Shoes and Techniques Hans - April - 2014

1
I have written this book in memory

Of my
Great-Grandfather, Grandfather, and my Father,
I am the last one in our Family who was able to
design and teach shoes in many different countries.
My Intention with this book is to explain our Familys
More than 100 years
Of experience.
To those, like our family, who love high quality shoes.
Hans van der Elzen
Title: All about shoes and techniques

Edition: Shoes and Hans
2013 April.
Waalwijk, The Netherlands
ISBN/EAN 978-90-820670-0-2
NUR-Code: 100
Editor: Elzen, Hans van der
Author: Elzen, Hans van der

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any
form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other-wise, without the prior written permission from the author.
Hans van der Elzen
About Us
When I finished this training,

the school asked me to
become a teacher, which I
accepted.
Hans van der Elzen

born in Holland
My family (from my fathers side)
were shoe designers and shoe
manufacturers in Holland.
It started with my Great-Grandfather who won several Gold medals
as the best shoe designer from
Holland.
My Grand Parents
As teacher I wrote several books
about shoes. You can find them
at the Royal Library, The Hague,
Netherlands
Hans van der Elzen. S-Hertogenbosch, The Netherlands.
CIP-Information, Royal Library,
The Hague Author Elzen,Hans v.d.
ISBN 90-71281-01-9 / 90-7128102-7 / 90-71281-03-5 SISO 686.5
UDC 685.3
My Great-Grand Parents
The experience my great-grandfather had built up has been a family

secret for making high quality
and comfortable shoes. Due to
his experience, my family has
become well known as
shoemakers in Holland.
I wanted to know more about
the technical part of shoes and
went to study orthopedic shoes.
Hans van der Elzen
As I am the last one in our family

who practices making high quality
shoes I am very honored to teach
my skills to other people who love
the shoes the same way I do.
My new book was written using the

experience from my last 20 years.
I have worked for severa
brands in many countries: Holland,
Germany, Belgium, France, Italy,
Spain, Portugal, Canada, Macedonia, Tunisia, India, Taiwan, and
China.
My Parents
(See my website:)
www.shoesandhans.com
and
www.shoesandhans.eu
About Us
In Memory of my Great-Grand Father

who died at 8 March 1914
I am the last one from our family who works in shoes
and therefore I have written my newest book for
those who are interested in designing, making, and
loving shoes like I do. I hope that it will help in the
continual development of good fitting and high
quality shoe making.
J.W.A.M. van der Elzen
Newspaper Obituary from
The Netherlands
Zijn werken werden meermalen met goud bekroond.

Hij fungeerde meermalen als juylid.
Hij was in zijn tijd de beste leraar in t schoenvak
onderwijs; gedurende 30 jaren was hij daarin onvermoeid werkzaam en door hem zijn vele beste
krachten voor de schoenfabrieken gevormd, daar de
meeste en beste coupeurs en meesterknechts hun
opleiding van hem genoten.
Hij heeft zeer veel gedaan tot verheffing der shoenindustrie. Vele zullen dankbaar zijne nagedachtenis
eeren.
English text
Baardwijk
+ J.v.d. Elzen +
One writes:
March 8 J.L. died at age 60 years at Baardwijk, Mr.
J.v.d. Elzen,
He was one of the best, if not the best, and most
famous shoe designer.
His work was frequently rewarded with gold.
He served several times as member of the jury.
For easier reading I have rewritten the text in Dutch:

Baardwijk
+ J.v.d. Elzen +
He was in his time the best shoe teacher for 30

years, he worked tirelessly, and through his efforts
he formed many good masters for the shoe factories, the most and best model makers, and foremen
received their training from him.
He has done a lot for the elevation of the shoe industry. Many will be grateful and honor his memory.
Men schrijft ons:

8 Maart J.L. overleed in de ouderdom van 60 jaren
te Baardwijk de heer J.v.d. Elzen; hij was een der
beste, zoo niet de beste en meest bekende coupeur
schoenmaker.
Hans van der Elzen
Table of Contents
Chapter 1: Length measurements
Page 5
Chapter 2: Girth measurements
Page 13
Chapter 3: Insole, last construction
Page 25
Chapter 4: Feet blue prints
Page 35
Chapter 5: Last construction
Page 39
Chapter 6: Proportions
Page 51
Chapter 7: Shoe types and construction
Page 55
Chapter 8: Paper patterns/shoe backpart heights
Page 69
Chapter 9: Fish-bone, last copy
Page 77
Chapter 10: Adhesive paper, last copy
Page 85
Chapter 11: Wet paper, last copy
Page 89
Chapter 12: Construction help lines for paper patterns
Page 93
Chapter 13: Blucher Derby low cut shoe
Page 99
Chapter 14: Balmoral low cut shoe
Page 121
Chapter 15: Womens pump shoe
Page 135
Chapter 16: Stitch-down low cut shoe
Page 147
Chapter 17: Strobel running shoe
Page 151
Chapter 18: Standard Blucher boot with and without Water tongue
Page 157
Chapter 19: Moccasin shoe
Page 169
Chapter 20: T-Band low cut shoe
Page 175
Chapter 21: Childrens high boot
Page 177
Chapter 22: Cutting edges for uppers
Page 181
Chapter 23: Pattern grading
Page 185
Chapter 24: Shoe design into a pattern with Photoshop
Page 197
Chapter 25: Designs made with Photoshop
Page 207
Hans van der Elzen
Length Measurements
CHAPTER 1: LENGTH MEASUREMENTS
Hans van der Elzen
Length measurements
Good to know why good fitting shoes

are so important!
3 out of 4 Americans experience serious

foot problems in their lifetime.
Your feet mirror your general health.
The foot contains 28 bones, 33 joints, 107 ligaments
and 19 muscles.
1/4 of all the bones in the human body are down in
your feet. When these bones are out of alignment,
so is the rest of the body.
Only a small percentage of the population is born
with foot problems.
Its neglect and a lack of awareness of proper
care - including ill fitting shoes - that brings on
problems.
Women have about four times as many foot problems as men. High heels are partly to blame.
Walking is the best exercise for your feet. It also
contributes to your general health by improving circulation, contributing to weight control, and promoting all-around well being.
Conditions such as arthritis, diabetes, nerve and circulatory disorders can show their initial symptoms in
the feet - so foot ailments can be your first sign of
more serious medical problems.
Arthritis is the number one cause of disability in
America. It limits everyday dressing, climbing stairs,
Hans van der Elzen
getting in and out of bed or walking - for about 7

million Americans.
About 60-70% of people with diabetes have mild to
severe forms of diabetic nerve damage, which in
severe forms can lead to lower limb amputations.
Approximately 56,000 people a year lose their foot
or leg to diabetes.
There are 250,000 sweat glands in a pair of feet.
Sweat glands in the feet excrete as much as a halfpint of moisture a day.
Walking barefoot can cause plantar warts. The virus
enters through a cut.
The two feet may be different sizes. Buy shoes for
the larger one.
About 5% of Americans have toenail problems in a
given year.
The average person takes 8,000 to 10,000 steps a
day, which adds up to about 115,000 miles over a
lifetime. Thats enough to go around the circumference of the earth four times.
Length measurements
Shocking Foot Facts

Did you know that an estimated 80% of children
in the UK are wearing the wrong shoe size, which
may cause them long-term damage?
In addition, more than 75% of UK adults suffer
from foot problems 70% of those can be attributed to ill-fitting shoes worn in childhood. 37% would
exposing themselves to serious foot problems that

could lead to amputation, according to research in
the International Journal of Clinical Practice.
Research from the Glasgow Caledonian University.
YouGov survey for the Society of Chiropodists and
Podiatrists (SCP).
wear uncomfortable shoes as long as they were

fashionable and 17% of men admit to buying shoes
the wrong size.
Many are wearing the wrong sized shoes on a
daily basis without even knowing it.
A research study, led by Norman Espinosa, M.D.,
an orthopaedic surgeon at the University of Zurich Balgrist, that was presented to the American
Association of Orthopaedic Surgeons, found that
more than 90% of both outdoor and indoor shoes/
For the mentioned reasons it is very important to

explain how to make good fitting shoes, still too
many people get foot problems during their life.
slippers worn by the children in their study, were

too small and that the shoe sizes given by the
manufacturers almost never matched with the true
sizes measured by the Research Group.
The British shoe sizing system was created by Edward II in 1324 and that same system is still used
today to manufacture footwear in the UK.
Amazingly, theres no legal requirement for manufacturers to stick to it!
More than six out of ten people with diabetes are
walking around in the wrong-sized shoes,
Hans van der Elzen
Length measurements
International Shoe Size Chart Notes
American Womens shoe sizes are the same

as American Mens shoe sizes plus 1 .
British shoe sizes plus 1 are the same as American Mens shoe sizes
Europe uses a system that came from the

French called Paris Points.
Canadian shoe sizes are equivalent (identical) to American shoe sizes for both Adult and
Childrens.
Mexican shoe sizes plus 1 are the same as

American Mens shoe sizes.
Japanese shoes sizes are American Mens

shoe sizes plus 18. (Some companies add 19).
Australian and New Zealand use the same

sizes as the U.K. for Mens, Boys and Girls.
Korea measure shoe sizes in Millimeters

(mm.).
There are two scales used in the U.S. The standard of Footwear Industries of America, (FIA)
scale and
the common scales. The common scale is more widely used. The scales are
about sizes different.
Although different kinds of shoes prefer different
measurements.
Mondo point shoe size system.
Many years of research and development have led

to the metric Mondo point sizing system.
It should be noted that Mondo point is an internationally standardized measure.
Mondo point is used foremost by NATO and other
military organizations.
Hans van der Elzen
Mondo point defines the size of a shoe from foot

measurements designed to ensure that the shoe
will fit.
These measurements are the length of the foot
and the width of the foot.
If a persons length of the foot is 260 mm and the
width of the foot is 90 mm, then the shoe size most
appropriate in Mondo point is 260/90.
All shoes marked with 260/90 should fit this
persons foot, without having to try them on!
This is why NATO uses the Mondo point system.
They simply measure the recruits feet and then
order the boots and shoes.
Manufacturers of protective work footwear, for
example footwear for fire-men or construction workers, have started to use Mondo point.
These shoe size notes are made by many different
shoe companies in the world and dont tell us how
to get good fitting shoes.
Length measurements
Unfortunately, there is not

one standard
shoe size.
To know what are good fitting shoes starts with what
is a shoe size and there correct measurements in
length and wide
A shoe size is an alphanumerical indication of the
fitting size of a shoe for a person.
Often it just consists of a number indicating the
length because many shoemakers only provide a
standard for economic reasons.
There are several different shoe-size systems that
are used worldwide. These systems differ in what
they measure, what unit of measurement they use,
and where the size 0 (or 1) is positioned.
Only a few systems also take the width of the feet
into account.
Some regions use different shoe-size systems for
different types of shoes (e.g., men's, women's,
children's, sport, or safety shoes).
The most common shoe sizes we are still using
today. We use not only the length, but also the
wide, girth, instep, and ankle measurements.
We need to know these measurements for making good fitting and comfortable shoes.
Traditional USA Woman sizes are 1 size different than traditional Mens sizes.
This question has intrigued scientists and thinkers
since the birth of that shoe size discrepancy.
The whole thing started in 1937 when John and
Sarah Banks, a couple from California went into a
shoe store to buy shoes.
John's feet were obviously bigger than Sarah's but
they both had well proportionate body types.
When they bought the shoes, Sarah, who actually
was a very active feminist, noticed that the shoe
size of her husband was bigger than from her and
she felt it was unfair since both of them had normal
feet sizes.
Sarah eventually started protests and demanded a
same shoe size for feet of same proportion.
It worked, and that is why Woman's shoe sizes are
different than Men's.
I do not know if this is a true story but it is an explanation and makes the sizes of the shoes even
more complex.
The length for:

American sizes: 1 size is 8.46 mm. and increase
with 8.46 mm/ size is 4, 23 mm.
English sizes: 1 size is 8.46 mm. and increase
with 8.46 mm / size is 4, 23 mm.
France sizes: 1 size is 6.66 mm. and increase
with 6.66 mm./not sizes.
Mondopoint sizes: 1 size is 10 mm / and increase
with 10 mm/ size is 5 mm.
The traditional USA size system is similar to
English sizes but start counting at one rather than
zero, so equivalent sizes are one greater.
(This is similar to the way that floors in buildings
are numbered from one rather from zero (ground)
in these regions).
Hans van der Elzen
10
Length measurements
Below you will see a measuring strap, which is what many shoemakers still use today.
One side has centimeters and the other side has English and French sizes.
You can compare the centimeters with English and French sizes (See Fig.1).
English childrens sizes start at 101.6 mm (=12 x 8,466 mm) until size 13 .
English adults sizes starts at 211.65 mm (= 25 x 8,466 mm).
English and USA shoes also come in half sizes.
French shoe sizes do not come in half sizes and start at 0 mm.
(Fig.1)
This comparative size chart gives you a idea from foot, shoe and last length (See Fig.2).
(Fig.2)
Hans van der Elzen
Length measurements
11
Knowing the length of different sizes is not enough.

We need to know where to start to measure.
We must measure the length of a foot when our
body rests on both of our feet.
For example, we start with a foot length of 22.5
cm / 225 mm (see Fig.3).
We need to add an extra 15 mm to our foot length
for walking movement inside our shoes
(see Fig. 4). We measure 225 mm plus 15 mm for
a total of 240 mm.
Our shoes should measure a total of 240 mm on
the inside.
(Fig.3)
See also the English sizes on the measure strap
and compare them with France sizes.(See Fig.5)
We count 240 mm less 101 mm (in English we start
sizes after 101 mm) = 139 mm.
139 mm divided by 8, 46 mm = 16, 43 English
sizes.
When we have 16, 43 English sizes we deduct the
first 13 English Childrens sizes
In our example we have than 16, 43 English
sizes min 13 English Childrens sizes =
3, 43 English Adult sizes. In this case your English
shoe size is almost 3 .
This means that in USA sizes, your shoe size
is 4 for men and for size 6 for women.
(Fig.4)
In our example the total is 240 mm, 1 France size is 6.66 mm.
240 mm divided by 6.66 mm is 36; our shoe is France size 36.
(Fig.5)
Hans van der Elzen
12
Length measurements
Mainly we have explained the France/European (Continental) sizes.

At this table find European and USA sizes for you to compare.
USA sizes are based on Inches and

Continental sizes are based on millimeters
or centimeters.
Convert to millimeters: multiply
Inches x 25, 4 Convert Inches:
multiply millimeters x .03937
EU
35
36
37
In the USA size system, the foot length is

shown as a number and the foot width as a
letter.
The letter D indicates medium width for
each size.
C is narrower and E is wider than D.
38
In the European size system the foot

length is also shown as a number and
the foot width can be a number as well a
letter.
However more and more the European
width is using also the letter.
The letter M indicates medium width
for each size. S is narrower and W is
wider than M.
41
42
You can find many different shoe size

charts on the Internet but do you know if
they are correct?
47
Always measure your feets by yourself

and use the knowledge you have
learned for determent your size.
Hans van der Elzen
39
40
43
44
45
46
48
49
50
UK
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
6.5
7
7.5
8
8.5
9
9.5
10
10.5
11
11.5
12
12.5
13
14
15
US
Men
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
6.5
7
7.5
8
8.5
9
9.5
10
10.5
11
11.5
12
12.5
13
13.5
14
15
16
US
Woman
5.5
6
6.5
7
7.5
8
8.5
9
9.5
10
10.5
11
11.5
12
12.5
13
Girth measurements
13
CHAPTER 2: GIRTH MEASUREMENTS
Hans van der Elzen
14
Girth measurements
The foot grows in the length more rapidly than in the width. The length
of the foot does not automatically give a standard foot width.
medically justified.
Inquiries regarding the correct measurements for outlines of last insoles can be found in a table for foot
length and girth measurements.
Independent of the length, we can have small, wide,

fleshy or skinny feet.
Because of these large differences in feet, we can account for the girth measurements by a table where we
can find the measurements for feet. We do not have
standard girth measures.
If you measure the individual foot at the girth part (ball

part) you can then use this measurement with a girth
table. This girth measurement becomes an amplitude
figure or amplitude character.
According to several scientists who have done much

research in this area, among whom is Professor
Schede, the free movement of the toes is a key consideration for fighting foot complaints and disease.
With the girth measurement, we can also

calculate the instep and the ankle
measurement.
The muscles of the toes belong to the most important

support elements which allow the foot to bend. For
this reason, the basic outline of the sole must be
The width:
The instep is 10 mm larger than the girth measure

whereas the ankle is 10 mm smaller than the girth
measurement.
Measure the girth with the measure strap around

the foot at the widest points of your feet Fig.3.
The sum of the 2 measurements, divided by

two gives the feet girth.
Measure from the ball to the widest point of your feet

(strap A) and then again from the widest point from
your feet to your small toe (strap B).
The length from strap A = 230 mm, length from strap

B = 246 mm = A + B = 476 mm / 2 = 238 mm.
(Fig.2)
(Fig.1)
Fig.1, show an blue print from the feet and
Fig.2 and Fig.3 show how and where to measure the
feet for getting the correct width measurement of the
Hans van der Elzen
(Fig.3)
feet. When we measure our feet then we need to
add 8 mm EXTRA. Because the shoe last at the
sole surface forms an angle with the insole, see Fig.4.
Girth measurements
15
This angle with the insole needs extra

space.
For Woman and Mens shoe last we add
8 mm extra. For Childern shoe last we
add 6 mm extra.
In our example for the girth we have
mea-sure 238 mm + 8 mm extra = 246
mm.
The correct girth measurement on the
shoe last = 246 mm.
(Fig.4)
PLEASE TAKE NOTE THAT THE GIRTH MEASUREMENTS IN THE TABLES ARE MEASURES AROUND THE
FOOT, NOT THE WIDTH OF THE FOOT AS MAINLY EXPLAINED WITH WIDTH TABLES IN THE USA SIzING
SYSTEM.
The Girth measure is the most important part of

the last. The medial and lateral part from the lasts is
2 to 3 mm wider than the insole of the last (See
Fig.5).
The total last width is 5 to 6 mm wider than the
insole width of the last. The last insole width is 38%.
For the last width we must take 40% of the Girth

measure. It is important that the ball part of the last,
inside and outside ball part, we make it not too flat.
If we do so the foot will not get enough space, because the instep will become too small.
STRONGLY RECOMMENDED;
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE PERCENTAGE OF THE GIRTH MEASURE
(BALL MEASURE) AS THIS WILL
INFLUENCE THE FIT OF THE SHOE.
(Fig.5)
Hans van der Elzen
16
Girth measurements
How to work and use girth measurements.

Last factories have made girth measurements tables
Shoe factories are using these tables and order there the last they need for shoe productions.
Often the Customers demand the shoe manufacture the length and width sizes they need to buy.
Depending on the Countries for which the shoes will be produced, the girth tables will be different.
Girth table from Germany in mm

English sizes
Letter/number
France
Sizes
S/Narrow
F/Medium
H/Wide
11
46.5
247.0
252.0
257.0
262.0
267.0
272.0
11
45.5
244.0
249.0
254.0
259.0
264.0
269.0
10
45
240.0
245.0
250.0
255.0
260.0
265.0
10
44.5
237.0
242.0
247.0
252.0
257.0
262.0
44
234.0
239.0
244.0
249.0
254.0
259.0
43
231.0
236.0
241.0
246.0
251.0
256.0
42.5
228.0
233.0
238.0
243.0
248.0
253.0
42
225.0
230.0
235.0
240.0
245.0
250.0
41
221.0
226.0
231.0
236.0
241.0
246.0
40.5
218.0
223.0
228.0
233.0
238.0
243.0
40
215.0
220.0
225.0
230.0
235.0
240.0
39.5
212.0
217.0
222.0
227.0
232.0
237.0
Above you have seen the girth table in English sizes for men and woman where we explain that on these
tables the number F or 6 are the medium girth measurements.
On the next pages we will show the girth tables for kids and the American sizing system.
PERCENTAGE OF THE GIRTH MEASURE

Research tells us that a fixed standard for the length
of the girth line, (plus minus 38% of the Girth
mea-surement) should be used. The percentage of
the Girth measure that is a measure, stipulates the
width of the insole of the last.
From these standards, last factories construct their
lasts and insoles for their last models.
On Customer request, they can change the fixed percentage.
Hans van der Elzen
The percentage of the ball measure lies generally is

below 38%, therefore we get a higher content in the
girth part of the shoe.
Certainly we must consider that with supplements in
the shoes, increased contents will be required to keep
a good fit.
Girth measurements
17
Girth measurements for Boys and Girls in France Sizes

Fr.Sizes
3
S/Narrow
6
M/Medium
8
W/Wide
35
182.5
187.5
192.5
197.5
202.5
207.5
212.5
217.5
34
178.5
183.5
188.5
193.5
198.5
203.5
208.5
213.5
33
175.0
180.0
185.0
190.0
195.0
200.0
205.0
210.0
32
171.0
176.0
181.0
186.0
191.0
196.0
201.0
206.0
31
167.5
172.5
177.5
182.5
187.5
192.5
197.5
202.5
30
163.5
168.5
173.5
178.5
183.5
188.5
193.5
198.5
29
160.0
165.0
170.0
175.0
180.0
185.0
190.0
195.0
28
156.0
161.0
166.0
171.0
176.0
181.0
186.0
191.0
27
152.0
157.0
162.0
167.0
172.0
177.0
182.0
187.0
26
148.0
153.0
158.0
163.0
168.0
173.0
178.0
183.0
25
144.0
149.0
154.0
159.0
164.0
169.0
174.0
179.0
24
140.0
145.0
150.0
155.0
160.0
165.0
170.0
175.0
23
136.5
141.5
146.5
151.5
156.5
161.5
166.5
171.5
22
132.5
137.5
142.5
147.5
152.5
157.5
162.5
167.5
21
129.0
134.0
139.0
144.0
149.0
154.0
159.0
164.0
20
125.0
130.0
135.0
140.0
145.0
150.0
155.0
160.0
19
121.0
126.0
131.0
136.0
141.0
146.0
151.0
156.0
18
117.0
122.0
127.0
132.0
137.0
142.0
147.0
152.0
Hans van der Elzen
18
Girth measurements
Supplements take space; the contents of the Girth are reduced by it.
When we need to add inside of the shoe a supplement (= insole inlay support) we must calculate a
higher content for the Girth measure otherwise the
shoe will fit too tightly.
For example: total Girth measure = X, thickness of
insole inlay support = 4 mm.
Here we must calculate for the total Girth contents;

total Girth measure plus 4 mm + 4 mm
is 8 mm extra. (See Fig.6)
By a thickness of 6 mm for the insole inlay support we
must calculate; total Girth measure plus 6 mm + 6 mm
is 12 mm extra.
(Fig.6)
THE LENGTH OF THE GIRTH (BALL LINE)

When we are designing the insole for the last construction, the length of the girth/ ball line is very important for
the width and the fit of the shoe.
Sometimes we think that when the last is wide enough that the shoe will fit better. This is, however, not a good
rule. The ball measure on the ball contents does not give us sufficient information.
For example: we take a Girth (ball measure) from 24 cm out line
(Fig.7)
Length 11 cm, Width 1 cm

The outline is 24 cm (11+1+11+1)
The contents is 11 cm2
In fig. 7: 11cm sole and 13 cm upper leather,

In fig. 8: 6 cm sole and 18 cm upper leather.
Hans van der Elzen
(Fig.8)
Length 6 cm. Width 6 cm.

The outline is 24 cm (6+6+6+6)
The contents is 36 cm2
Girth measurements
From both figures it becomes clear that as less difference exists in cm between the length and width, how
large the surface is, with the same outline measure.
When we draw a ball line longer (=larger) from the
insole of the last construction then the contents of the
ball part will become smaller. As a result, the toes get
less freedom to move.
19
In proportional comparison we have seen at the

out-line of the girth/ball section at the same time
more stiff sole
leather and less smooth upper leather.
In proportional comparison we have seen at the outline of the girth/ball section at the same time less stiffly sole leather and more smooth upper leather.
When we draw the ball line narrower (=shorter) in the

insole of the last construction, then the contents of
the ball will become larger. This is how we get less
pressure at the big and small toe.
Therefore, particular pressure points can arise on the
large and small toe. (See Fig.9 and 10).
(Fig.9)
(Fig.10)
The next table concerns USA size system for girth width.
(These measurements are the width of the feet)
From point 1 to point 2
USA size system for width. measurements are made in Inches.
is feet length.
AAA AA
A
B
C
D
E
EE
EEE
3A
2A
2E
3E
From point 3 to point 4

is feet width.
Medium width for: Men,s = D
Woman = B
Bigger width for: Men,s = EE
Woman = D
Extra width for: Men,s = EEEE
Woman = EE
The length of each USA shoe size increase or decrease with 1/3 Inch ( 8.46 mm).
The width of each USA shoe size increase or decrease with 3/16 Inch ( 4.76 mm).
Hans van der Elzen
20
Girth measurements
These are USA sizing system Girth tables for width measurements.
These measurements are shown the width of the foot and not like the European tables who
are mea-surements all around the foot!
US Woman Sizes
Narrow
Average
Wide
X-Wide
2.81
3.19
3.56
3.94
5.5
2.88
3.25
3.63
2.94
3.31
3.69
4.06
6.5
3.38
3.75
4.13
3.06
3.44
3.81
4.19
7.5
3.13
3.5
3.88
4.25
3.19
3.56
3.94
4.31
8.5
3.25
3.63
4.38
3.31
3.69
4.06
4.44
9.5
3.38
3.75
4.13
4.5
10
3.44
3.81
4.19
4.56
10.5
3.5
3.88
4.25
4.63
11
3.56
3.94
4.31
4.69
11.5
3.63
4.38
4.75
12
3.69
4.06
4.44
4.81
12.5
3.75
4.13
4.5
4.88
13
3.81
4.19
4.56
4.94
US Mens Sizes
C/Narrow
D/Medium
E/Wide
3.3"
3.5"
3.7"
6.5
3.3"
3.6"
3.8"
3.4"
3.6"
3.8"
7.5
3.4"
3.7"
3.9"
3.5"
3.8"
3.9"
8.5
3.6"
3.8"
4.0"
3.6"
3.9"
4.1"
9.5
3.7"
3.9"
4.1"
10
3.8"
4.0"
4.2"
10.5
3.8"
4.1"
4.3"
11
3.9"
4.1"
4.3"
11.5
3.9"
4.2"
4.4"
12
4.0"
4.3"
4.4"
12.5
4.1"
4.3"
4.5"
13
4.1"
4.4"
4.6"
13.5
4.2"
4.4"
4.8"
14
4.2
4.5"
4.9"
Hans van der Elzen
Girth measurements
21
These pictures explain where to find the girth points and other importand points on the
shoe last.
By using a measuring tape we link A
and B.
Point A lies
approximately 3 cm
above the lower
back part of the last.
Point B, lies in the
middle of the lower
front part of the last.
(See Fig. 14)
Fig.16)
Point B is the nose top line of the last.
The number of cm. divided by 2 we put this part in
90 degrees up of from measure tape to the middle
of the last.
Point D is the Instep point. (See Fig. 16)
Fig.14)
Fig.15)
By using a measuring tape we link A and B.
The total length in cm is then visible.
We calculated 1/3 part of the total length in cm.
Using the measure tape we put this 1/3 part in 90
degrees up to the middle line of the last.
This point we call point C.
Fig.17)
Point E, is the last girth point, this girth point you will
find on a new last (See Fig. 17)
Point C is the Girth point. (See Fig. 15)
Hans van der Elzen
22
Girth measurements
Fig.18 shows us where we need to measure the Girt; point C E.

The instep point we measure through point D and the lowest point of
the insole.
REMINDER;
C E is Girth measure; for example width 6 by English size 7 is 233

mm. (See Continental table for Mens and Womans)
D is Instep measure and is 10 mm larger than the girth measure;
is 243 mm.
Ankle measure is 10 mm shorter than the girth measure; is 223 mm.
Fig.18)
Fig.19 The ankle point we measure on a combi last (=

last used for low cut shoes and boots) or boot last as we
need to use the ankle measure for boots.
Fig.19)
Point F is generally indicated by

the last factory and here you f nd
as well the girth length line that
will be explained later in this book)
(See Fig.20)
Fig.20)
Hans van der Elzen
Girth measurements
23
There are many different tables for Sizes and Girth measurements.
This table is from an USA Sport Shoe Company and used ONLY for Men sizes!
JAPAN
Width
(mm)
Girth
(mm)
Girth
(inch)
89.30
233.36
9 3/16 24.5
90.40
236.54
9 5/16
91.50
239.71
92.60
BRZ
ARG
Fr.sizes
(mm)
EUR
UK
USA
36.5
37
253.08
38
24.5
37
38
259.74
39
5.5
6.5
9 7/16
25
38
39
266.40
40
242.89
9 9/16
25.5
38.5
39.5
269.73
40.5
6.5
7.5
93.70
246.06
9
11/16
26
39
40
273.06
41
94.80
249.24
9
13/16
26.5
40
41
279.72
42
7.5
8.5
95.90
252.41
9
15/16
27
40.5
41.5
283.05
42.5
97.00
255.59
10
1/16
27.5
41
42
286.38
43
8.5
9.5
98.10
258.59
10
3/16
28
42
43
293.04
44
10
99.20
261.94
10
5/16
28.5
42.5
43.5
296.37
44.5
9.5
10.5
100.30
265.11
10
7/16
29
43
44
299.70
45
10
11
101.40
268.29
10
9/16
29.5
44
45
306.36
46
10.5
11.5
102.50
271.46
10
11/16
30
44.5
45.5
309.69
46.5
11
12
103.60
274.54
10
13/16
30.5
45
46
313.02
47
11.5
12.5
104.70
277.81
10
15/16
31
46
47
319.68
48
12
13
106.90
284.16
11
3/16
32
47
48
326.34
49
13
14
*** The widths sizes between the lengths sizes used (USA) are mainly 3/16 of an Inch, is
equal on 4.76 mm. In the EU the widths sizes between the lengths sizes used are 5 mm.
Hans van der Elzen
24
Girth measurements
These two pictures are used by shoe technical institutes for controlling the
length and girth measurements.
Picture shows the measurement device for the shoe length.
Picture show the measurement device for the total girth inside the shoe.
Many years of my own experience and checking a lot of tables from all over the world tell me that when we
think logically, a shoe must fit and be comfortable for our feet no matter if they are athletic, casual, or fashion.
The fact is that the length of our feet, the girth measurements, and freedom for our toes plus the wiggle room
of 15 mm will give us very good fitting and comfortable shoes.
How to measure for making comfortable and good fitting shoes will be explained in the next chapters.
Hans van der Elzen
Last Insole Construction
25
CHAPTER 3: LAST INSOLE CONSTRUCTION
Hans van der Elzen
26
Formulas and calculations for last insole constructions.

Name
Total shoe last length
Points
Description
A-B
Last length in inch
Total girth (ball)

circumference
Wiggle room
B-D
Feet length
A-D
Measure around the

metatarsal (ball of the feet)
Extra room for feet
movement during walking
Feet length in inch
Girth (ball) point
A-C
Degrees of the girth (ball)

length line
E-F
Total length of girth (ball)

line
Medial part length of girth
(ball) line
Lateral part length of girth
(ball) line
E-F
Heel width point
Total length of the heel

width line
K-L
Axis heel line point
Degrees of the heel width

line
Big toe line
Big toe point
Small toe line
Small toe point
K-L
Heel rounding shorten
Hans van der Elzen
E-C
C-F
E-G
G
F-H
P
Shoe size
example
UK size
7
7
7
7
62% from the total shoe last

length A -B
Variable from 80/76 degrees
depended of the population
group. General we use 80
degrees.
38% from total girth (ball)
circumference
1/6 part of total girth (ball)
circumference
Total length of girth (ball)
line less 1/6 part of total girth
(ball) circumference
1/6 part of the feet length
2/3 part from the total length

of girth (bal) line plus 0.08
inch extra
60% from the E-F line
(girth/ball)
90 degrees on axis heel line
M-J
92 degrees on line part E-F
Position point of the big toe
78 degrees on line part E-F
20% from the feet length AD
Shorten 0.08 inch from line
A-B
7
7
Measurement
Calculations
32 x 8.46 = 270.72 mm,
(count 271 mm) =10.67
inch
Using the width table for
medium width 9.17 inch
0.59 inch
10.67 inch less 0.59 =
10.08 inch
62% from 9.17 inch =
5.69 inch
80 degrees
38% from 9.17 inch =

3.48 inch
9.17 inch: 6 = 1.53 inch
3.48 inch less 1.53 inch

= 1.95 inch
10.08 inch : 6 = 1.68

inch
3.48 inch x 2 = 6.96 : 3 =
2.32 inch + 0.08 inch =
2.40 inch
3.48 inch x 60% = 2.09
inch
90 degrees
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
92 degrees
Point G
78 degrees
10.67 inch x 20% = 2.13
inch
Point N
27
(Fig.1)
Hans van der Elzen
28
Calculate the Girth point

(=Ballpoint) (see Fig.2)
Research of Prof.Schede, has shown that
the normal Girth point (=Ballpoint) of the
foot lies on 62% of the foot length (E-C).
Foot length + 15 mm extra length is the
normal last length.
THE REAL FOOT LENGTH IS MEASURED

IF THEY ARE HALF CHARGED
a. The foot has not been charged if the feet do not carry
the body weight.
b. The foot is half charged, as both feet carries body
weight.
c. The whole foot has been charged if only one foot
carries the whole body weight.
Our calculations do not use the ballpoint

excess.
The excess is a special extra length to
be able to make a special last type, such as
Italian, French, or English.
The last length in the construction of Prof.
Schede. It is always the foot length plus 15
mm extra length.
The extra length is necessary because the
foot moves forward in the shoe while walking.
The foot can be static (at standstill) and
becomes dynamical (moves) during walking.
With the research from Aka -64 -system it
become clear that the ball point for boys, girls
and little children lies on 63% of normal last
length.
This occurs because childrens feet are not
yet full-grown.
How to set up the Girth point (= Ballpoint).

Draw a length line A- B, the length of this line
depends on the foot length plus 15mm extra
length.
Calculate 62% of the length A- B, this
calculated measure we set out from point A.
Herewith we know the Girth point from the
last for the insole construction. We call this
point C.
This method we apply for:
Mens last measures in the France sizes, 38
till 48.
Women last measures in the France sizes, 34
till 43.
(Fig.2)
Hans van der Elzen
29
The Degrees of the

Girth line (=Ball line)
(see Fig.3)
The degrees position of the ball line according to
the method of Prof. Schede on the ball point, C
is under an angle of 80 degrees on the length line
A- B.
In the Netherlands the angle is taken smaller
than 80 degrees (76 a 77) which a result that the
inside of the ball line (point E) comes a little more
forwards.
This has to do with the foot type of the Dutch
population.
Length of Girth line E-F

The length of the Girth line is calculated from the
total Girth measure.
For Mens lasts, we take 37 % of the total Girth
measure, for Womens lasts, we take 35 % of
the total Girth measure as a length for the Girth
line (=ball line)
Construction of the Girth line.

Mens last, France sizes, 38 through 48
Ball line C- E is 1/6 part of the total Girth measure, E
is the inside point of the ball line, C is the ballpoint.
Ball line C- F is 1/6 part of the total Girth measure
plus 24% of this 1/6 part, F is the point of the
outside ball line, C is the ball point.
Womens last, France sizes, 34 till 43
Ball line C- E is 1/6 part of the total Girth measure, E
is the inside point of the ball line, C is the ballpoint.
Ball line C -F is 1/6 part of the total Girth measure
plus 12% of this 1/6 part, F is the point of the
outside ball line, C is the ball point.
Heel width point

Heel width point is set up from point A and is 1/6
part of the line A-D
Length A-D is the foot length, which we call point J.
(Fig.3)
Hans van der Elzen
30

Basic construction lines
of the forefoot
(See Fig.4)
The basic lines of the fore foot are based exactly on

the spacing of the toes, it is important that the toes
have sufficient space in the shoe.
We find this point by calculating 1/3 from the ball line

minus 5%.
The total of millimetres, set out from the basic line A1.
Insufficient space in the shoe causes squeeze

points. These produce foot complaints and must be
avoided.
The line part E- G, stands in 92/94 degrees on the
ball line, point G, indicates the large toe.
The line part F- H, stands in 78 degrees on the ball
line, point P, indicates the small toe.
Point P, is 20% of line part A-D and lies on line part
F- H.
The line G- H indicates the spread of the foot.
Axis line for the heel

direction
On 60% of the ball line E- F, we places the point for
the axis line of the heel direction
This point we call point M.
Link point M with point J, by means of a line part
which passes through until the basic line A, This
line part is axis line for the heel direction.
It also gives us the direction of shoe heel.
Heel width line

In 90 degrees on line part M-J, we draw the heel
width line K-L, through heel width point J.
The heel width for Mens last is 2/3 of the ball line
+ 2 mm, for Women last it is 2/3 of the ball line +
1mm.
The line part, K- J is half part of the heel width; J- L
is other half part of the heel width
Heel rounding point

To be able to stipulate the heel rounding line, we
calculate point N, in the extension of line part M-J.
(Fig.4)
Hans van der Elzen
31
To make the lines complete, we draw a line from

point E with point K. (See Fig.5)
Draw the line E- K till the basic line A.
Do it also in this way with the points F- L.
Draw also here the line F L, till the basic line A.
Circle out a line from point J (= heel width point.)
The distance J- L is equal to Y.
Y, is the circle line of the inside heel rounding
Make also a circle line from point N (= heel rounding
point)
The distance N- A, is equal to Z
Z, is the circle of the outside heel rounding line
Draw between both circles the heel

rounding line
(Fig.6)
Fig 6. : The correct drawn Insole of the last

(Fig.5)
Hans van der Elzen
32
When you drawn the insole of a last do not drawn

inside of the red marks. These points are the most
important points for a good and comfortable fitting.
The Yellow marks are for the feet length. Also, do
not draw shorter than these points.
If you need to draw a spits last insole then you may
draw a longer line from the points G and P and
extend this line by point B. (Fig.7)
(Fig.7)
Hans van der Elzen
33
The Illustration below shows you the different

between the last length for normal shoes and the
last length for sandals.
The normal last length is: feet length plus 15 mm
for wiggle space of your foot.
When we measure France size 40 than the last
length is 40 times 6.66 mm is 266.4 mm. in the
last length is the 15 mm wiggle space automatic
included.
This is for normal closed shoes!
When we need the length of a sandal in
France size 40,
than the last length is 40 times 6.66 is 266.4 mm
less 10 mm is 256.4 mm.
Why? a sandal dont need 15 mm for wiggle
space as the sandal in NOT a closed shoe, but
has an open toe, here is 5 mm enough for the
last length.
HOWEVER IF A SANDAL HAS A CLOSED TOE,
THAN YOU MUST USE A LAST AS FOR A
CLOSED SHOE!
(Fig.8)
Hans van der Elzen
34
Hans van der Elzen
Feet blue prints
35
CHAPTER 4: FEET BLUE PRINTS
Hans van der Elzen
36
Feet Blue Prints
How to make correct insole patterns for the shoe last with feet blue prints.
Making the correct shoe last for persons who like to
wear custom made shoes, we have to measure and
making the blue print of the feet.
Besides the length we need also the width,

the ancle measurements of the feet and the leg measurements incase we need to make boots.
We start with the blue print and measure the length and the width of the feet.
We use for this example: feet length 260 mm. and
Girth measurement 238 mm, see Fig.1.
Fig.2, here you can see how to draw the insole for the
feet blue print. Feet length: 260 mm + 15 mm = last
length: 275 mm.
Last length: 275 mm less 5 mm back off line = insole
length: 270 mm (see page 31, fig.6)
(Fig.1.)
Hans van der Elzen
Girth is 238 mm + extra 8 mm = total girth:246 mm

With these informations (the feet length and girth
width) we can start to draw our insole for the shoe
last using the formulas and calculations for last insole
constructions on page 26
(Fig.2.)
Feet blue prints
37
Using the formules and calculations as you find

them on Chapter 3: page 26 you are able to see
and conclude if:
the girth is at the normal point
the heel pressure point is correct
the girth direction is correct (between 76 and 80

degrees)
the direction fo the heel bone is correct
the feet wider or smaller is than 40% from the

total girth measure
the foot abnormality is big relative to a normal

insole
the big and small toe are at the correct point
the proportions from the girth to the longitudinal

axis relative to the foot is correct
See Fig. 3, 4 and 5
(Fig.3.)
(Fig.4.)
(Fig.5.)
Hans van der Elzen
38
Hans van der Elzen
Last Construction 39
CHAPTER 5: LAST CONSTRUCTION
Hans van der Elzen
40
Last Construction
Formulas and calculations for last section construction

Names
Points
Descriptions
Length measure
(A-B)
Last length in mm
Width figure or number
Width figure indicate Girth measure
Total Girth measure
Last length + width number = cm
Extra length
(B-D)
2
15 mm for Women and Mens lasts
Foot sole length
(A-D)
Last length less extra length
Girth points (=Ball point)
(P-C1)
Golden cut
Instep point
(N)
foot length
Girth point (insole)
(C)
38% from last length Womens and Mens
Length of ball line
(C-C )
37% from last length Childrens

1/5 part of total Girth measurement
(C-C1)
90 degrees on line part C-A1
Toe height
(B-B1)
Variable
Heel height
(A-A1)
Variable
Degrees heel bow line
(A -G)
Variable
Toe thickness
D -D )
Variable
Heel width point
(J)
1/6 part of foot length
Heel length point
(K)
part of foot length
Help bow point
(E)
last length A-B
Degrees of help bow point
(A -E)
Variable
Heel line length
(A -F
63% from total Girth measure for Womens and Mens ,

62% for Childrens
Degrees for Heel line
(A1-F)
Variable
Heel bow rounding
(A -H)
Variable
Heel bow rounding point
(H)
3 mm backwards on line part A1-G
Last height
(A1-G)
Standard height of 70 mm
Last insole point
(A )
Same as by last insole construction
(Girth length line)

Degree of ball line
(Girth length line)
Hans van der Elzen
1
1
Last Construction
41
(Fig.9)
Hans van der Elzen
42
Last Construction
Girth points according to the

golden cut. (See Fig.10)
To calculate the Girth measure it is important to
know where we can find these points.
Whether we make lasts ourselves or check others
lasts we must know these points.
Each last factory has a measuring instrument for
girth points (derived from the golden cut principle)
because of the plastic form of the last.
The Girth points are stipulatd as follows:

Connect with a line part, the points A1 B1.
Take the length of A1-D1; this is the foot length.
On the foot length we apply the golden cut principle.
We can find Point R with the help of the golden cut
principle for the last contents construction.
From point R, in 90 degrees on the basis line A1-D1,
draw vertical a line part (=R-S)
Draw this line part until the sole side from the last.
7 mm. above the sole side we find point P.
P is the Girth point at the side of the last.
From P, on the vertical line part P-S, we set up line
part from 22 degrees (these 22 degrees are an
experience number).
The 22 degree line cut the last on the middle Girth
point of the last C1.
The Girth measure we measure with a measuringtape to lay this tape to the nose side, directly against
the Girth points.
Measure the instep point;

This point is fixed by dividing the length of line A1-D1,
in two equal pieces.
The middle we call point M.
On the basis line A1-D1, we draw up a vertical line in
90 degrees from point M. (line part M-N)
Point N is the instep point.
For the instep measurement, we measure with
a measuring-tape. Lay this tape to the nose side,
directly against the instep point.
As we have here only one measuring point, we
place the measuring-tape against the instep point
and further along the narrowest part of the last at
the sole part.
Hans van der Elzen
(Fig.10)
Last Construction
Girth point of the last insole. (See Fig.11)

The girth point is 62% of the last length A-B, for
Womens and Mens lasts.
And 63% of the last length A-B, for Boys, Girls, and
Childrens lasts.
The Girth point is always calculated from the last
length from a normal last.
Length of Girth line.

The length of the Girth line is 1/5 part of the total
Girth measurement.
For the Girth measure we use a formula, last Length,
plus width number and divided by 2.
The outcome we express to centimeters.
43
When the foot stands on a higher heel, then we need

another heel arc.
The heel arc is as follows calculated:

Heel height: 20 mm. = heel arc line in 90 degrees on
line part A1 C;
line part A1 C;
line part A1 C;
line part A1 C;
Also you can use the table 32, from the German
Last factory Behrens.
With the same data of table 32 of Behrens, we see
the Girth measure in millimeters.
Degrees of Girth line.

90 degrees on line part of C-A1, irrespective of the
heel height.
The toe spring.

These are dependent of the system and heel altitude
of the shoe.
If it is a stiff system, then we take more toe spring. If
it is a smooth system, then we take less toe spring.
It is important that the foot is not obstructed during
walking.
As a termination point we considered the

next rule:
Mens last:
with a Heel height from 20 30 mm
= 14 18 mm.
Womens last: with a Heel height from 60 70 mm
= 5 10 mm.
= 10 12 mm.
= 12 14 mm.
Childrens last:
with a Heel height from 10 20
mm. = 12 15 mm.
Degrees of the heel arc line.

Line part, A1 - G stipulates the direction of the heel
arc.
(Fig.11)
Hans van der Elzen
44
Last Construction
Toe-Thickness. (See Fig.12)
See below diagram:
The toe thickness we set out from point D

The toes must have sufficient space.
Heel height: 20 mm, help medial line A1 E, expand

from point A1, = 5 degrees;
The minimum toe thickness measurement for:

Mens last is 24 25 mm.
Women lasts is 22 23 mm.
Kids lasts is 18 22 mm.

The lowest number for these toe thickness is the

absolute minimum!
The space for the toes definitely cannot be thinner
than in the above diagram is indicated.

Heel width point. (We call this point by the

last, heel pressure point)
This point is calculated in the same manner as by
the last insole construction.
For making the sole plastic, this point is used for the
heel contour depth.
If we create this depth, then we must pay attention
to the heel height of the upper.
The heel of the foot then falls deeper in the shoe.
Heel length point.

This is part of the foot length A - D (expand from
point A)
This length point is important for the heel
measurement.
We draw a medial line slightly parallel with the heel
line to get more beautiful course of the heel.
Help medial point.

Line part A1 E, stipulates together with the medial
line A1 C, the direction of this medial line of the
last.
The medial line of the last we draw between these
two lines.
Point E is always the last lengths from line part
A-B.
Degrees of Help medial line.

The degrees arc of this line depends on the heel
height.
On a heel height of 20 mm this line stands in 5
degrees on line part A1 - C, expand from point A1.
With each 10 mm more of the heel height, we
increase the help medial line with 1 degree.
(Fig.12)
Hans van der Elzen
Last Construction
45
Length of heel line. (See Fig.13)
Degrees from de heel line.
For womens and mens lasts the length of the heel

line A1-F is 63% of the girth measure.
For Boys, Girls and Children lasts this length A1 - F
is 62% of the girth measure.
The heel line (A1-F) stands in 42 degrees on line part

(A1-C), with a heel height of 20 mm.
For every 10 mm. higher heel height, the heel line
increases 1 degree.
For the training of shoe techniques we use de

following formula.
See diagram mentioned below:
2/3 (last length + 1/10 last length + width number) =

the total heel size in centimeters.
The outcome, x 3/7 gives then the length of the heel
line in centimeters.
20 mm, heel height, heel line A1-F stands on 42 degrees

on line part A1-C;
30 mm, heel height, heel line A1-F stands on 43 degrees
on line part A1-C; etc, etc.
For example: Size 41, width number 6

Formula: 41 + 4.1 + 6 = 51.1 x 2/3 = 34 cm x 3/7 =
14.5 cm.
63% from the Girth: (41 +6 = 47: 2 = 23.5 cm) See
table 32, Behrens Germany
Size 41, width number 6 = 235 mm x 62% =145 mm
= 14.5 cm.
Attention! 62% is for Boys, Girls and Childrens
lasts.
The heel Girth.
The heel girth we measure on the instep point from
the last.
We lay the measure tape directly against the instep
point of the last to the direction of the nose side and
further around the heel point A1.
Also here we use the formula:
2/3 (last length + 1/10 last length + width number) =
the total heel size in centimeters.
For example: Size 40, width number 6.
Formula: 40 + 4.0 + 6 = 50.0 x 2/3 = 33.3 cm.
145% from the Girth measure: (40 + 6 = 46: 2 = 23.0
cm) see table 32, Behrens Germany.
Size 40, width number 6 = 230 mm x 145% = 333
mm. = 33.3 cm.
The real heel Girth, when the last is made, we
calculate this as follow:
For womens and mens lasts we calculate 150% of
the Girth measure for heel measure.
For boys, girls, and childrens lasts, we calculate
149% of the girth measures the heel measure.
(Fig.13)
Hans van der Elzen
46
Last Construction
Heel arc rounding point (Fig.14).
The last height.
For size 42 the point of the heel arc bow line, lays
30 mm above point A1.
This point we call point H.
By 2 sizes more or - less, the distance between A1
H becomes 1 mm more or -less.
The standard last height is 70 mm.

This standard height of the last is made for working
with different shoe making machines.
However, this last height can be made as the shoe
manufacturer wishes for his machines.
The heel arc contour is one of the most difficult lines

from a last model.
The lasts made for high booths this line lays on
point G further behind, to get thereby a nicer shape
of the upper.
The flank sides of the last are thereby very important.
When we make this flank sides to thin than we must
make the heel arc bow straighter.
If we dont do this than the heel arc bow will damage/
cut the heel of the foot.
(Fig.14)
Hans van der Elzen
Last Construction
47
REMARKS:
As we can see there are many points we need to consider to make the correct fitting lasts.
The experience and the know how for making lasts is very important.
The correct data will give you a good direction for making and controlling a last.
We are allowed to change some points as long as we know how to compensate this.
It must be clear that the type of lasts depends of the type of shoes we want to make.
Professional skill is therefore needed.
When we work with the standard measures for the

lasts, we can see that the foot fits in the correct
position.
It is very important that the Girth point is placed as we
have explained before.
When the foot carries the body weight the foot will find,
due to the pressure of the body weight, automatically
the best fitting places created by the last (Fig.15).
(Fig.15)
With this picture you can see what happens when the
standard measures are not respected!
This mistake you can find by many lasts and shoes.
Here you can see that the foot is pushed too much to
the front part due to the wrong Girth point.
A bad fit is the result. The toes will be damaged and the
foot will slip out of the shoe (Fig.16)
(Fig.16)
Hans van der Elzen
48
Last Construction
Control and measure the lasts for producing the correct shoe types.
Control the Ankle measure
Control the Girth and Instep measure

When we have measured the Last length, Girth, Instep and Ankle points than we must control as well the
back part line of the last.
It has happened several times that these lines are made too much to the inside of the last and will hurt the feet
by the Achilles muscle what is very painfully during walking.
We measure the back part line
by using a winkle as you see on
(Fig.17).
(Fig.17)
Hans van der Elzen
Last Construction
49
Place the last on the winkle Fig.18, the space

by point A should be 3 mm and by point B,
at the correct quarter height of the last the
space should be 2 mm.
(Fig.18)
On Fig.19 you can see that point B is made
too much inside of the last and will hurt the
feet during walking.
It can happened that also point A is too much
inside and that the heel rounding is too round
what will give the shoe an ugly look.
Sometimes point B is too close to the winkle
at heel height and that results that your foot
is slipping out during walking.
(Fig.19)
Control also if the toe thickness is

correct. (Fig.20)
(Fig.20)
Hans van der Elzen
50
Hans van der Elzen
Proportions
51
CHAPTER 6: PROPORTIONS
Hans van der Elzen
52
Proportions
Standards for the correct proportions

People have tried since antiquity to measure the proportions of the human body to fit harmoniously within a certain diagram.
Leonardo da Vinci (1452 - 1519) and Albrecht Durer
(1471-1528) especially intensively studied the bodys
proportions.
Leonardo da Vinci studied the anatomy by carrying out
autopsies of the human body.
Moreover he was painter, sculptor, architect, engineer,
musician, writer, thinker and scientific research worker.
Their findings as comparative material have not lost their value even today.
It is almost impossible that two people are built with the exact same proportions. However, after a large
number of comparitive measuring, a standard norm has been established.
Hans van der Elzen
Proportions
53
By using this standard norm, we can

determine an individuals construction
norm.
Investigative research and analysis
has determined that the human body
is built according to the principle of
the golden cut proportions.
The golden cut is the partitioning of a line part in extreme and middle proportion.
A calculation from this proportion until 3 decimal places provides closely 0,618: 1 or approximately 5: 8.
This partitioning must be so that the smallest part is

in proportion to the largest as largest to the complete
line part.
This implies that a line of 1000 mm after dividing according to the Golden cut the largest piece 618 mm
and the smallest piece 382 mm measures.
Draw a rectangular triangle of which line part A-C is

the half of line part A-B.
The Golden cut played an important part particularly

in the Renaissance period in art and architecture as a
standard for harmoniously proportions.
The value is not exactly calculable; she can be determined only by geometrical construction as follows;
Example: basic line A-B is 10 cm, line part A-C is 5
cm.
Connect with a line the points B-C.
Using a passer, the length from A-C, make a circle
from point C. We name the cutting point on line part
C-B, point D.
Measure afterwards with the passer the length from
B-D.
From point B with the passer circle out point E on the
basic line A-B.
The human body has been built according to the proportions of the Golden cut (therefore also the foot).
The best possible way for making shoes is also using
the Golden cut principle.
The professional designer always looks for the proportions within the shoe.
When the proportions of the shoe conform with the
proportions of the foot, then they are in harmony.
Entirely good proportions arise by standards norms.
We have applied these standards throughout this
book and to lasts - and basic pattern models.
Now we know the proportion between A - B, A-E and

E-B.
This is what we call the Golden Cut.
Hans van der Elzen
54
Hans van der Elzen
Shoe types and constructions
55
CHAPTER 7: SHOE TYPES AND CONSTRUCTIONS
Hans van der Elzen
56
Oxford shoes, Blucher and Balmoral

Bluchers
A Blucher refers to the way a
Derby style shoe ties up. See
the brackets to the right?
That is a good representation
of the way a Blucher acts. A
Blucher is far more adjustable
than a Balmoral because the
bottom of the lace-up part of the
shoe is not sewn down, so it can

be pulled tight or left more open
in the area around the ball of the
foot.
Balmorals
A Balmoral (or "Bal") refers to
the way an Oxford style shoe
ties up.
A Balmoral is far less adjustable
than a Blucher because the
bottom of the lace-up part of the
shoe is sewn down, so the part
of the shoe around the ball of the
foot can only be one
circumference and cannot be

adjusted smaller or larger.
Oxfords,
characterized
by
shoelace eyelet tabs that
are stitched underneath the
vamp contrast with Derbys, or
Blcher design, characterized
by shoelace eyelet tabs that are
sewn on top of the vamp.
Brogue shoe (Also called Balmorals)

TheBrogueis a style of low
heeledshoeorboottraditionally
characterized
by
multiplepiece, sturdyleatheruppers
with decorative perforations
and serration along the pieces
visible edges.
Hans van der Elzen
Brogues
were
traditionally
considered to be outdoor or
country footwear not otherwise
appropriate for casual or
business occasions, but brogues
are now considered appropriate
in most contexts.
57
Venetian style shoe

Venetian
style
shoes
(venetian-styleloafers)
are mid-heel slippers with
anupperor top part that is
slightly open to the kick of the
foot and theankle bone. The
term came fromGreat Britain.
Loafers are Slip on shoes with

amoccasintoe construction and
slotted straps stitched across
vamps.
Derby shoe
ADerbyorGibson(also
called aBlcheror bucks)
is a style ofshoecharacterized
byshoelaceeyelet tabs that are
sewn on top of the vamp, a
construction method that is also

sometimes referred to as open
lacing where the tongue cut in
one piece with the forepart.
(Detail of a man's derby style dress shoe showing lacing eyelet tabs sewn on top of the vamp).
Oxfords (or bal-type),

in contrast to blcher, are
characterized by shoelace eyelet
tabs that are stitched underneath
the vamp. The Blucher design
is
named
after
Prussian
generalGebhard Leberecht
von Blcher, one of Napoleon's
more formidable opponents who
decided his troops needed better
shoes and commissioned a boot
with side pieces lapped over the
front. This design was adopted

by armies across Europe,
became a trendy sporting and
hunting shoe in the 1850s, and
then became appropriate for
town affairs in the turn of the
century.
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58
Wellington boot
TheWellington boot
also known asrubber-boots,wellies,wellingtons,topboots,Billyboots,gumboots,gummies,barn boots, Wellie boots,muck
boots,sheep boots,shit-kickers orrain bootsare a type ofbootbased
uponleatherHessian boots.
They were worn and popularized byArthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of
Wellington. This novel "Wellington" boots then became a fashionable
style emulated by the Britisharistocracyin the early 19th century.
Moccasin
Amoccasin
is aslippermade ofdeerskinor
other soft leather, consisting of a
sole and sides made of one piece
of leather, stitched together at the
top, and sometimes with a vamp
(additional panel of leather).
The sole is soft and flexible and

the upper part often is adorned
with embroidery or beading, etc.
Historically, it is the footwear of
manyNative Americanpeople;
moreover, hunters, traders, and
European settlers wore them.
Opanak
are a kind of traditional shoes
worn
inSerbia,Bosnia,
Herzegovina,
Croatia,
MacedoniaandBulgaria. The
attributes of the Opanci are: a
construction ofleather, lack of
laces, durable, and have hornlike ending on toes.
Hans van der Elzen
The design of the horn-like

ending indicates the region of
Serbia the shoes are from. The
concept, and the word, exists
in Romania (asopinc) which
is borrowed from Slavic. The
opanaks are considered the
traditional peasant footwear for
people in the Balkan region.
59
Monk shoe
Amonk shoe
is a style ofshoewith no
lacing, closed by a buckle
and strap. It is moderately
formal
shoe:
less
formal
than a fullOxford(American:
Balmorals); but more so than an
openDerby (American: Blcher).
In between these, it is one of the

main categories of men's shoes.
It often has a cap toe, it is
occasionallybrogued, and is
popular insuede.
Boat shoes
Boat shoes(also known
asdeck shoesortopsiders)
are typically canvas or leather
with non-marking rubber sole
designed for use on a boat.
Modern boat shoes were invented
in 1935 by Paul Sperry after
noticing his dog's ability to run
easily over ice without slipping.
Boat shoes are traditionally
worn withoutsocks. Boat shoes

are used by sailors, as the
name suggests; however, since
the 1980s they have become
fashionable footwear in America,
the UK, Portugal, and France.
Some boat shoes today have
traditional white, non-marking
soles, though many others today
have dark non-marking soles.
Slip-on shoe
Slip-ons
are
typically
low,
lacelessshoes. The style most
commonly seen, known as
aloaferin American culture, has
a moccasinconstruction. First
appearing in the mid-1930s from
Norway, they began as casual
shoes, but have increased in
popularity to the point of being

worn in America with citylounge
suits. They are worn in many
situations in a wide variety
of colors and designs, often
featuring tassels on the front, or
metal decorations (the 'Gucci'
loafer).
Hans van der Elzen
60
Strobel Slip Last

Strobel Slip Last shoe construction method stitches
a sole-shaped fabric board to the upper of the shoe
that is slipped onto a last, closing the upper with
stitches around the perimeter of the sole. The board
may be varied from thin flexible materials to thicker
stable materials, or a combination of the two stitched
together, to improve stability or flexibility.
Hans van der Elzen
The word Strobel describes the specific way of

stitching upper leathers and lining to the insole of
footwear. The Strobel construction offers a much
higher flexibility and strength than many other types of
construction. The outsole is normally either cemented
or stitched to the insole to complete manufacture.
61
Norwegian construction
Every single centimeter of leather is stretched, tacked, and sewn by hand on the last, together with a single
welt. The welt is made rigorously by hand bordered asymmetrically along the profile of the insole lining.
Stitch-Down construction
The upper is stretched over the last, folded or flanged
out and glued to the midsole. They are then stitched
with a lockstitch machine and cement bonded to
the soles using a neoprene adhesive. A lockstitch has
a top and bottom stitch which is inter-stitched. This
stitching will not unravel even if a stitch is removed.
Stitch-down construction shoes can use leathers of

higher oil, fat content than cement construction and
therefore have a suppler feel. Good stitch-down
shoes are stitched using the lockstitch method for
greater security.
(Wont unravel)
Hans van der Elzen
62
The Blake Stitched

The Blake stitched is also called through and through
construction. Blake is the name of the inventor who realized, at the end of the 19th century, a machine which
allows to mechanize the through and through stitch.
The Blake welted is a simple and solid construction.
It allows having at the same time a welted and light
shoe. This method is perfectly adapted to the smart
dress shoes with a leather outsole: loafers, moccasins, styles with buckles, oxford shoes.
The upper is first lasted on a plastic production shoe
last. Then the outsole is put in position.
After that the shoe last is withdrawn and the Blake
stitching is realized from the inside to the outside in
order to join the upper with the welt and the sole.
Hans van der Elzen
The Blake welted, as well as the Goodyear welted,

can also be easily removed to put a new sole as often
as necessary. If all the components used in this type
of construction are good ones, with a great level of
quality, Blake welted is synonymous of luxury shoes.
Today, several famous brands offer quite only Blake
welted shoes: Berlutti, Santoni, Stefanobi, Testoni...
At the beginning, just after the purchase of a Blake
welted shoe, you are more comfortable.
After some days of use, the Goodyear construction
is more comfortable. It is up to you to choose the
construction which feels better for you.
63
The Goodyear Welted

The Goodyear Welted was invented in United
States at the end of the XIXth century by Charles
Goodyear Junior, son of Charles Goodyear, the
inventor of the vulcanization. The Goodyear welted,
except with its origins, is completely different of the
vulcanization.
Technology.
A Goodyear welted shoe is made with two stitching:
The first one called Goodyear is realized with the
Goodyear machine. It joins the welt, the upper, and
the insole.
The natural cork has the particularity to take bit by

bit the shape of the foot. As a result, you have the
feeling that your shoe is made-to-measure and you
cannot give up it.
Today, all the great names of the luxury industry:
Para boot, Weston, Church, Edward Green,
Crocket and Jones still respect this tradition of
Goodyear Construction. The Goodyear welted is
the must of the smart shoes for men. In current
language, Goodyear welted is synonymous of
luxury English shoes for men.
The second one is made with a Little Points

machine. This stitching links the sole with the welt.
This construction is very long-lasting. Other benefit:
the foot is lying on a leather insole which is on a
thickness of natural cork.
Hans van der Elzen
64
The Bologna construction

The Bologna construction is the best for elegant
and comfortable shoes. This method is quite
expensive and until today, there were just few
famous Italian shoemakers who proposed it.
Technically, the Bologna construction is a Blake one
without insole for lasting. This one is replaced by a
tubular lining which goes all around the foot.
Hans van der Elzen
To give more comfort, the tubular lining is made

with two-ply leather reinforced with an extra
soft pad positioned where the foot will rest.
The Bologna construction is definitely the solution
to take advantage of a great comfort without saying
goodbye to the elegance and the smart touch of
formal shoes for men.
65
The Real Moccasin

This is a shoe made from a single piece of leather,
passing around the front part of the foot and under the
sole. The apron is then sewn on the top to give a firm
but comfortable grip on the foot.
These Shoe types and constructions are a few and
you will find many of them on the internet web pages.
It is good to know the most of them.
I only can guaranty that the way we explain it to you

will result in a very good fitting upper and de lasting
from these uppers will be very easy and smooth.
It is very important that the upper will fit on the last
correctly as this will have a big influence for the
correct fitting for the shoe in total.
The next Chapter we will start with How to make the

correct paper patterns for several shoe types. There
are many different ways to these paper patterns for
shoe uppers.
Hans van der Elzen
66
Outsole; profile not too heavy
with a running roll effect and for

easy running, high toe-spring.
Rubber and phylon combined
must be light and flexible.
Outsole; with rubber and phylon
combined, with Lateral TPU shank

support, stable looking, must
be light in weight. In-sock with
cushion. Also can be Shell-molded
Rubber unit bottom with stitching
around the side wall of
Upper; Sportive looking

shoe.
shoe.
Outsole; with special dots for

soccer games. Normally 13 studs
for training and 7 studs for match
in PU injection unit bottom.
shoe.
Outsole; look like vulcanized.
Outsole; look like vulcanized.
Hans van der Elzen
shoe for skating with thick

foam on quarter line.
Normally in Blucher look
so that it can be tightened
up on foot.
shoe for skating with

normal foam on heel line.
67
Upper; For indoor sports,
Outsole; Important: light weight/
Outsole; rubber outsole
Upper;
Typical classic
styles, mainly made in
leather or action leather.
Outsole; Rubber look with Eva
Upper; Sportive lighter
Outsole; light in weight, rubber

with at least 80% phylon or Eva
midsole. Insole with cushion, very
comfortable for walking.
Upper; Canvas, easy/
Outsole; rubber or vulcanized
like
soccer,
squash,
badminton, table tennis
and others.
shoe, mainly using mesh

for upper-breathable and
light weight.
look than outdoor type.

Breathable materials for
upper and real light weight
in total,
simple/light weight but

mainly in fashion color or
printed textile.
thin outsole in transparent colors

in combination with Eva or Phylon.
Normally in Crepe or gum rubber
sole for wear-resisting.
combined with EVA.
combined.
Hans van der Elzen
68
Outsole; from leather or rubber.
Upper; Classic looking
Outsole; light in weight.
Upper; Fashion looking
shoe type for daily wear.
shoe,
using
materials
and
combinations.
trendy
color
Outsole; stable looking and not Upper; Sportive looking

heavy. Normal lasting or double
lasting with comfortable insole.
boot special made for the

performance of basketball
games. Normally with
high-cut look for protecting
the ankle bone.
Outsole; medium or heavy profile Upper; Sportive strong

outsole, combination with rubber
and phylon, flexible.
looking shoe or booth with

resistant materials and
toe and heel protectors.
Similar to the Hiking shoe
but much lighter in total
weight. Can also perform
in high-cut.
Outsole; must be light in weight Upper; Sportive looking

used for mounting walking. With
medium or heavy outsole profile,
Hans van der Elzen
boot High-cut for protecting

ankle with heavy foam
padding collar, for comfort
and flexible issue normally
in combination with heavy
mesh for upper material.
Paper Patterns
69
CHAPTER 8: PAPER PATTERNS
Hans van der Elzen
70
Paper Patterns
This picture show the most common names of the shoe parts.
Hans van der Elzen
Paper Patterns 71
Sizes
In mm
Sport shoe
Heights
Sizes
In mm
Normal shoe
Heights
24
54
24
44
25
55
25
45
26
55
26
45
27
56
27
46
28
56
28
46
29
57
29
47
30
57
30
47
31
60
31
48
32
61
32
49
33
63
33
51
34
63
34
51
35
64
35
52
36
66
36
53
37
66
37
54
38
67
38
55
39
69
39
56
40
69
40
57
41
70
41
58
42
72
42
59
43
72
43
60
44
73
44
61
45
75
45
62
46
75
46
63
47
76
47
64
THESE BACKPART SHOE HEIGHTS

MEASUREMENTS ARE WITHOUT INSOLES!
We always measure inside of the shoe!
DEPENDS ON THE THICKNESS OF THE
INSOLES WE MUST ADD THE THICKNESS
EXTRA TO THESE MEASUREMENTS!
***** Please note that you will need

these backpart heights when you make
paper patterns!
Hans van der Elzen
72
Paper Patterns
Before we start making paper patterns we need to find and mark the construction points from
the last.
This will be a good help for making the paper last copy and later the paper patterns.
Through the measuring tape we connect A and B.

We start with the measuring tape at the back part line A and then we move
forwards to nose point B.
On the measuring tape we measure with the centimeters visible.
The total centimeters found at point B we keep in our memory for the
second step.
Point A is plus / minus 3 centimeter above the sole side of the last.
(See Fig.1)
(Fig.1)
By the middle of the measuring tape we connect
A and B.
Now the measuring tape is with the French and English
sizes visible, based on the number of centimeters
we found in Fig.1 (for example 30 cm.) we count 30
French sizes.
With the same number in French sizes we
see on the measuring tape, we put a straight
line in 90 degrees to the centerline of the last.
This point is C, Vamp length point.
(See Fig.2)
(Fig.2)
Hans van der Elzen
Paper Patterns
(Fig.3)
73
(Fig.5)
By the middle of the measuring tape we connect

A and B.
When we put the last on the correct heel height (XY)

we can find point F.
The number we found dividing by 2.

We make a straight line from the measuring tape at
90 degrees to the centerline of the last.
Point F can be found at the deepest point of the last.

We call this point F also Girth point of the last.
(See Fig.5)
This point found is the instep point D.

(See Fig.3)
(Fig.4)
(Fig.6)
Point E is the heel height and is measured from the

sole side of the last upwards.
Make a straight line from point C to F and divide

this length by 2.
With each size larger we increase the height about

1 mm up.
(See Fig.4)
This is the way to find point G.

This point G is called the
low lateral instep point. (See Fig.6)
For each size smaller we decrease the height by 1

mm down.
See the table for the heel heights in the beginning
of this book.
Hans van der Elzen
74
Paper Patterns
(Fig.7)
All found points will be connecting to
another point.
Point D is the instep point.
(See Fig.7)
(Fig.9)
Point X is on the back part last line, just at the
intersection of the line and the sole heel area of the
last.
Point H is found by connecting points F and X, 2 / 3
part of the distance from X to point H.
Point H is called the quarter support point.
(See Fig.9)
(Fig.8)
Instep point D is drawn at the middle line of the last
and will used as a baseline.
From point D draw one line at a 90 degree line on
the instep
C - D, in order to obtain a helpline from D to D 1.
(See Fig. 8)
Hans van der Elzen
Paper Patterns 75
All fixed lines and layout issues are now fixed on

the last.
Any desired model can now be drawn the in the
right proportion.
Drawing a design on the last you learned and will
see better the real proportions and form of shoe
and last.
(See Fig.10)
(Fig.10)
Help line G-E is important for your quarter

part height of the shoe. By designing your
quarter part higher than the help line G-E you
will damage the ankle of the feet and walking
will be very pain full.
Hans van der Elzen
76
Hans van der Elzen
Fish-bone last copy
77
CHAPTER 9: FISH-BONE LAST COPY
Hans van der Elzen
78
Fish-bone last copy
1. Find the middle line of the last.

The lasts are a-symmetrical, this means
that you find on the outside of the last more
material than on the inside (See last A)
2. To get a clearer picture of the middle line,

the sole part can help you determine where to
capture the center lines.
(See last insole B)
3. Draw the middle line.

Draw on the last the middle line exactly in a
straight line over the last.
Draw these lines very carefully, both for toe
and instep and back part.
Hans van der Elzen
Fish-bone last copy
79
4. Draw the outline of the last.

Place the last with the inside on a sheet of
drawing paper.
The last rest then most stable.
Now draw an outline with the pencil around
the last.
See, before you draw the contour of the
outline the images A-B-C-D.
To obtain a good outline it is important to
keep the pencil vertically along the last parts.
5. Draw a line on 20 mm. distance beyond

the already drawn line of the last, except at
the top of the last, (ankle part).
Here is 15 mm. distance enough!
Then draw a dotted line at 10 mm. distance
within the last line.
The cuts, which we need to cut later, we
draw according to the image.
Note specially the lines on the nose, heel,
and instep parts that need radically to be
drawn.
Hans van der Elzen
80
Fish-bone last copy
6. Cut out Rough copy.

Cut two rough copies.
For the outside part one piece and one for
the inside part of the last.
Cut the drawing carefully in the drawn lines.
7. The copy must be set down on the flanks

of the last.
This avoids twisting of the rough copy of the
last.
8. To apply the rough copy.

Put the rough copy with tacks (nails) of 15 to
20 mm. down the last flanks.
Make sure that the rough cut copy covers all
lines to be draw.
Hans van der Elzen
Fish-bone last copy
81
9. Draw the middle line.

Carefully draw the middle line of the rough
copy.
This copy may not be moved during
drawing.
10. Draw also the top of the last.

Position the last flat on the worktable.
11. The line of the sole side also must be

drawn.
Again be careful that the copy does not
move during drawing the outlines.
Hans van der Elzen
82
Fish-bone last copy
12. Take special care of the toe and heel

part (on the sole side).
Cut the tabs of the rough copy in the same
radius as it is drawn.
See illustrations A and B.
When we dont do this right then we do not
get a clear line of the last.
13. Cutting the last lines as we have

marked.
Cut the marked lines from the last rough
copy accurately, both inside and outside the
copy.
Avoid any tearing of the rough copy. Provide
a sharp knife,
14. Draw the copies.

Drawing the both obtained copies (inside
and outside last copy) to the drawing paper.
Provide an accurate reproduction.
Hans van der Elzen
Fish-bone last copy
83
15. The copy must be cut straight out, so that we

can make from the surfaces a medium last copy.
16. Draw the medium last copy.

First draw the outside last copy on the
drawing paper.
After that, draw the inside last copy.
The points A-B-C shall be positioned exactly
the same from both rough copies.
(See illustration).
A- Girth point
B- Instep point
C- heel part.
17. Draw the medium, as the images A and

B show.
(Medium is indicated by a dotted line.)
18. Cut the medium last copy.

At the bottom of the copy (sole side) cut
the outer contour lines (points D and E).
Line F we cancel.
Line G shows the inside of the last.
From all other lines we cut the medium.
Now we have a Medium copy.
Hans van der Elzen
84
Hans van der Elzen
Adhesive last copy
85
CHAPTER 10: ADHESIVE LAST COPY
Hans van der Elzen
86
Adhesive last copy
19. How to make a last copy with adhesive

paper tape.
20. Add adhesive tape on the flanks from

both sides of the last. (See illustration B)
Stick the tape in the length and height of the
last in order to avoid stretching later when we
need to pull-off the tape from the last.
21. Draw the middle line on the last in the

same way as you see under point 1, 2, and
3. (See illustration C)
22. Cut exactly the middle line and all other

marked lines out on the last.
(See illustration D)
Hans van der Elzen
Adhesive last copy
87
23. Now you have a clean paper copy still

glued on to the last.
In this way you are able to draw your design
on this adhesive last copy.
(See illustration E).
24. After you have drawn your design pull-off

very carefully the paper copy while stretching
it.
(See illustration F)
25. The adhesive paper copy is removed from

the last.
(See illustration G)
26. Stick the paper copy on drawing paper and

make sure that you do not stretch it.
Stick it down from the middle (see the arrows
on illustration H) to the sides.
27. After the paper copy is applied well to the

drawing paper make the medium copy and cut
it out as you see by the points 15 till 18
Hans van der Elzen
88
Hans van der Elzen
Wet paper last copy
89
CHAPTER 11: WET PAPER LAST COPY
Hans van der Elzen
90
Wet paper last copy
To make a wet last copy we take a usual packing paper and cut this paper around the last and then give a
few cuttings as you see on the Illustration.
With small foam we make the paper a little bid wet with normal water. Do not make the paper too wet!
The outlines of the last we mark with a black marker, mainly a black cool marker is ok for it.
Mark as well the girth and instep points as later you will need them.
Hans van der Elzen
Wet paper last copy
91
Put the last carefully on slightly wet paper. Make sure that you put the wet paper against the black market lines
without moving the wet paper in any direction.
This part is not easy as you need to practice several times in the beginning. After finding your way, you will be
able to make a last copy within a few minutes.
See as well the illustrations.
When you have pushed the wet paper against the black lines on the last you can see now these black lines
appear on the wet paper, see illustration right side under.
Hans van der Elzen
92
Wet paper last copy
After you have made from the last, the copy from
the lateral and the medial side you must make the
medium paper copy of the last. Draw first the lateral
copy on flat paper with the 3 marked points as you
can see on the illustration at the left upper corner and
then you draw the medial paper copy inside.
Important is that both paper copies are crossing
parallel with each other at the points A and B. Now
you draw a line exactly between the lateral and
medial paper last copies as you see on the illustration
below (red stipple lines). This new line you cut out
Hans van der Elzen
and thats what we call our medium paper copy of

the last. This medium last copy we use to set up our
paper pattern.
ONLY when your medium paper last copy is made
100% correct than your paper pattern will fit on the
last.
(Of course your paper pattern needs to be made as
well 100% correct. Every well made pattern starts
with an 100% correct paper Last Copy)
Construction help lines
93
CHAPTER 12: CONSTRUCTION HELP LINES
Hans van der Elzen
94
Names of construction points and lines in the copy for low cut paper patterns
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Vamp length point

Instep point
Quarter height point
Lateral instep point
Medial instep point
Ball/Girth point
Shank point
Heel height point
Hans van der Elzen
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
Basic heel height line

Heel height line
Copy line
Ball/Girth line
Lateral quarter line
Medial quarter line
Lay on/or lay under helpline
Instep helpline
95
(Fig.1)
To get the correct proportion of a shoe design on your last copy we set-up construction lines
as following;
1. Set your paper copy out on the correct heel height A-A1. Make sure that the inside of your copy rest
on the basic line A-B.
2. Point C 1 you find in the same way as we explained on page 72, point C (Fig.2)
3. Point C you find in the same way as we explained on page 73, point F (Fig.5)
4. Point C3 is the half part of C-C1
5. Point C4 is 1/3 part of C-C1
6. Point A2 is the correct quarter height for your shoe size and you find this table on
page 67
7. Line A-D is 15 mm shorter than line A-B
8. Point C2 we calculate from line A-D, where A-C2 is 62% from line A-D
9. After finding the points you see on Fig.1, connect all the points with lines.
Hans van der Elzen
96
(Fig.2)
The Instep helpline and the Lay on helpline we find as following;
1.
2.
3.
4.
Point F we find in the same way as you see on page 73, point D (Fig.3)
Point H we explain on page 74, (Fig.9)
Connect the points C3-H
Draw the line F-G as you see on Fig.2
Hans van der Elzen
97
Illustration A
When you have some more

experience with paper copies
and last measurements you
also can find the important
proportion points as you can
see on the Illustrations A and
B.
Illustration B
Measure always your last as

you can see on Illustration B
(Fig.4)
the length from point A-A1 and
control this on your paper copy.
Hans van der Elzen
98
Hans van der Elzen
Derby Blucher
99
CHAPTER 13: DERBY BLUCHER
Hans van der Elzen
100 Derby Blucher
A Derby Blucher for the shoe designer is one of

the most satisfying shoe types. On this type of shoe
he can design many variations of application. The
closure of this type of shoe adapts well to the foot, so
that a perfect fit can be achieved.
It is possible that two different shoe designers are

modeling on the same last the derby Moliere and that
one shoe designer create a perfect fit, while the other
creates the opposite result.
It is this type of shoe that you see a lot from the

orthopedics and footwear manufactures, as sport,
walking, or comfort shoes. The proper modeling of
this type of shoe is very important because many
people wear this type of shoe.
Sometimes in a situation like this they thinking that

the bad fitting of the last cause the wrong look but
is in fact a question of wrong modeling. The correct
modeling for standards we explain step by step in this
book. Drawing a paper pattern in the correct manner
we ensure proper fit of the upper on each type of last.
When the last has the right fit it can be that by

incorrectly modeling the correct fit it can turn out
negatively.
Hans van der Elzen
Derby Blucher
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Toecap
Vamp
Yelets holes
Tongue
Medial quarter part
Lateral quarter part
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
Folding line
Quarter flap line
Vamp quarter line
Medial quarter line
Quarter lay-on line
Tongue line
101
H. Quarter back line

J. Vamp under lay line
K. Trench stitching line
L. Montage folding line
M. Paper copy line
N. Toecap line
Hans van der Elzen
102 Derby Blucher
Illustration 1
Illustration 2
e
Und
r-lay
Illustration 3
Every pattern part what is stitched UNDER another

pattern part must have under-lay.
The under-lay is normally 10 mm wide. Illustration
2 shows you that the vamp (B) has under-lay for the
toe-puff (A) and the quarter part (C).
For the finish of model lines (cutting edges) we
can make side folding of the upper material. For
side folding we add 5 mm to the pattern parts, see
illustration 3 in blue color.
On upper vamp part B we mark the under-lay lines for the correct stitching from the upper material parts A an C.
Hans van der Elzen
Derby Blucher
103
(Fig.2)
The quarter line (lateral) of a Blucher is not an easy line to draw.
Create a distribution of the help lines (see picture) so it is somewhat easier to draw the quarter line
in the appropriate way. (Fig.2)
(Fig.3)
The dotted line A is the normal quarter line, line B is a quarter line that is drawn too high. The quarter
Line B will cut in the foot and will hurt the ankle, while the design of the quarterback will look to heavy
(Fig.3).
Hans van der Elzen
104 Derby Blucher
(Fig.4)
Dotted line A is the normal quarter line. Quarter Line B is a quarter line that is drawn too low.
Quarter Line B will yawn and therefore will stay open from the last, because the lines are very close
to the flanks of the last. (Fig.4)
(Fig.5)
The modeling of a low shoe type has a medial and lateral quarter line. This is necessary in
connection with the arches; the arch is medially higher than laterally. Both quarter construction
lines indicate how the quarter lines must be drawn. (Fig.5)
Hans van der Elzen
Derby Blucher
105
(Fig.6)
On Illustration 1, the quarter back part line
is a line that must fit perfectly on the last.
It is very important that we draw the quarter
back part line, 3 mm inside the paper copy.
At the heel height we draw the quarter back
part line 2 mm outside the paper copy in
order to give space for the counter between the
lining and upper leather.
the counter. Point A is drawn too much inside

the paper pattern and this will damage the feet.
On illustration 3, you see that the quarter
back part line by point A is not drawn inside
of the paper pattern. The feet will slip out of the
shoe during walking.
On illustration 2, you see the quarter back

part line too round and therefore point B will
not fit on the last and gives too much space for
Hans van der Elzen
106 Derby Blucher
Fig.7)
The quarter flaps from the Blucher Derby must follow as close as possible to the construction lines
of the paper copy (A).The vamp quarter line we draw 4 mm below the lateral quarter line in order to
get enough and good instep space. (See fig.7).
(Fig.8)
Fig. 8, see the correct quarter flaps from a Blucher Derby on the last shape.
Hans van der Elzen
Derby Blucher
107
(Fig.9)
The quarter flaps from the Blucher Derby are drawn to round below the construction lines (A). This
will result in an ugly look for this type of shoe (Fig.9).
(Fig.10)
Fig.10, see the quarter flaps from a Blucher Derby on the last shape when the lines are not correctly
drawn.
Hans van der Elzen
108 Derby Blucher
(Fig.11)
Illustration 1, the lay-on lines we draw in a
way that we have enough space on the quarter
between the quarter line and lay-on line, for
adding an application stitching.
The trenches we stitch on the quarters are 12
mm long for thin calf leather, and 15 mm long
for thicker leather. The trenches we stitch 10 mm
above the lay-on line.
Hans van der Elzen
On illustration 2, you see point A is the normal

lay-on line. B is drawn too low and the quarter
part at this point looks too heavy and not nice.
On Illustration 3, you see A as the normal layon line. B is drawn too high and the quarter part
at this point is too small and the look is not nice.
Derby Blucher
109
(Fig. 12)
After we have drawn the quarter part and
trenches we set-up the folding line points.
(A folding line is the line where we fold the
paper in order to make the vamp and other
parts of the paper patterns).
The folding point for the vamp we set-up with a
winkle.
- The winkle we place on line A. at the

top of the paper copy (Fig.12).
Both quarters (medial and lateral) must have

the correct space between the trenches
otherwise the upper will not fit correctly on the
last.
The leather between the trenches will show
wrinkles and after the last is pull out from the
finished shoe the shoe will show a bad and ugly
shape.
(See Fig.2, on Page 96, Line A is the line

through point C1 and point F)
- Point C is at the end of the trench

from the quarter part.
In this way we find the exact space needed

between the medial and lateral trenches.
Point B is the correct folding point for the vamp.
Hans van der Elzen
110 Derby Blucher
(Fig.13
Fig.13, point 1 we found with the winkle, point
2 we find at the top of the last and set-up on the
paper pattern, 3 mm inside of the paper copy.
The measurement for point 2 is the distance
between the sole side and the nose-top of the
last. At this point 2, the folding line lay under the
last copy. Here we save leather material and
by montage the upper on the last we get fewer
wrinkles. The leather between the trenches on
the vamp by a Blucher is not stitched. Therefore

a folding line drawn at the nose-point under the
paper copy will give extra force to the flanks of
the last and the vamp will not be pushed too
much to the front. By montage of the upper on
the last, it will be easier when front part of the
upper is already looking downwards (through the
correct folding line) and easy to place between
the grips of the molding machine.
(Fig.14)
After finding the points 1 and 2 we can draw the folding line 3 on the paper pattern (Fig.14).
Hans van der Elzen
Derby Blucher
111
(Fig.15)
Fig.15 shows clearly how we need to drawn a folding line for a Blucher Derby.
Winkle A, is the correct way, equal to the copy line C1-F.
Winkle B, is in the wrong way, too low and under the instep point.
Winkle C, is in the wrong way, too high above the instep point.
It is VERY IMPORTANT that you set-up the folding line correct, by not set-up the folding line correctly
it will influence the fitting and the look of the shoe in a very negative way.
Hans van der Elzen
112
Derby Blucher
(Fig.16)
For the montage of the upper on the last we
need to fold the upper material on the insole.
How much we need to extend on the upper
material depends on;
1. The thickness of the insole

2. The thickness of upper leather and
lining
3. The system we use for the

montage of the shoe.
As standard norm we use for folding 16 mm, at
the shank part 18 mm and at the nose part
15 mm. (See Fig.16)
(Fig.17)
The length for the tongue we can measure
exactly. Measure the length from the end of the
trench point A and instep point B. Then from the
same trench point A we set out the same length
to the folding vamp line point C. We extend this
Hans van der Elzen
length by 10 mm. During the montage of the

upper on the last point C will be pushed a few
mm to the front. The reason for this is that the
vamp and the quarter part between the trenches
are not stitched together. (See Fig.17)
Derby Blucher
113
(Fig.18)
When we know the correct measurement of the
tongue we can draw the tongue line with a small
curve between the quarter help lines.
Draw the tongue line to the end of the trenches

and then continue the drawing line with a distance
of 10 mm the lay-on help line (See Fig.18).
Depending on the shoe size the tongue is

between 6 and 7 cm wide (see A).
Fig.19 shows you how we need to
design the tongue of the shoe.
The feet get during the day bigger,
around 5%. The quarter flaps will
get more distance from each other
by point B.
The tongue must protect our feet by
point A.
A tongue that is wide enough will
protect our feet better and give
us also the possibility to place a
softer material when necessary by
exostosis.
(Fig.19)
Hans van der Elzen
114 Derby Blucher
(Fig.20)
When we draw the tongue we make several times and the feet gets less protection especially at the
the mistake at the beginning of folded vamp line. first point of eyelets and laces (See Fig.20).
The tongue line we draw is too small at this place
(Fig.21)
Also it happens that we draw the tongue line too
round, (see by point B) here count the same as
we explain by Fig.20.
Hans van der Elzen
Draw always the tongue line at the folded vamp

line a little curved as you can see on page 113
(Fig.19)
Derby Blucher
115
(Fig.22)
The small lace or eyelet holes we set-up in general When we want to put bigger lace or eyelets
10 to 12 mm from the sides of the quarter flaps. holes we must add them with greater distances
The distance between them is around 15 mm.
from each other. Reinforce the quarter flaps,
We must take care that we dont put them to especially when you use thin upper leathers.
close to the sides, because during the closing of (Fig.22)
the laces we risk that they will tear out.
(Fig.23)
It is VERY IMPORTANT that the quarter top shoe it will damage the ankle and make it almost
part lines (see A and B) are drawn UNDER the impossible to walk (Fig.23).
medial and lateral quarter help lines. When Later in this book I will explain how to draw these
you draw these points A and B higher, than the quarter top part lines for Sportive shoes.
Hans van der Elzen
116 Derby Blucher
(Fig.24)
To draw the quarter lining must be done very
carefully. The quarter lining must fit perfectly in
the upper quarter part. The patterns for the lining
we make 4 mm bigger at the quarter flaps as
then we can stitch the lining better to the upper
material. Especially take care at the end of the
trenches points as at those points the quarter

and vamp lining must fit together. At the back
part of the quarter we must take in (shorten), the
counter must fit between the lining and upper
material. By not shorten enough will lead to many
wrinkles in the back part of the shoe (Fig.24).
(Fig.25)
The vamp lining we draw 2 mm under the folding
line at the nose-part from the upper material.
At the tongue we make the vamp lining 2 mm
larger for stitching the vamp lining to the upper.
By the end of the trenches both parts
(quarter and vamp) of the lining fit perfectly
Hans van der Elzen
together. At the side parts, the quarter and vamp

lining overlay is 10 mm.
These parts we stitch first together and after that
we place and glue the lining inside of the upper.
After stitching we remove the extra lining from
the upper material (Fig.25).
Derby Blucher
117
Low cut shoe paper pattern with Velcro straps
(Fig.26)
1. Draw on your paper copy the help lines.
2. Draw the eyelet stay, point B. 10 mm to the front direction from point A, Fig.26.
(Here we get a better instep for the feet)
(Fig.27)
3. Draw two or more Velcro straps (depended the design) A and B.

4. Draw the Velcro straps 5 mm higher than the paper copy to the folding line C D, Fig.27
(Due to the fact that the tongue and upper materials are under need the Velcro straps
these Velcro straps otherwise they will be too short when the shoe is ready)
we need to enlarge
Hans van der Elzen
118 Derby Blucher
(Fig.28)
5. Draw the eyelet stay and mark the lines E F on it.

6. Extend the Velcro straps to the lines E F, Fig.28
(With many designs you will be not able to make the eyelet stay in one piece as you
see on this illustration, make than the cut under line E)
(Fig.29)
For your design there are many ways how to make the inside look of the shoe
with Velcro straps. You can add extra pieces from upper materials, using big
eyelets in the eyelets strap or only one piece of upper material, see Fig.29.
Hans van der Elzen
Derby Blucher
119
The standard Derby Blucher knows 4 original styles.

See below pictures
Hans van der Elzen
120
Hans van der Elzen
Balmoral 121
CHAPTER 14: BALMORAL
Hans van der Elzen
122 Balmoral
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Toecap
Vamp
Yelets holes
Tongue
Medial quarter part
Quarter back part
Hans van der Elzen
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
Folding line
Quarter flap line
Vamp quarter line
Medial quarter line
G. Tongue line
J. Quarter back part line
K. Toecap line
M. Paper copy line
Balmoral
123
Balmoral upper leather parts.
(Fig.1)
Fig.1, see the upper parts without any underlay or extra material for finish the model lines.
A Balmoral refers to the way an Oxford style shoe ties
up.
Oxfords, characterized by shoelace eyelet tabs that

are stitched underneath the vamp contrast with Derbys, or Blucher design, characterized by shoelace
eyelet tabs that are sewn on top of the vamp.
A Balmoral is far less adjustable than a Blucher because the bottom of the lace-up part of the shoe is
sewn down, so the part of the shoe around the ball of
the foot can only be one circumference and cannot be
adjusted smaller or larger.
Hans van der Elzen
124 Balmoral
(Fig.2)
Balmoral Oxford Style, (Fig.2).
With this standard type the quarter part is stitched under the vamp. The closing of this shoe can be
made only at the instep part. See the difference with the Derby/Blucher shoe type.
(Fig.3)
The vamp folding line from a Balmoral shoe we under the copy line because here the vamp and
draw from vamp height point A to nose point B. quarter part are stitched together. If we draw the
Nose point B we find as we already explained vamp folding line by A under the copy line, than
by the Derby shoe type. Point A we dont draw the vamp will not fit correctly to the last (Fig.3).
Hans van der Elzen
Balmoral
125
(Fig.4)
The folding vamp line we draw as you can see
on Fig.4. Be sure that on point A you draw that
line with a curve starting by point B, point B
is also the beginning of an extra help line B-D.

Draw your vamp line following A-B-C-D
(Fig.5)
Fig.5 shows the upper on the last. Vamp height
point A will be pushed less than the points B
to the front during the montage from the upper
on the last. The flaps of the quarter are stitched

together by point A.
Hans van der Elzen
126 Balmoral
(Fig.6)
Here we see the stipple line from the vamp line B. This vamp line is not following the help line and
will look ugly as it is not made in harmony of the last shape, Fig.6.
(Fig.7)
Fig.7 shows the upper on the last.
The vamp line by the points A-B-C is looking too big and not in harmony with the last shape.
Hans van der Elzen
Balmoral
127
Balmoral lay-on lines (Fig.8)
(Fig.8)
Illustration 1, here you see a normal vamp line Illustration 3, the quarter part is looking too
and you will have enough space for making a small (see stipple line) and also not nice when
nice application on your quarter part of the shoe. the shoe is ready.
Illustration 2, the quarter part is looking to wide
(see stipple line) and not nice when the shoe is
ready.
Hans van der Elzen
128
Balmoral
(Fig.9)
The lay-under part by this Balmoral type is at depending of the leather thickness, the stitching
the vamp folding line at least 12 mm and is rows, and how we finish the cutting lines of the
going back to 10 mm. This lay-under part is also leather (Fig.9).
(Fig.10)
For this Balmoral type we see in general a wing toecap.
To draw this wing toecap in the correct way we use a construction nose line, see Fig.10.
Hans van der Elzen
Balmoral
129
(Fig.11)
A standard wing toecap we draw as you can see on fig.11. The length of the standard wing toecap
is the half of the last copy.
(Fig.12)
The standard length of the back part quarter drawing of this standard back part quarter we
at the quarter heel height is 1/8 part of the last must take care that we make this part not too
length. At the sole side the standard back part small, see Fig.12
quarter is 1/4 part of the last length. During
Hans van der Elzen
130 Balmoral
(Fig.13)
We draw the standard back part quarter as you can see in the Illustration but in fact we can draw
any design we find suitable for the design of our shoe. Take for this part always 10 mm under lay
(Fig.13).
(Fig.14)
At the eyelet stay we can draw a stitching line in harmony with this type of model.
Draw the stitching row with a wide of 25 mm on the eyelet stay and draw it then to the lateral instep
point A, (Fig.14).
Hans van der Elzen
Balmoral
131
(Fig.15)
The small laces or eyelet holes we put normally when we close the laces strongly. Use always
between 10 and12 mm from the model line see reinforcement material underneath these holes.
Fig.15. Important is that these holes are not to
close to each other otherwise they can tear out
(Fig.16)
Fig.16, see how to draw the vamp lining. We of material on the flanks of the last (shoe). The
draw 5 mm before the upper leather vamp line folding line of the vamp lining we draw as well at
the vamp lining line A, in order to prevent too the nose point 2 mm inside of the copy line. At
much material thickness at that line. After this the lining folding part (for montage the upper) we
point A we draw the vamp lining line more to deduct 5 mm of the lining for better gluing of the
the front specially to prevent too much thickness upper to the insole of the shoe.
Hans van der Elzen
132 Balmoral
(Fig.17)
The quarter lining we must draw very exactly into The quarter lining is by line A, 10 mm longer
the upper otherwise the lining will not fit at all. then the vamp lining by line B. The vamp lining
Fig.17, you see where to shorten and where to is underneath of the quarter lining and will be
give extra material for the lining.
stitched together by line A.
(Fig.18)
We draw the tongue length (after we draw the copy by the instep points A.
quarter lining) 4 mm longer by point B than the The ultimate operation of the upper stitching is to
quarter lining. The width of the tongue (by instep add the tongue. The tongue length by the instep
point) is 30 mm in the paper pattern, see Fig.18. of the shoe is normally 10 mm.
The folding tongue line we draw parallel on the
Hans van der Elzen
Balmoral
133
(Fig.19)
When we design quarter back parts in one piece
we draw first the folding line for this part.
Take good care that you dont draw this line too
much inside the paper pattern otherwise you will
shorten the total model and all of the construction
points are going backwards.
Follow as much as possible the strait line as you

will find at the highest point of the quarter back
part. By adding the counter into the upper with
the counter machine, the rounding of the quarter
back part will be recovered.
(Fig.20)
In order the make the quarter part seam stitching This part we add to the outside quarter through
stronger often we design a lip to this quarter part the folding line A. We stitch this lip on the inside
as you can see on fig.20.
quarter.
Hans van der Elzen
134
Hans van der Elzen
Lady Pump
135
CHAPTER 15: LADY PUMP
Hans van der Elzen
136 Lady Pump
1. Vamp part
2. Medial quarter part
3. Lateral quarter part
Hans van der Elzen
A. Folding line
B. Vamp quarter line
C. Medial quarter line
D. Lateral quarter line
E. Quarter back line
F. Copy line
G. Montage folding line
Lady Pump
(Fig.1)
(Fig.2)
(Fig.3)
(Fig.4)
137
Fig.1.The vamp length of a lady pump model

can be made in different lengths depends
on the fashion or Customer request. Here
we put the vamp length 10 mm before the
girth point A to point A1. The other points we
find as following: Connect point A with point
B. Point C is 1/2 part of line A-B. Point D is
2/3 part of line A-B. Point E is quarter back
height.
Fig.2.The Vamp and quarter lines you draw

as you can see on the Illustration by using
the construction lines as you find on the
Illustration above. Draw the model lines just
under the construction lines. Line D is medial
quarter top line, Line C is lateral quarter top
line.
Fig.3.The best way to draw on the last (when

you need to work with plastic lasts instead of
wooden last) is to work with adhesive paper
glued on the last.
Fig.4. Especially for a Ladys Pump it is

better to see and draw the design on the last
but also for making the correct paper copy for
this Lady Pump model. To make these types
of models looks easy but in some cases the
pattern maker will face problems with the
correct fitting of the upper on the last.
Hans van der Elzen
138
Lady Pump
Fig.5. After we have drawn the Pump line on

the adhesive paper copy, we cut the model
line.
Fig.6. You sees the correct paper copy

still glued on the last.
Fig.7. You see what is not good when you

make a paper copy for a Ladys Pump. Never
use the complete paper copy as you can
see here! Use ONLY the copy part as you
can see on Fig.6.
Fig.8. Some pattern makers are still making

the complete paper copy for the Ladys
Pump. If you do so you will find the problems
as I show in the next Illustrations.
Hans van der Elzen
(Fig.5)
(Fig.6)
(Fig.7)
(Fig.8)
Lady Pump
(Fig.9)
(Fig.10)
139
Fig.9. You see two lines A and B. Line B is

the line of the wrong paper copy because
you have made it from the whole paper
copy of the last. When you check and fit this
paper copy after you made it, it will turn out
as you see with line B.
Fig.10.Here you see how to make the correct

paper copy of the Ladys Pump. See line A
from Fig.9.
The difference between correct or not
correct making of the paper copy will result
in a good fitting and nice looking shoe or bad
fitting and look of the shoe.
(Fig.11)
(Fig.12)
Fig.11. This Ladys Pump is made with the

paper copy in the correct way, the instep
looks nice.
Fig.12. will show you how the Ladys Pump

will look when you make the paper copy in
the wrong way, the instep does not look
nice.
Hans van der Elzen
140
Lady Pump
(Fig.13)
Fig.13. shows a simple Ladys Pump design on move to point B. (Point A is the girth point of the
a heel of 20 mm. The vamp length depends on last). Use the construction lines to draw the medial
the Customer request or fashion trend. In this pattern

we make the vamp 10 mm shorter than point A and
and lateral quarter lines as you see on Fig.13.
(Fig.14)
Fig.14, we draw the paper pattern. Here you see the lateral pattern of the Ladys Pump.
Hans van der Elzen
Lady Pump
141
(Fig.15)
Fig.15, Is the basic pattern drawn on the paper copy
and the total of the pattern for a Ladys Pump. I show
here the lateral part in one piece and the medial part
in two pieces. Mainly when we are making a pattern
for a Ladys Pump in leather we make the medial part
in two pieces to save leather material.
When we are using synthetic material (such as PVC)

than it can be use full that we make the medial part in
one piece, for saving extra cutting and stitching during
the manufacturing of this type of shoe materials.
*** How to make the parts in one piece will be
explained in the next illustrations.
Hans van der Elzen
142 Lady Pump
(Fig.16)
Fig.16 shows you the Illustrations, 1 and 2.
Illustration 1 is a Ladys Pump paper pattern with a heel height of 20 mm.
Illustration 2 is a Ladys Pump paper pattern with a heel height of 35 mm.
When you look to the folding lines A from both illustrations, the distance from A and B are different, because
of the different in heel heights.
For a Ladys Pump with different heel heights we are able to make the paper pattern in one piece what is
mainly requested for synthetic materials.
Hans van der Elzen
Lady Pump
143
(Fig.17)
Fig.17 shows you A, B and C patterns.
The paper patterns A and B are mainly used for
expensive leathers.
The patterns market with B we cut from a little bit less
quality leather (from the same skin).
Herewith we save leather and expense for making
this shoe.
The paper pattern you see with the letter C is made

for synthetic materials in order to save cutting and
stitching during the upper manufacturing of this type
of shoe.
How to make the paper pattern for the heel heights
higher than 20 mm we will show you with the next
Illustrations.
Hans van der Elzen
144 Lady Pump
(Fig.18)
Fig.18 is Step 1. For making the Ladys Pump paper pattern in one piece.
The lateral low instep point is the turning point of the last but also for a paper pattern.
This turning point we need to mark as you can see on fig.18.
(Fig.19)
Fig.19 shows you Step 2.

Make in the paper pattern also the medial quarter part visible (using the correct folding line).
Draw part A through the turning point as you see on the above Illustration.
Part A will be the vamp part of this pattern and draw it as you see with the RED line B.
Hans van der Elzen
Lady Pump
145
Fig.20 is Step 3.
Place paper pattern part C
between the quarter parts in the
middle of the folding line A of
your paper pattern.
Part C you have made already
in the beginning of your paper
pattern so that you can use it
to calculate the turning of your
quarter parts and create enough
space so that the patterns fit
perfectly together as we show
in the next Illustration.
(Fig.20)
(Fig.21)
Fig.21 is Step 4 Turn the quarter parts D (using the
turning point) more open so that quarter part C fits in
between. Vamp part B cannot be changed or moved
during this maneuver. Part B must have and keep
the shape otherwise it will be deformed during the
montage of the upper on the last.
The points E shows you where the paper pattern will

be shorter, what will have no influence for the fitting
of the upper due to the shape of the last at that point.
Hans van der Elzen
146
Hans van der Elzen
Stitch-down
147
CHAPTER 16: STITCH -DOWN
Hans van der Elzen
148 Stitch-down
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Vamp
Eyelets stay
Eyelets holes
Tongue
Medial quarter part
Quarter back part lip
Hans van der Elzen
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
Folding line
Vamp quarter line
Medial quarter line
Quarter back line
Copy line
Montage folding line

J. Quarter back part lip line
M. Paper copy line
N. Vamp line
Stitch-down
149
(Fig.1)
Stitch-down, pieces of upper materials
Fig.1 shows you the upper pieces of a stitch-down construction shoe.
For this construction we need to change the measurement of montage folding part from 15 mm (for a normal
montage construction) to 10 mm. For this construction the folding part is not folding under the shoe but is
folded to the outside of the shoe.
This type of construction normally gives a very flexible shoe if a flexible outsole is added.
Hans van der Elzen
150 Stitch-down
(Fig.2)
Fig.2 shows you how to make different folding lines
from the quarter back part for a
Stitch-down paper pattern;
*** For the montage of the upper we need to fold the

material to the outside of the shoe and for the stitchdown construction, 10 mm is enough.
1. Is a folding line for the quarter back part lip

(see A),
2. Is a folding line for quarter back part if we
want to make the medial and lateral quarter
back part in one piece (see B),
3. Is for a normal seam stitching line (see C).
The quarter back part height as you see on this

Illustration is around 10 mm higher above the lateral
quarter help line.
Hans van der Elzen
The normal heel heights schedule you find at page 69

by Chapter 7, paper patterns.
Strobel shoe
151
CHAPTER 17: STROBEL SHOE
Hans van der Elzen
152 Strobel shoe
(Fig.1)
Fig.1 is a Strobel running shoe with all paper pattern pieces, the paper pattern pieces are Illustrated
WITHOUT ANY UNDERLAY on the separated pieces!
Fig.1 just gives you an Idea how many pieces an Athletic running shoe can have.
Besides these pieces there are also molds to be made for High Frequent processing.
Hans van der Elzen
Strobel shoe
153
(Fig.2)
Strobel Slip Last: Shoe construction method stitches
a sole-shaped fabric board to the upper of the shoe
that is slipped onto a last, closing the upper with
stitches around the perimeter of the sole.
The board may be varied from thin flexible materials
to thicker stable materials, or a combination of the
two stitched together, to improve stability or flexibility
(Fig.2).
The word Strobel describes the specific way of

stitching upper leathers and lining to the insole of
footwear.
The Strobel construction offers a much higher flexibility
and strength than many other types of construction.
The outsole is normally either cemented or stitched to
the insole to complete manufacture.
Fig.3 shows you how to mark the points for
strobel stitching.
The points A and B we mark on the paper
copy from the last and last insole!
These marks are very important when we
are stitching the insole on the upper as they
must fit exactly together at these points.
The paper pattern maker will mark these
points in his pattern correctly.
(Fig.3)
Hans van der Elzen
154
Strobel shoe
(Fig.4)
Fig.4 shows only the outlines of this strobel pattern
as I need to explain how to proceed for strobel
construction. The standard folding line A we can
change to folding line B for the upper to cap, in this
way we shorten the line C at the front of the last. The
back part line D we increase 3 mm of the total length
from the paper pattern to make the pattern a little
bigger as we need this for the production to put the
last inside of the upper.
When the upper is too tight it will be very difficult to

put the upper in the correct shape .After the upper is
fixed to the last the heat setter will tighten the upper
to the last.
Do not put the heat setter for synthetic upper material
higher than 60 degrees Celsius! Otherwise the
upper will get bigger during this process!
(Fig.5)
Fig.5 shows you how some pattern makers are
making this back part line in the paper pattern. They
are doing this because of the foam thickness we put
in the upper quarter part. In case you are doing this,
reconsider that the foam is very soft and when you
Hans van der Elzen
push the foam you have no thickness at all. To draw

the back part line like you see on this Illustration
will result in that the feet slips out during walking.
Therefore it is important that you draw the back part
line as explained in the first Illustration of this page.
Strobel shoe
155
(Fig.6)
Fig.6 shows you how we need to make the mark
points for Strobel system.
For the montage folding we add only 2 mm to our
basic paper pattern. For the insole board pattern we
take out; 2 mm and 3 mm from the last insole pattern.
At the front, back part, lateral and medial parts
from the last insole pattern we take out
3 mm, the other parts we take out 2 mm.
This we do for the stretching of the upper materials at
these points.
These patterns are made when the OUTSOLE covers

at least 10 mm from the sides of the upper by the
montage folding. (That is mainly by sportive outsoles).
In case the outsole covers less than 10 mm then
we need to add more montage folding material to the
basic paper pattern.
In that case we need to decrease the same
measurements from the Insole board.
Hans van der Elzen
156 Strobel shoe
(Fig.7)
Fig.7 shows you the lining for an athletic sport shoe.
The points from A to B are mainly zigzag stitched.
The points from C to D are also zigzag stitched or
glued together.
The Top quarter line is stitched and turned and give a
good look for a sports shoe.
Hans van der Elzen
The materials used for this type of shoe is mainly

textile or mesh backed with thin foam.
The back part quarter line from the lining is
shortening as we explained with the normal lining.
Standard Blucher boot
157
CHAPTER 18: STANDARD BLUCHER BOOT
Hans van der Elzen
158 Standard Blucher boot
Names of Construction points and lines in the paper copy for standard boot patterns
1. Vamp length point

2. Instep point
3. Quarter height point
4. Lateral instep point
5. Medial instep point
6. Ball/Girth point
7. Shank point
8. Heel height point
9. Upper height point
10. Front leg width point
11. Middle leg width point
12. Back leg width point
Hans van der Elzen
A. Basic heel height line

B. Heel height line
C. Copy line
D. Ball/Girth line
E. Lateral quarter line
F. Medial quarter line
G. Lay on/or lay under help line
H. Instep help line
J.
K.
L.
M.
N.
O.
P.
Quarter size line

Front leg position line
Middle leg position line
Back leg position line
Inclined upper height line
Front leg position help line
Back leg position help line
Standard Blucher boot 159
Names of upper parts and paper pattern lines

1. Vamp
2. Tongue
3. Quarter
A. Folding line
B. Quarter flap line
C. Vamp quarter line
D. Vamp tongue Line
E. Upper height line
F. Quarter lay on line
G. Tongue line

J. Vamp under lay line
M. Paper copy line
N. Eyelet stay line
Hans van der Elzen
(Fig.1)
For the construction of a boot we need lines for the
direction of our legs when we are standing.
These lines define leg standing in our paper copy
compared to the heel height of the boot.
It makes no difference how high the heel is because
the leg standing lines will be drawn always in 90
degrees of the basic line A-B (see Fig.1).
There are a few different ways to drawn the line J-A1.
See the red lines in the Illustration above, here we
draw a line from point A1 through point C2.
Than in 38 degrees we draw the line from A1 C2 to
the copy line.
(For each 10 mm of the heel height we calculate 1
degree more).
For example: our heel height is 20 mm high, the line
A1 J is 38 degrees
When the heel height is 30 mm than the degree must
be 1 higher, 39 degrees, etc, etc.
The line A1 C2 determine the first leg line O P.
The line O - P stands in 90 degrees on line A B.
Hans van der Elzen
The middle leg standing line L M we find through

point K, point K is the half of the line A1 J. The line
L M we draw also in 90 degrees on the basic line
A B.
The Line A1 A3 stands as well in 90 degrees from
the line A B.
The Line A3 P we draw in 90 degrees on line A1
A3.
The height of the boot we explain with the next
illustration.
The other way to find point J is a following:
Point J normally we setup 5 mm higher than instep
point F, for Men shoes for Lady shoes we setup 10
mm higher than point F.
The rest of the points we find in the same way as
explained above.
161
(Fig.2)
Standard height for a boot for size 42 is 120 mm. We
can calculate the standard height for boots with the
Golden Cut for any size we need to make.
Important is that we ALWAYS use the Last length,
NOT the Feet length!
Fig.2 shows you how to setup the golden cut on your
drawing. We start always from the heel height.
The standard boot height we put always 15 mm higher
(for all sizes) than the point you find with the golden
cut.
Example for size 42, feet length is 280 mm:

38% (= point golden cut) x 280 mm =
106.4 + 15 mm = 121.4 mm is the standard boot
height.
Example for size 39, feet length is 260 mm:
38% (= point golden cut) x 260 mm =
98.8 + 15 mm = 113.8 mm is the standard boot height.
Hans van der Elzen
162
(Fig.3)
Fig.3 explains how to connect and find the correct
points and lines for a standard boot design.
Important for the start is to know the size and the girth
measurement from the shoe we need to make.
Our example; size 42 and with a girth measurement
of 240 mm.
Girth measurement = 240 mm less 10 mm = 230 mm
is Ankle measurement.
230 mm: 2 = 115 mm is the half ankle size.
part of the ankle size is 230 mm: 4 = 57, 5 mm
parts from the ankle size we setup from the middle
leg standing line L-M to the front this will be point R.
The same part we setup to the back and this will be
point S.
R-S is the half ankle size on the line A3- P (See Fig.3).
Hans van der Elzen
(See for the girth/ankle measurements as well

Chapter 2 Girth measurements).
With the next steps we increase and connect;
The lines O-P with 15 mm (point P1).
The lines J-R (point R1).
The line A2-S.
We have created now the construction for a standard
ankle boot and we can draw now the design for it.
163
(Fig.4)
Fig.4 shows you a standard Blucher boot at the ankle height in the correct harmonious proportions.
If you want to design a fantasy model in your paper pattern setup then always use the standard
boot template, so that you are always sure that your design will fit properly on the last.
Hans van der Elzen
(Fig.5)
For designing a higher boot than the standard boot
we need to add extra construction lines with the leg
measurements.
Except for the line P1-A3, we start as usual with the
construction lines and points for the standard boot.
For every 40 mm we are making the boot higher
than the standard boot we increase 10 mm for the
leg wide.
We explained that for size 42 the girth measurement
is 240 mm, the ankle measurement is 10 mm less =
230 mm.
The leg measurement is for each 40 mm higher
extra 10 mm wider;
Ankle measurement plus 10 mm = leg
measurement = 240 mm.
(Every 10 mm higher = 2 mm wider for the leg
measurement).
Hans van der Elzen
Fig.5 shows you how to extend the 40 mm for the

leg measurements.
Always use the construction line L-M when you
increase the measurements for the leg.
Keep in mind that your leg will always stand strait
up no matter the heel height of your shoe you will
design.
165
(Fig.6)
Fig.6 shows you a higher boot than the normal
standard boot.
The constructions for standard designs we setup in
order to get harmonious proportions.
The construction as I have explained, you can use
for the most of standard designs as they are always
the same.
designs to explain a shoe type.

From these basic models we design a fantasy
model.
The Fashion and trends will explain you what type of
shoe you must design to stay up to date.
In the shoe industry we know around 45 basic
Hans van der Elzen
(Fig.7)
For the standard Blucher boot we make the lining as for the low cut Blucher.
Fig.7 shows you how many millimeters to take in at the back part line.
(Fig.8)
The vamp lining we make the pattern the same as for the low cut shoe (Fig.8)
Hans van der Elzen
167
(Fig.9)
In many boots you will be asked to make a water
tongue pattern.
Draw the water tongue with the folding line B parallel
with the copy line in the same way as you see on
Fig.9. (The tongue line B cross the vamp line 10 mm
for underlay).
Tongue line A we draw exactly through the trench
point and parallel with the folding line B as well.
Fig.9 shows you how to extend the eyelet stay from

part 1 to part 2.
Folding line A will be later the folding line from the
water tongue in the upper.
Now you have the half of the water tongue in your
paper pattern.
The next Illustration explains how to construct the
complete water tongue.
The stipple line drawing (See Fig.9) we duplicate on

folding line A.
We increase 4 mm on the eyelet stay where we need
later to stitch this part on the quarter part.
Hans van der Elzen
(Fig.10)
The half of the water tongue is made when you draw
the underlay between the folding lines A and B, at
the vamp and tongue line.
The next step: you duplicate parts 1 and 2 on the
folding line B, (see Fig.10).
The water tongue is now complete.
Hans van der Elzen
The folding lines A are the folding lines from the

water tongue when you stitch the water tongue in the
upper part of the boot.
Moccasin
169
CHAPTER 19: MOCCASIN
Hans van der Elzen
170 Moccasin
(Fig.1)
Fig.1 shows you the paper pattern of a moccasin
low cut shoe.
Here I have drawn only the lateral side of this
shoe type so that it is easier to understand.
Important is that you mark the points 1,2 and 3
on the insole of the last and on the basic pattern
as you can see on Fig.1.
Where we stitch together the moccasin and
the plateau by hand, we need also to mark the
stitching points on the paper pattern.
These stitching points we setup between 4mm
or 5 mm from each other.
Fig.2 we explain this on the next page.
(Fig.2)
Hans van der Elzen
Moccasin
171
(Fig.3)
After we cut out the quarter/ vamp part from the
paper pattern we line up the mark points 2 and 3 on
the last insole as shown on Fig.3.
Starting with point A we move the quarter/vamp
pattern each time a little to the front in the direction
of point B. Here we must take care that the quarter/
vamp pattern lines up exactly with the last insole
pattern.
By moving the quarter/vamp pattern to the front

several times you mark the distance between the last
insole pattern and the quarter/vamp pattern as you
see these by point C.
Fig.3 shows you how I have done it on the lateral side
only! You must do the same also on the medial side.
Hans van der Elzen
172 Moccasin
Line C
Middle line of the

paper pattern and
last insole
(Fig.4)
Fig.4, here you see the result from the quarter/vamp pattern by the line C.
At the middle line from the quarter/vamp and last insole pattern we close the lateral and medial parts. (see
then the next illustration)
Hans van der Elzen
Moccasin
173
Line C
Montage folding part
Half length last insole
Montage folding part
(Fig.5)
We mark the stitching points on the stretched quarter/
vamp pattern (Lateral and medial).
Control that you make the same amount of stitching
points on the quarter/vamp pattern as on your unstretched quarter/vamp pattern (See Fig.5).
To make the paper pattern of a moccasin is not that

easy and also depends on the upper material we use.
By following this way as I explained here you will get
a very good result.
Starting at the half part of the last insole length we

add the montage folding part for the quarter part of
the paper pattern.
Hans van der Elzen
174
Hans van der Elzen
T-Band Low cut Shoe
175
CHAPTER 20: T-BAND LOW CUT SHOE
Hans van der Elzen
176 T-Band Low cut Shoe
Turning point for part D
(Fig.1)
Part C from the T-Band design you turn and setup to the folding line A B.
By turning this part to the folding line A B (see turning point for part D) you draw the stipple line D, see Fig.1.
Part D you extend for the strap flap, see part E.
(Fig.2)
Strap part F you extend 3 mm above the last copy, see Fig.2.
We extend the strap of a T-Band shoe because this strap must go through the vamp flap and need therefore
extra upper material. Point G is the point where we add a shoe buckle for closing the shoe.
Hans van der Elzen
Kids High Boot
177
CHAPTER 21: KIDS HIGH BOOT
Hans van der Elzen
178 Kids High Boot
We setup for a high boot first the construction lines

as explained by the standard boot.
Draw then the design of the high boot in your
construction as you see on Fig.1.
Follow the instructions as explained in this
Illustration
(Fig.1)
1. Draw the vamp design in your paper pattern as you
see under point A.
2. Turn the vamp by using the turn point between the
lateral and medial quarter help lines.
3. Turn the vamp to folding line B, this folding line we
setup from the girth point to the step in point. Here
we need to find a balance line between the girth and
the step in point as you see on Fig.1.
By higher heel boots you will get a bigger difference
between the girth and instep point. By turning the
vamp design down to point B you will get much less
Hans van der Elzen
wrinkles at the instep point of the high boot. Besides

that the boot will look much nicer after you take out
the last and it will be easier to produce these boots.
4. By the front part of the vamp you deduct 5 mm and
at the side of the vamp between line A and C you split
the difference as you see on Fig.1 by point B.
5. The quarter part of the boot must follow the normal
line from the quarter. These compensate enough for
the whole boot as we have turned the vamp in the
front under the normal last copy.
Kids High Boot
179
(Fig.2)
Fig.2 shows you the underlay from the quarter part
and the lining of the boot.
The blue stipple line is the lining in the boot.
Mainly you find in many boots the lining is too big,
especially in the parts where I mention 5 mm.
Make the lining narrow enough otherwise it will
damage the feet.
Make some experience with these lines and you will

find out the correct way for your paper patterns.
Always keep in mind by the construction of a high boot
that the leg of a person will stay always in a straight
line up whatever the heel height will be.
The underlay from the quarter part by the instep point

we increase to 20 mm as it will support the vamp part
at that point much better and the boot will look nicer
in general.
Hans van der Elzen
180
Hans van der Elzen
Cutting Edges 181
CHAPTER 22: CUTTING EDGES FOR UPPERS
Hans van der Elzen
182
Cutting Edges
Cutting Edges for uppers
Hans van der Elzen
Cutting Edges
183
Stitching lining in leather uppers in Different ways
Hans van der Elzen
184
Hans van der Elzen
Pattern Grading
185
CHAPTER 23: PATTERN GRADING
Hans van der Elzen
186 Pattern Grading
Last Copy Grading.

After you scan your last copy insert it into your Photoshop program.
For France sizes the length increase/decrease each size with 6.66 mm.
The heights increase/decrease each size with 2.5 mm.
See page 194 Grading, Fig 8.
2.5 mm
6.66 mm
Medial Last copy line

Base line
Heel heigth
With the medial site and with the correct heel height,
we draw the last copy on the base line.
D. Now you know the deferents between each

size in length and height,
Many last copies are different in height and length.

If you are working with this system for the first time
you can find out if this system is correct for you.
E. Normally the length increase/decrease with

6.66 mm, the height increase/decrease with
2.5 mm for France sizes,
Do the following;
A. Make a last copy of the smallest size,
B. Make a last copy of the biggest size,
C. Measure the length and height and divide
the measurement of the smallest and the
biggest size,
Hans van der Elzen
F. If your measurements are slightly

different it will be no problem to use your
measurements, experience will show you
how to use the measurements.
Pattern Grading
187
Fig.1 Scan your last copy and

open in Photoshop.
Duplicate the background
layer and rename this layer as
last copy.
You can duplicate this layer
on your menu, choose layer
> duplicate layer or drag your
background layer the bottom
in the rigth lower corner, see
yelow circles.
Fig. 1
Rename this new layer and

write last copy.
Fig.2 With the magic wand

tool select the last copy.
You will see the dots around
the last copy and around the
whole layer (make sure that
you have selected the layer
last copy).
Than go to the menu tools and
go to select > inverse.
Fig. 2
Fig.3 After you had select
inverse, go to the menu bar
and choose layer > layer via
copy.
Fig. 3
Hans van der Elzen
188 Pattern Grading
Fig.4 You have created a new

layer with ONLY the Last copy.
Rename this layer with the
size you have used.
(as example in this layer I
used size 37)
Fig. 4
Fig.5 Scale the last copy in

the size you want, choose on
the menu bar; edit > transform
> Scale.
Make sure you see your info
panel choose on the menu
bar; Window > Info.
The layer with the last copy
is actived and see on the info
panel W: show the length and
H: the heigth of your last copy.
See the yellow circles in the
info panel
Fig. 5
Fig.6 With the ruler tool you

can control the length and
heigth from your last copy.
The ruler tool you find on the
tool bar under the eyedropper
tool extension part.
See yellow circles.
Fig. 6
Hans van der Elzen
Pattern Grading
189
Fig.7 With the ruler tool click at

any point you like to measured
and drag the curser to the end
point.
In the info panel you can
check the measurements, see
yellow circle.
Fig. 7
Fig.8 Select the layer of the

size, then go to the menu tools
and choose layer > duplicate
layer.
Rename this layer in the size
you want to create and keep
this new layer activated.
Scale the new layer as you
have done before, see Fig.5
and drag the last copy to the
size measurement as you
want, control the measurement
in the info panel, see yellow
circles.
Fig. 8
Fig.9 in this illustration you
see the France sizes 36 till 40.
You can make any size you
want.
What you need are the correct
scaling tables.
These scaling tables that
I have created are based
on many years of my shoe
experience.
Fig. 9
Without these scaling tables

you cannot make the correct
sizes.
Hans van der Elzen
190 Pattern Grading
Fig. 10
Fig. 10
Fig.10 shows you the grading
from insoles and basic patterns
in different sizes.
These patterns are made in the
same way as the last copies BUT
with different scaling tables.
Fig. 11
Fig.11 here you see the basic pattern without the
background of the last copy. For every part of my
pattern I have made a shape layer what I can use
later for printing out different sizes. This shape layers
are not visible for now.
Hans van der Elzen
Drag first a guide line to the middle of your document

and line up your basic pattern against this guide line.
From your menu bar choose layer > duplicate layer.
Select only the layer you want to duplicate; all the
other layers are not visible!
Pattern Grading
191
Fig.12 Select on the menu

bar Edit > Transform > Flip
vertical and you see directly
two basic patterns in your
document.
Fig. 12
Fig.13 Line up the two basic
patterns against the guide
line.
To work out the pieces of the
basic pattern make on layer
50% visible.
Than from the menu bar select
layer > Merge visible, now
you have only one layer with
your basic pattern and you
can drag your basic pattern
around in one piece.
Fig. 13
Fig.14 Activate now your
shape layer and you can
work out the pieces from your
basic pattern.
Fig.14
Hans van der Elzen
192 Pattern Grading
Fig.15 From the menu bar

select layer > Duplicate layer.
Be careful here that you only
select the shape layer from
the toe puff.
Fig. 15
Fig.16 From the menu bar
select Edit > Transform > Flip
vertical and you see now the
other toe puff part.
Fig. 16
Fig.17 Drag the duplicate
layer from the toe puff above
the guide line and this part
must fit correctly into the basic
pattern.
Fig. 17
Hans van der Elzen
Pattern Grading
193
Fig.18 Now we merge the

two part and we get one
complete piece of the toe
puff.
All other layers must cannot
be visible, in this case you
see ONLY the to puff on your
document.
At this stage you can print
out the toe puff in the size
you have made.
Fig.18
Fig.19 In our basic pattern
we can make the
shape layer visible we want
to print out and to use for
cutting materials.
Fig. 19
Fig.20 For making the
backpart pice as you can
see on this figure we drag
a vertical guide line into our
document and place our
basic pattern against the
guide line.
Duplicate the shape layer
and merge visible. Now you
have the backpart piece
ready for printing out for
cutting the materials.
Fig.20
Hans van der Elzen
194 Pattern Grading
Fig.21 Making your pattern

pieces in the sizes you want
scale the basic pattern in the
sizes you need and print the
pieces out for cutting your
materials.
Fig. 21
Fig.22 The shape layer you

see here is from one size
smaller.
Drag the shape layer perfectly
in the basic pattern (here is
one size bigger) until it fits like
in Fig.19.
Print it out for cutting materials.
Fig. 22
Hans van der Elzen
Pattern Grading
195
Insole Grading
France
sizes
40
Length
Increase/decrease in mm.
6.66
Length in
mm.
266.40
Wide
Increase/decrease in mm.
1.4
39
6.66
259.74
1.4
87.0
38
6.66
253.08
1.4
85.6
37
6.66
246.42
1.4
84.2
36
6.66
239.76
1.4
82.8
35
6.66
233.10
1.4
81.4
Wide in mm.
88.4
Insole measurements are based on the last insole construction.
Wide
Length
Hans van der Elzen
196
Hans van der Elzen
Design / Last Copy
197
CHAPTER 24: DESIGN / LAST COPY
Hans van der Elzen
198 Design / Last Copy
It is possible to create your design without an expensive shoe program into basic
patterns within minutes.
Through this system it is easy to keep your last copies and basic patterns in your folders and data
base. You can scale your designs into every shoe size or last copy.
For designers: ask your Customer to send to you

the last copy or make the last copy yourself when you
have the knowledge how to make it.
For pattern makers: ask the designer the design.
The tools you need to manage in this system are the

most easy ones and it will take you only a short time
to learn them in case you dont know them.
Orthopedic shoes: need mainly two last copies,

now you can make your first basic paper pattern in
a few minutes and transform your second basic
pattern in seconds. Keeps your data base updated for
Customers concerning their designs and model.
Steps to fit your Design into a Basic last copy
(Fig.1)
Fig.1, Mark your last copy with the construction
points; vamp length, instep, and heel height points.
Setup measure lines in the left corner (5 cm x 5 cm)
for scanning and control your last copy, be sure that
(Fig.2)
the last copy is correct in height and length in your
program. Fig.2, Scan your last copy.
Fig.3, insert the scanned last

copy in Photoshop. File >
Open > select your folder and
insert your last copy.
Use the move tool (red circle)
for dragging the guide lines.
Control on the ruler the height
and length of your last copy,
see yellow circle and arrows.
(Fig.3)
Hans van der Elzen
Design / Last Copy
199
Fig.4, with the last copy visible

insert a new layer, see yellow
circles.
We have two different

selection tools.
By holding the selection
tool box you will find one
with a black arrow and one
with a white arrow.
Use
the
white
arrow
selection tool for changing
your lines.
(Fig.4)
Fig.5, draw the help lines.

Select the pen tool, the new
layer, and the path type.
Path type
With the pen tool connect the

construction points as you
see on Fig.5.
New layer
Pen tool
The line thickness we set to 3

points (select brush to set to
3 points).
(Fig.5)
Fig.6, select a new layer and
draw on this layer the back
part and quarter top line. We
draw this line with the pen
tool.
With the direct selection tool
(A) we can change the shape
of the lines.
Pen tool
New layer
After we have setup these

lines, press key B (=brush)
and key Enter. (Brush
thickness 3 points).
Direct selection tool (A). (Fig.6)
Hans van der Elzen
Fig.7 shows the back part

quarter and the quarter top
lines.
The yellow circles show the
new layer the brush tool and
the line thickness.
(Fig.7)
Fig.8 select your shoe design
what you want to drawn into
your last copy.
Select File >
Open > choose your folder,
Open > select > and press
Open.
(Fig.8)
Fig.9 show the design in your
Photoshop program when you
have opened correctly.
(Fig.9)
Hans van der Elzen
Design / Last Copy
201
Fig.10 is the next step for

dragging your design into your
last copy.
Select Window >
Arrange > 2-up Vertical, see
the yellow circles.
(Fig.10)
Fig.11 drags your design with
the move tool to your last
document.
The move tool you find on your
tools menu, see yellow circle.
(Fig.11)
Fig.12 views your design
and last copy in only one
document.
Select Window >
Arrange > Consolidate All to
tabs, see yellow circles.
(Fig.12)
Hans van der Elzen
Fig.13 with the design in your

last copy document, set now
the Opacity from your design
layer to 60%, see yellow circle.
Make sure that you select your
design layer to 60% and NOT
your last copy layer.
(Fig.13)
Fig.14 drag with the move
tool the design as close as
possible to the construction
lines from the last copy,
confirm the new position of the
design by pressing the button
of Commit transform.
Pay attention to the Opacity
of your design layer, when
needed to see your last copy
better decrease the Opacity.
You can rotate your design
when needed.
(Fig.14)
Fig.15 selects the wrap tool.
Select Edit >
Transform >
Wrap.
See the yellow circles.
(Fig.15)
Hans van der Elzen
Design / Last Copy
Commit transform
203
Fig.16 with the wrap tool you

are now able to push your
design better into your last
copy.
Press the Commit transform
button when you are agree
with the result.
You can wrap more times
when needed.
(Fig.16)
Fig.17 adds a new layer;
select the pen tool and the
path type for your document.
See yellow circles.
(Fig.17)
Fig.18 is setup for drawing the
design model lines into your
last copy.
Disable the help line layer (not
the back part and quarter top
line layer) and you can see
better the model lines of the
design.
Draw the model lines on your
new layer.
See yellow circles.
(Fig.18)
Hans van der Elzen
Fig.19 you have drawn de

design model lines into the
last copy.
When you disable the layer
with your design you see the
same as on this fig.19.
Line thickness
Shape type layers
Brush tool
The eyelets are drawn on the

layers in shape type and the
model lines on layers with
path type.
(Fig.19)
Fig.20 save your work in the
first place as Ps file.
Select File > Save as >
select your folder to keep the
document.
See the yellow circles.
When needed you can change
the model lines and or keep
the most of your work already
done for your next design on
the same last copy.
Fig.20)
Fig.21 Save your document
as Jpeg files for printing it out.
Select Layer >Flatten Image >
Save as >
See yellow circles.
(Fig.21)
Hans van der Elzen
Layer
with
design
Design / Last Copy
205
Fig.22 is the steps for the

folder you want to use for
saving your documents.
Save as > select your folder in
the dialogue box > select the
type and save.
Your document can be printed.
(Fig.22)
Fig.23 Select File > Print >

and you find the dialogue box
as you see on fig.23
See the yellow circles >
Layout is landscape > Scale
is100% > Print.
We call this our Basic paper
pattern.
(Fig.23)
Depended on the montage of the
shoe you can draw any system to this
basic paper pattern model.
You can do this already from the

beginning or later. Sometimes we
use the same model for two or more
different systems.
Hans van der Elzen
206
Hans van der Elzen
Designs made with Photoshop
207
CHAPTER 25: DESIGNS MADE WITH PHOTOSHOP
Hans van der Elzen
208
alking shoes
Hans van der Elzen
209
unning shoes
Hans van der Elzen
210 Designs made with Photoshop
asketball shoes
Hans van der Elzen
211
kate shoes
Hans van der Elzen
212 Designs made with Photoshop
utdoor shoes
Hans van der Elzen
213
Hans van der Elzen

Shoes and Techniques Hans - April - 2014

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Shoes and Techniques Hans - April - 2014

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1

I have written this book in memory

Title: All about shoes and techniques

Author: Elzen, Hans van der

Hans van der Elzen

When I finished this training,

Hans van der Elzen

The experience my great-grandfather had built up has been a family

Hans van der Elzen

As I am the last one in our family

My new book was written using the

In Memory of my Great-Grand Father

Zijn werken werden meermalen met goud bekroond.

For easier reading I have rewritten the text in Dutch:

He was in his time the best shoe teacher for 30

Men schrijft ons:

Hans van der Elzen

Chapter 1: Length measurements

Chapter 2: Girth measurements

Chapter 3: Insole, last construction

Chapter 4: Feet blue prints

Chapter 5: Last construction

Chapter 7: Shoe types and construction

Chapter 8: Paper patterns/shoe backpart heights

Chapter 9: Fish-bone, last copy

Chapter 10: Adhesive paper, last copy

Chapter 11: Wet paper, last copy

Chapter 12: Construction help lines for paper patterns

Chapter 13: Blucher Derby low cut shoe

Chapter 14: Balmoral low cut shoe

Chapter 15: Womens pump shoe

Chapter 16: Stitch-down low cut shoe

Chapter 17: Strobel running shoe

Chapter 19: Moccasin shoe

Chapter 20: T-Band low cut shoe

Chapter 21: Childrens high boot

Chapter 22: Cutting edges for uppers

Chapter 23: Pattern grading

Chapter 24: Shoe design into a pattern with Photoshop

Chapter 25: Designs made with Photoshop

Hans van der Elzen

CHAPTER 1: LENGTH MEASUREMENTS

Hans van der Elzen

Good to know why good fitting shoes

3 out of 4 Americans experience serious

Hans van der Elzen

getting in and out of bed or walking - for about 7

Shocking Foot Facts

exposing themselves to serious foot problems that

wear uncomfortable shoes as long as they were

For the mentioned reasons it is very important to

slippers worn by the children in their study, were

Hans van der Elzen

International Shoe Size Chart Notes

American Womens shoe sizes are the same

Europe uses a system that came from the

Mexican shoe sizes plus 1 are the same as

Japanese shoes sizes are American Mens

Australian and New Zealand use the same

Korea measure shoe sizes in Millimeters

Mondo point shoe size system.

Many years of research and development have led

Hans van der Elzen