Professional Documents
Culture Documents
4.1 Introduction
Fashion, as we know, is the prevailing or accepted style in dress or personal decoration
established or adopted during a particular time or season. Fashion comes from a latin word
Facere, which means to make. Fashion is a style, which is accepted by a majority of people.
The fashion is always based on a specific style and has a life span known as fashion cycle. It
becomes important for a designer to understand how fashion ideas spread and is accepted by
various customers. The variations in the process of adoption of fashion are explained in this unit.
It is commonly observed that a fashion sometimes is taken with great enthusiasm for a brief
period of time and loses popularity dramatically. Keeping in view, the different types of fashion,
which comes into the market, we would differentiate the fashion and understand the meaning of
high fashion, mass fashion, fad etc. The categories of these fashionable apparels would also be
dealt in this unit.
4.2 Fashion Life Cycles
Each season consumers are exposed to multitude of new styles created by designers. Some are
rejected immediately by the press or by the buyer on the retail level, but others are accepted for a
time, as demonstrated by consumers purchasing and wearing them.
Every fashion has a life span, which is known as fashion cycle. In other words, the way in which
fashion changes is usually described as a fashion cycle. The fashion cycle is in the form of a bell
shaped curve encompassing five stages:
Introduction
Rise
Peak
Decline
Rejection
The cycle can reflect the acceptance of a single style from one designer or a general style such as
the miniskirt.
Rejection: In the last phase of the fashion cycle, some consumers have already turned to new
looks, thus beginning a new cycle. The rejection or discarding of a style just because it is out of
fashion is called consumers obsolesce. The style is no longer accepted at any price however
low it may be. The volume of sales at this stage is zero or negative.
The fashion cycle as explained by Everett Rogers has three major stages, which are the
beginning stage, peak or popular stage and the declining stage. The fashion cycle developed by
Everett Rogers is based in the diffusion of innovations in a society. There are five categories,
which are as follows:
The innovators
The early adapters or opinion leader
The early majority or masses
The late majority or late adaptors
The laggard
1. Fashion innovators are the first to adopt a new style. These people are interested in innovative
and unique features. This is the introductory stage.
2. When a style or fashion is introduced, it is adopted by people who are highly motivated by a
desire to dress differently from others. These people have money and desire to be fashionable.
These pacesetters are highly limited in number. These fashion opinion leaders may be the
celebrities who copy the fashion innovators and change the product into a popular style. The
fashion at this stage is called high fashion. The term high fashion is used to describe a very new
style whose acceptance is limited to those who want to be first to adopt the newest fashions and
can afford the same at high prices. The product is produced by more companies and is sold at
more retail outlets.
3. At the peak of its popularity, a fashion product is adopted by the masses. This fashion slowly
spreads and is imitated by a great number of people who tend to follow rather than lead. At this
stage the fashion is stated to be at its peak. The fashion becomes so popular that it is mass
produced and distributed at prices, which are in the reach of common people.
4. As its popularity fades, the fashion product is often marked for clearance, to invite the bargain
hunters and consumers, the late adopters and laggards, who are slow to recognize and adopt a
fashionable style. Finally, the fashion is copied and supplied to such a greater extent that
consumer gets bored of seeing the same fashion. Some consumer may be seen wearing the same
fashion but are not ready to purchase the same. This is the declining stage of fashion.
Short-lived fashions, or fads, can come and go in a single season. They lack the design strength
to hold consumer attention for very long. Fads usually affect only a narrow consumer group,
begin in lower price ranges, are relatively simple and inexpensive to copy, and therefore flood
the market in a very short time. Because of the market saturation, the public tires of them quickly
and they die out. The peak of these cycles is very high. The rise and fall of fads can be seen in
figure 4.4.
is totally new. As the century and the millennium draw to a close, designers are showing many
nostalgic looks of the 1940s or 1960s. However, the use of different fabric, colors, and details
make the looks unique to the turn of the century.
4.4 Theories of Fashion Adoption
It is important to understand how new fashions and ideas are disseminated or spread and how
they are adopted to the taste, lifestyles and the budget of various consumers. Acceptance implies
that consumers must buy and wear a style to make it a fashion. Karl Lagerfeid remarked,
Theres no fashion if nobody buys it. However, different market segments adopt different
fashion. What appeals to junior customers would probably not appeal to a missy customer.
Designers plan styles to appeal to certain consumer group. It is then up to the public to decide
whether these styles will become fashion. Acceptance by large number of people makes a fashion
successful.
Adoptions of fashion just depend upon the taste of consumers and their spending habit. To
understand the concept of fashion adoption, there are three variations in adoption process;
1. Traditional fashion adoption or trickle down theory
2. Reverse adoption or trickle up theory
3. Mass dissemination or trickle across
enough to become acceptable to the most conservative buyers. The cheapest versions are seen at
discount houses soon after. Consumers then tire of the look and its popularity fades.
The Length of this process is influenced by location. If the new look starts in Europe, then
people in New York and other large cities will probably be the first to accept it. It may take a
year or two for many Americans to fit even a modified version of the look into their lifestyles.
Fashion implies newness and freshness. Yet as fashion is copied, modified, and sold at lower and
lower prices, it loses its newness, quality and other essential design elements.
4.4.2 Reverse Adoption
This is also known as Trickle up theory or Bottom up theory. This is just the opposite of the
traditional trickle down theory. This type of fashion adoption is very rare and can be observed for
certain styles only. In general, fashion follows the trickle down theory. This theory establishes
that fashion of certain styles to be more specifics originate at the lower classes of the social
pyramid. In other words, it originates from people on the streets or the worker class. Such
fashion mainly starts for the reasons of comforts, affordability and durability. Those factors then
appeal to the middle class who have a little more money to spend, so they improve the styles to
fit into their lifestyles and adapt themselves to the fashion. The designers, seeing the popularity
of the style improve it further and by applying their creativity and resources they make the
fashion exclusive. The price keeps on increasing till it is out of the reach of common people and
a very few could afford it.
Since 1960s, the manufacturers and retailers pay more attention to consumer innovation. They
watch the people on streets to find ideas. Some of these ideas eventually reach the designer. The
Grunge Look of the early 1990s is a good example of street look that reached the runways. The
Denim Revolution of the good old jeans is another such example. Jeans was first introduced in
1950s as a uniform for the workers of United States, because of its durability and comfort. It
began as functional need of the consumers, later it caught the attraction of the designers and it is
now a fashion craze, introduced in designer collections. Vintage fashion purchased by young
people in thrift shops has influenced recent collections. Taking another such example, a Hippie
style which was very much famous in India during 1960s 1970s. It was a fashion inspired
from Hippie community of American countries.
Some TV channels are entirely dedicated to fashion such as FTV and Trend. There is no
longer one channel of fashion dissemination. Many separate markets have developed. They are
diversified into various age ranges, lifestyles, taste and pocket books. Various designers and
manufacturers labels appeal to various groups at different price points. Increasing diversity
means that many different styles can be accepted at the same time.
4.5 Fashion Categories
Fashion can be categorized in many types on basis of its style and demands from the customers.
Following are the categories of fashion:
Haute (High Fashion): This category includes one of a kind; the custom made and designers
collection. It is generally referred to French fashion and in France it is a protected name that
can only be used by firms that meet defined standards. It is a very new style accepted by people
who want to adopt the newest fashion. These are priced exorbitantly. Their intricate designs and
costly workmanship keep the high fashion out of reach of normal people. Haute couture is
making for specific customer and is usually made with high quality fabric. Colors used and the
texture for haute are unusual and rare. Silhouettes used here are layered, fitted to suit, and
depending on very specific individual taste.
Elegant: This style includes expensive designers reproduction, but should not be misunderstood
as Haute or high fashion. Colors used here are muted solid colors (gray, black and white).
Textures are fine fabrics, usually expensive materials. Silhouette are mostly uncomplicated and
well fitted (Chanel type). The effects of Elegant style are very refined, status and executive
looking.
Dramatic (Theatrical): This style creates a glamorous and glitzy impact. Colors used here are
strong, vivid and contrasting (black is a favorite color). Textures are rare and trendy. Silhouettes
are severe, sharp and usually asymmetrical, bold and often overwhelmingly fitted with open slits.
An effect of this style is confident and catchy.
Classic: This style includes town and country or the emphasis of business and corporate look.
Colors used in Classic are Beige, Navy, Red, Blue and Black. Textures are quite durable and
made up of natural fibers. Silhouettes are simple and uses of traditional trims are common.
Effects of this style are typical leader, practical and conservative.
Conservative (Feminine/Demure): This category includes traditional old fashioned, but should
not be misunderstood as classic because of its girlish features. Colors used here are Pastel, soft
blends and muted rainbows. Textures are light, flowing, and lace; usually old fashioned small
prints. Silhouettes are simple flows, rounded curves and semi fitted. It creates an effect of gentle,
soft, charming, innocent and very feminine.
Western (Country): This style is just the opposite of conservative. Clothes are reduced from the
feminine emphasis. Colors used here are mostly earth tones, and textures are natural fibers, thick
and old fashioned such as basic denim. Silhouettes are kept simple, easy and comfortable. Due to
fabric and color, the effect of this style is tough and strong.
Casual: These are set of garments, which are informal. This category includes denim. Color is
not given much importance so any color is used (bright, pastels, earth tones). Textures used are
mostly popular ones like natural, blend or synthetic fibers. Silhouettes are unstructured, simple
and easy. Thus, they create an effect of easy going, athletic, unpretentious and simple.
Grunge: This category garments were made popular during the early 90s. They create an
emphasis of younger generation, exaggerated constructions, separated and coordinate. Color and
Texture do not have much importance. Thus the effects of this style are youthful, confident but
sometimes impractical. Most designs die quickly.
4.6 Clothing Categories
Variety in dress has resulted from manufacturers responses to changes in our habits and roles
and the increase in consumer purchasing power. Clothing is now available for all occasions and
lifestyles. Manufacturers specialize in clothing type, age of target customer, price range, and
often gender. Retailers have separate departments for each category, price range, and size range.
In our value-conscious marketplace, consumers seek multipurpose, multi-use clothing. They look
for apparel that is wearable in variety of setting: office, social activities, gym, home, or vacation.
As a result, a breakdown of categories has occurred: gym wear has become street wear and so
on. Following are some of the clothing categories;
Womens Wear
Mens Wear
Womens Wear: Many types of womens apparel include dresses, social apparel, suits
outerwear, sports wear, active wear, and lingerie. A special category includes bridal gowns and
maternity clothes, and a huge array of accessories.
Dresses: These are single garments or two pieces on the same hanger priced as one unit. Styles
range from tailored to simple; business to casual wears. Dresses are easy to wear.
Social Apparel: It includes special occasion attire such as long and short cocktail dresses, bridal
dress or evening gowns.
Suits: Suits are jacket and skirts/pants sold together as a unit. Suits range from casual to
tailored. There is a trend towards casual dressing at the office.
Outerwear: This includes coats, capes and jackets with primarily protective functions.
Outerwear can be divided into four categories; traditional wool and wool blends, in performance
fabrics like micro fibers, leathers, and furs.
Sports wear: It is any combination of tops and bottoms, such as jackets, skirts, pants, shorts,
blouses, and shirts that are priced separately so that the customers can combine them as desired.
Active wear: It is one of the hottest categories of apparel today, fueled by the popularity of
sports. Active wear is subcategorized into two segments: fitness wear, worn for exercise and
sports apparel, worn to play sports. Both have become popular as street wear. Active wear
includes leggings, T shirts, track pants and jackets.
Swim wear: This includes one-piece suits, bikinis and cover-ups.
Lingerie: It includes innerwear, body wear, sleep wear, and lounge wear, etc.
Mens wear
Mens clothing, too, has changed as a result of changes in their interest and more casual
lifestyles. Traditionally, men learned to look for quality, and durability. Their wardrobes,
formerly limited to suits, slacks, and sports shirts, have expanded along with their activities and
increased clothing choice have made them more fashion conscious.
The electronics and the marketing fields have paved the way towards casual dress at office.
Many companies have instituted casual Friday and some have found it to be so popular that
they made it an everyday option. Due to the easing corporate dress restrictions the mens wear
industry is in a state of growth. Mens suit sales have decreased while sports wear is enjoying
tremendous growth. Casual looks are also more confusing for the consumers. Men may wonder
how to present themselves as successful professional in casual wear. Categories in mens wear
include the following:
Tailored: Tailored clothing includes suits, textured, overcoats, topcoats, sport coat and separate
trousers for business and evening wear. Tailored clothing requires lengthy, time consuming,
costly production.
Furnishings: These include dress suits, neckwear, underwear, robes, pajamas, shoes and boots.
Sportswear: Comprises of short jackets, knit or woven related separates, sweaters and casual
trousers that fill the demand for more leisure and casual wear.
Active sportswear: This includes all garments needed for sports as exercise such as
windcheaters, sky-jackets, jogging suits and tennis shorts.
Work clothes: Work clothes required by laborer, such as overall work shirts and pants have
become popular for leisurewear.
Childrens wear
The childrens wear business is very complicated because each size range is a separate market.
Childrens wear is also highly competitive because the consumer is extremely value conscious.
Parents do not want to spend much money on clothes of their children who will quickly outgrow.
Childrens wear manufacturers often produce both dresses and sportswear to protect their
business from shifts in fashion preferences. Some men and womens wear companies such as
Polo and Espirit also produce childrens wear. Some have tried and found it as difficult business.
It is very difficult to categorize childrens wear. Categories change within each size and price
range. Also boundaries between categories are becoming increasingly blurred.
Girls Dresses: These are available in all styles and price ranges. Holiday and spring are the
best seasons for special occasion dresses. Some girls dresses such as jumpers, jackets and skirts
are considered as tailored clothing.
Boys Traditional clothing: This group includes blazers, other dresses jackets, suits, dress pants
and dress shorts.
Sportswear: Comprises T-shirts, jeans pants, short overalls, jumpsuits, leggings, girls skirts,
boys shirts, sweat shirts, sweater pants and sweat suits in knits and woven, particularly denim
and fleece.
Swimwear: Groups swimwear and beach cover ups
Outerwear: Includes dress coats, all weather coats, raincoats, sky jackets, windcheaters, and
snowsuits.
Sleepwear: Includes blanket sleepers, pajamas, nightgowns, nightshirts, and robes. A major
issue in this category is the consumer product safety requirements.
4.7 Summary
The response of consumers to fashion and its adoption is of great importance for the success of
the design. The people who look for new design and wear it before it becomes acceptable are
called fashion leaders who can be classified as Fashion innovators and Fashion motivators.
Majority of the people adopt a new fashion after they are sure of the fashion trends and they are
known as fashion followers.
The fashion categories are the response of the manufacturers and the retailers to specialize
clothing type by age groups, price and gender. There are various sub categories for each
category.
There are three fashion adoption theories as Trickle down theory, Trickle up theory and Trickle
across theory.
The basic means of achieving this is to show major differences from the styles produced for the
same season the previous year. These can be, for example, changes in,
Length from the mini to the maxi
Silhouette from sacks to closely fitting
Exposure from more to less
Colour anything but that which was fashionable a year ago
Cloth texture from rough to smooth
Cloth design from plain to patterned etc.
The name of the game is change and the objectives are to make the fashion conscious public feel
that last years clothes are definitely passes. At one time, this manipulation only applied to
womens clothes, but today everybody is in the fashion scene whether it is with the imprint on a
childs T-shirt or the width of a mans trouser leg.
The designer has a key role in a clothing company and is responsible for the implementation of a
design policy, which takes into account the companys resources, customers and marketing
objectives. Due to the nature of the clothing industry, the designer must accurately project these
objectives at least one season ahead and produce garments which incorporate the total aims of
the company.
Factors that Affect the Clothing Choices of Women in New Era By : Mehreen Ijaz
Introduction
It is always necessary to determine and explain the factors that greatly affect our
clothing behavior. Following are some important factors that greatly affect the clothing
behavior of women in all over the world. This article is dividing into five sub headings
that describe the detail of particular factor.
Technological Factors
This modern age is also considered as "technological era", because in this age, even a
child is equipped himself / herself with the latest information, so is the minds of them.
It can be easily said that the latest technology captures the attention of modern day
women in choosing the styles, designs and cuts that suits her personality. Women are
used to search for the latest fashion from internet rather than wasting their own time in
designing and choosing a new style. Moreover internet also facilitates in finding a
location for the particular store or a designer's outlet. The easy provision of internet to
the common man helps to be in touch with latest happenings in the fashion world. There
are many more web sites that give the useful information regarding the upcoming
trends.
Secondly in every big city, fashion houses are opened for public where they can find
many types of designer wear under one roof. So, it helps us to select the best suited
costume for ourselves in a very short period of time.
Technological advancements have also changed the mind sets of people around the
world by giving them a multiplicity in clothing items. With the advent of many latest
machinery, people can have the opportunity of having cost effective, quick, ready to
wear, easy to care and easy to handle garments.
Branding and marketing also brought great changes in the field of textiles and clothing.
There are many new ways of introducing a new product to the customer that
immediately captures the attention of the customer.
Psychological Factors
Clothing is the most important feature of our lives. When we talk about clothing choices,
it summarizes in the statement which says 'There is too much sensation, too much
temptation.' Psychological factors greatly affect the clothing choices of women. When we
buy any article of clothing, we consciously or unconsciously think about its relationship
with our personality type. If anybody is in a happy mood, she / he can easily go with the
bright and sharp colors where as light and dull colors are usually used in the state of
depression, sadness and gloominess. For example red color is always associated with the
feelings of love and happiness and yellow or orange shades relate with the sun, feeling of
warmness and anger.
Texture of material is also relevant to the psychology of our minds. For example some
people prefer to buy a comfortable dress if no matters it is out of fashion, where as
especially teenagers are more interested in wearing out something trendy no matters if
it creates uneasiness for them. Moreover it is also said that when we wear harsh, rough
and tough stuff, we are more apt to behave in the same manner as discourteous, ruthless
and rude with others. Same is the case, when we wear light and soft materials; it helps
us to behave in cool, blissful, cheerful and happy mood.
Social Factors
In primitive and even in present societies, there is not even a single sphere of our lives
other than in choosing our clothing that greatly depicts our societal values and ethics.
Man is a social animal. Group acceptance has a crucial role in acceptance of clothing.
Everyone wants to be a member of the society in which he lives. But if he deviates from
the set rules and standards of his society, he will be no more a part of his society.
Busy lifestyles offers more relaxed attitude towards the selection of clothing. As now-adays more women are working outside the home and for this they need comfortable,
easy to wash, east to care yet trendy clothing styles.
If we are very social then definitely we need to expand our wardrobes according to the
latest trends and styles. And vice versa if someone is not very social, he / she definitely
needs less number of clothes.
There are different levels of modesty in different cultures and religions. For example any
article of clothing that is acceptable in one religion may not be acceptable in another
religion, so while choosing an outfit, one should know his / her limits and boundaries
set their religion.
But it is also observed that now a day's mild natured norms are changed in societies like
in olden days people considered black color as a symbol of mourning where as today it is
worn as a formal color in functions like weddings or parties. Because in this age people
used to give of the olden concepts and adapt themselves with the new ones. Moreover in
previous decades women used to wear red color on their wedding day as to follow their
custom but now a days they are accepting other colors like olive green, turquoise, baby
pink, white, silver, gray, purple, yellow and many other combinations.
Economic Factors
Economy is always the most important factor in bringing change in one's lifestyle.
Families with fewer number of members have the opportunity to spend a lot of money
on their clothing where as it becomes difficult for the large families. As todays woman
has stepped into the professional living, she is ready to adapt herself with the modern
world. She loves to wear attractive yet comfortable clothing for herself and at the same
time she wants to maintain her individuality.
Money is considered as the force to drive something a step forward. Fashion is changing
very rapidly these days because low and middle income classes are adapting new cuts
and colors very rapidly so the fashion innovators are ready to bring an abrupt change in
fashion to maintain the difference between fashion leaders and fashion followers.
Aesthetic Factors
Aesthetics is the last but not the least factor in deciding what to buy and what to wear?
Clothing can be considered as a complete set of expressions that reflects the whole
personality. Almost every woman has an inner born desire to look beautiful, stunning
and gorgeous. She is always ready to experiment with different looks, cuts, designs,
colors and textures to maintain her individuality.
When anyone feels to become prominent in a gathering, he / she always look for some
unique and different cuts and styles in their dressings. And those people who do not
want to be a focal point in some gathering, they remain simple, cool and calm in
choosing their dresses. This is why even in ancient Rome and Egypt pharaohs are
depicted in purple color to show their royalty, superiority and individualistic touch.