EFFECT OF WORLD WAR IIThe American economy did not entirely recover until World War II escalated

production.
AMERICAS ISOLATION FROM PARIS FASHION
During World War II, the French couture banded together under the
leadership of Lucien Lelong, the president of Paris Couture Syndicale, drying
the German occupation. Under great restriction and privation practically no
fabric to work with, no trimming, no press coverage, no heat and no little food
most designer barely managed to stay in business. Some were forced to close
.Of course, under these circumstance little was achieved.
Isolated from Paris fashion leadership during the war, Americans had to
find their own style direction. The lack of imports from France was actually a
boon to the development American talent. In 1940 Vouge reported on the New
York collection openings. With Mainbocher as an example of success, other
American designers such as Claire McCardell, Hattie Carnegie, and Vera
Maxwell gained recognition.
Claire McCardell- consider the top American designer of the time, was
credited with originating the American Look in practical separates, inspired by
the work clothes of farmers, railroads engineers , soldier and sportsmen.
American designers became especially skilled at and known for their
sportswear, reflecting the more casual American lifestyle, which would
eventually influence the rest of the world. Sportswear with its simplest
construction also suited mass production.
Fashion remains relatively stable during the war years.
The US governments wartime regulations restricted the use of
fabric and hardware. Functional clothes became a necessity as
women doing war work uniforms and work clothes. Womens
suits were heavily influenced by military uniforms. The result
was a masculine silhouette for the women who now shouldered
the responsibilities at home.
Silhouettes

 According to original 1940s' images at the Victoria and Albert Museum,

the silhouettes of evening gowns tended to be draped widely over the
shoulders, cinched at the waist, with a free flowing full-length skirt.
Dresses were unstructured so women could dance and move freely in
them, and while shorter hemlines came into fashion in the mid '40s, the
essential style of a '40s silhouette remained throughout the decade.
Styles
Due to the rationing of materials, most dresses during the '40s were made
from plain, lightweight fabrics so as not to obstruct movement or dance.
Any detail or embellishments on dresses tended to be around the waist, as
this was a focal point due to cinching. Shoulder pads were also a
recurring detail in 1940s' evening gowns, as were pleats and draping.
Plunging necklines became a popular detail that was featured in many
evening styles.

Materials
As luxurious fabrics were scarce due to war-time rationing, dresses were
made from whatever materials could be accessed easily. Fabrics such as
rayon and viscose that were made from wood pulp were used instead of
wool and silk, and colors for evening-wear were a bright contrast to the
solemn colors used for day-wear. Materials were plain, block colors and
had little, if any, embellishment

REACTIONARY POSTWAR FASHION-In the post-war search for domestic

tranquillity, American families wanted to escape deteriorating cities and find a
healthy environment in which to raise their children. For many this meant a
move to the suburbs. The informal suburban lifestyle brought about the
popularity of casual sportswear by American designers, new wash and-wear
manufactured fabrics such as nylon, more convenient shopping centres.
FRENCH FASHION DIRECTION- Women were so happy that to have men
home after the war that most reverted completely stereotypical feminine roles,
leaving jobs open for the returning men. Fashion catered to their feminine ideal.
Paris recaptured fashion dominance almost to the point of dictatorship in
Diors case.

Christian Dior(Chris-tee-ahn Dee-or) shows his first collection in 1947 and

was an instant success. In a reaction against the wartime silhouette, women
adopted his New Look, with longer, fuller skirts, smooth rounded, sloping
shoulders; and tiny fitted waists. Within the few seasons, Diors name became
household word, and he was doing as much business as the rest of the couture
combined.
Christobal Balenciaga- a Spaniard, who worked in Paris, was regarded as the
master of tailors. When American store purchased rights to manufacturer linefor-line copies, Balenciagas designs were always the most popular.