Agi Faq Guide

Commonly
Asked Firearms
Questions
Answered by
Professional
Gunsmiths
and Members
of the Gun Club
of America
Presented by the
American Gunsmithing Institute
www.americangunsmith.com
WARNING: This is provided as general information only. Situations may vary. Consult a professional gunsmith regarding questions for
your situation. Sources generally believed to be accurate but not guaranteed or endorsed by AGI.
Copyright 2013 AGI/GCA. All Rights Reserved.
Part 1
Shotguns
Question:
Ken, I have here a single shot Stevens .410. The extractor broke and the customer brought the
broken extractor in and I ordered one from Numrich. Gave it to the customer and they installed
it. They called back and said that it would not eject the cartridge. Had them bring it in. The problem is the extractor is a little short and it by passes the lip on the cartridge. Either I was sent the
wrong part or the extractor is worn. Looks like the wrong part. Oh yeah the customer threw away
the old extractor. Can I fit this part? I need to raise it up a few thousands. The only thing I can do
is take some off the top of the bottom of the part of the extractor where it goes in behind the
spring to raise it up. Or can it be TIG welded and then fit?
Answer:
The part can be TIG welded and fit up. Too bad the old part was thrown away, as often the original parts can be re-built, now you have to fix the existing one. Just cause the part you were sent
doesnt fit and work correctly doesnt mean it is the wrong part, remember....THERE IS NO SUCH
THING AS A DROP IN PART. I know you have heard this before, parts are not perfect, even the
drop in parts will drop in and sometimes they work they just dont work correctly. You are going
to be a gunsmith. You must make the part work correctly. Good luck and let us know how things
are going.
Reply:
Got it build up and fitted. Tested it out about 25 times and seems to be just fine. Gave it back to
customer, hope it works good for him.
Answer:
Atta Boy Gregg! Thats what a GUNSMITH does that a Parts Swapper cannot. - Jack
Question:
I have a customer that has a Savage 24 over/under 22/20ga. who wants to put a scope on to use
with the 20ga. The gun has a 3/8 dovetail, but the scope says do not use dovetail with 20ga. Gun
is not tapped and drilled. Any suggestions on what type of mounting I should use to mount
Answer:
Boy that is a tricky one. I am unaware of any kind of scope mount for that model of over under.
This may be one of those where you get to experiment and make something from scratch or
adapt something to fit. Be aware this is going to be tricky and your customer needs to be advised
and kept in the circle of what you are doing and how you are doing it. He may not want to pay
for the cost of such a project.
Question:
I have one of the Russian EAA over/under shotguns in for cleaning. Customer complains its too
stiff to open. I know that these guns are this way as I own one and brother in law owns one.
Could I get some lapping compound and use it on the pin and hinge and work it in to loosen it
up? Or is it better to let it wear in just by using it? Thanks Gregg
Answer:
I would NOT put lapping compound on ANY of the working parts. The lapping compound will
imbed in the metal and you wont be able to remove it all so over time it will wear faster than
normal. You would shorten the life if the gun. Now when the customer says it is too stiff does he
mean the lever tension? Or does he mean the barrels breaking open is too stiff? The top lever
tension can be adjusted by the top lever spring or polishing the locking surface so the locking
block moves smoother and with less friction it will be easier. Be on your toes when working with
locking surfaces on doubles as it wont take much to wreck them. If it is too stiff breaking the barrels open, I would start by taking off the forearm and seeing if the barrels break open easier with
the forearm off. If it is then the forearm iron is too tight. Adjust it like Bob shows in the doubles
course. If the barrels are still too tight to break open you will have to find out where they are
rubbing and polish and smooth as need. I would try using some good moly grease on the working
surfaces. You can always tell the customer that it will work in as he shoots it and he can have the
fun of shooting it to make it smoother.
Reply:
I will check the forearm. These guns came from the factory tight. Its not the lever its the BBls
breaking open thats too stiff. Like I said I own one and my brother in law owns one. Ours just
wore in from use. I can remember when these guns first came out and I looked at one at a hardware store and they were really tight.
Question:
Took apart a Remington 1100 for a clean and oil. Reassembled and when the action is locked
open I can hear the Piston seal and piston slide on the Mag tube. I have it together, first the piston seal with the taper end toward the piston with
the piston taper fitting in the piston seal, and then the o-ring. Bob says to put the splits in the
piston and piston seal 180 from each other, if they are sliding are they going to stay 180 off each
other? Or did I miss something here? It feeds extracts and ejects great. Its almost brand new and I
didnt notice if they were sliding before I took it apart.
Answer:
They will slide on the mag tube. They will spin some as well but you dont want to reassemble
them with the splits lined up as they are more likely to stay lined up and that is bad. They might
not have slid on the mag tube when dirty as the carbon build up makes them drag. It sounds like
you have them assembled correctly.
Question:
Im working on a Remington 870 Police with a factory installed 1 butt pad. It appears to be affixed to the stock with pins instead of screws. How do I get the butt pad off?
Answer:
The stock has to go on before the pad, so I would really look for screws. What is the indicator of
pins vs. screws?
Reply:
I initially probed the screw holes with a Phillips screwdriver and it would not bite or grip the
screw slot. I tried to look into the hole using a high intensity bore light and could not see any
screw slot. I therefore assumed i was dealing with a pin and not a screw. I finally used a thin
shanked flat head screwdriver (the screw holes are very small) and felt the bit drop into a screw
slot. However, the screw was in so tight that I deformed the bit trying to break the screw free. Is
it possible that Remington epoxied or lock-tited the screws in? Any suggestions on how to break
the screw free without damaging the stock or ruining another screwdriver?
Answer:
OK sometimes they are really tight and sometimes they are rusted in place so I know exactly
what you mean by tight and wrecking screw drivers. I dont believe the screws are glued in but
anything is possible. Do you have to save the recoil pad? You might end up wrecking the pad in
the process of removing it. I would start by soaking the screw in a good oil like Kroil, or Break
Free. Then I would get a screw driver that is slightly larger than what you started with. Index the
driver in the slot then tap it down into place. Then with a lot of downward pressure see if you
can break one of the screws loose. If you can break them both loose you can undo like normal, if
not back out the one you get loose and spin the pad to the side to remove the buttstock. If the
pad fits down into the plastic stock slightly you will have to remove one screw and the other one
just enough to allow the pad to slide to the side. If you cannot get the screws loose at all, contact
your customer and tell him you will have to cut the pad off and then fit a new pad. Use a hack
saw and cut the screws off, but be careful not to hit and damage the stock.
Question:
Does the chamfered end of the firing pin striker go towards the hammer? I believe thats the
right way, but not sure. Took apart for a clean & oil and didnt pay good enough attention to it.
Answer:
Yes, that way the locking block can drag against it and still close. Ken
Reply:
Ken, The firing pin striker has a slot in it for the retaining pin. The notch is not centered. The
chamfered end is the shortest end. This is the end I have towards the firing pin. When I squeeze
the lever I can see the locking block rise and the bolt move slightly forward like its supposed to.
Everything seems to function properly, safety etc. The chamfered end pushs the firing pin forward
as it locks up, the bottom of the firing pin is also chamfered. I think this is correct?
Answer:
That sounds correct to me. If the long end is forward it will stick into the bolt and the locking
block cannot lower.
Question:
I have a J.C. Higgins mod 20-12Ga. series 583-200, but where do they hide the serial number?
Answer:
On a lot of those guns made before serial numbers were mandatory, and especially those for
Sears, there was simply no serial number. I would suspect the gun has no serial number and the
BATF makes allowances for that in their record keeping by allowing you to put No Serial Number
in the space for the serial number.
Question:
Im having problems with model 1148 .410 jamming. At first when he brought me the gun it
jammed every second shot .I looked at the shell latch, someone had been grinding on it so I got
another one and replaced it. Now it will jam every shot with the fired case half way out the chamber. What should I check for.
Answer:
OK the MT is half way out of the chamber, but where is the bolt? Is it all the way locked back or
is it still holding onto the case? Do the usual stuff right off the bat, polish the chamber and fit the
extractor. Also you may want to polish the mag tube so the friction system works on it smoothly.
Reply:
the bolt is about half way back but the case is not on the bolt .the other shell is trying to come
up from the bottom. I am a student I passed the pistol smithing class Im working on the shotgun
course now. Ive been reading some of the other messages do you work for Bob?
Answer:
Yeah, I have had to serve under the grumpy old guy for several years. I say grumpy old guy with
tongue in cheek as he is great to work with and work for. It sounds like you are getting into the
area of the course where Bob will go into long recoil operated shotguns, i.e. Browning A-5, PAY
ATTENTION!
This is important, learn the A-5 and the rest will come A LOT easier. Watch the course and tell me
what you think the problem or problems are with your gun and we will work it out.
Reply:
I think I got it today. I checked the ejector and it was slightly rounded so I squared it back up and
it seems to work good. I shot several rounds of 3 shells through it today. He also brought me a
Savage model 745 cant wait to start on it.
Question:
Do you use a special wrench to remove the 97 Winchester cap nut? I tried to get it to loosen
with a brass punch and it turned a little, but I dont want to ding it. Or do I just have a tight one.
Thanks Gregg
Answer:
We do have a tool for forearm nut removal. It was with Bob when I started to work for him and
it appears to be made in the shop. You will probably have to make one yourself. I am unaware of
an aftermarket tool. The nuts are usually tight.
Reply:
The Armorers course for the Winchester 1897 has Bob using a tool that one of his friends was
making. He thought Brownells would sell this. They do not have this one but they have different
one in the catalog. It is kind of spendy, but works for both the Model 97 and the Model 12.
Question:
Took in a 1300 that wouldnt lock up. After trouble shooting found that the action bar was just
by-passing the disconnect assembly. I adjusted the disconnector so the action bar hits square and
now she locks up tight as a drum. Question is the disconnector assembly that weak that over time
they can get worked out of adjustment? Theres not much wear on the disconnector or the action
bar. The action bar was just barely hitting the disconnector assembly and pushing it out of its way.
Hope I explained this good enough.
Answer:
Yes, they can be weak and if they are barely engaging when they leave the factory new then it
doesnt take long before they quit working.
Reply:
Yea, didnt take much to adjust it, sure seems like it could have been a beefier piece of stock they
made them out of. I guess thats the kind of thing that will keep us guys going. Thanks again for
your input, I learn something every time I get a new job and when I need reassurance it sure is
nice to be able to get your opinion. Your help is appreciated by all.
Question:
Working on an early model Win 1400 16 ga. Not a Mark II. Two problems, 1st is I cant seem to
locate an extractor in 16 ga. Numrich has 20 ga and 12 ga only and Jack First doesnt have any..
Will a 12ga extractor work? Or can I repair the existing one. There is not much left to work with
however. Can I build the hook up and file to work? - How? I was thinking to build it up with a
wire welder and file it to fit, any ideas? 2nd. shot gun refuses to cycle fully. It will only open approximately 1/2 way. Ive taken care not to oil the piston or tube. Pistons installed properly, no
pitting on the piston or in the tube. Actions clean. Not like a Remington where you can replace a
ring any suggestions??? Or has this ole girl reached the end? I hate to be beat and tell this customer its time to retire this ole girl he truly loves his rabbit gun.
Answer:
I believe the 12 ga extractor will work. You can weld it up and refit it, be sure to heat treat. I
would weld it up with TIG and reshape it. As far as cycling, how do you know it only cycles half
way if the extractor is broken? Anyway polish the chamber, fit and install extractor, make sure
the cartridge rim is small enough to fit thru the locking lugs on the barrel. Sometimes these lugs
are over sized and the case will drag on them when it the bolt opens and slow down the bolt and
short cycle. Last but not least be aware parts are obsolete and harder to come by. Make sure your
customer is aware of this and he should be looking for a new shot gun, or another one like this
for spare parts.
Question:
Switching the safety on a Remington 870 from right to left hand. I think I can do it, just thought
Id ask before, Never done one before. This one has a pin that holds the spring and detent ball in
the housing. The hole for the spring and detent ball is on the right side. Looks like all I have to do
is drill a hole straight down on the left side and reassemble. Do I have to plug the original hole on
the right? Doesnt look to me like it is necessary.
Answer:
Usually we do plug the hole to prevent any problems from the drill wandering and they seem too
on the Rem trigger groups. Give it a try and let us know how it works for you.
Reply:
I see why you plug the hole, the original hole is just over center of the housing. When you drill
the new hole you are drilling just over the edge of the old hole. What do you plug the old hole
with? Cant I just fill the old hole with good epoxy?
Answer:
You will want to make it out of aluminum and glue it in or rivet it in or tap and thread it so it
stays in place and wont rotate when you are working with it.
Reply:
Received my round alum stock. Filled the old whole and drilled the new hole on drill press. I see
what you mean about the drill bit wanting to walk. Next time I think Ill try center punching before drilling. Turned out excellent.
Answer:
If you use a center drill of the appropriate size it will not walk. - Jack
Question:
Have a Win Model 12 that the primary cartridge stop is out of adjustment. When its locked up
and you try to load it the cartridge stop is open so it wont hold the shells. This is the first 12 I had
to work on. I dont have the Armorers course and there was nothing in the shotgun course. Can
you point me in the right direction? Thanks Gregg
Answer:
OK I am not being a smart ass when I ask this so please do not get offended. What is the primary cartridge stop? Bob really likes it when I make you guys think. OK enough of that, what do
the shells do that indicate to you the primary cartridge stop is out of adjustment? I will tell you
that the primary cartridge stop is two different parts and they both do and are known for other
things. Let me know what the shells are doing and how the gun is malfunctioning. Ken
Reply:
OK, I cant load the gun. When I push the shell in the mag tube it comes right back out at you.
The cartridge stop wont hold the shell. If I cycle the gun slow I can see the cartridge stop move
over so then it would stop the shell in the mag tube. When the gun is locked up the cartridge
stop is over toward the receiver. So its the cartridge stop on the left side when you hold the gun
in shooting position. Hope this helps. Seems like it is just out of adjustment. Thanks again Gregg
Answer:
Is this a Model 12 or a Model 1200??????? The model 12 uses the bottom of the bolt and the carrier as the primary cartridge stop. If you have a model 1200 then the cartridge stops are on the
trigger group.
Reply:
12 the older one. I see the cartridge stop on the bottom of the bolt. It must just be wore down so
it wont stop the shell. Can this be built up with TIG or gas and refitted? Or will the bolt have to
be re-heat treated? I remember no welding on receivers. Or should I see if I can find a bolt? Sorry
about the brain fade, I was looking at the cartridge stop on the side of the receiver and just was
so sure it wasnt working. Thanks again
Answer:
No worry we all have brain freeze. Anyway is the shell coming over the cartridge stop and ALL
the way onto the carrier? If yes, then you can TIG weld this up and refit it. Weld slow so you dont
heat it too much, and when you are dressing it down to fit it go slow as well. Glad we got this
figured out.
Reply:
Thanks Ken, I think we got her now.
Question:
Can someone tell me the order in which the rubber O ring is placed on the magazine tube when
reassembling the 1187 12GA? Im not sure if its; last, first, or in between when putting everything
back on the tube. Unfortunately the Remington Schematic doesnt show the order and the owner
brought me the gun disassembled.
Answer:
Action bar with inertia sleeve first (I know you know that) then the piston assembly, then the o
ring, then the barrel, then the gas cylinder collar goes on the barrel lug, then the forearm, etc.
Question:
Does anyone have any ideas about where to find a Fox Model B takedown lever with a lock
plunger and spring. I know its a bit like asking for ice water in the nether regions but its my
father-in-laws and I would like to fix it for him.
Answer:
Try the usual suspects- Gun Parts (Numrich) - Jack First - E-bay etc etc. I would wish you luck but
who likes their father in law anyway?
Reply:
Yeah, I know what you mean about the father-in-law. But when hes leaving your wife several
million you learn to like him a lot!!
Answer:
Well in that case I am sure I can fix it for him, that way maybe he will leave my wife something.
Im not greedy. If youre getting millions I can settle for a couple hundred thou.
Reply:
Believe me, Im doing everything I can to not get on his bad side! Have found everything but the
lock plunger spring. Sure would be nice if you had one lying around or knew a substitute!
By the way, The .45 works great! Have trigger pull down to 3lb 1 oz average. Have shot about a
box of shells with no jam, misfire, or follow down. I have fitted a graphite trigger, Wilson spring,
and new stainless grip safety. Also have aftermarket clip that always wanted to fall out. Have
fixed that problem. The extractor works wonderfully. Before I worked on it, the shell casing
would fall in about a ten foot radius in all directions and at least one out of every clip would hit
the shooter somewhere on the head. Now all the shells are in a 3 foot circle behind the shooters
right foot! Cant wait to see what happens when I relieve the ejection port!
Anyway, Thanks, you guys are GREAT. I could not be happier with the course, or the help.
Answer:
Is that the slide lock plunger spring? If so the Smith and Wesson hammer nose (firing pin) spring
will work in a pinch. Glad the .45 is doing well they are great guns we love em.
Question:
I have been working on a Remington Mod. 11 (Browning Auto 5 look-alike) 12 Ga., 2 3/4 for
some time now, and I cant get it to cycle hard enough to eject Winchester A-A trap loads. Ive
polished everything up and am using Brownells Action Lube. Ive moved the friction ring to the
bottom and even tried removing it altogether with no luck. Do you have any suggestions? Im out
of ideas on this one.
Answer:
Maybe I can help, till master Ken can reply. Is the ring on the barrel were the friction ring and
recoil spring seat look bent and dragging on the recoil spring tube and binding? Also make sure
the extractor on the bolt face has good spring tension to get a good grip on the cartridge. It also
keeps it against the barrel extension til the ejector grabs the rim of the cartridge and throws it
out. The A5 and Savage have the extractor on the bolt face. Also check the cartridge stop timing
and make sure that there is a one- eighth gap at the bolt face and ejector after you pull the bolt
back and let it go to remove any play. Also remember to check the condition of the micarta buffer that goes at the back of the receiver on the Remington Mod 11. Hope this helps some; I have
seven Model 11s in different gauges.
Answer:
OK as Mark said check the barrel ring to make sure it did not get bent. Is the barrel ring marking
up the magazine tube?? Polish the magazine tube lengthwise, go thru the different grits of sand
paper start with 240 and go to 400. If you have already done this then polish with 600 grit, then
buff the mag tube. Now when you say hard enough to cycle the loads we will assume that the action remains closed on the MT cartridge, otherwise the problem is not a cycling issue.
Let us know.
10
Question:
I recently purchased an 870 Express from which I plan to build a defense gun. I have already
bought a two shell extension tube and a short barrel. The factory tube has two dimples which
would prevent the extras shells from being loaded. I can grind away the dimples, but then if
I want to convert the gun back to a standard configuration for hunting or whatever then the
spring retention cap wont work as it needs those dimples to hold itself and the magazine tube
spring in place. Any ideas on how to remedy the situation so the gun can have a Jekyll and Hyde
personality? Thanks,
Answer:
You can pound the dimples flat by making a magazine plug to fit and drive into the magazine
that will swage the dimples out and you can then tap on the outside of the magazine and clean
up the area where the dimples were then get the old style magazine spring retainer to retain the
mag spring. Then you can install a spring loaded detent in the barrel lug like the original 870s
used to have. Seems like a lot of work but it really isnt. This way the magazine extension will
work fine. Ken
PS, some of the barrels come with the detent in the barrel lug as well as the new style with the
magazine spring retainer acting as the detent.
Reply:
Thanks for the advice. I am not sure I know what you mean by the barrel lug. But Ill get started
banging out the dimples. Ill have to do that sooner or later anyway. Thanks again.
Question:
I am looking for information on how twist Damascus barrels were made. Surely there is some
information out there somewhere since so many old shotgun barrels were made this way. But, I
havent been able to find anything that describes the process used by the manufacturers. Does
anyone know where I can find a book describing the making of these barrels, patent office documents, factory process papers, etc.?
Answer:
I dont know if this is what you want, but patent 5,185,044 by Pendray and Verhoeven in 1993
outlines a method for making Damascus steel for swords. It references many works on Damascus steel as well. In the reading I did on it, it makes me wonder if barrels were never really true
Damascus steel, but pattern welded Damascus steel instead. They claimed the method for making
Damascus was lost 200 years ago, obviously pre-dating the making of most shotguns we still see
around. Its a little confusing, but if the barrels were pattern welded instead, it may help you get
the answers you need. Wikipedia has a short interesting entry on pattern welding that sounds
much more likely to be the way a barrel could be made and looks like Damascus, in fact referred
to as pattern welded Damascus. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pattern_welding
http://damascus.free.fr/f_damas/f_quest/steel.htm - talks about pattern welded Damascus steelhttp://www.crandart.co.uk/damasteel.htm - these guys make 3 different kinds of Damascus steel,
and make just damn near anything you want out of it. Yes, even a golf club.
11
Reply:
It is pattern welded Damascus steel barrels that I am looking for information on. I know Al Pendray and the Damascus that he got the patent on is wootz Damascus. Wootz Damascus gets its
pattern from the carbide lattice in the steel. The barrels that I have seen were all pattern welded
Damascus.
I am a custom knife maker besides being a gunsmith. I make my own pattern welded Damascus
steel for my knife blades, so I am familiar with the process of making the steel. My main question
here is, how exactly did they shape the steel into a barrel? I have heard that the strips of steel
were wound around a mandrel and forged welded on the mandrel. Having experience with welding Damascus, I see some issues with this process working properly. In looking at pattern welded
Damascus barrels, I can see the patterning of the Damascus strips and I know how to make Damascus in that pattern. Im just not sure how they welded the Damascus strips into a barrel. Im
sure that I could figure something out myself, but I would like to see how it was done by someone else and I am surprised that there isnt more information on the process out there.
The reason that I am interested in this is because I want to make a knife with a flintlock gun attached to it. There were some of these knife/gun combination pieces made throughout history.
The gun will be made entirely out of Damascus, with different patterns used for the lock work
and the barrel. The knife blade will also be Damascus.
Question:
Picked up an old Janssen side by side rabbit ears 12 ga. Going to do a little learning with it. It has
Damascus barrels and I was wondering if its possible to sleeve or reline the barrels to a smaller
gauge, so it could be useable with todays cartridges. Never seen any info on this and none of my
friends or local smiths have any knowledge. I figured going to the best source (you guys) might
enlighten me some. Thanks in advance for the trouble of reading this.
Answer:
Yeah you can fabricate sleeves for those and it doesnt have to be shotgun barrels. You could fabricate sleeves out of rifled barrels and chamber to low pressure cartridges.
Question:
How do you reinstall the strikers on an old Savage 311 type sxs shotgun? There must be a special
tool for this trick. The springs go in against the auto cockers, and now the fun begins. I have tried
lots of ways but still cant get them in enough to start the pins, HELP!!
Thanks again
Answer:
OK first clamp the receiver in a vice with the firing pins pointed down and the tangs up. Now
install the cocking lever and its spring and start the hammer pivot pin and get it thru one side and
thru the cocking lever. Now install the mainspring and plunger. Then lay the hammer in position
on top of the mainspring plunger.
With a screw driver that fits the full cock notch press the hammer down into place.......more or
less. Then while the hammer is pressed down from the outside of the gun start a punch that is a
12
bit smaller than the pivot pin. The punch will hold the hammer compressed most of the way then
using the punch to pry and move the hammer start the hammer pivot pin and then drive it all the
way in. Now drive the hammer pivot pin thru the hammer and out the receiver and repeat the
process for the other hammer. Good luck. Once you have done a couple you will find what works
best for you and you will see that the 311 really isnt that hard to reassemble.
Reply:
In Brownells Gun Kinks I, you will find the dimensions of a tool and how to use it to install the 311
hammers. I have made an installation pin with a tapered, hardened point out of a piece of 1/2
round stock turned to the pin size and 1 1/2 times the length of the original pin. The Brownells
tool leaves you a little short of perfect alignment so the tapered end allows you to line up the
holes as you go through side to side adding the parts as you go. I then drive the tool back out using the original pin, keeping back pressure as you go thru each joint. I plan to make a second one
of these tools to be able to align all of the sears and sear springs at the same time. Thus giving me
a means to test all of the parts before I put the pins back in.
Question:
I was thinking about porting my wifes slug gun for her. Its a Browning gold 20ga with a rifled
slug barrel. Would this cause a feeding problem with it since its gas operated? And can it be done
on a mill with an indexing head. Is there any kind of pattern to use or do the factories just try to
make it look fancy? Im a machinist and Im taking the master course so Im comfortable doing
the work I just dont want to ruin the barrel. Thanks for any help.
Answer:
You can port with the indexing head. Most of the factories just make it look good. You will not
want to angle the holes back as they will fill with lead and debris when fired. It should not cause
any feeding problems as the gas system is well before the end of the barrel.
Question:
I have an SKB/Ithaca S/S shotgun that has a problem. The lug that holds the forearm in place has
come out of the barrels. It is not broken, just came out. I am just getting started in gunsmithing
and am not sure I want to try this one. If any of you guys have experience silver soldering or have
any advice just let me know.
Answer:
Weeellllll, we would turn that job down. To get the lug to stay attached under the stress of shooting it would have to be silver soldered in place and not soft soldered. That means the barrels must
be heated red hot for the solder to take. So the ribs would want to come apart, the heat-treat in
the barrel would be altered and you would end up with hard and soft spots in the barrels, so that
is a no-no.
Question:
Anyone know where I can get a Full choke for a Remington 1187 28 ga? Friend says he has all
the chokes, extra modified etc., but is looking for a full choke. Ive seen some that claim to be
13
interchangeable with 1100s, but Im still real new to this trade. Dont really know what to advise
at this point. Any help will be greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance.
Answer:
First we-you need to know what kind of chokes are in the shotgun now?? Are they factory or
aftermarket? Once you know that go to the source.
Reply:
Sorry I didnt get back sooner, been real busy. There are no chokes in the gun; he has separate
screw-in chokes now. Says he has all he could get, but wants a full choke. Apparently the extra modified is not good enough for him, he wants tighter. Ive checked the Remington site and
googled for a full with no real success. Thought maybe you guys might have some ideas.
Answer:
I understand that the barrel is threaded to accept chokes, but I wasnt sure if it was factory choke
tubes or some aftermarket type. I will look and see what I can find at the shop, and let you know
if we have any FACTORY screw in chokes for the 28ga full. Ken
Reply:
Thanks, Im sure any chokes he bought would be factory. I checked the Remington products site
and they dont list anything as a full choke. Not sure if it can handle one or what the deal is. Emails havent been answered.
Question:
I have two Belgium built Browning shotguns and the wood needs attention. Sometimes I know
that when they are old and rare they should be left alone. 1.) Should I strip them and with what?
2.) Should I finish them with oil or some sort of clear?
Answer:
Well that depends on what you want to accomplish? Do you want to restore them to factory new
condition? Do you want to touch them up and continue to use them? Is this for you or a customer? What kind of condition are they in now? Are they for show or shooting?
Reply:
These are mine but I dont want to ruin the value of them. I do shoot these once in awhile but
just for fun as I have plenty of others for the job.
Answer:
If you dont want to decrease the value do not refinish at all. Keep them clean and dry.
Question:
I have an 11-87 that has a lot of peening right behind the locking lug groove on the barrel extension and the back of the receiver, I remember in the course it might be head space. I do not have
a no-go gauge for 12 but I can use a good 12 gauge from federal and put a 20 thousand shim behind it and it will close on that. This gun came in for a clean job and it looks to have a lot of wear
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on it from duck hunting in the pond!! Is that accurate enough the way I checked the headspace
on this gun?
Answer:
That is the correct way to check headspace, and it sounds like you have some. But you say the
peening is behind the locking surface, and the receiver. That does not sound like headspace. The
peening behind the locking recess in the barrel extension is the gun unlocking and the locking
block bouncing back up when the bolt is on its rearward travel. Check to see that the gun has all
the correct gas system parts and that they are installed correctly, then check the receiver where
the barrel slides in and stops. If the receiver extends down below the barrel the bolt can hit this
when it is moving to the rear and cause the various vibrations and jumps and bumps that cause all
kinds of problems.
Question:
Im working on the Shotguns course. In the doubles section, there are a couple of questions with
the words decrease the sear angle. I feel that I understand positive and negative sear/hammer
relationships really well. However, Im unclear what the reference point is for the sear angle in
the case of an increase or decrease. Increase or decrease sear angle is a relative measurement in
relation to something else, unlike positive or negative, which is absolute - it either is or isnt. My
first instinct is to think a decrease makes something more negative, but depending on the reference point to measure the angle, a decreased sear angle could make a relationship positive or
negative in a system, so there is no reference point that I can determine. If I draw a line from the
sear axis intersecting the sear surface, there are four angles. Obviously two increase and two decrease offsetting amounts with a change in the surface angle. Maybe the angle refers to a different line?
Is there any clarification for this available or is it a take your best shot proposition? Maybe I
missed this in the DVDs and this is a dumb question! If so, just let me know. Thanks for any feedback. Despite occasional brain cramps, Im really enjoying the course!
Answer:
It is not a dumb question. I do not have the tests, so what I would like is if you would give me the
question and the answers. I can take a guess at what Bob was looking for and to decrease the
sear angle is make it less positive. You can have a positive sear angle and if you decrease it, it can
remain positive just not as positive as it was. BUT please give me the question and answers so we
can go over them.
Reply:
You confirmed my instinct about the meaning was probably correct. The way the questions/answers were written may have thrown me off. When I see angle I revert to geometry class and
start looking for lines to measure against instead of positive/negative engagement, especially
when some answers state it one way and some the other.
#80. Which of the answers might cure this doubling problem. The gun has double triggers and it
frequently doubles when the front trigger is pulled first. The trigger pull of the front trigger is
five pounds, the trigger pull of the rear trigger is one pound. Trigger travel before the hammer
falls is 1/4 on both triggers. The gun doubles with anyone who shoots it.
a. bend the left (rear) sear tail up
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b. make the left (rear) hammer notch positive

c. decrease the angle of the sear
d. install a stronger spring for the left sear
e. bend the front trigger to the right and the rear trigger to the left
#81.Which of the following might cure the doubling problem in this A&D type shotgun? The gun
doubles only when the rear trigger is pulled first. The trigger pull weight is 3 lbs. for the front
trigger and 4 lbs for the rear trigger. Trigger travel before the hammer falls is 1/32 front trigger
and 1/4 rear trigger. Choose the correct answers.
a. bend the left sear tail up
b. bend the right sear tail up
c. decrease the angle of the right sear and/or hammer notch
d. file some off the front trigger so that there is more clearance between the front trigger and
the right sear tail
e. bend the right sear tail down
Answer:
OK got the questions and the answers, what would you answer for #80 and #81 and why? Let me
know and we will go over it. I know this is time consuming but I am not supposed to just give out
the answers, I am to help you guys figure it out, and I know you will. Ken
Reply:
#80. I would choose b: because it will possibly cure a negative notch and increase trigger pull, and
d: because it would also increase trigger pull and possibly cure a weakened spring. I would NOT
choose a: because it would further increase the travel, which is okay now, c: because the way I
understand it now this would make it less positive and will make the situation worse, not better,
or e: because the gun doubles for everyone and likely not a trigger finger problem so bending
triggers is unnecessary.
#81. I would choose b: because the trigger travel is very short and more space between the trigger and sear could help in this situation, and d: for the same reason as b. I would NOT choose a:
because the rear trigger doesnt have a doubling problem and the travel is okay, c: because that
would make the situation worse by making the engagement less positive, or e: because bending
the sear tail down would likely make the problem much worse, not better.
One of the things that threw me off in the 81 answers was that it apparently didnt include an
option to increase the front trigger pull from 3 lbs. That is, still assuming a decrease in sear and/or
hammer notch angle means to make it less positive.
Answer:
Very good, I like the way you reasoned it out. I believe you have got it.
Question:
Im restocking a Spanish 20ga sxs. and noticed the L/H bbl has a small dent on the outside edge
about mid bbl. Its a few thousandths deep and a 1/4 long. Id like to fix it for the owner if I can
do it with out too much time. Theres gotta be a trick I can use to raise the dent with out a hyWARNING: This is provided as general information only. Situations may vary. Consult a professional gunsmith regarding questions for
16
draulic dent removal tool. I have a lathe and can turn out an iron if needed. Just looking for a
little guidance
Answer:
Can make a plug to fit the bore if the dent isnt in the choke area. Be careful as you push the plug
in, and lightly tap the dented area as the plug reaches that spot.
Question:
Warren sent AGI this question and I thought it and the answer would have some value to the
trade. - Jack
Subject: Remington 870 Armorers Course, DVD
Hi,
I commend the speed of your service, very fast. The DVD is clear and well illustrated. However, it is
somewhat behind current production and needs to be updated to include the express models.
1. Shell follower and magazine spring retainer are retained by J slots. Prizing them out as illustrated will cause damage.
2. Express models do not receive the attention given to a Wingmaster, especially in the deburr/
chamfer arena. A rather common failure mode arises from battering that peans the shell head
contour bore over a shell head, locking the shell in place. This usually involves a fired shell stuck in
the barrel and a jammed action that must be disassembled to clear. Until the bolt is removed and
the primer examined, the gun must be assumed to be loaded with a live round.
3. Many of the current models now use a molded plastic trigger plate. I dont know the material, but even expensive composite materials go through a second B-stage around 300 deg F. I
would suspect warpage or damage if dried in a 350 deg oven after cleaning. Of course the Wingmaster and Police models still use the aluminum trigger plate and are safe at that temperature.
4. QUESTION;
I bought a new 12 ga express in 95 and another for my son-in-law in 2005. The shell latches fell
out of each of them during initial disassembly. They showed no indication of any factory attempt
to stake them in place. Your DVD mentions that unstaked assembly is very difficult, I certainly
agree. It was difficult and time consuming. (btw, they are staked in place now)
My question is this: factory volume rates certainly would not allow for the time delay I experienced on the first disassembly. Even though this is a personal sample of only two shotguns and
several stories from others I see a trend indicating that the factory has an assembly method that is
faster than a staking operation. What method do they use?
Thank you
Warren
Dear Warren,
Thank you for the compliment on the DVD and our staffs service. Let me see if I can address your
questions one at a time; the DVDs are never going to keep up with model changes and introductions. They happen too fast and the cost would be enormous to re-do many of our courses on an
17
annual basis. The changes during a model run are usually relatively minor and the basic action
and operation do not change. As Bob says in his pro gunsmithing videos and also in the Inside
Bobs Head videos, a competent gunsmith should be able to look at the gun in his hand and
observe how it functions and how it goes together and comes apart. He goes over his thought
process and the way he attacks these problems. We NEVER expect someone to watch one of our
courses and blindly follow the directions without regard to the mechanism actually in his hand.
Thats why there is the disclaimer at the beginning of each tape and DVD which says if you dont
have the expertise and competence to work on these weapons, take them to a competent gunsmith like, maybe, you for example.
1. See above. You looked before you pried, we have to assume a certain level of competence in
our customers or they would all start, This is a screwdriver..
2. You are absolutely correct about the Express vs. Wingmaster. Remington wanted to compete
with Mossberg and some others with a less expensive gun. AS far as the chamber peening goes,
the consensus among our staff is that it is usually caused by the owner continually allowing the
bolt to slam shut on an empty chamber. Tell em Dont. The fix of the peened chamber is not
included because you need to run a reamer in to the chamber to clean it up and that is beyond
the scope of the Armorers programs. If they want to know this stuff, we have the Professional
Gunsmith courses.
3. Bob NEVER says to dry these parts at 350 degrees in the oven. He says 200-250 degrees. Of
course, one should NEVER put plastic/nylon/Delrin etc. parts in an oven. You will never see him
doing so.
4. According to our experts, the best way to reassemble with unstaked shell latches is as follows;
If you use the rear of the trigger plate to hold the latches in, you can slide the trigger plate rearward and up into position. Gently nudge the action bar lock in so as not to mar the receiver as
you maneuver the trigger plate into position. According to Remington, the shell latches are still
supposed to be staked; apparently the assembler was having a bad day. Re-staking is warrantyable.
Thanks for your questions Warren, I hope this helps and clarifies our positions. - Jack
Question:
I have a Winchester 97 - 12g - Takedown Model. Can I convert this to a solid non takedown gun?
I have ordered your DVD on the model 97 Winchester. Does it cover what I have asked?
Answer:
I didnt make the 97 video nor have I viewed it, but changing a takedown into a non-takedown is
simple. You can use glue, LocTite, solder, and even welding where it is not heat sensitive, to keep
the two halves in one piece. Hope this answers your question if not please ask more and we will
keep at it until your questions are answered.
Question:
Does anybody know of a source for the mag throats for a Win 1400? I think I called every source
known, well known to me. Thanks for any help.
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Answer:
Did you give Winchester a try? I know that sounds obvious but often people forget to try the
factory. See if they know who bought the last of theirs if they are out of stock or are not making
that part any longer. Keep us informed please, Ken.
Reply:
No, I was told during several conversations that Win. had discontinued them and they were drying up. One source said their R&D was trying to make them out of aluminum, I am a little skeptical about pounding aluminum into aluminum, one of the two must loose the battle and give way
for the other and I really dont want that to be my customers receiver. Although if the throat was
made a slip fit (out of aluminum) maybe it could be epoxied or Loctited in place???? Hmm I might
have to get out on that mill and see. PS If Win. did actually quit making them, I wonder what did
they do with the mold?
Answer:
Who knows what they do with the molds. If they still have it they probably have some sort of patent or some restriction on the use of said mold. Remember if the old gun wears out.....and cannot
be readily fixed the customer has to buy a NEW gun. (Or at least new to them). Therefore plastic
and aluminum are great for guns to be made out of.
Question:
My boy has a Winchester 140. I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT TROUBLE out of this gun .Every one I
have talked to, says this is the lemon of the crop. Does every one have trouble with this model?
Answer:
It depends on what you mean by trouble. They have a number of problems. They are not the best
shotgun in the world, because they have some design flaws that are hard to overcome. Sorry,
what kind of problems are you having with your sons shotgun? Ken
Reply:
It started when a shell would get jammed in behind shell that didnt extract, so I got new extractors then a new bolt , piston was sticking couldnt get a piston got new magazine tube and spring
,now the elevator wont raise shell up.
Answer:
Well it sounds like you have several problems all a once. The problem you have now sounds like
the magazine and magazine throat are not installed correctly. Make sure it is positioned correctly
and seated to the correct depth. You might want to make sure the carrier dog is not the problem.
Question:
How is it determined how many holes to drill and what angle to drill them when porting a shotgun barrel? How much can this reduce recoil? What other modifications can be made to reduce
recoil? Any tips and tricks are appreciated!
19
Answer:
Take a look at what Mag-na-Port does to shotgun barrels, it will give you some excellent ideas.
Brownells sells a recoil reducer that fits in the buttstock to reduce recoil on pumps.
Reply:
The Mag-na-Port site was an eye-opener. I have looked in Brownells at the spring and piston as
well as the mercury filled recoil reducers. Anyone out there with any experience using these? I am
also exploring back boring. Again, anyone out there with experience doing this?
Answer:
The mercury recoil reducers do work when installed correctly. We have put in quite a few. Back
boring does reduce recoil BUT it thins the barrel where the pressure is the highest. Many of the
factories will pull the warranty status of companies that do this as the barrel is weaker after the
back boring is completed. Porting the barrel actually reduces muzzle jump more than reducing
recoil.
Reply:
Thanks for the info on that Ken, much appreciated. Any tips on installation of the mercury units?
Answer:
Follow the directions that are supplied with the tubes themselves. If there are none, what you
want to do is drill a hole that is the size of the mercury tube only as deep as the tube is long, so
the recoil pad holds the tube in place. You do not want the tube itself to slide back and forth in
the stock. The mercury in the tube is supposed to slosh back and forth. Be sure to install the tube
with the end that is threaded to the rear so you can thread in a bolt and pull it out if you should
want to remove it. We have received many that are tight in the stock like they should be, but the
tapped hole for removing it is inside and there is no way to pull the tube out. So we have to do
a lot of stock modifications to remove the tube, but I digress. Many of the tubes fit the existing
stock bolt hole in the stock so use it, just be sure the tube is held to the rear against the recoil
pad. If you are drilling a new hole then I suggest you follow the bottom of the stock, the toe
line. This way when the gun is pointed up the mercury is at the rear of the tube, as it should be
and if the gun is level or slightly pointed down the mercury is still to the rear of the tube where
it should be. Now if you are installing a tube in one of the hollow plastic stocks you will have to
create supports for the mercury tube to be positioned. I have used wooden dowels and a little
bit of everything else for this. I end by using Acraglas gel to hold the tube in place at the rear of
the stock. Dont glue in your stock bolt. Once you see a mercury tube and a stock you will see it is
much easier to do than all this sounds. Good luck
Question:
Have a customer who would like to remove the Cutts Compensator from his Browning A-5 and
replace it with screw in chokes. How does this unit attach? I cannot seem to see how they were
attached to the barrel. I have some very good sources for machining and am thinking I may have
to cut off the end of the barrel and fit it with an extension. Comments PLEASE!!!!!
Answer:
Most of the Cutts Compensators style devices that I put on (Poly Chokes, we called them poly
pukes) were either soft soldered on or epoxied on. You will have to use heat (propane torch) to
20
remove it. You need to check with Brownells or some of the after market companies that provide
chokes and installation tools. Best, Gene
Reply:
Gene is correct for most choke devises, BUT Gene is MUCH younger than me and has never installed a Cutts. If your Cutts was correctly installed the end of the barrel was turned down slightly
and the adapter was SILVER BRAZED ON. My advice: Cut the Cutts off right at the joint and recrown the barrel
Question:
Have run into a dead-end trying to find a new barrel for a friend of mines shotgun. I cannot find
any info on this particular shotgun. On the left side of the receiver it is stamped Foremost Mod.
6870 Series A, but under that it says Savage Arms. I have tried to research this shotgun in some of
my literature but have not found anything, even under Sears, Montgomery Ward or J.C Pennies.
Schematically it looks like a Savage Mod. 30, D,E,F,H only with a fluted forearm as opposed to the
ribbed. I am looking for a replacement 30, vent rib barrel with a full choke for it. I know I can
get this barrel through Numrich, for the Savage Arms 30 series, however this name of Foremost
Mod. 6870 Series A has dumbfounded me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Answer:
According to my book from Jack First, Foremost is a Penneys Model and if it is 6870 it matches
with Savage 30 or Springfield 67H. If it is 6870H it matches with Savage 30H. Hope this helps.
Reply:
A barrel from a Savage Mod. 30 or 67 will fit. BUT, there are gobs of variations. My suggestion:
Get a barrel and then make it fit. You may have slight diameter variations and positions for the
lug but they can all be easily altered.
Question:
I have an Auto 5 in my shop with this problem. The trigger is hard to pull. I checked for worn or
broken parts, but all parts look good. I found the safety bar by the trigger sear is not releasing
because the bolt is not going forward enough to trip the trigger release. I unscrewed the forearm nut a couple of notches and the bolt and barrel moved forward and trigger pulled was easy
again. Is this a safety to keep the gun from firing if the forearm is too tight so that it wont crack
it? Thanks for your help.
Answer:
Id look at the fore end wood. Sounds like you have a problem there with the inletting either being damaged or crushed.
Reply:
That is an internal safety to keep the firearm from firing before it is locked up. Look to see if
the locking block is engaging the full distance. Also look to see that the forearm is not new or a
replacement it may need to be fit so the barrel returns forward to its correct position. DO NOT
BACK THE MAG CAP OFF AND SHOOT IT. THAT IS A SURE WAY TO BREAK/SPLIT/CRACK THE FOREARM.
21
Question:
I have an A-500 that hangs up when the bolt is pulled to the rear. If the trigger group is removed
the bolt moves freely. I have put a new trigger group in the gun and it does the same thing. The
gun is well worn to the degree that the receiver is cracked on both sides at the butt stock. I also
noticed it has no buffer at the back of the bolt. What could make the bolt hang to the rear?
Answer:
Does your gun have the carrier spring in the trigger group, or is it separate? The one Im working
on wont allow the bolt to go back to battery without some assistance after you press the carrier
latch. I bet if we solve one of these, well solve both.
Reply:
I know the gun needs to be retired but I want to find the problem first. I put a homemade buffer
in and it does help the problem.
Thanks for your help,
Answer:
Ted It sounds as though the bolt has pounded the receiver in such a way as to allow the bolt carrier to sit canted when the pressure from the hammer is pushing it up. Inspect the rails where the
bolt fits when it is all the way back, I suspect you will see it is disrupted here. The A-500 has a buffer while the A-5 does not.
Question:
Customer brought in a Winchester Model 50 in a bag. Anybody have assembly instructions for
one of these?
Answer:
Go to e-GunParts.com. They have an exploded view that gives one a good reference.
Answer:
The buffer position of the 50 &59 is critical. Before you shoot the gun after assembling it, let me
know how you adjusted the buffer.
22
Part 2
Rifles
23
Question:
I am working on a Rossi model 62 slide action 22 (it is a clone of the Winchester 62) and I need
to remove the barrel. I have removed the pin and light tapping will not remove it. My question
is whether the barrel is threaded or is it pressed in? Are most rim fire barrels pressed in and how
tight are they normally? Are there any designs of barrel vises and receiver wrenches available
from AGI? PS; I have hardened my first piece of steel (the swaging tool for the 30-30 barrel) once
again thanks for all you guys and AGI do.
Answer:
.22 barrels are held in by a multitude of methods, pressed, pinned, screwed, glued, knurled and
pushed in, so you will just have to figure out which way the barrel is installed in which gun you
have. The Rossi you have is screwed in. Clamp the barrel in your barrel vice, then take a pistol
wrench or a wrench that clamps flat on both sides, clamp the receiver up front by the barrel and
unscrew the barrel; they are not on tightUSUALLY. You may want to make an insert that will
keep the receiver from crushing as you know it is split when you take the back half off.
Question:
I am building a sporterized Mauser K98 in 9.3 x 62. Why? Because I want an African (entry level)
gun! It will not be used for hunting.
I want to use a low power scope on it and need to drill and tap the receiver for the bases.
1). What is the best scope mount setup for this application? Note: New target profile barrel with
no fixed sights on CZECH K98 action from WWII.
2). What is the acceptable way to drill and tap the receiver with its hardened surface?
3). Heating the receiver even locally at the screw hole has me concerned about screwing up the
heat treat of the rest of the receiver, especially in the lug area on the front ring. Is there a way to
use Carbide tool like a carbide drill and a regular tap?
Answer:
Well that is a tall order especially since much of what you want to know is purely up to you and
your likes and dislikes. The best scope mount setup is what you like the best or can afford. Since
the barrel wont have sights you really dont need a base/ring combo that will detach. I would
still look at the Talley bases and rings; I use them regularly and really like them. I also like the
Conetrol bases and rings and a similar set up to the Conetrol is the S&K bases and rings. What is
great about both of these is that the rings are very streamlined and there is nothing to snag on
anything. They are all steel which I like and both the front and rear ring hold the scope and take
the recoil, unlike the Leupold and Redfield style where only the front ring holds the scope on
the rifle. Also with the S&K and Conetrol rings both the front and rear are windage adjustable.
If weight is a concern the new Talley aluminum light weight mount is great the bottom half of
the ring is also the base and bolts right to the top of the reciever. These are strong and yet light
weight. You can go with the Gunmakers bases from Leupold and make the bases fit your gun specifically, and in that case I would get the Leupold Dual Dovetail, so once again both the front and
the rear rings take the recoil. Last but not least you can check out NECG... that is New England
Custom Guns. They import a lot of high end stuff from Europe and among the things they have is
the classic German claw mounts, GREAT mounts but a lot of work and they are NOT cheap.
As far as drilling and tapping I have never had a really difficult time drilling Mausers. If you are
concerned break the surface with a carbide drill and then go back to the regular drill. You are
24
correct about spot annealing although you only really need to be concerned with the one hole by
the locking lug the other 3 holes wont be a problem.
It sounds like you have a great action and a great project planned. Please keep us all appraised of
your progress and if you have any questions feel free to ask. Also you may want to get the Mauser videos that AGI offers if you dont already have them. This really isnt a shameless promotion
there is a lot of information in all of them. If you decide to get them watch them all completely
before you do any work on your gun.
I really like the 9.3x62 cartridge as well and let me know how it performs.
Reply:
Thanks for the information. I really didnt want to limit your answer. I kind of guessed at your
responses and asked more questions based on those guesses.
I have heard horror stories (all second hand) about breaking drills and taps in Mauser receivers. Is
a center drill hard enough to break the hardened surface or do I need a real carbide drill? But you
say you dont even do that....Just drill with regular bits????? and regular taps????
Thanks for the info. By the way, I super enjoy you and Bob on the Inner Circle monthly videos. I
have several of the AGI courses including the trigger job one. That last one is so informative! I
have been doing trigger jobs the wrong way for nearly 20 years, kind of bumbling through each
one, and with the AGI video all is now crystal clear and the knowledge easily applies to almost
any gun! If I were 20 years younger (already retired!) Id go through your Masters Course of study
but it is hard to justify the cost for pure educational purposes as I am too old to start a business or
go back to work at all. Besides, I dont want to work anymore anyway. I just want the knowledge.
Its a Catch 22!
Answer:
I use regular high speed drills and taps. If you have problems or think you will anneal the area
on the rear bridge for the holes there. You can spot anneal the area of the front receiver for the
front hole as well but dont do it with the barrel in place unless you have done it before and are
confident you wont get things too hot. As far as the rear hole on the front receiver ring you can
use a carbide drill or you can even take a Dremel tool and grind thru the surface case hardening
with a small carbide burr just where you intend to drill and tap.
I am glad you like the Inner Circle stuff, we enjoy teasing each other and doing it for AGI.
Answer:
Remember that the Mausers are just case hardened over mild steel. If you use a carbide center
drill (as I do), stop as soon as you break through the surface and are drilling a full diameter hole.
Go back to a high speed steel drill at this point or you will break your expensive carbide center
drill. We recommend using carbon steel taps because when you break one off in a hole (and you
will!), you can shatter the remnant in the hole with a center punch and pick the pieces out. With
high speed steel, you will have to grind it out with a small Dremel (or Foredom) burr. Jack
Question:
Had one of the local cleaning companies drop off 8 guns that were in a house fire to be cleaned.
The only damage is they smell like smoke. The guy that owns them doesnt clean them either. One
of them is a CVA bolt action muzzle loader. I pulled the bolt out and noticed the breech plug was
25
real dirty. With a tussle I got it out. The bore was even dirtier. I have no idea how long this thing
has been sitting dirty, but its been a while. I cleaned the bore the best I could but it is pitted and
corroded. When I was running the patches through it i could feel the corroded spots. Do you
think this is safe to shoot? Or will it just be possibly inaccurate? Its hard for me to believe how
some people neglect their guns.
Answer:
You dont state how deep the pitting is? In an extreme case of very deep pits it could be dangerous. Most likely it will be fine. Sometimes the pitting causes accuracy problems and sometimes it
doesnt. I have seen some really rough and pitted bores that shot very well.
Reply:
I really dont know how deep the pitting is. But there are some pretty big spots and like I said
when you run the cleaning jag and patch through the bore I can feel the rough spots on the ram
rod. Is there a way to measure the pitting? I dont see how to get in the bore to measure.
Answer:
I dont know how you would measure it either but I figured you could look and tell if the pits are
like holes or just surface pitting. As far as feeling the patch when it goes down the bore you will
feel even slight surface variations or slight rust. If you are worried about the safety of the gun
tie it to an old tire and tie a string to the trigger and pull the trigger from a distance. (Preferably
with something between you and the gun.....car, truck, tree etc.) This sounds like a gag but that is
how we test fire a gun we think might be dangerous, or when we proof a muzzle loader barrel.
Question:
Customer called about rechambering a model 700 Remington in 7 mm Rem. Mag to a 7 STW.
What would need to be done? (open up bolt, rechamber barrel check to see if action is long
enough)
Answer:
The case head is the same size so you wont have to open up bolt face. You will need a reamer as
the STW is longer than the standard magnum. The action is long enough but you may want to install a longer magazine box for the longer shells especially if the customer is going to reload and
seat the bullets out.
Reply:
Thank you Ken. I am sorry about asking a dumb question. I got to thinking and looking in some
books and came up with the right answer. On that same line would it be necessary to take the
barrel out of the action, or could you get the job done with them together?
Answer:
You wouldnt HAVE to pull the barrel off, you could use an extension and turn it by hand but I
would pull the barrel and do it in the lathe. Not a dumb question if you didnt know the answer
or have the material to acquire the correct answer.
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Question:
Have a model 30 JC Higgins that I am working on. The rifle would not extract or eject. Both parts
were beaten up. I replaced them, now when the rifle is fired it extracts, and ejects the spent case.
If I want to extract a live round by using the bolt handle, it appears that the bolt is being pulled
to the right, thus pulling the extractor off the rim of the 22 case. The extractor is a double stacked
claw hook, very sharp, and is fitted correct, the extractor spring is good, and I have full range of
motion of the extractor. If I pull straight back on the bolt handle, no pulling towards the side,
things work better. I need some help, I have lots of hours in trying to solve this. I dont want to let
it beat me.
Answer:
OK, lets see if we can help. I believe that by your description the problem is that the extractor
hook is too far away from the breech face. If memory serves me correctly then the breech face is
recessed for the rim. So the extractor should push the cartridge against the lip opposite of it. If
the extractor hook is too far from the breech face then as the bolt is withdrawn the extractor simply pushes the case over and since the case does not push against the bolt face the extractor lets
go of it and leaves it as you describe. Now if my memory is wrong and it is often, and the breech
face is flat then there has to be something for the extractor to push the cartridge against and if
there is no rim cut in the bolt then there must be an ejector or a guide along the left side of the
gun. If this is the case then the extractor is still not fitted to hold onto the case correctly, it must
hold the case up onto the bolt face. Ken
Question:
Okay...How do you get those pesky Ruger end caps off the pistol grip of their rifles. I assumed
they were screwed in with their logo snapped over the screw but if thats the case, they wont
give up easily. Whats the secret. Please let it not be that they are glued in!
Answer:
There is a screw under the cap according to the diagrams I have.
Question:
I would like to make some deer rifles out of some M48 Mausers, but it is hard to find any gunsmithing info about them. Does anyone really know honest -togoodness gunsmithing facts about
these actions? I have a 98 Mauser (byf 41) that was sent home during WWII by one of my uncles
(barrel and action only, still wrapped in cosmolene at the time he sent it home). How does the
steel of the M48 compare to the better M98s?
I have three M48 actions that seem to be in great shape and was thinking of chambering in 7mm
Mauser, 6.5 Mauser (or Swedish Mauser) and .260 Remington. I would like to know what the quality of steel was used and heat treat info and also, what chamber pressures they can handle.
I am also into the older Ruger M77s w/tang safety (I have 10 of them, one in .300 Win Mag was
my first rifle that I bought about 1980). I have not met anyone who owns and hunts with one that
does not like them, including Craig Boddington. Why does AGI not even have an Armorers course
on them much less, not even talk about them in any of the gunsmithing videos? Are they really
such a great gun that you never have to work on them, or is it because you actually have to be
a craftsman if you do work on them (like working on a Mauser), unlike the simple Rem 700 that
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anyone can work on!!!

Answer:
Wow lots of questions. First the Ruger... if you take the basic gunsmithing courses you will be
able to work on the Ruger M-77. The triggers are basic and the feeding is basic bolt action with
PUSH feed not controlled round feed. They are not complicated. As far as why AGI doesnt have
an Armorers course you would have to ask the management as us gunsmiths they hire just do the
videos we are asked to, and the ones we are the most comfortable doing. AGI has to buy every
video made in quantity and if they dont sell enough it is hard to break even. Call and put in your
vote for a Ruger 77 series Armorers course. Be polite, the ladies answering the phones are great
and will help you the best they can. Now the Mauser questions, the Mitchells Mausers right now
are the shorter Yugo length. They are shorter in the bolt and receiver than the standard 98 so
the cartridges you mentioned will work great in them. You may also want to consider the 7x57
and the .257 Roberts. You ask about heat treat etc. I would first ask how much modifying you are
going to do??? The reason is that if you do a lot of altering and heating the parts as shown in my
Tuning Military Bolt Action Rifles (I focus on the Mausers in that course) you will need to reheat
treat and the heat treat on it to begin with wont matter. The steel used is fine for building guns
on them. Ken
R: I already have all three video sets pertaining to the Mauser as well as the complete course
(bought it for the info, dont need the pedigree!!!) I finished the rifle course about a year ago
and finally sent it in a month or so ago. Did most of the machine shop course test before I even
opened up the videos (grew up working in a machine shop). Going back through now and finishing the rest of the courses, just to say I did so. This is getting to be quite some hobby!!!! Can you
believe I was even told that I own too many guns, I didnt think that was even possible!!!!
As for the M48s, I was thinking of playing around with them to see what I could do as far as trimming some weight off and making a mountain rifle out of one. Ill probably give them to friends
as gifts. Have you worked with M48s yourself? What info do give to the heat treater so that they
know how to heat the parts and to what Rockwell C scale?
Other than being cheap and easy to buy and in large supply, what is your personal opinion of
these actions? Sorry for all the bloviating, but thanks for your help.
Answer:
Making light weights is fun and friends always like free guns so they make great gifts. Play
around with lightening them up, I have done several for customers and a bit for myself. We send
our bolts and actions to Industrial Heat treat in Salt Lake City, they know what they are doing.
Just tell them you want the parts reheat treated and they will do it. As far a using the Yugos I
have built several guns for customers on that action and it works well they are clean and most of
the current ones dont have much if any rust pits. I dont care for the Yugo for myself as I like the
standard length, (although for a mountain rifle the shorter ones would be more desirable). I dont
like adapting the stocks to a shorter action, although, again since I use fiberglass stocks and bed
them it isnt a life or death matter. (Boyds boydsgunstocks.com makes several stocks for the Yugo
M-48 that are the correct length Jack) Another reason I dont care for the shorter action is that
on the left side of the bolt face on each side of the ejector slot the lip tips have been omitted.
The gun doesnt really need these protrusions but l like them it gives more room for the cartridge
to be resting against when the extractor pushes the case against that side of the bolt face. These
may seem like minor issues but like I said this is just my preference, they are good actions and if I
fell into a couple of them I wouldnt hesitate to build a rifle on them.
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Question:
Customer brought in a Mitchell Mauser by ZASTAVA M63 18 carbine. Had one of the new scopes
mounted on the Bbl. and he didnt like it. So, we drilled and tapped, ditched the base and put on
a new 4x32 scope. Looks great except the bolt handle hits the scope about 1/2 way out. How do I
go about bending the bolt handle?
Answer:
There is a couple of ways to lower a bolt. The first and in my opinion the best is to cut off the
original and weld on a new one. This is more attractive than forging, less to clean up and we even
charge less for a weld on job than a forge job. Then there is the forge, get a set of bolt forging
blocks and then heat and forge the handle over into the blocks. Last but not least is simply to
heat it and bend it with a hammer or whatever works. Then clean it up and make sure everything
works.
Reply:
Ken, Would you be able to weld on a new bolt handle? I dont have a welder yet. If so do you
need the whole rifle or will just the bolt do? What will approximate cost be? I know customer will
want some idea of cost.
Answer:
Yeah we weld on bolt handles. The cost will vary by what you want to send and what exactly
you want. If you want to send just the bolt and the knob the customer wants and you will do the
clean up the cost will be the least. If you want us to weld on the bolt handle and dress it down
and polish it and fit it to the gun then the cost will be more.
Question:
A customer bought a used and well worn Remington 700. He simply wants it gone through and
any part that doesnt meet factory specs he wants replaced. Simple enough except that I dont
have the spec to look at. Where can I get a copy of them?
Answer:
Specs on what?? Just go thru and make sure all the safety concerns are covered, headspace, the
manual safety works correctly, the trigger works and is safe, check the chamber for defects, check
the bore. Although not a safety issue you want to check the feeding and the bedding. Once you
are sure it is safe test fire it. Shoot it twice, give one shell to the owner and keep one and log it in
an envelope with all the pertinent info on the envelope, i.e. repair tag number, customer name,
date, make, model and serial number etc. etc. When you test fire it check the extraction and ejection make sure they are adequate.
Question:
I am looking for a bolt carrier for a 742 Woodmaster. I have read that these are no longer in production and parts are hard to find. My son brought me this rifle a few years ago and said Dad,
this gun is broke. It was in about twenty pieces. He has since passed, and Im beginning to explore the art of gunsmithing. I have always enjoyed cleaning and troubleshooting problems, but
now Im ready to begin fixing broken guns. (If its not broke, DONT FIX IT)
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Thanks and sorry for the ramble

Answer:
Hope you can locate one. These are obsolete and when major parts break...like the bolt carrier,
you basically have a parts gun. Sorry for the bad news and you may be able to locate one and
then rebuild this gun to work. We dont even try very hard anymore as the parts are drying up,
We tell the customer that he/she is better off with a new model.
Reply:
Thanks. Ill continue to work on this gun as a project. If it cant be repaired, I cant hurt it. It has
some finish issues I can address and not worry about messing-up someones pride and joy.
Answer:
That is what is great about those kinds of projects, especially when you are starting out. You can
learn a lot especially when you make a mistake, then you can go about fixing it and as you mentioned if you destroy it you havent really hurt anything.
Question:
Have a feeding problem with a Marlin 60, cant get it to load working the charging handle at all.
It goes way right most of the time but also way left sometimes. I believe this one to be the newer
style as the ejector is the carrier spring. Bob says in the tape that if you have feeding problems to
replace the feed throat. He seems to talk more about what to do with the older style guns than
the newer ones. Does this also pertain to the newer style? For the price of the new feed throat I
think Im better off replacing than fixing the old one. Thanks again Gregg
Answer:
Most of the info carries over from old style to new style. This is one where if a couple of minor
things dont cure the problem right away then it is better to replace the part.
Answer:
I just finished an old model 60 (I have several) and the old bolt is different than the new . The
new feed throat would not fit because it was not chamfered on the edge to fit the old bolt. Could
we make this fit or is this something we need a new bolt also?
Reply:
If I recall correctly, and remember we are going by my memory, the feed throat can be altered to
fit the old style bolt. Ken
Answer:
Received feed throat today. Installed it and when trying to put in the firing mechanism I have
to pull bolt back about 1/2 to get it to go all the way in. The feed throat seems to fit the bolt
good. I think the problem is the cartridge lifter is not coming up far enough and hit the bottom
of the feed throat. The old feed throat has a cut out on in it for the cartridge lifter.I think the
thing to do is mill out the new feed throat like the old one. Just thought Id see if you ever ran
into this before?
The problem was the cartridge carrier was too long where it hits the cartridge lifter roller. Took
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off a few thous. and put her together. Ran some dummy rounds through and it feeds extracts and
ejects great. Ready for the range.
Question:
Ken, I took in today a Mauser action, model 1908. Its stamped Deutsche Waffen und Munitions
Fabriken BERLIN. I know its German and was made in Berlin. It has Weaver bases and rings with a
Redfield Tracker 4x scope. The customer is out of windage adjustment. I tried to center the scope
but it only has 5 turns total and at 2 1/2 centered it isnt enough. Im used to Simmons scopes and
they have lots of adjustment. What do you think, Should I try a different scope? Thanks Gregg PS
it doesnt even have enough adjustment to collimate it.
Answer:
OK since the scope and base and rings are already on the gun we can assume the customer wants
these on his gun. (If he said you can change them then that is a whole different matter). So back
to the Weaver bases etc. Take the scope off and make sure the rings are on correctly. Then take
the bases off and you can machine or grind off the base ON THE ONE SIDE SO THE BASES WILL
ROTATE IN THE DIRECTION YOU NEED THE SCOPE TO MOVE. That is in capitol letters so you see it
is important to be sure which side you are altering. Take off from the edge where it touches the
receiver and over past the screw holes so the base will not rock on the receiver. Be aware you will
have to alter both bases. Make sure both bases are close to level and straight with one another,
before you do any altering if one is off make them line up and then check them before you do
any other alterations. Another thing that sometimes works but not always is to take the rings off
and turn them around. This sometimes shifts the scope so it will collimate.
I forgot the first basic thing to do and that is to check the barrel to see that it is straight and
not bent. Do that before you alter anything. Ken
Reply:
Ken, The customer just want it fixed. Are there other rings and bases that are easier to adjust? As
far as the BBL., Its been rebarreled to 358 win. and thats all I can tell you about it. I dont remember if BOB talked about checking straightness of BBls or not. Ill have to research. But it shoots an
excellent group. 1 wide by 1/2 high, and all three holes touch each other. Gregg
Answer:
A different base and ring configuration will have the ability to center the scope. The Leupold-Burris-Redfield series have the windage screws on the rear base so the scope can be moved with out
the internal adjustments. S&K and Conetrol are both a favorite of mine and they are both adjustable on the front and rear rings and they have the added advantage of both rings holding the
scope to take the recoil. (Not to mention they are very cool in appearance and sleek so they dont
snag on stuff). Otherwise just drift the bases as described earlier and make them work. Just so you
know if you replace the bases and rings you will probably have to fit the bases to the receiver to
make sure they fit straight and level etc.
Reply:
I know what you mean about appearance and nothing to snag on with the ring situation. I ended
up fitting what he had. I found that the rear ring and base was way out of level and the scope
wasnt sitting in the rear ring even close to flat or flush. The first thing I did was fit it so it lined
up and leveled with the front ring and base. Then the scope finally sat in the rings and looks level
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with the receiver. This also took up some of the windage problem. Next I fit the bases to take up
the windage problem like you explained. Collimated it and now there is adjustment both left and
right pretty equal. Ready for the range. And were getting hit with another snowstorm. Just cant
get outside this year and get anything done yet.
Question:
I have tried several things including some judicious heat and I can not get the socket head screw
out of the back of a bolt on a new Savage 111. This is a gun that came out just before the AccuTrigger. Any suggestions? Jack R
Answer:
Jack, Ive had them tight enough that it took some gruntn to get them loose but never had to
heat them. Maybe stand the bolt up and try some Kroil. That may help free it.
Reply:
After soaking in a good penetrating oil like Kroil, take a punch that fits down inside the socket
screw and thump it a couple of times. This will help break it loose and the vibrations seem to help
with the oil soaking. Warming it up some after soaking in the Kroil is OK as well. Ken
Answer:
Thanks Ken it worked.
Question:
What is the proper break-in procedure for a new rifle barrel?
Answer:
I completely clean the barrel after every shot or two for the first 25-50 rounds. Make sure you use
a solvent that will remove copper fouling as this is one of the things that will be deposited the
worst in a barrel that is a little rough. You could do this for more rounds if it is indicated by the
copper fouling (blue color on the patch run through after letting solvent work for a bit). Jack R
Reply:
Jack, Ive cleaned many bores and copper fouling is a pretty common thing. I dont think Ive ever
cleaned one that didnt have copper fouling. Are you telling me if you clean the BBL after every
shot or two that the copper fouling wont be so bad after break-in? I have a new Ruger waiting
to go to the range. While I was setting it up (custom stock, glass bed, etc.) I ran a patch through
the bore and it came out blue with copper fouling. Brand new out of the box and the bore was
filthy. You would think that they would clean it after test firing? Thanks Gregg
Answer:
We clean the barrel thoroughly after every shot and then push a patch damp with Break Free
through the barrel then fire the next shot and repeat for the first 10-20 shots. Then we clean the
barrel and push the damp Break Free patch thru after every 5 rounds up to 50 rounds total. After
that the barrel should be broke in and have Break Free worked into the pores of the metal. If you
ask 10 different gunsmiths you will get 10 different answers but they are all doing the same thing
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of breaking in the roughness of the barrel. All the methods seem to work, this is what we have
found works for us.
Reply:
I did not realize the bores are so rough when new. I know now that there are many rifles that
were never even thought about being broke in. But many of them shoot quite well. Ive been
around guns since I can remember and started thinking about how nobody ever said any thing
about breaking in their new rifle bbl. Thats how the question came to mind. I know when I start
telling people around here that they are going to be amazed on how much is involved to do it
right. But many guys sight them in, clean them and maybe shoot once or twice at a deer and
clean and put them away until next year, pull them out and shoot 2-3 shots making sure their on
target and clean. So it may take years for some of these guys to break in.
Answer:
Yeah we did the same thing growing up. Break in is to smooth out the barrel from the rifling process (whichever method is used will cause some roughness). Most hunters do as you described and
just shoot a couple of shots a year. A barrel that is broke in and smooth will clean out easier and
not as much fouling will be left to corrode the bore. Again most hunters never shoot or fool with
their gun to find its optimum load etc. They buy a box of their favorite shells and sight it in where
they think it should be and go hunting, and lets face it that is usually just fine they shoot 1-2
shots and kill their quarry and clean the gun with Hoppes #9 wipe it down with an oil and put
it in the gun cabinet or safe. Some gun nuts have read about break in but dont think it matters
cause...grampa never did it, and I always kill my deer with one shot. Explain that the barrel will
shoot better, clean better, and since it is cleaner will not corrode and therefore last longer.
Reply:
Ken, The same applies to muzzle loaders then. Kind of odd the manufactures dont put any thing
in the owner manuals about breaking. Thanks for the lesson. I learn something every time I ask a
question here.
Answer:
What do you guys think about these bore lapping kits that use lapping compound on bullets to
fire through the barrel? Seems to me you would want to be very careful with this procedure or
you could remove more than just roughness.
Answer:
Using a lap on a bullet or fire lapping is one way to do it but it is for a more extreme case of
roughness. Many of the instructions want you to use 5-10 shots. I think, as does Bob, that this
is quite excessive. You will do more wear on the barrel than anything. Just 1-3 shots should be
enough to remove any roughness and but you wont be lightly smoothing it and you wont be
getting the Break free into the pores of the metal, but it does have its place.
Question:
Any opinions of heavy barrels for the 10/22?
Among my friends the Volquartsen seems to have the vote.
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Answer:
Volquartsen makes a great product. Green Mountain barrels impressed Bob awhile back. No one
sets out to make a bad barrel so I think you will not be disappointed with whatever brand you
choose. The Butler Creek barrels are quite popular in this area and they seem to work well but
I have seen one or two that had some issues. Clark, Hart and Lilja are pricey, but top of the line.
Check your Brownells catalog. Expect to do some fitting on any barrel you get for your gun.
Question:
Trigger job on an A Bolt stalker. The pull is about 4lbs. and according to Browning that is as light
a pull that can be had with the adjustable trigger it has on it. This fire control system is kind of
funky compared to others. The secondary sear falls off of a small round anvil shaped gadget that
moves as you pull the trigger. What would be the most professional way of lightening this trigger
pull and the safest?
Answer:
First I have to promote the AGI triggers course, Bob does a great job. If you want to know about
triggers it will answer your questions. Now the first thing we can do is polish all of the bearing
surfaces, MAINTAINING all the original angles. Then it depends a lot on what you want to end up
with. Is the gun yours or a clients? Is it creepy now or just heavy (a heavy 4lbs.)? How light does
the owner want it?
Reply:
This happens to be my own gun. trying to tune it in a little better. i would like at least a 3lb. pull.
maybe you are correct in suggesting just polishing first. This may smooth it out a little. It is creepy,
and i like most want to know exactly when she will fire. I have all the trigger job videos and they
are really great. I just never saw any design just like this one.
Answer:
Tisk tisk tisk, you are lucky Bob wont see this or he would ream you a good one. You havent seen
a trigger like this????? What is a Colt single action? The hammer comes to rest on the trigger.
They are exactly the same. The A-bolt has the striker come into contact with the sear which rests
on the trigger, when the trigger is pulled the sear falls and allows the striker to fall. The 1911 is
the same, the hammer comes to rest on the sear, when the sear is pushed out of the way the hammer falls.
Reply:
You are so right!! I havent done much with the single actions. I got the gun where I want it at
about 3lbs. I sanded one coil out of the trigger spring to reduce the pull, and I stoned a slight
amount off the back of the little post that releases the sear to reduce the creep a bit. I safety
checked it in all ways and it is o.k., and yes please dont tell Bob. I hope to be able to see you guys
at the Birthday bash in Reno. You Guys are great. Every time I come across something that seems
confusing, if I just study it a little harder things seem to fall into place. I just get more confident
on every job. Thanks again!!
Answer:
DO NOT SHORTEN SPRINGS!!!!! Spin them on a pin punch at a 45 degree angle against a sanding
belt to reduce the outside diameter to the desired strength. Then do the same with it against a
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buffing wheel to take the sharp edges off. - Jack
Question:
I bought a Ruger77 Hawkeye, its the new version of the MK11. 358 win caliber which only comes
in stainless with black synthetic stock. Personally I cant stand these stocks. So I bought a Boyds
laminate thumb-hole stock. The problem Im having is the cut out for the floorplate hinge and
the trigger guard are too deep. The floor plate wont close because it hits the stock because the
hinge is to deep in the stock. I shimmed it up with 2 washers and it will close now. But it wont
latch, because the latch on the trigger guard is too low. If I shim the trigger guard up so its flush
with the stock I think it will latch. Dont have any more washers. My Question is, have you ever
run into this problem? And do you think I will have any problems with these parts shimmed .I will
have to put 2 washers about 45/1000s under the hinge for the floor plate and 1 washer each under the mounting holes in the trigger guard. (45/1000s about the thickness of a dime). The screws
seem to be long enough. Also I was planning on glass bedding this stock. Just waiting for the
glass bedding course to come. Also the stock is factory fit and finished and is suppose to just bolt
on without any fitting. It does fit beautiful except for the cut outs being a little too deep. Thanks
and I hope I explained this so you understand what Im trying to tell you.
Answer:
Yeah that is one of those drop-in parts, they drop in and they work they just dont work correctly. I know I have said this before and everyone is probably tired of hearing it but there is NO
such thing as a DROP in part. They all need to be fitted to work correctly, anyway enough of
my ranting and all. I would definitely glass bed it but I would be concerned with the fit of the
magazine when you have the shims in place. The magazine will want to shift up and down and
leave a gap at the front where the nose of the cartridges can hang up when they are trying to
feed. Either leave the trigger guard and the floor plate hinge piece fully inlet and dress down the
outside of the stock and refinish or the easier way is to inlet the barreled action down to meet
the bottom metal parts. When all is inletted correctly, glass bed and have fun at the range and in
the field. Too bad the .358 Win cartridge isnt more popular as it is a neat little cartridge, and you
should be very pleased with it.
Question:
I replaced a firing pin on a Remington 121 22cal rifle. The tip was fat and would not set off the
round, so I reshaped it, now the round fires, I could file the tip, when I got the pin, do I have to
case harden it now?
I also had a blade firing pin for an early H&R sidekick revolver pistol, the blade is part of the hammer, it looks like it may be forced or soldered in place, it would not fire, the blade was fat on the
end. I could not file the blade, it was hard, I had to use a diamond grinder to reshape the blade,
now it fires, do I have to case harden the blade now?
I watch Bob on the video on heat treat and case hardening and now I am more lost than before.
Answer:
On the replacement firing pin I would harden it as they usually come soft for fitting. After you
harden it, it will last soooo much longer. As far as the H&R the whole hammer is hard as well as
the firing pin which is part of the hammer. You dont have to re-harden the tip as all it has to do
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is crush brass. As far as, do you need to case harden the rifle firing pin you replaced, that would
depend on what type of metal it is made out of. You DONT want to case harden oil hardening
steel. Watch Bobs tape again and I know he went over what you need to do to find out what
kind of steel you have in front of you.
Question:
Customer complained that once in a great while safety would not go on in this new Win 94 with
a tang safety. Refinished stock and put back together, tightened up butt stock and safety would
not go on at all. Fitted safety and goes off and on every time but is kind of stiff just after firing. If
I dont fire it and work the safety on and off it gets easier to go off and on. Do you think I need
to take a little more off the safety? The lever locks up good and tight with the safety on. I just
hate to take too much off of the safety and end up with another problem.
Answer:
Before you do any altering, I would check all the safety linkage and make sure it fits where and
how it is supposed to. Make sure the trigger returns as it is supposed to as this will affect the
safety assembly. Remember the safety worked one time so something is causing it not to work
now, not just magic.
Reply:
Checked the safety linkage again everything ok. Checked the trigger return, ok. Put stock back on
and safety wouldnt go on. Backed out the stock bolt about 1/8 turn and safety worked excellent.
I must have the stock bolt tighter than it was. Removed safety and took of about another1/1000
and stoned tit real nice and smooth. Reassembled stock and cranked tight. Safety now works
smooth as silk. I have this thing about tighten screws and bolts, probably tighter than need be.
But I dont want anything coming loose on the customer either. Thanks Gregg
Reply:
Yeah I like to have the screws tight as well. Did you ever figure out why the safety wouldnt work
with the stock tight? Ken
Answer:
I think its like Bob talks about in the video. The tangs are flexible on these guns and he says that
they never really go on the same every time.(the stock)I believe I was getting the stock tighter
than it was. With the stock tighter it squeezes the tangs together a little more thus the safety
linkage was binding in between the top tang and the trigger.
Question:
I have a Belknap model B-964 22 cal. semi-auto in the shop, same as a lot of other guns we get it
was working fine until a friend of mine who does gun repairs cleaned it for me. Well the customer brought it in complaining that it now fired
when you released the bolt to load a round in the chamber. I took it apart found the extractor
was bent out almost straight and was acting as a firing pin. I forgot to mention this gun is very
similar to the Savage 87J or the Savage 6J that Bob covers in the course. I got a new Savage extractor,
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installed and fit it and that problem was fixed. However now the gun will fire a loaded round, extract and eject it and load a new shell but the gun will not fire this round. it seems the bolt is not
coming back far enough to catch the hammer on the sear. I have taken the gun apart a number
of times, everything seems to be working smoothly with no binding or rough spots. What should I
be looking for, I am truly lost.
Answer:
Polish the chamber first. Then make sure the plungers are timed correctly, and you may have to
make the sear plunger more positive.
Question:
Update on the Carcano. I brought the rifle to a good friend of mine who has been a long time
Gunsmith and has his own rebluing and Parkerizing shop. He advised me the bolt is a mismatch.
Someone exchanged the bolt from another Carcano. Just behind the locking lugs, he removed
a small portion of metal and the bolt closes as it should. He also advised me not to fire the gun
since the headspace may not be right. My question, I have a Uberti Henry .45, purchased from
Cabelas and I never fired the gun. However, the Brass receiver has scratch marks from other rifles
positioned in my safe. What can I use, if any, to remove the scratches from the receiver without
destroying the finish? What do you recommend for a polish? Can you include this rifle as one of
the Disassembly and assembly guns on the inner circle DVD? Thanks for your help.
Answer:
Glad to hear the Carcano is doing better, get the headspace checked. Dont know if we will have
a Henry to do the disassembly and reassembly in the near future. As far as the scratches in the
receiver check that receiver and make sure it is Brass and not plated Aluminum. If it is brass you
can use sand paper to take it down and remove the scratches just like when you polish for bluing
etc. If the scratches arent very deep you can use steel wool down to 0000. Use Brasso or Flitz for
the final mirror shine if desired.
Question:
Well, after viewing the Savage section of the pro course and disassembling the rifle, you were
right on the money. The cartridge guide spring is broken. What I thought was the cartridge guide
spring AINT! Thanks to the DVD and a good schematic I now know what it is! Bet you have a lot
of laughs on mechanical gurus like me!! ha ha.
Any way, it looks like the barrel will have to be removed to replace the spring. Ive removed the
pin and I still cant get the barrel to budge in either direction. Before I apply much force I wanted
to check with you to see if there is anything else I need to know.
You were also right about the safety, the shoulder is worn to a bevel instead of a lip to catch. Im
planning to TIG and reshape it
Never mind, figured it out. Made a jig from a well seasoned oak 2x4. Drilled 2 interlaping fl
holes in it and pinned it across a stand. Slipped the barrel into it muzzle first so that it stopped on
the receiver and started sliding the rifle up and down onto the 2x4. 3rd bump got the barrel out
without a mark on the receiver! thanks anyway
37
Answer:
Thats the point of the method we teach. If we can get our students to think about HOW things
work, they can fix anything, whether theyve seen one before or not. Congratulations and Ill bet
you felt pretty D _ _ n smug about yourself when you made it work! Way to go! - Jack
Question:
Gene Shueys video on glass bedding was very good, but he did not explain the benefits of pressure bedding even though he mentioned he preferred it over other methods. Can anyone tell me
what those benefits might be?
Also: I took in an old bolt action 20 ga. shotgun repeater that was in well used condition. It is
a Sears Roebuck Ranger 141-7. I found that H&R had a similar model # 121, but there are not any
parts available at Jack First or Numrich. The part I need is the carrier spoon. It looks like it is a part
that acts as the secondary cartridge stop. If I knew what they looked like I could probably make
one. Anyone got any info on this gun and or parts Answer:
I dont know why Gene prefers that method. I prefer whatever works. Some barrels like pressure
and some do not. I like fiberglass stocks for many reasons and you cannot pressure bed correctly
with fiberglass or plastics, so if you have a gun with a small barrel dia and it likes pressure you
would have to have a wood stock.
Answer:
The easiest way to do this is, as Ken says, see how it shoots if you free float it. Then stick a couple
of business cards between the forend tip and the barrel, trying the groups as you add each card. If
this makes for better groups, turn the gun upside down and clamp it into a vise. Pull down on the
end of the barrel with a trigger pull gauge and note the weight registered at the point that the
card(s) pull out easily. Then, as I said in my 10/22 Tips and Tricks article in GunTech vol 5, you can
also color up some of the ACRAGLAS gel to match the stock and lay about a 2 band in the barrel
channel from the fore end tip back. Use the gel so it doesnt run out because were going to put
the stock upside down (horizontal) in a vise and hang a 1 fi-2lb weight (in your case, whatever
weight the trigger gauge showed) from the muzzle. I use a big crescent wrench with a shoestring
through the handle hole (very hi-tech and scientific) and hang it over the muzzle. When the glass
sets up, you will have an upward pressure at the fore end tip equal to the weight of the wrench
(or other weight). Try the gun before you do this and only do it if it needs help. - Jack
Question:
I have a Remington 552 .22 cal with a stuck cartridge case. What is the best way to remove them?
Answer:
The quickest and fastest is to just run a rod down the barrel and knock it out. Then you should be
able to see why it stuck, and fix it. Ken
Reply:
Duhh, I forgot to tell you it does not have a head on it.
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Answer:
Well that makes it a bit more interesting doesnt it. OK first try the easiest thing and that is to
take a bore brush and shove it into the chamber and case. You will want to use a bore brush that
is a bit larger than the case. Now dont push it all the way thru but just into the case, now try
to pull it out. The bristles on the bore brush are pushed back and angled back because the bore
brush is larger than the case and as you pull the brush out they want to dig in and hold on. Again
this doesnt work all the time and wont for a really tight, stuck case but you will be surprised
how often it does work. If that dont get it we will go onto the next step.
Reply:
It did not work
Answer:
OK pull the barrel from the receiver. Now you can take a tap that is SMALLER IN DIAMETER THAN
THE OUTSIDE OF THE CASE and tap the case and pull it out. This is tricky and you will NOT want
to damage the chamber so be careful.
Another way is to just polish it out with sand paper. Again be careful that you dont polish the
throat area of the barrel. You can also take a .22 LR chamber reamer and cut it out but the case
may stick to the reamer and just spin and not pull out. Good luck Ken
Reply:
I had to weld a 1/4 in rod to a #12 tap and got it out on the second try. I polished the chamber up
a little and the gun cycles good now. Thanks
Question:
I still have not heat treated my AK flat I bent into a receiver....what part of the receiver must I
heat treat? Just the slots and holes? The whole thing??
Answer:
You will need to heat treat any part that gets any wear, the rails are important, do them before
you rivet them in, and the holes for pins would be good as well. Anyplace where parts rub and
would bind, or wear away rapidly.
Question:
I have a Norinco 213 which is a basic clone of the Tokarev 33. The client wants a tritium type front
sight. Now as best as I can see the darn front sight seems to be machined out of the receiver!
There is no dove tail (lateral or vertical) and no tell-tale signs inside the receiver. Im thinking
about grinding the current sight down and either cutting a dove-tail or drilling and tapping the
receiver, but it seems ridiculous for such a low cost gun. What do you guys think?
Answer:
I believe the sight is part of the slide, and your assessment of how to go about installing a new
one is how I would do it. Either stake on a Colt type or install a dovetail type. Let the customer
know how much they are and if at all possible let him pick it out. That way he gets the sight he
39
wants. The firearm is inexpensive but they are a good solid gun and the customer is always right.
(well some of the time the customer is right).
Question:
On an Arisaka 6.5 that has been converted to .308, if a new firing pin is required, would an original firing pin (Arisaka 6.5) work or did the conversion to .308 require changes to the entire bolt
assembly.
Answer:
An original firing pin should work. It is hard to tell how much altering was done to your bolt but
the firing pin-bolt face-extractor should all work without modifications that would require a new
bolt. Get a new pin and make it work. That is what gunsmithing is all about; fitting new parts and
correcting other peoples screw ups.
Reply:
Thanks Ken. As far as fixing other peoples screw ups, I couldnt agree more. Im certain my experience pales in comparison to yours, but of the close to 500 guns that I have worked on, at least
half involved fixing something that somebody else had already fixed.
Answer:
I know what you mean and I hope the other people on this discussion board read this, it will help
them understand how much they are learning and how much misinformation is out there. Also
everyone that comes into our shop has a cousin, uncle, father, brother, grandfather, mailman, or
their cousins neighbors best friends ex husband who is a Gunsmith, who fixed this gun or is
who they have do their gunsmithing, and it is a nightmare and often dangerous. There are a lot
of very mechanical people in the world but if they dont KNOW design/function and how to correctly fix a gun we will always have work.
Question:
I have a Voere Titan II 30-06. Wonderful rifle, but I had a gunsmith check it out after I bought it,
and he adjusted the set trigger. Since then, the set trigger does not always set the front trigger.
Can anyone steer me to someone who can actually work on this trigger mechanism or is there an
AGI course that I can purchase which will allow me to fix the problem? I recently read that only
the factory (which no longer exists) can adjust the trigger mechanism. HELP.
Answer:
I dont want to be to forward, but if the factory can adjust it I am sure someone else out there
can. The factory is the only ones that the factory authorizes to work on their triggers. Where are
you located so maybe someone close to you can be recommended? If you want you can post your
phone number and I will call you and we can talk about us doing it. I am pretty sure that the triggers course that AGI makes covers set triggers so you can always go that route as well, call and
talk with Becky or Cheri and they will get you set up.
Answer:
I understand you being a bit gun shy after having a gun altered with out your consent and made
unreliable and possibly dangerous. The only time I alter a gun with out the customers OK is if
there is a safety issue. If I catch the problem before I do any work at all I call the customer and let
40
him know that there is a concern with his/her firearm and if he dont want it fixed then we turn
the WHOLE job down and write on the repair tag Return No work done, per customer request
and the gun is UNSAFE TO USE, DO NOT FIRE. Another thing I would like to touch on AND I DO
NOT WANT TO OFFEND ANYONE, ESPECIALLY OUR SOLDIERS WHOM I HAVE A GREAT DEAL OF
RESPECT FOR, but and armorer is just that, an armorer. They work on specific guns and just do
minor disassembly and parts replacement. They are not gunsmiths. We see this a lot when teaching. THEY ARE MUCH BETTER THAN THE AVERAGE JOE WHO HAS NEVER HAD A GUN APART, but
if they werent trained on it in the military then MOST (BUT NOT ALL) dont know the finer points
of design, function and repair of firearms. Take your guns to someone who has been doing the
work on General repair for some time. Let me know if you run into trouble after you get the triggers tape.
Question:
I got my courage up, and adjusted the trigger pull on my Voere...the straight pull is at about 3lb,
after set trigger is set, about 2oz. I no longer have any problems with failure to set. The adjustment screw was almost out and the coarseness/creep adjustment was out of adjustment. In 20
rounds fired, there were no problems.
Still looking for that AGI trigger course. I can find courses for specific rifles, but not a generic
one. If you know a title I would appreciate it.
Answer:
You may have to get it through the professional series, but I dont think so. I remember seeing
it at SHOT as a separate DVD set. I am sorry I dont know the course number. Call the girls at AGI
and they should be able to hook you up.
Answer:
The course # is DVD 3054. It is a 2 disk set and 8 hours long. It covers all types of triggers. - Jack
Question:
Hello, has anyone seen the AGI video series on the AR-15? Im looking for info on how to change /
install barrels on an upper. The bushy tape I bought shows everything but barrel & related parts
install. Is the AGI version more complete?
Answer:
I know Bob did a tape and basically built one up from parts and did some barrel work. He showed
a lot of the tools out there for barrel removal/installation, but I have not seen it and I am not sure
which one it is. I would call AGI and speak with Cheri (tell her I told you to call), she should know
which one you need. If she dont she will find out, great gal she is. Anyway if someone else out
there has the tape you need they will log on here and let you know.
Answer:
I know this is a late reply but in case you havent found an answer yet, Bob Ds AGI video on Building the AR-15 from a Parts Kit shows how to install a standard AR-15 barrel and headspace it. It is
really simple. You can also find instructions on www.ar15.com. I wish all firearms were as easy to
re-barrel as an AR15.
41
Question:
I just recently acquired a Yugo SKS 59/66 A1. Im not sure if it is an A1 or A2. It is at least an A1 as
from what I have learned reading about the varying models that the flip-up front night sight was
introduced with the A1 model and mine has that. Its all in original condition including the original leather strap. I have really come to appreciate this weapon as a sturdy combat weapon. Reading the article, SKS Accuracy Improvements, I wonder what suggestions, if any, you would have
for this weapon. The article is targeted toward Norinco repros.
Thanks for your consideration.
Answer:
What kind of accuracy does it get now?
What kind of accuracy do you want it to get?
What kind of ammo are you using?
Have you tried different brands?
All guns can have their accuracy improved by just doing a trigger job, even if nothing else is done.
The steps that work to improve the accuracy on a Norinco will work the same on any SKS.
Question:
Working on this gun which is similar to the Model 60 and 90. Customer has been getting some
misfires. The gun was just filthy, cleaned everything up and checked the firing pin protrusion and
headspace. Oiled it up and reassembled.
Upon working the action by hand with the charging handle, the action stuck in the open position,
had to disassemble to free it. Really didnt see much wrong except the recoil spring isnt perfect,
its not kinked, but its not perfectly straight either.
Put it back together and after about 6 times working it again it stuck in the open position again.
The action also seems sticky, like its binding half way open. Will the recoil spring do this? If I take
the spring out and slide the bolt and charging handle back and forth with or without pressure
its smooth as silk. Seems to me it has to be the recoil spring. There is really nothing else that
can bind. Also there was so much crud around the chamber where the bolt hits that I think this
was the misfire problem. Customer also showed me how the bolt was binding, but did not say
anything about the action sticking open. Someone must have had it apart and moneyed up the
spring, how else could the spring get a little out of whack. Gregg
Answer:
If you have good headspace and the firing pin is clean and free to move and is fit up correctly
and the hammer works correctly then the dirty parts can cause it to not close fully and misfire. It
sounds like you have that figured out and probably fixed, well know after you start test firing
it. As far as the bolt binding, a bad spring can cause binding up issues. Does the spring have one
coil that isnt correct and can rub on the inside of the bolt? If not the spring guide should keep it
straight and in line. Try a new spring and see what happens. Keep us appraised. Ken
42
Reply:
The coils all seem to be ok, but the spring isnt straight its wavy and I can see shiny spots on all
the waves were its rubbing inside the bolt. I think Ill order a new spring and polish out the inside
of the bolt to make sure there are no burrs in there. When I cleaned the bolt I was amazed at the
factory burrs here and there.
Question:
Talked to a customer yesterday, He has an H+R youth combo and the firing pin sticks. I never have
taken one apart and dont know if it is possible. Are those pins or rivets in the receiver? And what
does it take to disassemble and clean? Dont remember anything in the course about these guns.
This guy tells me its a common problem with these guns, I have owned one for years and years
and never had a problem. If its possible to take apart, is it a bear to get back together as the receivers are pretty well blind to the insides the way it looks to me. Your input is appreciated. I see
that there are pins that can be knocked out. Had to take my glasses off to see the darn things. It
sucks to get old.
Answer:
They are pins and you may have to use a slave pin to reassemble the trigger housing depending
on which model you have. Also when you take it apart go slow and look at where the parts fit.
They are simple guns but if you dont know they can be a headache. Draw a picture of how the
parts look and fit if you think you will forget.
Reply:
Got her apart, cleaned oiled and back together. It was dirty but not extreme. Everything looked
good. The complaint was misfiring. Do the hammer springs in these get weak and cause misfires? It cocks fine, but there is a little play in the beginning between the hammer and spring.
The trigger releases the hammer normally. The reason I ask about the slop between the hammer
and spring is the one I have doesnt have any slop. Thanks Gregg P.S. Going to try and get out Sat
afternoon and test fire.
Answer:
Sometimes the spring can be weak but that is uncommon on these. I would look at the firing pin
and make sure it fits correctly and has the correct protrusion etc. Stick to the rules. Also check the
headspace.
Reply:
I dont know why I just didnt check the headspace right away. I think that the problem, It closes
on the no-go as easily as the go. Upon further inspection the hinge also has some slop. I dont
think its worth fixing. The cheap easy fix, its just going to do it again. The right way is putting
more into it than its probably worth. I have WALLY WORLD on the other side of town and they
sell for about what I pay wholesale.
Question:
A client brought in a Savage 93R17 and claims that an over energetic grandson while attempting to remove the bolt, snapped the bolt stop. I can look into the receiver and see the sheared
43
portion of the bolt stop, which is part of the trigger assembly. Savage does not list any individual
parts for the trigger assembly and has no detailed diagrams for its components. Do you have any
sources on disassembly or replacement parts?
Answer:
Take down should be rather simple once you take the stock off. As far as trigger parts are concerned, I dont know for sure but most companies restrict trigger parts so it may have to go back
to Savage. I would give them a call and see what they say.
Question:
I purchased an Italian Carcano Model 1891 rifle (antique) in 6.5. The bore is good with no rust or
pitting. The outside of the barrel has some surface rust under the hand guard and some other
areas. The inside of the trigger guard has substantial rust. What do I use to remove the rust? The
rifle is in good condition. However, when I try to lock the bolt in the chamber, I have to force it to
lock. Why is this occurring? Please advise. Thanks.
Answer:
To remove rust simply strip the gun so you can clean it and use some steel wool and Break Free.
Dont use real coarse steel wool as you can scratch the metal and the bluing. Lightly rub it with
the steel wool and then let it soak in the Break Free over night. By this I mean wipe the rusty
spots down well with the oil. The next day use the steel wool again and rub the spots of rust.
You may want to get the steel wool wet with the Break Free and scrub the rust that way. This will
clean off the rust pretty well and the Break Free will soak in and prevent the rust from growing.
If you want to re-blue then that is another story all together. The bolt closing hard can be several
things. First I need to know how familiar with rifles you are, as this model I believe cocks when
you close it. So you are compressing the striker spring as you close the bolt. No offense if you
already know this and that is not what the problem is. You dont say whether or not this happens
with or without ammo? If it only happens with ammo it could be the extractor being pushed out
of the way. It could be the rounds are dragging against the mouth of the chamber. It could be the
bolt is binding on the rear guard screw when it closes. Many possibilities here. Take the gun apart
and see what happens as you reassemble it and put the bolt in after each new part is installed
in the gun. You may have to disassemble the bolt and do the same thing with the receiver. Good
luck let us know what you find.
Reply:
Thanks for the reply. I will try the break free and 0000 steel wool. The problem with the bolt is
with an unloaded chamber. I have stripped the bolt and gun. After I finish removing the rust and
cleaning the bolt assembly, I will attempt to reinstall the bolt and try closing the action. I will let
you know.
Question:
The bolt on my Carcano does not lock easily even when the bolt and receiver are completely
stripped. I have assembled the bolt in the following order: (1) firing pin into the firing spring, (2)
Safety catch, (3) cocking piece assembly, (4) cocking piece nut retainer. When I completely assemble it, the cocking piece assembly is on the bottom of the bolt when I guide it in the receiver. It
binds on the tail end of the receiver after the bolt after the trigger is depressed to allow the bolt
44
locks to slip pass it. How about your next assembly and disassembly on the 1891 Carcano rifle?
Every thing else appears to be in working order. Thanks.
Answer:
Disassembly / reassembly huh? That is a good idea. I will see if anyone around here has one and
will pass on the idea to the high and mighty of the company. So the bolt doesnt close easily when
it and the receiver are stripped? This indicates that (as long as the extractor is not rubbing where
it shouldnt) either the bolt or the receiver are bent, or crushed. Examine the bolt closely and see
if there are any rough or heavy wear marks. See if you can tell where it is binding in the receiver.
You can use some Dykem or a Magic marker to color the bolt, you can see where it is wearing
that way too. It sounds as though the bolt is assembled correctly; I would leave it stripped until
we find out where and why it is binding with the receiver.
Answer:
This is not my area of expertise but I know that sometimes imported guns are mass assembled
from parts. I had a Mauser that acted just as described and came to find out that it had parts of
non-matching serial numbers. Ultimately, I had to re-chamber the barrel so the cartridge would
head-space and the problem was cleared up. Hope this helps with the mental anguish.
Answer:
I dont know the Carcano inside and out but I do know that they have enough slop in manufacturing that a different bolt should still go in especially when stripped. If it doesnt as is the case
we need to find out why, but you are correct and often mismatched parts dont work together.
Then people want to know why they cant take the parts from one gun and drop them in another and have it work perfectly.
Question:
This is an update on the last message you sent me on the Carcano Jan 19th. I examined the bolt
very closely and discovered the right locking lug is correct with the top slightly rounded closer to
the bolt head. However, the left lug, on the lower end toward the bolt head, shows wear marks
and is rounded almost on a 45 degree angle. The measurements calibrated to the top of the left
lug is .0428 and the bottom is .0384. I think that is were the bolt is binding and has to be forcibly
closed. Any suggestions? Do I need to replace the bolt? Numrich has a complete bolt listed for
$45.00. Thanks.
Answer:
Im not sure where you are measuring. From the breech face part of the locking lug back to the
part that bears in the receiver? If this has been lapped in or is ground to an angle like you
describe it sounds like it is a negative lock up and that would not cause the hard closure. I would
wait and find out exactly what is causing the difficulty before spending a bunch of money on
a bolt as that may not fix the problem and then you have wasted your money. Take a Magic
marker and color the recoil lugs completely as well as the whole front half of the bolt. (You can
use Dykem if you prefer). Then slide the bolt in ONE time and remove it and see where the bolt is
rubbing in the receiver
45
Question:
I have a New England SB2 single shot in .223 with a badly damaged firing pin hole and pin. It
appears that the firing pin somehow got bent down and damaged the hole making it severely
elongated. The customer says the gun is hard to open after firing it. Imagine that! My question
is which method would you use to repair the firing pin hole, Welding or bushing? Im thinking
bushing is best so I dont need to worry about re-heat treating. Or would you have to re-heat
treat other than just drawing back to a blue? Im kind of not sure on this one.
Answer:
Well welding and re-drilling is quicker and since we have TIG and can do it without a lot of heat
affecting area around the firing pin hole. We would TIG it up and then anneal as you mention
and re-drill and refit/repair firing pin. If you are concerned about heat affected area or dont have
TIG then the bushing method is very acceptable.
Question:
I just finished watching your video customizing Mauser actions. Ya did a good job!
Anyway I wonder if there is some way I might get the dimensions for the floating chamber reamer tool you use in the video. I would like to make one for myself. Also, in the course Bob talks
about a solder called Eutectic (sp?)157. I cant seem to locate any. Ive been told its been replaced
by something else. I know the videos are about 14 years old now; do you guys still use it?
Answer:
We still use Eutectic (dont know about the spelling) cause we still have some. I dont know where
Bob got it, sorry. I will try to remember and ask him. I am not a solder fan as it is never permanent, BUT I am a poor solderer as well. This stuff does work when you have to use solder and we
all do from time to time.
I am glad you enjoyed my video. I thought I gave the dimensions but they really arent critical.
The piece the reamer fits into is approximately 4 1/2 inches long and 2 1/4 inches wide. They can
be a bit smaller and of course a bit bigger. I would measure the reamer shank that you have and
are going to use and drill a hole a couple of thousandths over that dia. so the reamer will slide in
with out a lot of trouble. Drill and tap a hole thru to the reamer hole and that is your reamer retainer screw. On the other end solder, or weld, or thread and install a piece of drill rod that is 1/4
inch in dia. and about 18 inches long, again the length is not critical. If you want the specifics of
the reamer holder I will get the measurements at the shop and put them on here. Let me know.
Remember we have 3 different holders that we have made and the dimensions are different on
all three as we used scraps to make the parts, the dimensions really arent that critical.
Answer:
The web site for the company that makes the solder is eutectic-na.com. They should be able to
help you locate a vendor. I remember finding some solder in either an old Brownells or Midway
catalog. The description said that the solder was the same as Eutectic 157 but I have not been
able to find the catalog again. The new ones do not have the reference.
46
Question:
Okay guys. I got a Mauser action with an aftermarket Timney trigger that sports a 40 inch bull
barrel and a 2 inch muzzle break! The only marking on the barrel is .338. The customer claimed
that is was extremely awkward to maneuver around and way to heavy, so he wanted the barrel cut down to 24 inches. I was reluctant because if anything it was an interesting conversation
piece. The point is when I did cut it down; I found it was bored off center! The muzzle break was
perfectly attached and matched the outer dimensions of the barrel. However there is about a
quarter inch more barrel to one side of the bore at the muzzle! This will make re-crowning a bit
interesting. My question is how do you think this affected accuracy? I never fired the behemoth
before and didnt get any feedback from the owner (who is not the original owner).
Answer:
Did the muzzle break really not line up with the bore? Muzzle break bore holes are oversized but
if it was off by 1/4 inch as you mention the bullet would have hit the muzzle break and blew it off
or bulged the barrel and severely damaged the muzzle break/barrel. Are you sure it was a muzzle
break or just a weight to look like a break? Accuracy would not have been affected if the muzzle
break had the correct clearance. As long as everything is correct... bedding, barrel installation,
headspace, crown, etc. etc. then the only way the accuracy would be affected by a bore that is off
center is after multiple shots. As the barrel warms up it would start to warp as there is more metal
on one side of the bore that the other.
Reply:
I didnt express myself clearly. It was a real muzzle break and it DID align with the barrel. The
1/4 inch I mentioned is how much more barrel there is to one side of the bore AFTER I cut it off.
Thats what I found strange. The fact that the muzzle break aligned perfectly, I was curious as to
how they threaded the barrel to receive the muzzle break. The only thing I came up with is that
the reamer snaked through the barrel blank and was off-set or off-center at the point of my
cut and then re-centered at the muzzle. The accuracy question was my main concern for my client
and you have addressed that.
Question:
I recently acquired an early Remington 760. I should like to get the gun to shoot as accurately as
possible. I have a couple of questions which I hope someone can answer for me.
On tape # 52 of the Professional Gunsmithing course, Mr. Dunlap suggests that these guns will be
most accurate if the barrel is three point bedded. But he doesnt really say how to go about that
bedding. (This, by the way, I find unusual, as Mr. Dunlop is one of the best, most interesting, and
most detailed instructors Ive ever encountered, and that includes forty years as a college/university academic.) I assume (but do not know for sure) that one is to gently file off a bit of the middle
of the lower, solid escarpment on the receiver and thus create two small pads on which the barrel
plate should rest. If Im correct, how many thousandths of an inch should one remove?
At the top of the receiver, where the barrel enters and where the metal is really quite thin, are we
to remove surrounding metal to create a pad or contact point, or add metal (TIG?).
I should really appreciate a knowledgeable answer to these questions.
Regarding the same gun, is the back of the receiver shaped and contoured in the same manner
and of the same size as the receiver of an 870 or 1100?
47
I ask because trap shooters change stocks the way women used to change hats back in the 40s.
Hence there are lots of used, inexpensive 870/1100 stocks out there with higher combs than the
one on a 760.
Thanks ahead of time for any help anyone knowledgeable can give me here.
Answer:
Your evaluation on how to 3 point bed is semi correct. You dont file on the receiver but on the
barrel extension. Try to always alter the cheapest parts so if you have to replace it is better for
you, and the receiver is not a replaceable part. (You would have to get a whole new gun, serial
numbered part). As far as the stocks are concerned I cant remember. I THINK it is the same as the
smaller 870 / 1100 receivers 20 gauge. Let me look into that and I will get back with you. I will be
at SHOT so it will take me a few days.
Reply:
Thanks for the reply. Its much appreciated. I look forward to anything else you have to say on this
subject. I suspect that youll be working at the S.H.O.T. Show, but enjoy it in any case.
Question:
I have a customer who had me clean his BAR because it would not eject all of the time. You fired
the first round, it would extract and eject, round number two would load, fire, extract and lay
sticking out of the ejection port, the action would jam and would not close on round three. If I
shoot nickel plated cases, factory new rounds, it functioned fine for me. The customer is using
brass cases, factory new, and it jams, no reloaded rounds are being used. what can be done to fix
this problem?
Answer:
You may have multiple problems; it sounds as though the extractor is not holding on correctly
so make sure it fits right. Next, polish the chamber as that will cause less stress on the extractor.
Make sure the gas regulator is the correct one for the caliber and the hole is the correct size.
Make sure the piston is clean and free to move as it should. Make sure the ejector is fitted correctly. You will also want to check the gas hole in the barrel for the correct size. You may have to
contact Browning or one of their service centers to get the specs. on the assorted gas holes etc.
Otherwise simply fit the parts as the AGI videos show.
Answer:
The nickel cases slide easier over rough spots than the brass ones do since the nickel plating is
much harder than brass. This indicates that any or all of the problems Ken mentions could be the
culprit. Polish the chamber and fit the extractor before you go farther. - Jack
Question:
Where is the best bargain on chambering and finishing reamers? Also, has anyone used the Dulite
bluing setup, and is it worth $1400? Thanks
Answer:
The best bargain may not be what you really want. If the reamer is cheap but incorrect you will
48
regret it in the end. I recommend any of the top name brands.... Pacific Tool and Gauge, Manson,
Clymer, and J&G all seem to put out good reamers; some are less expensive than others so I will
let you make the final decision. Dont know about the Dulite, call them and ask for references. Let
us know what the references have to say. Ken
Question:
I had a client in my store with an old 7mm Mauser with a Mauser action. The only marks on it
were Fabrique d Armas he told me that 2 gunsmiths had refused to drill and tap for a scope
mount because of possible occlusions in the receiver that could not be seen and the receiver
would explode when shot. Is this something we should be concerned with? Also thanks to all of
you at AGI for your videos and all of your help when I need it.
Answer:
OK, I dont know which Mauser model you have but it sounds like a small ring that cocks on closing. Many of these have a tendency to be a bit soft with their heat treat, so they develop headspace, especially with warm ammunition. First check all the safety concerns..... headspace, firing
pin hole size, firing pin fit in the hole, firing pin protrusion, does the chamber look bad, does the
bolt look OK, no cracks etc. Then if it appears safe I would fire the gun BEFORE you do any work.
If everything works fine then go ahead and drill and tap it. Drilling and tapping wont cause the
gun to blow up but if done incorrectly can cause problems. If you drill into the barrel and go
too deep you will be too close to the chamber and that is bad. Also you will want to be sure that
the rear hole of the front scope base does NOT drill into the locking lug area. You will want it to
be ahead of the locking lug of the receiver. You want to drill into the locking lug recess where the
bolt lugs fit. If you drill into the locking lug support then it is weakened a bit and it can develop
headspace faster but again the gun wont blow up with standard ammo. If this is to be a complete rebuild / sporterize job just be sure to get the receiver and bolt reheat treated and you will
be fine. Even if you decide not to reheat treat the bolt and receiver, be sure to test fire the gun
after you have done all the work and keep that case for your records. Let us know what you find
out and what you and your customer come up with. Ken
Reply:
Thanks for the information. Another question comes to mind. Are there any parameters for the
minimum amount of threads that we should install for scope mounts that are tapped over the
chamber? I do not remember this information being in any of the tapes. thanks again
Answer:
When I drill and tap a receiver over the chamber I simply go thru the receiver and that is all. That
way I have not weakened the barrel at all. Then the rear screw will have as many threads as possible and still allow the bolt to close with clearance. A good rule for sights / scopes / etc. is that
you must have 5 threads of the screw in metal to be as strong as the screw.
Question:
A friend has an older 308 Remington bolt action rifle that he got from his father who got it used.
It seems that it shoots fine as long as there are NOT 4 rounds in the magazine. He says that if a
fourth round is in the magazine it will be jam every time he tries to load the fourth round, but
never when there are fewer that 4 in the magazine. The jam is caused by the third round not fully
49
extracting and the fourth round getting tangled up as it is pushed in to the space the third round
is still in (so Im told). Would any one have an idea on what the problem is, so I can relay the answer to him?
Answer:
First tell him to make sure the magazine spring is installed in the follower correctly. Second if the
first doesnt work......Get the gun and see for yourself what the jam is and what it looks like. Then
we can go from there. Third party questions are rarely correct, in their description of what is going on. Ken
Reply:
I dont know if Ill see my friend for some time. He lives up state, but Ill call him about checking
the mag spring.
Question:
Customer brought Savage Model 73 in, will extract but wont eject. Upon inspecting the ejector spring seemed weak. Removed ejector and spring and the spring has a kink in it about 1/3
the way from the end. What is the cause? How can the spring get kinked when its in place? All
over the top of receiver, barrel ring, scope rail etc. there are what seems to be small silver colored
metal shavings. Any input will be appreciated.
Answer:
Never mind, no need for alarm, the metal filings are from the scope rail where they filed the
front down to get the scope to fit. Couldnt see with the scope on.
PS; You would think that a guy would clean up his mess after doing something like that.
Reply:
Sometimes the ejector springs get damaged when installed. Sometimes there is a kink to keep
them in place when the ejector is removed, (although I havent seen that on the Savage ejector
springs), and the kink should be at the bottom end. The Savage ejector spring is short and therefore they dont have the best ejection. You can replace it with a slightly longer, stiffer spring from
your assorted spare spring box (you DO have one of these, Right?)
Question:
Im taking apart 788 bolt for the first time. I put a piece of wire through the cocking piece to take
tension off spring to unscrew. Worked fine. Is there anything I should know before taking the firing pin and spring ass. apart? This is a lot different than a 700 or Mauser style bolt like Im familiar with.
Answer:
No, once you have the firing pin out you will see how it works and there is nothing scary about it.
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Question:
Ive been looking for a .358 Win in bolt action and they just arent floating around. Are the
Mauser 98s the best to build a custom rifle on? Who makes the barrels? I found a couple 98s on
the auctions pretty reasonable. I dont know anything about them yet. Is there anything to watch
for before buying these old gems? Ive heard of guys buying them and they dont shoot worth a
darn, but if youre going to build a custom the big thing is a good action I assume. Ken is the master of these, so can you point me in the right direction on finding a good action and what ever
else I will need. Thanks Gregg
Answer:
Wow, that is a tall order, before you can decide on what action; you need to decide a couple
of other things first. What is the gun to be used for? Is it to be a hunting rifle? For big/medium
game? Varmints? Is it to be a target rifle? A simple plinker? Or is this a project to learn how to
build rifles and barrel them? After these are answered we can move on to decide what action is
best. I personally like the Mauser 98s and enjoy sporterizing them but it isnt for everyone nor
is it the best choice for some applications. Many people dont think the 98 is or can be accurate
enough (or accurate enough for them) we get good accuracy especially for a hunting rifle. Is cost
and issue? It will be cheaper to buy a commercial gun and rebarrel. Anytime you sporterize a
military you are talking about a lot of work and time and cost. If you have decided to do a military conversion there are some 98s that are a bit better than others. We will go into that later.
As far as the barrels are concerned, any of the name brands make good barrels, Douglas, Shilen,
then the little costlier ones such as Pac-Nor, Lilja, Hart, Krieger, etc etc. I would decide on whether
you are going to sporterize a military first before you buy a barrel as the barrel is one of the last
things you buy for the military conversion. Let me know what you have decided and I will help in
any way I can.
Reply:
The rifle is to be a hunting rifle. This is come about because I cant find a .358 Win. The only one
who makes them is browning in BLR and the barrel is only 20. Im a bigger guy and 20 barrels
are just to short for me (uncomfortable I guess). The BLR is the only one Im aware of. Ill use it
for white tail deer possibly black bear. I have not rebarreled a rifle yet. I dont have any machine
shop tools yet either. If it is more cost effective to buy a used factory rifle that would be fine. I
can refinish the stock my self. May be I could find a 70 or 700 to do this cheaper and with less
work. I thought it would be good experience to do a project like this, whether it is a Mauser or a
commercial rebarrel. Another question; The .358 is a .308 case with a .35 cal. slug.(correct?). So if
I look for a .308 factory rifle the bolt should be good to go? And I should be able to use the 308
headspace gauge? Thanks again
Answer:
Well, the Mauser will definitely be accurate enough for those applications. Since it doesnt sound
like you have all the needed tools, ie Mill, Lathe, TIG machine, you may want to go with a commercial gun and rebarrel but you will still need a Lathe. You can use a pre-threaded barrel but I
do not care for them and if things dont line up just right you have as much or more work to do
than just using a contoured barrel blank, and sometimes there are problems that cant be corrected. (Dont want to go into that now). The .358 is just as you described and it is a very good
cartridge. Too bad it didnt have more success in the industry. (Hopefully the .338 Federal will do
better). So now the ball is in your court again. You have to make the decision on what action you
want. A Mauser will be a BIG learning experience, but a commercial action/rifle such as the Rem
700 or the Win 70 or other brands in .308 will be quicker and easier. You may want to look at the
AGI video on tuning and truing military bolt actions that I made to see how much work is needed
51
to build a good safe Mauser or Springfield. Then if you decide to do a military conversion you
will want to get the Custom Mauser 98 video that Gene Shuey made as well. The things I show
are things that must be done before the gun can be barreled and stocked. Let us know what you
decide,
Reply:
Why would the pre-threaded barrel possibly give a problem? They turn those threads on a lathe
the same way or not? Heres anther way to go. www.montanarifleman.com. They make barreled
actions, Blued 4140 $989.70stainless $967.60. Add a Boyds custom stock and youre pretty much
in business. They say you can build a custom for $1000.00.I emailed them to see if they give FFL
discounts. Ill let you know what they say. I just found these guys and dont know a lot about them
yet. Has anyone done any business with them?
Answer:
There is no such thing as a drop in part. Many drop in parts will drop in and work but NONE
will drop in and work correctly. So a pre-threaded barrel will have threads but will they be tight,
loose, or what? Will the shank be the right length? If the barrel is for a Mauser will a groove be
cut next to the shoulder so the barrel will screw in flush with the shoulder? (the answer to that
one is yes, and the groove weakens the barrel where the chamber is) . This isnt too much of a
problem with standard calibers such as the .358 Win but it isnt correct and we do not like that).
Most pre-threaded barrels are short chambered as well and will have a chamfer at the chamber
mouth. This chamfer is either never quite enough which is easily fixed, but if it is excessive you
must set the barrel back. The chambers are often oversized from what we have seen and the
reamers we use are good ones so the chamber is big and when we finish the chamber reaming
there is a step where the oversized chamber steps down to the new chamber. This looks very bad
on fired cases and the life of the case is shortened as well. So if you just buy a blank or a tapered
blank you can thread it to fit YOUR SPECIFIC gun, then you can safety breech it correctly if your
action is a safety breech model, then you can cut the chamber with one reamer that will give you
a good fit. Hope this shines some light on the pre-threaded, pre-chambered barrels. Like most
things we dont just wake up and dislike something, there are reasons we dislike them. Not picking on you at all just trying to explain. Dont know that much about the Montana Rifle Man Co.
There was a company a couple of years ago at the SHOT show that was making a copy of the pre64 Winchester but it was virtually all cast and quite rough. If that is the same co. hopefully they
have a product that is cleaned up more than the one I saw, as it was very rough.
Reply:
Thanks again, hard to know if you dont know. The Montana Rifleman as far as I know makes
bolt actions. In the Sept 2006 issue of Buckmasters Gunhunter mag. there is a picture in the article
called poormanscustoms. The rifle in the picture looks nice. They also make just barrels. Thanks
again, I appreciate your input and always learn more when I ask questions.
Question:
A customer brought in a Hesse model H91 that wont eject a fired shell. It will eject a shell manually. I bought the AGI H&K armorers course unfortunately it does not address this issue. Can
someone give me some pointers?
Answer:
Is the fired case in the chamber? In the ejection port? Laying on top of the feeding round? Does
52
the extractor hold correctly? Is it tearing thru the case rim or letting go? Is the chamber rough
and dirty and pitted? What shells are the customer using, handloads? Factory loads?
Reply:
Extractor, sometimes it is laying on top of the next round. But the majority is, it is still in the extractor and re-feeds into the chamber. The extractor holds the round very well; there is no damage to the casing, unless it is laying on the next round. There is not tearing or marking on the rim.
The chamber is in good condition, not dirty or pitted. The shells used to fire are surplus military
ammo, 7.62 x 51 ball.
Answer:
OK good, we know the extractor is working so lets look at the ejector. Make sure it has full depth
in the ejector slot in the bolt face. If it doesnt that may be your culprit. The bolt with case comes
back and the case slips by the ejector some how. Look into that. It may also be that the gun is
short cycling. Make sure the bolt and all the parts work smoothly with one another. Make sure
the bolt doesnt drag in the receiver. Ken
Reply:
Very good, but how do you check that. The ejector works when you manually do it, it is only
when you fire the gun that it does not work. I also think it has something to do with the Ejector.
On the short cycling how do you check that, that sounds like another possibility?
Answer:
Move the bolt to the rear slowly and when the ejector is up in position, before it would hit the
shell it should have good depth or engagement in the ejector slot in the bolt. Then with the ejector flush with the breech face make sure you cannot force it away from the breech face so the
shell MUST hit the ejector. As far as short cycles put two shells in the mag. and shoot one and see
if the MT stays on the breech face under the extractor and the live round will be trying to feed
out of the magazine.
Question:
I have mounted many scopes on pre drilled rifles but I have not drilled holes in barrels/receivers.
Whats the best way to do this?
The Forester fixture looks like a good tool to avoid errors. I have a large Craftsman bench mount
drill press. Of course its made in China. I thought a mill table for the drill press & the Forester
fixture might be a workable combination.
Answer:
The Forester fixture is great and I use it often. You really dont NEED the mill table but it is nice.
So if you want get those things and I really recommend the Forester fixture.
Reply:
Thanks for the advice. One more thing on this subject; do you have a recommendation of brands/
types of drill bits?
53
Answer:
We get the high speed drills from Brownells and as they break or dull we sharpen them ourselves.
I do have a few of the carbide #31 drills as well.
Question:
I bought a Spanish Mauser advertised as a 308 WIN. It came with a tag with 308 WIN on it. I
bought this rifle to practice my custom rifle building skills. I also have a book by Jerry Kuhnhausen. Jerry says that the Spanish Mausers are chambered for the 7.62 CETME round and its chamber pressure operating range is considerably less than the 308 WIN and the action is not strong
enough for the 308 WIN. Should I trust the advertised tag or trust Jerry Kuhnhausen and trash
the action or rechamber for a weaker round?
Answer:
Well that will depend a lot on what you are or were going to do. If you are going for a full blown
custom job then you will do sooo much to the gun that it will be tighter and better in every
respect. You will NEED to have the action reheat treated and that will make it strong enough
for the .308 round. If you were just wanting to restock and maybe reblue with no reheat treat
then they are soft and you will not want to shoot it. You dont mention which model of Spanish
Mauser you have one of the later LaCoronas or one of the earlier 93-95 series of Mausers, but it
doesnt matter they ALL NEED TO BE REHEAT TREATED. I get a lot of questions from students and
customers about this and there is so much misinformation out there. So many places say dont
shoot them or use them to build guns on as they are soft, and that is correct, but you CAN reheat treat them and they are just fine then. While we are on this topic I just had a customer call
me and ask about heat treatment. He was going to heat treat his bolt and action and then do a
bunch of work to it. That is also a NO-NO as Mausers are basically case hardened and after you
heat treat it you dont want to do some work and wear thru the surface hardened area, do all the
work you are going to do to the gun prior to heat treat. Sorry this is a long answer but it is important, if the action or bolt are not heat treated correctly the gun will develop headspace rapidly
and/or be unsafe.
Question:
I have had two 742s come in with the bolts locked closed. Both customers had used a hammer to
open them and they locked right back. I did not use a hammer but took the guns apart. The first
one I found a small pin lying inside under the fire control. I couldnt see anything else so I clean
and put back together and it worked find on the bench and I fired four rounds. All was good so I
give it back and havent heard a word. I just got another one in, same thing only I didnt find the
pin out. I havent test fired but it works great on the bench. Whats the deal? You know I really
like the segments in GunTech where Bob and Ken check out the new guns.
Answer:
Check to see that the bolt is not cracked or broken. Check to see that the bolt/carrier assembly has
the cam pin as well as the op handle. Make sure the bolt carrier is tight in the action bars. Make
sure the barrel isnt burred from the bolt lock failing to work and allowing the bolt to rotate
some as it is trying to close. Remember these are old and parts are obsolete and they wear themselves out as they work, or try to work. Ken
54
Reply:
Thanks. Thats what I did. I fired the second one and it works fine. The second pin is not working
freely clean. I think maybe cleaning more would work better the old WD 40 cleaning job dont
work so good.
Question:
I have a Savage 99 that I need to do a little work on. This is my first time working on a lever gun.
Any one know of a website where I can get a schematic without paying an arm& leg for it. Its
having extractor issues. Semper Fi.
Answer:
If you are a student, then Jack First has all the schematics. If you dont have Jack First or Numrich,
then I suppose I could get you a schematic. Not sure how a schematic will help you with the A/D
of the gun or the problem with the extraction
Reply:
Thank you for your reply. Normally, I like to have a schematic on hand if its the first time disassembly. To answer your question. No Im not a student but I have sent /waiting for the Gunsmithing course information. After spending 20 plus years in the Marine Corps I now have a little time
to pursue my passion of gunsmithing, so if you could have those guys speed up the info?
Answer:
We cover Assembly/Disassembly of the Savage 99 in GunTech issue #3. - Jack
Question:
I have just gotten a .17 cal. single shot from New England Firearms it is the Sportster model .17
Mach 2. I am getting split casings about every 5 shots. I have marked the casings with a permanent marker on the top. When I eject them the splits are on the bottom of the cartridge starting
from the top of the bottle neck on some and on others it splits on the shoulder and some split all
the way down to the rim. The primers are not buldged either. I have tested both Hornandy and
CCI and gotten the same results about every 5 shots. If anyone could give me some info on this
that would be great.
Answer:
Since the heads arent puffed up like the gun has headspace it is that the chamber is oversized. It
splits on the bottom because the extractor is pushing the case up to the top of the chamber and
when it expands under pressure it is always down.
Question:
I have to remove the stock from a Winchester Model 1903 rifle that has a stuck safety. Does anyone know if there is a wrench made for the circular nut that holds the stock on to the magazine
tube? If not, then I guess Ill have to make one.
55
Answer:
I am sure somewhere there is a wrench for it but I am unaware it. You will probably have to make
one. We make a lot of wrenches etc. for older guns or guns we dont want to wait for a wrench
to show up in the mail to fix not to mention it is cheaper to just make one. We use a lot of old
barrels that are no good to make tools out of.
Question:
How hard do the sear surfaces on a Ruger M-77 need to be? When I checked it with a file it didnt
seem to be hardened. It had some tool marks on it so I removed them.
Answer:
Ruger uses stainless steel for the sears on their M-77s, I assume we are speaking of the current
M-77 Mark IIs, so you will be able to cut them with a file. They are not as hard as could be with
real steel. We polish out the machine marks as well, and you shouldnt need to harden it. If it is
butter soft you will need to harden it and I have seen some Ruger parts that should have been
hard that were soft and some parts that should have been soft that were hard, so each Ruger will
need to be checked.
Reply:
What about the earlier M-77 with the tang safety? Do they use stainless steel for the sears?
Answer:
I dont remember. Check it out with some cold blue that will tell you. But the rules still apply positive, smooth, etc, etc. And they may be soft.
Question:
Had a 760 come in for a stock refinish and clean and oil. While disassembled for clean and oil I
noticed there is no bolt carrier spring. So I ordered one. Reassembled it with the new spring and it
wont lock-up. Took out the spring and shortened it still wont lock-up. Disassemble again and try
the spring out of my personal 760 and still wont lock-up. Is it possible some early models did not
have the spring? Looks to me like all it does is make unlocking easier?
Answer:
OK, I kept shortening the spring until it locked up. I only have two coils left. The clearance on
the action bar lock is only .008 feeler gauge will fit, .011 wont fit, Bob says 10-20 thousands. The
action bar release button is a little hard to press. In the 760 tape Bob took the bolt apart and the
spring in that was like a pen spring on the firing pin. The springs in the ones I have are bigger
and slip down around the bottom of the firing pin.(way down where the inner bolt goes down
around the firing pin). Still trying to figure this one out.
Reply:
Took out the spring and reassembled. The clearance on the action bar lock is 33 tho. Bob says he
likes about 20, but Remington says 40.
56
Answer:
It seems to me that there are some that do not have a spring. DO NOT QUOTE ME ON THAT. Let
me do some research and get back with you.
Reply:
Seems kind of odd some would have it and some wouldnt. Everything else looks the same to me.
Answer:
Well as I remembered some (most) do not have anything there. I know many of the diagrams
have a spring pictured but sooooooo many guns especially the older ones just do not have it. The
autos need it because they close so much faster and the firing pin could hit a soft primer and the
gun go off. Bob says that the early 760s didnt have the spring and he cant remember the new
ones having one either.
Reply:
Thanks, My .35 Rem, was manufactured in 1979-80 and it does have the spring.
Question:
Is there an easy way to install a non-captive Glock mainspring?
Answer:
Mainspring or recoil spring? Havent had that much problems installing recoil springs.
Reply:
I purchased a Wolff spring set from Midway and also a steel guide rod (non captive) so far I have
not been able to install the recoil spring and guide rod. Sorry: I am trying to install the recoil
spring and steel guide rod in an old Glock 17.
Answer:
First see if you can install the guide rod without the recoil spring on it. You may have to fit the
recoil guide before you can install the spring. Make sure it fits where it is supposed to and everything works as it should.
Question:
I have some touch up bluing to do on a Win Model 88.My question is how do I determine if it is a
pre or post 64? If it is pre 64 will it take the blue or should I just not do it. Gregg (Ken left message for you under 88 safety) Also is 64 considered pre or post? Thanks again Gregg
Answer:
1964 is the year that Winchester made several changes, on a model 70 it is easy to tell if it is a pre64 style or post as I believe they made both styles that year. As far as the other guns I dont know,
you will probably have both new and old style. Both should take the touch up blue. Ken
57
Reply:
I remember in the rifle course that you must remove the black chrome plating (this was in the
model 94 section). Does this pertain to model 94 only? I believe this is on post 64 94s. So did they
only do this type of bluing on 94s post 64? and are the newer ones still that way? This was the era
that they cheapened them. It must have been more cost effective for them to use this different
type of bluing.
Answer:
Yes that only pertains to the model 94, and yes the newer ones (post 64). Too bad they cheapened
those guns so much.
Reply:
Heres another one for you. The factory bluing is blue or black. Why is this? Do different brands
come in different color? This Model 88 I just touched up was black. (The Blue Wonder I use comes
in black and in blue). I first did it with blue and it didnt look so good. I redid it with black and it
turned out REAL NICE. When you look at a gun how can you tell if it is black or blue from the factory?
Then if I know if it is blue or black I can get it right the first time.
Answer:
I dont have any idea. If a gun needs bluing I reblue it. If it has a scratch or burred up part I just
touch it up as the customer knows it will be a touch up unless they want to pay to have it blued.
Question:
Im getting a Savage 110 ,cal.243, and I was told that you have to ram rod the casing out after firing the gun. What are some of the causes of this type of malfunction? Any tips on where to start
would be a great help.
Answer:
OK, the first thing to do is to make a quick examination of the gun, does it have an extractor, is it
in the correct position (not rusted in the open or outward position), is there rust in the chamber?
Those are the first quick things you can look for. After that a good chamber polish even if the
chamber is not rusty is not a bad idea. Fit the extractor so it holds on tight to the shell and has the
correct angles. See what you got first then go from there. You may want to find out if the loads
are factory or HOT hand loads. Ken
Reply:
Thanks for the quick response, Ill buff the chamber first, and hope that takes care of this problem. Thanks again, and MAN, what great learning tools the AGI DVDs are!
Question:
I recently purchased a Rossi combo/youth model (S45YRM) at a gun show. It had been completely
disassembled and the owner couldnt figure out how to put it back together. I got all the parts
(hopefully) in a Tupperware box. Can anyone get me started on how to put this thing back toWARNING: This is provided as general information only. Situations may vary. Consult a professional gunsmith regarding questions for
58
gether? Im not far enough into the course to really understand where to begin. I cant even get a
schematic from Rossi for this model. Any help or tips will be greatly appreciated.
Answer:
At this point your best bet is to watch the portion of the videos on the single shot shotguns. It
will take me quite some time to explain how to reassemble it in detail. Do you have any of it back
together?
Reply:
So far I have generic schematic, and can figure out where everything goes, just not sure about the
order of reassembly and the hammer spring in particular. Ill go back thru the videos for something similar. Shouldnt be a real killer type thing, but probably has some sort of pre-determined
order of assembly. I would still appreciate any tips from anyone to offset the old trial and error
method.
Answer:
Its all together and seems to be working properly. No left over parts, safeties work, Im almost
proud of myself. The trick was in using a slave pin I made from an old paintbrush handle. The
trigger mech. has to be assembled before it goes into the receiver, and the trigger mech. pin goes
thru the recvr. Took a little bit extra thought, but I got it. Thanks for reading and responding. Im
gonna buy myself a beer and gloat.
Reply:
By all means, get a beer and enjoy it. I think everyone who takes a box of parts and reassembles
it and gets a gun should take pride in themselves. ESPECIALLY if they have never had that specific
model apart before. I want all the AGI students to be able to do that. If you use your head, and
you did cause you figured out you needed a slave pin for reassembly, you should be able to reassemble most guns.
Question:
I have a Marlin .22 Glenfield mod. 25 I need to replace the cartridge guide as it is broken. I have
disassembled the gun and taken out the barrel pin but I cant separate the barrel from the receiver so I can make the replacement. Does anyone know how to separate them? Any help would be
great thanks.
Answer:
Well there are a couple of things you can do. The first, quickest, dirtiest, and most likely to damage something is to spread your vice just wide enough to allow the barrel to slide thru but not
the receiver and then holding onto the barrel ram the receiver into the vice and let momentum
pull the barrel out of the receiver. The other method is to make a mandrel that fits thru the receiver and hits the back of the barrel. Make it big enough as to just slip thru the receiver and rest
against the barrel. Clamp the receiver and drive the barrel off. Make sure your mandrel does not
damage the edge of the chamber.
Answer:
Had another guy drill 2 holes like a figure 8 in an oak 2 x 4 that were just the barrel/mag tube
diameter. Clamped that in a vice and drove the barrel and receiver down thru it. Receiver stopped
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when it hit the block, barrel continued out the bottom. Pretty slick. - Jack
Question:
I was hoping someone may be able to give me some advice. I recently had someone bring me a
Winchester 1906 in pretty rough shape. The finish is pretty much completely gone and the barrel
and receiver are a brown patina. Functionally its just about perfect. Looking up the serial number
puts this rifle in the first year of manufacture (1906). My question is will a good re-finishing job
to original specs (slow rust, etc) help or hurt any value this may have as of right now? Any info
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Answer:
We tell our customers that if a gun with collector value is refinished it detracts from the value and
you have a shooter only. WITH that being said you can refinish it to original condition but to do it
will/would cost more than the gun is worth even after it is restored. My advice if the gun is to be
used at all and not just a collectors piece, leave it as is and enjoy the patina look. If the refinish
job isnt done 100% right the gun will look bad and be obvious that it has been redone. Hopefully others will log on here and give their two cents worth.
Answer:
You can have the gun restored back to its original finish and it wont detract from it value. With
that said, whoever you get to refinish the gun has to be able to do the job exactly how it was
done by the manufacturer or like Ken said, you will have about half of what the gun was worth
before the mistake was made.
There are numerous books on this subject available, but one that you can most likely find at the
local library is Gun Collectors Digest by Joseph J. Schroeder Jr. It will give details on how the
manufacturer finished the gun in the beginning which is the only acceptable way to have it refinished if you want to keep the guns value.
Some guns that are refinished correctly will add as much as 50% to the value depending on how
bad the gun is to begin with, but on average, you can expect only about 20-25% increase. This
has to be taken into consideration when you are contemplating the job. Find out what the guns
value is by either getting a copy of the book of Firearms, the Collectors Price and Reference
Guide or the various other gun value books or you can carry it to someone that appraises gun
values. The local Pawn shop will usually have someone that can appraise fairly close as well.
Then contact a list of folks that do restore jobs on firearms and I am not referring to local gunsmiths here. Get on the net and do a search on Antique restorers of collectable guns. Ask them
about a restore on your gun and find out what they will be doing as well as the cost and compare
this to the value your gun is worth now and add 25% to the gun and see if you will gain very
much compared to what you have invested already and the additional cost of the restore. If you
will gain enough value to justify the expense of the restore and you feel comfortable with the
man you want to do the job, then by all means go for it. Just make sure that he has several references that you can talk to and make sure that he has insurance just in case he messes the gun up.
Hope this helps you out with the decision. Ken is basically correct in what he tells his customers because it usually wont help much in the value of the gun due to the costs of a really good
restore job, but there are a few exceptions to every rule. Most collectors dont mind a ding or two
or the patina that old guns will develop. I know a few that only buy safe queens, but most know
what they are looking at when they see a collectable gun to begin with.
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Question:
I have a customer with a Western Field Model 50 (which I believe to be a generic Savage 29) .22
rifle. When the action is worked, all the cartridges feed into the receiver. There is no cartridge
stop. The schematics I have show what looks like a ball that is called a cartridge stop, but I cant
see how it is supposed to work or what keeps it in place. Can anyone help me with this oldie?
Answer:
Lets make sure we are talking about the same gun. In my references the Western Field model 50
is a Glenfield model 60. The Glenfield 60 is the same as a Marlin model 99c or a model 5. Is the
gun a pump action or an auto?
Reply:
Yes, there is some confusion on the model number. This rifle is a pump which the NRA Guide
identifies as a 29A/29B, but it has a few minor differences. However, the rifle Bob Dunlap uses for
AGI Gunsmithing Course CD on the Savage 29 (disc #18) is very different in that Bobs rifle breaks
the receiver into two halves. This receiver is not split that way. There is no model number shown
on the rifle. The customer claims it is a Western Field M-50, but I think it may be a model 80. I
did find a serial number inside the receiver on the bottom plate (above and ahead of the trigger
guard). It is 121999K, and that is the only number stamped anywhere. I seem to be a collecting
spot for all these oddball guns!! Help!
Answer:
OK the cartridge stop on a model 29 Savage is a lever, but I cant remember if it works up and
down or in and out (left to right). I believe the bolt itself is what activates it. I am sorry we have
to go off of my memory. Bob is the one that has the great memory ONLY when it comes to how
to disassemble and reassemble a gun he saw once 26 years ago. He really amazes me with those
old guns. Maybe it is just that when he started soooooooo long ago they were more common
than they are now and he has just worked on so many that he knows them well, that sounds
better and that is what I am going to believe. Let me know what you find out on this gun. I will
touch base with Bob and see what he has to say.
Reply:
OK Ken. By the way, Numrich shows a cartridge stop, pin, and guide spring for the Savage 29A
& B. This is a lever arrangement like you remember. But, this rifle is different from this model in
some respects. It more closely resembles the Savage model 29, which Numrich does not show. Jack
First does show the model 29, and the cartridge cut-off shown there is a steel ball. Neither outfit
shows how the parts go together. Anyway, please let me know what Bob says.
Answer:
The lever and ball arrangement both work the same way. There is a recess in the action bar that
allows the cartridge stop to move into it when the gun is closed. When the action is opened the
cartridge stop is pushed into the receiver and prevents the second shell from feeding out of the
magazine, while allowing the first shell to slide by.
Question:
I have a guy who wants to build an 8mm Mauser into a .223. Is there anything specifically that has
to be done to the bolt face and extractor to have it feed the smaller case? I know the Charles Daly
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guns look to have a smaller bolt face, but I am interested in the using the existing bolt. Thanks for
any information.
Answer:
I would turn that job down if it came into our shop. The bolt face has to be shrunk quite a bit.
The extractor would have to be rebuilt extensively. Making it feed would be a pain in the neck.
He would have more money into that conversion than just going out and buying a new gun in
that caliber. The other option is to build a .22-250 as the bolt face is the same as the 8mm. I have
built many 98s into .22-250s. If he has to have the .223 on the standard 98 tell him it will take
time and a lot of money. The bolt face and extractor can be welded up and made to work for
the .223 size. Feeding will be VERY difficult as you will have to weld up the feed rails and rebuild
them. I would try to adapt a detachable magazine to gun and not worry about the feed rails.
Again you will HAVE to have the heat treat redone and the extractor tempered. The Charles Daly
.223 mini Mausers sell for a great deal less than what it is going to cost him. Good luck and tell us
all what happens.
Reply:
Thanks for the info Ken. From this afternoons conversation, he wants to just use a bolt from a
Charles Daly Mini-Mauser. I suggested that he just buy the mini-Mauser and be done with the
gun. I will suggest converting to the 22-250 which was going to be my next question about which
caliber do you think would be the best conversion for him to use as a varmint round.
Answer:
You could also mention to him that the Mini Mauser action is a MUCH smaller action and that the
bolt will not fit a 98 action any more than a Ruger 22/77 bolt will. I built a couple of .17 Remingtons on Mini Mauser actions and they are terrific for anything a .223 will do and they absolutely
vaporize ground squirrels.
Question:
I have a Browning Auto Rifle that has a stuck ejector. The ejector is flush with the bolt face. I have
removed the pin that keeps the ejector and spring in place. It will not come out. Any ideas on
how to remove the ejector?? I would bet the spring is broken.
Answer:
Best way I know is to dribble Kroil or Liquid Wrench in to the cross pin hole with the front of the
bolt down. Usually it will work its way past the gunk or corrosion and start to show up around
the ejector. Set the bolt up on its face and let it go over night. Usually it will be freed enough that
you can push it in with a punch, although some times you have to whack that punch with a hammer. Once you get it free, it will usually come out forward, if not, push it all the way back with a
punch and look at the inside of the hole. You will probably see some rust or corrosion so CAREFULLY scrape it out with a dental pick that has been flattened at the tip. Worst comes to worst,
you can fill the back side of the hole with Kroil and apply a soft flame to the front of the bolt.
Just heat until the Kroil smokes! Do not get it so hot that it changes colors; you DO NOT want to
screw up the heat treat. You can always put it in to a 300 degree oven for about a half hour. After
its hot, carefully follow the preceding steps.
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Question:
Im trying to remove the barrel from an old Mauser. It just will not come lose. Any ideas???
Because I did not want to save the barrel I did grind flats on two sides to get a better grip on the
barrel, this did not help...
Answer:
OK since you are not keeping the barrel this is really easy, cut a relief groove at the junction
where the barrel shoulder comes into contact with the receiver. Dont cut the receiver just the
barrel where it contacts the receiver. This relieves the tension of the barrel on the receiver. Of the
20-30 barrels Ive had to do this to, they all unscrewed by hand afterward. I usually put the barrel in the lathe and use a cut off tool or a hack saw to cut just to the depth of the threads. If you
scratch or mar the receiver you can clean it up later.
Question:
I recently bought the Mauser videos that you made and have a couple of questions for you.
First, in the video, you suggested lapping the lugs to where all three lugs were bearing. My question is would this induce bad accuracy since the third lug bears only on the bottom of the receiver
and would cause a bind in the bolt somehow? The reason I ask is that I have heard through the
years to always make sure the bolt doesnt touch since this will cause vibrations that can cause erratic accuracy. Just curious as to what your thoughts are on this.
Second, in the video, the receiver you were machining did not look like it was turning concentric.
I noticed that you did not run a tap into the threads to make sure they were concentric either,
could this be a reason for that. The reason I ask is that from the other videos on doing receiver
work, Mr. Holland always uses the tap to make sure the threads are concentric before doing the
machine work on the front shoulder of the receiver. I may be wrong about it, but to me if the
receiver threads arent concentric to the receiver, then the work you did on the barrel and receiver wouldnt make much difference if this isnt done first. Also, when you used the dial calipers
to check the barrel shoulder, you came up with different measurements. Why would you not take
the time to machine them to make them equal? It just seems to me that tightening the barrel
up snug to the shoulder that isnt machined would cause erratic vibrations as well. The reason I
ask about this is that I plan to do a build and machine the shoulder so as to make it fit perfectly.
Would you think this is a waste of time or should I not machine it at all due to some other reason?
I would appreciate any information you can share with me on this. I know you didnt say you
were trying to make the rifle shoot as accurate as you could and this may very well be the reason
you didnt do what I was asking about. If you rebarrel a rifle though, shouldnt that be your goal?
Thanks.
Answer:
OK the third safety lug contacting is contacting as well as the front two lugs. When the round is
fired the whole bolt takes the rearward thrust, there would not be any bind on the bolt. There
would if only the rear lug was touching or if only one of the front lugs and the rear lug were
touching. The third lug touching will not be the cause of bad accuracy. We have built multiple
Mauser 98 rifles with the safety lug contacting and the accuracy was/is very good. The reason for
the safety lug to contact is safety. As I mentioned in the video when that lug is contacting the
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strength of the system is increased by one third.

Now as far as the threads being concentric, the action mandrel fits thru the whole receiver where
the bolt rides. When the face of the receiver is trued to that surface the barrel will tighten down
even with that surface. The barrel will be in line with the bolt. That is why we use a mandrel thru
the receiver. If the threads were off to where it would make a difference the mandrel would not
screw into the receiver, the back would bind in the receiver, then the threads would have to be
trued to the bolt position. The bolt face on Mausers are always a bit oversized so the cartridge
will fit in the barrel and not bind on the bolt face. The reason the measurements from the front
of the receiver varied have to do with the inner ring. They are never true and by the receiver
threads are often rounded or some even have a small step in them. Again I dont true up that
shoulder as there is no real reason to. The barrel shoulder needs to touch that surface to insure as
much of the cartridge case is supported in the barrel as possible. If the barrel touches that shoulder and not the face of the receivers then you would have problems. There is a tap on the market
to re-tap or fresh out Mauser threads, this tap will follow along the same line as the original tap
when the receiver was manufactured, so you would end up with the same problem if the threads
are off so bad the barrel fits crooked in the receiver. I do not know of anyone who makes a tap
with a guide that fits in the receiver like they have for the Remington 700s. I have seen one
Mauser that had the problem you describe and the fix was a very lengthy process of fitting the
receiver in the 4 jaw chuck of the lathe and truing the receiver off of the bolt raceway. Then remachine the threads on the lathe. When we build a rifle we try to do all that we can for accuracy.
Much of what we did will help with accuracy as well as make the gun stronger and safer. If you
are concerned with the receiver threads on your gun look at the original barrel, (before you pull
it off), if it sits crooked you might have to really look into why it is crooked. Again I have found
that it is usually the face of the receiver is not true so when the barrel is tightened down one side
touches and the barrel is pushed one way or the other making it appear as though the barrel is
crooked in the receiver. That is why we always true the receiver face. If you have just an action
with out a barrel and you are concerned about this potential problem you may want to take an
old barrel or a piece of steel and thread it and fit it up to the receiver and see how it fits. Then if
it fits crooked figure out why it is crooked first and address that problem. Great questions, hope
this answers them. Ken.
Reply:
Thanks for the quick reply and very helpful answers. When I was talking with an older smith that I
know, he questioned me on why the safety lug was brought into bearing and his reply was along
the lines that it didnt need to bear and if it did the Germans or whoever made it would have
done so at that time. Had me second guessing the reasoning behind the safety. I am glad to hear
that you havent had any accuracy problems with it.
The explanation dealing with concentricity makes sense to me as you explained it. As to dealing
with the threads, would you recommend me not worrying about chasing the threads unless I had
trouble threading the barrel on? I have run into a couple that gave me trouble with binding and
the tap chased the thread and made it tighten up without a problem.
One last question and Ill let you go on the matter. If I machine the inner ring and then have the
receiver heat treated, would you think this would cause me any problems down the road? I may
be a little anal about the details, but I want everything to be as perfect as possible within reasoning.
Reply:
The safety lug bearing only has to do with making the gun stronger. If only the front two lugs
touch and not the rear, and an overload occurs and the front two lugs let go the third is supposed
64
to come into contact and stop the set back. If there is an overload and the front two lugs let go
the third isnt going to stop the bolt. It will slow it down some. With the third lug touching right
from the start the whole system is stronger and will take more pressure before the gun gives up
the ghost.
Chasing the threads is not a bad idea, I dont because I fit the barrel to thread in and snug up as
it comes into contact with the inner ring. The threads in the receiver have a slight taper to them
as they were cut originally with a tap so they will seem loose at first then get tighter as you go. If
you have had good luck with re-tapping the receiver then by all means go ahead.
As far as machining the inner ring, go ahead BUT make sure that when the bolt is inserted and
locked up that the bolt and the two protrusions that are on each side of the ejector slot, do NOT
extend forward past the inner ring. We want the barrel to extend as far back toward the bolt as
possible so the cartridge is encased in as much of the barrel as possible. If the bolt and the two
protrusions extend beyond the face of the inner ring you will have to move the bolt back and
that means you are decreasing the amount of locking lugs you have. Or you will have to machine
an area into the back of the barrel for the bolt or protrusions to fit when the bolt is closed. This is
a pain and unnecessary.
Question:
I have 2 AK-47s in to have the receiver ground open -- from a 10 round mag to a large cap. mag
opening..... Where can I get a template -- to use as a guide to use when I use my Dremel tool to
grind out the opening???
Answer:
I dont know of a template made for this alteration. Maybe someone out there does, if so let
us know. I wouldnt use a template anyway; just get your new mag and check to see where you
need to remove metal. Take some measurements etc. then when you go to remove metal take
out LESS than you think you need. Then check the fit with the mag. Continue this until it fits and
works. Tim, way too many people put too much importance on specs. and templates. Make the
parts work and work correctly. The templates are just guidelines, 9 out of 10 times after a part is
altered to a template or to the spec the part wont work correctly. Now what do you do?? You
will have to make the parts fit and work and the template and spec didnt mean a thing. Learn
how the gun works and how the parts should fit then make them do what they are supposed
to do when they are supposed to do it. I am not picking on you, this is a concept that SO many
people have and they have to learn to overcome it. If a part doesnt work who cares what the
spec is?? Just make it work. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Reply:
I used my mag to trace and started on the 1st one...made by Maddi---a good heavy receiver...went
well--about 1 1/2 hour.... the next one was easier...Romanian receiver--a lot thinner and it took
about 45 mins... works great and have customers happy!... Thanks!
Question:
What would cause a bolt to not come out/unlock of a M98? Customer says he did something with
the safety in the wrong position, and it released the firing pin and locked the bolt.
Answer:
There are a couple of things I can think of right off the bat, first the firing pin could be broken. If
65
the firing pin is broken behind the firing pin flange then the mainspring is forcing the firing pin
forward and the safety flange portion of the firing pin into its recess in the bolt. Normally when
the bolt is cocked the firing pin is withdrawn via the cocking piece out of the safety flange recess
and the bolt rotates so the safety flange does not line up with the recess in the bolt. So if the pin
is broken as described above the bolt cannot rotate because the front half of the firing pin is in its
recess preventing rotation. If this is the case the cocking piece should not have any spring tension
on it. Another cause can be if the gun was fired with a hot load or a steady diet of warm loads
over time, the lugs will set back into the receiver. Now to cock the gun the bolt has to move forward out of the recess formed and compress the cartridge case in the chamber and the bolt sleeve
lock spring and the firing pin spring all at the same time. Yet another cause can be if the front of
the cocking piece breaks off. Now there is nothing to rotate the cocking piece, and pull the firing
pin back. The safety itself may be binding on the cocking piece. The trigger system may be out of
adjustment so the cocking piece cannot move back because the sear is behind it and not being
pushed down out of the way.
Question:
Ken, I have had several guns come in lately that the scope mount is off to one side or the other
so far that it is not possible to adjust the windage screws to compensate for the difference. I have
milled a couple mounts to correct this, but is there easier way that you or anybody does to fix
this ill. I had a Black Diamond come in that the drilling for the scope mounts was out of line, that
one I recommended he return to T/C. I figured I could plug it and re-drill, but on such a new gun
I figured T/C would replace it and make it right anyway. I have a Colt .44 mag in the shop now it
has a Redfield scope and a one piece rail on it. The customer brought it in bottomed out on the
windage and it is still at least 4 inches off on the collimator. I could put adjustable rings on, but
the gun, scope, base and rings are all the same camo pattern and he doesnt want to change anything. Any Suggestions Mike
Answer:
Good questions, when the scope base is installed crooked and you dont want to plug and re-drill
and tap for whatever reason you can alter the bottom of the scope base so the base itself leans
the direction you need to move the scope. Now the scope can collimate. NOW with that said,
someone will call us or e-mail us and say that the base is not in line with the barrel and so if the
gun is sighted in at 100 yards it will be off at, say 200 yards. This is true but remember that it will
not be enough to worry about on a basic hunting rifle/handgun and your customer wont even be
able to tell. (Most target shooters wont be able to tell either). Remember that the guns produced
today are made in mass quantities on computer operated machines, they are very good, BUT NOT
PERFECT, your TC is an example of this. MANY factory guns (and custom guns for that matter) are
not plumb with the bore. The above mentioned fix can alter the point of impact by quite a bit, up
to 12 inches depending on what type of bases youre altering. The other method of repair is to
drift the existing scope base hole the direction needed with a small burr in your Foredom/Dremel
tool, now take the correct drill for the next size tap and drill the hole so it is round and true. Retap to the larger size and the base will now sit true. Hope this has helped, if not keep asking and
well get you squared away.
Answer:
On this particular set-up, you can machine the bottom of the 1 piece base so that it tapers from
rear to front. If you need to go, say 10 down at 25 yards and the rings are 4 apart, you will
need to make the base .048 thinner under the front ring than under the rear. - Jack
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Question:
Now for a different problem. What are the precautions needed when mounting a side mount for
a scope on a Model 94. Is there a guide as to where to drill and tap so the scope will indeed be in
the right place for this top ejecting gun?
Answer:
OK tell your customer how the gun works. With that done you can mount the scope offset to one
side, the left side, Weaver makes a mount that has the scope offset some and then you can adjust
the extractor and ejector some so the MT cases are ejected to the right ever so slightly. You can
mount a scout scope on the gun forward of the receiver, or you can try and convince the customer
to get a new style Winchester 94 that has side ejection. To put the scope directly over the bolt is
asking for problems. The gun will eject some times but not very often. Sometimes the MT will hit
the scope and bounce off to one side or the other, but the customer is always right so do what he
wants but cover your A** and tell him to expect jams when the MT fails to clear the scope and
ends up on the top of the loaded round trying to feed or worse yet wont eject off of the bolt
face as the mouth of the case hits the bottom of the scope and the extractor is still holding onto
the case.
Question:
Customer brought in a Marlin Camp 9 and says it will not chamber. I cannot get the bolt to close
with a dummy round in Mag. Is there a secret to getting the bolt to close or is there a problem
with the hold open latch? Disassembly books no help on operation of bolt closing.
Answer:
OK, you dont mention if the bolt closes without shells in the mag or with the mag removed or
without any cartridges in the mag, so check all these things out. Now you say that the bolt wont
close and then ask if there is a problem with the hold open latch? Is the bolt trying to close at all?
There is a problem with these we often encounter after some one has taken them apart to clean
and that is the ramp will move forward and get under the barrel. Then the shells will stub on the
bottom of the barrel every time. Look for that. Look into what is holding the bolt open, take out
a part i.e., the hold open lever then see if the gun operates correctly, then take out another part,
eventually youll find out what is causing the problems.
Reply:
Ken, I appreciate your reply. It was indeed that someone had taken it apart and the feed ramp
was under the barrel. The bullets-dummies- were hitting the barrel edge and jamming. I reassembled it with the feed ramp in the proper position and checked it with dummies then fired three
rounds in fairly rapid succession. Did all the safety checks and its ready to be picked up.
Now; that is another topic. This is a valuable board. We need all the members to check it daily, we
need a lot of participation and the members of the Inner Circle will become what they want to
be, good gunsmiths.
Question:
I have a model 70 Winchester that someone has messed with the trigger and the bolt will not
cock. He wants the trigger to be 3lbs. I can make the bolt cock but I am wondering if there is any
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way except honing the trigger sear notch to reduce the trigger pull. Advice is welcome.
Answer:
OK triggers are fun, although when wrong can be a headache. I would like to know more about
why it was not cocking? Was it altered or just adjusted incorrectly? You can adjust the pull using
the adjustment screws for spring tension and over travel, but if the gun has creep as you pull the
trigger then you will have to hone the sear. Just de-creep the sear where it engages the trigger.
REMEMBER THAT THIS AREA MUST BE POSITIVE. Let me know how the trigger was messed with
as this may cause some other problems with the gun cocking...
Reply:
The nuts on the trigger bolt adjustment look like the have been attacked with pliers and I know
that un-messed with triggers have a coat of hot glue on them. I dont think the sear engagement has been messed with. I have done one of these and got three pounds out of it but this one
when set manually with forward pressure on the trigger will indicate about 3.2 pounds. I suppose
I will try to get it back near seven pounds with the adjustment nuts and the maybe give the sear
a slight hone to see if I can bring it down from that point and if I reduce it by one pound, then
work with the adjustment nuts. Does this sound like a good approach? And I need to know just
where to hone the sear. I think I need to take some of the forward edge off but still keep it positive. Thanks for the help.
Answer:
Before you do anything I think I would get the AGI video on triggers. It covers a great deal. No,
I am not trying to promote it for my own benefit as I did not make that tape, but you will learn
a lot. You state that you can set the trigger at 3.2 lbs, I assume it fails to stay cocked all the time
when jarred etc. So you need to find out why it fails to stay cocked. I wouldnt set it back at 7 lbs.
if youre going to try and adjust it to 3 lbs. There has to be a reason it wont stay cocked. Is the
system negative? Does the cocking piece override the sear when the bolt is closed while the trigger is still in the cocked position? (I mention this cause we have seen several lately that this will
occur). How are you measuring the pull weight if the gun wont stay cocked? Before you hone
any parts analyze the trigger system and find out why the gun fails to stay cocked. You should
hone the sear only to reduce engagement (remove creep) or to re-cut the sear to make it positive.
If the sear is VERY positive you can stone it to make it LESS positive. But it MUST REMAIN POSITIVE. I do not believe it is positive or the gun would remain cocked. Remember that the trigger
notch itself must be positive also. YOU ARE AS NEGATIVE AS YOUR MOST NEGATIVE PART. If the
trigger is positive and the sear slightly negative the system is slightly negative. (These capitol letters are to emphasize the importance of the topic). I do suggest you get the AGI course on triggers. Please keep us informed as to your progress and good luck, Ken
Reply:
The reason the gun would not cock is because someone had loosened he nuts so far that there
was no pressure on the trigger spring. I understand about being POSITIVE. All that looks good
and I will review that tape. I think they are an excellent source of really good information.
Right now I have it back to where it will cock every time and stay cocked, simply by putting pressure on the spring. The way I made it cock before was to use my fingers and push the trigger
forward and I pushed the bolt forward. I think the gun is in good shape with the sear and trigger
notch but someone had tried to make the trigger too light with just using the spring tension on
the trigger.
I really appreciate all the help and I will get it up and running shortly.
68
Answer:
You got it, I did not mean to sound stuffy but we get a lot of questions concerning triggers and
how to do them etc. As you know if the system is not understood then an unsafe trigger is the result. It sounds as though you have a good understanding of it and what was causing the problems
to begin with. Please keep us informed as to how it all turns out.
Answer:
We have a DVD specifically addressing the Model 70 trigger job. - Jack
Question:
I was wondering, do you need to heat treat the entire receiver for AK type rifles when using a flat
to construct the receiver. I have the Building the AKS Rifle Video and after watching it several
times I still dont recall hearing anything about heat treating except for the bolt rails. Did I miss
something here or is it not necessary to heat treat the entire receiver.
I have seen instructions from others ( not AGI) stating to heat treat the fire control holes then
go back and draw down the entire receiver @ 600 degrees for 1 hour. Just thought I would ask
before taking on the project, a little confused on this subject.
Answer:
It is not necessary to heat treat the whole receiver. The areas that need the heat treatment are
the areas where parts wear against one another. The rails definitely and around the fire control
holes is not a bad idea but it is not necessary. As far as how you should heat treat depends on
what kind of metal the receiver is made out of.
Question:
I NEED SOME HELP!
I had a Marlin 336 .30/30 older model come in. The Lever latch was stuck in full open. Ive cleaned
the gun, matched all parts up to view interaction. Ive checked each and every part. The only part
that showed need for replacement was the carrier rocker, and spring. I did replace these parts. Put
the gun back together, but the same problem still exists. I have even reviewed the video on the
336, and matched all functions with another 336. HELP!!!!!!!!
WHATS WRONG????
Answer:
Check to see if the loading gate spring has come loose and is jamming the carrier.
Reply:
Thank you Mark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That was the problem. I would have never thought of it. Thanks again!!!!
69
Question:
I need the factory recommended trigger pull for a Remington 597 .22
Answer:
597 .22 I believe it is the same as the Remington 700s 4-7 lbs.
Question:
Can anyone tell me what type of drill bit to use? Im working on a Remington 742 and the operating handle retaining pin is so stuck I cant budge it. So now I run in to another problem cant find
the right type of bit to drill with. Any answers would be of much help
Answer:
If the pin is hardened youll play hell drilling it out with a high speed steel bit. A carbide center
drill will do the trick without walking. I think Id keep trying to drive it out instead.
Reply:
If you cant drive the pin out with a short tapered punch- from top to bottom. Take a small dentist diamond burr and going from bottom to top eat the butt off of the pin and then drive it out
top to bottom.
Question:
I have a Marlin Glenfield Model 60. Can any one help me find the problem with this rifle? Its not
loading bullets correctly and bending them
Answer:
Have you checked the feed throat to see if it is wore out. With those being made of aluminum
they have a tendency to do that.
Reply:
Yes look into the feed throat they wear out rapidly, also check your chamber to see that there is
not a burr at the mouth, this will/can cause a failure to feed.
Question:
I received a Mossberg Model 810-A from a customer that needs some repairs with-in the bolt
assembly. I have never worked on a Mossberg bolt action rifle, but it all seems pretty straight
forward. However I found in my Traders Guide that this particular model with a detachable box
magazine was only manufactured between 70-75. I dont know if there may be any other changes
to it other than the predecessor having a hinged floor plate. Has anyone had experience working
on these rifles? And if so, can you give me a source that may be able to provide schematics and/or
parts? Many thanks.
Answer:
If you mean the 800 series there are significant differences in the firearms. This is most notable in
70
the trigger group. If you meant the RM7 model there is not much difference in the design.
Answer:
Numrich has a fairly good exploded diagram for all three models and carries most of the parts.
Frank de Haas book BOLT ACTION RIFLES has a good section on the model 800.
71
Part 3
Handguns
72
Question:
When pondering a test question, I wondered if there may not be two correct answers as I am
stumped.
My question is in regard to the results of moving the trigger nose closer to the cylinder stop (by
forward cutting the pivot pin slot in the stop itself) on a Smith & Wesson Double Action Revolver.
If I am understanding correctly (though I may not be of course), this would cause the ball of the
cylinder stop to go lower in the frame and for a longer duration (depending on the angle of the
bottom of the trigger back as it disengages from the cylinder stop and the stop in turn pops back
up-- Could Flutter occur at this stage?!?--).
If this is correct, couldnt this also now cause flutter, as the longer journey of the cylinder stop
(and its ball) along the back of the trigger nose is longer and could cause flutter?
Answer:
There are often two or more answers that are right but Bob wants you to think and figure out
which one is the most right. The cylinder stop will travel farther and a bit lower, but flutter usually wont start because of this.
Question:
I was at a local indoor shooting range today & the owner asked about a S&W Model 28 revolver.
it had several bullets stuck in the bore. To remove them they had heated the BBL with a torch &
say they melted the lead out if it.
The BBL is quite discolored its entire length. The frame does not appear to be discolored & he indicated that they had removed the BBL somewhere in this process. The crane & cylinder were not
on the gun when I saw it & he may have meant the cylinder. He stated the everyone there had
messed with it:(
With the BBLs entire length discolored it seems that the BBLs & frames heat treat is damaged.
I noticed what appeared to be a pin & later wondered if this bbl is threaded & pinned. I have
doubts that the BBL was in fact removed but cant prove it.
Is this a job you guys would take?
I have a holster of the owners that I will be doing a small modification on & so thought Id ask &
get back to them
Thanks
Answer:
With the barrel heated to discoloring and everyone there has messed with it I would simply
tell them the barrel is ruined. You dont know how hot they got the barrel. The barrels on the
older S&Ws were pinned so that is normal. You should be able to examine the pin and see if it
is marked like it has been removed recently. That will tell you if the barrel has been pulled. The
frames are relatively soft and so even if the frame where the barrel screws in was heated, it is
probably OK, they just need a new barrel.
73
Reply:
OK, I thought this would be the case but wanted your opinion.
You said the older S&W BBLs were pinned. Are they threaded & pinned or just pinned? I would
guess both.
Thank you for your help
Answer:
Threaded and pinned.
Question:
I replaced a firing pin on a Remington 121 22cal rifle. The tip was fat and would not set off the
round, so I reshaped it, now the round fires, I could file the tip, when I got the pin, do I have to
case harden it now?
I also had a blade firing pin for an early H&R sidekick revolver pistol, the blade is part of the hammer, it looks like it may be forced or soldered in place, it would not fire, the blade was fat on the
end. I could not file the blade, it was hard, I had to use a diamond grinder to reshape the blade,
now it fires, do I have to case harden the blade now?
I watch Bob on the video on heat treat and case hardening and now I am more lost than before.
Answer:
On the replacement firing pin I would harden it as they usually come soft for fitting. After you
harden it, it will last soooo much longer. As far as the H&R the whole hammer is hard as well as
the firing pin which is part of the hammer. You dont have to re-harden the tip as all it has to do
is crush brass. As far as, do you need to case harden the rifle firing pin you replaced, that would
depend on what type of metal it is made out of. You DONT want to case harden oil hardening
steel. Watch Bobs tape again and I know he went over what you need to do to find out what
kind of steel you have in front of you.
Question:
Does any one have any experiences with these guns (H&R Sidekick)? I know they stopped making
them. Are there any problems with them? Do they shoot good groups? The reason Im asking is I
found a used one at a good price. Any input is appreciated.
Answer:
It will have all the regular revolver issues, the timing of the bolt and hand and cylinder will be off
to some degree. There may be other issues but nothing you shouldnt be able to fix.
Question:
Sorry to post what may be a dumb question. I recently acquired an F.I.E. TZ 75. Is this the same
as the EAA Witness Tanfoglio, or the CZ 75. Is there any interchangeability of parts among the
F.I.E., EAA, and CZ 75. Are Armorors courses available for this?
74
Answer:
There is an Armorers course, AGI #1314. Many of the parts can be adapted from one make to
another, of the same configuration. Ken
Answer:
In the 1980s before you could get the CZ75 guns in the USA, I bought a TZ75. After a couple of
years of use, the firing pin retaining plate hammered the slot for it in the slide to the point that
the firing pin retaining pin plate would no longer stay in the slide or retain the firing pin. At the
time there were no parts available as FIE went out of business. I had to junk the gun. I think at
the time the materials used in these guns was sub-standard. The current EAA imports from the
same Italian manufacturer (today known as a Witness, and I have one in 45ACP) seem to be excellent guns without this materials problem.
Reply:
The point is watch this FIE TZ75 closely as it may be a flawed gun. Anyone else have a problem
with the TZ75 or was I just lucky?
Reply:
Thanks for the heads-up. This one looks to have had very little use. Ill likely install Wolff
springs, including firing pin spring, just in case. Are you aware of a source for these parts? I may
try to find an extra firing pin retainer, although I agree with you that the hammering of the slide
receptacle is more likely a metallurgy problem.
Answer:
I would suspect that the Wolf springs for Brownells would fit since it is a CZ clone. The firing pin
retaining plate was not the problem but it was the slide that got damaged. Only a spare slide
would help that!
I looked at it at the time and could not see the physical mechanism that pounded the slide cut
for that firing pin retaining plate. Recoil, it seems, would tend to push the plate against the bulk
of the slide while just changing direction in its travel seems like it could not stress the cut in the
slide sufficiently to make the metal break away from the slide to allow the retaining plate to fall
off (??). I can not imagine that the firing pin spring could cause the problem (??). It was and is a
mystery to me how and why it failed.
The gun was inexpensive at the time, was highly polished but buffed by someone not aware of
how to minimize waviness in the flat surfaces. I bought it because it fit my hand like a glove. Too
bad it was made of poor materials (??). But today we have real CZs and I have several along with
the Kadet 22LR conversion.
Answer:
Ive had a TZ-75 for over 20 years (the original one with the slide mounted hammer drop safety)
and fired about a bazillion rounds through it, both in its original 9mm, and with the .40 S&W top
end. I fit a Bar-Sto match barrel to both and it took some extra work because they were designed
for the CZ and the original TZ is a little different in the barrel dimensions. The cross pin that holds
the sear assembly in the frame eventually broke at the groove that locates the sear spring. EAA
still has some parts for this gun which they imported as the Witness B. The only other problem
that I had with it is the round extension on the barrel that serves as the hood was softer than
it should have been and eventually battered into a mushroom shape that created loose breech.
Again, EAA has barrels of all descriptions, and they are inexpensive. Other than that, fit a BarSto.
75
Question:
Have bought every 1911 video I can lay my hands on and have not found out how to take apart
an ambidextrous-safety without ruining the finish on the gun, Does anyone have a way?
Answer:
Which type of ambi safety???
I personally had a McCormick but would like to know about each one of them for future reference
Reply:
Well some are put together the same like the Brown & Wilson. On the really tight ones like those
you can grip the right side with a pair of pliers use padding, and wiggle back and forth while pulling out with slight pressure. That side should pull out and then you can take the left side off like
normal. The Kings version you have to remove the left side like normal and then rotate the right
side down off of the sear pin and out of the gun. The sear pin is longer and engages the right
side with a tongue and groove system. Some have a longer sear pin that has a notch in it that
engages the right side safety half and retains it that way. Remove the left side like normal and
rotate the right side down out of engagement from the sear pin and it pulls straight out. Swenson has a tongue and groove on the right side and is retained like the others by a tab extending
under the right grip panel.
Question:
Trouble with Ruger Redhawk out of firing 5 sets of six rounds each:
first set fired fine 6 rounds
second set fired fine 6 rounds
third set 4 fired two didnt but were hit very lightly
fourth set 4 fired two didnt same as third set
fifth set 3 fired and three didnt same as third set very lightly
six set 1 fired and 5 didnt
The ones that fired had a proper dent in the primer but the others didnt but were hit very lightly
mostly were shot using the double action. Would like some input of what the trouble may be and
what to look for when I disassemble it.
Answer:
Check the endshake first, that is easy and you wont have to disassemble the gun to see if it has
some. Next check the headspace, make sure it is in spec. Last check the timing. Then I would see
that the firing pin is free to move and has enough protrusion. Check to see that the hammer fall,
right when the double action sear lets go, is sufficient. Last make sure that someone hasnt been
altering the mainspring, you know clipping coils to lighten the pull etc. Make sure that the ammo
is good, no old handloads or old wet ammo.
Question:
Hi Ken, I got a call on a 22 revolver with a slightly bulged BBL, J C Higgins Mod 88. I believe this to
be a Hi Standard.
76
The bulge is described as slight & was not even noticed until it was cleaned & he could feel the
cleaning rod slip. On further inspection he found the bulge.
I am told that it still shoots to point of aim. It is unclear as to when this bulge happened. It was
used in the last few days for rabbit hunting. I admit I havent seen it & am going on a verbal
description only. This is from a relative that is knowledgeable about guns & takes good care of
them.
The question is must this be re-barreled or is likely safe enough to shoot? On one hand this 22
seems to be shooting OK.
In the other hand re-barreling seems the safest option. I dont have a lath yet so is this a job you
guys would take?
If not who do you suggest?
Answer:
OK, bulges are like cracks in glass, it works now but will continue to grow until it splits or bursts,
.22 is low pressure so it will probably take some time. The safe thing is to re-barrel it. We do rebarrel those but be aware we will want you to find a barrel and send that with the gun so we are
sure you have the correct one you want. Also be aware that those arent worth a whole lot. Get
the gun and inspect it first before you or your family member make any decision etc.
Reply:
I thought this might be the case but thought it best to ask you. Ill talk to him & go from there
Answer:
Could we cut the BBL down past the bulge? The bbl will only be about 2 3/4 inches long but usable.
Or since you described the bulge as a crack in glass is it still a accident waiting to happen? This is
my guess but it seems a logical question.
Reply:
Yeah cutting the barrel off is a good way to save the original barrel and be safe. When I mentioned it was like a cracked glass I meant that it will only continue to grow, until it breaks or
bursts. So yeah, cut it and reinstall the sight and away you go.
Question:
Took a Contender apart for clean and oil, this one has 2 firing pins, The top one is rimfire and the
bottom one is center fire. Upon inspection the center fire firing pin is rough on the tip, its still
hemisphere shaped but rough. Customer never indicated any problems. Do you think I should
replace this pin? How do you figure it got like that? Your input is appreciated. Gregg
Answer:
Wouldnt it make more sense just to polish the tip back to smooth? This is of course assuming you
dont have to take too much material off. - Ryan
77
Answer:
I would have to agree with Ryan, we dont replace parts unless the original is unsaveable. Just
polish the original up to remove the deformed marks. Be aware that some people will not be
happy or willing to pay for repairs that they did not request, especially if the firearm operated
correctly to begin with. On the other hand some will be very happy you are looking out for them.
If you know this customer and you think they would want you to fix it, then go ahead. The only
time I do any work not requested is when there is a safety issue. Then I explain that the firearm
was unsafe and we could not return it to him / her without it being correct. If we see a problem as
you describe we might just call the customer and ask him if he wants us to address the problem. If
I dont have time to do that or am unable to contact the customer I make a note of it and explain
that down the road the gun may start to run into problems and when it does he can bring it back
and we will look into fixing it then.
Question:
Customer brought in a 1911, that wont unlock. I think the problem is the rubber shock buff has
crumbled and gotten under the bbl and saddle. Bob says cut the slide stop off. Do you use the
cutting disc on the Foredom tool? Can it be done with out marking the slide or bbl? This pistol
also has a live round in it. Can we fire it without causing any more damage? This pistol has a Colt
MK IV series 70 government model 45 automatic caliber slide on a Para-Ordnance frame. (FT. Lauderdale FL. Canada) if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance.
Answer:
Yes we use the cut off disc in the Foredom for those type of cutting jobs. Be careful and you wont
hit the slide or the frame. The cut off disc will get smaller as you use it and then you can get in
close to the slide etc. Once it is close you can break the slide stop with a punch or screw driver.
You should be able to fire it as the gun holds all the pressure when it normally fires it just has the
room to move back and down. So with the broken shock buff it will move back and just wont
be able to unlock, and open. If you are worried about it you can wedge something between the
hammer and firing pin, or you can use some surgical tubing to tie the hammer back to the grip
frame.
Question:
Customer went out and fired the gun, it unlocked and opened up as it normally does. I have
it apart and clean. I found no trace of a rubber shock buffer and cant find it in the schematic.
Luckily didnt have to cut the slide stop. Any ideas why we couldnt unlock and open it by hand?
Should I check the specs on the link and link pin? Everything looks good and seems tight. I
thought about putting it back together and trying it, but if it wont unlock again then would I
have to cut the slide stop off? Thank you Again
Answer:
Check to see that the gun passes the pencil test, the one where you see if it is unlocking completely. Also make sure there are no marks where something might have been between the barrel
and the frame where it unlocks behind the barrel lug at the link and on the saddle.
Reply:
Ok, I found a piece of something in the saddle, It wasnt very big and it was about 1 1000 thick.
78
It wasnt metal as it wouldnt stick to magnet. Found a couple small pieces of what looked to be
chrome in the slide, wouldnt stick to magnet either. Did a hang test and passed. Did a pencil test
Seemed to be alright kind of sticky on the initial unlocking but as soon as it unlocks it slides freely
until it hits the disconnector button. Did the slide stop test and failed, with pressure on the muzzle I have to push the slide stop to turn it, its not free. So all I have to do now is figure out what
to adjust?
Answer:
Well Im not going to tell you about the slide stop and where to adjust cause the fact you mentioned it means you know what is going on. Go back and review the tape if need. The small
pieces of whatever in the saddle would cause the barrel not to unlock all the way and therefore
seem to be jammed, so that is probably what was causing that problem, BUT I would look into
how it unlocks with the pencil test some more to make sure it is unlocking correctly. That way you
know it is correct. If there is some hesitation as you mention right at the start of unlocking that
can mean it is marginal and not quite enough.
Reply:
Took about 1/1000 off BBL lug. Passed pencil test and now the slide stop test is good. The slide
stop turns real free now. Did the hang test again and thats good. I suppose the next thing will be
it wont feed. Do these always need ramp adjustments after you fit the prior tests?
Answer:
Sounds like you have all your bases covered. You dont always have to adjust the ramps to make
the gun feed after you make the barrel fit correctly but most of the time you will as you have
changed the relationship of the barrel to frame
ramp during the feeding cycle. Whether or not the barrel was fitted correctly to begin with is
hard to tell.
Question:
Have some people having cartridge blowouts on the bottom rear of the case when shooting
1911s. Checked the chamber depth and everything seems fine, wondering if it is just due to bad
brass or overcharging. Anyone got any ideas?
Answer:
Is the brass old? Been reloaded quite a few times? Is the load hot? The chamber is right but is the
ramp too deep? The headspace can be great and the ramp just too deep. Ken
Reply:
More than likely the brass is old and been reloaded quite a bit. The ramp seems to be okay as
does the chamber. The only thing I can come up with is overload
Answer:
Check the primer in the blown case that will tell you if it was a hot load. It will be flat and it will
have flowed into or around the firing pin hole some. You know you have seen some I am sure.
Hope you arent too snowed under.
Keep warm and dry. Ken
79
Reply:
The Primer was totally blown out of the case head. I cannot even determine if the case was the
problem or a double charge. The only information I have is that has happened to this customer
twice in two different pistols. Which leads me to believe something with the ammunition?
Answer:
Yeah that is what it sounds like, when the ramp is too deep the case bulges and or ruptures
where there is not support but the primer is fine. If the cases were old the same thing would happen or the case head would separate, this sounds like a HOT load. And it happened to the same
guy with TWO different guns??? Got to be ammo.
Reply:
Thanks, by the way I took it to the firing range today and it works fine. Am making an appointment with the customer to teach him how to reload.
Question:
Have a Fed Ord. aluminum frame 45. These frames were made by (for) Fed Ord & the rest of the
gun was mostly GI parts. These parts seem to be fitted rather dramatically to make them work
in the gun. The frame has several casting flaws on the inside including a small cavity (hollow spot)
along the rails. To top it off the back of this frame broke off behind the thumb safety! The underside of the slide if very battered. In my opinion this pistol is junk, unsafe to shoot & not repairable. The one option I can think of is to get a 2 conversion slide & mag. the broken section could
be epoxied or brazed in place & the Ceiner type 22 conversion installed. The owner is a very
good friend and or it would end up with me. I doubt I would recommend this for an unknown
customer what do you think?
Answer:
I am not a fan of aluminum in guns. Some are designed well and it is not a problem i.e. Sig
frames. Others it isnt as critical for wear and tear i.e. Rem 870 trigger housings. But 1911s should
have steel as you well know or know now, and Fed Ord isnt the best of quality. A .22 conversion would work fine but be aware that you still may have problems as the holes for pins are not
where they should be, the rails as you mention could be (probably are) way off and you may have
to do some serious work to make the whole thing operate correctly. I would not solder or glue
the broken part just tell the customer what he has and what his options are. When you fit the .22
slide and parts to the gun do all the work on the frame that way you wont be altering the slide
and making it inoperable with a different frame down the line.
Reply:
I had not thought about the pin holes being way off & no doubt you are right. Fitting and or
modifying the frame, not the conversion parts is great advice. This is how I will proceed if I go
through with this. This project was a last resort to regain something from a junk gun.
Thanks for your help
Answer:
I think it is great to salvage a gun. Just dont go overboard, there is a happy medium.
80
Question:
I am in the pistolsmithing portion of the pro course and as an exercise I disassembled a Smith
model 19-5 I had purchased at a gun show. Before doing so I function tested it, but only while
holding it horizontal. After reassembling it, I noticed the cylinder would not rotate when the
pistol was held vertically and cycled either single or double action. I disassembled it again and
discovered the hand was falling back out of the hand window when the gun was held vertically.
Obviously, there has to be a spring that holds the hand in the window. Examining the trigger
assembly I noticed a spring held in by another pin (other than the two hand pins) but the spring
was not under tension and seemed to serve no purpose. I removed it and tried to install it so it
would keep the hand in its window, but cant figure out how to do so. Am I correct that the hand
is held in the window by spring tension? If so, how do you place the spring? Any advice will be
appreciated.
Answer:
OK put the spring back in the trigger like you found it. Then as you install the hand the back of
that spring rests on top of the small pin in the hand. The hand pivots on the large pin and the
small pin is allowed to move up and down in the groove in the trigger.
Question:
I have a Colt Police Positive with a broken out front sight blade. There are pieces of the old blade
still in the groove with what looks like J.B. Weld.
I cant find a blade, in Brownells or Gun Parts. Just barrels with blades attached. My part making
skills are OK for inside parts but lack the cosmetic appeal for outside. Where can I find a blade
and how can I get the groove clean enough for solder without ruining the blue. I think I can get
the old blade pieces out with a heat gun & pick. Thanks.
Answer:
What I would do for the front sight is take a cut off disc in the Foredom and slowly cut out the
old sight. That way the cut marks are just like the original and you will be able to cut out the old
solder and the glue. Then I would make a sight. I am sorry but I dont know of anyone who is
making sights for the old Colt revolvers. Match the cut in the barrel with a tang on the bottom
of the sight you make. Shape the sight and polish and blue it. Then take and remove the bluing
from the sight where you want the solder to stick and solder it in place. It sounds like a pain but
its not as bad as it sounds. Again there arent real serious tolerances because it is just a sight.
Good luck.
Question:
I am considering building a 9mm 1911 as my first project gun. What are the advantages/disadvantages to using a Clark/Para or a Wilson/Nowlin ramped barrel cut?
Answer:
They all make good barrels so the only real problems will be fitting the barrel to the receiver. If it
is already cut for the ramped barrel then you just have to fit it and make it right. If it isnt cut for
the ramped barrel you will have to machine the frame to accept the barrel.
81
Reply:
Thanks for the reply. I was looking for a comparison of the two types of cuts. As I was looking
around the web I found some good information at www.schuemann.com under the AET Information link. As you know Schuemann makes some great barrels as well. It is Wils opinion that
the Clark/Para/Lissner cut has more material left and is an easier cut to make and has a lower
incidence of lower lug problems. (Ive sheared the lowers completely and cracked them on two
separate occasions on a .38 Super with a Wilson/Nowlin cut.) I dont believe that the W/N cut was
the primary reason, I think that the gunsmiths who fitted my barrels did not fit them properly.
This is one reason that I am interested in learning how to do these things the correct way myself.
Question:
HELP!!!... OK. Here it goes. When fitting a 1911 barrel to the frame, what is the distance between
the bottom of the barrel and the barrel bed. Also do you clearance the frame or the barrel. As
of now. the bottom barrel lugs are just touching the barrel stop surface, the feed ramp is the
required 1/32 distance from the top of the magazine well, but the barrel is resting on the barrel
bed.
Answer:
There is no spec. to the gap between the barrel and the frame where you indicate. Actually there
probably is but since there are a hundred different companies making 1911s and none of them
are the same welcome to learning to be a gunsmith. We have no spec. here AS LONG AS THE
BARREL DOES NOT HIT AND STOP HERE. THERE MUST BE A GAP OF SOME KIND. If there is no gap
then this is where the barrel is stopping when it unlocks and you will get a gun that breaks the
following: links, link pins, and slide stops. The customer will tell you the gun recoils heavier than
other 1911s as well. The barrel must stop on the lug where you indicate. I dont know where you
get the 1/32 spec. for the barrel ramp as this will vary depending on the gap between the barrel
and the frame. You will NEED a jump from the frame ramp to the barrel ramp, and the distance
from the frame ramp to the barrel ramp is one and a half time the distance between the barrel
and frame at the barrel bed. If this distance is incorrect you will get a jam occasionally and some
shooters will get that gun to jam almost every shot. When fitting the barrel and I have it locking
up correctly I will fit the barrel bed part of the frame. That way the barrel will not be weakened
by thinning it at the chamber area. Do you have the AGI professional series? Dunlap COVERS the
1911 VERY well. Ken
Reply:
Thanks Ken. I most likely didnt explain myself correctly on the 1/32 part. I understand that there
must be a distance between barrel feed ramp and the top of the mag well (meaning the frame)
so the round can jump and anything less then 1/32 could possibly cause the bullet tip to hit the
feed ramp and jam. The link down movement/timing seems fine and the lugs are contacting
where they should. I just noticed two very, very, small and light tiny shiny lines on the bottom of
the barrel. Light contact with the frame? Recoil seems fine and not heavy. Yes I do have the 45
videos, need to get them converted to DVD because the FF/RW is a little time consuming.
Thanks for your info.
Answer:
Good, it sounds like you are on the right track. I would make sure that the gun will allow the slide
stop to swing freely when there is tension off of it like Bob shows. If the small shiny spots bother
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you can take them out. Remove slight metal on the barrel seat in the frame. Before you do that
though put some lipstick on the bottom of the barrel there and check it in the gun to see how
much contact you actually have. Ken
Reply:
Girlfriends pissed. First I used her finger nail files (work great), now her lipstick. LOL
Answer:
Your female significant other is upset with you?? Wow! Thats amazing, never happened to me. Jack
Question:
I have a steel framed commander 1911, early 1970s vintage. Customer wishes to have a ramped
barrel installed. The pistol was damaged by a shade tree gunsmith by stoning too much metal
off the ramp in frame and the chamber, ruining the barrel. I have discovered there are many different styles of ramped barrels out there. Can anyone recommend a ramped barrel for this application? From my research, Bar-Sto comes highly recommended. But they have different styles of
ramps. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Answer:
BarSto makes a great barrel, any one you get from them should be good and after you fit it to
the gun it should run great. Another option is to weld up the wrecked part of the frame and fit
a standard barrel. Or check to see that even though the barrel was wrecked beyond repair a new
barrel fitted correctly might cure the problems and you may not have to alter or weld up the
frame.
Question:
Can anyone tell me about the 400 Corbon conversion kit for the 1911. How good is it and what
are the drawbacks if any?
Answer:
Any conversion kit will have to be fitted. I know that many of the students are tired of hearing
me say this but there is NO such thing as a drop in part. There are parts that drop in, and sometimes they work but they NEVER work 100% correctly. Once you have the parts and they are
fitted correctly there should be no problems. That is a pretty hot cartridge if my memory serves so
the barrel will have to have lots of lock up and no slop or loose breech.
Reply:
I had assumed that it would need fitting. My main concern was if there where known problems
with the system. My 45 as it sits has .044 lockup using the penny test Bob shows on the DVD. I did
it several times on 2 different days and got the same results within about .004. I assume if I can
get similar results with the Corbon barrel that will be enough.
Answer:
Yeah that should be enough. Make sure the loose breech is removed and you should have no
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problems.
Reply:
Should I put a heavier spring in. to help with the recoil
Answer:
I am not sure it is necessary. You may want to put in a slightly heavier spring and see if that helps
or hinders. You can always go back to the standard spring. I will try to get Bob to weigh in on this
spring question as well.
Reply:
Use a Shok-Buf and check with Corbon on the recommended spring weight. - Jack
Question:
I have a quick question on doing trigger work on this Contender trigger group. I know what to do
with all the parts but the striker and trigger, should I keep the striker edge sharp and just slight
stone the sharp edge -and then just smooth the trigger engagement slot. I am going to belt sand
the trigger spring some instead of cutting coils. When ever you get time no hurry. Thanks
Answer:
Yes dont clip coils or legs of springs. The contender is a set trigger basically and you can stone the
angle but KEEP both the striker and the trigger positive. Smooth them and put some good moly
grease on them and you will be fine.
Question:
I received a Dan Wesson 44 Mag revolver for a fix. Customer says that its cylinder binds occasionally when shot. I have not test fired it as yet, however on the bench it functions well. I am sure
I can trouble shoot and fix this gun, however it is designed quite differently than all other Colts
and S&Ws. There is no side plate with screws to disassemble. It appears there is a pin and a small
socket head screw that would allow the guts to come out the bottom of the gun with the trigger
assembly? I have looked for schematics with no luck. I am a little hesitant to start work without a
little more info. Can anyone help please?
Answer:
exactly what do you think you need to start? It will be a bit different in takedown but revolvers
are revolvers. Something rotates the cyl. Something stops the cyl. etc. etc. As to the problem you
mention the first thing I would check is the barrel cyl. gap, and end shake. Ken
Reply:
Thanks for the response. The end shake and cyl. gap are not correct and I will fix, however this
particular revolver comes apart quite differently and I guess I am looking for some guidance in
this area. As I noted there is no side plate and appears everything comes out the bottom with the
trigger assembly? The hand is dinged up and I want to disassemble and clean it up.
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Answer:
I believe that you are correct everything comes out the bottom. I dont remember what is holding
it in place though. The Rugers use a plunger but I cant remember if the DW is like that or not.
I have only had 1-2 of the Dan W. apart but I dont remember there being anything real scary or
any parts go flying as you take it apart. Everything stays together as a sub assembly.
Answer:
Check J.B. Woods book on Firearms Assembly/Disassembly, Part II Revolvers. We have them in
stock. Also, if you go on the web and do a look-up (Google or Yahoo) of Dan Wesson Revolver
you will find tons of info. There will also always be someone whos posted the takedown/reassembly instructions. - Jack
Question:
Im just getting started into the master course. I thought it was rather handy the course starts
with the 1911 since I own one. I have done my ramp job and the weapon works great with every type of hollow point I can find to fire. I also found that my link was stopping my barrel so I
fixed that; weapon still works perfectly (thanks by the way). I then pulled my firing pin and sure
enough I found some tiny brass shavings on the pin and in the pin housing in the slide so I made
the little indention on the top of the firing pin hole. Have not found any more brass shavings as
of yet.
Next I examined some of my fired brass. Sure enough there was a nice shiny mark on the brass
which close inspection confirmed was from the extractor. I also noticed the extractor tip was
touching the brass fairly snugly, in fact, the tip was the only portion of the extractor touching the
brass. So, I filed the tip down and filed enough off the back shoulder of the extractor for it to
clear the casing. I then fired my pistol and discovered I had filed too much off the extractor tip. I
went back and worked to correct this problem. I was able to get the tip right down to the brass
with the casing touching the rim of the brass just like Bobs illustration on the course, almost. After firing the weapon again and still having ejection problems I discovered the corner at the very
bottom of the extractor hook was not a corner but a rounded transition. When the slide traveled back the case rim would hit this rounded area and begin pushing the extractor away from
the casing before the hook could catch the rim. Its only a slight movement, but it was enough to
cause problems. I also realized that by filing so much off the extractor I had caused it to sit in the
slide cocked inward a good bit thereby releasing compression from the spring and reducing the
extractor tension.
I believe I can remedy the rounded corner with a Dremel but am a little leery of this. I would rather find a triangle file with a sharper angle than the one I have. As far as adjusting the tension, I
am a little concerned that I have filed too much off the extractor and ruined it. I dont know for
sure, thats a judgment call which calls for more experience than I have. I will play with this one
to see for my self. But, since this fire arm is my favorite for home protection and I want it working
correctly, I have ordered a new extractor and am in the process of installing it. The new extractor requires drilling for the pin. When I insert it into the slide it also hits the brass exactly like the
original extractor did. When I slide the extractor back in its housing in order to make it clear the
brass it binds on the slide and cant move freely. Here in lies my question. Since the extractor is
not drilled for a pin, can I take approximately .020 off the back edge of the extractor in order to
move it back, allow it to move freely, and to clear the brass without causing other problems that
can not be overcome?
85
Answer:
Yes you can fit the extractor as you described. Sounds like you are learning a lot, and that is good.
Question:
I had a customer bring in a Taurus PT145 semi-auto pistol. The customer said it would not fire,
only would put a little dimple in the primer. I took the pistol to the range this morning to test
fire. Put 3 rounds in the magazine, worked fine. I then put 5 rounds in the magazine and it miss
fired on the 5th round. Did it again, same thing. So I put 6 rounds in the magazine, fired the first
5 rounds fine, miss fired on the 6th. The miss fired rounds have a small hit on the primer. The
rounds that did fire have a normal looking hit on the primer but also a small bar like impression
to one side of the primer. Any ideas????
Answer:
The little bar mark on the primer is caused by the gun opening with the firing pin still partially in
the primer, not really a problem, many guns do that. If it is excessive or causing wear on the firing
pin or firing pin hole you will want to fix it. Are you SURE it only misfires on the last round out of
the magazine??? If so you may want to look to make sure the magazine follower/slide stop/slide
etc. arent dragging excessively and causing the slide to not close completely. That will cause a
misfire. Keep us informed,
Reply:
I was thinking that the bar mark was caused by the firing pin hitting the round as it was being
ejected, so thanks for confirming that. My thought process must be somewhat correct. Yes its the
last round. I will check the items you talk about. I will reply with what I find and how I fix it.
Answer:
Problem fixed. A good cleaning of the complete gun took care of the problem. Before the cleaning with 20 test rounds I had 3-4 miss fires. It seemed to always be the last round in the magazine.
After cleaning, 20 rounds, all fired fine, no miss fires at all. I also did a complete cleaning of the
magazine.
Question:
Hey, I was hoping someone may be able to give me some help. A customer brought in his Interarms PPK/S complaining of jamming. I havent gotten a chance to test fire it yet, but it sounds
like a three point bind. From what Ive been able to gather these Interarms PPK/S are known for
this type of problem. Has anyone come across a similar situation? The ramp and chamber all look
good, no sharp edges and a small step between ramp and chamber. I think Im going to try and
get out to test fire and make sure it isnt the extractor and not a three point bind, but the extractor holds a round on the breech face and seems to be shaped correctly. Any other ideas?
Answer:
PPK series of handguns have a serious problem when it comes to jamming. The extractor while
may be shaped correctly is above center and will try to push the cartridge off of the breech face.
Not to mention the loaded chamber indicator that is trying to shove the case off as well. The extractor hook must be bent down and refitted so the hook is below center and has a good positive
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sharp hook. They also on occasion have a slightly rough ramp on the frame and the barrel. They
will look good but if you can remove the barrel and give it some jump (unless as you mention it
is correct) then chamfer the chamber and polish the barrel ramp and frame ramp. You may want
to adjust the loaded chamber indicator spring so there isnt as much tension pushing down on the
cartridge case. Remember that is considered a safety (a visual one that shows the shooter the gun
is loaded) so DO NOT deactivate it.
Reply:
I noticed the extractor being above center and wondered about that. Ill give the ramp a good
polish, adjust the extractor and see what happens. Thanks again, I appreciate the quick response
and advice.
Question:
I was working on this gun (Smith&Wesson 686-5) just to clean and oil and I took the hand out of
the trigger only to see the spring was not captive with pin that holds the rest of them in. This is a
MIM trigger. Can you help me with the way this spring goes back in the trigger so the hand has
tension on it. Thanks I have tried a thousand ways til I wrecked the spring, had to order a new
spring. This is the first Smith I have worked on with MIM parts in it. Appreciate it.
Answer:
Gotta love MIM parts and new ways of inventing the wheel dont ya???? The spring goes in the
trigger with the front leg in the hole in the trigger up front. The round twist to the spring is on
top and then the rear leg rests on the hand and gives it the forward tension needed.
Reply:
Ok dont kill me yet!!! You mean the long leg of spring in the front of the Trigger in the hole
above the stirrup hole up front. Does the hand stud go thru the loop hole in the spring? I will
leave you alone the rest of the Month if you help me again.
Answer:
I wont kill you I like to help you guys out. No the hand does not go thru the loop in the spring. I
believe the long leg is the one that goes forward into the hole. There is nothing but the tension
of the spring that keeps it in place. When the hand is removed the spring comes out as you know.
Question:
I have redone my 1911 dozens of times, seems simple now so I thought to give this a try. Breakdown of the FEG was simple enough, but rebuild, well, not as simple it would seem. I took my
time and mapped it out, but there may be a trick or two in the order of replacement I missed?
I had to replace the trigger bar. Does anyone have any thoughts or know where I can find some
info (breakdown, clean rebuild). The trigger seems to negative on the pull now. I am looking to
get it back to factory specs and start from there. I still have the original parts, but I seem to be all
thumbs on getting back together, tight. From what I can tell, there does not seem to be a lot of
.380s in the M37 model that is Hungarian original. Sorry for the newbie type question, any help
would be great. I would like to keep this one as a shooter...
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Answer:
Sorry, I wanted to also mention I was just finishing up on my pistol course and this has me rethinking.. And reviewing...... GREAT courses BTW....Thanks again...
Reply:
Just a note for all those who read these questions, get a digital camera and take pictures with
each step in your disassembly. The more pictures you take the more reference you can have. After
the pictures have been taken, use your computer and something like Adobe Photoshop and clip
off excess, enlarge or reduce or what ever and then print them for easy reference when you are
ready to put the (now what is this) back together.
Answer:
If it is a FEG PA-63, it is much the same as a Walther PP/PPK and we have a course on it. - Jack
Question:
Im working on an H&R model 999 Sportsman .22 mag 9 shot serial #AGxxxxx (breaktop). The
cylinder will not rotate in either DA or SA mode. Examination disclosed that the hand (leaf and
spring in H&R parlance) was not extending through the frame whatsoever when the trigger
or hammer was worked. I replaced the hand and now it extends through the frame, but not far
enough to make contact with the indentations in the rear of the cylinder, thereby rotating the
cylinder. Interestingly, when I work the hammer or trigger with the cylinder almost (but not quite)
closed, the cylinder will partially advance. In reviewing some old parts catalogs, they show a different part number for the hand in the early A series guns than in later models. Did the early
models in fact have a different style hand from the later models? If so, where can I get one? Any
help anyone can give me with this problem will be greatly appreciated.
Answer:
There are at least 2 different styles of hands for H&R revolvers, but you should be able to adapt
the one you have to the gun and make it work. Was the original hand and spring broken, or did
it just not work? Those can be troublesome to get to work but if the original was complete then
you might want to try to make it work.
Question:
How would you go about buying ammo for the FNH Five-seven USG? It uses the 5.7x28mm restricted ammunition.
Answer:
I work for a gun store in CT. Im pretty sure we have that ammo, you can go to the website www.
bethanyfirearms.com and follow the link to his gunsamerica store, it should be listed there.
Answer:
Here is a link to our page on gunsamerica for this round; there is another page with more rounds
as well http://www.gunsamerica.com/guns/976615477.htm.
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Answer:
Both Sportsmans Guide and Midway sell it in both the FMJ and HP. Jack
Question:
Can I replace a Novak sight (rear) after cutting the Bo-Mar cut in the slide, it doesnt look like I
can with the ones that I have. But this customer has a New GI Model and I dont know the specs
on that sight. Thanks in advance.
Answer:
The Bo-Mar sight when low mounted is further forward than the Novak. The slide can always be
welded up and refit and reblued. The new GI model?? Standard sight?? Not sure exactly what
youre asking, if the slide you want to alter is a copy of the 1911s the military used then either of
the sights mentioned can be installed. Ken
Reply:
Yes it is the new Springfield GI, so if I understand you, the Bo-mar can be installed in place of the
Novak?
Answer:
OK I dont mean to be picky but, I believe the Springfield GI does not have either the Novak or
the Bo-Mar sight, it should have the standard fixed sight. So you can put in whichever one you
choose. BUT once you have made the cuts you cannot go to the other sight, i.e. if you install the
Bo-Mar sight you cannot go to the Novak, and if you put in the Novak first you cannot go to the
Bo-Mar sight. The Novak has a very wide dovetail that is pretty deep, so you would have to weld
it up and re-cut and reblue to install the Bo-Mar. The Bo-Mar sight is longer and you would have
to set the Novak way too far forward on the slide to clean up the machining for the Bo-Mar. I
hope this explains what you need to know if not keep asking and we will get it straightened out
eventually.
Reply:
Thanks Ken, and I do understand. I was just not too sure of what sight would be on that slide.
After talking to the customer, I find out most of his problem is due to trigger pull and jerking. He
was thinking that if he put a Bo-Mar on it would fix this problem, well Thanks again.
Question:
Looking for a lever spring for a U.S. Revolver Co. top-break, .32 cal. revolver with a hammer spur. I
understand that this piece is an Iver Johnson Frankenstein, a cheaper I.J. version consisting of left
over I.J. parts. I DO know that neither the .22/.32 cal. size lever spring, nor the .38 cal. lever spring
(Iver Johnson parts specific) fits...this from the Numrich website and catalog. Neither of the old
parts two, Numrich nor Jack First, has any U.S. Revolver Co. parts and it appears I.J. parts dont
fit.
So if youre bored with the novel youre reading, Id appreciate it if you will give this a shot.
Thanks.
89
Answer:
OK, contact the Wolff spring co. and get their catalog they have alot of spring blanks that you
can trim down to fit the different makes models etc. I dont have their address etc. here right now
so if you cant find it let me know. The other option is to make the spring from scratch. Get some
spring stock, we get ours from Brownells, and start heating and forming your spring. Once shaped
as you like temper as explained in the AGI course. As always good luck and keep us informed as
to your progress.
Question:
Help. I am working on a gun. A Talon T100 380. The problem is that the slide has a break from top
to bottom opposite of the ejection port. I need a new slide. Any ideas? Or could I weld it. It looks
like it is steel.
Answer:
I dont know where you might find a slide; try the usual places i.e. Gun Parts, or Jack First distributors. I am not familiar with that exact model but if the slide is steel AND the crack is not near a
locking surface or too close to the breech face you could weld it up, NORMALIZE it and reblue it.
I think that this model is a straight blow back therefore there would be no locking lug surfaces to
worry about.
Question:
Customer brought in S&W 25-5 with wear through the bluing at rear of cylinder. The gun appears to be operating OK, but when the cylinder is opened, it is possible for rear of cylinder to
touch the gun frame at the rear edge of the cylinder. There is a corresponding wear spot on the
frame at that spot. If the revolver is held horizontally with the cylinder hanging down, it appears
that the cylinder is parallel to the frame. But, the cylinder does have some side play on its center
pin which allows it to touch the frame at the rear of the cylinder. What is the problem with this
revolver, and how do I fix it?
Answer:
It sounds as though the cylinder is rubbing the frame lug. Make sure the frame lug is not loose
and protruding to a position that rubs the side of the cylinder. They are staked from the inside. If
it is tight a small amount of material may be removed where the stud rubs the cylinder. Be aware
the frame stud is what keeps the cylinder on the yoke when the cylinder is open. Ken
Reply:
Thanks for the response. The cylinder is not contacting the frame stud. It is touching the frame
in front of the stud. However, after disassembling the revolver, I can see that the crane is bent.
Thanks again.
Question:
Bob or Ken can you tell me how the engagement works for the cylinder stop in a Colt SAA or its
clones?. The rest of the gun functions fine but there is no movement in the cylinder stop and can
you tell me were I can get true schematics for this gun all Numrich has is a break down of parts
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any help you can give will help Im flying blind on this one thanks again.
Answer:
Mike there are two types but they work the same way. On one the cylinder stop is 1 piece and
the other has two pieces. OK, so the cylinder stop is engaged in the cylinder. as the hammer is
rotated back the small protrusion on the bottom of the hammer cams the bolt stop down, the
cylinder starts to rotate (the protrusion on the hammer is small, and the area of the cylinder stop
where the hammer cams it down, is also small) the hammer continues back and when the hammer protrusion and cylinder stop protrusion pass one another the cylinder stop is allowed to snap
up and engage the cylinder. The hammer falls and the front of the cylinder stop cam is pushed to
the side by the hammer protrusion, and then reengages in front of the hammer cam. The cylinder
stop cam is a long piece that is called the split spring on the version where the cylinder stop is two
pieces. It can flex side to side so the hammer protrusion cam can slip by. On the version where the
cylinder stop is one piece this top part is part of the cylinder stop but it is cut in a way that the
cylinder stop cam can also flex to one side or the other just like the two piece version. I know this
is a long answer and if you have most of the parts you will be able to see how it is supposed to
work. Be aware these break often, and they are a PAIN IN THE NECK TO FIX AND TIME CORRECTLY. I hope that I have explained the operation well enough for you to understand. If you have
anymore questions on this please ask. Good luck.
Question:
Are there any special tricks to doing a trigger job on the Taurus Millennium pistols, I have one
that has a terrible trigger on it, it has a lot of take-up which I believe is much like the S&W pistols
and will not be able to take out, but the trigger pull also feels heavy, as if it were extremely positive. Any advice and or help would be appreciated.
Answer:
Triggers are all basically the same, i.e. they all fire the gun somehow, and so all the rules apply. If
the trigger pull is too positive the pull will be heavy. You can make it LESS positive to lighten it up
some. DO NOT MAKE IT NEGATIVE. Also if the gun is NOT used for defense you may lighten the
springs.
Question:
I am working on a LLAMA 22 Cal. 1911 style. The problem that I am having is that after firing a
round the slide does not cycle at all. When I received the pistol the customer complained of stub
jams and over-rides mostly overrides. Working on the magazine and cleaning solved that problem, but after taking it to the range I can only get one shot at a time. I did notice the first time
out that the shells were snug in the chamber when manually loading, and very snug after firing.
I have cleaned and polished the chamber which solved that problem. When I manually cycle the
slide, the shells extract and eject properly what should I be looking at next?
Answer:
You didnt say what happens now that you have polished the chamber. What does the slide do
when the gun is fired now? Does it close on an empty chamber? Does it close on the fired case?
Does the fired case jam in the ejection port? Does it jam between the barrel/slide/extractor? Is the
slide feeding a new live round out of the mag into the back of the MT case which is still in the
91
chamber? Check to see that a NEW live round falls into the chamber completely. It should. Then
see that it falls out when the barrel is turned over. Then check your extractor fit, all the rules of
extractor fit apply. Make sure that the extractor hook grabs the rim and holds on to the case.
Sometimes the extractors will catch just on the edge of the rim, and not get a good bite on the
case.
Reply:
Even with the chamber polished after firing a round the slide does not move at all. When I manfully cycle the slide the extractor pulls and holds the case until it hit the ejector.
Answer:
You said that the slide doesnt open at all. Is the hammer cocked or in the safety notch after firing? Let us know and we will go from there. 2004
Reply:
Sorry I did not think to mention, the hammer is still in the drop-down position after firing a
round. That is what makes me believe the slide is not moving at all.
Answer:
This is a straight blow back handgun; something is keeping the slide closed. It must be something
substantial to contain the rearward force from the shell. You really have our curiosity up. Look it
over a bit more and if you still cannot figure it out you may want to send it to us, we will have to
charge for the repair but well figure it out and get it back to you. Please let us know what you
find or decide.
Question:
Anyone have any ideas on decreasing the amount of take-up in the trigger on the S&W Mod.
5903 Auto, 9MM, when using it single action?
Answer:
By design there has to be a difference in position from S.A & D.A. Some of the slop in the trigger
can be taken out but you will still have lots. I have done it once, years ago, it wasnt worth the effort. Remember this is an early D.A. system, designed by an engineer not a gunsmith. If you must
have a precise trigger system, alter the gun for either S.A. or D.A. ONLY.
Question:
Have an EAA Witness in the shop. Owner bought factory new slide and barrel and installed it.
Brought it in complaining of stovepipes. Fired the pistol and found that it always stove pipes
when it ejects. Round will hold if you put it in the slide and shake it around, but empties always
get dropped when the slide and bolt separate.
Several odd things about the gun. Barrel is marked 9mmx19. When I drop a round in the barrel,
it headspaces off the shoulder of the cartridge - that seems correct. But you can rattle the round
around in the barrel - must be at least .001 oversized. Also, barrel has no hood like others in the
family (CZ-75). And, the cartridge sticks out, unsupported, a frighteningly LONG ways out of the
chamber. There is a cut in the rear of the slide on this family - there is a metal stud that sticks up
92
near the hammer - rises in kind of a semi-circle and has a slight flat at the top. Im used to seeing the slide fit snugly over this on other models, but this particular slide has an extra step in that
curved surface - I think I have seen that kind of step on .45 slides.
Would much appreciate some help here, cant find any sort of slide specs for the 9mm model. Are
there different models of slides and frames?
Dont quite know what to make of the whole thing.....
Answer:
001 is nothing. If it was .015 I would worry. Extractor holds. Sooooo--may be that your ejector
is just ticking the extracting empty and raking it off of the extractor but not ejecting it. IE your
ejector is too low and or negative. Also possibly your extractor angle in incorrect--could be wrong
in several directions. Also, I have no idea what metal pin-stud-is. Anyway, dont sweat the small
stuff. Concentrate on the extractor and ejector--make sure they are correctly fitted and shaped. If
your cases arent bulging or blowing out, it isnt sticking out too far.
Question:
I have a Rossi model R46102. Im looking for parts but no one has them listed. I know that its basically an early Smith & Wesson. I was wondering which S&W model is the same.
Answer:
The Rossi revolvers are the same basic design, that is they work the same as the S&W revolvers
but they are not an exact copy. SOME PARTS CAN BE ALTERED/ADAPTED TO WORK IN THE ROSSI
GUNS.
Question:
I have a Mauser M-2 45 cal. automatic and the trigger pull is about as bad as they get. It is a NRA
commemorative but I want to shoot it. Has anyone out there had any success in trying to improve
this? I have completed AGIs gunsmithing
course so I feel competent to make changes.
Answer:
I have not had the privilege of disassembling and working on one of these firearms. BUT that
doesnt matter; all of the rules apply to this as any other trigger job. Smooth and polish all the
rough parts that rub against one another maintaining the critical angles etc. Since you have completed the AGI courses this should not prove difficult
93
Part 4
Miscellaneous
94
Question:
Ive had 2 calls in the last 3 weeks on these guns, (Gamo Varmint Hunter). I told the customers to
send them to Gamo as they are under warranty. People dont like to have to send their gun some
where. The same problem with both guns. They get them sighted in and they wont stay sighted
in. They have scopes lasers and lights on these things. When they go off they seem to go back to
the same place. Does any one have any experience with these guns? Why didnt we cover air guns
in the course? Gregg
Answer:
HI, I have not worked on this particular rifle but I have worked on several Air guns. I totally rebuilt a FWB 300s, some Chinese air guns & a couple others. I can make a couple of guesses.
Spring Piston air guns have a double recoil & can shake scopes to death. I have been told by
several people that they mounted regular scopes on springers & the scoped failed in a short
time.
I mounted a cheap red dot Halo sights on a couple of air guns. One is a Chinese & the other
RWS 5g pistol with a skeleton shoulder stock.
The sight adjustments are crude at best & get shaken off in a few shots. I guess lock tight and or
trying to stake the threads might help. These are my guns & I did this intentionally to see what
would happen.
The only lasers & lights I have noticed advertised with the air guns seem to be inexpensive. I
would guess that these would react like the junk unit I used.
There is a little block available that is mounted to the scope rail next to the rings. This is to aid in
keeping the scope in place. I havent tried one.
I wonder if remounting the sight systems, lapping the rings , etc might help.
If you need to disassemble the gun youll need a spring compressor. If you Google it youll find
some plans for home made model.
Lastly I wonder if the seals are bad. Its possible that if the seals are bad the zero would shift
around. Hope that helps
Reply:
Thanks for the input. As these rifles are package deals and are under warranty. It will be interesting to see what the factory tells the customers when they get them back.
Question:
Have a customer asking about cut fiber glass stock to shorten length of pull and ad recoil pad.
Question is what kind of blade do you use to cut fiberglass? I paid $80.00 plus for a good blade
that I cut wood stocks with but I dont want to spoil it by cutting something that will dull it. Also
do fiberglass stocks have enough material left after cutting to mount the screws in?
Answer:
I use the same blade. Now with that said you will probably want to get a blade that you can use
for the fiberglass stocks. As far as material left you will want to fill the rear area of the stock with
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glue so the glue will adhere to the pad as well as the screws thru the pad. This glue will also fill
any gaps in the stock at this area. I will take and grind out the foam or plastic or fiberglass on the
stocks after I cut them and give myself a lot of room here, about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch in depth. Ken
Reply:
Thanks Ken, Do you tape the stock like we do with wood? Does the fiberglass splinter at all like
wood?
Answer:
Yes I tape the stock not because the fiberglass spits or chips but because the outer surface can
chip some. This usually isnt an issue as you just fill in the chips with glue when you install the pad
but the less chips the less work etc.
Answer:
I have a 40 tooth carbide blade that I use for fiberglass only, and a 96 tooth carbide blade that I
save for wood. Jack
Question:
What CDs do you have that would be good to help me understand what needs to be done, relative to trigger jobs, and how to do it correctly and safely. I would like to study and learn how to
do trigger jobs on S&W, Model 1911, land long guns. What can you recommend? Are there individual CDs that I can buy, if so can I get a list.
Answer:
AGI has a DVD course on just triggers that Bob did. It covers what you indicate you want to do
trigger jobs on. (It covers virtually all the trigger systems). Once you learn the basic ideas then it
all carries over to the various guns out there. That is what is great about how Bob and I teach, you
dont learn to do a trigger job on an individual gun you learn to do trigger jobs. That way when a
gun comes in you examine it and figure out how it works and how to adjust the trigger. So many
people figure that if you dont know how to Work on a CZ-52, for example, then you cant do
a trigger job on it. BS, I do trigger jobs and make guns work and feed that I have never had apart
or seen before, just take it apart and figure out how it operates, then fix it. Since we dont work
at AGI we just work for AGI, I dont have a stock number for the DVD you want. Call AGI and ask
the girls there for the course that covers all the triggers. Ken
Answer:
I did trigger jobs on my guns for 20 years, just kind of bumbling through each one. I understood
the basics from readings but I learned how to do a trigger job on anything and do it safely from
Bobs AGI video course. The key is learning how they work and what modification to do to make
a safe and better trigger. Its several videos long but well worth it. I no longer bumble through. I
know how it should be done right and safe, thanks to Bob! Get the course. Youll never be sorry
you did!
Answer:
We also have individual trigger job courses on many individual guns. Check the catalog or the
website. - Jack
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Question:
Anybody have any idea when Gene will come out with this product he said would be available
a while back in January. Ive talked with the girls, they all say in a few weeks hell be getting
around to it. Being a new FFL Id like to have the flat rate book he spoke of so I dont screw myself or others. Thanx guys.
Answer:
Hi to all: Gene with AGI here. This is an update on the Business Success Package. I apologize that
it has taken me so long to get this out. I keep seeing things to add to it. But it is going out immediately after the Birthday bash and first annual AGI seminar which is being held in Reno next
weekend. June 1, 2, 3rd. I will continue to expand it as I see things that need to be added. In the
first version that I am sending out there are about 8 CDs that include interviews with instructors,
business info, tax planning and business structure info and an entire CD on how to do effective
Yellow page ads (these can be expensive if you do them wrong!) - The CDs are being replicated
this week. The first version of the Gunsmiths Flat Rate Shop Manual is finished and being duplicated at the same time. Just this last week I came up with a form to add to it that will enable students to help update and expand the manual. This manual will be a work in progress for many
years as we add and refine the jobs based on field input. But immediately it will be a great tool
for Gunsmiths that are getting started and even experienced Gunsmtihs. There is also a manual
on how to get Free Advertising and Promotion. Plus, information on marketing your business.
There will be more to follow as I continue to expand the package over time. So thanks for bearing with us as we create these tools for our students. Best, Gene
P.S. We are working on a whole new members website that will have new features, and constantly updated content. It should also be easier to use and benefit from. Currently that is scheduled to
come on line in about 60 to 90 days.
Question:
I have worked myself into quite a froth and I think that I am over thinking the question itself.
Here is how the question is worded.
On a blowback operated gun, what extracts the case from the Gun? a. the extractor b. vacuum
created by the opening slide c. the case extracts itself d. none of the above.
In regard to the question itself, extracts the case from the gun, sounds more like ejection as it
is leaving the gun and not the chamber, slide face, etc. If this is the case then I would say: d. none
of the above because the ejector would then execute this function and at that point wouldnt the
extractor play an equally import role by holding it up long enough for the ejector to get at it?.
If extracts from the gun means from the chamber of the barrel after it is fired then I would be
tempted to say: c. the case extracts itself, (as the resulting pressure from the propellant expanding causes the empty cartridge case to expand and move rearward, in turn pushing the slide back
rearward with it?).
I will apologize in advance if my logic or lack of it produces more questions from your reply but I
will wait to see how you respondthank you!
Answer:
Glad you are using your head and trying to reason things out. What Bob means is what extracts
the case from the chamber. Ken
97
Reply:
Now that I know it is the chamber that the case is being extracted from, I would still say that the
case extracts itself, even though I know it is the expanding gas of the propellant inside the case ,
we still say when one farts...I farted, thus the case extracts itself.
I of course want to get the answer correct, but I more want to understand, so I am going to plead
a case for some other answers in hopes that I will gain a better understanding. Thank you in advance for your patience.
If in this same scenario, the gun was not fired and we were extracting a live round then the extractor would perform this task, correct?
I am also a bit unclear as to when the vacuum pressure occurs after the gun is fired. Would that
be the small moment just as the bullet has left the barrel? If the above answer is yes then it would
be too late to play a part in the extraction of the case. Is this correct?
Are there other factors that have a play that I might be over-looking?
By the way, check the PISCO e-mail, as I wrote and sent you an AGI song (for Genes birthday) as
an mp3 file.
Answer:
What Bob wants to know on the test is what extracts a fired round. It does sound like you are
over analyzing this question, but I dont think that is bad you are using your head and reasoning things out. This will help when you are actually fixing a gun. (Although I have over analyzed
problems before and it helps to just stop and take a break and start over. Sometimes Bob will
come and look at it and often it is something really simple and basic.) So dont be or get discouraged.
Answer:
OK, youve worked on this long enough, stop agonizing. The correct answer is D None of the
above. You were on the right track the first time with the case extracting itself, but what actually
causes the case to back out of the chamber and drive the slide back is..Right! The high
pressure gas in the barrel from the combustion of the powder. Jack
ps; I know we dont usually answer the questions before you take the test, but sometimes I get
overwhelmed with pain as I watch someone torture themselves.
Question:
What typically would be the cause of a barrel bulging near the bushing, too much pressure I
would expect, but is it possible that a previous bullet was lodged in the barrel and or is the barrel
been subject to shooting too many lead bullets?
Answer:
Almost certainly a previous bullet stuck there. Normally bulges are caused by an obstruction of
some sort and sometimes it doesnt take much. The gases pushing the bullet spike when the bullet comes into anything that increases resistance and the area behind the bullet bulges.
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Question:
What are your thoughts on a customer giving you back a gun that you already fixed, and is still
complaining about things you know are not occurring, would you charge a shop fee to check it
out again? Thanks
Answer:
As you know we guarantee our work. If a gun comes back for repairs that we did we fix it no
charge. I understand what you are saying though, the best thing is to take the gun to the range
and check it out with the ammo being used, WITH the customer, if at all possible. That way he
can show you the problem. Often it is a matter of miscommunication, what the customer is complaining of is not what is wrong or is not what he is describing. How many times have we fixed a
gun that would not eject...the customer says the MT cases are left in the chamber...not an ejection problem but an extraction problem. If the customer is a pain in the neck and you dont care
to ever see him again then you can tell him that you are sure the problem he is describing is not
happening but you will gladly look at it for your basic check out fee, and if there is a problem you
will fix it for nothing, i.e. your warranty. Remember that some guns act different for some shooters, autos recoil different and you the gunsmith cannot get it to malfunction no matter what you
do or what type of ammo you run thru the gun, but the customer can get it to jam every time.
This is where seeing it function at the range is of great help. I have had that very thing happen to
me.
Question:
Is there a good time to apply for an FFL while working on the courses? I wasnt sure if it was an
as soon as possible because it takes a while thing or about halfway through or if its best to be
almost done and ready to do business? Also, if I applied and received the license, would there be
a problem if I didnt actually start my service full time if I received it prior to finishing the courses?
Advice?
Answer:
I started the paperwork when I was working on my last exam, it seem to work out the best. You
also have to get your tax and business paper work, insurance etc. I had no problems with the
ATFE, they were helpful to the extreme. The ATFE made sure to get to my shop before I went on
vacation, so the FFL would be in my mail when I returned. The agents in my area return calls and
answer questions without delay. I cant say a bad word. But then again I work with Cops everyday,
so maybe I get along with them better than the average person.
Answer:
If you are going to do this in a rented building make sure the landlord is ok with firearms. I had
a landlord say ok( in front of witnesses) and when the ATFE called to check she said no . I was accused of lying by the ATFE agent .I got it all straightened out but had to have two site inspections
instead of one by the ATFE(new location). Also you are supposed to have all the state and local
business things done within 30 days after getting your FFL. Jack R
Reply:
Thanks for the help so far. That does help kind of give me a time frame for when I need to start
the balls rolling.
Actually, to start I will be working out of a detached garage on my land. I have heard it is best to
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be disconnected to the house or when the ATFE does inspections they can also include the house.
Would disconnected include separate electric meter, water, etc. to be totally separate or just an
unattached building?
Also, is there a list of requirements or things the ATFE requires for the inspections? Its a garage,
not Fort Knox. I know there are legally required posters, and I already have a safe for storage,
but do they require any security measures to the building too? I am considering some preventive
measures, but I also cant rebuild the building with mortar and rebar. Starting out a retail style
building isnt really an option.
Answer:
When I applied for my FFL in Jan. I had the same setup you have - a detached wood building - a
fire rated safe and no security system. I had no problem - had my license in 2 weeks, but I think
that has a lot to do with the inspector you get and where you live. You might call the ATFE office
that will be doing your inspection and ask them what they want. Good luck.
Question:
I received a stock refinish job today. The customer brought in with the stock a after market plastic
butt plate from Brownells.It fits the curve of the stock perfect. But the width and height are too
wide and tall. Question is can I fit this just like if I was doing a recoil pad? My concern is will the
plastic melt when grinding it? Will it turn out smooth? Thanks Gregg
Answer:
First make sure that the plate is solid on the underside all the way to the outside of the stock.
Next make sure that there is no border that will look bad when it is dressed down to the stock
dimensions. Finally you can grind it down but go slow, use a coarse grit (60) belt, and dont let it
get too hot as it will melt. Then just sand it with the stock and make it look good.
Question:
I am to the point where I need a good welder and am trying to consider all my choices, given a
limited budget. I found on some of the other posts in particular to go with a TIG. I also saw some
things to look for in a unit that I had a question about. There was a suggestion that it should be
at least 30 amps. Is this input or output?
Also, I am looking at a model which would serve other purposes as well by HTP which does MIG,
TIG, and Stick (though it said it wont TIG weld aluminum). Would this be a good starter as an all
purpose welder or should I look to keep my units separate? If I keep them separate, what would
be a good starter, affordable TIG to look for? I dont want to be tool poor! :)
Answer:
I am not sure how much you would use MIG or stick in gunsmithing. TIG lets you control the area
and amount of heat added to the piece you are welding on, along with exact placement of metal.
You can put a TIG torch on any DC welder but the electrode will be energized as long as the
welder is on. Then you need a gas bottle and regulator The more expensive welders will have less
voltage fluctuation but the big thing is duty cycle, which should not be a problem with the small
parts we deal with. As far as amperage goes I would get something that has about 90- 100 amps
or so output this will do up to 1/4 or so, the key thing is to get something with a variable output
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not just a few settings. If you need to weld aluminum you will need to get an A/C welder with a
high frequency output. Just my opinion, hopes this helps Jack R
Reply:
TIG is the way! A little difficult to master though. Brazing is another option
Answer:
You will eventually need a gas torch to silver solder, heat treat, and case harden. TIG is the ONLY
way to go for actually welding on gun parts. You can get a terrific education in how to do this
at almost any of the week long NRA sponsored gunsmithing courses at the various schools that
have gunsmithing programs. AGI, of course, has a great welding course that actually see how the
puddle works while welding. - Jack
Question:
More questions this morning. Are there any used reamers for sale or someplace to rent them for
us new gunsmiths? If we have to buy them the first time it will take most all the income from a
barrel setback just to buy one reamer. Also are there insurance that are cheapest/better for product liability insurance for gunsmiths?
Answer:
I think Glen I interviewed someone at the Shot Show. See vol 11 of the Gun Tech DVD. The subject
they were discussing was about another subject but Glen mentioned that he was renting reamers.
Hope this helped.
Reply:
I looked in the news letter after I replied to your question so see page 6.
4-D Reamer Rentals ph. # 307-232-8158
Question:
Any thoughts on Dura coat?
I have just gotten a kit containing the Dura coat & the DVD.
I have read on the net that even with the oven cure that its best to leave the painted parts alone
for 24+ hours
Answer:
I have used the non-oven cure Duracoat. I just did a S&W mod. 28 and made my own camo pattern using the techniques they used on their video. It turned out really nice. I cured it about 20
minutes after each coat and let it set for about an hour after the last coat. After that I was able to
reassemble the gun without marring the finish. If you blast the gun first you will get a nice matte
finish. Hope this helps.
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Question:
Ive just bought a nice South Bend heavy 10 lathe with some nice extras, but of course I need a
few more items. Does anyone know the proper name of the alignment fixture Darrel uses on the
end of the spindle hole opposite the chuck? It is basically a collar with four screws to align a barrel (or presumably any material) through the spindle so it runs true and doesnt depend only on
the chuck. I dont know what this thing is called. Also, where would be a good place to get one?
Thanks.
Answer:
I dont know what it is called for a South Bend lathe but on the Grizzly lathes they are referred to
as outboard end support screws. A gunsmith I know made an adapter that goes in the end of
the lath that has four screw holes tapped in it to do what you are talking about. He made it on
his lath so maybe you could do the same. Good luck and congrats on your new lathe.
Reply:
I have heard of it being called a spider. Whatever it is, I think you have to make it. Never seen
anything like it for sale. Think it is mostly used by gunsmiths. Thanks guys. I thought I might end
up making one. Thats fine though - part of the trade.
Answer:
For whatever it is worth, I made an adapter for my lathe using a piece of 2 inch cold rolled round
stock. I made mine to fit over the spindle shaft and drilled and tapped three 5/16 x 18 holes for
the barrel adjustment and one on the other end to secure it to the shaft. It works great. I just
used it for the first time to support a barrel to thread a barrel extension. I think it would have
been better though with 4 adjustment screws rather than three.
Answer:
It is called a spider and most of us made them in school. They are also available from Brownells.
It is a collar that either threads or tight slip fits over the outboard end of the spindle. About fl
should extend past the end of the spindle shaft. About 3/8 from the end of the collar drill and
tap 4 x 28 holes at 90 degree intervals. With the screws threaded in and looking down the shaft
it should look like a scope reticle. Center the right end of the barrel in the 4 jaw chuck and the
left end with the 4 screws. Make sure you indicate both ends to as close to 0 0 as you can get
them using bore plugs to run on the bore center. I made a slip into the end of the spindle shell
with a stop collar and a 60 degree entry hole to make centering the breech end automatic when
Im crowning barrels. Jack
Question:
I have made some small parts and tried to harden them, but they still seem to be grabbing each
other. I got the metal hot, not red hot but more like a bright orange color Im using a propane
torch .Is my heat not up high enough? when I heat the part up and dump it into the compound
{Kasenit} how long should I let it sit in the compound; when it is in there it sizzles . When I pull it
out it tends to clump to it about 5 times the diameter of the part should I knock off the excess or
should I just burn the clump of Kasenit? Can my torch get the metal hotter? The metal that Im
using was bought at a hardware store; it says that it is weld steel flat. Should I let it sit in the compound longer, or should I pull it out sooner. Any advice would be nice.
102
Answer:
OK before you do anything make sure you KNOW exactly what kind of metal you have. Now
when you are case hardening you want to get the part cherry red, it sounds like you are getting
it a bit hotter than is necessary, I have a tendency to do the same thing so dont get too worried.
After heated cherry red, dip it in the Kasenit and pull it out, now that the Kasenit is sticking to
the part burn it off, and what I mean is heat the part with the Kasenit on it, some of it will fall off
and some will melt onto the part, watch the part and heat it to cherry red and repeat, depending
on how big the part is you may have to do this 3-4 times. It sounds like you have the AGI video
Bob made so you are on the right track. The last time you heat it red drop it into cold water. Your
part will be hard on the surface as it should be. But be sure you know exactly what kind of steel it
is before you go to all the trouble of making a part and then heat treating it, just to find out you
heat treated it incorrectly and it breaks the first time you, or worse, the customer uses it.
Question:
Ken, in the gunsmithing course Bob talks about TIG welding with oil hardening steel. What do
you use for filler metal for this. At the local welding supply they have a variety of filler rods for
TIG welding, but none are identified as oil hardening. Could you use drill rod or spring steel like
they sell at Brownells?
Answer:
DO NOT USE DRILL ROD. That will be brittle and break. I use the straight spring stock from
Brownells.
Answer:
Contact Lincoln, Miller or Hobart customer service, they can help you with all of the welding tech
stuff if the local guy cant. You really want the 2% Thoriated rods of the right steel. Jack
Question:
I know youve answered this question many times, but could you please tell me a good model of
Foredom tool to buy, there are so dang many Im not sure which one to get and my old Dremel
bit the dust. I looked through the chat board here and cant find where you gave us this info before.
Answer:
Actually I dont think I have given out that before but I will. I dont know what model I use at the
shop so give me a day or two to get the correct model. Ken
Answer:
The model of Foredom I use in the shop is the Series S. Hope that helps you.
Reply:
We sell the SR Kit, motor, hand piece, foot control and bits for ~ $50 off list. - Jack
103
Question:
I was wondering if anyone has seen plans for a bullet trap that we could use to test fire the firearms we repair?
Answer:
I have seen snail traps (www.snailtraps.com) and they are made by Savage. These are the only
practical, safe one I have come across. They seem to have them in all sizes too.
Question:
Any opinions on cleaning rods & the materials they are made of. In all the reading I have done
along with the videos I see a difference of opinions. I have cleaned many guns in a few decades
of shooting without problems. I have several kinds but I need to rework what I have. Wood ram
rods in muzzle loaders (ML) are said to collect grit & wear away the rifling. The same is said about
aluminum for rifles. Yet aluminum is commonly used for range rods for MLs.
Fiberglass ram rods are said to be the same as wood & other experts swear they are safe. I have
used these as well as brass. I use a muzzle guard with all these without a problem other than
breaking wood rods.
I like the weight & feel of the brass ram rods & plan to make brass rods that will stay with my
MLs as well as a set for shop use. In modern cleaning rods it is said that aluminum is too soft &
brass OK. yet is seems that the brass can leave a bit of copper in the bore making it appear there
is still copper fouling in the bore. I have read that steel rods can cause similar smudges but I
dont seem to have that trouble.
Expensive steel rods with a plastic coating claims to be safe for the rifling but it seems to me that
if the plastic is soft then it can also pick up grit & harm the bore. Stainless seems a good idea as
do the baked on coating. I am leaning toward stainless.
Certainly one piece rods are stiffer & preferred. Bore guides are another must have & I use them.
I MADE one for my M1A muzzle brake from spent 357 cases. Drill out a hole in the base for the
cleaning rod. The spent case rod guide fits inside the muzzle brake. I keep one with the cleaning
kit in the butt stock. I am also considering making some of these one piece rods as soon as I have
a lathe here. It seems to me these would be good projects on the lath for me.
I havent seen a supplier of the rotating straight handles.
Any suggestions out there?
Answer:
Well like everything else there are a lot of opinions. Many are based on speculation rather than
actual work and results. I use a wooden ramrod for my flintlock. A brass one is great for tighter
loads, and I have a friend who uses one in his muzzle loader. I think if you care for your front
stuffer you should not have any problems. It may be that we arent running as many rounds a
day thru our antiquee guns but most that I have built and inspected over the years and others I
have inspected dont have any excessive wear.
As far as center fire rifles, we use the Dewey coated rods. I suppose dirt could imbed in the coating and scratch the bore but we use a guide and carefully push the rods thru with even pressure. I
think it is more important to just be careful with what you do have and not run jags and brushes
104
into the sides of the bore. The one piece stainless rods are fine as well.
I have seen rifles that have the very common cleaning process done where the bore is cleaned
with patches and a jag and a brass brush FROM THE MUZZLE that show little or no undo wear
and shoot great. Remember most shooters are not target shooters, they are hunters and plinkers
so if they try to keep the gun in some kind of condition at least they are trying. They wont do it
as well as a Bench rest shooter would. Personally I think that the bore should be maintained as
well as can be but some people are over cautious, and look down their nose at those that dont
do it like the pros.
Reply:
This is pretty much the conclusion I had come to but it is very helpful to verify things with you.
I plan to buy several rods shortly & didnt want to make a mistake that would be costly.
Question:
Does anyone know a good reliable cold blue process? I have tried Birchwood Casey in the past
with limited success. I took in an old Win. 94 and it could use some touchup, but I dont want to
take away any collector value in the process. Most of the wear is on the bottom third of the receiver, where it has been carried all these years. There is also some wear on the sides of the magazine tube and barrel. Thanks.
Answer:
To preserve the collector value do NOT use or do ANY bluing. A gun that is in original condition,
i.e. wear and tear and scratches is worth more than one that has been reblued in any manner. If
you want, clean any rust off with fine steel wool and use a good gun oil, but other wise leave as
it.
Reply:
That is what I ended up doing. I cleaned it up as best I could with 000 steel
wool and Kroil and worked out really good. Thanks for the info.
Question:
Can I put BY APPOINTMENT ONLY on my FFL app. and not get it rejected? I intend to work part
time in my home, whenever I choose to at this time. Thanks in advance for any help.
Answer:
If I remember correctly, the kit that I bought to help me get my FFl said to put down business
hours and at least 4 hours per day. When the inspector inspected me I asked him what if I wasnt
here when he came to inspect. He said if youre here youre here. Im working out of my house
part time also. When you have a job its hard to keep business hours. Im getting to the point Im
going to look for a part time morning job so I can try to keep business hours. I think it will be
easier for me and the customers.
Reply:
I just found the booklet that came with my course, forgot I even had it, and it states you do not
105
have to be present during those hours if you do not have any appointments. I would assume
therefore that I dont have to tell ATF its appointment only. First I have to get these uninformed
people at the local level to issue me a business license. Good luck and good clients to you.
Answer:
Yes, just put down your business hours and let it go at that. Good luck with your local business
license. I had no trouble getting mine, just more time and money. Gregg
Reply:
Thanks again Greg. Just got back from city hall. They said I can apply for a contingency use permit and go thru the planning commission public meetings. Im kinda worried whether ATF considers that a business license or not. Ill give the Chicago office a call when I can get some time.
Any recommendations on insurance or bonding?
Question:
Am I correct in that stainless steel is a softer and more malleable steel than the alloy steel used
in most blued guns? If this is correct, then buying a stainless steel gun for a greater price has few
advantages.
Answer:
You are correct. Many companies claim their stainless parts are hardened etc. but stainless is
softer than regular steel and will not last as long.
Reply:
How much faster will the stainless wear?
Answer:
Since stainless steel is softer it will start right from the get go. Now this doesnt mean that stainless steel wont work for guns because if it never did then all of the stainless guns would be
wrecked and no one could or would sell any more. BUT stainless steel is not as hard and will not
last as long as a regular steel gun. Most people dont shoot their guns enough to wear them out
and most hunters definitely dont shoot their super zapper ultra range must have elk killer magnums enough to wear them out.
Question:
My question is kind of two fold.
First off I got the Professional Gun Cleaning Secrets video and when Gene Shuey cleans the rifle
he leaves it on the stock. Is there a reason he doesnt take it off the stock?
I have a bolt action 22 rim fire Marlin rifle and I remove the stock every time I clean it. Should I
not be doing this or does it matter? Any and all information is appreciated. I want to learn and
do things right.
Second part to my question is on Boresnakes? I have one for my shotgun and it works great for
cleaning. But do they hurt the barrel? Are they good, bad or indifferent?
106
Answer:
Well to be honest I have not seen the cleaning video with Gene so I cant say why he didnt take it
apart other than to just speculate. I would guess he was showing that for the beginner in taking
care of his/her rifle. Taking the stock off is not a bad thing as you get to all the parts under the
stock, and the oil wont be soaking into the stock from applications above the stock. Now if the
gun is a hunting rifle and it uses pressure on the barrel and is sighted in then when you take it
apart the point of impact can change. So you may not want to take it out of the stock until the
hunt is over and the gun is ready for storage. The bore snakes work great for quick cleans. When
you want to get all the lead out as they say you will need to use a rod and a good brush and the
correct solvents. The snakes are great for camp or a pack in hunt. They do not damage the barrel
when used correctly.
Question:
What is the difference between oil harden and water harden steel
Answer:
Not a dumb question if you dont know. Oil hardening steel is steel that is hardened when it
is heated red hot and quenched in oil. Water hardening steel is steel that gets hard when it is
heated red and quenched in water. There are also air-hardening steels. If you heat oil hardening
steel red and quench it in water it will OFTEN break into many pieces or crack, the water shocks it
and hardens it too fast. If you heat water hardening steel red hot and quench it in oil it will not
harden or will just harden the surface slightly. So you have to know what you have before you
make a part from a piece of steel so you can temper it correctly, or the first time you use the gun
(or whatever it is you just fixed) will break.
Reply:
One more time. What is the benefit between oil and/or water. I can only think that the oil would
not cool as rapidly as water and might allow the metal to flex slightly more then water cooled
steel before breaking.
Answer:
They BOTH harden all the way thru when they are hardened so they are brittle. They are just different metals that need the different quench solution to harden.
Question:
What is the difference between oil harden and water harden steel?
Answer:
Not a dumb question if you dont know. Oil hardening steel is steel that is hardened when it
is heated red hot and quenched in oil. Water hardening steel is steel that gets hard when it is
heated red and quenched in water. There are also air-hardening steels. If you heat oil hardening
steel red and quench it in water it will OFTEN break into many pieces or crack, the water shocks it
and hardens it too fast. If you heat water hardening steel red hot and quench it in oil it will not
harden or will just harden the surface slightly. So you have to know what you have before you
make a part from a piece of steel so you can temper it correctly, or the first time you use the gun
107
(or whatever it is you just fixed) will break.

Reply:
One more time. What is the benefit between oil and/or water. I can only think that the oil would
not cool as rapidly as water and might allow the metal to flex slightly more then water cooled
steel before breaking.
Answer:
They BOTH harden all the way thru when they are hardened so they are brittle. They are just different metals that need the different quench solution to harden.
Question:
The AGI stock finishing video mentions using a blue paste combination polish & wax as the final
step. What is the name and source for this past?
Answer:
I had the same problem as you. I used TURTLE WAX POLISHING COMPOUND and scratch remover.
It worked excellent, I even had a little orange peal that I worked out with it.
Reply:
Thanks for the info on stock polish. Ill try it tomorrow. Seems like Im following your foot steps.
Question:
Does anyone know if the plunger tube on this gun (Llama .45 Auto) was made of metal? I had a
local gunsmith order me one and it was plastic. The tube seems to be made from a cast and the
part that I got does not fit the profile of the gun. It appears that they sent me the outer casting
of the mold used to make it. The tube gets screwed in the frame not staked. I was told that if I
order another one that I will get the same thing. Has anyone ever heard of this problem before?
Answer:
No problem on helping. The old Llamas had steel parts, the new and improved Llamas have
that wonderful space age material that belongs in every gun......Plastic. It belongs in all guns as
you have found out because it lasts a long time and is very durable. OK sorry about the sarcasm, I
am NOT a fan of Plastic in my guns and now you know why.
Question:
Hello. From the last welding thread, Ive gathered the big three (Miller, Lincoln and Hobart) offer
good TIG units but which is the best for us? Moreover, which would be the best buy for the up
and coming Gunsmith?
I need one that I can run in my garage, (220v service) - could go with a phase converter if I have
to but would rather not.
Looking for a complete set, I want to be able to start welding right out of the box, would rather
108
not have to purchase a bunch of accessories right of the bat. Money is an issue, will be until I can
actually start making money with this but at the same time I do not want to buy a set that will
need to be upgraded in a year or a unit to just get by with, thatll need to be replaced in a few
years or less. Thank You in advance, I appreciate any input.
Answer:
I know what you mean, money is an issue. Why dont you farm out what you need TIG welded to
start, if you can find someone to do it for you. I got lucky and have a customer that I just refinished a stock for that is a shop supervisor at a fabrication shop. I know it is a pain to have to run
to get it done. Im going to try to make some money and hopefully by then maybe AGI will come
up with a deal for us on a machine that will meet all our needs.
Answer:
Any of these companys entry level TIGs will do the same jobs at about the same price. It just depend whose you can get on sale at the best price. You cant go wrong with any of them. Price will
be ~ $1500 and all you will need after that is the Argon tank. - Jack
Question:
Ive been dying to ask these questions!
Ive learned a lot about working on barrels throughout the course and know welding on any of
them is almost always forbidden. What is the process the factories are using to TIG weld the lugs
and other fittings on their bbls? Are they normalizing / heat treating after completing the weld?
If so how do they prevent scale in the bore? Or is the bbl drilled, reamed and rifled after the
weldment? There is a lot of interest here in the New England Handi Rifle and H&R Ultra Hunter
Rifles. Ive been asked if its possible to custom re-barrel them in cartridges such as the .260 Rem.
With longer bbl length. My answer was, Machining a bbl lug woud be fairly simple but welding it
to the bbl poses a serious and potentially dangerous problem with welding stresses etc. I Thought
I would ask a real gunsmith.
Answer:
I believe that the welding is done before the final heat treat process of the barrel is done. I dont
know how they keep from getting scale on the inside of the barrel, the barrels can be filled with
something that will or can absorb heat etc. and they may even have a way of running water or
coolant thru the barrels to keep them from scaling. I will have to look into it further and let you
know. Ken
Reply:
Thanks for your answer. Ive done some research on the subject and no one seems to know or is
willing to share the information. Id be interested in what you find out.
Answer:
I know that when Remington installs one of their barrel lugs that the whole thing is tempered,
annealed etc afterward. According to Bob TC uses an induction welding process and the barrels
are chambered after the lug is attached. Hope that helps, Ken
Answer:
I forgot to tell you if someone wanted us to make a barrel i.e. longer or different contour or caliWARNING: This is provided as general information only. Situations may vary. Consult a professional gunsmith regarding questions for
109
ber than what the factory or factory custom shop was willing to do we would turn that job down.
Ken
Answer:
Argon gas can be used as a purge gas to prevent oxidation of a rifled bore from the heat of TIG
welding. I have done some TIG welding on internally polished ss piping used in computer chip
mfg processes, and I can say the process is excellent.
Question:
Im installing a recoil Pad on a new rifle. The stock is wood with many layers of glossy finish.
Almost like plastic. What is the best saw blade (teeth per inch) to use in my cut off saw to cut a
stock like this? I do not want to chip the finish. I will be using masking tape around the area to be
cut.
Answer:
I cannot remember off hand the number of teeth on my blade, but I buy the 12 inch blade designed for fine finishing cuts on furniture. I like the 12 Dewalt blades. Ill look in the shop tomorrow; I have a new one hanging on the wall and will let you know for sure. I think it is like 82
teeth but please dont hold me to that. Ill post it for you tomorrow.
Answer:
A really thin kerf non-carbide laminate blade (80-100 teeth in 10-12) will give the smoothest cut
because tool steel is sharper than carbide, it just wont last more than a few stocks w/o re-sharpening. Other wise a thin kerf carbide with ~80+ teeth is your best bet.
Question:
Now that I have info on Welders, any ideas about lathes? Start with a mini and upgrade to something bigger to do rifle barrels later? Or try and find a longer lathe to begin with? Money is a
factor. Any ideas? Models, companies sizes? Thanks again.
Answer:
Once again, AGI to the rescue! Darrell Holland teaches a 3 module (Lathe, Mill, General) machine
shop course, available from AGI. They are available separately or as a package. He answers all of
your questions in there.
The short answers are :
1. Get a 10X30 or 12X36 full sized lathe. Much of what you will be doing involves barrels and you
may as well start with a lathe that will handle them.
2. Clausing, South Bend or Jet are good lathes and are usually available used at a VERY reasonable price.
3. Some folks like gear driven and some prefer belt drives; both have their points, just like blondes
and brunettes.
110
Reply:
Thanks for the info,
If I was a little more patient I probably wouldnt ask so many questions. I bought the full gunsmith course from AGI and I believe it includes the full machine shop course. I was going to wait
until I finished the gunsmith program before I started in on the machine shop, but I guess I get a
little excited. Anyway, thanks again for the info, its a place to start, and its always nice to have
more than one source of opinions.
Question:
I am part way through the Professional Gunsmithing Course and noticed so far that Mr. Dunlap
uses a TIG welder to add metal a lot. I want to add that to my shop, can you MIG weld as well in
gunsmithing applications? Should it only be TIG welding? Trying to figure out what type of machine to start looking at, I am by no means a professional welder, but understand some of the
basics. Already have an oxy-acetylene set up, but figure that would get the metal too hot in the
process, where as MIG or TIG would be relatively quick and precise. Any opinions or info or advice? Thanks in advance
Answer:
You definitely want to go TIG, NOT MIG. The TIG allows you to put controlled amounts of heat &
metal where you want it. Gas torches are useful for heat treating, case hardening and soldering,
but TIG is the way to go for general repair. AGI has a new welding course that takes you from A-Z
through all types of welding, and it thoroughly covers TIG welding for gunsmithing applications.
As a Pro-Course student you will be eligible for a special discount on it.
Question:
Do you have a stock number for oil hardening steel (Starrett) from Brownells?
Answer:
I dont Im sorry to say, but any spring stock is oil hardening though. If you cant find what youre
looking for e-mail me again and Ill find out what the part numbers or stock numbers are. (I dont
have a Brownells catalog here with me but I can look it up). It will take me a couple of days so
please let me know if I need to follow up on it.
Reply:
Hey, never mind on following up, I did find and ordered some from Brownells. Although, I do
wish I had gone with you to TIG. Any recommendations for in that area?
Answer:
Gene Kelly has been up here this week so weve been able to talk with him about several things
and that have come up. AGI has a new welding course that takes you from A-Z through all types
of welding, and it thoroughly covers TIG welding for gunsmithing applications. As a Pro-Course
student you will be eligible for a special discount on it.
The other way you can go is to take a class at your local community college. Good luck and remember trigger take up is and can be a VERY good thing.
111
Question:
I have been bluing now for about 6 weeks. Can I add water to bring the temp. down in the bluing
tank while parts are in tank? How am I to recognize the different metals in guns to know when to
blue at 292 or raise the temp. to 315 to get some of the metals to turn black blue. What do I need
to nickel plate guns?
Answer:
Never add anything to the salts while the parts are in. Put the parts in at 292 and if they dont
blue and you know they are not stainless or plated keep raising the temperature until they turn.
Shock the parts now and then also.
Reply:
What is meant by shock the parts?
Answer:
Shocking the parts is as the temperature is rising with the parts in the salts you take the parts
out and quench them in cold water then return them to the hot bluing salts. This was part of
our standard instruction when I was a student at Gunsmithing School and I have used it to good
affect. It helps the parts change color/blue especially the parts that dont want to change, those
that are extra hard etc.
Answer:
You can Electroless nickel plate without too much equipment, just take a look in Brownells catalog. Talk to the Customer Service guys there and they will be happy to give you all the help you
need. Electro-plating requires a lot more equipment. - Jack
Question:
I was wondering, do you need to heat treat the entire receiver for AK type rifles when using a flat
to construct the receiver. I have the Building the AKS Rifle Video and after watching it several
times I still dont recall hearing anything about heat treating except for the bolt rails. Did I miss
something here or is it not necessary to heat treat the entire receiver.
I have seen instructions from others ( not AGI) stating to heat treat the fire control holes then
go back and draw down the entire receiver @ 600 degrees for 1 hour. Just thought I would ask
before taking on the project, a little confused on this subject.
Answer:
It is not necessary to heat treat the whole receiver. The areas that need the heat treatment are
the areas where parts wear against one another. The rails definitely and around the fire control
holes is not a bad idea but it is not necessary. As far as how you should heat treat depends on
what kind of metal the receiver is made out of.
Question:
What are the best tips for bluing guns like with cold blue and does anyone know how Smith and
Wesson gets that beautiful bluing done thanks all in advance. mike
112
Answer:
There are different types of bluing; Hot Caustic, Slow Rust (a cold process) and what is often refered to as Cold Bluing.
To touch up a part you can use Cold Blue but dont expect a factory matching finish. Here how
you ca do a pretty good job on a small area.
1. Degrease thoroughly with alcohol or another clean degreaser.
2. Heat the area with a hair drier or a heat gun.
3. Dip a Q tip into your solution (44/40, or another brand) and dab on the spot
once time in a circular motion. Throw away the Q tip. Dont reuse or re-dip you will contaminate your solution and the part.
4. Wipe lightly with a clean cloth and lightly oil. Dont use Break Free as it may lift the repaired
finish.
If you want to do really high end finishes watch the AGI Slow Rust & Nitre Bluing Course.
If you want to be able to do professional firearms bluing watch the AGI Professional Hot Caustic Bluing course. It also covers complete metal preparation. It is better than the course I went
through at Gunsmithing School.
Answer:
The beautiful S&W blue and the equally beautiful Colt Royal Blue are not a function of the bluing
process, they are the result of the meticulous hand polishing by truly skilled craftsmen prior to the
bluing. - Jack
Question:
Broke a 6-48 bottoming tap off in the hole and cant seem to get it out. Have tried the tap removal tool to no avail. Does anyone know of a fool proof way to get a broken bottoming tap out
of a hole?
Answer:
If it is a high carbon steel tap, just take a punch and hit the tap smartly at an angle, then hit the
tap from the other side, the tap should fracture and come out in pieces. For high speed steel, you
can use a very small diamond coated burr and with your Foredom/Dremel tool cut up the tap. Be
aware this takes some time. You can also grind out a SMALL area where the tap is imbedded in
the metal and jockey the tap out. Last of all you can wallow out the hole SLIGHTLY; just enough
to get the tap out then re-drill and re-tap to a larger hole. Hope this helps.
Question:
Ive been working on several old guns lately and find that the pins will not drive out of the receivers. Is there an easy way to get these pins out? I hate to drill them out and Im tired of replacing
bent punches. It has to be a very common problem. Any ideas?
113
Answer:
Use a starter punch. A starter punch is just a punch without a long stem. Use a starter punch that
is just smaller than the pin you are trying to remove, use it to break the pin loose then use the
standard punch to drive the pin out the rest of the way. (I use standard punches that the stem has
broken off of for my starter punches, just grind the face of the broken punch flat)...
Reply:
Thanks Ken. Ill have to try that. I did manage to get them out with a standard punch after using
Blaster penetrating copolymer over night. A mechanic who builds race cars told me that its the
best stuff he ever used. I guess it really is! I got it at Advanced Auto. Its worth a couple of bucks
to keep handy.
Answer:
Thanks for the info on the penetrating copolymer, Ive never used it so I will have to give it a shot.
I will ask Bob if he has used it or not. Another penetrating oil weve used is Kroil, it has worked
well for us.
Answer:
First, try getting your hands on an Ultrasonic Cleaner. Ultrasound Cleaners loosen rust and clean
more effectively then hand cleaning. Ive seen light rust disappear with 30 minutes in the L&R
Ultrasound. I was told that Ultrasound Cleaners could be had inexpensively. Another way to get
those tightly fit pins out would be to soak in Kroil. I would probably then resort to using a Heat
Gun (a kind of hairdryer like tool) that warms the metal to about 190F degrees. This definitely
gets things loose. A combination of all three in this order would probably work quite well for
you. 1. Ultrasound to remove light surface rust (30 minutes). 2. Soak in Kroil for a couple of hours.
3. Apply heat with Heat Gun and then try driving out the pins.
Question:
I need the above for the bake-on coatings (rifles, shotguns and revolvers). How to build (w/material list), web sites, pictures, descriptions. I have the KG Industries building a homemade oven
but would like all input I can get.
Answer:
If you dont want to make them, get an old commercial pizza oven for the big stuff and a smaller
home oven for small jobs. Make the spray booth, that way you can get exactly what you want.
114

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b. make the left (rear) hammer notch positive

anyone can work on!!!

Thanks and sorry for the ramble

buffing wheel to take the sharp edges off. - Jack

strength of the system is increased by one third.

(or whatever it is you just fixed) will break.

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