N highest value

100 6.5 mo
10007.7 mo
10000 8.9 mo

4 mo
1.25 mo
H 1/ 3=4 mo
H 1/ 10=5.1 m o
H 1/ 100 =6.67 mo
8 mo

Tc
0
Tz
1(broad band )

m22
T
= 1
= 1 c
mo m4
Tz

= g T z T c
2

wave slope variance=

N o=

1
2

T z=

1
No

T c =2

T z=2

T1=

T1=

m4
g

m2
mo

m2
m4
mo
m2

2 2 mo
=
1

m1
2

S ( ) d
0

mo

T S ( ) d
T 1=

S ( ) d
0

2
=

1
S ( ) d

S ( ) d
0

apparent wave amplitude

2 m1
mo

H apparent wave height

T z apparent zero upcrossing period
z apparent zero upcrossing wave length
c apparent wave lengthbetween crests
( t ) apparent wave elevation
var [ (t) ]=

1 2 2
( )
2 i i

1 42
4
i i = i S ( )=m4
2
2

i S ( ) = i S ( )=m2

2
1
var [ ( t ) ]= ( i i )
2

1 22

2 i i
2

i S ( ) = i S ( )=m2

(t )= i cos ( i t + i )
i

( t )= i i sin (i t+ i )
i

i i amplitude of vertical velocity

T 1 =2

A=

B=

mo
m1

173 h1 /3
4

T1
691
4
T1

h1 /3 average of highest one third waves

A=0.0081
B=

3.11
h 21/ 3
B

S ( )=

A
e
5

S ( )= g

[ (
e
0.74

V wind
g

V wind wind speed 19.5 mabove

mn= n S ( ) d
0

mo= 0 S ( ) d= S ( ) d=variance
0

S ( )= g2 5
=0.0081( measurements)
T =T ( 2 n+m ) T ( 4+m ) m=5
2 n

1 m

L T = ( LT ) ( T )
L2=Ln n=2
n

S ( )= g

(t )= 2 S ( i ) i cos ( i t + i )
i

t
X ()

R ( o )= E
1 2
=S ( i ) i
2 i
=8.5

i= 2 S ( i ) i
S ( ) =variance of components within

2
S ( )= R ( ) cos d
0
E
=g mo [N m/m2]
uint surface area

g
i

1 2
=g S ( ) d
2 i
0

12 i2 = S ( ) d
i
0

m
S ( ) [ 2 . s /rad ]

i2 is for components within i

i2
2

12 i2 = S ( ) d
i
0
R ( 0 )=E [ X 2 ]
[rad /s]

( ) =E[ X 1 X 2 ]
R ( )=R ( )

R ( )=E [ X (t ) X ( t+ ) ]
(t )= i cos ( i t + i )
i

i= i cos (i t+ i )
+

1
B ( )=
A ( t ) eit d t

2
+

A ( t ) = B ( ) eit d

1
g ( x ) eix dx

g ( )=

g (x )=

1
g ( ) e ix dx

B ( )=

1
g ( v ) sin v dv

A ( ) =

1
g ( v ) cos v dv

g ( x ) = [ A ( ) cos x+ B ( ) sin x ] d
0

g ( x ) =ao + ( an cos nx +bn sin nx )

n=1

ao =

1
g ( x ) dx
2

an =

1
g ( x ) cos nx dx , n=1,2,

bn =

1
g ( x ) sin nx dx , n=1,2,

( xa
)

e
F ( x )=e

( x )

F ( x )=1e

( x )

F ( x )=1e

x> 0, >0, > 0

( x )

F ( x )=1e
=1
=0.5
=0.25

68 of values withinrange
95.5 of values within range 2
99.7 of values within range 3

( u )=

1
e
2

1 2
u
2

with =0 =1

[ ( )]

1
p ( x )=
e
2

1 x
2

for< x <

E [ c ] =c
E [ cX ] =cE [ X ]
E [ X +Y ] =E [ X ] + E [ Y ]
E [ 4 X 2 Y + 6 ] =4 E [ X ] 2 E [ Y ] +6
var c=0

var cX =c var X
var ( X +Y )=varX +Var Y
if X Y areindependant

y = 730.32=27.02heartbeats

x = 26.4=5.14 heartbeats

variance=standard deviation
2

5630.327 0 =730.32
t
heartbea

2y = 2 ( y) ( y )2
2 ( y )=E [ Y 2 ] = y 2 p ( y )
all x

2 ( y ) =4 0 0.4 +6 0 0.05++10 0 0.4=5630.32

x =2 (x) ( x )

4926.47 02 =26.4

2= 22
2 (x)=E [ X 2 ] = x 2 p ( x )
all x

2 (x)=4 0 0.1+6 0 0.04+ +10 0 0.01=4926.4

2 islarge when X islarge
2 is small when X is small

variance of X=var X= 2= 2=E [ ( X )2 ]

=400.4+600.05++ 1000.4=70

E [ X ] == xp ( x )
all x

=400.01+ 600.04 ++1000.01=70

 n = n if =0
2=E [ ( X )2 ] = 22

2=E [ ( X )2 ] = 22 2+ 2
2=E [ ( X )2 ] =E [ X 2 ]2 E [ X ] + 2

standard deviation , = 2
b

2=E [ ( X ) ] = ( x )2 p ( x ) dx
2

n =E [ ( X )n ]= ( x )n p ( x ) dx
a

n=1,2,3,
b

1=E [ X ] = x p ( x ) dx=mean
a

1 usually denoted as
b

n=E [ X n ]= x n p ( x ) dx
a

th

n n moment
b

E [ X ] = x p ( x ) dx
a

E [ X ] = x p ( x ) dx
a

x2

P ( x1 <X x 2) = p ( u ) du
x1

x0

P ( X=x 0 ) = p ( u ) du=0
x0

p ( u ) du=1

p ( x ) dx=dF ( x )=P ( x < X x+ dx )

P ( x < X x+ dx )=F ( x +dx )F ( x )=dF( x )
x

F ( x )= p ( u ) du

p ( x )=

r2
2R

dF ( x )
dx

amplitude=r
x=Rt+rsint
z=R+rcost
x=R+rsin
trochoid
=t
=2 R
R
o

12 0

1
= cos ( kxt )+ k 2 cos 2(kx +t )
2
2
= cos ( kx ) + cos 2(kx )

0.14
r

A'

kx t

s=2 cos kx cos t

 s= cos ( kxt ) + cos (kx +t )

= cos( kx+ t)

( x , t )= sin ( k x t ) + sin ( k x + t )
( x , t )= sin ( k x + t )

cos u+cos v=2 cos

( u+v2 ) cos ( uv2 )

= 1 + 2

C g=

C=

d 1 g 1
=
= C
dk 2 k 2

g
k

= gk
C g=

d
dk

C B=

is group velocity=C g
k

velocity ,C B =

B
=
TB k

velocity ,C A =

=
T A k

B A
wave length , B =

2
2
=
1
k
k 1k 2 )
(
2

1
(
2)=
1
circular frequency , B=
2

period ,T B =

2 2
=
B

wave length , A =

2
1
(k +k )
2 1 2

( 1+ 2 )=
1
circular frequency , A =
2

2
k

period ,T A =

2 2
=
A

1 +2
2

k +k
k = 1 2
2
= 1 + 2= cos ( k 1 x 1 t ) + cos (k 2 x 2 t)

( 12 )t }
( k 1 k 2 ) x
1
( 1+2 )t }cos
2
k
+
k
x

( 1 2)
1
2 cos
2
=2 Term ATerm B
2 cos ( k x
t ) cos( k x t)

k 1 , k 2 1 , 2 are closer
1= cos(k 1 x1 t )
2= cos(k 2 x2 t)

T
A
deep water waves :

C=

g
2

C= gh= 9.815=7 m/s

156.21
C= =
=15.62 m/s
T
10
C= gh= 9.811=3.13 m/ s
=CT = ghT = 9.81110=31.3 m
2

g T 9.8110
=
=
=156.21 m
2
2

wave number : k=

2 2
=

surface profile : ( x , t)= cosk (x Ct)

velocity potential := C e kz sink ( xCt )

g
g
wave celerity :C= =
= = =
T
2 2 k

wave length : =

2 C2 gT 2
=
g
2

wave period :T =

2
g

2 H w
max . wave slope : k =
=

wave energy
1
= g 2
unit surface area 2

for =0
( x , y , t)= cos k ( xCt + )
for a point at origin

 (0,0,t)= cos k (Ct + )

is the phase angle make it general

(x , y , t)= cos k [ ( xcos + ysin )Ct + ]
s=xcos + ysin
s

x
y

TE
1
= g 2
unit surafce area 2
PE
1
= 2 g
unit breadth 4
PE
1
= g 2
unit surface area 4

PE

= g dx
unit breadth 0
2

PE
1
= g 2 dx
unit breadth 2
0

dx

2
KE
1
= 2 g
unit breadth 4
KE
1
= g 2
unit surface area 4

KE
1

=
unit breadth 2 0 z

p=g [ 2e2 k ]
p=1.26 g

2 =gk tanh (kh)

p=2.74 g

e2 k =e20.01510 =e0.3
k 2
]
p=g [ 2 + e

2 k

p=g [ 2+e

3 g
kz
p=g [z+ e cos k ( xCt ) ]

cos k ( xCt )=1

cos k ( xCt )=1

p=g [z+ e kz cos k ( xCt ) ]
z=2

p=g [ 2 + ek 2 cos k ( xCt ) ]

( ddx )

max

=k =

2 Hw
=

d
=k sin kx
dx

( ddx )

=k ignoring sign

max

t
k

T
k
= cos kx
2
= cos
x

( )

= cos kCt
= cos t

2
2
2g
=
=
= kg
T

2
g

kC==

2
T

2
2
T= =
=
=
c
g
g
g
2

 = cos k ( xCt )

= e kz cos k ( xCt )

cosh k ( z +h )
kz
e
cosh kh

cosh k ( z +h )
cos k (xCt )
cosh kh

g
C2= tanh(kh)
k

sinh ( kh ) =cos(kh)

kC
g

2
k C cosh k ( z +h )
cos k ( xCt )
g
sinh kh

C2 =

C=

g
2

C =

g
2

g
k

g
C2 = kh=gh
k
C= gh
h

25

tanh ( kh ) kh for small kh

tanh ( kh ) 1 for large kh

g
2
C = tanh( kh)
k
for z =0, r=
since k C=

r= e

kz

w=

u=

=k C e kz sink( xCt)
z

kz
=k C e cosk ( xCt )
x

= C e sink ( xCt )
kz

= C

cosh k ( z+ h )
sink (xCt )
sinh kh

cosh k ( z +h )
kz
e
sinh kh

1
g t

,z

z= ( x , y ,t )

+g
2
z
t

=0
z=0

|z=0=
z
t

| + g =0
t z=0

|z= = +
+
+
z
t x x y y z z

| = +u
+v
+w
z z= t
x
y
z

D
|z= =
z
Dt
w ( x , y , z , t ) |z=h=

1
+ g + V 2 =0
t
2
( x, y ,t)
x
z

| =0
z z=h

hmean water depth

Patm atmospheric pressure

let F ( t ) =

Patm

P
p
1
+ + gz + V 2= atm
t
2

p
1
+ + gz + V 2=F ( t )
t
2
V 2=u2 + v 2+ w2
2

=0
u=

v=

w=

=c=
T
k
0.1

1
30
5 min
12 h
24 h
capillary waves
gravity
capillary waves
gravity waves
infra gravity waves
storm
surges ,
tsunamis
tidal waves

wave period [ seconds]

relative energy


=c ( phase velocitycelerity)
T

( x )= A sin

( t )=A sin

( 2 x)

( 2T t )

( x , t )= A sin ( k x t )
( x , t )= A sin ( k x+ t )

2
is circular frequency ,
T
2
is wave number , k

( x + x o , t +t o )= ( x ,t ) if

xo t o
=
T

( x , t )= ( x + , t ) = ( x+ n , t )

( x+ , t )= A sin

( 2 ( x + ) 2T t )

for x =xo
( x o ,t ) is a sine function of t .

( x o ,t ) =A sin

( 2 x 2T t )
o

for t=t o
( x ,t o ) is a sine function of x .

( x ,t o ) =A sin

( x , t )= A sin

( 2 x 2T t )
o

( 2 x 2T t )