieu of the #9
wire, but you will also need four wire cable clamps per trellis.
b. Brace bands will be placed directly above the center of the bed to be trellised. A plumb bob or string
with a weight may be used to find the best location above the bed at each end of the tunnel. Mark those
spots on each of the end bows.
c. Run a string from each of
those marks, pull it tight, and
make a mark on each of the
bows down the tunnel.
d. Slip one brace band over
each bow at the marks.
e. Position the first brace band
at the mark on the end wall
bow. Angle inward and
slightly away from the end
wall and squeeze together
with a pair of Vise Grips.
Secure in place with one tek
screws one side of the brace
band. Brace band
thicknesses vary and you
may need to pre-drill through
them before inserting the tek
screws.
f.

Repeat 2.e. for the opposite

end of the tunnel.

g. Install the rest of the brace

bands on each of the
remaining bows in the same
way, but with them
positioned so they are
pointing straight in
(perpendicular to the length
of the tunnel), and with a tek
screw on each side so that
when the Vise Grips are
removed, the brace bands
remain closed.
h. Starting at the second bow,
thread the end of the #9
Wire into the 'eye' of the
brace band on that bow, and
then feed the wire through
all the rest of the brace band
eyes except for the one on
the opposite end bow.

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i.

Make a haywire twist in the end of the #9 Wire: Make a tight loop
about 1.5 ft. long. Grasp one end with a pair of pliers and the other
with an adjustable wrench and twist several times until the loop gets
very small. Then, bend the tag end of the wire out so it is
perpendicular and wrap it around the main wire several times.

j.

Secure the haywire twist to the eye of the brace band on one end
wall bow with a 1/4"-20 x 1" carriage bolt and 1/4" nut.

k. On the far end of the tunnel, open up a turnbuckle almost fully and
secure it to the end wall brace band with a 1/4"-20 x 1" carriage bolt
and 1/4" nut.
l.

Run the wire through the hook on the turnbuckle, pull it as tight as
you can in line with the length of the tunnel, then loop it around the
turnbuckle's hook.

m. Remove it from the turnbuckle and make a haywire twist in the end
as you did in step 2.i..
n. Slip the loop in the end of the haywire twist over the hook on the
turnbuckle and tighten until the wire is taught. Be careful not to over
tighten and put too much stress on the end wall. On longer tunnels,
adding angle braces on the end wall hoops would be a very good
idea, especially for heavier vine crops such as tomatoes.
o. You can trellis vine crops to this purlin by tying directly to it, or using
slip-over devices such as Roller Hooks.
p. Repeat steps 2.b. through n. for any other rows you would like to
trellis.

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3. Seedling and Microgreens Bench: This is a great addition to any house, because it allows you

to use the table when you like and fold it out of the way - either up or down, whichever is more
convenient. Use it for seedlings, potting, temporary storage, microgreens production, or curing
garlic, onions, or squash. This one is designed in sections, so that things can be transferred from
one bench to another when you need to work in the bed below it. The emptied bench can then be
elevated, for easy access.

TopViewDiagram
4ft.

2ft.

10ft.
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A
F

B
C

G
J

a. Materials: A bill of materials (per 10 ft. section) is listed in the calculator above. The key for the
component drawing above is as follows (drawing does not include nuts, bolts, screws, and chain):
Fig.

Qty.

Description

Use

10 ft. length of top rail

Front rail of shelf

46-5/8" length of top rail

Longer rear rails of shelf

22-5/8" length of top rail

Shorter rear rail of shelf

30" length of top rail

Longer cross rails attached to the tunnel bows

21-1/4" length of top rail

Shorter cross rails

Brace bands

3 for hinges; 2 for chain supports

End caps

Part of hinge on longer cross rails

Line rail clamp

Connecting top rail

End rail clamp

Connecting top rail

Hardware cloth, 1/2" mesh, 2 ft. x 25 ft.

Shelf surface

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b. Using a hack saw or reciprocating saw, cut the top rail to length per the chart in step 6.a. on the
previous page.
c. Attach the three end caps (G) to the ends of the three 30"
cross rails (D) by sliding them over the ends and securing
with a tek screw on either side.
d. Make a level mark on three of your hoophouse bows at a
shelf height desirable to you. This should be at least 33"
from the ground in order for the shelf to be able to fold all
the way down. Slip a brace band over the each of the
three bows and squeeze together as best you can.
e. Attach each of the end caps on the long cross rails to each
of the brace bands install on the bows using a 3/8" x 1"
hex bolt and 3/8" nylock hex nut. Tighten fully, then back
off until the cross rail is able to pivot easily up and down.
Adjust the brace bands to the marks made on 6.d. above,
and install spring clamps below them to prevent them from
sliding down the bow. Check to make sure they can easily
pivot all the way down and are at least 2" above the
ground or the tunnel floor.

f.

Attach the 10 ft. front rail of the shelf to the three longer cross rails (D) using one end rail clamp (I) and
two line rail clamps (H) per the diagram below. Do this by clamping everything temporarily in place and
installing tek screws in the smaller holes of the clamps except for those holes indicated below where
the eye bolts will go.

Eyebolt

Eyebolt

g. Pre-drill 3/8" holes through

the front rail for the eye bolts
per the diagram above. Install
eye bolts and tighten.

h. With a pair of pliers, bend one

of the eye bolts open slightly,
slip the end of the chain
through it, and bend it back
into place. You could also
attach the chain to the eye
bolt using a threaded quick
link if you prefer.

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i.

Slip brace bands around the bows directly above those two eye bolts and
hold temporarily in place with a spring clamp installed just below each of
them. Loosely attach the eyelet end of a turnbuckle to each of the brace
bands with a 3/8" x 1" hex bolt and 3/8" nylock hex nut. Loosen each brace
band by holding the hook and turning the frame until each is extended
about 2/3 of its full reach.

j.

Swivel the shelf up so it is roughly level and run the chain up to the hook
end of the turnbuckle. Slide the brace band up or down the bow until the
turnbuckle is positioned directly above the eye bolt and the chain is plumb.
Lower the shelf down, tighten the hex bolt on the brace band, and install a
tek screw through it into the bow. Then, raise the shelf back up again until
roughly level and slip the nearest chain link onto the hook of the turnbuckle.
Cut the excess chain off using heavy duty wire cutters, bolt cutters, or a
hack saw. Cut off the half link left on the chain and attach the end link to the
other eye bolt on the shelf as described in step 3.i. Run the chain up to the
second turnbuckle and adjust the second brace band so that the chain is
plumb, tighten the hex bolt, and secure to the bow with a tek screw. Then
slip the chain over the hook of the turnbuckle and cut the excess chain off.

k. Attach the two longer rear rails (B) and one shorter rear rail (C) to the three longer cross rails (D)
using one end rail clamp (I) and two line rail clamps (H) per this diagram. Position the rear rails
using the shorter cross rails (E) as spacers between the front and rear rails. Clamp everything in
place, and adjust as necessary, using the wire mesh roll to spot check shelf width. When you are
satisfied that everything is aligned correctly, install tek screws in the smaller holes of the clamps.

l.

Attach the three shorter cross rails (E) using six end rail clamps (I) per this diagram by clamping
and installing tek screws.

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m. Roll the wire mesh out over the shelf frame

and use clamps to hold it in place.
n. Using the large square holes on the installed
rail clamps as a guide, pre-drill through rails
with a 5/16" drill bit. Install a 5/16" x 2"
carriage bolt through each with a nut, and
tighten. Try to catch the mesh with the
carriage bolt heads wherever possible.
o. Secure the mesh to the frame using the 11gauge aluminum chain link ties by inserting
them through the mesh, wrapping over the
rail, and twisting together below. Cut the
mesh to length at the far end using wire
cutters or sheet metal shears and finish
securing with the aluminum ties.
p. Using a long bubble level, adjust the
turnbuckles until the shelf is level. Install tek
screws through the three lower brace bands
on the bows. Unhook and lower the shelf
down as necessary, but be careful not to
move the spring clamps holding the brace
bands up. Remove the spring clamps when
finished.
q. The shelf is now complete.

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r.

Operation:
i. To lower - Simply unhook the chains from the brace bands
and lower the shelf down until it is vertical and against (or
almost against) the tunnel ground posts.

ii. To raise - Grasp the upper part of one of the chains and pull
up on it while pulling up near the center of the front rail, and
slip the chain at its shortest length possible over the
turnbuckle's hook. Repeat for the opposite chain. If this will
be up for some time and you don't want it to fall if bumped,
you can tighten the turnbuckles to secure it in place.

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Table of Contents
Overview

Construction Options

Materials

Site Selection

Contents, and Mounting

Bending Pipes

Assembling Bows

Creating Ground Posts

Designing Your Structure

Hints for Squaring

10

Site Preparation and Setting Ground Posts

Without Weed Barrier

11

With Weed barrier

12

Framing the Tunnel

With Short Ground Posts

15

With Long Ground Posts

18

Skinning the Tunnel

Caterpillar Covering Style
Skinning

21

Lacing

24

Tensioning

25

Venting and Seasonal Operation

26

Traditional Covering Style

Baseboards

27

Hipbards

28

Poly Latch Wire Installation

28

Doors

30

End Walls

31

Skinning
End Walls

34

Main Portion of Tunnel

36

Roll-up Sides
Low-cost

37

Side Wall Hand Cranks

38

Poly Latch Wire

40

Lacing
Other Tunnel Options

41

Scissor Doors

43

Cable Purlins for Trellising

46

Seedling and Microgreens Bench

48

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