VEEDO YOU TRAVEL TO SEE OR TO DISCOVER? Isn’t the real excitement of travel about discovering something new? At InterContinental” we share our local knowledge of a destination so you can enjoy what makes it unique. In Abu Dhabi or Dubai, for example, our Concierges will help you discover hidden gems, be it in the most unique sougs or the largest shopping malls in the world. Whatever Pets ora ORR iE yma eRe CEog rose ee URI ICS mIV Uy you long after you come home. Do you live an InterContinental life? @ peeeieoree nent ay INTERCONTINENTAL. Cerny loka ae atte aey In over 170 locations across the globe including DUBAI » KUALA LUMPUR + LONDON + SINGAPOREEditor’s Note Issue Sixty Nine, January 2014 ‘There's something about the arrival of a brand new year that brings out the adventurer in almost everyone. The promise of a fresh start seems to inspire us to seek new and exciting experiences in far-flung places, pushing our travel boundaries ever further. With that in mind, intrepid explorer Hazel Plush has tracked down the five destinations that should be on everyone’s to-visit list this year: from the wild Indian Ocean coast of Kenya to the mountains of Patagonia. In case you didn’t spend enough money over the holidays, we guide you towards the best of the January sales worldwide. And, if 2014 is all about budgeting, you're in luck because we have some great offers from dnata that should ward off the January blues. Elsewhere, I attempt to share a portion of the magic I encountered on my recent trip to Kyoto and Hiroshima, where history and great food were top of the agenda, while Will Donnelly takes us on a musical adventure in Memphis. Happy New Year! Leah Oatway Leah@hotmediapublisbing.com Triveller GNALA V ewr.masuine Managing Diretor Victoria Thatcher Eeitertal Director John Thatcher Editr Leah Oatway Contribating Editor Hazel Pash Seater Deiat ‘Adam Sneade Designer & Matrator ‘Andy Knappett Production Manager Chalitha Fernando ‘econ any ofthe aboce pope email frstname@hotmediapublishing comeee ee eee et Book tickets online and only pay for3. Prove your nerves before is too late, Promotion ends 31 January. CTEContents 65-80 33-64SEAMLESSLY BLENDS WORK AND PLAY. Ca eT Cerer) Conveniently located 10 minutes away from Dubai international Airport, Dubai Marriott Hotel Al Jaddaf offers views ofthe city landscape of Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay and the Burj Khalifa, DISCOVER A WHOLE NEW WORLD OF TRAVEL OPENING SOON. FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE VISIT \WWW.DUBAIMARRIOTTALJADDAF.COM aN PasTil iA BOLD JOURNEY. ONE THAT STARTED GENERATIONS AGO. ALL NEW 2014 CTS Take the road less travelled with the Cadillac CTS. It’s state of the art technologies and optimized safety embrace every challenge and risk. i's standard 2.0L Turbo with 272hp (net) and 3.6L V6 with 321hp (net) perform better than ever. And with standard Brembo brakes, CUE with 1237 genuine material and available 8-speed automatic transmission and reconfigurable digital instrument cluster, we're still paving the way forward to standout on the road today. t] CADILLAC PREMIUM CARE PROGRAM cadillacarabia.com Hi Facobook.com/CadillacArabia © Twittercom/CadillacArabia [AN Jonah futons, ol Free 300248 2000. UAE, Libety Abu Dhabi utiles Co. LC, Ab Dhabi Liberty Atmos Co, LC, Dba, Tl Fee 80 Ley (S437), Qatar, Mani Fang Co WL Doha, Te (74) 45 877, War, Te 7) 48 3665, Um AT (74) 490 1086 Kava, YsutA Alani & Sos WALL Howat Tt (65) 247 4400 Oman Oa Tang Estalahnent LC seat Te (96) 285 (2170. Baba, Natal tr Campary, ia, Te (7) 1745722. bane, Inge, era, (9611615 718, lean, Anat tnte,Amman Tl (62) 6580 3600,Cid‘The big ve ‘Anew year, @ new adventure! Hazel Plush picks the destinations to discover in 2014. Brazil Braal is whether promised land ot parties, neve the rhythms of Carnival lor the beach raves that are rauc ‘of whistles and catcalls. This year Sees the country combine its two m loves fiestas and football ~as the 2014 rd Cup rols into town in June. All ‘eyes willbe on the games, which are set totake over 12 its cities. Make the trip, spect a show with all the git, glamour, and glorious weath the country is famed for, For seasoned wells, the tournament will iso ovides a good excuse to venture beyond 10 de Janeiro, wth many of visited spots stepping up to the mark, Between matches, head to 1 of Portuguese y forested \mazon and ld favour Brazil's lest the thriving gastronomic nd luxury onping of S30 Paulo. The party won't end this var, either: Rio de Janeito is set tohost the 2016 Summer Olympics, 0 Braalis set to stay at the top of the travel wish ist Book eatly to avoid disappointment during peak dates: when it comes to Sao Paulo fixtures, you'll find us at the design-savvy Hotel Unique hotelunique.com), and when the footbal nits Ro de Janeito, at the Art Deco-style Fasano Ria (fasano.com.b. Outside the main cites, give pousadas a ty: they're independenty-run lodges, usually the countryside. Braziian Street food puts any football snack to shame: fuel upon plump shrimp skewers and: sdempat pastry parcels stuffed with ve ‘or chicken) ~ or go big with a paper bag astel de fir (deep tried dumplings) rapa, oF sugar cane juice, has @ sweet erby taste Check InSure; you know destination, ut what about Unspoit coastina? While try to squeeze in afew days at the end of thei 4x4 adventures inthe Great Rf Valley, it's worth dedicating a generous chunk willife-rch, 32 ofthe mo: Just south of Mon Indian Oe long lazy ste all ewaying palms and 1 Funai Keys sea, Further south lle ccessible only by air or boat. The isiand fringed with mangrove forest glassy waters ~ perfect for fishing, snd watching the islands’ plentiful biel Population, To the north les Watamu, with its extensive coral eet ~ under protection as part of the Watamu Marine National Prk is anything but; beneat find turtles and a rainbow Further up the coast, the is tovinitselis quiet, but the reef the surface you'l 3 tropical fish, {uses the culture of sub-Saharan Attica with the Middle area's prime spot on the Spice Route made it popula with Omai Arabs, who colonised tin the late hing control in the 18008), tive Muslim society remains, and the Old Town is a Unesco Worls Hertage Site, ited by arved doors on the Funai Keys: 17 dinky cottages, ‘each with fourposter beds and Jacuzzis (thetunzikey fatamu, smmodstionis sca Hemingways (hemingways-w {does @ good job, witha (which includes PADI c surrounded by undulating sand Eschew dry land fora traditional tun on the Indian Ocean: the local dhow sailing boats couldn't fee further trom the neon: els of Dubai Marina. Pack ign, and pretend you're the firsSS fa Nagar e YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME. NTR EUs Or ue eet a Meee RR UCU a et] apartment, exceptional facilities to cater for your special event and wide array of dinning options including the Award Winning Brazilian Churrascaria, you'll Toe ie Ree AIO ee MUO Ue LC UN CoM LC ROR CLC LCL ea aay wo eMail a CROWNEPLAZA.COM/DOHABP +974 4408 7777Patagonia Patagonia stradaies Argentina and Chie, a sinous, mysterious region steeped in legends and rch in beauty. When Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan discovered the area in 1520, he wrote of ite giants, and the wildness ofits peaks ‘and plateaus. While no trace of Magelian’s ‘ogres remains, the mountains do: head to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine on the Chilean side of the border to see what al the fuss was about. With its sharp snow topped peaks and dense emerald forests, the park is thought to be South America’s finest, and it was declared the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’ in November of last ve, by vitualtourst. com's 1.3 mili users, The prime attraction here is hiking the ‘W trai lures over 100,000 people per year, who brave thigh-burning ascents for peerless views of the park's whopping ice-blue lacie and jagged finger-shaped is at ts busiest, so plan your (or Apri or atthe very end of the yearn winter Une to September) temperatures can plummet to 10°C, making the trails impassable. YYou'l find Hotel Salto Chico (picture) in the contre of Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, on the banks of the Salto Chico waterfall. The lodge has just 49 rooms, land has a strong eco-tiendly ethos; this |s a great base for hiking, or a comfy spot from which to survey your wild surour Ruta 40 Stretches 3,000km down the western side of Patagonia; it's rough ready, and one of the classic road tip routes. There's no greater introduction toth iderness, ze and seale of the PatagonianScotland Scotland is chomping atthe bit for fence trom the UK, but while onder the repercussions of ne, the rest of Check In‘The Philippineseee SIX SENSES> Ifyou're planning on a grand celebration to mark Chinese New Year, then where better than one of the biggest suites in Shanghai? ‘The just opened Shangri-La Suite at the city’s Jing An Shangri- La hotel packs all manner of luxuries into its outsized space (over 300 sqm) and affords fine views of the fascinating architecture fanned out below. band of al. Thi Proud Car ‘Abba, The Bob Marley U2Permanent Buddy Holly Exhibition memorabiia, myriad photos memorabilia Check InWorld Traveller Reader Offers If you're in need of a new year pick-me-up, we have the perfect tonic — exclusive offers to get away from it all... dnatatravel.com Offer: 2 nights thorn AED2,120 er person, or from AED3,465 per person including atare, Offer: 3 nights starting from ‘AED2,760 per person, or from ‘AEDS,045 per person inclucing Includes: Stayin a Promir Harbour Room with breaktast Includes Stay ina Park View Fooom with breakfast dally and turn arporttansters Valid for stays from: Now ti March 31, 2014 ally and return aitport transfers, Pus, stay 3 nights ‘and receive an additional night free Valid for says from: Now ti February 16, 2014 Offer: 3 nights starting fro ‘AED1,885 per person, or from ‘AED3,410 per person including airfare, Includes: Stay in a Classic oom with breakfast dally and return aitport transfers Valid for stays from: Now ti March 31, 2014, Offer: 4 nights starting from AEDS,320 per person, of fon ‘AEDS,045 per person inclucing Includes: Stay ina King Garden Vile with breakfast daly, return ferry transters to Sihnouette Island and retuin airport transfers. Pus, two children Offer: 3 nights starting fron ‘AED1,210 per person, or trom ‘AEDS, 585 per person including Under 12 years stay tee. Valid for stays from: January W-Apai 13, 2014 Includes: Stayin a Deluxe Room with breakfast dally and eluin arport wansters, Valid for stays from: Now ti March 31, 2014 Offer:3 nights starting fom ‘AED 1,340 per person, or from AED 5,045 por porson including airfare Includer: Say in a Deluxe Room with breakfast dally and Valid for stays from: Jt 16-March 31,2014. InterContinental De La Ville Rome Check InShangri-La Hotel, Paris Ofer: 4 nights trom AED ‘AEDS,795 per parson, of from AED10,510 per person including airfare Includes: Stay in an Eitfol Premier Room with breakfast dally and return airport transfers. Valid for stays from: Now ti March 31, 204 What better way to experience an Imperial New Year than in ‘an Imperial Palace ofthe late Bonaparte family? Opened in 2010, the Shangri-La Hotel, Paris is a true gern amongst the jewels of Pais. Her, allrooms have the latest technology anc fittings, with most also boasting eye-catching views of the Eiffel Tower and River Seine Don't miss the opportunity to celebrate the Chinese New Year in style with dinner at the hotel's Shang Palace restaurant: the only Chinese restaurant in France with a Michelin Star Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Offer: 3 nights {ror AED1,830 er person, or trom AED4,595 per person including afar. Includes: Stay ina Grand Room ‘with breakfast dally and rt airport transfers. Valid for stays from: Now ti February 28, 2014. For a truly indulgent Chinese Now Year experience, why nat take yourself tothe heart of the action in Hong Kong? With our fantastic offer of a 3-night stay youll have enough time toenjoy the very best of Hong Kong, rom its famed shopping toits fabulous restaurants ‘and vibrant nightie. Having recently completed an exciting renovation, the hote offers '3 modern Chinese twist on -ontemporary design, giving Yyou the best of Asia in room ‘and out - many look out over the sprawling harbour Kanuhura Maldives Offer: 4 nights {ror AED7,420 per person, or tram AEDS,325 per person including airfare. Includes: Stay ina Beach Vila ‘with breakfast dally and return seaplane transfers. Ps, @ ‘complimentary upgrade to Halt Board, a free room upgrade, a Maldivian couples’ massage ‘and 50% discount on another spa treatment Valid for stays from: January 13-Apal 11,2014 Where do the Chinese go tocelebrate Chinese New Year? Well that would be the Maldives. Kanuhura isthe epitome of all that is Maldives, vith some of the best diving on site complemented by bare foot chic and avila ‘accommodation. We want you tohave the most relaxing stay ‘at Kanuhura, and of course ‘we want your holiday to be special experience from the moment you book it. That's why wee offering you a complimentary upgrade, a free night's stay a complimentary Maldvian couple's massage anda tree upgrade to half board, With all this taken care ofall you need dois work on topping up your tan, Hotel, Pr Horse Play Celebrate the dawn of the Chinese Year of the Horse at one of these superb hotelsOgfr:2 nights starting from ‘AED2,730 per person, Incladet: Two rights stay in a Coral Room including breakfast, plus tree upgrade to half board uneh or dinner Valid for says from: February 1 ti March 31, 2014 of our half board | ‘upgrade special on Abu Dhabi hotels to enjoy the very best of the UAE's capital Ogfr:2 nights starting from ‘AED995 por person Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Mangroves room inclucing breakfast, plus free upgrade to half board Valid for stays from: Jonuary 15-March 31, 2014. Offer: 2 nights starting from ‘AEDT15 per p Includes: Stay in @ Deluxe Room including breakfast, plus free upgrade to half board Emirates Palace ‘and enjoy a 50% discount on ba treatments stays from: Now tl March 26, 2014. Ogfer:2 night: AED748 pep Includes: Stay in 2 Superior City View Room including breakfast, plus free upgrade to ¥ . Valor fom arsey . tere Sao Offer: 2 nights starting from ‘AED 685 per person Includes: Stay in a One Bedroom Apartment including breakfast, plus free upgrade to half board I i mm f Mens 200 Starting trom Ester Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara Check InGRAND TOURS If this month's features have put you in the mood to experience the destinations first hand, why not take the hassle out of planning by booking one of these specially curated tours Offers are all subject to availabilty. For reservations email: nonairgsa®@dnata.com or call +871 43166671 Offer:7 days, Cusco to Cusco, Oger:7 days. om Arusha Offer: 13 days, Tokyo Offer: 10 days, Nesiile to starting ror AEDA,260 pe ring trom to Osaka, starting from New Orleans, starting rom person on twin-sharing basis. Arusha, st ‘AEDB,140 per person on twin- AED25,630 per person on ‘AED9,240 per person on twin- Departures from January 2014 sharing basis. Departures trom twin-sharing basis, Departures sharing basis. Departures trom onwards, January 2014 onwards. from March to October 2014. May to October 2014 Includer Sacred Valley and Includes: to wa Mbu guided Includes: Tokyo, Takayama, Includes Enis Presley's © Ollantaytambo ruins quided Vilage tour with traditional Mount Fuji, wasabi farm in Graceland, Creole cus tour with visit to a Paneterra lunch, Masa village visit. eat Matsumoto, sush lew Orleans, southern supported project, Inca Trail Lake Manyara, Serengetiand making, Geisha and Mak ‘mansions and historic guided hike and Machu Piechu Ngorongoro Crater game ladies dance. Pius lunch ata plantations. (guided tour Grives: witness the elusive Big traditional Japanese Ryokan WAL Fiveintheirnaturat habitat. (Inn) in Kyoto and a tour of Hiroshima’s attractions Offer: 11 days, Lima to Cusco, farting from AEDB,980 per person on twin-sharing ba Departures from March 2014 onward Includes: Colea Canyon, King of the Andes at Condor Cross, Lake Titicaca's floating isiands, Cusco and Ma hu, Travellers can ether trek the Inca Trail or goby train.Is the world’s most expensive ski chalet worthy of its price tag? Laura Binder checks into the $370,000 per night Chalet NOne could argue that Chalet N's loca lone is priceless: eat 1,660meties-up in » Oberiech, an alpine vilag laces even its up pour, lesser-know ha ake neig Lech (favoured by Dutch royals) inthe shade. The chalet’s vast terrace is the space to drink it alin from = dressed in furcraped, slope-acing daybeds ~it bears Uninterrupted vistas ofthe Artberg massit 3nd powder thick, skie-dotted slope Make forthe piste yourself anda lift wil whisk you straight onto the snow from the chalet’s Boot Room handpicked equipment hangs on heated racks. No time-consuming transters here hough if you do want to get about, the 's blacked-out 4xds and Porsche ne is the we But while t access St Cvistoph a off-piste sking excellent, you'll b for expecting more for your doar than good snow. Happily, Chalet Nis home not only to 17 suites - one just for children ‘and all with walkin wardrobes and private terraces ~but a lounge, bar, dining room, fondue room, wine cella, cinema, spa and ice bar Interiors are as resplendent as they are ‘generous. Oak smoky-grey furnishings, ebony accents ‘and gimmers of extravagance (rystal ‘embedded rugs: Swerovski shower in the pa; Hermes amenities...) nt to mention state-of the-art technology {As for Chalet N's piéce de résistance, jh cal: for grape and tobacco ‘connoisseurs the cellar has it: some 350 labels (the priciest at 6,000 Euros) can be found beneath the curvature ofits ceiling Sharing the space are 900 varieties of ‘cigar - we suggest you sink into one of the Guce armchairs to take For others, the spas. showstopper s0 large it flow making it the largest of any private 0 date, But there's more than just ming pool (this one has daybeds floating atop it for starters} shower’ curtain is made entrely of ce cube-sized Swaro of spa therapists (pl hand to pummel, ki erystals and a tear hairdressers) are on request (though sports’ masseuse Franco is the go-to man after a hard day on the slopes). Step out through its glass partition plop into one of two Jacuzis, But tat (35 combed rom 600 applicants) who you'll wish yo could take home with you. Onsite ata times (when do they sleep? | ask), their tasks cover anything from embroidering jour pllowcase to shaking favourite uippe (ask for barman talent) The in-house chets, meanwhile, rustle up first. ambled eggs dine on fine fate come nightfall. Though caviar and truttle-topped s with three-courses served for lunch you an forget about heading back out to thewithout at lea of Globe-Trotter dition, the perfect yry-on and looks great. Eé combination of leather and vuleanised fib mrporter.com and in the run: son sale, TheExperience nature and embark on an adventure on Sir Bani Yas Island at Desert Islands, Abu Dhabi. fo) clp Aw! jj DESERT ISLANDS Sir Bani tas, Abu Dhabi www.desertisiands.comTHE SHOW GOES ON 0 Hitoric Hat 7 ‘The real-life drama bebind one of Manhattan's most famous theatrical properties From its very inception more than a century ago, the buiding we now know as The Chatwal, A Luxury Collection Hotel, was destined to take centre stage. For starters, its beautiful architecture was the creation of famous Am architect Stanford White (responsible for Madison Square Garden, The Washington Square Arch and the New York Herald Building): six storeys of neo-Georgian brick and a fagade that featured six ram heads and two ram profiles. Its rand exterior hid the best of mo Check In technology and entertainment: from telephones to bilird room and even 3 small theatre. Upstairs, there were offices ‘and bedrooms for members, The club ‘opened in 1905 and just a decade later t ‘doubled in siz, with the city’ designating it a landmark The building's location on 130 West ath Street meant it was also at the ccentre of American theatre during the 20th century, just a stone's throw from Broadway, and it was quickly inhabited by the prestigious Lambs, a group of actors and theatre aficionados whe had rented a tow places before setting there, The Lamb's Club has had mote than 27 6,000 members, among them some of the worla’s foremost stars, including John Wayne, Douglas Fairbanks and Fred Astaire (who famously compared becoming @ Lam® with being knighted). They ae all key to have stayed at the rented quarters there at various points: John Barrymore (known as Jack) ved in the dormitory quarters on and of. It was here he met and briefly dated ared-headCheck In violent milionaire Harry Kendall Tha 1 to the glamour ofits era and the essence of Art Deco, Nods to its theatrical history remain in ence of the huge 18th-century ofthe original ooms hav and the in 1905 — complete ns heads and a plaque i ‘And, in a lasting homage to her grandtather, and in @ nod to the property'sBIG APPLE BOOKS New books about New York ALL THAT | comretions ‘on the Hudson WRITERS ON Nick Hand Loni ano iavine NEW YORK | the Hudson INever Knew That River is @ New ‘About New York Christeper Winn York icon: itfiows Food Biography through the stato Andhew F. Smith _) ard the Big Apple itso Nick Hand From fads to old favourites, Thought you knew NYC? Think gan this Goodbye to All That traversedits NYC the ithpace of lighthearted guide serves Ed. Sart Batten S00-mile length countless foodie tumphs. upal the qurky fects ond by Dike, geting to This mouthwatering book figues behind the 00-year This colecton of thoughtful essays know the stories _spils the cys gastronomic oldcity. Excellent via and sentimental short stores by New ofthe peope that secrets from where to find fodder tor knoweitals and Yorkvwtiters brings the ety highs and ive alongside the the perfect pastamy tothe uz masters tows tole water best steettood vendors Get to the Point Paola Navone has flexed his sizeable design muscle at this new Phuket resort. Point Yamu by COMO can be found at the tip of Cape Yamu, with sweeping views of the Andaman Sea and Phang Nga Bay, Food comes courtesy of two world-class restaurants, and aches and pains are taken care of at the on-site wellness retreat. Bliss. Check In> The market for vintage travel posters continues to strengthen, and this month (January 22) Christie's in London lays on a chance for you to bid for some of the best ski posters ever designed. Most hail from the carly part of the twentieth century, when skiing holidays truly caught hold of travellers’ imaginations and the first resorts competed to be viewed as the most glamorous. The Ski Sale also affords the opportunity to bag a vintage Louis Vuitton trunk, should the budget stretch. das Land der Sonne > Bored of the same old luxury ski resorts? Allow us to introduce Switzerland's W Verbier: Europe's newest and arguably most stylish alpine resort. The slopes promise adrenaline-packed days, the views are incredible, the rooms feature roaring fires, and when the sun fades there's plenty to keep you entertained. wverbier.com Check In> This bright orange piece of arm candy comes courtesy of Mulberry. The design house's cross- body Kensal bag is the perfect accessory to cheer up a city break outfit, wherever you are and whatever the weather. mulberry.com SIZE DOES MATTER ‘A new resort proves the old adage ‘big is beautiful’ right... Think you've seenall that the Maldives has fe? Wal Atmosphere Kaniush Maldives hastens to disagree: “hedevlopers behind sme of che mon populr cor inthe Made, including Constance Halo JomirahVietel and Viceroy Maldives, have ploghed their exaiva fist Atmosphere branded suet Expect ncompeshly vesting paces (ith ils ranging rom 100 to 200 eqeare tes on well at the int fll ied SO metre Swimming pool in he car Maldives pls the kindof Just William five-star loury befitting a vied lunch of extended-sty, boutique Manhattan hotel resrtof chara: Whare The Willa. Setin the heart of Manhattan theatre dst, close tothe UN bung, db wesiga! atmo Biyant Prk and some of the city's finest eateries, suites feature Hock color and re faifabicom This month sees the m ingpited by the mid-century modem movement. Check it out before the crowds descend, thewiliamnyc.comts alfajii- the Swahili word for dawn ~ and asthe sun breaks free of the eastern horizon it loods the plaine with amber light, ricking out the distinctive shapes of siratfe moving slowly among the fat topped acacias At such atime, there is no better place tobe than Sasakewa Lodge, high on its hill in the Singita Grumeti Reserve rom here you can see it all the endless savannah, the herds of game, the distant hills rolling north into Kenya. This is how it must appear tothe circling vultures: ‘view that defines the vastness and. unassailable majesty ofthe Serengeti heralding the tend ofthe long rains. Soon the dry sea will b storm clouds and scorchi ‘An east wind is blowing, in, banishing the anvil-headed g the grasslands ‘antl they areas brown as an old lion pelt. Already the wildebeest herds have left their calving grounds in the deep south of the park, forced to move on in search of water. But at Singita Grumeti the land is still green, the air stil rxin-washed and diamond-bright, and the great migration Tusa upwards of a million wildebeest accompanied by zebras in their untold thousands Twas in 2002 that Paul Tudor Jones, 3 Wall Street billionaire commodities trader mental philanthropist, leased i reserve from the Tanzanian overnment. At that time it was nothing a collection of clapped-out hunting concessions bordering on the western sotridor of ' world-famous erengeti national park. “The land in question ~ 350,000 acres in total - had been virtually shot out by ‘uncontrolled poaching, but Tudor Jones saw its potential. He began to turn thinge around, employing ex-poachers to stop the killing. Then and a tented ca hae built two safari lodges drive apart, and went into partnership with Singita, whose South African lodges are the ultimate in safari chic. The result is the classiest piece of wildlife real estate on the planet Sasakwa, the reserves is builtin the image of hip lodge, 1 Edwardian oe ‘manor house and furnished to match, with Venetian mirrors, crystal chandelier, dog fces ane ag lounge. David Shepherd paintings and photographs by Peter Beard add a touch of authentic Aftica, as does the life-size talking cheetah o f game viewing wasnt enough ~ bronze of the lawns And -annis, croquet, archery and cottages are named after the es of East Africa's safari history: How Tanzania h rst vist three dec every cottage comes with direct telephone facilities and internet ac heated infinity pln Here, safely tucked up each night in unrestrained opulence, Sabora isa tented camp that sets yo the plains at st armies honking and grunting i youSabors's nine lavish, air Bedouin tents are decked out in the style of Twenties hunting camp, with Persian rugs, silver candlesticks, cut-glass decanters and claw-foot bathtubs. Its so ‘Out of Africa that I half expect to into Karen Blixen or find Denys Fi Hatton sipping drinks on my sofa In the evenings, under a tre in which il Lamps hang like Christmas decorati T dine on amoked salmon and fillet of bee while hyenas yow! in the surrounding darkness and the Southern Cross cartwheels in slow motion across the sky. Yet forall ts glitz, Saborais a place in which to live a eace fora while in the opens to enjoy the space and catch the an older world that is no pulse easy to find ys a desert date tree Outside my tent g beneath wi we canopy stands a bed and aan umbrella for extra shade, Here ater breakfast I lie one morning, with a herd of impala browsing around me and nothing cle but waving grass and the blue faraway hills beyond. [feel the wind rushing over the earth, watch a bateleur eagle rocking and tilting acrots the sky, and think there ino finer place tobe. M a chon st days, as the bush comes alive to T meet Joe Kibwe, my and we set off nto the guide and drive boundless grassland tol efor cats, “The herbivores are out in force Quicksilver gazelles scud away at our approach, Giraffe - “the watchtowers of the Serengeti” - observe our progress and every ridge is adorned with a frieze of zebras. Atone point we count 400 eland Tatas eae ABE in a single herd, yet even they are nothing ompared with the wildebeest that have nally arrived in unimaginable numb or half an hour we watch them and when we leave they are still pouring out of the distant woodlands. “The nearest thing to a trafic jam you'll ever see at Singita Grumet,” Joe says Ie reminds me of the Mara in its age of innocence 30 years ago, a place where the grass meets the sy atthe edge of the world, with nothing but horned heads All day Jong, from blood-red dawn to apocalyptic between you and the hor sunset, we drive with the sounds ofthe plains in our ear - the sad cries of larks and long-claws, the shriek of erowned lapwings, the squeal of zebra atallions call while all around 1 to their mares us the wildebeest are moving in endless nting coburn ‘As always itis the carnivores that steal the show. First a leopard, lying ull length along a hough with all four le and tail dangling. Then the Sabora Pride, a 15-strong family of Honesses, small cubs and older offspring lorded over by two resident males with luxuriant tobacco AA few years ago they would have nk off at the first sign of our presence Now they regard us with almost total indifference, and ata time when lions everywhere are losing ground, it ie heartening to find such a healthy family enjoying Singita Grumet’s protection, *Seeing how relaxed the animals have become is a joy,” says Brian Heath, the managing director ofthe Grumeti Fund, the private conservation trust set up byi i ‘Tudor Jones, “When I first came here eight years ago they would take off as soon as they saw us. They had all been hunted from vehicles. That was why they were so spooky. Now itis so different. We have so much game and everything has really settled dove, Tn the week before my arrival, there was _great excitement when five black rhino were flown in from South Africa, to be ted by a welcome party that inchided Tanzania's president, Jakaya Kikwete Blick rhinos, once common in the Serengeti, were so heavily poached that by 1991 only two females remained; their return marks the beginnin of «mult million dollar relocation programme hacked by the Grumeti Fund, Eventually, with GPS chips inserted into their horns and a round-the-clock guard of specially tained rangers to protect them, they will be released into the national park, where they wil be joined by another 27 thinos over the next two years. “Rebuilding the biodiversity of the Serengeti ecosystem is our ultimate aim, Heath says, “and bringing back the chino isa key partof it How appropriate then, to discover that Singita Grameti has a lodge called Faru Faru (Rhino Rhino in Swahili), with a location unlike any other in the Serengeti Just as Sabora belongs on the of Fara Faru hides in an enchanted forest overlooking the Grumeti river. Here, as ina painting by Rousseau, colobus monkeys peck through the forest canopy, shy bushbuck wander beneath arcade flowering creepers and ‘swallowtail butterflies flip through the sunlight on green velvet wings. Tnto this jungle of shady fig trees and riverside acacias, nine luxury suites have been unobtrusively inserted. Each one has vast plateglas picture windows that slide open at the press of a button, and the décor isa pleasing mixture of cutting-edge minimalism and full-on Africana, The than the ult is more like & penthouse suite javentional safari lodge - but with wildest Africa all around you Wherever you stay in Singita Grumeti there is no disguising the fact that you are the comfort zone. This x living deep top-end tourism territory with knobs on, and it comes with a platinum price tag. Butt also comes guilt-free. You can chill out here with a clear conscience, knowing your tourist dollars will support all kinds of eco-fiendly initiatives, from bankrolling local schools and clinics to bringing back the rhino. Of course, what you are rally buying into is a Serengeti experience ina wilderness roughly the same size asthe Masai Mara. The difference is that the ‘Mara has beds for 4,000 vistors, while Singita Grumeti draws the line at 70. And that, together with forgotten pleasures dand the abundance of animals isthe greatest luxury ofall. @ such as the freedom to drive off7 alaleIwo Leah Oatway er) explores Japan's a CT a a 1e S the culture-rich ANG 102 and Hiroshima...fhe could speak English, and if despair. Icouldat blame him, his eab was ha co es eee eee er eer esr pero ear aR a Senora riers ty certain we'd have been open _itinto a washing powder adver. T made Cee ts ere eee ree eae cs the taxi driver as we made ouch See y rainwater that was now running: Pee og et ca eer eee meee Seen a (Our Kyoto taxi driver anxiously checked Peet on Peet eet eres e eee Cen een nn ac eet eee ens ain had pulled into Kyoto train jon just an hour or so earlier —we'd nowingly followed a tropical storm from Tokyo ~ butt hadn't matered. Thad decided I would ove Kyoto long before hubby and I had even booked our eo eee ee ‘monuments, the histor... rain was just ere pee sets tay Coes heen way through the tain Seekers en es cate (not an easy find in Japan, Se ad Pree eee tc eee rnevas cae eee oy coldest (it opened in 1890) and best-loved (its former guests include Queen Eli IL, Prince Charles and Princess Pree are eee sed Sree ee een ne a ean ee eed days in the capital and the perfect place to embark on three days PErernn ieee nen ieee ang Eee thhave sufered the destruction ofits major ‘monuments during the Second Woeld War, 10 it's full of ancient shrines, palaces, gardens and traditional homes ~ there UNESCO. protected sites within the prefecture, each b sting a rich and intriguing history We'd practically skipped the short distance from the hotel to our frst bonafide Japanese monument: Nanzen-Ji, remarking on how the weather added to the atmosphere. By the time we got to the temple grounds though, we were less aked, starty-eyed... just thoroughly We'd have to invest in warm clothing because there was alot to see and most of itwas outdoors. Nanzen-Ji was originally buil in the 13¢h century asa retirement pad Emperor Kameyama befor it ater became a place of worship. Even by Hollywood standards, its remains a prety impressive place to grow old it's worth paying the few yen it cost to scale the steep steps inside its cloud-reaching Sanmon entrance te (built in memory of fillen soldiers = during the 17th century) f views over the city. And dl king’ roek gat are prety spectacular the great arby Hoje the rocks are said to resemble tigers cro river, and ace carried goods between the city and the Shiga prefecture. ‘canal system that ee There's nothing like getting soaked to : the bone to work up an appetite. So after ah atthe hotel, we headed shower and quick wardrobe change students dressed in kimonos and traditional white socks, elegantly holding modern umbrellas a marvellous sight in itil). proposed to several times by a wealthy ‘American banker. Oyuki was in love with a Kyoto university student but jokingly said she would marry the American if he gave her 400,000 yen. He did, so she gave bout the money to the student she loved and left k she returned to Ky. Japan's obsession with Ramen noodles is well documented — the Japanese noodle soup is made of thick Chinese-style wheat noodles in a miso-Like broth that is usually accompanied by meat or vegetables wwe were yet to taste any. With much of the town closed because it was a Monday, ro and lived at the when we stumbled across atraditional- restaurant (then a home) with her sister ried Today, i's one of the most sought after dining looking Japanese restaurant we hi inside to discover we had chanced upon one of Kyoto's most popular, and magical, 0 we were hicky to escape the Ramen eateries ~ Gogyo, The restaurant, an intimate, dimly-lit normal queve and be seated immediately atthe counter beside a friendly Kyoto atmospheric affair, was the former home University medical student who spoke Kyoto geisha Oyuki, who atthe start broken English and was keen to practise of the 20th century, when she was 21,was Or ring food in Japan can be Japan with the banker. When he died, g, particularly if you don't speak the language. Overwhelmed by the ambience and the sight ofthe two chef in their bandanas and black coats busily preparing the eatery’ speciality ~ burnt ramen, that we decided to leave our mea choice up to the restaurant staff (and our 3 fiend). It was a go glass of local tea was followed by silky super-thick noodles in the famous miso like broth, accompanied by del naughty tempura vegetables served in iouly covetable Japanese crockery. Language barriers meant communication with fellow diners were limited to approving w raises and repetition of the word “good!” on our behalf, and ourphotographs later, we continued along the cherry blossom-ined tral ~ stopping to admire the vintage kimonos and charming local trinkets for sale in the boutiques that line the way and the eats that live in the area (well cared for by local residents). Lunch for me, omelette sandwiches of a darling French-style coffee shop, Café de Sagan, sdorned with vintage lamps, paintings and the like, before less sophisticated fruit-Bavoured ice-shavings and local lollipops that ‘came with the dubious recommendation of Hollywood heavyweight Leonardo Language ‘hile the native language is French, the city is a meting pot of nationalities and is ‘lose to North tia, so Yyou'e likely to hear other languages spoken. that’s been transformed into a free-to ‘access gallery, and MuCEM {the Museum for the Cwilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean). The latter, France's frst national museum outside of Pais, took more than a decade to build but finally opened last year andis located on two sites ~the Fort Saint Jean and J4 pier site ~ that are joined by a walkway, The locations are cuturlly significant: for centuries, people came and went via J4 Pier, nclucing the musicians and creative thinkers fleeing the Nazis. And the Fort Saint-Jean site is ren with military and civil history: from Greek and Roman runs to 8 medieval 15th-century tower Ending where the od port begins is the Panier, Marseilles old town, I's here that the fifst settlers made their home in 600 BC, and immigrants have been doing likewise ever since, The bourgeoisie expanded the area between the 16th and 18th centuries and the resistance forces hid here during the Second World War — take a walk to discover the remnants of its former residents. In Paner's contre is the Ville Charité building, too, home to Musée des Arts Afrcaine, Oceaniens et ‘Amérindiens (MAAOA| and the Museum of Mediterranean Archeology. In total, the city has more than 21 museums to satisty all tastes, and covering every period through to pr day. Most have had facelift ahead of Marseille's 2013 Capital of Culture status, {and often the buildings they are housed in have a story to tel: The Fine Arts Museum ‘and the Natural History Museum can both be found inthe Palais Longchamp, @ spectacular 19th-century monument built to.celebrate the Canal de Marseille. The Pare Longchamp, home to the famous Chateau d'eau fountain, surrounds it. The Museum of Decorative Arts, Fashion and ‘Coramics has found a suitably beautiful home at Borély castle, while the Japanese architect Kengo Kuma has made the exterior ofthe Frac Paca as incredible as the contemporary at it houses, Head tothe Marseile Museum of History on the right day and you may see archaeologists stil excavating on the grounds, while Musee Cantin (set in ‘glorious T7th-century manor) exhibits vintage att and the best of new talent. Jazz musie atived in Marseille during the interwar period and has never relly left. f you'e in Marseille in July, night, atthe Five Continents Jazz Festival is @ must, Otherwise, Le Cri du Port tion organises regular con ‘and, since 2011, the city is awash with ‘reat music venues, including Espace Julien ande So. ‘And literary fiends should take the short {ery ride from the docks to Chateau d'i~ the inspiration for Alexandre Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo. 0 duke. CONCIERGE Audrey Bert, chiel concierge at interContinental Marseilles Hotel Dieu, suggests three Ways to entertain you younger family members in Marseille, ts A treasure Hunt in historical Marseille An adventure combining siscoveries, encounters and clues! The intrigue focuses on a mat dowsing rod and takes chilen and ther parents through many areas, cultural venues and historical places of Marseille. Castle and Friou! Island Jump on a boat to tiscover the famaus it Castle and its Count of Monte Crsto legend, This ancient fortress and its secrets always make chillcen feel ike a hero or a pirate. Then, continue to the Frou Island: an exceptional place to siscover nature and vegetation typical of the south, Children’s atelier at the Jt museum Thote's an artistic and cultural event centre for 7 lectures, performances and concerts dedicated tochidren ~ all that with breathtaking view of the port and Beyond, On the way to the museum, be sure to stop in on the famous Glacier du Roy in place de Lenche for greatEssential Sydney EM NAM R ON TSS ea eM R MC een Rae ne eyes ci ean omc lt) Oyama eee R Nie Became omen) and iconic architecture: it's easy to see why Sydney rm Cou eae visited cities. And January ore maser) MVS UM TRS) se een aight ee [sleradTte Nal ee aT oe] Rogar 7iN Conan] een eMC R CMa lensdullest working day, particularly during 7 x the Sycney Festal, which runs trom es January 91026, when it (along with the rest ofthe city is a flurry of musi, art and entertainment. This year's festivities offer pa ty ecectc mix of attractions: from ja2z.nd ip hon gigs through to opera and symphonies under the stars, punk cabaret and acrobatics, a ife-ie inflatable Stonehenge and, et, Chaka Khan, Luckily, getting to and from these events should be a breeze, with Sydney's Tmuitiple modes of public transport. But it the buzz ofthe city centre gets alte ‘much then hop aboard one of the eegular ferries and cruise from bay to bay, taking in the spectacular views. Rose Bay, usta 20-minute tery ride David Patt, chiot concierge at InterContinental Sydney, Gives the inside track on ‘rom Sydney's Circular Quay, offers a Seer chance to expire some of the local Syney'st countryside often overlooked by tourists. —f ‘The Hermitage Foreshore track is one of Le Pelican Sydney's favoutte coastal walks, offering {teat views of the city’s harbour and major For those on a stricter time budget, the Royal Botanic Gardens is just a minute's ‘walk from the InterContinental Sydney and offers city-goers a grassy refuge to relax, hile exercise buffs can take advantage of the numerous jogging routes. ‘And as the sun fades, there's no need te head home. There's @ wealth of top restaurants to explore: enjoy an award- Winning fusion of Japanese-Austalan French cuisine at Tetsuya in its Japanese ‘garden; Quay, Australia’s most decorated eatery, serves exquisite food with views of the Opera House and harbour, while (One of my favourite French restaurants in Sydney, this bistro opened in. 2006 in a converted sandstone home that has certainly retained its local, homely feel, The duck is a standout dish on an imaginative menu that changes weekly Ormeggio at the Spit Chet Alessandro Pavoni’s innovative and contemporary take on Italian cusine has sincerely wowed me, sydney) ‘Momofuku Seibo creates divine dishes. ‘marina, ewey from the you must try his Built around the old Treasury Building of 1851, ‘window seats in every room ford prime viewing of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House, Fish at the Rocks A charming, friendly Lnpretentious seafood restaurant we recommend tomany of our guests, Justa short walk from the hotel, my favourite dish is the baby Barramundi (the fish is de-boned and the Shangri-La Hotel Sydney (shangri-la.comisydney) Unwind ater sight seeing vith @ spa treatment or thvee at CHI, The Spa, before dining at Alttude Restaurant - great food and equally great views. Barramundi meat is mixed with prawn meat then fried and served with a red coconut eury) LUE Sydney —A Taj Hotel tjhotels. com sydney) Ligh filed rooms in ns keeping with this boutique chie design savvy hotel's = History makes this whart property a great pace to Stay fore while sonata Aan Eyeconetrge Suite Dreams What About: La Suite Shangri-La Hotel staff tellus it's the best suite in the world - and ate admittedly think they looking Where Sha ihts and ts the Eitfe Towe that you fee ike touch it, La Suite ‘Shangi-La is the crowning Glory of the Shangri-La Paris. The 220-square- 18arrondissemes 8 aioiigsoment, Paris 12arrondissement metre Petre Yves Rochon designed space, which sane extended to 500 square mettes (spanning the entire seventh floor, utes @ sumpeee y ed icy een ane ere re Jewellery that mirrors a diverse heritage eee ‘Coveted for centuries. Desired bythe disceming, Incredible India COO Cee ete eeeMoney can fund retirement. But ambition gets you there at age 50. 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