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“Shade Gardening”

An introduction to proper practices for shade gardening

June 12, 2010

Presented By

James Kerr, CNLP, BSLD

1051 US Highway 202, Ringoes, NJ 08551 (908) 788-2600

Getting to understand Shade Gardens
As we all know from being around nurseries and garden
centers we see all these colorful flowers, but the problem is
that most of these plants require full sun. What if we live in
a shady area, wooden lot perhaps, or have this certain part
of your property maybe along your house that you always
look at because nothing will produce the colors and impact
that you want it to? We all have these spots on our
properties, and I want to review with you some good
techniques to give you that “pop” or the great accent bed
that you want.

Today I will be reviewing the following:

A. Types of Shaded areas
B. Soil Preparation, fertilizing and plant spacing
A. Methods to reduce Shade
C. A selection of perennials for shade
D.Using Native plants and the benefits
 TYPES OF SHADED GARDENS

Dappled Shade: is created by a light canopy of tree

foliage, possibly a pergola. This is where a moving pattern
of sunlight and shade across the ground provides direct sun
for one or two hours a day, then the area receives bright
indirect sun during the rest of the day.

Light Shade: is also open shade because the area is open

to the sky, but hedges, walls or other structures block the
direct light. The area still receives plenty of reflected
bright light even though there is no direct sun.

Deep Shade: is basically the area that doesn’t receive any

direct sun. These areas are commonly found under
evergreens. There are plants that will grow in these areas
but very few will thrive. (Basic rules of survival and
establishment)

The most common shade terms that I hear from my

clients and are also listed on plant labels are:
Partial Sun and Partial Shade; these terms are often
used interchangeably to mean 3-6 hours of sun each day,
preferably in the morning and early
afternoon….However…..
Partial Sun definition: is that there is greater emphasis
that the plant is receiving minimal sun requirements.
Partial Shade definition: is that the plant will need some
relief from the intense late afternoon sun.

Soil Preparation, fertilizing, and plant

spacing
Proper soil preparation is vital for any type of garden, the
soil in shade gardens often have even more deficiencies
than soil in open sunny spaces.

• Soil Causing Problems: Trees, hedges, shrubs, walls

and deep/damp leaf litter
o Robs moisture, nutrients creates root competition

o Walls deflect rain water resulting in dry soil

o Deep/damp leaf litter promotes fungal diseases

and infestation of slugs and snails
Organic matter (OM): COMPOST: LEAF MOLD: PEAT it
helps the soil retain moisture in sandy soils, loosens clay
soils, improves soil drainage, and releases nutrients into
soil. Spreading a 2 inch layer of lightweight organic mulch
around the plants is a good rule of thumb. Plants in
competition with large shrubs may require more frequent
watering than areas that have a lack of sunlight, which
reduces the rate of evaporation.
Fertilizing: Shade Plants need regular fertilizing

 Shade plants have slower metabolism than that of sun-

loving plants

 Use a mild fertilizer, slow release fertilizer such as a

10-10-10 or fish emulsion mixture (liquid mixture that
provides N,P,K)
  Pay attention to plants that are acid loving use a
special fertilizer ex. Azaleas and Rhodies

Spacing of Shade Loving Plants:

 Shade plants are more sensitive to spacing reqs. than

sun loving plants

 Planting to close reduces air circulation and promotes

fungal disease such as powdery mildew.

 VERY IMPORTANT!! Don’t allow decaying leaf litter,

large pieces of bark and other debris clutter up in-
between the plants.

Methods to reduce shade

The best method to reduce deep shade to dappled shade

under trees and shrubs is by PRUNING.

 Thinning out branches opens up the canopy allowing

more light to reach the ground and increasing air
circulation

 Removed dead or diseased branches first

 Prune those that grow toward the center of the tree of

shrub

 Prune selectively until you achieve the desired amount

of shade
  Removing the lowest branches will raise the trees
canopy and permit more direct sun to reach the
ground.
Obvious Option: complete removal of large shrubs and
trees

 If they are planted to close together

 The leaf litter or the fruit that drop from the
trees/shrubs which are toxic to most plants such as the
infamous Black Walnut

Black Walnut

PROPER PRUNING TOOLS OF THE TRADE

 Anvil-Cut Pruner
Pruning Saw
Bypass Pruner

Proper Way to
Remove a Branch

a. Three-cut pruning method

1. First, create a ‘break point’ by cutting approximately
6” out from where the branch joins the main stem.
Begin by cutting at the bottom of the branch and
continue ¼ to 1/3 through the stem

2. Second, move out on the branch approximately 1-3”

from the first cut. Begin at the top of the branch and
cut through until main
 3. portion of branch falls off. Hold
the remainder of the stem in hand
to prevent tearing and finish the
cut off starting at the bark ridge on
top and following the natural line
outside the branch collar.

A selection of Plant Material for shade

Perennials and Annuals: Shade Trees and
Shrubs:

Hosta : Full Shade perennial Barberry

**

Bleeding Heart: Full Shade perennial Azaleas

Daylilly: Partial Shade perennial Flowering

Dogwoods

Foxglove: Partial Shade perennial

Rhododendrons

Coral bells: Partial Shade perennial

Hydrangea

Columbine: Partial Shade perennial Hemlock

Begonia: Full Shade Annual Flowering

Redbuds

Impatiens: Full Shade Annual Viburnums

Coleus: Full Shade Annual Witch hazel

Petunia: Partial Shade Annual Boxwoods

Sweet Alyssum: Partial Shade Annual Sweetbay

Magnolia

Gold Mop Cypress **

** NOTE: These plants will grow, however, bear in mind that they will
not show their true beauty/colors. For example, Red Barberry will
revert back to green. Gold Mop Cypress will revert back to green and
will loose their yellow color.

Using Native plants and the benefits

USING NATIVE PLANT MATERIAL EQUALS LOW
MAINTAINANCE!

 ESTABLISH TO THE NEW AREA INSTEAD OF

SURVIVING

 LESS WATERING, FERTILIZING AND GENERAL PLANT

UPKEEP

 THEY BLOOM AND GROW WITHOUT HUMAN

INTERVENTION

 FEND OFF PESTS NATURALLY, PROPAGATE WITHOUT

HELP

 MOST LIKELY DROUGHT TOLERANT; ABLE TO

WITHSTAND STRESS OF OCCASIONAL DRY PERIODS

 MOST OF ALL NATIVE PLANTS COST LESS BECAUSE

THEY GROW/TURNOVER QUICKER
Examples:
Redbud Highbush Blueberry

Serviceberry Carex/Sedge

Aronia (Chokeberry) Geranium

Sweetbay Magnolia Big Leaved Asters

 Viburnums Wild ginger

Columbine Mayapple

Jack-in- the-pulpit

Visit www.RutgersLN.com for more information on these

types of plants and other information related to the green
industry