Instruction and Assembly

Manual for Filastruder

Written by Tim Elmore

Contact: filastruder@gmail.com
Extruder Version: 1.1 (Kickstarter Release)
Instructions Version: 1.1 (Kickstarter Release)

Cautions and Warnings:

The Filastruder can reach very high temperatures (>200C), and high pressures (>150psi). Exercise
caution.

Some polymers can undergo thermal decomposition resulting in potentially toxic fumes. Always use
the Filastruder in a well ventilated area, and understand the thermal decomposition properties of the
polymer you are extruding. It is recommended that you use a smoke detector, and/or a carbon
monoxide detector.

The Filastruder is a first-generation, experimental piece of hardware. Treat it as such. It is not a

toaster or microwave. Do not leave the house or go to sleep with it running. Be sure to check in on it
periodically. Basically, use common sense. If you have a question, post about it on the forum (where
you downloaded this documentation from).

Assembly Instructions:
Raw Parts kit > RTA (ready to assemble) kit: (ET: 30 mins)
Tools needed:
Dremel with grinding wheel
3D Printer
1.)
2.)
3.)
4.)

Debur nipple cutout with file, dremel, or deburring tool

Print hopper body (100% infill), optionally hopper funnel, electronics box
Grind lips of nipples until there is no ridge left on inside of nipple
Grind/file/cut the one edge of the #8 washer so it fits in the square flat in the hex socket

If you need to drill a nozzle:

1.) Drill brass plug for extrusion: 1/16 for 1.75mm, 7/64 for 3.0mm all the way through, 1/8
to a depth of 3/16 (figure 3), and 1/16 diameter hole 3/16 deep in one of the flats for the
thermocouple
RTA kit > RTR (ready to run) extruder (mechanical) (ET: 1 hr)
Tools needed:
Drill (1/8 bit)
SAE allen wrench set
7/16 wrench
Pliers
Wire cutters/strippers/crimpers
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
1.) Loosen setscrew in shaft collar. Assemble feed
screw by sliding collar all the way up. Tighten set
screw.
2.) Slide thrust bearing onto auger, then white nylon
bushing
3.) Slide flange onto auger, with curved side facing out.

4.) Thread end of nipple with section removed into

flange, flat side of the flange out. Tighten. Be careful
not to deform the nipple. Only apply a wrench on
the short side of the cutout the side to the right of
the cutout in the diagram to the left.
5.) Slide hopper body onto nipple. If using v5 hopper or
newer, put the flat side away from the wooden
support.
6.) Thread coupling onto nipple.

7.) Slide auger into pipe nipple assembly. Check that

auger can be rotated freely by hand.
8.) Lay out 4 main bolts, put a washer on each.
9.) Slide bolts through the flange not next to the wood,
then put a white nylon spacer on each bolt, then
slide through the wooden support next flange.
10.) Put a washer and nut on each bolt. Tighten by hand.
Be sure to not crush the white nylon spacers.
11.) Place the #8 washer onto the motor shaft. This
forms the key for the motor/auger coupling. It may
help to secure with a layer of masking tape.
12.) Slide the hex socket onto the motor shaft.
13.) Attach motor to wood using provided bolts.

Note: View shown is exploded the socket and washer slide

onto the shaft.
14.) Install heating band on coupling.
15.) Thread brass plug into coupling.
16.) Wrap hotend with provided insulation. Provided
insulation is a bit intentionally undersized to
provide a tight wrapping. Form it to the shape of the
heaterband by squeezing it around the
heater/coupling. Secure with sticky section of paper
wrapping. Insulation not shown.

17.) Mark the base with the outline of the motor mount.
18.) Predrill holes in the base (1/16 for all predrilling),
two for the motor mount.
19.) Partially screw in black screws from underside. Use
them to mark holes in the motor mount.
20.) Predrill motor mount, finish installing the screws
from underside.
21.) Attach the two white angle brackets to the bottom of
the main support using shorter silver screws.
22.) Line up main support on the base, slide feedscrew
into coupling, ensuring thrust bearing is
compressed, then attach white angle brackets to
base.
23.) Ensure supports are vertical and motor shaft/auger
alignment is still good.
24.) Install two black screws through the base into the
center support, as you did for the motor mount.

25.) Using 2 silver screws, attach fan to filament guide

block.
26.) Build filament guide: bolt, then washer, copper,
washer, and nut.
27.) Using 1 zip tie, attach filament guide to filament
guide block.
28.) Using 1 black screw, attach block to base, with top of
copper pipe 1.25-1.4 from nozzle.

RTA kit > RTR extruder (electrical) (ET: 20 mins)

1.) Look at figure 1. Use the appropriate diagram for the controller that was included in your kit.
2.) Cut the 12v cable coming out of the power supply approximately 12 inches away from the
power supply. The 12v cable is the one that does not plug into the wall.
3.) Connect as shown in wiring diagram. Use the extra piece of wire from Step 2 to connect the
motor, as well as the jumper providing power to the second switch and the jumper from
terminal 1 to 4 on the controller. In the diagram, +12v is the red wire coming out of the
power supply, GND is the black wire. Use the included crimps for the switches. The motor
terminal with the red dot is actually GND (black wire). The motor should turn clockwise as
viewed from the hotend.
4.) Connect the thermocouple to the controller by sliding it under the screws. Observe polarity. If
using the enclosure, you may need to bend the terminals of the thermocouple so the yellow
thermocouple connector does not interfere with the enclosure. Insert thermocouple in brass
plug. Secure with kapton tape, metal zip tie, or pipe clamp (not included)
5.) Inspect all wiring for stray strands, loose connections, etc. If you are uncertain, upload
pictures, or have a knowledgeable friend check it out!
6.) Plug the Filastruder into an outlet. Check that one of the switches turns on the heater, and the
other turns on the motor/fan. Turn both switches off, proceed to operation instructions.

Operation Instructions:

1.) Place assembly on a table, with filament guide 3 from edge of table (some users have had
better luck with different positions. 3 is not absolute truth)
2.) Set PID to 180 degC. Wait 15 minutes.
3.) Turn on motor. Frame should not flex significantly, and nipple should not turn. If it does,
plastic is still solid inside body. Wait longer for it to heat up before running motor.
4.) Using a tool so you dont burn yourself, guide filament over nozzle and to edge of table.
5.) Let Filastruder run for 6-8 hours to ensure contaminates are flushed out. These are the bits
of metal from the cutting/grinding/filing that stuck to the inside of the barrel.
6.) After 8 hours, filament should be free of contaminates and can be used. Be sure to inspect a
reasonable length of filament for contaminants before using in a printer. It make take more
than 8 hours to flush out all the contaminants using clear ABS can make it easier to be sure.
7.) Enjoy cheap filament!

Included Parts - Mechanical:

Auger
8 inch pipe nipple
Brass plug/nozzle
Pipe Coupling
Shaft Collar
Thrust bearing
hex socket, with shaft key (#8 washer)
2 flanges
4 -20 3 bolts
5 hex nuts
10 washers
M5-.80x40 motor mount bolts
2 wood supports
Filament guide parts (bolt, copper pipe, wood block)
Insulation
4 Regular zip ties
4 nylon bushings (4 white, 1 white)
13 wood screws (5 black, 4 long #6 silver, 4 short #8 silver)
2 white angle brackers
Included Parts - Electrical:
PID controller
Thermocouple
12v gearmotor
60mm fan, 12v
4 female spade terminals
2 switches
Heater
12v power supply

User provided parts:

One 1x6x22 piece of wood
Hopper (STL provided by us)
Hopper extender (optional, STL/CAD provided by us)
Electronics enclosure (optional, STL/CAD provided by us)

Specifications:
Extrusion Rate: 6-18 inches/minute (1.5-5 lbs/day)
Extrusion Temperature: tested with 170-210C (others may be possible)
Size: 22x6x6
Noise: 50dBA @ 3ft
Power: 110-240VAC,50/60Hz, 75watts peak, 50 watts average

Lessons learned so far:

Motor voltage changes pressure, and thus extrusion rate and diameter. Try to run at
constant 12 volts. That is what the motor is rated for.
Temperature changes viscosity, and thus extrusion rate and diameter. This is one way of
dialing in filament diameter. 10degC is about 0.10mm. That also means that the tighter the
PID holds temperature, the better. Autotuning the PID is a good idea. Simply press and hold
the AT button until the green AT light illuminated. Should take 5 seconds to get into AT
mode, and ~5 minutes to do the autotuning.

Another way of changing filament diameter is raising/lowering the guide. Moving the guide
further from nozzle increases the chances of the filament tangling/blobbing, be careful doing
this. (though by no means is 1.25 the perfect distance)
As you run out of pellets in the hopper, the extruded filament will exhibit a wave-like
pattern. This means the extruder body is nearly empty.
Keep the pellets and hopper clean, and covered when not in use. Garbage in, garbage out! If
you let foreign material into the hopper, it will become part of your filament!
Every 100 hours or so, inspect the thrust bearing and for signs of wear.
Exercise caution. Though Ive tried to cover all the bases in terms of material selection, etc.,
the truth is were pressurizing hot, molten plastic. Eye protection is a good idea, and you
should maintain safe distances when the motor is running. (dont put your eyeball up to the
nozzle with it running!) It should still be plugged into a GFI outlet ideally, and never used
near water or flammable products. Always use in a well-ventilated area, and use smoke
detectors. NEVER LEAVE UNATTENDED.

Figure 1a. Wiring Diagram Mypin PID controllers

Figure 1b. Wiring Diagram Sestos PID controllers

Figure 2. Section view of nozzle.

Figure 3. Filament guide info