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break your toes, hand, fingers etc. if they were to slip and fall on those.
Remember most of the stuff you will be touching will be covered in pump
oil.
-Please dispose of pump oil properly. Mine goes with other organic
wastes. If you don't have access to this contact your local authorities on
how to properly dispose of the waste. Don't put it down the drain or just
in the trash.
Lastly, I will be the first to admit I am not the greatest author in the
world. If anything in this 'able needs clarification or you have
suggestions for improvement feel free to mention it. I will try to explain
things better and/or make changes.
3) The vanes can catastrophically fail and jam themselves up with their
own pieces.
The tools needed for this task are not overly complex or hard
to fine. Many are improvised at will with what you have around.
1) Something to drain the oil into. I used a beaker but
anything should work. Just remember to dispose of it properly
2) A 3/16" allen wrench (aka a hex key). Every bolt/screw in
this pump uses this. It is a very simple aspect that makes
disassembly a breeze.
3) Needle nose pliers - for helping remove bolts which have
been unscrewed but need a bit of help being pulled out of their
hole.
4) A flat head screw driver. This is mainly for gently prying
joints apart. So plastic will actually work better but I didn't
have one so I was just careful.
5) Forceps - For scraping away debris and getting paper towels
into tight places.
6) Needles or picks or something to scrape out tight places. I
had a variety of metal needles on hand (sharp ones) so I used
those.
7) Some sort of flat device for scraping. Being a chemist I
used a chemist spatula, which worked perfectly for scraping.
8) Edwards Grade 19 Pump Oil (enough to drain and fill ATLEAST
First, before doing anything else. UNPLUG THE PUMP! You do not
want it turning on at ANY point during this procedure. PERIOD! Just
Alright, now that we have the cover off you will see a long round cylinder
(the pump body) with two bolts in it and a large cap on top with one bolt
in it, shown in the first image.
This cap covers covers the back flow prevention valve. The air exits
here so this will likely be dirty and need cleaning.Remove the bolt in this
large cap and set the cap to the side.
With the cap removed, you will see the back flow prevention valve (see
Image 2). It consists of a footplate with some reed valves underneath.
The footplate is held down by one bolt. Remove this bolt as well. Set all
of this to the side for cleaning as well.
Now returning to the cylindrical pump body. Remove the 2 bolts
indicated in picture 3. Now depending on how dirty or what not your oil
pump is, the 2nd stage may just fall off, or it may take some work. In my
case even though it was dirty as heck it just came off. If it requires some
work, looking at the cylinder you will see three seams in the cylinder.
These are actually the separate sections. The first appears and closest
to the bolts appears to be the oil pump. The second, getting farther
away is the 2nd stage of the pump, and the third is the first stage of the
pump.
Now pry off the cover over the oil pump by inserting a flat head
screwdriver in the first seam (the one closest to the bolts you just
removed) and carefully working it open by gently forcing it at different
points around the circumference.
The cover should come off and you will be faced with the oil pump as
shown in picture 4. Picture 5 shows a closeup of this. You can see it is a
tiny rotary vane pump, with a solid single vane in the center.
Carefully, remove the oil pump rotary spindle and then putting your
screw driver in the next seam, pry the oil pump body off. As shown in
picture 6. You will then have exposed the SECOND stage of the vacuum
pump (it goes backwards here).
Now you have the second stage of the oil pump exposed.
You will notice that this section consists of a cavity with a circular metal
piece in the middle with two gray plastic pieces, I call this the rotary
vane assembly. Those plastic pieces are the vanes. They are VERY soft
plastic, be VERY careful with them. They also are often what sticks
when the pump gets seized up (either these or the ones in the first
stage which we will see later). As I stated before, seizing can be caused
by two different modes. The first is that the surface around the outside
develops a layer of gunk which prevents these vanes from sliding along
the edge and they get stuck in place. The second is that a layer of gunk
develops between these vanes and the channel in the center
circular piece. These parts have VERY tight tolerances and a gunk build
up in there prevents the vanes from moving, sticking them in place, so
that when they hit the wall and are supposed to contract in they don't.
This can actually cause vanes to shatter, which will require a rebuild kit.
You will notice there are two bolts in the wall, these hold the second
stage onto the first stage. Remove these and pry off the second stage,
just as you did the other two seams. Note, that there is a little cylindrical
adapter with groves in it which transfers motion from the rotary vanes in
stage 1 to those in stage 2. Depending on where it wants to stick, it can
either stick to the rotary vane in stage 1 or to the back of the rotary vane
in stage 2. Don't loose this piece, so make sure you locate it before
preceding. We now have exposed everything we needed to for cleaning
out the pump.
The easiest way to clean this is with some sort of fast drying nonpolar/low-polarity solvent such as chloroform, toluene, hexanes, mineral
spirts, etc.
Now lets test the first stage, with a pair of pliers, rotate the first stage, it
First thing is lets get the rotary vane assembly out of the second stage
(if it hasn't come out on its own). Turn the first stage over in your hand,
with your fingers supporting the rotary vane assembly.
Push your thumb through the hole on the backside, forcing the rotary
vane assembly out.
Once again scraping and making sure you have cleaned everything all
of the holes, grooves etc.
This was pretty easy for me, much more easy than stage 2.
Clean and scrape out the cap and back-flow preventer parts.
Clean and scrape out the outside body of the pump basically the oil
reservoir, including the oil level window. This took about 1hr for me. It
was honestly, quite disgusting.
Step 9: Reassembly
Attach the oil pump lining up the screw holes and while holding the oil
pump in one hand attach the oil pump cover, lining up the screw holes.
Then while still holding all of this with one hand, screw in one of the
screws to hold it in place.
Screw in the other screw, the pump body is back together.
Now reattach the backflow preventer valve. It goes on like shown.
Now reattach the housing that goes on top of the backflow preventer
valve.
Lastly, reattach the pump body. Don't forget the gasket that goes in
between the two parts.