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Edited by:

ASFIC
http://www.doongardeningsociety.yolasite.com

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Ser No
Subject
1
Climate Data of Dun Valley
GARDEN ACTIVITIES
2
January
3
February
4
March
5
April
6
May
7
June
8
July
9
August
10
September
11
October
12
November
13
December
14
Lawns - fertiliser application
15
Plant propagation methods
16
Chrysanthemums for the Home Garden
17
Climbers and creepers
18
Roses The Queen of Flowers
19
Insects pests diseases and control
20
Common gardening mistakes
21
Compost the ideal plant food
22
Conversion chart
23
NPK contents of various manures and
fertlisers
24
Know your soil Jar Test
25
Liquid Organic Fertiliser
26
Doon gardening society By Laws
27
Doon Gardening Society Membership
Application Form

Page
3
4
9
13
16
19
21
23
25
28
33
35
38
39
43
50
66
74
86
113
115
121
124
125
128
132
136

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Climate Data of Dun Valley for all the months is as under on the basis of mean of
last 25 years.
Relative
Month
Rainfall
Temperature
Humidity
(mm)
(%)
Max
Min
Ave.
January
46.9
91
19.3
3.6
10.9
February
54.9
83
22.4
5.6
13.3
March
52.4
69
26.2
9.1
17.5
April
21.2
53
32
13.3
22.7
May
54.2
49
35.3
16.8
25.4
June
230.2
65
34.4
29.4
27.1
July
630.7
86
30.5
22.6
25.1
August
627.4
89
29.7
22.3
25.3

TIPE - WHEN PLANTING FOR THE FIRST TIME

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Dig holes or beds wide, not deep

Lightly amend heavy clay or sandy soils with organic matter.
Gently remove plants from containers, keeping the root ball intact.
Loosen potting soil and roots around the bottom and edges of the
root ball.
Plant level with surrounding soil, spreading roots outward.
Fill the lightly amended native soil around roots.
Apply water to settle the soil around the roots.
Cover the area with leaf or bark mulch 2-4 cm thick. Ensure to
keep the plants stem/trunk uncovered.
Water sufficiently.

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GARDEN ACTIVITIES

JANUARY
FRUITS: A month of frosts and chilly weather. Great care has to
be taken for the protection of young saplings of fruit trees like
litchi, mango, papya, chikoo, custard apple etc. by covering them
with a thick thatch of hay and their basins should be watered.
Pruning of peach, plum, pear trees and grape vine should be
done.
After pruning the plants should be sprayed with Rogor,
Fenvelrate, Cyphermitherin or CCP 20 as applicable to protect
them from hibernating insects.
Cuttings of deciduous fruit plants (plants which shed their leaves
in winter) should be placed in prepared small beds in sunny place
and kept moist with frequent watering.
GRAPES: Both plants and cutting can be planted.
MANGO: The treatment for mealy-bug should be undertaken. The
lower trunk of the trees should be sprayed with CPP (1:20) or
Phorate and then covered with a PVC film and tied firmly at the
top and the bottom. This PVC films width should be 3 to 4 feet
and should be buried at-least 6 to 7 inches in the earth. Spray
Devicol or Nuvan as soon as you notice any mealy-bug activity.
Cut all branches or twigs which are touching the building.

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VEGETABLES: Seedlings of Spring Onions should be transplanted

in well prepared beds in rows 6-9 inches apart at a distance of 46 inches from plant to plant and irrigation withheld for one week
at-least for better root formation.

Seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum and Tomatoes sown in October

should be transplanted. Spring Potatoes should be sown in well
manure beds. Cut pieces of large size potatoes bearing 1 to 2
buds should be used.
BORIC ACID AS PEST CONTROL
Boric (Boric Acid) the innocent white powder comes in an odorless colorless powder form,
which can be dissolved in water. It is used in the household as an antiseptic.
It is also an excellent product for the control of pests like cockroaches, and small ants.
When an insect consumes boric acid, it poisons the stomach and affects the insects
metabolism. The powder is also abrasive, further affecting the exoskeleton of the insect.
How to use it:
To make your own boric acid ant traps, mix about 1 teaspoon boric acid, with 10 teaspoons
sugar and 2 cups of water. Next, spread the mixture on cardboard or dip cotton balls in it till
they absorb the liquid. Place these near the source from where the ants and cockroaches
enter your house. The ants and the cockroaches will take it to their hives/resting place.
Here the others ants and cockroaches will also eat it. The whole colony will be destroyed in
about a weeks time.
Place these regularly for a week or two and you will observe that they no longer return to
your home.

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Winter vegetables like Radish, Turnip, Carrot, Beat Root, Brinjals,

Dwarf Beans, Peas, Spinach, Soya, Salad etc. should be sown to
maintain supplies till April.
Apply manure to all fruit trees, ornamental plants and the winter
annuals already planted.

TIPS - Rhizomes
1. Plant rhizomes shallow.
2. Tops of iris rhizomes should remain partly
showing above the soil, with no mulch.

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FLOWERS ROSES: If roses are pruned in September the flush of

flowers will last till end December.
Thereafter, two maintenance feeds of 25 gm of fertiliser (rose
mixture) should be applied one each in the first week of January.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: After the plants have flowered in October to
December/January, the branches of the plants should be cut
down to 6 to 9 inches. These plants are called Stools (Mother
Plants) and should be allowed to rest for about two months till
mid February, when suckers start emerging from the mother
plants.
INDOOR PLANTS: These plants must be exposed to the sun and
manure applied.
SHRUBS: Plant cuttings of various shrubs like Chandni,
Bougainvillea and Rat Ki Rani etc.

HEDGES: Old damaged hedges should be repaired by planting

cuttings of these hedge plants in gaps 6 inches apart crosswise
and watered regularly.
LAWNS: Sprinkle water on the grass early in the morning as this
prevents the dew or frost to damage the grass. In the third week

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of January apply Urea or CAN and flood the same immediately.

During the last week of January mow the lawn.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Sarson, Amla, Guva, Turnip, Cauliflower,
Carrot, Kenew, Gulgul, Orange, Mausaumi and Peas are available
at the cheapest rates and in abundance. These can all be
preserved now.

TIPS - Hanging Basket

1. Fill basket with prepared potting soil.
2. Leave a small amount of space at the top to allow for easier
watering.
3. Make holes in potting soil for new plants.
4. Prepare plants by loosening any tangled roots.
5. Plant in potting soil, allowing cascading plants to hang over pot
rim.
6. Tuck plants into sides of hanging baskets made of sphagnum
moss.
7. If slow-release plant food is used, sprinkle a small amount over
the top of potting soil.
8. Water to settle soil around plant roots.
NOTE: Soil-moistening crystals may be included in the potting mix to
retain moisture for longer periods between watering.

Happiness Garden
"Count the garden by the flowers, never by the
leaves that fall. Count your life with smiles and
not the tears that roll."

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FEBRUARY
FRUITS: Young seedlings of Litchi, Mango, Chikoo, Papaya etc
should be kept covered with rough thatches keeping south west
side open to allow sun and air to protect them from frost and cold
winds.
On frosty nights light irrigation may be given to the young fruit
saplings.
Manure should be applied to all fruit trees according to the age
and size of the plants followed by watering.
All fruit plants specially those of Peach, Plum, Pear and all Citrus
fruit trees should be planted in the previously dug pits before
flowering sets in. In case of evergreen plants protect them from
frost by covering with a thatch.
GRAPES: Grape vines should be pruned by cutting back last
year's shoots, leaving 2-3 buds for new growth of fruit bearing
shoots. Soil around the roots of the vine should be dug 9-10
inches deep and left exposed to weather for a week or more and
all fibrous hair-like roots should be removed, after which compost
mixed with CAN should be applied and covered with the soil,
followed by light irrigation.
VEGETABLES: Seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum, Tomato and
Brinjals sown in October should be transplanted in beds if not
done in January.

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Well manure beds should be made for sowing early crop of

summer vegetables like Khira, Kerala, Chapan Kadu, Loki, and
Kakri etc. at the end of the month for early supply of these
vegetables.

Hoeing should be done to the crop of Potato and Spring Onion.

FLOWERS ROSES: Same as in January.

TIPS - Cuttings
1. Prepare garden soil or pots of potting soil, and
moisten before planting.
2. Stick rooted or uprooted cuttings into the moist
soil. Cover the soil surface with mulch to keep
soil moist and cool
3. Keep moist, not wet, for several weeks until
cuttings root into new soil.
NOTE: Some annual cuttings root readily from stem
cuttings stuck in moist potting soil. Some annuals,
including coleus and tomatoes, root readily from
stem cuttings in water.

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SUMMER SEASON FLOWERS: Seeds of early summer flowering

annuals may be sown in the last week of this month to raise
seedlings of Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Celosia,
Zinnia, Gallardia, Golden-rod etc. Bulbs of Football Lilly,
Caladium, and Amaryllis may be planted.

FOLIAGE PLANTS: There is little growth in foliage plants.

Watering should be done with a gap of 7-8 days and excess
watering should be avoided. Varieties of foliage plants like
Crotons, Money Plant, and Philodendron should be protected from
frost and cold winds.
INDOOR PLANTS: Transplanting can be done from the last week
of February. Liquid manure may be given to all the plants
including palms.

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SHRUBS: Cuttings of ornamental shrubs, Bougainvillea, Climbers

and Hedge Plants may be planted if not done already, without
any delay in well manure beds and kept moist with frequent light
irrigation.
HEDGES: Old damaged hedges should be renovated by planting
cuttings of these very hedges in the gaps 6 inches apart crosswise and irrigated frequently.
LAWNS: Since the nights are still cool, give another dose of Urea
or CAN to the lawn preferably in the first week of this month.
Keep on mowing the lawn as soon as it is thick and tall enough.
Patchy lawns should be renovated by digging them up and
manure added before planting fresh runners in the last week of
the month and frequently watered.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Sarson, Alma, Guava, Turnip, Carrot,
Cauliflower, Kinnow, Orange, Gulgul, Mausamui, Peas, Lemon,
China Orange are available and can be all preserved.

Watering
1. Once established, these plants are usually drought
hardy and rarely need heavy watering.
2. Too much water can cause foliage problems or root
diseases.
3. Water only occasionally, when they have begun to
dry out.
4. Water slowly and deeply, not frequently.
5. When possible, water in the morning to keep foliage
from remaining wet for too long.

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MARCH
FRUITS: With the change of weather all thatch covers over the
young plants must be removed. Land around them should be dug
up after adding manure and irrigated after making deep basins.
Lime washing of lower 3 feet of the main trunks of the Litchi and
Mango trees should be done to protect them from sunburn, attack
of insects and fungal pests.
Mango trees on flowering should be sprayed with Malathion to
control the mango hopper pests. Peach and almond tress should
be sprayed with Roger or CPP 20 or Fenvelrate and Nicotine
sulphate or Malathion as soon as the fruit have set and are of pea
grain size.
VEGETABLES Small beds and shallow pits should be made and
manure added in the soil for sowing seeds of summer vegetables
like Bhindi, Beans, Khera, Louki, Pumpkins etc. Bhimdi, Chilies,
Capsicum, tomato, brinjal and beans may be sown in flat beds
and the rest in shallow pits.
Spring Onions and Garlic beds should be hoed after spreading
manure and irrigated immediately.

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Ginger, Haldi, Arbi and Zimikind, should be covered with thick

layer of dry leaves about 6 inches deep to protect the tubers from
heat and to preserve moisture air in the soil.

FLOWERS
ROSES: No change.
Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Celosia, Zinnia,
Gamphorena, Gallardia, Golden-rod etc. should be planted if not
already done.
Bulbs of Football Lilly, Caladium, Amartllis may be planted.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: A small sucker is planted in 3 inch pot in
the first week of March or it is planted in rich soil in 9 inch to 10
inch pot or in a well-manure bed at a distance of 18 inches.

LAWN: Give sterameal to grass, 1 kg sterameal for a lawn of

12x12 feet size. Again be on the lookout for weeds. Digging bare
patches, adding manure and planting fresh runners of the grass

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should be undertaken to renovate the patchy lawn. These should

be kept wet by frequent watering.
INDOOR PLANTS: Manure and put them in shady place. Give
liquid manure in the first week of March.
FOOD PRESERVATION Cauliflower, Tomato, Turnip, Carrot, Peas,
Oranges, Papaya, Ginger and Lemon are all available and can be
preserved.
GENERAL Planting of new trees, climbers, shrubs and hedges may
be completed in the first fortnight. Seeds of the hedges and trees
can be sown now. Seed collection of flowering annuals may be
done. Care should be taken that seeds are properly dried and
labeled.
Seeds of the summer glowering annuals should be sown in the
nursery during the second fortnight of the month.

Fertilisation
Most plants need a regular "diet" of all-purpose plant food, either
specialty (labeled for your specific plant type) or a generic N-P-K
(nitrogen - phosphorus potassium).
1. Fertilise early in the plant's growing cycle - spring for
summer plants, fall for winter plants.
2. For leafy plants, use a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen
content (first number).
3. For flowering or fruiting plants, use a fertiliser higher in
phosphorous content (middle number).

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APRIL
FRUITS: All litchis, mango and other fruit trees should be
provided with deep basins for irrigation during the hot summers.
These basins should be filled with dry leaves after leaving a
mound of soil around the trunk of the trees. Lime washing of the
trunk up-to three feet from the ground should be applied to all
the fruit trees to protect them from sunburn and attack of insects
and fungal pests.
Mango trees in flowers should be sprayed with Malathion to
control mango hopper pests.
Seeds from selected papaya fruits should be sown in small 4 inch
pots after rubbing them with dry ashes to remove the mucilage to
induce quicker germination. Seedlings would be ready for
transplantation in August-September and will start fruiting in the
coming winter.
VEGETABLES: Clear the winter vegetable beds and prepare them
for the next season.
Seedling of Chilies, Capsicum, Brinjal and tomato should be
transplanted in small manageable beds if not already done.
Ginger and Haldi should be sown on ridges 2-3 inches depend
covered with 9-8 inches deep layer of dry leaves to protect them
from the heat and preserve moisture in the soil.

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Seeds of all summer vegetables like Bhindi, Beans, Khera, Louki,

Torai should be sown in small manageable plots with adequate
and assured water supply.

Spring crop of Onions should be hoed after irrigation and green

stems trampled down with feet to induce larger bulbs.
FLOWERS: Winter season flowers which have stopped flowering
should be cleaned and the beds should be prepared for summer
season.
Seedlings of summer flowers like Portulaca, Amaranthus, Dahlia,
Sunflowe, Cineria, Gompherena etc. should be transplanted. This
is the best time for flowering Cannas.

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Seed collection of the late winter flowers can be done. Damaged

areas in the Shrubs can be filled up.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: The plants should be transplanted from the
3 inch pots to the 9 or 10 inch pots.
FOLIAGE PLANTS: In the foliage plants the growth will be
resumed. Therefore, these should be kept in the shade to avoid
direct sun. Propagation by seed, division, and cutting can be done
in the first fortnight.
LAWNS: Give another dose of sterameal with neemkhali. For a
lawn 12x12 feet one kg each should be applied.
SEED COLLECTION: Continue seed collection as in March.
INDOOR PLANTS: Save them from direct sun.
FOOD PRESERVATION: China Orange, Mangoes, Jackfruit and
Pumpkins are available and can be preserved.

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MAY
FRUITS: Deep basins dug around Litchi and Mango trees should
be watered and covered with dry leaves to make mulch. Lime
washing applied to the lower part of the trunk up-to 3 feet to
avoid splitting of the trunk bark by sunburn and safeguard them
against insect and fungal attack.
VEGETABLES: Transplanting of seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum,
Brinjals, Tomatoes, Ginger, Turmeric, Arvi and Zimikund should
be planted and covered with 4-6 inches of thick layer of dry
leaves to conserve moisture and protect them from the heat.
Land should be prepared for sowing Soya Bean in June and
manure applied to the soil.
Prepare land for sowing rainy season vegetables like Pusa Sawni
Bhindi, Karela, Louki, Cowpeas, Beans and Chachinda etc. Early
summer vegetables like Karela, Khira, Louki and Torai etc. should
be trained on wooden supports.
Garlic sown in October should be dug out, tied with strings and
hung. Spring Onion crop should be irrigated, hoed and trampled
upon by feet to retard excessive leafy growth and to induce large
and firm bulbs on onions.

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FLOWERS SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS: Transplanting of

Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Gompherena and
Sunflower etc. should be done early.

Seeds of Balsam, Zinnia, Petunia, Carnation etc. may be sown in

flower pots to raise seedlings of these rainy season flowers.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS:
Suckers planted in beds or 9-10 inch pots, should be now about
6-8 inch tall, their top 1 inch should be cut off with a pair of
scissors.

BULBS: Tuberose, Lilly and Cannas bulbs should be planted now.

LAWNS: Regular watering is must. In case you wish to have a
new lawn, than start digging the lawn up to one foot deep during
the last week of the month.
INDOOR PLANTS: Save them from direct sun. Mulching with grass
or dry leaves or moss-grass can be done to retain moisture.

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JUNE
FRUITS: Pits of 3 X 3 feet should be dug for planting fruit trees of
Litchi, Mango, and Citrus etc. next month. These pits should be
filled up with farmyard manure mixed with top 9" of the soil from
these very pits.
VEGETABLES: Land should be prepared for sowing seeds of Soya
Beans with the advent pre-monsoon showers. Planting of Ginger,
Haldi, Arvi etc. should be completed without any further delay if
not done already. Seeds of rainy season vegetables should be
sown taking advantage of the pre-monsoon showers. Maize is
also planted during this month.
Supports should be provided to the creepers already growing in
your garden. Transplanting of seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum,
Brinjals etc. should be done if not done so far.
FLOWERS Seedlings of rainy flowers should be planted as the
seedlings are ready.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS:
Cut the tip ends again. If stakes are required use bamboo slits to
enable the plants stand upright.
PREPERATION OF SOIL MIXTURE FOR POTS: Prepare mixture of 2
parts garden soil, 2 parts well rotten cow dung manure and 1 part
sand. Take 10 pots of above soil mixture; add ten teaspoons of

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slaked lime/marble powder and ten teaspoons of charcoal

granules.
Mix well and fill your pots, after covering properly the bottom
hole of the pot with crocks i.e. broken pieces of pots. This will
ensure good drainage and prevent water logging.
Now to each pot add one level teaspoon of Agromin and one
tablespoon of Single Superphosphate. Mix well and water and
turn the soil. The pots are now ready to receive the plants in
July/August.
LAWNS: The soil which was dug up in the last week of May should
be turned inside and outside 2-3 times so that the roots of weeds
and any other ant-holes etc. are exposed to the sun and
destroyed by the heat. Keep the earth exposed for about two to
three weeks. Then sprinkle some sand on the topsoil along with
some slaked lime. Let the earth dry out and then level the ground
for planting of the grass.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Mangoes, Peaches, Bael, Litchi, Phalsa,
Plum, Cherry, Karonda, Jackfruit and Petha are available and can
be preserved.
TIPS - Transplanting to Another Pot
Most tropical or other "indoors" or patio plants kept in pots
need transplanting from time to time.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

When their roots get too tight ("potbound").

When they get top heavy and need larger pots.
When spreading plants get too thick and need dividing.
Remove old, faded, diseased, or cluttered leaves and
stems.
Carefully remove from container.
Loosen old potting soil and tangled roots.
Plant in slightly larger pot (if needed) with a little extra
space for mulch and water.
Lightly fertilise.
Mulch surface of potting soil to prevent crusting after
watering.

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JULY
FRUITS: Top priority should be to drain off the rainwater during
the rainy season to avoid water logging.
Dry leaves ad turfs of Litchi trees after plucking of the fruit should
be filled in the basins around the trees and covered with a thick
layer of earth (2-3 feet).
For planting of Litchi, Mango, Guava, Citrus and other fruit
saplings, the previously dug pits should be utilised and after
planting raised basins should be made.
VEGETABLES: Sowing of rainy season vegetables like Bhindi,
Kerala, Khira, Louki, Prtha, Pumpkins, Cowpea, Soya, Lobia and
Asparagus bean should be sown if not already done.
Ginger, Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up as soon as the
young shoots come up and are 6-8 inches high. Hoeing, weeding
and general cleaning of vegetable beds should be done at regular
intervals.
FLOWERS: Rainy season flowers like Zinnia, Balsam, Coleus,
Kochia, Dahlia, Sunflower, etc. should be transplanted
immediately. Cutting of hedge plants, ornamental bushes and
creepers may be planted after the rains set in fully.

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CHRYASANTHEMUMS: In the first week of July 4 inch long tip

cuttings should be taken from the top branches of stock plants
and planted in previously sterlised sand.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out after digging and leveling and
runners of the grass of your choice should be planted closely.

SUCCULENTS AND CACTUS: Keep them away from the rains.

FOOD PRESERVATION: Mangoes, Peaches, Bael, Litchi, Phalsa,
Plum, Cherry, Karonda, Jackfruit and Beat are available and can
be preserved.

TIPS - Flats with Dividers

1. Prepare soil by digging deeply and adding organic
amendments as needed.
2. Carefully remove individual plant containers from the flat, or
separate plants whose roots have grown together; cut as few
as possible to separate.
3. Gently remove plants from containers; tear or cut side where
roots grow out of drainage holes. Plant in prepared soil level
with the soil around the plan
4. Cover the soil with mulch to protect from sun and packing
rain.
5. Water deeply to settle soil around roots.

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AUGUST
FRUITS: Top priority should be to drain off the rainwater during
the rainy season to avoid water logging. Sapling of Litchi, Mango,
Guava, Citrus and other fruit saplings, should in their permanent
sites in the previously dug pits and filled with manures and top
soil from the pits.
A little Phorate should be added to eradicate attack of white ants
and other pests.
VEGETABLES: Ginger, Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up after
removing weeds growing in these. Sweet potato are grown from
sprouts produced from the tubers and from cuttings and should
be planted on high ridges. Celery is sown in July/August. It is
highly nutritive.

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FLOWERS: Early sowing of flower seeds like Salvia, Aster, Phlox,

Petunia and Marigold can be done. Early variety of Gladiola may
be put in beds. Hoeing, weeding and general cleaning can be
done of all the flower beds regularly.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Each rooted cutting can be potted straight
into 9 or 10 inches pots in the first week of August. Keep the pot
in full shade for 7 days and then in partial shade for another 7
days.
Thereafter keep it in a sunny location. Protect these from heavy
rains.
SUPPLEMENTARY FEEDING: Dissolve two teaspoons each of Urea
and Potash in 10 Liters of water. Add two cups of this to each Pot.
Thereafter water the plant. This application should be continued
till end of September, once in 15 days.
PEST PROTECTION: Spray either of the following mixture till the
flowers bloom every fortnight. To WATER 10 Liters add 10 Liters
METACID and10 ml NUVAN OR10 ml METASYSTOX and10 Liters
DIMECRON .
POINTS FOR SMALL FLOWERED PLANTS: When the plant is 5-6
inches tall pinch the top 1/2 inch to encourage branches. When
the branches are about 3 inch long again pinch. Continue the
process till end of September to obtain a large head of flowers. A
cage of three to four split bamboo canes should be provided till
the middle of August.
SPECIAL POINTS FOR LARGE FLOWERED PLANTS: These types
are grown to take 1-4 flowers per plant. By middle of August,
provide 2-3 feet long split bamboo stakes as it grows.

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In the beginning of September lateral branches will appear in leaf

axils, remove them as soon as hand able by turning to one side.
It is easy because the branch is brittle in the beginning. At the
end of each branch, 3 flower buds will appear. Keep the healthy
one and remove the others when easy to handle.
INDOOR PLANTS: Put out all the indoor plants in the rain (water
logging should be avoided).
HEDGES: Cutting of hedge plants, climbers and other ornamental
plant should be planted, also seeds of quick growing hedges like
Jainter, Aliar or Inga Dulcis, may be sown for making hedges.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out after digging and leveling and
runners of the grass of your choice should be planted closely.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Jamun, Plum, Karonda, Apple, Mangoes,
Lemon,Grapes and Peaches.

Cuttings
1. Prepare garden soil or pots of potting soil, and moisten before
planting.
2. Stick rooted or uprooted cuttings into the moist soil. Cover the
soil surface with mulch to keep soil moist and cool
3. Keep moist, not wet, for several weeks until cuttings root into
new soil.

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SEPTEMBER
FRUITS: Sapling of Litchi, Mango, Guava, Citrus and other fruit
saplings, should be planted in their permanent sites immediately
if not done so.
Basins around the Litchi and Mango trees, filled up earlier, should
be made by digging in the decayed leaves etc. and a mixture of
chemical manure (NPK) should be added in the still lightly moist
soil and mixed properly. All the dead, dry, damaged or out of
place and diseased branches of all the fruit trees should be
removed and to give proper shape and ventilation and sunlight to
them.
VEGETABLES: Land should be prepared after adding manure for
sowing whole tubers of potatoes for early winter crop. Ginger,
Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up after removing weeds
growing in these.

P a g e | 29

Seeds of early dwarf Peas, French Beans, Radish, Turnip, Beet

Root, Methi, Palak, Dhania and bulbs of Onion and Garlic
segments may be sown towards the end of the month for early
supply of these.

Seedlings of Cauliflower, Cabbage, Tomato, Brinjals and Lettuce

should be transplanted for early supply. Celery is sown in
July/August. It is highly nutritive. Sprouting Broccoli, Brussels
sprouts, Parsley and Leak should be sown by end September.
These vegetables are a rich source of Vitamin A, B1, B2 and C.

P a g e | 30

FLOWERS: Aster, Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera,

Holy Hock, Larkspur,Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy,

P a g e | 31

Salvia, Stock, Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena

should be sown in small beds for raising their seedlings.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Same as in August.
ROSES: It has been observed that in Northern India, new growth
begins by middle of September. At that time sap begins to rise.
Therefore, the right time for pruning is third week of September.
PRUNING HINTS: The following steps should be the guiding factor
for a good prune: 1. Remove all dead and dry stems and dry
portion of partly healthy stems. 2. Cut off weak thin twigs. 3. Cut
of branches growing inwards, i.e. towards the centre of the bush.
The center will open up. 4. Select five to six healthy canes for
retention and remove all the others. 5. Shorten the remaining
canes to 15-18 inches above the scion. While pruning the canes,
the cut should be made 1/2 inch above the outward looking eye.
6.After pruning, the practice of drenching all branches and cut
ends with spray of mixture of a contact and systemic insecticide
in the following proportion should be undertaken: To 10 Liters
WATER add 10 Liters METACID and 10 ml NUVAN , OR 10 ml
METASYSTOX and10 Liters DIMECRON. The effect lasts for 2-3
weeks after spraying.
After the pruning an application of cow-dung 50 gm, NPK mixture
2 heaped tablespoons and Agromin 1 heaped tablespoon should
be given to each plant.
HEDGES: Cutting of hedge plants, climbers and other ornamental
plant should be immediately planted, if not done so.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out immediately without any
further delay. Weeding should be carried out effectively.

P a g e | 32

FOOD PRESERVATION: Jamun, Plum, Karonda, Apple, Mangoes,

Lemon, Grapes and Peaches are available.

Seeds
1. Prepare seedbed, adding any amendments (if
needed), or fill pots or flats with potting soil.
2. Sow small seed directly onto soil surface, and rake
lightly to make sure seed are in direct contact with
soil.
3. Large seed should be buried two or three times their
diameter.
4. Lightly cover the seeded area with mulch to reduce
soil compaction in sun and rain.
5. Water shallow seed lightly and frequently until they
sprout.
6. Water deeper seeds slowly and deeply, but do not
keep wet or they can rot.
7. When seeds sprout, encourage deep roots by
gradually reducing watering frequency and increasing
the amount, to get it down deep around and below
roots while letting soil surface dry between soakings.
NOTE: Most seeds require warm (room temperature or
higher) temperatures to germinate.
When seedlings emerge, thin extras to allow full light around
seedlings; some may be transplanted to larger pots or the
garden. When transplanting, hold small plants by leaves to
avoid damage to tender stems.

P a g e | 33

OCTOBER
FRUITS: Manure mixture of NPK in the ratio of 1:2:1 should be
applied and dug in the basins when the soil is moist. Basins
around Litchi and Mango trees should be remade and manure
should be applied in adequate quantity.
All dead, dry and out of place branches of Litchi, Mango and
Guava trees should be removed to allow full sunshine and air to
give proper shape to these.
VEGETABLES: After cleaning up the garden of all weeds and
grasses, land should be dug and exposed to the sun for 2-3 days.
Manure applied to the beds for sowing winter vegetables viz.
Peas, Beans, Radish, Turnip, Beet Root, Methi, Palak,
Dhania,Brinjals, Cabbage, Cauliflowers, Knol Kol, and Lettuce etc.
Bulbs of Onion and Garlic Cloves should be planted preferably on
well manure ridges. Seedlings of Cauliflower, Cabbage, Knoll
Kole, Brinjala, and Tomato should be transplanted in well manure
beds or ridges.
Seeds of Chilies, Capsicum and Tomato may also be sown to be
transplanted in January for fruiting in April.
Ginger and Turmeric ridges should be earthed up heavily after
removing weeds etc. Whole potato tubers 1/2 inch diameter
approximately should be planted preferably on well manure
ridges.

P a g e | 34

FLOWERS: Transplant all the ready seedlings. For late flowering

sow Aster, Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera, Holy
Hock, Larkspur, Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy, Salvia,
Stock, Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena.
Seeds of Sweet Peas should be sown in well manure and deeply
dug trenches or beds and young seedlings on sprouting may be
covered with wire netting or thorny bushes to protect them from
damage by birds.
Put in the Hedges and the Evergreen Dahlia Cuttings. Multi
coloured Gladiolus, Narcissus and Iris bulbs can be planted.

ROSES: Roses dug out of ground with earth ball should be

planted after mid October.
LAWNS: Give Urea or CAN to grass and immediately flood it.

P a g e | 35

NOVEMBER
FRUITS: Young fruit saplings of Litchi, Mango, Papaya, Chikoo etc
should be protected from frost and cold by covering these with
rough thatches keeping the south-west side open to allow air and
sunshine.
Pruning of Peach, Plum and Pear trees should be done as soon as
all their leaves shed.
Manure should be applied to all the fruit trees after making wide
basins.
A mixture of NPK in the ratio of 1:2:1 should be applied as per
the age chart followed by watering.
After pruning, these trees should be sprayed with Malathion to
protect them from the hibernating of pests.
VEGETABLES: Winter vegetables viz. Peas, Beans, Radish, Turnip,
Beet Root, Methi, Palak, Dhania, Brinjals, Cabbage, Cauliflowers,
Knoll Kole, and Lettuce etc. should be sown in small beds at
intervals of 15 days to ensure uninterrupted supply of these.
Transplanting of seedlings sown earlier can be done. Bulbs of
Onion and Garlic Cloves should be planted without further delay.
Seeds of Onion should be sown in small raised beds in the
nursery to raise seedlings of main spring crop of dry bulbs.

P a g e | 36

Ginger and Turmeric may be dug out after their leaves have dried
up.
These should then be washed and dried up for storing in a well
aired store. Seedling of late Cauliflower, Cabbage, Knoll Kole and
Lettuce should be transplanted on well-manure ridges or flat
beds.
FLOWERS: Seedling can be transplanted. Narcissus and Gladiolus
bulbs can be grown in this month.
Transplant all the ready seedlings. For late flowering sow Aster,
Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera, Holy Hock,
Larkspur, Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy, Salvia, Stock,
Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena.
Sweet Peas and plants already planted should be given support
after pinching their upper parts to induce side shoots and prevent
their growing too tall.
ROSES: Roses dug out of ground with earth ball should be
planted from the first week of November to end January. While
planting a rose the bud should be kept 3-4 inches above the
ground level and the un-sprouted side of the bud should be kept
pointed towards the east/south.
Roses do well in any type of garden soil, sandy or clay, but not
chalky provided it is well drained. There should not be any water
logging in rose beds.
An ideal pit for planting roses should be 1.5 feet in diameter and
1.5 feet deep. The soil dug out of the pit for planting roses should

P a g e | 37

be mixed with a tasla of well rotten cow-dung manure and 250

gm of bone meal.
About 50 Gm of 10 % Phorate should also be added to the soil.
After mixing, the pit should be filled with the mixture and the
remaining soil should be piled up on the pit.
Then after making a circular ridge the pit should be watered. The
depression caused by sinking of soil should be filled up. If this is
done 2-3 times, it will ensure that the soil will not sink any more.
The pit is then ready to receive the plant.
Planting Distance:
H.T. AND F.B. ROSES 3 - 3.5 feet
Miniature and Polyantha roses 2.5 feet Climbers and shrub roses
6 feet
Container grow roses can be planted anytime of the year. Even
then, the 2 very hot months of May and June should be avoided.
LAWNS: Give stearmeal to your lawn.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Cauliflower, Tomato, Turnip, Carrots,
Sarson, Amla, Gauva, Ginger and Apple are available.

P a g e | 38

DECEMBER
FRUITS: This is the hibernating month and the trees should not
be disturbed.
VEGETABLES: Seeds of Onion, Lettuce and Tomato should be
transplanted.
FLOWERS CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Cut off the stem after flowering
and set aside the plants. Protect them from water logging and
frost.
INDOOR PLANTS: No manure and transplanting required.
LAWNS: Give Urea mixed with Neem Cake and water it.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Peas, Oranges, Mosumai, Sarson, Amla,
Gauva and Ginger are available.

P a g e | 39

LAWNS - FERTILISER APPLICATION:

Early fall is the most important time of year to fertilize your lawn.
Early in the morning when the dew is heavy. The dew means
you'll leave tracks walking across the lawn and it'll be easier to
see where you've been. Also, there is less wind and the fertilizer
is less likely to blow around.
Early fall is the most important time of year to fertilize your lawn.
Think of the early fall lawn feeding as the big dinner. Spring is
breakfast for the lawn and late spring is a light mid-morning
snack. Lunch is usually eaten in late summer.
N-P-K
Nitrogen: (N) Boosts growth and green color of turf
Phosphorous: (P) Feeds grass seedlings and turf root
development
Potassium: (K) Strengthens a lawn's resistance to drought and
disease
N (nitrogen): Nitrogen produces "green and growth" in your lawn.
This is the major ingredient in most grass fertilizers, but applying
to much nitrogen can burn your lawn. Fertilizers containing slowrelease nitrogen can prevent this hazard, but your lawn will take
more time to "green up."

P a g e | 40

P (phosphorous/phosphate): This chemical builds strong roots

and promotes disease resistance. This is helpful for lawns
susceptible to diseases.
K (potassium/potash): Potassium promotes overall plant strength
and promotes drought resistance.
The rates are based on a 3-1-2 (N-P-K) maintenance ratio.
The recommended rate is 2.25 kg of actual nitrogen per 1,000
square feet for the growing season. Lets suppose you wanted to
use urea (46 percent strength nitrogen) as the fertilizer material.
It is easy to calculate the amount of urea needed to supply a total
of 2.25 kg of actual nitrogen by using the formula:
(2.25 46) x 100 = 4.89 kg (5 kg rounded off) urea.
The recommended rate is 1 kg of actual phosphate per 1,000
square feet for the growing season. Lets suppose you wanted to
use SSP (16 percent strength P2O5) as the fertilizer material. It
is easy to calculate the amount of urea needed to supply a total
of 1 kg of actual phosphate by using the formula:
(1 16) x 100 = 6.25 kg (7 kg rounded off) SSP.
The recommended rate is 2 kg of actual potash per 1,000 square
feet for the growing season. Lets suppose you wanted to use
K2O (60 percent strength K2O) as the fertilizer material. It is
easy to calculate the amount of urea needed to supply a total of 2
kg of actual phosphate by using the formula:
(2 60) x 100 = 3.33 kg (4 kg rounded off) K2O.

P a g e | 41

Therefore, nearly 5 kg urea (46 percent strength nitrogen), 7 kg

Superphosphate (16 percent P2O5) and 4 kg Potash (60 percent
K2O) will be needed to supply the required per 1,000 square feet
of lawn area for the entire growing season.
This 5 +7+4 = 16 kg of total fertilizer should be split into six
equal applications as suggested below:
Apr. 1, May 1, June 1, July 1, Aug. 1 and Sept. 1
Note: Per application you will need:
Urea 800 gm
Superhhosphate 1000 gm
Potash 700 gm
Note: After the application spray water on the grass as this
will help the soil absorb the nutrients. Watering in the
fertilizer washes the nutrients into the soil where lawn
roots can use them and where they wont be washed away
by a heavy rain. Watering also gets the fertilizer off the
leaves which may cause burning. A dry lawn is more likely
to burn than a wet one.
Fertiliser application method:
Applying dry fertilizers evenly by hand is a bit difficult. The best
way is to use a fertilizer broadcasting drum or spreader. If you
have no other option, apply the fertilizer very carefully and only
on small lawns. Wear gloves and walk backwards across the lawn
as you throw the fertilizer as evenly as possible with a sweeping
motion.
Sweep up any fertilizer that spills.
Spread fertilizer over the edges of the lawn first.

P a g e | 42

Move at your normal walking speed. Then move back and forth
between the edges. To avoid missing strips, make sure to overlap
the path of the wheels when using a drop spreader. You should
have a little overlap at the edges of broadcast spreaders.
Then broadcast the fertilizers while walking up and down the lawn
as shown in the following figures:

Sod/Lawns
Sod can be laid nearly any time the soil is workable.
1. Purchase healthy sod, timing delivery for when it is time to plant
(avoid leaving stacked in hot sun).
2. Prepare soil by removing stones, sticks, and other obstructions.
3. Lightly rake or till soil surface.
4. Lay sod.
5. Solid sod should be laid in alternating rows to reduce long seams
between rows.
6. "Checkerboard" pieces of sod should be planted, not simply laid on
top of the ground; or fill between with fresh soil.
7. Roll freshly-laid sod with a rented roller, or walk on it, to ensure solid
contact with soil underneath.
8. Water deeply, and keep moist, not wet, until sod begins to root into
soil underneath.

P a g e | 43

PLANT PROPAGATION METHODS

Plants can be propagated by two methods, namely - sexual and
asexual.
Sexual Propagation: Seed formation takes place only after
pollination. After fertilization, seeds are formed. Seeds when
sown give rise to new plants. Some bisexual flowers are self
sterile, that is, pollens from a flower, when deposited on the
female part of the same flower will fail to fertilize it. In some
bisexual flowers like Salvia, pollens and female parts from the
same flower mature at different time to prevent self- pollination.
For artificial pollination for cross breeding purpose pollens from a
mature flower are collected and deposited on the receptive
stigma (female organ) of another flower. This process can give
rise to hybrid plants.
Asexual Propagation: This process is also called as vegetative
propagation. Stem cuttings, root cuttings, leaf cuttings, root
division, layering, grafting and budding are all vegetative
methods of propagation.

P a g e | 44

Stem Cuttings: Herbaceous stem cuttings of plants like Dahlia,

Mint, Portulaca etc. easily root. They do not need any special
treatment. In herbaeceous plants tender, growing and leafy
sections make better plants. Semi-hard cuttings like Schefflera,
Aralia, Philodendrons, Hibiscus can be easily rooted. Hardwood
cuttings of Bougainvillea, Ixora etc. can be rooted with good
amount of success if root promoting hormones are used. These
hormones - normally available in powder form - are applied on
the lower end of the cutting.
Roots are formed in greater number on nodes. So, when planting
a stem cutting, at least two to three nodes should be inserted in
the planting medium. In hardwood cuttings particularly, to reduce
drying through transpiration, some of the leaves should be
removed. In semi-hard and hardwood cuttings survival rate will
be much higher if cuttings are taken with a heel.

Cuttings will strike roots faster in a porous and well aerated

medium, which drains out water quickly but retains moisture for
longer periods. Sand, brick / charcoal pieces, rice husk, peat
moss or vermiculite can be used to make soil porous. Newly
planted cutting must not be kept in complete shade. If kept in
semi-shady locations, warmth of sunlight will encourages faster

P a g e | 45

rooting. Watering should be done with a sprinkler attached to a

hose or to a watering can.

Root Cuttings: Some plants like Breadfruit, Curry patta, White

Poinsettia and some Jasmines and Ixora can be propagated with
root cuttings. Roots of such plants if cut at the plant end and the
cut tip of the root if exposed to air will start growing in to a new
plant.

Leaf Cuttings : Entire leaves removed from many succulents

and kept in moist sandy medium will sprout plantlets. Echeveria,
Kalanchoe, and Sedum are such plants. Herbaceous plants like
African violets, Begonia Rex, Peperomia also can be propagated
through leaf cutting. Sansevieria, Gasteria and Drimiopsis also
can be propagated through entire leaf or by planting leaf
sections.

P a g e | 46

Root Division: Bamboo, Asparagus and Gerbera plants grow in

clumps. These clumps can be divided into sections, with each
section having some roots. The sections are then planted as
separate plants.

Air Layering: Plants which can not be propagated with any of

the above mentioned methods may respond to layering. Layering
actually is a type of stem cutting only. But the difference between
the two is that in normal stem cutting the stems are cut away
from the mother plant and then they are forced to root. In
layering, first the roots are formed on a stem of a mother plant
and only after that the stem is cut off and is planted as a new
plant. Plants grown from layering will fruit earlier than the ones
grown from seeds. Mature or semi-mature branches are selected
for layering, depending upon the species. A ring of bark, about 1
to 2 cm wide is taken out just below a node. For faster and
profuse rooting to take place, rooting hormones may be applied

P a g e | 47

on the place from where the bark has been removed. Wet
sphagnum moss in a shape of a ball is applied all around the cut
and its upper portion. The ball of moss is then is covered with a
piece of transparent polythene sheet. Using a string, the polysheet is tied firmly on to the moss ball. Keep the strings a little
loose on the upper end to facilitate occasional watering, to keep
the moss wet all the time. When a large number of roots are
formed, the rooted branch is cut away from the plant. After
removal of the poly-sheet, the branch is planted in soil. Place
such newly planted branches in semi-shaded place. If the rooted
branch has fewer roots, then it is advisable to cut the branch
gradually from the main plant to prevent the shock.

Stooping: Stooping is a type of air layering only. In this method

the branch from which the ring of bark has been removed, is bent
down and the portion of the stem from where the bark was
removed is inserted in the ground. A stone is kept on the soil to
prevent the branch from springing out of soil. After the roots are
formed, the branch is cut off from the plant end. The newly
rooted branch then is replanted.

P a g e | 48

Grafting: Mango, Chikoo and Golden Champa are available

mostly as grafted plants. These days even Cashew, Jackfruit and
Jamun plants are being successfully being grafted. Decorative
plants such as hybrid red Mussaenda and catus plants too are
available as grafts. "Stock" is a rooted plant upon which a branch
of a desired variety of the plant is grafted. The branch, which is
being grafted, is called as "scion". Grafting is done on a stock
plant, which has a very strong root system. Chikoo plant is
always grafted on a sapling of Rayan (also called as Khirni) tree.
Following are some important methods of grafting:

Wedge grafting
Side grafting
Veneer grafting
Approach grafting (inarching
Butt grafting (used for grafting cacti plants)

P a g e | 49

Budding: Budding, actually, is a type of grafting only. However,

in budding, the scion is in a section of shield-shaped skin along
with an eye (lateral auxiliary bud, not a flower bud). On the stock
a "T" shaped cut is given. The skin is opened and the bud is
inserted inside the skin. After this, the cut is covered by winding
a strip of polythene sheet, keeping only the bud exposed. The
growing tip of the stock then is severed. Growth of the grafted
bud starts within 15 days. Rose, Bougainvillea, limes and other
citrus plants, Hibiscus, Beer can be budded.

P a g e | 50

Chrysanthemums for the Home Garden

Chrysanthemums or mums are one of the most popular fall
perennials for the garden. Numerous varieties are available today
and can be selected to bloom from late summer through the
entire fall. The genus Chrysanthemum belongs to the daisy family
and consist of over 200 species including annuals, perennials and
small shrubs. Native to the Far East, chrysanthemums became a
part of Indias floriculture in the late 1800 when they were first
introduced. By the early 1900, hardier varieties were being grown
and with the introduction of the Korean hybrids, mums became
quite popular as a garden plant. These Korean hybrids became
the breeding stock for most all hardy chrysanthemum present
today.
Garden mums are vigorous clump-type plants with strong,
upright or sprawling stems which can often become woody; the
leaves are slightly aromatic. Many new varieties of
chrysanthemums are being developed each year which differ
greatly from their common ancestors in color, size and form. Most
are quite easy to grow in the garden, however, some are hardy
only in mild climates and freeze out when planted beyond their
zone of winter tolerance.
In general, chrysanthemums are short-day plants meaning that
the flowering response is triggered by the shortening days of late
summer. The requirement for short days to induce flowering can
either occur naturally outdoors in late summer or can be
controlled in a greenhouse by excluding light for 9 to 13 hours
each day and for an extended period of 8 to 12 or more weeks
depending upon the variety or mum type. This technique allows
growers to produce flowering mums and make them available any
time of year.

P a g e | 51

There are many places where hardy chrysanthemums can be

enjoyed in the garden. Because of their shallow rooting habit,
plants can be dug with a spading fork and easily moved to new
locations. This has a particular advantage because mums can be
grown for most of the season in a sunny location, then after they
have developed flower buds, moved to partially shaded border
areas where they will come into full bloom. In cooler locations like
this, the flowers are more apt to last for a longer period
compared to full sun areas.
In the fall, garden centers are selling potted mums which can be
transplanted to the garden to fill in bare spots in the flower bed.
Mums also lend themselves well to containers and hanging
baskets. This is one of the most popular ways to enjoy mums
since these containers and basket can be moved to any sunny
location around the landscape.
Although slightly more intensive in care, cascade mums present
the opportunity to create a spectacular floral display. Cascades
make up a group of mums which have a weeping or trailing habit.
These plants can be trained to grow over wire supports, up or
down fences or walls and generate a tremendous number of

P a g e | 52

blooms from a single plant.

Planting Location
Chrysanthemums require well-drained soil and full sunlight to
grow and successfully bloom. This means generally 6 hours of
sunlight or more each day during the summer period. Plants
grown with less light will become weak, spindly and produce few
flowers. Avoid locations which are exposed to street or porch
lights as this will interfere with the flowering light response to
shortened days. The best location is a southern or southeastern
exposure preferably against a foundation or wall where additional
protection is given from frost. Improve the drainage before
planting by elevating the bed with a good mix of garden loam and
compost.
Soil Preparation and Planting
Any garden soil which is good for growing vegetables will be
satisfactory for growing mums. If particularly high in clay,
additions of organic matter including peat, composted leaves,
rotted manure or straw will improve the drainage and aeration.
While working the planting bed, collect enough soil for a soil test
and follow the recommendation for amounts of fertilizer to be
added. Containerized plants should be planted at the same depth
at which they were grown. Do not bury the root ball. This will
promote a lack of root aeration and root rot caused by fungal
pathogens. Chrysanthemums are shallow rooted and do best if
planted high. This means that frequent watering may be
necessary during times of high heat and little rainfall. Space
plants generally about 18 inches apart. Spreading varieties may
require larger spacing.

P a g e | 53

Pinching
To generate a plant full of flowers and control growth,
chrysanthemum require some pinching of the tips. This
encourages branching and more compact growth. It also will
stimulate more flowers to be produced. Pinching is done by
removal of about an inch of the tip of each branch or shoot. This
is snapped out with the thumb and index finger. The first pinch
should be done when the plant is 6 to 8 inches tall and repeated
when new branches become 6 inches tall. A third pinch may be
necessary on fast-growing varieties. If plant are not properly
pinched, they will become tall, leggy, easily blown over by winds
and have few flowers.
The most important thing to keep in mind when pinching the
growth back is the timing of the last pinch. For early flowering
varieties which bloom in mid-September, the last pinch should be
around the middle of June. Varieties which flower in the early part
of October should be given a last pinch on July 1. Later flowering
varieties should be pinched for the last time no later than July 15.
Overall, about 3 months is required between the last pinch and
bloom. This is a general rule which can guide you in controlling
the growth and stimulating more bloom production.
Fertilization
Most mums will require fertilization several time during the spring
and summer to stimulate good growth, produce thick stems and
maintain a healthy green color. Chrysanthemums are not heavy
feeders like vegetables so, it is best to use a dilute fertilizer
applied several times prior to bud set. Nitrogen has the greatest
effect on flower production and general growth. If too much is
applied, vegetative growth will be hard to control, fewer flowers
will be produced and overall, flowering will occur later in the

P a g e | 54

season. Before planting a bed in the spring, about 4 pounds of 510-5 per 100 square feet can be worked into the soil to a depth
of 6 inches. This gives about one-quarter pound of nitrogen per
100 square feet and should be enough fertilizer for the season if
abundant organic matter is present. A second application around
August 1 may be beneficial especially on poorer soils. Apply about
2 tablespoons of 10-6-4 or 4 tablespoons of 5-10-5 fertilizer
spread over a 2 foot circle at the base of individual plants.
Alternatively, broadcast about 2 pounds of 5-10-5 per 100 square
feet. No more than about a tenth of a pound of nitrogen should
be applied at this time.
General Care and Maintenance
During the early part of the summer, a layer of mulch material
should be applied to the soil after it has warmed up as this has
definite advantages to conserving and regulating moisture to
these shallow-rooted plants. Besides the benefits of water
control, mulch protects the bed from erosion, compaction and
retards weed seed germination. Use a 2 to 3-inch layer of coarse
peat, leaf mold, compost, nut hulls or lawn clippings mixed with
leaves. Mulches composed of chipped wood, sawdust and straw
may consume nitrogen fertilizer and rob the root system. If you
use these materials as mulch, double the fertilizer applied to the
bed.
If you cannot control the growth of the plants to the point that
they have become tall and begin to drop over, then some support
may be necessary in the form of wire frames or upright stakes.
Wire peony or tomato frames work well and should be put in
place before they are needed, otherwise these will be more
difficult to position without damaging the plant.

P a g e | 55

After the plants have flowered, the stems should be cut off close
to the ground. Leaf, flower and stem debris should be collected
and composted provided they are not disease or insect infested.
If that is the case, the materials should be composted separately
and not used for mulching or soil improvement around the plants.
Disease or insect infested materials can be buried and left out of
the garden.
Often chrysanthemums listed in catalogs are noted as being
winter hardy meaning that the plants will over winter and grow
the following season. The term hardy has been used sometimes
inappropriately and gardeners should be cautious about believing
that all mums are winter hardy when stated so. The fact is that
many mums are not reliably hardy depending upon the climate
conditions presented and even the most hardy varieties may not
make it through a severe winter of subzero temperatures.
Many mum selections will survive the winter if the plants
gradually become frozen and remain that way until spring. Deep
snow cover will assist this and protect the frozen soil if it remains
intact throughout the winter. Unfortunately, that is not
characteristic of the conditions in the St. Louis area and plants
must be able to stand the freezing/thawing fluctuations which
typify our climate.
The best defense against adverse weather conditions is to provide
good drainage so that water does not accumulate around the
plants and promote ice formation. After the first frost, mound a
few shovels of soil forming an 8-inch layer around the base of
each plant. Cut the branches back to 10 inches above the soil line
and apply a 2 to 4-inch mulch layer as soon as the soil surface
freezes. This means loosely layering evergreen branches, straw,
or other lofty materials around the plants. Avoid using materials

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like leaves or peat moss which will pack down and retard
emergence of leafy shoots in the spring. After the last danger of
frost has past, this mulch and soil can be removed. If leafy
growth has already started and the possibility of frost is still
present, apply another layer of loose mulch to protect the growth.
As an alternative to over wintering plants in the bed, they can be
dug and placed into cold frames to better ensure survival. This
mean a little more work, but for those varieties which are more
tender, it is often the only way to keep plants from one year to
another.
Of the numerous cultivars available for home gardeners, a select
group of garden mums can be recommended having withstood
the test of time at gardens in Chandigarh, Dehra Dun and
Banglore.
Cultivar
Debonair
Stargazer
Tinkerbell
Patriot
Minngopher
Allure
Ruby Mound
Triumph
Roll Call
White Stardom
Pancho
West Point
Johnny Appleseed
Flaming Sun

Color
intense lavender
dark lavender
intense purple
white
intense red
yellow
crimson red
dark brown center,
golden petals
orange bronze
pure white
orange bronze
yellow
orange bronze
orange bronze

Type
decorative
daisy
pompom
pompom
decorative
daisy
pompom
decorative
decorative
daisy
pompom
pompom
pompom
decorative

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Some types of mums and their description is appended below:
Type
1. Irregular Incurve

2. Reflex

3. Regular Incurve

4. Decorative

5. Intermediate Incurve

6. Pompon

7. Single
8. Anemone

9. Spoon

10. Quill

11. Spider

12. Brush or Thistle

Description
Largest of mum varieties. Rather loose,
informal appearance, with lower petals
drooping. Needs to be staked. Large
blooms. Mid season - Oct.
Large durable flower. Needs to be
staked. Large to medium-large blooms.
Early season - Sept., Oct.
Football mum, a compact flower with 3-5
flowers/plant. Needs to be staked. Large
to medium-large blooms. Mid season Oct.
A flattened full bloom. A good cut flower
and garden mum. May need support.
Large to medium-large blooms. Early and
mid season - Sept., Oct.
Incurving but loose flower form, may
need support. Large to medium-large
blooms. Early and mid season - Sept.,
Oct.
Mass of small blooms. Small miniature
button to large ball shaped flower. Good
for cut flowers. Medium-large to small
blooms. Mid season - Oct.
Daisy-like spray, small flower or a few
larger blooms. Mid season - Oct.
Single-like but more pronounced center.
May need support. Large blooms or small
flowers. Mid season - Oct.
A daisy-like flower with spoon-like ends
to florets. Interesting form. Large blooms
or small flowers. Mid season - Oct.
Tubular florets like spoon but not
flattened on the ends. Large blooms or
small flowers. Mid season - Oct.
Fuji mum - the most exotic, with thin
thread-like florets, tubular ends are
coiled. Large blooms. Mid season - Oct.
Unusual, broom-shaped flower. Does not
open flat, excellent filler for
arrangements. Medium-large blooms.
Mid season - Oct .

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Propagation
There are several way to increase the number of plants that you
are growing without buying new ones; division of whole plants,
stem cuttings and planting seed.
Division
Typically, mums grown for two years can be divided by splitting
the root system of an old plant into two or more separate plants.
This is best done in the spring after the new growth is about 6 to
8 inches tall. Simply dig up the plant and examine the root
system identifying the new underground shoots that come off the
old plant. Remove each rosette consisting of the leafy growth and
a root system. Plant these back into the garden taking care not to
bury the division too far down into the soil.
Cuttings
Perhaps the best way to propagate new plants is by taking stem
cuttings. These are preferred to divisions because they often will
grow more vigorously and have less diseases. In the spring, when
plants have reached a height of 8 to 10 inches, make stem
cuttings by removing leafy tips that are 3 to 4 inches long.
Remove the basal leaves to give about 1 to 2 inches of clear stem
and plant this into a soil mix of one part peat moss and one part
sand, perlite or vermiculite. This can be done directly in the
garden or in a suitable container with good drainage. The cutting
should become rooted in about 2 to 3 weeks. The most critical
factor is moisture control. While these cutting are forming roots,
they need to be watered daily. It is often helpful to make a cover
out of plastic to prevent complete wilting. Plants should not be
placed in intense sunlight, however, should receive some sun
each day, preferably in the early morning. If a plastic cover is
used, care should be taken that the inside temperature does not
reach more than 75 degrees.

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Seeds
Seed is rarely used to propagate new mum plants. This is
because few mum varieties will actually set seed and the seed
that is produced generates plants inferior to named varieties
otherwise propagated by cuttings or divisions. On the other hand,
seed produced by hand-pollination is an important method of
obtaining new varieties. Primarily, because is much easier to
generate new plants from cuttings, seed propagation offers no
real advantage to the average home gardener.
Selected Cultivars
There are hundreds of excellent chrysanthemum varieties and the
process of selection can be challenging. Often you will hear the
words garden mum or florist mum. These terms are used to
talk about hardiness. Generally, garden mums are hardy in the
areas sold. However, florist mums are not and are produced for
use as a flowering indoor pot plant. Without extra protection,
they will be difficult to over winter outdoors. If you want to give a
flowering mum and want to plant it outside when the flowers are
past, then choose a garden mum.
How to Grow a Cascade Mum
Cascade mums are a type of chrysanthemum which trails outward
or lays over as it grows. These plants are typically grown with the
use of some kind of support like wire or fence to keep the plants
growing in a certain direction. To grow a cascade mum you must
take some special care in order to maximize the bloom
production; the results can be spectacular and very creative.
The first step in growing a cascade mum is to propagate stem
cuttings taken from container stock plants which have been
grown indoors under constant light through the fall and winter.
The light need only be a 60 watt bulb, however, this will keep

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these stock plants from initiating flower buds. It is important to

keep the plant in a vegetative state so that good stem cuttings
can be collected.
Around the first part of February, snip off 3 to 4-inch long tips of
the stems from the stock plants and insert 1 to 2 inches of the
stem into a rooting soil mix of 50 percent sand and 50 percent
peat. Keep the cutting continuously moist for about 2 to 3 weeks
until the rooting has completed. A plastic cover over the rooting
container may prevent the cutting from drying out. Transfer the
rooted cuttings to 4-inch pots and hold under continuous light for
6 more weeks and fertilize on a regular schedule with a soluble
household fertilizer. At this time the cuttings should be about 10
to 14 inches tall. Transplant 2 or 3 cuttings to a 10-inch finishing
pot with a good houseplant mix of peat and perlite.
Immediately give a soft pinch by removing 2 inches of the
terminal growth. Keep under light until about the 15th of April.
This is the point in the season that the days are long enough to
keep the plants from setting bud.
As one suggestion, construct a wire frame 5 feet long and
position the mum containers close to the base. Begin to fasten
the terminal growth to the wire by securing loosely with twist
ties. As the plants grow and for every 4 inches of growth
produced, pinch the terminal buds by removing about 2 inches of
the stem. Repeat this at intervals where new growth has reached
4 inches and reestablish the terminal shoot by selecting and tying
up laterals to the frame.
When the frame has become filled, begin to shear the plants by
removing all terminal growth and leaving 2 to 3 leaf nodes on
each terminal. Stop shearing around July 15th so that the plant

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will begin to set buds. It takes about 90 more days until the
plants will begin to bloom. This means approximately midOctober depending upon the cultivar selection.
Bud set is controlled by day length. As the days become shorter
in the later part of the summer, the flower buds will be initiated.
Any light source like street lamps or porch lights will interfere
with this flowering response so plants must be kept isolated from
these and any other light source during the night.
Once the flowers have been produced, plants can be transplanted
into the garden or cut back to be held as stock plants for the next
year. Most cascade mums are hardy and can withstand average
low temperature in our area.
Some of the best cascade mums to grow include:
Bronze Charm - bronze single type
Yellow, White or Pink Daphne - single type
Firechief - red single type
Megumi - bright yellow anemone type
Diseases
A number of diseases plague chrysanthemums. Avoiding
overcrowded and shaded conditions will help in reducing the
incidence of disease because under such conditions, moisture is
likely to remain on the leaves providing good conditions for
diseases to get started.
Septoria Leaf Spot
This leaf spot disease is caused by a fungus which attacks leaves
and produces brown to black spots. The disease will begin on the
lower leaves and move its way upward until perhaps half of the
leaves become brown and wilted. The fungus overwinters in

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debris on the soil surface. Spores produced from infested debris

splash onto new foliage in the spring and initiate new infections.
The best way to control the disease is to avoid the initial
infections by cleaning up infested debris from around the base of
the plant. If the disease shows up on the leaves, a fungicide can
be used to avoid continued infections. Fungicides labelled for leaf
spot control include benomyl (Benlate), chlorothalonil (Daconil),
zineb, maneb or mancozeb. No cultivars are resistant to this
disease.
Powdery Mildew
The same fungus which causes powdery mildew on roses, phlox
and zinnias can become established on cluysanthemums. The
best conditions for powdery mildew development are moderate to
cool temperatures and high relative humidity, but not free
moisture on leaves. Typically this disease is more prevalent
during the early to late fall when air temperatures at night are
relatively cool. The only way to control powdery mildew is to use
a fungicide sprayed every 7 to 10 days. Sulfur, benomyl
(Benlate), dinitro phenyl crotonate (Karathane), triademefon
(Bayleton) or triflorine (Funginex) are labelled for control of
powdery mildew of chrysanthemum.
Virus Diseases
Virus diseases like mosaic and stunt or virus-like diseases such as
aster yellows are occasionally a problem on chrysanthemums.
These diseases are typically transmitted by insects and vary in
their occurrence each year according to the insect survival rate
after winter. They may cause plants to be severely stunted with
distorted leaves or have mottled and yellowed leaves with no
apparent reduction in growth. Aster yellows is caused by an
organism called a mycoplasma which resembles bacteria, but
behaves much like a virus in symptom development. There is

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little you can do to prevent these diseases and other virus

disease in the garden. The best approach to this is to rogue out
infected plants as soon as they are discovered and control insects
which transmit the viruses; particularly aphids and leafhoppers.
Insects
Aphids
These are soft-bodied insects that range in color from green to
black and about one-eighth inch long at the largest. Aphids feed
by sucking out plant juices from cells. Most feeding activity will
take place from the underside of the leaves and buds. Under
severe infestations, aphid feeding will cause tissues to become
yellowed. The only way to effectively control aphids is with
insecticides. Suitable materials include malathion, diazinon and
insecticidal soap which when use properly and sprayed to provide
uniform coverage can be quite effective.
Caterpillars
A couple different types of caterpillars may chew holes in the
leaves or feed on the buds. Generally, these pests will cause little
lasting damage and therefore should be tolerated unless the plant
shows more than 50% loss of tissue. Caterpillars can otherwise
be controlled by using an insecticide like those mentioned for
aphid control. In addition, carbaryl (Sevin) should be added to
the list as well as one biological insecticide called Bacillus
thuringinesis (Dipel, Thuricide, Bactur). Insecticidal soaps are not
effective against caterpillars.
Leafhoppers
These small, wedge-shaped insects are always found on the
underside of leaves where they feed by sucking plant juices out of
cells. Typically, they are green in color and fly or run sideways
when disturbed. Heavy feeding will cause leaves to become

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mottled, curled and withered. The same insecticides as those

recommended for aphids plus carbaryl (Sevin) will control
leathoppers.
Leafminers
Leafminers spend most of their pest life inside leaves burrowing
between the upper and lower cell layers. Light-colored,
serpentine mines can be easily distinguished. Heavily infested
leaves may curl and wither. Insecticides sprayed over the surface
are not likely to control the feeding of leafminers in the leaves,
however, malathion and diazinon can be used to control egglaying adults.
Plant Bugs
Plant bugs do not typically cause real problem on
chrysanthemums, but can be found feeding on sap by puncturing
tissues with their mouth parts. These insects are about onequarter of an inch long, brown or green in color with some black
marking on the back. If necessary, plant bugs can be controlled
by use of malathion, diazinon or carbaryl.
Spider Mites
When conditions become hot and dry, spider mites can be a
persistent problem on chrysanthemums. These are related, but
not true insects which feed on the underside of leaves by rasping
and rupturing cells with their mouth parts. The plant sap which
leaks out is then lapped up. Heavy feeding will cause the leaves
to become bronzed and dry looking. They are difficult to observe
with the naked eye and therefore, often avoid detection until the
damage is already done. Insecticidal soaps as well as those
pesticides which control aphids can be effective against spider
mites. Carbaryl (Sevin) will not control mites.

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Climbers and creepers

Botanically, plants, which have special structure to climb on
supports, are defined as climber. Climbers are very important
ornamental plants and the beauty of any garden can be greatly
increased by carefully selecting and planting them in a suitable
place.
The growth habit and mass of colour give charming appearance.
Climbers are very commonly used on arches and pergolas but in
cities their utility enhanced for the purpose of screening the
premises from adjacent houses and maintaining privacy.
Bare walls can be most effectively decorated by growing colourful
climbers on it. Fences and trellis also provide scope for the
beautiful climbers to grow and display. It is often felt that among
the various types of ornamental plants least interest is taken on
climbers and only few species or varieties are found growing in a
locality.
Even a good amateur gardener seldom knows more than a dozen
climbers as information regarding a large number of these plants
is not readily available. Attempts have been made to include
description of plants of horticultural interest and their utility and
practical hits on cultivation of a large number of climbers suitable
for tropical gardens.

Another type of climbing plants grows spirally around another

plant or support and do not possess tendrils, rootlets, shoots or

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thorn. These are known as twiners e.g., Echites, Chonemorpha,

Clerodendron.

Creepers cannot grow vertically on their own e.g., Morning Glory.

All these types of plants are commonly known as climbers. Most
of the flowering climbers require full sun for growth and
flowering; few climbers, however, grow well in shade and flower
e.g., Thunbergia grandiflora, Clerodendron splendens,
Jacquemontia violacea, Asparagus racemosus, Scindapsus,
Philodendrons, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Cissus discolor
are grown for beautiful foliage in shade or partial shade.
Scindapsus (Pothos) are the most popular climber in shade and
when grown on tree trunk, the leaves grow large with very
attractive shades of green and yellow. Philodendrons are also
grown on tree trunks in shady places. Ficus repens (Indian ivy) is

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the most popular and widely grown plant for covering bare walls
or pedestrals. No support is needed as the roots from the node
grip the walls.

Climbers which grow quickly and cover the space thickly are
mostly used for this purpose. Railway creeper (Ipomoea
palmata), Antigonon and Vernonia are commonly selected.
Vermonia has neat growth but the flowers are not showy. Some
heavy climbers with colourful bloom can be recommended. These
are Clerodendron splendens, Derris scandens, Thumbergia,
Adenocalymna calycina, Passiflora, Bignonia gracilis,
Rhyncospermum, Bougainvillea, Ficus stipulata is also an ideal
climber for screening shady place.

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Ideal climbers for pergola

Quisqualis, Banisteria laurifolia, Derris scandens, Clerodendron

splendens, Petrea volubilis, Pyrostegia venusta, Bougainvillea.

Annual climber
Important annual climbers are sweet pea and heavenly blue
morning glory (Ipomoea coerulea), Mina lobata with yellow and
orange red spikes and Quamoclit vulgaris with white, pink and
red flowers are also popular annual climbers.
Climbers for pot culture
For growing climbers in pots, light climbers or those with
bushy growth should be selected. Climbers should be planted in
large pots (20-30cm) and given suitable support to allow the
plant to grow. Among the perennial climbers Clematis flammula,
Bignonia purpurea, should be selected for pot cultivation.
Bougainvilleas in pots are usually treated as shrubs.

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Soil
Loamy soil with good drainage suits well to most of the climbers.
Decayed cow or stable manure or leaf mould should be
incorporated in the soil of the pit about 50cm in depth and
diameter in case of large and heavy climbers. For light climber,
the pit may be 30cm deep and 25 cm in diameter. Bone meal and
leaf mould show very good result if cow-manure is not available.
Distance of planting depends on the species or variety and the
purpose for which the climbers are used.
Quick growing heavy climbers are planted at a distance of 3m for
screening, while light climbers for the same purpose may be
grown at 1m. To cover fences or walls closer planting is
recommended. Vernonia and ficus repens are planted at a
distance of 15-30cm.
As the climbers do not grow erect without support, main stem
and the branches should be tied up with the support. This helps
to grow and cover the space quickly. Like other perennial plants
planting of climbers can be done any time of the year early
monsoon is the best. Manuring encourages growth and flowering
of climbers. Bone meal or hoof and horn once or twice in the
monsoon will be beneficial to the plants.
Selection of Climbers
There are different situations in the garden like sunny, partial
shade and different structures according to which suitable type
can be selected from an available wide choice. The climbers for
different situation are as follows:
For sunny situation:
Phyrostegia venusta, Quisqualis indica, Antigonon leptopus,
Adenocalymma alliaceum, Bougainvillea sp., Campsis grandiflora
etc.

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For Partial shade:

Clerodendron splendens, Petrea volubilis, Lonicera japonica,
Trachalospermum jasminoides.
Heavy climbers:
These climbers produce luxuriant vegetative growth and grow
very vigorously. They cover large area and are suitable for
covering bigger area e.g. Antigonon leptopus, Bignonia magnifica,
Beaumontia grandiflora, Bougainvillea sp., Hiptage benghalensis,
Quisqualis indica, Wisteria sinensis Pyrostegia venusta,
Clerodendron splendens.
Light climbers:
These climbers make sparse vegetative growth and remain light
in spread. These climbers are suitable for limited spaces e.g.
Lonicera japonica, Trachelospermum jasmenoides, Clitoria
ternatea.
Climbers for fragrant flowers:
Jasminum grandiflorum, L. officinale, Trachelospermum
jasminoides, hiptage benghalensis, Clematic penniculata.
Climbers for pots:
Bougainvillea, Clitoria ternatea.
Climbers for hedge:
Clerodendron inerme and Bougaivillea.
Climbers for indoor decoration:
Shade loving climbers like Pothos, Monstera deliciosa,
Philodendron sp., Asparagus sp., etc can be grown in pots and
can be kept indoor also.
Climbers for screening:
Vernonia elegnaefolia, Pyrostegia venusta.

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Annual climbers:
There are climbers, which are seasonal in nature and can be
grown temporarily. E.g. sweet pea, trailing nasturtium. There are
woody climbers, which can also be grown as annual like Ipomeas
lobata, Clitoria ternatea.
Clematis flammula (Ranunculaceae)
A slender low-growing climber. Leaves usually bipinnate dark
green, often trifoliate; leaflets narrowly lanceolate entire,
glabrous 1.3 to 3.2 cm long. Flowers very fragrant, small 1.9 to
2.5 cm across pure white in loose panicle up to 20-30cm long,
Sepals 4-linear oblong.
Clematis flammula has less growth but flowers heavily on large
panicles in the early rains. It is ideal for small gardens on low
walls or wire nettings. It likes porous soil and partial shade.
Propagation by layering.
Ipomoea palmata, Railway creeper
A perennial vigorous climber. Leaves 5.0 to 7.6cm in diameter,
cut nearly to the base 5 to 7 lobes, entire, elliptic or lanceolate.
Flowers purple, 5.0 to 6.3cm across often 3 flowered cyme.
Corolla campanulate, colour deeper in the throat.
Ipomoea purpurea, Common morning glory
It is also a quick-growing climber. Leaves entire, ovatecordate,
7.6 to 12.7cm long pubsecent on both surfaces. Flowers large
funnel shaped few on auxiliary peduncles, about 6.3 to 7.6cm
across, white, pale blue or purple.
Passiflora coerulea (Passifloraceae)
A vigorous climber. Stipule leafy, cordate, toothed. Leaves
divided nearly to the petiole into 5 lanceolate or lance-elliptic
segments 10.2 to 16.2cm across. Flowers solitary, large 7.6cm
across, auxiliary. Bracts large ovate-cordate about 2.5cm in
length. Petals 5 oblong-obtuse, pale pink in colour. Corona 5.0cm

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across, outer filaments blue at top, white in the middle and

purple at base.
Passiflora deulis
Woody, strong and spreading climber. Stem angular slightly
downy or glabrous. Tendrils auxiliary, long simple. Leaves
alternate large. 10.2 to 12.7cm long and wide deeply 3 lobed.
Lobes ovate, glandular, toothed. Flowers solitary terminal or
auxiliary, 3 leafy bracts, 5 lobed greenish with short crown. Petals
5 about 2cm long, oblong white often tinted with purple. Corona
in several rows white in the upper half violet or purple below.
Fruit globular, oblong, thickly purple dotted.
Pyrostegia purpurea
An evergreen climber. Leaves compound, leaflets 3 ovate to
ovate-oblong about 5.0 to 7.6cm long mostly toothed bright
green above paler beneath. Flowers 4 to 10 rosy purple in
auxiliary cyme. Corolla funnel shaped about 5.0cm long, lobes 5
spreading about 6cm across.
This ideal climber produces flowers in large bunches 6 to 8 times
a year in the summer and rains and rains and should be grown on
trellis or low walls. Propagated from layers.
Thunbergia laurifolia
A shrubby climber. Stem terets, smooth except when young.
Leaves opposite, ovate, oblong lanceolate rounded at the base,
entire or slightly toothed 15 cm long about 6.3cm wide. Flowers
borne in auxiliary or terminal raceme. Corolla tube cylindrical,
swelling above, cuneal-shaped with spreading large 5 lobed limb
about 6.3cm across pale blue, white or yellow in the throat.

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Roses The Queen of Flowers

The Rose, belong to the shrub family and is called the queen of
flowers and is known for their beauty and fragrance. This
flowering shrub is mainly valued for their beautiful colour flowers
and fragrance. It has about 150 species. Many thousands of
cultivars have been developed from these species through cross
breeding, selection and hybridization and they vary widely from
miniatures under 30 cm tall to climbing types that climb up to 15
meter high.
Many writers, artists, and composers have always praised the
rose and have rightly called it the flowers of love. It was the
Greek poet Sappho who coined the title 'Queen' to the flower over
2500 years ago. In the early Roman culture, Roses were a part of
upper class life. The decorations for parties, weddings, funerals,
festivals and on statues and monuments, chariots and shields
were adorned with roses. People would bathe in rose water, wear
rose garlands, make confections and wine with rose petals. Even
medications were prepared from rose petals, fruits (hips) and
seeds.
The cultivars are mainly covered under the heading of Old Garden
roses and the Modern roses. In a garden, roses can be planted as
borders, hedges, backgrounds, and specimen plants. They can be
planted not only in the open ground but in pots and raised beds
on your verandah, terrace or balcony.
Planting
Roses grow best in soil with a pH 6.5 (slightly acidic) and 7.0.
The soil structure should be such that it remains moist for most
part of the day and at the same time it should be well-drained.
Avoid planting the rose shrub in excessively sandy or clayey soils.
Sand should be added if the soil is extremely moist/ clayey. Add

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peat moss, dead leaves or some other organic sources to the soil
before planting the rose. The soil should be prepared at
least a month in advance of the planting.
The best time to plant bare root roses is in January or February
up to March. October end. November planting can also be
successful if your area does not have severe winters. Potted roses
that it can be planted at almost any time. Before planting, potted
plants can be placed outdoors and watered for some time to
make the roots and canes moist. Potted roses need to be pruned
when planted. In order to restore the bare root plant, it should be
placed in a bucket of water for 1 2-24 hours before planting.
Location
Roses flower best in sunny locations. Most types need at least 6
hours of direct sunshine daily, preferably in the morning for
flowering and growth. Try to select a planting location that is not
shaded by buildings, trees etc.
Dig a trench of 40 cm deep and 50 cm wide with one side
slanted. Soak the area where you intend plant the rose to make
the soil more manageable. Small roses need a hole not much
more than 40 cm across. Shrub roses need holes about 90to 100
cm across. Climbers planted along a wall may need holes which
are a little bigger than this. Before planting a bare root plant trim
off any long or damaged roots. Place the juncture of roots and
stem just below the soil surface. If there is a bud union, it should
be about 2.5 cm above the soil. Fill the hole with soil and press it
firmly down. Water thoroughly after planting.
If using a granulated fertiliser:
Scatter a small amount of all-purpose fertilizer lightly under
plants from the stem to beyond the outer spread of branches
or foliage.
Water slowly and deeply.

NOTE: Never over fertilise if you see lots of weak, leafy

growth and few flowers.

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Propagation
Propagation can be done from cuttings, by budding.
Budding
Make a 2.5 cm long T shaped cut in bark of under stock, an inch
or two above soil level. For bud wood, choose a stem that has
just flowered. Slice under bud to get a 2.5 cm bark with bud in it.
Peel back under stock bark at T cut, insert bud shield. Bud should
be at least 0.5 cm below top of T. Firmly tie bud in place with
soft cotton thread (used by the plumbers).Strip wrapping both
above and below it but leaving bud exposed. When bud sends out
a strong new shoot the next spring, cut of under stock growth
about 1 inch above the shoot. If the bud is plump and green,
your new rose bush is born.
Cuttings
you can start cuttings after the first bloom. Cuttings should be 15
to 20 cm
Long. Cut a newly flowered stem below a leaf, remove lower
leaves and plant in sandy potting mix. Remember that the
cuttings should not be allowed to dry out. Keep it moist/humid by
covering it with a plastic bag. The bag should be removed once
the new growth emerges.
Caring for the roses
Pruning
Pruning involves removing any damaged, diseased or dead wood
of a rose bush to improve the appearance, stimulate growth and
control pests and diseases. Improper/heavy pruning can affect
blooming. The how and when of pruning roses is determined by
the type of rose. Here we are given few basic steps to prune your
rose plant.

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Plants are ready to be pruned, when the bush becomes leafless or

with a few leaves during the dormant season. Use a sharp knife
or pruning shears and remember one thing to cut approximately
1 cm above an outward facing bud. Remove all old, damaged and
diseased canes. Take out stems that cross through the centre and
thin out the center of the plant. Where canes cross and rub
against each other prune out the less healthy cane. Shorten the
remaining healthy growth by 1/3rd of its length. Apply a borduix
mixture paste to the cuts in order to avoid damage by insects and
diseases.
Fertilistion
Although some roses may flourish without fertilization, they need
nutrients for peak performance. So it is usually necessary to
apply fertilizer.
The three basic nutrients for healthy growth are Nitrogen,
Phosphorous, and Potassium. Do not fertilize newly planted roses
until after the first bloom. If you want to avoid using chemical
fertilisers you can try these organic alternatives: bone meal,
compost, fish emulsion, manure, and seaweed or soybean meal.
Apply fertiliserhen you see new emerging growth. Fertilisea
second time when the first flower buds set in. Apply a final
fertilizer after two months.
Watering
The amount and frequency of application will depend on soil type,
bush size, and the rainfall in your area. When watering roses, be
sure to soak the soil well; they need more than just light sprays
of water. Washing the leaves every week or so will make the
plants healthy. This will also wash away some insect pests. Some
other tips include watering in the morning, avoid letting the water
come into contact with the leaves and blooms, and providing
mulch so that the soil retains its moisture. The uses of mulch

P a g e | 78

around roses help to retain soil moisture and help retard weed
growth.

Diseases and Pest Control

The rose plants are mainly affected by three types of diseases Black-spot, Powdery and Rust. For black spot you should
thoroughly clean up debris at pruning time, then apply the
Borduixmixture to the cuts. Resistance varies from one rose
variety to the next for powdery mildew. Garden sanitation is best
for rust and can be controlled with foliage sprays.
The pests that usually attack the roses are - Aphids, Thrips,
Beetles, Borers, Rose midge, caterpillars, Worms and Mites.

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Natural enemies like lady bugs help keep aphids in check. They
effect growth and can deform leaves. Hand picking is the safest
control for Beetles, Caterpillars and worms and Borers. To control
mites spraying water is the simplest remedial measure. Use a
nozzle that produces fine spray, thoroughly wash off the
undersides of the leaves. Repeat this method at least three times.
Thrips deform flower petals. To control thrips use chemical spray
plants always from above, making certain to cover all the leaves.
Types of Roses
Hybrid
Hybrid roses dominate modern rose gardens and have long,
pointed buds. They grow up to 100 to 150 cmtall and produce
semi double to double flowers, repeatedly during the season.
Examples are Paradise, Peace, Polarstern, Pristine etc.
Climbing Roses
Tall plants generally grow from 2 to 6 meter high. They are
grown on walls & fences, trellises. Climber flowers are large with
only a few per cluster. They require very little pruning, and nearly
all are repeat bloomers viz Blaze, Don Juan, Dortmund, Climbing
Iceberg etc
Miniature Roses
These rose plants grow up to 60 cmor less in height with small
blooms. Colour range includes all the shades found in modern
hybrid teas, in flowers that range from informal to hybrid tea
style. Miniatures are grown on their own root. Some of the
Miniatures are Rainbow's End, Red Beauty, Rise 'N' Shine. There
are certain types of climbing miniatures derived from crosses of
miniatures with climbing roses.

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Shrub Rose
Shrub roses are hardy, have a tolerance to less than optimum
growing conditions, and needs only low maintenance. Flower size
varies from small to large, can be single or double. This plant
may be 2to 3 meter tall and bloom all season long. You can use
them as borders, hedges etc. Some of the common varieties are Bonica,Frau Dogmar Hartopp, Abraham Darby, Golden Wings etc.
Floribundas
Floribundas are bushy plants that grow from 60 to 120 cm high.
Individual flowers may be single or double and are borne in
clusters. Good for borders or containers, floribundas provide an
almost constant show of color - Impatient, Angel Face, Ivory
Fashion
Grandifloras
These are tall elegant plants 5 to 8 feet high. Grandiflorars bloom
repeatedly during the season. This type has been derived from
crosses between Hybrid and Floribundas. Medium to large flowers
usually comes in small clusters - Aquarius, Gold Medal, Pink
Parfait etc.
Standard or Tree Roses
Tree roses or standard roses are small plants from 60o 90 cm
high. This is a bush rose budded on to a under stock stem to
produce a rose tree. The standard tree rose has full-sized flowers.
Many popular rose varieties are available in tree form.

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Scientific Name

Type

Common
names

Colour

Description

Standard or Tree Roses

Rosa Blaze

Climber

Blaze, Flaming
Fury

Red

An everlasting free
flowering plant.Grows from
12 to 15 feet. Double
flowers with 25 petals.
Light fragrance. Shiny
leathery dark green leaves.

Rosa Royal
Sunset

Climber

Royal Sunset

Deep
apricot,
yellow
pink
blend,
orange
blend

Plant grows from 8 to 10

feet. Dark glossy green
leaves. Strong fragrance.

Rosa Macha

Climber

Handel,
Haendel

Creamy
white and
rose-pink

Tall plant grows from 12 to

15 feet. Flowers with 25
petals. Colour is creamy
pink, with petal bordered
in bright rose pink. Double
blooms. Light fragrance.
Dark bronzed green
leaves.

Miniaturepink

Cupcake

Frosting
pink

Long lasting, free

flowering, bushy plant.
Well-shaped blooms with
sweet fragrance. Glossy
leaves.

Rosa Beauty
Secret

Miniaturered

Beauty Secret

Cherry red
buds

Bushy habit plant. Lovely

small flowers with 20
petals. Long pointed buds
open to semi double
blossoms. Strong fruity
fragrance. Dark green
foliage.

Rosa 'Yellow Doll'

Miniatureyellow

Yellow Doll

Light
Yellow

Spreading habit flower

with 50 petals. Double,
fairly large blooms.
Flowers are moderately
fragrant.

Miniature Roses

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Scientific Name

Type

Common
names

Colour

Description

Multicolour Roses
Rosa Burway

Hybrid Tea

Broadway

Pink
Yellow
blend

Rosa Peace

Hybrid /
Climber

Peace, Beke,
Fredsrosen,
Gioia, Mme A
Meilland, Mme
Antoine Meilland

Yellow and
Pink blend

Rosa Aromiclea

Hybrid Tea

Voodoo

Orange,
Yellow and
Pink blend

Rosa Macdub

Bright red

Dublin Bay,
Grand Hotel

Bright Red

Rosa Jacdew

Floribunda

Impatient

Orange
Red

Rosa Oklahoma

Hybrid Tea/
Climber

Oklahoma,
Almost Black

Red/Black,
Red
/Purple

Tall upright habit plant

grows from 4 feet. Dark
green leathery leaves.
Large double blooms with
35 petals of pink and
yellow, with pink tones
intense at edges. Spicy
fragrance.
Bushy habit plant of
medium height grows from
5 to 6 feet. Large double
blossoms with pink rimmed
yellow petals. Dark green
glossy leaves. Disease
resistant and makes good
cut flowers.
Tall, bushy upright plant
with plenty of dark bronze
green, glossy foliage.
Richly fragrant blossoms
that soften to yellow and
peach shades, then finally
fade to pink. Good cut
flower.

Red Roses
A bright red climbing Rose
with small clusters of 25
petals. Semi double cut
flowers grows from 8 to 12
feet. Good disease
resistant foliage, needs full
sun. Flowers are
moderately fragrant.
Upright bushy plant with
semi double blooms in
cluster. 25 petals with light
fragrance. Good cut
flowers, grows to 4 feet
and has good disease
resistance.
Very large, long lasting
flower with 48 petals.
Intensely fragrant rose.
Plant is a vigorous grower.
Grows to 4 feet.

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Scientific Name

Type

Common
names

Colour

Description

Pink Roses
Rosa Bridal Pink

Hybrid Tea

Rosa Bridal
Pink

Pink
blended
with
cream

Bridal pink, the upright

bushy fragrant rose flower
looks like a painters brush
spattered darker pink on
the bloom. It needs very
little care. Bridal pink
is long lasting and
generally grows from 3 to
5 feet high.
Bonica, an ever blooming,
dense, spreading habit
flower. It is an easy to
grow shrub which cover
themselves with large
clusters of smallish fully
double flowers having a
light fragrance. This bushy
plant grows from 3 to 5
feet.
An upright, bushy shrub
with rich pink flowers
having light scent. It
generally grows from 2 to
5 feet. Long buds in small
clusters which open into
semi double blooms. It
blooms repeatedly all year
long. Glossy, dark green
foliage. This delight your
garden throughout the
growing season .

Rosa
Meldomonac

Shrub roses

Bonica, Red
Bonica

Soft pink

Rosa Bucbi

Shrub
Roses

Carefree beauty

Strong
Pink

Rosa Jacare

Floribunda

Class Act, First

Class, White
Magic

White to
cream

Medium height plant grows

from 2 to 2.5 feet. Good
disease resistance. Dark
green leaves. Moderately
double flowers with fruity
fragrance.

Rosa Jacven

Floribunda

Evening Star

Pure
White

Medium size, lightly

fragrant flowers comes in
small clusters. Flower.
Plant grows from 2.5 feet
to 4. Good disease
resistance. Healthy foliage.

White Roses

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Scientific Name
Rosa Lenip

Type
Hybrid Tea

Common
names
Pascali, Blanche
Pasca

Colour

Description

Warm
white

Tall upright bushy plant

with dark green foliage.
Vigorous, good resistance
grows up to 3 to 4 feet.
Large flowers with 30
petals. Long lasting cut
flower.
Large, semi-gloss, fully
double magnificent
flowers. Good as cut
flowers, they have a strong
spicy sweet fragrance.
The plant is bushy and
needs full sun. Generally
grows from 3 to 3.5 feet,
spreading habit, has good
disease resistance and
dark green bronze tinted
foliage.
Upright bushy habit plant
grows medium height of
3.5 feet. Medium sized
flowers with 26 petals with
golden yellow petal backs.
Shapely pointed buds,
strong fragrance and
glossy foliage.
Large broad 28 petal
flower with mild fragrance.
Semi glossy, dark green
foliage. Plant is medium
tall, vigorous bush. Good
disease resistance needs
good soil.

Orange Roses
Rosa Harroony

Floribunda

Amber Queen,
Harmony

Golden
yellow

Rosa Korgane

Hybrid Tea

Las Vegas

Orangegold blend

Rosa Arocad

Hybrid Tea

Brandy

Bronzeapricot

Yellow Roses
Summer Love

Hybrid tea/
climber

Summer
Sunshine

Deep
Yellow

Upright spreading plant

reaches height from 3 to
3.5 feet. Very large flowers
with 25 petals. Lightly
fragrant. Glossy green
leaves have a bronzy tint

Rosa Tanolg

Hybrid Tea

Oregold' Miss
Harp, Silhouette

Saffronyellow

Upright medium bushy

plant grows from 3 to 4
feet. Lightly scented large
oval flowers with 40 petals.
Dark glossy leaves.

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Scientific Name
Rosa New Day

Type
Hybrid Tea

Common
names
New Day'
Mabella

Colour

Description

Soft
Yellow

Upright, bushy fairly

thorny plant of height 4
feet. Leathery gray-green
foliage. Large double high
centered blooms. Tapered
buds. Spicy fragrance

Low, upright, spreading

plant flowers heavily.
Grows from 3 to 3.5 feet.
Flowers with 30 petals
blooms in clusters. Good
disease resistance with
strong fragrance. Good
cut flower. Glossy leaves.
Upright bush of medium
height from 2 to 3 feet.
Powerful citrusy fragrance.
Large attractive flowers,
purple red in colour of 25
petals each. Good foliage.

Lavender Roses
Rosa Angel Face

Rosa Jacum
Rosa Wezip

Floribunda
/ climber

Angel Face

Rosy
lavender
edged
with
crimson

Floribunda

Intrigue

Purplered

Hybrid Tea/
climber

Paradise,
Passion,
Burning Sky

Medium
lavender
with ruby
edging

Upright bushy medium

plant of height 3 feet.
Double blooms.
Flowers with 28 petals.
Fruity fragrance. Green
foliage; does
poorly in cold, wet
conditions; needs full sun.

TIPS - Pruning
There is usually no real need to prune most grasses at all except to
keep them neat and attractive.
1. Cut ornamental grasses either in the fall to keep them neat
through the winter, or in late winter before new growth comes
out to avoid damaging it for the entire season.
2. Never burn ornamental grasses to remove old growth; this often
kills the center crown and can be dangerous as well.
3. Cut back old foliage to help make handling easier (watch for
wasp nests)
4. Use a saw or sharpened shovel to cut into and divide the center
of the clump through the roots.
5. Dig underneath the portion to be removed.
6. Remove and replant as soon as possible.

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INSECTS PESTS DISEASES AND CONTROL

Pesticides Introduction
Terminology and Definitions
Pests Organisms such as insects, rodents, nematodes, fungi, weeds, birds, bacteria, viruses, etc., which
damage the crops and reduce yield. Pests are injurious to human health and/or farmers economic efforts.
Pesticides Chemicals or mixtures of chemicals that are used for killing. repelling, mitigating or reducing
pest damage.
Herbicides Substances used for inhibiting growth of plants, plant parts, or to kill/destroy the plants.
Defoliants Substances that initiate leaves to fall.
Desiccants Substances that cause plant tissue to dry up.
Fungicides Substances that prevent, destroy or inhibit the growth of fungi in crop plants.
Insecticides Substances that prevent, inhibit, destroy, kill insects (belonging to Class
Rodenticides Substances that prevent, inhibit, destroy, kill rodents (Class Mammalia,
Miticides/Acaricldes Substances that prevent, inhibit, destroy, kill or mitigate mites (
Nematicides Chemicals that prevent, repel, inhibit or destroy members of the Class
Molluscicides Prevent, repel, inhibit or destroy members of the Phylum Mollusca such
as snails.
Formulation The form in which a pesticide is sold for use.
Active ingredient (a.i) is a part of a pesticide formulation which is the actual toxicant sometimes referred
to as "technical grade" or "basic pesticide"
Inert ingredients Substances, other than the active ingredient, which constitute a pesticide formulation.
Classification of Pesticides
Pesticides may be classified according to:
a) the target pest species.
b) their chemical constitution
c) their site of action
Systemic poisons and Contact poisons
These poisons enter the body directly through the cuticle by contact with the treated surface of the foliage,
stem, etc. These poisons act on the nervous system of the pest. These may also be applied directly on to
the body of the pest as a spray or dust. Examples: benzene hexachloride. dichloro diphenyl trichloro
ethane, endrin, quinalphos, carbamates, etc. Some of the known pesticides derived from plants also have
contact action.
Examples: pyrethrum, rotenone, sabadilla. nicotine, etc.
Stomach poisons
Stomach poisons enter the body of the pest through the mouth during feeding into the digestive tract from
where these are absorbed into the systems. Stomach poisons are more effective against chewing insects
and useful in controlling insects with siphoning or sponging types of mouth parts (housefly for an example).
Examples: dieldrin, sulfur, lead arsenate, etc.
Classification based on site of action
By segmenting insecticides/acaricides and fungicides separately, insecticides/ acaricides can be classified
on the basis of their routes of entry into the body system of the target pest.
A. For spraying after mixing with water/oil
i) Emulsifiable concentrates (EC)
ii) Wettable powders (WP or WDP)

P a g e | 87

iii) Ultra low volume concentrates (ULV)

B. For dry application directly from the container
i) Dusts (D)
ii) Granules (G)
iii) Encapsulated granules
C. For application as a gas or vapor
i) Fumigants
ii) Smoke generators or tablets that vaporize
iii) Aerosols and pressurized sprays
D. Other formulations
i) Seed protectants (dry or liquid)
ii) Baits for rodents, slugs, flies, cockroaches, etc.
These are concentrated solutions of the technical grade material containing an emulsifier to help the
concentrate mix readily with water for spraying. The emulsifier is a detergent that causes the suspension of
microscopically small oil droplets in water, to form an emulsion. When an emulsifiable concentrate is added
to water and agitated (i.e., stirred vigorously), the emulsifier causes the oil to disperse uniformly throughout
the carrier (i.e., water) producing an opaque liquid. Liquid formulations are easy to transport and store, and
require little agitation in the tank. However, care must be exercised in handling the toxic concentrates.
Emulsifiable concentrates (EC)
Type of Formulations
Formulations contain the a.i. in a definite concentration together with other materials such as inert
carriers, emulsifiers, wetting agents, solvents, thickeners, encapsulants, etc. According to the intended
mode of application, the common formulations can be grouped as follows:
They have unsuitable physical characteristics. They are generally waxy or lumpy solids or viscous liquids.
In this form, they are difficult to apply.
They have high purity levels and hence the required dose is difficult to disperse. The quantity involved is
very small to be evenly and effectively dispersed over a specified area.
The toxicity of the a.i. is much higher compared to the formulations. Thus, application of a.i. is not only
hazardous but also needs specialized training and knowledge in handling.
The a.i. does not have the ideal physiochemical characteristics which the formulations have.
Pesticides are first manufactured as technical grade (active ingredient or a.i). In this form, they are
unsuitable for direct use because of the following reasons:
Pesticides nomenclature
Pesticides usually have three different names.
i) Chemical name or the name of the active ingredient in pure form,
ii) Common name, and
iii) Trade name/brand name or proprietary name.

P a g e | 88

APHIDS
Aphids

Aphids

Aphids

Aphids

Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects with long, slender mouth parts that they use to pierce stems, leaves,
and other tender plant parts and suck out plant fluids. Almost every plant has one or more aphid species
that occasionally feeds on it.
IDENTIFICATION
Aphids may be green, yellow, brown, red, or black depending on the species and the plants they feed on. A
few species appear waxy or woolly due to the secretion of a waxy white or gray substance over their body
surface. Generally adult aphids are wingless, but most species also occur in winged forms, especially when
populations are high or during spring and fall. Although they may be found singly, aphids often feed in
dense groups on leaves or stems.
LIFE CYCLE
Aphids have many generations a year. Most aphids in mild climate reproduce asexually throughout most or
all of the year with adult females giving birth to live offspring (often as many as 12 per day) without mating.
Young aphids are called nymphs. They molt, shedding their skins about four times before becoming adults.
There is no pupal stage. Some species mate and produce eggs in fall or winter, which provides them a
more hardy stage to survive harsh weather. In some cases, these eggs are laid on an alternative host,
usually a perennial plant, for winter survival.
When the weather is warm, many species of aphids can develop from newborn nymph to reproducing adult
in 7 to 8 days. Because each adult aphid can produce up to 80 offspring in a matter of a week, aphid
populations can increase with great speed.

DAMAGE
Low to moderate numbers of leaf-feeding aphids are usually not damaging in gardens or on trees.
However, large populations cause curling, yellowing, and distortion of leaves and stunting of shoots; they

P a g e | 89

can also produce large quantities of a sticky exudate known as honeydew, which often turns black with the
growth of a sooty mold fungus. Some aphid species inject a toxin into plants, which further distorts growth.
A few species cause gall formations.
Aphids may transmit viruses from plant to plant on certain vegetable and ornamental plants. Squashes,
cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, beans, potatoes, lettuces, beets, chards, and bok choy are crops that often
have aphid-transmitted viruses associated with them. The viruses cause mottling, yellowing, or curling of
leaves and stunting of plant growth. Although losses can be great, they are difficult to prevent through the
control of aphids because infection occurs even when aphid numbers are very low: it only takes a few
minutes for the aphid to transmit the virus while it takes a much longer time to kill the aphid with an
insecticide.
A few aphid species attack parts of plants other than leaves and shoots. The lettuce root aphid is a soil
dweller that attacks lettuce roots during most of its cycle, causing lettuce plants to wilt and occasionally die
if populations are high. The lettuce root aphid overwinters as eggs on poplar trees, where it produces leaf
galls in spring and summer. The woolly apple aphid infests woody parts of apple roots and limbs, often near
pruning wounds, and can cause overall tree decline if roots are infested for several years.
MANAGEMENT
Although aphids seldom kill a mature plant, the damage and unsightly honeydew they generate sometimes
warrant control.
CHEMICAL CONTROL
Insecticidal soap, neem oil, provides temporary control if applied to thoroughly cover infested foliage. To
get thorough coverage, spray these materials with a high volume of water and target the underside of
leaves as well as the top. Soaps, neem oil, only kill aphids present on the day they are sprayed, so
applications may need to be repeated.
Many other insecticides are available to control aphids in the home garden and landscape,
including foliar-applied formulations of malathion, permethrin and acephate (nonfood crops only).
Acephate has systemic activity, which means it moves through leaves, thus it can be effective
where aphids are hidden beneath curling foliage. The soil-applied systemic pesticide Acephate is
sometimes applied in roses for aphid control, but it is a highly toxic material to people. Use 1 part
Acephate in 1 liter water.
When considering application of pesticides for aphid control, remember that moderate populations of many
aphids attacking leaves of fruit trees or ornamental trees and shrubs do not cause long-term damage. Low
populations can be tolerated in most situations and aphids will often disappear when natural enemies or hot
temperatures arrive. Often a forceful spray of water or water-soap solution, even on large street trees,
when applied with appropriate equipment, will provide sufficient control.

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MITES
Mite Eggs

Mite Red

Mite Foliage Damage

Mite Colony

These small creatures can normally not be seen by the naked eyes. It is only after the damage occurs that
we observe that the cause is mites.
IDENTIFICATION
There are over 20 different types of mites but the common ones are cyclamen and broad mites. These
mites are about one-fourth the size of spider mites and can't be seen without a microscope or a 20X
magnifier. Adult cyclamen mites can be translucent white, pinkish orange, or pale yellow. Broad mites are
often translucent, yellowish, or greenish, and female broad mites have a white stripe down the center of
their back. Broad mites have a tapered body that is widest between their second pair of legs and more
narrow toward the rear. Cyclamen mites have sides that are more nearly parallel, not sharply tapered.
LIFE CYCLE
The mites, such as the two-spotted spider mite, lay as many as 100 to 200 eggs on the undersides of
leaves on one of approximately 180 host plants. Host plants include field crops, ornamental plants, weeds
or house plants. The eggs take up to 20 days to hatch, although they may hatch in just a few days if the
weather cooperates. Cool-weather spider mites often spend the entire winter in the egg stage while
attached to the host plant. The eggs begin hatching in the spring. The mite eggs hatch into tiny larvae with
rounded bodies and three pairs of legs, a stage they stay in for several days while they rest and feed. Next,
they molt into a nymph with four pairs of legs, resting and feeding before molting into a second nymph
stage. Within a few days, the second-stage nymphs became adults. The entire process from egg hatching
to adult stage takes between 7 and 14 days. Adult spider mites sport four pairs of legs extending off a
single, oval body. Female spider mites have rounded abdomens while males have pointed abdomens.
Some mites, such as the clover mite, only live for a few weeks as long as weather conditions stay in their
favor. Female two-spotted mites often live longer, spending the winter in a protected spot.

P a g e | 91

DAMAGE

Cyclamen and broad mites infest many hosts such as begonia, dahlia, geranium, gerbera, and verbena.
Infested leaves become cupped, curled, dwarfed, and thickened. Leaves or flowers may become
discolored, bronzed, or stiff. Infested buds discolor, deform, or drop. Internodes may be short, giving plants
a stunted or tufted appearance. When they feed on the sap of houseplants, spider mites cause damage by
biting into them. Spider mite infestation causes light speckles to appear on leaves. Heavy infestations can
stunt and even kill houseplants,
MANAGEMENT
Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is important. The tiny spider mites can be
detected by taking a piece of white paper or cardboard and striking some plant foliage on it. The mites can
be seen walking slowly on the paper. If 10 or more mites per sample are common, controls may be needed.
Syringing Since rainy weather seems to knock off spider mites, using a forceful jet of water from a hose
(syringing) can perform the same task. A regular syringing can keep spider mites under control on most
ornamental plants in the landscape. This technique also helps conserve natural predators.
Chemical Control - "Soft Pesticides". Most spider mites can be controlled with insecticidal oils and soaps.
The oils, both horticultural oil and dormant oil, can be used. Horticultural oils can be used on perennial and
woody ornamentals during the summer at the 1 to 2 percent rate. Higher rates of horticultural oil (3 to 4
percent) or dormant oil are useful for killing mite eggs and dormant adults in the fall and spring. The
insecticidal soaps are useful in the warm season. Remember that mites are very tiny and soaps and
oils work by contact only. Therefore, thorough coverage of the plant is necessary for good control.
There are few products available to the gardener - Dicofol , Acephate), dimethoate , chlorpyriphos
and malathion.
Broad and cyclamen mites are difficult to control with pesticides because they are protected from sprays by
their habit of feeding in buds or within distorted tissue. Regularly inspect plants and disinfest or dispose of
infested plants. Establish new plantings from mite-free stock and never plant new plants near infested ones.
Horticultural oils, available at many garden supply stores, are the most effective spray against mites.
Insecticides are also effective. If your plant is severely infested with spider mites use of Dicofol ,

Acephate), dimethoate , chlorpyriphos and malathion can control them. Spray 1 ml of the pesticide
in 1 liter of water for 15-20 days with a gap of 3-4 days..

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CATERPILLARS
Caterpillar Eggs

Caterpillar Common

Caterpillar Red

Caterpillar Moth

Most flowers are susceptible to damage from caterpillars of one or more species. Caterpillars are the
immature or larval stage of moths and butterflies. Only the larval stage chews plants. Although adults
consume only liquids, such as nectar and water, they are important because they choose which plants to
lay eggs on. Larvae have three pairs of legs on the thorax (the area immediately behind the head) and leg
like appendages on some, but not all, segments of the abdomen.
LIFE CYCLE
Moths and butterflies have complete metamorphosis and develop through four life stages. Adults have
prominent, delicate wings covered with tiny scales that rub off and appear powdery when touched. After
mating, the female moth or butterfly lays her eggs singly or in a mass on or near the host plant or nearby
soil. Eggs usually hatch in several days. The emerging larvae move singly or in groups to feeding sites on
the plant.
Most caterpillars eat voraciously and grow rapidly. Some feed almost continuously. Others, such as
cutworm larvae, hide in the soil during the day, emerging to feed at night. Caterpillars shed their old skins
about five times before entering a nonactive pupal stage. Some species pupate in silken cocoons, and
most species pupate in a characteristic location, such as on the host plant or in litter beneath the plant.
The adult moth or butterfly emerges from the pupal case after several days to several months, depending
on the species and season. Some common caterpillars have only one generation per year outdoors; other
species have several generations each year and can cause damage throughout the growing season.

DAMAGE

Caterpillars chew irregular holes in foliage or blossoms or entirely consume seedlings, young shoots, buds,
leaves, or flowers. Some caterpillars fold or roll leaves together with silk to form shelters. Caterpillar feeding
can kill or retard the growth of young plants.

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MANAGEMENT
Handpick. Eliminate nearby weeds, which may host caterpillars. Provide proper cultural care to allow older
plants to outgrow and replace any damaged tissue after infestations are controlled.
Uses systemic products such as Acephate (1 ml in 1 liter water) spray, which easily eliminate any
caterpillar that is feeding on ornamental plants. When heavily infested shrubs were sprayed with a
solution of Imadaclorprid or use Permethrin. These applications should be made at about 10 to 14
day intervals to effectively kill the different generations of caterpillars that are probably present.
The effect of Imadaclorprid spray 0.050 ml in 1 liter of water last for 6 months.
LEAFHOPPERS
Leafhopper Eggs

Leafhopper Nymphs

Leafhopper Adult

Leafhopper Damage
Rose Leafs

Leafhoppers feed on several flower hosts such as aster, chrysanthemum, dahlia, and nasturtium. Most
adult leafhoppers are slender and less than or about equal to 1/4-inch long. Some species are brightly
colored, while others blend with their host plant. Leafhoppers are active insects; they crawl rapidly
sideways or readily jump when disturbed. Adults and nymphs and their pale cast skins are usually found on
the underside of leaves.
IDENTIFICATION
Leafhoppers may sometimes be confused with aphids or lygus bugs. Look for leafhoppers or their cast
skins on the undersides of affected leaves. Look at their actions; they are faster than aphids and run
sideways and jump. Lygus bug nymphs are light green and also move much faster than aphids. They can
be identified by their red-tipped antennae. Aphids can be distinguished by two tubelike structures, called
cornicles, protruding from the hind end.
LIFE CYCLE
Females insert tiny eggs in tender plant tissue, causing pimplelike injuries. Wingless nymphs emerge and
molt four or five times before maturing in about 2 to 7 weeks. Leafhoppers overwinter as eggs on twigs or
as adults in protected places such as bark crevices. In cold-winter climates, leafhoppers may die during
winter and in spring migrate back in from warmer regions. Most species have two or more generations each
year.

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DAMAGE

Leafhopper feeding causes leaves to appear stippled, pale, or brown, and shoots may curl and die. Certain
species secrete honeydew on which foliage-blackening sooty mold grows. Foliage can distort, discolor, and
sometimes die. Some species vector pathogens. The aster leafhopper and other species vector the aster
yellows phytoplasma, which infects many flower crops.
MANAGEMENT
Because of their mobility, leafhoppers are difficult to control. Fortunately, control is rarely needed.
Remove alternate hosts to reduce populations. Insecticidal soap or other insecticides applied when
nymphs are small may be used if necessary to reduce populations but will not reduce virus
transmission significantly. For heavy infestation use BIFEN 0.50 ml in 1 liter water. Spray every 15
days. The effect will last for 6 months

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LEAFMINERS
Leafminer Pupua

Leafminer Larva

Leafminer Nymphs

Leafminer Mines

Leafminers attack many different flower hosts, including aster, begonia, dahlia, impatiens, lily, marigold,
petunia, and verbena. Adult are small, active, black and yellow flies. The most important species are the
serpentine leafminer and the pea leafminer. Larvae are yellow cylindrical maggots.
IDENTIFICATION
The adult is a small, shiny black, clear-winged fly about 2.2 to 2.7 mm long. Head entirely black;
mesonotum shining black; pleura and legs entirely black; squamae and fringe silvery white; halteres
variegated, primarily white, but knob with a conspicuous black area above; wing length about 2.2 to 2.7
mm. Larvae are yellowish white, about 3 mm long, and make blotch-like tunnels within leaves where these
larvae are readily visible as they feed.
LIFE CYCLE
In warm weather, leafminers may be more active. The life cycle is only 2 weeks long. Eggs are inserted into
leaves and larvae feed between leaf surfaces, creating a "mine." At high population levels, entire leaves
may be covered with mines. Mature larvae leave the mines, dropping to the ground to pupate. There can
be five to ten generations per year. Development continues all year, the population moving from one host to
another as new host plants become available each season.

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DAMAGE

Adult female leafminers puncture leaves and sometimes petals to feed on exuding sap. These punctures
eventually turn white, giving foliage a stippled or speckled appearance. Larvae make a winding tunnel
(mine) or sometimes a blotch between the lower and upper leaf surface. The mine becomes longer and
wider as the larva grows. Mining usually has little impact on plant growth and rarely kills plants. Unusually
heavy damage can slow plant growth and may cause infested leaves to drop.
MANAGEMENT
Provide proper care, especially irrigation to keep plants vigorous. Clip off and remove older infested leaves.
Plant resistant species or varieties. Leafminers are often kept under good control by natural parasites.
Insecticides are not very effective for leafminer control. For heavy infestation spray 1 ml Cyphermithrin
in 1 liter water or Biflex 0.50 ml in in liter water every 15 days till eradicated.
MEALYBUGS
Mealybug Eggs

Mealybug Nymphs

Mealybug Adult

Mealybug Danmage

Most adult female mealybugs are wingless, soft-bodied, grayish insects about 0.05 to 0.2 inch long. They
are usually elongate and segmented, and may have wax filaments radiating from the body, especially at the
tail. Most females can move slowly and are covered with whitish, mealy or cottony wax. There are several
different species
IDENTIFICATION
The ground mealybug is white and 2.4 to 3.9 millimeters long. It resembles a springtail, but moves much
more slowly and cannot jump. The ground mealybug has slender waxy filaments that form a sort of netting
over some individuals. The ground mealybug also secretes a small amount of wax, which can give the soil
a somewhat bluish appearance when the mealybugs are abundant. Pritchards mealybug is snow white and
1.6 to 2.1 millimeters long and oval. It has small to non-existent eyes.
LIFE CYCLE
Most female mealybugs lay tiny yellow eggs intermixed with white wax in a mass called an ovisac.
Mealybug nymphs are oblong, whitish, yellowish, or reddish and may or may not be covered with waxy
filaments. Most species feed on branches, twigs, or leaves. Depending on the species, host, and climate,
they may overwinter only as eggs or as females, or as all stages. Most mealybugs have several
generations a year.

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DAMAGE

Mealybugs tend to congregate in large numbers, forming white, cottony masses on plants. High populations
slow plant growth and cause premature leaf or fruit drop and twig dieback. Honeydew production and black
sooty mold are the primary damage caused by most mealybugs.
MANAGEMENT
Provide proper cultural control so that plants are vigorous and can tolerate moderate mealybug feeding
without being damaged. Naturally occurring predators and parasites provide good control of many
mealybug species. Chemical control using systemic insecticides like Acephate (1 ml in 1 liter water)
or Biflex (0.50 ml in 1 liter water) to be sprayed on the leaves, stem and the soil.
NEMATODES
Nematodes

Nematodes Damge (Left

Onion Right Bulb)

Nematode Root Damage

Nematode Leaf
Damage Above Ground

Nematodes are microscopic, eel-like roundworms. The most troublesome species in the garden are those
that live and feed within plant roots most of their lives and those that live freely in the soil and feed on plant
roots.
Although there are many different species of root-feeding nematodes, the most damaging ones to gardens
are the root knot nematodes. Root knot nematodes attack a wide range of plants, including many common
vegetables, fruit trees, and ornamentals. They are difficult to control, and they can spread easily from
garden to garden in soil on tools and boots or on infested plants.

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IDENTIFICATION
Since you can not see nematode damage directly (without using a shovel!), you need to rely on visible
symptoms including wilting during the warmest period of the day, chlorosis, stunted growth, and general
lack of vigor. Ornamentals may have branch tip dieback and lose their leaves earlier than normal. And if
you have a large enough area, you may also note that damage is uneven, with affected plants among
healthy ones due to uneven distribution of nematodes.
In general, nematodes don't kill plants (they wouldn't have survived as long as they have if they did). But
they reduce the vigor of the plant and make it more likely to be harmed by other factors. And because the
symptoms are the same ones you see for "traditional" problems, a good rule of thumb is to analyze general
factors such as irrigation, nutrients, and visible symptoms of disease before suspecting nematodes (unless
you know there's a history of nematodes in your soil.
LIFE CYCLE
Plant-feeding nematodes go through 6 stagesan egg stage, 4 immature stages, and an adult stage.
Many species can develop from egg to egg-laying adult in as little as 21 to 28 days during warm summer
months. Immature stages and adult males are long, slender worms. Mature adult females of some species
such as root knot nematode change to a swollen, pearlike shape, whereas females of other species such
as lesion nematode remain slender worms. Nematodes are too small to be seen without a microscope.

DAMAGE

Root knot nematodes usually cause distinctive swellings, called galls, on the roots of affected plants.
Infestations of these nematodes are fairly easy to recognize; dig up a few plants with symptoms (see
below), wash or gently tap the soil from the roots, and examine the roots for galls. The nematodes feed and
develop within the galls, which can grow as large as 1 inch in diameter on some plants but usually are

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much smaller.
The formation of these galls damages the water- and nutrient-conducting abilities of the roots. Galls can
crack or split open, especially on the roots of vegetable plants, allowing the entry of soil-borne, diseasecausing microorganisms. Root knot nematode galls are true swellings and cant be rubbed off the roots as
can the beneficial, nitrogen-fixing nodules on the roots of legumes. Root knot nematodes can feed on the
roots of grasses and certain legumes without causing galling.
Aboveground symptoms of a root knot nematode infestation include wilting during the hottest part of the
day even with adequate soil moisture, loss of vigor, yellowing leaves, and other symptoms similar to a lack
of water or nutrients. Infested vegetable plants grow more slowly than neighboring, healthy plants,
beginning in early to midseason. Plants produce fewer and smaller leaves and fruits, and ones heavily
infested early in the season can die.
Although nematodes can kill annual plants, they rarely kill woody plants. Nematode injury to woody plants
usually is less obvious and often more difficult to diagnose. Infested fruit and nut trees can have reduced
growth and yields. Woody landscape plants that are heavily infested can have reduced growth and branch
tip dieback and can defoliate earlier than normal.
MANAGEMENT
Management of nematodes is difficult. The most reliable practices are preventive, including sanitation and
choice of plant varieties. You can reduce existing infestations through fallowing, crop rotation, and soil
solarization. However, these methods reduce nematodes primarily in the top foot or so of the soil, so they
are effective only for about a year. They are suitable primarily for annual plants or to help young woody
plants establish. Once nematodes infest an area or crop, try to minimize damage by adjusting planting
dates to cooler times of the season when nematodes are less active. Try to provide optimal conditions for
plant growth including sufficient irrigation and soil amendments to make plants more tolerant to nematode
infestation. Chemical treatment is carried out by applying 0.50 ml of Biflex in 1 liter of water in the
soil after digging it. This lasts for 6 months.
SCALE
Scale Eggs
Scale Adult
Scale Colony
Scale Damage Orange
Leaf Curl

Scale insects can be serious pests on trees, shrubs, and other perennials. The impact of infestations
depends on the scale species, the plant species and cultivar, environmental factors, and natural enemies.
Populations of some scales can increase dramatically within a few months, such as when honeydewseeking ants or dusty conditions interfere with scale natural enemies. Plants are not harmed by a few
scales, and even high populations of certain species apparently do not damage plants. Soft scales and
some other species excrete honeydew, a sweet, sticky liquid produced by insects that ingest large
quantities of plant sap. Sticky honeydew and the blackish sooty mold growing on honeydew can bother
people even when scale populations are not harming plants.

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IDENTIFICATION

Scales are unusual looking and many people do not at first recognize them as insects. Adult female scales
and most immatures (nymphs) are immobile, wingless, and lack a separate head or other recognizable
body parts. Immature scales and adult females have a characteristic round or oval to elongate and
flattened or humped appearance. Immature males are often a different color and shape than females,
especially in later nymphal stages (instars). Adult male scales are tiny, delicate insects with one pair of
wings. Adult males are rarely seen, do not feed, and live only a few hours.
LIFE CYCLE

Females of many scale species reproduce without mating (there are no males). At maturity, adult females
produce eggs that are usually hidden under her body or cover. Eggs hatch into tiny crawlers (mobile firstinstar nymphs), which are yellow to orangish in most species. Crawlers walk over the plant surface, are
blown by wind to other plants, or can be inadvertently moved by people or birds. They settle down and
begin feeding within a day or two after emergence.
Settled nymphs may spend their entire life in the same spot without moving as they mature into adults.
Nymphs of other species can move slowly but rarely do, such as when species that feed on deciduous
hosts move from foliage to bark in the fall before leaves drop. For species with multiple generations, all
scale life stages may be present throughout the year in areas with mild winters.
Armored Scales. Most armored scales have several generations a year. Armored scales overwinter
primarily as first-instar nymphs and adult females. Except for crawlers and adult males, armored scales
spend their entire life feeding at the same spot. Settled armored scales lose their legs, molt, and form their
characteristic covers, which they gradually enlarge as they grow.
Soft Scales. Most soft scales have one generation each year and overwinter as second-instar nymphs.
The multi-generational brown soft scale is an important exception Brown soft scale females and nymphs of
various size can be present throughout the year. Most immature soft scales retain their barely visible legs
and antennae after settling and are able to move, although slowly. At maturity, females of certain soft
scales, the woolly sac scales (Margarodidae), and some other species produce distinct external cottony or
wax-covered egg masses.

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DAMAGE

When plants are heavily infested with scales, leaves may look wilted, turn yellow, and drop prematurely.
Scales sometimes curl leaves or cause deformed blemishes or discolored halos in fruit, leaves, or twigs.
Bark infested with armored scales may crack and exude gum. Certain armored scales also feed on fruit, but
this damage is often just aesthetic. Soft scales infest leaves and twigs but rarely feed on fruit. A major
concern with soft scales is their excretion of abundant honeydew, which contaminates fruit, leaves, and
surfaces beneath plants. Honeydew encourages the growth of black sooty mold and attracts ants, which in
turn protect scales from natural enemies.
MANAGEMENT

Scales are often well controlled by beneficial predators and parasites, except when these natural enemies
are disrupted by ants, dust, or application of persistent broad-spectrum insecticides. Preserving
(conserving) the populations of parasites and predators (such as by controlling pest-tending ants) may be
enough to bring about gradual control of scales as natural enemies become more abundant. If scales
become too numerous, a well-timed and thorough spray using horticultural (narrow-range) oil applied either
during the dormant season or soon after scale crawlers are active in late winter to early summer should
provide good control. Complete spray coverage of infested plants (such as the underside of leaves) is
needed to obtain good control. Thorough spray coverage is especially critical when treating armored scales
and oak pit scales, as these scales are generally less susceptible to pesticides than soft scales.
In case of severe infetstaion Chemical Control should be applied. Application of 0.50 ml Biflex or
Imidacloprid in 1 liter water is very effective and lasts for 6 months. This can be used as a foliar
spray or as a soil application.
THRIPS
Thrips Eggs

Thrips Larva

Thrips Nymphs

Thrips Rose Bud

Damage

Thrips, are tiny, slender insects with fringed wings. They feed by puncturing their host and sucking out the
cell contents. Certain thrips species are beneficial predators that feed only on mites and other insects.
Beneficial species include black hunter thrips and the sixspotted thrips. Pest species (often in the family
Thripidae) are plant feeders that scar leaf, flower, or fruit surfaces or distort plant parts. Other species of
thrips feed on fungal spores and pollen and are innocuous.
IDENTIFICATION

Most adult thrips are slender, minute (less than 1/20 inch long), and have long fringes on the margins of
both pairs of their long, narrow wings. Immatures (called larvae or nymphs) are similarly shaped with a
long, narrow abdomen but lack wings. Most thrips range in color from translucent white or yellowish to dark
brown or blackish, depending on the species and life stage. A few species are more brightly colored, such
as the distinctive reddish orange abdomen of larvae of the predatory thrips.
In many species, thrips feed within buds and furled leaves or in other enclosed parts of the plant. Their
damage is often observed before the thrips are seen. Discolored or distorted plant tissue or black specks of

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feces around stippled leaf surfaces are clues that thrips are or were present. However, some abiotic
disorders, pathogens, and certain other invertebrates can cause damage resembling that of thrips. For
example, lace bugs, plant bugs, and mites also stipple foliage, and lace bugs and certain plant bugs
produce dark, watery fecal specks. Look carefully for the insects themselves to be certain that pest thrips
are present and the cause of damage before taking control action.
Thrips are poor fliers but can readily spread long distances by floating with the wind or being transported on
infested plants.
LIFE CYCLE

The thrips life cycle includes the egg, two actively feeding larval (nymphal) stages, nonfeeding prepupal
(propupal) and pupal stages, and the adult. Thrips have a metamorphosis that is intermediate between
complete and gradual. Last-instar larvae change greatly in appearance, and they are often called pupae
even though thrips do not have a true pupal stage.
Thrips eggs are elongate, cylindrical to kidney-shaped, and relatively large in relation to the female.
Females of most plant-feeding species insert their tiny eggs into plants, commonly into leaves or buds
where larvae feed. The pale prepupae and pupae of most species drop to the soil or leaf litter or lodge
within plant crevices. Greenhouse thrips pupate openly on lower leaf surfaces while pupae (and eggs) of
some gall-making species, such as Cuban laurel thrips, occur on leaf surfaces but are enclosed within
distorted plant tissue. Thrips have several generations (up to eight or more) a year. The life cycle from egg
to adult may be completed in as short a time as 2 weeks when the weather is warm.

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DAMAGE

Thrips prefer to feed in rapidly growing tissue. Feeding by thrips typically causes tiny scars on leaves and
fruit, called stippling, and can stunt growth. Damaged leaves may become papery and distorted. Infested
terminals may discolor, become rolled, and drop leaves prematurely. Petals may exhibit color break,
which is pale or dark discoloring of petal tissue that was killed by thrips feeding before buds opened. Thrips
cause silvery to brownish, scabby scarring on the avocado and citrus fruit surface, but this cosmetic
damage does not harm the internal fruit quality. Feces may remain on leaves or fruit long after thrips have
left. Where thrips lay eggs on grapes, dark scars surrounded by lighter halos may be found on the fruit.
Thrips feeding on raspberries, apples, and nectarines can deform or scar developing fruit; sugar pea pods
may be scarred or deformed. Citrus thrips feeding severely distorts blueberry shoot tips and foliage,
reducing fruit yield.
In comparison with woody shrubs and trees in landscapes, herbaceous ornamentals and certain fruit and
vegetable crops are generally more susceptible to serious injury from thrips feeding and thrips-vectored
viruses, especially when plants are young. Thrips feeding on woody plants can damage fruit and very
noticeably affect plants cosmetic appearance. But thrips rarely kill or threaten the survival of woody plants
unless the thrips populations are very high and cause serious feeding damage resulting in premature leaf
drop or stem dieback.
MANAGEMENT

Healthy woody plants usually tolerate thrips damage; however, high infestations on certain herbaceous
ornamentals and developing fruits or vegetables may justify control. If control is necessary, use an
integrated program of control strategies that combines the use of good cultural practices and conservation
of natural enemies with the use of least-toxic insecticides, such as narrow-range oils. In case of heavy
infestation uses of chemical insecticides become necessary. Spray CPP, Cypermithrin or Acephate 1 ml
in 1 liter water every 15 days till eradicated. Use of Biflerx or Imidacloprid 0.50 ml in in liter water
will last for 6 months.
STINK BUGS
Stink Bug Laying Eggs
Stink Bug Nymphs
Stink Bug Adult Brown
Stink Bug Adult Green

The Stink Bug is also known as a shield bug because of the shield-like shape of its body. It also gets its
name from the pungent odor it emits when squashed, jostled, cornered, scared or injured. In large groups,
stink bugs are considered agricultural pests because they suck juices from their host plants and cause
damage to crops.
The four species of stink bugs are considered to be beneficial instead of pests:
The Anchor Bug preys upon the Mexican bean beetle, Japanese beetle and other insects; the Two Spotted
Stink Bug preys upon Colorado beetle larvae; the Spined Soldier bug feeds on caterpillars and other slow
moving arthropods; the Arboreal Stink Bug patrols tree trunks for ants and insects.
IDENTIFICATION
True Stinkbugs usually have thickened forewings with membranous tips. When they rest, the dissimilar
parts of their folded wings overlap. Most stink bugs can be recognised by the characteristic triangle or X-

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shape on the back formed by their folded wings. True bugs have sucking mouthparts, which on plantfeeding species point downward, perpendicular to the plane of the insect's body
LIFE CYCLE

Adult Brown Stink Bugs mate in early spring and females lay a mass of eggs weekly under the leaves of
the host plant. She can lay up to 400 eggs in her lifetime. Eggs are light yellow to yellowish red. Nymphs
are tick-like in appearance. They go through five nymphal instars before becoming adults and have red
eyes and an abdomen that changes color during each of the instars.
Stink bugs hibernate during cold winter months and will emerge in the spring as temperatures rise. Adults
mate in the spring and females will lay eggs on plants. These eggs will be laid in groups and are not plant
specific.
Young will go through 5 stages to reach adulthood and this will occur in about three months.

DAMAGE
As a pest, the Brown Stink Bug will attack apples, cherries, raspberries, peaches, figs, mulberries, citrus
fruits and persimmons. Feeding on fruit trees causes "cat facing" which will damage the fruit. They have
also been found on ornamental plants, weeds, soybeans and green beans. The Brown Stink Bug will over
winter in homes entering through small openings in windows and door frames, under roof shingles, in crawl
spaces and attics.
MANAGEMENT

Chemical control spray Cypermithrin or Deltamethrin, 1 ml in 1 liter water.

Experts say that the best stink bug control is prevention. Those worried about stink bug infestation can start
by keeping the yard clean of any unnecessary plants. Weeds and overgrown bushes should be taken care
so stink bugs will not have any place to feed or lay eggs.

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To prevent a stink bug invasion, all holes, cracks and crevices around house should be tightly sealed with
calk. The bugs are also known for using the attic and air conditioner to get inside the house. During fall,
before they migrate inside the house, it is best to treat the exterior and attic of the house with multi-purpose
insecticide such as Biflex 0.50 ml in 1 liter water.. Window a/c unit should be removed and the windows
seal properly.
Two popular pest control options: Permethrin is a pest repellant that paralyzes the nervous system of many
insects and kills all stages of the insects growth. Imdeachlorprid 0.50 ml in 1 liter water. This will keep the
stinkbugs away for 6 months.
WEEVILS
Weevil Eggs

Weevil Pupa (above) &

Larva Below

Weevil Adult

Weevil Citrus Damage

Weevils feed on many flower hosts, including aster, begonia, carnation, chrysanthemum, dahlia, geranium,
impatiens, lily, primrose, and vinca. Weevils are inconspicuous. Larvae are whitish or green grubs and live
in soil. Adults are dull gray, blackish, or brown and feed at night, hiding in litter during the day. The head of
adult weevils is elongated into a snout and their antennae are elbowed and clubbed. Adults do not fly.
IDENTIFICATION

There are more than 1,000 species of weevils or snout beetles in California. The most common pest weevil
species in California is the black vine weevil,.Other important species include the cribrate weevil, , fuller
rose beetle, obscure root weevil, strawberry root weevil, vegetable weevil, and the woods weevil.The adult
weevils have a snout and are about one-fourth inch long. They vary from reddish-brown to gray to almost
black in color. A distinguishing feature is the presence of two spurs on the front femur of each leg. The
adult weevil is usually dull in color and herbivorous, characterized by a prolongation of the anterior part of
the head into a rostrum (a beaklike extension). The apex of the rostrum contains the biting mouthparts, and
two clubbed antennae are attached in depressions at each side. The oval body is covered with a rough,
hard integument, and a single median suture traverses the lower part of the head. Weevils exhibit complete
metamorphosis; the larvae are white, semicircular, fleshy grubs with vestigial legs, strong jaws, and
rudimentary eyes; they feed entirely on plant life, causing much damage to crops. The adults usually
hibernate for most of the winter.
LIFE CYCLE
Adult weevils spend the winter in ground trash near old cotton fields. Each female can lay up to 200 eggs (laying
each egg in a separate cotton square or boll). The entire life cycle of egg to adult can be completed in 3 weeks or
less. There are multiple (5 or more) generations per year.

Females can produce eggs without mating, commonly laying them on or into soil near host plants. The
female adults must feed for about a month before laying eggs. The larvae develop in soil through 6 instars
over a period of 2 to 8 months. They are whitish grubs with a brown head and commonly have a C-shaped
posture.

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Black vine weevil overwinters primarily as a late-instar larva. A few individuals of this and other species can
overwinter as adults. Weevils overwintering as late instars form pupae in spring. Adults emerge from the
soil about 2 weeks after pupation and begin feeding during the night.
DAMAGE
Adult weevils chew foliage, causing characteristic notching on leaf edges. The serious damage is caused
by larvae. Young larvae chew the outer surface of young roots. More mature larvae chew older roots and
basal stems, girdling plants near the soil surface and causing decline in mature plants and death in young
plants.
MANAGEMENT

Destroy adults to prevent more serious damage. Grow species or cultivars that are less susceptible to
weevil damage, and avoid replanting susceptible crops at infested sites. Grow older plants that are more
likely to be infested away from younger plants susceptible to weevils. Provide cultural care to keep plants
vigorous and better able to tolerate damage. Check roots before planting to make sure they are free from
larvae. Trim branches that provide a bridge to other plants or the ground and apply a 6-inch band of sticky
material to trunks to prevent flightless beetles from feeding on foliage. Application of Cypermithrin or
Deltamithrin or CPP 1ml in 1liter water spray applied to leaves can control adults.
WHITEFLIES
White Flies Eggs

White Flies Pupa

White Flies Larva

White Flies Colony

The silverleaf whitefly is slightly smaller (about 0.96 mm in the female and 0.82 mm in the male) and
slightly yellower than most other whitefly pests of flowers. The head is broad at the antennae and narrow
towards the mouth parts. The wings are held roof-like at about a 45 angle, whereas other whiteflies
usually hold the wings nearly flat over the body. Hence, the silverleaf whitefly appears more slender than
other common whiteflies.
Whiteflies are tiny, sap-sucking insects that are frequently abundant in vegetable and ornamental plantings.
They excrete sticky honeydew and cause yellowing or death of leaves. Outbreaks often occur when the
natural biological control is disrupted. Management is difficult.
IDENTIFICATION

Whiteflies usually occur in groups on the undersides of leaves. They derive their name from the mealy,
white wax covering the adults wings and body. Adults are tiny insects with yellowish bodies and whitish
wings. Although adults of some species have distinctive wing markings, many species are most readily
distinguished in the last nymphal (immature) stage, which is wingless.
LIFE CYCLE

whiteflies that were undoubtedly silverleaf whiteflies. Developmental times from egg deposition to adult
emergence appears to be primarily controlled by temperature, humidity, and host plant. These times will
vary from 16 to 38 days depending on these factors. The number of eggs laid by each female over her
lifetime varies considerably, but appears to be around 80 to 100. Crawlers hatch from the eggs and crawl
about until they insert threadlike mouthparts into the underside of the leaf to feed. They tuck their legs and

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antennae underneath and settle down closely to the leaf surface.

Crawlers molt into scale like nymphs that also suck out sap. Nymphs molt a second and third time. The
fourth stage eventually becomes a non-feeding pupa. The adult whitefly develops within the pupa. Adults
emerge from the pupa through a T-shaped slit about a month from the time the egg was laid. Females live
about two weeks
The eggs are inserted on end in the undersides of new leaves. The eggs are whitish to light beige with the
apex tending to be slightly darker.
Nymphs: The nymphal stages appear glassy to opaque yellowish and may or may not have dorsal spines,
depending on leaf characteristics. The body is flattened and scale-like with the margin relatively near the
leaf surface. There is not a marginal palisade of waxy spines.
Pupae: The pupa or fourth nymphal instar will be somewhat darker beigeish-yellow and opaque and 0.6 to
0.8 mm long. Pupae are relatively more plump compared to previous nymphal stages. The apex of anterior
and caudal spiracular furrows have smalls amount of white wax deposits. The caudal setae are prominent,
and the caudal end is somewhat acute. Dorsal spines are present when the host leaf is hairy and absent
when the host leaf is smooth.

DAMAGE
Direct damage is caused by the removal of sap, and indirect damage as a disease vector. The silverleaf
whitefly is a vector for several important virus diseases of lettuce and melons in the southwestern United
States. Both the adult and nymphal stages contribute to direct damage. Chlorotic spots sometimes appear
at the feeding sites on leaves, and heavy infestations cause leaves of cucurbits and stems of poinsettias to
blanch and wilt. The excretion of honeydew and the subsequent development of sooty mold fungi also

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reduces the appearance, photosynthesis, and other physiological functions of the plant. Even though the
silverleaf whitefly is considered an economic pest, economic thresholds have not been generated for this
pest on ornamental plants.
Whiteflies suck phloem sap. Large populations can cause leaves to turn yellow, appear dry, or fall off
plants. Like aphids, whiteflies excrete honeydew, so leaves may be sticky or covered with black sooty mold.
The honeydew attracts ants, which interfere with the activities of natural enemies that may control whiteflies
and other pests.
Feeding by the immature silverleaf whitefly can cause plant distortion, discoloration, or silvering of leaves
and may cause serious losses in some vegetable crops. Some whiteflies transmit viruses to certain
vegetable crops. With the notable exception of the citrus whitefly, whiteflies are not normally a problem in
fruit trees, but several whiteflies can be problems on ornamental trees . Low levels of whiteflies are not
usually damaging. Adults by themselves will not cause significant damage unless they are transmitting a
plant pathogen. Generally, plant losses do not occur unless there is a significant population of whitefly
nymphs.
MANAGEMENT
Control of silverleaf whiteflies is difficult because the eggs and older immature forms are resistant to many aerosol
and insecticide sprays (in addition, the adults are extremely resistant to dry pesticide residue). For good control, the
pesticide mixture must be directed to the lower leaf surface where all stages of the whiteflies naturally occur. One
must make regular applications of pesticides to control crawlers and second stage nymphs until the last of a whole
generation of immature whiteflies has hatched. However, some of the pyrethroid pesticides are somewhat more
effective and need not be applied as often.

The best strategy is to prevent problems from developing in your garden to the extent possible. In many
situations, natural enemies will provide adequate control of whiteflies; outbreaks may occur if natural
enemies that provide biological control of whiteflies are disrupted by insecticide applications, dusty
conditions, or interference by ants. Avoid or remove plants that repeatedly host high populations of
whiteflies. In gardens, whitefly populations in the early stages of population development can be held down
by a vigilant program of removing infested leaves, vacuuming adults, or hosing down (syringing) with water
sprays. Aluminum foil or reflective mulches can repel whiteflies from vegetable gardens and sticky traps
can be used to monitor or, at high levels, reduce whitefly numbers. If you choose to use insecticides,
insecticidal soaps or oils such as neem oil may reduce but not eliminate populations. Chemical insecticides
like Biflex and Imidachlorprid spray 0.50 ml in 1 liter water will control it for 6 months.
POWDERY MILDEW
Powdery Mildew Rose
Damage

Powdery Mildew Squash

Damage

Powdery Mildew
Ornimental Damage

Powdery Mildew
Damage

Powdery mildew is a common disease on many types of plants and is prevalent under the diverse
conditions found in many areas India. Different powdery mildew fungi cause disease on different plants.

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These fungi tend to infect either plants in the same family or only one species of plant.
IDENTIFICATION AND DAMAGE
You can recognize this disease by the white, powdery spore growth that forms on leaf surfaces and shoots
and sometimes on flowers and fruits. Powdery mildews may infect new or old foliage. This disease can be
serious on woody species such as rose, crape myrtle, and sycamore where it attacks new growth including
buds, shoots, flowers, and leaves. New growth may be dwarfed, distorted, and covered with a white,
powdery growth. Infected leaves generally free moisture.
Wind carries powdery mildew spores to new hosts. Although relative humidity requirements for germination
vary, all powdery mildew species can germinate and infect in the absence of free water. In fact, water on
plant surfaces for extended periods inhibits germination and kills the spores of most powdery mildew fungi.
Moderate temperatures of 60 to 80F and shady conditions generally are the most favorable for powdery
mildew development. Powdery mildew spores and mycelium are sensitive to extreme heat and sunlight,
and leaf temperatures above 95F may kill the fungus. die and drop from the plant earlier than healthy
leaves.
LIFE CYCLE

All powdery mildew fungi require living plant tissue to grow. On perennial hosts such as roses, powdery
mildew survives from one season to the next as vegetative strands in buds or as spherical fruiting bodies,
called chasmothecia, on the bark of branches and stems.
Most powdery mildew fungi grow as thin layers of mycelium on the surface of the affected plant parts.
Spores, which you can see with a hand lens, are part of the white, powdery appearance of this fungi and
are produced in chains on upper or lower leaf surfaces or on flowers, fruits, or herbaceous stems. In
contrast, downy mildew, another fungal disease that produces visible powdery growth, has spores that
grow on branched stalks and look like tiny trees.

MANAGEMENT

The best method of control is prevention. Avoiding the most susceptible cultivars, placing plants in full sun,
and following good cultural practices will adequately control powdery mildew in many situations. Some
ornamentals do require protection with fungicide sprays if mildew conditions are more favorable, especially

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susceptible varieties of rose.

Fungicide Applications
In some situations, especially when growing roses, you may need to use fungicides, which function as
protectants, eradicants, or both. A protectant fungicide prevents new infections from occurring, whereas an
eradicant can kill an existing infection. Apply protectant fungicides to highly susceptible plants before the
disease appears. Use eradicants at the earliest signs of the disease. Once mildew growth is extensive,
controlling the situation with any fungicide becomes more difficult.
Fungicides. Several least-toxic fungicides are available, including horticultural oils, neem oil, jojoba oil,
sulfur, potassium bicarbonate, and the biological fungicide Serenade. With the exception of the oils, these
materials are primarily preventive, although potassium bicarbonate has some eradicant activity. Oils work
best as eradicants but also have some protectant activity.
Oils. To eradicate mild to heavy powdery mildew infections, use a horticultural oil such as JMS Stylet Oil,
Saf-T-Side Spray Oil, Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil, or one of the plant-based oils such as neem oil or
jojoba oil. Be careful, however, never to apply an oil spray within 2 weeks of a sulfur spray, or it may injure
plants. Also, you never should apply oils when temperatures are above 90F or to water-stressed plants.
Some plants may be more sensitive than others, and the interval required between sulfur and oil sprays
may need to be even longer.
Sulfur products have been used to manage powdery mildew for centuries but are effective only when
applied before the disease appears. The best sulfur products to use for powdery mildew control in gardens
are wettable sulfurs that are specially formulated with surfactants similar to those in dishwashing detergent
(e.g., Safer Garden Fungicide). However, you shouldnt use dishwashing detergent with sulfur. Additionally,
sulfur can damage some ornamental cultivars. To avoid injuring any plant, do not apply sulfur when the
temperature is near or higher than 90F, and do not apply it within 2 weeks of an oil spray. Other sulfur
products, such as liquid lime sulfur or sulfur dust, are much more difficult to use, irritate skin and eyes, and
are limited in the types plants you safely can use them on.
Biological fungicides are commercially available beneficial microorganisms formulated into a product that,
when sprayed on the plant, destroys fungal pathogens. These products have some effect in killing the
powdery mildew organism but are not as effective as the oils or sulfur in controlling it.
How to Use. Apply protectant fungicides to susceptible plants before or in the earliest stages of disease
development. Once mildew growth is mild to moderate, it generally is too late for effective control with
protectant fungicides. These are effective only on contact, so applications must thoroughly cover all
susceptible plant parts. As plants grow and produce new tissue, additional applications may be necessary
at 7- to 10-day intervals as long as conditions favor disease growth.
If mild to moderate powdery mildew is present, you can use horticultural and plant-based oils such as neem
or jojoba oil.

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DOWNEY MILDEW
Downey Mildew
Damage

Downey Mildew Spots

Damage

Downey Mildew Below

Leaf Damage

Powdery Mildew
Damage

Downy mildews have gained a strong foothold in the horticultural industry. They are currently
causing serious losses in many floricultural crops including rose, cut and bedding plant, pansy, viola,
alyssum, salvia, and rosemary. Despite the sound-alike name of the powdery mildews, the two groups of
fungi have little in common, attacking different plants, under very different conditions. Downy mildew
diseases thrive when the weather conditions are wet and cool. Most of the fungi that cause these diseases
are host specific, attacking only one kind of plant. The fungus that causes downy mildew on roses cannot
cause the disease on snapdragons and visa versa. The fungus that causes downy mildew on violas causes
the same disease on pansies as the two plants are very closely related. Some of the downy mildews are
more aggressive than others. For example, downy mildew on snapdragons appears to spread much faster
and cause more serious losses quickly than the downy mildew on pansy and viola. Since the fungus grows
within the plant tissues and not on the surface it can escape
notice until the conditions are ideal for sporulation. At this time, the fruiting structures of the fungus emerge
from the undersides of leaves and create the grayish-colored, downy coating. On some plants, this may be
the first indication that they are infected with a downy mildew fungus. In other plants, distortion of new
leaves, downward curling and overall stunting occur which can mimic aphid damage. In contrast, roses
develop reddish-black spots on leaves, petals, and stems, well in advance of sporulation.
LIFE CYCLE

Some downy mildew diseases are known to start from contaminated seed (sunflowers) but most have not
been proven to be seed-borne as yet (snapdragon). In addition, there are many weed hosts of certain
downy mildew fungi which attack cultivated crops and some epidemics start on weeds around the
production area. Rose downy mildew sometimes starts on bare-rooted, apparently healthy stock. Rose
canes infected with the fungus may not be obvious and symptoms may appear only when environmental
conditions are ideal. Since exposure of spores to 80 F for 24 hours kills them, a heat treatment of canes,
seeds or other propagation stock, might be effective. Killing the pathogen within the plant would be more
difficult and the temperatures needed might damage the plant as well.
ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNS
Downy mildew is most severe when nights are cool and days are warmer with high relative humidities.
Humidity management is sometimes possible and always desirable when growing plants in a greenhouse.
It is critical to keep the relative humidity below 85% to decrease sporulation on infected plants and stop
germination of spores on healthy plants.
This can be done in greenhouses by venting and raising the temperature at key times during the day,
especially at sunset when the greenhouse air is warm and moisture laden and the outside air is cool and
drier. Venting followed by heating will fill the greenhouse with warmer, drier air. Fans can speed leaf drying
but also spread downy mildew spores. Other methods (perhaps fungicides or removing infected plants)
should be used in combination with fans to minimize disease spread. The optimal temperature for
development of rose downy mildew is 64 F and snapdragon downy mildew develops best with

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temperatures between 40 and 60 F. Temperature optima for other ornamental downy mildew fungi are not
known at this time. A few of those known for non-ornamental crops include: crucifers (45-60 F), lettuce (5070 F), and soybean (50-80 F). Thus, although the temperatures are close, they are not identical and each
disease must be studied to determine the optimal range for that spores on plants in the trash pile. Place
plants in plastic trash bags as they are collected from the growing area to keep spores from being
dislodged and spread in air currents.
MANAGEMENT

Sanitation requirements for downy mildew diseases are stringent. Infected plant tissues such as leaves,
stems and flowers may drop to the ground where the spores can remain viable for various periods of time.
Remove all infected plants and discard well away from your production area. If you collect debris in a pile
close to production you may continue to experience new infections starting with formation of spores on
plants in the trash pile. Place plants in plastic trash bags as they are collected from the growing area to
keep spores from being dislodged and spread in air currents.
USE OF FUNGICIDES
The most important thing about using a fungicide for downy mildew control is to recognize the
relationship between these fungi and other plant pathogens. The fungicides which are effective for water
molds have the best activity against the downy mildew fungi as well. Fungicides have been tested for
control of downy mildew on roses throughout the world. In general, dithiocarbamates (such as Dithane and
sulfur dusts, and sometimes copper products have been recommended.
TIPS - SPECIAL PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS
Balled and Bur lapped
1. Check the material of the Burlap. If it is natural burlap, it may remain on the
root ball to decompose.
2. If it is plastic or non-biodegradable, then the burlap should be removed very
carefully prior to planting.
3. Do not allow the root ball to dry out before planting.
4. When planting, loosen the top of the burlap and fold it into the soil to avoid the
root ball from drying in the sun.
Bare Root
1. Do not allow roots to dry out - keep moist at all times, from purchase to
planting.
2. Prepare planting site by digging wide, not deep, and lightly amending heavy clay
or sandy soils.
3. Spread roots out evenly so they don't go in one direction.
4. Take care to plant at the same depth as the plant was growing in the nursery as
evidenced by coloration in the stem above roots.
Biodegradable Containers
1. Prepare soil as for other container grown plants.
2. While planting, tear off the exposed rim of the pot to prevent it from becoming a
"wick" (exposed to the sun that can draw moisture from roots)
Cuttings
4. Prepare garden soil or pots of potting soil, and moisten before planting.
5. Stick rooted or uprooted cuttings into the moist soil. Cover the soil surface with
mulch to keep soil moist and cool
6. Keep moist, not wet, for several weeks until cuttings root into new soil.
NOTE: Some annual cuttings root readily from stem cuttings
stuck in moist potting soil.
Some annuals, including coleus and tomatoes, root
readily from stem cuttings in water.

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COMMON GARDENING MISTAKES

Today we will look at the top seven mistakes committed by
inexperienced or uninformed organic gardeners. Be not making
these simple mistakes you are already putting yourself ahead of
the pack.
1. The most common mistake made is planting a garden in an
area that doesn't receive sufficient sunlight. Most vegetable
plants need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight every day.
Therefore you need to choose an area that gets both morning and
afternoon sun. If you have trees nearby, it may be a good idea to
remove them or prune them back if they are blocking your
garden.
2. Planting your crops too close together. When seeds are sown,
or transplants are planted everything is small, and there is a lot
of open space. It is common to try to plant closer than the
recommended spacing to get more output per a limited space. In
fact you may decrease your output, as plants that can't get
proper air circulation are more susceptible to disease. Additionally
larger plants will grow taller than smaller plants and shade them
out.
3. Purchasing cheap transplants. While you might save a few
pennies buying transplants at a discount store, you are better off
buying at a reputable nursery. Sick plants will struggle all season.
It is best to get started on the right foot.
4. Not watering properly. Both over watering and under watering
are a problem. If you let the plants get too wet it is a recipe for
disease. If they get too dry they will wilt. The key is frequent
consistent watering. In the beginning of the season a light
watering will due. But as the season progresses, deep watering is
required to encourage deep root growth. Plants with deep roots
will survive a dry spell much easier than plants with a shallow
root system.

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5. Planting varieties of vegetables or fruits that aren't a good

match for your climate. Not all vegetables and plants grow
vigorously in all climates. The best way to select the varieties that
will thrive in your area is to contact your local extension agency.
They will have a listing of recommended varieties. Most reputable
nurseries will also only sell varieties that will thrive in the local
climate. While I would love to grow citrus plants, our cool climate
will not allow for this.
6. Over fertilizing. While fertilizer is a good thing, too much of it
can be a bad thing. Over fertilizing will lead to foliage growth but
at the same time not increase produce output. So you will have
tall stringy plants that can't support the vegetables that are
growing on them. A well composted garden at the beginning of
the season will surely reduce your need for fertilizers during the
season.
7. Don't plant more than you can care for. If you don't have the
time to pick your vegetables, water the garden, and fertilize the
garden, don't get carried away. Start small and only grow what
you need. Vegetables that aren't picked when they are ripe will
rot and be a magnet for insects and disease. This goes back to
the saying "one bad apple spoils the whole bunch".

TIPS Potted Plants In To Garden Soil

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Planting Container-grown Plant into Garden Soil.

Prepare soil by digging deep and adding any amendments (if needed).
Make holes in prepared soil large enough to set the plant roots into.
Remove plants from pots, holding by soil or leaves, not plant stems.
Gently squeeze the root ball to loosen roots on the bottom and edges so
they can start growing outward.
Set plants so the tops of their roots are level with soil around them.
Lightly pack prepared soil around roots.
Cover the area with mulch to protect from sun and packing rain.
Water slowly and deeply every few days to get roots established without
rotting.

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COMPOST THE IDEAL PLANT FOOD

Why is compost special?
Building and maintaining a compost pile is the surest, easiest way
to become a better gardener. Not only will you be producing the
best possible food for your garden, but by watching leaves,
eggshells, orange rinds, and grass clippings become transformed
into rich compost filled with earthworms and other soil creatures,
you'll be learning what healthy soil is all about.
Compost is a rich and crumbly blend of partially decomposed
organic material that does wonderful things for your garden.
Compost improves soil structure. Most gardeners do not start
with great soil. Whether yours is hard and compacted, sandy,
stony, heavy, or wet, adding compost will improve its texture,
water-holding capacity, and fertility. Your soil will gradually
become fluffy and brown, the ideal home for healthy plants.
Compost provides a balanced source of plant nutrients.
Even if you are lucky enough to have great soil, you can not
expect that soil to remain rich and productive without
replenishing the nutrients that are consumed each growing
season. No commercial fertilizer, even one that is totally organic,
provides the full spectrum of nutrients that you get with compost.
The nutrients are available gradually, as your plants need them,
over a period of months or years. The microorganisms in the
compost will also help your plants absorb nutrients from fertilizers
more efficiently.
Compost stimulates beneficial organisms. Compost is
teeming with all kinds of microorganisms and soil fauna that help
convert soil nutrients into a form that can be readily absorbed by
your plants. The microorganisms, enzymes, vitamins and natural
antibiotics that are present in compost actually help prevent
many soil pathogens from harming your plants. Earthworms,
millipedes, and other macro-organisms tunnel through your soil,

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opening up passageways for air and water to reach your plants'

roots.
Compost is garden insurance. Even very experienced
gardeners often have soil that is less than perfect. Adding
compost moderates pH and fertility problems, so you can
concentrate on the pleasures of gardening, not the science of
your soils chemical composition. Unlike organic or inorganic
fertilizers, which need to be applied at the right time and in the
right amount, compost can be applied at any time and in any
amount. You can not really over-apply it. Plants use exactly what
they need, when they need it.
Can a gardener ever have enough compost? It's doubtful.
Compost is the perfect thing to spread around when you are
creating a new garden, seeding a new lawn area, or planting a
new tree. Compost can be sprinkled around plants during the
growing season or used as mulch in your perennial gardens. You
can add
How compost is made - Organic matter is transformed into
compost through the work of microorganisms, soil fauna,
enzymes and fungi. When making compost, your job is to provide
the best possible environment for these beneficial organisms to
do their work. If you do so, the decomposition process works very
rapidly, sometimes in as little as two weeks! If you don not
provide the optimum environment, decomposition will still
happen, but it may take from several months to several years.
The trick to making an abundance of compost in a short time is to
balance the following four things:
Carbon. Carbon-rich materials are the energy food for
microorganisms. You can identify high-carbon plant materials
because they are dry, tough, or fibrous, and tan or brown in
color. Examples are dry leaves, straw, rotted hay, sawdust,
shredded paper, and cornstalks.

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Nitrogen. High-nitrogen materials provide the protein-rich

components that microorganisms require to grow and multiply.
Freshly pulled weeds, fresh grass clippings, over-ripe fruits and
vegetables, kitchen scraps and other moist green matter are the
sorts of nitrogen-rich materials you'll probably have on hand.
Other high-protein organic matter includes kelp meal, seaweed,
manure and animal by-products like blood or bone meal.
Water. Moisture is very important for the composting process.
But too much moisture will drown the microorganisms, and too
little will dehydrate them. A general rule of thumb is to keep the
material in your compost pile as moist as a well-wrung sponge. If
you need to add water (un-chlorinated is best), insert your
garden hose into the middle of the pile in several places, or
sprinkle the pile with water next time you turn it. Using an
enclosed container or covering your pile with a tarp will make it
easier to maintain the right moisture level.
Oxygen. To do their work most efficiently, microorganisms
require a lot of oxygen. When your pile is first assembled, there
will probably be plenty of air between the layers of materials. But
as the microorganisms begin to work, they will start consuming
oxygen. Unless you turn or in some way aerate your compost
pile, they will run out of oxygen and become sluggish.
Do I Need a Recipe?
Microorganisms and other soil fauna work most efficiently when
the ratio of carbon-rich to nitrogen-rich materials in your compost
pile is approximately 25:1. In practical terms, if you want to have
an active compost pile, you should include lots of high-carbon
"brown" materials (such as straw, wood chips, or dry leaves) and
a lesser amount of high-nitrogen "green" materials (such as grass
clippings, freshly pulled weeds, or kitchen scraps).
If you have an excess of carbon-rich materials and not enough
nitrogen-rich materials, your pile may take years to decompose
(there is not enough protein for those microbes!). If your pile has
too much nitrogen and not enough carbon, your pile will also

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decompose very slowly (not enough for the microbes to eat!),

and it will probably be soggy and smelly along the way.
But don't worry about determining the exact carbon content of a
material or achieving a precise 25:1 ratio. Composting does not
need to be a competitive, goal-oriented task. All organic matter
breaks down eventually, no matter what you do. If you simply
use about 3 times as much "brown" materials as "green"
materials, you'll be off to a great start. Take a look at the sample
recipes and check the chart of common compost materials. With
experience, you'll get a sense for what works best.
Compost gets hot
Heat is a by-product of intense microbial activity. It indicates that
the microorganisms are munching on organic matter and
converting it into finished compost. The temperature of your
compost pile does not in itself affect the speed or efficiency of the
decomposition process. But temperature does determine what
types of microbes are active.
There are primarily three types of microbes that work to digest
the materials in a compost pile. They each work best in a
particular temperature range:
The Psychrophiles work in cool temperatures, even as low as 10
degrees C. As they begin to digest some of the carbon-rich
materials, they give off heat, which causes the temperature in the
pile to rise. When the pile warms to 30 to 40 degrees C,
Mesophilic bacteria take over. They are responsible for the
majority of the decomposition work. If the Mesophiles have
enough carbon, nitrogen, air, and water, they work so hard that
they raise the temperature in the pile to about 50 degrees C. At
this point, Thermophilic bacteria become active. It is these
bacteria that can raise the temperature high enough to sterilize
the compost and kill disease-causing organisms and weed seeds.
Three to five days of 75 degrees C. is enough for the
Thermophiles to do their best work.

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Getting your compost pile "hot" (70 to 80 degrees C.) is not

critical, but it does mean that your compost will be finished and
usable within a month or so. These high temperatures also kill
most weed seeds, as well as harmful pathogens that can cause
disease problems. Most people don't bother charting the
temperature curve in their compost pile. They just try to get a
good ratio of carbon to nitrogen, keep the pile moist and well
aerated, and wait until everything looks pretty well broken down.
If you want to get a little more scientific about it, buy a compost
thermometer.
To Turn or Not to Turn
Unless speed is a priority, frequent turning is not necessary.
Many people never turn their compost piles. The purpose of
turning is to increase oxygen flow for the microorganisms, and to
blend un-decomposed materials into the center of the pile. If you
are managing a hot pile, you'll probably want to turn your
compost every 3 to 5 days, or when the interior temperature dips
below about 50 degrees C.
After turning, the pile should heat up again, as long as there is
still un-decomposed material to be broken down. When the
temperature stays pretty constant no matter how much you turn
the pile, your compost is probably ready. Though turning can
speed the composting process, it also releases heat into the air,
so you should turn your pile less frequently in cold weather.
There are several ways to help keep your pile well aerated,
without the hassle of turning:
Build your pile on a raised wood platform or on a pile of branches.
Make sure there are air vents in the sides of your compost bin.
Put one or two perforated 4-inch plastic pipes in the center of
your pile.
Worm Composting
Employing worms to make compost is called vermiculture.
Manure worms, red worms, and branding worms (the small ones

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usually sold by commercial breeders) are dynamos when it comes

to decomposing organic matter, especially kitchen scraps. The
problem is that these worms cannot tolerate high temperatures.
Add a handful of them to an active compost pile and they will be
dead in an hour. Field worms and night crawlers (common garden
worms with one big band) are killed at even lower temperatures.
To maintain a separate worm bin for composting food scraps, you
need a watertight container that can be kept somewhere that the
temperature will remain between 50 and 80 degrees F. all yearround. Ready-made worm bins are available, but you can also
make your own. Red worms are available by mail.
Smelly compost. If your pile smells like ammonia, it may
contain too much nitrogen. Add carbon materials such as straw,
leaves, or hay to correct the balance.
Soggy compost. Dense or water-logged compost piles don't
contain enough oxygen for the microorganisms to survive. Often
these piles give off an unpleasant odor. The solution is to aerate
the pile and add more dry materials.
Finished product is too rough. Some materials like eggshells
and corncobs take a very long time to break down. If you want
more finely textured compost, shred or chop up the materials
before putting them into the bin. You can also sift out these
crumbs and throw them back into the next pile.
Make your own compost bin
To convert a plastic trash can into a composter, cut off the
bottom with a saw. Drill about 24 quarter-inch holes in the sides
of the can for good aeration. Bury the bottom of the can from
several inches to a foot or more below the soil surface and press
the loosened soil around the sides to secure it. Partially burying
the composter will make it easier for microorganisms to enter the
pile.

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CONVERSION CHART
1 foot = 0.3048 meter

1 meter = 3.28 feet

1 Mile = 1760 yards = 1.6093 kilometer

1 sq. foot = 0.0929 sq. meter
1 acre = 40 bigas

1 sq. meter = 10.76 sq. feet

1 hectare = 100 bigas

1 acre =43560 sq. feet =4840 sq. yards = 4404 sq. meters =
0.405 hectare
1 hectare = 107600 sq. feet = 11955 sq. yard = 10000 sq. meter
= 2.471 acre
1 cu. foot = 1728 cu. inch = 0.028137 cu. meter
1 cu. Yard = 27 cu. feet = 0.764553 cu. meter
1 cu. meter = 1.30795 cu. yards = 35.31475 cu. feet
1 brass = 100 cu. feet = 3.7037 cu. cu. yard = 2.835 cu. meter
1 cu. meter = 0.354 brass

1 litre water = 1 kilogram

1 litre = 1000 m.l. (c.c.)

1 pint = 0.568 litre

1 litre = 0.22 gallon = 1.76 pints

1 liquid ounce = 38 m.l.

1 gallon = 4.546 litre

1 pound = 0.454 kilogram

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1 kilogram = 1000 grams = 2.202 pounds

kilograms
1 gram = 1000 milligram

1 quintal = 100

1 metric ton = 1000 kilograms

1 ounce by weight = 28.35 grams

To make 1 p.p.m. solution add 1 milligram of chemical in 1 litre
of water
To make 1 persent solution add 10 grams
= percent x 10000

p.p.m.

(10000 milligrams) of chemical in 1 litre of water

percent = p.p.m. 1000
Formula to convert Fahrenheit to Centigrade :

Area

of a square or a rectangle = length x width

Area of a triangle = base x height

Area of a circle = 3.14 x square of radius
Volume of a square or rectangular pit = length x width x height
Volume of a round pit = Square of radius x 3.14 x depth
To estimate the number of trees which can be acommodated per
acre / hectare use the following formula

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Area of the plot [Distance between two trees x Distance

between two rows] = Number of trees
Example : In 1 acre plot how many trees can be planted if the
distance between 2 trees is 3 meters & the distance between 2
rows is 4 meters?
.:. 1 acre = 4404 sq. meters
.:. 4404 [3 x 4] = 367 trees

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NPK CONTENTS OF VARIOUS MANURES AND FERTLIZERS

ORGANIC MANURES
Type of manure / fertilizer
Nitrogen %
Farmyard manure
0.3 to 0.4
Sheep/goat droppings
0.5 to 0.7
Poultry litter
1.0 to 1.8
Cattle urine
0.9 to 1.2
Bone meal
3.5
Fish meal
4
Sesbania aculeata
0.62
Sunn hemp
0.75
Castor cake
4
Neem cake
5.2
SIMPLE CHEMICAL FERTLIZERS
Ammonium sulphate
20
Ammonium chloride
25
Ammonium nitrate
18
Potassium nitrate
15
Urea
46
Single super phosphate
--Triple super phosphate
--Muriate of potash
--Potassium sulphate
--COMPOUND CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS
Diammonium phosphate (DAP)
18
Ammonium phosphate
11
Potassium ammonium chloride
13
NPK 15:15:15 (Suphala)
15

Phosphorus %
0.1 to 0.2
0.4 to 0.6
1.4 to 1.8
--22
3.9
0.15
0.12
2
1
----------16
45
----46
48
--15

Method of finding the required quantity of NPK : If a tree needs 250 grams of
nitrogen, 100 grams of phosphorus and 100 grams of potassium, quantity of each chemical
can be worked out as follows :

543 grams of urea (46% nitrogen) will give 250 grams of nitrogen (250 x 100 46
= 543)
625 grams of single super phospahte (16% phosphorus) will give 100 grams of
phosphorus (100 x 100 16 = 625)
166 grams of muriate of potash (60% potassium) will give 100 grams of potash (100
x 100 60 = 166)

P a g e | 125

Know Your Soil - Jar Test for Telling Soil Type

Half fill a large jar with a sample of your soil.

Make up to almost full with clean water.
Put on a tight fitting lid and shake the jar until you have
broken up any soil clods and lumps into suspension.
Leave it undisturbed to settle for 24 hours or so then come
back and check it out.
The different soil particle types silt, sand and clay will
have settled out into distinct layers. You will gain an
excellent indication of your soil type and its properties
simply by noting the relative proportion of each type of
particle in your soil!
Properties of each soil type
SAND
Soils high in sand content are described as light soils.
Sand has:
Poor ability to store nutrients
Excellent water infiltration so is usually well drained,
unless it is water repellent or compacted
Poor water holding capacity so requires more frequent
watering

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Good aeration (lots of large air spaces around the sand

granules) unless compacted
LOAM
Good
Good
Good
Good

ability to store nutrients

water infiltration unless compacted
water holding capacity
aeration unless compacted

CLAY
Soils high in clay content are described as heavy or tight
soils. Clay soils have:
Excellent ability to store nutrients.
Poor water infiltration water will tend to pool and take a
long time to drain away. Poor drainage suffocates
susceptible plants because the water stops air from
penetrating the soil. Clay makes good dam building material
though!
Excellent water holding capacity, but water is so tightly
held it is not easily accessed by plants
Poor aeration
Soil Structure
It is due to the action of soil life that structure develops in a
soil. Soil structure is the clumping together of soil particles
into aggregates by humus. The clumps hold nutrients and
retain moisture, while the space around the clumps allow air
and water to percolate through the soil.
A well structured soil will be fertile with good drainage, and
will have a crumb-like texture.
Poor soil structure occurs commonly in low organic matter
sands - the soil pores around the sand particles are large so
lose water and do not hold nutrients.

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It also occurs in non-structure clays where the soil pores

around the tiny clay particles are so tight that it is hard for
water or air to penetrate them.
Both can be improved by the addition of organic matter (e.g.
compost or mulch) forked into the top 30 cm.
Living soil will convert this organic matter into humus which
will then allow aggregates to form, and good soil structure to
be developed.
Sustainable soil structure management similarly depends of
feeding and looking after soil life so that it can do its job of
building good soil structure and fertility.

Gardening Poem
By Aquila Tyndall

Your hands are in the earth,

Earth's strength is shared with you,
Your strength is shared with the earth.
Green plants are growing,
They are because of you,
You are becauses of them.
You and they are connected, interlinked.
It is a circle, a holy circle.
All elements,
Earth, Water, Sun, and Air,
Are working with you.
All work for one purpose:
Life.
You are partners in the dance of life.
Sacred life flows through you,
Through the earth,
Through everything.
Everything is dancing the dance of life.
Everything is dancing with you.

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Liquid Organic Fertiliser

Liquid organic manure is regarded as the best of all liquid
fertilizers.
Organic composts and other solid manures are great but they
have one drawback over conventional soluble fertilizers they
take a while to break down in the soil and become available to
plants.
So, for the successful growing of heavy feeding crops the
judicious use of compost tea and other liquid manures do have
has a role to play.
This is particularly so in soils that has only recently been brought
under cultivation, and where a preparatory green manure crop
has not been grown.
COMPOST TEA
Compost tea organic farming is a popular traditional way to boost
plant productivity. Compost tea is easy and simple to make, and
benefits your garden in as mentioned below:
As a liquid fertilizer, its high nutrient value and rapid availability
makes it a great tonic for plants.
Because it is rich in the microorganisms that recycle organic
matter, compost tea also boosts the plant and soil enhancing
activity of soil life. These work on soil material to make nutrients
more available to plants, resulting in a stronger, healthier garden.
How to Make Compost Tea
Compost tea is commonly made using well rotten compost.

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However, you could also use well decayed and pulverized cow
manure.
Method:
First almost fill a large bucket or tub with water (if using tap
water allows it to stand overnight to rid it of chlorine which will
otherwise kill the soil biota in the compost). It is best if the
container used has a close fitting lid to exclude mosquitoes and
limit odor. A plastic rubbish bin or 100/200 liter drum with lid is
good options.
Then make up a compost tea-bag using a Hessian sack, onion
bag or square of shade cloth. Inside the tea-bag place an amount
of compost or cow manure that is roughly one-tenth of the
volume of your water. So for a 25 liter bucket you should use
about 2.5 liters of compost. Tie the tea-bag securely closed and
immerse it in the water.
The mixture needs to steep for one to three weeks before its
ready to use. The tea will be greatly improved by giving the teabag a good daily dunking. Liquid fertilizer aeration by frequent

P a g e | 130

agitation of the mix as this speeds the process and produces a

better result.
To use Compost Tea:
Just dilute the Tea at the rate of about one part concentrate to 4
parts water. Strain it to remove any stray bits, and apply directly
to your plants with a watering can. It is best used frequently as a
dilute solution the color of weak conventional tea rather than as a
stronger solution less often.
Weed Broths compost tea organic
Many weeds and herbs have a superior ability to extract specific
minerals from the soil, being dynamic accumulators of such
mineral nutrients. These weed cuttings should be placed in a
20/40 liter drum and kept covered for 30 days. Weekly mixing is
a must. After 30 days the liquid fertilizers is ready for use. Take 1
liter of this and mix it with 4 liters of water and apply to the soil.
The table below gives an idea of what you get from some of the
weeds:
Dynamic accumulator
PLANT
Borage
Chamomile
Chickweed
Clover
Dandelion
Fennel
Kelp
Nettle Stinging
Parsley
Peppermint
Watercress
Yarrow

Fl

Si
X
X

Mg

Ca
X

K
X
X
X

X
X

X
X
X

X
X

X
X
X

X
X
X

X
X

X
X
X
X
X
X

Mn

X
X
X

Fe

Cu

X
X
X

X
X

I-Iodine Fi-Fluorine B-Boron Si-Silicone S-Sulphur N-Nitrogen Mg-Magnesium Ca-Calcium K-Potassium P-Phosphate
Mn-Manganese Fe-Iron Cu-Copper

P a g e | 131

The plant tissues of dynamic accumulator weeds and herbs

become a rich source of mineral elements whose potential can be
unlocked by making teas from them. Just follow the same method
used for making compost tea, as described above.
PROPER APPLICATION OF LIQUID FERTILIZER
Liquid fertilizer, diluted to the color of weak tea, can be applied
at the rate of 20 liters (5 gallons) a week to every 6 meters (6
yards) of row. It will be particularly valuable applied during the
peak leaf growth, flowering and fruiting stages of your plants.
Ensure the ground is damp before applying, and avoid spraying it
on your plants as a foliar fertilizer during hot periods as it could
burn the foliage.
Adequately filtered teas can also be pumped through irrigation
systems for broad scale application in organic farming and
gardening.

Springtime
Oh, spring came to my garden
And caught it unaware
Wearing just a few old leaves
And a dejected air.
But when spring left my garden,
Its work so deftly done,
Many, many Daffodils
Were dancing in the sun.
-Velma D. BATES.

P a g e | 132

DOON GARDENING SOCIETY

INTRODUCTION
The Doon Gardening Society was founded by the Late Mr.D.D.Suri in
1959.The aim was to give the amateur Gardener a chance to share with
others the love of the earth. To experience the satisfaction of planting,
caring for and harvesting flowers, fresh tasty fruits and vegetables. As well
as the beautiful Flowers that grows all around Dehra Dun.
In no time all Garden Lovers in and around Dehra Dun desired to become its
members. It was, however, decided to limit the membership to 20 members.
With these members the society grew and the members contributed ideas
and garden knowledge to each other.
The society has now completed 54 years of its existence.
Society bye laws:
Article I Name
Doon Gardening Society
Article II Objectives
The purpose of this club is to educate members in home gardening and to
encourage an interest in all its phases and to promote conservation,
preservation and civic beautification of our community. It shall be organized
on a not-for-profit basis.
Article III Society Board
The society executive will consist of:
Officers
The elected officers of this organization shall be Secretary, and Treasurer.
All elected officers shall serve a term of 2 years. An officer shall not succeed
himself/herself.
The election of all officers shall be held at the November meeting and the
new officers will be installed at that time and immediately assume their
duties.

P a g e | 133

1. Secretary Emeritus (Ex-Secretary to be made Secretary emeritus for

Life Time). This post is for life time. The Secretary Emeritus shall as far
as possible attend all meetings. He/She shall be a figurehead and will not
preside on the meeting. In the present case Mr.P.N.Suri.
2. Secretary To be elected every two years and will maintain notes of the
societys meetings and will be responsible for club general
correspondence send out all notices of societys activities. Shall keep the
membership list in order by consulting with the Treasurer.
3. Treasurer To be elected every year and will be responsible for
collecting membership dues and maintaining accounts.
4. A presiding officer i.e. a President will be nominated for each meeting and
will preside on that meeting only.
ARTICLE IV - DUTIES OF THE OFFICERS
Secretary
1.
2.
3.
4.

Direct all activities of the society

Be responsible for mailing notices to members regarding meeting
Preside at all meetings
Maintain the attendance record in a register and an accurate record of
society minutes of the meetings
5. Keep a record of all members and update the same
6. Prepare an agenda for each meeting
7. In the absence of the Secretary, appoint a temporary Secretary for the
meeting
Treasurer
1. Be responsible for the finances of the society
2. To collect membership dues
Article V Membership
The membership of this Club shall be limited to 20 members.
All members must pay annual dues by 30 th April.
Membership is open to both men and women. Either the Wife or the

husband can become a member. The spouse will

automatically become a member. In case where the
husband is the member, the Host shall invite the wife to
the meet. The spouse will automatically become a

P a g e | 134

member. Voting rights, however, will be only with the

member (who has paid the annual fee) and not the spouse.
Active Status
An active member shall be anyone who is interested in the purposes of the
society and be willing to participate in the various club activities.
An active member if required must serve on a committee. At present there
are no committees.
Guests are welcome to attend 2 meetings, after which they must submit an
application for membership.
Associate Status
An associate membership shall be open to one who has been an active
member for at least 5 years and is no longer in a position to fulfill the
requirements for active membership.
Associate membership must be requested in writing and approved by the
Executive Board.
On approval of the Executive of the society eminent Botanists and other
persons who are connected with floriculture may be nominated as an
Associate member.
Associate membership shall be limited to a total of 5 members.
Article VI Dues
The dues for active and associate members shall be recommended by the
Board and voted on by the full membership at the April meeting.
The amount of dues will be listed in the Standing Rules. At present it is
Rs.100.00 per annum.
Dues are to be paid by March 30th for the following year.
If a member has not paid their dues by April 15th, two notices will be sent
by post and thereafter it shall be considered a resignation from the society
membership.
Article VII Meetings
The meetings will be held at the residence of the members are per the
rooster to be made every year in the month of March. The rooster will be
made in the alphabetical order (First Name of the member). The society
shall meet on the 2nd Saturday evening (Time to be intimated) of the
month, unless otherwise designated. There shall be a total of 10 meetings a

P a g e | 135

year. Due to intense cold in Dehra Dun no meeting is proposed for the
month of December and January.
Since it is a busy world, members are required to be in attendance in time
for the meetings with a grace period of 10 minutes. Late comers will be fined
Rs.50.
In case the member is not in a position to hold a meeting as per his/her due
date, it becomes his/her duty to request the member next on the list to
arrange for the same. This change must be informed to the President and
the Secretary at least 15 days prior to the meeting date.
Article VIII Snacks to be served at the meeting
The host for the meet will arrange necessary items to be served at the
meeting. In no case these should be more than two salty and one
sweet dish.
Article IX New members guide lines:

1.
2.
3.

4.

5.
6.
7.

New members have to be introduced by an existing member and shall

fulfill the following conditions:
What will the prospective candidate contribute to the society?
Will they be willing to serve on the various committees of the society?
Do they have a garden suitable for hosting a visit and meeting? Both
the size of the garden and the location may be considered. While their
garden may not have sufficient interest at this time does it have the
potential to make a worthwhile visit?
Will they be able to attend a minimum of 75% of the meetings? As the
membership of the society is restricted, it is no good having a member
who is unable to attend meetings as they effectively prevent another
person from joining and benefiting from the society.
Do they bring some other attribute to the society which would be
welcomed by the executive and members?
Does the prospective member show a genuine interest and desire to
engage in gardening and to learn about plants and plant culture
generally?
The new member shall attend 2 meeting of the society as a guest.
Thereafter if approved by the Board he/she shall become the member.
As a general practice he/she shall arrange the next meeting at their
residence.

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MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION FORM

DOON GARDENING SOCIETY

Photograph
Name:
Date of Birth:
Name of the spouse:
Date of Birth:
Date of Wedding Anniversary:
Address:

Land Line/Mobile No:

Email:
Hobbies besides gardening:
I have read and understood the Doon Gardening Society Bye
Laws and agree to abide by them.

Date:

Signature

Recommended/Accepted:
Date:

Signature