Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Part Numbers
Part numbers listed in this reference are not recommendations by the Publisher for any product
brand name. They are references that can be used with interchange manuals and aftermarket
supplier catalogs to locate each brand supplier's discrete part number.
Special Tools
Special tools are recommended by the vehicle manufacturer to perform their specific job. Use has
been kept to a minimum, but, where absolutely necessary, they are referred to in the text by the
part number of the tool manufacturer. These tools can be purchased, under the appropriate part
number, from your local dealer or regional distributor, or an equivalent tool can be purchased
locally from a tool supplier or parts outlet. Before substituting any tool for the one recommended,
read the SAFETY NOTICE at the top of this page.
PRECAUTIONS
Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read all of the following precautions, which deal
with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into
consideration when servicing a motor vehicle:
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when the engine is hot;
serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant.
Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing
the fuel system, always work in a well-ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors
to come in contact with a spark, open flame, or excessive heat (a hot drop light, for
example). Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a
container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers
to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. Refer to the additional fuel system precautions
later in this section.
Fuel injection systems often remain pressurized, even after the engine has been
turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel
lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
Brake fluid often contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes
and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in
your eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation
persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical
assistance.
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin
disorders, including cancer. You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to
used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing oil. Wash your hands
and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil.
Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
All new vehicles are now equipped with an air bag system, often referred to as a
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system.
The system must be disabled before performing service on or around system
components, steering column, instrument panel components, wiring and sensors. Failure
to follow safety and disabling procedures could result in accidental air bag deployment,
possible personal injury and unnecessary system repairs.
Always wear safety goggles when working with, or around, the air bag system. When
carrying a non-deployed air bag, be sure the bag and trim cover are pointed away from
your body. When placing a non-deployed air bag on a work surface, always face the bag
and trim cover upward, away from the surface. This will reduce the motion of the module
if it is accidentally deployed. Refer to the additional air bag system precautions later in
this section.
Clean, high quality brake fluid from a sealed container is essential to the safe and proper
operation of the brake system. You should always buy the correct type of brake fluid for
your vehicle. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, completely flush the system with
new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from the system
should be discarded. Also, do not allow any brake fluid to come in contact with a painted
surface; it will damage the paint.
Never operate the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil; doing so
WILL result in severe engine damage.
DO'S
Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit handy.
Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cutting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if
you have 20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vision, wear safety goggles
over your regular glasses.
Do shield your eyes whenever you work around the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric
acid. In case of contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water or a mixture of
water and baking soda, then seek immediate medical attention.
Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any undervehicle service. Jacks are for raising
vehicles; jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays raised until you want it to
come down. Whenever the vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the ground
and set the parking brake.
Do use adequate ventilation when working with any chemicals or hazardous materials.
Like carbon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from some brake lining wear can be
hazardous in sufficient quantities.
Do disconnect the negative battery cable when working on the electrical system. The
secondary ignition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGE. In some cases it can
even exceed 50,000 volts.
Do follow manufacturer's directions whenever working with potentially hazardous
materials. Most chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken internally.
Do properly maintain your tools. Loose hammerheads, mushroomed punches and
chisels, frayed or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively worn screwdrivers,
spread wrenches (open end), cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight
sockets can cause accidents.
Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the
bolt and often harming your knuckles in the process.
Do use the proper size and type of tool for the job at hand. Do select a wrench or
socket that fits the nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight, not cocked.
DON'TS
Don't run the engine in a garage or anywhere else without proper ventilation--EVER!
Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave the human body and you
can build up a deadly supply of it in your system by simply breathing in a little every day.
You may not realize you are slowly poisoning yourself. Always use power vents,
windows, fans and/or open the garage door.
Don't work around moving parts while wearing loose clothing. Short sleeves are much
safer than long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene soles protect your toes
and give a better grip on slippery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt buckles,
beads or body adornment of any kind is not safe working around a vehicle. Long hair
should be tied back under a hat or cap.
Don't use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump can drive a screwdriver deep into your
body. Even a rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around a spinning shaft or
fan.
Don't smoke when working around gasoline, cleaning solvent or other flammable
material.
Don't smoke when working around the battery. When the battery is being charged, it
gives off explosive hydrogen gas.
Don't use gasoline to wash your hands; there are excellent soaps available. Gasoline
contains dangerous additives which can enter the body through a cut or through your
pores. Gasoline also removes all the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands
will suck up oil and grease.
Don't service the air conditioning system unless you are equipped with the necessary
tools and training. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant is released to atmospheric
pressure it will absorb heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze anything it
touches. Although refrigerant is normally non-toxic, R-12 becomes a deadly poisonous
gas in the presence of an open flame. One good whiff of the vapors from burning
refrigerant can be fatal.
Don't use screwdrivers for anything other than driving screws! A screwdriver used as
an prying tool can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries. At the very least, you'll
ruin a good screwdriver.
Don't use a bumper or emergency jack (that little ratchet, scissors, or pantograph jack
supplied with the vehicle) for anything other than changing a flat! These jacks are only
intended for emergency use out on the road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance
tool. If you are serious about maintaining your vehicle yourself, invest in a hydraulic floor
jack of at least a 1 12 ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands.
ENGINE ELECTRICAL
Service Precautions
Before servicing any vehicle read all of the following precautions that deal with personal
safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration
when servicing a motor vehicle:
If the battery is removed for any reason, ensure that it is reconnected with the
correct polarity. Reversing the batterys polarity may result in damage to the oneway rectifiers.
Never operate the generator with the main circuit broken. Ensure that the battery,
generator, and regulator leads are not disconnected while the engine is running.
Never attempt to polarize a generator.
When charging a battery that is installed in the vehicle, disconnect the negative
battery cable.
When utilizing a booster battery as a starting aid always connect it in parallel;
negative to negative and positive to positive.
When arc (electric) welding is to be performed on any part of the vehicle
disconnect the negative battery cable and generator leads.
Never unplug the PCM while the engine is running or with the ignition in the ON
position. Severe and expensive damage may result.
Never attempt to charge or connect jumper cables to a frozen battery. The
battery may explode. Bring the battery indoors where it can thaw before charging
the battery.
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when the engine is
hot; serious burns and blindness can occur from the steam and hot coolant.
Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever
servicing the fuel system always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel
spray or vapors to come in contact with sparks, open flame, or excessive heat (a
hot drop light, for example). Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work
area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; and
always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion.
Refer to the additional fuel system precautions later in this section.
Fuel injection systems often remain pressurized, even after the engine has been
turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any
fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number
of skin disorders including cancer. You should make every effort to minimize your
exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing oil.
Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after
exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water or waterless hand cleaner should
be used.
Never operate the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil.
Doing so will result in severe engine damage.
NOTE: Disconnecting the negative battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the
functions of the on board computer system. The computer may undergo a relearning
process once the negative battery cable is reconnected.
the crankshaft sensor signal to the PCM and the PCM controls ignition operation either
directly or through a separate ignition module.
Waste spark ignition advantages
Another advantage of waste spark is longer coil life. To illustrate this point, consider a
six-cylinder engine with conventional ignition. At 3000 RPM, the coil must fire 9000 times
per minute. This is calculated by dividing the engine speed by 2, since the cam turns at
half crank speed, and then multiplying the distributor RPM by the total number of engine
cylinders.
In contrast, the coils on a six-cylinder engine with waste spark only work a third as hard.
This is because theres a coil for every two cylinders and each coil fires every crankshaft
revolution. This means that at 3000 RPM, the coils only fire 3000 times per minute. This
allows each coil to operate with less dwell (time that the coil is energized), resulting in
less heat buildup and longer life.
Coil Over Plug System
The coil over plug system was developed so that spark and spark timing could be better
controlled on an individual cylinder basis. Each cylinder has an ignition coil mounted
directly above the spark plug on the cylinder head cover. A short suppresser/connector
replaces the spark plug wire and links the coil to the plug. There are different methods
used for primary triggering. Some manufacturers use a combination coil/module, which
means each coil has its own control circuit that is activated by the PCM. Others use
remote mounted modules to trigger the coils.
Each individual coil is allowed to saturate while all other cylinders fire. For a V-8 engine,
this allows a period of seven firing events for coil saturation, compared to three events
for the same V-8 engine with a waste spark system. The coil over plug system also
benefits from a minimum amount of energy lost, due to the resistance of spark plug
wires.
Coil Near Plug System
The coil near plug system also features multiple ignition coils. An ignition coil/module is
mounted in proximity of each cylinder. There is a short length of spark plug wire between
the coil and the spark plug.
Each ignition coil/module has its own control circuit and is activated sequentially by the
PCM. All timing decisions are made by the PCM. This includes both ignition timing and
duration of the spark.
Camshaft Sensor
Many waste spark and coil over plug systems require a cylinder identification signal so
that the ignition coils can fire in the proper order during start up. If the computer does not
receive a cam sensor signal, some engines may not start. Some may take a few
attempts while the ignition module or PCM guesses at coil sequencing. The PCM will
attempt to synchronize and look for an increase in the mass airflow sensor (MAF) signal.
An increase in the MAF signal will indicate that the engine has started. If the PCM does
not detect an increase in the MAF signal, a re-sync will occur to the opposite cam
position. If the engine fails to start on the first attempt, try turning the key off and then try
again. If the engine starts normally on a subsequent attempt, look for a problem in the
camshaft sensor circuit. Some systems use the camshaft sensor only for control of
sequential fuel injection.
Related Symptoms
Faulty or fouled spark plugs along with a faulty ignition control system due to loose
connections, bad grounds, high resistance in the circuit, or opens in the circuit can cause
the following symptoms:
No start condition
Stalling after cold start
Stalling after hot start
Surging off idle
Extended crank time when engine is cold
Unstable idle
Running rough during off idle acceleration
Bucking
Hesitation
Stumble
Chuggle
Diesels or runs on
High idle
Poor fuel economy
Spark knock
Stalling on acceleration
Attach the clip to ground then crank the engine to check for
spark.
NOTE: The best way to perform this procedure is to use a spark tester (available at most
automotive parts stores). Three types of spark testers are commonly available:
The Neon Bulb type is connected to the spark plug wire and flashes with each
ignition pulse.
The Air Gap type must be adjusted to the individual spark plug gap specified for
the engine.
The last type of spark plug tester looks like a spark plug with a grounding clip on
the side, but there is no side electrode for the spark to jump.
NOTE: The last two types of testers allow the user to not only detect the presence of
spark, but also the intensity of the spark. Orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong.
1. Disconnect a spark plug wire at the spark plug end.
2. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and ground the tester to an appropriate
location on the engine or frame.
3. Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.
4. If spark exists at the tester, the ignition system is functioning properly.
5. If spark does not exist at the spark plug wire, perform a diagnostic test of the
ignition system using individual component diagnosis procedures.
Firing Orders
NOTE: To avoid confusion, remove and tag the spark plug wires one at a time, for
replacement.
If a distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been
removed and installed improperly and then rewired. The new wiring arrangement would
maintain the correct firing order, but could change the relative placement of the plug
towers in relation to the engine. For this reason it is imperative that you label all wires
before disconnecting any of them. Also, before removal, compare the current wiring with
the accompanying illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, make notes of the
current plug wire locations and orientation of the distributor cap.
4.3L Engine
1-6-5-4-3-2
4.8L, 5.3L & 6.6L Engine
1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3
Ignition Coil
Removal & Installation
4.8L, 5.3L & 6.6L Engines
To Remove:
Typical Ignition Coil Mounting
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
The ignition coil
CAUTION
The ignition coil bolts have self-tapping threads, care must be taken, NOT
to strip the threads when installing.
Charging System
General Information
The automobile charging system provides electrical power for operation of the vehicle's
ignition and starting systems as well as all electrical accessories. The battery serves as
an electrical surge, or storage tank, storing (in chemical form) the energy originally
produced by the engine driven alternator. The system also provides a means of
regulating alternator output to protect the battery from being overcharged, and to avoid
excessive voltage to the accessories.
The storage battery is a chemical device incorporating parallel lead plates in a tank
containing a sulfuric acid/water solution. Adjacent plates are slightly dissimilar, and the
chemical reaction of the two dissimilar plates produces electrical energy when the
battery is connected to a load such as the starter motor. The chemical reaction is
reversible, so that when the alternator is producing a voltage (electrical pressure) greater
than that produced by the battery, electricity is forced into the battery, and the battery is
returned to full charge.
The vehicle's alternator is driven by a belt, or belts from the engines crankshaft. In an
alternator, the field rotates while all the current produced passes only through the stator
winding. The brushes bear against continuous slip rings rather than a commutator. This
causes the current produced to periodically reverse the direction of its flow creating
alternating current (AC). Diodes (electrical one-way switches) block the flow of current
from traveling in the wrong direction. A series of diodes is wired together to permit the
alternating flow of the stator to be converted to a pulsating, but unidirectional flow at the
alternator output. The alternator's field is wired in series with the voltage regulator.
The voltage regulator consists of several circuits. Each circuit has a core, or magnetic
coil of wire, which operates a switch. Each switch is connected to ground through one or
more resistors. The coil of wire responds directly to system voltage. When the voltage
reaches the required level, the magnetic field created by the winding of wire closes the
switch and inserts a resistance into the alternator field circuit, thus reducing the output.
The contacts of the switch cycle open and closed many times each second to precisely
control voltage.
Alternator
Precautions
Several precautions must be observed when performing work on the alternator:
If the battery is removed for any reason, make sure that it is reconnected with the
correct polarity. Reversing the battery's polarity may result in damage to the oneway rectifiers.
Never operate the alternator with the main circuit broken. Make sure that the
battery, alternator, and regulator leads are not disconnected while the engine is
running.
Never attempt to polarize an alternator.
When charging a battery that is installed in the vehicle, disconnect the negative
battery cable.
When utilizing a booster battery as a starting aid, always connect it in parallel;
negative to negative, and positive to positive.
When arc (electric) welding is to be performed on any part of the vehicle,
disconnect the negative battery cable and alternator leads.
Never unplug the PCM while the engine is running or with the ignition in the ON
position. Severe and expensive damage may result.
Testing
Open Circuit Voltage Test
1. Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn on the headlights for 15 - 20 seconds to
remove any surface charge from the battery.
2. Use a DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm Meter) set to DC volts and probe across the
battery terminals.
3. Measure the battery voltage.
4. Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Place the transmission in P (Park), set the emergency brake and chock the rear
wheels to prevent vehicle movement.
2. Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.).
NOTE: It is a good practice to turn off all electrical accessories prior to shutting
off the engine.
3. Start the engine and increase engine speed to 1500 RPM.
4. Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500
RPM.
Voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts (no more than 2.5 volts)
5. If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the charging system is not
charging.
6. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Under and overcharging is typically caused by a defective alternator, or
its related parts (regulator). Note that the voltage regulator is internal to the
alternator assembly in many vehicles. Replacement of these items will often
repair the problem. However, faulty wiring and other problems can also cause the
charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this
book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have
alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test
is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
7. If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
1. With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams (or other
electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
2. Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 RPM.
3. Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
4. The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage
does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Under and overcharging are typically caused by a defective alternator, or its
related parts (regulator). The voltage regulator is internal to the alternator assembly in
many vehicles. Faulty wiring and other problems can also cause the charging system to
malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact
component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available
for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine
the condition of your alternator.
Removal & Installation
4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L Engine
To Remove:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Accessory drive belt
Engine sight shield, if necessary
Electrical connections from the generator
Mounting bolts
Generator
Alternator mounting-5.3L
To Install:
1. Install the generator.
2. Install or connect the following:
Generator mounting bolts.
A. Tighten the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
Electrical connections to the generator.
A. Tighten the B+ nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
Engine sight shield, if removed
Accessory drive belt
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
Tighten to bolt to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Alternator
Alternator mounting bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Electrical connections to the alternator and tighten the B+ nut
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Engine sight shield, if removed
Accessory drive belt
Connect the negative battery cable and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm)
2. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
8.1L Engine
To Remove:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Electrical connections from the generator
3. Remove the cable from the generator as follows:
Slide the boot down, to reveal the terminal stud.
Unfasten the cable nut from the stud, then remove the generator cable.
Accessory drive belt
Mounting bolts
Generator
Mounting bolts securing the generator to the brace and bracket
Generator
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Generator
Generator mounting bolts.
A. Tighten the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
Accessory drive belt
Connect the generator cable, secure with the nut and tighten to 80 inch
lbs. (9 Nm). Slide the boot back over the terminal stud.
Electrical connections to the generator
2. Connect the negative battery cable.
Battery
To Install:
1. Install the battery on the tray.
2. Install the battery insulator.
3. Install the battery hold down retainer and bolt.
Tighten to 80 in lb (9 Nm).
4. Connect the positive battery cable.
Tighten to 13 ft lb (17 Nm).
5. Install the fender to radiator support brace.
6. Connect the negative battery cable
Tighten to 13 ft lb (17 Nm).
Right Battery
To Remove:
CAUTION
Make sure to connect the correct battery cable to the correct battery terminal. Reversing
the battery's polarity may result in damage to electrical components.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
To Install:
Starting System
General Information
The starting system includes the battery, starter motor and solenoid, ignition switch,
circuit protection and wiring connecting all of the components. An inhibitor switch located
in the Transmission Range (TR) sensor is included in the starting system to prevent the
vehicle from being started unless the transmission is in PARK. A similar function is
performed by the clutch switch in manual transmission vehicles.
When the ignition key is turned to the START position, current flows and energizes the
starter's solenoid coil. The solenoid plunger and clutch shift lever are activated and the
clutch pinion engages the ring gear on the flywheel. The switch contacts close, and the
starter cranks the engine until the engine starts.
To prevent damage caused by excessive starter armature rotation when the engine
starts, the starter incorporates an over-running clutch in the pinion gear. This disengages
the starter motor from the engine when the engine begins to run on its own.
Starter
Testing
Starting System Voltage Drop Tests
NOTE: The battery must be in good condition and fully charged prior to performing this
test.
There are three area of the starter motor circuits that voltage drop test can be performed
on. These include:
Disable the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay.
Verify that the vehicle will not start.
Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery.
Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to the starter B+ terminal.
Turn the ignition key to the START position and note the voltage displayed on the
voltmeter.
Ideally, there should be no more than 0.1 volt drop for each connection
displayed on the voltmeter. No voltage should be consumed by the
vehicle wiring
A. If the battery cable connects directly to the starter motor there
should be no more than a 0.2 volt drop measured
B. If the vehicle uses a starter solenoid between the battery and the
starter motor terminal there should be no more than 0.4 volt
displayed on the voltmeter
Disable the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay.
Verify that the vehicle will not start.
Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the case of the starter motor.
Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the negative terminal of the battery.
Turn the ignition key to the START position and note the voltage displayed on the
voltmeter.
Ideally, there should be no more than 0.1 volt drop for each connection
displayed on the voltmeter. No voltage should be consumed by the
vehicle wiring
A. If the battery cable connects directly to the starter motor there
should be no more than a 0.2 volt drop measured
Starter Solenoid
1. Disable the fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay.
2. Verify that the vehicle will not start.
3. Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the case starter B+ terminal.
4. Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the lug (the starter M terminal) that
connects the starter solenoid to the starter motor.
5. Turn the ignition key to the START position and note the voltage displayed on the
voltmeter.
Ideally, there should be no more than 0.2 volt drop across the starter
solenoid displayed on the voltmeter.
In general, there should be no more than a 1.0 volt drop throughout the entire starter
motor feed and ground circuit. Any voltage drops measured in either the feed or ground
circuits after connections have been cleaned will require replacement of the affected
battery cable. Typically, any voltage drops measured in the solenoid are repaired by
replacing the starter motor.
NOTE: Many automotive parts stores have starter bench testers available for use by
customers. A starter bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of
your starter.
To Install:
1. Install the starter.
2. Connect the positive battery cable to the starter.
Tighten the nut to 12 inch lbs. (16 Nm).
3. Install the starter transmission close out cover. Install the mounting bolts to the
engine block.
Tighten the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
4. On 4WD vehicles, Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until
the bolt is fully seated Install the front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut.
Tighten the nut to 67 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
5. Connect the engine oil level sensor connection.
6. Install the starter to transmission close out cover bolt.
7. Install the starter solenoid shield.
8. Install the protective shields as needed.
9. Remove the safety stands.
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Install the engine oil dipstick tube.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
Tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
8.1L Engine
To Remove:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. On 4WD vehicles, remove the front axle mounting bracket nuts. Do not remove
the bolt.
4. On 4WD vehicles, reposition the front axle mounting bracket bolt until the bolt tip
is flush with the support bushing.
5. Remove the starter mounting bolts.
6. Slide the starter forward until the starter clears the transmission.
7. Remove the wiring from the starter.
8. If necessary, remove the starter heat shield bolts, nut, and shield.
To Install:
1. If necessary, install the starter heat shield, nut and bolts.
2. Connect the wiring to the starter.
3. Install the starter on the engine.
Tighten the bolts to 37 lb ft (50 Nm).
4. On 4WD vehicles, position the front axle mounting bracket bolt until the bolt is
fully seated.
5. On 4WD vehicles, install the front axle mounting bracket nuts.
Tighten the nuts to 70 lb ft (95 Nm).
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when the engine is
hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant.
Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever
servicing the fuel system, always work in a well-ventilated area. Do not allow fuel
spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark, open flame, or excessive heat (a
hot drop light, for example). Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work
area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also,
always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion.
Refer to the additional fuel system precautions later in this section.
Fuel injection systems often remain pressurized, even after the engine has been
turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any
fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
Brake fluid often contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with
the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get
brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes.
If eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY
seek medical assistance.
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number
of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize
your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when
changing oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as
possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand
cleaner should be used.
All new vehicles are now equipped with an air bag system, often referred to as a
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR)
system. The system must be disabled before performing service on or around
system components, steering column, instrument panel components, wiring and
sensors. Failure to follow safety and disabling procedures could result in
accidental air bag deployment, possible personal injury and unnecessary system
repairs.
Always wear safety goggles when working with, or around, the air bag system.
When carrying a non-deployed air bag, be sure the bag and trim cover are
pointed away from your body. When placing a non-deployed air bag on a work
surface, always face the bag and trim cover upward, away from the surface. This
will reduce the motion of the module if it is accidentally deployed. Refer to the
additional air bag system precautions later in this section.
Clean, high quality brake fluid from a sealed container is essential to the safe and
proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the correct type of
brake fluid for your vehicle. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, completely
flush the system with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that
is removed from the system should be discarded. Also, do not allow any brake
fluid to come in contact with a painted surface; it will damage the paint.
Never operate the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil; doing
so WILL result in severe engine damage.
Timing belt maintenance is extremely important! Many models utilize an
interference-type, non-freewheeling engine. If the timing belt breaks, the valves in
the cylinder head may strike the pistons, causing potentially serious (also timeconsuming and expensive) engine damage. Refer to the maintenance interval
charts in the front of this manual for the recommended replacement interval for
the timing belt, and to the timing belt section for belt replacement and inspection.
Disconnecting the negative battery cable on some vehicles may interfere with the
functions of the on-board computer system(s) and may require the computer to
undergo a relearning process once the negative battery cable is reconnected.
When servicing drum brakes, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time,
leaving the remaining side intact for reference.
Only an MVAC-trained, EPA-certified automotive technician should service the
air conditioning system or its components.
Engine
General Information
In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which
call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust
system'' or "remove the radiator.'' In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can
be found elsewhere in this manual.
It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be
disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine combinations have
been manufactured. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible
approaches to any repair procedure.
Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic
points:
6.6L Engine
To Remove:
NOTE: In order to remove the engine, the vehicle must be raised and the front tires
removed. You will have to safely support the vehicle by its frame for tire removal.
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Discharge and recover the air conditioning system.
4. Drain the engine oil.
Place hood to service position
5. Raise the hood to the servicing position and move the hood hinge bolt to hold the
hood in the servicing position.
6. Disconnect the battery cables.
7. Remove the upper intake manifold sight shield as follows:
Remove the retaining bolt in the front of the shield
Lift up on the front of the shield, then left the shield off the rear bracket
8. Remove or disconnect the following:
NOTE: After you remove the duct, cover the turbocharger openings and ducts
with tape to prevent foreign objects from entering.
Air cleaner outlet duct from the air cleaner and turbocharger
Mass Air Flow (MAF) switch connector
A/C pressure cycling switch connector
Surge tank switch
Engine wire harness clip from the accumulator
Engine wire harness clips from the wheelhouse inner panel and engine
bracket
Air cleaner assembly and bracket
Surge tank
9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
10. Remove or disconnect the following:
Front tires and wheels
Both front fender wheelhouse inner panels
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Remove or disconnect the following:
Charged air cooler pipes and hoses from the engine and charged air
cooler
Radiator inlet hose form the radiator and engine
Upper and lower fan shrouds
Radiator outlet hose from the radiator
Outlet heater hose from the outlet radiator hose
Hose clips from the frame
Radiator outlet hose from the engine
Bolt securing the outlet heater hose pipe to the alternator mounting
bracket
Nut securing the outlet heater hose pipe to the fuel filter mounting bracket
Secure the heater hose aside
Upper radiator support
Radiator (See: Radiator)
Charged air cooler
A/C condenser
Alternator harness connector
A/C refrigerant switch connector
Dual alternator harness connector, if equipped
A/C compressor clutch connector
Harness clip from the A/C compressor bracket
Battery cable from the alternator and auxiliary alternator, if equipped
Battery cable harness clips from the bracket
Bolt securing the battery cable junction block from the power steering
pump
Move and secure the battery cables aside
Both fuel injection control module harness connectors, by flipping the
latch up
Engine wire harness from the retainer
Fuel lines at the engine
Remove the nut and the fuel line bracket from the upper valve rocker arm
cover stud
Fuel lines aside
Power supply cable from the glow plug relay
Drive belt
Suction hose from the accumulator
A/C compressor bolts, then move the compressor, with the hoses
attached, to the right side of the engine compartment
Wiring harness to the left side of the engine and tie aside
Bolts holding the power steering pump front bracket to the pump and A/C
compressor mounting bracket
A/C compressor and power steering pump bracket. Once the battery
cables are removed from the engine, the power steering pump can be
removed further out of the way
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) oil separator from the bracket
Bolts securing the PCV separator bracket and fuel bleed valve
Right idler pulley (ribbed)
Alternator mounting bracket and secure aside
NOTE: You do not have to remove the alternator or the belt tensioner.
Inlet heater hose from the heater core inlet, using Quick ConnectDisconnect tool No. J 43181 or other suitable equivalent tool
Bolt and ground wires from the rear of the left cylinder head
13. Raise the vehicle.
14. Remove or disconnect the following:
Oil pan skid plate
Engine protection shield, if equipped
Bolt for the negative battery cable and engine wiring harness ground wire
from the left side of the engine
Bolts holding the battery cable channel retainer to the lower crankcase
Engine coolant heater cord
Starter (See: Starter)
Nut securing the battery cable bracket to the right side of the lower
crankcase
Bolt holding the auxiliary negative battery cable and the engine wiring
harness ground wires to the right side of the engine
Position the battery cables aside
Exhaust pipe-to-exhaust outlet clamp
Lower oil pan, if 4WD (See: Lower Oil Pan)
15. If equipped with an automatic transmission, matchmark the installed position of
the flywheel and torque converter.
Torque converter bolts through the starter opening
Transmission oil line clip nut if equipped with A/T
Nuts securing the transmission fluid fill tube bracket, if equipped with A/T
Transmission-to-engine stud and bolts. Note the location of the studs and
any brackets attached to the studs
Lower the vehicle to work through the wheel opening
Engine mount-to-frame bracket bolts
16. Lower the vehicle.
17. Install Engine Lifting Bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting
device to the rear of the left cylinder head with a suitable bolt.
18. Install Engine Lifting Bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting
device to the front of the right cylinder head with a suitable bolt.
NOTE: Install a suitable lifting device. The engine will have to be angled to
remove it. Use a load positioning sling to help in angling the engine.
19. Raise the vehicle off the engine mounts.
20. Remove the left and right engine mount frame brackets.
21. Remove the engine assembly from the vehicle.
22. Secure the engine on an engine stand by removing the following components:
Flywheel/flexplate
Rear main seal
Exhaust outlet
Oil pan
Flywheel housing
To Install:
1. Install Engine Lifting Bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting
device to the rear of the left cylinder head with a suitable bolt.
Install the engine lifting bracket to the rear of the left cylinder head
2. Install Engine Lifting Bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting
device to the front of the right cylinder head with a suitable bolt.
NOTE: Install a suitable lifting device. The engine will have to be angled to install
it. Use a load positioning sling to help in angling the engine.
3. Install or connect the following:
Engine in the vehicle
2 transmission-to-engine bolts, loosely
Left and right side engine mount frame brackets and tighten the bracket
bolts
A. Torque to: 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm)
Engine mount-to-frame bracket bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 50 ft. lbs. (65 Nm)
4. Remove the engine lifting bracket tool No. J 36857 or other suitable engine lifting
device from the cylinder heads.
5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
6. Install or connect the following:
Transmission-to-engine bolts/studs and tighten the bolts/studs
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) }
Transmission-to-engine mounting-6.6L engine with A/
Torque converter bolts, if equipped with an A/T and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
Nuts retaining the transmission fluid fill tube bracket if equipped with an
automatic transmission and tighten the nuts
A. Torque to: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
Lower oil pan if 4WD
Nut retaining the transmission oil cooler line clip if equipped with an
automatic transmission and tighten the nut
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Exhaust pipe to the exhaust outlet
Exhaust manifold pipe to the exhaust outlet clamp and tighten the clamp
A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
7. Lower the vehicle to work through the front fender wheelhouse openings.
8. Install or connect the following:
Bolt retaining the battery negative cable and the engine wiring harness
ground wire to the left side of the engine and tighten the bolt
Surge tank
Air cleaner
Flywheel/Flexplate
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1. Install the engine flywheel.
Tighten the bolts is a star pattern to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
Heat the new ring gear evenly with a torch to cause the ring gear to expand.
Install the ring gear on the flywheel with the bevel facing the rear of the flywheel.
Heat and tap the ring gear as needed until installed squarely on the flywheel.
Install the flywheel on the engine.
1. NOTE: The valve rocker arm cover uses sealer. Pry only at the location shown in
order to avoid damage to the sealing surfaces.
2. Using a suitable tool at the prying location, loosen the upper valve rocker arm
cover.
3. Remove the upper valve rocker arm cover.
4. If required, clean and inspect the upper valve rocker arm cover.
To Install:
NOTE: Apply a 1/8 inch (2 - 3 mm) wide, by 1/16 inch (0.5 - 1.5 mm) high bead of
sealant to the upper valve rocker arm cover. Apply a bead of sealant to the area under
the injector wire harness on the lower valve rocker arm cover.
1. Install or connect the following:
Upper valve rocker arm cover
Valve cover bolt tightening sequence
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
1.
Upper valve rocker arm cover bolts and note the location of any wire
harness clips
NOTE: The valve rocker arm cover uses sealer. Pry only at the location shown in
order to avoid damage to the sealing surfaces.
2. Using a suitable tool at the prying location, loosen the upper valve rocker arm
cover.
3. Remove the upper valve rocker arm cover.
4. If required, clean and inspect the upper valve rocker arm cover.
To Install:
NOTE: Apply a 1/8 inch (2 - 3 mm) wide, by 1/16 inch (0.5 - 1.5 mm) high bead of
sealant to the upper valve rocker arm cover. Apply a bead of sealant to the area under
the injector wire harness on the lower valve rocker arm cover.
1. Install or connect the following:
Upper valve rocker arm cover
Valve cover bolt tightening sequence
2.
3.
4.
5.
Upper valve rocker arm cover bolts by installing bolts 1 and 2 first, they
are used to position the cover and tighten the bolts in the sequence
shown as follows:
A. Tighten the bolts a first pass,
B. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
C. Tighten the bolts a final pass, Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Fuel injector feed lines and tighten the lines
A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Sleeve nut plates and bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)
PCV hoses to the upper valve rocker arm cover
Fuel filter mounting bolts
Fuel injection control module
Heater outlet hose and tighten the heater hose bracket bolt and nut
A. Torque the nut to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Torque the bolt to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Tape from the turbocharger openings
Charged air cooler outlet duct to the intake
Align the mark on the duct to the mark on the intake .
Position the clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp.
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Install or connect the following:
Outlet duct to the turbocharger
Align the outlet duct alignment indicator to the turbocharger alignment indicator.
NOTE: The outlet duct must be fully seated against the MAT/IAT sensor with the
edge of the seal in the vertical position.
6. Install or connect the following:
Outlet duct to the MAF/IAT sensor and tighten the outlet duct clamps at
the turbocharger and the MAF/IAT sensor
A. Torque the clamps to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Upper intake manifold cover
Upper intake manifold cover to the outlet duct and tighten the outlet duct
clamp at the upper intake manifold cover
A. Torque the clamp to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
7. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
Lower Left Side
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Upper left valve rocker arm cover (See: Left Upper Valve Cover)
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Lower valve rocker arm cover gasket
Lower valve rocker arm cover
Lower valve cover bolt tightening sequence
Lower valve rocker arm cover bolts starting with bolts 1 and 2, they are
used to position the cover and tighten the bolts in the sequence shown
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Injector harnesses
Injector harness bracket bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
The encapsulated injector wire terminal nuts on each injector and tighten
the nuts
A. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
Fuel injector electrical connectors
Upper left valve rocker arm cover (See: Left Upper Valve Cover)
2. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
Lower Right Side
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Upper right valve rocker arm cover
5. If required, clean and inspect the lower valve rocker arm cover.
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Lower valve rocker arm cover gasket
Lower valve rocker arm cover
Lower valve rocker arm cover bolts starting with bolts 1 and 2, they are
used to position the cover and tighten the bolts in the sequence shown
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Injector harnesses
Injector harness bracket bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Tighten the encapsulated injector wire terminal nuts on each injector
A. Torque to: 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
Fuel injector electrical connectors
Right upper valve rocker arm cover (See: Right Upper Valve Cover)
2. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Thermostat
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Drain the engine coolant.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Water outlet
6.6L Thermostat housing removal
To Install:
6.6L Thermostats and seals
Cylinder Head
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
Both Sides
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure (See: Fuel Pressure Relieving).
3. Drain the coolant system.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cables
Left or right front splash shield from the fender well, as applicable
Turbocharger (See: Turbocharger)
Turbocharger charged air cooler inlet duct
Thermostat housing crossover
Left or right intake manifold, as necessary (See: Intake Manifold)
Upper left or right valve cover (See: Rocker Arm/Valve Cover - Upper)
Fuel rail assembly
Left or right exhaust manifold (See: Exhaust Manifold)
Bolt and ground straps from the rear of the cylinder head
Lower left or right valve cover (See: Rocker Arm/Valve Cover - Lower)
Rocker arm shaft assembly (See: Rocker Arm/Shafts)
Glow plugs (See: Glow Plugs)
Fuel injector return pipe eye bolts and washers
Fuel injector return pipe assembly
Fuel injector bracket bolts
Fuel injectors with the brackets, using a suitable removal tool
Injector bracket pins
Cylinder head bolts, in the proper sequence
To Install:
1. Clean the mating surfaces of the heads and block thoroughly.
2. Position a new left or right side head gasket on the block and notice that the left
and right side gaskets are not interchangeable.
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts on these vehicles are precoated with an
application of a molybdenum disulfide for thread lubrication. Do not remove the
coating or add any additional lubrication.
3. Install or connect the following:
Cylinder head and bolts and tighten in sequence as follows:
A. Step 1: M12 bolts, Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
B. Step 2: M12 bolts, Torque to: 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
C. Step 3: Tighten the M12 bolts, Torque to: an additional 150
degrees using a torque angle meter
D. Step 4: M8 bolts, Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
1.
New O-ring onto the fuel injectors after coating with clean engine oil
New copper washer into the fuel injector bore in the cylinder head
Fuel injector bracket pin
NOTE: If you are reusing the old injectors, clean the carbon from the tips,
but do not use a wire brush.
NOTE: The valve rocker arm bolts retain the rocker arms on the shaft. Do not
remove the bolts from the rocker arm shaft brackets.
5. Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts in the proper sequence and leave the bolts in
the rocker arm shaft brackets.
6. Remove or disconnect the following:
Rocker arm shaft
1.
9. If required, clean and inspect the valve rocker arm and shaft.
To Install:
Rocker arm shaft assembly
2.
3.
4.
5.
Lubricate the rocker arm shaft (G) and the inside of the rocker arms with
clean engine oil
Install the rocker arm bracket (L) on one end of the rocker arm shaft with
bolt
Install the intake rocker arm (I), spring (J), exhaust rocker arm (K), and
bracket with bolt. Continue in the same sequence to the last bracket
Push the bracket to compress the springs and then install the bolt
Lubricate the top of the valves, the valve bridge stem, the valve lifter bridge, and
the valve spring caps with clean engine oil.
Install or connect the following:
Valve spring caps
Valve lifter bridges
Lubricate the valve lifter end of the pushrod with clean engine oil.
Install or connect the following:
Pushrods
NOTE: To ensure the pushrod is properly installed, gently pull up on the pushrod.
You should feel resistance from the pushrod trying to lift the valve lifter.
Valve locations
8. Adjust the valve lash to 0.0112 inch (0.3 mm) according to Valve Clearance
Adjustment Specifications chart to determine which valves can be adjusted when
the engine is at TDC and tighten the lock nut.
Torque to: 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)
9. Rotate the crankshaft one revolution in order to bring the number 1 cylinder to
TDC of the exhaust stroke.
10. Loosen the valve adjusting screws.
11. Insert a feeler gage between the tip of the rocker arm and the valve lifter bridge.
12. Adjust the valve clearance to 0.0112 inch (0.3 mm) according to Valve Clearance
Adjustment Specifications to determine which valves can be adjusted when the
engine is at TDC and tighten lock nut.
Torque to: 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)
13. Install or connect the following:
Upper valve rocker arm covers (See: Upper Rocker Arm Cover, for more
information)
Fan clutch (See: Fan, for more information)
14. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
Intake Manifold
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
To Remove:
NOTE: This procedure is for replacement of the left or right intake manifold.
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Batteries cables
Turbocharger (See: Turbocharger)
Fuel junction block
Left or right fuel rail
Intake manifold tube
9 bolts and 2 nuts from the intake manifold
NOTE: A bolt is located in the manifold opening.
NOTE: The intake manifold uses sealer. If necessary, pry at the area by
the common rail bolt holes and be careful to avoid damaging the sealing
surfaces.
Intake manifold from the head and cover the head openings to prevent
debris from entering
4. Clean all gaskets surface.
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
A 1/8 in. (2-3mm) wide to 1/16 in (0.5-1.5mm) high bead of sealant to the
sealing surface of the intake manifold
NOTE: The left and right side manifolds are NOT interchangeable.
Intake manifold
Bolts and nuts and tighten the bolts and nuts in sequence
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Exhaust Manifold
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
Left Side
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Bolts securing the left exhaust pipe heat shield. Move the heat shield
aside for access to the exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts
Left exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts
Left front wheel
Left front fender splash shield
Charge air cooler duct
Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and shield
2 nuts and 6 bolts with the plain washer and bell view washer from the left
manifold
Exhaust manifold by removing it from the rear, then the front studs and
sliding it out the bottom, past the oil filter
Exhaust manifold gasket and discard
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Exhaust manifold with gasket
Exhaust manifold bolts/nuts and using the sequence shown, tighten the
exhaust manifold bolts
6.6L exhaust manifold bolt tightening sequence
A. Tighten the bolts/nut a first pass, Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
B. Tighten the bolts/nuts a final pass, Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
Wheel and tire assembly and tighten the lug nuts in sequence
A. Torque to: 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)
Right Side
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Right front wheel
Right front fender splash shield
Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and shield
Right exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts
2 nuts and 6 bolts with the plain washer and bell view washer from the left
manifold
Exhaust manifold by removing it from the rear, then the front studs and
sliding it out the bottom, past the oil filter
Bolt for the oil level dipstick tube, to remove the gasket
Exhaust manifold gasket and discard
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Exhaust manifold with new gasket and tighten the exhaust manifold nuts
and bolts in sequence as follows:
A. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts on the first pass,
Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
B. Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts on the second pass,
Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
Oil level dipstick tube and tighten the oil level dipstick tube
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Right exhaust pipe to manifold and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (59 Nm)
Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and shield and tighten the heat shield
bolts
A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Right front fender splash shield
1.
Wheel and tire assembly and tighten the lug nuts in sequence
A. Torque to: 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)
2. Lower the vehicle.
3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Turbocharger
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cables.
3. Open the hood and move the hinge bolts to the service position.
4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
5. Drain the coolant.
6. Remove or disconnect the following:
Exhaust pipe-to-exhaust outlet clamp and move the clamp onto the
exhaust pipe
Transmission fluid fill tube-to-bell housing nuts if equipped with an A/T
and position the tube to the right side of the vehicle; it does not need to be
removed from the transmission
3 nuts and left exhaust heat shield from the front of the lower dash panel
Left exhaust pipe heat shield bolts
7. Position the left exhaust pipe heat shield to access the left exhaust pipe-tomanifold bolts but do not remove the heat shield from the vehicle at this time.
NOTE: Do not bend the exhaust pipe at the expansion area.
Oil supply hose, using new washers and tighten the eye bolt
A. Torque to: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
NOTE: Position the left exhaust pipe. The pipe flanges are different. Ensure the
proper pipe flange is towards the turbocharger. Align the turbocharger gaskets at
the turbocharger with the tab on the gasket facing inward. To aid in installing the
pipe to the turbocharger temporarily install one of the pipe to manifold bolts.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Left exhaust pipe to the turbocharger with a new gasket and tighten the
bolts
A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Position the left exhaust pipe heat shield, but do not install the bolts.
Install or connect the following:
Right exhaust pipe with a new gasket to the turbocharger
Right exhaust pipe to turbocharger bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Exhaust outlet with a new gasket to the turbocharger
Exhaust outlet bolts and nuts and tighten the bolts/nuts
A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Exhaust outlet heat shield
Upper 2 exhaust outlet heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Turbocharger heat shield
Turbocharger heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
PCV hose to the upper left valve rocker arm cover
Turbocharger outlet coolant hose to the turbocharger
Turbocharger inlet coolant hose to the turbocharger coolant bypass valve
Inlet air heater relay
Wire terminal and the nut to intake air heater and tighten the nut
A. Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)
A/C compressor
A/C compressor bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Drive belt
A/C cut out switch electrical connector
A/C clutch electrical connector
Remove the tape from the turbocharger openings if necessary.
Install or connect the following:
Charged air cooler snip duct and align the mark on the duct with the mark
on the turbocharger
Clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Charged air cooler outlet duct on the intake and align the mark on the
duct with the mark on the intake
Clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Outlet duct to turbocharger
Align the outlet duct alignment indicator to the turbocharger alignment indicator.
NOTE: The outlet duct must be fully seated against the MAT/IAT sensor with the
edge of the seal in the vertical position.
Lower exhaust outlet heat shield bolt and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Right exhaust pipe with a new gasket to exhaust manifold and align the
tab on the exhaust pipe gasket facing outward
Right exhaust pipe bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Left exhaust pipe with a NEW gasket to exhaust manifold and align the
tab on the exhaust pipe gasket facing outward
Left exhaust pipe bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm)
Left exhaust pipe heat shield
Left exhaust pipe heat shield bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Exhaust heat shield to left font of the dash panel
Shield nuts and tighten the nuts
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Fill tube if equipped
Fill tube nuts and tighten the nuts
A. Torque to: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
Exhaust pipe clamp
NOTE: To assist in positioning the clamp on the flanges use a suitable
screw jack to hold the exhaust pipe in position.
Radiator
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
WARNING
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the
engine is on or is still hot. The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under
pressure if radiator cap or surge tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are
still hot.
CAUTION
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or has repeatedly needed coolant or water
added to the system, then the system should be completely flushed.
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Inlet hose from the radiator
Radiator outlet hose from the radiator
Lower fan shroud
Vent inlet hose from the radiator
Surge tank hose
Engine oil cooler lines from the radiator
Transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator
Remove the radiator
Radiator bolts
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Radiator to the vehicle
Radiator bolts and tighten the bolts,
A. Torque to: 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm)
Engine oil cooler lines to the radiator
Transmission oil cooler lines to the radiator
Radiator vent inlet hose to the radiator
Lower fan shroud
Outlet hose to the radiator
Inlet hose to the radiator
2. Fill the cooling system.
3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
3. Remove the surge tank overflow hose from the surge tank.
4. Remove the low coolant level switch electrical connector.
5. Reposition the surge tank inlet hose clamp.
6. Remove the surge tank inlet (upper) hose from the surge tank.
7. Reposition the surge tank outlet hose clamp.
8. Remove the surge tank inlet (lower) hose from the surge tank.
9. Remove the bolt and nut from the surge tank.
10. Remove the surge tank.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
6. Remove the fan clutch bolts from the rear of the fan blade, if necessary.
7. Separate the fan clutch from the fan blade.
To Install:
CAUTION
Do not use or attempt to repair a damaged cooling fan assembly. Replace damaged fans
with new assemblies. An unbalanced cooling fan could fly apart causing personal Injury
and property damage.
1. Install or connect the following:
Fan clutch onto the fan blade
Fan clutch bolts
Fan clutch bolts and tighten the bolts;
A. Torque to: 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)
Fan blade and clutch
The J 41240 or other suitable tool to the fan clutch
A. Tighten the fan clutch nut; Torque to: 41 ft. lbs. (56 Nm)
Upper fan shroud
2. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
Water Pump
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Remove the left front fender wheelhouse inner panel.
3. Drain the coolant.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
Thermostat housing crossover
Fan clutch
Crankshaft damper (See: Crankshaft Damper)
6.6L Oil cooler to water pump removal
Water pump bolts, noting their locations as they are different lengths
Water pump and gasket
To Install:
1. Lubricate the water pump O-ring with engine oil.
2. Install or connect the following:
Water pump
Water pump bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Water pump-to-water pump outlet gasket
Engine wiring harness retainer on the water pump outlet pipe inner stud
Oil cooler-to-water pump nuts and tighten the nuts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Thermostat housing crossover
Crankshaft damper
Fan clutch
3. Fill the cooling system and install the left front fender wheelhouse inner panel.
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
2. Remove the bolt from the right side idler pulley (ribbed pulley).
3. Remove the idler pulley.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Remove the bolt from the center idler pulley (smooth pulley).
Remove the idler pulley.
Remove the bolt from the left side idler pulley (if equipped with dual generators).
Remove the left side idler pulley (if equipped with dual generators).
To Install:
1. Install the right side idler pulley and bolt.
Torque to; 37 ft-lbs (50 Nm)
2. Install the center idler pulley and bolt.
Torque to; 37 ft-lbs (50 Nm)
3. Install the left side idler pulley and bolt (if equipped with dual generators).
Torque to; 37 ft-lbs (50 Nm)
4. Install the drive belt.
Oil Pan
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
Lower Oil Pan
To Remove:
1. Drain the engine oil.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Oil pan skid plate if equipped
Crossbar
Oil level sensor connector
Lower oil pan bolts and nuts
Lower oil pan from the lower crankcase
Lower oil pan
Oil level sensor removal
Oil level sensor (A), bolt (B) and clip (C) if necessary
To Install:
1. Clean all sealing surfaces.
2. Apply a 1/8 inch (2mm) bead of sealant to the oil pan sealing surface.
3. Install or connect the following:
Oil pan sensor, bolt and clip if necessary and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Oil pan and tighten the bolts and nuts
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Oil level sensor connector
Crossbar
Crossbar bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 74 lb-ft. (100 Nm)
Oil pan skid plate if equipped
Oil pan skid plate bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 lb-ft. (20 Nm)
4. Refill engine with oil.
5. Test drive to confirm the repairs.
Upper Oil Pan
To Remove:
1. Drain the engine oil.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Front differential carrier (4WD vehicles)(See: Axle Housing Front, for
detailed information)
Relay rod from the pitman arm and idler arm if equipped (See: Pitman
Arm, for detailed information)
Transmission (See: Manual Transmission or Automatic Transmission, for
detailed information)
Lower oil pan (See: Oil Pan Lower, for detailed information)
Flywheel/Flexplate (See: Flywheel/Flexplate, for detailed information)
Positive and negative battery cable bracket bolts and bracket from the
front of the upper oil pan
Positive and negative battery cable bracket nut and bracket from the right
side of the upper oil pan
2 engine flywheel housing to upper oil pan bolts (refer to denoted black
triangles on accompanying figure)
Remove only the flywheel housing-to-upper oil pan bolts designated with a black
triangle-6.6L engine
1.
NOTE: The oil dipstick tube needs to be removed while lowering the upper oil pan.
To Install:
1. Clean all sealing surfaces.
2. Apply a 1/8 in. (2mm) bead of sealant to the oil pan and flywheel sealing
surfaces.
2 engine flywheel housing to upper oil pan bolts (refer to denoted black
triangles on accompanying figure) and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Positive and negative battery cable bracket nut and bracket to the right
side of the upper oil pan
Positive and negative battery cable bracket bolts and bracket from the
front of the upper oil pan
Flywheel/Flexplate (See: Flywheel/Flexplate)
Oil Pump
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
To Remove:
1. Drain the engine oil.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Engine flywheel housing (2WD vehicles)
Engine front cover
Upper oil pan
Oil pump pipe and screen and gasket
3. Block the crankshaft from turning with a wooden dowel.
Oil pump driven gear nut
Oil pump driven gear
NOTE: The crankshaft reluctor and oil pump drive gear are timed together
at the factory. Do not remove the reluctor from the oil pump drive gear or
damage the reluctor teeth.
Oil pump drive gear and crankshaft reluctor assembly using a brass drift
and tapping as close to the center of the reluctor assembly
3 hex head and 1 Allen head bolt
Oil pump
Oil pump O-ring seal
Oil pump gear cover bolts and cover
4. Measure the clearance between the gear teeth and oil pump housing using a
feeler gauge.
5. The production clearance is 0.0049-0.0087 in. (0.125-0.221mm) and the service
limit is 0.0087 in. (0.221mm).
6. Replace the pump if the clearance exceeds the service limit.
7. Use a feeler gauge and a straightedge to measure the clearance between the
side of the gear and the cover.
8. The production clearance is 0.0025-0.0043 in. (0.064-0.109mm) and the service
limit is 0.0043 in. (0.109mm).
9. Replace the pump if the clearance exceeds the service limit.
10. Calculate the driven gear shaft-to-bushing clearance:
Measure the driven gear shaft outside diameter
The production specification is 0.7853-0.7858 in. (19.947-19.960mm) and
the service limit is 0.7819 in. (19.86mm)
Measure the driven gear bushing inside diameter
The production value is 0.7874 in. (20mm)
Calculate the driven gear shaft-to-bushing clearance
The service limit is 0.0055 in. (0.14mm)
Replace the pump if the clearance exceeds the service limit
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Oil pump gear cover and bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
New O-ring seal for the oil pump
Oil pump and bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
2. Check the oil pump drive gear for wear and replace the gear pin if necessary.
3. Install or connect the following:
Oil pump drive gear and reluctor
Oil pump driven gear and nut
Block the crankshaft from moving and then tighten
A. Torque to: 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm)
Oil pump pipe and screen gasket to the oil pump (4WD vehicle)
Oil pump pipe and screen (4WD vehicle)
Oil pump pipe and screen bolts and nuts (4WD vehicle) and tighten the
bolts and nuts
A. Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Engine front cover
Engine flywheel housing (2WD vehicle)
Upper oil pan
4. Refill the crankcase with oil.
5. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
To Install:
1. Clean and inspect all sealing surfaces.
2. Install or connect the following:
Oil pressure relief valve with a new O-ring and tighten the valve
A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
3. Apply a 1/8 in. (2-3mm) wide to 1/16 in. (0.5-1.5mm) high bead of sealant to the
front cover sealing surfaces to the engine block and oil pan.
4. Install or connect the following:
New front cover O-ring after lubricating it with engine oil
Front cover and bolts and tighten the front cover bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Upper oil pan-to-front cover bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Turbocharger coolant outlet pipe bracket and bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
Camshaft sensor and bolt and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Camshaft sensor connector
NOTE: The CKP sensor spacers are machined with different timing
positions. If you have to replace a spacer, make sure it has the same part
number.
CKP sensor spacer and spacer bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
CKP sensor and bolt and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Water pump (See: Water Pump)
Crankshaft front oil seal
Crankshaft damper (See: Crankshaft Damper)
Thermostat housing crossover
Oil fill tube
Drive belt
Upper fan shroud
Right front fender splash shield and wheel
Negative battery cables
5. Refill the cooling system with the proper type and quantity of antifreeze.
6. Inspect the engine for leaks.
7. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
Engine front cover (See: Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover and Seal)
Oil pump driven gear nut and gear
CAUTION
The crankshaft reluctor and oil pump drive gear are timed together at the
factory. Do not remove the reluctor from the oil pump drive gear.
Oil pump drive gear and crankshaft reluctor assembly but take care not to
remove the reluctor bolts or damage the reluctor teeth
5. Using the Magnetic Base J 26900-13 and Dial Indicator J 26900-12 or other
suitable dial indicator, measure the camshaft end-play.
NOTE: The production value is 0.002-0.0045 in. (0.050-0.114mm) and the
service limit is 0.008 in. (0.20mm). Replace the cam gear or thrust plate if the
measured value exceeds the service limit.
Use the dial indicator (1) and magnetic base (2) to measure
the camshaft end-play
Loosen the camshaft gear bolt and leave the bolt finger-tight
Camshaft thrust plate bolts through the holes in the camshaft gear
Camshaft with the gear attached
Cam gear bolt and gear
Thrust plate
6. Clean and inspect the camshaft and bearings.
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Camshaft thrust plate
Camshaft driven gear
Driven gear bolt (finger-tight)
Camshaft and gear assembly into the cylinder block and align the gear to
the crankshaft gear
Camshaft and crankshaft gear alignment-6.6L engine
Apply threadlock to the thrust plate bolts and tighten the thrust plate bolts
A. Torque to: 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm)
Camshaft reluctor to the cam gear
Reluctor bolts and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Flywheel holding tool in the starter opening If removed
Camshaft gear bolt and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 173 ft. lbs. (234 Nm)
2. Using the Magnetic Base J 26900-13 and Dial Indicator J 26900-12 or other
suitable dial indicator, measure the camshaft end-play.
NOTE: The production value is 0.002-0.0045 in. (0.050-0.114mm) and the
service limit is 0.008 in. (0.20mm). Replace the cam gear or thrust plate if the
measured value exceeds the service limit.
Oil pump drive gear and reluctor to the crankshaft taking care not to
damage the teeth of the reluctor
Oil pump driven gear and nut and tighten the nut
A. Torque to: 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm)
Engine front cover (See: Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover and Seal)
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
A/C condenser
Charged air cooler
Apply clean engine oil to the roller and outside of the lifters.
Install or connect the following:
Valve lifters
Valve lifter guides
Valve lifter guide hold-down brackets. Make sure that both tabs of the
bracket are in the holes of the valve lifter guides
Valve lifter guide hold-down bracket bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm)
Both cylinder heads (See: Cylinder Head)
Fill the cooling system.
Start the engine then idle until normal operating temperature is attained.
Recheck coolant level and top off as needed.
Charge the A/C system with the proper refrigerant.
Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
Inspection
Camshaft Lobe Lift
Camshaft lobe lift is measured in two places
Camshaft lobe lift is the amount (measured in inches or millimeters) that the camshaft is
capable of moving the valve train components in order to open the valves. The lobe lift is
a measure of how much taller the "egg shaped'' portion of the camshaft lobe is above
the base or circular portion of the shaft lobe. Lift is directly proportional to how far the
valves can open. A worn camshaft (with poor lobe lift) cannot fully open the valves. The
lobe lift therefore can be directly responsible for proper or poor engine performance.
Lobe lift can be measured in 2 ways, depending on what tools are available and whether
or not the camshaft has been removed from the engine. A dial gauge can be used to
measure the lift with the camshaft installed, while a micrometer is normally only used
once the shaft has been removed from the engine.
Lobe lift may be checked with the camshaft installed. In all cases, a dial gauge is
positioned somewhere on the valve train (pushrod, lifter, or camshaft itself) and the
camshaft is then turned to measure the lift.
The Clean Air Act Amendments of 1990 recognized the fact that vehicles with
malfunctioning emissions control systems could go undetected for extended periods.
Annual emissions inspection programs were not enough. The EPA required vehicle
manufacturers to produce vehicle OBD systems capable of immediately identifying the
vehicle operator of emissions faults, effective from 1996. As part of the OBD II system,
all emissions-related components would be monitored for malfunction or deterioration.
On today's new vehicles, HC and CO emissions are reduced by more than 95% when
compared to a 1960's vintage vehicle; NOX emissions are reduced by 90%.
The exhaust emissions of automotive engines contain a number of harmful pollutants. In
order to minimize the amount of harmful pollutants being produced, manufacturers have
developed automotive emissions controls. The following is a list of the harmful exhaust
gases manufacturers plan to reduce, which includes how the gases are formed and why
they are dangerous.
Carbon Monoxide (CO)
Consists of carbon & oxygen. This colorless, odorless, poisonous gas is the product of
incomplete combustion. By weight, carbon monoxide accounts for the 47% of air
pollution.
Hydrocarbon (HC)
Hydrocarbons consist of carbon and hydrogen. Hydrocarbons are emitted in an
unburned form from equipment which uses a petroleum product as a source of fuel.
Hydrocarbons are one of the key elements responsible for the production of
photochemical smog.
Oxides of Nitrogen (NOX)
Oxides of nitrogen consist of nitrogen combined with varying amounts of oxygen. NO X
are produced by heat and pressure during the combustion process. NOX are also a main
component in smog.
Photochemical Smog
Photochemical smog, commonly referred to simply as smog, is a by-product of the
combination of HC and NOX . In the presence of sunlight these two elements form ozone
(O3), nitrogen dioxide, and nitrogen nitrate; all of which cause respiratory problems.
Nitrogen dioxide is a light brown colored gas which can affect visibility in the air corridors
around major airport terminals and above highways.
Particulates
Particulates are tiny particles of liquids and solids which are dispersed into the
atmosphere during any burning process. Particulates are composed of carbon, ash, oil,
grease, and metal oxides. Smoke, haze, and dust are types of air pollution which are
readily visible and are known to complicate respiratory problems cause by smog.
Emission Controls
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve
Operation
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system takes blow-by and other vapors and
draws them into the intake manifold under high vacuum signal conditions. They are
mixed with the air/fuel mixture and burned to reduce HC emissions. This allows oil vapor
to be introduced into the combustion process also alleviating crankcase pressure and
reducing the possibility of oil leaks.
Hydrocarbon vapors present in blow-by gasses provide additional enrichment and may
promote elevated levels of both hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide emissions. Lack of
scheduled oil changes can allow sludge and moisture to build up in the PCV system and
lead to blockage of the oil and PCV passages. Fuel contaminated oil can be verified by
monitoring tailpipe emissions and temporarily disabling the PCV valve.
Related Symptoms
Improper PCV system operation can cause oil leaks, oil consumption, poor idle,
stalling, increased crankcase pressures, and excessive wear. Increased
crankcase pressure due to poor circulation will result in increased levels of blowby gases and possibly an oil saturated air filter. If the PCV system is leaking, it
can cause a vacuum leak or result in a leaner air-fuel mixture at idle. A blocked
PCV system can cause a rich air-fuel mixture.
Outlet duct clamps at the turbocharger and the mass air flow/intake air
temperature (MAF/IAT) sensor if removing the right side valve
Outlet duct
2. If removing the right side valve, loosen the charged air cooler outlet duct to intake
hose clamp (A)
NOTE: Do not use a screwdriver or other tool to pry the hose loose. The hose
can be torn or damaged. Loosen the hose by twisting
3. Remove the charged air cooler outlet duct from the intake
4. If removing the left side valve, loosen the charged air cooler inlet duct to
turbocharger clamp (1)
NOTE: Do not use a screwdriver or other tool to pry the hose loose. The hose
can be torn or damaged. Loosen the hose by twisting
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
Charged air cooler inlet duct from the turbocharger
Heater outlet hose nut (A) in order to access the right side valve
Heater outlet hose bolt (B)
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Spring, diaphragm and cover
PCV diaphragm cover screws and tighten the screws
A. Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)
Heater outlet hose nut and bolt and tighten the nut
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
2. Remove the tape from the turbocharger openings
3. Align the mark on the duct with the mark on the turbocharger
4. Install or connect the following:
Charged air cooler inlet duct to the turbocharger
Duct clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Charged air cooler outlet duct to the intake by aligning the mark on the
duct with the mark on the intake
Duct clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Outlet duct to the turbocharger Align the outlet duct alignment indicator to
the turbocharger alignment indicator
NOTE: The outlet duct must be fully seated against the MAT/IAT sensor
with the edge of the seal in the vertical position.
Install or connect the following:
Outlet duct to the MAT/IAT sensor and tighten the outlet duct clamps at
the turbocharger and the MAF/IAT sensor
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Upper intake manifold cover
Upper intake manifold cover to the outlet duct and tighten the outlet duct
clamp at the upper intake manifold cover
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
5. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Related Symptoms
A faulty EGR system can exhibit the following symptoms due to loose connection, bad
grounds, high-resistance in the circuit, or open circuits:
Stalling on deceleration
Stalls at idle
Surging off idle
Unstable idle
Running rough off idle
Hesitation
Stumble
Chuggle
Low idle
Poor fuel economy
Spark knock
Stalling on acceleration
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
EGR valve to the EGR cooling tube
EGR to EGR cooling tube bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
EGR assembly to the engine
EGR assembly to EGR bracket bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
EGR assembly to exhaust pipe nuts and tighten the nuts
Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
EGR assembly to intake manifold nuts and tighten the nuts
A. Torque to: 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm)
EGR outlet cooling hose to EGR cooling tube
EGR inlet cooling hose to the EGR cooling tube
EGR vacuum hose to the EGR valve
Upper intake manifold tube and nuts and tighten the nuts
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Intake heater and gasket and tighten the heater
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Turbocharger boost sensor with bracket
Turbocharger boost sensor bracket bolt and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
2. Install air cleaner outlet duct
3. Fill cooling system
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Related Symptoms
The following symptoms can be caused by open circuits, dead-shorts to ground, short to
power or excessive resistance in the power and ground circuits; data line communication
malfunctions and /or component failure:
No Crank
No Start condition
No communication with scan tools
No communication with other modules
MIL lamp illumination
Intermittent component functions
Poor fuel economy
High emissions
Drivability concerns (stalling, bucking, stumble etc.)
Charging system malfunctions
To Install:
1. Install the PCM. Ensure that the mounting tabs are engaged.
2. Secure the spring latch to the PCM.
3. Connect the PCM electrical connectors.
Oxygen Sensor
Operation
Although the oxygen sensor is termed a sensor in actuality it is a galvanic battery. The
oxygen sensor compares the potential difference between the ambient oxygen content
around the exhaust and the oxygen content present in the exhaust stream. When the
exhaust sample is lean there is more oxygen in the exhaust as compared to the
atmosphere. When the exhaust sample is rich there is less oxygen content in the
exhaust as compared to the atmosphere. The greater the difference between ambient
oxygen and exhaust oxygen content the greater the voltage produced.
For the oxygen sensor(s) to operate properly it has to reach an operating temperature of
approximately 600F before a consistent voltage potential can be generated.
The Engine Management System (EMS) determines the state of readiness of the oxygen
sensor(s) by supplying a bias voltage of approximately 400 - 500mVDC to the oxygen
sensor. As the sensor begins to warm up the voltage produced increases due to rich
exhaust mixtures commanded by the EMS. When the EMS senses a return voltage
greater than the bias voltage the computer will command the fuel mixture lean. When the
output voltage from the sensor drops below bias voltage levels the computer will
command a rich mixture again. When the EMS determines that the O2 sensor has
responded properly and within a predetermined amount of time it will begin using the
sensor as an input to adjust the air/fuel mixture.
Typically oxygen sensors used in OBD II engine management systems incorporate
heaters. These heaters raise the sensors up to operating temperature quickly. The
sooner the oxygen sensor gets to operating temperature the sooner the EMS can
maintain closer control over emissions, economy and performance. The oxygen sensor
along with other sensors provides the computer with necessary information to maintain
favorable operating conditions for the catalytic converter. The role of the catalytic
converter is to store oxygen for the reduction of HC, CO and NOX emissions. The
oxygen sensor input is used by the EMS to protect the catalytic converter by cycling the
air/fuel mixture rich and lean. This provides adequate oxygen for storage while
maintaining cool enough operating temperatures to prevent catalyst damage.
In addition to controlling the catalytic converter's operating conditions for emissions
control the computer uses oxygen sensor data to tailor air/fuel mixture, providing a
balance between fuel economy and performance.
Abnormal sensor activity has a profound effect on pulse-width and air/fuel mixture
strategies. Sensor values that indicate lean conditions will cause the computer to
command changes in short term fuel strategies. Conditions such as secondary misfires
create excessive HC levels. This also produces high oxygen levels in the exhaust. The
oxygen sensor will "sense" only the increased oxygen content and input to the computer
will be below bias voltage levels. The computer will respond by commanding additional
fuel.
OBD II vehicles use oxygen sensors downstream of the catalytic converter(s) to monitor
the efficiency of the catalyst. When the catalyst performs properly available oxygen is
used resulting in low oxygen levels in the exhaust sample after the catalyst. While
downstream oxygen sensors are constructed the same as upstream oxygen sensors the
values that they generate are different. With relatively richer mixtures present around the
downstream oxygen sensor voltage inputs to the computer will be above the 450mV bias
voltage. If the catalyst is operating effectively the downstream oxygen sensor will cycle
when the catalyst is flooded with oxygen. Typical values from the downstream oxygen
sensor(s) are between 550- 900mV at idle.
While the downstream oxygen sensor is used to monitor catalyst efficiency the upstream
sensor has a pronounced effect on engine performance. Lean oxygen sensor values will
result in an increased pulse-width, excessive emissions, surging, hesitation, and catalyst
damage. Additional fuel can cause the catalyst temperatures to rise due to an
afterburner effect in the converter. The oxygen sensor is the only post-combustion input
to the EMS. Other malfunctioning systems also affect its operation.
An improper rich condition will cause the oxygen sensor to lean operating conditions.
This may result in loss of power, hesitation, surging, poor idle quality and possibly
converter damage. Sensors that do not switch properly, or are lazy, do not provide
accurate information to allow the computer to properly maintain the air/fuel mixture.
Faulty heaters do not allow the sensors to reach operating temperature fast enough and
the vehicle may remain in open loop for longer periods of time. Malfunctioning heaters
also allow the sensors to cool down during periods of extended idle.
Related Symptoms
A faulty oxygen sensor due to loose connections, bad grounds, high resistance in the
circuit, or opens in the circuit can cause the following symptoms.
Surging at idle
Unstable idle
Running rough off idle
Hesitation
Stumble
Chuggle
Poor fuel economy
Spark knock
Stalling on acceleration
A no start condition
Stalls at idle
Surging idle
Extended crank time when engine is cold
Hesitation
Stumble
Chuggle
Poor fuel economy
Bucking
Hesitation
Stumble
Chuggle
Stalling on Acceleration
Related Symptoms
The following symptoms can be caused by intermittent wiring connections or faulty signal
to the EMS:
NOTE: Engine Mechanical conditions can also create the same or similar symptoms.
(Dont overlook basic mechanical integrity).
To Install:
1. Lubricate the O-ring on the sensor with clean engine oil
2. Install or connect the following:
CKP sensor
CKP sensor bolt and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
CKP sensor electrical connector
Negative battery cable
3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
CKP sensors activity-If there is a CKP sensor condition, refer to the applicable
DTC that was set
Camshaft position (CMP) sensor activity-If there is a CMP sensor condition, refer
to the applicable DTC that was set
Engine coolant temperature (ECT)-If the ECT is not warm enough, idle the
engine until the ECT reaches normal operating temperature
Overheated transmission
Increased emissions
Poor fuel economy
Stalling on deceleration
Improper shift points
Cruise control inoperative
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Pressure Sensors
General Information
The Engine Management System (EMS) uses several different pressure sensors to
gather and control various emissions and driveability aspects of the vehicle. These may
include but are not limited to:
These sensors provide critical information to the EMS such as, barometric pressure,
atmospheric pressure, intake manifold/engine vacuum, fuel tank pressures and changes
as the vehicle is operated.
MAP Sensor
The EMS uses the MAP sensor on systems that have a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) as a
backup. The EMS also uses the MAP sensor as an EGR diagnostic device and as an
engine load verification device. The EMS system uses this information to calculate
engine load and EGR flow rates. The EMS uses speed-density calculations (non-mass
airflow sensor systems) to determine the required amount of fuel delivery.
BARO Sensor
The EMS uses a barometric (BARO) sensor on some vehicles to help compensate for
barometric changes at different altitudes. Barometric pressure changes with the weather
and with altitude. Essentially the density and humidity associated with the air around the
vehicle is monitored so the EMS can adjust for varying conditions. Since barometric
pressure affects the density of the air entering the engine and ultimately the air/fuel ratio,
some engine management systems use a barometric pressure sensor so that the spark
advance and EGR flow can be regulated to control emissions more precisely.
FTP Sensor
The Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor is part of the evaporative emissions system. The
Engine Management System (EMS) monitors gasoline vapor pressures in the fuel tank
to determine fuel tank sealing. The FTP sensor can be used in conjunction with an EVAP
vent valve and an EVAP canister purge valve.
Canister Purge Valve Only Vehicles
When ambient temperatures are above 68 Fahrenheit the gasoline in the fuel tank
vaporizes increasing fuel tank pressure. The FTP sensor is used to determine how much
evaporative pressure is being maintained in fuel tank. This is a test for gross evaporative
emissions leaks.
FTP Sensor
MIL Lamp and DTC Set - If there is a leak in the system it will fail the evaporative
emissions diagnostic monitor test. Verify that all vapor lines are properly routed and
connected and that the correct fuel cap is properly installed before doing any other
diagnostics.
To Install:
1. Install the fuel pressure sensor.
2. Install the fuel tank.
To Install:
1. Apply sealant to the threads of the oil pressure sensor
2. Install or connect the following:
Engine oil pressure sensor and tighten the sensor
A. Torque to: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
Engine oil pressure sensor electrical connector
3. Lower the vehicle
4. If required, check and adjust the engine oil level
5. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Diagnostic Information
General Information
Scan Tools
All late-model vehicles utilize computers to monitor and control the functions of on-board
systems. These modules are known by many names such as Engine Control Unit (ECU),
Engine Control Module (ECM), Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Transmission Control
Module (TCM) and Vehicle Control Module (VCM). When problems occur in control
circuits these modules record a diagnostic trouble code that can be used to help solve
the problem. There is also freeze frame data and an OBD status report available to the
technician. Over the years there have been many different variations of systems, each
with their own unique way of retrieving these codes. On a good number of the older
systems the stored codes were flashed on check engine lights (found in the dash cluster)
once a small jumper wire was placed across the proper diagnostic terminals. However
the use of a hand-held scan tool was still preferred for these systems by dealership
service departments.
For some models produced during the 1995 model year and on almost every single 1996
and later model a new form of trouble code reporting was developed which required the
use of a scan tool. On Board Diagnostic-II (OBD-II) compliant vehicles use a 5 digit,
alpha-numeric code which would be difficult or impossible to read using a flashing light.
Trouble code reading on an OBD-II compliant vehicle requires a scan tool. Flashing
trouble codes are a thing of the past.
The scan tool allows any stored codes to be read from the ECM. The tool also allows the
operator to view the data being used by the engine management computer while the
engine is running, or with the engine OFF and the key ON. This ability has obvious
diagnostic advantages; the use of the scan tool is frequently required for component
testing. The scan tool makes collecting information easier; the data must be correctly
interpreted by an operator familiar with the vehicles operating systems.
An example of the usefulness of the scan tool may be seen in the case of a temperature
sensor which has changed its electrical characteristics. The computer module is reacting
to an apparently warmer engine (causing a driveability problem) but the sensors voltage
has not changed enough to set a fault code. The voltage signal being sent to the module
may be viewed by connecting a scan tool. Comparison to normal values or a known
good vehicle reveals the problem quickly.
Generic Codes
DTC Description
P0109 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High
P0114 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent
P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High
P0119 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0120 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Low
P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit High
P0124 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Intermittent
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation
P0127 Intake Air Temperature Too High
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Operating Temp
P0129 Barometric Pressure Too Low
P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit - Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage - Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage - Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response - Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected - Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit - Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit - Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage - Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage - Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response - Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected - Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit - Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0142 O2 Sensor Circuit - Bank 1 Sensor 3
P0143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage - Bank 1 Sensor 3
P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage - Bank 1 Sensor 3
P0145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response - Bank 1 Sensor 3
P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected - Bank 1 Sensor 3
P0147 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit - Bank 1 Sensor 3
P0148 Fuel Delivery Error
P0149 Fuel Timing Error
P0150 O2 Sensor Circuit - Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0151 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage - Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage - Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0153 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response - Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected - Bank 2 Sensor 1
P2440 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1
P2441 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1
P2442 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 2
P2443 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 2
P2444 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Stuck On Bank 1
P2445 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Stuck Off Bank 1
P2446 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Stuck On Bank 2
P2447 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Stuck Off Bank 2
P2500 Generator Lamp/L-Terminal Circuit Low
P2501 Generator Lamp/L-Terminal Circuit High
P2502 Charging System Voltage
P2503 Charging System Voltage Low
P2504 Charging System Voltage High
P2505 ECM/PCM Power Input Signal
P2506 ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Range/Performance
P2507 ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Low
P2508 ECM/PCM Power Input Signal High
P2509 ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Intermittent
P2510 ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Range/Performance
P2511 ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit Intermittent
P2512 Event Data Recorder Request Circuit/ Open
P2513 Event Data Recorder Request Circuit Low
P2514 Event Data Recorder Request Circuit High
P2515 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor "B" Circuit
P2516 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor "B" Circuit Range/Performance
P2517 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor "B" Circuit Low
P2518 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor "B" Circuit High
P2519 A/C Request "A" Circuit
P2520 A/C Request "A" Circuit Low
P2521 A/C Request "A" Circuit High
P2522 A/C Request "B" Circuit
P2523 A/C Request "B" Circuit Low
P2524 A/C Request "B" Circuit High
P2525 Vacuum Reservoir Pressure Sensor Circuit
P2526 Vacuum Reservoir Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P2527 Vacuum Reservoir Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P2528 Vacuum Reservoir Pressure Sensor Circuit High
P2529 Vacuum Reservoir Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P2530 Ignition Switch Run Position Circuit
P2531 Ignition Switch Run Position Circuit Low
P2532 Ignition Switch Run Position Circuit High
P2533 Ignition Switch Run/Start Position Circuit
P2534 Ignition Switch Run/Start Position Circuit Low
P2535 Ignition Switch Run/Start Position Circuit High
P2536 Ignition Switch Accessory Position Circuit
P2537 Ignition Switch Accessory Position Circuit Low
P2538 Ignition Switch Accessory Position Circuit High
P2539 Low Pressure Fuel System Sensor Circuit
P2540 Low Pressure Fuel System Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P2541 Low Pressure Fuel System Sensor Circuit Low
P2542 Low Pressure Fuel System Sensor Circuit High
FUEL SYSTEM
Fuel System Service Precautions
Safety is the most important factor when performing not only fuel system
maintenance, but any type of maintenance. Failure to conduct maintenance and
repairs in a safe manner may result in serious personal injury or death.
Maintenance and testing of the vehicle's fuel system components can be
accomplished safely and effectively by adhering to the following rules and
guidelines.
To avoid the possibility of fire and personal injury, always disconnect the negative
battery cable unless the repair or test procedure requires that battery voltage be
applied.
Always relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting any fuel system
component (injector, fuel rail, pressure regulator, etc.), fitting or fuel line
connection. Exercise extreme caution whenever relieving fuel system pressure,
to avoid exposing skin, face and eyes to fuel spray. Please be advised that fuel
under pressure may penetrate the skin or any part of the body that it contacts.
Always place a shop towel or cloth around the fitting or connection prior to
loosening to absorb any excess fuel due to spillage. Ensure that all fuel spillage
(should it occur) is quickly removed from engine surfaces. Ensure that all fuel
soaked cloths or towels are deposited into a suitable waste container.
Always keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
Do not allow fuel spray or fuel vapors to come into contact with a spark or open
flame.
Always use a backup wrench when loosening and tightening fuel line connection
fittings. This will prevent unnecessary stress and torsion to fuel line piping.
Always replace worn fuel fitting O-rings with new. Do not substitute fuel hose or
equivalent, where fuel pipe is installed.
Before servicing the vehicle, make sure to refer to the precautions in the
beginning of this section as well.
Drain the fuel remained inside the fuel tank main tube
Protect the disconnected fuel tank main tube from damage and foreign material
by covering it with a vinyl bag
NOTE: Check that there is no dirt or mud on the fuel lines and around the connector
before disconnecting them and clean the dirt away.
WARNING
Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in order
to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
Place a "CAUTION FLAMMABLE" sign in the work area.
Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames
away.
Wear eye protection.
Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility
of burns or fire. (The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 degrees
C (1000 degrees F).
Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is
required.
Use a suitable container to store or catch fuel.
Do not replace fuel line with fuel hose.
Plug all disconnected fuel line fittings and hoses.
After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
WARNING
Wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure connection to avoid spillage and in order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal injury.
The towel will absorb any fuel leakage that occurs during the connection of the
fuel pressure gage.
Place the towel in an approved container when the connection of the fuel
pressure gage is complete.
Never store the fuel in an open container due to the possibility of a fire or an
explosion
CAUTION
Whenever fuel line fittings are loosened or removed, wrap a shop cloth around the fitting
and have an approved container available to collect any fuel.
CAUTION
Whenever fuel lines are removed, place fuel in an approved container. Container
opening must be a minimum of 300 mm (12 in.) diameter to adequately catch fuel.
WARNING
Do not drain the fuel into an open container. Never store the fuel in an open container
due to the possibility of a fire or an explosion.
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Pump Primer located on top of the fuel filter 30 times or until stiff
3. Attempt to start and run the engine. If the engine does not start, repeat step 1
4. Allow to run for 5 minutes at idle
5. Check for fuel leaks
6. Clear all engine diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs)
7. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
If one or more of the above occurred, air has entered the fuel system and you will need
to prime the system prior to operating the vehicle.
NOTE: Prior to priming the engine, ensure that the following is complete:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Open the vent valve by turning the screw counterclockwise several full turns
6.6L Fuel system prime pump
3. Operate the priming pump until a small amount of fuel seeps from the vent valve
4. Allow the pump to return upwards between pumps
5. When fuel is present, the filter is full of fuel and the system should be primed
6. Close the vent valve
7. Clean any fuel which accumulated on the fuel filter
8. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few minutes
9. Check the filter for leaks
10. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Attach a small piece of hose to the drain cock onto the water-in-fuel sensor
3. Place an approved fuel-resistant container under the fuel filter
4. Open the drain cock three or four turns or until the water contaminated fuel seeps
from the drain cock
5. Operate the priming pump until only diesel fuel is visible. Allow the pump to
return upwards between pushes
6. Tighten the drain cock
7. Remove the container and hose
8. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Fuel Filter
To Remove:
Fuel filter/water separator (6.6L diesel engine)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
To Install:
1. Install the fuel filter to the housing.
2. Install the bracket to the housing.
Tighten the bolts to 15 lb ft (20 Nm).
To Install
1. Install or connect the following:
Fuel injector feed lines and tighten the fittings
A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
fuel injector feed line retainers and bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)
EGR valve
Heater outlet hose
Fuel filter
2.
3.
4.
5.
Left Side
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Loosen the outlet duct clamp at the upper intake manifold cover.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Upper intake manifold cover from the outlet duct
Upper intake manifold cover
4. Drain the cooling system
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
6.6L Charged cooler outlet duct
6. Loosen the charged air cooler inlet duct to turbocharger clamp (A)
NOTE: Do not use a screwdriver or other tool to pry the hose loose. The hose
can be torn or damaged. Loosen the hose by twisting.
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
Charged air cooler inlet duct from the turbocharger
Battery cable to alternator nut
Battery cable to auxiliary alternator nut if equipped
Battery cable harness clip from the bracket
Battery cable junction block bolt from the power steering pump
8. Move and secure the battery cables out of the way
9. Remove or disconnect the following:
Fuel lines from the chassis lines
Fuel hose bracket nut from the upper valve rocker arm cover
Engine wiring harness connectors by lifting up on the latch in order to disconnect the
connectors
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Fuel injector feed lines and tighten the fittings
A. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Fuel injector feed line retainers and bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm)
PCV hose to the upper valve rocker arm cover
PCV hose clamp
Engine wiring harness bracket bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Engine wiring harness bulk electrical connector bolts and tighten the bolts
Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Engine wiring harness bulk electrical connectors
Water outlet tube
Glow plug relay bracket
auxiliary generator, if equipped
fuel lines to the chassis lines
fuel hose bracket nut to the valve rocker arm cover and tighten the nut
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
Alternator positive cable
Alternator positive cable in the clip on the engine front cover
Alternator positive cable and nut to the alternator and tighten the nut
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Battery positive cable junction block bracket and bolt to the power
steering pump and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
charged air cooler inlet duct to the turbocharger
2. Align the mark on the duct with the mark on the turbocharger
3. Install or connect the following:
Air cooler inlet duct clamp for proper clearance and tighten the clamp
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
Negative battery cable
4. Fill the cooling system
5. Install or connect the following:
Upper intake manifold cover
Upper intake manifold cover to the outlet duct and tighten the outlet duct
clamp at the upper intake manifold cover
A. Torque to: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
6. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Injectors
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
CAUTION
Always install new injector O-rings when servicing the fuel injectors. Lubricate the new
injector O-rings with clean engine oil
CAUTION
Be extremely careful while working on an operating engine, make sure you have no
dangling jewelry, extremely loose clothes, power tool cords or other items that might get
caught in a moving part of the engine.
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Lower valve cover (See: Rocker Arm/Valve Cover Lower)
6.6L Fuel pressure lines removal
1. Install J 44639 (B) or other suitable injector tool onto the injector retainer bracket
2. Install a wrench onto J 44639 (B) or other suitable injector tool and pry away from
the fuel injector (A)
NOTE: Confirm which side of the banjo washers have the largest hole.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Fuel injector(s)
Copper compression washer from the injector hole if the washer was not
removed with the injector
To Install:
6.6L Fuel injector sleeves
1. If the fuel injector sleeve was pulled from the cylinder head when removing the
injector, the injector sleeve installation procedure is as follows:
Set the new injector sleeve gaskets (A) to the injector sleeve (B)
NOTE: An injector sleeve with scoring or other damage must be replaced.
Using a large brass drift (D), drive the injector sleeve (B) into the cylinder
head until fully seated
2. Install or connect the following:
Copper compression washer and assembly grease may be needed to
hold the washer in place
New injector(s)
Bolt on the injector bracket and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm)
Fuel injector pressure line to the fuel injectors
New copper gaskets on the fuel injector lines and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
Lower valve cover (See: Rocker Arm/Valve Cover Lower)
3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Injection Pump
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Air intake duct between the air cleaner and the turbocharger inlet housing
3. Drain the cooling system
NOTE: Cover the air intake pipe end with duct tape to prevent the infiltration of
dirt.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
Upper fan shroud
Fan (See: Engine Fan and Clutch)
Drive belt
Bolt holding the positive battery cable junction box and bracket and move
out of the way
A/C compressor
NOTE: Remove only the air conditioning/power steering bracket. Do not
discharge the A/C or remove the A/C and power steering lines.
Power steering pump and position the A/C compressor and power
steering pump aside (See: Power Steering Pump)
Oil filler tube
Air conditioning/power steering bracket
Alternator (See: Alternator)
Thermostat housing bracket, wiring and fuel test port, and two nuts
Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) catch tank from the PCV bracket and
bolt below holding lower line, and move to the side
Alternator bracket
Turbo cooling hose return line clamp and hose
Upper radiator hose at the outlet pipe
Bracket and support the bracket at the valve cover, and swing out of the
way
Bolt holding wiring support bracket at thermostat housing
5. Move the main wiring harness by disconnecting the following:
The fuel pressure regulator connector on the fuel injection pump
The fuel injection control module connectors
6. Flip the wire harness and harness tray towards the back and set aside
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
Heater pipe bolt and temperature sensor wire from the thermostat
housing
Air intake pipe
Water crossover
High pressure line from the injection pump to the junction block
Fuel injection pump from the block using two screwdrivers to work the
pump from the block towards rear of engine keeping the pump straight
Separate the pump and adapter by removing the three bolts and spacers
Inspect the O-ring for damage on pump adapter and replace, if necessary
Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil
Clean all mating surfaces
Install the adapter on the pump
Using the three bolts and spacers to reassemble the pump and tighten
the bolts
1. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Replace the gear and nut and tighten the nut
1. Torque to: 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Fuel injection pump
Fuel injection pump bolts to the front of the engine front cover and tighten
the bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Fuel return line banjo bolt at the junction block and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
Fuel supply hose and hose clamp to the fuel injection pump
Fuel return hose and hose clamp to the fuel injection pump
High pressure lines to the injection pump to the junction block and tighten
the fittings
A. Torque to: 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm)
Fuel pressure sensor connector at the junction block
Hose to turbocharger water feed line
Water crossover
Air intake pipe
Heater pipe using the following procedure:
A. New O-ring lubricated with clean engine oil
B. Heater pipe bracket bolt and tighten the bolt, Torque to: 15 ft. lbs.
(20 Nm)
C. Heater pipe to water crossover bolts and tighten the bolts, Torque
to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Engine wiring harness
Upper radiator hose at outlet pipe using the following procedure:
Upper radiator hose mounting bolts and brackets
Upper radiator hose clamp and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Turbo cooling hose return and clamp
Left idler pulley and bolt
PCV catch tank, hose clamp and bolt to the right front of the engine
Thermostat housing bracket, wiring, fuel test port and nuts
Alternator
New O-ring to the oil fill tube and lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil
Oil fill tube
Air conditioning/power steering bracket and bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 34 ft. lbs. (46 Nm)
Power steering pump (See: Power Steering Pump)
Air conditioning compressor
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
To Install:
1. If the regulator is being re-used, check the O-rings and replace if necessary.
Make sure to lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil.
2. Install the fuel pressure regulator. It is important to install the regulator straight to
prevent damage to the O-rings.
3. Install the fuel pressure regulator mounting screws.
Tighten the screws first to 35 lb in (4 Nm) and then a second time to 62
lb in (7 Nm).
4. Connect the injection pump inlet hose to the fuel feed distribution (leak) block.
5. Install the PCV hoses to the valve covers.
6. Connect the following:
oil level sensor connector
fuel pressure regulator connector
left rear and front fuel injector electrical connectors
fuel rail temperature sensor connector
glow plug relay connectors
BARO sensor connector
Glow Plugs
Removal & Installation
Both Banks
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cables
Front wheel and tire
Inner splash shield from the fender well
Air cleaner outlet duct
Electrical nuts from the glow plug(s)
Harness from the glow plug(s)
NOTE: On vehicles with Federal emissions systems, there is a buss bar
connecting the glow plugs on each bank of the engine.
6.6L Glow plug removal
Glow plug(s)
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Glow plug and tighten the glow plug
A. Torque to: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
Buss bar and wiring
Glow plug electrical nut and tighten the nut
A. Torque to: 13 inch lbs. (1.5 Nm)
Air cleaner outlet duct
Splash shield to the fender well
Negative battery cables
Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
Chassis Electrical Overview
Understanding Electrical Systems
Basic Electrical Theory
Electricity is based on the principle that electrons are attracted to protons. Electron
movement can be created when the atomic structure of a material is forced to become
imbalanced. Atoms are made up of an equal quantity of positively and negatively
charged parts. The nucleus contains protons, with a positive charge, and neutrons with a
neutral charge. The negative charge or electrons constantly orbit around the nucleus in
valence rings.
If an electron were to be separated from an atom it would assume a net positive charge
and become a position ion. On the other hand, if an element were to "acquire" an
electron it would have a net negative charge and become a negative ion. If we were to
store these positive and negative ions in a container we would have a power source, or
battery.
Voltage
Electricity is the flow of electrons from a greater potential (more electrons) to a lesser
potential (less electrons). If a path were provided for the electrons from the negative ions
to flow to the positive ions each ion could then maintain its balanced condition. The
pressure that the electrons exert when returning to its source is called voltage. When
voltage (V) is measured with a voltmeter, the value displayed represents the attractive
force, or electromotive force available to get the atoms in balance again.
Amperage
Amperage is a measure of the actually quantity of electrons that flow from the net
negative charge to the net positive charge. This movement of electrons, or current, is
what actually does the work in an electrical circuit. Current flow is measured in units of
Amperes, or Amps (A). Amperage is a time-based unit. One Amp is equal to 6.28 x 1028
electrons moving past one point in one second. When an ammeter is connected in series
with a circuit, the actual quantity of electrons that flow through the circuit are measured.
Resistance
Resistance is an elements ability to oppose current flow. The resistance of an element
depends upon its atomic structure- specifically how many electrons are held in orbit in
the outermost or valence ring. Up to eight electrons can occupy the valence ring of an
atom. When fewer electrons are present in the valence ring there is more "room" for
electrons to flow across the surface of an atom.
Electrically speaking, elements can be categorized as conductors, insulators and semiconductors. Conductors are elements with between one and three electrons in their
valence ring. Insulators are elements that contain between five and eight valence ring
electrons. Semi-conductors are elements that contain four electrons in their valence ring.
Impedance is something that restricts flow. If you put a number of connections along an
electrical circuit, each connection becomes a source of resistance slowing the flow of
electricity to its final destination. A common analogy would be a coke bottle; if you turn a
coke bottle upside down to empty its contents it takes a longer period of time to do so.
There is resistance within the bottle to empty a large volume of fluid through a low
volume orifice. Now, take the same bottle turned on its side so there is air space present
at the mouth of the bottle while pouring out the fluid. The process takes less time due to
low impedance (less resistance). The resistance we find in an electrical circuit is
measured in Ohms. The resistance of a circuit varies depending on the amount and type
of components used in the circuit. When an Ohmmeter is used to measure resistance.
Current is applied to the component from a power source (battery) in the meter. The
voltage that returns to the meter is converter to a resistive value.
The main factors which determine resistance are the material used, the size and cross
section of the wire, the length of the wire and the temperature that these items operate.
Some materials have more resistance than others. Those with high resistance are said
to be insulators. Rubber materials (or rubber-like plastics) are some of the most common
insulators used in vehicles as they have a very high resistance to electricity. Very low
resistance materials are said to be conductors. Copper wire is among the best
conductors. Most automotive wiring is made of copper. Silver is actually a superior
conductor to copper and is used in some relay contacts, but its high cost prohibits its use
as common wiring. Airbag systems commonly use gold plated terminal to ensure that
current will readily flow through the system. Gold, while cost prohibitive, will not react to
air and contaminants that can contribute to unwanted voltage drops.
Larger diameter wires provide more surface area for current flow. The larger the wire
size being used, the less resistance the wire will have. Solid conductors provide less
surface area when compared to stranded conductors. Stranded conductors have the
capacity to carry greater currents when compared to solid conductors of the same gauge
(size). This is because the individual strands of a stranded conductor contribute to
greater surface area. This is why components which use large amounts of electricity
have larger wires supplying current to them. All elements offer some degree of
resistance. While copper wire, as an example, is a conductor, it too has a resistive value.
For a given thickness of wire, the longer the wire, the greater the resistance. The shorter
the wire, the less the resistance. When determining the proper wire for a circuit, both
size (gauge) and length must be considered to design a circuit that can handle the
current needed to provide enough power to the component being powered. With many
materials, the higher the temperature, the greater the resistance (positive temperature
coefficient). Some materials exhibit the opposite trait of lower resistance with higher
temperatures (negative temperature coefficient). These principles are used in many of
the sensors on the engine. As voltage flows through the wiring, these varying properties
effect the overall performance of the electrical system, but the current is what actually
does the work.
voltage is power. The unit of power is the watt (W). The relationship between power,
voltage and current in direct current (DC) circuits is expressed as:
Power (W) is equal to amperage (I) times voltage (E); or,
W=I x E
For as much as power can be an indication of how much work can be performed it is
also a requirement. A certain amount of current has to be forced through a component in
order for that component to function.
Circuits
For any 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system, or circuit, to operate, the electricity
must travel in a complete path. As a rule, electrons move from negative to positive. If
youve ever seen slow motion footage of a lightning strike no doubt youve seen lightning
originate in the clouds and move to the earth. The earth is actually the positive pole and
the clouds are the negative. We consider conventional current to flow from positive to
negative. In all actuality the negative electrons are moving to positive, jumping over the
positive electrons that are being moved back to negative, thus completing the cycle of
returning to the source. Simply put, current (power)flows from a source from the positive
(+) terminal of the battery) and eventually returns back to to the source. Throughout this
cycle, current flows through an endless maze of wiring, fuses, switches, and relays. If
current is interrupted the component fed by that circuit ceases to function.
The easiest way to visualize a circuit is to think of connecting a 12-volt light bulb with
two wires attached to the battery. One wire is attached to the negative terminal and the
other to the positive terminal of the battery. This is a single load, series circuit. When
both terminals are attached to the battery the circuit is complete and the light bulb would
illuminate. Current follows a path from the battery through the light bulb and returns to
the battery. On a typical electrical circuit this circuit would contain switches and/or
controls and fuse protection.
This example illustrates a simple circuit. When the switch is
closed, power from the positive battery terminal flows
through the fuse and the switch, and then through the light
bulb. The light illuminates and the circuit is completed
through the ground wire back to the negative battery
terminal. In reality, the two ground points shown in the
illustration are attached to the metal frame of the vehicle
that completes the circuit back to the battery
Most automotive circuits differ from this simple example. Instead of having a "return wire"
from the bulb to the battery, the current travels through the frame of the vehicle. Since
the negative battery cable is attached to the frame (made of electrically conductive
metal), the frame of the vehicle can serve as a ground wire to complete the circuit.
Three kinds or circuit configurations can be found in the automobile: the series circuit,
the parallel circuit and the series-parallel circuit.
Series Circuit
Series circuits have only one path for current to flow. Voltage is consumed as current
flows through a series circuit. Current flow is consistent. Using a 12-volt circuit as an
example voltage measured before the load would equal source voltage. Voltage
measured after the load would be zero volts. An ammeter placed in series would read
the same amperage if it were placed in the circuit before or after the load. There are
relatively fewer series circuits used in automotive applications. They are commonly used
to isolate circuits where higher current flow, such as a blower motor circuit.
Parallel Circuits
Parallel circuits have multiple paths for current to flow. As additional paths are added to
a parallel circuit, the amount of current flow increases because there are more paths for
current to flow through. The branches of a parallel circuit have the same voltage
available to them. One advantage of using parallel circuits is that the amount of wiring
used to provide power to components is reduced. One single conductive path can
provide the same power to multiple components.
Series-Parallel Circuits
Series parallel circuits incorporate a series portion and a parallel portion. Typically, a
load is installed in the series portion to limit how much voltage is applied to the remaining
parallel portion of the circuit. One example of a series-parallel circuit that can be found in
automotive applications is the instrument panel illumination circuit. The dimmer, or
rheostat, is a variable resistance installed in the series portion of the circuit. All of the
instrument panel illumination lamps are wired in parallel. As the dimmer is rotated,
voltage is regulated to the illumination lamps. The higher the resistance of the rheostat,
the less voltage is allowed to flow through the illumination lamps. In turn, the brightness,
of the lamps decreases.
Electrical Components
Power Source
There are two power sources in the automobile: the battery and the alternator. The
battery supplies electrical power during starting or during periods when the current
demand of the vehicles electrical system exceeds the output capacity of the alternator.
The alternator supplies electrical current when the engine is running. Alternators contain
a voltage regulator that works like an on/off switch. The regulator monitors the condition
of the battery and when the battery drops below a specific voltage the regulator turns on
the alternator to replenish the battery. Under high load situations the alternator will turn
on to meet the increased demand.
The Battery
In Most modern vehicles use a lead/acid electrochemical storage device called a battery.
Twelve volt batteries consist of six 2.1 volt cells connected in series, so that the entire
unit is capable of producing 12.6 volts of electrical pressure. Each cell consists of a
series of positive and negative plates separated by insulators suspended in a weak
solution of sulfuric acid and water. Typically a battery at full charge will contain 13.2
Volts. The negative and positive plates are made of dissimilar materials with unlike
charges (positive and negative). The combination of these dissimilar materials with a
sulfuric acid solution creates a chemical reaction within the battery. It is this reaction
which produces current flow from the battery when its positive and negative terminals
are connected to an electrical load.
A Batterys Capacity To Store Electrons Is Based On Its Physical Construction. Batteries
With A Greater Surface Area (More Plates) Have The Ability To Deliver Greater Amounts
Of Power. This Storage Capacity Is Commonly Referred To As Cold Cranking Amps
(CCA). Essentially It Describes How Many Amps Are Available At A Median
Temperature Of 32-Degrees Fahrenheit. When Power Is Depleted From The Battery It Is
Replaced By The Alternator, Restoring The Battery To Its Original Chemical State.
The Alternator
Maintaining a stable electrical environment is critical for engine management. This
environment provides the means for electrical components to function properly as well
provide a reference for the Engine Management System (EMS).
The alternating-current generator is the electrical systems primary source of power while
the engine is running. The generator must produce enough power to meet the demands
of the loads in the electrical system (e.g. ignition system, fuel pump, headlamps, blower
motor, turn signal) and recharge the battery. It converts mechanical energy into
alternating-current electricity, which is then rectified through diodes that alter it to direct
current for the electrical system and for recharging the battery. The generator is belt
driven.
There three basic parts of the automotive generator (alternator). They include the rotor,
the stator and the rectifier. The rotor is made up of a single conductor wound into many
turns. The stator is made up of three sets of windings. The wire that the stator is made
up of is larger than the wiring used in the rotor. The rotor spins inside of the stator and
does not physically touch it. As current flows through the rotor, it is induced into the
stator. Regulating current through the rotor of the generator controls generator output.
The greater the field current through the rotor, the greater the current induced into the
stator. The induced current in the stator flows through a rectifier bridge to the battery
because the battery is at a lower voltage potential than the stator.
The rectifier bridge splits the AC voltage inducted into the stator. The positive portion of
the AC voltage flows through three of the diodes and on to the positive side of the
battery. The negative portion of the AC voltage flows through the remaining diodes and
on to the negative side of the battery.
Ground
Ground provides an area of lower potential so that current can flow through electrical
circuits. Two types of grounds are used in automotive electric circuits. Direct ground
components are grounded to the frame through their mounting points. All other
components use some sort of ground wire which is attached to the frame or chassis of
the vehicle. The electrical current runs through the chassis of the vehicle and returns to
the battery through the ground () cable. If you look, you'll see that the battery ground
cable connects between the battery and the frame or chassis of the vehicle.
It is possible for large surges of current to pass through the electrical system of your
vehicle. If this surge of current were to reach the load in the circuit, this surge could burn
it out or cause severe damage to the vehicles electrical system. It can overload the
wiring, causing the harness to get hot and melt the insulation. To protect vehicle wiring,
fuses, circuit breakers and/or fusible links are typically installed into the power supply
wires throughout the electrical system. These items are nothing more than a built-in
weak spot in the system. When an excessive amount of current flows through a circuit it
causes an increase in heat throughout the wiring. Fuses and circuit breakers are
designed as the weak link in the system and will disconnect the circuit to prevent
damage to the components contained within that circuit. Components are equipped with
connectors so they may be replaced in situations where they were damaged due to a
power surge.
The following are descriptions as to how fuses and circuit breakers protect the electrical
system:
Fuse- A fuse is a weak link in the system designed to create an open circuit when
the amperage flowing through that circuit exceeds the limits of the fuse. As the
amperage increases, the conductor within the fuse heats up and eventually melts
and breaks apart. This open circuit interrupts the flow of current and protects the
components in the circuit.
Circuit Breaker- A circuit breaker is a "self-repairing" fuse. It will open the circuit
in the same fashion as a fuse. The surge creates heat the same way that a fuse
is affected. When the surge subsides and the circuit cools down, the circuit
breaker will reset and allow current to flow through the circuit. Typically circuit
breakers do not need to be replaced.
Fusible Link- A fusible link (fuse link or main link) is a short length of special, high
temperature insulated wire that acts as a fuse. When an excessive electrical
current passes through a fusible link, the thin gauge wire inside the link melts,
creating an open to protect the circuit. To repair the circuit, the link must be
replaced. Some newer type fusible links are housed in plug-in modules, which
are simply replaced like a fuse, while older type fusible links must be cut and
spliced if they melt
CAUTION
Always replace fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links with identically rated
components. Under no circumstances should a protection device of higher or lower
amperage rating be substituted.
Switches
Switches are used in electrical circuits to control current flow. The most common use of
relays and switches is to open and close circuits between the battery and various
electrical loads in a circuit. loads are rated according to the amount of amperage they
can handle. All of the current that the controlled load uses flows through a switch. Using
a switch with an amperage rating lower than what the circuit is rated for could overload
and cause damage to the components located on that circuit. Relays
The underhood fuse and relay panel contains fuses, relays,
flashers and fusible links
Relays are used to control high-current loads with lower currents. Since these some
loads require a large amount of current, the thickness of the wire in the circuit is also
greater. If a switch were used to control the circuit, all of the current required to power
the high-current load would have to pass through the switch.
From a design standpoint, relays are used to limit current through switches and reduce
the amount of heavy gauge wiring in the vehicle.
Relays are constructed of a set of switch contacts and a small electro-magnetic coil.
When current flow through the coil a magnetic field is created. This field causes the
contacts to touch, in turn completing the high-current circuit. Typically, relays are
constructed so that the secondary contacts are open when the relay is de-energized
(turned off). Circuits where relays are used include, but are not limited to, the horns,
headlights, starter motor, electric fuel pump, blower motor and cooling fan motor.
Relays are composed of a coil and a set of switch contacts.
The large wires connect a high current power source to one
side of the relay switch contacts and from the other side of
the relay switch contacts to the load. The smaller wires
connect a low current power source to the relay control coil
and from the control coil to the control switch and then to
ground.
Load
Every electrical circuit must include a "load'' (something to consume voltage from the
power source). Loads are resistances included in circuits to limit current flow. Loads are
the components installed in circuits, such as headlights, wiper motors, door lock
solenoids. Without a load, the battery would flow all of its energy through a circuit directly
to ground. This is called a "dead-short to ground". The unchecked flow of electricity
would cause a great amount of damage to the circuit by developing a tremendous
amount of heat. Short circuits can develop sufficient heat to melt the insulation of
surrounding wires, even reducing a multiple wire cable to a lump of plastic and copper.
schematic shows the technician the components in a circuit, the pin locations at the
ECM, and provides a diagnostic tool to isolate electrical faults within a circuit.
Connectors
Three types of connectors are commonly used in automotive applications:
Jumper wires are simple, yet extremely valuable pieces of test equipment. They are
basically wires that are used to bypass sections of a circuit. Although jumper wires can
be purchased, they can be fabricated from lengths of standard automotive wire and
whatever type of connector (alligator clip, spade connector or pin connector) that is
required for the particular application being tested. Insulated boots should cover the
jumper wire terminals to prevent accidental grounding.
Jumper wires are used primarily to locate opens in electrical circuits. If an electrical
component fails to operate, connect the jumper wire between the component and a good
ground. If the component operates with the jumper installed in the ground circuit, the
ground circuit is open. If the ground circuit is good, but the component does not operate,
the circuit between the power feed and component may be open.
You can sometimes connect the jumper wire directly from the battery to the "hot"
terminal of the component. Make sure the component operates on 12 volts. Some
electrical components, such as sensors, are designed to operate on 5 volts. Running 12
volts directly to these components will cause damage.
Test Lights
A 12 volt test light is used to detect the presence of voltage
in a circuit
Test lights are used to check for electrical current in circuits and components when a
circuit is powered. Test lights are used to test for voltage and ground. To use a 12-volt
test light, connect the ground clip to a good ground and probe wherever necessary with
the pick. The test light will illuminate when voltage is detected. If the test light does not
illuminate; there is an open circuit (no power). Move the test light in successive steps
back toward the power source until the light in the handle illuminates. The open is
between the test light and a point that was previously probed.
Test lights only indicate that power is available. This does not necessarily mean that
adequate voltage (or any particular amount of voltage) is present; it only means that
some voltage is present. Before using the test light, verify that it work by touching its
ground clip to the negative battery terminal and probe the positive battery terminal to
ensure that the light is operating.
WARNING
Do not use a test light to probe electronic ignition, spark plug or coil wires. Never use a
pick-type test light to probe wiring on computer controlled systems unless specifically
instructed. Any wire insulation that is pierced by the test light probe should be sealed
after testing with liquid tape.
The self-powered test light is similar in design to the 12 volt test light, but contains a 1.5
volt battery in the handle. It is most often used in place of a Digital Volt- Ohm Meter
(DVOM) to check for open circuits. The self-powered test light can also be used to
perform continuity checks when power is isolated from the circuit.
The battery in a self-powered test light does not provide much current. A weak battery
may not provide enough power to illuminate the test light even when a complete circuit is
made (especially if the circuit has high resistance). Always make sure that the battery in
the self-powered test light has a sufficient charge. To check the battery, remove the
battery from the tester and connect to a DVOM to check the total voltage available.
Replace the battery if the voltage is less than adequate.
NOTE: A self-powered test light should not be used on any computer controlled system
or component. The small amount of power applied to the circuit or component from the
test light is enough to damage many electronic automotive components.
Multimeters
Multimeters are an extremely useful tool for troubleshooting electrical problems. They
can be purchased in either analog or digital form and have a price range to suit any
budget. A multimeter is a voltmeter, ammeter and ohmmeter (along with other features)
combined into one instrument. It is often used when testing solid state circuits because
of its high input impedance (usually 10 Mega-Ohms or more). A brief description of the
multimeter main test functions follows:
Voltmeter- This meter function is used to measure voltage at any point in a circuit, or to
measure the voltage drop across any part of a circuit. Voltmeters usually have various
scales and a selector switch to allow different voltage in various voltage ranges. The
voltmeter has a positive and a negative lead. Note that the voltmeter's negative lead will
always be black and that the positive will always be some color other than black (usually
red).
To avoid damage to an analog meter, always connect the negative lead to the
negative side of the circuit (to ground or nearest the ground side of the circuit)
and connect the positive lead to the positive side of the circuit (to the power
source or the nearest power source)
Digital multi-meters are not polarity sensitive and can be installed backwards in a
circuit. If a digital multi-meter is installed opposite of how current flows through
the circuit a negative value will be displayed
Excessive resistance will cause current to decrease. The value displayed on the
ammeter will be lower than expected
An open circuit will not allow any current to flow, so the ammeter display will be
zero
A shorted circuit or component will have more current flowing through it, the
value displayed on the meter will be higher than expected
Excessive current draw can blow fuses and drain the battery, while a reduced current
draw can cause motors to run slowly, lights to dim and other components to not operate
properly.
The ammeter is always connected in series with the circuit being tested. All of the
current that flows through the circuit must also flow through the ammeter. The ammeter
itself has very little resistance to current flow and typically will not affect circuit operation.
Testing
Available Battery Voltage
Determining voltage available at the battery should be the first step in any electrical
troubleshooting procedure, after a visual inspection. Many electrical problems, especially
on computer controlled systems, can be caused by a low state of charge in the battery.
Excessive corrosion at the battery cable terminals will inhibit proper charging and proper
battery current flow.
1. Ensure that the engine is not running and all electrical accessories are turned off
2. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20V position (minimum)
3. Connect the multi-meter negative lead to the battery's negative post or terminal
and the positive lead to the battery's positive post or terminal.
A fully charged battery will have 12.6 volts
A battery voltage under 12.4 volts will require the battery to be charged
before continuing any diagnosis
When battery voltage is higher than 12.6 volts, the battery is holding a
surface charge. The surface charge can be removed by turning on the
headlights for 15 seconds and then turning them off. Allow the battery to
rest for fifteen seconds and measure battery voltage again
Open Circuits
The infinite reading on this multimeter indicates that the
circuit is open
NOTE: This test already assumes the existence of an open in the circuit and it is used to
help locate the open portion.
1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground
2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to the ground of the
circuit
3. Probe sections of the circuit systematically
If the light is out or there is infinite resistance, the open is between the
probe and the circuit ground
If the light is on or the meter shows continuity, the open is between the
probe and the end of the circuit toward the power source
Short Circuits
NOTE: Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or shorts when
power is applied to the circuit. The test light can be damaged by outside power.
1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground
2. Connect the test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good ground. Probe any
easy-to-reach point in the circuit
If the light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in
the circuit
3. To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit
The light should be on or the meter should indicate continuity
4. Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors or
switches, remove parts, etc., until the light goes out or continuity is broken
When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit
components that were opened
Voltage Drop
When current flows through a load, the voltage after the load decreases. This voltage
drop is due to the resistance of the load. Voltage drops also occur because of unwanted
resistance created by corrosion at connectors and damaged portions of vehicle wiring.
The maximum allowable voltage drop under load is critical.
This voltage drop test revealed high resistance (low voltage)
in the circuit
NOTE: Voltage drops should be performed systematically through a circuit. Verify power
portions of the circuit and then the ground portions. These steps outline performing
voltage drop tests on the wiring that provides power to loads, not the loads themselves.
1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20V position
2. Connect the negative lead of the multi-meter to the most negative portion of the
circuit (closest to the load) of the portion of the circuit to be tested
3. Connect the positive lead of the multi-meter to the most positive portion of the
circuit (closest to the power source) of the portion of the circuit to be tested
4. Operate the circuit and check the voltage displayed on the meter
The voltage displayed is the voltage consumed through that portion of the
circuit
There should be little or no voltage drop in the circuit before or after the
load in the circuit
If a voltage drop exists, the wiring or connectors in the circuit are suspect.
Diagnose and repair any cause of excessive resistance
5. Repeat the test for section of wire in the circuit
Resistance
Checking the resistance of a coolant temperature sensor
with an ohmmeter. Reading is 1.04 kilohms
WARNING
Never use an ohmmeter with power applied to the circuit. The ohmmeter is designed to
operate on its own power supply. The normal 12V electrical system voltage could
damage the meter!
CAUTION
Ensure that the ignition key is OFF when disconnecting any components or the battery.
The voltage spike and current that can flow though a circuit when a component or he
battery is disconnected can damage sensitive electronic components, switch contacts
and terminals.
1. Isolate the circuit from the vehicle's power source
Where necessary, also isolate at least one side of the circuit to be
checked, in order to avoid reading parallel resistance. Parallel circuit
resistance will always give a lower reading than the actual resistance of
either of the branches
2. Set the range selector to the proper scale for the circuit being
If the resistance of the circuit is not known, start at a higher scale and
incrementally scale down the meter to obtain the most accurate value
3. Connect the meter leads to both sides of the circuit (wire or component)
The value, displayed in Ohms, represents the resistance of that portion of
the circuit.
Chassis Electrical
Wire and Connector Repair
Almost anyone can replace damaged wires, as long as the proper tools and parts are
available. Wire and terminals are available to fit almost any need. Even the specialized
weatherproof, molded and hard shell connectors are now available from aftermarket
suppliers.
Be sure the ends of all the wires are fitted with the proper terminal hardware and
connectors. Wrapping a wire around a stud is never a permanent solution and will only
cause trouble later. Replace wires one-at-a-time to avoid confusion. Always route wires
exactly the same as the factory.
NOTE: If connector repair is necessary, only attempt it if you have the proper tools.
Weatherproof and hard shell connectors require special tools to release the terminal pins
inside the connector. Attempting to repair these connectors with conventional hand tools
will cause damage.
Battery Cables
Disconnecting The Cables
Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position. This will
prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity trying to ground itself
to the body of a vehicle, just like a spark plug jumping the gap) and damaging
components such as the alternator diodes.
When working on any electrical component in the vehicle, it is always a good idea to
disconnect the negative battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to many
sensitive electrical components such as the Engine Control Module (ECM), radio and
alternator.
Disconnecting the negative battery cable first will also prevent accidentally grounding the
positive terminal to the body of the vehicle when disconnecting the battery creating a
short to ground.
Reconnect battery cables by installing the positive cable first. Then connect the negative
cable. This will reduce the possibility for voltage spike to occur that can affect the
operation of sensitive electronic components. Be sure to check that your lights,
windshield wipers and other electrically operated safety components are working
correctly. If your vehicle contains an electronically tuned radio dont forget to also reset
your radio stations and clock.
Circuit Protection
Entertainment Systems
Radio
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Obtain the radio station presets before attempting to remove the radio, if
applicable.
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Move the shift lever to the lowest position.
4. Move the steering wheel to the lowest position.
5. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
6. Remove the instrument panel trim plate bezel by pulling it out carefully to release
the retaining clips.
7. Remove the radio from the instrument panel.
On early models press down on the retainers to remove the radio.
On later models remove the mounting screws.
8. Slide the radio out of instrument panel pocket. Disconnect the wiring harness and
antenna cable connectors.
To Install:
1. Position the radio to the instrument panel. Connect the wiring harness and
antenna cable connector.
2. Guide the radio locator tabs onto the instrument panel locator pins.
On early models the radio will lock into place when it is fully seated.
To Install:
1. Connect the harness electrical connector and coaxial cable to the receiver.
2. Position the receiver and bracket assembly in the I/P.
3. Install the two mounting screws through the junction block opening.
Tighten to 14 in lb (1.6 Nm).
4. Close the glove box door.
5. Attach the wire harness block to the fuse block and tighten the mounting bolt.
6. Install the right (IP) end panel.
Base Amplifier
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1. Position the amplifier to the floor console lower bracket.
2. Install the amplifier mounting screws.
Tighten to 30 lb in (3.4 Nm).
3. Position the floor console to the IP.
4. Connect the floor console electrical connector.
5. Position the upper console bracket to the lower console bracket. Install the
mounting screws.
6. Install the console to I/P mounting bolts.
Tighten to 35 lb in (4 Nm).
7. Install both front console side panel trim screws.
Tighten to 18 lb in (2 Nm).
8. Move both front seats to the forward position.
9. Install both rear console side panel trim screws.
Tighten to 18 lb in (2 Nm).
10. Reposition the inboard seat track trim.
11. Connect the amplifier electrical connectors.
12. Connect the floor console electrical connector.
13. Install the center console end panel.
14. Install the console storage bin.
15. Install the console cupholder.
16. Install the console bezel.
17. Install the radio amp fuse.
18. If the amplifier was replaced, perform the audio amplifier set up procedure.
To Install:
1. Connect the CD player electrical connector.
2. Carefully insert the CD player into the console until fully seated and the retainers
lock in place.
3. Install the trim bezel with the mounting screws.
Tighten to 18 lb in (2 Nm).
4. If equipped with a luxury console use the following procedure:
Open the ashtray and cupholder lid.
Partially install the bezel.
Connect the bezel electrical connectors.
Install the lower bezel to the console.
Push on the corners until the fasteners are locked in place.
Align the locating pins on the upper bezel and press in on the bezel until
the fasteners are seated.
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Washer pump
Washer hose
Electrical connector
Front wheel well splash shield with the screws.
A. Tighten to: 13 in lbs (1.5 Nm)
Front left wheel
Negative battery cable
Headlight Switch
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
Instrument Cluster Bezel removal
The switch
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
The electrical connectors
The headlamp switch by snapping the headlamps switch into place
The bezel to the instrument panel
2. Operate the headlights to check performance
The wire harness assembly (A) from the wire harness strap (B)
The turn signal and multifunction switch assembly connector from the SIR
system coil connector
A. Slide the 2 connectors (B) of the turn signal and multifunction
switch assembly out of the bulkhead connector (A)
The 2 pan head tapping screws (A) and (C) from the turn signal and
multifunction switch assembly (B)
The turn signal and multifunction switch assembly (B) from the steering
column tilt head assembly
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
The turn signal and multifunction switch assembly (B) onto the steering
column tilt head assembly
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Note.
NOTE: Be sure that the electrical contact of the turn signal and
multifunction switch assembly (B) rests on the turn signal cancel cam
assembly.
Screw the 2 pan head tapping screws (A) and (C) into the turn signal and
multifunction assembly (B)
Tighten the top pan head tapping screw (A)
A. Tighten to: 27 inch lbs (3 Nm)
Tighten the side pan head tapping screw (C)
Lighting
Headlights
Removal & Installation
Old Style
To Remove:
Old style headlight assembly
New Style
New style headlight assembly
To Remove:
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Upper grille cover
Headlight retainer pins
Headlight assembly
Electrical connectors
Headlamp bulb
Headlamp seal (GMC diesel)
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Headlamp seal (GMC diesel)
Headlight bulb
Electrical connectors
Headlight assembly
Headlight assembly retainer pins
Upper grille cover
NOTE: Although marking all four positions is advisable, marking one position
from each light should be sufficient.
Low-beam headlight pattern alignment
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Fog Lights
Removal & Installation
Except Z71
To Remove:
Fog light
Z71
To Remove:
Z71 Fog/Driving light removal
To Remove:
Fog light
Dome Lamp
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
Remove dome lamp lens
10. Locate the power terminal on the relay, and connect a wire with an in-line fuse of
at least 10 amperes between the terminal and the battery
11. With all the wires connected and secured, connect the negative battery cable
12. Turn the lights ON and adjust the light pattern, as required
Aiming
1. Park the vehicle on level ground, so it is perpendicular to and, facing a flat wall
about 25 ft. (7.6m) away
2. Remove any stone shields, if equipped, and switch ON the lights
3. Loosen the mounting hardware of the lights so you can aim them as follows:
The horizontal distance between the light beams on the wall should be
the same as between the lights themselves
The vertical height of the light beams above the ground should be 4 in.
(10cm) less than the distance between the ground and the center of the
lamp lenses for fog lights. For driving lights, the vertical height should be
even with the distance between the ground and the center of the lamp
4. Tighten the mounting hardware
5. Test to make sure the lights work correctly, and the light pattern is even
6. Trailer Wiring
7. Wiring a vehicle for towing is fairly easy. There are a number of good wiring kits
available and these should be used rather than trying to design your own.
8. All trailers need brake lights and turn signals. They also require taillights and
side-marker lights. Most states require extra marker lights for oversized trailers.
Also, most states have recently required back-up lights for trailers. Most trailer
manufacturers have been building trailers with back-up lights for several years.
9. Additionally, some Class I, most Class II and just about all Class III and IV are
equipped with electric brakes. Add any wiring to power any accessories and to
operate trailer internal equipment or to charge the trailer's battery, and there can
be as many as seven wires in the harness.
10. Determine the equipment on your trailer and buy the wiring kit required for your
application. The kit will contain all the wires needed, plus a plug adapter set that
includes the female plug (mounted on the bumper or hitch) and the male plug
(wired into, or plugged into the trailer harness).
11. When installing the kit, follow the manufacturer's instructions. The color coding of
the wires is usually standard throughout the industry. One point to note: some
domestic vehicles, and most imported vehicles, have separate turn signals. On
most domestic vehicles, the brake lights and rear turn signals operate with the
same bulb. For those vehicles without separate turn signals, you can purchase
an isolation unit so that the brake lights won't blink whenever the turn signals are
operated.
12. One, final point, the best kits are those with a spring loaded cover on the vehicle
mounted socket. This cover prevents dirt and moisture from corroding the
terminals. Never let the vehicle socket hang loosely; always mount it securely to
the bumper or hitch.
13. NOTE: To protect the trailer plug terminals from corrosion, coat them with silicon
dielectric grease. This grease promotes good electrical connection and places a
water barrier on the terminals.
Doors
Door Lock Actuator
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Raise the window glass.
2. If equipped, remove the switch panel using the following procedure:
Pry into the slots of the switch assembly with a flat trim removal tool.
Remove the switch assembly harness electrical connector.
3. Remove the outside mirror mounting bolt trim cover by pulling the front edge out.
4. If equipped, remove the window crank handle by using a retaining clip removal
tool.
5. Remove the door handle bezel by inserting a flat trim removal tool between the
door panel and handle bezel to release the locking tabs.
6. Remove all door panel electrical connectors .
7. Remove the door panel push pins and trim screws. Lift the door panel up and out
to release the door panel locking tabs.
8. Remove the water shield.
9. Remove the rubber plug and disengage the outside handle rod retainer.
10. Disconnect the cylinder lock rod.
11. Remove the door lock actuator mounting bolts from the door panel.
12. Remove the door lock actuator and control rod assembly.
13. Disconnect the door lock actuator electrical connector.
14. Remove the control rods.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
7. Hold the motor and housing together and remove the remaining motor to housing
mounting bolt.
8. Slide the motor partially out of the gear/spool. Hold the gear/spool into the
housing and remove the motor.
To Install:
1. Position the regulator motor on the housing.
2. Align the gear teeth and housing mounting holes while pushing the motor into the
gear/spool.
3. Install the motor to housing mounting bolt first.
4. Slide the motor and housing assembly onto the rail and install the remaining 2
mounting bolts.
Tighten to 44 lb in (5 Nm).
5. Position the window regulator on the door panel. Install the regulator mounting
bolts using Permatex threadlocker 24200 or equivalent.
Tighten to 80 lb in (9 Nm).
6. Install the window glass to the regulator. Install the mounting bolts.
Tighten to 80 lb in (9 Nm).
7. Connect the window motor harness connector.
8. Install or connect:
Water deflector
Electrical connectors
Door panel
Door switch panel, if equipped
Manual door-lock lever
Upper trim panel extension
7. NOTE: Do not allow the cable gear come out of the housing. If the cable comes
off the spool the regulator will not operate.
8. Separate the regulator motor from the cable housing by using a rocking motion
on the window motor.
9. Mark the window motor for reassembly.
10. Remove the motor from the window regulator assembly.
To Install:
1. Install the motor to the cable housing by using a rocking motion.
2. Install the 3 window motor mounting bolts.
Tighten to 44 lb in (5 Nm).
3. Install the window, if removed.
4. Connect the window regulator motor wiring harness.
5. Remove the window support.
6. Install or connect the following:
If equipped, the speaker.
Water deflector.
Electrical connectors
Door panel.
Door switch panel, if equipped
Manual door-lock lever.
Upper trim panel extension
DRIVE TRAIN
Automatic Transaxle
Understanding the Automatic Transmission
The automatic transmission allows engine torque and power to be transmitted to the rear
wheels within a narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will allow the engine to turn
fast enough to produce plenty of power and torque at very low speeds, while keeping it
at a sensible rpm at high vehicle speeds (and it does this job without driver assistance).
The transmission uses a light fluid as the medium for the transmission of power. This
fluid also works in the operation of various hydraulic control circuits and as a lubricant.
Because the transmission fluid performs all of these functions, trouble within the unit can
easily travel from one part to another. For this reason, and because of the complexity
and unusual operating principles of the transmission, a very sound understanding of the
basic principles of operation will simplify troubleshooting.
Torque Converter
The torque converter replaces the conventional clutch. It has three functions:
1. It allows the engine to idle with the vehicle at a standstill, even with the
transmission in gear.
2. It allows the transmission to shift from range-to-range smoothly, without requiring
that the driver close the throttle during the shift.
3. It multiplies engine torque to an increasing extent as vehicle speed drops and
throttle opening is increased. This has the effect of making the transmission more
responsive and reduces the amount of shifting required.
The torque converter is a metal case which is shaped like a sphere that has been
flattened on opposite sides. It is bolted to the rear end of the engine's crankshaft.
Generally, the entire metal case rotates at engine speed and serves as the engine's
flywheel.
The case contains three sets of blades. One set is attached directly to the case. This set
forms the impeller or pump. Another set is directly connected to the output shaft, and
forms the turbine. The third set is mounted on a hub which, in turn, is mounted on a
stationary shaft through a one-way clutch. This third set is known as the stator.
A pump, which is driven by the converter hub at engine speed, keeps the torque
converter full of transmission fluid at all times. Fluid flows continuously through the unit
to provide cooling.
Under low speed acceleration, the torque converter functions as follows:
The impeller is turning faster than the turbine. It picks up fluid at the center of the
converter and, through centrifugal force, slings it outward. Since the outer edge of the
converter moves faster than the portions at the center, the fluid picks up speed.
The fluid then enters the outer edge of the turbine blades. It then travels back toward the
center of the converter case along the turbine blades. In impinging upon the turbine
blades, the fluid loses the energy picked up in the impeller.
If the fluid was now returned directly into the impeller, both halves of the converter would
have to turn at approximately the same speed at all times, and torque input and output
would both be the same.
In flowing through the impeller and turbine, the fluid picks up two types of flow, or flow in
two separate directions. It flows through the turbine blades, and it spins with the engine.
The stator, whose blades are stationary when the vehicle is being accelerated at low
speeds, converts one type of flow into another. Instead of allowing the fluid to flow
straight back into the impeller, the stator's curved blades turn the fluid almost 90 toward
the direction of rotation of the engine. Thus the fluid does not flow as fast toward the
impeller, but is already spinning when the impeller picks it up. This has the effect of
allowing the impeller to turn much faster than the turbine. This difference in speed may
be compared to the difference in speed between the smaller and larger gears in any
gear train. The result is that engine power output is higher, and engine torque is
multiplied.
As the speed of the turbine increases, the fluid spins faster and faster in the direction of
engine rotation. As a result, the ability of the stator to redirect the fluid flow is reduced.
Under cruising conditions, the stator is eventually forced to rotate on its one-way clutch
in the direction of engine rotation. Under these conditions, the torque converter begins to
behave almost like a solid shaft, with the impeller and turbine speeds being almost
equal.
Planetary Gearbox
The ability of the torque converter to multiply engine torque is limited. Also, the unit tends
to be more efficient when the turbine is rotating at relatively high speeds. Therefore, a
planetary gearbox is used to carry the power output of the turbine to the driveshaft.
Planetary gears work in a similar fashion to manual
transmission gears, but are composed of three parts
Most automatics use the planetary gears to provide various reductions ratios. Bands and
clutches are used to hold various portions of the gear sets to the transmission case or to
the shaft on which they are mounted. Shifting is accomplished, then, by changing the
portion of each planetary gear set which is held to the transmission case or to the shaft.
Servos/Accumulators
The servos are hydraulic pistons and cylinders. They resemble the hydraulic actuators
used on many other machines, such as bulldozers. Hydraulic fluid enters the cylinder,
under pressure, and forces the piston to move to engage the band or clutches.
Servos, operated by pressure, are used to apply or release
the bands, to either hold the ring gear or allow it to rotate
The accumulators are used to cushion the engagement of the servos. The transmission
fluid must pass through the accumulator on the way to the servo. The accumulator
housing contains a thin piston, which is sprung away from the discharge passage of the
accumulator. When fluid passes through the accumulator on the way to the servo, it
must move the piston against spring pressure, and this action smoothes out the action of
the servo.
Transmission Assembly
Removal & Installation
4L60E/4L65E
To Remove:
1. Remove or disconnect the following:
Transmission fluid
Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
Rear propeller shaft.
2. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Starter motor.
Transfer case, if equipped.
4. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
5. Remove the transmission mount nuts.
6. Remove the transmission crossmember.
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
Torque converter access plug
4L60E/4L65E removal
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque
converter.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
2. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
3. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on
the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto
the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
4. Install or connect the following:
Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten
the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud
and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm
(63 ft. lbs.).
Torque converter access plug.
Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the
transmission.
Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to
17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission.
Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft.
lbs. (95 Nm).
5. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
6. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
7. Install or connect the following:
Starter
Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
The rear propeller shaft
The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
8. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
9. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
10. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
11. Lower the vehicle.
4L80E/4L85E
To Remove:
1. Remove or disconnect the following:
Transmission fluid
Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
8. Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
9. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the
transmission.
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque
converter
2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
3. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
4. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on
the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto
the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
5. Install or connect the following:
Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten
the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the
engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft.
lbs.).
The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten
the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission.
Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the
transmission.
The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the
bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the
transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine
bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
6. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
7. Install or connect the following:
Starter motor
8. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
10. Install or connect the following:
The transfer case
The rear propeller shaft
The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
11. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
12. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
13. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
14. Lower the vehicle.
Transmission Fluid
Fluid Level Checking
Pre-Check Procedure
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and start the engine.
2. Apply the parking brake and make sure the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through each gear range,
pausing for about 3 seconds in each range. Then, return the shift lever back to
PARK (P).
4. Allow the engine to idle 500-800 RPM for at least 1 minute. Slowly release the
brake pedal.
5. Keep the engine running and observe the transmission fluid temperature (TFT)
using the Driver Information Center (DIC) or a scan tool.
6. Using the TFT reading, determine and perform the appropriate check procedure.
If the TFT reading is not within the required temperature ranges, allow the vehicle
to cool, or operate the vehicle until the appropriate TFT is reached.
Cold Check Procedure
CAUTION
Use the cold check procedure only as a reference to determine if the transmission has
enough fluid to be operated safely until the hot check procedure can be made.
NOTE: Use this cold check procedure to check fluid level when the fluid temperature is
between 80-90F (27-32C).
Start the engine and remove the dipstick from the tube, then wipe the dipstick end with a
clean rag or paper towel. Install the dipstick completely in the dipstick tube, wait three
seconds and then pull it back out again.
CAUTION
Always check the fluid level at least twice. Consistent readings are important to
maintaining proper fluid level. If inconsistent readings are noted, inspect the transmission
vent assembly to ensure it is clean and unclogged.
Keep the dipstick pointing down and check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading. If the fluid level is below the
COLD check line, add only enough fluid as necessary to bring the level into the COLD
line. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint. Do not overfill. If the fluid
level is in the acceptable range, install the dipstick in the tube and flip the handle down to
lock it in place. Perform the hot check when the transmission reaches a normal operating
temperature between 180-200F (82-93C).
NOTE: If the PNP switch did not slide off the manual shaft, file the outer edge of the
manual shaft in order to remove any burrs.
To Install:
1. Install the PNP switch on the manual shaft by aligning the flats in the switch with
the flat surfaces on the manual shaft.
2. Slide the switch on the manual shaft until the switch contacts the mounting
bosses on the transmission.
NOTE: New switches will come with a positive assurance bracket. The positive
assurance bracket aligns the new switch in its proper position for installation and
the use of the park neutral switch aligner will not be necessary.
4. onto the PNP switch. Make sure the two slots on the switch where the manual
shaft is inserted are lined up with the lower two tabs on the tool.
5. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up with the slot on
the top of the switch.
Tighten the bolts to 18 lb ft (25 Nm).
6. or positive assurance bracket from the switch.
7. Install the control lever on the manual shaft.
Tighten the nut to 18 lb ft (25 Nm).
8. Connect the electrical connector to the PNP switch.
9. Install the front propeller shaft of equipped.
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Check the switch for proper operation. The engine must start in the park or
neutral positions only.
Adjustment
To Adjust:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
To Install:
1. Install a new case extension O-ring seal.
2. Install the case extension and mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 33 lb ft (45 Nm).
3. Install the transmission mount.
4. Remove the drain pan and the transmission jack.
5. Install the front propeller shaft.
6. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON III transmission fluid.
4L80E/4L85E
To Remove:
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Place a drain pan under the transmission oil pan. Drain the transmission fluid and
install the plug.
Tighten the drain plug to 13 lb ft (18 Nm).
3. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
4. Remove the transmission crossmember.
5. Disconnect the range selector cable end from the transmission range selector
lever ball stud.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the selector cable from the bracket.
6. Remove the transmission range selector cable bracket. Reposition the bracket
and cable.
7. Remove the oil pan bolts.
NOTE: The transmission oil pan gasket is reusable. Replace as needed.
8. Remove the oil pan and gasket.
9. Remove the magnet from the bottom of the pan, if necessary.
10. Remove the oil filter and neck seal.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Clean the transmission and the oil pan sealing surfaces with solvent.
Install the filter neck seal and filter.
Install the oil pan gasket to the pan.
Install the magnet into the bottom of the pan, if necessary.
Install the oil pan and bolts.
Tighten the oil pan bolts to 18 lb ft (24 Nm).
6. Install the transmission range selector cable bracket.
Tighten the bolts to 18 lb ft (25 Nm).
7. Connect the range selector cable end to the transmission range selector lever
ball stud.
8. Install the transmission crossmember.
Tighten the fasteners to 70 lb ft (95 Nm).
9. Install the transmission mount nuts.
Tighten the nuts to 30 lb ft (40 Nm).
10. Remove the transmission jack.
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON III transmission fluid.
Manual Transmission
Understanding the Manual Transmission
Because of the way an internal combustion engine breathes, it can produce torque (or
twisting force) only within a narrow speed range. Most overhead valve pushrod engines
must turn at about 2500 rpm to produce their peak torque. Often by 4500 rpm, they are
producing so little torque that continued increases in engine speed produce no power
increases.
The torque peak on overhead camshaft engines is, generally, much higher, but much
narrower.
The manual transmission and clutch are employed to vary the relationship between
engine RPM and the speed of the wheels so that adequate power can be produced
under all circumstances. The clutch allows engine torque to be applied to the
transmission input shaft gradually, due to mechanical slippage. The vehicle can,
consequently, be started smoothly from a full stop.
The transmission changes the ratio between the rotating speeds of the engine and the
wheels by the use of gears. 4-speed or 5-speed transmissions are most common. The
lower gears allow full engine power to be applied to the rear wheels during acceleration
at low speeds.
The clutch driveplate is a thin disc, the center of which is splined to the transmission
input shaft. Both sides of the disc are covered with a layer of material which is similar to
brake lining and which is capable of allowing slippage without roughness or excessive
noise.
The clutch cover is bolted to the engine flywheel and incorporates a diaphragm spring,
which provides the pressure to engage the clutch. The cover also houses the pressure
plate. When the clutch pedal is released, the driven disc is sandwiched between the
pressure plate and the smooth surface of the flywheel, thus forcing the disc to turn at the
same speed as the engine crankshaft.
The transmission contains a mainshaft, which passes all the way through the
transmission, from the clutch to the driveshaft. This shaft is separated at one point, so
that front and rear portions can turn at different speeds.
Power is transmitted by a countershaft in the lower gears and reverse. The gears of the
countershaft mesh with gears on the mainshaft, allowing power to be carried from one to
the other. Countershaft gears are often integral with that shaft, while several of the
mainshaft gears can either rotate independently of the shaft or be locked to it. Shifting
from one gear to the next causes one of the gears to be freed from rotating with the shaft
and locks another to it. Gears are locked and unlocked by internal dog clutches, which
slide between the center of the gear and the shaft. The forward gears usually employ
synchronizers; friction members, which smoothly bring gear and shaft to the same speed
before the toothed dog clutches are engaged.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Bolt securing the left side support brace to the transmission if equipped
with a transfer case
Bolt and stud securing the left side support brace to the transfer case if
equipped with a transfer case
Bolt securing the right side support brace to the transmission if equipped
with a transfer case
Bolt securing the right side support brace to the transfer case if equipped
with a transfer case
Using tool J42371 or other suitable tool, push back on the white plastic sleeve on
the quick connect in order to separate the hydraulic clutch line from the
concentric slave cylinder quick connect
Disconnect the wiring harness and connector from the vehicle speed sensor,
backup lamp switch, and transmission harness retainers
Support the transmission with a transmission jack
Remove or disconnect the following:
Two bolts securing the clutch housing cover if equipped with a 4.3L
engine
Transmission rear mount
The bolts securing the bottom right side of the transmission to the engine
The stud securing the right side of the transmission to the engine
The bolt and six studs securing the transmission to the engine
7. Pull the transmission straight back on the clutch hub splines
NOTE: Do not let the transmission hang from the clutch plate and the clutch
cover.
8. Remove or disconnect the following:
Transmission from the vehicle
Clutch plate and the clutch cover from the engine flywheel if required
To install:
1. Install or connect the following:
2. Clutch plate and the clutch cover to the engine flywheel if removed
NOTE: Make sure the transmission is positioned in the 3rd or 4th speed gear
3. Rotate the transmission clockwise onto the clutch hub splines.
4. Install or connect the following:
Install the bolt and the studs securing the transmission to the engine and
tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
The stud securing the right side of the transmission to the engine and
tighten the stud
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
The bolts securing the bottom right side of the transmission to the engine
and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Clutch housing cover using the two bolts and tighten the bolts if equipped
with a 4.3L engine
A. Torque to: 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm)
The transmission rear mount
Clutch line to the concentric slave cylinder
Bolt securing the right side support brace to the transmission and tighten
the bolts if equipped with a transfer case
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Bolt securing the right side support brace to the transfer case and tighten
the bolts if equipped with a transfer case
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Bolt and stud securing the left side support brace to the transfer case and
tighten the bolts if equipped with a transfer case
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Bolt securing the left side support brace to the transmission and tighten
the bolts if equipped with a transfer case
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Manual transfer case shift linkage if equipped with a manual transfer case
Two transfer case shields if equipped
Front driveshaft if equipped with a transfer case
The rear drive shaft (See: Drive Shaft)
The shift tower
5. Fill the transmission with transmission fluid
6. Install the shift lever
7. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
NV4500
To Remove:
1. Shift the transmission into 3rd or 4th speed gear
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
The shift lever
The shift tower
The transmission oil
Front driveshaft if equipped with a transfer case
The rear drive shaft (See: Drive Shaft)
The two transfer case shields
Manual transfer case shift linkage if equipped with a manual transfer case
The two bolts securing the right side support bracket to the transmission
3. Using tool J42371, push back on the white plastic sleeve on the quick connect in
order to separate the hydraulic clutch line from the concentric slave cylinder quick
connect
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
The wiring harness and connector from the vehicle speed sensor, backup
lamp switch, and transmission harness retainers
NV4500
The four bolts securing the clutch housing cover to the transmission
The bolt securing the left side transmission to engine cover
The bolt securing the right side transmission to engine cover
Rear seal using J 6125-B (A) and 123129 (B) or other suitable seal
removal tools
To Install:
NV3500 rear oil seal installation
2. If required, use J 8614-01 or other suitable tool in order to keep the yoke from
rotating and tighten the main shaft nut
Torque to: 325 ft. lbs. (441 Nm)
3.
4.
5.
6.
Shift Lever
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
NOTE: Make sure that the control levers positioned into the mechanical third or fourth
gear prior to removal of the shift lever from the transmission. The transmission must
remain in this state when the shift lever is removed. Do not disassemble the
transmission shift lever. Internal parts for this shift lever are not available. Opening the
shift lever voids the warranty. When removing the shift lever from the transmission, use
the exposed bolts on the base of the lever.
2. With a flat bladed tool, pull back the insulator between the body and transmission
to access the shift tower bolts on the ZF S6-650 transmission only
Clutch
Understanding the Clutch
The clutch is a thin disc, the center of which is splined to the transmission input (main)
shaft. Both sides of the disc are covered with a layer of material which is similar to brake
lining and which is capable of allowing slippage without roughness or excessive noise.
The clutch pressure plate is bolted to the engine flywheel and incorporates a diaphragm
spring, which provides the pressure to engage the clutch. The clutch disc is sandwiched
between the pressure plate and flywheel. When the clutch pedal is released, the clutch
disc is pressed against the smooth surface of the flywheel, thus forcing the clutch disc to
turn at the same speed as the engine crankshaft.
The transmission contains a mainshaft, which passes all the way through the
transmission, from the clutch to the driveshaft. This shaft is separated at one point, so
that front and rear portions can turn at different speeds.
CAUTION
The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer
causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling dust
from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available
brake cleaning fluid.
3.
4.
5.
6.
flywheel, identified by an "X". Tighten the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel
bolts
Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Remove the clutch alignment tool
Install or connect the following:
Manual Transmission (See: Manual Transmission)
Quick disconnect to the concentric slave cylinder
Bleed the clutch hydraulic system if necessary
Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
3500 and 4500 Clutch slave cylinder to master cylinder line disconnect
2. Rotate the clutch master cylinder 45 degrees clockwise to the unlocked position
3500 and 4500 clutch master cylinder removal
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Clutch master cylinder
Master cylinder by pushing in and rotating the clutch master cylinder 45
degrees counterclockwise to the locked position
Clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder quick connect fitting
Clutch master cylinder clip to the brake pressure module valve pipe
2. Apply light pressure to the clutch pedal to couple the pushrod socket to the clutch
pedal while connecting the clutch pedal position switch electrical connector
3. Pump the clutch pedal a few times before starting the vehicle to be sure
connection is complete
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Hydraulic System
Bleeding
NOTE: Bleeding air from the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever any part of
the system has been disconnected or the fluid level (in the reservoir) has been allowed
to fall so low, that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.
Fill master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3
specifications
Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder
screw
Close the bleeder screw and have your assistant release the clutch pedal
Repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system
Check and refill master cylinder reservoir as required to prevent air from being
drawn through the master cylinder
NOTE: Never release a depressed clutch pedal with the bleeder screw open or
air will be drawn into the system.
Slave Cylinder
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Remove or disconnect the following:
Manual transmission (See: Manual Transmission)
Clutch slave cylinder removal
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Clutch slave cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder bolts and tighten the clutch slave cylinder bolts
A. Torque to: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm)
Manual transmission (See: Manual Transmission)
2. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
8. If equipped with the double clamp style boot, crimp the clamp until the
dimensions shown in the illustration are obtained.
9. Install the transfer case shield, if equipped.
10. Lower the vehicle.
Front driveshaft boot clamp installation
Rear Driveshaft
One-Piece Driveshaft
To Remove:
NOTE: To preserve balance and reduce vibration, accurately reference mark all driveline
components relative to the propeller shaft and axles before disassembly. These
components include the propeller shafts, the drive axles, the pinion flanges, the output
shafts, etc. All components must be reassembled in the original locations.
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the rear pinion yoke.
3. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the transmission or transfer case if
equipped.
4. Remove the yoke retainers from the rear pinion yoke.
CAUTION
Do not attempt to remove the shaft from the yoke by pounding on the yoke ears
or using a tool between the yoke and the universal joint. Damage to the universal
joint may occur.
5. Slide the propeller shaft forward to remove it from the rear pinion yoke.
6. Slide the propeller shaft rearward in order to disconnect the propeller shaft from
the transmission or transfer case.
7. Remove the propeller shaft from the vehicle.
To Install:
1. Lubricate the shaft splines with grease, GM P/N 12345879 (Canadian P/N
10953511), or equivalent lubricant meeting GM Specification 9985830.
2. Install the propeller shaft into the transmission or transfer case. Align the
reference marks made during removal.
3. Align the reference marks made during removal and install the propeller shaft to
the rear pinion yoke.
4. Install the yoke retainers.
Tighten the bolts to 19 lb ft (25 Nm).
5. Lower the vehicle.
Two-Piece Driveshaft
To Remove:
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange and the slip yoke to the
transmission or transfer case.
3. Remove the bolts and yoke retainers from the rear axle pinion flange.
4. Remove the clamps securing the boot to the slip yoke and the stub shaft.
5. Slide the drive shaft forward to remove it from the rear axle pinion flange.
6. Slide the drive shaft rearward to remove it from the transmission or transfer case.
7. Remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
8. Remove the boot.
9. Remove the center bearing support nuts and support.
10. Remove the drive shaft from the transmission or transfer case.
11. Clean all parts with solvent.
12. Inspect the outer diameter of the slip yoke for burrs that may damage
transmission seal.
13. Inspect the universal joint bearings for wear and replace as needed.
To Install:
1. Lubricate the slip joint splines.
2. Install the drive shaft into the transmission or transfer case.
3. Install the center bearing support.
Tighten the nuts to 30 lb ft (40 Nm).
4. Install the boot on the stub shaft. Lubricate the stub shaft.
5. Install the stub shaft onto the slip yoke.
6. Mate the missing tooth in the yoke with the bridged tooth on the shaft.
7. Align the reference marks made during removal. Install the drive shaft to the rear
axle pinion flange.
Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 19 lb ft (25 Nm).
8. Install the clamps onto the stub shaft and the slip yoke boot.
9. Lower the vehicle.
Universal Joint
Removal & Installation
NOTE: Never clamp drive shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube
causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and
support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may
damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.
Snapring Type
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
To Install:
1. If re-using the universal joint, repack the bearings with grease and replace the
trunnion dust seals after any operation that requires disassembly of the U-joint.
But be sure that the lubricant reservoir at the end of the trunnion is full of
lubricant. Fill the reservoirs with lubricant from the bottom.
2. Install the trunnion into the driveshaft yoke and press the bearings into the yoke
over the trunnion hubs as far as it will go.
3. Install the lockrings.
4. Hold the trunnion in one hand and tap the yoke slightly to seat the bearings
against the lockrings.
5. On the rear driveshafts, install the sleeve yoke over the trunnion hubs and install
the bearings in the same manner as above.
Pinion Seal
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
Measuring the pinion rotating torque
Scribed marks
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Rear Axle
Axle Housing Assembly
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Wheel and tire assemblies
Axle lubricant into a suitable container
Rear driveshaft
Parking brake cable
Brake calipers
Shock absorbers from the axle brackets
Vent hose from the rear axle vent fitting
Nuts and the washers from the U-bolts
U-bolts, spring plates and spacers from the axle assembly
3. Lower the axle assembly from the vehicle
To Install:
1. Place the rear axle assembly under the vehicle
2. Align the rear axle assembly with the springs then connect the spacers, spring
plates and the U-bolts to the rear axle
3. Raise the rear axle assembly into position
4. Install or connect the following:
Washers and nuts to the U-bolts; Torque to: 59 lb-ft. (80 Nm) then,
Torque to: 89 lb-ft. (120 Nm)
Vent hose to the rear axle vent fitting
Shock absorbers to the rear axle
Brake calipers (See: Brake Caliper)
Parking brake cable (See: Parking Brake Cable)
Rear driveshaft (See: Rear Driveshaft)
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
To Remove:
Remove the differential pinion shaft lock screw
Remove the C-lock from the inner (button) end of the shaft
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel and tire assembly but do not remove the
lug nuts
3. Raise and support the vehicle
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
Wheel and tire assembly
Brake drums (See: Brake Drum)
Differential cover
5. Turn the differential until you can reach the differential pinion shaft lock screw
6. Remove the lock screw and the pinion shaft
7. Push in on the axle end
8. Remove the C-Clip from the inner (button) end of the shaft
9. Remove the shaft being careful of the oil seal
NOTE: You can pry the oil seal out of the housing by placing the inner end of the axle
shaft behind the steel case of the seal, then prying it out carefully. A puller or a slide
hammer is required to remove the bearing from the housing.
To Install:
1. Pack the new or existing bearing with wheel bearing grease then lubricate the
cavity between the seal lips with the same grease
NOTE: The bearing has to be driven into the housing.
NOTE: Do not use a drift as you might cock the bearing in its bore. Use a piece
of pipe or a large socket instead. Drive only on the outer bearing race. In a similar
manner drive the seal in flush with the end of the tube.
2. Slide the shaft into place turning it slowly until the splines are engaged with the
differential being careful of the oil seal
3. Install the C-Clip on the inner axle end
4. Pull the shaft out so that the C-Clip seats in the counter bore of the differential
side gear
5. Position the differential pinion shaft through the case and the pinion gears
aligning the lock screw hole
6. Install the lock screw
7. Install the cover with a new gasket then tighten the bolts evenly in a crisscross
pattern
8. Fill the axle with lubricant
9. Install the brake drums (See: Brake Drum)
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
5. Rotate the differential case so that you can remove the lock screw then support
the pinion shaft so it can't fall into the housing
6. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock screw
7. Carefully pull the pinion shaft partway out then rotate the differential case until
the shaft touches the housing at the top
8. Use a screwdriver to position the C-Clip with its open end directly inward
NOTE: You cannot push in the axle shaft until you do this.
9. Push the axle shaft in then remove the C-Clip
10. Remove the shaft being careful of the oil seal
NOTE: You can pry the oil seal out of the housing by placing the inner end of the axle
shaft behind the steel case of the seal then prying it out carefully. A puller or a slide
hammer is required to remove the bearing from the housing.
To Install:
1. Pack the new or existing bearing with wheel bearing grease then lubricate the
cavity between the seal lips with the same grease
NOTE: The bearing has to be driven into the housing. Don't use a drift as you
might cock the bearing in its bore. Use a piece of pipe or a large socket instead.
Drive only on the outer bearing race. In a similar manner drive the seal in flush
with the end of the tube.
2. Slide the shaft into place turning it slowly until the splines are engaged with the
differential being careful of the oil seal
3. Keep the pinion shaft partway out of the differential case while installing the CClip on the axle shaft
4. Place the C-Clip on the axle shaft then carefully pull out on the axle shaft until the
C-Clip is clear of the thrust block
5. Position the differential pinion shaft through the case and the pinion gears
aligning the lock screw hole
6. Install the lock screw
7. Install the cover with a new gasket then tighten the bolts evenly in a crisscross
pattern
8. Fill the axle with lubricant
9. Install the brake drums if equipped
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
in its bore, or scoring the hub walls. A local machine shop is probably equipped with the
tools to remove and install bearings and seals. However, if one is not available, the
hammer and drift method outlined can be used.
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel and tire assembly but do not remove the lug
nuts
3. Raise and support the vehicle
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
Wheel and tire assembly
Bolts and lock washers that attach the axle shaft flange to the hub
Exploded view of the axle, hub and drum assembly-full-floating axle, 9 3/4 and 10 1/2 in.
5. Tap on the flange with a soft faced hammer to loosen the shaft
6. Grip the rib on the end of the flange with a pair of locking pliers then twist to start
shaft removal
7. Remove the shaft from the axle tube
NOTE: The hub and drum assembly must be removed to remove the bearings
and oil seals. You will need a large socket to remove and later adjust the bearing
adjustment nut. There are also special tools available.
8. Disengage the tang of the locknut retainer from the slot or slat of the locknut then
remove the locknut from the housing tube
9. Disengage the tang of the retainer from the slot or flat of the adjusting nut then
remove the retainer from the housing tube
10. Remove the adjusting nut from the housing tube
11. Remove the thrust washer from the housing tube
12. Pull the hub and drum straight off the axle housing
13. Remove the oil seal then discard
14. Use a hammer and a long drift to knock the inner bearing, cup, and oil seal from
the hub assembly
15. Remove the outer bearing snap-ring with a pair of pliers
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the bearing outer race away from the retaining
ring slightly by tapping on the ring to remove.
16. Drive the outer bearing from the hub with a hammer and drift
To Install:
1. Place the outer bearing into the hub
NOTE: The larger outside diameter of the bearing should face the outer end of
the hub. Drive the bearing into the hub using a washer that will cover both the
inner and outer races of the bearing. Place a socket on top of this washer then
drive the bearing into place with a series of light taps. If available an arbor press
should be used for this job.
2. Drive the bearing past the snap-ring groove then install the snap-ring
3. Rotate the hub assembly then drive the bearing back against the snap-ring
NOTE: Protect the bearing by placing a washer on top of it. You can use the
thrust washer that fits between the bearing and the adjusting nut for the job.
4. Place the inner bearing into the hub
5. The thick edge should be toward the shoulder in the hub then press the bearing
into the hub until it seats against the shoulder using a washer and socket as
outlined earlier
NOTE: Ensure that the bearing is not cocked and that it is fully seated on the
shoulder.
6. Pack the cavity between the oil seal lips with wheel bearing grease then position
it in the hub bore
7. Carefully press it into place on top of the inner bearing
8. Pack the wheel bearings with grease then lightly coat the inside diameter of the
hub bearing contact surface and the outside diameter of the axle housing tube
9. Ensure that the inner bearing, oil seal, axle housing oil deflector, and outer
bearing are properly positioned
10. Install the hub and drum assembly on the axle housing being careful not to
damage the oil seal or dislocate other internal components
11. Install the thrust washer so that the tang on the inside diameter of the washer is
in the keyway on the axle housing
12. Install the adjusting nut;
Torque to: 50 lb-ft. (68 Nm) while rotating the hub
A. On vehicles with an 11 in. ring gear back off the nut 1/4 turn then
Re-torque to: 35 lb-ft. (47 Nm).
B. On vehicles with a 10-1/2 in. ring gear, Torque to: 13 lb-ft. (17
Nm)
13. Install the tang retainer against the inner adjusting nut
14. Align the adjusting nut so that the short tang of the retainer will engage the
nearest slot on the adjusting nut
15. Install the outer locknut;
Torque to: 65 lb-ft. (88 Nm)
16. Bend the long tang of the retainer into the slot of the outer nut
17. This method of adjustment should provide 0.001 0.010 in. (0.0254 0.254mm)
end-play
18. Place a new gasket over the axle shaft then position the axle shaft in the housing
so that the shaft splines enter the differential side gear
19. Position the gasket so that the holes are in alignment then install the flange-tohub attaching bolts
On models with a 10-1/2 in. ring gear, Torque to: 115 lb-ft. (156 Nm);
On models with an 11 in. ring gear torque the axle cap bolts, Torque to:
15 lb-ft. (20 Nm)
NOTE: To prevent lubricant from leaking through the flange holes apply a nonhardening sealer to the bolt threads. Use the sealer sparingly.
20. Install the wheel and tire assembly
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
Pinion Seal
Removal & Installation
Semi-Floating Axles
To Remove:
NOTE: It would help to have the front end slightly higher than the rear to avoid fluid loss.
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel and tire assemblies but do not remove the
lug nuts
3. Raise and support the vehicle
4. Remove the rear wheel and tire assemblies
5. Match-mark and remove the driveshaft
6. Rotate the rear axles by hand to ensure that there is absolutely no brake drag
and if there is brake drag remove the drums
7. Using a torque wrench on the pinion nut record the force needed to rotate the
pinion
8. Match-mark the pinion shaft, nut and flange and count the number of exposed
threads on the pinion shaft
9. Install a holding tool on the pinion such as a very large adjustable wrench or
install the drums back on then set the parking brake as tightly as possible
10. Remove the pinion nut
11. Slide the flange off of the pinion using a puller as needed
12. Center punch the oil seal to distort it then pry it out of the bore being careful to
avoid scratching the bore
To Install:
1. Pack the cavity between the lips of the seal with lithium-based chassis lube
2. Position the seal in the bore then carefully drive it into place using a seal installer
3. Pack the cavity between the end of the pinion splines and the pinion flange with
silicone sealer or an equivalent non-hardening sealer
4. Place the flange on the pinion then push it on as far as it will go
5. Install the pinion washer and nut on the shaft then force the pinion into place by
turning the nut
WARNING
Never hammer the flange into place.
6. Tighten the nut until the exact number of threads previously noted appear and
the match-marks align
7. Measure the rotating torque of the pinion under the same circumstances as
before
8. Compare the two readings and as needed tighten the pinion nut in very small
increments until the torque necessary to rotate the pinion is 3 lb-in. (0.35 Nm)
higher than the originally recorded torque
4. Install the pinion washer and nut on the shaft then force the pinion into place by
turning the nut
On models with the 11 inch ring gear, Torque the nut to: 440 500 lb-ft.
(596 678 Nm)
On models with the 10 1/2 inch ring gear tighten the nut until the exact
number of threads previously noted appear and the match-marks align
5. Install the driveshaft
6. Lower the vehicle to the ground
7. Road test the vehicle to check performance
Transfer Case
Output Shaft Seal (Front)
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Remove the transfer case shield, if equipped.
3. Remove the front drive shaft.
NOTE: The front output shaft seal is a two piece internal seal. The inner seal
race is a force fit on the front output shaft.
4. Remove the front output shaft seal by inserting a flat-tipped screwdriver behind
the inner race of the seal. Pry the inner seal race forward.
5. Using a small pry bar, move the inner seal race forward on the output shaft.
6. Remove the inner seal race from the front output shaft.
7. Insert a flat-tipped screwdriver or small pry bar into the space between the lip of
the outer race of the seal and the transfer case.
8. Remove the remaining part of the output shaft seal from the transfer case.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or other suitable
equivalent
Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel
bearing grease.
2. Install or connect the following:
Axle shaft in the hub
Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts and tighten the bolts. Torque to: 60 ft.
lbs. (80 Nm)
Upper ball joint to steering knuckle and tighten the stud nut (See: Upper
Ball Joint). Torque to: 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm)
New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball
joint as required
Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame
Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt
Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle and tighten the nut (See: Outer Tie
Rod End). Torque to: 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm)
New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut
Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not
twisted or kinked
Skid plate, as required if equipped
Axle hub washer and nut
Tighten the axle hub nut by inserting a drift through the rotor vanes to
keep the axle from turning and tighten the hub nut. Torque to: 180 ft. lbs.
(245 Nm)
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
Wheel and tire assembly and tighten the lug nuts in sequence. Torque to:
140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)
3. Lower the vehicle
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
The halfshaft is mounted to the flange on the differential and through the hub assembly4-wheel drive models
CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle type, whether
the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the vehicle is being serviced
could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to properly identify the joint before
attempting joint or boot replacement. Look for identification numbers at the large end of
the boots and/or on the end of the metal retainer bands.
The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint (T.J.) and the
Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).
NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or clean and repack
using a new boot kit.
The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should be
checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be installed either too
loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and cracking, allowing the grease to get
out and water and dirt in, leading to early joint failure.
NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease other than that
supplied with the kit.
Double Offset Joint
To Remove:
NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints and, in these
applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.
1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the boot
from the joint outer race.
3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the outer
race (the body of the joint).
4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the splines
in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is to be
replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off of the
shaft at this time.
To Install:
NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots. Fill the inside of the
boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied in the replacement parts kit is
meant to be divided in half, with half being used to lubricate the joint and half being used
inside the boot.
1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage is
installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the inner race to
install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the shaft. Apply the
specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them together. Insert the balls
into the cage.
2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the specified grease.
The outer race should be filled with this grease.
3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
bands is correct.
4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.
Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s) that
will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the halfshaft. Do
not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the shaft so the
boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic damper, if
used, and the boots from the shaft.
To Install:
1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap vinyl
tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and damper, if
used, in the correct order.
2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied in
the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being used to
lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep grease off the rubber
part of the dynamic damper (if used).
4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
distance between boot bands is correct.
5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery cable.
WARNING
To help avoid personal injury, always use jack stands when working on or under any
vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
CAUTION
When jacking or lifting a vehicle at the frame side rails or other prescribed lift points, be
certain that lift pads do not contact the catalytic converter, brake pipes or cables, or fuel
lines. Such contact may result in damage or unsatisfactory vehicle performance.
Suspension
Shock Absorbers
Gas Shock Absorber Precautions
WARNING
Gas charged shock absorbers contain high pressure gas.
Do not remove the snap ring from inside the top of the tube.
If the snap ring is removed, the contents of the shock absorber will come out with
extreme force which may result in personal injury.
WARNING
To prevent personal injury, wear safety glasses when center punching and drilling the
shock absorber. Use care not to puncture the shock absorber tube with the center
punch.
NOTE: Disposal of shock absorbers:
Inspection
Shock absorbers dampen the compression and rebound cycles of the springs. If a
vehicle is not equipped with shock absorbers, the up and down motion would continue
making the vehicle hard to control.
Shock absorbers do not support the ride height of the vehicle. Ride height is controlled
by the springs, and by the diameter of the rim and tire. Worn shock absorbers will affect
handling. If the front of the vehicle is rising or falling excessively, the "footprint" of the
tires change on the pavement and steering is severely affected.
To test the compression and rebound of a shock absorber push down on the vehicle
(over each tire) and release. Observe the motion of the body as it is released. In most
cases, it will come up beyond it original rest position, dip back below and settle quickly to
rest. This shows that the shock absorber is dampening the spring action. Excessive
extension or failure to return to rest within two to three cycles is a sign of poor function.
Oil-filled shock absorbers may have a light film of oil around the seal resulting from
normal breathing and air exchange. This should not be taken as a sign of failure
however any sign of thick or running oil indicates failure. Gas filled shocks may also
show some film at the shaft; if the gas has leaked out, the shock will have almost no
resistance to motion.
When fluid is seeping out of the shock absorber, its time to
replace it
Never replace only one shock absorber. Always replace shocks in pairs -- front or rear-or replace all of the shock absorbers to equal the dampening effect throughout the entire
vehicle.
2. If equipped with selectable ride, disconnect the Real Time Damping (RTD) link
rod from the sensor as follows
Grasp the connector lock tabs
Rotate the connector tabs counter clockwise until the connector is
unlocked
Disengage the connector from the tennon by firmly pulling the connector
up
3. Hold the tennon end with a wrench while removing the nut and remove the nut
4. Support the lower control arm with a jack stand.
To Install:
1. Support the lower control arm with a suitable jack in order to align the tennon with
the mounting hole if equipped with selectable ride
2. Install the shock absorber from below through the lower control arm
3. Insert the tennon through the mounting hole in the upper spring pocket
4. Align the shock absorber with the mounting holes in the lower control arm
5. Install the shock absorber mounting bolts to the lower control arm and tighten the
bolts;
Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
NOTE: The upper insulators are substantially larger that the lower insulators. The
upper insulator must be installed above the shock mounting bracket on the
frame. The plastic pilot ring will assist the alignment of the isolators.
6. Install or connect the following:
Upper insulator to the shock absorber
Nut to the tennon end but do not tighten the nut at this time
RTD link rod to the sensor (if equipped)
7. Remove the safety stands
8. Lower the vehicle
9. Hold the tennon end with a wrench while tightening the nut;
Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
10. Connect the electrical connector using the following procedure:
Verify that the connector is unlocked
Align the connector so that the tabs are perpendicular to the wrench flats
on the tennon end
Engage the connector to the tennon by firmly pushing the connector down
Grasp the connector lock tabs
Rotate the connector counter clockwise
11. The connector is locked into place when you hear an audible snap and the tabs
are aligned
12. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
4WD Front Shock Absorber
To Remove:
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Disconnect the (RTD) link rod from the sensor (if equipped)
3. Disconnect the electrical connector if equipped with selectable ride as follows
Grasp the connector lock tabs
Rotate the connector tabs counter clockwise until the connector is
unlocked
Disengage the connector from the tennon by firmly pulling the connector
up
4. Hold the tennon end with a wrench while removing the nut and remove the nut
Shock absorber
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Coil Springs
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Engine protection shield
Tire and wheel assembly
Shock absorber (See: Shock Absorber)
Front stabilizer shaft link
3. Install tool J23028-15 or other suitable tool using the outboard locating tab
Installing J23028-15 on the 25 Series
To Install:
1. Install the coil spring and the insulator to the lower control arm
2. Raise the transmission jack in order to compress the front coil spring
3. It may be necessary to use a pry bar in order to guide the lower control arm into
position
4. Install or connect the following:
Front pivot bolt
Rear pivot bolt
Lower control arm pivot nuts and tighten the pivot bolt nuts;
A. Torque to: 107 ft. lbs. (145 Nm)
Rear pivot bolt
Lower control arm pivot nuts. Tighten the pivot bolt nuts;
A. Torque to: 107 ft. lbs. (145 Nm)
5. Lower the jack and remove the tool from the control arm
6. Install or connect the following:
Front stabilizer shaft link
Shock absorber
Tire and wheel assembly
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
Leaf Springs
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Support the rear axle independently in order to relieve the tension on the leaf
springs
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Real Time Damping (RTD) sensors (if equipped)
Trailer hitch if equipped
Fuel tank for left side applications
U-bolt nuts and U-bolts
Spring spacer and anchor plate
Rear leaf spring front shackle-
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Spring spacer
U-bolts
Anchor plate
U-bolt nuts
6. Observe the following torques:
U-bolt nuts; Torque to: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
Front hanger bracket nut; Torque to: 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
Shackle to the frame nut; Torque to: 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
Shackle to the spring nut; Torque to: 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
7. Install the fuel tank for left side applications
8. Install the trailer hitch if equipped
9. Remove the rear axle support
10. Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle
11. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Stabilizer/Sway Bar
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Wheel and tire assembly
Stabilizer links
Oil pan skid plate removal
NOTE: Place the insulators on the stabilizer bar with the slits facing
toward the front of the vehicle.
Stabilizer bar
Brackets over the insulators and the stabilizer bar
Insulator bracket bolts and tighten the bolts
A. Torque to: 39 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Stabilizer links
Oil pan skid plate, if equipped and tighten the oil pan skid plate retaining
bolts
A. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
Wheel and tire assembly
2. Remove the safety stands
3. Lower the vehicle
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
Torsion Bar
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
NOTE: This procedure requires the removal of both torsion bars.
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Mark the adjustment bolt setting
3. Install tool J36202 or other suitable tool to the adjustment arm and the
crossmember
4. Decrease the tension on the adjustment arm until the load is removed from the
adjustment bolt and the adjuster nut
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
Adjustment bolt and the adjuster nut
Tool, allowing the torsion bar to unload
Adjustment arm by sliding the torsion bar forward until the torsion bar
clears the adjustment arm
NOTE: Use your hand to support the adjustment arm as the adjustment
arm releases from the torsion bar.
Retainer installation- torsion bar
NOTE: Note the position of the torsion bars as the left and right bars are
different.
Adjuster bolt removal
6. Torsion bars
7. Mark the torsion bars to prevent mixing them up on installation
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Torsion bars as marked on removal
Torsion bar crossmember
Torsion bar crossmember bolts to the weld nuts and tighten the bolt;
Torque to: 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
Upper link mounting nut and the bolt. Torque to: 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
While supporting the adjustment arm, slide the torsion bar rearward until
the torsion bar fully engages the adjustment arm.
Install tool J36202or other suitable tool to the adjustment arm and the
crossmember
Increase the tension on the adjustment arm in order to load the torsion
bar
Adjustment bolt and the adjuster nut
2. Remove the tool, releasing the tension on the torsion bar until the load is taken
up by the adjustment bolt
3. Remove the safety stands
4. Lower the vehicle
Ride height measurement
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
4 Wheel Drive
To Remove:
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Tire and wheel assembly
Lower control arm (See: Lower Control Arm)
3. Place the lower control arm in a bench vise
4. Using a chisel, remove the 4 securing crimps from the ball joint body
5. Using a press, remove the ball joint from the lower control arm
To Install:
NOTE: Use the outer flange of the ball joint in order to press the ball joint into place.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
1.
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Upper control arm
Upper control arm bolts
Upper control arm nuts and the adjustment cams and tighten the nuts;
Torque to: 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)
Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
Halfshaft (See: Halfshaft)
New nut to the upper ball joint stud and tighten the nut; Torque to: 37 ft.
lbs. (50 Nm)
Retaining bolts for the brake hose and wheel speed sensor brackets and
tighten the bolts; Torque to: 80 in. lbs. (9 Nm)
RTD link rod to the sensor (if equipped)
Tire and wheel assembly
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
1.
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Lower control arm
Ball joint stud to the steering knuckle
Lower ball joint stud nut and tighten the lower ball joint stud nut; Torque
to: 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm)
Front coil spring (See: Coil Spring)
Lower control arm bolts
Lower control arm nuts and the washers and tighten the lower control arm
nuts; Torque to: 107 ft. lbs. (145 Nm)
Front stabilizer shaft link
Shock absorber (See: Shock Absorber)
Tire and wheel assembly
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
2.
3.
4.
5.
4 Wheel Drive
To Remove:
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Tire and wheel assembly
Real Time Damping (RTD) link rod from the sensor (if equipped)
Stabilizer shaft links from the lower control arm
Shock absorber nut and the bolt
Torsion bars (See: Torsion Bars)
To Install:
2.
3.
4.
5.
Wheel Bearings
Removal & Installation
2WD Front
To Remove:
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Tire and wheel assembly
Rotor (See: Disc Brake Rotor)
2WD front hub
Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the
steering knuckle
Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor
Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts
Hub and bearing assembly
To Install:
1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub
and bearing assembly
2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent
3. Install or connect the following:
Hub and bearing assembly
Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts
Tighten the hub to knuckle bolts; Torque to: 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm)
Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor
Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering
knuckle and tighten the bolt; Torque to: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
Rotor (See: Disc Brake Rotor)
Tire and wheel assembly
4. Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
A new pinion shaft lockbolt should be installed whenever either of the axle shafts is
removed.
NOTE: Axle shaft seal removal and installation uses the following special tools: the GM
Axle Shaft Seal Installer tool No. J-33782 (seal driver) or equivalent and the Axle Shaft
Bearing Installer tool No. J-34974 (bearing driver) or equivalent.
1. Place a catch pan under the differential, then remove the drain plug (if equipped)
or rear axle cover and drain the fluid (discard the old fluid)
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Rear wheel assemblies
Brake drums (See: Brake Drums)
3. Using a wire brush, clean the dirt/rust from around the rear axle cover
4. Remove the following
Rear axle cover
Rear pinion shaft lock bolt and the pinion shaft, at the differential
C-lock from the button end of the axle shaft, push the axle shafts inward
Remove the lock bolt and pinion shaft, then push in the axle
shaft and remove the C-lock
Axle shaft from the axle housing. Be careful not to damage the oil seal
WARNING
On vehicles equipped with an Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) be careful not to
damage the reluctor ring on the axle shaft or the speed sensor bolted to the
backing plate, immediately adjacent to the shaft.
5. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces
NOTE: It is recommended, when the axle shaft is removed, to replace the oil seal
and bearing.
6. To replace the oil seal use a medium pry bar or, better yet, an inexpensive seal
removal tool, to pry the oil seal from the end of the rear axle housing
7. Do not damage the housing oil seal surface and again, on late-model ABS
equipped vehicles, stay clear of the speed sensor
8. Using the slide hammer and adapter, pull the bearing out of the axle tube
Using a slide hammer and adapters, remove the axle
bearing and seal
To Install:
1. If the wheel bearing was removed:
Step 1:
A. Using solvent, thoroughly clean the wheel bearing, then blow dry
with compressed air
B. Inspect the wheel bearing for excessive wear or damage, then
replace it (if necessary)
Step 2:
A. With a new or the reused bearing, thoroughly coat the bearing with
gear lubricant.
Step 3:
A. Using the Axle Shaft Bearing Installer tool No. J-34974, or
equivalent, drive the bearing into the axle housing until it bottoms
against the seat
B. Be sure the bearing installer does not contact and damage the
speed sensor on ABS equipped vehicles
To Install:
1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub
and bearing assembly
2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent
3. Install or connect the following:
Hub and bearing assembly
Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts and tighten the hub to knuckle
bolts; Torque to: 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm)
Front drive halfshaft assembly (See: Halfshaft)
Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor
Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering
knuckle and tighten the bolt; Torque to: 106 inch. lbs. (12 Nm)
Rotor (See: Disc Brake Rotor
Tire and wheel assembly
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
Steering Knuckle
Removal & Installation
Rear Wheel Drive
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Cautions and Warnings in the beginning
of this section
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Tire and wheel assembly
Wheel hub and bearing (See: Front Hub and Bearing)
4. Support the lower control arm with a suitable jack
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
Outer tie rod from the knuckle (See: Outer Tie Rod End)
Brake hose bracket retaining bolt from the knuckle
Retaining nut and separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle
using the J43631 and J 45851 or other suitable tool (See: Upper Ball
Joint)
2WD Lower ball joint to steering knuckle removal
Retaining nut and separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
using the J43631 and J 45851 or other suitable tool
Steering knuckle
To Install:
NOTE: Clean all grease and contaminants from the tapered section and the threads of
the upper ball joint, the lower ball joint, and the tie rod end. Clean and inspect the taper
holes and the mounting surfaces of the steering knuckle. If any of the tapered holes are
elongated, out of round, or damaged, the replace the steering knuckle.
1. Install or connect the following:
Steering knuckle
Lower ball joint to the steering knuckle
Ball joint retaining nut and tighten the retaining nut
A. Torque to: 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm)
Upper ball joint to the steering knuckle
Upper ball joint retaining nut and tighten the retaining nut
A. Torque to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Brake hose bracket retaining bolt to the knuckle and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle (See: Outer Tie Rod End)
Wheel hub and bearing (See: Front Hub and Bearing)
Tire and wheel assembly
WARNING
After removal, lay the hub and bearing assembly on the outboard side. This will
prevent damage and/or contamination of the bearing seal.
Splash shield
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
New seal in the steering knuckle, using a J 36605 or other suitable seal
installer
Steering knuckle on the ball joints and the retaining nuts and torque the
upper ball joint nut; Torque to: 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) and the lower ball joint
nut; Torque to: 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm)
Tighten the nuts to align the holes for cotter pin insertion, but do NOT
tighten more than an additional 1/6 turn
Splash shield
Hub/bearing assembly over the splined shaft, making sure the splines line
up correctly and torque the bolts; Torque to: 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm)
Tie rod end at the steering knuckle (See: Tie Rod End)
Thrust washer and axle nut and torque the nut; Torque to: 165 ft. lbs.
(225 Nm)
Retainer and cotter pin
Rotor and caliper (See: Disc Brake Rotor and Disc Brake Caliper)
2. Remove the shop towels from the CV-Joint boot
Tire and wheel assemblies
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
Steering
Air Bag
Precautions
WARNING
Some vehicles are equipped with an air bag system, also known as the Supplemental
Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system or Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). The system
must be disabled before performing service on or around system components, steering
column, instrument panel components, wiring and sensors. Failure to follow safety and
disabling procedures could result in accidental air bag deployment, possible personal
injury and unnecessary system repairs. Disable these systems by disconnecting the
battery before performing service on or around system components; steering column,
instrument panel components, wiring and sensors. Failure to follow safety and disabling
procedures could result in accidental air bag deployment, personal injury and costly
system repairs.
WARNING
When carrying a live inflator module (air bag), make sure the bag and trim cover are
pointed away from you.
Never carry inflator module (air bag) by the wires or connector on the underside
of the module. In case of an accidental deployment, the bag will deploy with
minimal chance of injury. When placing a live inflator module (air bag) on a bench
or other surface, always face bag and trim cover up, away from the surface.
Never rest a steering column assembly on the steering wheel with the inflator
module (air bag) face down and column vertical. This is necessary so that a free
space is provided to allow the inflator module (air bag) to expand in the unlikely
event of accidental deployment. Otherwise, personal injury could result.
WARNING
In the event deployment has occurred inspect coil assembly wire and driver inflator
module for any signs of scorching melting or other damage due to excessive heat If the
coil or inflator module has been damaged, replace it.
WARNING
Do not connect the battery negative cable remote terminal at the end of a procedure.
Unless you refer to manufactures airbag system test for the procedure, to assure you are
using the current, correct procedures.
Ignition Switch
Removal & Installation
2003-2007 Models
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
To Install:
CAUTION
The gears between the ignition switch and the lock cylinder housing must be in the
correct position. Failure to do so may result in a NO START or BATTERY DRAIN
condition.
1. Verify the alignment of the gear in the ignition switch. If gear is not in position
shown, turn gear in ignition switch until you reach the correct position.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the switch.
3. Insert the ignition switch into the lock cylinder housing. The tabs on the ignition
switch MUST be seated inside the lock cylinder housing.
4. Connect the passlock and key buzzer.
5. Install the steering column trim covers.
6. Install the hush panel and knee bolster.
7. Enable the air bag system.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
To Install:
1. Install the ignition lock cylinder into the steering column using the following
procedure:
Install the key in the lock cylinder
Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear clockwise to
the start position and allow it to return into the RUN position.
Push the lock cylinder in until the locking tab locks in the ignition lock
cylinder case assembly
2. Install the steering column trim covers
3. Connect the negative cable to the battery
4. Check for correct operation
Steering Linkage
CAUTION
If steering linkage is disconnected, immobilize the steering wheel to prevent damage to
the clock spring assembly.
Relay Rod
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Engine protection shield, if equipped
Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped
NOTE: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the
ball joints.
Steering components
Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable
puller
3.
4.
5.
6.
Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other
suitable puller
Relay rod from the vehicle
Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
Clean the threads on the ball studs
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Relay rod to the vehicle
Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman
arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
Tie rod ends
Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
Engine protection shield, if equipped
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Check the wheel alignment
4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Pitman Arm
Removal & Installation
2003-2007 Models
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1. Install the pitman arm onto the steering gear.
2. Install a new pitman arm washer and nut.
Tighten the nut to 184 lb ft (250 Nm).
3. Install the steering gear. Refer to Steering Gear Replacement.
4. Check the alignment and set the toe adjustment to specification
Idler Arm
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
CAUTION
Do not attempt to free the ball stud by using a pickle fork or wedge type tool, because
seal or bushing damage could result. Use the proper tool to separate all ball joints.
1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Engine protection shield, if equipped
Steering components
Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut
Idler arm from the relay rod using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
To Install:
1. Position the idler arm on the frame
2. Install or connect the following:
Frame bolts and the nuts to the idler arm and tighten the frame bolts;
Torque to: 73 ft. lbs. (99 Nm)
Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
New idler arm ball stud prevailing torque nut to the idler arm ball stud and
tighten the nut; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
Engine protection shield, if equipped
3. Lower the vehicle
4. Check the wheel alignment
5. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
Recirculating ball gear
Power steering high pressure line (B) from the rack and pinion assembly
(C)
Power steering low pressure line (A) from the rack and pinion assembly
(C)
Coupler clamp bolt from the intermediate shaft
Intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion assembly
Rack and pinion assembly mounting nuts (A), the washers (B) and the
bolts (D)
Rack and pinion assembly (C) from the vehicle
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Rack and pinion assembly into the vehicle
Rack and pinion assembly mounting bolts the washers and the nuts and
tighten the nuts
A. Torque to: 136 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)
Intermediate shaft to the rack and pinion assembly
Coupler clamp bolt to the intermediate shaft and tighten the bolt
A. Torque to: 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
Power steering low pressure hose to the rack and pinion assembly
Power steering high pressure hose to the rack and pinion assembly and
tighten the hoses
A. Torque to: 28 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)
Engine protection shield, if equipped
Outer tie rod end to the steering knuckle
Stabilizer bar (See: Stabilizer Bar)
Ground strap to the crossmember bracket if the steering gear is equipped
with a ground strap as follows:
A. Place the ground strap on the left side of the bracket and mark the
location
B. Center punch the bolt hole location
C. Drill a hole using a 7 mm (9/32 inch) drill bit
D. Install the bolt and washer retaining the ground strap to the
crossmember and tighten the bolt, Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10
Nm)
Both of the front tire and wheel assemblies
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Power steering pump
Bolts to the front and the rear of the pump and tighten the bolts; Torque
to: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
Hoses to the pump and tighten the nut; Torque to: 20 ft. lbs. (28 Nm)
Nut and clamp retaining the filler neck to the power steering pump, if
equipped
Install the pulley with 0.5 mm (0.020 in) play
Drive belt
Battery junction block from pump bracket
Upper radiator shroud
2. Fill and bleed the power steering system
3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
2. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose from the brake booster.
3. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose from the power steering gear.
4. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not twist the inlet and outlet hoses during installation. Do not bend the inlet or
outlet hoses to ease installation.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
4. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose from the power steering pump.
5. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose from the power steering gear.
6. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not twist the inlet and outlet hoses during installation. Do not bend the inlet or
outlet hoses to ease installation.
1. Position hose on vehicle.
2. Install the power steering gear inlet hose to the power steering pump and hand
tighten.
3. Install the power steering gear inlet hose to the power steering gear.
4. Tighten both power steering gear inlet hose fittings to 20 lb ft (28 Nm).
5. Remove the drain pan from under the vehicle.
6. Install the engine protection shield.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Bleed the power steering system.
2. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose from the power steering pump.
3. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose from the power steering gear.
4. Remove the power steering gear inlet hose.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not twist the inlet and outlet hoses during installation. Do not bend the inlet or
outlet hoses to ease installation.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
2. Remove the power steering gear outlet hose from the power steering gear.
3. Remove the power steering gear outlet hose retaining clamp at the power
steering pump.
4. Remove the power steering gear outlet hose.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not twist the inlet and outlet hoses during installation. Do not bend the inlet or
outlet hoses to ease installation.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
2. Remove the power steering gear outlet hose from the power steering gear.
3. Remove the power steering gear outlet hose from the power steering cooler.
To Install:
NOTE: Do not twist the inlet and outlet hoses during installation. Do not bend the inlet or
outlet hoses to ease installation.
1. Install the power steering gear outlet hose to the power steering cooler.
2. Install the power steering gear outlet hose to the power steering gear and hand
tighten.
3. Install the power steering gear outlet hose to the power steering pump.
4. Tighten the hose fittings to 20 lb ft (28 Nm).
5. Remove the drain pan from under the vehicle.
6. Bleed the power steering system.
Steering Column
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
CAUTION
Vehicle is equipped with a Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System. This system
must be disabled to avoid possible personal injury.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disable the supplemental inflatable restraint (SIR) system.
3. Remove the knee bolster.
NOTE: The vehicles front wheels must be placed in the straight ahead position
with the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering
column or intermediate shaft.
4. Place tool J 42640 through the access hole in the lower steering column trim
cover to lock the steering column.
5. Remove the body control module bracket.
NOTE: Do not disconnect the harness from the body control module.
6. Disconnect the transmission shift cable from the column.
7. Disconnect the steering column electrical connectors.
8. Remove the wire harness retaining pin from the instrument panel.
9. Remove the upper intermediate shaft pinch bolt from the steering column and
remove the shaft from the steering column.
10. Remove the nuts from the knee bolster deflector and remove deflector.
To Install:
CAUTION
The steering columns lower fasteners must be tightened prior to the upper fasteners or
the steering column may be damaged. Do not overtighten the upper steering column
fasteners as this could affect the steering column collapse.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Rear Steering
Steering Gear Motor
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
CAUTION
Do not allow the jack to touch the rear steering gear when lifting the vehicle. Damage to
the rubber boots may occur.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Install:
1. Make sure the O-ring is properly seated on the steering gear.
2. Install the steering gear motor on the steering gear assembly.
Tighten the 6 mm (0.24 in) bolts to 89 lb in (10 Nm) and the 4 mm (0.16
in) bolts to 35 lb in (4 Nm).
3. Connect the connectors to the control module and the position sensor. Make sure
to route the wiring in the original position.
4. Install the wire harness retaining clips.
5. Install the spare tire.
6. Lower the vehicle.
To Install:
1. Clean the differential and steering actuator sealing surfaces.
2. Install the steering gear actuator and a new gasket on the differential.
Tighten the bolts to 45 lb ft (61 Nm).
3. Connect the electrical connectors to the control module and position sensor.
4. Connect the vent hose to the vent nipple.
5. Connect the outer tie rod ends to the knuckle.
6. Fill the differential with fluid.
7. Install the steering gear protection shield.
8. Install the rear wheels.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Check and adjust the wheel alignment as needed.
To Install:
1. Install the control module to the vehicle.
Tighten the bolts to 18 lb ft (24 Nm).
2. Connect the electrical connectors to the module.
3. Install the spare tire to the vehicle.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Perform a learn alignment.
To Install:
1. Make sure the O-ring seal is installed correctly.
2. Install the rear wheel position sensor. Remove the pin retaining the position of
the new sensor.
Tighten the bolts to 35 lb in (4 Nm).
3. Install the position sensor cover.
4. Connect the electrical connector to the sensor.
5. Install the steering gear protection shield.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Perform a learn wheel alignment.
Tie rod bracket (B) retaining bolts (A) from the steering knuckle
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground Torque lug nuts in sequence as follows:
Single Wheel Axle:
A. Torque to: 140 lb-ft. (190 Nm)
Dual Wheel Axle:
A. Torque to: 175 lb-ft. (240 Nm)
Remove the wheel chocks and store the jack in its storage area
Perform a four wheel alignment
Tighten the tie rod jam nut
Torque to: 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm)
Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
inner tie rod support clamp using the J 44665-1 (A) and J 44665-2 (B) or
other suitable tools
Inner tie rod (A) from the steering gear using the J 44665-2 (B) or other
suitable tool
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
Inner tie rod to the steering gear and using the J 44665-2 or other suitable
tool tighten the inner tie rod and tighten the inner tie rod
A. Torque to: 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm)
Inner tie rod support clamp to the steering gear using the J 44665-1 and
the J 44665-2 or other suitable tools in order to tighten the inner tie rod
support clamp and tighten the inner tie rod support clamp
A. Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Rack and pinion boot to the steering gear
Tire and wheel assembly
Wheel Alignment
Independent Front Suspension
Check the alignment of your vehicle periodically to ensure even tire wear and stable
handling. The easiest way to check the alignment (without the use of an alignment rack)
is to check the condition of the tires. Uneven wear patterns across the tread area are a
dead giveaway. Other symptoms include pulling or drifting to the right or left and
instability when turning or changing lanes. If an alignment problem is suspected, first
check for improper tire inflation and other possible causes such as worn suspension or
steering components, accident damage or unmatched tires. If any worn or damaged
components are found, they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly
aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and involves finite
adjustments that must be accurate. Alignments should only be performed by a trained
technician. Have your vehicle aligned by a qualified repair facility.
The following is a description of the alignment angles that are adjustable on most
vehicles and how they affect vehicle handling. These angles can apply to both the front
and rear wheels. On rear wheel drive vehicles typically, only the front suspension is
adjustable.
Caster
Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis from front to
rear. The steering knuckle is attached to a control arm or strut at the top and a control
arm at the bottom. The wheel pivots around the line between these points to steer the
vehicle. When the upper point is tilted back, this is described as positive caster. Having
positive caster tends to make the wheels self-centering increasing directional stability.
Excessive positive caster makes the wheels hard to steer, while an uneven caster will
cause a pull to one side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect
caster, as it will raise the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than
normal, the caster becomes more positive.
Camber
Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
wheels. When the tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are
tilted out, positive. In a turn a slight amount of negative camber helps maximize contact
of the tire with the road. Too much negative camber compromises straight-line stability,
increases bump steer and torque steer.
Camber influences tire contact with the road
Toe
Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the difference in
distance between the front of the wheels, to the back of the wheels. If the wheels are
closer at the front, they are said to be toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of
negative toe enhances directional stability and provides a smoother ride on the highway.
With toe-in, the distance between the wheels is closer at the
front than at the rear
Frame Misalignment
Frame misalignment
There are two types of frames commonly used, the ladder frame or full length frame and
the subframe. Both frames are isolated from the body using rubber isolators. The
subframe does not run the full length of the vehicle. The subframe supports the engine
and transaxle. The frame provides the mounting point for the front suspension lower
control arms. Any misalignment of the frame (accident damage, improperly performed
heavy engine work where the subframe is loosened, lowered and/or removed, etc.)
causes a misalignment of the front wheels. Movement of the frame usually causes an
increase in caster on one side of the vehicle and decrease in caster on the other side.
This can cause the exhaust system to bind up, problems with control cables and
unacceptable noise. Check the frame/subframe for any obvious damage, especially on a
used vehicle with an unknown history.
Setback
Subframe setback
Setback applies to both the front and the rear wheels. Setback is the amount that one
wheel spindle may be aligned behind the other wheel spindle. Setback may be the result
of a road hazard (heavily hit pothole, for example) or a collision. The first clue is a caster
difference from side-to-side of more than one degree.
Thrust Angles
Thrust angle
The front wheels aim or steer the vehicle. The rear wheels control tracking. This tracking
action relates to the thrust angle. The thrust angle is the path that the rear wheels take.
Ideally the thrust angle is geometrically aligned with the body centerline. If, for example,
the toe-in on the left rear wheel is out of specification, it moves the thrust line off center.
The resulting deviation from the centerline is the thrust angle.
Lead/Pull
Torque steer
Lead is the deviation of the vehicle from a straight path on a level road, without hand
pressure on the steering wheel. Lead is usually the result of tire construction, uneven
parking brake adjustment or the wheel alignment. The way in which a tire is built may
produce lead. Rear tires do not cause lead.
Torque Steer
A vehicle pulls or leads in one direction during hard acceleration. A vehicle pulls or leads
in the other direction during deceleration. The following factors may cause torque steer
to be more apparent on a particular vehicle:
A slightly smaller diameter tire on the right front increases a right torque lead.
Inspect the front tires for differences in the brand, the construction or the size. If
the tires appear to be similar, change the front tires from side-to-side and retest
the vehicle. Tire and wheel assemblies have the most significant effect on torque
steer correction.
A large difference in the right and left front tire pressure.
Left-to-right differences in the front view axle angle may cause significant
steering pull in the vehicle. The pull will be to the side with the most downward
sloping axle from the differential to the wheels. Axles (halfshafts) typically slope
downward from the differential. The slope of the transaxle pan to level ground
may be used as an indication of bias axle angles. The side with the higher
transaxle pan has the most downward sloping axle angle.
Memory Steer
Memory steer is when the vehicle wants to lead or pull in the direction the driver
previously turned the vehicle. Additionally, after turning in the opposite direction,
the vehicle will want to lead or pull in that direction.
Wander
The tires should be checked for proper inflation pressures. Refer to the Tire
Placard, referenced in this section.
Check the tires for normal tread wear.
Check the front hub and bearing assembly for excessive wear.
Check the ball joints and tie rods for looseness.
Inspect the wheels and tires for runout, resulting from bent wheels or faulty tires.
The vehicle trim height should be checked. If the trim heights are not within
specification, it will be necessary to make corrections before adjusting the
alignment.
The steering gear should be checked for looseness.
The struts should be inspected for wear or damage.
The control arms should be checked for loose or worn bushings.
The stabilizer shaft (sometimes called a sway bar) attachments should be
checked for loose or missing components.
The frame fasteners should be checked for proper torque.
The frame insulators should be checked for wear or damage.
2. NOTE: Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block
of wood cut into wedges may be used. If possible, keep one or two of the chocks
in your tire storage compartment, in case any of the tires has to be removed
roadside.
3. Remove the jack, tire iron and, if necessary, the spare tire from the storage
compartment
4. Check the owners manual or refer to the jacking placard in the trunk area, then
place the jack in the proper position
Place the jack at the proper lifting point on your vehicle
5. If equipped with lug nut trim caps, remove them by either unscrewing or pulling
them off the lug nuts, as appropriate (Consult the owners manual, if necessary)
6. If equipped with a wheel cover or hub cap, insert the tapered end of the tire iron
in the groove and pry off the cover
7. With the tires still on the ground use the tire iron/wrench to break the lug nuts
loose, but do not remove the lug nuts until the vehicle has been safely raised off
the ground
With the vehicle still on the ground, break the lug nuts loose
using the wrench end of the tire iron
8. NOTE: If a nut is stuck, never use heat to loosen. Damage to the wheel and
bearings may occur. If the nuts are seized use penetrating oil on the lug nuts and
soak for a period of time to loosen the rust. If the lug nuts are still difficult to break
loose, place a long pipe over the lug wrench to apply increased leverage.
9. Using the jack, raise the vehicle until the tire is clear of the ground and support
the vehicle safely using jack stands
10. Remove the lug nuts, then remove the tire and wheel assembly
After the lug nuts have been loosened, raise the vehicle
using the jack until the tire is clear of the ground
To Install:
Make sure that the wheel and hub mating surfaces, as well as the wheel lug studs, are
clean and free of all foreign material. Always remove rust from the wheel mounting
surface and the brake rotor or drum. Failure to do so may cause the lug nuts to loosen.
1. Place a small amount of anti-seize compound on the lug studs
2. Install the tire and wheel assembly and hand-tighten the lug nuts
3. Using the tire wrench, tighten all the lug nuts, in a star pattern, until they are snug
which will allow you to distribute the proper torque to the lug nuts without
distorting the rim, or brake rotor
4. Raise the vehicle and withdraw the jackstand, then lower the vehicle
5. Using a torque wrench torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the recommended
torque (Check your owners manual or refer to Wheels for the proper tightening
sequence and torque specification)
Typical wheel lug tightening sequence
6. WARNING
Do not over tighten the lug nuts, as this may cause the wheel studs to overstretch
or the brake disc (rotor) to warp.
7. If so equipped, align the valve stem and install the wheel cover or hubcap
8. Use a rubber mallet to properly install the cover without damage
9. If equipped, install the lug nut trim caps by pushing or screwing them on, as
applicable
10. Remove the jack from under the vehicle, and place the jack and tire iron/wrench
in their storage compartment
11. Remove the wheel chock(s)
12. If you have removed a flat or damaged tire, place it in the storage compartment
of the vehicle and take it to your local repair station to have it repaired or
replaced as soon as possible
13. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
Dust cap, then remove the cotter pin from the spindle
Nut cover and remove the mounting nut holding the wheel bearing to the
hub
7. Slide the rotor forward to release the front wheel bearing and place the bearing in
the dust cap to protect it from dirt and debris
8. Remove the rotor from the spindle (See: Disc Brake Rotor)
9. Properly support the rotor using press bars, and then drive the stud out using an
arbor press
NOTE: If a press is not available, carefully drive the old stud out using a blunt drift.
Ensure that the rotor is properly and evenly supported or damage may result.
To Install:
1. Clean the stud hole with a wire brush and start the new stud with a hammer and
drift pin
NOTE: Do not use any lubricant or thread sealer.
2. Finish installing the stud with the press
CAUTION
Make sure that the stud is fully seated, and then remove the lug nut and
washers.
Brake caliper and pads (See: Disc Brake Pads and Disc Brake Caliper)
Wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts
6. Remove the jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
Force the stud onto the axle flange using washers and a lug nut
10. Using a large C-clamp and socket, press the stud from the axle flange.
To Install:
1. Coat the serrated part of the stud with liquid soap and place it into the hole
2. Position about four flat washers over the stud and thread the lug nut
3. Hold the flange while tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into
position
4. If applicable, install the brake shoes (See: Drum Brake Shoes)
5. Install the brake drum (See: Brake Drum)
6. Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts
7. Remove the jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle
Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
BRAKES
Brake Operating System
Basic Operating Principles
When the first automobiles left the assembly line, the brake systems were mechanically
operated. Today, a hydraulic system actuates the brakes. The hydraulic system
transports a hydroscopic fluid from the master cylinder to the brake calipers or wheel
cylinders at each wheel. A proportioning valve is used to equally distribute the fluid's
pressure to each wheel providing safe and dependable stopping power.
Automobiles use hydraulics for two reasons:
Carrying fluid under pressure to all parts of the automobile can be accomplished
with small piping and flexible hoses. This takes up minimal space and does not
contribute greatly to the weight of the vehicle.
There are mechanical advantages to the brake pedal end of the system, and the
foot pressure required to actuate the brakes is greatly reduced, especially with a
vacuum or hydraulic (hydro boost) assist power booster.
Master cylinders consist of a dual chamber fluid reservoir along with a cylinder and dual
piston assembly. Dual type master cylinders are designed to separate the front and rear
braking systems hydraulically in case the system becomes compromised. This
redundant system has the ability to isolate the front or rear brakes in case of a system
leak providing braking. Master cylinders covert mechanical motion from the pedal into
hydraulic pressure within the lines. This pressure is translated back into mechanical
motion at the wheels by the wheel cylinders (drum brakes) or calipers (disc brakes).
Brake fluid is carried by steel lines to a point on the vehicle's frame near each of the
vehicle's wheels. A flexible hose completes the fluid transfer to the wheel cylinders and
calipers. Using a flexible hose allows for suspension travel and steering the vehicle
without compromising safety.
Wheel cylinders contain two pistons at either end of the cylinder. The pistons push
outward in opposite directions and force the brake shoes to contact the drums and stop
the vehicle.
Disc brake calipers work the same way as wheel cylinders. However, instead of pushing
the shoes outward, the calipers push the brake pads inward toward the rotor. There are
fixed and floating calipers. A fixed caliper is solidly mounted to a bracket. These calipers
typically have pistons on both sides and exert equal force to each brake pad. A floating
caliper is mounted to slider pins and have pistons (normally one) on one side only. As
the brake pedal is depressed, the piston in the floating caliper expands outward to the
brake pad. The opposite side of the caliper is drawn toward the rotor with equal
pressure, however the single piston does all of the work.
You can check the warning light by depressing the brake pedal while someone else
opens a bleeder screw on the caliper or wheel cylinder. If the light does not go on,
substitute a new lamp, make continuity checks, and, finally, replace the switch as
necessary.
NOTE: When opening the bleeder screw, ensure that the reservoir is full, and do not
release the brake pedal until the bleeder screw has been tightened. If the pedal is
released, you will need to perform a complete brake bleeding procedure to ensure there
is no air in the system.
Check the hydraulic system for leaks by applying and holding pressure to the pedal. If
the pedal sinks to the floor, either slowly or quickly, the system has a leak. A spongy feel
to the brake pedal, without sinking to the floor, indicates air in the system.
Check for leaks from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders. To check the master
cylinder, remove the mounting nuts at the power booster and pull the master cylinder
forward. If the rear of the cylinder is wet with brake fluid, replace the component. Check
the metal lines along the length and at connections, and check the brake hoses. Finally,
pull the dust boots back from the wheel cylinders. If brake fluid is found inside the dust
boots, replace the wheel cylinders. It is also possible to have a compromised master
cylinder with no apparent leaks. With this condition, the pressure is bypassed to the
reservoir and not to the wheel cylinders.
Disc Brakes
Disc brakes use a rotor with brake pads, instead of a drum with expanding shoes. Much
like the hand-brake configuration on a bicycle, brake pads squeeze inward against either
side of the rotor.
Disc brake rotors are typically made from a cast-iron alloy. There are two types of disc
rotors; solid and vented. A solid rotor is just that; there are no cooling vanes to dissipate
heat. Vented rotors utilize an air space between each rotor half. As the wheel turns, the
rotor draws in air from the rear of the rotor and expels the air through the center between
the rotor halves. This enables air to circulate between the braking surfaces making them
less sensitive to heat buildup and more resistant to fade. Dirt and water do not drastically
affect braking action since contaminants are thrown off by the centrifugal action of the
rotor or scraped off the by the pads. Also, equal clamping action of the two brake pads
tends to ensure uniform, straight line stops. Disc brakes are inherently self-adjusting.
There are three general types of disc brake calipers:
Fixed
Floating
Sliding
Fixed caliper designs use four pistons; two mounted on either side of the rotor. The
caliper is mounted rigidly and does not move.
Floating and sliding designs are quite similar. In fact, these two types are often lumped
together in the same category. In floating and sliding configurations, the pad on the
inside of the rotor is moved into contact with the rotor with hydraulic force. The caliper,
which is not held in a fixed position, moves bringing the outside pad into contact with the
rotor. There are various methods of attaching floating calipers. Some pivot at the bottom
or top, and some slide on mounting bolts. They both, however, accomplish the same
task.
Drum Brakes
A drum brake system consists of two brake shoes mounted on a stationary backing
plate. These shoes are mounted inside a circular drum that rotates with the wheels. The
brake shoes are held in place by springs and pivot points. This mounting allows the
shoes to ratchet (servo action) within the drum creating a smooth transition of the friction
material to stop the vehicle safely. The brake shoes are actuated by wheel-cylinders that
are mounted at the top of the backing plate. When applied, hydraulic pressure forces the
wheel cylinder's push-rods outward. Since these links bear directly against the top of the
brake shoes, the tops of the shoes are then forced against the inner side of the drum.
When the brake pedal is released the wheel cylinder is relaxed, and return springs pull
the shoes back away from the drum.
Modern drum brakes are designed to self-adjust during brake application when the
vehicle is moving in reverse. This causes a reverse ratcheting effect of the brake shoes,
rocking an adjusting lever, thereby causing rotation of the adjusting screw. There are
also drum brake systems designed to self-adjust during brake application at any time.
Self-adjusting brake shoes maintain an acceptable distance between the drum and
shoes. It also reduces the need for maintenance adjustments and keeps both the brake
function and pedal feel satisfactory.
Vacuum Assist Power Boosters
Most modern automobiles are equipped with a vacuum assist power booster. The
purpose of the booster is to multiply the braking force, and reduce pedal effort. The
booster draws vacuum from the base of the intake manifold, and since vacuum is
generally available when the engine is operating, the system is simple and efficient.
Some vehicles do not have a sufficient source of vacuum; these vehicles use a hydro
boost system that is typically run by the power steering pump, or other auxiliary pump.
The booster contains a vacuum diaphragm and assists the driver in applying the brakes,
reducing both the effort and travel that's required to move the brake pedal.
The power booster is connected to the intake manifold by a metal line and vacuum hose.
A check valve is installed where the hose enters the diaphragm housing. At periods of
low manifold vacuum, there will be no loss of brake assist.
The vacuum source is closed off when the brake pedal is depressed. Atmospheric
pressure enters on one side of the diaphragm, causing the pistons in the master cylinder
to move, applying the brakes. Releasing the brake pedal causes vacuum to be applied to
both sides of the diaphragm, and return springs move the diaphragm and master
cylinder pistons to the released position.
If manifold vacuum is lost, the system will still work without any power assist. However, a
greater effort must be exerted to stop the vehicle and the brake pedal will feel rock hard.
Testing
Vacuum Leak Test
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Place the vehicle in PARK (automatic) or
REVERSE (manual) with the engine OFF, and apply the parking brake. Chock
the rear wheels to prevent vehicle movement.
NOTE: Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block
of wood cut into wedges may be used.
2. Start the vehicle and operate the engine at idle without touching the brake pedal
for at least one minute.
NOTE: For manual transmission vehicles, place the vehicle in NEUTRAL with the
parking brake applied.
3. Turn off the engine and wait one minute.
4. Test for the presence of assist vacuum by depressing the brake pedal and
releasing it several times. If vacuum is present in the system, light application will
produce less and less pedal travel. If there is no vacuum, there is a leak allowing
air into the system.
System Operation Test
1. With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal until the vacuum supply is entirely
gone.
2. Place your foot on the brake pedal and apply steady pressure. Maintain steady
pressure on the brake pedal.
3. Start the engine and let it idle. If the system is operating correctly, the brake
pedal should fall to the floor.
NOTE: Power brake systems may be tested for hydraulic leaks just as ordinary systems
are tested.
WARNING
Never use brake fluid from an open container. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, and will absorb
moisture that will compromise the efficiency of the fluid. Clean, high quality brake fluid is
essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy
brake fluid recommended for your vehicle and brake system. Never mix DOT grade
brake fluid with Silicon Brake Fluid; the combination is tantamount to adding air to the
brake lines, causing weak and ineffective braking and an expensive procedure to clean,
flush and replenish the brake system. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Discard any brake fluid that is removed from the system. Also, vehicles equipped
with ABS (Antilock Brake Systems) must be professionally bled using a pressure bleeder
or a gravity bleed procedure. Refer to a qualified repair center for service.
Master Cylinder
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Apply the park brake and block the wheels.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Electrical connector from the brake fluid level sensor. If equipped.
Brake lines from the master cylinder
CAUTION
Install a rubber cap or plug to the exposed brake line ends to prevent brake fluid
loss and contamination
3. Plug the open brake line ends
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
Master cylinder mounting nuts
Master cylinder from the vehicle
Master cylinder reservoir
To Install:
1. Install master cylinder reservoir
2. Bench bleed the master cylinder
3. Install or connect the following:
Master cylinder to the vehicle
Master cylinder mounting nuts. Tighten to: 27 ft lbs (36 Nm)
Rubber cap or plug from the exposed brake pipe fitting ends
Brake lines. Tighten to: 18 ft. lbs (25 Nm)
Electrical connector to the brake fluid level sensor, if equipped
4. Bleed the brake system.
5. Release the park brake and unblock the wheels.
5. Remove the brake fluid level sensor by depressing the retaining tabs and
pushing the sensor through the reservoir (if equipped).
6. Using a hammer and drift punch, remove roll pins that secure the reservoir to the
master cylinder.
7. Separate the reservoir from the master cylinder.
To Install:
1. Push the master cylinder reservoir into the master cylinder until it snaps into
place.
2. Using a hammer and drift punch, install NEW roll pins into the master cylinder.
3. Press the brake fluid level sensor into reservoir until retaining tabs are secured.
4. Bench bleed the master cylinder.
5. Remove master cylinder from vise and install on vehicle.
6. Release the park brake.
7. Bleed the brakes.
Bench Bleeding
WARNING
Replacement master cylinders are delivered dry. To prevent damage to the pistons in
the master cylinder, all new master cylinders should be bench bled prior to installation.
Bleeding a new master cylinder on the vehicle is not a good idea. With air trapped inside,
the master cylinder piston may bottom in the bore and possibly cause internal damage.
1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise using soft jaws.
2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap.
3. Manufacture or purchase bleeding tubes and install them on the master cylinder
as illustrated.
4. NOTE: The bleeding tubes are installed on the master cylinder then curved to
drain into the reservoir.
5. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid until the level is
within 0.25 in. of the reservoir top.
NOTE: Ensure the bleeding tubes are below the level of the brake fluid,
otherwise air may get into the system making your bleeding efforts ineffective.
6. Use a blunt tipped rod (a long socket extension or Phillips head screwdriver
works well) to slowly depress the master cylinder piston. Make sure the piston
travels its full stroke.
7. As the piston is depressed, air bubbles will exit the bleeding tubes. Continue
depressing and releasing the piston until all bubbles cease.
8. Refill the master cylinder with fluid.
9. Remove the bleeding tubes.
10. Install the master cylinder reservoir cap.
11. Install the master cylinder on the vehicle.
7. Disconnect the other end of the line or hose, moving the drain pan if necessary.
Always use a line wrench to avoid damaging the fitting.
8. Disconnect any retaining clips or brackets holding the line and remove the line
from the vehicle.
NOTE: If the brake system is to remain open for more time than it takes to swap lines,
tape or plug each remaining clip and port to keep contaminants out, and fluid in.
Any gaskets/crush washers should be replaced with new
ones during installation
To Install:
NOTE: Install the new line or hose, starting with the end farthest from the master
cylinder. Connect the other end, and then confirm that both fittings are correctly threaded
and turn smoothly using finger pressure. Make sure the new line will not rub against any
other part. Brake lines must be at least 1/2 in. (13mm) from the steering column and
other moving parts. Any protective shielding or insulators must be reinstalled in the
original location.
WARNING
Make sure the hose is NOT kinked or touching any part of the frame or suspension after
installation. These conditions may cause the hose to fail prematurely.
1. Using two line wrenches as before, tighten each fitting.
2. Install any retaining clips or brackets on the lines.
3. If removed, install the wheel and tire assemblies, then carefully lower the vehicle
to the ground.
4. Torque the wheels to manufacturers' recommended specification.
5. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid, meeting
the DOT specification recommended by the manufacturer. Properly bleed the
brake system.
NOTE: Do not remove pressure from the brake pedal once it is bottomed out. No
movement to the pedal should occur until the bleeder is closed and the assistant
is made aware of the situation. Failure to do this will draw more air into the
system.
10. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant remove their foot from the brake
pedal. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
11. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, tighten the
bleeder screw and remove the hose.
12. After bleeding each wheel, check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid
accordingly.
13. Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining three wheels, ending with the one
closet to the master cylinder. The pattern is, RR, LR, RF, LF.
14. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level and install the reservoir cap.
4. Remove the brake master cylinder Vacuum hose from the brake booster check
valve
5. Remove the pushrod retaining clip (D) from the brake pedal stud (A)
6. Remove the brake light switch (B) and the pushrod (C) from the brake pedal stud
(A)
Brake pedal to booster connection
7. Remove the four vacuum booster mounting nuts and the vacuum booster.
8. Remove and discard the booster gasket.
To Install:
1. Install or connect the following:
New gasket to the booster
Vacuum booster
Four vacuum booster mounting nuts; Tighten to: 27 ft lbs- (36 Nm)
Pushrod and the brake light switch to the brake pedal stud
Pushrod retaining clip to the brake pedal stud
Vacuum hose to the brake booster check valve
Master cylinder
Battery ground cable
2. Road test the vehicle to check performance.
To Install:
1. Install the gasket.
2. Install the booster assembly.
3. Install the booster to bulkhead nuts.
Tighten to: 24 ft lbs (33 Nm).
4. Install the brake light switch and pushrod.
5. Install the master cylinder.
Tighten the mounting nuts to: 24 ft lbs (33 Nm).
6. Connect the steering gear, return hose, and inlet hoses.
7. Bleed the hydraulic booster system.
Combination Valve
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Disconnect the combination valve electrical connector.
2. Disconnect the front and the rear brake lines.
3. Remove the combination valve from the vehicle.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Disc Brakes
Brake Caliper
Removal & Installation
Front
To Remove:
1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon enough fluid out of the
reservoirs to bring the level to 1/3 full. This step prevents spilling fluid when the
piston is pushed back.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the front wheels and tires.
4. Position a C-clamp around the outside pad and caliper; tighten the C-clamp until
the caliper piston bottoms in its bore.
Compressing the caliper piston
5. Remove the brake hose from the caliper by removing the inlet block bolt.
6. Remove and discard the copper washers.
Rear
To Remove:
1. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2. Remove the wheel assembly.
Compressing the rear caliper piston
3. Using a C-clamp or the equivalent, compress the caliper piston until the caliper
piston bottoms in the bore.
4. Disconnect the brake hose at the caliper by removing the inlet fitting bolt.
5. Remove and discard copper washers.
Rear caliper removal
Overhaul
Disassembly:
1. Remove the caliper from the vehicle and place on a clean workbench.
CAUTION
NEVER place your fingers in front of the pistons in an attempt to catch or protect
the pistons when applying compressed air. This could result in personal injury!
NOTE: Depending upon the vehicle, there are two different ways to remove the
piston from the caliper. Refer to the brake pad replacement procedure to make
sure you have the correct procedure for your vehicle.
2. The first method is as follows:
Stuff a shop towel or a block of wood into the caliper to catch the piston.
Remove the caliper piston using compressed air applied into the caliper
inlet hole. Inspect the piston for scoring, nicks, corrosion and/or worn or
damaged chrome plating. The piston must be replaced if any of these
conditions are found.
4. For the second method, you must rotate the piston to retract it from the caliper.
5. If equipped, remove the anti-rattle clip.
On some vehicles, you must remove the anti-rattle clip
6. Use a pry tool to remove the caliper boot, being careful not to scratch the housing
bore.
Use a pry tool to carefully pry around the edge of the boot . .
.
8. Remove the piston seals from the groove in the caliper bore.
9. Carefully loosen the brake bleeder valve cap and valve from the caliper housing.
10. Inspect the caliper bores, pistons and mounting threads for scoring or excessive
wear.
11. Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion from the piston and bore.
12. Clean all parts with denatured alcohol and dry with compressed air.
Assembly:
1. Lubricate and install the bleeder valve and cap.
2. Install the new seals into the caliper bore grooves, making sure they are not
twisted.
3. Lubricate the piston bore.
4. Install the pistons and boots into the bores of the calipers and push to the bottom
of the bores.
5. Use a suitable driving tool to seat the boots in the housing.
Use the proper size driving tool and a mallet to properly seal
the boots in the caliper housing
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Rear
To Remove:
1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon enough fluid out of the
reservoirs to bring the level to 1/3 full. This step prevents spilling fluid when the
piston is pushed back.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the front wheels and tires.
4. Position a C-clamp around the outside pad and caliper; tighten the C-clamp until
the caliper piston bottoms in its bore.
Compressing the caliper piston
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon out 2/3 of the fluid. This
step prevents spilling fluid when the piston is pushed back into the caliper bore.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Compress the brake piston back into its bore using a C-clamp.
5. Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts. Lift the caliper off the rotor.
6. Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads.
7. Remove and discard the anti-rattle clips.
To Install:
Caliper bracket sleeves
1. Thoroughly inspect, clean and lubricate all caliper slide points, bolts and
hardware.
2. Install new anti-rattle clips.
3. Position the inboard and outboard pads into the support bracket
4. With the 2 pads in position, place the caliper over the brake rotor and align the
holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
5. Install the caliper mounting bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears
and into the mounting bracket.
Tighten the mounting bolts to: 74 ft lb. (110 Nm) 1500 series
80 ft lb. (110 Nm) 25/3500 series.
6. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Lower the vehicle.
7. Add fluid to the master cylinder reservoirs so they are 1/4 in. (6.35mm) from the
top.
8. Test the brake pedal by pumping it to obtain a hard pedal. Check the fluid level
and add fluid as necessary.
Rear
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1. Install new anti-rattle clips.
2. Position the brake pads to the caliper mounting bracket.
3. With the 2 pads in position, place the caliper over the brake rotor and align the
holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
4. Install NEW caliper mounting bolts.
Tighten to: 31 ft lb (42 Nm) 1500 series and 80 ft lb (108 Nm) 25/3500
series.
5. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Refill the master cylinder to the proper level with fresh brake fluid. Pump the
brake pedal slowly and firmly to seat the brake pads. Burnish the brakes as
needed.
Drum Brakes
Brake Drums
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Index mark and remove the rear brake drum.
5. Use the following procedure to loosen the adjuster if the brake drum has a deep
ridge on the outer edge.
Remove the rubber cover on the backing plate.
Insert an ice pick and push the adjuster lever away from the adjuster
wheel.
Rotate the adjuster wheel upward with a brake adjuster tool while holding
the lever away from the adjuster wheel.
6. Remove the rear brake drum.
To Install:
1. Adjust the rear brake shoes using a brake adjustment gauge to measure the
inside diameter of the drum and the diameter of the shoes. Lengthen the adjuster
until the clearance between the rear brake shoes and the rear brake drum is
0.030 in (0.76 mm).
2. Align the index marks and install the rear brake drum.
3. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
Brake Shoes
Inspection
Inspect the brake lining through the openings in the backing plate or any time the wheels
are removed for service. Replace riveted linings when worn to within 0.030 in (0.76 mm)
of any rivet head. Replace bonded linings when the thickness of any lining is worn within
0.030 in (0.72 mm) of the shoe. Always replace shoe and lining assemblies as a
complete axle set.
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this
section.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
Wheel and tire assembly
Brake drums
4. Turn the brake adjuster to the lowest setting.
5. Remove the adjuster spring.
6. Remove the brake adjuster lever.
7. Remove the adjuster assembly.
8. Remove the secondary brake shoe retractor spring.
9. Remove the secondary brake shoe.
Drum brake retractor spring
15. NOTE: The lever is part of the brake shoe assembly. If the return spring
becomes separated from the lever, replace the rear brake shoe.
16. Remove the parking brake cable from the lever.
To Install:
1. Clean the adjuster wheels and the backing plates with a suitable cleaner.
2. Lubricate the backing plate contact points, levers and adjuster with a suitable
lubricant
3. Apply a small amount of high temperature silicone grease or equivalent to the
contact areas between the rear brake shoes and the backing plate.
4. Install the parking brake cable on the lever. A snapping noise will indicate that the
cable is seated properly.
5. Install the retractor spring on the backing plate.
6. Install the retractor spring on the primary brake shoe.
7. Install the secondary brake shoe on the backing plate.
8. Install the retractor spring on the secondary shoe.
9. Install the brake adjuster.
10. Adjust the rear brake shoes using a brake adjustment gauge to measure the
inside diameter of the drum and the diameter of the shoes. Lengthen the adjuster
until the clearance between the rear brake shoes and the rear brake drum is
0.030 in (0.76 mm).
11. Install the rear brake drum.
Wheel Cylinders
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Install:
1. Position the wheel cylinder on the backing plate. Install the mounting bolts.
Tighten to 13 ft lb (18 Nm).
2. Remove the brake line fitting plug.
3. Connect the brake line to the wheel cylinder.
Tighten to 14 ft lb (19 Nm).
4. Install the rear brake shoes.
5. Bleed the brake system.
6. Adjust and bleed the brakes.
7. Refill the master cylinder.
Parking Brake
Parking Brake Shoes
Removal & Installation
Single Shoe
To Remove:
1. Safely raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
The tire and the wheel assembly
Caliper and mounting bracket assembly
A. Relieve the tension on the parking brake cable by loosening the
nut at the equalizer.
The park brake cable from the park brake actuator lever
The rear rotor
Rear axle shaft
Parking brake shoes removal
3. Turn the adjustment screw (A) to the fully home position in the notched
adjustment nut
4. The park brake shoe assembly from the backing plate
Remove the tips from the slots and sliding the shoe (B) towards the
retaining spring (C) until The shoe disengages from the spring
5. The park brake shoe assembly from the vehicle
Place one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotate
the shoe until it has cleared the flange
To Install:
1. Clean the debris and the dust from the park brake components using a clean
shop cloth
2. Align the slots in both the adjusting screw and tappet to be parallel with the
backing plate face
3. Install the park brake shoe assembly to the vehicle by placing one of the open
ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotating the shoe until it is behind the
flange
4. Position the park brake shoe on the inboard side of the actuator
5. Slide the park brake shoe into position and seat into the retaining spring
6. Inspect the shoe assembly position
NOTE: The shoe must be central on the backing plate with both tips located in
the slots.
7. Adjust the park brake shoe
8. Install or connect the following:
The rotor
The park brake cable to the park brake actuator lever and tighten the nut
to 31 inch. lbs (3.5 Nm)
The wheel and tire assembly
9. Lower the vehicle
Dual shoes
To Remove:
Parking brake shoes
Adjustment
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7. Set the brake drum measuring gauge inside of the parking brake drum at the
widest point.
8. Tighten the set screw on the measuring tool to lock it at the widest point.
9. Position the measuring gauge over the park brake shoe at the widest point.
10. Turn the adjuster on the actuator until the clearance between the parking brake
shoe and the rotor is .026 inches (0.660 mm).
11. Install the brake rotors.
12. Install both rear caliper and bracket assemblies.
13. Install the rear wheel and tire assemblies.
14. Adjust the parking brake cable.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
3. On 1500 series vehicles pull down in front of the equalizer and remove the left
cable from the equalizer bar.
4. On 25/3500 series vehicles loosen the parking brake cable tension using the
following procedure:
Pull the release handle and pull the pedal to full release position.
Hold the pedal in the released position. Pull the cable until the adjuster
removes all the cable slack, and the adjuster is fully wound.
Insert a pin punch or small screwdriver on an upward angle through the
hole in the front of the pedal assembly, past the retracted pedal drum, and
into the hole in the back of the pedal assembly.
Release the cable slowly.
3. On 1500 series vehicles pull down in front of the equalizer and remove the cable
from the equalizer bar.
4. On 25/3500 series vehicles loosen the parking brake cable tension using the
following procedure:
Pull the release handle and pull the pedal to the fully released position.
Hold the pedal in the released position. Pull the cable until the adjuster
removes all the cable slack, and the adjuster is fully wound.
Insert a pin punch or small screwdriver on an upward angle through the
hole in the front of the pedal assembly, past the retracted pedal drum, and
into the hole in the back of the pedal assembly.
6. Use the following procedure to remove the brake cable from the backing plate:
Push the spring towards the lever to compress it.
Depress the locking tabs.
Pull the cable housing out of the backing plate.
Pull the cable through the slot in the backing plate.
Remove the cable from the lever
To Install:
1. Use the following procedure to install the parking brake cable to the backing
plate:
Install the cable to the lever
Compress the spring by pushing it towards the lever.
Insert the cable through the slot in the backing plate.
Push the cable housing into the backing plate until the tabs lock into
place.
2. Install or connect the following:
Cable at the shock absorber bracket and install the bolt. Tighten to: 16 ft.
lbs (22 Nm)
Cable to the mounting bracket by pushing in until the locking tabs snap
into place
On 25/3500 series vehicles, connect the cable to the equalizer
3. On 25/3500 series vehicles, enable the parking brake cable automatic adjuster
using the following procedure:
6.
7.
8.
Position the brake cable into the rear brake cable mounting bracket.
Push the cable into the bracket until the tabs are locked.
Install the parking brake cable to the lever.
Install the rear parking brake cable bracket bolt.
Tighten to: 45 ft. lbs (61 Nm).
Position the parking brake cable to the lower shock absorber mount. Install the
mounting bolt.
Tighten to: 16 ft. lbs (22 Nm).
Install the cable though the body mounts and guides.
Pull down on the parking brake cable in front of the equalizer and install the left
parking brake cable to the equalizer bar.
Lower the vehicle.
7. Using special tool J 37043 or equivalent, remove the parking brake cable from
the backing plate.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
3. On 1500 series vehicles pull down in front of the equalizer and remove the cable
from the equalizer bar.
4. On 25/3500 series vehicles loosen the parking brake cable tension using the
following procedure:
Pull the release handle and pull the pedal to the full release position.
Hold the pedal in the released position. Pull the cable until the adjuster
removes all the cable slack, and the adjuster is fully wound.
Insert a pin punch or small screwdriver on an upward angle through the
hole in the front of the pedal assembly, past the retracted pedal drum, and
into the hole in the back of the pedal assembly.
Release the cable slowly.
On 25/3500 series vehicles, disconnect the parking brake equalizer
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
Remove the rear cable from the rear axle clip
To Install:
1. Use the following procedure to install the parking brake cable to the backing
plate:
Install the cable to the lever
Compress the spring by pushing it towards the lever.
Insert the cable through the slot in the backing plate.
Push the cable housing into the backing plate until the tabs lock into
place.
2. Install or connect the following:
Install the cable to the mounting bracket. Push the cable in until the
locking tabs snap into place
Bolt the cable to differential clips.
A. Tighten to: 16 ft. lbs (22 Nm).
3. On 25/3500 series vehicles, connect the cable to the equalizer
4. On 25/3500 series vehicles, enable the parking brake cable automatic adjuster
using the following procedure:
Hold the park brake pedal in fully released position.
Pull the front parking brake cable rearward to release the pin punch or
screwdriver that was installed through the holes in the pedal assembly.
Remove the pin punch or screwdriver.
Slowly release the park brake cable until it returns to its original position.
Release the park brake pedal.
Lower the vehicle.
Apply and release the park brake pedal to ensure that there is no binding
or sticking.
5. On 15 series vehicles, Pull down on the cable in front of the equalizer and install
the cable to the equalizer bar.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Adjust the parking brake cable.
Right Rear w/Disc Brakes (w/4 wheel steering)
To Remove:
1. Release the parking brake
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle
Intermediate parking brake cable removal
3. Remove the parking brake cable tension by pulling down on the front of the
equalizer and removing the right cable from the equalizer bar.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
Remove the rear cable from the mounting bracket
9. Using special tool J 37043 or equivalent, remove the parking brake cable from
the backing plate.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Adjustment
First Design
1. Tighten the equalizer nut to 31 in lb (3.5 Nm).
2. Apply and release the parking brake pedal 3 times.
Second Design
1. Release the parking brake.
2. Pull the release handle and pull the pedal to full release position, at the same
time pull the cable through the cable housing.
3. Hold the pedal in the released position. Pull the cable until the adjuster removes
all the cable slack, and the adjuster is fully wound.
4. Keep tension on the front cable and install a pin through the hole in the cover,
pedal, past the adjuster, and into the hole mounting bracket.
5. Release the cable.
CAUTION
Do not reuse the EBCM mounting bolts. Always install new bolts.
5. Clean the EBCM to BPMV mounting surfaces.
To Install:
CAUTION
Do not use RTV or any other type of sealant on the EBCM gasket or mating surfaces.
1. Install or connect the following:
EBCM onto BPMV.
CAUTION
Do not reuse the old mounting bolts. Always install new EBCM bolts with
the new BPMV.
To Install:
CAUTION
Do not use RTV or any other type of sealant on the EBCM gasket or mating surfaces.
1. Install or connect the following:
EBCM onto BPMV.
CAUTION
Do not reuse the old mounting bolts. Always install new EBCM bolts with
the new BPMV.
W/JL4
CAUTION
When adding fluid to the brake master cylinder reservoir, use only Delco Supreme 11
GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a
clean, sealed brake fluid container. The use of any type of fluid other than the
recommended type of brake fluid, may cause contamination which could result in
damage to the internal rubber seals and/or rubber linings of hydraulic brake system
components.
CAUTION
The following procedures may be performed on vehicles equipped with option code JL4,
Vehicle Stability Enhancement System (VSES).
Pre-charge Bleed
The Pre-charge bleed procedure is to be performed when air may have been introduced
into the precharge pump inlet hose, the precharge pump or the combination valve.
Perform the procedure as follows.
CAUTION
If the brake system warning lamp is illuminated. DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven
until the concern is diagnosed and repaired. Refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes in
Hydraulic Brakes.
1. Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir is filled to at least the minimum-fill level
with Delco Supreme 11, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or
equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container.
2. Ensure the master cylinder reservoir cap is ON.
3. Install a scan tool.
4. Turn the ignition ON.
5. Select the VSES Special Functions menu on the scan tool.
6. Select Pre-charge Bleed.
7. Press the On key. The precharge pump runs for approximately 3 seconds.
8. Evaluate the feel of the brake pedal. If the pedal feels spongy, bleed the
hydraulic brake system.
9. Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir is filled to at least the minimum-fill level
with Delco Supreme 11, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or
equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container.
Automated Bleed
The Automated Bleed procedure is to be performed when the Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve (BPMV) is replaced. Perform the procedure as follows.
CAUTION
The base brake system must be bled before proceeding. Refer to Hydraulic Brake
System Bleeding (Manual) or Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Pressure) in Hydraulic
Brakes.
CAUTION
If the brake system warning lamp is illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven
until the concern is diagnosed and repaired. Refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes in
Hydraulic Brakes.
1. Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir is filled to at least the minimum-fill level
with Delco Supreme 11, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or
equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container.
2. Ensure the master cylinder reservoir cap is ON securely.
3. Install a scan tool.
4. Turn ON the ignition.
5. Select the VSES Special Functions menu on the scan tool.
6. Select Pre-charge Bleed.
7. Press the On key. The precharge pump runs for approximately 3 seconds,
circulating fluid from the master cylinder fluid reservoir, through the precharge
pump and combination valve, then back to the master cylinder.
8. Select Automated Bleed.
9. Press the On key. The precharge pump and ABS pump run for approximately 6
seconds while air is purged from the BPMV.
10. Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir is filled to at least the minimum-fill level
with Delco Supreme 11, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or
equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container.
11. Perform a base brake system bleed. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding
(Manual) or Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Pressure) in Hydraulic Brakes.
12. Evaluate the feel of the brake pedal. If the pedal feels spongy, repeat steps 1-11.
If the pedal feel is acceptable, proceed to the next step.
13. Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir is filled to at least the minimum-fill level
with Delco Supreme 11, GM P/N 12377967 (Canadian P/N 992667), or
equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container.
Speed Sensors
Removal & Installation
Front
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Remove the WSS cable clip from the upper control arm.
Remove the WSS cable clip from the frame.
Remove the WSS cable electrical connector.
Remove the WSS mounting bolt.
CAUTION
Carefully remove the sensor by pulling it straight out of the bore. DO NOT use a
screwdriver, or other device to pry the sensor out of the bore. Prying will cause
the sensor body to break off in the bore.
To Install:
1. Seal the WSS bore to prevent dirt or debris from falling into the hub.
2. Clean the mounting surface on the hub to remove any rust or corrosion.
3. Apply wheel bearing lubricant, GM P/N 01051344 or equivalent to the hub
surface and the sensor O-ring to ease sensor installation.
4. Install the WSS into the hub/bearing assembly.
5. WSS sensor must be seated flat against the hub.
6. Install the WSS mounting bolt.
Tighten to 13 ft lbs (18 Nm).
7. Install the WSS cable mounting clips.
8. Connect the WSS cable electrical connector.
9. Install the brake rotor.
10. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
11. Perform a low speed test for proper operation:
Start the engine and allow it to idle.
Verify the ABS indicator or the traction assist indicator remains
illuminated.
If the ABS indicator or the traction assist indicator remains illuminated,
DO NOT proceed to drive the vehicle until it is diagnosed and repaired.
Check the wheel speed sensor electrical connector to ensure it is not
damaged and is installed properly. If the lamp remains illuminated,
diagnostics are required.
Select a smooth, dry, clean, and level road or large lot that is as free of
traffic and obstacles as possible.
Drive the vehicle and maintain a speed of at least 16 km/h (10 mph) for at
least 5 seconds.
Stop the vehicle and check to see if the ABS indicator or the traction
assist indicator is illuminated.
If an indicator is illuminated, diagnostics are required.
Rear
The powertrain control module (PCM) uses the transmission mounted vehicle speed
sensor (VSS) for rear wheel speed input signals. The PCM then sends this information to
the EBCM to use for ABS control.
To avoid the possibility of fire and personal injury, always disconnect the negative
battery cable unless the repair or test procedure requires that battery voltage be
applied.
Handle the electronic throttle control components carefully. Use cleanliness in
order to prevent damage. Do not drop the electronic throttle control components.
Do not roughly handle the electronic throttle control components. Do not immerse
the electronic throttle control components in cleaning solvents of any type.
Always relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting any fuel system
component (injector, fuel rail, pressure regulator, etc.), fitting or fuel line
connection. Exercise extreme caution whenever relieving fuel system pressure,
to avoid exposing skin, face and eyes to fuel spray. Please be advised that fuel
under pressure may penetrate the skin or any part of the body that it contacts.
Always place a shop towel or cloth around the fitting or connection prior to
loosening to absorb any excess fuel due to spillage. Ensure that all fuel spillage
(should it occur) is quickly removed from engine surfaces. Ensure that all fuel
soaked cloths or towels are deposited into a suitable waste container.
Always keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
Do not allow fuel spray or fuel vapors to come into contact with a spark or open
flame.
Wear eye protection when servicing the air conditioning refrigerant system.
Serious eye injury can result from eye contact with refrigerant. If eye contact is
made, seek medical attention immediately.
Do not expose refrigerant to open flame. Poisonous gas is created when
refrigerant is burned. An electronic type leak detector is recommended.
Large amounts of refrigerant released in a closed work area will displace the
oxygen and cause suffocation.
The evaporation rate of refrigerant at average temperature and altitude is
extremely high. As a result, anything that comes in contact with the refrigerant
will freeze. Always protect skin or delicate objects from direct contact with
refrigerant. R-134a service equipment or vehicle A/C system should not be
pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air.
Some mixtures of air and R-134a have been shown to be combustible at
elevated pressures. These mixtures are potentially dangerous and may result in
fire or explosion causing injury or property damage.
Antifreeze is an ethylene glycol base coolant and is harmful if swallowed or
inhaled. Seek medical attention immediately if swallowed or inhaled. Do not store
in open or unmarked containers. Wash skin and clothing thoroughly after coming
in contact with ethylene glycol. Keep out of reach of children and pets.
Do not open a cooling system when the engine is at running temperature.
Personal injury can result.
Kinks in the refrigerant tubing or sharp bends in the refrigerant hose lines will
greatly reduce the capacity of the entire system.
High pressures are produced in the system when it is operating. Extreme care
must be exercised to make sure that all connections are pressure tight. Dirt and
moisture can enter the system when it is opened for repair or replacement of
lines or components. The refrigerant oil will absorb moisture readily out of the air.
This moisture will convert into acids within a closed system.
The system must be completely empty before opening any fitting or connection in
the refrigeration system. Open fittings with caution even after the system has
been emptied. If any pressure is noticed as a fitting is loosened, retighten fitting
and evacuate the system again.
A good rule for the flexible hose lines is to keep the radius of all bends at least 10
times the diameter of the hose. Sharper bends will reduce the flow of refrigerant.
The flexible hose lines should be routed so they are at least 3 in. (80 mm) from
the exhaust manifold. Inspect all flexible hose lines to make sure they are in good
condition and properly routed.
The use of correct wrenches when making connections is very important.
Improper wrenches or improper use of wrenches can damage the fittings.
The internal parts of the A/C system will remain stable as long as moisture-free
refrigerant and refrigerant oil is used. Abnormal amounts of dirt, moisture or air
can upset the chemical stability. This may cause operational troubles or even
serious damage if present in more than very small quantities.
When opening a refrigeration system, have everything you will need to repair the
system ready. This will minimize the amount of time the system must be opened.
Cap or plug all lines and fittings as soon as they are opened. This will help
prevent the entrance of dirt and moisture. All new lines and components should
be capped or sealed until they are ready to be used.
All tools, including the refrigerant dispensing manifold, the manifold gauge set,
and test hoses should be kept clean and dry
General Troubleshooting
Leak Testing
WARNING
Never leak test the A/C system with compressed air. A mixture of air and R-134A can
become combustible at high pressure. This mixture may result in fire or explosion
causing injury and/or property damage.
NOTE: Fluorescent refrigerant system dye is added to the refrigerant system at the
factory to assist in refrigerant system leak diagnosis using a Rotunda approved
ultraviolet black-light. It is not necessary to add additional dye to the refrigerant system
before diagnosing leaks, even if a significant amount of refrigerant has been removed
from the system.
A/C system service requires the use of a manifold gauge set with vacuum pump or a
refrigerant recovery/recycling station. The best way to determine if the system has a leak
is to evacuate the refrigerant from the vehicle into a refrigerant recovery/recycling
station. Once the refrigerant has been recovered the refrigerant recovery/recycling
station will pull a vacuum on the system. Isolate the A/C system by closing the valves
when the vacuum reaches -26 in. Hg (-88 kPa). A leak free system should be able to
hold vacuum for at least 15 minutes or more. If you can not reach the vacuum specified,
air is leaking into the system, and the source must be located and repaired.
Leaks will most likely occur at hose fittings and connections. A leak can also occur at the
compressor shaft seal at the front of the compressor. The A/C system contains
refrigerant oil mixed with refrigerant. Look for oily deposits at hose and pipe connections
that indicate a leak. Commercial electronic refrigerant leak detectors are available from
tool suppliers. Follow the manufactures instructions when using these tools.
The use of the cleaning system will vary slightly depending on how the A/C system is
designed. Cleaning the evaporator core and housing generally involves spraying a
cleaning solution into the housing and allowing the solution to soak for a period of time.
The solution is then rinsed out with water. On some vehicles, the blower resistor can be
removed from the housing under the hood and the solution can be sprayed in the
resistor hole. On other vehicles, a hole must be drilled on the housing and patched with
silicone or putty when the cleaning operation is completed. Evaporator cleaning systems
vary. Always follow the instructions that come with the kit.
Troubleshooting by Symptom
Poor Heater System Performance
1. Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle. Does the engine reach normal
operating temperature? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 8.
2. Allow the engine to idle. Select the FLOOR mode. Select the minimum blower
speed and the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and
outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Does the inlet heater hose feel warmer
than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to step 6. If no, go to the next step.
3. Install a thermometer into the center instrument panel air outlet. Secure a
thermometer to the heater core outlet heater hose. Select the PANEL mode.
Select the maximum blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting.
Record the temperature at the center instrument panel air outlet and at the heater
core outlet heater hose. Are the two temperature readings about equal? If yes, go
to the next step. If no, go to step 5.
4. Inspect and repair the cowl, recirculation door, and the HVAC module case for
cold air leaks. If problems are found and repaired, go to step 9.
5. Inspect the temperature door operation. Perform any necessary repairs. When
repairs are made, go to step 9.
6. Turn OFF the engine. Back flush the heater core. Start the engine. Select the
FLOOR mode and the lowest blower speed. Select the warmest temperature
setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater
core. Does the inlet heater hose feel warmer than the outlet heater hose? If yes,
go to the next step. If no, go to step 9.
7. Replace the heater core. When the repair is complete, go to step 9.
8. Repair the low engine temperature concern. When the repair is complete, go to
step 9.
9. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system operates properly,
the repair is complete. If the heater still does not work properly, repeat the entire
procedure.
Insufficient Defrosting
1. Start the engine, select the DEFROST mode, and select the maximum blower
speed. Does sufficient air flow from the defroster outlets? If yes, go to the next
step. If there is insufficient airflow, go to step 9.
2. Measure the engine operating temperature. Does the engine reach normal
operating temperature? If yes, go to the next step. If the engine does not reach
normal operating temperature, go to step 7.
3. Select the minimum blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Feel
the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Does the
inlet heater hose feel warmer than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to step 10. If
the hose temperature is not right, go to the next step.
4. Test the operation of the A/C compressor clutch. Does the A/C compressor
clutch engage? If yes, go to the next step. If the compressor clutch does not
engage, go to step 6.
5. Repair or replace the A/C compressor clutch. When the repair is complete, go to
step 13.
6. Perform the "A/C System Performance Test" found in this section. Is the A/C
system operating within the specifications? If yes, go to step 8. If no, go to step
11.
7. Repair the low engine temperature concern. When the repair is complete, go to
step 13.
8. Inspect for correct operation of the recirculation door. If the door is operating
correctly, go to step 13. If the door is not operating properly, go to step 12.
9. Repair the air delivery concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
10. Repair the heating concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
11. Repair the A/C performance concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
12. Repair the recirculation door concern. When the repair is complete, go to step 13.
13. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system is operating
properly, the procedure is complete. If the system is still not providing proper
defrosting, repeat the entire test.
Noise from Blower Motor
1. Inspect the air inlet grille for debris. If the grille has debris, go to step 7. If the
grille is clear, go to the next step.
2. Sit inside the vehicle, close the vehicle doors and windows, turn ON the ignition,
with the engine OFF, and cycle the blower motor through all of the speeds in
order to determine where and when the noise occurs. If there was noise during
the blower operation, go to the next step. If there is no noise, go to step 10.
3. Inspect for excessive vibration at each blower motor speed by feeling the blower
case. If there is vibration, go to step 6. If no vibration is present, go to the next
step.
4. Listen to the blower motor at each blower speed. Is the blower motor making a
squeaking or chirping noise? If yes, go to step 8. If no noise exists, go to step 10.
5. Remove the blower motor, and inspect the blower motor and impeller for deposits
of foreign material. If there is debris, go to step 7. If there is no debris, go to the
next step.
6. Inspect the blower motor for cracked blades, loose impeller retainer, or improper
impeller alignment. If any of these conditions exist, go to step 8. If none of these
exist, go to step 9.
7. Remove the foreign material. When complete, go to the next step.
8. Replace the blower motor. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
9. Install the blower motor. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
10. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the condition has been
corrected, the repair is complete. If noise still exists, repeat the entire procedure.
Noise from A/C System
NOTE: Noise from the A/C system may be heard as squealing, chirping or moaning
noises, or as a vibration noise.
1. Start the engine and ensure the A/C system is ON. If any noise is heard when the
system engages, go to the next step. If no noises are heard at this point, go to
step 8.
2. With the engine OFF, inspect the drive belt for excessive wear. If the belt is
excessively worn, go to step 17. If the belt is not worn, go to the next step.
3. Inspect the drive belt tension. If the tension is correct, go to the next step. If the
tension is not correct, go to step 18.
4. Inspect the drive belt for excessive oil coverage. If the belt is covered with oil, go
to step 16. If there is no oil present, go to the next step.
5. Start the engine, ensure the A/C system is ON, and visually inspect the
compressor and the clutch. If the compressor appears locked up, go to step 23. If
the compressor and clutch appear okay, go to the next step.
6. If the compressor clutch is slipping, go to step 22. If the clutch is not slipping, go
to the next step.
7. Using a stethoscope, listen to the A/C compressor for any abnormal noise. If
noise appears to be caused by the compressor, go the step 14. If the compressor
is not the cause of the noise, go to step 9.
8. Does a moaning noise exist when the A/C clutch is engaged? If yes, go to the
next step. If no, go the step 11.
9. Listen to the A/C compressor components and mounting for noise concerns
using a stethoscope. Are any of these components loose, damaged or
excessively worn? If yes, go to step 19. If no, go to the next step.
10. Idle the engine and engage the A/C compressor clutch. Using a stethoscope,
move around the entire refrigerant plumbing system. Listening for any abnormal
noises caused by a component of the A/C system touching another component.
Are any of the A/C components grounding out and causing a vibration noise? If
yes, go to step 21. If no, go to step 12.
11. Does a vibration or rattle noise exist when the A/C clutch is engaged? If yes, go
to the next step. If no, go to step 13.
12. Does the noise stop when the A/C clutch is disengaged? If yes, go to step 14. If
no, go to step 24.
13. Idle the engine in PARK with the A/C compressor clutch engaged. Using a
stethoscope, move around the entire A/C system testing for any abnormal noises
caused by a component. Do any of the A/C components cause an abnormal
noise? If yes, go to step 20. If no, go to step 24.
14. Verify that the A/C system is properly charged. If it is properly charged, go to step
25. If not properly charged, go to the next step.
15. Recharge the A/C system to specification. Is the abnormal compressor noise still
present? If yes, go to step 23. If no, go to step 25.
16. Repair the oil leak. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
17. Replace the drive belt. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
18. Replace the drive belt tensioner. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
19. Repair or replace the A/C compressor mounting component. When the repair is
complete, go to step 25.
20. Repair or replace the component that is causing the moaning concern as
needed. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
21. Correctly route or insulate the A/C component. When the repair is complete, go
to step 25.
22. Replace the A/C compressor clutch. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
23. Replace the A/C compressor. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
24. The concern may be caused by an engine related component. If the concern is
found and repaired, go to step 25.
25. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system is okay, the repair
is complete. If not, repeat the entire procedure.
To Remove:
CAUTION
Do not apply power to the actuator when it is removed from the HVAC module.
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Remove:
CAUTION
Do not apply power to the actuator when it is removed from the HVAC module.
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Remove:
CAUTION
Do not apply power to the actuator when it is removed from the HVAC module.
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Mode Actuator
Mode Actuator Replacement
To Remove:
CAUTION
Do not apply power to the actuator when it is removed from the HVAC module.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Install:
1. Position the mode actuator with the actuator cam to the HVAC module.
Align the heater/defroster valve lever with the cam slot
Align the A/C valve lever with the cam
2. Install the mode actuator mounting screws.
3. Connect the mode actuator electrical connection.
4. Install the center console duct and the center console (if equipped).
5. Install the floor air outlet duct extension to the floor air duct.
6. Calibrate the actuator.
To Remove:
CAUTION
Do not apply power to the actuator when it is removed from the HVAC module.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Visteon
Recirculation Actuator Replacement (Visteon)
To Remove:
CAUTION
Do not apply power to the actuator when it is removed from the HVAC module.
1. Remove the HVAC module assembly.
2. Remove the evaporator core cover from the HVAC module.
3. Remove the recirculation actuator from the HVAC module assembly.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Calibration
To Calibrate:
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Remove the fuse from the HVAC control module positive circuit.
NOTE: The fuse must be removed for more than 60 seconds to clear the control
module memory.
3. Wait at least 60 seconds.
4. Install the fuse.
Blower Motor
Removal & Installation
Delphi
Blower Motor Replacement (Delphi)
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Position the blower motor and turn assembly clockwise until tab locks in place.
Install the blower motor insulating cover.
Connect the electrical connector to the blower motor.
Install the instrument panel sound insulator panel (if equipped).
Visteon
Blower Motor Replacement (Visteon)
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1. Position the blower motor and install mounting screws.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the blower motor.
3. Install the instrument panel sound insulator panel (if equipped).
Compressor
Removal & Installation
6.6L Engine
Denso
To Remove:
1. Recover the refrigerant.
2. Release the drive belt tensioner.
3. Remove the drive belt from the A/C compressor.
4. Remove the discharge hose assembly bolt from the compressor.
5. Remove the compressor discharge hose from the compressor.
6. Remove the suction hose assembly bolt from the compressor.
7. Remove the compressor suction hose from the compressor.
8. Disconnect the electrical connector from the compressor.
9. Discard the sealing washers and cap hoses.
10. Disconnect the electrical connector.
11. Remove the compressor mounting bolts.
12. Remove the compressor from bracket.
13. Drain and measure the amount of oil contained in the old compressor.
To Install:
NOTE: New compressor assemblies may be pre-filled with 8 oz. of refrigerant oil. If
replacing the compressor, refer to Compressor Oil Balancing .
1. Install the compressor.
Tighten the mounting bolts to 37 lb ft (50 Nm).
2. Install new sealing washers on the compressor ports.
3. Install the A/C compressor hoses on the compressor.
Tighten the bolts to 12 lb ft (16 Nm).
4. Connect the compressor clutch electrical connector.
5. Install the drive belt on the A/C compressor.
6. Evacuate and charge the refrigerant system.
7. Leak test the fittings of the reinstalled component using a commercially available
leak tester.
Delphi/Harrison
To Remove:
1. Recover the refrigerant.
2. Release the drive belt tensioner.
3. Remove the drive belt from the A/C compressor.
4. Remove the compressor hose assembly bolt from the compressor.
5. Remove the compressor hose assembly from the compressor.
6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the compressor.
7. Discard the sealing washers and cap hoses.
8. Disconnect the electrical connector.
9. Remove the compressor mounting bolts.
10. Remove the compressor from bracket.
11. Drain and measure the amount of oil contained in the old compressor.
To Install:
NOTE: New compressor assemblies may be pre-filled with 8 oz. of refrigerant oil. If
replacing the compressor, refer to Compressor Oil Balancing.
1. Install the compressor.
Tighten the mounting bolts to 37 lb ft (50 Nm).
2. Install new sealing washers on the compressor ports.
3. Install the A/C compressor hose assembly on the compressor.
Tighten the bolt to 25 lb ft (34 Nm).
4. Connect the compressor clutch electrical connector.
5. Install the drive belt on the A/C compressor.
6. Evacuate and charge the refrigerant system.
7. Leak test the fittings of the reinstalled component using a commercially available
leak tester.
Compressor Clutch
Removal & Installation
Delphi/Harrison
To Remove:
1. Clamp a J 34992 or appropriate holding fixture in a vise.
2. Use thumb screws in order to attach the compressor to the holding fixture.
NOTE: Do not drive or pound on the clutch hub or shaft. Internal damage to the
compressor may result.
Compressor clutch plate and hub assembly
3. Ensure that the center screw forces the tip to thrust against the end of the shaft.
4. Thread a J 33013-B remover/installer tool or equivalent onto the hub.
5. While holding the body of the remover with a wrench, turn the center screw into
the remover body in order to remove the clutch plate and hub assembly (1).
6. Remove the shaft key.
7. Retain the shaft key for reassembly.
8. Remove the rotor and bearing assembly retaining ring.
9. Install the J 33023-A to the front head.
10. Install the J 33020 into the inner circle of slots in the rotor.
11. Turn the J 33020 clockwise in the slots in order to engage the tangs of the puller
with the segments between the slots in the rotor.
12. Hold the J 33020 in place. Tighten the puller screw against the guide to remove
the puller rotor and bearing assembly.
13. Mark the location of the clutch coil terminal on the compressor front head.
14. Install the J 33023-A on the front head of the compressor.
15. Install the J 8433-1 and J 8433-3 with J 33025 on the compressor.
16. Tighten the J 8433-3 against the J 33023-A in order to remove the clutch coil.
To Install:
1. Place the clutch coil assembly on the compressor with the terminals positioned at
the marked location.
2. Place the J 33024 over the internal opening of the clutch coil housing.
3. Align the J 33024 with the compressor front head.
4. Center the J 8433-1 on the countersunk center hole of the J 33024.
5. Install the through bolts and washers of the J 34992 through the slots in the J
8433-1.
6. Thread the through bolts into the J 33025 in order to achieve full fixture
thickness.
NOTE: Make sure that the clutch coil and the J 33024 stay in-line during the
installation.
7. Turn the J 8433-3 of the J 8433-1 in order to force the clutch coil onto the head.
8. With the compressor still mounted to the J 34992 and the coil seated on the front
head, stake the front head using a drift punch with a diameter of 0.125 in (3.175
mm).
9. Stake the front head at 3 places 120 degrees apart in order to ensure that the
clutch coil remains in position. Ensure that the stake size is only one half of the
area of the punch tip and only 0.010-0.015 in (0.28-0.35 mm) in depth.
10. With the compressor mounted to the holding fixture, position the rotor and
bearing assembly on the front head.
11. Position the J 33017 and the J 33023-A directly over the inner race of the
bearing.
12. Position the J 8433-1 on the J 33023-A.
13. Assemble the 2 through bolts and the washers of the holding fixture through the
slots of the J 8433-1.
14. Thread the bolts into the holding fixture. Make sure that the thread of the through
bolts engages the full thickness of the J 34992.
15. Tighten the J 8433-3 in the J 8433-1 in order to force the pulley rotor and bearing
assembly onto the front of the compressor.
16. If the J 33017 slips off direct, in-line contact with inner face of the bearing,
perform the following:
17. Loosen the J 8433-3
18. Realign the J 33017 and the J 33023-A to ensure that the installer clears the front
head.
19. Install the rotor and bearing assembly retainer ring.
20. Install the shaft key into the hub key groove.
21. Allow the key to project approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in) out of the keyway. The
shaft key curves slightly in order to provide interference fit in the hub key groove.
22. Clean the clutch plate and clutch rotor.
23. Align the shaft key with the shaft keyway.
24. Place the clutch plate and the hub assembly (1) onto the compressor shaft.
25. Remove the forcing tip on the J 33013 remover or equivalent.
26. Reverse the body direction on the center screw.
27. Install the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent with the bearing.
28. Back off the body of the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent as
necessary in order to permit the center screw to be threaded onto the end of the
compressor shaft.
29. Hold the center screw with a wrench.
30. Tighten the hex portion of the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent in
order to press the hub onto the shaft.
31. Tighten the body several turns.
32. Remove the installer. Ensure that the shaft key remains in place in the keyway.
33. Install the clutch plate and hub assembly to the final position. Ensure that the air
gap between frictional surfaces of the clutch plate and clutch rotor measures
within 0.50-0.76 mm (0.020-0.030 in).
34. Remove the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent.
35. Verify proper positioning of the shaft key. Ensure that the shaft key is even with
or slightly above the clutch hub.
36. Spin the pulley rotor by hand in order to verify that the rotor does not rub against
the clutch drive plate.
Denso
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7. Ensure that the air gap between the pulley and the drive plate measures within
0.35-0.65 mm (0.014-0.026 in).
8. Install the clutch plate retaining bolt
Torque bolt to 13 ft lb (18 Nm).
Condenser
Removal & Installation
2000-2007
To Remove:
1. Recover the refrigerant from the A/C system.
2. Remove the grille.
3. Remove the tie bar to radiator brace bolts that are accessible from the rear of the
upper radiator support.
4. Remove the hood latch support bracket lower bolts.
5. Disconnect the compressor discharge hose from the condenser.
6. Disconnect the evaporator tube from the condenser.
7. Remove the insulator retainer bolts and upper insulator retainers.
8. Remove the condenser from the vehicle.
9. Cap the open refrigerant lines to prevent moisture and dirt from entering.
To Install:
1. If replacing the condenser, add new refrigerant oil to the condenser. Add 1 oz. or
the amount drained from the old condenser.
2. Install the condenser to the vehicle.
3. Install the upper insulator retainers and bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 21 in lb (24 Nm).
4. Connect the evaporator tube to the condenser using new sealing washers.
5. Install the evaporator tube nut to the condenser.
Tighten the nut to 12 ft lb (24 Nm).
6. Connect the A/C compressor discharge hose to the condenser using new sealing
washers.
Tighten the nut to 12 lb ft (16 Nm).
7. Install hood latch lower support bracket bolts.
8. Install grille.
9. Evacuate and recharge the A/C system.
10. Leak test the fittings.
Evaporator
Removal & Installation
Delphi
Evaporator core removal (Delphi)
To Remove:
1. Remove the HVAC housing assembly.
2. Remove heat stakes (if equipped) from the HVAC housing with a screwdriver and
hammer.
3. Remove the screws (if equipped) from the HVAC module assembly.
4. Remove the evaporator cowl gasket from the evaporator.
5. Separate the upper and lower HVAC module assemblies.
6. Remove the evaporator core.
To Install:
1. If replacing the evaporator, add refrigerant oil to the evaporator.
NOTE: Add 3 oz. of refrigerant oil or the amount drained from the evaporator if it
is greater then 3 oz.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Visteon
Evaporator core removal (Visteon)
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Install:
1. If replacing the evaporator, add refrigerant oil to the evaporator.
NOTE: Add 3 oz. of refrigerant oil or the amount drained from the evaporator if it
is greater then 3 oz.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
HVAC Module
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
To Install:
1. Install the HVAC assembly into the vehicle.
Tighten the nuts to 80 lb in (9 Nm) and the screws to 35 lb in (4 Nm).
2. Connect the electrical connections and ground connections.
3. Install the evaporator drain hose (If equipped with A/C).
4. Install the instrument panel carrier.
5. Install the accumulator (if equipped with A/C).
6. Connect the hoses to the heater core.
7. Refill the cooling system.
8. Evacuate and recharge the A/C system (if equipped with A/C).
9. Install the auxiliary battery (if equipped).
10. Inspect the system for leaks.
To Install:
1. Uncap the evaporator tube.
2. Lubricate the new O-ring using new 525 viscosity refrigerant oil and install the
seal.
3. Insert the long screen end of the new orifice into the evaporator tube.
4. Connect the evaporator tube at the fitting.
Tighten the fitting to 18 ft lb (25 Nm).
5. Evacuate and recharge the A/C system.
6. Leak test the fittings with an electronic leak detector.
Accumulator
Removal & Installation
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Heater System
Heater Core
Removal & Installation
Heater core removal
To Remove:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
To Install:
1.
2.
3.
4.
To Remove:
1. Remove the right front park/turn signal housing.
2. Disconnect the ambient air temperature sensor electrical connector.
3. Remove the ambient air temperature sensor.
To Install:
1. Install the ambient air temperature sensor.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the ambient air temperature sensor.
3. Install the right front park/turn signal housing.
A/C SPECIFICATIONS