Professional Documents
Culture Documents
TH AM
E H ILY
AM GU
PT IDE
ON :
S
AUGUST 2014
ON HOLIDAY
WITH
KATE UPTON
ETHAN HAWKE
JAKE BUGG
ISLAND ESCAPE
CAMLIA
RING WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS
CAMLIA BROD
SECRET WATCH WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS
www.chanel.com
ICONIC
E XC ELLEN C E
A UNIQUE COLLECTION OF EXTRAORDINARY
INDIVIDUAL HOTELS. ENRICHED WITH THE CHARACTER
OF LOCAL CULTURE. INSPIRED BY THE LIFESTYLE
OF THE MODERN LUXURY TRAVELLER.
CO M I N G SO O N
CONTENTS
AUGUST 2014
Features
60
72 South Africa
Discover the
countrys least explored landscapes on a road
trip along the wild, wonderful Elephant Coast
84 Menorca
Dazzling beaches
and smart hotels are luring Ibiza graduates to
an island with a more laid-back beat
92 Maldives
98
CONTENTS
August 2014
32
28
84
In this issue
10 Editors letter
36
32 Neighbourhood on the up
Art-loving Berliners are making a
beeline for buzzy Linienstrasse
48
119
On the cover
Cova den Xoroi,
Menorca,
photographed by
Mirjam Bleeker
19 Contributors
LONDON BOUTIQUE, 14A NEW BOND STREET - TEL. (+44) 207 499 22 25
HARRODS, 87-135 BROMPTON ROAD - TEL. (+44) 207 893 81 57
ABU DHABI
BAL HARBOUR
MOSCOW
NEW YORK
COURCHEVEL
PA R I S
DUBAI
PORTO CERVO
t
t
G E N E VA
ROME
G S TA A D
K U WA I T
ST BARTHELEMY
LONDON
ST MORITZ
EDITORS LETTER
o ive fallen in love with Morocco. Is that why Im wearing the silly outt in
this picture? No. Its not like I go to America dressed as a cowboy, or to Egypt
as a sphinx. I am not some kind of Mr Benn. I was actually off to a party for
which the dress code was Casablanca. Or so I thought. I actually had the wrong
night, as usual. Hey-ho. I once misread an invitation for a party that I thought said Italian
chucks; French sluts. I went head-to-toe in black latex (very un-me, but I really wanted to
make an effort, instead of not making an effort, which is my usual). Anyway, I was rather
taken aback when the queue at the entrance to the party was lled with girls wearing
Karen Millen (it was the early 1990s). What was worse, everyone thought I must be part
of the entertainment so kept on expecting me to do something. Which I didnt.
Id been to Morocco before. A couple of times. Once, my then boyfriend and I ended up
staying in a room advertised as being in someones house. It was cheap, and the place
looked lovely in the pictures. But then, of course, we were in fact IN HIS HOUSE. He had
a very high, squeaky voice, like a unoiled door hinge, and a peculiar coterie of friends who
would emerge, as the days rays faded, like lizards, and sit on his terrace drinking tea and looking like
they were about to make a plan that we were not party to. I recognised among the group an aristo who
owned not one but two of the loveliest houses in England. He made no mention of them. Or, for that
matter, of his wife. I was the only girl ever at these gatherings. No one talked to me, or even looked at
me. I feel like a lolly stick. But with no lolly.
Anyway, one night in the main square, amidst the snakes and the orange sellers, wed had some special
tea unawares at one of the stalls, and as we wandered home along the clandestine, labyrinthine streets,
feeling as if the whole of the medina was nothing but a giant house of cards, a large door suddenly opened
to reveal the most amazing sight. A mini-Eden full of palm trees strung with segment-cut lanterns letting
out a tangerine-coloured light, tables covered in patterned bowls overowing with fruits, and clusters
of laughing creatures. And in the corner, on a raised platform, a singer, a man darker than a pit and the
tallest I had ever seen. He must have been seven-and-a-half feet at least. He was also a eunuch. Out of
his towering tree-trunk rootedness, a voice like a madrigal.
We snuck in. The tea had left me peckish, and I managed to nd among the rumpus a huge table laden
with a feast. Stickily I helped myself to dates, piling on my plate great ladles of lamb and apricot and
pomegranate. I couldnt believe my luck. How come youre here? I said as I stuck my nose into another
tagine, to a person I became aware of by my side. Because, she answered grufy, I am the bride and this
is my wedding. I turned. There she was. All in white. At least shed got her outt right on the day.
But no, it was this very recent trip that led me to fall in love with Morocco. The jacarandas in full
electric-purple bloom, the red earth clotted like ladybird blood, the peas and tomatoes singing off the
vines, the gorgeous, funny Moroccans, picking quartz literally out of the earth, having saffron shoved
in my face. And, nally, taking the children to the square with its turn-of-the-century, Leptis Magna,
African-trading-post frisson. Monkeys that bit, and cobras on their haunches, a chameleon with periscope
eyes, piles of tiny turtles sitting on leaves of lettuce. The children were a mixture of horrifed and
entranced. Which was just how I wanted them to feel.
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For those who love the pitter-patter heartbeat of an
exotic new love.
Melinda Stevens
Editor
@MelindaStevens3
MelindaLP
Photograph: Ernest H. Brooks II, Blue in Profile , Edition Fifty Fathoms 2008
MISSION PARTNER OF
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES
ABU DHABI BEIJING CANNES DUBAI EKATERINBURG GENEVA HONG KONG MACAU
MADRID MANAMA MOSCOW MUNICH NEW YORK PARIS SEOUL SHANGHAI SINGAPORE TAIPEI TOKYO ZURICH
www.blancpain.com
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Simon Leadsford
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CONTRIBUTORS
Inspired by this months Elephant
Coast feature, we asked contributors
to describe their favourite road trip
WORD OF MOUTH
On the waterfront
Marlon Brandos Polynesian hideaway is now a private-island hotel: we let the man himself* tell the story
Be comfortable. Thats my motto up where I come from. You gonna
shack up here? If you do, itll be more than comfortable. Brando fell for this
12-island atoll, a short hop from Tahiti, while scouting locations for Mutiny
on the Bounty. He bought it in 1967 and built 12 palm-thatched bungalows.
Im going to make him an offer he cant refuse. Okay? Who could say no
to Don Corleone? In 1999 Brando asked a local company to help turn the
place into a world-class eco-hotel. It has taken till now to realise his vision.
This is no fantasy, no careless product of wild imagination. No,
indeed. The Brandos green cred is serious: a net-zero carbon footprint,
a research station for scientists and seawater-cooled air-conditioning.
Man, liquor goes fast in the hot weather. You want a shot? Wed
prefer a Teitora Sunset from Bobs Bar on the beach, named after
Brandos beloved assistant. Something to eat would be nice, too.
WORD OF MOUTH
BOWLED
OVER
MELBOURNE
The Meatball & Wine Bar
This buzzy venue, above and right,
also to be found in the citys suburbs,
serves authentic Italian balls and
wines with a side order of innuendo
Best balls: Chicken meatballs with pesto salsa verde on creamy polenta
PARIS
Balls
Opened in January, this
cheeky eatery in the
11th has waiters in
Eat my balls T-shirts
Best balls: Lamb,
coriander, onion and
cumin boulettes with
yogurt sauce
NEW
YORK
The Meatball Shop
Customise your
bowl (choose your
meat, sauce and
side combo), left,
at ve meatballeries
across the city
Best balls: Breakfast
sausage meatballs
with mushroom gravy
on Southern-style biscuits
STOCKHOLM
Meatballs For the People
The chefs at this new deli/restaurant,
left, are passionate about their national
dish and pedantic about meat producers
Best balls: Moose with dill and fennel
seeds, served with mashed potato,
cream sauce, lingonberry jam and
pickled cucumber.
TATTY GOOD
22 Cond Nast Traveller August 2014
YACINE BELHOUSSE
The Paris-based comic will perform his rst all-English show
MY EDINBURGH: The Pleasance Courtyard is the epicentre
of the Fringe and the best place for people-watching.
MY PARIS: I always go to Tlescope, a caf near the Opra
Garnier, which makes the best caf crme in all of Paris.
Made in France, 30 July30 August, Pleasance Courtyard
FELICITY WARD
From New South Wales and a regular on Australian TV shows
MY EDINBURGH: Every Saturday on the Meadows,
theres a man with a van. A French man who sells cheese.
Cheese that stinks. Cheese you will want to marry.
MY NEW SOUTH WALES: The rst place I go is to water:
a lake, the beach, a drinking fountain. If I want to pretend
no one else exists, I walk to Box Head in Bouddi National
Park to watch the stingrays and sea lions.
The Iceberg, 30 July30 August, Underbelly
MICHAEL MITTERMEIER
Takes a tongue-in-cheek look at the soul of Germany
MY EDINBURGH: I go to drink whisky. The only place to do
this is the Whiski Room, which has hundreds of bottles.
MY MUNICH: Schwabing is the coolest neighbourhood. New
bars are always opening, with everything from live music to poetry
and open-mic comedy. I once saw an Austrian Freddie Mercury.
Das Blackout, 1125 August, Gilded Balloon. TIM CLARK
WORD OF MOUTH
GIVE ME
DEVOTION
INSIDER
GUIDE
As the Jerusalem Season of Culture
gets under way, its artistic director
Itay Mautner picks his city highlights
EAT. your way around Machane Yehuda market.
Start with a lunch of no-fuss rice, beans and kube
hamusta (beef-lled dumplings in a lemony soup)
at local workers favourite Azura. At Machneyuda
for dinner, irt with the hostess to get one of the
best tables by the bar, opposite the chef.
WORD OF MOUTH
drives. Kigelia Ruaha and Kwihala have just reopened with fresh looks
after takeovers by Nomad Tanzania and Asilia Africa. But perhaps the
remotest opening of all is in Liuwa Plain National Park in Zambia. A
former royal hunting ground, this 1,390-square-mile reserve is home
to Africas second largest wildebeest migration, where 60,000 animals
converge on the grasslands in November and December. Next year
Norman Carr Safaris plans to open the rst permanent camp here. Called
Kokomo, it will operate for only a couple of months at a time and involve
multiple modes of transport to get here, but for that youll be among the
few hundred people who make it to this untamed corner each year.
Three of the worlds top restaurants are going travelling, but theres no beach time for the chefs
HESTON BLUMENTHAL
RENE REDZEPI
JOAN ROCA
FOOD MILES
the trends
taking off
and those
running out
of fuel
PARIS
Even more alluring with the
opening of The Peninsula hotel
in August. All eyes, too, on
the big reveal of the new-look
Ritz at the end of the year
INLAND SURFING
A hit along rivers in
Germany and on the USAs
Great Lakes and soon in
Snowdonia on the worlds rst
articial surf lake
MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY
VIVIAN KONIGSBERG, FOUNDER OF
SOA ARTE CONTEMPORANEO
PIERS
Getting a revamp up and down
the English coast. Going extra
smart next year with New Yorks
SuperPier featuring an Andr
Balazs spa and beach club
VOLCANOES
COLLAGE KIDS
TECHNOPHOBES
Even North Korea has a travel
app for tourists. Smartphones
are your new tour guide
CATTLE CLASS
Three-room residences on
Etihad, ultra-luxe suites on
Air France and a Four Seasons
private jet. No-frills just wont
cut it any more
COLLABORATIONS
With Missoni pulling out
of the hotel business,
are fashion designers hautels
nally going out of fashion?
CARACAS, VENEZUELA
LUIS ROMERO, CO-DIRECTOR
OF ARTIST-RUN OFICINA #1
While all eyes are on Brazil for the World Cup, South
Americas modern art is the focus of an exhibition t
his month at Londons Royal Academy of Arts. Radical
Geometry features designs from 20th-century
painters and sculptors including Venezuelas Jess Rafael
Soto, a pioneer in op and kinetic art, and Brazils Hlio
Oiticica, who took art off the walls, creating installations
that the viewer could step inside. An experimental
streak is still evident in the South American art scene;
here, four gallerists give us the lowdown.
BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA
MARIANO LOPEZ SEOANE,
DIRECTOR OF MIAU MIAU
GALLERY
CYCLING IN DENMARK
Jasper Rees slows right down
on a laid-back jaunt in a land of
Viking wilderness. Photographs
by Martin Kaufmann
OF STATE HAVE COPIED HER EVER SINCE, INCLUDING CHURCHILL AND CLINTON
palaces and those churches with hanging
ships are always worth the journey, but
the journey is also worth it for itself.
Its not all about cycling. One day, when
rain threatens, we put the bikes on one of
the reliable little trains that hoot around
Zealand and head inland to the attractive
lakeside town of Hillerd. It was here at
the start of the 1600s that the resplendent
Frederiksborg Castle was built by King
Christian IV. Much of the interior was
destroyed in 1859 and its restoration was
led by Carlsberg magnate JC Jacobsen,
who proposed that it become a museum
of national history; thus, two oors are
lled with portraits of Danish royalty. It
STEP IT UP A GEAR
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Villa Brinkly, Snekkersten. Intimate family-run B&B wedged
between the woods and the beach. Handy for Helsingr. +45 4913
2091; www.brinkly.dk. Doubles from about 135
Gilleleje Badehotel, Gilleleje. A comfortable place in a clifftop location.
+45 4830 1347; www.gillelejebadefotel.dk. Doubles from about 160
Helenekilde Badehotel, Tisvildeleje. A superb mixture of ships cabin
and romantic seaside retreat. Worth a weekend away on its own.
+45 4870 7001; www.helenekilde.com. Doubles from about 150
71 Nyhavn, Copenhagen. A cosy converted warehouse with grand
views in a redeveloped waterfront district. +45 3343 6200;
www.71nyhavn.com. Doubles from about 120
WHERE TO EAT
Halsnaes Bryghus, Hundested. Microbrewery serving burgers: a good
pit stop, whatever the weather. www.halsbryg.dk. About 30 for two
Adamsens Fisk, Gilleleje. Fish straight from the harboured boats, with
chips. Strictly outdoors. www.adamsenssk.com. About 25 for two
WHAT TO SEE
Karen Blixen Museum, Rungsted. She once had a farm in Africa, but
when the Danish author lost everything, she returned to her family
home on the coast. Its now an impressive museum. www.blixen.dk
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Humlebaek. Denmarks nest
collection of 20th-century artworks. www.louisiana.dk
Knud Rasmussens House, Hundested. The great explorer settled in
this modest home on a hill overlooking the sea. www.indmus.dk
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen. World-class art with superb
antiquities and 19th-century landscapes. www.glyptoteket.com
NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP
Its bombed-out buildings were once magnets for struggling artists, now this central enclave of
Linienstrasse, Berlin
Germanys hippest city is getting a smart shake-up, with quirky bars and retro restaurants
SLEEP
Located at the precise point
where Linienstrasse soars
in price and coolness, the
light-ooded and spacious
Karlito Apartments are
fantastically good value.
The furniture may look
suspiciously all-Ikea but
everything is bright and
spotlessly clean, and the
ground-oor caf is great
for mid-morning pastries as
well as late-night cocktails.
Linienstrasse 60 (www.
karlito-apartments.de).
Doubles from about 85
The rustic-minimalist
all-Italian bar Muret Le
Barba offers wine from
a menu broken down into
grape, region and taste
prole: mix and match or
just explain what you fancy
to one of the Englishspeaking waiters. The
wine goes particularly well
with plates of delicious
antipasti, such as the
explodingly milky burrata.
Arrive very early or late
to snag a spot at the small
white bar, framed by a
wall of bottles and in
full view of the kitchen
counter. Rosenthaler Strasse
61 (+49 30 2809 7212;
www.muretlabarba.de)
DRINK
collection of orange
(untreated) wine by the
glass. And there are
interesting small plates
to nibble on, including
Viennese boiled-beef
wrap, brilliant sticky ribs
and mountain cheeses.
Grosse Hamburger Strasse
32 (+49 30 2758 1215;
www.cordobar.net)
Rutz Weinbar has a
Michelin star for its food
and some of the best
wines in Europe, and it
takes its beer and spirits
just as seriously. But
refreshingly, this place has
very few airs; rocking up
for impromptu aperitivi is
positively encouraged, even
on busy Fridays. Order a
Berlin ale, a Riesling from
Baden-Wrttemberg or a
Spatzburgunder from
Pfalz. And try the sliced
Neuklln sausage with
sauerkraut and onion as
a wallet-friendly snack.
Chausseestrasse 8
(+49 30 2462 8760;
www.rutz-weinbar.de)
EAT
Das Lokal isnt advertised
by anything as vulgar as
a sign, but this tworoom shoebox is always
rammed. Once you
manage to get a table,
friendly staff serve
Brandenburg produce:
home-made noodles with
goats cheese, fennel and
hazelnut; wild boar with
yellow beetroot. Miss
Dont
miss
Michelin-starred new
kid on the block Pauly
Saal serves unctuous
Pomeranian ox ribs and
entrecte in a room where
the visual focus is a giant
(model) red-and-white
missile. The building was a
Jewish girls school until
1942. Auguststrasse 11 (+49
30 3300 6070; www.pauly
saal.com) About 80 for two
Mind-bending things
are done to fruit and veg
(rose-shaped beetroot
ice and cod-liver balls)
at Reinstoff, in the
industrial-luxe former
Edison factory where
Germanys rst lightbulbs
were manufactured.
Time disappears as the
tasting menu unfurls.
Theres fantastic wine, too.
Schlegelstrasse 26c (+49 30
3088 1214; www.reinstoff.
eu). About 160 for two
SEE
Galerie Zinks zigzagging
matte-grey structure is
in arresting contrast to
the eerie, shambolic heart
of old East Berlin near
Alexanderplatz. Inside there
is an excellent selection
of pieces from 19
up-and-coming artists,
many of whom use the
space itself as inspiration
for work in a variety of
mediums, from drawing,
painting and sculpture to
photography and video
installation. Linienstrasse
23 (+49 30 6981 4320;
www.galeriezink.de)
Only in Berlin would
you nd a surrealist
museum of mechanical
objects. Vlad, the curator
of Designpanoptikum,
SHOP
Brand-new Portuguese
design store Paz DAlma
sells everything from
smooth wooden salad
bowls to modernist
lamps, regional wine and
printed paper notebooks.
Linienstrasse 121 (+49
30 6431 9900; www.
paz-dalma.de)
A groovy hangout for
grandmothers and crafty,
wool-loving hipsters alike,
Knit Knit is crammed
with specialist yarns and
accessories, and holds
regular knit-ins and
classes. Linienstrasse 154
(+49 30 9836 6430;
www.knitknit.de)
Garments is possibly
Germanys best vintage
shop, with beautifully
selected second-hand
pieces at prices from
bargain to bank-breaking.
The jewellery and clutches
are divine. Linienstrasse
204205 (+49 30 2847
7781; www.garmentsvintage.de)
Knock back an espresso
while you browse at the
impeccable eyewear shop
Brillenschneiderei. The
selection reects the
stores homage to highfunctional German design.
Gormannstrasse 8 (+49
30 8501 6060; www.
brillenschneiderei.de)
CHILL
Nicole Wheadon, the owner
of eponymous beauty
emporium Wheadon, was
previously a beauty buyer
at Galeries Lafayette. She
sources rare and wonderful
German and French perfumes
and offers mens barbering and
salt-water jet treatments
downstairs in her exposedbrick shop. The 20-minute
facial treats (about 25)
are lovely. Steinstrasse 17
(+49 176 3614 4509; www.
wheadon.de)
My Linienstrasse
Jing Rttger
CO-FOUNDER OF CHIMOSA YOGA STUDIO
I was born in Shanghai and lived in Berlin as a child, before
the wall came down, and then returned to the city six years ago.
But I still love Chinese food and Lucky Star on Friedrichstrasse
is good for hotpot and dim sum. I was a strategy consultant
before opening my studio: I chose Linienstrasse because its very
individual, young and international, with small shops. I wanted a
creative place. I adore Atelier Cacao, the bio-chocolate factory
and store across the street. La Galleria Italiana on Torstrasse
has very good antipasti and the best coffee is at Espresso
Ambulanz. For shopping,
I like the accessories at
Wald, especially the
delicate gold bracelets.
After work I sometimes
go to Meine Bar for a
glass of wine; its small and
incredibly cosy.
WHERE TO STAY
Above, from left: the Croc bowling alley; the Drawing Room. Opposite, framed records and a bespoke sofa from South Africa in the bowling alley
August 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 37
WHERE TO STAY
Above, a Pierre Frey fabric, artworks designed by Kit Kemp and vintage bowling shoes. Opposite,
clockwise from top left: a sitting room; the restaurant; a suite; an artwork Kemp picked up in Brazil
WHERE TO STAY
LE PINARELLO HOTEL,
CORSICA
I love the fact that if you get a room
on the ground-oor, you can step off
your balcony onto the beach. Its about
40 minutes from the main town, but
there are restaurants nearby. The one
across the road makes the best chocolate
fondant Ive ever eaten. www.lepinarello.
com. Doubles from about 220
RENAISSANCE PARIS
LE PARC TROCADERO,
FRANCE
It may not be the most
famous hotel in Paris, but get
a room on the top oor and
you can see the Eiffel Tower
it feels youre right in Paris.
I thought it was really romantic;
then, when I was on a plane
to Birmingham the next day
with a screaming kid next to
me, I thought maybe it had
just been the best dream ever.
www.marriott.co.uk.
Doubles from about 300
40 Cond Nast Traveller August 2014
FOUR SEASONS
LONDON
The rst time I walked in, I thought
it was really old-fashioned: a bath
big enough for two and classical music
playing from a beautiful vintage radio.
I just laughed to myself. What am I
doing here?! I felt like I didnt belong.
Now its one of my favourites. You have
to try the macaroni cheese on room
service. www.deanstreettownhouse.com.
Doubles from 195
NO THANKS!
I wouldnt recommend the Travelodge in
Kings Cross. When you rst start out as
a musician you dont have the privilege of
staying in nice hotels: youve got to do
The Toilet Tour, as they say. Ive stayed
in a lot of Travelodges, but that is a
pretty horric hotel. Dont go there. Ever.
U N F O R G E T TA B L E M O M E N T S
on the water
WHERE TO STAY
colourful beetroot-and-horseradish salad,
followed by hay-smoked venison with a
lick-the-plate gravy, and pork loin with a
celeriac-and-apple rosti. Puddings are
incredible: a chocolate whatchamacallit
cake that implodes into a gooey mess
when drenched in salted caramel sauce
at the table; tangy rhubarb sorbet with
duck-egg custard. Its all you can do to
waddle happily up to bed afterwards.
WHO GOES THERE? The Duck is a
hit with locals out for a Saturday night
treat (theres an overow dining room
that was packed the evening we visited).
Overnighters include couples celebrating
double-digit wedding anniversaries and
families whose children write excited
reports in the guest book about sleeping
high up in the loft-style bed.
WE LIKE The jar of dog treats on the
windowsill in the bar; the Hunter wellies
to borrow for muddy walks; the helpyourself spa baskets lled with potions,
lotions and GHD hair straighteners.
WARWICKSHIRE
WHAT IS IT? A stout, orange-brick pub
with rooms in the tiny village of Armscote
on the edge of the Cotswolds. Inside, its
surprisingly contemporary, a shot of
urban style mixed with sweet-as-pie
country charm. There are black-and-white
photographs on the walls and caramelcoloured leather armchairs (particularly
useful after procuring a snifter from the
connoisseurs cabinet of ne whiskies).
The small bar segues into a cosy dining
room, and theres a decked terrace at the
back that gets lively when the sun shines.
BEHIND THE SCENES The Duck
opened last year after siblings Tania
Fossey and Adrian Slater (of the family
behind the Baylis & Harding beauty
brand) had transformed what was a
traditional pub into a smart restaurant
with boutique-style rooms. The interiors
were designed by Fossey, and shes
taken the duck theme and run with it
(but not in a twee way); the framed
multicoloured eggs are a quirky touch.
42 Cond Nast Traveller August 2014
PHOTOGRAPHS: AUTUMN ALLOTMENT BY SIMON POOLEY, 50 X 60CM MIXED MEDIA ON CANVAS; JAKE EASTHAM
WHERE TO STAY
A LETTER FROM
Ladies and gentlemen, show your appreciation for the capital of Canada. On second
thoughts, says novelist Elizabeth Hay, please stay in your seats. Illustration by Laura Carlin
f its a standing ovation you
want, then this is the place to
be. Yet again the other night,
having half-slept through an
interminable performance
by a dance company from Taiwan,
I woke to everyone around me
engaged in that most Ottawan of
activities: not measuring their
length on the icy pavement, but
hoisting their old bones in order to
applaud. It happens every time.
I held my grumpy ground, not
rising until I could no longer see
any part of the stage for all the
broad backs in my way.
Ottawa is not a cultural city. It
is a political city, largely populated
by civil servants, that straddles
English and French Canada. In
many ways it embodies the old
French-English divide, the famous
two solitudes. In this regard,
however, we are the same. Though
francophones and anglophones may
nurture their mutual grievances
and avoid speaking to one another,
we rise to our feet with the same
mind-numbing regularity.
Let me tell you what we say about
ourselves. I have this rsthand,
having conducted research at a
dinner party a few nights ago. Here,
by the way, we dont tend to get
together with friends in restaurants
and bars, rather over a meal at home,
and when you are invited, unless you
happen to be a selsh writer, you
ask what you might bring. Salad?
Dessert? We arrived with our salad,
made by my husband, and a bottle
of wine, and I put my question. Why
does Ottawa give standing ovations
to everything under the sun?
The answers came readily, in
tones of sorrow, self-recognition and
disgust. We are not sophisticated,
46 Cond Nast Traveller August 2014
STYLE FILE
BY FIONA LINTOTT
Need ideas to make a splash? Our favourite people behind the hippest swimwear
ADAM BROWN
The man responsible for those Daniel Craig trunks
Where are you?
The Caribbean, travelling to Canouan
and Mustique to stay with friends.
Best beaches?
Mauhault Bay on Canouan and
Macaroni on Mustique.
Best pool?
At Gumbolimbo, our friends house
on Canouan. It is perfect.
Suncare by.
Lancaster.
Summer playlist?
Sandals or trainers?
Bare feet.
Sunglasses by.
The new OB Beaumont.
Orlebar Brown (www.orlebarbrown.co.uk)
Swimsuit, 145,
Mara Hoffman (www.
marahoffman.com)
MARA HOFFMAN
The original hippy chick with real staying power
Where are you?
Suncare by...
Best beaches?
Besides Belize, the Turks and Caicos are
beautiful, Mexico is amazing and the
beaches of southern India are unreal.
Summer playlist?
I always think of slow dancing on
a hot night to Beast of Burden by
The Rolling Stones. Also, Im a forever
fan of most reggae.
Sandals by...
Best pool?
MH x Havaianas.
Sunglasses by...
Where do
you eat?
At local shacks.
Mara Hoffman
(www.marahoffman.com)
What do you
drink?
A Mojito or
a Corona.
labels share their holiday checklists. PLUS Jewellery Beauty Mens & On the scene
IPEK IRGIT
The bright new bikini hotshot
Where are you?
Stopping off in Ibiza, then going to Ceme
in Turkey. My family has a house there.
Best beaches?
Weve spent great summers at Kum Beach
and Okans Place on the Aegean Sea.
Best pool?
Bikini, 225, Kiini
(www.kiini.com). Sun
Beauty cream, 20,
Lancaster at Selfridges
(www.selfridges.com)
Suncare by...
Lancaster.
Summer playlist?
I got you (I feel good) by James Brown.
Sandals by...
Valia Gabriel, who I recently discovered.
Sunglasses by...
Oliver Peoples and Illesteva.
Kiini (www.kiini.com)
Best beach?
Rockaway, our closest surf spot to NYC.
Best pool?
On Soho House New Yorks roof deck.
Suncare by...
Either Vertra or Watermans.
Summer playlist?
A podcast by Chances with Wolves.
Sandals or trainers?
Nike running shoes.
Sunglasses by...
Our new Saturdays Surf NYC Mitsu frames.
Saturdays Surf NYC
(www.saturdaysnyc.com)
STYLE FILE
JURASSIC JEWELS
Whitby jet
Masterpiece ring
with gold and
Champagne
diamonds, 4,500,
Jacqueline Cullen
(www.jacqueline
cullen.com)
White-gold,
Tanzanite, diamond
and mammoth-tusk
pendant, 25,950,
Theo Fennell
(www.theofennell.
com). Rose-gold,
dinosaur-bone,
rutile and whitediamond earrings,
6,763, Monique
Pan (www.dover
streetmarket.com)
magine a piece of jewellery that contained materials dating back 100 million
years. Imagine how much you would want to look at it and touch it, how
fascinating and otherworldly and beyond rare it would seem. The jewellery
industry, always so tuned into the human condition and our insatiable appetite for
something different, is turning to Jurassic elements, heightening their preciousness
by mixing them with diamonds and gold, and maximising the patina and texture that
comes with extreme age. Theo Fennell has used chunks of mammoth tusk sourced
from the melting permafrosts in Siberia to carve a ring and pendant with a delicate leaf
pattern, and then set them with brilliant-blue Tanzanite from the Merelani Hills near
Mount Kilimanjaro. Similarly, Bibi van der Velden has formed mini-sculptures out of
mammoth tusk, rst imagined in wax and then carved by craftsmen in a village in China.
Jet, or petried wood, traditionally used in Victorian mourning jewellery, is
fashionable once more. Jacqueline Cullen sources hers from Whitby (its
petried monkey puzzle tree) and dots it with blobs of molten
gold or sets it with black diamonds to splendid Gothic effect.
Pomellatos take is slicker and less organic, piercing the jet
into a paisley pattern or mixing it with gold links to create a
long, looping chain. Even Cartier, so historically focused on
exceptional gemstones, is tapping into the trend. A
panthers face is sculpted from fossilised matter; the
natural patination is the perfect depiction of dappled
fur. And possibly the most extraordinary incarnation is
jewellery made from dinosaur bone. Fragments sourced
from the Colorado Plateau, which are too small for a
museum display, have been sliced and polished by
Platinum, fossilised
Monique Pan, thereby exposing their ancient, natural
matter, onyx,
tessellation. Placed into thoroughly modern settings and
yellow- and whitearranged with diamonds into graphic compositions, her pieces
diamond bracelet,
POR, Cartier
are the perfect reimagining of the Earths prehistoric remains.
(www.cartier.com )
STYLE FILE
GROWING UP IN
FLORIDA, MY MOTHER
MADE A POINT OF
PUTTING SUNSCREEN
ON ME. ITS ESSENTIAL
The model who stars alongside Cameron Diaz in new film The Other Woman shares her tips
STYLE FILE
EDITED BY
DAVID ANNAND
MAN ON A MISSION
enormous when youre on a bike), hoping that I dont stall or, even worse,
drop the bike, which is easily done at such low speeds.
Eventually Jay gets bored, throws a hand signal and basically cuts up the
whole of the highway. We all follow, heading north on Route 87 along the
Hudson River, the Manhattan skyline on our left, the Yankee Stadium to
our right. Its the best way to see the city. About 45 minutes later were out
on beautiful, tree-lined roads with no traffic.
We stop for ribs at Billy Joes BBQ, a huge place covered in stars and
stripes. For these guys, riding a Harley is a way of life, so theres no beer,
just massive bikers drinking lime and soda.
On the way back, through the Harriman State Park, the scenery is
incredible: mountain passes, cliff edges, great drops, huge trees. No one
is in a rush. We stay in formation, Jay blocking roundabouts with his
bike so we can sail on through. Its an awesome feeling, knowing that
weve been accepted. Were part of the chapter.
Harley Davidsons can be hired through www.eaglerider.com
British jeweller Henry Deakin heads out on the highway with Long Islands toughest bikers
ESPADRILLES
1
From left: Englewood hat, 25, Wild Wild Western Wear (www.westernwear.co.uk); Western shirt, 75, Lee (www.asos.com);
bandana, 200, Louis Vuitton (www.louisvuitton.co.uk)
STYLE FILE
EDITED BY THEA DARRICOTTE
Swimsuit, 144,
Chlo (www.chloe.
com).Curriculum
Vitae rings, from
8,048 each,
Tamara Comolli
(www.tamara
comolli.com)
Trilby, 250,
Eugenia Kim
at www.net-aporter.com.
Trunk, 1,195,
Globetrotter (+44
20 7529 5950)
Solar sunglasses,
465, Sonia Rykiel
(+44 20 7493
5455). Towel, 275,
Versace (+44 20
7259 5700). The
Diamante Bag
1,360, Gucci (+44
20 7235 6707)
There can be few other hotels where guests carry quite the same cachet as
the Splendidos. The rst signatures in the prized guest book are those of
the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson. Its where Giorgio Armani and
Dolce and Gabbana come for drinks, where Taylor and Burton stayed for
a romantic ing. Set on a hillside above the pastel shing town of
Portono, the former mansion looks down over the bluest of coves and
olive groves dotted with gazillionaires villas. Inspite of all the newmoney arrivals, theres still plenty of old-fashioned glamour at the
Splendido, from the waiters in bow ties to the charming bedrooms,
with murals, linen sheets and china bowls lled with bath salts for
long soaks with Med views (the best is from room 221). The food is
delicious: pastas with roasted chestnuts and ceps; focaccia fragrant
with rosemary. Play tennis on the cedar-scented courts, have a
massage in the garden or pray in the 12th-century church. Even a
pianist in a sequined suit crooning europop at midnight seems
right because, with a Bellini in hand, it feels utterly Italian.
LISA GRAINGER www.hotelsplendido.com. Doubles from
A look from Dolce
& Gabbana S/S 14
380. Elegant Resorts (www.elegantresorts.co.uk) offers
tailor-made trips to Italy
Blossom-print pencil skirt,
525, Dolce & Gabbana
at www.matchesfashion.
com. Nadia sandals, 375,
Jimmy Choo (www.
jimmychoo.com)
Take a MomenT
The Nikon D5300 is the ultimate camera for discerning travellers
who want to take their photography far beyond the snapshot
eve all been there. Mesmerised by a gorgeous
sunset in the Australian outback or caught up in
the pulsing street life of Istanbuls Old City, you
scramble around in your pockets, press that
dinky little camera icon on your phone or tablet and
then curse your luck when the resolutions a bit fuzzy
around the edges, or the framings wonky. Sometimes,
when you really want to capture a moment, only a
serious bit of camera kit will do.
*Offer not available in conjunction with any other offers. Subject to Nikon School standard
terms and conditions. Offer valid until December 31, 2014.
USA
SPECIAL
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
TRENDWATCH
Mastering the art of slow roasting in an Aga or deboning a pig from snout to tail are good, honest, robust skills to have. But for something a
little crisper this summer, Italy is where the food revolution goes top-notch. Cooking schools here have become more than a roly-poly, red-cheeked
chef in a bloody apron: they are rened, lled with covetable copper pots and pans, and men in sun-faded Herms-orange chinos waxing lyrical
about cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil. This is where to learn how to step up from a tricolore salad and casually dish out saffron risotto without
breaking a sweat. For a week-long crammer, try Stirred, just opened outside Venice in the antique-stuffed, 15th-century summer villa of the
Brandolini dAdda family. Here ex-River Caf chef Sophie Braimbridge teaches how to cook spaghetti with clams from Rialto sh market, among
other things. At Villa San Michele in Florence theres a turbo-charged schedule of classes with chef Attilio di Fabrizio, and the programme at
Tuscanys Castel Monastero was created by Gordon Ramsay. But most thrilling of all is Desinare in the Instagramable Riccardo Barthel
showroom, above, in Florences Oltrarno district, a hive of interior design, yacht ttings and gleaming kitchen kit. Sign up for a day course in
ravioli-making but try table-styling lessons, too theres no point ruining all that hard work with poor presentation. ISSY VON SIMSON
60
VILLA EXTRAMUROS
ARRAIOLOS
Its unusual to nd a contemporary B&B in this neck of the
woods, where knobbly old farms and thick-walled manor houses
dominate the landscape; but that is exactly what Franois Savatier
and Jean-Christophe Lalanne had in mind when they dreamt
of leaving their grey Paris abodes to start a new life in Portugal.
The couple commissioned an architect to surprise them and
the result is a boldly minimalist space, which they have lled
with a clever combination of designer objects and the regions
cork and marble. A monochrome palette of black and white
contrasts with bolts of red: a shiny, tomatoey Zieta Plopp 3-D
stool makes the fourth seat at a breakfast table of bright-white
chairs; a cherry-coloured Essey wastepaper bin is tucked under
a pale marble desk. The ve bedrooms look out over the
countryside and nearby Arraiolos, crowned with its 14th-century
hilltop castle. Animal skins and locally woven rugs soften the
smooth stone oors. Bathrooms, in rose or white marble, have
huge rain showers, covetable Aesop products and sprigs
of rosemary, plucked from the garden, in little glass jars by the
sinks. Downstairs, sunlight lters into the well-stocked library and
theres an open courtyard, clean-lined and sharp-edged, with
citrus trees, a modernist fountain and fat, squashy chairs to
op into during the heat of the afternoon or after a dip in the
innity pool, which lies still and blue amid the olive trees.
WHY COME HERE? To dally with design, from Seletti milk jugs
and Toni Grilo black cork lamps to Victor Vasarely zebra lithographs.
BOOK IT +351 911 192 550; www.villaextramuros.com.
Doubles from about 130
63
MONTEMORONOVO
The house, or monte, is a typical old Alentejan farmstead;
tightly packed cane rafters top the whitewashed, lowlying stone structure. Seven pared-back bedrooms, with
terracotta oors and vases of fresh owers, spill out onto
bougainvillaea-edged terraces, some private, most shared.
Boldly coloured walls charcoal greys, deep pinks, mousey
taupe are offset by heavy white Portuguese linens,
Provenal-style lamps and sun-bleached wood. Shutters
and ceiling fans keep the whole place breezy in the height
of the summer and theres a swimming pool in the garden,
as tempting for its view of the 13th-century castle that
dominates neighbouring Montemor-o-Novo as for its cool
water. There are waffle-cotton-covered daybeds under the
vine-entwined pergolas, armchairs on the terrace looking
out across the hills, and sun-loungers from which you only
need stir to nd the honesty bar, with its supply of juicy
olives, local cheeses and crisp white wines. Breakfast is
a serious affair, set up in the converted barn on a shared
table laden with jugs of just-squeezed fruit juice, homemade
jams and platters of the cured meats that the Alentejo is
famous for. Dinner is on request, but when the heat drops
a little at the end of the day, wind your way into fortied
Montemor-o-Novo for a feast of black pork and clams served
in a typical copper cataplana in Bar Alentejano.
WHY COME HERE? Because even with the difficulty of
tracking down the owner (the Portuguese pace is a slow one),
once you get to this charming bolthole, you too will go off grid.
BOOK IT +351 266 899 690; www.montechoracascas.com.
Doubles from about 125
65
AREIAS DO SEIXO
COSTA DE PRATA
The heavy wooden doors of this eco-savvy hotel 40 minutes
north of Lisbon open onto a magical world, with a rope swing
beside reception, hand-written chalkboards lled with
literary quotes, a huge driftwood bench outside for basking
in the sun and a long and very inviting swimming pool. Days
are given over deliciously to drinking whether it is the
home-grown mint-and-fennel tea or the local Quinta de
SantAna Riesling and eating. Lunch is the freshest of warm
salads: courgettes, tomatoes and lettuce picked that
morning from the organic vegetable garden and tossed with
colourful nasturtiums. Dinner is sea bass caught from the
white-capped Atlantic thats visible from the bedroom
windows. Go for walks along the deserted Silver Coast
sand dunes, take a massage in the gorgeous spa, with its
Moroccan lights and Ayurvedic oils, and sit by the crackling
log res that are lit as dusk falls and the stars come out. After
supper, return to your room along pathways of lanterns to
an enchanted cocoon where the bed is turned down and
tealights icker. In one pebble-walled bathroom an olive tree
grows right up through the oor, in another a hot tub
is inset into a slab of polished concrete. The Love Rooms
on the rst oor have views out to sea, mattresses on
reclaimed Moroccan doors, replaces inside and outside
and a thrilling sense of style that reects the Cape Verdean
heritage of Marta Fonseca, one of the owners.
WHY COME HERE? Because there is nowhere quite like it in
Portugal. A design-detailed hotspot that makes you long to
come back and stay in a different room each time.
BOOK IT +351 261 936 340; www.areiasdoseixo.com.
Doubles from about 215
68
MONTE DA FORNALHA
Surrounded by gnarled olive trees and glossy-leaved oranges
and limes, the main house here is topped by a row of
typically squat Alentejan chimneys used to smoke the
slightly spicy local sausages and black hams. It was inhabited
by 10 different families in the 18th century and, over the
past 15 years, owner Orlanda Alves has created a hugely
welcoming spot, knocking down partitions to make six
large bedrooms. Its an excellent base from which to explore
the off-the-beaten-track Alentejo, with its dusty hilltop
towns and centuries-old castles. The framework of the
building displays its ancient origins: agstone oors, deep
replaces, beamed ceilings, heavy wooden shutters. Troughs
once used for the animals add to the rustic bent in some
of the bedrooms, but there are more considered touches
too; the beds are clad in high-end cotton, pin-tucked and
crisp, and covered in chunky woollen throws. Wall colours vary
from soft, all-enveloping pink-wash to quiet white, soaking
up the sun on a still summer afternoon. Woven rugs sit on
sisal matting, Moroccan tiles are mixed with ironwork lamps,
and thick dressing gowns hang on the back of the bathroom
doors. A long communal table is set for breakfast. Simple
salads are made for lunch, to be eaten by the pool or in the
shade of an old g tree. Dinner is served on request for
those too lazy to leave the quiet charm of this old house and
its soundtrack of birdsong from the garden.
WHY COME HERE? To hide away in room 488, with its huge
private terrace, and switch off even just for a night or two.
BOOK IT +351 935 792 330; www.montedafornalha.com.
Doubles from about 75
ALENTEJO
71
HIDDEN
DEPTHS
72
Opposite, a lion in Thanda Private Game Reserve on South Africas Elephant Coast. Previous pages, traditional sh traps in the Kosi Bay estuary
75
A HERD OF 20 ELEPHANTS
SURROUNDS US,
THE MATRIARCHS
BELLY RUMBLING AS SHE
PASSES INTO THE
ENCROACHING DARKNESS
buffalo thorns tangled together; turning
around, our eyes were ooded with the
blue-on-blue brightness of sea and sky.
Cape Vidal is a crescent-shaped
beach with a rocky ridge that reaches
out like a protective arm against the
force of the Indian Ocean. The sand
here is cinnamon-tinged and the water
is warm and silky; there are happy
holiday-makers and day-trippers
snorkelling and sandcastle building, and
anglers standing sentry against a backdrop of that never-ending coastline of
dunes and pounding surf.
Makakatana Bay Lodge (www.makakatana
baylodge.com). Doubles from 306,
including activities, excluding drinks
Above, at the Thanda Safari Lodge, buildings are inspired by Zulu homesteads. Opposite, Dumile Nene, a traditional singer at Thanda
79
GULP AT THE GUT-WRENCHING POWER, DUST AND FURY OF THE INDLAMU AND
ISICATHIMAYA DANCE. THE RHYTHM OF THE ZULU NATION IS EVERYWHERE
Opposite, a giraffe at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve, the park famous for saving the white rhino from extinction in the 1950s
83
strictly off
AN INSIDER CROWD OF OLD IBIZAN HANDS ARE QUIETLY ZONING IN ON MENORCA,
the record
THE BEAT-FREE BALEARIC. BY PAUL RICHARDSON. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MIRJAM BLEEKER
85
tT
Above from left: the breakfast delivery service at Torralbenc; razor clams at the hotels restaurant; the pool. Opposite, clifftop tables at Cova den
Xoroi. Previous pages, clockwise from top left: Es Mercadal village; the entrance hall at Ses Sucreres hotel, Ferreries; Playa son Saura; the terrace at
Sant Joan de Binissaida; Ses Sucreres breakfast; ajo blanco at Torralbenc; the interior and sign at Ses Sucreres; Cala es Talaier; Cas Ferrer restaurant
87
in the south are sheltered, womb-like coves where the sea has a
colour of almost Caribbean intensity. Someone at the hotel had
mentioned Binigaus. I found it on the map and walked there on my
rst evening. The path to the beach bordered a low wall and, beyond
it, a corneld where a hawk swooped on the woods edge. Before
tourism added cachet to beaches, they were forgotten places where
the farmland ended. And that evening I saw only a few couples
along the shore. There was a little discreet nudism.
Menorca makes less look like a great deal more. Take the nightlife,
or almost total lack of it. Its true that the island has no discotecas
worth the price of admission, but this only makes me love it all the
more. The Menorca branch of Pacha lasted a few years before closing
due to lack of interest. And the new franchise of Space Ibiza (it
opened in Ciutadella harbour) seems a reckless venture. Banging
techno in a place where people prefer a quiet G&T with friends?
I went along one night and found it half empty.
The Cova den Xoroi club is the exception that proves the rule. Its
a series of interconnecting caves halfway up a cliff, which open out
like mouths in the rock face, leering down at the ocean. Handsome
couples in statement sunglasses gazed into the sunset while the
down-tempo music pulsated soothingly. Signs exhort you not to hurl
things off the cliff. More than a place to dance, this is somewhere
to cradle your drink and lean on the wooden railings to watch the
sun dip into the hugeness of the Mediterranean. Far below, two girls
paddled along in a kayak. The crowd waved down at them.
A prosperous-looking young Chinese couple had taken the
whole of Covas VIP section, a natural terrace where the views are
vertigo-inducing. Thin and languid, they lolled on daybeds under
white-cotton canopies, sipping Mot as they took seles on their
smartphones. I had seen these cool customers before: they were
also staying at Torralbenc.
A thought occurred to me: what were the things about Menorca
that I would recommend to this smart young pair? Torralbenc
and Cova den Xoroi would be on the list, for sure. But so would
Lithica, a former limestone quarry transformed into an enchanting
underworld of gardens and dramatic spaces, and the enigmatic
stone tables of the Neolithic talayot at Torralba den Salord. And
Ciutadella, the Spanish Renaissance town that feels more like Italy,
with its palaces and whitewashed arcades. I would send them to
restaurants where the curious culinary conuences of traditional
Menorcan cuisine (Arabic, Catalan and British) are made new by
a raft of creative cooks. I would invite them to sample the delicious
Chardonnay made by Binifadet winery, one of only a handful on
the island. And nally, if pressed, I might just reveal the whereabouts
of those virgin beaches.
Theres a magical islet off the starkly beautiful but sparsely populated north coast.
from its shore i could see the harbour where the king of spain goes to eat lobster stew
As we roamed the island, young Garriga pointed out its various
curiosities: the giant rainwater cistern; the single, lovelorn male
goat; the waving elds of undersea poseidonia. Everywhere blue
lizards called sargantanas (hence the islands name) darted
among the rocks and dry grass. From the western shore I could
see the harbour of Fornells, where the King of Spain goes to
eat lobster stew; from the eastern side, the wild outcrop of La
Mola, uninhabited and unvisited, practically off the map. The
place to stay on Isla de las Sargantanas, in a little stone house
built by the British Army in 1801, was hardly a paragon of style.
But the Robinson Crusoe romance of the place, the perfection of
this Mediterranean idyll, was something I would never forget.
On a Sunday afternoon after a big lunch of rice and sh and
an hour or two in the cool, dark quiet of my room, I found my
way down a long dusty track through a forest.
bay. The water looked like turquoise ink. I pushed out into
the shallows from a stone boathouse, heading for a patch of
glassy blue where I oated on my back for a long while, looking
up at the sky and the craggy cliffs.
With the onset of evening came the faintest breeze.
Shadows were creeping eastwards, as if chasing the sunlight.
Then I heard the most wonderful sound. Someone was
playing the ute in one of the caves a childlike melody
whose echoes tumbled out across the natural auditorium of
the bay. My mind turned to mythical and Homeric things: the
wine-dark sea and Syrinx, the nymph that turned into a reed
bed, inspiring her suitor Pan to take up the ute. I had been
looking for exclusivity, but this was a gift from Menorca to
me alone: a dose of the Mediterranean in its legendary, rare
and undiluted form.
Above from left: Cas Ferrer de sa Font, an organic restaurant in Ciutadella; Confetti interiors shop in Plaa de la Llibertat in the city; Plaa de
ses Palmeres; Bar Ulises in the centre of Ciutadella; a bedroom in Villa Cala Binigaus, a holiday rental on the south of the island
90
PLACES TO STAY
Torralbenc A vineyard planted by Rioja vintner Remrez de Ganuza
was the origin of this country hotel from the folk behind Cap Rocat.
The interiors have a coolly neutral, natural feel. The restaurant, run by
33-year-old Paco Morales, serves local ingredients with a twist in dishes
such as sea-bass ceviche. Other highlights: the chill-out area beside
the old threshing oor; the walk-in showers; the San Nicasio crisps.
www.torralbenc.com. Doubles from about 150
Cas Ferrer de sa Font Beatriz Gmez and Emma Salud had been
working in London restaurants until, sick of using lemons from China,
they returned to Beas native Ciutadella to open Cas Ferrer. This
restaurante ecolgico in an old blacksmiths uses only organic local
products. The salad of pigs trotters and coca of tuna marinated in
orange and fennel were two of the best things I ate on my trip.
www.casferrer.com. About 50 for two
HOUSES TO RENT
PLACES TO EAT
Sa Parereta den Doro Teodoro, Doro for short, is a genial cook whose
restaurant is a long-established xture in Sant Lluis. It has a pretty terrace
and the baked hake with saffron mahonesa reminds us that Menorca is
the home of mayonnaise. www.sapareretadendoro.com. About 65 for two
Cap Roig For good freshly landed sh, there is nowhere better on
Menorca than this family-run place on a headland outside the village of
Sa Mesquida. www.restaurantcaproig.com. About 50 for two
Can Aguedet Feast on traditional specialities such as oliaigo, a cold
soup of tomato and peppers served with gs, and stuffed aubergines at
this been-there-forever spot in Es Mercadal. +34 971 375391.
About 50 for two
97
LOVE AT
FIRST BITE
ARE THERE ANY HIDDEN CORNERS LEFT IN PROVENCE? MICHAEL BOOTH
DELVES INTO VALLEYS DEEP AND HILLSIDES HIGH TO ROOT OUT ITS FOODIE
SECRETS. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL PAUL
98
LIFE IS STILL LIVED HERE AS IT HAS BEEN FOR CENTURIES. HORSES PLOUGH BETWEEN THE
VINES, GOATS ARE HERDED ON THE HIILLS, WOOD SMOKE SPIRALS FROM STONE CHIMNEYS
We think of Provence as an abundant
larder, with its orange-eshed Cavaillon
melons, coal-black olives from Nyons,
the courgettes, the apricots, the cherries,
but the truth is its remarkably difcult to
eat well in the area I think of as my
Provence. This is the western part of the
Vaucluse, the former papal territory for
500 years known as the Comtat Venaissin
or simply the Comtat.
It is a wasteland for restaurants, admits
Walter Wells, formerly of the International
Herald Tribune and a part-time resident
of Vaison-la-Romaine, in the north of the
region. He has three decades experience
of the area twice mine but I am
determined to snufe out the best that this
forgotten part of Provence has to offer
the serious eater and prove him wrong.
Vaucluse means closed valley, and
you get a sense that life is still lived here
in the shadow of that Tour de France
Opposite, clockwise from top left: a poppy-strewn olive grove near Beaumes-de-Venise; Costoluto Genovese tomatoes in the market at Vaison-laRomaine; candied fruits from Conserie Clavel in Carpentras; Avignons caf scene; new-season strawberries, Vaison-la-Romaine; timeless style in
Carpentras; ripening cherries; La Mirande hotel in Avignon; Provence garden roses. Previous pages, left: aperitifs and local produce at Metafort B&B in
Methamis. Right, clockwise from top left: the pool at Metafort; dessert at LOustalet in Gigondas; vineyards near Venasque; dining table at Metafort
100
102
104
THERE IS SOMETHING ABOUT THE VAUCLUSE: FALL FOR ITS CHARMS, AND YOU TEND TO
FALL FOR GOOD. THE PLACE SEEMS TO INSPIRE A KIND OF DOGGED COMMITMENT
has an edge to it, but his hotel is one
of the most captivating in France, with
its Roman foundations, lavish,
18th-century-style decor and treasures
hidden in plain sight, such as the
Impressionist paintings which hang
here and there. Squished against the
mighty walls of Le Palais des Papes,
the 14th-century building has been home
to a rogues gallery of cardinals and
mayors over the centuries, until reopening
as a hotel-restaurant in 1990 following
a two-year restoration. There is also a
well-preserved 19th-century kitchen in
the basement, the venue for cooking
courses and intimate dinners.
We dine in the ground-oor restaurant,
serviced by the kitchen of chef JeanClaude Aubertin my kind of French chef.
No one knows how to turn vegetables
any more, he sighs, when I compliment
him on the perfect, rugby-ball-shaped
Opposite, clockwise from top left: table for two at LOustalet in Gigondas; a starter of beef on a sauce of fresh herbs at LOustalet; Domaine du Clos
des Tourelles in Gigondas, owned by the Perrin family; chef Laurent Deconinck gathers spring onions in his vegetable garden. Previous spread, right:
the Chinese Cabinet room at La Mirande, with 18th-century handpainted wallpaper. Left page, clockwise from top left: a room at La Mirande; silver
spoons at the cooking school; breakfast on the terrace; vintage tableware and olive jars at the cooking school; the gourmet restaurant; cod with
owers of raw and cooked vegetables; afternoon tea in the palm court, all at La Mirande; evening view of Avignon; chef Jean-Claude Aubertin
106
WHERE TO STAY
La Mirande A 14th-century mansion with
26 rooms. Avignon (+33 4 90 14 20 20; www.
la-mirande.fr). Doubles from about 365
Le Chteau de Mazan, a former home of
the Marquis de Sade, is now an appropriately
theatrical private hotel with restaurant
(the infamous marquis held Frances rst
theatre festival in the dining rooms). Mazan
(+33 4 90 69 62 61; www.chateau
demazan.com). Doubles from about 95
Metafort A contemporary, Scandi-chic
maison dhtes east of Avignon. Mthamis
(+33 4 90 34 46 84; www.metafortprovence.com). Doubles from about 115
WHERE TO EAT
Bistro duO New restaurant in old bishops
stables. 1 Rue du Chteau, Vaison-la-Romaine
(+33 4 90 41 72 90). About 70 for two
LOustalet Fted one-room dining room.
Gigondas (+33 4 90 65 85 30; www.
loustalet-gigondas.com). About 70 for two
Le Pont de lOrme is an exceptional-value,
pretty restaurant run by the Girard family in
their home by on the outskirts of a popular
jumping-off point for Mont Ventoux cycle
tourism. Malaucne (+33 4 90 46 17 50;
www.lepontdelorme.com). About 28 for two
WHERE TO SHOP
Truffe Plantin, Route de Nyons, Puymras
(+33 4 90 464 144; www.truffe-plantin.com)
Pascal Arvicus For saffron.
LOr Rouge des 3 Rivires, Le Jas Ngre,
Entrechaux (+33 6 15 81 21 01; www.or3r.fr)
Abbaye Sainte-Madeleine Hilltop
monastery shop. Le Barroux (+33 4 90 62
56 31; www.barroux.org)
Martinelle Wines, La Font Valet, Lafare
(+33 4 90 65 05 56; www.martinelle.com)
Aline Ghant Chocolatier, 15 Rue des Trois
Faucons, Avignon (+33 4 90 02 27 21; www.
agchocolatier.e-monsite.com)
Fromagerie du Comtat, run by Claudine
Vigier,was recently voted one of the 10
best cheese shops in all France. 23 Place de
la Mairie, Carpentras (+33 4 90 60 00 17)
Silvain Frres Traditional nougaterie. Route
de Vnasque, Saint-Didier (+33 4 90 66 09
57; www.nougat-silvain-freres.fr)
Le Vieux Moulin Artisanal extra-virgin olive
oil from local groves. Quartier Maupas,
Puymras (+33 4 90 12 02 57)
Peyrerol One of the regions nest ptissiers.
7 Cours Henri Fabre, Vaison-la-Romaine
(+33 4 90 36 04 91; www.peyrerol.com)
Conserie Clavel For traditional fruits
cont, as well as chocolates, jams and ice
creams. Place Aristide Briand, Carpentras (+33
4 90 29 70 39; www.clavel-conserie.com)
Opposite, clockwise from top left: dinner at La Mirande in Avignon; selection of cheeses at La Fromagerie du Comtat in Carpentras; caf table in the
village of La Roque Alric; a dish of roasted lamb with a garlic emulsion at LOustalet
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A TRAVELLERS TALES
ETHAN HAWKE
The actor and writer won praise for movies as diverse as Reality Bites and Training Day,
but it was his role in the Before Sunrise trilogy that inspired a whole generation of adventurers
Where have you just come
back from?
I was lming in New Mexico, then I
went home briey to New York, and
now Im in Toronto. Canadians are
some of the best people on the planet.
Theyre like Americans improved;
Americans without all the blood on
their hands. One of the things I love
about Canada is that its ag looks like a
symbol of peace, not war.
Where in the world have you
felt happiest?
New York City. Greenwich Village in
the summer time is heaven. I always
wanted to go to New York when I was
younger; I thought of it as a mecca
for a certain type of artistic personality,
so I kind of always longed for it
and nowhere cuts us as deep as those
places you long for as a kid. Then there
are the ones Ive come to love, like
Shakespeare and Company book store
in Paris, which is one of my favourite
places on earth. And Austin, Texas,
because I was born there.
Name a place that most lived up
to the hype
Lincoln Center Theater in New York.
When you perform there, it feels like
youre in the bulls-eye of the universe.
And a place that least lived up
to the hype
The Great Wall of China. Im going to say
something off-colour and youre not going
to print this, but I dont care if you do. Its
sort of like how my sister felt the rst time
she saw a penis. The rst time she saw
one, she was shocked at how normal-sized
it was. I felt that way about the Great Wall
of China. I heard that you could see it
from outer space, and its a very impressive
wall, but its still just a wall.
Which is your favourite city, and why?
Austin. My friendship with [writer and
director] Richard Linklater started there,
and its where weve made some of the best
movies of my life. Its kind of a magical
city because it has all the greatness of
Texas without the small-mindedness that
can sometimes accompany it. And its also
a rocknroll capital. If youre serious
about rocknroll, you gotta go to Austin.
I LOVE CANADAS
FLAG. EVERY OTHER
COUNTRYS ONE
LOOKS LIKE A SPEAR
COMING TO STAB YOU
Describe your favourite view
Im trying to say this in a way that doesnt
sound corny, but if I see all four of my
kids at one time, thats my favourite view.
And I couldnt give a shit where we were.
Whats your favourite place youve
been for work?
When I was 18, I lmed White Fang in
Alaska for six months, and it was one
of the most incredible experiences Ive
ever had. I still dream about it.
Describe a memory from a
childhood holiday
Camping in the Rocky Mountains with
my dad, I remember waking at night and
watching beavers building a dam. Its
probably part of why Richard [Linklater]
and I put a father-and-son camping scene
in Boyhood. I spent the most valuable
time with my dad away from the world.
Where did you go on your first
holiday without your parents?
London, when I was 16. Then I took the
boat to Calais for a month of inter-railing
ST MAWES
With a clutch of seriously smart places to stay, Cornwalls most rosy-cheeked shing village has
a little extra kick this summer. By Ticky Hedley-Dent. Photographs by Matthew Buck
IN BRITAIN
RITZY RENTALS
EVERGREEN CLASSIC
Olga Polizzis Hotel Tresanton is still the
grande dame. It may not be hip, but its
certainly beautiful. Fossil sculptures, maps,
local art and objects with a nautical theme
connect the rooms with their surroundings.
Images of lighthouses are dotted around
the bar and peek out from menus, towels
and coasters. The terrace is understated, a
NORDIC NOOK
Interior-design fans will love Vara, a
waterfront holiday house with a Victorian
faade and fresh new interiors decorated
in Scandinavian style. With its white,
oiled-oak oors and understated, bespoke
furniture, it has a calm, grown-up look.
Design classics such as the Teddy Bear
chair will make collectors envious. Work
by local artists Myles Oxenford, Ferris
IN BRITAIN
heads up this artists colony and will guide
you through the treasures. www.thesquare
gallery.co.uk; www.watersidegallery.co.uk;
www.chrisinsoll.com
WHAT
TO SEE
& DO
FABULOUS FERRIES
GOOD CATCH
Anglers of all ages will love mackerelshing on the Madeline Rose with James
Brown. Hell bring up lobster pots while
little ones drop lines over the side. They
might even spot a dolphin. +44 7891
300078; www.shandtripstmawes.co.uk
ANCHORS AWAY
WHERE THE ALL-ROUNDER
TO EAT & Bag a family-friendly booth
DRINK and tuck into moules frites or
a juicy burger at The Watch
House. Chef Will Gould sells takeaway sh
and chips out the back, serves up fabulous
homemade cakes all day and transforms
the place into a smart restaurant at night.
Book ahead in summer, and dont miss
lobster night. +44 1326 270038; www.watch
housestmawes.co.uk. About 70 for two
SWEET TREATS
Anyone with children should explore
Fudge & Moore, which sells delicious
ice cream and fudge, as well as shrimping
nets, model lighthouses and buckets
and spades. +44 1326 270126; www.
fudgeandmoore.co.uk
SECRET SUPPER
For a foodie adventure, try the Hidden Hut
CORNISH CHIC
WHERE Grace & Favour is the place
on a feast night. This tiny, open-air caf
above Porthcurnick Beach is run by Simon TO SHOP for oaty dresses, kaftans,
pumps, charm bracelets and
Stallard and his Cornish girlfriend Jemma
Glass. Stallard is a talented chef, with crab scented candles. For a splurge, check out
Charlie Polizzis wondrous shop Onda and
gratin, bouillabaisse and Goan sh curry
pick up some industrial jewellery, a Pazuki
among his specialities, and tickets for the
print top or a Tissa bag. www.graceand
feasts priced from 9 to 20 depending
favouronline.co.uk; www.ondarocks.co.uk
on whats cooking sell out an hour after
theyre posted online. Diners bring their
ART ATTACK
own cutlery and booze, and eat around
Its worth delving about in The Square
giant re pits on the beach. Alternatively,
Gallery. Owner Cathy Talbot has a keen
go at lunchtime for Italian meatballs,
eye and sells stunning work by local artists
Spanish-style salt-cod or king prawns, all
including Trevor Price and Rosie Scott.
served with a smile. www.hiddenhut.co.uk
For pretty seascapes, driftwood mirrors
FOR THE PICNIC BASKET
and colourful mosaics, visit the Waterside
Pop into Deli-cious and buy a succulent
Gallery. Collectors visit The New Gallery
crab sandwich to eat on the sand. And
in Portscatho, where the works of Chris
check out the homemade jams lovingly
Insoll, Trevor Felcey and Alice Mumford,
stacked in the window. +44 1326 270045
among others, grace the walls. Insoll
116 Cond Nast Traveller August 2014
FLOWER POWER
Gardeners love the Roseland Peninsula,
and its no wonder: they are spoilt for
choice. Highlights include the subtropical
Lamorran House Gardens, the extensive
grounds at Trelissick and the magical
Lost Gardens of Heligan, where you can
amble around a jungle, a wildlife-viewing
area and award-winning restored vegetable
gardens. The truly committed should
book a tour of the Tregothnan estate:
the Boscawen familys garden has an
extraordinarily diverse collection of rare
plants and trees from around the globe.
Get lost in the worlds only camellia maze,
then chill out with a cream tea made from
fragrant leaves grown on site.
all in
the detail
THIS MONTH ON
CNTRAVELLER.COM
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
THE EXPERTS
Any fool can pack one of everything; the real art is packing everything into one.
This month, the Geek has found items to assist you in this Sisyphean task.
TERRAFUGIA
FLYING CAR
The holy grail of convergence.
Part helicopter, part plane, part car,
the TF-X (above) uses the same
vertical-take-off-and-landing
(VTOL) technology as US military
aircraft. If this bad boy works, travel
is changed for ever. The eight-to10-year development period may
sound too long a wait, so in the
meantime place a 6,000 deposit
on the non-VTOL Transition, in
production. www.terrafugia.com;
Transition about 166,000
COLONEL LITTLETON
NO.11 SURVIVAL BELT
Survival is a preoccupation of the
Geek. So a belt that not only holds
up your trousers but would allow
you to abseil down a cliff if necessary
deserves respect. It isnt pretty, but
youll be smug when you need it.
www.colonellittleton.com; about 100
SOLARMONKEY
ADVENTURER
iDevices drain power rapidly, so
a back-up battery is vital. Combine
this with an efficient solar panel
FALKE COTTAGE
SLIPPER SOCKS
Nothing hi-tech here, but the
combination of two essential items
makes these Geek-worthy. For an
autumn trip to a cottage up north,
what could be better? Convenient,
warm, compact just dont show
them to anyone but a legally lockedin partner. www.sockshop.co.uk; 46
rewarding travel
Explore the cultural gems that Europe has to offer and
add to your experiences by earning points through the
world-leading IHG Rewards Club
aving upgraded its earning structure in July,
guests at InterContinental hotels in Europe can
now enjoy four times more points*, on average,
per stay and unlock a range of special perks,
unbeatable discounts and travel extras worldwide.
Weve picked our three favourite destinations.
*Based on data for stays at InterContinental Hotels & Resorts hotels in Europe between January 1, 2013 and December 31, 2013. For full IHG Rewards Club programme
terms and conditions please visit www.ihgrewardsclub.com/terms 2014 InterContinental Hotels Group. All rights reserved. Most hotels are independently owned and/or operated.
CHILDREN IN THE
HAMPTONS
MACKEREL
with olive oil and very nely chopped garlic and a salad of
deep-pink beefsteak tomatoes, sliced and overlapping onto a
platter with a thick, mustardy vinaigrette, a scrunch of sea salt
and plenty of ripped basil or mint over the top. If youve thought
ahead, a green sauce whizzed up from parsley, mint, anchovies,
garlic, mustard, capers and olive oil will be perfect alongside. If
youre out on the water, a squeeze of lemon will go a long way.
GREECE
Treasure
Islands
island idylls
Santorini: all sleepy laidback island on the outside, all
smouldering caldera on the inside. Actually ve islands
set around an active volcano deep in its blue waters,
this Greek island has elicited many a legend; indeed,
Cousteau looked for the lost city of Atlantis here. It also
sets the scene for beaches with white, red or black sand,
spectacular rock formations and extraordinary lunar
landscapes. Its seaside villages seem to defy gravity,
tumbling down the volcanos caldera, their elevated
status ensuring eagle-eye views of the Aegean Sea
an unforgettable backdrop to endless gastronomic
offerings (its volcanic soil supports everything from
egg plants to goats think delicious cheeses to
fabulous wineries).
Said to be formed from the petried bodies of giants
killed by Hercules, Mykonos, too, has its own
share of mystique. The Cycladic architecture of its
capital, Hora, encompasses narrow marble streets,
whitewashed houses, colourful doorways, hidden
churches and lively waterfront festivities. But look closer
and discover Little Venice, an 18th-century district
of grand captains mansions with colourful balconies
over the sea. Relax at a waterfront caf and admire
quaint windmills on the hillside above. Head south for
cycladic charm
TOURIST
INFORMATION
FOR
st mary mead
When characters from one travel narrative appear in another, its like
meeting the ghost of an old friend. The White Nile Diaries, by John Hopkins
(IB Tauris, 15.99), about two Princeton graduates who motorcycled from
Italy to Kenya in 1961, often produces this uncanny feeling. In Khartoum,
for example, Hopkins and his friend Joe meet Colonel Hilary Hook. This
charismatic gure later became famous for his role in Home from the Hill,
Molly Dineens 1987 documentary, which showed Hook returning to Britain
as an irascible but charming old man. Reaching Kenya, the young Americans
stay on the farm of Will Powys, brother of the Welsh writer, John Cowper
Powys. Id read about the African branch of the Powys family in the journals of Wills niece, the
poet Mary Casey, as collected in A Net in Water and Under the Shadow of the Oath. Both
are neglected classics, the latter dealing with Mau Mau uprising in the 1950s. At one point,
Hopkins gets into a st ght with a red-haired big-game hunter. This was probably Derrick
Dunn, affectionately known to Africans as Bwana Siagizi (Mr Sleepy) because of the shape of
his drooping eyelids, according to Brian Herne, author of White Hunters: The Golden Age
of African Safaris. Dunn also appears in Jane Goodalls autobiography, Africa in My Blood,
helping the primatologist establish herself at Gombe Stream on the shores of Lake Tanganyika,
by supplying chimpanzee trackers. Herne was Goodalls boyfriend, but Dunn (who was
married) also seems to have been in love with her. The White Nile Diaries reminded me
of another account of a motorbike journey in Africa at roughly the same
time: Anthony Smiths High Street Africa. Smith was also author of Blind
White Fish in Persia, a superb book about a small Oxford University
expedition in 1950 to bring back a specimen of sh thought to inhabit the
underground watercourses of Iran. Yet another two-wheel safari is described
in Roddy Owens Africa, by the amboyant Roderic Fenwick-Owen,
who also wrote a book concerning Iran, The Golden Bubble, which
controversially renamed the Persian Gulf as Arabian, possibly as part of an
MI6 plot. Briey married to a Tahitian princess, Owen remains best known
for accidentally becoming court bard to the Sheikh of Abu Dhabi. Introducing himself as a
travel writer, he was mistaken for a poet. Asked to recite a ditty on the spot, he extemporised:
Through Abu Dhabis golden sands/We walked and talked until the sea/Crept up and
disenchanted me. He was duly appointed to a post he would hold for 30 years.
THE FOCUS
EL SECRETO, BELIZE
COCA-LEAF OIL,
THE SAME
LEAVES THAT
MAKE THE DRUG,
GETS THE
BLOOD FLOWING
INKATERRA,
PERU
THIS YEARS
AWARD WINNERS
Aaron Pinkwasser, Sigrun Gordon,
Klaudia Orr and Lauren Timmer
SPECIAL THANKS TO: FOUR SEASONS HOTELS LONDON AT PARK LANE, LAURENT-PERRIER CHAMPAGNE AND JAX COCO
Polly and Ed
Nicholson
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Sophie Atkinson-Clark, Serena
Polly and Claire Morrissey
Clementine Hodges
and Alexandra Black
Q
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ISOBEL FINBOW
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
CNTRAVELLER.COM
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NEW EDITIONS
VOGUE ON DESIGNERS
AVAILABLE NOW
VOGUE ON CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA by Susan Irvine (ISBN 978 1 84949 311 6) VOGUE ON COCO CHANEL by Bronwyn Cosgrave (ISBN 978 1 84949 111 2) VOGUE ON CHRISTIAN DIOR by Charlotte Sinclair (ISBN 978 1 84949 112 9)
VOGUE ON HUBERT DE GIVENCHY by Drusilla Beyfus (ISBN 978 1 84949 313 0) VOGUE ON RALPH LAUREN by Kathleen Baird-Murray (ISBN 978 1 84949 312 3) VOGUE ON ALEXANDER McQUEEN by Chloe Fox (ISBN 978 1 84949 113 6)
VOGUE ON ELSA SCHIAPARELLI by Judith Watt (ISBN 978 1 84949 110 5) VOGUE ON VIVIENNE WESTWOOD by Linda Watson (ISBN 978 1 84949 310 9)
QUADRILLE PUBLISHING, 15 EACH
INFINITY, IBIZA
ALONI, KEFALONIA
Relaxed
ElegancE
If youre looking for a unique villa holiday where you can enjoy the
last of the summer sun, James Villa Holidays has some spectacular
properties that ensure you catch every last ray
Clockwise from top left:
Bedroom in Grand Royal
Villa III, Egypt; Exterior
of the White House, Costa
del Sol; Bedroom in Casa
Tamareira, Algarve;
Outdoor area at the
White House; Living area
at Grand Royal Villa III
sumptuous style
For a hit of guaranteed hot sun, theres nowhere better
than Sharm el-Sheikh in Egypt. The Grand Royal
Villa III is one of a clutch of sumptuous properties in
the Grand Rotana Resort, offering three super-stylish
bedrooms, a state of the art kitchen and beautiful pool
area that looks out onto the Red Sea. Villa guests can
make use of the resort facilities, including the fabulous
spa and in-villa dining.
COMPETITION
COMPETITION PRIZE
WIN
COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for the Where Are You?
competition can be sent on a postcard,
by email or online (stating your full
name, address and telephone number),
and must correctly identify the place
described according to the instructions
given. 2. Entries must arrive no later
than the last day of the month on this
issues cover. 3. The Where Are You?
competition is open to readers of Cond
Nast Traveller who are 18 or older on the
date of entry, except for employees of
MAYS WINNER
The winner of Mays competition is David Lonsdale of
Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, who identied the picture
below as the Emirates National Auto Museum in Dubai.
He wins a holiday at Constance Lmuria in the Seychelles.
HOW TO ENTER
READER OFFER
BEACH
INTENSIVE ACADEMIC
PROGRAMMES
At least 15 hours teaching per week,
plus studio and exhibition visits, study
time and structured project work leaving
students better equipped to pursue a
career in the fashion industry or continue
into further education.
WANT TO WORK
IN FASHION?
COME AND LEARN FROM
THE EXPERTS
OUTSTANDING FACILITIES
Fashion Certicate
Ten weeks, starting every January,
April and October
AMAZING RESULTS
Our courses are based on real life
and students gain extensive exposure to the
working world. Importantly, our graduates
are finding jobs all over the world.
Fashion Diploma
One year course, starting every October
W
OST
WANTED
W
loves
THE
The new Hand & Body lotion for Silky Skin from Childs Farm will guarantee soft skin no matter how
adventurous your little ones are and, as with all their other products, it is kind and safe for all skin types no
matter how sensitive or eczema-prone it may be. 4.69, childsfarm.com
W
W
HEALTH & BEAUTY
NEOM
Who doesnt crave a bit of home
pampering? Neom Organics has a new
look and new fragrances to lift even
the most travel-weary of spirits. My
favourite has to be the Burst of Energy
Body & Hand Wash for its zesty notes of
grapefruit, lemon and rosemary.
16, neomorganics.com
Dream Destinations
Dream Destinations
EUROPE-UK
LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial
corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous
gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds,
butteries, owers, horses and carriages
no cars how could one not enjoy this
amazing paradise? You will nd this hotel
to have a great joie de vivre as well as
terric food. La Sablonnerie has recently
received the highly coveted award from
Cond Nast Johansen - Small Hotel of
the Year. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com
or call 01481 832 061.
Dream Destinations
EUROPE
BOUTIQUE BEYEVI HOTEL in ALACATI,
TURKEY. Nestled in the Aegeans stylish
Alacati town, the Beyevi is an oasis of a
boutique hotel lovingly restored from old
village houses. Matching the towns allure of
vintage and contemporary style, it is the
ideal hideaway for relaxation with a beautiful
pool, gourmet cuisine and 15 stunning
rooms. E: info@beyevi.com.tr T: +90 533
602 1600, www.beyevi.com.tr
NORTH AMERICA
ZURICH
HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA
The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16
individually furnished rooms is a real jewel
among the citys hotels. The family-run
and individual hotel and restaurant offer a
home from home to business travellers,
city explorers and Zurich lovers alike.
Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98
Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch
Dream Destinations
THE 60 BEST
NEW HOTELS
IN THE WORLD
Dream Destinations
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On The Move...
To Portugal
HERDADE DE CHAMIN
Chiado16
Boutique Hotel
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705
Chiado16 - Boutique Hotel is a charming hotel that offers luxury accommodation with
panoramic city views, in the heart of Lisbon's historic centre - Chiado. Perched on a hill,
this beautiful 17th century building lies in a tranquil square, just a block from Chiado's
main shopping and restaurant quarter, quiet yet still in the middle of the hub bub of this
lovely picturesque ancient city.
www.herdadedachamine.com
www.casa-das-campainhas.com
info@chiado16.com
www.chiado16.com
THE HOLIDAYS
OF YOUR LIFETIME
AT THE VILLA
OF YOUR DREAMS
www.vilamarques.com
B&W
HOTEL RURAL
www.bwhotelrural.pt/
+351 235 200 000 geral@bwhotelrural.pt
Lisbon Region
www.cookinghotel.com
On The Move...
To Portugal
On The Move...
To Greece
www.ekies.gr
your
mediterranean
hideaway
Halkidiki-Greece
Vilabranca
Thera
BRATSERA HOTEL
Hydra
www.bratserahotel.com
info@bratserahotel.com
+30-22980-53971
PALCIO BELMONTE
The Belmonte is about light, privacy, beautiful landscapes. An
attitude and a lifestyle. A house for whom, luxury is synonymous
of encountering ones emotions. Eleven suites, on 3700 sqm,
7 terraces, books, art, chimneys, piano, infinity pool.
A very discreet, attentive and imaginative team to give you the
best. To find the magic behind the red doors take one suite or take
it all in exclusivity!
+351 21 881 66 00 office@palaciobelmonte
www.palaciobelmonte.com
Historic charming
& stylish
Boutique B&B
Old Perithia
Corfus Oldest Village
t. +44 (0)203 490 9928
www.merchantshousecorfu.com
ITHACA GREECE
www.hotel-familia.com
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705
On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat
Handpicked villas
Tuscany
in
TUSCANY
MONTE ARGENTARIO
Luxury Villa Rentals
Property Sales
Invitation to tuscany
www.invitationtotuscany.com
Ideal for big families, groups of friends, corporate retreats, weddings and events
tuscanynow.com
On The Move...
Handpicked Properties
with Private Pools
A selection of beautiful individual
villas & houses with pools in
tranquil settings & areas of
traditional local culture.
*5((&(63$,1
/$1=$527(
%$/($5,&63
2578*$/)5$1&(
,7$/<&52$7,$
01954 261431
V5643
CREEKSIDE COTTAGES
Island Cottage
Holidays
01929
0
1929 481555
55
www.islandcottageholidays.com
www
islandcottageholidays com
01326 375972
www.creeksidecottages.co.uk
Corte di Gabriela
THE
MANSION
R E S O R T
H O T E L
&
S P A
UBUD
BALI
info@themansionbali.com - www.themansionbali.com
info@cortedigabriela.com
+39 041 5235077
On The
Move...
On The Move...
To Spain
La Maison DAix was once an elegant and private mansion belonging to priestess of love and well
known antiques dealer Henriette Reboul. After 3 years of complete restoration and renovation, the
architect Laura Juhen has turned the mansion into an atmospheric and refined little boutique hotel
in the heart of Aix-en-Provence. Nothing at this chic retreat has been left to chance and the result is
a stunning masterpiece. The 4 rooms at La Maison d'Aix are exquisite and have been decorated
with a real eye for detail. The Corset, Henriette's Bedroom, the Secret Garden and the Love Suite,
each of the rooms and suite is entirely devoted to comforting the body and mind whilst fitted with
the latest technology.
www.lamaisondaix.com
T: +33 4 42 53 78 95
Affordable
luxury
INDIA
Guaranteed Sighting
Romance with the Taj
Bespoke tours on India, Burma, Vietnam and China.
GOA/KERALA 14 nights from 897 inc ights.
Quote Cond Nast for further information!
To travel in style call 020 7258 7800 or visit www.goaway.co.uk
Germany
CHILE TOURS
France
SOUTH AMERICA
Madeira
Travel
Switzerland
Italy
Tailor-made holidays to
a delectable collection
of hotels across nine
destinations by air, sea,
rail or accommodation only.
Visit our website for
fantastic special offers
and inspirational ideas
Capri
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705
Marbella
is whats missing: noise. Stand on your balcony, 2,000 metres above sea level, overlooking a plunging precipice, and only a whisper
of a breeze disturbs the peace. It feels remote. And it is. A two-hour drive from the coast and the capital, Muscat, the nal 30km ascent
is a head-spinning ride of serpentine bends. This clutch of low-slung buildings, set on a lofty ridge and built from ophiolite rock,
merges seamlessly with its surroundings: lunar-like elevations with a crumpling topography and layers of strata in a subtly changing
palette of earthy colours. Inside, bedrooms are a restrained mix of minimalism and ethnic chic. There are monolithic marble baths,
Omani textiles, dark-wood beams and hand-painted juniper-branch motifs on the walls. Slip into the innity pool and gaze out over the
gorge as the sun sets, then sit down to a supper of lamb biryani and raita studded with pomegranate seeds, beneath a carpet of stars.
INSIDE TIP Jabal Akhdar means The Green Mountain in Arabic. Ask a guide to take you on a hike through one of the wadis,
such as nearby Bani Habib, where startling ashes of verdant life orchards of walnut, almond and apricot trees are hidden in
the foothills and irrigated by springs using special channels called falaj. AOIFE ORIORDAIN
Cox & Kings (+44 20 7873 5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk) offers four nights from 1,285, including ights, transfers and breakfast
BALI . BILOXI . CANCUN . CHICAGO . HOLLYWOOD, FL . IBIZA . LAS VEGAS . MACAU . NORTHFIELD PARK . ORLANDO . PALM SPRINGS
PANAMA MEGAPOLIS . PATTAYA . PENANG . PUNTA CANA . RIVIERA MAYA . SAN DIEGO . SINGAPORE . TAMPA . VALLARTA
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