DOCUMENTATION ON THE TEXTILE PROCESSING AUXILIARIES

AND CHEMICAL SUPPLIERS IN INDIA FOR CELLULOSIC,

WOOLEN, SILK ETC.. MATERIAL. THE SUPPLIERS MAY ALSO BE
COMPARED ON THE BASIS OF COST AVAILABILITY OF VARIOUS
TYPES OF PRODUCTS, DELIVERY, TIME ETC.

Acknowledgement

I have taken efforts in this report. However, it would not have been possible
without the kind support and help of many individuals. I would like to extend my
sincere thanks to all of them.
I am highly indebted to Prof. B. Banerjee for his guidance and constant supervision
as well as for providing necessary information regarding the report .We are really
thankful to our teacher for his full co-operation and support.
I will also like to thank the almighty God without whose grace nothing is possible
and is everneeded.
It was a nice learning experience for all of us.
Any suggestions would be willingly accepted and incorporated.
Kalash Kumar

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Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of adding color
to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics.
Dyeing is normally done in a
special solution containing dyesand
particular chemical material. After dyeing,
dye molecules haveuncut Chemical bond with
fiber molecules. The temperature and time
controlling are two key factors in dyeing. There
are mainly two classes of dye, natural and manmade.
Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, Nylon and protein fibers such as wool and
silk are dyed with acid dyes, polyester yarn is dyed with disperse dyes. Cotton is
dyed with a range of dye types, including vat dyes, and modern synthetic reactive
and direct dyes.
Direct dyeing
Direct dyes, a class of dyes largely for dyeing cotton, are water soluble and can be
applied directly to the fiber from an aqueous solution. Most other classes of
synthetic dye, other than vat and surface dyes, are also applied in this way.This
dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or slightly alkaline dye bath, at or
near boiling point, with the addition of either sodium chloride (NaCl) or sodium
sulphate (Na2SO4). Direct dyes are used on cotton, paper, leather, wool, silk
and nylon. They are also used as pH indicators and as biological stains
Yarn dyeing
There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are the at package form and
the at hanks form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or
wool yarn are dyed at hank form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or
polyamide yarns are always dyed at package form, while viscose rayon yarns are
partly dyed at hank form because of technology.

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Dyes
A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being
applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and may require
a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.
Types of dyes:
Natural dyes
The majority of natural dyes are from plant sources like roots,
berries, bark, leaves, and wood, fungi, and lichens. Plant-based dyes such
as indigo, saffron, and madder were raised commercially and were important trade
goods in the economies of Asia and Europe. Across Asia and Africa, patterned
fabrics were produced using resist dyeing techniques to control the absorption of
color in piece-dyed cloth.
Synthetic dyes
They are human-made (synthetic) organic dye like mauveine.Synthetic dyes have
quickly replaced the traditional natural dyes. They cost less, they offered a vast
range of new colors, and they impart better properties to the dyed materials.
Dyes are also classified according to how they are used in the dyeing process:
Acid dyes: are water-soluble anionic dyes that are applied
to fibers such
as silk, wool, nylon and
modified acrylic
fibers using neutral to acid dye baths. Attachment to the fiber
is attributed, at least partly, to salt formation between anionic
groups in the dyes and cationic groups in the fiber. Acid dyes
are not substantive to cellulosic fibers. Most synthetic food colors
fall in this category.
Basic dyes :are water-soluble cationic dyes that are mainly applied to acrylic
fibers, but find some use for wool and silk. Usually acetic acid is added to the dye
bath to help the uptake of the dye onto the fiber. Basic dyes are also used in the
coloration of paper.
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Mordant dyes: require a mordant, which improves the fastness of the dye against
water, light and perspiration. The choice of mordant is very important as different
mordants can change the final color significantly. Most natural dyes are mordant
dyes. The most important mordant dyes are the synthetic mordant dyes, or chrome
dyes, used for wool; these comprise some 30% of dyes used for wool, and are
especially useful for black and navy shades. The mordant, potassium dichromate, is
applied as an after-treatment.
Vat dyes: are essentially insoluble in water and incapable of
dyeing fibres directly. However, reduction in alkaline
liquor produces the water soluble alkalimetal salt of the dye,
which, in this leuco form, has an affinity for the textile fibre.
Subsequent oxidation reforms the original insoluble dye. The
color of denim is due to indigo, the original vat dye.
Reactive dyes: utilize a chromophore attached to a substituent that is capable of
directly reacting with the fibre substrate. The covalent bonds that attach reactive
dye to natural fibers make them among the most permanent of dyes. "Cold"
reactive dyes, such as Procion MX, Cibacron F, and Drimarene K, are very easy to
use because the dye can be applied at room temperature. Reactive dyes are by far
the best choice for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibres.
Disperse dyes: were originally developed for the dyeing of cellulose acetate, and
are water insoluble. The dyes are finely ground in the presence of a dispersing
agent and sold as a paste, or spray-dried and sold as a powder. Their main use is to
dye polyester but they can also be used to dye nylon, cellulose triacetate, and
acrylic fibres.
Sulfur dyes: are two part "developed" dyes used to dye
cotton with dark colors. The initial bath imparts a yellow or
pale chartreuse color, This is after treated with a sulfur
compound in place to produce the dark black we are familiar
with in socks for instance. Sulfur Black 1 is the largest selling
dye by volume.

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Textile Dyes used for cellulosic Fibres

Cellulose fibers include cotton, linen, rayon, hemp, ramie, lyocell (Tencel),
bamboo, and pineapple plant fiber.
Fiber Reactive Dyes
The best dyes, by far, to use for cotton and other cellulose fibers are the fiber
reactive dyes. They are much brighter, longer-lasting, and easier-to-use than allpurpose dyes.
How to Use Fiber Reactive Dye
Cool water fiber reactive dyes can be used normally. It can also be used according
to the Low Water Immersion, or even in a washing machine.They work especially
well on cotton, and on any other cellulose fiber.

Types of Fiber Reactive Dye

ProcionMX : Many people feel quite strongly that the best dye choice for the
beginner, as well as for many experienced dyers, is Procion MX, because this dye
is very easy to work with. You never need to steam or otherwise heat-set the fabric,
when you are using Procion MX type fiber reactive dyes, and the dyes are
relatively non-toxic. Other advantages include the remarkable washfastness found
in all fiber-reactive dyes.
Optimum reaction temperatures for Procion MX dyes are between 95 and 105F =
35 to 41C (except for turquoise, which prefers up to 130F = 55C). Do not use
at temperatures below 70F.If the temperature is lower than that, pop each piece
into a separate plastic bag or bucket and take them to a warmer place overnight to
react.
Cibacron F: Another very good fiber reactive dye for artists and crafters to use is
the Cibacron F line. Like Procion MX dyes, Cibacron F dyes can be used in warm
water, instead of extremely hot water like some dyes. Its advantages over
ProcionMX dyes are that it 'keeps' better in solution, so one can store and possibly
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even buy it already in solution (liquid form), avoiding the safety hazard of
breathing dye powder; it is also easier to wash the excess unattached dye out of the
fabric when using Cibacron F dyes than when using Procion MX. However, the
Cibacron F line has one major drawback when compared to the Procion MX line:
there is not as wide a choice of colors, whether one buys primaries to mix your
own, or buys pre-made mixes from the dye supplier.
Optimum temperatures for Cibacron F dyes are slightly higher than for Procion
MX dyes. Ciba said 55 to 65C (130 to 150F).
Drimarene K: This is the more of a "warm water" dye than a "cool water" dye. It
requires higher temperatures still than Cibacron F, but does not require steaming.
They are very similar in action to MX type dyes, except for requiring a minimum
temperature of 35C (or 95F). The greatest drawback, besides the need to find a
warm place for the dye reaction to occur, is the lack of a truly rich red. This is,
however, another excellent line of dye for home.Drimarene K has optimum
temperatures around 60C (140F) for most colors, 80C (176F) for turquoise and
a couple of others.
Remazol or vinyl sulfone dyes: are usually used for silk painting and fixed by
steaming, but, like Procion H dyes, may be fixed to cotton using a high-pH
solution such as sodium silicate at room temperature, or by moderate heating. They
work well between 104F and 140F (40C-60C). To use it for cotton, use it with
TSP instead of soda ash, in low water immersion dyeing, with just a little heating,
by floating the buckets in a sinkful of hot water, or by using a microwave oven to
heat the dyebath. Vinyl sulfone dyes are particularly useful for chemical resist
dyeing (PDF), in which two different types of fiber reactive dyes are used to print
foreground and background in different colors. Remazol dyes are more suitable for
dyeing for later discharge (bleaching) than are other fiber reactive dyes.
Levafix: Their temperature optimum is around 50C (122F). This is lower than
the optimum temperature of 60 to 80 C. for the Drimarene K dyes, which can be
used in "cold" dyeing, but higher than the optimum temperature of about 35 to
40C (95 to 105F) for Procion MX. As with all of these dyes, it is not necessary
to get quite as high as the optimal temperature in order to have acceptable results.

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Procion H and H-E dyes: are hot water dyes. They are usually used for silk
painting; they require steaming or simmering to fix to cotton or silk. Procion H
dyes are chemically similar to Procion MX dyes, being monochlorotriazines, but
they are far less reactive, and will not work at all well at room temperature. They
can be purchased in the form of powdered dye or dissolved in water; the latter
removes the dangers associated with breathing dye powder. Immersion dyeing
works best at 175F (80C).

Direct Dyes
Direct dyes are a class of hot water dyes for use on cellulose fibers, such as cotton.
It is one of the two types of dyes that are mixed in 'all purpose dyes'
such as Rit, Tintex Hot Water dye, and Dylon Multi-purpose Dye.
(The other type in the mixture is an acid dye, which will not stay
in any cellulose fiber for long.) In most cases, better results will
be obtained, often with versatile and easier-to-use cool water
methods,if one uses fiber reactive dye instead of direct dye.
However, there are some cases in which direct dye is preferred.
They areduller in color and poorly washfast.The colors of most direct dyes tend to
be duller than those provided by fiber reactive dyes, especially after fading in the
laundry. The washfastness of direct dyes is poor: expect anything dyed with them
to 'bleed' forever. They lack the permanence of the cold water fiber reactive dyes
which most hand-dyers prefer for use on cellulose fibers. As a result, clothing dyed
with direct dyes should be laundered in cool water only, with closely similar
colors. The washfastness problem can be reduced by following dyeing with the use
of a cationic after-treatment such as Retayne.
They are inexpensive.The main reason why direct dyes are used is because of cost.
Direct dyes are sold alone and purchased in bulk and are among the cheapest of all
dyes.
They need a single dye bath.Direct dyes are applied in hot water, typically between
175F and 200F. They can be applied in the same boiling-water dyebath with acid

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dyes (whether for same-color effects, as in all-purpose dyes, or contrasting effects,

as in the case of AlterEgo brand dyes).
Direct dyes are not generally more lightfast than fiber reactive dyes.Many direct
dyes are less resistant to light than similarly-hued fiber reactive dyes, and both tend
to be less lightfast than vat dyes. There are just a few cases in which a particular
direct dye may be more lightfast than similar shades of fiber reactive dye.
Direct dyes are only loosely associated with the fiber molecule through the
property called substantivity, which is the tendency of the dye to associate with the
dye without strong bonds. This substantivity is increased by increasing the size of
the dye molecule, so direct dyes tend to be large. Small dye molecules tend to be
bright, while large dye molecules tend to be duller (as there are more parts that can
absorb additional wavelengths of light), so direct dyes are generally much less
bright in color than fiber reactive dyes. Substantivity is said to result from a
combination of the relatively weak Van der Waals forces and some hydrogen
bonding.

Suppliers
Dharma's Industrial dyes are eight different colors of direct dyes"not as
washfast or as bright as our other dyes, but easy & cheap". They are very
inexpensive to use, costing as little as 6 cents per pound of fabric to be dyed. A
pound of Dharma's Industrial Dye costs only $6.
PRO Chemical & Dye until recently sold an inexpensive line of nine different
direct dye colors under the name "Diazol Direct Dyes". Dyeing one pound of fabric
to a medium shade requires only 2.25 grams of dye, less than is required for most
dye types. This means that a pound of dye would be sufficient to dye more than
200 pounds of cotton fabric. The different colors have different costs, with prices
being set lower for the less expensive dyes, rather than all being set to the same
price as the most expensive color, as in many brands.
Aljo Mfg. sells the same direct dyes that ProChem used to, by Color Index
Number, as well as blended colors. They may supply their dyes in a different
strength, but you can ask for 100% of standard strength.
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Jacquard Products has introduced a line of direct dyes called iDye, to go with
their line of low-energy disperse dyes called iDye Poly. The two kinds of dyes may
be mixed in order to dye cotton/polyester blends in a single dyebath. iDye is much
more expensive per use than Industrial Dyes or Diazol Direct Dyes, as it is
packaged in individual-use packets like Rit or Tintex all-purpose dye.
Cushing sells a line containing many different pre-mixed colors of direct dyes; no
information is available on which direct dyes are included. There are two groups of
primary colors: the lighter set is Scarlet, Light Blue or Copenhagen Blue, and
Yellow, while the darker would be Blue, Cardinal and Canary. They are designed to
be used directly, however, not for color mixing; thus, there are forty different
colors available. Half an ounce of Cushing Direct Dye is sufficient to dye two
pounds of cellulose fiber, such as cotton, and costs $3.65. Rit brand's Proline Bulk
Dye consists of only direct dye, with no acid dye included, but apparently with a
considerable amount of salt included, so a given weight of dye will not go nearly
as far as with ProChem'sDiazol Direct dyes or Dharma's Industrial dyes.
Vat Dyes
Vat dyes are an ancient class of dye, based on the original natural dye, Indigo,
which is now produced synthetically, and its close chemical relative, historic
TyrianPurple. Both cotton and wool, as well as other fibers, can be dyed with vat
dyes.
"Vat dyeing" means dyeing in a bucket or vat. It can be done whenever a solid even
shade, the same color over the entire garment, is wanted, using almost any dye,
including fiber reactive dye, direct dye, acid dye, etc. The opposite of vat dyeing is
direct dye application, such as, for example, tie dyeing.
Vat Dyes
Most vat dyes are less suitable for the home dyer, as they are difficult to work with;
they require a reducing agent to solubilize them. The dye is soluble only in its
reduced (oxygen-free) form. The fiber is immersed repeatedly in this oxygen-free
dyebath, then exposed to the air, whereupon the water-soluble reduced form
changes color as oxygen turns it to the water-insoluble form. Indigo is an example

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of this dye class; it changes from yellow, in the dye bath, to green and then blue as
the air hits it.
Light fastness of Vat dyes
Vat dyes are, as a class, the most light-fast of all dyes. However, not all individual
vat dyes are equally resistant to light. The following are lightfastness ratings for the
unmixed vat dyes :
ColorName

Colour Index name

VD01 Yellow
VD02 Orange
VD03 Red
VD04 Blue
VD08 Violet

vat yellow 2
vat orange 2
vat red 13
vat blue 6
vat violet 1

Lightfastnessrating (out of
8)
5
5
7
7-8
6

Instructions for dyeing with vat dyes

Vat dyes must be solubilized before use. They are not soluble in their oxidized
form. The process requires the use of lye (sodium hydroxide), which must be used
with due care, including the use of goggles.
Indigo is subject to major crocking (rubbing off of the dye onto other items) unless
it is applied carefully. This means use a weaker dyebath, and dipping many times,
rather than a single strong dipping.
To solubilize vat dyes, use a mixture of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda, or lye)
and the reducing agent sodium dithionite (also known as sodium hydrosulfite, and
found in Rit Color Remover.
Light-oxidized Vat Dyes
Inko-dye is a brand of solubilized reduced vat dye esters, which uses light rather
than oxygen to 'fix' the dye, with a inspirationally wide variety of possible effects.
Instead of being applied in an oxygen-free bath and being developed in the fabric
by exposure to oxygen, Inkodyes are painted onto the fabric and then developed by
light. Unlike the Setacolor fabric paints used in sun printing, Inkodyes are true

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dyes. (A dye actually itself attaches to the fabric; fabric paint includes a glue-like
binder, which imparts a stiffer feeling to the fabric.

Suppliers
The only retail source of Inkodye is Dharma Trading Company. There are many
textile industry sources for Indigosol dyes, which are the same type of dye used in
Inkodye, but these large companies tend to be less suitable for small-scale users
such as textile artists.

Naphthol Dyes
Cotton, rayon, and other celluosic fibers, as well as silk, can also be dyed with
azoic or naphthol dyes. Naphthol dyes are true cold water dyes. The "cold" water
used in fiber reactive dyes such as Procion MX dyes should, ideally, be between
95 and 105F. (35 to 41C), although temperatures as low as 70F. (21C) may
be used. In contrast, naphthol dyes may be used in ice water. Both fiber reactive
and naphthol dyes are suitable for use in batik, since they do not require heat that
would melt the wax to set the dye.
Naphthol dyes include more hazardous chemicals than fiber reactive dyes, which
makes them less appropriate for home use.
The way naphthol dyes are used is fascinating. Two different types of chemicals
are mixed in the fiber, the diazo salt and the naphthol; the specific combination
determines the color obtained. An advantage of this sort of dye is that contrasting
colors may be placed adjacent to each other on fabric without color bleeding from
one to the other. As with vat dyes, the final color is provided by insoluble particles
of dye that are stuck within the fiber; only the components that react together to
form these compounds are themselves soluble in water.
All Purpose Dyes
All-purpose dye is a hot water dye. It contains a mixture of dyes which will work
on many different kinds of fabric and yarn, but not particularly well on any of

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them. It is often used in situations when another kind of dye would perform better,
largely because many people are unaware that there are higher quality dyes that
they could use.Theyare a mixture of Acid dye, of the leveling acid type, for dyeing
wool and other animal (protein) fibers, as well as nylon, and Direct dye, for dyeing
cellulose fibers such as cotton, rayon, linen, etc. In some cases it may contain an
acid dye that also happens to work pretty well as a direct dye. All-purpose dye
cannot be used to dye polyester or acrylic, and it cannot be used in cold water.
Great for Dyeing Fiber Blends
All purpose dye is most useful when coloring a blend of protein fiber (or nylon)
with a cellulose fiber such as cotton or rayon. Both fibers can be dyed
approximately the same color, at the same time. Some examples of such blends
include linsey-woolsey, Nycott (unless treated with Teflon, which makes it
undyeable), and any cotton or rayon garment with nylon lace trim. Both of the
kinds of dye in all-purpose dye tend to bleed and fade in the laundry, but a
commercial dye fixative can be used to improve performance.
Wasteful for Single Fibers
However, when dyeing a pure fiber of any sort, or a mixture of a pure fiber with
undyeable synthetics such as polyester or acrylic (which require entirely different
dyes), this mixture of dyes represents a waste of dye and money. While dyeing
pure cotton, the acid dye brightens the dyed item up only until it is washed for the
first time, whereupon all of the acid dye disappears into the sewage system.
Conversely, while dyeing wool or nylon alone, the direct dye is wasted, and ends
up down the drain.
In addition, the formulas for all-purpose dye generally contain a lot of salt. Salt is
cheap, but it makes the package appear to contain more dye than it really does. Salt
is useful in dyeing solid colors, but causes problems for specialized dyeing
techniques in which the dye is painted on the material.

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Suppliers
All-purpose dye is sold under a number of brand names, including Rit brand dye,
Dylon Multi-purpose dye (Dylon also sells fiber reactive dyes, in their Cold
Water and Washing Machine lines of dye), DEKA L Hot Water Dyes, and
Tintex Fabric Dyes. The old Cushing Union dye was also an all-purpose dye,
but they have since switched to selling their acid dye and direct dye separately.
The single most popular dye sold for home use in the US is Rit brand all-purpose
dye. The reason for its popularity is its ubiquity: nearly every grocery store and
pharmacy in the US sells an assortment of Rit brand dye on a rack.
Use the Correct Technique
To dye cellulosic fabric like cotton with all-purpose dye, you must use heat, and
plenty of time. Submerging the garment to be dyed in Rit brand dye and
simmering hot water will produce pastels after five minutes, or deeper, more
intense shades after half an hour. The ideal temperature is far hotter than tap water
can reach, at least 190F (or 87C).
Do not add soda ash when dyeing with all-purpose dye. Soda ash is used only
when dyeing with fiber reactive dye. It will not act as a dye fixative for all-purpose
dye.
Each packet of all-purpose dye contains only enough dye for 4 to 8 ounces of
material (100 to 200 grams). Black requires two to four times as much dye as other
colors. Smaller amounts of dye will result in paler colors.
Use an After-Treatment to Prevent Bleeding
While dyeing cotton with all purpose dyes, the only portion of the dye that actually
does anything is the direct dye. Direct dye tends to be poor at surviving washing; it
tends to wash out gradually, bleeding on other fabrics. The solution to this
problem, which is widely employed by the textile industry, is to apply a cationic
dye fixative afterwards which seals the dye into the fiber. Do not use vinegar to try
to make all-purpose dye more permanent.

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Conclusions
Use all-purpose dye if you want to use a single step to dye a garment that is a
mixture of a cellulose fiber, such as cotton or rayon, with either wool, another
animal fiber, or nylon. It is actually possible to dye both cotton and nylon in a
mixed-fiber garment with the same fiber reactive dye, but this requires a two-step
process with two different pH levels. Wool can be dyed with fiber reactive dyes at
a pH of 8 or 9, but nylon requires an acid pH.
Otherwise, whenever possible, avoid all purpose dye, in favor of a specific acid or
direct or fiber reactive dye that specifically matches your fiber and meets your
needs. If you want an acid dye that is washfast, use a different type of acid dye,
such as Lanaset dye. If one wants a cotton dye that is washfast, choose a fiber
reactive dye. For dyeing large quantities of cotton cheaply, mail-order direct dye in
bulk.
Textile dyes for wool
Wool is a fiber made from the hair of sheep. Other animal hair fibers, such as
angora, mohair, cashmere, and camel's hair, are in most respects dyed the same as
wool. All animal fibers are made of a class of chemicals known as protein.
Proteins are made out of different combinations of the twenty essential amino
acids. They are more complex than cellulose, which is made out of repeating units
of a sugar, glucose, and thus there are more ways in which different dye chemicals
can attach to them. There are, therefore, many more different substances which can
be used to dye protein fibers.
All animal hair fibers, such as wool, are sensitive to high pHs. To dye wool,one
must avoid the high pH of the soda ash recipes used to dye cotton. Most wooldyeing recipes call for an acid such as acetic acid, white vinegar (which naturally
contains acetic acid), or citric acid.

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Dyes for Wool

Acid dyes are the most popular dyes used on wool, and comprise a very wide
range of different dyes. Some of the many different available acid dyes include
food dyes, Metal Complex (or premetallized) Acid Dyes, Washfast Acid dyes, Acid
Leveling dyes, and One Shot dyes. Fiber reactive dyes such as Procion MX,
Cibacron F, and Drimarene K can also be used as acid dyes on wool.
Natural dyes: Many natural dyes work very well on protein fibers, such as wool.
Most will require a mordant, such as alum, copper, tin, or iron, so they are not
necessarily more on-toxic than synthetic dyes.
Lanaset dyes: The longest lasting, most wash-resistant, richest of hand dyes
available for dyeing wool in the US are the Lanaset dyes. The Lanaset dyes
comprise a selection of both acid dyes and fiber reactive dyes that are designed for
wool. Unlike other dyes for wool, Lanaset dyes can be washed in hot water without
fading badly. They are often difficult to obtain other countries in quantities small
enough for hand dyeing.
Lanaset dyes can be used to dye all polyamide fibers: silk, wool, angora, mohair,
and nylon. Lanaset dyes include two or three entirely different classes of dye. They
all attach to wool under similar conditions.
Lanaset dyes are considerably more washfast than most dyes available for use on
wool; they are significantly more permanent than the less washfast members of
ProChem'sWashFast Acid dyes or Jacquard's Acid Dyes, and certainly far more
washfast than the strong acid (Kiton) dyes. No other group of dyes that is suitable
for hand dyeing is more washfast on wool. Unlike other acid dyes, Lanaset dyes
are tested in hot water, at 140F, conditions under which many acid dyes will wash
out or bleed.
The main disadvantage of Lanaset dyes is that they are more expensive than other
acid dyes (though lower than all-purpose dyes

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How to use
Lanaset/Sabraset dyes are used at a mildly acid pH; for example, for one pound
(0.5 kg) of fiber in 3 gallons (12 liters) of water, use 2 cups (0.5 liter) of distilled
white vinegar. Glauber's salt (sodium sulfate) is often used to help level the dye,
that is, to produce a smooth single color on the entire batch of wool, instead of
coloring some parts strongly and others weakly; typically one cup per pound of
fiber in 3.5 gallons of water is recommended. In addition, sodium acetate may be
used as a pH buffer, to maintain acidity, at a rate of 2 grams per liter (0.5 to 1
ounce per 3.5 gallon dyebath). Albegal SET is a three-product mix that aids in
leveling, to get a smooth solid color. Heat is the final requirement.

Vinyl sulfonedyes :also known as Remazol dyes, are a type of fiber reactive dye
that is often used in silk painting. Unlike Procion MX dyes, they can be applied to
wool under acid conditions as true fiber reactive dyes, rather than as acid dyes.
Note that ProChem sells these under the name "Liquid Reactive Dyes", Dharma
Trading Company as "Vinyl Sulphon", and other suppliers as "Remazol" dyes.
Vat Dyes: such as indigo, can also be used to dye wool and other protein fibers, but
the recipe must be modified to avoid pHs high enough to damage the wool.
All purpose dyes: can be used to dye protein fibers, because they include an acid
dye in their mixture.The color might be slightly different than expected, and the
expense is higher than with other dyes.
How to use the different dyes
The different types of dyes used on wool are not interchangeable. All require a
mild acid, such as vinegar, citric acid, ammonium sulfate, or sodium acetate, but
not necessarily in the same quantities, and some require additional chemicals such
as salt, Albegal SET, or sodium sulfate (Glauber's salt). Some dyes require a
significantly lower (more acidic) pH than others; using a pH that is too low or too
high for some specific dye will reduce the success in dyeing. After selecting the
dye, find a wool-dyeing recipe that specifies that particular sort of dye.

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Suppliers

PRO Chemical & Dye, which sells most of these types of dye, has a full
range of reliable instruction sheets for each of many different types of dye.

Dharma Trading Company provides Instructions and Tutorials.

Jacquard Products has a page listing different Product Instructions.

Batik Oetoro in Australia gives instructions for different dyes on a single

Directions page.

Kraftkolour in Australia has a wonderful selection of Instruction Sheets for

many different dyes including Acid Milling Dyes, Lanaset and Lanasol dyes.

Fibrecrafts in the UK lists pages of instructions in their Fact File.

Although they're not a supplier for hand dyers, it's interesting to look at the
industrial recipes provided by Town End Colours in the UK for each of their
classes of dyes.
Suppliers of Lanaset dyes
Lanaset dyes are sold by several dye suppliers, including Paradise Fibers and PRO
Chemical and Dye under their name of Sabraset. They are also sold under the
brand name Telana. They are manufactured by Huntsman Textile Effects, which
purchased the global Textile Effects business of Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. in
2006.
Textile Dyes used for silk
Acid dyes are used to dye protein fibers such as wool, angora, cashmere, and silk,
as well the milk protein fiber called Silk Latte, the soy protein fiber called Soy
Silk, and the synthetic polyamide fiber nylon.
Acid dyes sound scary to some novices, who imagine that the dyes themselves are
caustic strong acids. In fact, the dyes are non-caustic, are in some cases non-toxic,
and are named for the mild acid (such as vinegar) used in the dyeing process, and
for the types of bonds they form to the fiber. Some of them are significantly more

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toxic than fiber reactive dyes, while others are even safe enough to eat, and are
sold as food coloring.
Marabou silk colour hand dye
Silk fabrics can be dyed very easily and individually with Marabu-Silk Color. The
versatile selection of colours offers both up to the minute fashionable shades and
classic basic shades.
Silk dyed with Marabu-Silk Color will have exceptional colour brilliance,
permanent light fastness and incredibly soft feel. Marabu-Silk Color is extremely
wash-resistant when washed by hand and also dry-clean-resistant directly after the
dyeing process. In combination with Marabu-Contours & Effects, Marabu-Velvet
Touch (as photo) and thickened Marabu-Silk, which are applied after dyeing, brand
new dimensions in silk fabric design can be created. With the help of MarabuStencils and Marabu-Design Stamps creating something individual is very easy.
Definition of Auxiliaries
A chemical or formulated chemical product which enables a
processing operation in preparation, dyeing, printing or finishing to be carried
out more effectively, or whichis essential if a given effect is to be obtained.
Necessity of auxiliaries in textile dyeing
(a) To prepare or improve the substrate in readiness for coloration by scouring,
bleaching and desizing
wetting
enhancing the whiteness by a fluorescent brightening effect
(b)To modify the sorption characteristics of colorants by acceleration
retardation
creating a blocking or resist effect
providing sites for sorption
unifying otherwise divergent rates of sorption
improving or resisting the migration of dyes
(c) To stabilize the application medium by improving dye solubility
stabilizing a dispersion or solution
thickening a print paste or pad liquor
inhibiting or promoting foaming
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 forming an emulsion
scavenging or minimizing the effects of impurities
preventing or promoting oxidation or reduction
(d) To protect or modify the substrate by creating or resisting dye ability
lubricating the substrate
protecting against the effects of temperature and other processing conditions
(e) To improve the fastness of dyeing, as in the after treatment of direct or
reactive dyes
the after treatment of acid dyes on nylon
the chroming of mordant dyes on wool or nylon
inhibitors of gas-fume fading back-scouring or reduction clearing
(f)To enhance the properties of laundering formulations (fluorescent
brighteningagents).
Auxilliaries used with different dyes
Dyes for Cellulosic Fibers
Direct Dyes (Anionic):
They can be dyed directly on cellulosic fibers.Without the presence of salt, when
the fibers are immerged in water, it will showanionic charge which repels the
dyes. Adding salt into the dye bath, it will reduce anionic on the fibers so
the dyes can get closer and adsorb into the fibers.
Advantage: cheap, easily dyed on fibers
Disadvantage: poor wet fastness and some dyes have poor light fastness.
Textile Auxiliaries:
1. Salt - reduce negative charges on the fibers2. Water - dyeing media3. Fixing
Agent - enhance wet fastness but usually reduce light fastness
Dyeing Conditions:
(Exhaustion): dyeing lOOoC x 30-90 mm fixing 6OoC x 20 mm.(Continuous) pad
--> dry --> steam --> wash --> soap --> dry
Reactive Dyes (Anionic):
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They can be dyed on cellulosic fibers. The mechanism isnearly the same as
described in direct dyes.
Advantage:
high wet fastness due to covalent bonding (Chemical Bonding) betweenfibers and
dyes, easily dyed on fibers.
Disadvantage:
Expensive.
Dyeing Conditions:
1. Continuous Process:
1.1Pad-dry-bake This is very easy method for cotton or cotton blends fibers.
1.2Pad-dry-Pad (Chemical)-Steam This will give brighter and more
intense color than method 1.1.
1.3Pad-batch This will put the goods into the dye solution and squeeze with 2
rubber rollers to get rid of excess water and then batch at room temperature for 1-2
days.
2. Exhaustion Process:
This method will be used in small factory. Dyeing conditionswill be 40-8OoC for
30-90 mm depending to the types and structures of the dyes.
Textile Auxiliaries:
1. Salt - reduce negative charges on the fibers
2. Water - dyeing media.
3. Soda Ash - excite the dye to link with the fibers with covalent bonding.
Therefore it enhances wet fastness
4. Fixing Agent - enhances wet fastness for heavy shade but usually
reduce lightfastness.
Vat Dye (Anionic when soluble):
The dye is named from the container (Vat) that used for rotting the
dye with alkalis o l u t i o n . T h i s c r u c i a l p r o c e s s w i l l r e d u c e t h e
d y e f r o m i n s o l u b l e t o s o l u b l e d y e (suitable for exhaustion in the
cellulosic fibers). Now the manufacturer cansynthesizeman-made vat dye.

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Dyeing Process:
1. Dissolve dye into water (insoluble dye)
2. Vatting process by reducing the insoluble dye in alkali condition. (Soluble dye)
3. Absorb into fibers (soluble dye)
4. After dyeing, oxidize the dye with oxidizing agent (insoluble dye)5. Wash and
soap the goods
Dyeing Conditions:1. Continuous Process
1.1 Pad-dry-Pad (Chemical):
The solution of the dye is prepared without adding reducing agent to
ensure leveling dyeing. After that, the goods are passed to chemical bath to
reduce the dye into soluble dye and fix within the goods. Oxidizing
agent isadded to the goods and converted to insoluble dyes.
1.2 Pad-oxidize-pad-oxidize (many times):
This will put the goods into the dyesolution and squeeze with 2 rubber rollers to
get rid of excess water, oxidize with theair and then immerse into the dye solution
again and again to allow the dye penetrateinto the goods.
Textile Auxiliaries
1. Salt - reduce the negative charges on the fibers
2 . Sodium hydroxide - adjusts pH to the dyeing bath and makes the
suitableconditions for reducing agent.
3. Sodium hydrosulfite - reducing agent for the vat dyes.
4. Water - dyeing media
5. Oxidizing agents - (Hydrogen peroxide or Acetic acid or Air) oxidize the soluble
toinsoluble dye
Acid Dye (Anionic):
The dye is called acid because it needs acidic dyeing condition.It can be dyed on
protein fibers (silk, wool, and other animal fibers) and on polyamidefibers. Acidic
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condition will give the fibers showing positive charge. As the negativecharge will
attach directly to positive charge, and penetrate into the fibers.
Dyeing conditions:
l00 x 30-60 mm
Textile Auxiliaries:
1. Leveling agent - for levelness dyeing.
2. Retarding agent - for inhibiting the dye not attach to fibers too fast.
3. Acid - adjust the dyeing condition and make the fibers to show positive charges.
4. Water - dyeing media.
Basic Dye (Cationic)
The dye shows positive charge. Normally, the dye can be applied on
wool, silk and poly-acrylonitrile (acrylic).Dyeing Conditions:l00oC x 30-60 mm
Dyes Dyeing Condition (pH)Acid (Wool) 2-4, 4-6, 6-8 (depends on types of
dyes)Acid (Nylon) 4.5-5.5, on types of dyes)Basic 3.5-4Direct 7.0Disperse
(Polyester) 5-6Disperse (Acetate) 6.5-7.0Disperse (Triacetate) 4.5-6.5Reactive 7.0
(Exhaustion)11.0 (Fixing)
Textile Auxiliaries:
1. Leveling agent - for levelness dyeing.
2. Retarding agent - for inhibiting the dye not attach to fibers too fast.
3. Acid - adjust the dyeing condition and make the fibers to show negative
charges.
4. Water - dyeing media.
Synthesis of Reactive Auxiliaries for Dye Resist
T r e a t m e n t o f Wool
Auxiliary products of various types are commonly used in the dye bath during the
lowtemperature dyeing of wool. Such chemicals are used to promote dye
bathexhaustion and to achieve level dyeing . A resist process may be defined as
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onewhich modifies a textile fiber in such away that when the resist treated fiber
issubsequently dyed, it absorbs dye to a lesser extent or at a slower rate than
untreatedfiber. Various treatments have been proposed for imparting dye resist
effects to wool,for example, sulphonation,acetylation, glyoxylation, deposition of
polymers, alkalinechlorination and treatment with formaldehyde,sulphamic acid,
tannic acid/metalsalts, synthetic tanning agents and also colourless
reactive compound.Among them reactive dye resist agents are
preferred due to their easy handling and application. A viable dye resist
agent must be completely cured and bound firmlyto the wool substrate in order to
achieve satisfactory dye resist effects. Increasingthe substantivity between the
substrate and the dye resist agents is one of the mostimportant factors needed to
improve dye resist effects.In order to increase thissubstantivity one possible
effective dye resist method would be to covalently bind thedye resist agents to the
wool substrate using suitable fiber reactive groups. In thiswork we synthesized
three reactive auxiliaries containing s-triazine based reactivegroups which were
used for treating wool. Three acid dyes containing differentnumber of sulphonic
acid groups were used for dyeing treated wool

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List OfSuppliers

Adhik Chemicals - Manufacturer and exporter of solvents, dyes, pigment,

and intermediates.
Airedale Chemical Co. Ltd. - Supplier of dyes, dyestuffs, and chemical
products for the textiles, agricultural, and aluminium industries.
Alabama Pigments Company - Producer of black and natural red iron
oxide pigments.
ALPS Industries - Manufactures natural dyes, cotton products, dye fibres,
and yarns.
Ama Herbal Laboratories - Manufacturer of extracts of eco-friendly
natural dyes for textile and hair.
Amantech - Importer of Indian pigments, dyes, food colours, and raw
materials for the coatings industry.
Ambuja Intermediate Products Pvt. Ltd. - Manufacturer of dye
intermediates, dyestuffs, and pigments.
American Colors, Inc. - Coloration systems for the plastics and coatings
industries.
Amichem Corporation - Manufactures metallic salts, organic, inorganic,
and basic chemicals.
Anar Chemicals - Manufactures synthetic organic dyes, pigments, and
intermediates.
Apollo Chemical Corporation - Supplier of textile chemicals.
ArunChemi-Dyes - Manufacturer and exporter of sodium naphthionate,
betahydroxynapthoic acid, bon acid, and parachloro aniline.
Asian Dyestuff Industries - Manufactures reactive, direct, and acid dyes
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and pigment powders.

Atlas Dye-Chem Industries - Manufactures reactive dyes.
B.R. Group - Distributing pigments, dyes, and other chemical products.
Bajaj Group of Companies - Manufactures dyes and dyes intermediates,
as well as roasted peanuts and peanut butter.
CDR Pigments & Dispersions - Manufactures colorants and varnishes for
ink, plastic and paint applications.
Chemco India - Manufacturer and exporter of basic, solvent, and acid dyes,
as well as food colours.
Chemical Factory Triade - Makes dyestuffs and pigments for the textile,
paper, and leather industries.
Chemrez - Manufacturer of paints and coatings, inks, resins, and colorants.
China Wellton Chemical Co. Ltd. - Providing organic pigment, pigments
printing paste, dispersion dye, and more.
Cleveland Pigment & Color Co. - Processes pigments for rubber, plastics,
and other industries.
ColoresNaturales de Chile - Producing and manufacturing cochineal
extracts and derived carmines for the food and cosmetic industries.
Colorwen International Corp. - Serves domestic and international markets
with dry pigments, presscake, water-based ink, colour paste,
colourmasterbatch, pigment flush, and inkjet inks.
Coltech Chemicals - Manufactures copper phthalocyanine green.
Coral Group - Iron oxide red and black manufacturer.
Creanova, Inc. - Provides tinters, inks, biocides, raw materials, and
additives to industry.
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 Daemyung Industry - Producing dyeing, printing, pretreatment, and sizing

chemicals for the textile trade.
Deepak Chemicals Group - Manufactures pigments, dyes, and dye
intermediates.
Delta Colours - Colour pigments for the paint, plastics, ink, and
construction industries.
Devarsons Industries Limited - Makes pigments and dyes.
Dyetex Corporation - Manufactures synthetic, intermediate, coaltar, and
colorant dyes.
Elian - Masterbatch and colorant manufacturer for plastics coloration.
Farbenchem International - Marketing dyes, dye intermediates, pigments,
and pigment intermediates.
Gopal Chemicals - Manufacturing food colours.
Gwalior Oil Mills - Makers of oil, paints, resins, and pigments.
Hangzhou Pigment Chemicals Plant - Exporter and manufacturer of
organic pigment, anthraquinone and h-acid.
Hastand - Offer a range of chemicals, including pigments, dyestuffs, and
pharmaceutical raw materials.
Hebei Jiehong Dyestuff Chemical Corporation - Tianjin Dept.@
HebeiLuquanXingyu Chemical Factory - Manufacturer of dyestuffs
including basic red, basic violet, monochloroacetic acid, fluorescent
brighteners, thiourea dioxide, and 6-chloro-2-hexanone.
HebeiQuzhouChenguang Natural Pigment Co.,Ltd - Manufacturer of
natural pigment for foodstuffs including red chillicolour, extract,
chilliflavouring essence, xanthophylls, and more.

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 HebeiWuqiangRuixin Chemical Co. - Manufacturer of organic pigment

and intermediates, including basic green, basic orange, and others.
HebeiXihai Dyestuff Group Co., Ltd. - Offering intermediates, direct
dyes, reactive dyes, and more.
Hema Chemical - Manufactures organic dyes and intermediates.
Holland Colours - Produces pigments and pigment dispersions mainly for
the plastics industry worldwide.
Indo Colchem Ltd. - Manufactures dyes and intermediates.
Industrial Colours and Chemicals Limited - Supplier of dyes and
pigments to manufacturing industries such as, paint and coating, graphic
arts, plastics and rubber, paper, and more.
JagsonColchem - Makes reactive dyes including acids and direct dyes.
JyotiColours - Manufacturer and exporter of organic and inorganic
pigments, dyes, metallic powder, oils, and resins. Based in Bangalore, India.
Karnavati Chemicals - Manufactures monochloro acetic acid.
Kerr-McGee Corporation - Energy and inorganic chemical company with
worldwide operations.
Kiburn
Chemicals Manufactures
titanium dioxide,
sulphateheptahydrate, mixed sulphate salt, and ferro gypsum.

ferrous

Kromachem - Chemicals and pigments for the coatings industries and

silicone rubber for mould making.
Kronos, Inc. - Hightstown, NJ - Anatase/rutile titanium dioxide pigment for
whiteness, brightness and opacity in paints, coatings, plastics, paper, ink,
fibres and ceramics.
Kumar Textile Industries - Products include direct, reactive, acid, and

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basic dyes.
LuenShing Company - Hong Kong-based enterprises specialising in
auxiliary, dyestuff, and chemical products for the fur and leather industries.
Magruder Color Company - Manufacturer of dry and flushed pigments
for sheetfed, web offset, heatset, news, aqueous and solvent inks.
Mahavir Chemicals - Exporter of acid, pigment, leather, and non bezidine
dyes.
Manan Ceramic Colours - Manufacturers and suppliers of zirconium
oxide, high and low temperature ceramic colours, glass colours, reactive frit,
and related glazes.
Meilida Pigment Industry Company - Manufactures organic pigment and
intermediates, mainly phthalocyanine blue series products.
Nanjing New Chemicals Import and Export Corporation - Manufacturer
and exporter of disperse dyestuffs, solvent dyestuffs, chemical intermediates,
and pigments.
Narayan Group of Industries - Offers pigments, copper salts, and more.
Neelikon Food Dyes & Chemicals - Makes writing ink, fluorescent
pigments, and colours for food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics.
Ningbo Huajie Chemical - Manufacturer and exporter of disperse dyes,
pigments, intermediates, and other chemical products.
Nova Dyestuff Industries - Manufactures and exports dyes, auxiliaries,
intermediates, and more.
Novasoft Systems - Manufacturing natural and synthetic dyes.
Organic Dyestuffs, Inc. - Manufacturers of dyes and auxiliaries for all
industries.
Orient Corporation of America - Manufacturer of dyes and pigments for
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plastics, inks, toners, charge control agents, leather, and anodized

aluminium.
Parikh Enterprises Limited - Manufacturers and exporters of copper
fungicides, copper chemicals, copper pigments, cpc blue like copper
sulphate, and bordeaux.
Plasticolors, Inc. - Supplier of colorants and chemical dispersions for the
plastics industry.
Prem Dye Chem Industries - Manufactures acid, direct, and leather dyes.
Recent Laboratories - Manufacturer
indigeniously developed products.

of

alkali

cyanates.

Offers

Renshel Exports - Manufactures aleuritic acid and shellac products.

Ritchemie - Manufacturers and suppliers of dyes.
Rossari - Products include dyes, intermediates, and enzymes for textiles
and leather.
Sajjan India Ltd. - Manufacturing and exporting dyes and dye
intermediates.
Sanyo Color Works, Ltd. - Manufacturing pigments, dyes, functional
pigments, cationic pigment-dyes, pigment dispersions, and more.
Saraf Chemical Industries - Processes and exports granite blocks, slabs,
tiles, marble, slate, and sandstone as well as reactive, acid, and direct dyes.
Sarichem Dyestuff - Offers a wide range of dyestuff.
ShidimoInteraux - Manufacturer and exporter of acid , acid milling, metal
complex, and solvent dyes. Also, dye intermediates, and textile auxiliaries.
Shree Polymers - Manufactures pigment emulsions and binders.
Shreenath Dye Chem Industries - Manufactures vat pastes, pigments,
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emulsions, and textile auxilaries.

Sinlai Industries Corp. - Colours (dye/pigment), fine and speciality
chemicals and pharmaceuticals suppliers.
Soujanya Enterprises - Specialists in pigments and pigment dispersion for
use in paint, soap, detergent and printing ink.
Sparkle India - Manufactures pigments, dyes, and colours for plastics,
paints, leather, textiles, and printing inks.
Specialised Industrial Chemicals Ltd - Supplies speciality inks and
chemicals to British and European industries covering the automotive,
electronics, marine, and engineering sectors.
Spectra Colors Corporation - Industrial inks, dyes and colorants for all
needs.
Spectrum Dyes & Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. - Manufacture disperse dyes for
use in the textile industry.
Stallion Impex, Ltd. - Manufactureres of reactive, direct and acid
dyestuffs.
Standardcon - Manufacturers and exporters of aluminium lake and food
colours.
Stoopen&Mee S.A. - Pigments and dyes for woods, cement, plastics,
printing, food, and more, specially formulated by request.
Sudarshan Chemical Industries - Manufactures and markets a range of
paint, plastic, and ink pigments as well as agricultural chemicals and
environmental products
Sun Chemical - Manufacturer of printing inks, coatings and organic
pigments.
Sunbelt Corporation

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 Tabercolor - Printing inks for paper and PVC surfaces, pigment

dispersions, and more.
Texchem - Manufacturers of chemical products for textile dyeing and
finishing.
Thirumalai Chemicals - Manufactures and markets industrial chemicals
for the plastics, paints, resin industries, and additives for the food and feed
industry.
TOR Minerals International - Markets and manufactures pigments for
paints, plastics, and other products that require colorization.
U H International - Chemical company in India, developing and suppling
food colours, dyes, flavours, and fragrances globaly.
Ushanti - Offers dyestuff, pigment, colour matching, and intermediate
processes.
Vidhi Dyestuffs Manufacturing Ltd. - Manufacturers and exporters of
food colours.
Vinayak Corporation - Manufacturers of menthol, food colours, essential
oils, aromatic chemicals, and dyes.
Vipul Dye Chem Limited - Manufactures pigment emultions, solvent
colours and acid dyes.
Zhe Jiang Wan Tong Chemical - Manufacturer and exporter of disperse
dyes. Includes company profile and online inquiry form.
Zydex Industries - Supplies textile polymers, printing thickeners,
coatings, dispersants, and other finishing chemicals.

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Bibliography

Books referred:
1. B.P.Corbman
2. Chemistry of dyes & principles of dyeing
3. V.A.Shenai
4. Tortora
5. Hurst
6. NCUTE Progress series
Websites referred:
1. www.wikipidea.com
2. file:///I:/dnp/Paula%20Burch's%20About%20Dyes.htm
3. file:///I:/dnp/Rainbow%20Silks%20%20%20Fabric%20Dyes.htm
4. file:///I:/dnp/Process%20for%20dyeing%20cellulosic%20...%20%20Google%20Patents.htm#v=onepage&q=Textile%20dyes%20and
%20auxiliaries%20for%20cellulosic%20materials&f=false
5. file:///I:/dnp/DyStar%20-%20World%20of%20Textiles.htm
6. file:///I:/dnp/Dyeing%20Auxiliaries,Textile%20Dyeing
%20Auxiliaries,Dyeing%20Auxiliaries%20Importers%20India.htm
7. file:///I:/dnp/Clariant%20Textile%20Chemicals%20-%20-%20Special
%20Dyes.htm
8. file:///I:/Aurora%20Silk%20-%20Natural%20&%20Plant%20Dyes.htm
9. file:///I:/Yahoo!%20India%20Directory%20%20%20Pigment%20and
%20Dye%20Manufacturers%20and%20Distributors.htm
10. A study of textile Dyeing Auxiliaries.htm

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