t h e i m p o rta n c e o f w i n e i n p o rt u g u e s e c u lt u r e

p.2

2016

por MARIA JOO FERNO-PIRES (*)

2000

812

585

1143

6
7

16

1703

1756910

1856

1933

ROMAN SARCOPHAGUS - with embossed vintage scene discovered in Castanh

19
19

3Castanheira-

1874

1926
1974

1937

1986

Os contedos desta publicao foram produzidos pelo jornal MUNDO PORTUGUS para a MUNDIVENTOS Lda,
The contents of this publication were produced by the newspaper MUNDO PORTUGUS to MUNDIVENTOS Ltd
Av. Elias Garcia, 57 - 7 1049-017 Lisboa - Portugal Tel.: (+351) 21 795 76 68 /9 Fax: (+351) 21 795 76 65 redaccao@mundoportugues.org www.mundoportugues.org

the importance of wine in portuguese culture

2016

p.3

Vineyards and Wine in Portugal

Since ancient times, wine and vineyards, with all its symbolism, religion and mysticism, have been playing an import role in
almost all civilizations. As written in the religious passage, it is fruit of the earth, fruit of the vine and fruit of the work of
human hands, no other agricultural product combines so well a tasty and nourishing fruit with the precious nectar.
por MARIA JOO FERNO-PIRES (*)

Its origin in Portugal appears

to date back to about 2000 BC
when the mythic and hypothetical Tartesian civilization was
developing and using several
products as exchange currency
for metals, among which wine

velopment in Rome.
EXPANSION OF CHRISTIANITY
The great expansion of Christianity (6th and 7th centuries) was
crucial to broaden horizons of
wine, attaching a greater symbolic value to this product and
increasing its consumption.

heira do Ribatejo in the third century (National Museum of Archaeology - Lisbon)

its notoriety the wine started to

be exported in the second half
of the fourteenth century.
The Portuguese expansion (centuries XV and XVI) had a decisive role in the evolution of wine
history in Portugal. It was transported in ships and caravels, not
only for its antiseptic characteristics and to feed the armed forces, but also as a guarantee. After long trips, they noticed that
it was different and better. The
soft aging provided from the
heat from the holds that crossed
at least twice the Equator endowed the wine with unique
characteristics and allowed its
selling for fabulous prices. This
wine provided empirical knowledge of a certain type of aging,
whose scientific techniques
were to be developed later.
In the mid-sixteen century, Lisbon was the largest center of
consumption and distribution of
wine of the Empire. Portuguese
wine was delivered around the
world, emphasizing its prestige
and importance of consumption
and volume of exports.

from vineyards planted in the

Tejo and Sado valleys.
From then on and with the influence of Phoenicians, Greeks and
Celts (centuries X to IV B.C.),
who are said to have introduced
some vine varieties and probably
some barrel making techniques,
the importance of vineyards
and wine culture has gradually
grown. The development of the
Roman road system and Romanization of the Iberian Peninsula
(century II B.C. to 585 A.D.) led
to a systematic trade in Iberia divided into two provinces, Hispania Citerior (Tarraconensis) and
Hispania Ulterior (Lusitania).
Iberia represented for the Romans a reservoir of gold, silver
and copper, slaves, agricultural
products, specifically olive oil,
cereals, salt and even horses.
However, the consolidation of
wine culture and consequently,
wine production that represented a great part on military salary, were important factors for
exports, bearing the increase of
consumption caused by the de-

Meanwhile, after the Barbarian

invasions and Lusitnia dispute,
Barbarians assimilated Roman
civilization and religion and
embraced wine, considering it
as the beverage of the civilized
people. Curiously, even VIII and
XII centuries influenced by Arab
culture which forloade the consumption of fermented drinks,
grape vines and wine were kept,
due to the benevolent and protector spirit of Arab people towards farmers.
THE FOUNDATION OF
PORTUGAL
The foundation of Portugal in
1143 and the conquest of the
territory from the Moors facilitated the settlement of religious,
monastic and military Orders,
such as the Templars, Hospitallers, SantIago da Espada
and Cistercian. These were important and active agricultural
centers, vital for the expansion
and development of many wine
regions, gradually contributing
to the inclusion of wine in the
medieval mans diet. Thanks to

In 1703, wine exports reached

a new expansion phase, when
the Methwen Treaty is signed by
Portugal and England and is es-

tablished (a special regimen) for

Portuguese wine exports in exchange of English cloth and wool.
As in other aspects of national
concerns, Marqus de Pombal
had a strong influence on the
wine industry, establishing a
series of protectionist measures
targeting in particular the Alto
Douro Region and Port Wine. By
royal decree of September 10th
1756, the General Company of
Alto Douro Viticulture was created to establish the demarcation
and regulate the production and
trade of wines.
XIX THE DARK CENTURY
The 19th century was a dark
period for viticulture in Portugal due to extensive damage
caused by mildew disease first
and by phylloxera shortly after.
It emerged initially in the Douro
region in 1856 and quickly spread throughout the country, destroying most of the wine regions,
with the exception of Colares,
since phylloxera doesnt grow
on sand land where as today, its
grape vines are grown.
Once this threat was overcome,
the recovery of vineyards and
wine production began to finally go back to the limelight in
the Great Exhibition of London

in 1874. Some years later, in

1907/1908, the official regulation of other regions of origin
started, and so Madeira, Moscatel de Setbal, Carcavelos, Do,
Colares and Vinho Verde joined
Port wine and Douros table wine.
A few years later, the policy
developed by Estado Novo
(1926-1974) led to the implementation of a cooperate organization and economic coordination in the wine sector trough
the creation in 1933 of the
Federao dos Vinicultores do
Centro e Sul de Portugal that
held market regulation functions. This agency was later
replaced by the Junta Nacional
do Vinho in 1937, that had a
similar nature but had a broader
scope. Its action was focuses on
the balance between supply and
demand, studying the evolution
of production and developing
the storage of surplus in years
of great production, in order to
make up for the shortage years.
THE CREATION OF INSTITUTO DA VINHA E DO VINHO
As a result of Portugals accession to the then European Economic Community in 1986, the
Junta Nacional do Vinho was
closed down and replaced by the
Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho.

p.4

2016

3114

31

Greco-Roman Amphora, from

South of Italy and dated to III
to I b.C.

...

(*) Tcnica Superior do IVV

In ITINERANTE

the importance of wine in portuguese culture

2016

Vineyards and
Wine in Portugal
This agency, supervised by the
Ministry of Agriculture, Fishing
and Food, was already adapted
to the structures imposed by the
new market policy and began
to have action on the vineyards
and wine aiming at production control and coordination
(grapes and wine) and trading.
The adjustment of the concepts
Region of Origin and Geographical Identification to Community
laws allowed a new perspective
in Portuguese economy and in
the strengthening of a policy of
quality of Portuguese Wines.
With a view to manage, monitor
and enforce its regulations, several Regional Wine Commissions
(private law associations) were
created. These entities had functions within the control and certification of many products, playing
an important role on the increase
and development of quality and
prestige of Portuguese wines.
Currently, there are 31 Regions of
Origin and 14 Geographical Identifications recognized and protected.
In its essence, viticulture is
characterized by three key factors Terroir, Man and Tradition.
The Terroir shapes the harmony
between nature and civilization.
In a certain way, it reflects the
connection between the three elements soil, climate and grape
varieties and the human genius,
enhancing the production of wines
with pronounced character, inimitable and authentic, respecting its
origins and traditions. However,

its the Man who gives voice to the

Terroir, managing the right balance between the wine culture
and the ancient art of making
wine, contributing to the production of so many and distinguished
quality wines, so that in a global
wine market with similar wines
they can stand out for its unique,
particular and unrepeatable style.
Tradition, as a feeling, way of
thinking or acting, is perhaps the
aspect that brings us closer to the
history of each culture, reflecting
a legacy of the past, respect for
nature, its diversity and authenticity. In the specific case of wine,
these timeless values result of a
constant and perfected tradition,
built with knowledge that often
passes from generation to generation and is the pride and passion
of those who are dedicated to it.
Vineyard and wine and its relationship to the land, climate,
technology and society, invoke
functionality and dynamism worthy of note as a vast humanization agent of diverse regions,
some of them with poor agricultural soils that lack productivity.
Its a known fact that the European supports were essential for the
viability of many vineyards, from
the youngest and most modern,
with varieties selected according
to modern and old markets, with
several old varieties of low productivity but with high aromatic
concentrations. Some modern
wineries boosted the wine production and also a new genera

tion of producers and enologists

that were prepared in universities, specifically in viticulture
and enology areas, increased
the acquisition of important experiences in the wine world.
The viticultures contribution in
keeping connection between successive generations, landscape
and production methods from
earlier times, has now turned
into multiple recreational opportunities. The symbolic dimension of its connection to peoples
art and culture throughout the
years has been as influent tool
of social differentiation, not only
for its complex commercial relations, but also for the proliferation
of social and political interests.
Portugal is a peaceful country of
great natural beauty that offers
to its visitors an unsurpassable
and unexpected diversity and
quality of experiences. Secular
traditions walk side by side with
the most recent technological innovations. Its possible to find
abundant meals served almost
at every Portuguese table paired
up with good and diverse wines.
They will help you discover new
tastes and make each meal a
truly
unforgettable
moment.
The history of vineyard and wine
is the history of Mankind linked
to geo-climatic conditions, trade
and the different positions and
sensibility of each people. As they
walk side by side with Mankinds
conquests and progress, vineyards
and wine are a cultural and artistic asset, a civilization phenomenon and proof that Mans creativity has no limits

(*) Superior Tecnician of IVW

In ITINERANTE

p.5

Haltern

1
1

Haltern Amphora,
from South Spain
and dated to I b.C.
to I a.C.

Amphora upper
fragment, type
Dressel, from
Italy and dated to
I b.C. to I a.C.

Dressel

11

p.6

2016

......

A rolha de cortia desde

t

3000

301.5

1250

sid

325;

1750

1795

1795

50

the importance of wine in portuguese culture

2016

p.7

ALMOST AS IMPORTANT AS WINE

The history of the Corkscrew

Samuel Henshalls Corkscrew
created in 1795

What came first, the chicken or the egg? You can apply the
same question here: What came
first the cork or the corkscrew?
The corkscrew, indissociably linked to wine and objects
of worship, still holds many
mysteries, especially about its
origin.
Cork stoppers have been
used, since immemorial times,
to seal the nozzle of clay containers containing liquids or
other contents, to protect them
from deterioration and facilitating its transport without the risk
of spilling its content.
It is believed that in ancient
Egypt, around 3.000 B.C., clay
containers were used for wine
storage whose nozzle had a cork
stopper.
For example, millions of gallons of wine and oil circulated
throughout the Mediterranean
in amphorae that was sealed
with cork stoppers. We use the
word stoppers in a broad sense, since they were of much larger dimensions than the ones
used at the present time.
The amphorae had dimensions ranging typically between
1,50m to 30cm in height. These last ones were often used
to carry wine. In this case, the
nozzles were also bigger than
the current bottle of wine.
According to different archaeological discoveries (amphora dated back to century I
B.C. found in Ephesus; amphora discovered in the city ruins of

Regardless of the wine of your choice, opening a bottle in its best conditions is crucial to achieve
the pleasure of tasting. A glass full of cork pieces from a cork stopper is enough to ruin wine, regardless of its quality, so, there is nothing better than knowing how to use the corkscrew. Today, we
are going to tell you its interesting history
martyr Pompeii), cork has been
Wines ally and partner.
Indisputable fact is that in
ancient Egypt, around 1250
BC, small glass bottles were already manufactured, designed
to save precious perfumes.
INVENTION OF THE
CORKSCREW
On this point, opinions differ and many of those who have
written about the origin of the
corkscrew speculate that it had
a different origin. For many authors, this instrument appeared
before the advent of spread-

ing small arms (muskets, pistols and firearms)! How is it

possible?
Connoisseurs and lovers
of ancient weapons can easily confirm that these first firearms were muzzle loading (the
breech was closed). When for
some reason the shot did not occur, it was necessary to re

move the load from the barrel

(bullet, shot bushing and powder charge). It was necessary to
use a specifically designed instrument for this purpose, typically consisting of a set of two
spirals, similar to some corkscrews. This type of instrument
was known as Gun Worms and
Ram Rods.

FROM THE GIMLET TO THE

CORKSCREW
Was this how it really happened? Wasnt the gimlet (in-

strument to drill wood) created

way before firearms? It is plausible that this carpentry instrument, that also had its utility in
the cooperage industry (an art
with more than two Thousand
years of History), can be the origin of the corkscrew.
We cant ignore the fact that,
the oldest wine bottle known,
dates back much further than

firearms. According to specialists, it dates back to the year

325. It was discovered in Germany, near the city of Speyer,
in a roman legionary tomb, and
it still contains part of its original content.
The truth is, contrary to
what is often stated, long before the advent of the English
glass industry (in centuries XVII
and XVIII) the glass bottle had
been used to store wine, properly corked, in order to ensure
its preservation. Whatever the
method or technique employed,
certainly its opening would require the use of an instrument,
meaning a Corkscrew, in the
broadest sense of the term.
Wrapped in all these mysteries, and being unaware today of how theses first bottles
were opened, what we know for
sure is that with the appearance
of glass bottles in the mid XVIII
century with a standardized
shape, people started to discover the benefits of preserving wine in glass bottles sealed
with cork stoppers. The corkscrew was born.
In the XVIII century, during
the reign of Dom Joo V, glass
industry was born in Portugal
and established in Marinha
Grande. This monarch was
equally responsible for the signing of the Treaty of Madrid in
1750, which established the
modern borders of Brazil. During this period, beautiful historic cities of Minas Gerais grew.
Among them were the cities of

So Joo Del-Rei, named after the patron saint of this great

sovereign, and Mariana, in honour of the Queen.
But who actually contributed to the development of the
glass industry, particularly in
the manufacture of wine bottles, were the British. They put
both their knowledge of smelting and cutlery industries in
use to manufacture and develop the new instrument,
the corkscrew. So its no wonder that the worlds first patent
of this instrument is British. The
first corkscrew was created by
Samuell Henshall, in 1795.
To share and unravel those
little mysteries and curiosities,
inseparable from two great treasures of Humanity, - Wine and
Cork is also one of the missions that the Corkscrew Museum faces as its own.
ANADIA HAS ONE OF THE
LARGEST CORKSCREWS
COLLETION IN THE WORLD
Its good to remember that
one of the largest collections of
corkscrews is available at the
Wine Museum in Anadia. This
collection was built from Adolfo
Roques estate that was considered one of the top 50 corkscrew collectors in the world.
This valuable collection was
assembled by the late Commander and, fulfilling his desire, it is
now exhibited in the Museum by
agreement between the family
heirs and Anadias municipality.

p.8

2016

FONTE: IVV

The history of wine

Portugal
The cultural history
of the regions where
it is produced
Wines in Portugal result from the perfect link between the
nobility of the grape varieties and the savoir faire of men.
The permanent respect for their ancestors develops an ancient
art that is renewed each harvest.
They are renowned by years, as mark of an activity in which
the climate joins in and adds features and aromas that make
some years to be remembered with infinite nostalgia.
So its important to know the places where these precious
nectars are born, shaped by the whims of time and wisdom of
men, resulting in a divine and magical art.

the importance of wine in portuguese culture

2016

MINHO

IGP

BastoTmegaMonoLima
16Mono
Lima

1908
1926

3
12

IVV:

Colares
gobelet

In the region of Vinho Verde, there are references to viticulture since the Romans.
In the early modern period the highlights are the sub-regions of Basto, Tamega Ribeira, Mono and Ribeira Lima. It was from these last two sub-regions that these wines
were first exported to England from the port of Viana at the beginning of the XVI century.
It was in 1908 that the demarcation of several wine regions began. The major breakthrough occurred in 1926, when the production and trade regulation of Vinho Verde was
established and the Comisso de Viticultura da Regio dos Vinhos Verdes was created. This region spreads throughout the northeast of the country, in an area traditionally
known as Entre-Douro-e-Minho, south of the Spanish Galicia. Mountain areas, at east
and south, form a natural barrier while the Atlantic Ocean limits the west. This situation
creates a specific climate, different from the rest of the country, windy, with heavy rainfall and low sunlight. Vineyards occupy more than 30 thousand hectares, representing
12% of the national wine-growing area.
Regarding the type of soil, IVVs yearbook states: ... most of this region lies in granitic formations, with two exceptions two narrow tracks that cross towards NW-SE: one
of Silurian, where coal and slate formations appear; and another of archaic schists. They
present a sandy texture, shallow depth, high acidity and low in phosphorus and rich
in potassium. While in the South of Portugal, monocultures affect the vineyards with
plants growing on the ground (Colares) or unsupported (gobelet) and very low conduction (Alentejo), Vinho Verde developed often at a considerable height, with drastic reduction of alcohol content. Vineyards were planted with frame in pergolas next to cornfields
or other annual crops.

p.9

TRANSMONTANO
1989CVRTM
DOIG
2010

In 1989, a specific region was created and defined. This region assigned to the Comisso Vitivincola Regional de Trs os Montes, also known as CVRTM, was responsible for the certification of wine products entitled to bear the designation of origin (DO)
and the geographic indication (IG) Trs os Montes. The CVRTM is since 2010 officially
designated as a Certifying Entity.
The name Trs-os-Montes refers to the location of this vast region: it lies beyond the
Maro and Alvo Mountains, North of the Douro River, East of Minho, with the Spanish
boarder North. Soils vary widely between sub-regions. Chaves has predominantly granitic alkaline soils mixed with schist. From a morphological point of view, Granite is a
bewildering rock that is simultaneously a hard and crumbly texture, with fine grain and
rough grain. Soils from veiga de Chaves are so fertile that they classified them as first
class. Vineyards are planted on the slopes of small valleys, where the affluent of Tmega
River runs. Traditional vineyards essentially occupied cliffs and were planted in contour
lines. Work was carried out by farmers, using animal traction, mainly done by donkeys.
The weather in Trs-os-Montes is dry and very hot during summer. However during
wintertime, temperatures often reach negative figures, conditioning thermal needs and the
amount of water available. Only the sub-region of Valpaos is richer in water resources,
bearing its located in a plateau region. In the Planalto Mirands, its the Douro River
that influences viticulture. Red wines from this region are generally fruity and slightly astringent. White wines are generally mild flavor, with floral scents.

p.10

duriense

2016

TERRAS DE CISTER

1999

21

1756
3:
15

12

-
ADVID2545

The beginning of viticulture in the Douro region dates back to the Chalcolithic period.
However, its first proven traces revealed the existence of Roman mills with fixed installation and two crossed axes (Foz-Ca, Mura, Meda, etc.). Douro is the oldest wine demarcation region of the Modern Age. In 1756, Marqus de Pombal delimited the Douros wine region as the one we know today, though its geographically subdivided in three
regions: Baixo Corgo, Alto Corgo and Douro Superior. In the XV century, Port Wine developed an important dynamic. The secret of success was a drastic control by special
measures. They realized that in order to ensure the quality and prevent fraud, regulation
by adjusting the quotas of production to the market demand was a benefit. By analyzing
and determining a set of different criteria in production, they spurred the interest of producers to distinguish the quality of wine and vineyard.
With the recent and significant developments in the wine prestige, it was possible to
coordinate policies directed through the Institute of Douro and Port Wines, I.P.. The
University of Trs-os-Montes and Alto Douro and the association ADVID, among others,
assured the guarantee of a consistent joint action plan. Nowadays, the area is around
250.000 hectares, of which 45.000 are planted with vineyards.
The weather conditions are typically Mediterranean, and they vary based on the location of the vineyard on the hillsides of the rivers and streams. Due to its impressive
geological structure associated to the culture of wine, the Alto Douro valleys were recognized as World Heritage, by Unesco. The geological composition of the vast majority of
Douros soil is based on different types of metamorphic schists. We can rarely find granite, a specific case in which soils are considered to have a lower punctuation to the attribution of benefits to Port Wine.

Bordering between the regions of Douro and Terras do Do we find the region Terras de Cister. Apart from its small dimension, its very important in the production of
sparkling, fresh white and smooth red wines in Portugal.
The region of Tvora-Varosa is located on the foot of the hills of Serra da Nave. Its present name isnt new. It was created in 1999 and refers to the Tvora and Varosa Rivers,
two affluents of the Douro River, and the first ones specifically used for sparkling wines in
Portugal. The vineyard area, with around 2.100 hectares, covers Lamego, Tarouca, Moimenta da Beira, Armamar, Tabuao, So Joo da Pesqueira, Semancelhe and Penedono.
Although a recent region, its an almost magical place associated with the founding
of the Portuguese Nation.
When D. Afonso Henriques took the decisive step towards the foundation of the Portuguese nation, the nobles who supported him were in the city of Lamego. Its currently the
largest city in the region with traces of human occupation since the Proto time and many
historical testimonies were left there by many Romans, Swabians and Visigiths who passed there. That may be the reason why Cistercian monks chose this city to build some of
the most beautiful Cistercian architectural projects, such as the S. Joo de Tarouca Monastery, the first monastery in the Iberian Peninsula, built in the XII century.
Regarding white wines, the natural acidity, intense aroma and citrus character, bright
and fresh, allow to enhance its quality. Also the red wines get this delicate aroma and the
nobility of the body, achieving excellent aromas with time.

2016

BEIRA ATLNTICO

IG BEIRASIG

DOC

900
1100
120

Located in the interior of the Beira Atlntico region is Bairrada. These areas were part
of the largest wine region, known as IG BEIRAS.
Wine production in the region dates back to Roman times, as evidenced by the various anthropomorphic mills carved in the granite rocks.
The tradition of these wine dates back to the reign of D. Afonso Henriques who authorized the planting of vineyards in the region, with the condition of being given a quarter
of the wine produced. During D. Joo I and D. Joo III reigns, protective measures were
taken to the wine produced in this region, given its quality and social and economic importance. From Minho to Alta Extremadura, its a region of predominantly intensive and
multicultural agriculture, in small properties, where vines occupy an important role and
the quality of its wines justifies the recognition of DOC Bairrada.
Soils are of different geological epochs, with a predominance of poor land. They are
divided mainly between calcareous clay and long sandy tracks soils, with different types
according to the predominance of each element. Winters are long and cold, summers are
hot, softened by western and north-west dominant winds in the nearby sea areas. The
climate is Mediterranean-Atlantic type, with a rainfall of about 900-1100 mm. Its mostly a flat area, with vineyards rarely exceeding 120 meters. Due to its horizontality and
proximity to the ocean, it has a temperate climate with a very strong Atlantic influence, with abundant rainfall and average temperatures. Integrated in a coastal strip with a
strong population density, rural property is divided into thousands of small parcels, with
medium-sized plantations rarely exceeding one hectare of vineyard.

the importance of wine in portuguese culture

p.11

TERRAS DO DO

IG BEIRASIG

80
12
15

19

1865
Antnio Augusto Aguiar

1908
1910
1912

In the interior of the region currently designated as Terras do Do are located the
DOs Do and Lafes. Together, these areas were previously part of a largest wine area
known as IG BEIRAS. There are few traces of viticulture from Classic Antiquity in the
region of Do. 80 small mills were found craved on rocks, with different shapes, sizes
and from different time periods. Starting from the XII century, with the presence of Cistercian monks, charters and documented evidence exist. From the XV century on, there
is continuous information referring to the quality and economical importance of wine in
Do region. Due to the delay of Phylloxera appearance in the plateaus of the region, during the XIX century, viticulture reached its highest level of importance, as an alternative
to wine regions destroyed by the American scourges. In 1865, Antnio Augusto Aguiar
promoted the idea of the demarcation of the region, having found difficulties due to the
unstable political situation. It only occurred in 1908, adjusted in 1910, and finally in
1912 the actual geographical borders of DO were defined, with creation of the Regulatory Committee of Do Wine. Currently known as Regional Wine Commission of Do, it
was officially designated as the certifying entity to control production, trade and certification of wine products that are entitled to Designation of Origin (DO) Do and Lafes,
as well as Geographic Indication (GI) Terras do Do.
To the North of this region, wines with Designation of Origin Lafes can be produced.
The soils, originally formed by granite with pre-industrial schist, are frequently humid
and fertile. The region bears some resemblance to the Vinho Verde region, both in terms
of the type of vine training systems used in the vineyards, where vines are grown on the
borders of fields with other crops, or as uveiras, tall growing vines using trees or trellises for support, and in terms of characteristics of its white wines (low in alcohol, high
in malic acid and very fruity) and its reds that have a good ageing capacity.

p.12

2016

TERRAS DA BEIRA

LISBOA

139
600

12

RodrigoPinhelCovadaBeira
: 400700
16
20

In the interior of the delimited region Terras da Beira there is the region of BEIRA INTERIOR, and those areas were within a larger wine region, designated as IG BEIRAS. Terras da Beira region was the center of Lusitanian people, where their King Viriathus was
murdered in 139 b.C. by the Romans who then took over the land. Around 600 years later, the Visigoths arrived; those two peoples had a great connection to viticulture. The Cistercian monks, in the XII century revitalized the viticulture after the Reconquest. The Muslim Arabs did not dedicated themselves that much to this culture, but they always allowed
it. Located at the heart of northern interior, near the Spanish border, in the most mountainous area of Portugal, the region covers the mountain ranges of Serra da Marofa, Serra
da Gardunha and part of Serra da Estrela. Regarding the Designation of Origin Beira Interior, its sub-regions of Castelo Rodrigo, Pinhel and Cova da Beira have always distinguished themselves by their wine with high oenological value, expressed in a richer aroma
and different from other regions. Vineyards are raised between 400 and 700 metres, in a
total area of 16.000 hectares, and the weather provides fresh nights in summer, and quite
cold nights during harvest and fermentation period, which even before the introduction of
new technologies of controlled fermentation allowed the production of fresh and aromatic
mature wines. Ros wine was always considered the best and it brought some prosperity
to the region during the time of high export of this type of wine, in the XX century, especially to the USA and Northern Europe. The weather suffers an extreme continental influence, with impressive temperature variations. Summers are short but very hot and dry,
while winters are long and freezing. The soils are mainly granite, with some schists and,
less commonly, some sandy soils.

12

600700

BucelasCarcavelosColares
Bucelas
caeiras

Carcavelos

Colares

The creation of Lisbon wine region is the result of coordination between production
and trade of various regions, each of them with a vast history. Since ancient times there
were vineyards around Lisbon. There are Phoenician, Greeks, Roman and Visigoth traces. During Middle Ages, starting from the XII century, several religious orders were established, with an emphasis to the Cistercian Order, in Alcobaa, where Saint Bernard followers dedicated themselves to viticulture. Besides the liturgical aim, the order employed and
provided professional training to Christian citizens. Wines from Estremadura were vastly consumed and had a great prestige, becoming one of the most relevant products of the
economic activity of the region, identified as one of the largest wine regions in the country,
in terms of vineyard area and wine production. The grounds are not very elevated, except
in the South where some basalt and granite layers appear. The weather is mild, without
significant temperature variations, but with an annual rainfall between 600 and 700mm.
In the South of the region there are three Denominations of Origin where wine areas
are known for its tradition and prestige: Bucelas, Carcavelos and Colares. To the North
of Lisbon the region of Bucelas is located where vineyards are planted in soils that correspond to the traditional caeiras predominantly derived from marls and hard limestone.
The variety of reference in this region is Arinto and this is the only region exclusively delimited for quality white wines. To the West of Lisbon production area of DOC Carcavelos
is situated. This extraordinary wine is well known for many years, and nowadays it is
considered to be a rarity. In Sintra mountain range lies the region of Colares, which is divided in two subareas by its geological nature: sandy soil (region of dunes) and hard
soil (limestone, brown, marl and other types of soils). The unique characteristics of the
wine are conditioned by the soil, maritime climate and vine varieties of reference: red Ramisco, white Malvasia. The tradition is to plant vines p franco, or deep in the soil below the sand layer.

the importance of wine in portuguese culture

2016

TEJO

13
3Almeirim, Alpiara, Cartaxo, Chamusca, Coruche, Rio Maior, Salvaterra de Magos
Santarm
20092009
6

500/600

campobairro
charneca
aluvies

Montejunto

Campo

PENNSULA

p.13

DE SETBAL

AZOIA

AZEITAO
100500

92102075

19

10
30

The history viticulture in Tejo area was proved by Phoenician and Roman traces.
Charters from Kings of the fist Dynasty prove their existence since the Reconquest. By
the end of the first half of the XIII century, wine export to England reached some 30.000
barrels. In modern times, the counties with major wine incidence (Almeirim, Alpiara,
Cartaxo, Chamusca, Coruche, Rio Maior, Salvaterra de Magos and Santarm) increased
drastically their population due to viticulture. The exchage of the designation from Ribatejo to Tejo occurred in 2009/2010, being formed by six sub-regions: Almeirim, Cartaxo, Chamusca, Coruche, Santarm and Tomar.
The weather conditions are mild southern Mediterranean, with a rainfall of 500-600
mm/m2, limited to winter and spring months. Summers are hot, with moderate to hot
nights. Winters may register negative temperatures. The main orographic accident is Aires
and Candeeiros mountain range, delimiting what can be called Middle Tejo and Lezria
do Tejo. The region has three distinct production areas: Campo, Bairro and Charneca. Intensive farming soils, including viticulture, with high productivity are in the alluvial soils (CAMPO), with its extensive plains adjacent to the Tagus River, also known as
Lezria do Tejo. Bairro, located between the Tagus valley and Porto de Ms, Candeeiros
and Montejunto, has clay limestone soils in soft waves. Charneca, located in the South
of Campo, on the left bank of Tagus River, with sandy and averagely fertile soils, represents low production in comparison to the average of the region.
In the region of Tejo, currently some 19.000 hectares of vineyards exist, with predominance of white varieties, corresponding to 10% of national wine production, with constant increase of certified wines (DOC and Regional), whereas some 30% of the final
product is intended for export.

It was the Phoenicians and the Greeks who brought from the Middle East grape varieties for this region, having considered mild weather, Arrbida slopes and Tagus riverside area favourable for planting vineyards. Later, the Romans and the Arabs increased
the wine culture in this peninsula. With the foundation of the kingdom of Portugal, export of wine started. There are royal charters from the end of the medieval period that
prove Kings interest for this variety of wine. Wine from Azia (near Setubal) was highly
valued in the English market. The Phoenician vine variety Muscatel from Kelibia/Alexandria received particular relevance around the world with the label Moscatel de Setubal.
Located in the West coast, to the South of Lisbon, this wine region has a specific terroir for production of the famous and much appreciated liqueur wine. This region can be
divided in two completely different orographic areas: one in the South and Southwest,
mountainous, formed by Arrbida, Rosca and Saint Louis mountains, and by Palmela,
Saint Francis and Azeito, the latter cut out by valleys and hills, with an average altitude
of 100 and 500 metres. The other one, on the contrary, is flat and extends through the
plain near Sado River. The climate is mixed, subtropical and Mediterranean, influenced
by the proximity of the sea, by Tagus and Sado river basins and by the mountains and
hills of the region.
The delimited area covers a total surface of 9.210 hectares of vineyards, bearing that
around 2.075 of those hectares are destined to wine production with Denomination of
Origin. Great part of the wines is exported. There are big wine companies that use innovative technologies for transformation of grapes into wine. The regional wine Peninsula
de Setubal is produced all over the Setbal district. Regarding wines with Denomination
of Origin, there are two different regions: Setbal its fortified wines, and Palmela, where
along with whites, reds and ros wines semi sparkling and sparkling wines are produced.

p.14

ALENTEJANO

2016

ALGARVE

Tartessios

212

16

17

Methuen
10
Methuen

191885
PROVA

The winemaking culture in Alentejo region had already been part of the routine of preRoman civilizations, as can be assumed about the Tartesians, Phoenicians and Greeks,
whose presence is confirmed by hundreds of amphorae listed in the South of Portugal.
However, it was the Romans who vastly explored the winemaking in Alentejo, transporting
the wine by the Guadiana river. Terracotta tanks of all shapes and sizes can be found in the
area, some of them with 2.000 litres capacity, weighing almost a ton and 2 meters high.
After the Christian Reconquest, the culture stabilised and monks re-established numerous vineyards which had been abandoned during the Moorish occupation. In the XVI
century, the winemaking culture was already developing at an unprecedented rate in Alentejo, giving place to the well-known vora wines, among others. The first crisis was provoked the Independence war, with Alentejo wines gaining more fame and prestige in the
middle of the XVII century. By the time of Methuen Treaty in 1703, the vineyard area had
expanded up to more than 100.000 hectares. However, due to peace between France
and England and the oblivion of the late treaty by the English merchants, a new crisis
occurred. Motivated by his own interests in the Douro, the Marquis of Pombal ordered to
destroy Alentejo vineyards, and in the middle of the XIX century attempts were made to
recover these vineyards. Among other measures, in 1885, Portugals first cooperative
wine cellar was established in Viana do Alentejo.
Southern location and absence of significant relief are responsible for Mediterranean
and continental climate characteristics. However, several very distinct regional microclimates are generated. High level of sunlight also reflects itself in grapes maturation, which
can reach excessive levels.

1249

1755

During the five centuries of Moorish occupation still visible in the regions culture, in
spite of official prohibition to drink wine, winemaking culture was maintained in the region. Vineyards were planted and wine was exported.
After the Reconquest of Algarve, in 1249, Christians took hold of, and increased the
economic organisation created by the Arabs. Until the Proclamation of the Republic, in
1910, Portugals Kings were called as King of Portugal and the Algarves. Algarve became a strategic departure point during the Portuguese Discoveries, as well as an important location for wine export. The 1755 earthquake devastated the region and, subsequently, local winemaking culture lost some of its importance. In spite of the establishment
of cooperatives during the New State dictatorial regime, the reconstruction of the regions
wine sector failed.
However, at present, after the demarcation of the region and with high quality wine
cellars, the winegrowing region of Algarve is slowly regaining its old prestige. Its Southern location, protection against the cold Northern winds assured by the mountain range
around the region, as well as to its amphitheatre form turned to the South make the local
climate typically Mediterranean: hot, dry, with little wind, a small range of temperatures
and an average of more than 3.000 sunlight hours per year. By the hand of great oenologists, especially from Alentejo, grape varieties adapted to new winemaking technologies
were introduced. Thanks to substantial investments and technological transfer, there are,
presently, modern wineries all over the region. There are also around 2.000 hectares of
vineyards for production.

2016

TERRAS

MADEIRENSES

the importance of wine in portuguese culture

p.15

AORES

1418

14561578

Malmsey

19
80

738
47
700

16
1922

1852

3739516
93

Discovered by Portuguese navigators in 1418, Madeira Island early aroused the interest of Henry the Navigator who considered it to be privileged for the vine and sugar cane
growing. Therefore, he ordered from Greece Malvasia vines original from Napoli di Malvasia close to Sparta, and introduced its cultivation in the Island. Madeira wine achieved
a prominent position. References to first export to England date back to 1456. In 1578,
wine exports were already great, and it became the largest source of revenue for the Island. After the wedlock of King Charles II of England and the Duchess of Braganza, as well
as Cromwells war against Spain, Madeira wine gained attention of the English. Malmsey
wine (Malvasia) became English peoples favourite wine. With the fall of Constantinople
and the occupation of Greece by the Turkish Muslims, Madeira wine substituted famous
Greek fortified wine when its distribution by the Venetians stopped. With the progress of
international navigation, the importance of Madeira wine increased even more. The prestige of Portuguese wine was such, that King Eduard IVs brother charged with murder
and sentenced to death when asked to choose the way of putting an end to his life (considering his relation to the Sovereign) chose to be drowned in a barrel of Malmsey wine.
Shakespeare also refers Madeira wine in his play Henry IV.
However, American plagues of the XIX century ended with the success of this wine.
Only now, as a consequence of an excellent restructuring programme of grafting of vines,
and of the clonal selection of historic vines from the 80s, the wine of Vitis vinifera grape
variety was recovered, in accordance to its initial excellent oenological quality.
With a total surface area of 738 km2, Madeira Island is located in the Atlantic
Ocean. With mild weather and volcanic and basaltic soils, vineyards conquered the
Island and Madeira landscape suffered a transformation. Around 47% of the total area
of the Island rises some 700 meters above the sea level, whereas its occupation is characterized by woods and forests.

Right after the discovery of the Atlantic archipelagos, during King D. Afonso V reign,
his uncle Henry the Navigator, ordered to grub up the vines from the Island of Crete
in order to be acclimated, first on Madeira island, and then in the Azores. The goal
was to enter the great business of Greek fortified wines, taking advantage of the Islands position in the routes of international sailboats crossing the Atlantic. The vines
planted in corrals for a better protection from the wind flourished and, in the beginning of the XVI century, Carmelite and Franciscan monks successfully improved winemaking techniques. In the XIX century, wine export reached 20.000 barrels and vineyards extended for more than 2.000 ha. Exports, through their own trading company
in Brazil, besides the commercial relations with England and Russia, where Pico wine
was considered the Tsars wine, reveal an excellent commercial organization. After
1852, the American plagues destroyed the winemaking culture. The American hybrids
recovered, until a few years ago, the regional and immigrants consumption market.
During the restructuring of the winemaking sector, the hemithermic value of the grapes used in
different cultural conditions was not properly calculated, and neither was the need to replace
the corrals by other types of windbreaks. The labels of Pico Cooperative winery and Curral
de Atlantis innovative wines showed the possibility of a future for the famous Azorean wines.
The rest of the regional winemaking sector takes advantage of the subsidies to maintain traditional viticulture in corrals, but, unfortunately, once again with little economic sustainability.
In the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, between latitude 37 and 39,5 N, and a distance
of 1.600 km West from Portugals continental coast, the archipelago of the Azores has 9
islands, being that on three of them viticulture is present: Terceira, Pico e Graciosa. Their
climate and soil conditions are characterized by strong winds, steady temperatures and
the proximity of the sea, unique and distinct from the mainland Portugal soil, artificially
improved with volcanic eau-de-vie.

p.16

1381
1703

17341816

177674

18081810Bucelas

15641613
Bucelas(Lisbon Hock)()

1917

In 1776, the Second Philadelphia Congress

occurred when Thomas Jefferson drafted
the Declaration of Independence. England
did not accept and declared war. The
Independence War took place between 1776
and 1783, won by the United States with
the support of France and Spain. The final
toast was made with Madeira wine.
1776

17761783

2016

Portuguese wine in historic moments

Wine with history

From the United Kingdom to the United States
of America, through Russia and Portuguese monarchy,
Portuguese wine has had great role during some relevant historic
moments. Our wine was quoted by Shakespeare, used as perfume in Courts, appreciated by Russian
Tsars, and there even was someone who chose to die drowned in
Portuguese wine.
The history of wine in Portugal goes beyond the foundation of the nationality. It is
considered that the vine was planted for
the first time in the Iberian Peninsula (in
the valleys of Tagus and Sado rivers) about
two thousand years ago by Tartessians. In
1381, the Moscatel de Setubal wine was
already exported in large quantities to England. The British were such fans of Portuguese wines that in 1703 the Treaty of Methwen was signed between Portugal and
Britain to contribute to the popularity of
Port wine which was imported with preferential customs rates. During the 18th
century, for the British, the term wine became practically synonymous to Port wine.
During the reign of Queen Mary I
(1734-1816), Portuguese wines acquired great recognition marked by the beginning of wine export, with special high-

light to wines of Bairrada region exported

to North America, France, England and,
in particular, to Brazil, where they were
much appreciated.
On July 4th, 1776, the Declaration
of Independence of the United States of
America was signed, the document ratified by the thirteen colonies of North America to declare their independence from
the United Kingdom. Considering that Madeira wine was already present in the United States of America since the 17th century, it was the wine chosen to toast the
independence of the new country. This
fact highlights the tremendous closeness
of this archipelago to the country considered the largest economic power in the
world.
During the French invasions (18081810), Bucelas wine began to be known
internationally. Wellington enjoyed it so
much that he took it as a gift to Prince
Regent, later King George III of England.
After the Peninsular War, this wine became common in the English court. In
the times of William Shakespeare (15641613), Bucelas wine was known as Lisbon Hock (white Lisbon wine).
Carcavelos wine was well known to
Wellingtons troops that took it to England,
having been exported in large quantities
for a long period of time.
Considered as one of the most refined wines in courts, Madeira wine was
even used as a perfume for the ladies
scarves. In the English Court this wine
competed with Port wine. William Shakespeare referred to Madeira wine as precious essence in his play Henry IV. The
Duke of Clarence, brother of Edward IV
(15th century) left his name linked to this
wine when sentenced to death he chose
to die by drowning in a barrel of Madeira
Malvasia. France, Flanders and the United States of America also imported these
wines. The important families of Boston,
New York and Philadelphia competed for
the best Madeira wines.
In the 18th century, Pico wine from
the Azores was widely exported to Northern Europe and even to Russia. After the
revolution (1917), stored bottles of Verdelho do Pico wine were found in the cellars of the former Tsars.