Dublin in Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
DUBLIN
August - September 2012
Wonderful Wicklow
Mountains and fountains at Powerscourt Estate
Park Life
Exploring the citys finest outdoor spaces
N27 dublin.inyourpocket.com
Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY of Dublin In Your Pocket
Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving Getting Around & The Basics Culture & Events History Where to stay
Pillow plumping for weary heads 5 6 8 10 11
dublin.inyourpocket.com
Howth Harbour Filte Ireland.
Where to eat Nightlife

Theres whiskey at the bar
15 20 24 38 39 44
What to see
Drink it all in
Temple Bar Beyond Dublin

Coastal escape within city reach
Shopping
Vintage rules
Maps & Street Register

City map Ireland map Street Register
Jim Larkin outside the GPO
48-49 50 51
Foreword
We ve travelled beyond the city limts for this issue to visit two of Irelands finest Great Estates. And the great news is that both are within driving distance of Dublin. Co. Wicklow s Powerscourt Gardens and neighbouring Ritz-Carlton Hotel (p.42) offer scenic respite designed to whisk you away to panoramic pastures new. While Co. Monaghans Castle Leslie Estate (p.43) retains a bygone era of landed gentry, equine pursuits and forest walks. So hit the road and experience these two wonderful locations. Back in Dublin, and late summer promises finer weather and, heres hoping, the perfect conditions for some lazy lolling in the citys beautiful Parks. Find your picturepostcard picnic spot from p.32. And when its time to head indoors, Irish phenomenon Riverdance (p.8) continues at the iconic Gaiety Theatre, the Guinness Storehouse (p.36) and Old Jameson Distillery (p.34) serve visitors exemplary Irish sups and a tasty selection of Restaurants (p.15) and Nightlife (p.20) ensures everyone is kept well fed and watered. A superb selection of museums, galleries, shopping and tours reinforces this fair city as one of the worlds finest. Get your visit off to a memorable start by perusing What to see (from p.24).
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Cover story
I f a picture paints a th ousand words then this is one masterpiece wor th soliloquising about. One of Irelands most magnificent estates, Powerscourt House and Gardens is resplendent both inside and out. Go explore on p.42.
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Editorial
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Managing Editor Heidi McAlpin (048) 9047 1328 heidi.mcalpin@inyourpocket.com Dublin Editor Adam Hyland adam.hyland@inyourpocket.com Advertising Sales Director Alan Groves (+44) (0)7795 082505 alan.groves@inyourpocket.com History contributor Dr. Jonathan Bardon OBE Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite For more news events, comments and competitions find us on and
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For all enquiries and comments contact dublin@inyourpocket.com. Next issue October - November 2012
Editors note
The editorial content of Dublin In Your Pocket guides is independent from paidfor advertising. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
Dublin In Your Pocket
Arriving
Whether arriving on a low-budget plane, piloting your own Learjet or driving sedately off a ferry, heres some handy info to help smooth your journey. Doors to manual.
By plane
Dublin Airport Tel. (+353)(0)1 814 1111, www. dublin-airpor t.com. Th e coun tr ys main airpor t is situated approx. 10km north of Dublin city centre near the M50 and M1 motorways. A large number of buses, coach es and ta xis ser ve th e airpor t which has t wo terminals - including the gleaming new T2. Remember to pay for any car parking at the automatic pay stations in the arrivals hall - or at the entrance to the short term car park - before returning to your car, as there are no cashiers at the exit. A bank, Bureau de Change and 24hr ATMs dispensing Euros, US$ and GBP are on the arrivals level. The Airport Information Desk, Dublin Tourism Tourist Information Office and Bus and Rail info desk are beside the second entrance. Car hire desks (06:00 - 23:00) are in the arrivals hall. The Mezzanine Level has a variety of restaurants and cafs.
1 = 0.79, US$1.23,CAD$1.23, AUS$1.16 xe.com rates 03 Aug 2012
By train
Regional and national transport is getting there with a crosscountry rail network and super swift city services gliding you effortlessly from coast to coast. Jump aboard our listings and read up on Irelands InterCity railway system, Dublins two main stations and the capitals DART and Luas networks.
Iarnrd ireann Tel. (+353)(0)1 1890 77 88 99 - talk-
ing timetable, www.iarnrodeireann.ie. Irelands national train company covers 87 InterCity stations with services divided into Standard and Superstandard Classes. Smoking is prohibited on all services and in all stations. Dublins two main train stations - Heuston and Connolly - are connected by a 14min Luas trip.
By boat
Dublin Ferryport (Dublin Port Company) D-2, Alexandra Rd, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 887 6000, www. dublinport.ie. Irelands busiest port is the second largest industrial estate in the country and employs 4000 people. There are up to 18 daily sailings to the UK and the continent, and Dublin-bound cruise ships also use its terminal. Buses and taxis (difficult to find during busy sailing times) provide a regular service to and from the port which is just two miles from Dublin city centre. Keep walking on the north side of the River Liffey past the O2 and you are at the Port area. Dun Laoghaire Harbour The Ferry Terminal, Harbour
Rd, Dun Laoghaire, tel. (+353)(0)1 280 8074, www. dlharbour.ie. Seven miles south of Dublin city is the Victorian town of Dun Laoghaire whose man-made 19th century Harbour is the largest in Western Europe. Daily Stena HSS sailings connect the town with Holyhead in Wales, and buses, taxis and the DART (20mins to Dublin City) provide transport to and from the port. There is a Dublin Tourism Information Office in the ferry terminal which is located on the seafront between the east and west piers, the former of which has two Crimean War cannons. See p.39 for more info.
Connolly Station C-2, Amiens St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 703 2358. Dublins busiest train station is on the north side of the city beside Busras Central Bus Terminal and Dublins financial area, the International Financial Services Centre (IFSC). The station is 5mins walk from the city centre. InterCity trains go to Belfast, Sligo, Dundalk, Drogheda, Arklow, Maynooth, Longford and Rosslare Europort. The DART train runs to the affluent seaside villages of Malahide and Howth on the north side and the pretty Co. Wicklow beach towns of Bray and Greystones on the south side. The Luas Red Line terminates at Connolly Station. Heuston Station A-2, St. Johns Rd, D8, tel. (+353) (0)1 703 3299. InterCity trains run to Cork, Tralee, Limerick, Waterford, Ballina, Westport, Galway, Ennis, Kildare and Clonmel. The station is south of the River Liffey at the end of the Quays, 20mins walk from the city centre, 15mins walk from the Guinness Storehouse and 5mins walk from Phoenix Park. The Luas Red Line connects Connolly Station on the east side and Tallaght on the west side. DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) www.irishrail.ie/
home. The iconic green DART commuter trains carry around 80,000 passengers every day as they traverse the city and hug the coastline from Greystones in the South to Malahide or Howth in the north. Trains run from c.06:30 - 23:00 - check the on-line timetable to avoid disappointment/frustration. Trains operate every 5/10mins during peak times, and theres an average gap of 20mins during off-peak and 20-30mins on Sun and Bank Holidays. Make like a local and buy pre-paid tickets to bag yourself a canny discount.
Dublin and Dun Laoghaire ferries

Irish Ferries D -2, Terminal 1 , Dublin Ferryport, tel. (+35 3)(0)1 855 2222, w w w.irish ferries.com. Daily sailings to Holyhead, Wales (from 1hr 49mins). Isle of Man Steam Packet Company D-2, Terminal 1, Dublin Ferryport, tel. 1800 505 505, www. steam-packet.com. Easter - Sept. sailings to Douglas, Isle of Man (2hrs 50mins). P&O Irish Sea D-2, Terminal 3, Dublin Ferryport, tel. (+353)(0)1 876 2345, www.poirishsea.com. Daily sailings to Liverpool (7hrs 30mins). Stena D -2, Terminal 2, Dublin Ferryport, tel. (+353)(0)1 204 7777, www.stenaline.ie. Daily sailings to Holyhead, Wales from Dun Laoghaire Harbour (1hr 59mins) and Dublin Ferryport (3hrs 15mins).
The Weather
Temperature (C) Rainfall (mm)
25 80 70 20 60 Temper ratureC 15 50 40 10 30 20 5 10 0 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Rainfall(mm) MinTemp(C) MaxTemp(C) 0
Rainfall(mm)
GETTING AROUND & BASICS

Toll Roads & Dublin Port Tunnel
Major motorway construction over the last two decades has made road journeys between Dublin and major cities such as Cork (3hrs), Galway (2hrs 20mins) and Belfast (2hrs 15mins) quicker than ever. The small price to pay for this is a network of tolls. The starting point for most people leaving Dublin is the M50, which has an electronic barrier-free system that identifies and charges your car automatically as you drive through (payable at any petrol station within 24hrs), but other tolls can be paid in cash at manned booths. We recommend having the exact change ready for a speedy, no-fuss cash drop facility. Charges start from 1.80 per car. Check www.nra.ie for updates and toll locations. Dublin Port Tunnel, D-2, www.dublinporttunnel.ie. This feat of modern-day engineering burrows seven storeys beneath Dublin city, making your North/South journey a lot more swift. Opened in 2007, the 4.5km Tunnel has two one-way tubes connecting Dublin Port with the M1 and the National Roads network via the M50 at Coolock in around 10mins. Tolls (3-10 each way depending on day and time) can be paid to a cashier, at a coin machine or in advance at www.etrip.ie. Before entering remove sunglasses, turn on dipped headlights and check youve enough fuel for the full 5.6km journey.
Driving in Ireland
Drivers must carry their drivers licence at all times. Drive on the left. Traffic coming from the right-hand side has precedence on roundabouts (traffic rotaries). It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat belts. If renting a car with children you must also rent the appropriate seat or cushion for their age and weight. Children under 12 years are not permitted in front seats. Speed limits: Motorway 120km/h, national road 100km/h, towing trailers, caravans, etc 80km/h (or less where signposted).
Border
The islands only land border, between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland (NI), is 360kms (224m) long and stretches from Lough Foyle in the north-west to Carlingford Lough in the south-east. In common with many internal EU borders, it is very inconspicuous and open by world standards. Drive on the left hand side on both sides of the border but beware of the change in speed limits. In Ireland its kilometres per hour (kph) whilst in Northern Ireland it is in miles per hour (mph).
Parking
On-street parking meters operate a Pay and Display system. Buy your tickets in advanced and display on the windscreen to avoid clamping or a fine. Retain the ticket counterfoil as a reminder of its expiry time. The average cost in the city centre is 2.90/hr, with a max of 3hrs parking in most locations. Machines only accept cash. There are many multi-storey car parks in the city centre, and most offer a discount on overnight parking. Look for the digital signs - updated every minute - telling you how many spaces are free.
By bus
Dublin Bus B-2, Head Office, 59 Upper OConnell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 4222, www.dublinbus.ie. Dublin Bus serves Dublin city and county, and adjoining areas. Bus routes are known by the number on the front of the bus. Check the websites timetable for local bus routes and times. Buses dont stop automatically, so put your hand out when you see yours coming. And buy a prepaid ticket or have exact change ready. The on-board machine only accepts coins and no change is given. Prepaid tickets can be bought in advance, and in bulk, as singles, daily, weekly, monthly or annual tickets from Dublin Bus offices or ticket agents across the city. The Airlink shuttle bus runs between the Airport and the city centre, also stopping at Heuston, Connolly and Busras Stations.
Currency & Banks

Unlike their NI neighbours who still use Sterling, Ireland is in the Euro Zone. Bank opening hours are usually Mon, Tues and Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:30 - 16:00 and Thurs 10:00 17:00. Many shops and services now use CHIP & PIN cards. In addition to banks, money can be changed at most Post Offices, Tourist Offices and hotels.
By Luas
Tel. (+353)(0)1 461 4910, www.Luas.ie. Luas (Irish for speed) light rail transit system was introduced in 2004. These sleek, silver trams provide a frequent, fast and efficient passenger service across two lines and six zones. The Red Line runs from Saggart and Tallaght in the West to Connolly Station and The Point (location and original title for the O2 arena) in the East. Keep an eye on the destination at the front of the tram as some terminate at Heuston Station. The Green Line is entirely in the Southside and links St. Stephens Green with Brides Glen. Of the various fare options, visitors will most likely use Single (1.60-2.90), Return (3.10-5.20) or unlimited travel Flexi Tickets (1 day 6.30, 7 days 23). Tickets can be purchased at plat form machines or (slightly cheaper) a Luas Ticket Outlet. Childs prices are significantly cheaper. Theres on-board CCTV and a fine for fare evasion. As most trams have an inspector, its silly to try and get away with not paying. Trams run every 9/10mins and 3/6mins at peak times (07:45 - 09:15). Check www.Luas.ie for updates. QOpen 05:30 - 00:30, Sat 06:30 - 00:30, Sun 07:00 - 23:30.
Customs
A full list of regulations, licences and allowances are available from: Customs Information Office, New Custom House, Promenade Rd, D3, tel. (+353)( 0)1 877 6222, www. revenue.ie.
Emergency numbers
The main Emergency Services are Police (Garda), EMS (Emergency Medical Service) and Ambulance, Fire and Rescue, Marine and Coastal Emergencies and Mountain Rescue. Freephone 999 or 112 from a landline or mobile.
Post
(+353)(0)1 705 7000, www.anpost.ie. Dublins main post office is the stand-out architectural and historic landmark on bustling OConnell Street. As well as buying stamps and sending parcels you can also pay bills, top up your mobile phone credit and send or receive money, A small beautifully designed museum tells the story of the building, the postal service and the GPOs place in 1916. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun and Public Holidays. See Museum listing p.26.
GPO (General Post Office) B-2, OConnell St, D1, tel.
GETTING AROUND & BAsIcs

Irish Tourist Assistance Service
C-2/3, 6-7 Hanover St. East, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 6610562, fax (+353)(0)1 661 0452, info@itas. ie, www.itas.ie. If you are a tourist and have been a victim of crime, report the incident to the Garda (Police) and call ITAS who can assist with language difficulties, cancelling credit cards/organising money transfers, contacting travel companies in relation to re-issuing stolen travel tickets, liaising with embassies for passport/ ID replacement and arranging accommodation, meals and transport in emergencies Q Open Mon-Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun & Public Holidays 12:00 - 18:00.
Symbol key
H Conference facilities F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna L Parking W WiFi E Occasional live music J City centre location C Swimming pool M Luas
Finding Your Way Around

Unlike most European countries, Ireland has no postcodes as such. However, Dublin does have postal districts numbered D1 - D24. Keep your eyes on street signs and use our handy map and youll soon be navigating like a native. Dublin 1 and 7 are the North City Centre and Dublin 2 and 8 are the South City Centre. These are the four main districts youre likely to visit. As Dublin is quite a small city, you can still get to most places on foot so dont be deterred; although Dublin 6 and 3 look a long way out of the city centre, theyre really only about a 10min walk away. The only exception to this rule is Phoenix Park whose official address is Dublin 8, even though its on the Northside. Also, Dubliners rarely refer to places as Dublin 2 or Dublin 1, instead writing D2 or D1. Another way of traversing the city with ease is to use the River Liffey as your divide. Everywhere north of the Liffey is referred to as the Northside and all the postal numbers are uneven. Cross over the River Liffey and youve arrived in the Southside where all postal numbers are even. Hence, simply by where you live, you are either a Northsider or a Southsider.
Smoking & Alcohol

The legal age for smoking and drinking in the Republic of Ireland is 18. In March 2004, Ireland became the first country in Europe to introduce a complete ban on smoking in the workplace. Remember to specify your preference for a smoking or non-smoking room when booking accommodation. It is, unsurprisingly, illegal to sell or buy drugs anywhere in the Republic of Ireland.
Tourist Information
Discover Ireland Centre, B-2, Suffolk St, D2, www.
visitdublin.com. Located in a restored former church, take a moment to admire the mightily impressive stained glass windows and equally inspiring vaulted ceiling. Tourist info abounds, and you can also book tours, accommodation and lots of other visitor goodies at the various counters, including our friends at Visit Ireland Travel. A ground floor shop sells the usual horde of souvenirs, and an upstairs sandwich bar is a great spot to galvanise yourself before joining your fellow sightseers and shoppers. QOpen Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30 (19:00 July & Aug), Sun 10:30 - 15:00. Also at Dublin Airport and 14 Upper OConnell St.
Irelands 2012 Public Holidays

1 Jan: New Years Day 4 June: Public Holiday 2 Jan: Public Holiday 6 Aug: Public Holiday 17 March: St Patricks Day 29 Oct: Public Holiday 19 March: Public Holiday 25 Dec: Christmas Day 9 April: Easter Monday 26 Dec: St Stephens Day 7 May: Public Holiday
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Dublin-Belfast Enterprise Rail Service

Service: 5 Days of operation: Mon-Sat DUBLIN CONNOLLY - BELFAST CENTRAL Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 07:35 Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 09:45 BELFAST CENTRAL - DUBLIN CONNOLLY Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 06:50 Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 09:04 Days of operation: Sun DUBLIN CONNOLLY - BELFAST CENTRAL Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 10:00 Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 12:16 BELFAST CENTRAL - DUBLIN CONNOLLY Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 10:00 Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 12:13 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat 09:35 11:50 08:00 10:00 Sun 13:00 15:07 13:00 15:13 11:00 13:15 10:35 12:44 Sun 16:00 18:07 15:00 17:15 13:20 15:35 12:35 14:44 Sun 18:00 20:07 16:00 18:15 15:20 17:27 14:10 16:17 Sun 19:00 21:07 19:00 21:05 16:50 18:57 16:10 18:15 Sun 19:00 21:15 18:10 20:15 Sun 20:50 22:57 20:10 22:18 Sun
Book at www.irishrail.ie for discounted fares (subject to availability).
Culture & events

Theatres & Concert venues
(+353)(0)1 878 7222, w w w.abb ey theatr e.ie. Dating back to 1904, Irelands National Theatre was reopened by President Eamon De Valera at its current site over six decades later. Irish culture and plays and international works are its main staple; one of its founders was WB Yeats. Acclaimed Irish playwrights George Bernard Shaw, JM Syn ge, OCasey, Wilde, Friel and Heaney have all been performed here. It has two auditoriums and a studio space, The Peacock Theatre, which is dedicated to new plays and contemporar y classic drama.
Bord Gis Energy Theatre C-2, Grand Canal Square,

Docklands, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7999, www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie. Formely the Grand Canal Theatre, Irelands latest cultural epicentre stages musicals, dance, opera and family shows, including many West End and Broadway productions.
Abbey Theatre C-2, 26 Lower Abbey St, D1, tel.
Gaiety Theatre B-2, South King St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1
679 5622, www.gaietytheatre.ie. The Grand Old Lady opened in 1871 and is Dublins longest-established theatre in continuous production. An eclectic line-up, from Pavlova to Pavarotti and Julie Andrews to Jack Benny, has graced its eclectic stage. The 1971 Eurovision Song Contest transmitted live from its auditorium - and marked RTEs earliest colour transmission of an indoor event.
RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Ballsbridge, D4, tel. (+353)(0)1 668 0866, www.rds.ie. Over the years this colossus of a venue has staged many stellar performances with U2, Paul McCartney, Pavarotti, Michael Flatley and two Eurovision Song Contests wowing the crowds. The RDS is spread across four facilities: the Concert Hall (cap. 900), Main Hall (3000-5000), Simmonscourt Pavilion (up to 7000) and RDS Stadium (over 35,000). It also regularly hosts shows, conferences and sporting events. The O2 D-2, East Link Bridge, North Wall Quay, D1, tel.
(+353)(0)1 676 6170, www.theo2.ie. Taking up a corner in Dublins central docklands, the O2 is the long-overdue replacement to The Point Depot. Now with a capacity of 12,000 and what is described as world class acoustics, the Dublin O2 is already promising to be one of the best live music venues in Europe (as with its London equivalent).
Gate Theatre B-2, 1 Cavendish Row, D1, tel. (+353) (0)1 874 4085, www.gate-theatre.ie. Although the building is over 200 years old, the theatre was only founded here in 1928. In 1991 The Gate was the worlds first theatre to showcase all Becketts nineteen stage plays. It has also staged four Harold Pinter festivals and premiered many of Brian Friels plays over the past 40 years. As this was not a custom-built theatre, delivered sets have to be cut up and reassembled inside. To bring it into the next century, over 6m is being spent on a new wing.
Olympia Theatre B-2, 72 Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 3323, www.olympia.ie. Built in 1879, this famous venue was demolished and rebuilt several years later and is now one of the citys most atmospheric entertainment meccas. On Dame Street, opposite Dublin Castle, it is currently owned by promoters MCD and plays host to concerts, comedians and popular productions. Its red metal and glass faade is a well-known city landmark where variety is truly the spice of life.
Riverdance at the Gaiety

Of all the performances to emerge from Ireland - in rock, music, theatre and film - nothing has carried the energy, the sensuality and the spectacle of Riverdance. And this summer, visitors to Dublin can experience this legendary dance and music extravaganza at the Gaiety Theatre from 26 June - 2 September. With its fusion of Irish and International music and dance, the show broke all box office records during its world premire run in Dublin in 1995. It then transferred to London where the unprecedented reaction increased the original ten performances to 151. A hugely successful tour followed to New York, Belfast and Cork and, since those early days, it has packed theatres across North America, Oceania, Asia and Europe. Currently there is one Riverdance production each touring in North America (the Shannon) and through Australasia (the Moy). And every summer a third company (the Foyle) plays here in Dublin and in cities across Ireland. Riverdance was initially performed as a seven-minute interval act at Dublins 1994 Eurovision Song Contest. Its innovative and exciting blend of dance, music and song draws on Irish traditions and combines the talents of performers as they propel Irish dancing and music into the present day. Up to 65 cast and crew members, with the remarkable Riverdance Irish Dance Troupe, the cream of Irish musicians in the Riverdance Band and a spectacular array of international guest artists, perform to the magic of Bill Whelans music in this not-to-be-missed spectacular. To join the already more than 22 million people worldwide who have been thrilled by over 10,000 performances, contact the Gaiety Theatre Box Office by tel. (+353) (0)1 677 1717 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie.
EvEnts
Events & Festivals in August & September
August
Wed 15 - Sun 19: Discover Ireland Dublin Horse Show, RDS, Merrion Rd, Dublin 4. We love our horses in Ireland, and this long-standing Dublin tradition celebrates our affinity with our equine friends. The Horse Show welcomes the best national and international show jumpers to the country and theres a great festival atmosphere as thousands descend upon the venue for great summer entertainment. If horses arent your thing you can enjoy the shows live music or indulge in a little shopping at the arts and crafts exhibitions. Blossom Hill Ladies Day on Thur 16 sees Dublin women arrive in all of their finery. Hats at the ready. Runs 08:00 - 20:30 daily. Tickets: From 33.35. Visit www.dublinhorseshow.com or tel. (+353)(0)1 456 9569 (outside Ireland), 1800 719 300 (within Ireland). Sat 18 - Sun 26: National Heritage Week Various Locations. This years nationwide celebration of our heritage has a special focus on Built Heritage. Cultural, historical and artistic attractions nationwide, many of them not usually open to the public, will be home to a huge variety of creative and educational events - many of them free. As well as guided walking tours there will be lectures, seminars, exhibitions, workshops, open houses and a whole lot of fun. Places to head to in the city include the National Museums, Dublin Castle, Merrion Square Open Day (Sat), Kilmainham Gaol, Dublinia and both Cathedrals. For a full list of whats on where visit www.heritageweek.ie or tel. (+353)(0)56 777 0777 / 1850 200 878. Thur 23 - Sun 26: Dublin Tall Ships Races Festival, Georges Quay and Dublin Docks. We Dubliners dont need much of an excuse to have a party, but we think the fact that our fair city is the final host port for the Tall Ships Races is a pretty good one. Hardy seafarers will have made their way from St Malo in France across the Bay of Biscay to Lisbon, then Cadiz and Coruna, before hitting land here, and we will be out in force to greet them. As well as being able to visit the ships, there will be markets, nautical exhibitions and worshops, great water sport displays, literary trails, puppet shows, buskers and performances to enjoy, and to really put some wind in your sails, Bulmers will be hosting a series of free concerts featuring top national and international artists - make sure to check in with us for updates on the line-up. For full details go to www.dublintallships.ie or tel. (+353)(0)1 222 5243. Sat 8 - Sun 23: Dublin ABSOLUT Fringe Festival Various Locations and prices. Irelands largest multi-disciplinary arts festival is now in its18th year and has steadily become one of the highlights of the citys cultural calendar. With more than 500 events taking place across 40 locations, Dublin truly comes alive with dance, music, comedy, theatre, street performances and exhibitions renowned for both entertaining and pushing the boundaries. The audience will be placed centrestage for many interactive events such as a search for a time-travelling criminal using a specially designed app. Watch out too for the new show, Elevator, from theatre company thisispopbaby - sure to be a highlight. Keep posted on all the action at www.fringefest.com or tel (+353) (0)1 670 6106. Sun 9 & Sun 23: GAA All Ireland Finals, Croke Park Stadium, St Joseph Ave, Dublin 3. The nation will turn its attention to the home of our national games and whole counties will empty as supporters of the teams lucky, or good enough, to make the finals, will descend on the capital to see their heroes battle it out for the countrys highest sporting honours. This is the climax of Irelands national sport, and a glorious festival atmosphere will permeate each and every pub as fans who havent managed to nab a ticket congregate round the TV screens. The Hurling Final takes place on Sun 9 while the Gaelic Football Final will be hosted two weeks later on Sun 23. Dublin are reigning football champions and if they make it to the final again youll need to get your seat early. For full details, go to www.gaa.ie. Fri 21: Dublin Culture Night, Various Locations. Theres no escaping the fact - Dublin is a city of immense culture, and for one night only, the citys attractions open their doors for this fab free event. Join the fun, festive atmosphere as Dubliners and tourists make the most of the citys culture spots. Museums, galleries, churches, historic houses, studios and cultural centres will be open late into the evening and will feature hundreds of activities, including concerts, performances, tours and workshops to keep you entertained. For a list of venues and activities visit www.culturenight.ie. Thur 27: Arthurs Day, Various Locations. Starting out as an ingenious marketing ploy backed by an unforgettable ad toasting Arthur Guinness for his world-famous stout, Arthurs Day has quite rightly become an annual event. Join the crowds at their favourite pubs by raising a glass to the man himself, the founder of the Black Stuff, at precisely 17:59 (1759 being the year he founded the famous brewing company). Since its inception, the Day has grown in popularity and has become a major cultural event with gigs and performances all over the city for those lucky enough to get a ticket, but even if you dont get to see one of the many acts, you can still soak up a terrific atmosphere in pretty much any pub in the capital, many of which become surprisingly generous for the day thats in it. To Arthur! Events are over 18s and more details can be found on www.guinness.com. Thur 27 - Sun 14 Oct: Dublin Theatre Festival Various Locations and prices. Presenting the best in national and international theatre, this prestigious 18-day festival will this year celebrate Dublin life in all its forms with a special focus called Your City, Your Stories, highlighting the constantly changing city and its people, whether they live in, work in, or are simply visiting the capital. Some 29 shows will be staged in venues around the city by national and international theatre companies, with The Corn Exchanges adaptation of James Joyces Dubliners and The Abbeys version of Oscar Wildes The Picture Of Dorian Grey running alongside international classics like Hamlet, here reconstructed and reimagined by the acclaimed Wooster Group. An absolute treat for anybody who loves theatre, the extensive programme will have something for all tastes. For details visit www.dublintheatrefestival. com or tel (+353) (0)1 677 8439.
September
10
HISTORY
The name Dublin comes from the Gaelic dubh linn or black pool - where the Poddle stream met the River Liffey to form a deep pool at Dublin Castle. The citys modern name - Baile th Cliath means the town of the ford of the hurdles. Irelands four principal routeways converged at a crossing place made of hurdles of interwoven saplings straddling the low-tide Liffey. 837 AD 917 AD: In 837, sixty Viking longships attacked churches round the Poddle and Liffey estuary, and the invaders made a permanent settlement in 841. 917 1014: Dublin was the Viking worlds largest city and traded from Iceland to Constantinople. The first genuine ruler of all Ireland - High King, Brian Boru - was rebelled against by Dublin Vikings and the Leinster Irish. With the aid of Vikings, Brian crushed his foes, then was himself slain, in an epic battle at Clontarf in 1014. 1014 1170: The Vikings adopted Christianity and founded Christ Church Cathedral. In 1169, the deposed Irish King MacMurrough sought help from south-west Wales Normans who, under their leader Richard FitzGilbert de Clare (Strongbow), seized Dublin. 1171 1399: In 1171 Henry II landed with a great army, and made Dublin the capital of the Normans Irish territory and the heart of the Norman and English colony. Christ Church was rebuilt in the Gothic style and work began on St Patricks Cathedral. In 1317 Scottish King Robert the Bruce and brother Edward failed to take the city, but much destruction ensued. In 1348 the city was gripped by the Black Death. 1399 1603: English royal control of Ireland shrank during the 14th and 15th Centuries to coastal towns and an area round Dublin known as the Pale. From 1485-1603 the city played a crucial role when Tudor monarchs undertook a reconquest. In 1603 The Earl of Tyrone submitted and, for the first time, the Crown won control of the entire island. 1603 1660: English monarchs decided Ireland should become Protestant. Christ Church and St Patricks were taken over and restored. English Civil War broke out in 1642 and many citizens joined the Gaelic Irish rebellion which had begun the year before. Eventually the forces of Parliament prevailed, and defeated royalists and the Irish besieged Dublin at Rathmines in 1649. Oliver Cromwell landed thirteen days later to begin the relentless subjugation of the country 1660 1691: A remarkable period of recovery began and, between 1610-1683, the population rose from 26,000 to 58,000. Instability returned when James II, chased from England, arrived in Ireland via France in 1689. He was given an enthusiastic reception in Dublin but, after defeat by William of Orange at the Boyne in 1690, returned to France. 1691 1798: A long peace followed William IIIs victory, and Dublin became the British Empires second largest city. By the middle of the 18th Century, the population was close to 130,000. A magnificent new parliament house (now the Bank of Ireland) was built in 1728 and a splendid gateway and faade for Trinity College completed in 1759 making College Green the social hub of Dublin. 1798 1900: Rebellion by the United Irishmen in 1798. The authorities kept the insurrection out of Dublin but the revolt convinced Westminster to close the Dublin Parliament, and the 1801 Act of Union saw Ireland ruled from London. The aristocracy slowly deserted and, while it continued to grow, the city endured severe economic difficulties. Destitute victims of the Great Famine poured into Dublin from 1845-1850. 1900 1923: At the outbreak of WWI, the Irish Republican Brotherhood and the Irish Citizen Army prepared rebellion. The insurrection began on Easter Monday 1916 and was eventually put down, leaving much of the city centre around the General Post Office reduced to rubble. During the War of Independence, beginning in 1919, much guerrilla fighting took place in the streets, and in May 1921 the Irish Republican Army burned the Custom House. The 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty made Dublin the capital of the Irish Free State. Disagreement over the terms of the Treaty resulted in civil war which began when Free State troops bombarded the Four Courts and buildings in OConnell Street. The anti-Treaty IRA called a truce in the spring of 1923. 1923 1965: Dublin remained an elegant but somewhat impoverished city - the capital of a state which, in stages, severed its last links with the British Empire in the 1930s and 1940s and became a republic in 1949. Irelands first Taoiseach (or Prime Minister) Eamon de Valera kept the state - renamed ire in 1937 - out of WW2. 1965 1991: A long era of peace, with trade agreements with Britain in 1965 and the joining of the Common Market in 1973 heralding spectacular if uneven city growth. In 1963, four months before his assassination, President Kennedy visited Ireland. In 1979 Pope John Paul ll - the first reigning Pope to visit Ireland - celebrated mass in front of one million people at Phoenix Park. In 1985 the Irish and British governments signed the Anglo-Irish Agreement giving the Republic of Ireland a consultative role in the NI government. In 1988 Dublin celebrated its Millennium and became European Capital of Culture in 1991. 1990s-2000: From the 1990s, the Celtic Tiger economy boomed and many ex-pats or Irish Diaspora returned home. House prices vied with those in London, and international music success, from Eurovision to U2, further cemented Irelands new culture of cool. In 1990 Mary Robinson became the first female President of Ireland. The feel-good factor spread into sport; cyclist Stephen Roche won the 1987 Tour De France, Ireland beat Italy in the 1994 US World Cup Finals and runner Sonia OSullivan won World Championship gold in 1995 and Olympic silver in 2000. 2000s: In 2002 the Euro replaces the Punt as Irelands currency. In 2008 Ireland becomes the first EU state to enter recession. On 28 Nov 2010 Ireland is forced to accept an 85billion EU bailout to prop up its decimated banking system. On Fri 25 Feb 2011, the Fianna Fil party suffers the worst General Election defeat of a sitting government since the Irish states 1921 foundation. Fine Gael leader Enda Kenny becomes Taoiseach in a coalition with the Labour Party. In May 2011 The Queen is the first British monarch to visit Ireland since it became a Republic. US President Obama follows with a whirlwind visit to Dublin and his ancestral home of Moneygall, Co. Offaly. In Oct 2011 Michael D. Higgins is elected the 9th President of Ireland.

Jurys_Dublin_hotels_124x41_landscape_aw.pdf
Where to stay
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Hotels are experiencing a downturn in occupancy whic-h has resulted in big discounts available on-line and across a wide range of accommodation providers. Check out our website and iPhone App for lots more hotels and last minute savings via booking.com. Star ratings reflect those given by Filte Ireland - the Irish Tourist Board.
5 Star
Conrad Hilton C-3, Earlsfort Terrace, D2, tel. (+353)
(0)1 602 8900, info@conradhotels.com, www.conraddublin.com. Located opposite the National Concert Hall, this classic contemporary hotel is a stones throw from St. Stephens Green and many of Dublins main attractions. Calming muted tones dominate the bright rooms, and the Presidential Suite is pure indulgence. Large conferencing facilities and WiFi access throughout ensure all your needs are taken care of. Relax and unwind at the hotel cocktail bar - and Alex restaurant specialising in seafood - on the ground floor. During summer, the traditional Alfie Burns Irish bar lays on open-air BBQs that are very popular with locals and guests. Q192 rooms. (single/double 169-240, suite 219-319). JH6FLKW hhhhh (+353)(0)1 665 4000, reservations.Dublin@fourseasons. com, www.fourseasons.com/dublin. In the leafy Embassystrewn suburb of Ballsbridge, this six storey red-brick hotel sits majestically in the grounds of the Royal Dublin Society. The Four Seasons is a stalwart of Dublin society and, as befits its stature, plays host to numerous charity balls. The ICE bar is for sipping champagne and cocktails, while Seasons Restaurant is the stomping ground of Dublins power players. Indeed, you could say the salubrious nature of the neighbourhood is reflected in the clientele. Rooms and suites are equally elegant, and the Spa is a tranquil oasis in which to repose and reflect on your fabulous surroundings. Q197 rooms. (single 225-500, suite 400-2600). H6FKDCW hhhhh
Shelbourne Renaissance Hotel B-2, 27 St. Stephens Green, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 663 4500, reservations@ renaissanceshotels.com, www.marriott.com. Immerse yourself in what many people consider to be the Dublin hotel. Its certainly a city landmark of the finest order, with a tip-top location and history-laden ambience. Built in 1824, room 112 - The Constitution Room - is where the 1922 Irish Constitution was drafted. Many of the suites are named after previous guests - most notably Princess Grace, and a recent restoration has brought this grand old lady back to her original splendour. Real log fires burn contentedly in the grates as you enjoy a cocktail in No. 27 Bar and Lounge or pint of Guinness in the famous, traditional Horseshoe Bar. Afternoon tea in the Lord Mayors Lounge is a must if you want to emmerse yourself in a recaptured era of high society Georgian Dublin. For all its opulence, the Shelbourne is always welcoming and never aloof. Visit, stay, enjoy. Q265 rooms (single 189 - 269, double 189 - 279, suite 349 - 2500). JHLKW hhhhh
Upmarket
later Place, Off Upr OConnell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 0666, stay@academyplazahotel.ie, www.academyplazahotel.ie. This newly rebuilt hotel is smart, inviting and slap bang in the city centre. All rooms have distinctive red and black checked carpets, soft cream walls, and crisp linens on the super-comfort beds, ensuring a good nights sleep is on the cards. The modern bar and two restaurants - Oscars for trad and contemporary and Abacus for elegant oriental dining - give this three star a culinary edge. Complimentary WiFi, discount guest parking, a gym and games room keep budgets in tact and boredom at bay. Golfing services can be booked for business groups or individuals who fancy getting teed off. The staff are very helpful and the location top notch... definitely one to check out. Breakfast 12. Q285 rooms. (single 79-225, double 89-249, triple 109-279, quad 159-319, suite 299-349). JHFKW hhh
Best Western Premier Academy Plaza Hotel C-2, Find-
Four Seasons Hotel D-3, Simmonscourt Rd, D4, tel.
Merrion Hotel C-3, Upper Merrion St, D2, tel. (+353 )(0)1 603 0600, info@merrionhotel.com, www.merrionhotel. com. Created from four Grade A listed Georgian Houses, one being the Duke of Wellingtons birthplace, this beautifully restored building boasts bright, antique-filled rooms and a modern wing overlooking a private garden. If staying here, invest in the rooms facing onto the Dil (Irish Houses of Parliament). A two star Michelin restaurant, trompe loile swiming pool and two reception rooms with fantastic sofas in which to sit and enjoy a glass of wine, makes The Merrion a particularly romantic idyll. And connoisseurs will be pleased to learn that a French vineyard makes wine exclusively for the hotel, and the extensive art collection is privately owned by one of the three owners. Q142 rooms. (single 460, double 480, suite 960-3000). JHFLK DCW hhhhh dublin.inyourpocket.com
Croke Park Hotel C-1, Joness Rd, D3, tel. (+353)(0)1 871 4444, www.doylecollection.com. Facing onto Croke Park Stadium, this big, new pristine hotel is greared up for business execs, but is also the place to be on match day as you soak up the excitement and anticipation in the Sideline Bar and Bistro. And, as its just 10mins walk from OConnell St, all the major attractions are reassuringly convenient. Self-styled Rejuvenate beds and duck down duvets soothe you into a blissful slumber and - wait for it ladies - skirt hangers ensure your power suits stay crease-free. Bathrooms have separate baths and showers, and underfloor heating to keep toes toasty warm - nice touch. With WiFi in the public areas and executive rooms, and free car parking for all guests, this is one upmarket overnight option well worth a peep. Q232 rooms (single/double 85-309, triple 95-319, suite 299-650). HFKW hhhh August - September 2012
12
Where to stay
Gibson Hotel Dublin Docklands D-2, MLuas The Point, tel. (+353)(0)1 681 5000, info@thegibsonhotel.ie, www.thegibsonhotel.ie. Whether you are in Dublin on business or for pleasure, this chic hotel at the Point Village in the heart of the historic Docklands region is in a perfect location and offers stylish and comfortable accommodation. As its located right beside the 02 concert venue you can enjoy a great show before strolling the very short distance to the comfort of your room or relax in one of the many bars, while those heading for a business meeting or conference in the nearby Financial Services Centre wont have far to go to unwind. A range of eateries and bars as well as inner courtyards and balconies mean you can enjoy the feel of urban living with added comfort. Q252 rooms 99-250. JFKW hhhh Clarion Hotel Dublin IFSC C-2, International Financial Services Centre (IFSC), D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 433 8800, info@clarionhotelifsc.com, www.clarionhotelifsc.ie. MLuas Mayor Square. Light oak furnishings and neutral tones create a calming place to stay and sleep. Especially convenient for execs frequenting the Financial Services Centre... just stroll out the door and youre there. Seal that deal by booking the fabulously cool penthouse for that important face-to-face - it could be the best investment youll ever make. And the adjacent one and two bedroom Clarion Quay Apartments allow you to create a more homely city base. The rooms at the front have great views along the River Liffey while at the all new Sant Mdispa all your worries are massaged away. Q180 rooms (single 135-295, double 120-295, suite 195-210, apartment: 135-200). JHFKDCW hhhh Jurys Inn Christchurch B-2, Christchurch Place,
D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 0000, jurysinnchristchurch@ jurysinns.com, www.jurysinns.com. Nestled between two major historic tourist attractions - Christ Church and St. Patricks Cathedrals - this particular Jurys Inn is extremely well placed for all the major city sights, shops and nightlife. The hotel recently underwent a full refurbishment, and the budget-conscious among you will appreciate rooms that can accommodate up to three adults, or two adults and two children U10. The adjoining multi-storey car park is handy for drivers, though charges do apply. Q182 rooms (182 Total rooms ). Rooms from 80. JLKW hhh
Boutique
Fitzwilliam Hotel B-2, St. Stephens Green, D2, tel.
(+353)(0)1 478 7000, enq@fitzwilliamhotel.com, www.fitzwilliamhotel.com. Designed by Sir Terence Conran in his famous sleek style, this smart hotel is located at the top of Grafton Street, opposite St Stephens Green. Its two star Michelin restaurant Thorntons overlooks the Green, making for a luxurious dining experience. Downstairs the bar has relaxed chairs and some very comfy booths... great for those evenings when you feel like a bit of metime. The stylish bedrooms come with fresh fowers, fab views and subtle lighting. From its quiet library in the lobby to Irelands largest roof garden, this is one hotel where you can escape the city on your doorstep. Q139 rooms (double 180-380, suite 240-480). JHFLKW hhhhh
Generator Hostel
Generator Hostel B-2, Smithfield Square, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 901 0222, dublin@generatorhostels.com, http://generatorhostels.com/. MLuas Smithfield. This European hostelling giant has arrived in Dublin - and conveniently landed right beside the Old Jameson Distillery and the Smithfield Luas stop. Which means young budget travellers get fantastic and affordable accommodation in a great walk-to-the-city location. Exposed brick walls, city-inspired graffiti art, Jameson whiskey bottle chandeliers and even a pole dancing area feature in the stylishly spacious, industrial-chic foyer. Rooms range from 8-bed dorms to a large VIP suite with jacuzzi - hello! And nestling in between are en-suite twins and 4-8-bed private rooms, female only dorms and 4-6bed dorms. All have storage lockers and funky bespoke artwork, and en-suites get you top notch shower and bathroom facilities. A lively bar with nightly entertainment and events, chill-out area and restaurant re-enforce the hostels social mantra. And free WiFi in social areas and computers in the net lounge keep you connected with all those new-found friends. A laundry service, luggage room, 24hr access secure key card system and free walking tours make this low-cost overnight option pretty hard to beat. Individual and group travellers are all welcome. Q 500+ beds. Beds from 11. HEKW
(0)1 887 2400, info@morrisonhotel.ie, www.morrisonhotel.ie. MMetro Jervis. Originally designed by John Rocha, and opened in 1999 to great acclaim, the Irish style guru used Feng Shui to create the rooms. It was one of the first hotels in Dublin to epitomise modern sleek styling. And now, after a major extension adding 48 rooms ans a courtyard, the hotel is, more than ever, the epitome of urban chic. For pure bedroom indulgence, dock your iPod, slip into the fluffy bathrobe and drape yourself across the hand-painted Rocha throw. For dining and drinking, the Caf Bar is a great place to enjoy an afternoon coffee or evening cocktails. And the Halo restaurant - with its own entrance - is full of antiques and opens onto the Bohemian Courtyard. You feel cool just hanging out here. Q138 rooms (single 135-195, double 135-415, suite 195 -2000). JHKW hhhh
Morrison Hotel B-2, Ormond Quay, D1, tel. (+353)
Mid-Range
(+353)(0)1 475 9666, sales@camdencour thotel. com, www.camdencourthotel.com. MLuas Harcourt St. Rest your weary limbs at this well-known city centre hotel. Only 5mins from St. Stephens Green, and 30secs from the Luas, theres no doubting Camden Cour ts closeness to every city centre whim (but not too close to Temple Bar if you crave some quiet). The hotel has a full leisure centre which includes a 16m pool, gym, sauna and steamroom. Residents car parking is a definite bonus for such a great location. Feast at The Iveagh restaurant, then treat yourself to a cocktail or two at C Central bar before heading home to your refurbished contemporary bedroom. Jobs a good un. Q 246 rooms (singles from 75, doubles from 85). Breakfast incl. JHFKDCW hhh
Camden Court Hotel B-3, Lwr Camden St, D2, tel.
14
Where to stay
Jurys Inn Custom House C-2, Custom House Quay, D1, MLUAS Busras, tel. (+353)(0)1 854 1500, http://dublinhotels.jurysinns.com/jurysinn_customhouse. Whether youre arriving by car via the Dublin Port Tunnel, off the train from Connolly Station or by bus from Busras, this Docklands hotel is just about the handiest in town. Its walkable from the last two, and, if youre feeling lazy, close to a LUAS stop for seamless city centre jaunts. The sparkly new Dublin Convention Centre, O2 Arena and Grand Canal Theatre are also within very easy walking distance. Inside, many rooms overlook the River Liffey, Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship and harp-like Samuel Beckett Bridge. And their contemporary decor, with cosy chairs and bed throws exude a homely air. The foyer-level continues the contemporary theme with its bar, cafe and restaurant. Payable breakfasts, wifi and nearby parking keep you in control of the cost. Q 239 rooms (rooms from 80). JHKW
Airport
Premier Inn Airside Retail Park, Swords, Co. Dublin, tel.
(+353)(0)1 895 7777, www.premierinn.com. Clean lines set the tone for this great value hotel chain. Rooms have the expected array of extras including WiFi (chargeable), modem point, satellite TV and hairdryers. King size beds with topnotch pillows and duvets, coupled with the hotel chains Good Night Guarantee, mean you wont need to worry about nearby aircraft disturbing your slumber. Parking is free for guests, and a free airport shuttle bus will ensure you arrive on time for your flight. Q Rooms from 70. Breakfast: Full Irish 11.95. Continental 7.75. HLKW
Radisson BLU Hotel Dublin Airport Dublin Airport,
Budget
Castle Hotel B-1, 2-4 Great Denmark St, D1, tel. (+353)
(0)1 874 6949, info@castle-hotel.ie, www.castle-hotel. ie. This Georgian house hotel exudes all the elegance of its era yet is imminently affordable. Just 2mins from OConnell St and opposite the Garden of Remembrance, the location is top notch and history-steeped. Within walking distance youll also find Dublins main shopping district, Temple Bar, Croke Park, and cultural heavyweights the Abbey and Gate theatres, Municipal Art Gallery, Dublin Writers Museum and James Joyce Cultural Centre. All bedrooms are individually decorated and maintain those original Georgian features including crystal chandeliers, plasterwork, magnificent antique mirrors and beautiful marble fireplaces. Large family rooms can accommodate up to two adults and three children. And the hotels family-friendly facilities extend to special menus for children, while you can enjoy the local produce at the hotel bar and restaurant where theres traditional Irish music every weekend. Q130 rooms (single 59, double 84). Incl. breakfast. Free WiFi. Parking chargeable. JHLKW hhh
Co. Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 844 6000, info.airport. Dublin@radissonsas.com, www.radissonblu.ie/hoteldublinairport. Just at the Airport roundabout, you cant get any closer to the terminals without boarding a plane. Nearby complimentary spa facilities, on-site business center with 27 meeting rooms, trad Irish pub, gourmet restaurant and express check-out keep you refreshed, refuelled and ready for your Dublin adventure. And when its time to depart, the free 24hr shuttle bus will whisk you to your terminal of choice... keep an eye on lobby TV screens for latest flight schedules. Q229 rooms (standard from 89, business class from 129, jr suite from 149, executive suites 250). HFLKDCW hhhh
Irish Landmark Trust

Fancy overnighting in an Irish gate lodge, castle or lighthouse? These and many more unique and historysteeped properties are among the Irish Landmark Trusts distinct portfolio of sixteen holiday lets. Now in its 20th year, the Trust takes abandoned and crumbling buildings from across the island of Ireland many of national significance - and returns them to their former glory for everyone to enjoy. These meticulously renovated properties range from Drum Gatelodge on Northern Irelands stunning north Antrim Coast to Galley Head Lightkeepers House overlooking Co. Corks brooding coastline. Merrion Mews provides quirky city centre accommodation right at the heart of this gentrified Dublin green. And No. 25 Eustace Street (pic) in the citys vibrant Temple Bar offers a tranquil Georgian haven a world away from the melee. Authentically decorated in period detail, these retreats offer beautiful escape in enchanting settings. All properties sleep from two to ten people, so you can opt for a romantic weekend bolthole to a fun-filled get together with family and friends. And by staying at one of these properties, not only are you having a fantastic and memorable holiday in a magical setting, but youre also helping preserve more incredible buildings for future visitors to enjoy. Find out more about the work of the Irish Landmark Trust - including buildings currently under renovation - and book your dream property by visiting www.irishlandmark. com or tel. (+353)(0)1 670 4733.
Maldron Hotel Smithfield B-2, Smithfield Plaza, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 485 0900, info.smithfield@maldronhotels.com, www.maldronhotels.com. MLuas Smithfield. Clean lines and contemporary design define this bright and contemporary purpose-built hotel located behind The Old Jameson Distillery. Some rooms, including seven junior suites, have private balconies, offering panoramic views of the city and all rooms have power showers, coffee maker and free WiFi... perfect for the exec on the move. Its a 5min walk to major shopping areas and tourist attractions. With the Luas just moments away access to the O2, Grand Canal Theatre and IFSC. Q92 rooms (room only from 69). JHLKW hhh
Hostels
Dublin Hostelling International (An ige) C-1, 61 Mountjoy St, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 830 1766, mailbox@ anoige.ie, www.anoige.ie. Reminders of this buildings previous incarnation await at every turn. Once a convent and school, if you want to call home you do it - appropriately - from the confessional booth. And breakfast is served in the former chapel. An ige is Irish for youth, but all ages can avail of this centrally-located hostel which is the citys only member of Hostelling International. Facilities include en-suite private rooms, dorms, an outside garden with seating and a childrens play area. The games room and book exchange feed the grey matter, and dinner and lunch can be served on a request basis for group bookings. Complimentary breakfast available. Q297 rooms (private per room: single 28-36, twin/double 48-50.50, triple - 66-75, 4-bed 84-97.50, dorms per person: 6-bed 16.50-21.50, 8-bed 14-20, 10-bed 13-19. JLKW Dublin In Your Pocket
Turn to p.42 and p.43 for features on the Ritz Carlton Powerscourt and Castle Leslie
where to eat
Restaurant Price Key
A really nice sandwich and coffee should be no more than 7-10 A cheap but tasty main course should be around 11-17 Standard prices in most restaurants are mains 18-27 A pricey but good restaurant will have mains at 28-35 An expensive restaurant will be flying to the skies with 35 and over. fun clientele. Long benches and enormous picture windows open on a summers evening, lending an air of downtown NYC. Stand-out dishes for your humble editor include Black Pepper Squid and Yellow Butternut Squash Curry. So popular is Saba that they now have a take-away and food store in Rathmines (see www.sabatogo.com). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. . JS 677 3363, www.siamthai.ie. This contemporary Asian chain is so popular that theyve sprung up all over the city. The owners have aired away from the clichd Thai theme and opted for a stylish, streamlined and beautifully-lit interior. Subtle spotlit Asian artefacts provide the main clue to its cuisines origins. The staff are mostly Thai and very courteous, and the food is consistently top notch. No monosodium glutamate is used in any of their recipes, and starch and flour are kept to a minimum too, so you dont have to worry about an expanding waistline during dinner. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:30. . JK
15
Siam Thai B-2, South Andrew St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1
Asian
phens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 4899, www.cafemao. com. Bright and cheery, this is one of the most popular Asian Fusion venues in Dublin. The white walls - adorned with photos of Chairman Mao in an Andy Warhol vein - and primary coloured seats give it a real feel-good factor. As it is constantly busy, and you cant book a table in advance, try to get there before the crowds. And, with a new coeliac menu, Mao has yet again increased its popularity. For those of you on a diet, the menu kindly notes what dishes are low in fat so no need to fret while munching on a tasty morsel. The Five Spice Chicken is one of the favourites. Q Mon - Tue 12:00 21:30, Wed - Sat 12:00 - 21:30, Sun 13:30 - 21:00. . J
Caf Mao B-2, 2-3 Chatham Row, D2, MLuas St Ste-
Saba B-2, 26-28 Clarendon St, D2, MLuas St Stephens
Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 2000, www.sabadublin.com. Meaning Happy Meeting Place in Thai, Saba is an awardwinning restaurant (Best Service Award, Cocktail Bar of the Year, Most Stylish Restaurant) thats always packed with a
Wagamama B-2, South King St, D2, MLuas St Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 2152, www. wagamama.ie. Visitors from Britain will instantly recognise this renowned noodle franchise. Designed in the style of a Japanese ramen bar, the unintimidating menu is very easy to read, with detailed descriptions of each dish printed on placemats that are then marked with your order. Its long benches mean the atmosphere is lively and fun - great for groups, if not romantic dinners a deux - but be warned... they tend to bring each dish when its ready rather than in any particular order. A reasonably priced kids menu is also available. Q Mon - Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Thur - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . JKS
south king st | cork | blanchardstown | belfast | dundrum
delicious noodles rice dishes freshly squeezed juices wine sake japanese beers kids menu
12pm - 3pm | mon-fri

* includes complimentary drink
9.95
lunch deal
take-out menu available

south king st tel: 01 4782152 cork tel: 021 4278874 blanchardstown tel: 01 8219449 dundrum tel: 01 2157188
wagamama.ie
wagamama ireland
16
where to eat
Yamamori Noodles B-2, 71-72 South Great Georges St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 5001, www.yamamorinoodles.ie. This renowned restaurant with its bold back and red exterior features an extensive menu of fabulous, fresh Japanese food. Small and large groups gravitate to its long benches and tables while very efficient and beautifully dressed staff serve up those exotic eats. The vegetarian menu is just as fulfilling, with plenty of tofu alternatives. Extremely popular with locals we recommend booking in advance. A real gem... this is sushi and fun all rolled into one (I thank you). If you cant get a seat here, the (slightly) smaller Yamamori Caf is directly across the street, serving a shorter but no less delicious choice of bites - the sweet potato chips are outstanding. Q Sun - Thur 12:00 - 10:30, Fri - Sat 12;00 - 23;30. Sushi , Dinner . YJ
red-blooded Bear on South William Street. But for us, this one is right at the top of the pecking order (sorry again). Q 12:00 - 00:00. . K
The Farm C2, 3 Dawson Street, D2, MLuas St
Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8654, www. thefarmrestaurant.ie. This is just what the name suggests - good wholesome food. Products are locally sourced and the majority are organic or free-range. As a result, menus are subject to seasonal changes. This is homestyle cooking in a very funky location. Treat yourself to the Cottage Pie or the organic burgers, followed by some fantastic traditional apple tart. Most of the wines are also organic. This is guilt-free dining out. Q Sun - Thur 11:00 23:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 00:00. . J court St, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 9626, www.green19. ie. This very trendy little eaterie is like a little bit of New York in Dublin, but without the high prices. Its a little cool and a little funky, but dont worry about dressing up or dressing down as its also extremely laid-back and welcoming - dining out has never been such good value. The chefs aim to provide good, wholesome meals using seasonal produce, sourced in Ireland where possible. There is a mean cocktail list and the wine selection is pretty great, and affordable. Q Mon - Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. - . JK
Burgers & Pizzas

Elephant & Castle B-2, 18 Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)
(0)1 679 3121, www.elephantandcastle.ie. Ever since this informal restaurant opened its doors way back in 1989, queues of diners have descended every night. They come from miles around to savour the spicy chicken wings - a Dublin legend. The burger menu is as big as the Spire and the come hither desserts are just too tempting to refuse. Their brunch is great, too, so if youre in the area, call by and savour its scrummy delights. Q Mon - Fri 18:00 - 23:30, Sat - Sun 10:30 - 23:30. . J
Green 19 B-3, 19 Camden Street, D2, MLuas Har-
Hard Rock Caf B-2, 12 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, D2,
tel. (+353)(0)1 671 7777, www.hardrock.com. The Hard Rock phenomenon arrived in the city in 2004, and this spacious diner-style cafe - with room for 350 rock rubberneckers - pays homage to Irelands, and the worlds, rich musical heritage. Bonos shades and hand-written lyrics take centre stage in the U2 section, while a shirt worn by Elvis shares wall space with Maccas boots, Madonnas jacket and, of all things, a rug owned by Jimi Hendrix. In between ogling the rock and pop paraphernalia and watching music videos on the plasma screens, get stuck into the all-American menus smokehouse, burger, hot sandwich and salad selections. Then head to the souvenir shop and bag a ubiquitous HRC Dublin T-shirt to show the folks back home. Look for the big neon guitar shining down on Temple Bar. Q 12:00 - late . J Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 1233, www.fridays.ie. What began in New York in 1965 has now become a global brand - and its Dublin restaurant a landmark on the Green. The dazzling array of burgers, salads, fajitas, pasta, seafood - and over 100 cocktails - relentlessly satisfy new and returning fans. The Jack Daniels grill features a feast of fodder laced with the famous whiskey glaze. And little ones feeling a bit peckish can avail of the organic baby food which is free when you dine. Also at Blanchardstown Shopping Centre, tel: 822 5990; Blackrock, tel:288 5155; Dundrum Town Centre tel: 298 7299. Q 12:00 - 23:00 . J
Museum Stop, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 9889, www.lmulligangrocer.com. True to its claim, L Mulligan Grocer is indeed a real eating and drinking emporium. Situated just out of the city centre but easily accessible by Luas, this is a real gem of an eatery, a great place to enjoy fresh, locally-sourced produce from a seasonal menu that changes weekly. The food is great and the atmosphere homely. Its also an ideal spot for connoisseurs of beer and whiskey. Theres more than 100 imported beers and ales available, while the range of homegrown craft beers is not to be sneezed at either. Perhaps best of all is the range of whiskeys (and, as they point out, whiskies) from Ireland and around the world, a speciality of the establishment. Q Mon-Fri 16:00 - 23:30, Sat 12:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. . JK
L Mulligan Grocer A-2, 18 Stoneybatter, D7, MLuas
TGI Fridays B-2, St Stephens Green, D2, MLuas St
Contemporary
Crackbird B-2, 60 Dame Street, D2. One of the best pop-up-restaurants-turned-permanent fixtures, this place is the home of addictive chicken - hence the name. If you love fried chicken and all the sides that go with it, this is for you. Its so popular there is no phone number to book with, or a website, but appropriately enough you can tweet them, and it always seems to be bursting with atmosphere. If chicken doesnt get your wings flapping (sorry) try one of the sister restaurants - Skinflint on Crane Lane, JoBurger in Rathmines or the newly-opened one on Castle Market Street, or the very Dublin In Your Pocket
Odessa B-2, 14 Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 7634, www.odessa.ie. Since it opened in 1994, Odessa has managed to stay ahead in the happening stakes. Renowned for its brunch, this contemporary space is the spiritual home for trendy types listening to funky music and keeping a subtle eye on their cool contemporaries. For those of you feeling under the weather, a pitcher of Bloody Mary will soothe the soul, and their Smoked Chicken Quesadillas and Odessa Burger will always deliver. The upstairs seating is all restaurant, whereas downstairs has the air of a relaxed drinking club. Now with a members club above the restaurant, this is definitely one for the haves and wannahaves. Have we just invented a word? Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 00:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. . J Pearl Brasserie C-3, 20 Merrion St Upr, D2, tel.
(+353)(0)1 661 3572, w w w.pearl-brasserie.com. Beautifully presented seafood and the use of traditional meats such as rabbit, pigeon and vension set this inventive menu apart from the norm. The warm-hued interior has well-spaced tables and wonderfully romantic alcoves perfect for intimate occasions. The hidden table at the back also makes an ideal venue for private dinner parties. An oyster bar, peat burning fire, fish tanks and modern art add to the special ambience. And its always nice to know
where to eat
children are welcome in such a classy restaurant. Find it beside the Merrion Hotel. Q Lunch Mon - Fri 12:00 - 14:30, Dinner Mon - Sat 18:00 - 23:30. . J
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The Chefs Counter C-2, 3rd Floor, The Pigs Ear, 4 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 3865, www. thepigsear.ie. One of the citys most popular restaurants has extended their dining offer with this new intimate epicurean experience. Lovers of good food can indulge in a 12-course tasting menu prepared by the chef in this informal yet stylish upstairs space. As ever, its all about fresh, seasonal produce - this time inspired by modern world cuisine. Share a table of eight or take one of the six seats at the chefs counter itself. Booking is essential, so call at least 24hrs in advance. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 22:00. . J Winding Stair B-2, 40 Lower Ormond Quay, D1, MLuas Middle Abbey St, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 7320, www.winding-stair.com. This Dublin landmark became famous in the 70s when writers, musicians and artists would meet here for food and wine. It has since been renovated and is now a chic restaurant complete with the type of chairs you used to find in school. With a bookshop downstairs, and a restaurant upstairs with magnificent views over the Liffey, it really is in a world of its own. This is good food - with the emphasis on organic and locally sourced ingredients - in a great location, and you can even buy a book downstairs before 17:00 and bring it upstairs to peruse while enjoying your meal. Find it at one end of the Hapenny Bridge. Q Lunch Sun - Thur 12:00 - 17:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 15:30. Dinner 17:30 - 22:30. . J
European
MLuas St Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 534 3956, bagotshutton1829@gmail.com. Bagots Hutton was established in Dublin in 1829 and though it sadly closed in the 1980s, it has now reopened as a fine example of the fusion between classical and modern tastes. With 30 years of experience in the service industry, Giovanni Viscardi and Brian Deery have created a lovely restaurant and wine bar that focuses on good food and wines in an atmospheric setting. The food is very much dominated by European-influenced antipasti dishes - bruschetta, Parma ham, charcuterie, smoked salmon, salads and caprese - perfectly matching the wines on offer and creating that special social aura associated with sharing good food and good wine in good company. Q Mon-Thur 11:00 - 23:30, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 01:30, Sun 15:00 23:00. . JKW
Bagots Hutton B-2, 28 South William Street, D2,
it Best Casual Dining 2009. The chefs cook up a storm behind the bar while the staff try to keep up - and the crowd loves it. The food is top quality and very filling, which is as youd expect from hearty fare - such as venison casserole or Toulouse sausages - and a name that translates as blowout. You cant book, so get there early to secure a table. Q Mon-Sat 12:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00. . JB
Gallaghers Boxty House B-2, 20-21 Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 2762, www.boxtyhouse.ie. This traditional Irish restaurant in the heart of Temple Bar brims with antiques and curios and is a perfect place to sample Irish cuisine. As well as breakfast, stews, Dublins famous coddle and great winter feel good/comfort food, you can sample the eponymous Boxty - a traditional Irish potato pancake with different fillings. Ideally located, its a favourite with tourists who wish to try the local food and theres live trad music in the evenings. Q Mon - Thur, Sun 11:00 - 22:30, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 23:00. . JE LGueuleton B-2, 1 Fade St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 675 3708, www.lgueuleton.com. Serving provincial French food, this bistro-style restaurant with its leather drapes, large bar, big mirrors and picture windows feels very European. And its chilled-out atmosphere has won dublin.inyourpocket.com
Pigs Ear C-2, 4 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 3865, www.thepigsear.ie. Its rare that diners will catch a glimpse of their favourite celeb chef working up a sweat at the helm of a Dublin restaurant. So its reassuring to note that head chef Stephen McAlister, (RTs The Restaurant and The Afternoon Show) is a permanent fixture at this classy Nassau Street eaterie. McAlisters dishes are best described as a modern take on traditional Irish cuisine. And since its been awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand, all you hungry tourists will be guaranteed top notch Irish ingredients. For lunch-time munchers check out the cafe menu with light bite treats. Evening diners can enjoy a whole host of traditional platters such as bacon and cabbage, shepherds pie and (as the name suggests) deep fried crispy pigs ears - a delicacy were assured. Look for the bright pink door, then ascend the staircase to the two spacious and contemporary rooms overlooking the leafy grounds of Trinity College. Q Mon - Sat 12:00 15:00, 17:30 - 22:00. . J Unicorn C-3, 12b Merrion Court, Merrion Row, D2,
tel. (+353)(0)1 676 2182, www.unicornrestaurant. com. Famed for its piano bar, Unicorn is one of Dublins most popular eateries yet they can usually find a table for you even if you havent booked. The antipasto is delicious and the menu includes signature dishes using Italian and
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where to eat
Indian
Jaipur B-2, 41-46 South Great Georges St, D2, tel.
(+353)(0)1 677 0999, www.jaipur.ie. Hailed by critics and locals, this is a tantalisingly delicious and convenientlylocated modern Indian restaurant. Using local ingredients such as Wicklow lamb, chefs practice the philosophy of Ayurveda - good health - with their innovative and extensive dishes. As well as boasting a fresh take on spices, the menu has plenty of vegetarian options - as expected of the Indian subcontinent. Q Mon - Sun 17:00 - 23:00. . J
Jewel In The Crown B-2, 5 South Wlliam St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0681, www.jewelinthecrown.ie. From the outside it might be easy enough to pass this restaurant by, but once youve been youll be sure to return. Early bird menus are great value and youre only concern will be ensuring you dont eat too much before your mains arrive. Food is tasty and theres a great choice of hot and spicy fare. Q Mon - Sat Lunch: 12:00 - 14:30, Dinner 15:00 - 24:00 . J
Italian
D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 3815, www.dunneandcrescenzi.com. Established by an Italian husband and Irish wife team who moved here from Rome in 1995, this authentic Italian bistro is great for lunch or a low-key romantic evening. Its also ideal for those days and evenings when you want nice wholesome food thats not too heavy or rich. Several locations across the city all serve the same food and fantastic range of Italian wines, and the chain is part of the Slow Food Revolution. Fans can also take home some fantastico foodie eats and treats. Q N 16: Mon - Sat 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. N 14: Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Tue - Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . J
Dunne & Crescenzi C-2, 14 & 16 South Frederick St,
Irish ingredients. Whether youre looking for a fun night out, good quality food and a quiet chat, or a bite to eat in the piano bar, this place can accommodate you. Theres even a resident table magician on Wed and Thur evenings. The restaurants popularity extends to their food emporium, and caf (Mon-Sat 08:00 - 20:00). Q Mon-Sat 12:30-16:30, Mon-Thur 18:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-23:30. Closed Sun. . JES
Seafood
Les Frres Jacques B-2, 74 Dame St, D2, tel. (+353) (0)1 679 4555, www.lesfreresjacques.com. Escape the bustle of Dame Street at this charming - and awardwinning - restaurant Franais. French cuisine, wines and waiters combine to create a warm and intimate vibe thats perfect for a romantic meal or especially good value lunch. Seafood, steaks and delicious desserts are served in an unpretentious setting of muted tones, wooden tables and chairs and crisp white linens. Wine buffs will especially enjoy the 50% discount on full bottles every Monday and Tuesday. Early bird menus run 18:00 - 19:00, perfect timing if youre heading out or to a show later. And right next door to the Olympia Theatre you couldnt be more spoiled if you tried. Q Mon-Fri: 12:30 - 14:30, 18:30 - 22:30, Sat:18:00 -22:30. . J Lobster Pot D-3, 9 Ballsbridge Terrace, Ballsbridge,
D4, tel. (+353)(0)1 668 0025, www.thelobsterpot.ie. Warm and inviting with a romantic elegance and enduring passion for fresh, local produce - this Ballsbridge restaurant is a real city stand-out. Opened in 1980 - with the original key members of staff still here - The Lobster Pot offers a bountiful menu of classic meat and seafood dishes, among them Lobster Thermidor, Steak Tartar and Salmon Mornay. The fresh fish is exquisitely prepared, the game in season and the meat beautifully tender. And with a manager whos also the sommelier, wine buffs will be particularly enamoured of the selection. Just around the corner from many of leafy D4s hotels and embassies, this Dublin gem is well worth the trip. Q Mon - Sat 18:00 - 22:30. .
Fish & Chips

Beshoff Restaurant B-2, 6 OConnell St, D1, MLuas Jervis St, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 4400, www.beshoffrestaurant.com. Set in a wonderful old building with black and white tiled floors, this busy restaurant is full of charm and serves very tasty fish and chips. The original Mr Beshoff arrived from his native Russia in 1912 and established what has become a bit of a Dublin institution. Good quality fish and chips are served on a plate (no less) in the upmarket self-service restaurant that also stocks wine or beer. For hunger pangs on the go, take away is also available. But we suggest you stay and soak up the tradition. Q Sun - Weds: 09:00 - 21:00, Thurs - Sat: 09:00 - 22:00. . JS Leo Burdock B-2, 2 Werburgh St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 0306, www.leoburdock.com. This has been a local institution since 1913. Just opposite Christ Church Cathedral, this famous fish and chip shop is always busy. Fresh fish, tasty batter and good portions make this a classic so popular theyve opened sit-down restaurants in other locations. Many famous faces have popped by for a portion and become immortalised in Burdocks Hall of Fame. And if the grubs good enough for Tom Cruise, who are we to argue? Q 12:00 - 00:00. . JS Dublin In Your Pocket
where to eat
church Place, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 2420, www. lordedward.ie. Dublins oldest seafood restaurant dates back to 1890 and overlooks Christ Church Cathedral. Its a history-steeped, ye olde three-in-one pub, lounge and restaurant named after United Irishman Lord Edward Fitzerald. All manner of marine morsels are available in an equally replete selecion of cooking options - from scallops to sole, prawns to seafood platter. So extensive is the menu, in fact, that its positively oceanic. With Guinness on tap, your all-round eating indulgence is complete. Q Lunch: Mon - Fri 12:30 - 14:30, Diner: Mon - Sat 18:00 - 22:45. . J
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Lord Edward Restaurant & Tavern B-2, 23 Christ-
Spanish & Latin America

Acapulco B-2, 7 Sth Great Georges St, D2, tel. (+353) (0)1 677 1085, www.acapulco.ie. Sizzling with all the colour and exuberance of Latin America, this funky laid-back restaurant serves spicy fajitas, burritos, enchiladas and other authentic Mexican treats. Burgers, steaks and salads ensure all tastes are catered for... and the herbivores among you will love that practically every dish has a vegetarian option. For a finale youll find in few (if any) other places, check out the deep fried ice cream on the dessert menu. Margaritas and tequilas guarantee a lively night to remember - just keep an eye on those pitchers. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. . JS Port House B-2, 64a South William St, D2, tel. (+353)
(0)1 677 0298, www.porthouse.ie. Dungeon-like and lit only by candles, make sure you remove your shades (hello, Bono) before entering this underground fairytale setting. Wine and tapas are consumed against a backdrop of brick walls, dripping candles and wine bottles... setting the scene for a gloriously atmospheric night. Order a couple of tapas plates to start with, then decide on your favourites. No reservations are accepted, and it is always busy, so arrive just ahead of your preferred eating hour. Q Sun - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 00:30. . J
Epicurean Food Hall B-2, Junction Middle Abbey St and Lower Liffey St, D1, MLuas Jervis St. Established over nine years ago, this light and bright international Food Hall is the only one of its kind in Ireland. Fifteen dedicated outlets conjure up an unrivalled choice of scrumptuous cuisine from across the globe - and at very reasonable prices. Indulge in Chinese, Indian, Turkish, Italian and Mexican food, or go traditional with Fish & Chips and Homemade Irish Pies & Stews. Delicious coffees and teas complete the gourmet experience which can be enjoyed to go or at the communal seating for over 300 people. And, to complete your all-round experience, Irish dancers and musicians entertain the eaters every Tuesday and Thursday from 17:00 - 19:00. Ample on-street, Arnotts and Jervis Street parking - and on the Luas line - make this an easy to reach, affordable and delicious city centre dining experience. Find it just two minutes walk from OConnell Street and the Hapenny Bridge. The Middle Abbey Street entrance is directly opposite Arnotts, with the main shopping streets of Henry Street and Mary Street close by. Q Mon - Wed 09:45 - 19:00, Thur 09:45 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 19:00. . JS Queen of Tarts B-2, 4 Cork Hill, Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 7499, www.queenoftarts.ie. Let them eat cake! And who could resist in such a quaint setting? This tiny tea-room just opposite Dublin castle is jam-packed with wonderful home-made goodies. From the simplicity of the potato and onion pies to the scrumptuous decadence of the raspberry tarts, these savoury and sweet eats just couldnt be better. And if you just cant wait to sink your teeth into their Rustic Apple Crumble, try out the larger premises just around the corner on Cows Lane. Q Mon - Fri 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JUS
Vegetarian
Cornucopia Wholefood Restaurant B-2, 19 Wicklow
St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7583, www.cornucopia.ie. What was once a health food shop with a little caf at the back has expanded over the years to become a fully fledged restaurant. Its so popular, it has expanded into the Georgian house next door and doubled its capacity. All the delicious vegetarian and vegan soups, salads, desserts and globallyinspired mains are freshly prepared on the premises every day. And yeast, dairy, gluten and wheat free diets are also catered for, making this one Horn of Plenty worth getting your teeth around. Breakfasts are definitely worth the trip alone, and will keep you replete as you explore the city. Find it just off Grafton Street. Q Mon - Tue 08:30 - 21:00, Wed - Sat 08:30 - 22:15, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. . JS
Cafs & Brasseries

Avoca Caf B-2, 11-13 Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1
677 4215, www.avoca.ie. Walking into Avoca is like stepping into a glittering treasure trove, with to-die-for clothing, accessories and gifts tempting the eye at every turn. And the top floor caf continues the theme with its gloriously indulgent eats that are also available to take away from the basement. This renowned Irish brand has ten branches in Ireland, one in America... and three very popular cookbooks. Its city centre flagship location also has a rooftop garden - unusual in Dublin - and their broccoli and feta cheese salad and carrot salad are both so divine that you really will just want to keep on eating. Delicious. Q Mon - Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00 . JS
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Nightlife
Bars
St Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 470 5100, www. winefoodbeer.com. Against The Grain by name, against the grain by nature. This cosy gastro-pub is ideal if youre looking for a night out with a difference. With easy-listening tunes on the radio this is a great place to catch up with friends. Choose a pint from their selection of over 100 beers, but forget about asking for your usual. For the connoiseur theres the beer of the month to experiment with. Tasty bites are on offer with locally-sourced produce creating homely fare. When youre done with all of that step back to your youth and grab a board game to while away an hour or two. Q Mon - Tue 15:00 - 23:00, Wed - Fri 18:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. Food Served 12:00 - 21:00 Daily JKW 672 7696, www.dakotabar.ie. This place is classy tasteful leather furniture, very, very good-looking clientele, and cool music. Its a pity that some of the prices are needlessly steep, but its definitely a cool place. Only a few short years old at this stage, Dakota has promptly established itself as a reputable, fashionable bar. Even though it covers a lot of ground, it can get crowded on weekends, so its advisable to get there before 20:00 if you want a seat or, better yet, one of those nice booths. Q Mon - Wed 12:00 - 23:30, Thur - Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Food Served: Mon - Fri: 12:00 - 21:00, Sat - Sun: 12:00 - 20:00 JK
Against The Grain B-3, 11 Wexford St, D2, MLuas
International B/C-2, 23 Wicklow St, D2, tel. (+353) (0)1 677 9250, www.international-bar.com. This enduring venue is best known for its comedy nights, held upstairs and in The Comedy Cellar. Tickets are usually around the 10 mark which, for the show you get, is great value. Theres a great mix of established and rising comics, and well-known faces have taken to the stage as surprise guests. Comedy shows run seven-nights a week, but (depending on the night or day) theres also theatre and live music. Q Mon - Thur 10:00 23:30, Fr - Sat 10:00 0 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:30. JEKW
9094, www.marketbar.ie. This is a super trendy, but not super pretentious spot with a difference. The building was once a loading bay and its maintained a very minimalist approach to dcor. Theres no music, but you would hardly notice with the fantastic atmosphere. The bar was one of the first designed with the smoking ban in mind and theres a large heated smoking area at the impressive archway-entrance. Despite the vastness of the venue it fills up quickly, and its restaurant section is always buzzing with people stocking up on tasty tapas dishes, so for food we recommend booking in advance. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Food Served Mon - Thurs 12:00 - 21:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 15:00 - 21:00 JKW
Market Bar B-2, Fade St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 613
Dakota B-2, 9 South William St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1
Dawson Lounge C-2, 25 Dawson St, D2, MLuas St Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 0311. Dublins full of super-pubs, places so big you might get lost going to the loo. But if youre looking for something different this is the spot. Hailed as the smallest bar in the city (and perhaps country), the Dawson Lounge has a refreshingly compact capacity of roughly 24. Naturally, it fills up quickly, which means a virtual guarantee of a warm, convivial atmosphere. And if thats not enough to warm the cockles of your heart you can grab a warm bowl of soup or a quick sandwich. How quaint. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 01:00 - 00:30, Sun - 13:00 - 21:00 (or 23:00 depending on crowd) J
simple life it doesnt get better than this. Theres nothing fancy about this bar but thats the great thing about it. Its all about good beer, good tunes and good people to share it all with. Decorated with saw dust and the spools from electric cables; minimalist is one way to describe the dcor. An important note is that the toilets are uni-sex and so close to the bar that you can hear people ordering while you wash your hands. Expect rock tunes on the speakers, casually-dressed locals and a good time all round. Q Mon - Tue 17:00 - 00:00, Wed - Fri :17:00 - 02:30, Sat - Sun 17:00 - 02:30 J
Porterhouse Temple Bar B-2, 16-18 Parliament St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 8847, www.porterhousebrewco.com. This is the best of three branches of The Porterhouse in Dublin. Temple Bar can be a bit touristy and full-on for some tastes, but we like this microbrewery and restaurant. It serves a little taste of local cuisine (insofar as you can call Irish food cuisine) and a very impressive variety of beers - the Porterhouse Red is especially inviting. It towers over Parliament Street with its three floors and always has a crowd - a nice mix of locals, city workers and tourists. Sometimes they have decent live music, and its got its share of cosy little corners to combat the sprawling size. Q Mon Thur 11:30 - 00:30, Fri - Sat 11:30 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. Food Served: Mon - Sun: 12:00 - 21:30 JEK The Black Sheep B-2, 61 Capel Street, D1, MLuas Jervis Street, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 0013, www.winefoodbeer.com. The sister-pub of Against The Grain, this is one crafty place, with a range of specialist homegrown and international craft beers and ales on offer in a setting that looks like a cross between an old-fashioned alehouse and someones living room. Theres 23 craft beers on tap, plenty more in bottles, and if you feel overwhelmed by the choice, you can opt for a taster beer bat consisting of three different drinks of your choice, so you can try each before deciding on your favourite. The food is good and hearty, theres retro board games to play and the atmosphere is great, making this one of the coolest pubs in Dublin at the moment. Q Mon-Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri-Sat 12:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. J
Garage Bar B-2, Essex St, Temple Bar, D2. If you like the
Globe B-2, 11 South Georges St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1
671 1220, www.globe.ie. Housed in the same building as RiRa nightclub, the Globe just about straddles the line between cool and too cool. A big favourite in Dublin, especially among musicians and music fans, it boasts good tunes and a cosy atmosphere. Sitting at the bar is nice, but if youre really lucky, you might land one of the big tables beside its even bigger windows. Its really vibrant on weekends with funky clientele, but its also a good spot for a quiet drink earlier in the week. On weeknights entry to RiR is free, but weekend nights are run by independent promoters who apply a cover charge. Q Mon - Fri 17:00 02:30, Sat 16:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 01:00 JE
Clubs
Club Nassau C-2, 1-2 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4388, www.clubnassau.com. Dont even think of requesting the latest chart-music here. Club Nassau is Dublins only dedicated 80s club... so much so, it has even revived the classic slow-set. So get the shoulder pads out and prepare to step back in time at this disco wonderland. The club has been recently renovated and a second floor added for you to chill out and rest your weary feet. There is a mixed crowed, from those recapturing their early days to others just digging the retro vibe. Q Fri, Sat 23:00 - 02:30 Cover Charge 10, Fri night 2 for 1 concessions available online. J dublin.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
RR B-2, Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 1220,
www.rira.ie. One of the best clubs in Dublin, RR usually boasts a mix of hip hop, funk and whatever makes your hips move. Its name (pronounced ree-raw) is derived from the Irish expression rr agus ruaille buaile, which (very roughly) translates to messy fun. Anyway, its got some nice nooks and crannies, a smallish dancefloor, some cosy seats and even a foosball table in its basement. The ground floor is mellower and quieter, with laid-back tunes and a retro film on an overhead projector. Q Mon - Sat 23:00 - 02:30 Admission varies from free to 10.
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Sugar Club C-3, 8 Lower Leeson St, D2, MLuas St
Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 678 7188, www.thesugarclub.com. If clubs were animals The Sugar Club would be a chameleon. This very slick theatre-style venue hosts events from music to comedy to classic film-themed nights to cabaret and even the odd table quiz. From 23:00 the venue opens as a nightclub with the sounds of funk, soul, hip-hop, electro and more playing on different nights. With such variety we strongly recommended checking online in advance to see what will be the nights entertainment. Live events run 20:00 23:00. Ticket prices vary. Q Live events: 20:00 - 23:00. Club 23:00 - 03:00 Live shows and club entry vary. J
Indie music venues

Whelans B-3, 25 Wexford St, off Camden St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 0766, www.whelanslive.com. Recently refurbished, but still not too fancy, Whelans is an understated pub and fantastic music venue. Its wooden interiors and laidback vibe are appropriate given its strong reputation as a music venue. Its a good place for a quiet afternoon pint, or a night out as the gig section opens the doors to join the pub on weekends. This makes for a fun (if sometimes jam-packed) indie music club. Many local musicians played this venue on their way up and some still drink there. The punters vary in age and style, but the most common thread is a love for music and late drinks. One tip for newcomers - dont try to talk to that man with the hat at the bar who isnt moving (many have) - hes made of stone. Q Mon - Fri 14:20 - 02:30, Sat 17:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 01:30 Cover Charge 10 after 22.30 Fri & Sat. JE
Late bars
Bruxelles B/C-2, Harry St, D2, MLuas St Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 5362. Next to the statue of Phil Lynnot, this bar is unofficially split into three sections. Upstairs is a normal Dublin pub and downstairs is divided by music - rock to the left, indie-rock to the right. In a nice location just off Grafton Street, the pub inevitably attracts a varying clientelle from city workers to ageing bikers, regular dubs, indie kids and tourists. Its a busy place, but keep an eye out for the snug little corner upstairs in the right, secluded from the (occasionally) maddening crowd. On those rare occasions when the weathers nice, the outdoor seats are perfect for al fresco pints. A friendly, warm bar with great music too. JE Hogans B-2, 35 Georges St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 5904. Nestled on the corner of Fade Street (home of the Hills-style reality show of the same name), this is a fun, lively and loud spot to meet friends. With a mixed crowed its generally laid-back and cool, without being too trendy. At weekends its very popular and when the ground-floor bar fills, the crowd spills over into the basement for some funky tunes. This is a place for good fun and good pints, and, with a late licence at the weekend its definitely one of the better pubs in Dublin. Q Open 13:00 - 23:30, Thu, Sun 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 02:30. J dublin.inyourpocket.com
Messrs Maguire B-2, 1/2 Burgh Quay, D2, MLuas Middle Abbey St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 5777, www. messrsmaguire.ie. This late pub comprises roughly four floors (the jurys still out on whether part of the stairway, close to the entrance, counts as a floor). Its a nice placewith a lively atmosphere or, if youre there at off-peak times, a mellow vibe. The view from the upper floors is fantastic, especially if youre lucky enough to get a window seat on one of the higher storeys. They tend to have a big screen for major sporting occasions, so its not a bad place on match days. Theyve got great unique beers on tap too, as well as some basic pub food. Very mainstream, and maybe a little loud for some tastes, but it is popular. QOpen 10:30 - 00:30, Wed 10:30 - 01:30, Thu 10:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 02:30. Food Served: Mon - Sun: 10:30 - 21:30 JK Number 3 Fade Street B-2, Off Sth Great Georges St, D2. Tis a rare thing when a Dublin bar opens with no proper title: Other names being banded about include The Bar with No Name and Number 3. Even the entrance is low-key- a simple doorway with an occasional sign. The interior is like a classy speakeasy- domestic couches, tables and chairs, hardwood floors and lovely Georgian architecture create a fancy house party vibe. The music is a nice mix of soul and accessible alternative and the crowd are uber-cool 20 and 30-somethings. Be warned - it gets pretty packed on weekends. QOpen 13:00 - 23:30, Thu, Sun 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:30. Brunch served Sat & Sun. JK Twisted Pepper B-2, 54 Middle Abbey St, D1, MLuas Jervis St, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 4038, www.bodytonic. com/thetwistedpepper/. Neighbour to the intimate, yet super trendy Academy, Twisted Pepper is the perfect spot for people who like their music in a laid back venue. The bar often has emerging Irish acts lined up for your entertainment August - September 2012
22
Nightlife
Gay Bars
Dragon B-2, South Great Georges St, D2, tel.
(+353)(0)1 478 1590. This place has only become a gay bar in the last few years - becoming the sister bar to the nearby George - and is a big draw in the local scene. Loud, boisterous and fabulous fun, The Dragon is an unpretentious and lively place for singles, couples or groups. Its also probably the most drag queen-friendly bar in Central Dublin. Expect anything... except a quiet drink! Q Mon - Sat 17:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 23:00 J
Traditional Bars
Blarney Inn C-2, 1-2 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4388, www.blarneyinn.com. If Dublins nightlife hasnt been up to expectations - ie, not enough cils for your liking - this is the perfect spot. Set in one of the citys oldest buildings (dating back to 1837) the bars trad appeal flows seamlessly from its exposed brick walls, Irish street signs and local pics, drinks and ephemera to the traditional music and Irish dancers... you couldnt pack more Irishness into one spot. Shows are on Fri and Sat nights and a special pre-show dinner menu is also available (see Where to Eat). Book in advance to secure your spot and, even better, bag a bedroom in the adjoining Kildare Street budget hotel (see Where to Stay). Q Mon - Thur 10:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. Food Served: Weekdays 10:00 - 22:00, Weekends until 23:00. JEK
Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 5217, www. davybyrnes.com. Opened in 1889 and just off Grafton St, this pub has been going strong ever since. It has a strong association with James Joyce who used to be a regular here and mentioned it in his seminal tomes Dubliners and Ulysses. Every Bloomsday (16 June) tourists and locals flock here to sample the gorgonzola sandwich and glass of burgundy. Look up to catch a glimpse of the magnificent stained glass-domed ceiling. The fixtures are pre-WW1 and the food top notch. It gets particularly full on Fri, sunny evenings and rugby weekends. Arrive early and grab a seat outside to enjoy the sights of Dubliners passing by as you eat a tasty lunch or dinner and sink a cold drink. Q Mon - Thur 11:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 00:30, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Food Served: Mon - Thurs 12:00 - 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. JK
(+353)(0)1 478 2983, www.thegeorge.ie. As a gay bar its practically an institution, and indeed, a big draw in the local scene with a lot more niche than, say, The Front Lounge. As a place for young guys to meet, weve heard a lot of endorsements, and on a Friday or Saturday night you can hear the crowd and music from across the street. Its Sunday night bingo, hosted by TV personality Shirley Temple Bar, are almost legendary. If youre lucky, cross-dressing performance artist Veda will be performing that night too. But the must-see is Vedas drag show on Wednesday nights which comprise of funny, compelling and inventive lip-synching interpretations of all your favourite hits. You go girl. Q Mon - Tue 12:30 - 23:30, Wed - Sat 12:30 - 02:30, Sun 12:30 - 01:30 Free Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri, Wed 4 after 23:00 (2 for students or lgbt association cardholders, Sat 10 after 23:00, Sun 8 after 23:00. YE
George B-2, 89 South Great Georges St, D2, tel.
Dav y Byrnes C-2, 21 Duke St, D2, MLuas St
PantiBar B-2, 7-8 Capel St, D1, M Luas Four
Courts, tel. (+353)(0)1 874 0710, www.pantibar. com. Once upon a time this was Gubu, but that was before well-known Dublin drag queen Miss Panti took it over and renovated it. The makeover extended beyond a lick of paint, and a stage now takes pride of place at the end of the bar. PantiBar has firmly established itself in the local gay scene - competing strongly with The George, Dragon and The Front Lounge. Not surprisingly, it plays host to a number of special nights, including drag performances, karaoke, make and do and movie nights. The Panti show on Sat is a blast. A word of warning - though deservedly popular, PantiBar might be a bit full-on for certain tastes. Q Open from 17:00. J and is full of very cool people. And just when we thought the place couldnt get any cooler they opened a caf on Sat and Sun. The caf opens 12:00 - 17:00 and theres a small collection of books for your entertainment and cool jazz on the radio. Q Mon - Wed 16:00 - 00:00, Thur - Fri 16:00 - 02:30, Sat - Sun 12:00 02:30. JEW
Frank Ryans 5 Queen Street, Smithfield, D7, MLuas
Smithfield, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 5204, www.frankryans.com. Straddling the postcodes of D1 and D7, as well as Smithfield and the city centre, this great little bar also somehow manages to sit comfortably as a traditional pub that attracts a relatively young (think 30-ish upwards) and laid-back crowd. The great music that usually cranks up after 10pm helps, as does one of the best pints of Guinness in Dublin. The dark corners lend an air of the old-school tavern, as do the miscellaneous memorabilia hanging off the walls and ceiling, but the ambience remains bright and youthful. Friendly, atmospheric, cosy, welcoming, traditional and fun: Ryans is all of these things. But most of all it is a genuine, down to earth, real Irish pub in the best possible sense of the words. JEW
Workmans Club B-2, 10 Wellington Quay, D2, tel.
(+353)(0)1 670 6692, www.theworkmansclub.com. With its back turned nonchalantly to Temple Bar, the Workmans Club, situated on the quays beside the Clarence Hotel, is the thinking persons indie spot. It hosts live gigs from the loud and lively to the quietly acoustic, comedy shows, tastings and indie DJ sets, spread out over several floors. The ever-changing layout is a mystery, with new rooms appearing out of nowhere every few months, but the average age of the crowd seems to rise with every set of stairs you climb. It gets crowded on weekends and seats are at a premium, especially on the gloriously riotous first floor, but despite being one of the citys most alluring venues, its best feature is that you dont have to be too cool for school to feel at home. Q 17:00 - 02:30. J
Long Hall B-2, 51 Georges St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 1590. The red carpet is decidedly less opulent, we imagine, from when it first opened, but the Long Hall is a favourite for a diverse crowd. Students, ageing Dubliners and professionals all flock here for its traditional atmosphere and good pints of Guinness. Some customers think its a little too old school (we wouldnt mind if it was air-conditioned, for example), but others believe that its endearingly old-fashioned. It can be a little stuffy, but the atmosphere is undeniable when its busy: a very Irish pub. Q Mon - Wed 16:00 - 23:30, Thur 13:00 - 23:30, Fri - - Sat 13:00 - 00:30, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. J ODonoghues B-2, 15 Merrion Row, D2, MLuas St
Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 660 7194, www. odonoghues.ie. This pub is famous for its music tradition. It was here that the citys sweethearts - The Dubliners got their start, and since then it has played host to many more
Nightlife
Chips with everything
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Fitzwilliam Card Club C-3, Clifton Hall, Lower Fitzwilliam St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 611 4677, www.fitzwilliamcardclub.com. Its all gone Oceans Eleven at this large open-plan casino situated near salubrious Merrion Square. You may not bump into Pitt or Clooney, but you will find yourself in convivial and relaxed surroundings as you up the ante at one of several gaming tables. Novices and regulars can join in the nightly poker games. Check out their website to see what suits you best, and phone the poker desk in advance if youre looking for a particular game. Poker Festivals, Leagues and competitions are also held in this large Georgian room overlooked by a distinctive staircase and secluded Balcony Room - itself available for private parties. In Ireland, by law, you have to be a member to enter this casino which is designated a private members club. So dont forget to bring valid photo ID to register and receive your free 10 bet. Although a casino and card club, you can also sit and enjoy a coffee and lunch without playing any of the games. All poker tournaments are available for online booking via the Club website at www.fitzwilliamcardclub.com. Q 24hrs Free Membership.
famous Irish faces. It continues to host many spontaneous trad sessions and everyone is welcome to join in the singing. Its a low-key pub but the atmosphere is truly what makes it. On Thur and Fri mingle with the well-heeled as they unwind after their hectic weeks, but be warned, arrive early if you want to find a seat. Its also a hotspot for sports fans, particularly during the Six Nations rugby Tournament. ODonoghues has everything you would expect from a traditional Irish pub - the craic and the ceoil (the fun and music). Q Mon - Thur 10:30 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:30 - 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. JE (0)1 679 3687, www.louisfitzgerald.com/stagshead. Slightly hidden from its neighbouring Dame Street, The Stags Head, is a Dublin pub in the best sense. Attracting a varied clientele from the young to the old, the locals and the tourists, and the mainstream to the offbeat. Spanning a ground floor, first floor and basement, it is reassuringly unpretentious. One reason for the varied crowd is the fact that it sits only a few yards from mainstream pubs (like Madigans and 4 Dame Lane) and slightly offbeat ones (like the Globe), but most punters, we imagine, are attracted to its simplicity. Theres live Irish music Thurs, Fri and Sat nights. Q Mon - Thur 10:30 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:30 - 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. Barfood Served Mon - Sat 12:00 - 18:00. JEKW
Wine Bars
MLuas St Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 534 3956, bagotshutton1829@gmail.com. Dublin lost a very fine establishment in the 1980s when this, one of Irelands oldest wine bars which first opened in 1829, closed. So the city licked its lips and welcomed the news that duo Giovanni Viscardi and Brian Deery were to reopen the revered establishment, and their venture does not disappoint. With more than thirty Old World wines available by the glass or bottle they live up to the reputation of the 300-year-old wine cellar. And the restored original walls and archways introduce a tasteful new look successfully fusing classical and modern styles to create a lovely, authentic bar that is both intimate and atmospheric. The food is very good too, the European-influenced antipasti dishes - bruschetta, Parma ham, charcuterie, salads and caprese - perfectly complementing the wines and creating that special social aura associated with sharing good food and good wine in good company. Q Mon-Thur 11:00 - 23:30, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 01:30, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. . JKW
Bagots Hutton B-2, 28 South William Street, D2,
Stags Head B-2, 1 Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)
La Ruelle Joshua Lane, off Dawson Street, D2, MLuas
St Stephens Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 9544, www. laruelle.ie. Whisking a date or group of friends down an alleyway could be a risky business, but not at this modern yet cosy wine bar down Joshua Lane on Dawson Street. Its perfecly secluded away from the outside world - something reflected in the interior, where the table spacing puts you at ease before you dive into the superb wine list. With over 80 wines, ports, sherries and champagnes from around the world included, choosing may take some time, so its just as well the excellent range of cheeses and cured meats - not to mention the smoked Irish salmon - will keep the hungry gourmand inside you happy. Q Thur - Sat 12:00 - 00:00. JK
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What to see
From giant needles to ancient manuscripts, theres a landmark and cultural hub at every turn. Museums and tours bring the citys story to life, statues provide handy meeting points and parks create quiet escape from the throngs. With our comprehensive guide unfurled at the appropriate page, youll not set a foot wrong. And keep an eye on Finding Your Way Around (p.7) to help you navigate your passage. Messiah. This strong singing tradition continues today with two sung services daily (except Sat) during school term - the only Cathedral to do so in Britain and Ireland. Its a not-to-be missed experience in a truly inspirational setting. Saint Patricks, perhaps more than any other building in Ireland, embodies the history and heritage of Irish people of all backgrounds from the earliest times to the present day. Which is why each year over 300,000 visitors and pilgrims visit the cathedral and its Living Stones exhibition which celebrates its place in the life of the city, its history, and role in the future. Services: Mon-Fri: 09.00: Sung Matins (school term only), 11.05: Holy Eucharist (Wed and Thur), 17.30: Choral Evensong, Sat: 11.05: Holy Eucharist, Sun: 08.30: Holy Eucharist, 11.15: Sung Eucharist/Matins, 15.15: Choral Evensong. Q Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00 (until 17:00 Nov-Feb), Sun 09:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 14:30, also MarchOct 16:30 - 18:00. Adults 5.50, Students/Seniors 4.50, Family (2+2) 15. Group rates also available. J
Cathedrals
Christ Church Cathedral B-2, Christchurch Place, Lord Edward St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 8099, www. cccdub.ie. Of Dublins two city centre cathedrals - both Church of Ireland - Christ Church is the oldest, with an early manuscript dating it back to 1030. Founded on the former site of a Viking church, construction began under the orders of the wonderfully-named Viking King Sitric Silkenbeard. Along with St. Patricks Cathedral, Christ Church served as the seat for the citys five Bishops and subsequent Archbishops, the second of which - Laurence OToole - became Dublins patron saint. OToole and Norman conqueror Strongbow remodeled the cathedral in 1172. From the 12th Century Norman Conquest until Irish Independence in 1922, Christ Church reflected its English rulers fluctuation between the Catholic and Protestant faiths. In one pivotal period, King James restored Catholicism and attended Mass in 1689. A year later the protestant King William gave thanks for his Battle of the Boyne victory and presented Christ Church with a set of gold communion plates During the 16th and 17th Centuries, the cathedral was used as a market, meeting place and even a pub. Virtually rebuilt in the 1870s, today it stands as a monument to the history and heritage of Ireland, and continues as a working church with daily services, and renowned bell ringing during Sun service 10:00 & 14:30 and Fri practice 19:00 - 21:00. Its many treasures and curiosities include Strongbows tomb, the large medieval crypt with its mummified cat and rat, and Dublins own leaning wall. There is also a cafe in the 12th Century crypt. The cathedral is linked by a stone bridge to the former Synod House which now houses the Dublinia & The Viking World museum. Q Mon-Sat: April, May, Sept, Oct. 09:30 - 18:00, June-Aug 09:30 - 19:00, Nov - March 09:30 - 17:00 (last entry 45mins before closing). Sun: June-Aug 12:30 - 14.:30, 16:30 18:00, Sept-May 12:30 - 14:30. Adults 6, Conc. 4/3, U16 2. Family, Group and Dublinia discounts available. J Saint Patricks Cathedral B-2/3, Saint Patricks Close, off Patrick St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 4817, www.stpatrickscathedral.ie. Over 800 years old, Irelands largest church and the islands National Cathedral was founded beside a sacred well where Saint Patrick is said to have baptised pagans and converted them to Christianity around 450A.D. A small wooden church was built to commemorate this visit and a cathedral building erected between 1200 and 1270 - a feat begun by the first Anglo-Norman bishop, John Comyn. Through years of erosion and persecution, the Church of Ireland building fell into disrepair but was restored by the Guinness family between 1860 and 1900. Jonathan Swift, author of Gullivers T ravels, was Dean from 1713-1745 and is buried near the entrance. A selection of Swift artefacts can be found in the Cathedral including his epitaph, death mask, writings and a parchment awarding him the Freedom of the City of Dublin. One of the Cathedrals most significant events was in 1742 when a combined choir with neighbouring Christ Church Cathedral gave the first public performance of Handels Dublin In Your Pocket
Historic Buildings
Dublin Castle B-2, off Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 645 8813, www.dublincastle.ie. Wrapped up in this medieval stone fortification is the story of Dublin and its English colonial rule. As castles go, its not exactly an in-your-face affair, but step inside to see magnificent rooms, elegant courtyards and a stylishly landscaped garden. The castle was once the site of a 930s Danish Viking Fortress, then a 12th Century Norman Fort. The newer, stronger Dublin Castle was created by King John and completed in 1230 as a city defence, Royal Treasury and administration of justice. The courtyard featured defensive walls and four round towers, only one of which - the Record Tower - survives. The castle acted as the English, then British, seat of Government until 1922 when it was ceremonially handed over to the newlyformed Provisional Government and its leader Michael Collins. Coats of arms of royal chief representatives still adorn the Chapel Royals carved oak galleries and stained glass windows - harking back to a time when Anglo-Irish pomp and extravagance continued undiminished, even through the Great Famine. Much of the medieval castle burnt down in the Great Fire of 1684, and the rebuilt structure attained a Georgian style. Many rooms you see today, including the magnificent State Apartments, hark back to this period. Todays Castle hosts state visits, conferences and Presidential inaugurations. Complete your tour at the gift shop and Vaults Bistro. Q Mon - Sat: 10.00 - 16.45, Sun and Bank Holidays: 12.00 - 16.45. 4.50/3.50, U13 2, U7 free. JK
Dublin Castles tranquil garden
26
What to see
The History of the GPO

B-2, OConnell Street, D1 , M L U A S Middle Ab bey St., www. anpost.ie. Located halfway along OConnell Street, beside the Spire, this iconic Georgian building opened in Jan 1818 and is the HQ for Irelands postal service. Perched at the top are three statues: Mercury, Fidelity and Hibernia (Latin for the island of Ireland). Less than 100 years after its opening, the GPO was to play an important role during the Easter Rising of 1916 when it became the headquarters for the leaders of the uprising. The building was extensively damaged during the fighting but the facade was largely unscathed and the GPO was rebuilt and reopened as a post office in 1929. Inside, a bronze sculpture of the legendary Irish warrior Cuchulainn is dedicated to those who died in the Easter Rising (also see History p.10). The building continues to operate as a post office and also houses an interesting museum whose Letters, Lives & Liberty exhibition tells the fascinating and historic story of Irelands postal service. An original copy of the Proclamation of Independence is also on display. QMuseum: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Museum 2. J
Dublin City Hall B-2, Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 222
General Post Off ice
2204, www.dublincity.ie/dublincityhall. Perched at the top of Parliament St, this grand Georgian building, designed by renowned architect Thomas Cooley, was originally the Royal Exchange and became the centre of municipal government in 1852. City Hall has one of the best views in Dublin and its atmospheric vaults house multimedia self-guided exhibition The Story of the Capital. Study medieval manuscripts, archive newsreel footage and precious artefacts, then spend time in the small caf and shop to round off your visit. Free guided tours are by prior arrangement, and audio guides and leaflets are available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, English and Irish. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:15. Last admission 1hr before closing. Exhibition: Adult 4, conc. 2, child 1.50, 2+4 10. JK
Kilmainham Gaol Inchicore Rd, Kilmainham, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 453 5984, www.heritageireland.com. Irelands most famous prison was built in 1792 and is one of Europes largest unoccupied gaols. Now a museum, the jail - with its imposing Victorian wing and bleak, confined cells - is synonymous with the Irish fight for Independence. Its prison yard was where the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising were executed by a British Army firing squad, and its last prisoner was amon de Valera, first President of the Free State the Republic of Ireland. After De Valeras release in 1924 Kilmainham Gaol was shut down, then restored in the 60s. Commemorative plaques, original graffiti and prisoner art combine to create a unique and absorbing perspective on Irish social and political history. Several movies have been filmed here, including Michael Collins, In The Name of the Father and, perhaps less conspicuously, The Italian Job. One hour tours run every 30mins and include an audio visual presentation. QAprilSept. daily 09:30 - 18:00. Oct-March: Mon-Sat 09:30 - 17:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:00 (last admission 1hr before closing). Adult 6, Senior Citizen/Group 4, Child/Student 2, Family 14. Bus 79, 79A, 78A & 51B from Aston Quay, D2. dublin.inyourpocket.com
What to see
Leinster House C-2, 2 Kildare St, D2, MLuas St Stephens Green, tel. (+353) (0)1 618 3271, www.oireachtas.ie. The seat of Irish National Parliament, incorporating Dil ireann (The House of Representatives) and Seanad ireann (The Senate) was designed by German architect, Richard Cassell, and is believed to have inspired the design of the US White House. It was originally known as Kildare House after the Earl of Kildare, who commissioned it to be built from 1745 to 1747, and was claimed for parliamentary use in 1924 following the creation of the Irish Free State. It inspired surrounding streets of wonderful Georgian architecture that make up Georgian Dublin, and the first balloon ascent in Ireland took off from Leinster Lawn in 1783. Free tours are provided by the Oireachtas (Irish Parliament, pronounced Ear-Ock-Tiss) ushers. Irish citizens can be sponsored by a TD or Senator, and everyone can join a walkin tour. Special public events also take place across the year including Septs Culture Night and Octs Open House Dublin. For all tour days and times contact the Events Desk at event. desk@oireachtas.ie J James Joyce admires The Spire cast-iron bridges in the world, and its location at the gateway to Temple Bar virtually guarantees at least one traverse for any camera-happy traveller. J
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Landmarks & Monuments

Hapenny Bridge B-2, Bachelors Walk, Wellington Quay, MLuas Jervis. No trip to Dublin is complete without the obligatory photo opportunity against the backdrop of this famous walkway. Built as the Wellington Bridge in 1816 by William Walsh, it was the first between Capel Street and OConnell Bridges, and the Liffeys only pedestrian crossing until the Millennium Bridge opened in 2000. For 100 years, pedestrians were charged a halfpenny toll to cross its 43m, hence the enduring nickname. Its familiar arched silhouette also suggests the coin-related moniker. The bridge was closed in 2001 for major repair and reopened 2003 with its original paint colour restored. Today it is one of the oldest
Molly Malone statue C-2, Graf ton St, D2. The citys most famous lady is immortalised in the eponymous song telling the story of a humble fishmonger who wheeled her wheelbarrow through the streets broad and narrow (and so forth). Whether or not her trade directly involved the delivery of seafood is up for debate... but locals refer to her as the Tart with the Cart. You be the judge.J
28
What to see
Spire of Dublin B/C-2, OConnell St, D1, www.spireofdublin.com. MLuas Abbey St. Piercing Dublins skyline is this unmissable silver shard of stainless steel standing proudly on a bronze base symbolising Irelands past. Rising 120m, the hollow structure is almost twice as high as Liberty Hall, Dublins original seven storey skyscraper. Its 3m-wide base tapers to a 15cm point, the last 12m of which provide an illuminated beacon for the citys night sky. Completed on 21 Jan 2003, the construction is designed to safely sway up to 1.5m in high winds, and 12,000 tiny holes allow light to pass through, enhancing its daylight impact. Officially called the Monument of Light, early name suggestions included The Sword of Light, Dublin Gleams and Brian Boru. However, as befits an enduring trend to rechristen local landmarks, Dubliners have dubbed it the Stiletto in the Ghetto, the Nail in the Pale and several other names we darent print. Situated outside the GPO, the Spire replaces Nelsons Pillar which was destroyed by an IRA explosion in 1966.J
Trinity College Dublin

C-2, College Green, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 896 1000, www.tcd.ie. Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth, Trinity College is the oldest university in Ireland and undoubtedly its most renowned. Former alumni include writers Oliver Goldsmith, Bram Stoker, Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett, as well as past Presidents of Ireland Mary Robinson and Mary McAleese. Spreading across 47acres, its cobbled quads attract over 500,000 visitors a year. The Colleges main architectural features are the 19th Century Campanile leading into Parliament Square, the multi-denominational Chapel with its 19th Century painted window and the Old Librarys awe-inspiring Long Room and iconic Book of Kells. Tours available.
Book Of Kells Written around the year 800 AD by

Columban monks, this highly decorative vellum copy of the four gospels in a Latin text is regarded as the finest surviving example of Irish Celtic art. Richly illustrated with many-hued letters and pictorials incorporating animals, humans and Biblical scenes, this exquisite manuscript reveals a seemingly inexhaustible wealth of supremely detailed ornamentation upon each close inspection. The Books name comes from the Abbey of Kells in Kells, Co. Meath where it was reputed to have been (at least partly) written, though its exact origins remain unclear to this day. The Book remained there until the 1650s when it was moved to Dublin for safekeeping and presented to Trinitys Library in 1661. Over the centuries it has endured damage, part-theft and various attempts at rebinding - good and bad. Originally a single volume, for conservation reasons it has been rebound into four volumes, two of which are normally on display showing examples of script and illustration. Visits are self guided, with displays telling the history of the Book of Kells and other historic manuscripts, and reservations are not taken. Q Mon-Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Sun 09:30 16:30 (May-Sept), 12:00 - 16:30 (Oct-April). Adult 9, conc. 8, 2+4 18, U12 Free. Group and family rates available.
Museums & Galleries

St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 407 0750, www.cbl.ie. This award-winning library and art museum is housed in the 18th Century Clock Tower Building and adjoining modern purpose-built gallery. It contains the personal collection of Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, a wealthy American miner who, on his death in 1968, bequeathed his unique collection to the Irish public - on condition that it bear his name. Its rare treasures of ancient and religious manuscripts and art represent the worlds great cultures from Asia and the Middle East to North Africa and Europe. Beautifully illustrated Korans, rich Egyptian papyrus and colourful Chinese dragon robes are among the many fascinating items on display. The Silk Road Caf reflects the global theme with food from exotic destinations such as Afghanistan, Morocco and Palestine, and the gift shop sells Fair Trade products. Sir Alfred was made Irelands first honorary citizen in 1957 and would doubtless approve of his legacys final resting place. Tours are themed, so plan in advance. Q May-Sept: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Oct-April Tues-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Year-round: Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Free. JK
Chester Beatty Library B-2, Dublin Castle, off Dame
Dublinia B-2, St Michaels Hill, Christchurch, Lord Edward St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4611, www.dublinia.ie. Located at the historic crossroads of Dublin, this top visior attraction tells the story of the city with three exciting exhibitions. Viking Dublin and Medieval Dublin recreate the city through life-size reconstructions including a Viking house and a medieval fair, while Death and Disease of medieval times are also investigated. Finally unearth the citys past at the interactive History Hunters exhibition, visit an excavation site and see medieval bugs under the microscope in the Lab. See Dublin from a new perspective and come away knowing more about its citizens throughout the ages. QOpen daily 09:30 - 17:00. Adults 7.50, conc. 6.50, Children 5, 2+2 23. Combination tickets with Christ Church Cathedral available. JK Dublin Writers Museum D-4, 18 Parnell Square,
D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 2077, www.writersmuseum. com. This restored Georgian mansion provides a suitably salubrous setting in which to celebrate 300 years of Irelands outstanding literary legacy. As befits a nation synonymous with award-winning scribes, the museum provides an ornate backdrop for prose, poetry, plays and personal possessions from the likes of Wilde, Beckett, Joyce and Yeats. All genres are represented from the
Long Room Around 200,000 antiquarian tomes adorn the double-storey open shelves in this stunning 65m long space. Built between 1712-63, and featuring a stunning 12.6m high timber barrel vaulted ceiling, the room also contains rows of marble busts - including one of writer and Dean Jonathan Swift - and Irelands oldest harp, the c.15th Century Brian Boru. Named after the high king of Ireland who died in 1014, the harp is a symbol of Ireland. Also on display is one of only a few remaining copies of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic. Changing exhibitions add to the Long Rooms creative charm and visitor appeal. Q The Book of Kells admission also covers The Long Room. J
magnificent horror of Bram Stokers Dracula to the imaginative allegory that is Jonathan Swifts Gullivers Travels. A section is also devoted to childrens literature, and portraits and sculptures bring each writer into focus. It is the only city museum to offer a multi-lingual digital audio guide. A coffee shop, crafts and bookshop continue to capture the creative mood and keep your cultural juices flowing. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. (last admission 45mins before closing). Adults 7.50, conc. 6.30, Child 4.70, Family (2+3) 18. Combined tickets available with the James Joyce Museum and The Shaw Birthplace. JK
What to see
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What to see
National Museum of Ireland
Archaeology C-3, Kildare St, D2. This late 19th
Century building has an 18m high entrance with classical columns of Irish marble, and a hall that opens onto a great central court. Around this are exhibition rooms and a gallery where over 2million objects unearth Irish history from the prehistoric to late medieval periods. Highlights include Iron Age bog bodies, Ancient Egypt and Viking artefacts and one of Western Europes largest collections of prehistoric goldwork. Seek out the Tara Brooch (c.700AD) and Ardagh Chalice (c.800-900AD), two of Irelands most ornate and significant national treasures. J including species that are extinct, rare or endangered. The insect collection is the most extensive and accounts for approximately half of all specimens. It is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. J All Museums tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7444, www. museum.ie. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Free.
Benburb St, D7. MLuas Museum. Get a true feeling of history at this former barracks which housed troops for over three centuries. When handed over to the Free State Army in 1922, they were renamed Collins Barracks after Michael Collins, the Armys first commander-in-chief. The uniform he was wearing when shot is on display, alongside exhibitions on Irish military and civilians in wartime, and a major documentation of the Easter Rising and Irish Civil War. On the decorative arts side, the museum also showcases some of Irelands finest designs - including clothing, jewellery, furniture, glassware, ceramics, glassware and silver. Artefacts of international origin are also on display, most notably The Fonthill Vase, a Chinese porcelain vase presented in 1338 by the Chinese Emperor to Pope Benedict XII. Find the museum on the red Luas line or avail of the free car parking on site. JLK
Decorative Arts & History A-2, Collins Barracks,
Asgard at the National Museum, Collins Barracks
Natural History C-2/3, Merrion Square, D2. Opened in 1857, two years before Darwins The Origin of the Species was first published, this purpose-built museum is the oldest in Ireland. Famous for its Victorian cabinet style, the museum has over 2m specimens of which approximately 10,000 animals are on display. These not only cover animals native to Ireland but also the rest of the world Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum Off B-1, Finglas
As an island nation, s h i ps h ave al ways played an important part in our history, and now one of the most iconic items in recent Irish history, the Asgard, forms the central piece of a great new exhibition at the National Museum of Ireland at Collins Barracks. From the ships construction in 1905 by Norwegian naval architect Colin Archer, to its pivotal role in the infamous 1914 Howth gun running and her later use as Irelands first national sail-training vessel, the yacht has had a colourful history, and its story can now be enjoyed in a fitting setting. From 2007 to 2011 a major conservation programme was undertaken to conserve the ship and save as much original material as possible while also retaining the structural integrity of the vessel. Now, its ready to be seen in all its glory, its story intertwined with those from other exhibitions on show - The Easter Rising: Understanding 1916 and Soldiers and Chiefs: Irish Soldiers at Home and Abroad Since 1500. Open to the public from Aug 9, this permanent exhibition is free. For more info tel: (+353)(0)1 677 7444 or go to www.museum.ie/en/exhibition/ asgard.aspx
Rd, Glasnevin, D11, tel. (+353)(0)1 882 6550, www. glasnevintrust.ie. Irelands National Cemetery opened in 1832 and is the final resting place for many modern Irish heroes, including statesmen Michael Collins, Daniel OConnell and Eamon DeValera, and writers Jonathan Swift and Brendan Behan. At 124 acres, it is the largest cemetery in Ireland and also has the countrys tallest round tower which marks OConnells tomb. The high walls and watchtowers were built to keep out bodysnatchers operating in the 18th and early 19th century. Walking tours (90mins) are a great way to explore this fascinating space which is still in use today. The modern three-storey Glasnevin Museum was built as part of the preparations for the 100th anniversary of the 1916 Easter Rising and houses details of the famous people buried at Irelands necropolis. Follow the digital timeline that charts the history and draws connections between the cemeterys most interesting inhabitants. Then descend to the basements City of the Dead and discover how different religions commemorate and celebrate their deceased. The museum also has a Caf, shop and genealogical research facility. QMuseum: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Daily tours: March-Oct 11:30, 13:00 (July & Aug), 14:30, Oct-March 14:30. Museum or Tour 6/5. Combined ticket 10/9, 2+2 25. MP3 Self Guided Tour 10. General entry free. Bus Routes 40a and 40d from Parnell St and 140 from OConnell St. KL
Nth, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 222 5550, www.hughlane.ie. Founded in 1908, and regarded as the worlds first known public gallery of modern art, this important collection is housed in a striking 18th Century house and named after its art connoisseur founder. The collection encompasses over 2000 pieces from artists such as Manet, Monet, Degas and Renoir, and Irish artists including Jack B. Yeats and John Lavery. Uniquely, a reconstruction with original contents of Francis Bacons Reece Mews Studio is also on display. Visitors can lose themselves, figuratively speaking, in the Bookshop and Caf. QTue-Thur 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Free to the permanent collection. JK
Hugh Lane Gallery B-2, Charlemont House, Parnell Sq
James Joyce Centre B-1, 35 North Great Georges St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 8547, www.jamesjoyce.ie. Built in 1784 for the Earl of Kenmare, the original plasterwork of this fine Georgian townhouse was restored using photographs taken by Joyces friend, Constantine Curran. Prof. Denis J. Maginni ran a Dance Academy from the house and was immortalised by Joyce as a character in Ulysses. The Centre was founded by Senator David Norris and members of the Monaghan family, descendents of Joyces sister May. There is an exhibition and archive, and visitors are welcome to peruse the librarys reference material and translations of Joyces works. Themed Walking Tours (10/8) every Sat. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Last admission 16:30. Adults 5, Students/ Seniors 4. Tours and group rates available. J dublin.inyourpocket.com
What to see
Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship & Famine Museum C-2,
Custom House Quay, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 473 0111, www.jeaniejohnston.ie. See how Irish emigrants lived, and perished, aboard this replica 19th Century Famine Ship. The original sailed from Tralee, Co. Cork to North America from 1847-1855, taking locals on a perilous 3000 mile journey from the suffering of the Great Famine to the promise of the New World. Tours recall this pivotal chapter in Irelands history which saw millions leave these shores, most never to return. QTours daily. Adult 8.50, conc. 7.50, 2+2 20. J
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National Gallery of Ireland C-2, Merrion Square West & Clare St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 661 5133, www.nationalgallery.ie. Paintings, sculptures and objets dart are housed in this 19th Century building whose faade replicates that of the National History Museum and new Millennium Wing creates a striking contemporar y edge. The Galler y houses the national collection of Irish ar t and work by European Masters including Gainsborough, Goya and Picasso. At the benefactors stipulation to preser ve the masterpieces, the Turner collection goes on display every January. Jack B. Yeats, the great 20th Century Irish ar tist and brother of poet Wiliam B. Yeats, heads up the indigenous collection, and changing exhibitions keep culture lovers coming back for more. QMon-Sat 09:30 - 17:30, Thur 09:30 - 20:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:30. Free. Donations welcome. JK
The 1914 Howth gun-running vessel conserved
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What to see
Visit Ireland Travel
B/C-2, Discover Ireland Centre, Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 605 7702. These much-lauded, awardwinning tours allow you to explore every picturesque corner of Ireland in an extremely enjoyable, informative and stress-free way. All tours depart from central Dublin each morning, leaving you back in time for dinner, relaxation and maybe a Guinness or two. Choose from one to 10 day tours covering everywhere from the world-famous Giants Causeway and Belfast city in the north, the Cliffs of Moher and Aran Islands in the west and the Ring of Kerry in the south. Many other options are available, so call in and chat to Paddy and the team at their Dublin Tourist Office desk, or give them a call to book your next magnificent journey. Q Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 10:30 - 15:00.
National Botanic Gardens College Green, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353) (0)1 671 8373, www.waxmuseumplus.ie. Housed in the historic landmark Armoury Building, your visit begins with a trip through Irish history with figures from Irelands literary world, Irish legends and political figures. Sports and showbiz fans can have their photos taken with local heroes U2, Phil Lynott and George Best, among many other VIPs. The atmospheric vaults are the ideal location for The Chamber of Horrors not for the fainthearted. Kids can experience the mystery of Gullivers Travels, The Magical Tunnel of four worlds and puppet shows. Get interactive in the Science and Discovery Zone that celebrates Irish inventions and inventors. And, if you dream of having your own waxwork one day, make a start in the Wax Factor video studio where you can make videos to upload on-line. Q 10:00 - 19:00. Adults 12, Over 3yrs 8, Students 10, Seniors 9, Family (2+2) 35. JK
National Wax Museum - PLUS B-2, Foster Place, off
Parks & Gardens

Dublin Zoo A-1, Phoenix Park, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 474
8900, www.dublinzoo.ie. Only 3km from the City Centre in the vast Phoenix Park, the zoos 30 acres take you on a voyage of discovery from the fringes of the Arctic to the Plains of Africa via Indian Rainforest. Todays zoo has transformed from a menagerie that mirrored its Victorian heritage of animals displayed as curiosities, to a place where the joy of learning about wildlife and conservation is at the heart of everything. It is recognised as one of the most modern in Europe - and is increasingly an integral part of European Zoo breeding programmes. Crucially, though, its a great day out for all the family. Lions and tigers, gorillas, chimpanzees and orangutans, rare monkeys, rhinos, hippos, giraffes and
What to see
for upcoming talent, you could well come away with your very own treasure. All artists are listed alphabetically on www. merrionsquareart.com.
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National Botanic Gardens off B-1, Botanic Rd,
Glasnevin, D9, tel. (+353)(0)1 804 0300, www.botanicgardens.ie. Almost 20 hectares of beautifuly landscaped gardens create a colourful kaleidoscope of indigenous and international plants at this, Irelands horticultural hub. Founded in 1795, the Gardens are 3.5km north-west of Dublin and make a great daytrip, particularly if teamed with a trip to neighbouring Glasnevin Cemetery. Whether a floral aficionado or not, just walking around the grounds brings tranquillity to the soul. Glasshouses, statues and garden features, along with thousands of beautiful plants, reveal a different vista at every turn. Tours are available - with times posted in the Visitors Centre which also has a display, restaurant and head of a Giant Irish Deer. QMon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Group tours 2, free Sun 12:00 and 14:30. Car Park 2. LK
many more exotic and endangered species can all be seen. And theres also beautiful baby Asian elephant, Asha - the first of her species born on Irish soil. As well as the multitude of animals, children will love the pets corner, city farm and the safari train ride around the African Plains. Gift shops, a Caf and several picnic areas ensure sustenance, souvenirs and snack stops are available at every turn. QOpen daily 09:30 - 18:00. Last admittance strictly 1hr before closing. Adult 15.50, conc. 12.50, U16 11, U3 Free. Family rates available.
677 0095, www.phoenixpark.ie. Just north of the River Liffey from Heuston Station is Europes largest enclosed urban park and twice the size of New Yorks Central Park. Its sprawling 712 hectares are dotted with ornamental gardens, monuments, a cricket pitch, football pitches, polo club and nature trails. Dublin Zoo is here, and the animal quota is further enhanced with grazing livestock, and a herd of wild Fallow deer. The large white Papal Cross marks the spot where over one million people came to see Pope John Paul II celebrate mass in 1979. At 62m high, the Wellington Monument in the south-east of the park is Europes largest obelisk. Formerly in the Guinness family, the 78 acre Farmleigh estate is home to the beautifully restored Farmleigh House, tel. (+353)(0)1 815 5900, where visiting VIPs overnight, important government meetings are
Phoenix Park A-2, Parkgate St, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1
Garden of Remembrance D-4, Parnell Square, D1. Just off OConnell Street is this small and peaceful park where a sculpture of Irish legend the Children of Lir - turned into swans by a jealous stepmother - overlooks a crucifix-shaped mosaic pond. Opened in 1966 on the 50th anniversary of the Easter Rising, the park is dedicated to those who died in the pursuit of Irish freedom. As the name suggests, this is a tranquil place where you can reflect on life and take a welcome break from the noise and bustle of the city. Merrion Square C-2/3, D2. In a city renowned for its
Georgian architecture, this has to be the eras showpiece square - and certainly the citys largest. It is framed on three sides by beautiful Georgian houses, and on the fourth by the Natural History Museum, National Art Gallery and the garden of Leinster House, the Irish Parliament. Once inside, look for the statue of Oscar Wilde who lived at No. 1 Merrion Square. Other famous residents included WB Yeats, who resided at No. 82, and 19th Century MP and champion of Catholic Emancipation Daniel OConnell. Around its perimeter youll see those famous multi-hued Georgian doors, many of which bear plaques commemorating well-known residents. On Sun from 10:00 - 18:30, the park railings become an art gallery with all paintings available for sale. If you have an eye
Garden of Remembrance
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What to see
Old Jameson Distillery
B-2, Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7, tel. (+353)(0)1 807 2355, book online at www.tours.jamesonwhiskey.com. MLUASSmithfield. Walk across the see-through floor - beneath which lie original stone foundations - and enter the evocative world of John Jameson, a Scottish migrant who began making whiskey here in 1780. When a blight destroyed French vineyards in 1858, drinkers turned to whiskey and Jameson reaped the financial rewards. Towards the end of the 19th Century, the distillery was producing 10% of Irelands incredible 90% domination of the international whiskey market. The onset of US Prohibition and Irish Independence, however, ended Jamesons stronghold in the American and Bri tish Empire markets. In 1966 Irelands four remaining distilleries, including Jamesons, united to form Irish Distillers (itself bought over by Pernod Ricard in 1988). Less than a decade later, Jameson opened a modern distillery in Midleton, Co. Cork and retained Dublins site for vatting. Today Jameson remains a local legend and is the worlds bestselling Irish whiskey. As with all Irish whiskeys, Jameson is triple distilled, giving it a distinctly smooth flavour. Blends of varying ages of maturation are produced by the company whose bottles bear the Jameson family motto Sine Metu or Without Fear. At this atmosphere-steeped visitor centre, tour guides take small groups of visitors through the interactive whiskey-making process. Discover how the finely-honed skills of malting, fermenting, distilling and maturation transform water, barley and yeast into this famous drink - minus the Angels Share... Enormous copper stills, original shoes worn by the distillers, and Smithy, the distillerys famous mousemunching cat, are all part of this eclectic tour experience. At the end, everyone receives a complimentary Jameson - straight or mixed to your preference - and volunteers get the chance to earn a coveted whiskey tasting certificate. The Mezzanine level 3rd Still Restaurant - named after the whiskeys famous triple maturation process - overlooks the bijou yet effortlessly glamorous entrance with
its exposed brick, glistening chandelier and Jameson family portraits. Enjoy a sumptuous lunch, dessert or dinner- some brandishing that Jameson flavour - or try an authentic Irish coffee or sophisticated whiskey cocktail at JJs Bar. And for a truly unique souvenir, treat yourself or a super special mate to a personalised bottle of Jameson Distillery Reserve (12 Year Old) which can only be bought at the exclusive Jameson gif t shop. The distillery is right beside the Smithfield red Luas Line stop making it very easy to reach. Q Mon-Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last tour 17:15. Adult 13, Conc. 9.60, Children 7.70 Family (2+3) 29. Book online for 10% discount. Irish Nights at the Old Jameson Distillery The popular Irish Shindig Nights return to the Old Jameson Distillery from April-October. A celebration of all things Irish, the Nights include a tour of the distillery, exceptional live entertainment and a four course meal made using fresh Irish ingredients... and all, of course, accompanied by the finest Irish whiskey. The Irish Shindig Nights begin with a guided tour of the Distillery followed by fresh local cuisine with notable whiskey elements. How about Jameson infused Irish Smoked Salmon for starters and marinated Wexford strawberries on fluffy Pavlova with Jameson Chantilly cream for dessert? And your choice of mains is between Irish chicken fillet stuffed with sage and Irish white pudding stuffing or flash seared fillet of Kilmore Quay cod with lemon caper butter. After dinner, celebrated musicians the Jameson Players perform their mix of traditional and contemporary Irish music, while the Claddagh Dancers bring an exhilarating energy to the performance. Be warned audience participation is encouraged! The Shindig nights take place every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening, from 19:00 - 23:00. Price, including tour, Jameson drink, four course meal and live entertainment, is 60 per person. Book online on www.tours.jamesonwhiskey.com for a 20% discount!
What to see
held and the public can enjoy tours, events and occasional food markets. Across the road from the US Ambassadors Residence is perhaps the parks most significant building ras an Uachtarin, tel. (+353)(0)1 617 1000, official residence of the President of Ireland. Free guided tours are held every Sat on a first come, first served basis and tickets are available at the Parks Visitor Centre. QVisitor Centre open daily 09:30 - 17:30. Follow sign from the Phoenix Monument. call it. Muhammad Ali fought here, and U2, Robbie Williams and Take That have performed in front of thousands. Croke has conference facilities, a GAA Museum showcasing the history of the sport and stadium, and regular daily stadium tours (except match days). And its new 2hr Etiha Skyline Tour takes you 17 storeys up and 0.6km along five viewing platforms for unrivalled Croker and city vistas. The stadium is a 20min north-east walk from OConnell Street.QSept-May: Mon-Sat 09:30 - 17:00, Sun 11:30 - 17:00, June-Aug: Mon-Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Museum & Stadium Tour: 12, U12 8, conc. 9, (2+2) 32, U5 free. Skyline Tour 25/15. Museum only, match day and group rates also available.K
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St. Stephens Green B/C-3, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 7816, www.heritageireland.ie. MLuas St. Stephens Green. At the top of Grafton Street is undoubtedly one of Dublins top attractions and arguably Irelands most prominent Victorian park. Once the domain of the citys well-to-do, this 22acre park was opened to the public and re-designed in the late 19th Century, with help from the Guinness family. Enter the Grafton Street end through the Fusiliers Arch or Traitors Gate which commemorates the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who died during the Second Boer War. Other memorials of note include a Wolfe Tone statue and Famine sculpture (known by some as Tonehenge on account of their stark stone design), James Joyce bust, and the Yeats Garden with Henry Moore sculpture. Children love feeding the ducks in the large lake which is crossed by Dublins other OConnell Bridge. War Memorial Gardens South Circular Rd, Islandbridge, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0236, www.heritageireland.ie. The names of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in WWl are recorded in eight volumes housed in the granite Bookrooms of these graceful 20 acre gardens. Situated near Phoenix Parks landmark obelisk, the Gardens were designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens (who also designed Londons Cenotaph) and laid out by an equal contingent of ex-British Army and Irish National Army servicemen. The Sunken Rose Garden, Irish granite War Stone, Cross of Sacrifice, and lily ponds and fountains fed from the nearby Liffey lend gravitas to the elegant surroundings. After decades of war, abandonment and erosion the Gardens were brought back to their former glory and - for the first time in their history - officially opened on 1 July 2006 - the 90th anniversary of the Battle of the Somme. The dedication was presided over by former Irish President Mary McAleese and attended by diginitaries from both sides of the border, representing both communities. Guided Tours and viewings of the Bookrooms can be arranged in advance. Q Mon - Fri 08:00, Sat & Sun 10:00. Closed according to daylight hours. Free. L
Tours
City Sightseeing Tours B-2, Desk 1, Dublin Tourism
Centre, Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 605 7705, www. irishcitytours.com. These hop-on hop-off 90min tours have local guides providing entertaining commentary on their two routes. The 24hr ticket and 25 stops ensures you see most sights without having to stretch your legs. Q09:15 - 18:00 (summer), 09:30 - 16:30 (winter) every 8-15mins from 14 Upr. OConnell St. Adult 18/16, 2 x U14 free. with each paying adult. Walk, D1, MLUAS Middle Abbey St., tel. (+353)(0)1 473 0000, www.liffeyrivercruises.com. These 45min tours cruise daily along the River Liffey from March-Nov. Custombuilt and wheelchair accessible The Spirit of Docklands boat departs from Bachelors Walk and takes a guided journey through the history of Dublin from the invasion of the Vikings over 1000 years ago to the development of the citys thriving docklands area. QTours daily. Adults 14, Conc. 12, U18 10, 4-15 8, U4 free. J
Liffey River Cruises B-2, The Boardwalk, Bachelors
Sports Stadiums
MCharlemont, tel. (+353)(0)1 238 2300, www.avivastadium.ie. Dublins latest sporting colossus replaced Lansdowne Road - the original home of Irish international rugby and football. The undulating arena holds 50,000 spectators and, with Irelands reputation for rainy weather, its good to know the tiered seating is covered with that curved roof. The stadium also hosts music concerts, and you can get a sense of what it feels like to be a player with a behind the scenes tour. Q Tours: Daily 10:00 - 16:00. Adult 10, conc. 7, child 5, U5 free.
Aviva Stadium F-1, Lansdowne Rd, Ballsbridge, D4,
Viking Splash Tours C-3, dep. Stephens Green North, tel. (+353)(0)1 707 6000, www.vikingsplash.com. Chitty Chitty Bang Bang has nothing on this beast which has been roaming Dublins streets and seas for around a decade. Sporting a Viking Helmet in homage to the citys Scandinavian origins, and roaring at passers by like a pillager possessed, tourists take in land-based sights such as St. Patricks Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral, Trinity College, Leinster House and Merrion Square before dipping into the water at the renovated Docklands. The tours take place in reconditioned amphibious WWII vehicles called Dukws which also took part in the D-Day landings at Normandy. Each tour lasts around 75mins (55mins on land and 20mins in Grand Canal Harbour). Tours dep. Stephens Green North, near Grafton St.. Look for the Viking Splash Tours bus stop just behind the taxi rank and water fountain. Q Tours daily. Adult 20, Student/Senior 18, 3-12 10, 2+3 60. Children U3 can travel but must alight during water section of the tour. Dublin 1916 Rebel Walking Tour B-2, dept. Sinn Fein Bookshop, 58 Parnell Sq (near Parnell Monument, top of OConnell St), tel. (+353)(0)1 814 8542, www.sinnfeinbookshop.com. Follow in the footsteps of Michael Collins, James Connolly and Pdraig Pearse as Irish republicans recount Irelands fight for freedom in these 90min historic walking tours. Learn the story behind the 1916 Easter Rising when the Irish Citizen Army and the Irish Volunteers came together as the Irish Republican Army (IRA) to take on the might of the British Empire. The tour takes in the events leading up to - and following - the Rising, and visits places where Irelands history unfolded and, in the words of Yeats, a terrible beauty was born. QMon-Fri: 11:30, Sat. by appointment. 10. August - September 2012
Croke Park C-1, New Cusack Stand, Croke Park, St.
Josephs Ave, D3, tel. (+353)(0)1 819 2323, www. crokepark.ie/gaa-museum. Home to Gaelic Football, Hurling, Camogie and Handball, Croke Park is one of the worlds most spectacular stadiums and the countrys largest, with a capacity of 82,300. Headquarters of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA), the venue is steeped in history and holds a pivotal place in Irish nationalism. The first Special Olympics to be held outside the USA were staged at Croker, as locals
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What to see
My Goodness, its Guinness
Guinness Storehouse A-2, St. Jamess Gate, D8,
tel. (+353)(0)1 408 4800, www.guinness-storehouse.com. A gargantuan glass of Guinness greets guests as they enter this cathedral to the worlds most famous brew. Rising through the Storehouse Atriums seven storeys, from the ground floor to the GRAVITY Bar, this hollow steel-beamed structure would - if it were made of glass - hold 14.3m pints of the black stuff. Now thats some night out. The Guinness Storehouse dates back to 1904 when it was instrumental in the fermenting process. It was later converted into this magnificent visitor experience and opened to the public in 2000. Located at the heart of the sprawling Guinness complex, the building brims with the enticing aroma of the brewing stout. The fully-rounded visitor experience begins with an introduction to the four magic ingredients; water, barley, hops and yeast. Next a virtual master brewer explains the alchemy that transforms them into the creamy pint. With good timing, you could be one of 100 visitors chosen each week to Start the Brew with the touch of a computer button. Here, too, you can Taste the Brew under the professional guidance of the Tasting Team. Histories of the transportation process and the art of coopering (barrel-making) are also revealed. And a large projector illustrates the international reach of this iconic drink. the more ravenous among you, the Brewery Bar s er ves a great range o f global cuisine and traditional Irish dishes, many of which are infused with the unmistakable Guinness taste. The pice de rsistance of any Storehouse visit has to be a trip to the seventh floor G R AV I T Y B a r, where a complimentar y pint of creamy Guinness can be savoured against a stunning 360 backdrop of its home city. Back at the ground floor, the flagship Guinness Store sells a vast array of branded merchandise and memorabilia, and is always bustling with enthusiastic visitors keen to bag a few eye-catching collectibles. The Guinness Storehouse is a 15min walk from the city centre. From Dame St. (outside Trinity College), follow the road, passing Christ Church on the right, leading to Thomas St. At Crane St. turn left, and at the end of the road turn right onto Market St. Alternatively catch a bus or the Luas red line to St. James stop. Drivers can use the free car park, but make sure you arrive in good time as spaces fill up very quickly. Some metered spaces are also available outside. Q Daily 09:30 - 17:00 (July & Aug 19:00). Adult 14.40, 18+ with Student ID 10.60, Senior Citizen 10.50, U-18 with student ID 8.50, 6-12 4.80, 2+4 32.50. 10% adult discount online.
Just as famous as the drink itself has been Guinnesss ground-breaking advertising campaigns. The second floor is dedicated to this creative genius, with posters, TV ads and branded memorabilia bringing decades of awardwinning campaigns together in one unique art collection. The third floors interactive Choice Zone concentrates on the effects of drink and reminds us all to enjoy without excess. On the next level is a history of the building as told through copies of photos and documents from the extensive Guinness Archive. Hone your pint pouring skills - no easy feat for any Guinness virgin - at the fifth floors Source Bar where you can also sample various Guinness incarnations - from the original Extra Stout to the brewhouse series. And for
WHERE LEGEND LIVES

Visit the magical home of GUINNESS in Dublin.
Let gravity work its magic and pull you towards Irelands No. 1 International visitor attraction. Craft your own pint, enjoy the Gravity Bars spectacular views of Dublin and let 250 years of Guinness heritage slowly settle into your heart and soul.
Book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com and get 10% off adult tickets.

Guinness Storehouse, St Jamess Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800 dublin.inyourpocket.com
The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2012.
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temple bar
This cultural, entertainment and imbibement hub attracts swathes of city newcomers. Lying south of the Liffey, between Westmoreland and Fishamble Streets, its cobbled thoroughfares reveal boutique hotels, speciality sh ops, b oh o ca fs an d th ose all -impor tant pu bs. Meeting House and Temple Bar Squares provide further congregational opportunities for lost or weary souls, and the formers canopies make for eye-catching cover. The areas share of restaurants, galleries, theatres, shops and an arthouse cinema reaffirm Dublins cultured vibe. Mingle with fellow foodies at the Temple Bar Food Market (Sat 10:00 - 16:30). Then get with the beautiful people at the Designer Mart at Cows Lane in Old City Temple Bar (Sat 10:00 - 17:00). And complete your super market sweep at the reassuringly erudite Temple Bar Book Market (Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00). Some nice second-hand CD shops and a fair few funky clothes emporiums add to the eclectic retail experience (see Crow Street feature overleaf). Temple Bar is as much about the fun and laid-back daytime vibe as it is the well-established nightlife scene. Explore its cultural side and discover more to this party hub than meets your average guidebook.
Temple Bar Food Market
Button Factory Curved St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 9202, www.buttonfactory.ie. Recently redone and all the better for it, The Button Factory boasts a nicer layout, dcor and, most importantly, sound system. As well as an intimate music venue, it also holds great indie-style club nights. As you might imagine, its a pretty young crowd- mostly students. Irish Film Institute (IFI) 6 Eustace St, tel. (+353) (0)1 679 3477, www.irishfilm.ie. Just off Dame St. is this cinema with an extremely popular with the in-crowd bar, restaurant and bookshop. This old Quaker Meeting House was transformed in the 90s to become a cinema and film archive centre for Ireland. Independent and foreign language films are usually exclusively screened at this sleek venue. Festivals and special seasons showcasing international cinema, make the IFI a great place to see diverse and intelligent films and mingle with fellow movie buffs.
New Theatre 43 East Essex St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 3361, www.thenewtheatre.com. This intimate theatre is found by entering Connolly Books in Temple Bar. Acclaimed Irish actor Ronan Wilmot is the theatres Joint Artistic Director.Perfect for smaller performances, its location in the heart of Temple Bar and opposite the Clarence Hotel ensures a steady stream of clued-up culture lovers. Project Arts Centre 39 East Essex St, tel. (+353)
(0)1 881 9613, www.projectartscentre.ie. Dance, music, th eatre and th e ar ts call this contemporar y creative space home. Liam Neeson and Gabriel Byrne perfected their acting skills here. And the theatre has also showcased the writings of acclaimed Irish film directors Jim Sheridan and Neil Jordan.
Ark, A Cultural Centre for Children 11a Eustace
St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 7788, www.ark.ie. This innovative creative space is Europes first custom-built arts centre for children by children. This Temple Bar gem combines galleries, workshops, an outdoor amphitheatre and indoor theatre designed to entertain and enlighten young people aged 3-14. Check out its imaginative programme and give the kids a holiday to remember too.
Map courtesy TASCQ, www.visit-templebar.com
beyond dUbLIn
39
Glendalough
(+353)(0)1 281 8119, w w w.glendaloughbus.com. For over ei gh t d e cad es this 100% Irish, famil y-run business has been spiriting visitors the 30miles from Dublin to the Co. Wicklow villa ge of Glendalough. Named after, and inspire d b y, Gl en daloughs St. Kevin, the 80min modern coach tour follows a picture postcard route to the 6th Century site where the Saint established a Christian settlement. Stunning scenery unfolds as you head south along the coast to Bray, then inland and upward through the Great and Little Sugar Loaf mountains. Yet more mountains, lakes and heather-clad plains dip in and out of view as you wend your way to Roundwood - said to be Irelands highest village - and past Annamoe Valley and the village of Laragh where fantastic views of Glendalough and its 33m Round Tower are revealed. Once at Glendalough, take time to explore the seven churches of St. Kevin - where a Monastic settlement was founded - and the shores of the villages two enchanting lakes. Q Year round daily: 11:30 & 18:00. March-Sept: Mon-Fri 11:30 & 18:00, Sat, Sun & Public Holidays: 11:30 & 19:00.
St. Kevins Bus Ser vice C-2, tel.
Buses dept. Dublin Bus Terminus, Dawson St. (opp. Mansion House). Tickets can be purchased on-board the bus. Adult/U14 20/12 return, 13/7 single.
Dun Laoghaire and Dalkey

Tucked beneath the Dublin Mountains on the southern fringes of Dublin Bay lies Dun Laoghaire, a popular seaside town seven miles from Dublin city centre on the DART line. The resort became the city dwellers getaway when the railway arrived in 1834. Its name comes from Dun - Irish for fort - and King Laoghaire (pronounced Leary) said to be the 5th century son of St. Patricks captor, Niall of the Nine Hostages. Built in the early 19th century of nearby Dalkey granite, the harbours East and West Piers jut out like giant pincers nipping the Irish sea. Take a stroll along the East Pier and treat yourself to ice-cream from Teddys - a bit of a local institution. Dun Laoghaires sailing status is further represented by the Ferry Terminal complex (Stena sailings to Holyhead), 700-berth Marina (Irelands largest), several yacht clubs and the National Maritime Museum. Evidence of Dun Laoghaires Victorian origins also includes elegant seafront terraces, the Peoples Park and a beautifully restored cast iron fountain. The 19th Century County Hall clock tower is another local landmark, as is the modern Pavilion Centre with its shops, restaurants, bars and Pavilion Theatre. Famous Irish writers James Joyce and Samuel Beckett have strong associations with the area. Beckett was born in nearby Foxrock and Joyce set the opening chapter of Ulysses in Sandycoves Martello Tower - now the small James Joyce Museum.
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BEYOND DUBLIN
Rathfarnham Castle
Further along the coastline, the heritage town of Dalkey is a chic seaside destination thats home to Bono, The Edge, film director Neil Jordan, author Maeve Binchy and singer Van Morrison. Dont miss 15th Century Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre with its living history performances. The cobbled-street town is also a haven for boutique shopping, cafs and restaurants. If visiting at the weekend indulge your taste-buds at the CoCo Farmers Markets, held at Dalkey (Fri), Marlay Park (Sat) and the Peoples Park (Sun). And nearby Dundrum has Irelands largest shopping centre. DART, Luas and Bus routes all serve the area. To find out more log onto www. visitdublin.com/dlr.
Malahides Coast and Castle

Many Dublin visitors make this final stop on the Northern DART line their out-of-city base. And its relaxing coastal location, proximity to Howth (see below) and access to the city make it easy to understand why. The Grand Hotel is something of a Malahide landmark. Built in the 19th Century, the Grand gained popularity with the arrival of the railway... then the tourists. Home to musicians Adam Clayton (U2) and Ronan Keating (Boyzone) and actor Brendan Gleeson, Malahides village-like atmosphere and seaside location ensure its status as one of Irelands most affluent addresses. A stroll around town shows off cute boutiques, tasty delis, trad bars and some fine dining options. And wannabe P Diddys can gaze longingly . at the yachts bobbing in the 350-berth Marina. But its a much more historic VIP who gave Malahide its mustsee status. Richard Talbot, a knight of Henry ll, accompanied the king to Ireland in 1174 and was given the lands and harbour of Malahide (sure beats a souvenir shillelagh). On this land was built Malahide Castle which his family called home for an unprecedented 791 years - save for an eleven year hiatus courtesy of Oliver Cromwell. In 1975, due to crippling inheritance taxes, descendent Rose Talbot sold the Castle and its magnificent Demesne to the Irish State. Today the Castle is undergoing a major 10m renovation and is due to open in late summer 2012 with Avoca shop and restaurant as its anchor tennant. When it does, highlights will, once again, include the Great Hall and Oak Room. Meanwhile, visitors can continue to enjoy its 250 acres of parkland including childrens playground. For more info on Malahide and the Castle log onto www.visitdublin.ie.
Rathfarnham, D14, tel. (+353)(0)1 493 9461, www.heritageireland.ie/en/Dublin/RathfarnhamCastle/. The toys are back in town! Classically associated with architecture and a fine collection of family portraits, this magnificent building, c.8km south of Dublin city centre, now houses the Berkeley Costume and Toy Collection. Made up of 18th and 19th Century toys, dolls and costumes, the collection tells a social history of its own and breathes life into the Castles grand interiors. This splendorous 18th Century building dates back to the Elizabethan period and was built to protect Dublin from attack from Wicklow clans. Immerse yourself in its rich history and, if the toys arent enough to keep the little ones occupied, head for the playground in the Castle grounds, then refuel at the Stuart and Chambers Tearooms. Find it about 3.5miles south of Dublin city. Q Tue-Sun 10:00 - 17:15 (Summer), Wed-Sun 10:30 17:00 (Winter/Spring). Free. LK
Howth
Where the coastline juts out at Howth Head, 13km north of the city, youll find this quaint, prosperous fishing town. At the end of one of two Northern DART lines, Howth (rhymes with both) is easily accessible from the city (c.30mins) and extremely worthy of a daytrip. Views from Howth Head
are wide-sweeping and include Irelands Eye, an uninhabited island with ruins of a 19th Martello Tower and 8th century church. Esteemed residen ts past and present - of this exclusive piece of Irish real estate include U2s Larry Mullen, Thin Lizzy fron tman Phil Lynott and Eurovision legend Johnny Logan. Highligh ts of a trip to Howth include the East and West Piers, Baily Lighthouse, 14th Century St. Marys Church, Martello Tower Radio Museum and 15th Century Howth Castle. The village has several fine bars and restaurants, among them Tophouse Krugers, Big Blue, Caffe Caira, Ella, The Cock Tavern, Okra Green Asian Cuisine and Beshoffs, and its fishing heritage ensures locally-caught seafood is often on the menu. To find out more, visit www.fingaldublin.ie or www. howthismagic.com.
BEYOND DUBLIN
41
Eat, sleep & drink

Big Blue 30 Church St, Howth, tel. (+353)(0)1
832 1007, http://bigbluehowth.com/. This Spanish Tapas Bar and Restaurant serves up the real deal, with an authentic collection of delicious Iberian treats, including Andalucia Chicken Wings, Patatas Bravas and Chorizo a la Cidra, cooked to order. Turf fires and a birds eye view of Howth harbour and Irelands Eye make this a special spot. Live Spanish music and twice monthly Paella Nights get the party going - add a jug of sangria and youre away - ol! QWed-Sun 13:00 - 22:00, -. (+353)(0)1 839 5876. Once a favourite watering hole of Thin Lizzys Phil Lynott, this traditional pub sits on a small hill in the heart of Howth village. The music connection continues with past patrons including The Pogues Shane MacGowan, and Slash from Guns N Roses who came in homage to the Thin Lizzy frontman. Snuggle up beside the open fire, enjoy a soothing Irish Coffee and spark up a conversation with the locals. Recently refurbished and under new management, the Tavern prides itself on providing the cheapest pint in Dublin. A fine beer garden, games room and plenty of big screens for major sporting events makes it a welcoming spot and a far cry from the pomp of certain city bars. Definitely worth dropping in for a pint... but dont forget the last DART back to Connolly Station is at 23:55. Q Mon-Thur 10:00 - 23:30, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. E
Cock Tavern 18 Church St, Howth, Co Dublin, tel.
Deer Park Hotel, Golf & Spa Howth Castle, Howth,
Co Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 832 2624, www.deerparkhotel.ie. Nine miles north of the city centre in the lovely little fishing village of Howth lies this long-established golf and spa resort. Set in the historic estate of Howth Castle, which has been in the hands of the same family since Norman times, the hotels grounds boast, as HG Wells put it, the finest views west of Naples. Its a golfers paradise, but the stunning views over Dublin Bay and Irelands Eye may distract you from your swing. And for those who dont want to play a round theres also a spa, swimming pool, tennis courts and fine restaurant, not to mention the excellent Kitchen In The Castle cookery school. Courtesy buses can bring you into the village, and there are great packages available for golf, spa or cookery weekends. Q Rooms 75-180 (single rooms 45-120). Family rooms also available. HFLKDCW
42
BEYOND DUBLIN
Powerscourt House & Gardens and the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Co. Wicklow
Prepare to be wowed at this stunning five star hotel and spa set in the luscious surroundings of Co. Wicklows Powerscour t Estate. Whether visiting as a couple or family, there are plenty of packages to suit all ages and ensure your stay is extra special. Of which more later... Part of the renowned Ritz group, this grand Palladian-style hotel opened in October 2007 and overlooks Sugar Loaf Mountain. And its pastoral location means you can stroll to the equally sumptuous 18th century Powerscourt House & Gardens with its Avoca shop and cafe, magnificent lake and picturesque walks. Further exploration reveals Japanese, Italian and Walled Gardens, the quirky Pepperpot Tower and a Pets Cemtery, the largest of its kind in Ireland. All in all this lush expanse reinforces Wicklows envious status as the Garden of Ireland. B eyon d th e Esta te, scenic mountain drives to quaint and historic villages such as Glendalough, Avoca an d neighbouring Enniskerry add to the areas charm. And a short drive to Powerscourt Waterfall - Irelands highest - will have you reeling at the concentration of must-see sights amid this stunning lndscape. Back at the hotel, the 4th floor lobby rewards your return with yet more of those enviable vistas. Over half of the hotels rooms are suites - one is Irelands largest - and all the antique-style furniture is bespoke. Rainforest showers, marble baths and electronically controlled lights, curtains and air-con come as standard and the 20m swimming pool is illuminated with Swarovski crystal lights. Sensuous ESPA spa treatments range from The Warming Peat Ritual to Salt and Oil Scrub, and the Thermal Suite includes a Sauna, Vitality Pool and Amethyst Crystal Steam Room. And theres more... one of the three dining areas is celebrity chef Gordon Ramsays Irish debut, and comes complete with fantastic chefs table from which to watch the professionals at work. The cosy and nformal McGills Irish Pub serves up traditional food and the obligatory pint of Guinness. Guests can also land their chopper on the hotels helipad, then sink putts in the two course Powerscourt Golf Club. Childrens Programmes ensure junior guests enjoy an overnight to remember, too. What little boy or girl could resist the Happy Camper (from 40pp) - their very own tent pitched in your room with a secret picnic and torch for midnight munchies? Daughters will delight in The Little Princess package (from 40pp) complete with regal dress and spa nail varnish - both available to take home. And in-room film fun is served up with A Night at the Movies (from 20pp) when their fave flick can be viewed on beanbags as they enjoy popcorn, snacks and soft drinks. A Games Room, Ritz-Kids Check-In, Childrens Menu and babysitting services keep mums and dads as happy as their offspring. Free bicycle hire helps all the family explore the grounds. And all ages will relish a visit to Taras Palace - a sumptuous history-steeped Dolls House displayed at Powerscourt House and surrounded by an equally fascinating collection of childhood memorabilia. The perfect way to round off your family-friendly stay at one of Irelands best hotels and Wicklows garden gem. Find it signposted off the M11 south of County Dublin.
Powerscourt House & Gardens Powerscourt Es-
tate, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow, tel. (+353) (0)1 204 6000, www.powerscourt.ie.Q Open year-round daily 09:30 - 17:30. Garden entrance fees: Adult 8.50, conc. 7.50, U16 5, U5 Free, Family (2+3) 25. Waterfall open May-Aug 09:30 - 19:00, March, April, Sept & Oct 10:30 17:30, Nov-Feb 10:30 - 16:00. Waterfall entrance fees: Adult 5.50, conc. 5, U16 3.50, U2 Free, Family (2+3) 16.
Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow, tel. (+353) (0)1 274 8888, www.ritzcarlton.com/Powerscout. Intrigue You Package from 320 per night (until December 31, 2012). Incl. overnight in deluxe room and daily Irish breakfast buffet for two people. Pay for two nights, stay for three (min. three night stay). See website for all the latest rates, deals and packages Q 200 rooms. HFLEKDCW hhhhh Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com
BEYOND DUBLIN
Castle Leslie
among the rooms exuding that grand historic vibe. At the entrance and overlooking the Equestrian Centre, the equally atmospheric Lodge has been sympathetically renovated to provide contemporary accommodation with distinct period details. The Victorian Spa is the perfect spot to unwind with Steam Boxes, extensive treatments menu and a hot tub overlooking the stables. And the Lodges award-winning Snaffles Restaurant and traditional Conors Bar provide the perfect gourmet and informal backdrops to your dining and imbibing experience.
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Glaslough, Co.Monaghan, tel. +353 (0)47 88100, www.castleleslie.com. Irish castles have long held a romantic allure for holidaymakers - both as a daytrip destination and luxury hotel option. Standing proud among this elite group of historic houses is Castle Leslie, the Co. Monaghan seat of the Leslie family... and one-time wedding venue of Paul McCartney and former wife Heather Mills. But its not just the celebrity status that attracts visitors from home and abroad, because this castle and estate provides an unforgettable verdant escape. Dominating the small village of Glaslough, the estates accommodation encompasses the Lodge, Mews, and Castle with a cluster of quaint Cottages in the village itself. From your arrival through the stone pillars and along the gravel path, you feel as though youve entered another world. Which isnt surprising considering the 1000 acre estate boasts its own church, three lakes and equestrian facilities (yes, even horses can have holidays).
A short drive down a narrow track, past horses idly grazing in emerald fields, sits the Old Stable Mews - another meticulous renovation project and the only place on the estate where children can stay. A fully-equipped kitchen and plenty of en-suite and bathroom space, along with playpark and picnic benches, ensure a spacious and fun-filled family stay. The walking routes also keep everyone active and in sync with the great outdoors. Just beyond the castle gates, the Village Cottages provide yet more overnight options. Ideal for large groups or families, the four and five bedroom limestone cottages were built in 2006 and sit serenely around a pristine green. Castle Leslies unique history, authentic feel and unforced charm makes it one of Irelands most coveted overnights. And at just 80 minutes drive from Belfast, and even less from Dublin, this fabulous family home is sitting pretty for that perfect pastoral retreat.Q Check out their website for Late 2012 Offers including Overnight Escape with dinner and wine (from 115pps), Romantic Getaway with dinner, bubbly and spa treatments (from 209pps), two night Girls Getaway in 5-bed Cottage with dinner, fridge filled with food, drink and treats, spa treatments and chick flick (from 209pps) and Five Night Family Break in Cottage with kids activities, stocked fridge, family movies, equestrian fun, spa treatments for the parents and family dinner at Conors Bar (total price 1050). HLKDW
The Leslies have lived here since the 1660s, making it one of Irelands oldest castle estates still owned by the founding family. Over the centuries a panoply of guests, from the Churchills to Mick Jagger, have enjoyed their hospitality. And the colourful patriarch of the family, nonagenarian Sir Jack Leslie, can still be seen enjoying his home and conversing with guests. Todays castle was built in the 19th century in Scottish Baronial style, and each of its twenty history-steeped bedrooms is individually named and designed. Once favoured by Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman, The Print Room features a solid stone tub and megalithic shower. The Nursery is resplendent wih a hand-painted alphabet frieze and ensuite hidden in a large dolls house. And the top-of-the-house Eagles Nest affords sweeping balcony views of the estate. The communal castle space is no less evocative with a library, conservatory and dining area
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Shopping
Chic boutiques, designer department stores, vintage finds and sprawling malls, Dublin has the lot. The main pedestrian shopping strip is Grafton Street, and Temple Bar has some cute one-off shops worth exploring, too. Heres a quick guide to the main malls and souvenir must-sees. abundance of food and drink ranges from the Bagel Factory to Yo! Sushi and virtually every flavour in between. Parking isnt free but you can get 3hrs for 2 - the same price as 1hr. QMon-Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Sun 10:00 - 19:00, FLK
Department Stores
Arnotts B-2, 12 Henry St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 805 0400, www.arnotts.ie. MLuas Jervis St. Irelands oldest department store dates back to 1843 and is ranked by size alongside Harrods and Selfridges in the top five stores in Ireland and Britain. This retail giant has everything from fashion to furniture, linen to lingerie and even an in-house interior design consultant. Get yourself an Irish county GAA jersey or fine local crystal as a truly unique souvenir. Five cafs and sandwich bars should stave off hunger pangs and ensure you dont leave emptyhanded. Turn left at the GPO onto Princess St. for paid parking with lifts to the store. Q09:00 - 19:00, Tue 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.JLK
(0)1 605 6666, www.brownthomas.com. MLuas St. Stephens Green. Rub designer shoulders with Dublins beautiful people at this glistening fashion and beauty flagship store. Opened by haberdashers and general drapers Hugh Brown and James Thomas on Grafton Street in 1849, Brown Thomas is undoubtedly Dublins - and Irelands -most famous store, with additional dazzling branches in Galway, Limerick and Cork. Enter the paradise and immerse yourself in sophisticated threads, sensual lingerie and a kaleidoscope of must-have cosmetics. Theres even a BTkids section for the junior fashionista in your life... hide that piggy bank. And trendsetting teens can slink across the road to the younger BT2, leaving their parents to shop... or wail into their wallets. Q09:00 - 20:00, Thur & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J
Brown Thomas C-2, 88-95 Grafton St, D2, tel. (+353)
Georges Street Arcade B-2, Sth. Gt. Georges St, D2, www.georgesstreetarcade.ie. Dublins first purpose-built Victorian Shopping Centre dates back to 1881. Following a devastating city fire in 1892 which destroyed most of the building, the arcade was restored by local tradesmen and craftspeople and, to this day, retains many of its original features. Take time to walk through and soak up the ambience enjoyed by previous generations of city shoppers. The variety of shops, restaurants and stalls - from fortune teller to fashion, fine art to flowers and souvenirs to accessories - is so eye-catching you can spend an enjoyable afternoon browsing and buying treats for yourself... and the folks back home. And, afterwards, there are plenty of great value foodie options - from freshly roasted coffees to gourmet global cuisine - to satisfy those post-shopping pangs. An authentic and unique retail find right in the heart of Dublin. Q 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JK Jervis Shopping Centre B-2, 125 Upper Abbey St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 1323, www.jervis.ie. MLuas Jervis. This is the largest shopping centre in the city centre and is very centrally located just off OConnell Street. The Red line Luas stops outside and escalators whisk you off to its three floors the first two are shops, and the third restaurants. Open since 1996, all outlets overlook a Central Rotunda from which light floods across all the floors. Retail-wise Debenhams and M&S are the big boys, but there are lots more shopping options and many high street stalwarts. To get there find the Spire then turn down Henry Street and you cant miss it. The large car park is accessed via Jervis St. Q 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:30. JLK Moore Street Mall B-2, Parnell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 3416, www.moorestmall.com. Aiming to be Irelands first multicultural shopping centre, over 30 independent outlets and a cosmopolitan Food Court focus on food, crafts, accessories, household goods and fashion from Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, Eastern Europe and even Ireland. Beauty products and hair salons keep you looking good, and the International Food Market (Wed, 11:00 - 19:00) continues the global gourmet theme. This centre has a lot to offer and demonstrates some of the newer influences and ethnicity in Ireland today. Find it beside Jurys Inn Hotel. Q 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, & Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Powerscourt Townhouse Centre B-2, 59 South William St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 7000, www. powerscourtcentre.com. Just off Grafton St. is a sophisticated shopping centre brimming with stylish boutiques and chi chi Cafs. The Georgian mansion which houses this unique retail experience was built in 1774 with granite from Co. Wicklows Powerscourt Estate. The former residence of MEP Lord Powerscourt (Richard Wingfield), tours (Fri & Sat, 15:00) explain its history, 18th Century life for the privileged and how the centre works around the house, rather than the other way around. Tickets can be bought from the Information Desk. Opened as a Shopping Centre in 1981, Powerscourt elegantly fuses independent shops and galleries with upmarket high street names. The courtyard atmosphere has long been a favourite with the citys elite, so why not join them for an afternoon of pure designer indulgence? Q 10:00-18:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. JW dublin.inyourpocket.com
Clery & Co. B-2, 18-27 Lower OConnell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 6000, www.clerys.ie. MLuas Abbey St. One of the worlds first purpose-built department stores, this retail mecca has occupied the same space since 1853. Being on Dublins main street, Clerys has witnessed and experienced its fair share of history - most significantly when it was destroyed during the 1916 Easter Rising - and is now a listed building, both for this and architecture reasons. In 2004, a 22m revamp saw the department store emerge butterfly-like as a bright, shiny shopping marvel. It still retains its historical grandeur and offers a great selection of fashions, furnishings and fabulous gifts. And, if youre relocating to the city, check out its ingenious Apartment Fit-Out Package designed to take the strain out of your moving experience. Q09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Shopping Centres & Malls

Dundrum Town Centre Sandyford Rd, Dundrum, D16,
tel. (+353)(0)1 299 1700, www.dundrum.ie. MLuas Balally. This sprawling retail and entertainment complex boasts a multiplex cinema, restaurants, bars, nightclub, medical centre, hairdressers, theatre and over 160 shops in its purpose-built Town Square, Gallery and Five Levels of fashion, food and fun. And, although you wouldnt know it, certain parts of the centre are still being built which, once completed, will make Dundrum Europes largest shopping centre. The fabulous Harvey Nichols Boutique - with its Ground Floor caf and signature Top Floor restaurant and bar - and House of Fraser - including Caf Mimo - are Dundrums main department stores. Elsewhere, many more fashion faves enhance the stylish ensemble. And an
Shopping
Stephens Green Shopping Centre B-2, St. Stephens Green West, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 0888, w w w.stephensgreen.com. MLuas St. Stephens Green. Right at the top of Grafton St , in the shadow of St. Stephens Greens Arch, stands this striking iron and glass shopping mecca. Always abuzz with locals and visitors, this retail hubs impressive interior boasts elegant balustrades, a giant centrepiece clock and gleaming glass roof and dome. Over 100 shops inhabit its three levels, from the large Dunnes at the back to many smaller independent units dotted throughout and offering a myriad of gift goodies. Interrupt your shopping and enjoy dessert, coffee and a spot of people watching at Foodlife on the first floor. The Luas Green Line terminates here, so whisking your booty back to base couldnt be simpler. The Centre celebrated its 21th birthday in 2009. Q09:00-19:00, Thu 09:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. JLK
45
Cathach Books C-2, 10 Duke St, off Graf ton St,
tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8676, w w w.rarebooks.ie. In the land of saints, scholars and scribes, this antiquarian bookshop stands head and shoulders above the rest. Shelves positively heave with the works of 20th Century literary greats such as Wilde, Beckett, Joyce, and Yeats... and the shop even stocks first editions of the latter two. Specialist tomes on 17th Century Irish History and topography highlight the shops extensive collection. Check out the online searchable database to source your books of choice. And if you cant find what youre looking for, ask any of the Cunningham family who run the shop and will be more than happy to assist. If you want to bring home a history-steeped souvenir with reams of gravitas, there really is no better place to visit. Q Mon-Sat 9:30 - 17:45.
Bookshops with Cafes

Footprints Bookshop C-2, 3 Joyces Walk, 43 Talbot
St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 836 3764, www.scriptureunion. ie. This inter-denominational Christian Bookshop sells a large range of Bibles, Christian Life books, Praise and Worship and Contemporary Christian music. They also sell cards, gifts and childrens books continuing the shops promotion of Scripture Union in Ireland. Within a few minutes walk of Connolly Train Station, Busras and the OConnell Street Spire, this centrally located haven is also next door to Double T Caf - ideal for yet more spiritual reflection. Q Mon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00. J
Sinn Fin Bookshop & Coffee Shop B-2, 58 Parnell
Sq, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 814 8542, www.sinnfeinbookshop.com. This specialist bookshop stocks a wide range of gifts, books, music, movies, clothing, flags and badges relating to Irelands struggle for freedom. Coffee, tea, soft drinks and a selection of hot and cold snacks are available in between browsing and chatting with the knowledgeable staff about Irelands history and tourist attractions. The Rebel Walking Tours also leave from the shop Mon-Fri at 11:30 and Sat on request. Find it at the junction of the north end of OConnell St. and Parnell St, near the Parnell statue (himself a prominent Irish nationalist politician) and opposite the Rotunda Hospital.
Celtic Whiskey Shop & Wines on the Green C-2, 27-28 Dawson St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 675 9744, www.celticwhiskeyshop.com. MLuas St. Stephens Green. At the top of Dawson St, almost opposite The Mansion House, this quaint shop stocks the citys most varied collection of whiskeys, bourbons and wines. Window displays of aged barrels and rare bottles of spirits lure passers-by and, once inside, the advice and knowledge of the staff is unsurpassed. Purchases, including hampers and gift boxes, can be gift-wrapped and shipped directly to your house. They also hold Tastings and Masterclasses with visiting experts from featured distilleries explaining the distilling process and how different barrels can change the taste and body of the whiskeys. Connoisseurs can join their Whiskey Club on-line and receive advance information about these evenings. Q Mon-Sat 10:30 - 20:00, Sun 12:30 - 18:00.
In Your Pocket Apps

A brand new, free In Your Pocket iPhone app is now a va i l a b l e i n iTunes. Developed in association with Meta4Labs, the app features more than 40 In Your Pocket cities and combines all the best features of In Your Pocket guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and independent information - with the functionality of the iPhone. You can search all venues in a city by location, and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest to you, as well as browse the apps entire content offline. We even supply high-resolution static street and transport maps (exactly the same as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge roaming charges. Other features include fully integrated Google Maps, within-app dialling and web browsing, embedded In Your Pocket video guides, a currency exchange calculator and local weather information. And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are updated regularly by local researchers and native English speaking writers. Visit the App Store on your iPhone or PC/Mac now and search for IYP Guides by name.
Irish gifts and souvenirs

Carrolls Irish Gift Shop B-2, 57 Upper OConnell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 5709, www.carrollsirishgifts. com. MLuas Abbey St. Opened since 1982, Carrolls is an integral part of your Irish retail experience. Whether youre looking for an Irish flag t-shirt, Kiss me Im Irish baseball cap or Irish sports top, this is the store for you. The locals shop here, too, for patriotic gear coming up to St. Patricks Day or major sporting events. A great range of Irish-themed CDs and DVDs make handy souvenirs for the folks back home. And The Football Association of Ireland (FAI) Store on Westmoreland Street ensures you leave brandishing the requisite array of current national/retro football kits. QMonWed 09:00 - 20:00, Thur-Sat until 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also at 98/99 Talbot St, 33 Lower OConnell St, 44 Henry St, 22/23 Suffolk St, 17 Suffolk St, St. Stephens Green Shopping Centre. J

46
Vintage Shopping
Dublin is a modern city but it is very much steeped in the past, and this is reflected in many of the independent vintage shops that help keep us locals looking so good. Sometimes the best treasures are well-hidden and this is true of these boutiques, particularly around the Temple Bar area, where great clothes and accessories from the 1920s to the 1980s can be found on the narrow streets and alleyways. The popularity of period dramas from Boardwalk Empire to W.E. (although lets face it, the only thing going for the latter was the costumes) has made the past the future again, and the current generation of such shops show class, style and an intoxicating coolness you cant help but breathe in. Fine vintage!
Eager Beaver B-2, 17 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 3342. This place has been an established part of Temple Bars Crown Alley for so long the locals dont even snigger at the name anymore. Its two floors stock a huge array of ladies and gents clothing with the emphasis on quality and style at realistic prices - everything from blouses and skirts to cords, combats and corsets, and a great line in shirts, trousers, dresses and suits from days gone by. The eclectic mix of old and new means that as well as modern t-shirts and jeans for those who dont have one foot in the past, theres also a fine line in accessories, hats, braces, bow ties and sunglasses. The shop also offers discounts to local and overseas students. Definitely not to be sniggered at... Q Mon-Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J
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Vintage Shopping
FanciSchmancy Vintage B-2, 4 Upper Fownes St,
Temple Bar, D2. Once you find this boutique youll be delighted at your discovery. A hidden gem in the Temple Bar area, it stocks a great range of accessories, belts, bags and shoes to go along with the vintage dresses, blouses and knitwear. A discount rail sometimes makes an appearance for sharp-eyed browsers, but the prices are all pretty good, meaning you dont have to break into the Central Bank across the road to look fabulous in flawless style. We cant say much about the schmancy side of things, but whether youre a drag queen or a prom queen, even a short visit to this vintage boutique will probably see you leave with something altogether fancy. Q Mon-Wed 12:30 - 18:00, Thur-Fri 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:30 - 18:00. J
47
Siopaella B-2, 25 Temple Lane South, Temple Bar, D2,
tel. (+353)(0)86 840 7825, www.siopaella.com. The Irish translation for Ellas shop and pronounced Shop Ella, this innovative new swap boutique and consignment store features pre-loved designer clothing and accessories from brands ranging from Karen Millen and Topshop to Gucci and Marc Jacobs. The designer clothes come from all over the world, but theres also one-off samples and collections from emerging Irish designers to catch the eye. The inventory changes daily so theres lovely surprises to be had every time you visit. Only the most stylish and best quality clothes are accepted, so whether you love the thrill of the hunt for a unique Chanel or Chloe piece, or are on a mission for some must-have Rock & Republic jeans, come here for your swapping and shopping. Recycling your style means you are doing something good for the environment, your wardrobe, and your wallet! Q Temple Lane South open Tue-Sat 11:30 - 18:30 (later Thu). Crow Street open Tue-Sat 10:30 - 18:30 (later Thu). J
Golly Gosh Boutique B-2, 2 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, D2. It would be difficult fo find this cute little vintage shop through a narrow doorway and up some creaky stairs - were it not for the eye-catching signs outside. Specialising in vintage clothing from the 1920s all the way up to the 90s, the discerning vintage shopper will find hand-picked bespoke and handmade items from right around the world. A new floor showcases upcycled vintage goods, and you can also buy jewellery and accessories made by Irish craft workers and designers. A second shop - Tahiti - has recently opened in the uber-trendy Georges Arcade, so you can double your chances of finding something great to wear. Q Mon-Wed 11:15 - 18:30, Thur 11:15 - 19:00, Fri-Sat 11:15 - 18:30, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. J Shotsy Vintage B-2, Temple Lane South, Temple
Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(1) 679 9652, www.shotsyvintage.ie. The hand-picked, top-quality ladies and gents clothing from the 1950s through to the 1980s here mean you can find something unique while enjoying the craftsmanship of the past. The shops name stems from Lauren Bacalls character Schatze Page in How to Marry a Millionaire - by renting a penthouse and socialising in upmarket establishments to create an impression of affluence. Just like Schatze, in a time when we are all feeling the pinch, Shotsy offers the chance to look a million dollars on a shoestring. Q Mon-Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Thur 11:00 - 20:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
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dublin.inyourpocket.com August - September 2012
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January 2006 Filte Ireland
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Because of the small scale of this map, not all holiday centres can be shown. The information on this map is correct at the time of going to press.
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Whilst every care has been taken to ensure accuracy in the compilation of this map, Filte Ireland cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.
Li m er ick Ro sc om R m H oss on ar la bo re S ur Ai han rp no or n t

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al
Street regiSter
Abbey St Adelaide Rd Amiens St Appian Way Arbour Hill Ardee St Arran Quay Aston Quay Aughrim St Aungier St Bachelors Walk Ballsbridge Ballybough Rd Bath Ave Bath St Benburb St Blackhall Place Blackhorse Ave Bolton St Bow St Bride St Bridge St Bridgefoot St Brunswick St Burgh Quay Burlington Rd Busaras Cabra Rd Camden St Canal Rd Capel St Clanbrassil St College St Connolly Station Constitution Hill Conyngham Rd Cork St Croke Park Custom House Quay Dawson St Dolphins Barn Rd Dominick St Donore Ave Dorset St Dowth Ave Drury St Dufferin Ave Duke St Earlsfort Terrace East Rd East Wall Rd East Wall Rd Eccles St Eden Quay Elgin Rd Ellis Quay Fairview Fairview Pk Fenian St Georges Quay Grafton St B-2 B/C-3 C-2 C-3 A-2 B-3 B-2 B-2 A-1 B-2/3 B-2 D-3 C-1 D-3 D-3 A-2 B-2 A-1 B-2 B-2 B-3 B-2 B-2 B-2 C-2 C-3 C-2 A-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B-3 C-2 C-2 B-2 A-2 A/B-3 C-1 C-2 C-2 A-3 B-2 A/B-3 B-2 B-1 B-2 B-3 C-2 C-3 D-2 C/D-1 D-2 B-1 C-2 C/D-3 B-2 C-1 C/D-1 C-2 C-2 B/C-2 Grand Canal Quay C-2 Grand Canal St C-2/3 Grand Parade C-3 Grangegorman Upper B-1/2 Haddington Rd C-3 Halliday Rd A-2 Hanover Quay C/D-2 Hanover St East C-2 Harcourt St B-3 Hatch St Lower C-3 Hatch St Upper B-3 Henry St B-2 Herbert Park C/D-3 Herbert Rd D-3 Heuston Station A-2 Heytesbury St B-3 High St B-2 Chancery St B-2 Charlemont Place B/C-3 Church Rd C/D-1 Church Rd C/D-2 Infirmary Rd A-2 Inns Quay B-2 Irish Financial Services Centre C-2 Kevin St B-3 Kildare St C-2/3 Kilmainham A-2 Lansdowne Rd D-3 Leeson Park C-3 Leeson St Upper C-3 Lord Edward St B-2 Lower Baggot St C-3 Lower Drumcondra Rd B-1 Lower Gardiner St C-2 Lower Leeson St C-3 Macken St C-2 Mangan Rd B-3 Manor St A-2 Marlborough St C-2 Marrowbone Lane A-2/3 Mary St B-2 Marys Lane B-2 Meath St B-2 Merchants Quay B-2 Merrion Rd D-3 Merrion Row C-3 Merrion Square C-2/3 Mespil Rd C-3 Molesworth St C-2 Moore St B-2 Mountjoy Square C-1 Mountjoy St B-1/2 Nassau St C-2 New St B-3 North Circular Rd B/C-1 North Frederick St B-1/2 North King St B-2 North Wall Quay C/D-2 Northumberland Rd C-3 OConnell St B-2 Old Cabra Rd A-1 Old Kilmainham A-2 Ormond Quay Lower B-2 Ormond Quay Upper B-2 Oxmantown Rd A-1/2 Parkgate St A-2 Parnell Rd A/B-3 Parnell Square B-2 Parnell St B-2 Patrick St B-2 Pearse St C-2 Pearse Station C-2 Pembroke Rd C/D-3 Pembroke St C-3 Phibsborough Rd B-1 Phoenix Park A-1/2 Pimlico B-2/3 Poplar Row C-1 Portland Row C-1 Prussia St A-1 Queen St B-2 Rainsford St A/B-2 Ranelagh C-3 Rathdown B-1 Rathmines Rd B-3 Richmond Rd C-1 Richmond St B-3 Ringsend Rd C/D-2 Rutland Ave D-2 Sandymount Ave D-3 Sandymount Rd D-3 Sean MacDermott St C-2 Serpentine Ave D-3 Seville Place C-2 Shelbourne Park D-2/3 Shelbourne Rd D-3 Sherriff St C/D-2 Sir John Rogerson Quay C/D-2 Smithfield B-2 South Anne St B/C-2 South Circular Rd A/B-3 South Great Georges St B-2 South King St South Lotts Rd South William St St. Jamess St St. Johns Rd St. Marys Rd South St. Stephens Green Stephen St Stephens Lane Suffolk St Suir Rd Summerhill Sundrive Rd Sussex Rd Synge St Talbot St Temple Bar Temple St The Coombe Thomas St Tolka Quay Toll Bridge Townsend St Trinity College Tritonville Rd Upper Baggot St Upper Gardiner St Upper Merrion St Upper Mount St Ushers Quay Victoria Quay Walting St Wellington Quay Wellington Rd Werburgh St Westland Row Wicklow St Wilton Terrace Windsor Rd Wolfe Tone Quay York Rd York St B-2 D-2/3 B-2 A-2 A-2 C-3 B/C-3 B-2 A-2 B/C-2 D-2 C-1 D-2 C-3 B-3 C-2 B-2 B-1 B-3 A/B-2 D-2 D-2 C-2 C-2 D-3 C-3 B/C-1 C-2/3 C-3 B-2 A-2 A-2 B-2 C-3 B-2 C-2 B-2 C-3 C-1 A-2 D-2 B-3
51
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