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Zingermans Pfeffernsse
Cookie Box
Pfeffernsse cookies are traditional
Christmas treats in Germany. The
name translates roughly as pepper nut. The pepper part is because
theyre spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and yes, even a bit of
black pepper. The nut part is not
because they contain any nutsthey
dontbut because theyre round and
smallish and shaped somewhat like
a walnut in the shell. The illustrated box
makes for an adorable stocking stuffer, and the 8 cookies inside
are sure to bring holiday cheer to even the Bah Humbug-iest of
Scrooges.
Zingermans
Chocolate Covered
Peanut Brittle
Now you can pick your favorite flavors and assemble your own custom assortment of gelati. Flavors include standards like Roadhouse Vanilla and Dark
Chocolate, Zingermans favorites like Koeze Peanut Butter and Coconut
Macaroon, and seasonal treats like Pumpkin and Peppermint. Find the full list
of flavors online at zingermans.com.
UnparalLeled pie
Toasted Pecan Pie
Pecan pie is the one of Southern cookings best diplomats. Its hard to
find folks who wont dig into a slice placed in front of them.
That said, there are good pecan pies and there are great ones. The
better versions take care with the details. Real butter in the crust.
Great brown sugarours is organic and natural, from Mauritiusfor
the filling. Loads of toasted pecans.
Its always
beTter with bacon
Zingermans
Gift Cards
Zingerman's Food Clubs are subscription gifts that keep coming, month after
monthso your sentiments aren't forgotten. The first installment ships to arrive
on the day you desire. Future shipments
arrive every four weeks (you can customize that, too). Best of all, they come with
free shipping.
We have food clubs for all tastes: bread,
cheese, pastries, olive oils, fish, you name
it, and well ship it every month. But the most popular by a landslide? The Bacon of the Month Club. Even
vegetarians have joined in: seven to date. That's how many I know personally who've fallen off the bandwagon thanks to the bacons from this club. I'm not using that as a proposal for torturing anyone. I'm just
saying any food that's so good it can break a strong will has to be worth trying.
We'll ship 12 to 16 ounces of artisan bacon plus bacon stories, histories, and recipes to the lucky recipient
each month, just in time for weekend frying. Choose 3, 6, or 12 months of bacon to keep the porcine party
going.
from
ZINGERMANS.COM
Fantastic gift!
Bobby Flay
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
Picking the items on this list is nearly impossible. We have hundredsactually thousandsof products that deserve to be on it. Sandwiches at the Deli, dinners at the Roadhouse, candy bars, baked
goods, coffees... there are so many good things to eat around these parts! Below are the ones that made the list this year. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have, and that you enjoy reading about
them as much as I have writing about them.
Thank you for all your support and encouragement. It means so much to be surrounded by such a wonderful community of caring people! Happy everything!
Khalil Gibran says that "Work is love made visible." The products of the Mahjoub family are their lovefor Tunisia, for its
culture, for its cooking, for humankindmade not just visible, but eminently edible. Theyre DELICIOUS!
Tunisia is a place few Americans have visited, and its a cuisine only a handful have had the chance to experience. Ive fallen in
love with the food, the culture and the cuisine.
My beliefs about Tunisia have been hugely influenced by the Mahjoub family, who have become part of the ever-growing,
extended Zingermans community. We sell Majid and his wife Onsas products on our shelves at the Deli and through Mail Order.
Weve cooked with it regularly at the Deli and Roadhouse, and I use it all the time at my house, too!
Literally, I could put every single thing the Mahjoub family makes on this list of great tasting foods to feature for the holidaythe
exceptional harissa, the hand-rolled, sun-dried couscous, pickled lemons, naturally cured olives. Here, though, Im writing about
a special, newly arrived olive oil bottled especially for us. Its made from the same, unique-to-Tunisia chetoui olives that they
use in their usual excellent oil. In a small section of Majids orchard, the olives are allowed to remain on the tree a bit longer to
make for a very smooth, soft, buttery and beautifully delicious oil. Its delicious on delicate pasta dishes or salads. Its also great
on the Mahjoubs couscous, cooked plain with a bit of sea salt and pepper.
The label was designed by our own Design Manager, Nicole Robichaud. Here I want to acknowledge her wonderful workartistic, sensitive, creative, caring about the high quality food inside and the tradition and history of the Mahjoub family. Majid is
more poetic. It is simply sublime! he says. It makes me want to dip my bread in the oil, under the fresh shadow of an olive
tree!
As Tunisia tries to establish one of the few democratic states in
the Middle East, I feel happy to help support their economy, their
culture and their people. Vote for the Mahjoubs, for good food,
for Onsas excellent olive oil. First time in the US and exclusive
for us, were really happy to have it here!
doing another, second, oil, especially for us. And ,now, its here!
A single varietal oil made from the very ancient Moraiolo olives.
This new arrival, using only the oil of the Moraiolo is as much a
work of art as the label Michael painted for it. Both are gorgeous.
You might put some of the oil out on a white plate just to admire
the green gold color. The perfume is amazing and just entices you
to do what you know comes nextyou actually eat it! Its a bit
peppery and lively with aromas and flavors both of fresh cut grass
and olive fruit. Its amazingly buttery with a big, luscious mouth
feel.
The oil is unfiltered, which I always believe helps enhance the
complexity of the flavor. I've been eating the Poggio Lamentano
on the Martelli family's spaghetti, on fresh mozzarella, on simple
salads of arugula with a bit of grated Tuscan pecorino cheese, a
few chopped hazelnuts and a bit of roasted red pepper. And of
course, maybe it's best at its most basicpoured liberally onto
toasted breads from the Bakehouse. A taste of Tuscany, a bit of
history, a lot of art, a whole lot of good flavor, all in one nicely
labeled bottle.
Until I embarked on this journey, I didnt understand that greater nourishment and a deeper savoring
of every aspect of my life were not only available but what I deserved. What we all deserveand can have.
- Simran Sethi, Bread, Wine, Chocolate: The Slow Loss of Foods We Love
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
America and was taken to Europe and then Asia and Africa
by Europeans. But South Vietnam, it turns out, is an ideal
climate in which to grow cacao.
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
featured IN THE
NEW YORK TIMES!
What makes it taste so good? Two main things. First: using better beansa lot of packaged cold brew work is done to use up subpar offerings that might not make it on their
own. Steve selects beans with the idea of making the cold brew one of the tastiest things
we offer. Secondly, using more coffee. Many cold brews can be a bit pallidthis one is
bolder, ready to be poured over ice or have cream and sugar added, without ever losing
its identity!
All of Steves hard work has paid off in the form of great product. You can drink the cold
brew today from any of the Zingermans locations. Were shipping it across the country
via Zingermans Mail Order. If you know a caf, restaurant or shop that should be selling it,
email Steve at smangigian@zingermans.com. Many people are buying it by the case, stocking in their cellars and cycling a few bottles at a time through the fridge. More than a few
have started concocting cocktails using the cold brew as the base! Since it is shelf stable,
theres no reason not to stock up!
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
Pane Nero
True North
Pane Nero means, literally, black bread in Italian. It is, to be clear, not at all black in the context of darker breads from further north in Europe. Chernyi Khleb in Russia or Schwartzbrot in
Germany are about twenty times darker. But context is everything. Compared to the whiter wheat
breads of the Mediterranean or the golden crumb of the more typical Sicilian Sesame Semolina,
Pane Nero really is a swarthy Sicilian specialty. The darker colorsomewhere between toffee
and caf au laitcomes from the local Tuminia wheat that makes this bread so special.
Pane Nero is made with entirely natural whole wheat by simply grinding whole wheat berries
and leaving the resulting wheat as it emerges from the stone mill. All of the grains naturally good
components remain intact! Were usingjust as bakers do in Castelvetranoa mix of 30 percent
of the old Tuminia wheat and 70 percent of other Sicilian varieties, most especially one called
Simeto. Its all done under the supervision of Filippo Drago, whose passion for this old wheat
has driven its availability here in the US. Filippo is a fanatic. Hes leading the way in Sicily to get
farmers to go back to growing this ancient, wonderfully flavorful grain.
For all his culinary seriousness, Filippo is something of a character. He has longish, nearly-to-hisshoulders hair, round-framed brown glasses, and white sneakers that make him look like a 1960s
musician. If you told me he was John Lennons Italian nephew Id have to wonder. Sara Whipple,
whos worked at the Bakehouse for nearly twenty years now explained: When Filippo started
a local wheat movement in Italy, growing and stone-milling ancient varieties, people thought
he was crazy, including his own family. He says he lost many customers, friends and even family
over it. They told him he would not succeed, but now they see his vision as a reality. He takes a
lot of pride in that. This is the kind of person you want growing and making your food. I could
listen to Filippo speak, and admire his hair, all day.
Molini del Ponte is the mill that was built by Francesco Paolo Drago, Filippos great-grandfather,
in the early 1900s. Like most of the pasta makers we work with, the mill today is a mix of old
wooden equipment with somewhat more modern stainless steel. His passion is the revival of old
wheat varieties and the baking of breads in which those wheats are the primary contributor of
flavor and character. You cant make the old bread without the old wheat.
For what its worth, many people who have trouble digesting modern white wheat varieties have
said that their systems respond well to this old, pre-modern grain. Filippo, of course, wants to
emphasize its excellent flavor and tradition, not its possible health benefits. Like a great glass
of wine or a local olive oil, its about appreciation and its not a penance, he says. Its a joy!
In Sicily, Pane Nero would often be eaten accompanied by great olive oil, anchovies, sun dried
tomatoes (Im partial the ones we get from the Mahjoub family across the water in Tunisia) or
young pecorino cheese. Is Pane Nero a local Ann Arbor specialty? It is now! Intriguingly, when
I emailed Beatrice to tell her I was writing a small bit about the bread, she emailed me back:
Amazing! I just read 5 pages of your book, Guide to Good Leading, 5 minutes ago. These pages
were photocopied by our Danielle as a MUST read for GustiTeam. Hold on, let me take a photo.
Attached! Which piece is she reading? Secret #16 from Part 1 of the Guide to Good Leading. The
same exact essay Id referenced to start the piece.
More importantly, she added, Pane Nero is fragrant and delicious. When Filippo came to Ann
Arbor, last June, he said that Franks Pane Nero is BUONISSIMO!!!
attaining permanent readiness for marvelous. Take her advice
to heart and get ready- this stuff fills that bill big time!
Kennys Cheese
One of the best new cheese additions weve had in a long time,
Kennys (actually Kenny and crew) cheeses have been amazing
across the board! Good people, making good cheese, in a good
place is pretty much always a recipe for excellence. Weve been
enjoying them on cheese boards at the Roadhouse for the last
few months, and I have a feeling these flavorful gems are going to
appear in ever more places in the months to come.
Twenty-five years ago, Kenny Mattingly was doing dairy farming in Barren County, Kentucky. Its down in the southern part
of the state, closer to Nashville than to either Louisville or
Lexington. Although he liked working with the cows, Kenny was
concerned about the financial future of his chosen field (pun sort
of not intended). But while most people just continue to worry
and spread their anxiety around to others, Kenny decided to do
something. Rather than stay with the shaky pricing of selling liquid milk, he decided to move into what the farm world refers to
remarkably complex. Its made from raw milk, which boosts the
complexity, and brings out the nuances of all that great milk from
the farms herd.
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
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NOV-DEC 2016
decEmber
Rediscover the flavors of the Islamic Golden Age with an ancient spice blend
based on recipes from 12th century Baghdad. Delicate, fragrant, and enticing,
Thousand and One Nights delivers a deep, mellow range of flavors that are at
once familiar and alluring. This blend includes 17 spices that were favored by
chefs in the worlds wealthiest empire a millennium ago, all waiting to reveal
their secrets to you.
The Middle East was the center of global spice trade for thousands of years:
both as a producer of spices like saffron, cumin, frankincense, and mastic, and
as the center of exchange for everything from ginger to pepper. The accumulated wealth and knowledge of the worlds cooking, coupled with the immense
wealth of the regions Caliphs, resulted in unparalleled culinary complexity
that is difficult to reproduce even today. The historical compendium, Medieval
Arab Cookery, meticulously catalogues many of the Arab worlds greatest recipes, and was the inspiration for this blend.
November
Mulling Spices
This exquisite combination includes Arab mainstays like cumin and mint, as
well as ancient favorites like galangal, kentjur, roses and hand-ground mastic. Taking our cue from chefs of the Imperial court, we prefer this blend for
simmered chicken and lamb dishes. Its ideal for roast lamb, couscous or rice.
Its excellent when simmered or roasted, but offers a wide range of flavors if
eaten freshly ground: sprinkle ground Thousand and One Nights blend as a
finishing touch on pilafs, yogurt, salads and mezzes.
Like the book, Thousand and One Nights not only offers enchantment, but also
reliability that can be enjoyed night after night. This spice blend offers a window to the many perfumed meals Scheherazade shared with the sultan as she
enticed him with her tales. But, just as Scheherazades tales were woven from
folk stories told over thousands of years, this spice blend contains the knowledge of generations of hard-working chefs trying to create a successful meal.
Try it with Arab classics like Roast Cornish Game Hen, including rose water
and pomegranate, or see how well it elevates American favorites like Peas and
Carrots. Youre sure to get at least 1,001 nights of enjoyment out of this blend!
Gulfish from
Jimmy Galle
One of the best new additions to our culinary repertoire in recent years, the work that Jimmy Galle
and crew are doing is something special. They have a total dedication to helping traditional, smallboat fisherman in the American Gulf get their fish and shellfish to people like you and I, who like to
eat it as fresh as they possibly can. All the while doing it in a sustainablefinancially, ecologically
and emotionallyway. Their work is simple, but its not easy. If youve already ordered some of
the fresh snappers, fresh shrimp and other Gulf specialties we get from them, youve already experienced their excellence. If you like fishI love itthis is really something special.
I met Jimmy Galle for the first time decades ago. He was living in California, working with specialty
food, but not fish. Nice guy, friend of a friend, we chatted a bit. Wed run into each other from time
to time and say hi, but thats about where things stayed. Until 2009 when Jimmy decided
to return to his roots and start Gulfish. Although Id met him in California, it turns out that
Jimmy grew up along the Gulf Coast. Working from the back of a pickup truck with little
more than a cell phone and his knowledge of Gulf fishing and the national food business, he got his new project off the ground.
Or maybe I should say out of the water! Today hes shipping fish to quality focused chefs all over the US.
I was thinking the other day that in a way Jimmy is doing for fish what Neals Yard Dairy is doing for British cheese. Find the
besteither fish, or cheesein its raw state, build a bond with the people who make it, and then connect that fabulous,
otherwise unfamiliar source to food lovers around the globe. Both really have built their businesses on a great sense of what
makes high-quality products; trust with the producers; and with the end users. They get people like us to believe in their work
and be confident that the product were paying a lot more money for is going to be truly delicious when it gets to our door.
Both are passionate about helping traditional producers to keep their livelihoods sustainable. Both are committing to keep
food traditions alive and are ready to take advantage of appropriate technology to help make that happen. Both are willing to
work their butts off to make that happen.
The fisherman knows his or her name is ON the productnot blended in with a dozen other boats who are less quality focused
so that quality matters in a way it doesnt when ones working in the mass market of mainstream industry. Heres what Jimmy
and crew have to say on the subject:
At Gulfish we are not interested in being the biggest seafood company in town or the distributor that can bring you fish from
around the world. We will leave that to other folks. We do want to be known as the source for the freshest and finest seafood
from the abundant waters of the US Gulf of Mexico. We believe that small fishing operations, boats that fish right and adhere
to the principles of sustainable fishing, deserve our support. Their future, and the future of dayboat fishing depends on it. For
these reasons we work hard to connect and buy direct from these hard working fishermen who offer a level of quality
that we believe large fishing fleets and imported fish can not match. We believe when you find a good
fisherman, someone who is dedicated to fishing responsibly, you have to support him. And at Gulfish
that is what we work to do everyday. And thanks to their hard work, you and I get to eat it regularly!
Next time youre in the Roadhouse, ask whats available from Gulfishwhatever it is, I guarantee it
will be good. Really, really good. The kind of fish that will have you shaking your head at how much
subtlety and deliciousness can be found in every bite. The fish names on the menu may not sound all
that differentsnapper is spelled the same way at Red Lobster as it is at the Roadhousebut the flavor
sure is different, thanks to Jimmy!
thaNksgivInG menu
2016
Our Thanksgiving dishes are made by hand with fresh, local, seasonal ingredients
to Order calL:734.663.3400
desSerts
Weve put together a complete feast for your guests to gobble! It includes our
butter-basted & sage-rubbed bone-in turkey breast, mashed potatoes, homestyle
gravy, cranberry sauce, sage & celery stuffing, wild rice, maple sweet potatoes,
Bakehouse Farm bread along with fresh Michigan farm butter, plenty of our
amazing spiced pecans for snacking & Pilgrim Pumpkin pie from the Bakehouse
for dessert. (generously serves 4-6 people)
ThanksGiving traditions
Thanksgiving Turkeys
featuring Two Tracks Acres
whole bird $150, or
just the breast $100 ($65/ breast)
Let Two Tracks Acres and Zingermans
Deli do all the hard work with the bird
this year. We baste the turkeys with
sage and Calder Dairy butter. (whole
serves 6-8; half serves 4-6)
$11.99/lb
Our really wild rice salad is full of all
that fall has to offer. Full-flavored
and hand-parched wild rice of Leech
Lake in Minnesota mixed with Michigan cranberries, savory veggies, fresh
herbs and dressing. (2-3 servings per
pound)
$9.99/lb
Plenty of fresh cream, sweet butter
and sea salt. (2-3 servings per pound)
$8.99/lb
Truly the candy of the forest. These amazing fresh chestnuts are ready for
you to roast (instructions included). Our chestnuts come from the Michigan
Chestnut Growers, Inc.
$8.99/qt
$8.99/lb
Roasted sweet potatoes glazed in
Michigan maple syrup, fresh herbs
& toasted pecans. (2-3 servings per
pound)
Brussel Sprouts
and Butternut Squash
$10.99/lb
Brussel sprouts and roasted butternut
squash joined together in thyme flavored brown butter and dark flavored
honey. (2-3 servings per pound)
$8.99/lb
Thick enough to be jam on your toast.
We use both dried and fresh Michigan
cranberries to make our ruby-colored
sauce unforgettable. (4-5 servings per
pound)
$15.99/qt
We roast buttercup-style squash to develop its flavor. Then, with the help of
Calder Dairy milk and fresh herbs, we
make this delicious soup.
Pumpkin Cheesecake
$30/6round
$19.99/1lb bag
bread
Zingermans
Cranberry Pecan Bread
$11.99/ea
$8.99/dozen
$16.99/qt
Straddle the border of sweet and savory with our delightful chestnut
soup. Our chestnuts come from our
pals at Michigan Chestnut Growers
Inc. Finished with a dash of nutmeg
and cream.
FOOD DRIVE
benefitting Food Gatherers
From November 14 to December 3, please visit one of these
Zingermans businesses to make a donation of a
nonperishable food item or baby or hygienic supplies:
Zingermans Coffee Company
Zingermans Bakehouse
Zingermans Delicatessen
Zingermans Mail Order
Zingermans Roadhouse
Weve developed a special menu for all of your holiday festivities! Whether youre taking some treats to a holiday party or
in charge of serving the entire family, Zingermans Catering is
here to help. Starting November 15th, we are featuring some
spectacular menu items to assist you in having a stress-free
celebration.
Try our Emmas Remarkable Party To Go! This great collection is perfect for taking to the office, a friends party or for
entertaining in your own home. Weve gathered our favorites: two types of savory Italian salami with brown mustard;
two hand-selected artisan cheeses with slices of Bakehouse
French baguette; Edwardss peanuts; our housemade hummus and crisps; plump grapes and juicy strawberries; and for
a sweet finish, an assortment of Bakehouse brownies, including Buenos Aires, Pecan Blondies and Black Magic. So, grab a
bottle of red wine and give your friends a call!
2016
Its what you wait for all year! Every January and February
when you place a catering order for pickup or delivery,
you get your next order of equal or lesser value half off.
Order what youd like: bag lunches on Monday, lasagna on
Wednesday or whatever else you have in mind, and youll
get half off the lesser order. This offer is good for orders
that are picked up or delivered from January through the
end of February, so call and order as many times as youd
like.
BOGO Fine Print
This offer cannot be combined with other discounts. This
offer is only valid for orders from Zingermans Catering.
Discount will not be applied to equipment rentals or service staff. Service fees for events will be based on nondiscounted totals.
ISSUE # 257
Ensure
powdered milk
pancake
and baking mixes
dry beans
peanut butter
jelly/jam (plastic jars)
NOV-DEC 2016
PAIRING 101
Featuring a return visit from Glenn Roberts and a menu collaboration with Chef Alex
We welcome back Glenn Roberts from Anson Mills for
Zingermans Roadhouse Special Dinner #202! Glenn is not
#202
only nationally recognized as an artisan stonemiller, but
he has devoted his life to rescuing endangered seeds we
believe are crucial to preserving agricultural systems and fullflavored foods. Chef Alex and Glenn have put together a menu
this year that will draw attention to the character of land-raised, heirloom
grains and their regional histories. Look forward to tasting emmer, a hulled
wheat farro medio with a cashew-like flavor that dates back to early civilization. Chef Alex will be preparing his dry aged sirloin
with teosinte, a grass that is a wild ancestor of corn.
The Five Bean soup features an heirloom red bean
called hidatsa, named for the native people of the
Upper Missouri River Valley, which is known for
its creamy texture and rich flavor. Alex and Glenn
could not let you attend this dinner without a taste
of grits, of course, so the first course will include
a tasting of Appalachian red grits grown in three
different terroirs. Dont miss out on Glenns return
to Zingermans Roadhouse and the bountiful stories
hell tell with his grains!
Save the date for one of the more sparkling events of the season,
the Oysters and Bubbles Dinner at Zingermans Roadhouse! This
#203
year we will be welcoming Larry Mawby from the Leelanau
Peninsula in Michigan, who is known for producing small
batches of cuve close method sparkling wines. Our bar manager, Carly Bower, loves pairing their cool climate wines with our
oysters because they stand up well to the array of oceanic flavor profiles
our list offers. Join us for an evening of handcrafted bubbles and a delectable menu designed by Chef Alex Young featuring his selection of oysters!
SWEETHEART TARTS
CREATIVE COOKIES
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
A Cheese Plate
for Any Holiday!
One of the most common requests for help Ive gotten in the last 8 years behind a cheese
counter comes from folks who are entertaining friends and family and want to put
together a cheese plate. When faced with a well-stocked cheese counter, the options can
seem overwhelming, but a few simple guidelines will help narrow the field and let you
pick the perfect cheeses for any crowd!
November
Detroit St Brick
2006, 2007, 2012 AMERICAN CHEESE SOCIETY WINNER
The Detroit Street Brick draws its name from the famed brick street
in front of Zingermans Delicatessen. This goat cheese is aged from
two to five weeks and is generously studded with fresh, cracked green
peppercorns and a soft velvet coating of penicillium mold. Beginning as a
dense, slightly crumbly cheese with a bright lemony tang, the Detroit Street
Brick develops a savory and spicy quality over time that gives the cheese an amazing earthiness and a dark ivory color with flecks of pepper throughout. Try it sliced on a burger or
gently warmed and drizzled with your favorite olive oil. Great with a nice red ale or a dry,
mineral, white wine!
december
Manchester Family of Cheeses!
For us, family is an important part of the season, so for the month of December we are featuring all four cheeses of our Manchester Family!
-Through gentle pasteurization and slow culturing
of the milk, our original
Manchester retains an
amazing expression of the
character of the milk used
to make it.
-When wrapped in cabbage leaves the
cheese transforms into our Manistique. In
addition to the visual appeal of the leaves,
wrapping the cheese alters the flavor and
texture of our Manchester
as it ages, enhancing the
earthy and complex
notes, while helping
to break down its luscious, dense paste.
Construction
Continues!
The construction to remodel Zingermans Creamery is moving along nicely! While the Cheese
Shop is closed for updates, the Coffee Company is selling our 12oz drums of gelato for you to
take home and enjoy, and the Bakeshop has expanded their selection of our cheeses. Follow
along with construction progress and updates on our Facebook & Instagram!
facebook.com/zingermanscreamery
instagram: @zingermanscreamery
novembEr
Pomander Mocha
decEmber
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
Attending to Agriculture:
The Harvest
The Flavor
Changing Beliefs
What we do every day, every action we take, is really just a reflection of what we believe. And really what we pay for anything
is mostly a reflection of what we believe about the product or
service were purchasing. Part of those beliefs are formed by
what we perceive to be happening around us. The marketplace.
Society. Most of us, most of the time, follow along with social
norms (read, "beliefs") even without thinking about it. Why else
would we pay $6 for a bucket of bad popcorn at a movie theater?
Or as I did at an event I went to recently, $2.50 for a small glass of
water! (I was thirsty!)
What we think we should pay for a tomato or a head of lettuce
is really just based on our beliefs. One of the simplest and yet
most powerful things I learned in working on my latest book,
Zingerman's Guide to Good Leading, Part 4; A Lapsed Anarchist's
Approach to The Power of Beliefs in Business, is that when I change
my beliefs, things all of a sudden look a lot differently. In the same
way that a 50% increase in entry level wages is a good thing and
will ultimately change other costs, prices, and what we expect to
pay (and/or get paid), we could do the same with produce. Its
already happening. When I go to the farmers' market every week,
I often spend over $60 buying produce and thats only for two
people.
The good news about beliefs is that we don't need to stick with
what we were taught when we were young. Each of us is authorized to walk our own way! As I wrote in the book, While what
comes up may seem scary at first, the good news is that, per Secret
#43, with a fair bit of mindful effort, we can change our beliefs
when we want to. As far as food and farming goes, I couldnt be in
a more different place from the one I was at as a kid. Literally, and
figuratively. Rather than walking supermarket aisles, Ive learned
to stop and take notice. To savor every little bit and take in the
nuance. To appreciate what we have on our own farm. A place
where, perhaps, we can put some of those paradoxes to good use.
This essay features some main characters that we introduced
in Part 1. Alex is Chef Alex Young, James Beard award-winning
Executive Chef of Zingermans Roadhouse, whose moonlighting
efforts have grown into Zingermans Cornman Farms. Mark is
Mark Baerwolf, who began working at the Roadhouse in 2006 and
is now full-time at the farm. Amanda is Amanda Maurmann, who
spearheaded the farms flower growing program to contribute to
its economic success and scenic beauty.
10
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
Terrific heirloom tomatoes, great potatoes, those amazingly aromatic carrots, tiny delicate and delicious corn shoots, exceptional
kale thats become a signature salad at the Roadhouse, pretty
much everything coming in from Cornman is super flavorful. Its
taken the food and cooking in the restaurant to a whole new
level. To turn one of Pauls favorite phrases slightly to the left and
back around again, This isnt just a sound idea, its an idea that
tastes really terrific!
One summer evening, I was sitting at a table on the periphery
of the Roadhouse patio. Wed just had a huge rainstorm so this
exposed-to-the-elements row of seats was left unset. I dried a
chair off and I did some email, keeping an eye on things but trying
not to be intrusive. The couple opposite me ordered their meals,
and chatted, made eye contact with me, smiled and went on about
their business. When their dinners arrived I couldnt help but take
noticeIve been doing this way too long not to look. I couldnt
quite tell everything that the gentleman had ordered, but what
I could see on the part of the plate closest to him was some sauted squash. I could see the bright, sunflower yellow skin of the
patty pan squash that had come in from the farm earlier that day.
He took a bite and then did a bit of a double take. Looked at his
dining companion and said, almost out loud, Wow! She had a
taste, they talked. He had, as per Wendell Berrys belief, stopped
to take notice.
Sauted squash so good that it commands that much attention is
not an everyday eating experience in America. Most Americans
eat their squash because they should. Some eat them because
they like them. But in the same way that commercial pasta serves
mainly as a vehicle for the sauce, usually vegetables are there
as a healthy way to consume butter, olive oil, bread crumbs or
cream. Of course, when you learn how fantastic great artisan
pasta can be (as I did so many decades ago), one figures out what
food-focused Italians have known for ages. The pasta, not the
sauce, is the point. And in this case, so was the patty pan squash.
Squash that good becomes the star!
Another night, another regular, someone with a successful business career who can afford to eat out regularly and has traveled
extensively, stopped me to comment, Everything was amazing.
Every bite was excellent. Every single bite. You really can taste all
the flavors. Every single ingredient,you can taste the difference. I
told him in return that hed made my night. His statement summed
up my own beliefs about food, put together in one casual, afterdinner comment, everything weve been working to do with food
at Zingermans since we first opened our doors in 1982!
Unlike my childhood growing up in an urban food wasteland, my
girlfriend, Tammie Gilfoyle, grew up surrounded by great produce.
Northern-California-born and raised, shes basically had access to
the best fruits and vegetables her whole life. For her, salads are
the centerpiece, not a side dish that sits in second place. Tammie
worked much of her life in specialty food in one of the countrys
culinary capitals, San Francisco. Now shes a full time professional gardener. This woman knows her vegetables. Earlier this
summer, Mark and Amanda from Cornman Farms started selling
at the Westside Farmers Market. I, of course, started buying a lot
to bring home. We cook at home every night, and we actually eat
very little meat. When we sat down to eat, Tammie had the same
reaction as the guy on the Roadhouse patio. She was markedly
impressed. The stuff coming off the farm is that good.
Ive seen the same thing with the wintered-over carrots that get
served pretty much year round at the Roadhouse. These are great
carrots when theyre pulled fresh. But left in the ground during
winter freezes, the natural sugars in the carrots increase. This
summer, I was at the Westside Farmers Market and I walked up to
buy some just-dug potatoes, heirloom tomatoes, collard greens,
and a couple bunches of carrots from the Cornman stand. Mark
didnt need to sell me. I was already sold. But, of course, when
we love and are passionate about our products, we WANT to sell.
Because selling isnt the act of tricking some unsuspecting consumer into buying what you have to make money. When you
really believe in what you produce, you want to to talk about it.
Mark could have just packed things up and handed me a big bag
and taken my money. But instead, he grabbed the carrots in the
plastic bag they were in, opened the bag and held it up to my nose.
Smell this! he said. Just smell this! I stuck my nose in and did
as he said. Who would resist that kind of passion, the grounded
belief? He had good reason to be excited. One smell told the story.
I don't think of uncut, whole carrots as being particularly aromatic but, man. This was like sticking my head into essence of carrot. Exceptional. You really can tasteand smellthe difference!
Farming is not for the faint of heart or for those who are looking
for instant gratification. I love to cook. Having access to exceptional ingredients the way I do makes it a lot easier. But still, I
can knock out an exceptional meal in half an hour, even fifteen or
twenty minutes, if Im pressed. All it takes are great raw materials.
Vegetables, like were talking about here, olive oil, cheese, bread,
pasta, rice, fish, meat or poultry, and great spices. Good salt and
particularly great pepper.
Baking takes longer. At least a day to do the unleavened breads at
the Bakehouse (and that doesnt count the years of study to master the skill, have the starter develop, etc.). Cheesemaking of the
fresh sort we do at the Creamery takes longer, at least a few days,
often a couple of months. Aged cheese can take years.
Farming is more like aged cheese. For a lot of it, you start a year
ahead of time, work your butt off, hope for the best and some
good weather, and learn your lessons, and starting again next season. In many ways, it runs completely counter to what most of the
world seems to be working towards. Everyone else is after speed:
big bold strokes, trying to flip their startup to make their fortune,
looking to reduce labor, cut costs. Sustainable farming, like Alex
and the crew at Cornman are doing, is the opposite. Slowing down.
Sticking with it. Disturbing as little as possible. Working softly for
the long term success. Theres no endno award, no retirement
package, no leaving to go run a fancier farm.
We committed many sins in his backyard while we learned: not
Working Hard to
Have It All Work
That all this tastes this good is not an accident and its
not without a LOT of work. In the same way that the
Bakehouse bakes bread that in theory are very much
the same as what many other bakeries also produce,
yet, through management of small details, continually
being willing to do the little, extra things, comes out with
bread that tastes remarkably better, the same is true with
whats coming off the farm. What these guys are growing,
right in our own backyard, is exceptionally remarkable.
Sometimes I think that because the produce is from our
own land, weve underplayed it. I take the rap. While I
talk a lot about the fact that we have a farm, I probably
havent studied the work that Alex, Mark and Amanda,
and others over the years have done in the same way that
Ive studied olive oil or cheese or tea or chocolate. But,
better late than never right?
Having just written an entire book about beliefs, Id be
hard pressed to miss the passionate belief of the people
working on the farm. In the book, I argue that our beliefs
are like rootswhat comes up above the ground, what
you and I eat, is always a reflection of whats happening
below the surface. In the case of the farm, the metaphor
and the reality are running in parallel. The concept completely applies to what were growing and the work that
Alex, Amanda and Mark are doing with the soil. And it
applies equally accurately to the strong beliefs that they
have in what theyre doing. Their passion is impossible to
resist. We work with full-flavored traditional food. Most
all of whicheven meat that we eatstarts with plants.
Fresh produce, small scale artisan farming, is at the core
of all of it.
AR
T2
Seed Selection, Feeding the Soil
and Sustainable Price Structures
rotating right, not putting cover crops in, not being good stewards
of the land. Its things that are very subtle, Mark explained. "But
we keep learning and we get better and better each year. You can
taste it in the quality of the produce.
Its about watching, working, listening to the land, re-calibrating
with nature, learning slowly. This is not an internet start up that
you can do from your attic. Theres no way to do sustainable farming without getting dirty. Dan Barber, one of the folks whose cooking, writing and business I admire a great deal, wrote in his excellent book, The Third Plate:
To grow nature is to encourage more of it. Thats not easy to
do. More nature means less control. Less control requires a certain faith, which is where the worldview comes into play. Do you
view the natural world as needing modification and improvement,
or do you view it as something to be observed and interpreted?
Do you view humans as a small part of an unbelievably complicated and fragile system, or you view us as the commanders? The
farmers in this book are observers. They listen. They dont exert
control.
Dan didnt write about Alex, Mark, and Amanda, but he could have.
They are also observers, listeners, diggers.
As eaters, we are working with a different operating system. Its
hard to imagine, but what we put away on a plate in a matter of
minutes might really be a good year, really probably three or four,
in the making. Mark shared the story of Maddie, one of the crew
at Cornman, who remarked the other day, Its like you make this
beautiful plate and you eat it in five minutes. You worked on it for
a year and its gone in five minutes. Thats what happened at the
Roadhouse, too. Alex said, I made eight quarts of cucumber salad
with four slices of Cherokee Purple tomato and we sold it out in
two hours.
Alex explained. Were guessing its like 400 tons a year! Mark
later did more math. My conservative calculation is 500,000
pounds hauled since then, equating to roughly 800,000 pounds of
compost. Where most of our economy is about extraction, this is
an approach that is based on addition. The more they can put back
into the soil, the better. The fact that it takes years to get back the
investment, and that that return may not come at all some years, is
just part of how it works. This is all about long term investment
protect the land from being leased out for subdivisions; keep adding back nutrients every year, appreciate the excellence of the
vegetables that come from the soil. Find ways to sell, cook and
serve them in a way that makes the business of the farm as sustainable as theyre working to make the soil.
Seed Selection
How much compost? At least ten tons per acre, for the ten years,
ISSUE # 257
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Thanksgiving
Meals To-Go!
1) Order Call 734.663.3663 48 hours ahead of time
2) Pick-up Drive up to the Roadshow
3) Re-hEat & serve! Use our instructions
Roadhouse Bread
All the dishes have tradition behind them, says Ji Hye. We know where it came from, but
Im Korean-American, so its not just straight up Korean.
Creating a Korean menu with produce native to Michigan is part of that adaptation. Her
bibimbap is a good example. Served in a traditional stone bowl, the dish uses local ingredients look for root vegetables and brassica this fall which Ji Hye says are often close
cousins to what may be found in Korea. Keeping with tradition, each component is prepared to make the most of its natural flavors and textures. Carrots can handle a little
heavier seasoning and a little sweeter seasoning, whereas sprouts are really gentle, so that
might just get a little sesame oil, salt and pepper, she says.
She also plays homage to cultural convergence with her famous buns, which she became
known for in Ann Arbor while running the San Street food cart for four years (locals will
be happy to have them again after a long hiatus). Though Chinese in origin, buns are a
popular street food in Korea and have developed to reflect local flavors. Food doesnt
know man-made boundaries of a country. Food actually is pretty fluida little fluidity is
okay, she says.
Though her familys recipes wont play a huge role on her menu, Ji Hye says her mothers
influence can be seen in the Napa cabbage kimchi. The chef has memories of watching her
mother burying the staple to ferment in Korea; in New Jersey, she still managed to make
it from scratch, even in the midst of an 80-hour work week. Inspired by renditions from
Seoul and North Korea, the kimchi at Miss Kim takes on subtle flavors with lower sodium,
fewer chili flakes, and lighter use of fish sauce than youll find in most restaurants and
store-bought brands.
Ji Hyes menu and thoughtful approach have evolved over time. She started her culinary
career at the Deli, after leaving a lucrative position in the hospital insurance industry. At
the time, she wanted, as she puts it, to do something more straightforward, more transparent, and slicing cheese for a living seemed like the answer. When she eventually moved
to the prep kitchen and sandwich line, she did so in hopes that it would set a good foundation for her dream of opening her own place. She also trained with chef Alex Young at
Zingermans Roadhouse, who gave her the opportunity to work a full-service restaurant
kitchen.
San Street was her first experience in running a food business, and she says it taught her
crucial lessons. It also allowed her to slowly expand, moving from cart to pop-ups and,
now, a restaurant. After partnering with Zingermans to open Miss Kim, Ji Hye embarked on
another phase of her food education, visiting South Korea and interning at Alice Waters
Rome Sustainable Food Project and with the famous Tuscan butcher, Dario Cecchini. She
also staged at chef Tory Millers Sujeo in Wisconsin and Hooni Kims Hanjan in New York.
Now in her own space, which functions as a kitchen and bar (with beer, cocktails and nonalcoholic drinks designed to enhance Korean flavors), Ji Hye plans to bring the same high
level of flavor and quality to her guests that shes been so inspired by. To ensure the kind of
service customers enjoy at Zingermans businesses, Miss Kim will be a no-tip restaurant. All
front- and back-of-the-house employees will earn hourly pay and benefits.
Ji Hye believes the no-tip model provides clarity for employees when compensation is
guaranteed. For guests, it offers a whole-dining experience instead of arbitrarily breaking
it down to food and service. She points out that in her experience as both a server and frequent diner, the level of service doesnt seem to directly correlate with whether a server
gets paid in tips or not.
We are building an equitable, calm and happy work place with lots of training and clear
systems, says Ji Hye. I believe that will definitely contribute to providing great service to
our guests. And, you know, our food will be delicious!"
- Valentina Silva, Zingerman's Communications Specialist
12
ISSUE # 257
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INTRODUCING: FARMHAND!
Zingerman's Cornman Farms has recently launched FarmHand!
FarmHand Program
Starting at $40/person
FarmHand is a great group activity for schools,
universities, corporations and nonprofits
to experience the outdoors and learn about
the history, farming and culinary practices at
Cornman Farms. Guests can also enjoy a taste
of the farm and take the recipes home with
them!
FarmHand Tour
$40 per person (minimum of 15 guests)
Enjoy a walking tour of our beautifully maintained grounds and production gardens in this
60-minute farm experience. Led by Cornman
Farms Executive Chef and Owner Kieron Hales,
you and your guests will learn about the history of our renovated buildings, including our
1834 Greek Revival Farmhouse and our 1837 Red
Barn, along with our agricultural and culinary
practices. Following the tour, delight in a delicious taste of the farm prepared by our expert
culinary team, and take home one of our signature recipe cards to create the Cornman Farms
experience in your kitchen.
FarmHand Experience
$175 per person (minimum of 15 guests)
In addition to the full tour of our grounds and
production gardens, this 3-hour excursion
includes your choice of breakfast or lunch and
one group activity. Our highly trained staff will
lead your group in the team-building activity
of your choice, such as a Tasting of Fresh Farm
Produce, Olive Oil Tasting, Cheese Tasting,
Coffee Tasting, Food Tasting Tutorial or Farm
Games and Races. Guests will enjoy a farmfresh meal prepared by our expert culinary
team and leave with a seasonal produce basket
and recipe to enjoy a Cornman Farms-inspired
meal at home.
FarmHand Experience:
Cook For A Cause
$200 per person (minimum of 15 guests)
Enjoy a day on the farm with your team while
also giving back to the community! Our Cook
for a Cause program begins with an educational farm tour, followed by a cooking experience where your group will work together with
our staff to help prepare meals for families in
need in Washtenaw County. Your guests will
also enjoy a farm-fresh meal and leave with
a recipe to enjoy a Cornman Farms-inspired
meal at home. We coordinate with local charities to distribute the prepared meals to those
in need in the community.
FarmHand Immersion
$250 per person (minimum of 15 guests)
This half-day immersion experience allows
guests to dive deeper into farm life with a
customizable hands-on program. In addition
to the in-depth tour of our grounds and production gardens, guests will enjoy two meals
on-site, prepared by our expert culinary team
led by Executive Chef Kieron Hales. Our highly
trained staff will guide guests in your choice
of two FarmHand activities, including the
opportunity to host a cooking demonstration
or hands-on cooking experience with Chef
Kieron. Guests can recreate the Cornman
Farms experience at home with a seasonal produce basket and signature recipes.
november
decEmber
Winter is Coming
Paprikash Plate - $14.99
Hunger cowers in the face of
our rich and creamy Chicken
Paprikash. Real Hungarian
paprika, harvested, dried
and stone ground by the
Hodi family, makes this a
truly authentic old world
dish. Served atop house
made nokedli (Hungarian
dumpling noodles), with your
choice of side salad from the
case, this soul warming plate
pledges to heat you from
within as we brace for the
coming of winter.
decEmbER
decEmbER
Price varies
Tender sardines, colorful
octopus, velvety squid
true delicacies of the sea!
Everything Ramn Pea produces is handled with great
care and exudes superior
quality. See for yourself why
they are considered some
of the best that Spain has to
offer.
Ortiz Sardines
drink of
the month
november
december
Mint Mocha
$4.25/cup
Rich and frothy single-origin
drinking chocolate, finished
with a sprinkle of vanilla
bean sugar.
$4.25/short, $5/tall
Brighten up your day with
a
Peppermint
Mocha!
Scharffen Berger cocoa with
espresso, a splash of Monin
mint syrup, topped with
fresh whipped cream. A seasonally delightful twist on
our traditional mocha.
El Rusticocoa
Start planning your 2017 eating adventure! Spaces are filling fast.
Hungary May 8th-18th, 2017
- Walk Central Market Hall, Budapests
homage to food, tasting as we go
foodtours@zingermans.com | 888.316.2736
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
13
SHARING ZINGERMANS
UNIQUE APPROACH
TO BUSINESS
4 Compelling Reasons to
Come to a ZingTrain Seminar!
ZingTrain shares Zingerman's unique and uniquely successful approach to business with
organizations all over the country through two day seminars, four hour workshops,
books, and training DVDs. 22 years ago Maggie Bayless founded ZingTrain. Heres why
Maggie thinks you might want to attend one of our seminars:
3. If youre lonely.
There is a myth perpetuated in our society: If you have a good idea and youre willing to
work hard, you should pretty much be nailing the whole business thing.
But we know that being in business can be hard. We know its even lonelier if youre trying
to create a workplace thats more than just profitable, that also has purpose and a true
commitment to employees and community.
At ZingTrain seminars, youre highly likely to find yourself in a room full of people like
you, listening to people (trainers and attendees alike) like you sharing similar challenges,
hopes and fears and yes, even failures!
Go to www.zingtrain.com to register.
- THE FEED -
Zingermans
Bakehouse
Stollen
In 1329, the Bishop of Naumburg held a
Christmas baking contest. Imagine a medieval fair
and youre on the right track. The trick was that the
baked goods had to be okay for the Advent, which meant
no butter and no sugar. The winner was stollen. It might
have looked pretty similar to the cake we know: an oblong,
footballish-shaped loaf. But it wouldnt have tasted anything like modern stollen. The original stollen would have been just flour, water, yeast, and oil. There
must have been something special about it, thoughthe stollen was such a hit that the Bishop
ordered that a store of grain be set aside every year for the sole purpose of making it.
Val Neff-Rasmussen
Zingerman's Mail Order Product Selection
14
ISSUE # 257
NOV-DEC 2016
from:
A special meal calls for a memorable finish. We have a collection of cakes and tortas that are sure to impress your guests.
Elegant Desserts
Bche De Nol
Esterhzy Torta
Rig Jancsi
Dobos Torta
Krmes
Merry Mint
Chocolate Cake
Appreciated Gifts
Stollen
Gingerbread
Coffee Cake
Beigli
Is Dad ready to learn how to make his first perfect pie crust? Want your friends to join
you for a pizza-making party? Do you want to send Mom on a BAKE!-cation? Give em
a BAKE! gift card and let your loved ones pick the class thats right for them!
Call 734.761.7255 for more information about giving the gift of BAKE!
Weve been buying these exceptionally buttery, creamytextured pecans from the same folks for over a decade
now, and, having taste-tested dozens of others, we keep
coming back to these. When you add in lots of real vanilla
and dark brown, natural Muscovadothe real traditional
brown sugaryouve got one pretty darned good pecan
pie.
Cranberry-Walnut Pie
This ones become one of our most popular pies ever: fresh
cranberries from northern Wisconsin, mixed with walnuts,
sweet butter and real vanilla. The contrasting red of the
cranberries and the autumn browns of the toasted walnuts
mean that its particularly handsome on a well-dressed
holiday table, but I have to admit, it tastes just as good off
paper plates, too.
Jumbleberry Pie
Filled to the brim with a jumble of juicy berriesraspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and
cranberries. Not-too-sweet
and not-too-tart filling inside. Flaky, buttery crust on the outside. A delight to eat.
NovembER
Pumpernickel Raisin Bread
Nov. 4 & 5
Almond Pound Cake
Nov. 10-13
dEcembER
Blueberry Buckle
Dec. 1-4
Pepper Bacon Farm Bread
Dec. 2 & 3
Call Ahead
to Order
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