Summer Internship Project Report

ON

FUNCTIONING OF AN EXPORT HOUSE

Submitted in partial fulfilment of requirement of Bachelor of Commerce in
Honors (B.Com H.)

Guru Gobind Singh Indraprastha University

B.Com (H), 5th Semester
Batch 2014-2017

Submitted to:
Mrs Rupsha Burman
Assistant Professor

Submitted by:
ROHIT SINGH
00514188814

JAGANNATH INTERNATIONAL MANAGEMENT SCHOOL

KALKAJI, NEW DELHI

STUDENTS UNDERTAKING
I hereby certify that this is my original work & it has not been submitted elsewhere.
ROHIT SINGH
PROJECT GUIDEs
Faculty Name :- Rupsha Burma
Designation ;- Assistant Professor at Jagannath International Management School

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INDEX

PAGE

TITLE PAGE

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

DEDICATION

SUMMER INTERNSHIP CERTIFICATE

EVALUATION FORM

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

COMPANY PROFILE

ABOUT COMPANY

11

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

19

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

20

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

28

FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

30

FABRIC STORE

31

FABRIC INPECTION

34

TRIMS STORE

36

CAD DEPARTMENT

38

SPREADING DEPARTMENT

43

SEWING DEPARTMENT

49

WASHING DEPARTMENT

51

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

52

PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

53

REFERANCE

57

TITLE PAGE:

A report is based on Six week internship at JJ FABTEX PVT LTD

Prepared by ROHIT SINGH

The project will be in under the guidance of Mrs. RUPSHA BURMA,
Date of submission on .

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
It is a matter of great satisfaction and pleasure to present my summer internship
report at JJ FABTEX PVT LTD on FUNCTIONING OF AN EXPORT HOUSE.
I further wish to place on record my deep sense of gratitude to Mr. Mayank Dixit
for his excellent guidance and constant encouragement in all the stages of my
project work and for sparing his valuable time for providing me with his
suggestions.
I express my profound gratitude to Mr.Sanjeev Singh for providing help and a
congenial work environment, which was a catalyst for a great learning experience.
I am deeply indebted to Rupsha Mam for their valuable contribution during the
academic session.
Last but not the least, I would like to thank everyone I was associated with, whose
names have remained unmentioned here, but who have contributed by giving me a
sharp and gratifying imminent approach and insight during the course of my
project.
I would like to grab this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude to
Ms.PartibhaKathuria(Merchandiser),Ms.Kanika (Merchandiser) for guiding me
through all the processes involved in the processing of the fabric and was patient
enough to answer all my doubts and queries.
I would specially like to thank all the staff members and workers for helping me
throughout the internship. Without their support, it would have been difficult job to
successfully complete the training.
ROHIT SINGH

SUMMER INTERNSHIP CERTIFICATE

EVALUATION FORM

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
In the past two decades, the Indian textile industry in terms of home textile,
garments and accessories have a witnessed a complete transformation in terms of
quality, market and product development as well as the expansion, In this scenario
export house plays the major role in the growth and conduct of exports. Looking
from this perspective JJ Fabtex Pvt ltdis a very good and important organization in
its work.
Internship at JJ Fabtex Pvt Ltd has been a great exposure for the practical
application of my learning. I gained knowledge about actual work culture of the
company and how to deal with the people at workplace.
I did my internship in Production, Merchandising and Sampling Department.
OBJECTIVE
Objective of the study is to learn about the functioning of export house and
working of various departments particularly production, merchandising and
sampling, earning knowledge about different departments of the company, their
function and information flow during work.
DATA COLLECTION METHOD
I Collected this by following method Personal interview from various departments.
Close observation during work.
Internal data from various departments.
And secondary data was collected from the internet.

COMPANY PROFILE

COMPANY NAME

JJ FABTEX PVT LTDPVT LTD

ADDRESS

A-87,sector-63,Noida-201303
G.B. Nagar(U.P)

TELEPHONE

0120-4307818

E-MAIL

fabrics@jjfabtex.com

WEBSITE

YEAR ESTD.

2003

Market

100% EXPORT

OWNER

Mr. Mayank Dixit

Mr. Kapil Jain

DIRECTOR

Mr. Manoj Jain

ANNUAL TURNOVER

30 Crores

TOTAL WORKING FORCE

600

MONTHLY PRODUCTION

150000 pcs

JJ FABTEX PVT.
LTD.
MANUFACTURER & EXPORTER OF
READYMADE GARMENTS

10

ABOUT THE COMPANY

With a strong hold on varied market segments across the world JJ FABTEX PVT
LTD are recognized as a reputed garment manufacturing company. Incepted in
the year 2003, they have acquired immense design expertise that helps us in
meeting the diverse requirements of their global clientele.
They are manufacturers, exporters and suppliers of exclusively designed &
fabricated Ladies, Girls & New Born apparel Woven and Knits.
They have state-of-the art facilities comprising in-house computer embroidery
facility, washing facilities and a sophisticated array of machinery.
These facilities assist us in producing a quality assured range of garments for
their valued clients.
Ever since its inception, JJ Fabtex Pvt ltd has never looked back. Growing with
Strength as well as value it has achieved the production capacity of 150000
PCS. Garments per Month.

11

 Product Categories Ladies-wear (60%) and girls wear NB,

Infant, Toddler, 4-14 (40%).
Fabrics predominantly woven fabrics solids & printed voiles, cambric,
poplin, yarn dyed (mainly auto-loom & mill-made), complete range of
polyester fabrics, viscose, mill made twill, canvas, denims. They are also
doing woven knit combo wherein top is mainly woven and bottom
leggings in s/l ctnlycra + poly s/j linings for see through dresses & tops in
polyester.

Factory Capacities They operate 500 machines, approx. 125,000

150,000 pcs per month with in-house computer embroidery with sequin
attachment (60 heads) & complete laundry facilities
(enzyme/bleach/silicon/bio/softener wash, perc (petrol-free) machine for
dry cleaning). They have complete in-house cut to pack facilities,
including a highly capable product development and sampling
department.

Buyer for Ladies-wear

Bon prix Germany
George UK
Cia Hering Brazil
Tema Turkey
Ali & Kris-USA
Adrienne Papelle USA
Anotah UAE

 Tape a l Oeil France

12

 Foschini South Africa

Rene Derhy-France.
Buyer for kids-wear
George-UK
Morrisons UK
Baby shop-UAE
Bon Prix Germany
Disney (for baby Shop and George, since we are a FAMA certified
Disney facility).
Social Compliance The factories are Sedex certified, BSCI
approved, Disney & Wal-Mart certified, CT-PAT compliant.
Design and Product Development They believe in investing in best
talent available creative talent in the market to get something on the table
for our principals as our own initiative and hence, we have a full-fledged
in-house design, product development and sampling department .they
assure you that you shall get fresh ideas and bodies from us every season.
QUALITY CONTROL
The Factory is equipped with STATE-OF-THE-ART Imported Stitching
and washing machines. The internal quality control systems ensure that
Goods of highest quality are shipped to their customers.

13

FACTORY LAYOUT
FLOORS

DEPARTMENTS

BASEMENT

Stitching
a. Fabric Store

GROUND

b. Trim Store
c. Cutting Department
d. Human Resource
a.CEO office

ST

b. Showroom
c. Director office
d. Merchandising
e. Stitching
f. Sampling
g. Quality
h. IT & Accounts

2ND

Finishing&Packing

3RD

Washing

14

1
5

Work flow
BUYER
PRODUCT DEVELOPER
MERCHANT
SAMPLING
FABRIC
TESTING
MARKER PLANNING
SPERADING
CUTTING
BUNDLING
RESEARCH& DEVELOPMENT
PRODUCTION
WASHING
FINISHING&PRESSING
PACKING
16

LIST OF MACHINERY
1) BROTHER SINGLE NEEDLE HIGH SPEED LOCKSTITCH MACHINE

400

2) BROTHER DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH SPLIT FEED MACHINE

20

3) BROTHER COMPUTERISED BARTECK MACHINE

04

4) BROTHER BUTTON HOLE MACHINE

04

5) BROTHER COMPUTERISED CROSS-STITCH LOCKSTITCH BUTTONING

MACHINE

04

6) WAIST BAND ATTACHMENT MACHINE

04

7) 5 THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE

25

8) EASTMAN CUTTING MACHINE

02

9) BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE WITH

AIR CUSHION TABLE

01

10) AUTOMATIC SNAP FASTNER WITH COMPRESSOR

10

11) FUSING PRESS (HASIMA-CONTINOUS FEED)

02

12) ENZYME WASHERS NGAI SHING

04

13) RAMSONS 200 KG CAPACITY WASHER

01

14) HYDRO

03

17

15) DRYING TUMBLER NGAI SHING

03

16) HEATED VACUUM TABLES NGAI SHING

20

17) STEAM PRESSES NGAI SHING

20

18) THREAD SUCKING MACHINE

02

19) REECE KEY HOLE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE

02

20) FEED OF THE ARM

02

21) AUTOMATIC STICKERING MACHINE

12

22) CARTON STRAPPING AUTOMATIC MACHINE

02

23) PERC DRY CLEANING MACHINE

02

24) CINTEX & LOCK NEEDLE DETECTOR M/Cs

02

25) SPOTTING STATION MACHINE

02

26) COMPUTERIZED EMBROIDERY MACHINE

82

27) THREAD WINDING MACHINE

02

28) LAYER DRILLING MACHINE

02

29) FLAT LOCK MACHINE

02

30) FOUR THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE

04

31) FLAT LOCK WITH TRIMMER

02

32) YKK NEWMAX SNAP ATTACHING MACHINE

02

33)SIRUBA/KANSAI 12 NEEDLE SMOCKING MACHINE

02

18

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

In the context of garment export business normally product development is

handled by design department. But where there is no design team, merchants are
responsible for whole production development process. In export houses sampling
department is considered as product development department.
CLASSIFICATION

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INTERNAL DESIGNING

EXTERNAL DESIGNING

TECH PACK
OWN DESIGN
LINE

INSPIRATIONAL

19

MECHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Merchandising is a specialized management functions within the fashion industry.
It is the business that moves the world fashion from designers showroom to retail
sales floor and in to the hands of consumers. It is the internal planning that takes
place within a retail organization in order ensures adequate amount of
merchandise are on hand to be sold at prices that the consumers are willing to pay
to profitable operation.
Following are the responsibilities of merchandisers which gives importance to
them
1. Internal& external communication,
2. Sampling,
3. Lab dips,
4. Accessories& trims,
5. Preparing internal order sheets,
6. Preparing purchase orders,
7. Advising and assisting production,
8. Advising quality department about quality level,
9. Mediating production and quality departments,
10.Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
11.Helping documentation department,
12.Taking responsibility for inspections and Following shipment.
20

PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

TECH PACK COMES FROM BUYER

INITIAL SAMPLING AND COSTING

GET ORDER FROM THE BUYER

ORDER CONFORMATION

BUDGETING

WITH BUYER

INTERNAL

RE SAMPLE /PROTO

MATERIAL INDENT

TYPE APPROVAL

(TRIMS DETAILS)

FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL

FAVRIC PROGARAM

(FABRIC DETAILS)

FPT APPROVAL

PP SAMPLE

GPT SAMPLE

TOP SAMPLE APPROVAL

LOT APPROVAL
SIZE SET SAMPLE APPROVAL

SHIPMENT INSPECTION AND FINAL SHIPPING

21

PURCHASE ORDER

PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of JJ Fabtex Pvt

Ltd; it is an evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of
company.

Po include the following information-

1. Delivery date

6. Terms if sale

2. FOB

7. Currency

3. Ship cancel date

8. L/C

4. Destination

9. Quantity

5. Ship mode

10. Size break up / colour break up

JJ FABTEX PVT LTD USEES WFX ERP SOFTWARE

In company employee work on WFX ERP software for making challan, purchase
order, indent etc. its very simple and useful software
Apparel
merchandising
maythe
befollowing
defined&
asfactors
all the
planning
activities
involvedexport
right
thebybuyer
communication
order
receiving
till&the
execution or
shipment
of thefrom
order
fulfilling
(Six
Rights):
Right Merchandise: Retailers must fill their shelves with the merchandise that
customer wants.
Right Place: The location of the merchandise is of prime importance since it
decides the accessibility. Much merchandise is seasonal in nature and must be on
hand when it is most needed.
Right Time: Much merchandise is seasonal in nature and must be on hand when it
is most needed.
Right Quantity: A profitable balance between volume of sales and amount of
inventory is the desired goal.
Right Price: Merchandiser must arrive at a price that is high enough to give the
store profit and yet low enough to meet the competition and customers
expectations.
Right Promotion: Right balance between the investment and the appeal created
for the customers.
The successful execution of any garment export order depends on the work
performance of a merchandiser. Merchandiser is the person who plans and
coordinates all the activities right from the order procuring and till the
shipment order. A merchandiser should have the comprehensive knowledge of
his work procedures and responsibilities so that he could perform his job
efficiently and effectively. In the apparel export industry, a merchandiser has to
perform the following functions;

Communication:
It communicate
is one of the foremost
functions
of of
merchandiser
the
merchandiser
has to
with different
levels
people in hisbecause
day to day
activities.
Planning & Programming: A merchandiser has to check the order requirement,
planning for the given order, programming for various activities, proper allocation
of work to the assistants.
Follow ups: It includes sending of samples at various stages of order, buyer and
buyer house for sample and other approvals.
Decision making: A merchandiser has to make several decisions during the order
processing like giving approvals like fabrics, color, design, accessories, and
packing, selection of suppliers and vendors, selection of buyers, sometimes time
extensions for order shipment.
Sourcing & Purchasing: A merchandiser may have to do sourcing and purchasing
for raw materials and accessories, suppliers and vendors, new designs, new buyers.
Controlling: This is the crucial activities for any merchandiser. A merchandiser
has to make sure that all the activities are carried out as per the planning and
even if there is any deviation, he/she should make the alternatives measures.
given and
period.
Both the controlling
and the
coordinating
activities complement each
other
a merchandiser
has to adopt
both accordingly,
Negotiation: It is the activity of convincing, compromising and cooperation which
would benefit the both parties involved in the negotiation.
Costing: It is the process of estimating the expenditure of a given product and the
subsequent price. It is another crucial function because mostly order
conformation depends on the price offered to the buyers. The merchandiser
should know the current prices and rates of various products and processes to do
the accurate costing.

Meeting: There are two types of meeting a merchandiser has to be involved. First
type, a merchandiser has to conduct the meeting with the concern department in
charges to discuss about the proceedings and the status of the running order. In
second type, a merchandiser has to attend the meeting with the superiors or buyers
or business people in giving reporting or participation or discussion.
Forecasting: Forecasting is the activity of predicting the future happenings or
problems. A merchandiser has to predict the future uncertainties in the current
order or industry so that alternative actions or corrective measures can be taken
in advance this also includes giving suggestion or ideas about new technologies
or new products or latest industry trends.

QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

JJ Fabtex Pvt ltd processes export orders in factories. While raw materials are
converted into garments, there are possibilities to make errors, like making
defective garment components and defective garment. Making defective garment
is a cost to the company. So to make sure garments are made as per customer
requirement and whatever raw materials are sourced must meet the factory
standards, factory establish Quality Control Department.

Function of the quality control department can vary widely. But most common
function of quality control depart are as follows

Quality Inspection of Internal Processes and Outsourced work

Inspection of raw material: Checking of raw materials to ensure there is

no defective or abnormal goods.

Testing of of raw material: Quality control department does not conduct testing
of raw materials but they send sample to testing lab for testing physical and
chemical test. Once factory receive test report, quality control team get
assurance whether raw material to accept or not.

26

Inspection of Sample: Visual inspection and measurement checking is done prior

to sending sample to respective buyers.

Cutting room inspection: Quality department is also inspects work done by

cutting room. Like, layering of fabrics on cutting table, cut layer inspection,
cut component inspection, Bundle inspection etc.

Preparatory work inspection: In high fashion garment, lot preparatory work are
outsourced like, printing, machine embroidery, bead work, special decoration on
garments etc. Before feeding this outsourced goods, quality department checks
and approve for further process (sewing process).

Sewing process: In sewing there are multiple checking process is practiced by

exporters, like, Inline inspection, end of line inspection, stitching quality audit etc.

Finishing Process: Finally quality personnel checks finished and packed goods
and do auditing prior to handover shipment to external inspector.
Quality System Development
To make quality product throughout the garment manufacturing process, factories
need to develop quality system. Quality Control Department is responsible for
setting quality system for the factory.

27

Quality Awareness development

They are also responsible to bring quality awareness among the workers and
all employees.

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

A sample is a proto type of a product to be manufactured in future course of

production. It is also called mock up of a product and is made to check the design
effectiveness and fit of the garment. Sampling is a set of the procedure follow to
produce various sample style. It contains activities like making of the pattern for
proto type according to measurement of the sample with the help of machinery
and getting buyers approvals for sample produce.

In an export house, the sampling department play vital role in the up- lifting of a
unit. This department directly coordinates with the merchandising dept. and
production dept. sampling is done to see how the product will look when
produce in bulk and to check discrepancies in the pattern are.

28

STEP OF SAMPLING

PROTO TYPE SAMPLE MADE

FIT SAMPLE MADE

PP SAMPLE MADE

TOP SAMPLE

SIZE SET MADE

SHIPPMENT SAMPLE MADE

29

FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

SOURCING DEALS with getting information about material form different

sources then selecting the best material which suits over budget and buyers
specification.

Fabric sourcing means souring the right kind of fabric which fulfils the
specification. Fabric sourcing department is quite important as more than 90%of
garment is fabric and approximately 70% cost of garment is due to the fabric cost.

Selecting the right quality of the fabric as per the buyers specification otherwise it
may lead to cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The
fabric sourcing department gets the fabric sample from the vendor. These samples
are tested before sending to buyer for approval. After the buyer approves the
sample, the fabric is order for bulk production.
TYPE OF FABRIC
Predominantly woven fabrics solids & printed voiles, cambric, poplin, yarn dyed
(mainly auto-loom & mill-made), complete range of polyester fabrics, viscose,
mill made twill, canvas, denims.
We are also doing woven knit combo wherein top is mainly woven and bottom
leggings in s/l ctnlycra + poly s/j linings for see through dresses & tops in
polyester.

30

Step followed for fabric purchasing:

1. Market trends enquiry

2. Vendor folders in- house swatches
3. Display to buyer
4. After approval from the buyer swatch is send for the sampling ( 5- 10 meter
of fabric)
FABRIC STORE

Fabric storehouse actual are where the fabric for production is receive or
dispatched for processing. Beside storage the fabric store department is also
responsible for the inspection of good receives by it.

31

PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE

FABRIC DESPATCH FROM MILL

FABRIC RECIVING

SOLID /YARN
DYED
/PRINTED

GRIEGEFABRIC

SEND IT FOR PROCESSING

BACK TO INHOUSE AFTER DYING OR PRINTING

100% CHECKING (4 POINT SYSTEM)

METER CHECKING BY SECURITY GUARD

LOT MAKING AND SEND IT TO MERCHANDISING

QUALITY CHECKING FOR DEFECTS

KEPT IN STORE

32

STORAGE
Rack system of storage is followed i.e. packages are stored in two areas:
1. Check fabric
2. Unchecked fabric
They are further segregated on the basic of style no. and lot wise. The fabric
rolls are put in rack manual way. Such systematic maintenance of the store
makes it easy to make the fabric whenever needed in future.

ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE:

The merchant receives the purchase order from the buyer. On the basis of this
purchase order, the fabric source prepares a requisition for fabric as per the
demand of the buyer and raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. The best deal
and the vendor are finalized and the order is placed. The factory may send the yarn
from the store to the fabricator for fabric production, buy grieve for dyeing or
directly order processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics development
receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor send it from of lot within the
specified the time period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About
5% extra goods are supplied by the vendor.

The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold etc.
each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, color,
GSM, and weight. The goods are weighted and other detailed are reconfirmed
before they store.

33

FABRIC INSPECTION

The fabric being the main contribution to development of our final product i.e. the
garment, it is very important to control its quality indicated by the no. of faults and
various present in it. Identification of these objectionable variations and faults right
at the initial stage to reduce the production time. So once the fabric is in- house it
is immediately sent on a pilot and trolley assembly to inspection.

4 POINT SYSTEM:
4 Point system for fabric inspection is widely used in apparel industry for fabric
quality inspection.
1. Fabric inspection method or preparation.
2. Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect length.
3. Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric
roll.
4. A Check sheet or format for recording data.
5. Knowledge of different types of defects (how a defect looks and
its appearance).
Criteria for giving penalty points
The penalty evaluation points have been given for different length of fabric defect
and dimension of holes.

34

SIZE OF DEFECT

PENALTY
POINTS

Length of defects in fabric (either length or width)

Defects up to 3 inches

Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches

Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches

Defects > 9 inches

4
Holes and openings(largest dimension)

1 inch or less

Over 1 inch

FORMULA TO CALCULATED TOTAL POINT PER YARD

In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq.yds.

Points/100sq.yds

Total points in roll *3937

Fabric length in MTR * fabric width in inch

Example: A fabric roll 120 yards long and 46 inch wide contains
following defects.
35

4 defects up to 3 inch length

4x1

4 points

3 defects from 3 to 6 inch length

3X2

6 points

2 defects from 6 to 9 inch length

2X3

6 points

1 defect over 9 inch length

1X4

4 points

1 hole over 1 inch

1X4

4 points

Total defect points

24 Points

Therefore,

= 24*3937/109.72*46

Points/ 100 sq. Yards

= 18.72 points

120 yards in MTR 120*.9144 = 109.72 MTR

TRIMS STORE

Trims store as the name suggests is a department, which acts as a storehouse for
accessories. It is the place where all the accessories required in an export house,
are stored. Right from sewing thread, needles to packaging material mike poly
bags and taps etc. all are stored in the accessories store.

36

The merchandiser as per buyer specifications order the purchase dept. to buy the
accessories that are used in a particular style of that buyer. Merchandiser prepares a
swatch card containing all the accessories and their quantity in a cycle. These
accessories used in the swatch card are as per the quality and color mentioned and
approve by the buyer. The purchase dept. with help of swatch card prepared by the
merchandiser purchase the required quantity of accessories. The accessories are
purchased 10 15% extra then the required, as the wastage in case of accessories is
more. The receiving dept. then receives these accessories from the vendor and then
checking and testing of these accessories are done. They are checked quality and
color. The accessories like buttons are tested with help of button snap tester.

After all accessories are checked and tested as per the buyers specification then
an accessories approval card is prepared.

After the accessories are received they are stored in the accessory store. The
accessories are stored in different racks. The accessories of a single buyer are
stored in one rack but the different accessories are stored separately from each
other in the same rack. The accessories store also houses the stationary required in
export house.

Now, whenever the production starts the accessories required in production are
issued to the production dept. through an internal channel. A stock register is used
for maintaining records. Thus an accessory store function as a store house for
accessories where all accessories are assembled and kept and also issued to
sampling and production dept. for the garment manufacture.

37

CAD DEPARTMENT
Computer Aided Design (CAD) becomes an essential tool for pattern making and
related jobs in garment industry. In apparel industry CAD Software is used for
pattern making, Grading of pattern, marker making and digitizing manual patterns.
CAD system involves any type of design activities which use of to develop
analyses or modify any engineering or garment design.
TUKA CAD Software which is used for computer aided designing in SANGAR
OVERSEAS.
TUKAcad is an innovative apparel pattern making software that is perfect for
manufacturers and designers of any size. Operating under Microsoft Windows,
TUKAcad allows the user to accurately builds patterns, grade rules and markers for
single styles or entire lines. It is the advanced pattern making, grading and marker
making system that will streamline your production process and reduce operating
expenses.
Fabric Matching
Engineer pattern pieces according to fabric prints, stripes, or plaids. Fabric
print can be transferred to Marker Making for perfect matching. TUKAcad even
accomodates the flaws in warp control.

38

G R AD I N G
Build block libraries with "master grading." Changes made to base pattern are
automatically reflected in entire size range eliminating need to recalculate grade
rules. Easily insert size in between current sizes and the system will
automatically divide the grading in half.

E X P O R T I N G F I L E F O R M AT S

Within TUKAcad, users have the ability to export to multiple file formats.
TUKAcad files can be exported to DXF, AAMA, or ASTM.

39

MARKER MAKING
A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for size of specific
style that are to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making is a process of developing a diagram which is superimposed on
the top of a ground of superimposed piles as a guide for cutting these plies.
It determines the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific style fabric
and distribution sizes.

40

Cut order planning determines:

How many markers are needed?
How many of each size should be in each marker and the number of
plies that will be cut from each marker?

WAYS TO MAKE MARKER MOST EFFICIENT

PATTERN ENGINEERING
An examination of the seam location to ensure the possible placement
of pattern in marker
HEM ALTERATION ALLOWANCES
Means dividing a large panel awkwardly shaped pattern into two pieces
to better accommodation in the marker.
THE SELECTION OF FABRIC WIDTH
The best width depends among other factor on the cost of various fabric
width/ square meter, the typical number of size in a marker, the potential
pattern engineering changes at various width and the marker efficiency
achieve.

WORK FLOW OF SPREADING AND CUTTING

SPREADING

LAYERING

CUTTIN G MANUAL/
AUTOMATIC

TICKETING

FUSING

CHECKING

BUNDLING

TRANSFER TO PRODUCTION

42

SPREADING DEPARTMENT
Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers
of specified length. After fabric is received it is issued to spreading department
for further processing. Spreading is done with the type of fabric, print of fabric
and marker issued by CAD dept.
PROCESS FLOW OF SPRADING
FABRIC IS LOADED ON SPREADING MACHINE

PERFORATRED PAPER IS SPREAD ON SPREADING TABLE

VACCUME IS TURN ON IN THE SPERADING TABLE

AUTOMATIC / MANUAL SPREADING IS DONE

PROPER TENTION IS MAINTAINED WHILE

WHEN FINISHED, VACCUME IS TUREND OFF

MARKER IS SPREAD OVER IT AND PASTED BY TAPE

AIR FLOW IS GIVEN FROM BOTTOM

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CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Cutting means to separate out different garment process from the lay of fabric with
the help of cutting template and devices. It is done to get required shape in
different no. or as a whole to make a complete product. The first stage in the
manufacture if garment is the cutting of material into the necessary pattern shapes.
These patterns are joined to form a garment when large amount of garment style
has to be cut, a lay is created, which consist of many piles of fabric spread one
above the other. Now all the pattern pieces for all sizes are from this lay. The main
objective of the cutting dept. is the cutting of garment parts accurately and
economically and in sufficient value to keep the sewing room supplied with work.

Objective:
To maintain the quality of the cut components.
To cut the raw material in required shape and quality.
Availability of cut components on time.
BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the
production manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager
to cut a given amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in from of a package
file that carries the following details:

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1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and

other trims averages.
2. Measurement sheet
3. Design worksheet of the garment
4. Purchase order
5. Fabric requisition sheet
6. CAD mini marker
7. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colours in which the
patterns are to be cut.
CUTTING AVERAGE
The cutting department duties are not limited to mare cutting of the fabric. It is
responsible for keeping control over the total consumption of fabric per garment
piece cut this consumption is more specifically defined in terms of cutting
average. During marker planning, the CAD rule sends theoretical consumption of
fabric as per its marker, which is calculated as following:

Cutting average = Area of one piece in the marker (cm square)* GSM of the fabric
10,000

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Cutting average is used to determine the cost of raw material that is fabric for
each garment. Hence it is very important that it is maintained airing the bulk

cutting also. The cutting manager finds out his actual cutting averages before the
bulk cutting and tries to keep it close as possible to average predicted by the CAD.

CUTTING SUB DEPARTMENT

1. Layering and spreading
2. Cutting
3. Bundling and ticketing
4. Fusing area
5. QA department

TICKETING

Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed.
Cut components are group together as per their sizes and taken to the checking
table. Here the cut components are inspected for any error. It is very important to
take care that pieces cut from two different bolts of fabric are not mixed up. This
is because within lot there bolt to bolt variation in colour shade.
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FUSING
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are
separated from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to
size of the component to be fused. The component along with the cut fusing
material are kept between to paper sheets and the pack is passed through the
fusing machine by means of temperature and pressure fusing takes place at
particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on
conveyors and the pieces are removed and re-bundled.
Parameters affecting the fusing process:

Pressure Pressure applied to the fabric should be adequate so that

even contact between the interlining and cloth takes place and uniform
heat is supplied to the adhesive. Pressure should be adequate for the
correct penetration of resin among the fibres of fabric.
Temperature It is another important parameter. It depends upon the type
of resin used in fusing process. It should be high enough to change the dry
thermoplastic resin into a molten state so that it can flow properly between
the fabrics. If temperature is low it gives proper low of resin and if is high
it gives to much flow of resin and the resin will come out.
Time Time should also be adequate along with temperature and pressure.
It should be long enough so that melting and penetration of resin among
the fibres of fabric can takes place.

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CHECKING
The ticked panels are now sending to the checking are for inspection of every
individual pieces for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong
grain line, in appropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects likes holes,
cut , shade, variation etc. That are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are
removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the
total quantity cut, checked and approvals. The rejected pieces are sent back and
equal no of trash panel are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the
same no. as the rejected once. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration
sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment finishing or
washing.
BUNDLING
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and
bundled using tie. The size of bundle depends upon the requirements of the
production plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of same style and same size
only. These pieces are stored in racks made beneath the cutting table. The cutting
department issues the amount required by the production dept. as and when ask
for. The cut component may be issued in instalment or all at once as the needs of
the production dept. against the job order.

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SEWING DEPARTMENT
The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer
at the profit level.
Production is an act of producing i.e. quantity obtained by multiplying two
quantities to gather by making use available resources.
To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input resources or material &
output good and service is known as productivity are reciprocally related to each
other. Therefore an increase in production leads to fall in the cost per unit & rise in
profit.
The production department is spread in two floors, ground floor and first floor is
for jacket, blazer and basic garment. Both floors have common cutting dept. so
all the sizes of bundles are received from there only.

Production floor follows assembly line system. Following are steps to start a
production line.
To study the production file.
To study operation bulletin and set line accordingly.
Manpower operators, checkers, quality controller and helper.
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 Load and feeding line.

To arrange buffer or work in progress.
Manufacturing.
To make daily production and to achieve target accordingly.
To understand bottlenecks stage of production.

Working steps of production department:

Shrinkage production pattern is issued to production floor from CAD dept.
Ready pattern are made as per the requirement of production room.
Cutting received from cutting dept.
Cross checking of cut panels with patterns.
Bundling of cut panels is done.
Operation wise feeding of cut angels into the line.
Inline checkpoint
Output of line
Final checkpoints.
Auditing of checked pieces.

Some important production points:

Ratio between worker and machinery
Bottleneck area to be considered
In most of machine, guide is there
They are using cartons to moving bundles
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 They generate report for broken needle

Complete assembly is divided in 6 parts, in end of every part there was a
record sheet, which show early target input, actual input, target output and
actual output, according to this can find out bottleneck area.

JJ FABTEX FOLLOWS ASSEMBLY LINE PRODUCTION SYSTEM

In this production system a garment is being by no. of workers, therefore
one part is stitched by one worker and then passed on to other, due to which
line gets setup. In the end assembly of the parts is done, in modern industries
conveyor belts are used as a medium of transportation of garment part from
one worker to another. This system is very commonly used in industry as it
reduces the manufacturing cost increase the production.

WASHING DEPARTMENT

Garments pass through various handling processes, which may render them dirty
and stain, thereby reducing their aesthetic appeal. To restore this aesthetic value,
they are subjected to cleansing process like washing and dry cleaning. Garments are
sent for washing by the production department as per the buyers requirement.

Normally the fabrics are not asked to go for wash by the buyer. Whether the fabric
department may internally sent it a number of other reasons.

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1. To control uneven shrinkage

2. To remove bowing
3. To lighten colour shade
4. To improve hand
5. To even out colour shade variations
6. To remove printing smell
7. To execute a dyeing program

WASHING FACILITIES:
ENZYME,
STONE WASHING,
OVERDYEING ETC

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

After assembly, the garments now come for finishing a key stage of garment
manufacturing process. Finishing is done to prepare the final garment
according to the quality standards of the buyer before packing it for shipment.

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PROCESS FLOW OF FINISHING

GARMENT COMES FROM PRODUCTION

WASHING

THREAD CUTTING

INTIAL CHECKING AND SPOTTING

ALTERATION

REIRONING

FINAL CHECKING

PRESENTATION/FINAL IRONING

MEASUREMENT

SENT FOR PACKING

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BASIC WORK FLOW

WASHING, PERC according to the buyers demand or as per the buyer

specifies recipes and the method to be employed. The pieces are count and
sent with the asg or PERC program.
Thread trimming pieces received from the washing department or
from the assembly line now come for thread trimming where trails of
thread are cut off from the seams, buttons etc. manually with the help of
trimming scissor.
Spotting during the assembly, the garment may acquire stain and other
objectionable marks which must be removed. This is done either in washing
department or they are locally sported off. Objectionable stains like that
of chalk are spotted by means of spotting guns containing mild solvent.
Harder and stubborn stain(like that of tobacco, rust, dye, kerosene etc) are
sent to the spotting room where they are cleansed under the spotting
machine in a protective environment. If the spots still dont go then they are
sent for perc or dry cleaning.
General checking now the garment comes for general checking relating
to overall stitching. Here, first the general visual appearance is studied
which includes shape of the garments; balancing of the parts; color
variations etc. then any seaming defects are recognized for example unmade
seams, missed stitches etc. as per requirement the checked pieces are send
for mending to assemble line. The production manager gives a top sample to
checkers as a visual aid.
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 Final thread cutting minute thread like those of labels, bar tack etc. are
trimmed off to give the neat look. Thread loosely sticking to the garments is
also shed off, both in and out by jerking the garment before it goes for
pressing.
Pressing pressing in general is shaping the assemble material with
pressure, with/ without heat and moisture, for further processing. In case of
knits, this is important but not as significant as in the case of woven
because of their property of excellent recovery and fit.
Measurement and final checking this is the final and most stringent done for
garment measurement, appearance, labels, trim etc to study the final look and
shape the final look and shape of the product produced. Measurements are done
according to the specification sheets and recording are made for any variations in
the measurement chart. This gives an overall idea about the quality of the
garment being produced.
PACKAGING DEPARTMENT

Packing is the LAST STAGE WHERE THE FINISHED GARMENT ARE

PRIMED, Organized, geared up for the shipment to the buyer, the entire process
from the way a garment will be folded to the final labeling of the cartons is
dictated by buyers specifications. These instructions are standardized for a
particular type of garment and sent to the merchandiser in from of a packing
manual. The merchandiser forwards it to the packing in charge along with a top of
production sample i.e. packed with dimension approved by the buyer. This is kept
as a visual reference for the packers.

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PROCESS FLOW OF PACKING

GARMENT COMES FROM INSPECTION

IT IS THEN FOLDED

1 OR 2 ARE PACKED TOGETHER

ALL PIECES PUT IN TO CARTONS

DETAILS ARE PASTRD ON CARTONS

CARTON IS SEALED

LODED INTO TRUCKS

SENT FOR SHIPMENT

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