Canadian Jeweller Magazine

J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 0
Est.
$
25
1879
canadian jeweller
magazine
for the business of retailing jewellery
Win A $1000 First Class

Collection Ontario’s first
Of Your Choice certified diamonds
See Inside
Bounce Back
How Basel 2010 officially
ushered in a new era
A Timely Trend
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25
The
The fashion watch is
more than an accessory
Appraisal: Updated
Artisans
What’s changed and
what hasn’t
Lights, Camera,
Jewellery
Using CAD as a Marcella Cusano from
marketing tool Montecristo Jewellers in Vancouver
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
001.CJ_Cover.indd 1 5/10/10 1:42:18 PM

Siffari Ad layout 1/8/10 2:35 PM Page 1
Sterling Silver and Gold
Canada’s leading ring and

jewellery manufacturer
Siffari Jewellery Co. Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2
Tel: 416-441-1010 Fax: 416-441-6188 1-800-387-0111
www.siffari.com email: contact@siffari.com
For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 97
cjJuneJuly10_Siffari_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:12:57 PM

New from Italy and Now in Canada
• Original Italian Design

• 19 Colours
• 3 Sizes. High Silicone Rubber
• Ultra Light (10 Grams)
• 3 Atm Water Resistance
Contact Official Canadian Distributor at (416) 409 3855 or email to info@plastichic.ca
cjJuneJuly10_CoolStuff_PlastiChic_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:13:49 PM

cjJuneJuly10_Stuller_dpsAd.indd 3 5/5/10 3:14:59 PM
And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.
You’re there for your customers, and at every
point along the way, Stuller is there for you. We offer
a vast selection of bridal jewellery in all the
latest styles, as well as unique selling tools like our
comprehensive prototype merchandising solutions

and wedding band engraving. For a wealth of
ideas and solutions, call 800-877-7777, or visit us

at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.
b r i da l f i n i she d mounti ngs di amonds gemstones f i ndi ngs metals tools packagi ng
stulle r.com 800-877-7777
cjJuneJuly10_Stuller_dpsAd.indd 4 5/5/10 3:14:59 PM

“Learning is a treasure which
accompanies its owner everywhere.”
-An c i e n t ch i n e se Pro v e rb
Providing Jewellers
With the Foundation
to Succeed
For more than 23 years, Jewellers vigilance
canada has served as a source of support and
education for jewellers throughout canada.
A non-profit overseen by leading industry

professionals, we’ve made it our mission
to provide our members with the education
needed to prevent crime, serve as a key
resource for government agencies, and
set industry standards that aid in building
consumer confidence in the jewellery
products they buy.
Sign up now at
www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca
or call 1-800-636-9536
Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the canadian jewellery industry.
crime Prevention • resource Protection • sAFety AwAreness
cjJuneJuly10_JVC_Ad.indd 1 1
JEWVIG May Ad 042710F.indd 5/5/10 3:17:13
4/27/10 3:44:16 PM
PM
5/5/10 3:18:01 PM
cjJuneJuly10_Hammer_Ad.indd 1
Established 1879 june/july 2010 • vol. 131, no. 4
Myles Mindham Guest Editor
Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Carol Besler Editor
Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com
Danielle Ng-See-Quan Editorial Assistant | danielle@rivegauchemedia.com
Septembre Anderson Editorial Intern | intern@rivegauchemedia.com
Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com
Leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com
Jordan Martinez Production Manager | jordan@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com
Daniel Hare Administration Coordinator | dan@rivegauchemedia.com
CONTRIBUTORS Stephanie Bonotto, Sarah B. Hood, Katie Huisman,

Amber Klaehn, Jesse Kaufman, Greg Merrall,
Duncan Parker, Bonnie Siegler.
sales
Lucy Holden Associate publisher
tel .
(416) 203-7900 ext. 6117
email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales

telw. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122
email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com
CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS

Garth Atkinson 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101
Pickering, Ontario, L1V 1A1
toll free 1-877-547-2246
email cj@publicationpartners.com
Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8
tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392
Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2
tel . (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223
toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117
Subscription Rates
Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide is-
sues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50
per subscription per year (Canada only).
Change of Address
email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735
or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1
Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all
representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not
the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication
may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration
under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller
and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such
material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.
Official magazine of JVC
8 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 5/10/10 1:43:25 PM

5/5/10 3:19:20 PM
cjJuneJuly10_JSN_Ad.indd 1
table of
Contents
June/July
Features
38 Mining Feature: First Class
An exclusive look at the first certified Ontario diamonds.
68
40 Appraisal: Updated
Why the details matter in a trade that constantly evolves.
46
The Artisans
Marcella Cusano helms a family business rooted in
tradition and innovation.
54
Gemmology for the Masses
A lesson in coatings and surface treatments.
58 Bounce Back
Basel 2010 shows signs that the worst may actually be over.
66 Service Made Simple

How software and small businesses work together.
68 A Timely Trend
Fashion watches are bigger, bolder and hotter than ever.
77
Lights, Camera, Action, Jewellery
CAD/CAM is more than just about design: it’s sales
and marketing too.
46
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 5/10/10 1:53:04 PM

Moments
MAKE A FLEETING MOMENT L AST FOREVER. THRE AD
YOUR CHOICE OF OUR BE AUTIFUL HANDFINISHED
CHARMS ONTO A BR ACELET OF 14K GOLD, STERLING
SILVER, LEATHER OR FABRIC. WHAT’S YOUR MOMENT? BE
INSPIRED AT PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM OR PANDORA.NET.
U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • • © • All rights reserved For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 97
CJ_Pandora_June2010.indd 1 4/15/2010 11:46:58 AM
cjJunJul10_Crosby_Pandora_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:20:14 PM

table of
Contents
June/July
86
Departments
14 Letter from the Guest Editor
16 Contributors
18 Product Showcase
86 Star Watch
28 Who’s News
88 What’s On
Bfly welcomes new VP; Chopard joins RJC.
30
For The Record 89 Showcase
TAG Heuer unveils women’s timepieces; Hermès
launches first fine jewellery collection; rare pink diamond
sets world auction record. 94 Marketplace
34 Stock Index 97 Fax Back
36 Mining News 98 Last Word

All the happenings in the mining sector.
52 JVC Feature
A look at how education plays a key role in the industry.
74 Company Profile
Butterfly Gem Collection.
82
Designer Profile
Dandi Maestre.
82
010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 5/10/10 1:47:16 PM

cjJuneJuly10_CrownRing_Ad1.indd 1 5/5/10 3:20:52 PM

letterfromguesteditor
Family Matters
On a recent buying trip to Basel, I spent some time with
Marcella and Pasquale Cusano of Montecristo Jewellers
in Vancouver. It was inspiring to compare notes with two
colleagues who are as committed as I am to the fi ne arts of
jewellery making and luxury retailing.
I have since visited the Montecristo flagship store where
I had the privilege of seeing, fi rst-hand, the work they are
creating in their studios. The creativity and diversity of their
jewellery reflects the family’s passion for this art.
Marcella, the “Countess of Montecristo,” is sure to have
a lasting effect on this 35-year-old business. Her passion
for the industry, her delight in education and, most
importantly, her commitment to honesty and integrity, are
sure to sustain and grow this family success story.
As many of Canada’s independant retailers begin to
recover from the recession of 2009, it is wonderful to take a
moment to reflect on why we are in this business. Marcella’s
story will remind you.
Myles Mindham
Myles Mindham
Guest Editor
Owner, Mindham Fine Jewellery
14 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
014.CJ_GuestEditor.indd 14 5/10/10 1:49:52 PM

cjJuneJuly10_CrownRing_Ad2.indd 1 5/5/10 4:13:05 PM

contributorsandletters
Amber Klaehn Jesse Kaufman Sarah B. Hood Katie Huisman

Amber began her career in the Jesse hails from nearby Rochester, Sarah B. Hood has published Tasked with capturing Montecristo
jewellery industry in Canada New York. After spending 15 hundreds of magazine articles in Jewellers in Vancouver, Katie is a
with a chain of retail jewellery years on the bench, he found dozens of periodicals, including photographer about town. She
stores where she was involved in that the future of jewellery The Globe and Mail, the National studied at the Alberta College of
every aspect of the business. She design and manufacturing was Post, Enroute and Canadian Art and Design, graduating and
was promoted to manager of the in CAD/CAM, so he transitioned Living, and has been writing for winning the Governor General
wholesale division, responsible for from traditional methods to CJ for over four years. She has Award in 2004. Katie spent
sourcing and importing designer the software approach about 10 been shortlisted for both the two years living and working
collections and distributing years ago. He’s been a trailblazer National Magazine Awards and overseas, assisting and receiving
them across Canada. Followed in the field, and now provides the Kenneth R. Wilson Awards for mentorship from photographers
by a promotion to marketing CAD/CAM services and CNC business journalism. She lectures like Adam Custins and Robert
director, she was responsible prototyping for other designers, on writing, arts and culture in Kent. She is now a commercial
for designing creative materials retail jewelers and manufacturers, the Centre for Arts and Design at photographer and visual artist
and implementing marketing aside from producing his own Toronto’s George Brown College. based in Vancouver and,
strategies. As a recognized designs privately. Additionally, For this issue, Sarah uncovered although she is busy shooting
authority on technology’s he’s a systems consultant for the booming fashion watch trend advertising and editorial work,
application for the jewellery ModelMaster and CAD trainer (page 68), noting that it’s less she exhibits her fine art work
industry, Amber looks at short for jewellery artisans. Check out about being an accessory and regularly and has shown publicly
Letter to the Editor

messaging for the small business his take on CAD as a marketing more a necessity and key to life- across Canada. Check out her
in this month’s issue on page 66. tool on page 77. long style. photographs on page 46.
2010
L / M AY
APRI
Dear Canadian Jeweller

$ 25
Est.
1879 I just finished reading the cover story on Sarah Hamel of Made You Look from the
April/May issue. All I can say is Wow. What an amazing new concept for the jewellery
o
jewe ller
cana dianazine
mag
ess
ng jewell
ery
of retaili
Ret
t
ail Ren
rating is
more
Redeco a paint coat
industry. Her ideas are so fresh and novel that I read every word with great excitement.
than jus
the busin
Logg dia can ed On Sarah is not only a true entrepreneur, but also a trailblazer with a vision. I’m quite sure
cial me
How so mers to you
drive cu
sto
we will hear more about Sarah in the years to come.
Look
Again
ity in
Public ing Times
Chang t your Judy Richards, President
| $25
ge
Tips to
M4W 3B8
ticed
store no
Davidson’s Jewellers
NTO ON,
ture
ine Cou rket
TORO
Can t jewelle
ry ma from
1106,
Hamel
Ottawa, Ontario
The pe he Sarah
ger nic ronto
SUITE
is no lon ok in To
You Lo
ET WEST
Made
Bes t
al at its ll
R STRE
Brid ory wi
60 BLOO
s categ
Why thi growing
000 |
ep
only ke
40678
TS
& EVEN
: ST MARKET NE
NS MAIL
ENDS
30 PM
US
12:54:
WS, TR
PLL TH
4/6/10
PUBLICATIO
E LATE
AL
1
er.indd
001.CJ_Cov
016.CJ_Contributors.indd 16 5/7/10 12:05:22 PM

Chamilia_NE_CanJewel_JuneJuly_Trade_Ad_4pdf.indd 1 4/19/10 12:33 PM
cjJuneJuly10_EagleMedia_Chailia_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:22:07 PM

productshowcase
Personal Jewelry Insurance

Order your free Jeweller Guide for a full explanation of the
Personal Jewelry Insurance program from Jewelers Mutual
Trollbeads Jewellery Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively
Trollbeads jewellery has been charming women around the world in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and
for more than 30 years. Unique, artisan quality beads that draw the United States. (The Personal Jewelry Insurance program is
inspiration from nature, love, and life make it easy to create a not available in Quebec.) Also, be sure to order a supply of our
custom, heirloom quality bracelet or necklace that tells your newly designed consumer handout. Exclusively endorsed by the
customer’s personal story. For more information, visit www. Canadian Jewellers Association, the American Gem Society, and
TrollbeadsCanada.com or call 905-326-5981. For more information, the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America. For more
write 145 on the Free Info Card on page 81. information, write 146 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
Individual Expression
The Future of Jewellery Customization For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry
Simplify custom design with CounterSketch Studio. Powered by leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate
sales-floor friendly CAD technology from Gemvision and built symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic
on the premiere fulfillment services of Stuller, this program is a eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an
turnkey custom design system that fits right on your counter. All Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced
designs shown were created from a single item in the CounterSketch is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools
style library For more information, write 147 on the Free Info Card on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring
on page 81. leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more
information, write 148 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
018-026.CJ_Product.indd 18 5/10/10 1:51:12 PM

productshowcase
Personal Jewelry Insurance

Order your free Jeweller Guide for a full explanation of the
Personal Jewelry Insurance program from Jewelers Mutual
Trollbeads Jewellery Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively
Trollbeads jewellery has been charming women around the world in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and
for more than 30 years. Unique, artisan quality beads that draw the United States. (The Personal Jewelry Insurance program is
inspiration from nature, love, and life make it easy to create a not available in Quebec.) Also, be sure to order a supply of our
custom, heirloom quality bracelet or necklace that tells your newly designed consumer handout. Exclusively endorsed by the
customer’s personal story. For more information, visit www. Canadian Jewellers Association, the American Gem Society, and
TrollbeadsCanada.com or call 905-326-5981. For more information, the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America. For more
write 145 on the Free Info Card on page 97. information, write 146 on the Free Info Card on page 97.
Individual Expression
The Future of Jewellery Customization For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry
Simplify custom design with CounterSketch Studio. Powered by leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate
sales-floor friendly CAD technology from Gemvision and built symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic
on the premiere fulfillment services of Stuller, this program is a eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an
turnkey custom design system that fits right on your counter. All Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced
designs shown were created from a single item in the CounterSketch is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools
style library For more information, write 147 on the Free Info Card on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring
on page 97. leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more
information, write 148 on the Free Info Card on page 97.
018-026.CJ_Product.indd 18 5/11/10 9:35:54 AM

The heart & soul
of wedding bands
www.atlanticengraving.com
1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4
Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca
For
Fordetails,
details,write
write#110
#112on
onFree
FreeInfo
InfoPage,
Page,page
page81
97
cjJuneJuly_AtlanticEngraving_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:50:38 PM

productshowcase
CHIAMPESAN The Peter Heim Collection

This company has a concept that summarizes almost 50 Years of The Peter Heim collection is the result of innovation in design, precision
Values that Chiampeasan has never lost sight of. Beauty, elegance technology and superior hand-craftsmanship. With the promise of
and Style are the corner stone for all its activities.To create jewels ultimate comfort engineered to put minimal pressure around the
that can be worn in any occasion. All 18 KT and real stones. For finger, this interaction of uncompromising passion for quality and
more information, write 149 on the Free Info Card on page 97. perfection customise the finest gold, platinum and palladium alloys
into stunning rings of beauty and understated elegance. A marriage-
of-metals tailored to suit unique refinements and last forever! For
more information, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 97.
GIA Reports and Grading Systems

GIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in Nova Product Profile May
communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading Throughout history the combination of black and white have
System and the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report been seen in many mediums. Whether on television, films, or
from GIA provides an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond photography, black and white bring with it an artistic, nostalgic
based upon the “4Cs” of diamond grading — colour, cut, clarity, effect. Nova Diamonds incorporates black and white diamonds in
and carat weight. The report also includes a plotting diagram, their timeless new collection. Contact Nova at (416) 868-6682 for
which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity characteristics, more information. The bangle shown includes 29.59 ct of black and
such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with white diamonds and over 135 ct of solid onyx set in 18K white gold.
any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s The ring displayed features over 7 ct of diamonds also set in 18K
most impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more white gold. For more information, write 152 on the Free Info Card
information, write 151 on the Free Info Card on page 97. on page 97.

CGTA_F10Ad_CanJew 3/11/10 1:46 PM Page 1
Living & Giving

with FLAIR
Sunday, August 8 to
Thursday, August 12, 2010
International Centre • Toronto Congress Centre

F lair is the artistic Every day, the world over, thousands of creative
expression of elegance designers, artists, craftspeople and artisans introduce
wonderful new things of beauty and function; things that
and style in a natural add flair to Living and Giving – the very products that will
Owned and Operated by the Canadian Gift
and Tableware Association
and pleasing context. drive tomorrow’s retail buying trends.
As a retailer, how can you be sure you see everything new? By attending the Fall 2010 CGTA
www.cgta.org 1.800.611.6100 Gift Show, of course. It’s where you can browse, examine and buy the hottest new products
in every category; where you can see, touch, feel and evaluate real merchandise, up close
EXTENDED SHOW HOURS: and personal. Don’t miss this extraordinary opportunity to preview everything in tomorrow’s
Until 7pm Monday & Tuesday trends and fashions. (Your competitors won’t!)
cjJuneJuly10_MatrixCreative_CGTA_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:09:12 PM

productshowcase
Pacific Urns
Pacific Urns has, in a short time become the largest supplier of
quality Urn Jewellery with distributors in Canada, United Kingdom
and Australia. With the line continuously growing they have also
recently launched a complete Pet Line. Each Pacific Urns design is
available in all precious metals and with or without diamonds. To
see more styles please visit www.PacificUrns.com.
JSN Diamonds Sparkle
Each Jewellery Urn includes a Gold or Sterling Silver chain to match JSN is one of Canada’s leading jewellery manufacturers with an
your selection, a Cherry Wood accent or Burgundy display box, arsenal of five brands that range from entry-level product to a fully-
solid Sterling Silver scoop to assist in filling, cleaning cloth to certified premium Canadian diamond line. With offices in Canada,
keep your pendant looking its best, instructions on filling, sealing the United Kingdom and the United States, along with a plant in
and maintaining your pendant and an unconditional lifetime Bangkok, Thailand, JSN has achieved a high level of recognition
warranty on your Sterling Silver chain. For more information, on the international stage. For more information, write 154 on the
write 153 on the Free Info Card on page 97. Free Info Card on page 97.
Western Canadian Jewellery Expo

August 13-15, 2010
For over thirty years, the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo has
brought a diverse group of manufacturers and suppliers from
across Canada and the USA to jewellery retailers from the four
western Canadian provinces and the Northwest Territories.
Polar Gem These manufacturers and suppliers showcase the very best and
Polar Gem is the first Eco-friendly Canadian diamond collection latest trends, packaging, equipment and technology for the
featuring renewed gold, with an identifiable diamond source, jewellery industry.
guaranteed by a mine of origin certificate. The Polar Gem is the
perfect round brilliant diamond, cut to ideal proportions and In one of the best economic regions in North America, with the
symmetry, with perfectly aligned facets, creating a flame-like jewellery retail industry drawing on a population of 10.5 million,
quality reaching the highest level for a diamond polished, with one the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo is considered to be the best
of a kind phenomenon of sparkle and light “hearts and arrows”. For writing jewellery show in Canada. For more information, write
more information, write 155 on the Free Info Card on page 97. 156 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

CHRISTONY, INC.
LOW COST LEADER ™ Visit us at the

Upcoming shows:
World's Gold & Diamonds, Inc. JIS Miami:
Houston, TX Jan. 30 - Feb. 1, 2010
www.lowcostleader.com JA New York:
Feb. 28 - Mar. 2, 2010
TOLL FREE: 866-8-LOW-COST
JCK Las Vegas
cjJuneJuly10_WorldsGold_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:44:54 PM

productshowcase
The Butterfly Effect

Plastic is Chic... The theory behind the butterfly effect is that any good deed,
PlastiChic, the original Italian line of ultra stylish, silicone watches, however small, creates a ripple effect that can change the world.
has arrived in Canada! Plastichic is the hottest fashion craze in Supporting a cause we hold dear, being environmentally-friendly,
Europe with a cult following and an attractive price point that helping our fellow man, and encouraging our kids to achieve their
translates into high volume retail sales. The colourful, affordable, full potential are all simple things we can do to create a butterfly
watches are available in 19 of the season’s hottest colours and come effect. Butterflies carry rich symbolism of universal appeal which
in unique test tube packaging. PlastiChic provides retailers with eye symbolizes birth, change and transformation. Inspired by the
catching displays that drive impulse sales. For more information symbolism of the butterfly effect, the BFly® jewellery collection
please email info@plastichic.ca or call 416 409 3855. For more expresses our desire to make this a better world. For more
information, write 157 on the Free Info Card on page 97. information, write 158 on the Free Info Card on page 97.
Breanna collection:
Breanna represents the women who believes she is special as
she is. Determined, passionate about life, design and perfection,
Breanna is what every woman wants to be. She has found the love
LovePods of her life and now needs to choose The Ring. But how to find the
PANDORA introduces the new white gold LovePods collection. perfect ring in a crowded market place where everyone claims to
LovePods is a new range of fine jewellery made from 18K yellow have the perfect ring for you. That is why we designed the Breanna
or white gold, and is enhanced with carefully selected genuine Collection. A collection where every model is unique. Every future
gemstones. LovePods is a series of beautifully crafted rings, earrings, bride will find a ring that will fit her personality and taste. Come
bracelets, and necklaces; a collection that lets you combine, unfold, to the world of Breanna and join the women who enjoys the beauty
and bloom as you create an expression that is uniquely you. For and quality of this magnificent collection. For more information,
more information, write 159 on the Free Info Card on page 97. write 160 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

FENDI SELLERIA COLLECTION SERIES 8100 INTERCHANGEABLE STRAP SYSTEM IS A REGISTERED MODEL
cjJuneJuly10_Ottimo_Fendi_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:55:30 PM

OTTIMO CREATIONS INC. 1-800-363-0178 FENDI-WATCHES@OTTIMOCREATIONS.COM
productshowcase
Bulova Accutron Celebrates 50 Years

of Electronic Timekeeping
Since 1960, Bulova’s Accutron brand has defined the ultimate in
precision timekeeping. Today, the landmark tuning fork movement
and exhibition case of the renowned Accutron Spaceview 214
CHAMILIA. YOUR LIFE. YOUR STYLE.
have been meticulously recreated by Bulova for an exclusive 50th
Presenting the new necklace and earring collection from Chamilia,
Anniversary Limited Edition model. In stainless steel with curved
a leader of innovative design in the jewelry category. Personalize
sapphire crystal and alligator strap, each exquisitely hand crafted
these necklaces and earrings with combinations of Chamilia’s
watch is numbered and comes in a specially designed display case
500+ beads. Add the collection to your Chamilia bead line today.
accompanied by an official plaque attesting to its position in a
Contact Chamilia at: 1-800-495-0977 or customerrelations@
controlled, global limited edition run of 1,000. Available Fall 2010
chamilia.com. For more information, write 162 on the Free Info
at a suggested retail price of $4,000. For more information, write
Card on page 97.
161 on the Free Info Card on page 97.
Siffari’s Signature Collection “Introducing The New Renault F1 Team Collection.” The four-
A tradition in excellence continues with Siffari’s Signature model Renault F1 Team pilot collection celebrates the origins
Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has combined of the first oversized watches. The Renault F1 Team CEO Tech
unique design and detailed craftsmanship in this stunning collection also with four models offers a more luxurious edge to
collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone gold ring with 0.21 cts TW Steel’s partnership embracing the team’s world championship
of natural yellow diamonds and .61 cts of white diamonds. For winning pedigree. For more information, write 164 on the Free
more information, write 163 on the Free Info Card on page 97. Info Card on page 97.

The Trendy Group
905-326-5981 TrollbeadsCanada.com
sales@thetrendygroup.com
CJTrollbeadsAdFullPage.indd 1 04/05/10 11:36 AM

cjJuneJuly10_TrendyGroup_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:58:57 PM
who’snews
Find out who is JdJ Jewellery Debuts Exclusive

Collection for David Dixon
making headlines in Fashion designer David Dixon’s show is always
one of the most highly anticipated at LG Fashion
the jewellery industry. Week, held in April for the fall collections.
Guests at his show got an extra-hit of glamour
with custom accessories created for the first time
by John de Jong. “I was honoured when David
TAG Heuer Chairman Returns approached me to collaborate on a select series
to the Races of pieces to complement his 15-year anniversary
Once a timekeeper of the Twelve Hours of Fall/Winter 2010 Collection,” says de Jong. Pieces
Sebring Race (where he was inspired to create include stackable bracelets in faceted onyx beads,
the Carrera collection five decades ago), chokers with a mix of stone shapes – some long,
TAG Heuer honorary chairman Jack Heuer some short – and also a bib choker and large drop
returned to his racing roots at the Shanghai earrings with a mix of clear topaz, opaque onyx
Grand Prix in April, where he watched TAG Craig Race.
and quartz. This marks the 15th anniversary of
Heuer ambassadors Jenson Button and business for both David Dixon and JdJ Jewellery.
Lewis Hamilton take first and second place, Stuller Enlists Industry Veteran
respectively. It was a nostalgic return to the as Bridal VP Chopard and HRD Antwerp Join RJC
pits and paddocks of the races, where he spent Stuller has hired Craig Race as its new bridal The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)
the day inside the McLaren pit, wearing a jewellery vice president as of March 15. “With recently announced that Chopard, one of the
headset linked to engineers and technicians: Craig’s combined 35 years of retail and jewelry world’s leading watch and jewellery brands, and
“My best race ever!” exclaimed the 78-year-old manufacturing experience, I am excited to have HRD Antwerp, the well-recognized diamond
watch aficionado. “It sent me decades back and him join our team,” says Harold Dupuy, Chief laboratory have become RJC members. All
I could feel my beginner’s spirit during the Merchandising Officer. “I am confident that commercial members of the RJC are required to
whole weekend. I was like a kid in a chocolate his professional merchandising experience, be audited by accredited, third party auditors to
factory. I have lived Formula 1 backstage for especially in bridal jewellery, will serve us well, verify their conformance with the RJC’s Code
several years but this world has evolved so fast and I look forward to his future contributions.” of Practices to become certified. “I am delighted
– it was like living a totally new experience.” Responsibilities will include providing vision, that Chopard and HRD Antwerp have become
direction and product leadership for Stuller’s members of the Responsible Jewellery Council,”
bridal product segment, including all activities noted Michael Rae, the RJC’s chief executive
associated with bridal product development, officer. “Chopard’s membership of the RJC will
merchandising and marketing. reinforce the Council’s mission of responsible
business practices amongst large and small
BFly Introduces New International industry players,” says Rae. [CJ]
Vice President of Sales
Butterfly Gems has announced that Martial
Dubé will oversee BFly as Vice President of
Sales. He will be responsible for managing
the sales team throughout North America as
well as contributing to international business
development. Mr. Dubé has over 30 years
experience in the industry, including a position
as executive sales manager with the company.
“We are delighted to have Martial on our
executive board to help us increase our business
sales division with our new partnership with
the worldwide leader manufacturer of Ear
Piercing Systems Inverness,” said company
president Stephane Lavoie. Inverness is
currently serving 46 countries with their ear
piercing products in association with the new
Jack Heuer.
BFly concept that launched this spring.
Martial Dubé.
028.CJ_WhosNews_re.indd 28 5/7/10 9:43:22 AM

cjJuneJuly10_ButterflyGems_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:00:10 PM

fortherecord
news | trends | events

TimeRevolution.com Named will develop and distribute the exclusive TAG Heuer Introduces
Authorized Service Centre collection BFLY by Inverness, 14k and 24k New Chronograph Watch
for Raymond Weil Watches gold plated earring piercings in birthstone TAG Heuer has announced the introduction
TimeRevolution.com, one of the oldest watch colours for girls. of the Carrera Calibre 1887 Chronograph,
servicing companies in Canada, is now the the first TAG Heuer watch to be powered by
authorized Canadian service centre for Imagine Designs Offers Retailers the luxury watchmaker’s new Calibre 1887
Raymond Weil watches. TimeRevolution.com Free Apple iPad chronograph movement. The mechanism
is also the authorized service centre for Gucci, Bridal jewellery manufacturer Imagine is comprised of 320 components, which are
Phillip Stein, TechnoMarine and ToyWatch. Designs will be handing out free 16-gigabyte viewable through the Carrera’s scratch-
iPads in Las Vegas to retailers who carry resistant sapphire caseback, and includes
Birks Unveils First 100 Imagine Bride, its new bridal collection. The the groundbreaking TAG Heuer oscillating
“Made in Ontario” Diamonds company will be making its Imagine Bridal pinion. The dial of the timepiece, which
Birks unveiled the first 100 Made in Ontario collection available to retailers strictly on an is available in black or silver, hosts three
diamonds in April. The diamonds are interactive, web-based ordering system, with counters – chronograph hour, permanent
from the De Beers Canada Victor Mine, the goal to revolutionize the way retailers running second and a chronograph minute
Ontario’s first diamond mine, and polished at purchase, reorder and special-order their – stainless steel bracelet or black alligator
Crossworks Manufacturing Ltd. in Sudbury. bridal program jewellery. strap.
To further commemorate the milestone,
Birks allowed clients to design made-to-order NES Announces Debut of Breguet Reveals New Tradition
diamond jewellery. Earth-Friendly Jewellery Collection 7047 Watch
in Sears Watchmaker Breguet has unveiled the
Butterfly Gem Collection Awarded The New York-based NES Green, the new platinum Tradition 7047 model with
$115,000 In Government Funding environmental division of the sterling silver a balance-spring escapement in silicon, a
Butterfly Gem Collection Inc. has been jewellery company NES Group, debuted material that is much lighter than metal
awarded $115,000 in repayable funding from its Silver Earth jewellery collection. The and impervious to magnetic fields. This
the Government of Canada’s Business and collection went on sale on April 22, the 40th new timepiece also incudes tourbillon and
Regional Growth program. It will allow the anniversary of Earth Day, and includes fusée and chain transmission – a major
company to create six new jobs and pursue earrings and pendants made from 100 per watchmaking accomplishment due to the
expansion in the North American and cent recycled silver and packaging materials. extremely complex construction of the
international markets. The company has also The collection, which is available in 775 Sears Breguet overcoil balance-spring – and offers
announced an agreement with Inverness stores throughout the U.S. and on Sears.com, a 50-hour power reserve. The mechanism is
Corp., a leading worldwide manufacturer and includes basic and classic designs with some cased in a 41mm platinum Calibre 569 case
distributor of earring piercings. Inverness pieces featuring recycled symbols. with a sapphire crystal fitted into the back.
Rare Red Diamond Fails to Sell

Birks Introduces New Designer Esty at Sotheby’s Auction
Birks has welcomed a new exclusive A rare red diamond went unsold at a
designer to its team – contemporary Sotheby’s auction in Australia. The diamond,
jewellery designer Esty Grossman. set in a platinum ring surrounded by
Born in Andalusia, raised in Montreal colourless diamonds and two blue diamonds
and with a home base in the French with an estimated value of between
Riviera, Esty is known for her US$654,906 and US$935,580, is from Rio
handcrafted fluid pieces that embrace Tinto’s Argyle Mine in Western Australia.
the designer’s love of nature and the Despite the rarity of the red diamond, bids
sea. Esty has designed seven exclusive for the piece failed to reach the minimum bid.
collections for Birks – Needlefish, However, Australia Broadcasting Company
Seaside, Seaside Pearls, Swirl, French has reported that quiet negotiations continue
Riviera, Fan Coral and Pommette. behind the scenes between the stone’s seller
and potential buyers.
030-033.CJ_FTR_re2.indd 30 5/7/10 11:35:37 AM

Celebrating a great partnership
Jewelers Mutual is proud to partner with the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) to enhance the services each organization provides to the
Canadian jewellery industry. Together, Jewelers Mutual and CJA will work to assure the health and vitality of the jewellery industry and develop
better products and services for you.
Canadian Jewellers Association is the voice of the Canadian jewellery Jewelers Mutual was founded by jewellers in 1913 and remains
industry, providing leadership in ethics, education and communication. the leading insurer solely dedicated to insuring jewellery and the
Here are some of the benefits you will enjoy by becoming a member: jewellery industry. Here are just some of the benefits you’ll receive
• Participate in consumer outreach branding program leading to by becoming a policyholder:
increased jewellery sales. • Customize your insurance policy whether you are a retailer,
• Receive promotional rates on education courses such as JETS manufacturer, wholesaler, designer, or appraiser.
(Jewellery Education Training System), including free access to • Get superior claims service – 99.9% of our policyholders rate
JM University, an online security training course offered through our claim service as good or excellent.
Jewelers Mutual.
• Gain free access to Jewelers Mutual’s library of security
• Receive extensive and evolving member benefit programs resulting training courses and materials.
in substantial cost savings.
• Depend on an insurance company that is financially sound
• Benefit from CJA advocacy with all levels of government and learn and has been rated A+ Superior for 23 years by A.M. Best
about new laws and regulations specific to our industry. Company.
Become a member today by visiting www.canadianjewellers.com Contact us today for a free quote.
and completing a membership application.
800-580-0942; www.canadianjewellers.com 800-558-6411 • www.JewelersMutual.ca
J E W E L E R S M U T U A L I S E X C L U S I V E LY E N D O R S E D B Y T H E C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R S A S S O C I A T I O N
cjJuneJuly10_JewellersMutual_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:01:06 PM

Bulova Unveils New Timekeeping options. The Carrera Calibre 5 is a steel Kong. The Vivid Pink, a rare 5-carat pink
Technology timepiece embellished with diamonds and a diamond, sold for US$10.7 million, the highest
York-based Bulova Corp. has revealed its white mother-of-pearl dial. price ever for any pink diamond at auction. At
latest timekeeping breakthrough – the US$2.1 million per carat, the highest price per
Precisionist Technology timepiece. According Kardashian Jewellery Line carat for any gemstone. The cushion-shaped
to Bulova, it is “the most accurate watch with to be Carried at Ylang 23 diamond, which was estimated to sell between
a continuously sweeping second hand” that Texas-based Ylang 23 Jewelry has announced $5 million to $7 million, was set in a ring by
is accurate to 10 seconds per year. Bulova it will be the first retailer to carry the new top international jeweller Graff.
has also added a third prong to the standard Kardashian jewellery collection for Virgins,
two-prong quartz crystal, which will result Saints and Angels. The collection, consisting Smithsonian, QVC Team Up
in eight times the vibration frequency of a of 15-to-20 pieces – is a collaborative to Launch Historically-Inspired
traditional quartz watch. The watches from effort between Kim, Kourtney and Khloe Jewellery Collection
the Precisionist line will be available in the Kardashian, who shot to stardom thanks The Smithsonian Institute and QVC have
fourth quarter incentive programs and will be to their VH1 Reality Show. The collection teamed up to offer a jewellery collection based
delivered in October. features pieces made from bronze, sterling on objects in the National Gem and Mineral
silver and crystals. The sisters will honour their Collection. The two parties have entered into
TAG Heuer Unveils Women’s Armenian heritage by including symbols like a licensing agreement to produce a collection
Timepieces Armenian crosses and Magdalena necklaces. comprised of earrings, rings, bracelets, pins
Swiss luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer has and brooches, as well as replicas of pieces
unveiled new women’s timepieces from its Rare Pink Diamond Sets World in the museum’s collection. This is the first
Formula 1 and Carrera collections. The Auction Record time the Smithsonian has entered into a
Formula 1 capsule collection is a ceramic A rare pink diamond set two world auction partnership with a retailer to sell jewellery
and stainless steel timepiece with diamond records at a recent Christie’s sale in Hong based on its collection.
www.bergeon.ch
Rolex Announces Winners of Inaugural Youth Award

Rolex has announced the winners of the inaugural Young
No 6890-G-110 Laureates Program, an initiative aimed at supporting

visionary young men and women under 30 and enabling
them to implement inventive ideas that tackle the world’s
No 6890-D-110 most pressing issues – science and health, applied
Polisseuses compactes VARIO. Compact polishing unit Vario. technology, exploration, the environment and cultural
Vitesse progressive. Aspiration et Speed free adjustable. Independant dust preservation. Presented by CEO Bruno Meier, the five
éclairage incorporés indépendants. collection and incorporated lighting. winners of the $50,000 prize are 27-year-old Nnaemeka
Moteur à couple constant. Constant torque motor.
Ikegwuonu from Nigeria, 25-year-old Reese Fernandez
0-3600 rpm - 0.5 CV/HP from the Philippines, 26-year-old Jacob Colker from the
U.S., 28-year-old Bruktawit Tigabu from Ethiopia and
BERGEON SA
CH-2400 LE LOCLE
29-year-old Piyush Tewari from India.
Switzerland
030-033.CJ_FTR_re2.indd 32 5/7/10 12:11:19 PM

fortherecord
Hermès Launches First

Signature Engravings Offering Fine Jewellery Collection
JCK Special Hermès, the luxury brand known for its
Signature Engraving Systems is elegant leather goods and apparel, has
offering attendees of the 2010 launched its first fine jewellery collection with
JCK Shows in Toronto and Las accessories designer Paul Hardy. The 14-piece
Vegas an opportunity to receive equestrian-themed collection is called Haute
$1,300 in free equipment. Bijouterie and includes a 36.16-carat whip-
Signature, a leading provider shaped Fouet diamond necklace with 3,669
of computerized engravers, has diamonds, and the horse-hoof-inspired
announced that will be offering rose gold and black jade Centaure necklace,
the Name Necklace Machining bracelet, earrings and rings. Prices range
Center at no additional charge from US$23,675 to US$880,000. Each piece
to customers who purchase is packaged in a custom black alligator
a Signature 8080 Plus or leather box with a real zebra skin mat. This
8080 Super at the show. The annoucement has sent fashion follwers
Machining Center is an additional into a frenzy, as details on the future of the
attachment that is used to collection are sparce, including details on
manufacture custom charms how many pieces the next collection will
and name necklaces. carry or how often the line will be available to
MCD Pearls SQ:Layout 1 2/25/09 10:31 AMconsumers.
Page 1
MCD Pearl Imports

A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls
and pearl jewellery.
catalogue available upon request
27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426
Email info@mcdpearls.com
COLOUR CATALOGUE
THE SYSTEM
M T HE S Y
STE ST
SY EM
E
H
T
T
H
EM
SILVER
ST
SY
M TH E S Y
STE

JEWELLERY
M TH E
CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS

PENDANTS RINGS BANGLES
STE
SYS
LOCKETS CUBICS...
SY
DISPLAYS
EM
E
H
T
H
E
EM SY
ST STE
M T HE S Y
THE SYSTEM
TOLL FREE 1•800•661•4460
1670 MILLS RD, SIDNEY BC V8L 5S9
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 0 CJ 33
030-033.CJ_FTR_re2.indd 33 5/7/10 11:36:16 AM

fortherecord
Bulgari Retrospective On Display

in Australia
Bulgari’s retrospective exhibition, Between
stock index
Eternity and History: 1884-2009, has arrived Last Quarter Market
in Australia. The exhibition was developed to Company Name Stock Exchange Price Price % 52-Week 52-Week Revenue P/E Cap
Symbol 03/11/10 04/18/10 Change High Low ($Millions) Ratio ($Millions)
celebrate the Italian brand’s 125th anniversary,
from the opening of its first shop in Via Precious Metals
Sistina to present day, and includes over 500
Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $60.720 $60.380 -0.56% $77.320 $50.800 $149.3 138.74 9,448.66
pieces of jewelry, watchmaking, objets d’art Alamos Gold AGI TSX $13.770 $14.190 3.05% $14.690 $7.250 $52.7 25.78 1,558.77
and never-before-seen artifacts including Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $37.580 $38.580 2.66% $47.520 $29.830 $1,273.0 20.99 10,840.98
sketches, drawings and photographs of famous Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $40.050 $39.650 -1.00% $50.530 $33.010 $2,096.0 13.88 38,974.22
Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $32.740 $31.600 -3.48% $42.690 $19.090 $243.5 10.86 8,040.30
artists, aristocrats and celebrities. Among the Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $13.580 $13.760 1.33% $15.890 $8.680 $81.6 49.36 7,390.99
treasures on display will be gold and enamel First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $86.410 $78.730 -8.89% $100.320 $37.100 $656.3 12.42 6,187.39
Freeport-McMoRan FCX NYSE $80.500 $81.180 0.84% $90.550 $38.000 $4,610.0 13.86 34,907.40
snake wristwatches worn by Diana Vreeland, a Gammon Gold GAM TSX $9.630 $7.030 -27.00% $13.190 $6.610 $68.2 708 965.62
gilded ‘gemme nummarie’ necklaces assembled Gold Fields Ltd. (ADR) GFI NYSE $12.070 $12.570 4.14% $15.880 $10.330 $1,075.6 11.64 8,864.36
around oversized Roman coins and a diamond Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $40.870 $39.440 -3.50% $48.370 $32.390 $691.9 23.63 28,897.53
Harmony Gold Mining Co. (ADR) HMY NYSE $9.620 $9.380 -2.49% $12.390 $8.290 $397.0 28.27 3,996.63
brooch with a central emerald of more Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $15.150 $15.180 0.20% $21.950 $9.100 $265.3 42.22 5,594.65
than 18-carats given to Elizabeth Taylor by Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $16.500 $18.410 11.58% $18.980 $5.510 $11.9 N/A 6,965.97
Richard Burton for their engagement in 1962. Kinross Gold K TSX $18.440 $17.940 -2.71% $25.220 $16.520 $699.0 38.13 12,486.72
Lundin Mining LUN TSX $5.190 $5.230 0.77% $5.770 $1.900 $256.7 36.93 3,031.27
Newmont Mining NEM NYSE $50.420 $52.150 3.43% $56.450 $36.770 $2,518.0 18.84 25,053.38
Michael Kaye’s Jewellery Line Northgate Minerals Corp. NGX TSX $3.000 $3.030 1.00% $3.700 $1.590 $110.7 33.23 880.79
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $23.360 $25.220 7.96% $28.730 $18.580 $118.6 17.41 2,199.83
Coming To Canada PolyMet Mining Corp. POM TSX $2.700 $2.350 -12.96% $3.890 $0.900 $0.0 N/A 326.84
Canadian fashion designer Michael Kaye’s new Randgold Resources Ltd. (ADR) GOLD Nasdaq $75.650 $79.920 5.64% $90.300 $42.390 $138.6 22.9 7,200.79
jewellery line, Michael Kaye Bijoux, is making Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $20.200 $23.830 17.97% $24.490 $6.910 $114.0 47.74 5,524.43
Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $15.940 $17.500 9.79% $18.360 $8.310 $90.6 41.9 5,986.69
waves in New York and the native-Albertan Southern Copper Corp. SCCO NYSE $31.220 $33.270 6.57% $36.980 $16.990 $1,136.0 29.33 27,600.00
hopes to bring his latest collection to Canadian Taseko Mines Ltd. TKO TSX $5.140 $6.090 18.48% $6.190 $1.470 $56.0 84.57 1,114.01
retailers. The 50-piece Ladies Who Lunch Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $41.030 $42.670 4.00% $46.920 $8.250 $2,167.0 12.13 25,136.90
Thompson Creek Metals Co. Inc. TCM TSX $13.720 $13.430 -2.11% $16.500 $5.650 $106.3 6.9 1,873.64
collection is described as bold, colourful and Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $10.320 $10.220 -0.97% $15.000 $8.960 $399.8 37.37 7,495.47
sophisticated and includes necklaces, earrings GemStones
and bracelets. Anglo American PLC AAUKY OTC $20.150 $22.290 10.62% $23.550 $9.060 N/A 21.92 56,740.00
Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.115 $0.120 4.35% $0.155 $0.060 $0.0 6 10.05
Women’s Jewellery Association BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $78.500 $79.190 0.88% $83.200 $43.490 $23.1 23.07 132,974.26
BRC DiamondCore BCD TSX $0.130 $0.130 0.00% $0.180 $0.020 $0.0 N/A 12.96
Honours Shining Star Recipients Diamond Fields Intl. DFI TSX $0.075 $0.085 13.33% $0.110 $0.030 $0.8 N/A 3.99
The Women’s Jewellery Association (WJA), Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.270 $0.255 -5.56% $0.395 $0.125 N/A 26.37 19.17
an association of professional women in Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.330 $0.345 4.55% $0.375 $0.085 N/A N/A 11.85
Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $3.630 $4.070 12.12% $4.680 $1.770 205.84 5.91 2,876.99
the jewellery industry, has announced the Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $10.300 $10.460 1.55% $13.280 $4.320 $74.8 17.21 801.12
recipients of its Shining Star award. The award Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $2.050 $2.120 3.41% $3.310 $1.050 $0.0 N/A 134.19
Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. PGD TSX $1.650 $2.270 37.58% $4.650 $0.540 0 N/A 184.78
was given to 13 women, one from each WJA Rio Tinto PLC (ADR) RTP NYSE $224.230 $234.970 4.79% $248.970 $120.000 $0.0 10.6 58,566.27
chapter and recognizes the award winner’s Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.090 $0.120 33.33% $0.250 $0.055 N/A N/A 7.53
service, passion and commitment her local Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.065 $0.060 -7.69% $0.120 $0.035 N/A N/A 5.28
Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.095 $0.090 -5.26% $0.260 $0.085 $0.0 N/A 29.94
WJA chapter. The 2010 Shining Star Award Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.500 $0.630 26.00% $0.800 $0.105 $0.0 N/A 165.67
winners include Karen Janowski from Tiffany True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.090 $0.085 -5.56% $0.215 $0.080 N/A N/A 6.75
and Co., Judi Shechter, GG, CG, AJP from the Vale (ADR) VALE NYSE $30.150 $33.460 10.98% $34.710 $14.580 $6,333.0 9.84 161,611.80
Gemological Institute of America and Merrill Jewellers & Retailers

Essex, GG, Essex Antiques and Collectibles. Birks and Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.820 $0.980 19.51% $1.800 $0.260 N/A N/A 11.16
Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $38.930 $41.070 5.50% $41.500 $17.190 $527.8 19.2 2,741.01
Sears Canada SCC TSX $28.840 $28.600 -0.83% $29.850 $18.600 $1,525.1 13.49 3,077.96
Faberge To Launch More Signet Group SIG NYSE $29.540 $33.980 15.03% $34.380 $14.800 $1,203.6 16.1 2,905.29
Conventional Jewellery Collection Tiffany and Co. TIF NYSE $45.600 $50.200 10.09% $51.390 $23.850 $981.4 23.23 6,247.39
Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $53.970 $54.110 0.26% $56.270 $47.350 $113,651.0 14.84 206,168.30
The recently revived Fabergé, known for its Zale Corp. ZLC NYSE $3.030 $3.240 6.93% $8.510 $1.800 $582.3 N/A 103.81
luxuriously ornate eggs, is set to launch a more
Commodities
conventional jewellery line. Designed by French
Gold COMX $1,135.200
boutique jeweller Frederic Zaavy, the 132-piece Silver COMX $17.710
collection will use various stones on each Platinum NYME $1,692.800
piece to create mosaic effects. [CJ] Palladium COMX $533.200
*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.
030-033.CJ_FTR_re2.indd 34 5/7/10 11:36:37 AM

miningnews
Golden Hope Completes First $20.5 million in the first quarter of 2010 was Sunrise Announces Deal
Phrase Drilling $1.2 million or six per cent lower than the on Sudbury Gold Mine
Junior mineral exploration company Golden corresponding period in the previous year, Macclesfield-based mining company
Hope Mines Ltd. has advanced towards due to a 29 per cent decrease in deliveries of Sunrise Diamonds has announced that the
completion of the first phase of its 2010 diamond concentrates produced at Chelopech, lower Company has signed a three-year option
drilling program on Bellechasse-Timmins. The gold in concentrate sold and net unfavourable deal on Long Lake Gold Mine near Sudbury,
company has completed seven of 16 drill holes, mark-to-market adjustments and final Ontario. The mine at Long Lade had historic
for a total of 1090 meters, and expects that settlements. production of 57,000 uonces of gold from
this stage of the 2010 drilling program will be 200,000 tonnes of ore between 1910-1916
completed during the first week of May 2010. Yamana Gold Announces and 1932-1939. Sunrise acquired the options
The purpose of the first phase of drilling is to 50 Per Cent Increase in Dividend from local prospector Gordan Salo. Sunrise
test for extensions of zones T1, T2A, T2B and Yamana Gold Inc. announced that the has the option to acquire a 100 per cent
Ascot and to explore the road zones which lies Company has increased its dividend. The interest by making staged payments totalling
between T1 and Ascot structures. Board of Directors has approved an increase (CDN)$575,000 over a three-year period,
in Yamana’s dividend to an annulalized $0.06 by meeting exploration expenditures of
Goldcorp’s $100 Deal per share, or $0.015 per share per quarter. (CDN)$500,000 in that period, and by issuing
Senior gold producer Goldcorp Inc. has This represents a 50 per cent increase over the up to 5,000,000 five-year share warrants.
participated in the $100 million bought deal prior annualized divident of $0.04 per share, Said Sunrise Chairman Patrick Cheetham,
and non-brokered private placement with or $0.01 per share per quarter. The dividend “We are very excited to have been granted an
Terrane Metals. Goldcorp will take up 27.3 increase will be in effect for the seond quarter option over the Long Lake Gold Mine. This
million units at $1.10 per unit while the other divident, payable July 14, 2010, to holders of agreement secures a key objective after a long
63.7 million units were purchased by syndicate record at the close of business on June 30, and intensive search for a new gold project
underwriters led by National Bank Financial. 2010. The dividend is an “eligible dividend” for for the company.” He added, “The company
Each unit consists of one common share and Canadian tax purposes. intends to start exploration in and around
one-half common share purchase warrant. the Long Lake Gold Mine immediately and
Terrane, a Canadian minearal development 11.34 Carat Diamond expects to carry out diamond drilling this
and exploration company, will use the net Recovered From Obtala’s Sierra summer season. Work will also be carried out
proceeds to fund the construction program Leone Diamond Project to evaluate the 200,000 tonne gold-tailings
at Mt. Milligan copper-gold development UK resources investment and development resource which remains on site.”
northwest of Prince George, BC. company Obtala Resources has, through the
Company’s diamond mining operation at Northern Shield and
Dundee Precious Metals Reports Konoma, Sierra Leone, recovered 1,000.54 Discovery Harbour Announce
First Quarter 2010 Results carats from 1,540 stones, including an 11.34 Drill Hole Assay Results
Dundee Precious Metals Inc. announced carat stone. Mining licenses at the Sierra Leone Northern Shield Resources Inc. and its
results for the first quarter ended March 31, operation are held by the 100 per cent-owned partner Discovery Harbour Resources Corp.
2010. DPM reported a first quarter net loss of Obtala subsidiary, Sierra Leone Hard Rock announced that assay results from the first
$48.3 million, compared with a first quarter Limited (SLHR). After SLHR was acquired in seven of the 10 planned drill-holes at Northern
2009 loss of $4.9 million. The first quarter 2010 January 2010, Obtala also restarted the Dense Shield’s Wabassi property in northern Ontario
loss includes net impairment provisions of Medium Separation (DMS) plant. Chairman of have been received. The drill program
$50.6 million related to a proposed Bulgarian Obtala Frank Scolaro said in a statement, “I am is funded under the terms of the option
metals processing facility. “During the very pleased with the progress being made by agreement between Northern Shield and
quarter,” said Jonathan Goodman, President our team on the mine site over the last month. Discovery Harbour. “The commitment to this
and CEO, “we completed the purchase of the We were fully aware when starting-up that it project by our partners and their rapid and
Tsumeb smelter in Namibia, securing long- takes time to revive the operation, which had aggressive exploration approach is a testament
term processing of our Chelopech concentrate, been sitting on care-and-maintenance since to the excitement generated from this new
and the Chelopech mine/mill expansion is 2008. We have fully staffed the operation and discovery says Northern Shield President
fully underway, on schedule and on budget. We intend to ensure that operating costs are kept and CEO, Ian Bliss. Executive Vice President
are looking forward to an exciting year which to a minimum. We are currently operating of Discovery Harbour Michael Senn added
will see significant advances in the Chelopech at less than 40 per cent capacity but will that continued exloration at Wabassi will
expansion, completion of the commissioning continue to ramp up production levels over be directed towards further understanding
of the Tsumeb oxygen plant, an expansion of the coming months. The volume of stones the VMS system on the property, as well as
our Kapan mine in Armenia and a new project recovered against a low level of gravel feed is the discovery of high grade nicke-copper
plan for our Krumovgrad gold property.” an achievement highlighting the strong upside mineralization, an indication of which as seen
Net revenue from the sale of concentrates of growth potential of the project.” in two of the drill holes. [CJ]
036.CJ_MiningNews.indd 36 5/7/10 9:45:39 AM

miningfeature
First Class
It’s been almost two years since the
Victor Mine opened in Ontario, and
Birks held a prestigious unveiling
of the first lot of Ontario certified
diamonds. BY PAUL AGUIRRE
T
he De Beers Canada Victor Mine is Ontario’s first diamond mine CJ: Can Ontario certified diamonds be purchased elsewhere in Canada?
and the second mine in Canada for the company. Discovered
as part of a diamond-bearing kimberlite cluster in 1987, the Birks: Yes. They will be available elsewhere, but Birks will be the first to
Victor Mine officially opened on July 26, 2008 and currently employs make Ontario diamonds available to the public.
approximately 500 people. In early April, Birks invited us to view the
first diamonds to see the outside world in an exclusive unveiling. The CJ: Tell us about the Bespoke Diamond program that will also be
Ontario certified diamonds made their first public appearance at the available with the traveling show.
Toronto flagship store from April 26 – May 1, and Birks announced
there will be a traveling show that will visit other cities to showcase this Birks: We’re offering our clients an opportunity to have an experience
industry milestone. that allows them to design a piece of diamond jewellery that is
completely made-to-order from its transformation from a rough to
Canadian Jeweller magazine (CJ): Tell us about those involved in the polished diamond in its fi nal form. The client will be able to purchase
project at the De Beers Canada Victor Mine. a rough diamond and decide how it will be cut, polished and set;
jewellery will be set at the Montreal studio. Th is active involvement
Birks: Crossworks Manufacturing Ltd. is a manufacturing company in the polishing of the diamond offers a unique experience that has
in Sudbury, that will cut and polish 10 per cent of the diamonds from never been offered before by a retailer in North America and possibly
De Beers Canadas Victor Mine. It operates three factories in Canada the world – the bespoke diamond. Birks will bring the Ontario
(Sudbury, Yellowknife and Vancouver) and is the largest manufacturer diamonds (rough and polished) to other cities in Ontario and then
of branded Canadian diamonds in the world. Crossworks is also the only across Canada before they come back to the Toronto Bloor Street store
company with diamonds that are mined, cut and polished in Ontario. in time for the Toronto International Film Festival. Dates were not
available at time of print.
CJ: What is an Ontario certified diamond? How do the Ontario certified
diamonds compare to other Birks diamonds? CJ: Why are Ontario certified diamonds unique in the marketplace?
Birks: These are the first official Ontario diamonds from the De Beers Birks: Consumers who purchase an Ontario certified diamond
Canada Victor Mine that have credentials and are mined, cut and can feel good about contributing to the prosperity of the province
polished entirely in Ontario. Each diamond comes with a certificate from while possessing a diamond that is linked to the beauty of Canada.
the government of Ontario, indicating the stone number, which is also These diamonds are entirely sorted, cut and polished in Ontario,
etched in the stone itself. Ontario stones purchased at Birks will also come thus contributing to the local economy. It brings diamonds into
with a Birks certificate and will be etched with a Maple Leaf. The Ontario the consumer concept of “buy local.” Every diamond is unique, but
certified diamonds are certified to Birks diamond standards, offering a Canadian diamond, in particular an Ontario certified diamond,
maximum brilliance and employing the GIA diamond grading scale, with guarantees the exact square kilometre a diamond originates from and
a clarity of IF to SI1 and colours from D through I. the exact location it was polished. [CJ]
038.CJ_Mining.indd 38 5/7/10 12:48:03 PM

facevalue
Appraisal:
Updated
Looking at the current world of gems
and jewellery, very little has remained
the same as it was 100 years ago. In
fact, very little has remained the same
as it was even 20 years ago.
By D uncan Parker
W
hen I started out in this appraising gambit, only (dare I say it?)
20 years ago, there were certainly some challenges, including
treatments and synthetics. Technically, synthetic gems did
exist over 100 years ago, but the world was a simpler place then, and I’m
not quite old enough to remember it (I’m pretty sure there is a diamond
setter nearby who does remember, but I feel it would be rude to ask).
There have always been issues; they keep life interesting.
The biggest changes in the past few years are ease of communication,
instant connectivity, vertical integration and simple, far-reaching
internatonal trade. A gem dealer in New York, Idar Oberstein, or Toronto
is no more knowledgable, connected or savvy than one in Bangkok,
Colombo or Jaipur.
040-041.CJ_FaceValue_re.indd 40 5/7/10 4:51:10 PM

cjJuneJuly10_PolarGem_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:28:42 PM

facevalue
“The Internet purchaser will go to an appraiser to confirm that

a purchase is the same as was stated by the dealer.
”
The difference now is that the majority of coloured gem and diamond greater standardization of grading, and to a vast number of diamond
dealers have direct connections to affiliate operations in one or more grading reports being issued. If the GIA uses consecutive numbers,
far-away places. Jewellery manufacture has moved to places that can the latest report I’ve seen suggests that GIA has produced more
provide the most cost-effective labour, while head offices remain in diamond gradings than McDonald’s has sold hamburgers. A “cert”
locations closer to the market for the finished goods. from an internationally recognized and respected lab provides
an Internet purchaser with a certain level of comfort in making a
With this globalization, there have been necessary changes in the purchase online.
way things are done through the whole supply chain. On average, the
transportation of gems and jewellery through the trade around the world The gem buyer is more connected, though perhaps no more
is faster than virtually any other commodity. Most gems and jewellery knowledgable, than ever. He (and it is more commonly males buying
in our trade are carried by buyers and sellers or by couriers, and take days, on the Internet) can collect data from around the world, and the
and not weeks or months, to make their journey. What was produced in world is happy to supply it. The user of gem and jewellery information
Indonesia last week might be for sale in a Montreal store next week. requires some consistency, and this is great for an organization like
GIA because the consumer can compare gems on a level basis if all
The immediacy of shipping and often transparent borders means that we diamonds are graded by the same organization. The consumer gets
often have instant awareness of what is happening in the trade around confused trying to buy a diamond if one is Top Wesselton, and one is
the world. If some event occurs in one country, it can cause a knock- G colour.
on effect quickly through the trade. We might read about protests in
the streets of Bangkok one day, and next week find that a gem dealer is Several things have attended the growth of demand for diamonds with
having a hard time filling an order for a sapphire. Madagascar recently a pedigree in the form of a GIA, American Gem Society (AGS), Belgian
enacted an embargo on the export of gems, and with that, there was an High Diamond Council (HRD), or similar report. The consumer is aware
almost instant decrease in availability of pink sapphires. of so many particulars of a diamond that every appraiser must be able
to confirm details and provide additional factors that aren’t included on
All of these factors lead to a desire for standardization of practice a cert. The Internet purchaser will go to an appraiser to confirm that a
and terminology for the global trade. There are calls for international purchase is the same as was stated by the dealer.
governance, and consumers expect common practice from all potential
sources of supply of goods or services. Cut grade is very important to consumers, and appraisers must have
equipment to verify proportions of diamonds. Sarin or OGI non-
As an appraiser, I see the results of international awareness and globally contact measurement hardware and accompanying software, along
integrated markets. For decades, the grading of diamonds has been with light performance software such as AGS ASET, is necessary to
gradually honing in on standardization. The Gemological Institute of verify ideal and excellent cut diamonds. These allow labs and appraisers
America (GIA) clarity and colour standards have been taking hold, and to prepare documents that provide records of diamond proportions.
now it is highly unusual to find a diamond graded anywhere without With standardization throughout the trade and dispensed through the
mention of clarities and colours in GIA terminology. Internet, consumers come to diamond purchases armed with mountains
of statistics and now expect the appraiser to provide sophisticated
The fact that, through the Internet, I can buy a diamond from an analysis of diamond cut that can be compared with others before
unknown dealer from an unknown place in the world has led to committing to a purchase.

CANADA
TORONTO. MONTREAL, YELLOWKNIFE
VANCOUVER, CALGARY Suite 111, 5109-48th St.
27 Queen Street, Suite 604 Yellowknife, NT X1A1N5
Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 Tel.(867) 873-6305
Tel. 416-362-9643 Fax (867) 669-9994
Fax 416-362-9771 E-mail: info.yz@malca-amit.com
E-mail: sales.tor@malca-amit.com
U.S.A.
NEW YORK
580 Fifth Avenue, Lobby 1
New York, NY 10036
Tel. 1-212-840-8330/2
Fax. 1-212-840-1368
E-mail: sales.nyc@malca-amit.com
CHICAGO MIAMI
5 South Wabash Ave., Suite 1414 536 NE 1 Street, Suite # 402
Chicago, IL 60603 Miami, FL 33132
Tel. 1-312-346-1507 Tel. 1-305-358-8610
Fax. 1-312-346-1896 Fax. 1-305-358-8612
E-mail: machi@malca-amit.com E-mail: sales.mia@malca-amit.com
KENTUCKY LOS ANGELES

911 Grade Lane 550 South Hill St., Suite 1590
Louisville, KY 40213 Los Angeles, CA 90013
Tel. 1-502-361-3331/7 Tel. 1-213-627-1103
Fax. 1-502-361-3445 Fax. 1-213-627-1047
E-mail: hub.ky@malca-amit.com E-mail: sales.lax@malca-amit.com
Malca-Amit provides service for all the domestic shows.
cjJuneJuly_dpsAd1.indd 1 5/5/10 3:53:09 PM

facevalue
There are some other things a consumer wishes to be made aware of. In
this small world, we are aware of improper activities, and in attempting
to avoid purchasing something that is compromised in some way,
consumers would like to know that their diamonds are conflict-free,
for example. The United Nations introduced the Kimberley Process
(KP) to track rough diamonds to ensure that the consumer is not
buying a diamond from a conflict zone. Assurances are passed on to
the consumer in the form of labels and statements on invoices and
memos that diamonds are conflict free. This process, although good in
intention, is not very reliable. We are seeing diamonds from Zimbabwe
entering the market, for example, yet they are almost assuredly of violent
or dubious provenance. An appraiser has no way of truly verifying a
polished diamond as being associated with a certain KP certificate. The
certificates are only issued on rough diamonds.
Something that appraisers are able to verify is the treatment of many

gems. The glass filling of rubies, or the insertion of pieces of ruby into glass
is endemic in the market right now, and easily identified. Appraisers are
called on to deliver identifications and values. Yet, the identification of
glass filled ruby as “glass filled ruby” draws the ire of some dealers. We
are now seeing certificates that dance around the correct description. I
have seen descriptions from identification certificates as “heat treated
ruby” for ruby that is in fact at least half glass. At a conference in
Thailand last year, I heard a minister responsible for trade admonish the
assembled gemmologists to stop describing the locally produced glass
filled ruby as “glass filled” because it was bad for business.
Glass filled ruby was selling at the Tucson gem shows this year for as
little as $1 per carat. The stuff is hardly ruby, and is sometimes selling
for less than cubic zirconia: The Canadian Guidelines with Respect to
the Sale and Marketing of Diamonds Gemstones and Pearls requires
disclosure of detectable treatments that affect the appearance of and
apparent value of a gem.
With the shrinking world, we are seeing many sets of standards being
harmonized. The international jewellery organization, CIBJO, the
American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), the International Coloured
Gem Association (ICA) and groups of labs, which all previously had their
own standards, are increasingly working to harmonize terminology and
standards. An example is the recent move by CIBJO to allow the use of
terms such as “laboratory grown” as an alternative to “synthetic.” This
was a hard won move, argued against by many of the “we’ve always done
it this way and it worked for my grandparents” types on CIBJO, but it
finally brought CIBJO in line with almost everyone else. Moves such as
this should be followed by labs and appraisers the world over. Common
terminology and standard uses will only help to provide the consumer
with a greater comfort in making a decision to purchase when buying
gems and jewellery. [CJ]

Exceptional solution for your Low Value shipments
Contact your local Malca-Amit

representative and discover how
you can save time, money and
enjoy worry-free shipping with
Malca-Amit Express.
TORONTO. MONTREAL, MALCA-AMIT YELLOWKNIFE

VANCOUVER, CALGARY ~ NORTH AMERICA ~ Suite 111, 5109-48th St.
27 Queen Street, Suite 604 Yellowknife, NT X1A1N5
Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 Tel.(867) 873-6305
Tel. 416-362-9643 Fax (867) 669-9994
Fax 416-362-9771 E-mail: info.yzf@malca-amit.com
E-mail: sales.tor@malca-amit.com
NEW YORK MIAMI CHICAGO

580 Fifth Avenue, Lobby 1 36 NE 1 Street, Suite # 402 5 South Wabash Ave., Suite 1414
New York, NY 10036 Miami, FL 33132 Chicago, IL 60603
Tel. 1-212-840-8330/2 Tel. 1-305-358-8610 Tel. 1-312-346-1507
Fax. 1-212-840-1368 Fax. 1-305-358-8612 Fax. 1-312-346-1896
E-mail: sales.nyc@malca-amit.com E-mail: sales.mia@malca-amit.com E-mail: machi@malca-amit.com
MALCA-AMIT CHB KENTUCKY LOS ANGELES

153-66 Rockaway Boulevard 911 Grade Lane 550 South Hill St., Suite 1590
Jamaica, NY 11434 Louisville, KY 40213 Los Angeles, CA 90013
Tel. 1-718-525-6100 Tel. 1-502-361-3331/7 Tel. 1-213-627-1103
Fax. 1-718-525-6200 Fax. 1-502-361-3445 Fax. 1-213-627-1047
E-mail: sales.nycchb@malca-amit.com E-mail: hub.ky@malca-amit.com E-mail: sales.lax@malca-amit.com
WORLDWIDE
ARMENIA • AUSTRALIA • BELGIUM • CHINA • DUBAI • ENGLAND • FRANCE • GERMANY
HONG KONG • INDIA • ISRAEL • ITALY • JAPAN • KOREA • RUSSIA • SINGAPORE
SOUTH AFRICA • SPAIN • SRI LANKA • SWITZERLAND • THAILAND • TURKEY
cjJuneJuly_dpsAd2.indd 1 5/5/10 3:54:45 PM

The
Artisans
Marcella Cusano talks about the family jewels, and
why she flew to London to deliver a wedding band.
By Carol Besler
Photography By Katie Huisman
M
arcella Cusano, who runs Montecristo Jewellers in Vancouver,
can say with more authenticity than most that she grew up
in the jewellery industry. She was born the day before her
father opened the first Montecristo store in 1978, “so we are twins,” she
jokes. By the time she was five years old, she was going to the store “to
hang out with dad,” and by the time she was eight, she was answering
the telephones, opening the door, meeting and greeting people
“while smiling and looking cute.” she says. Marcella officially joined
Montecristo Jewellers full-time in 2003. “Previously I was a grade five-
and-six school teacher. So I went from educating children, to educating
adults!” Today, she is CEO of Montecristo, although she doesn’t call
herself that – “I don’t really have a title, as we are all team players,
however my role is to oversee everything.”
044-049.CJ_CoverStory.indd 46 5/10/10 1:02:10 PM

coverstory

Montecristo Jewellers is a family business, founded by Pasquale Cusano, The store’s name is borrowed from the legend of the Count of
who came to Canada in 1967, when he was 17 years old. Montecristo, the Alexander Dumas novel, about a young man
falsely accused of treason by a jealous friend who wanted to steal his
“This was out of necessity,” says Marcella. “He was a farmer, and the girlfriend. The Count escapes and uses a hidden treasure to exact his
Arno in Florence, Italy, had flooded and ruined all the crops. His family revenge. “In the story, the Count of Montecristo finds a treasure chest
was sponsored by his uncle to come to Canada in search of a better filled with gold. Our treasure chest was empty, so we needed to create
life.” the jewels ourselves,” laughs Marcella. The first Montecristo location
was on Victoria Drive and 41st Street in Vancouver, a European part
Pasquale arrived in the New World without knowing a word of English of town that has since evolved and changed and therefore relocated in
and with no trade. He took a succession of jobs in order to make ends 2009 to Metropolis at Metrotown. Montecristo branched out in 1983
meet: at one point he worked in construction by day and in a bakery at to Oakridge Mall and then, in 2003, opened its striking downtown
night. “But he always had a passion for jewellery,” says Marcella, “and boutique in a Heritage building, Credit Foncier, at the corner of West
in 1976, he joined Firenza Jewellers, owned by Osvaldo Giulianetti. Hastings and Hornby. The three locations are all going strong. At
Pasquale worked in the store during the day, and at night he learned present, the Montecristo Oakridge location is undergoing a major
how to make jewellery. He aspired to have his own store one day and expansion.
be a leader in the field, by creating original designs. On April 1, 1978 he
opened Montecristo Jewellers.” His motto was: “Not to be the biggest, Before taking a full-time post in the family business, Marcella
but to be the best.” Today, the store still specializes in handcrafted completed a diamond grading course as well as a jewellery design
jewellery. Along the way, it has developed a solid business as one of the course in Florence, Italy, both offered through GIA. Her most important
most important retailers in Canada. lessons, however, were learned by working alongside her father. “He

coverstory
has taught me about the importance of honesty and integrity,” says Montecristo carries many of the world’s most prestigious brands, many
Marcella. “He also taught me that quality and, most of all, passion, are of them exclusively in the stores’s three markets. They include Breguet,
essential ingredients for a successful jewellery business. You need to Harry Winston, Jaeger Le Coultre, Rolex, Cartier, Bulgari, Omega, Chanel,
be self-motivated, and have the desire to continue to learn and strive Hermès, Mikimoto and Wellendorff – some of the most sought-after names
for perfection. It is not about being the biggest, but the best!” says in the business. “We have chosen to partner with brands that complement
Marcella. “It is important to be driven by quality, detail and design, our assortment, yet don’t compete with each other,” says Marcella. The
and to lead by example.” jewellery mix, true to Montecristo’s roots, is all handmade and mostly one-
of-a-kind. “Montecristo is a boutique that has created original handcrafted
She is joined in the Cusano quest for perfection by her brother, jewellery the artisan way ever since its inception in 1978,” says Marcella.
Giancarlo, 23, who serves as financial controller for both Montecristo “We work with 18k yellow gold, 19k white gold, and platinum – 95% of our
Jewellers and the family’s other business, a publishing company that jewellery business is custom. No two Montecristo pieces are the same.”
produces NUVO magazine and Montecristo magazine, where brother
Massimo, 27, is office manager. The magazines are an extension of Not surprisingly, given the nature of the business and the intrinsically
Pasquale’s commitment to quality and prestige. Since its first issue in personalized nature of a custom jewellery design operation, Montecristo’s
1998 NUVO, edited by Marcella’s sister, Claudia Cusano, has earned a main source of new business is word of mouth. “Although we are firm
reputation as Canada’s premier luxury magazine, while Montecristo, believers in advertising through magazines, newspapers, radio and in-
a city magazine edited by Jim Tobler, Nuvo’s editor from 2000-2006, store events to reinforce and create desire, we also recognize that we
has become equally esteemed in the publishing world since it started need to build a relationship with each customer and try to educate them
two years ago. These publishing endeavors are evidence of Pasquale’s about quality,” says Marcella. “The best form of advertising is through
entrepreneurial skill and instinct for great design. word of mouth.”

“educating
If jewellers take pride in better quality and in
consumers about quality jewellery,
the whole industry would benefit.
”
So intent is she to build loyalty among clients that Marcella once flew to
London to deliver a handcrafted custom designed Montecristo wedding
band. “An out-of-town couple was visiting Vancouver for only a day,
and wanted to purchase a Montecristo wedding band because they
loved our quality and product. As the goldsmiths could not finish it
in the short timeframe, I volunteered to deliver. The trip cost me more
than the band,” she says, “ But I have gained a customer for life ... and I
had always wanted to see London.”
The Cusano philosophy hinges on acknowledging that they are in the

luxury business, which means standing behind what they sell. “We
provide value and service for the consumer every day,” she says. “We
do not inflate prices and then run a sale campaign. In its 32 years in
business, Montecristo has never run a sales promotion,” says Marcella.
“We think it is essential to be honest and give the best value for the
product we deliver. We believe in what we are selling and we have stayed
true to our promise of quality and value.”
In fact, when asked what she feels is the top issue facing the jewellery
industry today, Marcella answers: “If jewellers take pride in better
quality and in educating consumers about quality jewellery, the whole
industry would benefit. Nobody NEEDS jewellery. We have to create
the desire!”

What advice would she give to anyone starting a jewellery business
today? “If you are in it for the money, choose another profession. If
you are in it for the passion, pay attention to fine details, be willing to
continuously learn, think long term and work hard. Remember that the
$1,000 sale is just as important as the $100,000 sale.” She adds: “And
have fun. Be happy and be passionate!”
When asked what she loves about the business (what’s not to love?), she
replies, “I love the people! If you don’t have the people, there would be
no business. It’s all about building relationships and maintaining them.
Who would be upset to work in a happy environment with beautiful
jewels.” [CJ]

coverstory

jvcfeature
School
Cool
B Y GREG MERRALL Author and hi
s student
In the words of U.S. President Barrack Obama, "We have an obligation and a responsibility to be investing in our students and our schools," and so JVC
is proud to be part of the Georgian College award program acknowledging the top three students in the school's Jewellery and Metals Programs. JVC
benefits from the wisdom and dedication that Greg Merrall, the program's coordinator, brings to the JVC Board of Directors as well as from a number of
the students who bring hard work, enthusiasm and the sheer element of fun volunteering to assist JVC in our fundraising efforts. As we have often said
after one of our successful events, if these students are the future of our industry, then we are in good hands! — Phyllis Richard, executive director, JVC.
I am the coordinator of the Jewellery and Metals Program at Georgian gem and mineral shows in Tucson. I was there with 34 other staff
College, in Barrie, Ontario. students and alumni. The American Gem T rade Association (AGTA)
is kind enough to encourage our participation in this yearly event.
My decade as a non-voting director on the Advisory Board of Jewellers Th is cooperative learning experience is, I believe, absolutely necessary
Vigilance Canada (JVC), started in 2000. I was asked to represent to better understand our industry. The students are overwhelmed by
my post-secondary educational institution, as well as offer insight to the magnitude of what confronts them. These shows are a humbling
the other institutions across Canada that provide jewellery programs experience for us all. We are there for five days and cram nine shows
and courses. These colleges offer a wide spectrum of achievement into our itinerary. For the most part, dealers and those with displays
credentials, from degrees to certificates. I don’t pretend to be familiar are very supportive and encouraging about the future of our industry.
with the particulars of every school, but I’ve been a teacher for over One particular incident sums up that experience. Todd Reed’s booth
20 years, and was in the jewellery industry for 20 years prior to that. in the AGTA Show impressed and awed us all. Todd spent a good half-
I believe I have an understanding of the importance of education as it hour talking to the students who were fortunate enough to be present.
relates to our industry. He presented his pieces for inspection, all the while discussing his
fabrication and fi nishing details. He invited questions, discussed
At a Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) general meeting many pricing and talked of sourcing materials. He was transparent in his
years ago, outgoing chairman John Nash of Nash Jewellers in London, views and opinions. Listening to Todd speak about commitment,
Ont., called jewellery students “the future of our industry.” How passion and dedication, resonated with our group. Those topics of
right he was, and still is. As a director of JVC, I see my role as a link discussion embraced the ethical practices we wish to advance.
between our industry and our students, making every effort to ensure
our staff imparts the primary mandate of the JVC – “advancing For the past couple of years our students have volunteered at JVC
ethical practices” in the jewellery industry. Everyone in our industry events, including the annual golf tournament and the annual Jewellers'
should have this goal. For too long, aspects of the industry have Ball. They look forward to these opportunities, to help out and present
turned a blind eye to practices that undermine the integrity of our themselves to those in the industry who are prepared to help the JVC.
trade. The most important aspects of a successful jewellery business Th is can only auger well for their future.
seamlessly integrate the reality of honesty, respectability, integrity
and trustworthiness into their business. These are attributes that The JVC supports and acknowledges our programs through three
the JVC, a partner in our industry, relentlessly fosters, promotes and awards offered yearly, to the top academic student in each of our
advocates. three years. The students that receive these awards recognize that an
industry partner that truly understands the importance of education
We encourage our students to be proactive in their pursuit of a career has rewarded their hard work and commitment. For more information,
in the jewellery industry. To that end, I have just returned from the please visit www.jewelleryschool.ca. [CJ]
052.CJ_JVC.indd 52 5/7/10 9:57:57 AM

ER8-874
BANGLES
DBN8-217
DBN8-219
DBN8-218
Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds

Nova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
cjJuneJuly10_Mirage_Nova_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:10:21 PM

Gemmology for the Masses
A lesson in coatings and surface treatments.
B y The Canadian Gemmological A ssociation
T
he application of a surface treatment to make a gem look like patterned or textured by applying an alkalai compound to etch white
something different, or to look of better quality than it really is, designs on the surface of chalcedony beads and carvings. This process
has been carried out for centuries. This is one of the first things is still carried out today, producing attractive geometric patterns on
you learn when working with gems, and one of the most important. beads, which are available in Thailand and China. Sometimes both
etching and colouring are applied to the same gem.
Some coatings and surface treatments are as simple as a coloured
pigments painted on the surface of a gem or gem simulant. The ancient Many coatings are not disclosed, but most are detectable. The
Egyptians perfected the method of using a glass coating, glazing practice of coating a gem is generally done to improve its appearance;
carved scarabs and other forms in gems or clay, and colouring them sometimes it will entirely alter it. Gemmologists are generally able to
to simulate other gems. Blue glaze was used to imitate turquoise, for identify these treatments.
example. To this day, we still use such coatings.
There are many coated gems available on the modern market. There
The ancient Egyptians and Romans also developed methods of altering is a market for gems in all price brackets, and most coated gems are
gem appearances. Chalcedony, or agate, can be darkened through found in the lower price bracket. The cost of coating a gem is not nearly
heating, producing a brown coloured gem. Some Egyptian gems were as great as the cost of a higher quality specimen of the same gem.
048-049.CJ_Gem.indd 54 5/7/10 10:52:33 AM

gemfeature
“theAsappearance
long as they are not misrepresented, many coatings can legitimately serve to improve
of an inexpensive gem. Many beads of ruby, sapphire and emerald that were
originally nearly colourless have been treated with resin coatings of bright colours.
”
Among the gems that are coated, topaz is probably the most common. with the coated pavilion protected in a piece of jewellery, they may not
There are many brand names for coated topaz, among which is the most have been handled carefully prior to setting, so abrasions can occur in
commonly seen: mystic topaz. Many of the coatings on topaz are used transit and handling.
to impart an unnatural, but ornamental appearance to the gem. Topaz is
often coated with an iridescent multi-hued material that is intended to Coatings are usually not uniform in coverage over the surface of the
look colourful rather than realistic. The iridescent coatings are produced gem. Irregularity of the coating is of some assistance in identification,
in many colours, and are usually applied to colourless topaz. often revealing totally uncoated areas. Examining a gem from several
different directions is important, and often, through simple visual
Many coatings are applied only to the pavilion of the gem because it is examination, a colourless, or pale coloured crown can be revealed on a
not subject to the same wear and tear as the crown. Topaz is a hard gem distinctly coloured pavilion. Though this is not proof positive of coating,
(hardness 8 on Mohs scale) so it will wear well, but the coating could it should be enough to induce further scrutiny.
wear off if it is on the crown.
Most gems with pavilion coatings still display their regular refractive index,
Topaz of a pink or red colour is quite rare in nature, but is often and specific gravity will remain the same regardless of most coatings.
encountered at modest prices in the marketplace. Like many iridescent
coatings, red or pink are sprayed on to the pavilion to produce a colour Interestingly, some companies are selling cubic zirconia as “diamond-
that wears well. In the case of the pink and red, the purpose is more coated.” The apparent purpose of a diamond coating on cubic zirconia
likely to deceive than to produce a “fun” gem such as mystic topaz. is to create a very hard and durable diamond surface on the cubic
zirconia. If the purpose is to induce durability, the coating needs to be
Diamonds are sometimes coated to alter the colour. A dot of blue is on the crown. Unfortunately there is no identifiable feature that can
applied near the girdle of an off-colour yellowish diamond to counteract help a gemmologist determine the presence of diamond coating on
the yellowish colour. More commonly, however, coatings are applied to cubic zirconia. In fact, there have been no indications of the presence of
diamonds to induce apparent colour, rather than reduce it. Coatings of diamond at all in tests that have been done by most labs.
bright colours, such as pink, blue, orange, and others are applied to the
pavilion of diamonds to create the impression of fancy colours. As long as they are not misrepresented, many coatings can legitimately
serve to improve the appearance of an inexpensive gem. Many beads of
Very pale Tanzanite is sometimes coated to induce a better-selling blue ruby, sapphire and emerald that were originally nearly colourless have
colour. This coating is usually on the pavilion, as with so many other been treated with resin coatings of bright colours. As with most coatings,
coatings. Tanzanite is very distinctly pleochroic, showing blue when identification is made through the presence of chips or abrasions to the
viewed from one direction and violet when viewed from the other. surface. In beads, the coating is often found to be chipped around the
Coated tanzanite is conversely weak in pleochroic colours because the drill hole.
colour is not inherent to the gem, but just on the surface.
With the exception of materials that claim to be diamond-coated, and
Surprisingly, cubic zirconia is also coated. As a hard gem, it wears well might not be coated at all, the coatings on gems are usually identifiable
and makes a good candidate for colourful coatings. An increasing due to scratches, abrasions or chips on the coating. Uneven and irregular
amount of cubic zirconia is treated with iridescent coatings to produce coatings are also helpful in identification.
an appearance similar to mystic topaz in many different colours. As
with topaz and diamond, the coloured coatings are usually applied to It is always recommended to examine the surface of any gem carefully
the pavilion to avoid abrasion. and to look from several different directions if possible. Increasing
numbers of gems are coated, and this can have a substantial effect on the
In gem testing, the identification of a coating can often be detected by apparent value of a gem. Identification of coatings is generally simple,
the presence of scratches in the coating, particularly at facet junctions. and takes only a few extra moments when identifying a gem. It is always
Coated gems are often not terribly costly, so although they may be set worth spending the time to be sure of what you have. [CJ]
048-049.CJ_Gem.indd 55 5/7/10 10:52:42 AM

Excellence In Design_NEW_May5:Layout 1 5/7/10 1:18 PM Page 1
The Annual E XCELLENCE iN
design
Award Ceremony & Reception
To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact
Olivier Felicio at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.
For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact

Dan Hare at dan@rivegauchemedia.com or 416-203-7900 X 6101.
Entry deadline is July 2nd, 2010, 5 p.m.

Excellence In Design_NEW_May5:Layout 1 5/7/10 1:18 PM Page 2
ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’S

EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION
DESIGNER ’ S NAME
COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION
ADDRESS CITY
PROVINCE POSTAL CODE
PHONE FAX
EMAIL ADDRESS
CATEGORY
TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN ( SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS )
Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied
by technical details.)
ENCLOSED IS : MY FINISHED PIECE ( S ) OF JEWELLERY.

AN ENTRY FEE OF $25 ( CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA .)
I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.
SIGNATURE
SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.
RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION

• Jewellery must have been designed and made in • In each category, three finalists will be selected. the designer following JCK Toronto and prior to August
Canada. Judges will then choose an overall winner in 31st 2010. To arrange for the return of your entry,
• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must each category. please contact a Canadian jeweller representative at
adhere to the criteria set out in each category. • Finalists selected by the panel judges will be dis- (416) 203-7900. Finalists in each category will be re-
• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are played at JCK Toronto in the Canadian Jeweller booth quired for the Jeweller’s Ball on November 6th, 2010.
not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for from August 8 – 10, 2010. Delegates will be asked to • Winning entries and all information provided about
diamonds. vote by ballot on the top design within each category. the entries may be used for promotional purposes.
• One submission per designer, per category. Delegate votes and judges’ votes will be combined Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the de-
• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and and the overall winner in each category will be an- signs, as well as press releases, will also be used for
jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable nounced at the Jeweller’s Ball to be held in Toronto on this purpose.
precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, November 6th, 2010. • Finalists and overall winners will be featured in an
Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and issue of Canadian Jeweller.
insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your a $25 fee for each package. Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, cre-
own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, • Entry deadling is July 2nd, 2010, 5 p.m. ativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.
theft or damage for the duration of the competition. • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of Consideration will also be given to marketability.
Bounce Back
A positive outlook at Baselworld 2010 officially ushers in the year of recovery.
By Carol Besler
058-064.CJ_Basel.indd 58 5/7/10 11:49:24 AM

watchfeature
I
f the confidence demonstrated by new watch introductions at
Baselworld 2010 is any indication, the recession of 2009 is about to
become ancient history. Following a difficult year in which most
publicly traded watch companies reported double-digited declines in
sales and profits, brands exceeded expectations. While many in the
trade expected this year’s offerings to be derivative and down-market,
companies surprised buyers with quality, commercial line extensions
and new introductions that demonstrated renewed confidence in the
luxury market. Sales also exceeded expectations, according to exhibitors,
and to cap off the good news, the Federation of the Swiss watch industry
(FH) announced during the show that there was a 14.2 per cent rise in
exports for the month of February, the second consecutive monthly
increase following a bleak year that saw exports to its key market, the
U.S., decrease by as much as 50 per cent.
Attendance at the fair was up by seven per cent this year over 2008, and
sales increased accordingly, prompting exhibitors to express a sense
of relief and optimism: Jacques Duchêne, president of the Exhibitors’
Committee, confirmed: “We are delighted with this year’s Baselworld.
Without being euphoric, we can optimistically look ahead this year.
The show is and remains the place to meet for the watch and jewellery
industry.”
François Thiébaud, president of Tissot Watch and of the Swiss Exhibitors’

Committee, comments: “Exhibitors and visitors can smile again. More
than ever before, Basel is indispensable for us.” Karl-Friedrich Scheufele,
Co-President of Chopard, was also extremely pleased: “In comparison
to last year, this year’s show went much better. We welcomed more
customers – especially from the U.S. – and received many more orders.”
Françoise Bezzola, vice-president communications for TAG Heuer,
commented: “This was an exceptional year. After a tense period, we
experienced a festive and optimistic atmosphere at the show. Everyone
looks much more relaxed again here in Basel.”
Watch Sales 2009

Despite the following negative reports from public companies
in the watch industry, most sales for the first quarter of 2010 are
positive. LVMH, for example, reports a 34% sales increase for its
watch and jewellery division for the first quarter.
• Swatch down 8%
• LVMH down 1% overall, but in watch division, -13%
• Bulgari down 13.8%; watches 24.5% (in own boutiques: +20.2%)
• Movado down 17.9%
• Gucci down 8.1%
• Fossil down 2.2%
058-064.CJ_Basel.indd 59 5/7/10 11:49:38 AM

watchfeature
Heritage Sports
Several brands introduced vintage pieces this year to emphasize their The sport/dress watch is still the mainstay of the industry, with
heritage as watchmakers by paying tribute to designs either from several new models introduced. Chronotech Active introduced the
brand archives or contemporary brands with a vintage feel. Blancpain CT7112M/06M, a steel chronograph with spring-loaded buttons,
introduced a vintage 1960s Fift y Fathoms, the brand’s quintessential unidirectional bezel and luminous indexes, the signature elements of
diver’s watch; Bell & Ross presented the BR01 Heritage, an homage a true sports watch. The watch is made by Global Watch Industries
to the brand’s military inspired roots; Concord added a vintage look and newly distributed in Canada by Blue Point Jewellery. Casio
to what for the brand is a very recent collection, introducing the C1 introduced an entire new “Faces of Time” collection, including The
Vintage, with a trowalized or barrel finish, that creates a worn look Edifice, a 1/1000-second stopwatch that displays time elapsed using a
on the blue PVD case, and a leather strap that has been deliberately combination of the second hand and motorized disk-shaped indicators.
worked. TAG Heuer is making a limited-edition vintage Monaco, An indicator at 9 o’clock moves forwards and backwards, alternating
the watch made famous by Steve McQueen in the fi lm “Le Mans,” between 1/1000th and 1/100th of a second. The G-Shock Gravity Defier
and noted as the first automatic chronograph movement with micro- is shock resistant, water resistant, low-temperature resistant, vibration
rotor. Tissot’s Visodate 1957, marks the firm’s introductions of that resistant and electricity resistant. At the higher end, Blancpain added
era, a milestone of which was the integration of a date display into a Complete Calendar Moonphase Flyback Chronograph to its Fift y
the automatic mechanism. Fathoms Collection, distinguished by patented under-lug correctors
that eliminate the need for adjusters on the case side – a feature
The Concord C1 Vintage, Blancpain will incorporate into other collections going forward.
with distressed case
and strap.
The Casio Ediface, a
1/1000-second stopwatch
with elapsed time display.
Above: The Classic Perpetual

Calendar from the TX 310 Series.
Left: Tissot’s Visodate 1957
marks the brand’s introductions
of that era. The new Chronotech,
with spring-loaded buttons,
distributed by Blue Point Fine
Imported Jewellery.
058-064.CJ_Basel.indd 60 5/7/10 11:50:14 AM

World’s
The
Number One
Fine Jewellery Event
September
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
14 - 18 September 2010
AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong
Diamonds, Pearls, Gemstones,
Equipment and Packaging
16 - 20 September 2010
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre
Fine Finished Jewellery
UBM Asia Ltd

17/F, China Resources Building,
26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179
Fax: (852) 3749 7319
Email: salesjgf-hk@ubm.com
www.JewelleryNetAsia.com
9JG10 Ad 229x276mm_EN.indd 1 13/04/2010 12:27 PM

cjJunJul10_UBM_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:07:07 PM
Jewellery Watches Movements
Gemsetting, the epitome of watchmaking’s metiers d’art was on full TAG Heuer introduced the Grand Carrera Pendulum Concept, the
display at Baselworld 2010. Dior watches presented Christal Haute first-ever mechanical movement without a hairspring. The traditional
Couture, a collection of eight “passages” a term borrowed from the hairspring is replaced by an invisible or virtual spring derived from
couture fashion world meaning individual outfits. The collection magnets. Chopard, to celebrate its 150th anniversary, introduced
was designed by John Galliano, inspired by his Fall 2009 couture four new calibres: the L.U.C EHG, a chronometer-certified hand-
collection for Christian Dior, and consists of one-of-a-kind watches wound movement; the L.U.C 4TQE, an equation of time/tourbillon/
each set with a different gemstone color. Three have been produced perpetual calendar; the L.U.C 1TRM Engine One Tourbillon; and the
so far, set with iolite, mandarin orange garnet and tsavorite garnet. L.U.C 1.010 1937, an automatic with a 60-hour power reserve. Patek
Among the Pièces d’Exception offered by Hermès was the Cape Cod Philippe unveiled three new chronographs this year, including the
Tonneau with 1,100 full-cut “snow-set” diamonds, for a total of 7.6 new Chronograph Ref. 5170J, in a 1940s-style Calatrava case; the new
carats. Harry Winston, with the advantage of being owned by Aber, 29-535 PS caliber with a classic column wheel and a horizontal clutch,
a (Canadian) diamond company, presented several jewelled pieces, actually launched last November in the Ladies First Chronograph
including the spectacular Cluster of Time, a pendant watch set with (following five years of development); and the Ref. 5950A, a split-
57 carats of round, pear and marquise shaped diamonds. The Omega seconds monopousoir, caliber CHR27-525, the world’s thinnest split-
Constellation Baguette was another favorite, set with over 30 carats seconds chronograph movement with column-wheel control, at just
of baguette and trapeze cut diamonds and containing a Co-Axial 5.25mm. Bulgari introduced a new in-house calibre, the BVL168 self-
calibre 8421 movement. Chopard’s Caroline Scheufele, in celebration winding movement with instant-jump central date and 42-hour power
of the company’s 150th anniversary, designed a series of more than reserve, cased in the Sotirio Bulgari line. The Glashutte Senator Diary
150 pieces of jewellery and a trio of watches, each with an animal 100-13 is a new automatic calibre with a diary module that works
motif. The watches depict a three-dimensional, diamond penguin, like an alarm to notify the wearer of appointments up to 30 days in
monkey and polar bear over a mother-of-pearl marquetry dial. Jaquet advance. Breguet celebrates the 50th anniversary of its Type XX line
Droz weighs in with the spectacular Heure Celeste, set with blue pink with new flyback chronograph with GMT. The calibre 589F movement
and orange sapphires and tsavorite garnet. has a high-frequency silicon escapment (72,000 BPH), with a 45-hour
power reserve. In the quartz arena, Seiko launched the Quartz Astron
The Cape Cod Tonneau, from calibre 9F62, in homage to its original 1969 model, the fi rst watch
Hermès, with 1,100 full-cut in the world to use quartz technology. Upgraded technology allows
diamonds that are snow set – for a 1/2,000 of a second date change, and a second hand that aligns
paved with randomly sized gems.
itself exactly to each second marker, a feature that is not possible in a
conventional quartz watch.
The Seiko Quartz Astron

calibre 9F62.
Passage 1 from the Dior Christal Haute

Couture collection, set with 11 carats of iolite
and 0.84tcw in diamonds. The movement is
a Zenith Elite automatic. The new Sotirio Bulgari with the
BVL168 self-winding calibre.
058-064.CJ_Basel.indd 62 5/7/10 11:50:52 AM

watchfeature
Ladies Classic Three-Hand

Several new ladies’ lines were introduced this year, which will The vintage trend was also manifested in a return to simple three-
help to fi ll showcase space vacated by Cartier, which trimmed its hand models with centre hours and minutes and small-seconds
distribution by 150 points of sale earlier this year. Bedat introduced subdials. Revue Thommen introduced a model that pays tribute to
two new models in its #2 and #8 collections, both with interesting its mythical Square watch, originally launched in 1953. Chronoswiss
crowns that are integrated into the case. Both are available in haute launched a Sirius with a calibre C.111 hand-wound movement based
joaillerie versions. David Yurman’s new Ladies Classic collection was on the historical design of a similar movement from the 1950s. The
introduced to much fanfare. It is the first round watch designed by Atlantic Worldmaster 1888 pays tribute to the brand’s innovations
the brand, whose signature shape has been the cushion. The watch is in watchmaking since that date. Frederique Constant offered the
available in steel or 18k gold in two sizes – 30mm and 38mm – with a Maxime Manufacture Lady, an elegant interpretation of the classic
variety of dial options. Raymond Weil’s Freelancer Black 8 for ladies three-hand style with a FC-700 calibre movement.
depicts the lucky number on the dial, set with diamonds, containing
an automatic movement. Gucci intoduced a new ladies’ collection, The Revue Thommen
the U-Play, in which it resurrects its famous interchangeable bezel mythical Square three-
and strap concept. Bulgari resurrected its Serpenti line from the hand watch.
’60s, a serpent-motif bracelet watch that wraps around the wrist in a
tubogas bracelet style. The new models are available in steel, red gold
and a high jewellery version.
The Freelancer Black 8

from Raymond Weil.
Gucci’s new U-Play, with

interchangeable bezel and
strap concept.
The new Chronoswiss Sirius

with calibre C.111.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 0 CJ 63
058-064.CJ_Basel.indd 63 5/7/10 11:51:33 AM

watchfeature
Repeaters
This was the year of the minute repeater. As the highest representation
of haute horlogerie, all new introductions are in-house movements, Colours
with decorated and finished components, and all will be produced Grey and blue were the hot new dial and strap
in very limited numbers. Blancpain introduced a new grand colours this year, in keeping with Fall 2010 runway
complication, Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus, with the fashion collections.
world’s first carrousel powered cathedral gong minute repeater
movement. The Grande Seconde Minute Repeater from Jaquet Droz Grey:
is distinctive in that the gong is visible on the dial at the inner bezel • Modern Vintage watch from Guess,
where it strikes the case, and is engraved with a tiny music note. with a textured dial and leather strap.
Breguet introduced Reine de Naples Grande Complication Automatic, • The Ulysse Nardin Executive Dual Time in steel
a repeater for ladies, with a diamond indicator in a window on the and ceramic.
mother-of-pearl dial to indicate the strike is in the “on” position. The
piece is a high jewellery watch, set with over three carats of diamonds.
Milus has extended its TriRetrograde calibre to incorporate a repeater
function in the Tirion Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde. Fifty pieces
will be made, in red gold. Finally, Corum taps its roots as an haute
horlogerie brand by introducing a repeater in celebration of the 35th
anniversary of the Admiral’s Cup line. The Admiral’s Cup Minute
Repeater Tourbillon 45 is accommpanied by a tourbillon.
The World Watch and Jewellery Show, BaselWorld 2011, will take
place in Basel from March 24 to 31, 2011.
Breguet’s Reine de Naples

Grande Complication
Automatic,a repeater
for ladies.
Blue:
•T he Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Flyback
Chronograph.
• The Hermès Cape Cod Quadrige, with cloisonné
enameling in the pattern of the Quadrige silk
Hermès tie. [CJ]
Carrousel Repetition Minutes

Le Brassus, a repeater from
Blancpain.
058-064.CJ_Basel.indd 64 5/7/10 11:52:52 AM

OTTIMO CREATIONS INC. 1-800-363-0178, TWSTEEL-WATCHES@OTTIMOCREATIONS.COM, WWW.TWSTEEL.COM
cjJuneJuly10_Ottimo_TWsteel_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:12:22 PM

1010101010101010101010
0101010101010101010101
techfeature
1010101010101010101010
0101SERVICE10101010101
1010101010MADE0101010
010101010101SIMPLE101
1010101010101010101010
SaaS-SME. In the world of acronyms, these two are uniquely suited to working together –
Software-as-a-Service (SaaS) for the small and medium-sized enterprise (SME).
By A mber Klaehn
S
aaS is computer software, hardware and support rolled into one. SaaS also provides access to full-featured software that would otherwise
Software is developed for a specific business sector and is accessed be cost-prohibitive. Because SaaS is developed for an industry rather than
and used over the Internet. Rather than purchasing expensive, an individual retailer, users share in cost savings. There are additional
custom-designed software – and the hardware to run it – customers pay savings through the elimination of software-purchase, upgrade costs and
only for the service they consume. The SaaS provider fulfills ongoing support contracts. SaaS includes the business and database software as
maintenance functions of data backup and storage as well as software part of its monthly subscription fee. The user simply requires Internet
and system upgrades. Essentially, the user simply plugs in. connection and a Web browser, such as Internet Explorer, Firefox or Safari.
All users have access to the latest version of the software because updates,
What this means for the jewellery retailer is access to state-of-the-art upgrades and enhancements are available automatically. Software support
retail management software from any Internet-connected computer is included as part of the monthly subscription fee, eliminating the need
at a fraction of the cost of other software options. Traditional retail for expensive yearly support contracts and IT consultants.
management software requires expensive hardware, software, IT
support and complex and costly upgrade cycles. SaaS includes it all and Accessibility is another advantage of Saas. It is available from anywhere
is available on a pay-as-you-go basis on demand, typically on a monthly that has an Internet connection. Your data is still your data. You can back
fee arrangement. it up from the service at any time and store it within your store in Excel
spreadsheets or other popular formats.
Over the past year, this column has focused on how the jewellery
retailer can use technology to more effectively manage his business and Small businesses face greater challenges today than they have in the past
improve the bottom line. We have reviewed point-of-sale systems, client several decades. To compete effectively against larger and better-equipped
relationship management, inventory-control, targeted marketing and competitors, they need to reduce operating costs and better service their
reporting. There is no question that the retailer must invest in technology existing clientele. One way to do so is by leveraging the latest advances in
to increase efficiencies and stay competitive. But it can be a full-time job computer technology.
to stay on top of the latest trends and developments, to source the best
hardware and software solutions and then to install and manage them. Software-as-a-Service levels the playing field for small businesses in their
endeavor to compete against large, chain-based retailers. SaaS offers
The SaaS-solution is like having your own IT department. Users have first-rate jewellery-store-management software hosted on a world-class
access to world-class computing infrastructure and all that it offers: computing infrastructure. With no on-site software management or monthly
comprehensive data security, privacy protection and reliability, all of subscription fees, small businesses can significantly reduce operating costs,
which provide peace of mind to small business owners. For example, and realize the many benefits of today’s technology. The result is a higher
rather than investing in server hardware for data backup and storage, degree of operational efficiency and improved bottom-line results.
the SaaS provider includes this as part of the service. SaaS automatically
takes care of the tedious and time-consuming tasks of routine data back- SaaS lets you spend more time managing your core business. Software-as-
up to protect client information. a-Service for the Small and Medium-sized Enterprise. SaaS-SME. [CJ]
058-060.CJ_Tech.indd 66 5/7/10 9:56:02 AM

cjJuneJuly10_WCJE_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:08:17 PM

RADO r5.5 Watch, designed by Jasper Morrison,
High Tech Ceramic Bracelet, sapphire crystal,
skeleton red counter hands, $3,200.

productfocus
A TimelyTrend
Does the fashion watch belong in your window?
By Sarah B. H ood
N
ot so long ago, a wristwatch was simply a timepiece. Now, since whereas Kenneth Cole signifies more of a men’s brand with the suit
people tell time with laptops, phones, even keychains, the watch and tie.”
has taken on new roles: wearable art, accessory, status symbol
and fashion statement. The fashion watch, in this context, has become However, Doobay points out, “over the past five years, the watch
an important segment of the industry. industry overall has been paying more attention to the design world in
terms of colours, materials and overall aesthetic as they relate to apparel
“Everyone has a Blackberry or an iPhone; technology has replaced the trends. Watches are becoming more and more a personal purchase that
need to carry a watch to tell time,” says Taryn Doobay, national brand makes a statement about who you are. Most watches are more or less
manager for Rado watches in Canada, “but it hasn’t eliminated people’s tied to fashion.”
desire to express themselves by putting something on their wrists.”
Although fashion watches are priced under $1,000, with most in the
Mark Friedman, brand manager for Alliance Watch Group, takes the $200-$700 range, the term is not strictly defined by price point, says
common view that a fashion watch is “any watch brand that is not just Steve Levy, CEO of Ottimo Creations. “We started Ottimo to distribute
a company that makes watches.” For example, he names Kenneth Cole, Fendi watches; I guess you would say that Fendi is a fashion brand,”
Dolce & Gabbana and Christian Autiger, designer of the Ed Hardy line, he says. “But fashion could go to any price. Fendi just came out with
among the fashion watch lines that Alliance Watch Group works with. a new watch that changes the colour of the stones: diamonds, rubies,
“If you look at their watches, you see that they really replicate their sapphires, and so on, so if your dress goes with sapphires, you turn the
clothing brands,” he says. “The D&G [watches] are flashy and chic, crown and the 12 numbers show up as sapphires.”

productfocus
“fashion
we’ve got to be really careful not to define
watches as strictly inexpensive watches,
but on balance these are going to tend to be less
expensive watches.
”
TW Steel CEO
Collection. 50mm rose
gold plated case with
black dial and black
leather strap, $795.
Levy also distinguishes a separate category, the lifestyle watch, a name Since the fashion watch customer will typically buy more than one
he uses to describe Ottimo’s TW Steel brand. “It’s not a fashion watch watch, “it’s probably getting to where they are going to have a watch
in that it’s not something you would wear to match your clothing,” he wardrobe,” says Doobay. “In Europe, that’s certainly the case, and I
says. Instead, the brand (priced from $250 to $1,000) is aligned with a think we’re moving towards that in North America.”
contemporary masculine lifestyle. There are promotional tie-ins with
basketball, hockey and football; TW Steel is also the official timing “Somebody who’s not in the watch business may ask: how much volume
partner of the Renault F1 team. can you do?” says Friedman. “The truth is, when it comes to fashion
items, every year there’s something new.”
Stephen Taylor, president of Bulova Canada, sees fashion watches from
a somewhat different point of view: “the perspective is that fashion is Taylor cautions that “we’ve got to be really careful not to define fashion
not so much a product category as a consumer segment,” he says. Based watches as strictly inexpensive watches, but on balance these are going to
on the company’s own research, which is shared with customers, Taylor tend to be less expensive watches. The other thing to bear in mind is that
identifies 10 specific segments of buyers of watches over $150, of which this category represents less than 10 per cent of total watch spending.
one is defined as being “specifically interested in a watch purchase as a More purchases are going to be made in a fashion environment as
fashion accessory.” opposed to a jewellery store. Depending what segment you’re in, I
wouldn’t suggest that more than 10 per cent of total space be given over
In this segment of the market, buyers typically “view the watch as a to the fashion category.”
fashion accessory rather than as an extension of their personalities,” he
says. The group spans all ages, but it is 85 per cent female. They will buy The strength of this categoryis evidenced by the success of the
watches on impulse and wear a different watch for different occasions. Edmonton-based company Watch It! Launched in November 1999 by
“Because they do, they will own many watches, and the price point tends entrepreneur Darren Bondar, Watch It! carries a wide range of brands –
to be less,” Taylor adds. “Diamonds tend to comprise a smaller portion not exclusively fashion watches. The company now has 21 outlets across
of the watches; crystals make up a bigger portion of the category, and the the country, of which 15 are franchises. “Our primary customers are in
majority of these watches are non-Swiss made.” the 18-to-25-year-old demographic,” says Bondar.

cjJuneJuly10_SanghaviDiamonds_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:14:57 PM

productfocus
But does the fashion watch belong in a jewellery store? Bondar thinks
not. “Do you want a $150 fashion watch in a store that is also selling
diamonds? It doesn’t necessarily mix,” he says.
However, Friedman points out that the same customer who buys
expensive jewellery might also be interested in designer-name watches
at lower price points if they match her look: “a lot of the customers
don’t necessarily want a high quality watch, but something that looks
very nice. A lot of the jewellery stores are not selling the high-end
watch, but are selling the $200 to $600 watches,” he says. “The key
with the fashion names is that the customers like to look for the names
they’re familiar with. And these customers want to buy things for their
friends, gifts for their children; they don’t always want to buy a $3,000
gift.”
A line like Rado, which is the $3,000 to $6,000 segment within the
Swatch group, caters to the desire for style, but at a higher price point
than the standard fashion watch. “We typically are surrounded in
showcases by the traditional watch – TAG Heuer, Cartier, Baume &
Mercier – but we tend to have more success when we’re grouped with
Dior and Chanel, which are in the $5,000 range,” says Doobay. She
observes that lines like Michael Kors, in the under-$1,000 category, do
well in the same environment.
Bulova Canada offers a variety of lines that can be defined as fashion

watches. “Caravel, which is our lowest priced brand, fits in that
$99 to $250 price range,” says Bulova’s vice-president of sales, Jay (top left) Ladies Automatic, BVA-Series 130, 44
Diamonds, $850; (top right) Ladies Automatic,
Cameron. “Some of the Caravel creep up to the $200 price point with
BVA-Series 140, 44 Diamonds, $895; (bottom) Ladies
diamonds.” Automatic, BVA-Series 135, Skeleton Dial with 24
Diamonds, $750. All Bulova.
“Importantly, 25 per cent of what we put into the Caravel category is
specifically targeted to this fashion consumer,” says Bulova president
Stephen Taylor. Watch Advertisers in this issue
Blue Point Jewellery
The Bulova brand, at $150 to $750, targets “a more sophisticated t: 416.866.7402
consumer,” says Cameron. “These people are looking for something Bulova
traditional, but fashionable enough that it stands out across the table.” t: 416.751.7151
At $125 to $400, the Harley Davidson brand appeals to the well heeled w: www.bulova.com
man. “These are pretty affluent, well-educated consumers,” he says. “If Butterfly Gem Collection
men are looking at a fashion brand, this is one that really fits.” t: 418.660.2909
w: www.bfly.ca
Bulova is also launching a new collection this summer called Cool Stuff Imports
Adventurer, which targets the younger consumer, in the $250 to $450 t: 416.409.3855
range. “I wouldn’t say they would fall into the traditional definition of
Ottimo Creations
fashion watch, but they would appeal to the demographic because of t: 514.332.0301
the price point,” says Cameron. w: www.ottimocreations.com
Stuller
Should fine jewellery stores carry fashion watches? “It comes down to t: 337.262.7700
how comfortable an owner feels in being able to carry a line,” concludes w: www.stuller.com
Doobay.

DESIGNED TO INTRIGUE
The Adventurer Collection targets a younger consumer
who demands design and style at a lower price point.
Aimed at a global audience, the Swiss-designed
Adventurer Collection is priced between $250 and $450
and consists of 8 men’s and 6 ladies’ styles, each
reflecting the adventurous spirit and heritage of the
Bulova brand. Available July 2010.
Since
1875
Style: 96B137
$350 msrp
DESIGNED TO BE NOTICED
www.bulova.com
cjJunJul10_FCD_Bulova_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:43:11 PM

Flying High
Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but birthstones, the focus of the
Butterfly Gem Collection, and their Bfly brand, are slowly leading the pack.
BY STEPHANIE BONOTTO
B
FLY does several things well when it comes marketing; among
them, the company sticks with what it knows: a defined market
demographic and the patented butterfly cut specialization they
developed.
President Stephane Lavoie has an educational background in physical

chemistry and marketing and many of his family members are in the
jewellery business. Alongside his uncle, Guy Couture (custom jeweller
for the family’s retail outlet) the extended family owns and operates two
jewellery stores in the heart of Quebec City. Couture is the man who
brought the revolutionary butterfly cut to their business in 2000. As
retail customers provided continued positive feedback, the popularity of
the cut grew, and Lavoie, his cousin and Couture developed an entire line
based on it with a specific demographic in mind. The original butterfly
cut stone ranged from $300 to more than $1,000 because they all had to
be hand-cut, but the team found that if they were able to mass produce
the butterfly cut, the associated costs would inevitably go down.
By September 2005, the team founded Bfly, which started out with
birthstone-related jewellery and has grown to include necklaces,
earrings and rings that target girls in two age groups: zero-to-five and
five-to-twelve. The butterfly is a perfect symbol for young girls because
it stands for life, growth and transformation. The concept has become
widely popular, as expected, among the younger set, and as gift items for
special occasions. Stephane Lavoie
066-067.CJ_Company.indd 74 5/7/10 10:24:49 AM

companyprofile
Bfly manages more than 800 accounts across Canada, and is currently
concentrating on expanding into a worldwide business, including
the European market that began operation in April with plans to
reach Asia soon in the works. In addition, there are more than 200
customers already established in the U.S. To reach market demand,
the company has 20 sales representatives that travel throughout the
continent visiting retail stories for that added sales service element.
Lavoie is confident that there is a huge potential for Bfly to grow and
expand. In fact, it recently inked a deal with Inverness Corporation,
a leading ear piercing company based in Massachusetts. Inverness
will be launching the Bfly line of butterfly cut gems for its earrings
in several different countries, including the U.S. This move opens up
opportunities for Bfly to expand beyond its existing distributors. Blfy
is now the exclusive distributor of Inverness for the jewellery industry
in Canada and the U.S., carrying both the new Bfly ear piercing
collection and other Inverness products. The strategy behind the Bfly
ear piercing program is quite clever and simple. It is not only the fact
that the majority of young girls will have their ears pierced, but also
that the jewellers who offer this service with the Bfly concept will sell
much more of the other Bfly products as well.
Pink acrylic BFLY display for the kids collection is only one of the artful
The whole Couture-Lavoie family is involved in the operations of the displays used for the BFLY retailer’s marketing strategy.
two retail stores and is also actively involved in Bfly. This not only
includes jewellery and sales departments, but those in key roles such
as accounting and financing. Lavoie believes part of the success of
their business is based on the fact that it is a private, family-operated
company: “we want to keep it owned by our family. The family aspect
is very important to us.”
As with everything, they anticipate it will have its advantages and

disadvantages. Having grown up in and around the jewellery business,
Lavoie believes he was that much more prepared to take on the industry
himself. He knew from an early age that he wanted to work in the
jewellery business because it was something he was passionate about
and already familiar with.
Bfly’s two lines are slightly different in terms of the types of product.
The kids’ line was started in February 2007 and consists of pendants,
earrings and rings using the birthstone concept. One of Bfly’s main
objectives is to use birthstones throughout the line. In 2008, it added
huggies and bracelet collections, and, in 2009, the brand launched a
line of watches (one colour per month) and silver accessories for the
girls’ line. The dial of the watch contains the signature butterfly with
four small birthstones on the wings. The girls’ line also consists of
small charms that can be attached to the watch, again following the
birthstone theme. In addition to the watches and charms, the Bfly line
for girls offers birthstone earrings that can be purchased in silver or BFLY silver earrings with rhodium plated featuring the exclusive and
white gold. patented Inverness safety backs. Part of the new BFLY silver collection.
066-067.CJ_Company.indd 75 5/7/10 10:25:00 AM

companyprofile
“ofWe want everybody to know that when you talk about kids’ jewellery, it’s Bfly… There are a lot
interesting things to come. Our plan is to launch one or two new collections every year.
”
Lavoie will introduce a silver collection for the kids’ line at this year’s
JCK Las Vegas show in June. The reason for the launch is simple: a
high demand for low-cost items. The line currently consists of 10k
gold, as well as 14k and 18k yellow and white gold pieces. Success in
the jewellery industry can be hard to come by, mostly because there is
so much competition. Lavoie believes the key to his company’s success
is the focus on his unique cut. “Our success started with the stone, but
the business became about developing the concept of the Bfly brand.
The collection comes from something that is easy to sell to customers
because it is recreational and affordable.” The company made sure all of
the promotion was aimed at building the Bfly brand. They developed all
of the displays, catalogs and advertising in a way that would make Bfly
the focus of their work.
Bfly’s goal is to target independent and small chain stores the old
fashioned way. And although many businesses are adapting to the
advancements in technology and offer their products directly to
customers via online purchases, Lavoie has no intention of doing this
in the short term. While he understands that many businesses thrive BFLY birthstone Girls watch is an ideal gift for
on online sales, he prefers the more personal approach of selling to ages five and over. Stainless steel back, water
independent retailers so his product line will appear in their stores. resistant, genuine leather straps.
To ensure that Bfly is always adapting to changes, Lavoie has begun to

branch out from just jewellery. Currently, he is developing sunglasses
with small stones on the side (in keeping with the birthstone theme),
as well as hair accessories and even clothing. The idea behind the new
developments is the same as it’s always been: going back to nature,
butterflies and change. Lavoie has plans to make the brand a leading
company with a complete collection of products for young girls. He
believes that launching a clothing and accessory line will also help to
increase demand for the jewellery and watches and he is careful to note
that most companies start with accessories and clothing before making
their way to jewellery. Doing the reverse likely works to Bfly’s benefit
because they already have an established consumer base, and turning
their attention to fashion and accessories is a seamless step.
The ultimate goal? Making the brand a household name. “We want
everybody to know that when you talk about kids’ jewellery, it’s Bfly.
And while we would consider doing a teen or adult line, right now the
focus is on kids. There are a lot of interesting things to come. Our plan is
to launch one or two new collections every year.” [CJ] Regular Inverness ear piercing product featuring the pink flowers.
074-076.CJ_Company.indd 76 5/7/10 12:15:27 PM

designfeature
Lights, Camera, Action,

Jewellery! P hoto-realistic rendering programs such as V-Ray, Maxwell and
Brazil plug in to jewellery CAD applications to create digital
images, allowing jewellery designs to be presented to prospective
customers without having to invest in costly new inventory or expensive
In today’s competitive sales photography.
environment, many jewellers are The artisan can assign metals such as silver, gold or platinum, as well as
finding that CAD/CAM technology, diamonds and gemstones to the CAD model. Natural lighting, soft shadows,
depth of field, reflection, refraction and dispersion are mathematically
in addition to redefining the custom- calculated by the software and applied to the rendering scene.
design process, can become a highly William Elkins, president of Niche Jewelry Inc., Olathe, KS, started
out using ArtCAM Jewelsmith, a program that focuses on design
effective sales and marketing tool. and production rather than photo-realistic rendering. He found
he constantly had to explain that the renderings from ArtCAM were
meant to be basic visual representations of the design and not how the
By Jesse K aufman
finished piece would look.
069-071.CJ_CadCam_re.indd 77 5/7/10 5:06:57 PM

So he added Matrix to his CAD toolbox, which included a version of usually seals the deal. I keep an album of renderings on the counter.
V-ray customized for jewellery rendering. Most people pick it up and say ‘Wow these are great photos.’ Then I
explain what they are. I’ve sold custom to more people who would have
“I like the fact that I can show a customer a design without putting the never considered it before, but after seeing renderings, get really excited
money into making it,” says Elkins. “I think you can take a digital library and commissioned a piece.”
too far, but I for one love the fact that I don’t have to spend a fortune
in finished goods. For the record, I like a good jewellery pamphlet Rebecca Walker of Walker Ventures Inc., West Chester, OH, recently
and catalog as well. The only people who think you are going cheap started using Maxwell to show her designs. She explains her reasoning:
with a digital library are the ones who are doing CAD/CAM already. “Jane Q. Public, who knows nothing of renders, thinks they are just great
Customers see the wow factor. And having done designs for clients with photos, and it creates a must-have feeling for that really cool ring. Sort
both ArtCAM, and now Matrix, I get comments like, ‘Wow, technology of like having the print catalog of a new car, showing great photos of the
has come a long way since the last time we had a ring made,’ and details, making you want it that much more. The one on the lot doesn’t
‘I wish the last model you did for us looked like this, I would have been look as shiny and perfect, but the print ad has done it’s job. The customer
much more willing to add the band or order the matching earrings.’ is physically present and ready to buy.”
I used to worry about setting the bar too high in terms of expectations,
but my experience in the last year has been the opposite. More people Cary James of Contact, located in Gravenhurst, ON, is also a strong
have told me that the ring looks even better than the computer model proponent of Maxwell Render. As a jeweller with some photography
than they did when I was using ArtCAM, and my clients have been experience, he found the workflow in Maxwell to be rather intuitive.
overwhelmingly more excited about the design process.”
“Once I discovered Maxwell Render I never looked back,” he says.
Jewellers who don’t like CAD renderings remind me of the people who “Learning and working with Maxwell Render is intuitive because it
used to say, ‘why do I need a laser? I can just pull the stones and solder it is rooted in a solid foundation that parallels the real world. It is great,
like I have been doing for years.’ I agree with them; you certainly don’t for example, to be able to set the camera lens length, f-stop, ISO and
need a laser, nor do you need photo-realistic rendering, but both are shutter speed as one would on a photographic camera. It is instinctive
excellent tools.” to use principles of physics intrinsic to gemmology to create new gem
materials that react with light just as they do in the real world, simply
Bert Edmonston IV, of Gold Thumb Jewelry Creations in Frederick, MD, by using a gemstone’s refractive index and dispersion. It is brilliant
is also a fan of realistic renderings. “I’m not working with people from to be able to apply metalsmithing principles to alloy different metal
the trade, where you do what’s asked and nothing more,” he says. “Retail materials to simulate different karats and colours of gold and other
requires you go above and beyond. A great photo-realistic rendering precious metals.

designfeature
“I use Maxwell Render as an integral part of my consultation and design

process, both for clients close to home and clients who live thousands
of kilometres away. Maxwell Render has enhanced efficiency and
effectiveness in my design and consultation process. As an example,
having high-quality rendered virtual prototypes has eliminated the need
for clients to view physical prototypes prior to the finished product. This
eliminates an arduous and costly step in the process of custom product
and jewellery design, including product cost and time-to-completion
cost. It also eliminates any risk to physical prototypes in the shipping
and handling process.”
While James acknowledges that the learning curve can appear steep
and daunting, he believes the benefits far exceed the effort. “With the
combination of resources available it is not only possible to achieve
great results, it is almost a given. The photographic, real-world quality
that is achievable is superb. My experience has been extremely positive
and even slightly addictive. I am filled with anticipation every time I
press Render.”
As rendering programs continue to evolve and become easier and

faster to use, more and more jewellers are entering the digital age to
offer renderings as a sales, marketing and perhaps more importantly,
a communication tool. It allows them to connect with their customers
in a personal way that was not possible before, thereby significantly
increasing their custom design business.
As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, and when the image
is a stunningly beautiful photo-realistic CAD jewellery design, it speaks
volumes! [CJ]

cjJuneJuly10_Noble_dpsAd.indd 3 5/5/10 4:15:19 PM
cjJuneJuly10_Noble_dpsAd.indd 4 5/5/10 4:15:22 PM
In Tune
Canadian Designer Dandi Maestre takes nature as inspiration.
B y Bonnie Siegler
T
he story of Dandi Maestre begins on the shores of Colombia nature as her inspiration, Dandi still explores but now it’s the organic
where as a little girl, she learned to love and respect nature on her shapes and elements found in nature, such as driftwood, coconuts, bull
family’s cattle farms. Vacations were spent exploring the Sierra horns, natural fibres, seeds, bone and rough emeralds. She says that
Nevada de Santa Marta mountains and its hidden shores and rivers. through her work, she has created a dialogue with the natural world.
“I remember my father bringing home a huge tree trunk from a fallen Her designs reveal a strong mix of native and urban cultures. Ultimately,
tree on our farm and a beautiful dining table was made out of it – this Maestre aims to elevate organic elements and bring them to a new level of
was 35 years ago,” says Maestre. The graduate of New York’s prestigious sophistication in what she describes as “the Japanese design philosophy
School of Visual Arts now makes her home in Toronto with her husband called wabi-sabi, which nurtures all that is authentic by acknowledging
and two children, borrowing many of her childhood influences and three simple realities: nothing lasts, nothing is finished and nothing is
incorporating them into works of art in her jewellery designs. Taking perfect.”
Changing horn necklace: Long open

circles necklace. $750
078-080.CJ_Designer_re.indd 82 5/7/10 10:36:56 AM

designerprofile
Canadian Jeweller (CJ): Describe some of your first designs?
Dandi Maestre (DM): I began exploring the use of reclaimed bull horns and I made
small necklaces with cut horn disks. As the pieces evolved, they became really bold,
and I just kept adding on larger scale pieces and intermixing with other natural
materials such as shells, antler, wood and amber.
CJ: You create jewellery that reflects your passion for organic elements. How has
this passion developed, and why is it important to you?
DM: I have been naturally drawn to organic materials. I was surrounded by horns on
my family’s cattle ranch, and my family also collected art, so I grew up surrounded
by beautiful, everyday pieces and lots of natural crafts. I began designing for myself
because I could not find jewellery I felt comfortable wearing. I am continually
experimenting with new materials and using what nature has to offer in its raw form
and creating my own compositions through design. Design is what is important,
though.
CJ: What specific elements of nature do you incorporate into your designs?
DM: Most of them have natural horn as a rotating element, to which I add a variety
of sustainable elements. It can be simple shells, tagua nuts, driftwood, shed antler,
bone, exotic seeds, even recycled beads made of paper.
CJ: How do you hope your jewellery will create a dialogue between people and
those who appreciate sustainable living and the natural world?
DM: I think that people who admire nature and have a love for being in contact
with what the Earth has to offer are drawn to wearing my pieces. There is a
special energy emanating from each individual. And there is also an energy in
everything natural. So it’s like a magnet effect when clients find the pieces meant
for them.
CJ: How do you bring colour such as the rough emeralds into your pieces?
DM: Recently, I have begun admiring stones, such as emerald, turquoise, pearl
and jade. I like when they are a little irregular, and somehow they all blend in
with the other materials, the common bond being nature again. Driftwood is
very beach-y and lightweight so it’s fun to use for a simple necklace or just a
large shaped piece on a key ring. I love rich colours in shells and stones. I also
use natural dyes, most recently for my tagua nut rings, which come in every tone
of the rainbow. When creating the jade necklaces this spring, I was inspired by
the vibrant colours of tropical fruit. It all depends on what I see.
CJ: I understand you love to travel. Where have you been and how have your
designs – and you personally – been influenced by your travels?
DM: Traveling is a form of visual education. You never know what you will see
and how it will inspire and that is what’s exciting. Last summer I was in Panama
and just walking along the beach, seeing the locals embrace what they have
so beautifully – that’s what I love. The way they are carefree when mixing all
colours. Nothing is too planned but it all just flows when all worn together. I feel
all my pieces can be worn together too.

designerprofile
“each
Imperfection is intentional. I design art pieces, each unique and
with a special energy.
”
CJ: What metals do you work with mainly?
DM: I use silver mostly. I have yet to play with more metals. We’ll see.
CJ: How have your designs mixed native and urban cultures?
DM: I don’t make a conscious decision to mix them. It’s a way of looking
at things. I like a certain modern design, probably this comes from my
graphic design background. I also like my pieces to be versatile in the
way pieces can be worn, so they will adapt and change depending on who
is wearing them. So perhaps the design is more urban, but the materials
are inspired by what different cultures have used for centuries.
CJ: Your designs have been featured in various fashion magazines.

What celebrities have worn your designs?
DM: Most recently, Vanessa Williams was photographed wearing a bold

ring made from bone. It was featured in Oprah Magazine, celebrating
women of style. She looked beautiful!
CJ: Do you see an emphasis on any certain design that calls out “fashion
trend” for this year?
DM: Fashion is very unpredictable; it changes too fast, so I don’t pay too
much attention. I just do what I love. It turns out that this year there is a
lot of talk about tribal influences, strong statement necklaces, the return
of natural elements. So it’s good timing for me.
CJ: What are you working on for your next collection?
DM: I am enjoying working with pearls right now. Tomorrow, I might

try metal. I don’t know. I don’t plan too much; it just kind of happens.
Every day is something new and fun that way
CJ: Which brings us to the wabi-sabi philosophy of your creativity. So

which designs are not perfect, which are unfinished and which would
you wish could last forever?
Magical Charms: Various organic
materials (horn, seeds, antler) charms on
DM: All of them! Imperfection is intentional. I design art pieces, each
leather. $350
unique and each with a special energy.

a new JCK experienCe at
mandal ay bay
showc asing our passion for jewelry

J u n e 3 – 6 , 2 0 11 • M a n d a l a y B a y H o t e l a n d C o n v e n t i o n C e n t e r
w w w . J C k 2 0 11 . C o M
cjJuneJuly10_ReedEx_Ad.indd 1 5/10/10 9:28:35 AM

Limit
starwatch
Sky’s The
The slow economy has no bearing when it comes to celebrities and
their designer jewellery. Choices run the gamut from platinum and
gold to pearls and onyx to glittering diamonds.
BY BONNIE SIEGLER
Taylor Swift is making the rounds as both Hollywood and

Country’s “It” girl. At the recent Country Music Awards this
month she was decked out in Neil Lane jewels – a 25 carat
Debra Messing
diamond and platinum bracelet (US$150,000) and to-die for
diamond and platinum drop earrings (US$175,000).
Debra Messing looked like a true hero at

the Hollywood Hero Awards wearing Yvel’s
rhodolite and yellow gold ring on her slender
Taylor Swift
fingers. The ring retails for US$4,780.
The Book of Eli co-star Mila Kunis selected a pair of Neil

Lane platinum, black onyx and diamond earrings, with
4 carats in each ear (US$22,000), and a matching platinum
bracelet with diamonds and onyx for the Los Angeles premiere.
The combination of platinum, diamonds and onyx complimented
her long, brunette hair and beautiful complexion.
Mila Kunis
086.CJ_StarWatch_re.indd 86 5/7/10 9:49:45 AM

À l’avant-garde
depuis
4 ans
Leading the way
22 au 24 août 2010
August 22 to 24, 2010
for
4 years
Palais des Congrès Montréal
Montreal Convention Center
POUR PLUS D’INFORMATION | FOR FURTHER INFORMATION

868, rue Brissette, Sainte-Julie (Québec) J3E 2B1 À votre service depuis près de 60 ans !
Tél. : 514 485-3333 • Fax : 450 649-8984 • info@cbq.qc.ca • www.cbq.qc.ca Serving you for nearly 60 years.
CBQ_PUB_CJ_BIL.indd 1 23/03/10 1:03 PM

cjJuneJuly10_CBQ_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:11:44 PM
what’son
upcoming events
Every effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to conﬁrm.
If you would like dates added, please contact paul@rivegauchemedia.com
June | international Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Mode Accessories Show Montreal Gift Show
Luxury & Premiere by JCK June 24 - 27 August 8 - 10 August 22 - 25
June 1 - 3 Hong Kong Convention Doubletree International Place Bonaventure
The Venetian Resort Hotel Casino and Exhibition Centre Plaza Hotel Montreal, Quebec
Las Vegas, Nevada Hong Kong, China Toronto, Ontario 416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469
203-840-5684 or 1-800-257-3626 +852 2516 2158 416-510-0114 biancakennedy@ca.dmgworld
inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com visitjgf-hk@ubm.com achee@mode-accessories.com media.com
www.luxurybyjck.com exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com www.mode-accessories.com www.montrealgiftshow.com
by invitation only
july | international CGTA Gift Show september | canada
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry Jovella August 8 - 12 Eclat De Mode
& Watch Show July 6 - 7 International Centre and Toronto September 3 - 6
June 3 - 6 Convention Center Congress Centre Paris Porte de Versailles
MGM Grand Hotel and Casino Tel Aviv, Israel Mississauga and Toronto, Ontario Paris, France
Las Vegas, Nevada +972 562 6090 416-679-0170 or 1-800-611-6100 33 0 1 47 56 52 82
239-732-6642 etty.s@shier.co.il info@cgta.org info@bijorhca.com
andreacanady@dmgworld www.stier-group.com www.cgta.org www.bijorhca.com
media.com
www.dmgantiquesshows.com Malaysia International Western Canadian Jewellery Expo International Jewellery London
Jewellery Fair August 13 - 15 September 5 - 8
Swiss Watch by JCK July 8 - 11 Shaw Convention Centre Earls Court 2
June 3 - 7 Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre Edmonton, Alberta London, England
The Venetian Resort Hotel Casino Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 780-445-4991 +44 0 20 8271 2144
Las Vegas, Nevada +6 03 9058 8772 ulliaclt@shaw.ca syreeta.tranfield@reedexpo.co.uk
203-840-4800 exhibition@elite.com.my www.wcjexpo.com www.jewellerylondon.com
inquiry@reedexpo.com www.elite.com.my
www.jckshows.com Alberta Gift Show Mode Accessories Fall II Edition
by appointment only JA New York Summer Show August 15 - 18 September 26 - 27
July 25 - 28 Edmonton Expo Centre, International Centre
JCK Las Vegas Javits Center Northlands Mississauga, Ontario
June 4 - 7 New York, New York Edmonton, Alberta 416-510-0114
Sands Expo Convention Center 508-743-8506 416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469 twoplusone@mode-accessories.com
and The Venetian Resort ja@xpressreg.net www.albertagiftshow.com www.mode-accessories.com
Hotel Casino www.ja-newyork.com
Las Vegas, Nevada Expo Prestige october | canada
203-840-5684 or 1-800-257-3626 august | canada August 22 - 24 Fraser Valley Bead
inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com JCK Toronto Palais des Congrès & Jewellery Show
www.jcklasvegasshow.com August 8 - 10 Montreal, Quebec October 22 - 24
Metro Toronto Convention Centre 514-485-3333 Cascades Casino
China International Gold, Toronto, Ontario info@cbq.qc.ca Convention Centre
Jewellery & Gem Fair 203-840-5684 or 1-800-257-3626 www.cbq.qc.ca Langley, British Columbia
June 17 - 20 inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com fvbeadshow@gmail.com
Guangzhou Jinhan www.jcktoronto.ca www.fraservalleybeadshow.ca
Exhibition Centre
Guangzhou, China
visiting@jewellerynetasia.com
www.jewellerynetasia.com
088.CJ_WhatsOn.indd 88 5/7/10 9:46:40 AM

showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
- POS computer
COMPLETE JEWELLERY POS SYSTEM - 17” LCD monitor
$3,975
- Receipt printer
- Cash drawer
- Laser scanner
* Track commissions, special orders & layaways - Software & training
- Label printer
* Integrate with QuickBooks & Simply Accounting
* Barcoding, labelling & inventory control
* Built in credit/ debit processing
* Print repair bags & labels for jewellery
* Create your own gift cards
Includes a barcode label

printer for jewellery labels & tags
1-888-810-9395
Advanced Computing Edge Ltd. aceretail.com
• GOLD J.W.• PALLADIUM

Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1
• YELLOW • PLATINUM
• WHITE • SILVADIUM
• PINK • S-STEEL ALLOYCO
• GREEN • PRESET INTERNATIONAL INC
• STERLING • MOLDS
• BRONZE • ALLOYS
CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384

Phone: 514-845-5384 • alloyco@alloyco.com • www.alloyco.com
55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6
renata
Here are some of our everyday prices:
321 battery................................. .37¢ 379 battery................................. .31¢ pure beauty

357 battery................................. .91¢ 379 BT ....................................... .27¢ has a name...
364 battery................................. .25¢ 394 battery................................. .43¢
364 BT ....................................... .22¢ 395 battery ................................ .31¢
371 battery................................. .31¢ CR 2016 .................................... .32¢
377 battery................................. .25¢ CR 2025 .................................... .32¢
377 BT ....................................... .22¢ CR 2032 .................................... .32¢ Exclusively available in Canada through
J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.
Vancouver, B.C.
AUTHORIZED RENATA SWISS/SWATCH GROUP DISTRIBUTOR FOR CANADA
SERVING WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELLERS FOR 75 YEARS
1-800-663-1458
Online inventory
ALPHA JEWELLERS SUPPLIES INC
1255 Phillips Square, Ste 507, Montreal, QC, H3B 3G1, Canada www.jwdiamonds.ca
Tel: (514) 845-4252 Toll Free: (877) 845-4252 Fax: (514) 845-8707 Toll Free Fax: (877) 888-8707
alphajewlrs@bellnet.ca All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certiﬁed for accurate grading.
xxx-xxx.CJ_Showcase-Market_June.indd 89 5/10/10 11:53:36 AM

showcase
Your Headquarters For All Rolex

Aftermarket Accessories
00
27
We Also Stock t$
5c
1.8
Date, Mid-size, 8K
To
51 ne
And No Date 51 To
RM
PD
RL wo
p
Diamond 0T
PD
0
$4
Qu
Bezels.
00
SS
K/
18
Fits Sub 18 e
KY
2 n
al
20
1 To
$2
& GMT J Tw
o
RL
85
iT
5
18KY - $325 42
0
$
y
SS - $100 SS
K/
18
•l
Inserts 02
5
HOT O3
$25
RM
RL
o
SELLER
J1
w
01
es
0
SS
MBDB5015 K/
SS
T
$1
18 ne
1.40CT - 18K
00
2 o
pr
1 00 o T
VS2-S11 J Tw
RM 75
LCDB5025
ic
$750 $5
1CT - 18K
e
VS2-S11
•o
$515
LCDB5050
v
1.50CT - 14K 5R
er
05
VS2-S11 O4 S
MCDB5020 RM K/S Gold
ni
MCDB5080 $735 18 se
1.30CT - 18K
gh
Ro 00
VS2-S11 3CT - 14K $6
T
$675 VS2-S11
De
Machine $1350
HOT LBDB5015
li
Set SELLER 1CT - 18K
ve
We Stock Many VS2-S11
ry
$550
Different Styles And
Sizes Of Aftermarket
MBDB5000
1CT - 18K
Watchbands, LCDB5070
VS2-S11 Including 2CT - 14K
VS2-S11
$560 SS, Two LDBD5005 $935
Tone, 14K
Machine .70CT - 18K
VS2-S11 F.S. Enterprise is Not
Set
And 18k All
Affiliated with Rolex
$415 Watch, U.S.A., Inc.
Rolex is a Registered
Gold Watchbands.
The Trendy Group Price based on
Trademark of Rolex,
$1000-$1100 Gold
905-326-5981 TrollbeadsCanada.com U.S.A., Inc.
sales@thetrendygroup.com F.S. ENTERPRISE

www.fsenterprise.com 888.699.8947
ETA SWISS, ISA SWISS, RONDA WATCH MOVEMENTS

Luxury Care Since 1895
CJTrollbeadsAd1*4Showcase.indd 1 04/05/10 11:37 AM
1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PM

Here are just a few of our everyday LOW prices on ETA, ISA and RONDA movements:
ETA G10.211 date 4.......... $36.95 each RONDA 515............................... $6.50
Cleaning & Caring for Precious Metals Silver Protection Strips ETA 901.001 .......................... $19.95 RONDA 585............................... $6.75
ETA 901.005 .......................... $15.95 RONDA 751 .............................. $8.95
Hagerty offers a wide variety of products ETA 805.124 ............................ $6.95 RONDA 751E .......................... $15.95
for cleaning and caring for silverware and ETA 579.005(SUB: 561.001)............ $26.95 RONDA 763 .............................. $3.50
other precious metals. ETA F06.11A........................... $14.95 RONDA 1032 .......................... $15.95
These silver protection strips neutralize
tarnish-causing gases inside enclosed
ISA 369 .................................... $6.95 Established 1935
ISA K63 .................................... $2.40
storage and display areas keeping polished ISA 8171.202 ........................ $19.95
silver and silver-plate shining for months. ISA 8171.220.......................... $21.95
ISA 1198.32 ............................. $6.75
Hagerty Distributors SERVING JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS ACROSS CANADA FOR 75 YEARS
H&W Perrin Burney Giftware
416-422-4600 416-736-9990 ALPHA JEWELLERS SUPPLIES INC
Reliable Watch Supplies Prestige Pak Habsons Jewellers Supply 1255 Phillips Square, Ste 507, Montreal, QC, H3B 3G1, Canada
514-866-1095 514-387-8888 604-708-9700 Tel: (514) 845-4252 Toll Free: (877) 845-4252 Fax: (514) 845-8707 Toll Free Fax: (877) 888-8707
alphajewlrs@bellnet.ca
xxx-xxx.CJ_Showcase-Market_June.indd 90 5/7/10 4:06:22 PM

showcase
CJ_June10_KWest:CJ_June10_KWest 4/29/10 10:32 AM Page 1
ADVERTISING & DESIGN � PHOTOGRAPHY

TRADE SHOW DISPLAYS � PRINTING
www.kwestmedia.com
info@kwestmedia.com
905 469 9378 � �
MCD Showcase:Layout 1 2/25/09 10:34 AM Page 1
MCD Pearl Imports

A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls
and pearl jewellery.
27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426
Email info@mcdpearls.com

showcase
SOLUTIONS
OUR SERVICES ARE YOUR
STORE CLOSING SALES • CONSOLIDATION SALES

RETIREMENT STRATEGIES • PROMOTIONAL EVENTS
BUY & SELL MERCHANDISE
New from Italy and Now in Canada
• Original Italian Design

• 19 Colours
• 3 Sizes. High Silicone Rubber
• Ultra Light (10 Grams)
• 3 Atm Water Resistance
For a Free & Confidential Consultation

Call Lawrence Skoworodko
Toll Free: 888-955-1069 • Local: 306-955-1069
Contact Official Canadian Distributor at (416) 409 3855 or email to info@plastichic.ca
303-165 3rd Ave South • Saskatoon, SK • S7K 1M3
JAPANESE AND CHINESE WATCH MOVEMENTS

Here are some of our everyday prices:
Myota 2035...................... $2.50 each Hattori VD57........................... $17.95
STEWART’S HOROLOGY
REPAIR & RESTORATION
Myota 2035 (dozen) ............ $2.20 each Hattori VX10 ............................. $5.45
Myota 0S10 ........................... $19.95 Hattori VX 43 ............................ $5.50 • QUALITY service & attention to detail
Myota 0S80............................ $27.95 Hattori VX51 ............................. $3.95 • 5 highly qualified technicians
Myota 6M12............................. $5.75 Hattori PC 21............................ $2.40 • Large inventory of parts & access to all major supply houses
• Repairs to fine watches, quartz & mechanical
Seiko 1N00 ............................ $14.95 CHINA DG2813........................ $13.95 • Restoration of pocket watches
Seiko 1N01 ............................ $17.95 CHINA ST6D3KS...................... $12.95
Seiko 7009 (automatic) ................ $45.95 (over 69 different chinese movements in stock)
1515 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3G 0W7, Canada
Lorus V810............................. $12.75
Lorus V811 ............................ $12.75
Established 1935 Tel: (204) 789-9620 Email: stewbnz1@mts.net
SERVING CANADIAN JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS FOR 75 YEARS

ALPHA JEWELLERS SUPPLIES INC
1255 Phillips Square, Ste 507, Montreal, QC, H3B 3G1, Canada
Tel: (514) 845-4252 Toll Free: (877) 845-4252 Fax: (514) 845-8707 Toll Free Fax: (877) 888-8707
alphajewlrs@bellnet.ca

showcase
IN JEWELLERY REPAIR
YOUR
NAME E N V E L O P E
LOWEST PRICES
1
DESIGN
N O I N
TO YOUR
OWN
WISHES C A N � A D A
ALL
PRINTING
1 - 800 661- 4410
STEPS F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9
INCLUDED s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m

marketplace
AB A.B. MACHINERY
PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30
LASER WELDERS
Plastic New & Used machinery and
equipment for jewellers
Injectors BUY - SELL - TRADE
New & Used
www.abmachinery.com
Tel: (514) 737-1660 Toll Free: (888) 901-8888
Fax: (514) 737-9335 Email: alex@abmachinery.com
Insurance for Customers Jewellery
Sam Salehi
President
cjFebMar10_CJB_Ad_rev.indd 1
Dynamic Gems Group Inc 1/29/10 3:14:36 PM
Wholesale Diamonds and Jewellery

27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6
Tel: (416) 777 0010 • (416) 306 0705
Fax: (416) 777 0021 • Cell: (416) 566 5579
Email: ssalehi@cogeco.ca
Edmonton Findings House Ltd.

Watch and Jewelery Supplies
Clock and Watch Movements
All Kinds of Batteries & Watch Crystals
Dynamic Gems.indd 1 2/8/10 11:36:00 AM
Wax Patterns, Gem Stones, & Findings
Packaging, Bags, Boxes & Displays
Ph: (780) 452-8693
10524 - 124 St.
Fax: (780) 452-8693
Edmonton, Alberta
Website: www.efjewelrysupply.com
Canada T5N 1R9
Email: efhouse@hotmail.com
EdmontonFindings.indd 1 7/16/09 11:45:31 AM

marketplace
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD. Lacy & Company Ltd. Established 1927
PRECIOUS METALS DEALER
ASSAYING • REFINING • Quality tools for Quality Results ~ The Complete Jewellers Supply House
• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES Agent for Neutec Laser Welders ~ Casting Systems, Umarq Engravers, Durston,
Elma, European Hand Tools, Busch Burs, Castaldo, Kerr, Foredom, Grobet USA
• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE Ask about the Jewellers Advantage !
IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE 416-365-1375 1-800-387-4466 sales@ lacytools.ca
LET US EARN YOUR TRUST 55 QUEEN STREET, EAST, TORONTO, ONTARIO
Web: www.xau.ca MONDAY - FRIDAY 9:00 AM TO 5:30 PM

WALK-IN SHOWROOM
Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111
21 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email: Shop On-Line www.lacytools.ca
info@xau.ca
Perrin ad:Layout 1 3/23/09 7:00 PM Page 1
LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
• Cutters of Rough Diamonds

• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes
• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds
21 Dundas Square, Suite 805

Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883
email: lala.diamond@hotmail.com
GOLD DEPOT
PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN, IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM
Available for Immediate Delivery

All Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined
Call our Hotline for Prices: 416-366-GOLD (4653)

Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 • Fax: 416-366-3499
27 Queen Street East, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario
H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd

Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials
PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a
deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers
We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.
A long standing tradition of service since 1929.
If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!
PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117
FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139
� sales@perrin.on.ca

marketplace
ALL UNDER
What’s new and coming soon
at Mary Jewellery?
ONE ROOF
The Diamonds You Need.
In Stock. Overnight.
IMPERIAL
We carry finely cut diamonds ranging

COLL N
ECTIO from .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of
shapes including round brilliant,
princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart,
pear, marquise and oval.
ROYAL CHAIN
YRAM Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.
Krohn
Industries, Inc. Selection, Service and Value
Keep an eye on our website
Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Cohler Enterprises, Inc.
a family tradition since 1955
for more information
www.wmolldiamonds.com
Phone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738
21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Refine-All Metals Ltd. WIZMAN GEMS

Refining - Assaying - Trading
Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap
INTERNATIONAL LIMITED
Check for our refining specials and on line prices Diamond Importers
At: www.refinegold.ca Celebrating 26 years of Excellence
and www.goldrefiner.ca From .002ct - 5.00ct Certified
Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine www.wizmangems.com
Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371 Tel: (416) 360-8828 Fax: (416) 360-3708
359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9 Email: wizeone23@yahoo.com
27 Queen St. E, Suite 1403, Toronto, ON M5C 2M6, Canada
Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com
GBA marketing class.:Layout 1 3/24/09 2:35 PM Page 1

classified
OWN YOUR OWN
RECESSION RESISTANT SALES REPS REQUIRED JEWELLERY STORE FOR SALE
FRANCHISE! This successful and independent jewellery
Looking for sales rep. on the road, for line of
World’s Largest Jewellery watches, must have experience with jewellery. business has been in operation for over 30 years.
and Watch Repair The business is known for its wide selection of
Send your C.V. at: shivas@bellnet.ca or by fax
Franchise is Looking to high-quality jewellery lines, superior custom
at: 514-739-4812
CNC Gold Refining Inc
craftsmanship, honest and knowledgeable staff,
Expand in a Mall Near You. excellent reputation, and outstanding customer DISTRIBUTORS/SALES REP
Make money for yourself and service. The business offers a nice selection Importer of designer brand watches looking for
Dealers
take control of your future! and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap of high quality jewellery, custom design and distributors/sales reps. There are more than 200
While You Wait-Immediate Settlements

fabrication, jewellery repairs, buying gold and jewelers representing our lines across Canada and
• High Traffic Locations we are looking to expand our presence in Ontario,
recycling, appraisals and estate closings. The
B U Y I N G
• Extremely High Gross Margins
Costs Check our State of the art Jewellery Alloys
business occupies 1,000 square feet of leased BC and Alberta. Please contact Armando at info@
99
• Low9 9Inventory space that offers customers an inviting and fioriwatches.com
• 25 Year ProvenCheck
Record Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices relaxed atmosphere. Owner retiring. Contact
BROKEN/CHIPPED DIAMONDS
www.goldrefining.ca
• Full Training, No Exp Nec.
At: CENSOR – SINCE 1917
Judi Majkut at 306-551-2355 or email judi.
majkut@sunbeltnetwork.com or visit www.
Let Us (800)
EarnYour
359-0407 Confidence. Call us Before You Refine
WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY! 212-764-7130 IMMEDIATE PAYMENT! sunbeltsask.com for more information.
21 Dundas Sqaure, Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7

www.fastfix.com
Tel: 416-642 3600 Fax:416-642 3500 Toll Free: 877-465 3497
96 E-mail:info@goldrefining.ca
CJ J U N E / J U L Y 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a dWeb:
i a n j e wwww.goldrefining.ca
e l l e r. c o m

PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
sectionhead
97 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
2. Use this quick

BY FAX 1. See product you reference list 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
want info on below to find its number(s) on 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
OR MAIL free info number the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
(it’s also on the ad) info card as you like
CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Siffari 2 101 TW Steel 67 131
Plastichic 3 102 Bulova 73 132
Stuller 4-5 103 Crown Ring 75 133
Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. (JVC) 6 104 Sanghavi Diamonds 81 134
Peter Heim 7 105 Blue Point Jewellers 82 135
JSN Jewellery 8 106 Noble Gift Packaging 83 136
JSN Jewellery 9 107 JCK 87 137
Pandora 11 108 Polar Gems 89 138
Crown Ring 13 109 Jomark 99 139
Chamilia 15 110 Mirage Creations 100 140
World’s Gold 17 111 Trollbeads Jewellery 18 145
Atlantic Engraving 19 112 Jewelers Mutual Insurance 18 146
Malca-Amit 21 113 Stuller CounterSketch 18 147
Malca-Amit 23 114 Atlantic Engraving 18 148
Fendi 25 115 Jomark 20 149
The Trendy Group 27 116 Peter Heim 20 150
Butterfly Gem 29 117 GIA 20 151
Jewellers Mutual 31 118 Nova Diamonds 20 152
Bergeon 32 119 Pacific Urns 22 153
Rousseau Chain Imports 33 120 JSN Diamonds 22 154
MCD Pearls 33 121 Polar Gem 22 155
Pacific Urns 35 122 Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 22 156
O’Neill Diamonds 37 123 PlastiChic 24 157
Gemological Institue of America 39 124 Butterfly Gem 24 158
Karat Imports 41 125 Pandora 24 159
UBM Asia 43 126 Crown Ring 24 160
Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 45 127 Bulova 26 161
Toronto CGTA 47 128 Chamilia 26 162
Nova Diamonds 55 129 Siffari 26 163
*FREE
La Corporation Des Bijoutiers Du Quebec (CBQ) 63 130 Renault 26 164
Info Card & Subscription

To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.
 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine  No, don’t send
STEP 1 STEP 2 To qualify, check circles: Selling area of your store

 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
 under $500,000
 Retailer
Company Name: ___________________________________________________________  Manufacturer
 $500,000 - $1 million
 $1 million - $5 million
 Wholesaler
Address: _________________________________________________________________  $5 million - $10 million
 Importer
 $10 million - $20 million
 Designer
City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________  over $20 million
 Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)
Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________  Other: ________________________________ Categories you personally manage
 Retailer  Designer
Number of employees at your location
Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13  Gemologist  Supplier
 Manufacturer
Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________ Number of locations: ______________________  Other _________________________________
STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers

JUNE/JULY 2010
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE Example
DETAILED INFORMATION ON
USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

101
STEP 4
Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
081.CJ_FaxBack.indd 97 5/7/10 4:30:26 PM

lastword
French writer and philosopher Voltaire once said:
“ The world embarrasses me, and I cannot dream

”
that this watch exists and has no watchmaker.
Watches sometimes strike me as a relic of the past, having become merely an accessory in today’s tech-driven market. Yet when I see a modern timepiece like the
Classic Fusion Gold Ceramic by Hublot, I’m reminded watches are as relevant as ever before. With a Carbon fibre dial, a bezel in black ceramic, 45mm case in rose
gold and a sleek, black alligator-rubber strap, this is definitely wrist worthy. It represents the timeless style, elegance and necessity of why a watch won’t (and can’t)
ever be replaced. Valued at $17,900.
— Paul Aguirre
082.CJ_LastWord.indd 98 5/7/10 12:10:05 PM

Diemmeffe
Chic, classic, outstanding enriching
and versatile jewels.
JOMARK
DISTRIBUTORS
Luxurious... Opulence... Lavishness
First in Distributing the
World’s Finest Italian Jewellery!
John Di Scola
Tel: (416)606-0369 Fax: (905)264-8419 email:jomarkgold@yahoo.com
Jomark.indd 10
cjJuneJuly10_Jomark_Ad.indd 1 12/21/09
5/5/10 10:51:42
4:29:26 PM
AM
PRM278 PRM271
PRM-265 PRM-265
Mirage Creations Inc.

221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com
cjJuneJuly10_Mirage_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:30:45 PM

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 0

Win A $1000 First Class

001.CJ_Cover.indd 1 5/10/10 1:42:18 PM

Sterling Silver and Gold

Canada’s leading ring and

cjJuneJuly10_Siffari_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:12:57 PM

• Original Italian Design

Contact Official Canadian Distributor at (416) 409 3855 or email to info@plastichic.ca

For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 97

cjJuneJuly10_CoolStuff_PlastiChic_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:13:49 PM

You’re there for your customers, and at every

point along the way, Stuller is there for you. We offer

a vast selection of bridal jewellery in all the

latest styles, as well as unique selling tools like our

comprehensive prototype merchandising solutions

ideas and solutions, call 800-877-7777, or visit us

stulle r.com 800-877-7777

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 97

cjJuneJuly10_Stuller_dpsAd.indd 4 5/5/10 3:14:59 PM

A non-profit overseen by leading industry

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 97

CONTRIBUTORS Stephanie Bonotto, Sarah B. Hood, Katie Huisman,

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales

CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 97

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 5/10/10 1:43:25 PM

66 Service Made Simple

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 10 5/10/10 1:53:04 PM

CJ_Pandora_June2010.indd 1 4/15/2010 11:46:58 AM

cjJunJul10_Crosby_Pandora_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:20:14 PM

34 Stock Index 97 Fax Back

36 Mining News 98 Last Word

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 5/10/10 1:47:16 PM

cjJuneJuly10_CrownRing_Ad1.indd 1 5/5/10 3:20:52 PM

014.CJ_GuestEditor.indd 14 5/10/10 1:49:52 PM

cjJuneJuly10_CrownRing_Ad2.indd 1 5/5/10 4:13:05 PM

Amber Klaehn Jesse Kaufman Sarah B. Hood Katie Huisman

Letter to the Editor

Dear Canadian Jeweller

016.CJ_Contributors.indd 16 5/7/10 12:05:22 PM

Chamilia_NE_CanJewel_JuneJuly_Trade_Ad_4pdf.indd 1 4/19/10 12:33 PM

cjJuneJuly10_EagleMedia_Chailia_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:22:07 PM

Personal Jewelry Insurance

018-026.CJ_Product.indd 18 5/10/10 1:51:12 PM

Personal Jewelry Insurance

018-026.CJ_Product.indd 18 5/11/10 9:35:54 AM

cjJuneJuly_AtlanticEngraving_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:50:38 PM

CHIAMPESAN The Peter Heim Collection

GIA Reports and Grading Systems

018-026.CJ_Product.indd 20 5/11/10 9:36:09 AM

Living & Giving

International Centre • Toronto Congress Centre

For details, write #128 on Free Info Page, page 97

cjJuneJuly10_MatrixCreative_CGTA_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:09:12 PM

Western Canadian Jewellery Expo

018-026.CJ_Product.indd 22 5/11/10 9:36:20 AM

LOW COST LEADER ™ Visit us at the

cjJuneJuly10_WorldsGold_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:44:54 PM

The Butterfly Effect

018-026.CJ_Product.indd 24 5/11/10 9:36:41 AM

“The Internet purchaser will go to an appraiser to confirm that