GQ - September 2016 UK

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H A R R O D S M E N S I N T E R N AT I O N A L G A L L E RY LO W E R G R O U N D F LO O R
43
138
Editors Letter
Michael Wolff
After decades of US indifference to the
UK, will our Brexit breakaway rekindle
the magic of the special relationship?
53
Foreword
Clean-eating detox divas are turning our food
into faddism. GQ serves up a slice of humble pie.
BY YASMIN ALIBHAI-BROWN
106
61
Olympic goddesses; the low-down on
Details
The Get Down; star guitars; the voices of

LA Salami; LCM puts on a great show.
111
Taste
Bernardis beefs
up; Brixton Jamm
packs it in;
10 Castle Street
rules; a tour of
Oxfords sweet
spot, Jericho.
118
Bachelor Pad
165
The art of seduction isnt

just for the bedroom
GQ uses it to liven
up the lounge.
61
99
Tony Parsons
What it means to fall
in love the single
greatest thing a man
can do (ve times).
105
My Style
As son and heir
of The Clashs
Paul Simonon,
model-musician
Louis rocks a
strong look.
105
120
Our Stuff
GQ Fashion Director
Robert Johnston opens
up his little black book.
127
Travel
Londons hotel upgrades;
the luxury railways of
South America; its
Amans world; GQ sails
away in Bermuda.
145
The Style Manual

Tom Odells check point;
Lou Dalton is the best
of British; why Jim
Chapman loves
autumn; Jared Leto
nds Gucci Guilty;
Style Shrink.
160
GQ Preview
Products, events and offers.
165
The Lab
145
Flame on! GQ tests trailblazing barbecues.
168
Watches
As Breitling
unleashes its
latest series,
life in the fast
lane has never
looked so good.
168
173
The Drop
106
Cars
The white-hot Maserati
Levante takes SUV
style up a gear with
Ermenegildo Zegna.
138
Britain bids the EU adieu;

David Brent is on song;
the story of the ill-fated
Constellation; Facebooks
global status update;
Woody Allen returns to
form... again; why coaches
love the Premier League;
galleries in revolt; this
months cultural roundup.
SEPTEMBER 2016 GQ.CO.UK 25
THE REALEST REAL
A CARRIE BROWNSTEIN FILM
KENZO.COM/THEREAL
Jacket, 499. Waistcoat,

175. Jumper, 119.
Jeans, 109. Boots, 399.
All by Polo Ralph Lauren.
ralphlauren.co.uk/polo
240
Polo Ralph Lauren
The first family of American

fashion gets a new London re-up.
Jack Waterlot
Robert Johnston
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
STORY BY
194
King James
183
GQs Paul
Now holding court on Americas

Late Late Show starring sing-along
smash hit Carpool Karaoke James
Corden is talking his way to the top.
Life
Solomons
smashes his
tness roadblocks
in 12 weeks;
secrets of the
supersmart; the
new trend for
aural sex.
BY
Jonathan Heaf
Features
130
On Brexit, Corbyn and Chilcot, Labours

former comms boss takes a moment to reect.
260
Stockists
All the labels in this
months issue.
Alastair Campbell vs himself
202
194
From Miranda Kerr to Rita Ora, GQ lays bare

the most seductive images from photographer
Mariano Vivancos beguiling new book.
264
Out To Lunch
Olympic high-yer
Tom Daley nds an
appetite for dim sum
at Park Chinois.
Scenes of the esh
BY ELEANOR HALLS
210
Is this the bitcoin genius?

GQ meets the mysterious gure behind the
worlds most successful digital currency, but
is credit due or is it just a web of lies?
BY STUART McGURK
216
Wes Lang
We bang the drum for an artist whose body
of work is built around his own tattoos.
202
BY DYLAN JONES
234
David vs Goliath
How British talent David Adjaye stood up to
the titans of global architecture to win a major
new commission on Americas National Mall.
BY ALICE RAWSTHORN
222
222
The GQ Collections, Autumn Winter 2016

A culture war hits the streets, with rebellious streaks
from Boss and Berluti squaring up the cityboy classicism
of Canali and Herms. PHOTOGRAPHS BY Giampaolo Sgura
210
Discover more.
Editor
DYLAN JONES
PA TO THE EDITOR Lottie Stanners
DEPUTY EDITOR Bill Prince
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Paul Solomons
MANAGING EDITOR Mark Russell

SENIOR COMMISSIONING EDITOR Stuart McGurk
ART EDITOR James Ramsay
COMMISSIONING EDITOR Charlie Burton
DESIGNER Oliver Jamieson
PHOTOGRAPHIC DIRECTOR Ger Tierney
FASHION DIRECTOR Robert Johnston
FEATURES DIRECTOR Jonathan Heaf
DESIGN ASSISTANT TO THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Gordon
PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Ryan Grimley
STYLE & GROOMING EDITOR Jessica Punter
HEALTH & SPORTS EDITOR Paul Henderson
ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Anna Akopyan
FASHION EDITOR Grace Gilfeather
FASHION ASSISTANT Carlotta Constant
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR George Chesterton

DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Aaron Callow
GQ.CO.UK NEWS EDITOR Conrad Quilty-Harper
GQ.CO.UK PICTURE EDITOR Ale Baldwin
SUB-EDITOR Kevin Long
GQ.CO.UK INTERNS Ailis Brennan, Zak Maoui
CONTRIBUTING WOMENS EDITOR Katie Grand
JUNIOR SUB-EDITOR Holly Bruce
ASSOCIATE STYLE EDITOR Nick Carvell
GQ.CO.UK FEATURES EDITOR Matt Jones
ENGAGEMENT MANAGER Becky Lucas
STAFF WRITER Eleanor Halls
CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS Luke Day, Elgar Johnson, Luke Leitch, Lou Stoppard
CONTRIBUTING ART EDITOR Adam Clayton
POLITICAL EDITOR Matthew dAncona
CONTRIBUTING STYLE EDITOR Sascha Lilic
EROTIC AFFAIRS EDITOR Rebecca Newman
LUXURY EDITOR Nick Foulkes
COMEDY EDITOR James Mullinger
PROGRAMME MANAGER Liam Keating
LITERARY EDITOR Olivia Cole
FENG SHUI EDITOR Tracey Emin
TABLET PRODUCER Emma Dahlquist
Contributing Editors
Mel Agace, Andrew Anthony, Chris Ayres, Jason Barlow, Stephen Bayley, Tara Bernerd, Heston Blumenthal, Debra Bourne, Michael Bracewell, Jennifer Bradly, Charlie Brooks, Ed Caesar, Alastair Campbell,
Naomi Campbell, Robert Chalmers, Jim Chapman, Nik Cohn, Giles Coren, Victoria Coren Mitchell, Andy Coulson, Adrian Deevoy, Alan Edwards, Robert Elms, David Furnish, AA Gill, Bear Grylls, Sophie Hastings,
Mark Hix, JuliaHobsbawm, Boris Johnson, John Kampfner, Simon Kelner, Rod Liddle, Frank Luntz, Dorian Lynskey, Piers Morgan, John Naughton, Hans-Ulrich Obrist, Dermot OLeary, Ian Osborne,
Tom Parker Bowles, Tony Parsons, Oliver Peyton, Julia Peyton-Jones, Hugo Rifkind, David Rosen, Martin Samuel, Darius Sanai, Kenny Schachter, Simon Schama, Alix Sharkey, Ed Smith,
Ed Vaizey, Ed Victor, Celia Walden, Danny Wallace, Jim White, Michael Wolff, Peter York, Toby Young
Contributing Photographers
Miles Aldridge, Guy Aroch, David Bailey, Coppi Barbieri, Matthew Beedle, Gavin Bond, Richard Burbridge, Richard Cannon, Kenneth Cappello, Matthias Clamer, Dylan Don, Jill Greenberg, Marc Hom,
Benny Horne, Norman Jean Roy, Tony Kelly, Steven Klein, David LaChapelle, Brigitte Lacombe, Joshua Lawrence, Sun Lee, Peter Lindbergh, Steve Neaves, Zed Nelson, Mitch Payne, Vincent Peters,
Sudhir Pithwa, Rankin, Mick Rock, Mark Seliger, Sren Solkr, Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Mariano Vivanco, Matthias Vriens, Nick Wilson, Richard Young
DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson
INTERNATIONAL PERMISSIONS MANAGER Eleanor Sharman
EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER Stephanie Chrisostomou
SYNDICATION syndication@condenast.co.uk
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Open door policy:

Theresa May
assumes her role as
prime minister amid
a startlingly new and
unsettling political
terrain, 12 July
Photograph Getty Images
WELCOME TO
THE AGE OF
UNCERTAINTY
IT seems like a lifetime ago now, but when Brexit Britain woke up on 24 June, the world had
tilted a little on its axis. OK, maybe not the world, but Europe was certainly reeling, as were a
considerable percentage of the UK population. To say the result of the referendum was a surprise
is the political understatement of the year, possibly the political understatement of the millennium. And, as has become lore, the person who was most surprised of all was one of the Leave
campaigns most virulent supporters publicly at least Boris Johnson. The domino effect that
transformed British politics over the following days and weeks is something that will keep journalists, students and political analysts occupied for decades to come.
In cases like these, context is everything, which is why having an international perspective
on Brexit becomes increasingly relevant, not just from mainland Europe, but from the US too.
Having largely ignored the topic for months, the New York Times eventually kicked into gear,
spluttering about the pros and cons of the result (cons, mainly), and the reaction in the US was
generally one of bewilderment and shock. Michael Wolffs predictably trenchant piece in this
issue underscores yet again what a keen political and media observer he is, a journalist who
not only never takes the shortest journey between a story and its interpretation, but who also
would never conceive of doing so. He processes news in a way that very few writers these days
attempt to, principally by stepping back from the story and staring at it until it bends to his will.
Which is to say, one never quite knows what angle he is going to take.
In this issue youll also nd Matthew dAnconas typically measured
appraisal of the topic. DAnconas own skills are based on his ability
to always keep his head while those around him are losing theirs. As
the former editor of the Spectator, he was a keen supporter of David
Cameron, while managing to marshal and control a small army of rightof-centre polemicists; in his current role at the Guardian, he not only
explains the motivations of the right to a resolutely left-leaning audience, he somehow manages to detoxify it too.
The Brexit fallout has been a gift to all kinds of political experts (many
of whom display absolutely no expertise at all), including those who
think that the outcome of the referendum was the end result of a chain
Brexit has been a gift

to all kinds of experts,
many of whom show
no expertise at all
Cover: Suit, 1,080, Shirt, 150. Both by Canali.

canali.com. Tie by Tom Ford, 160. At Harrods.
harrods.com. Pocket square by Eton, 40. At
Harvey Nichols. harveynichols.com. Watch by
Cartier, 6,500. cartier.com. Photograph by
Sebastian Faena
Dylan Jones, Editor

44 GQ.CO.UK SEPTEMBER 2016
Follow us
@britishgq
@dylanjonesgq
Explore a range of creative installations and events celebrating

Londons vibrant design scene at the London Design Festival
2016 (17-25 September). The annual event has been showcasing
the work of designers, architects, artists and retailers since
2003, and this year will feature over 400 exhibitions and
pop-ups all over the capital.
Football And The Will: How

To Create The Perfect Team
by Steve Dickson (Adam &
Eve Publishing. 6.99). In this
fascinating book, Dickson
used two philosophical ideas
(from Schopenhauer and
Heidegger) to explore exactly
what a great football team is
and what is necessary to
build one. This is an essential
read for the season ahead.
One of the joys of the summer

has been spotting Dylans
Mobile Bookstore at various
festivals throughout the UK.
Dreamt up three years ago by
former antiquarian bookseller
Jeff Towns and his son Joe in
a bar in Laugharne, this is the
perfect way to spend an hour
or so while youre waiting for
Kasabian/Catsh and the
Bottlemen/Jeff Lynnes ELO
to bounce onstage.
Dolce & Gabbanas 6cm printed silk

ties (135). Everyone and their mother
is queuing up to tell you that you cant
wear ties anymore, especially if you
want to get into a Soho House, and yet
not only do we still need to wear the
damn things, many of us actually like
doing so. Trust me, wearing a tie
can still frighten the living
daylights out of people.
Aventus eau de parfum by

Creed (105). Personally
speaking, I rarely wear
anything other than Creeds
Green Irish Tweed, and yet
the company keeps making
valiant attempts to convince
me to trade on. This is
actually one of its ner
efforts, and is a laudable
addition to its range.
Eau, Lordy!
Photograph London Design Festival
of events that started with the invasion of Iraq (and on page 130 you
can read Alastair Campbell interviewing himself about the Chilcot Report),
via New Labours immigration policy, the nancial crisis at the end of the
noughties and the MPs expenses scandal, leaving whole swathes of the
population aghast at the state of institutional indifference. Hey, hasnt
everyone got a theory right now? If the past six weeks have proven anything, its that where politics is concerned much like Hollywood no
one knows anything.
As for the subject of dAncona and Wolffs stories this month, for a while
it was difcult to nd fault with the following missive, one that made
the rounds on social media in the aftermath of the result. For those who
voted for revolution, it is perhaps less salient, yet for many including, I
would imagine, many of those who were shocked that their protest votes
had helped nudge the Leavers over the line its ironies were manifold.
The lmmaker Benjamin Timothy Blaine put the following post up on
Facebook soon after the result became irrefutable. It bounced around online
for ages, and yet it still holds up as a snapshot of an extraordinary quicksilver moment in British politics: So, let me get this straight... the leader
of the opposition campaigned to stay but secretly wanted to leave, so his
party held a non-binding vote to shame him into resigning so someone else
could lead the campaign to ignore the result of the non-binding referendum which many people now think was just angry people trying to shame
politicians into seeing theyd all done nothing to help them.
Meanwhile, the man who campaigned to leave because he hoped losing
would help him win the leadership of his party, accidentally won and
ruined any chance of leading because the man who thought he couldnt
lose, did but resigned before actually doing the thing the vote had
been about. The man whod always thought hed lead next, campaigned
so badly that everyone thought he was lying when he said the economy
would crash and he was, but it did, but hes not resigned, but, like the
man who lost and the man who won, also now cant become leader. Which
means the woman who quietly campaigned to stay but always said she
wanted to leave is likely to become leader instead.
Which means she holds the same view as the leader of the opposition
but for opposite reasons, but her partys view of this view is the opposite of the oppositions. And the opposition arent yet opposing anything
because the leader isnt listening to his party, who arent listening to the
country, who arent listening to experts or possibly paying that much attention at all. However, none of their opponents actually want to be the one to do the
thing that the vote was about, so theres
not yet anything actually on the table to
oppose anyway. And if no one ever does
do the thing that most people asked them
to do, it will be undemocratic and if any
one ever does do it, it will be awful.
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Contributors
Alice
RAWSTHORN
Sebastian FAENA
Photographer Sebastian Faena did not expect comedian, writer and
now US chat show host James Corden to be so reserved. Faena, who
has shot Cindy Crawford and Kate Upton, was surprised when he met
this months cover star. I found a sweet, kind man who was actually
quiet, says Faena. Quiet, that is, until Corden produced his on-set
playlist and began singing at the top of his voice.
David Adjaye is the British

architect behind the National
Museum Of African American
History And Culture, which
opens in Washington DC next
month. Alice Rawsthorn,
author, journalist and former
director of the Design Museum,
spoke to him about this epic
project. Adjaye expresses the
buildings spirit in its structure.
The more you interrogate the
thinking behind his projects, the
more intriguing they become.
AA GILL
AA Gill can remember every
stag hes ever stalked. On
GQ.co.uk, Gill takes us back to
his rst ever deer kill 33 years
ago, which gave him a taste
for the hunt. For the rst
time I caught that smell, that
heavy, delicious, repellent
scent of cud and blood,
writes Gill. And yet, deer
stalking is only the half of it.
Gills story is about something
much deeper. I think its
about smoking. And typing.
And my grandfather.
Luke DAY
The September issue can only mean one
thing: GQ Collections, a biannual feature
bringing together the best looks by the top
designers in menswear right now. Luke Day,
Editor of GQ Style, styled the shoots so
which trends does he think will translate
most directly onto the high street? Military
coats, he says, and punk inspired denims.
Photograph Rex
Stuart McGURK
Who is Satoshi Nakamoto? As the inventor
of bitcoin the virtual currency worth
billions Nakamatos true identity is the
subject of wild speculation, according to GQs
Senior Commissioning Editor, Stuart McGurk.
A man called Craig Wright was the rst to
claim the title but, far from being the end
of the story, it was just the start.
Mariano
VIVANCO
Mariano Vivanco believes
beauty is clearest in black
and white. This is the concept
behind his latest book,
Portraits Nudes Flowers,
a collection of monochrome
images of actors, models and
musicians including Emma
Watson, Candice Swanepoel
and Rita Ora, a selection
of which you can see on
page 202. Initially, I had
no plan to pair owers and
portraits, explains Vivanco,
who has shot a host of
GQ cover stars including
Rihanna, Ora and Lana Del
Ray. But as time developed
I saw striking similarities.
E XPE CT THE UNE XPE CTE D
B IL L IONA IR EC OU TU R E.C OM
Room for more:

The strict rules
of some fad diets
are turning
meals into a
moral crusade
FOOD, INGLORIOUS FOOD

The cult of clean eating was once the preserve of detox divas and their pious disciples, but its
only a matter of time before these fads target men, too. Join the ght to keep our dishes dirty
STORY BY
gaggle of third-year media students all female ask if I

can meet them one evening and talk to them about newspapers and broadcasting and my professional journey.
They want to meet at a nice restaurant in Notting Hill and
offer to buy me dinner. I agree. Six of them turn up, all
smart, stylish, condent. We order drinks and they ask me questions
about why and how and when I became a journalist and columnist.
They are animated and eager. The menu arrives and all but one of them
claim to have various food allergies or sensitivities. Between them,
they reject all dairy products, meat dishes, carbs and sugar. Fish is ne,
but they need detailed information on where it came from. Beatrice
(not her real name) has read somewhere that aubergines cause gastroenteritis and so she wants courgettes. They dont have courgettes
in the kitchen. It takes forever, is tedious and embarrassing. I order a
steak sandwich and cheesy leeks. Beatrice wants to know how, with so
Illustration Michel Streich
Yasmin Alibhai-Brown
much online malevolence I stay strong and feisty. Its the meat, bread,
chips and cakes I eat, I reply facetiously. The food faddies look disappointed. Their role model, it turns out, is a vulgar glutton. The next
day, some of these ne looking ladies send me extensive published
tracts on healthy eating. The emails go into the junk box.
You see them everywhere, teenage girls and young women who
carry garish, plastic mugs and swig sludge turd brown or pond green.
I blame Gwyneth Paltrow for this nauseating craze. The Hollywood star
metamorphosed into a food sage and now holds sway over millions
of dippy females around the world. Here is one enthusiast, Catherine
Kast, a reporter and writer for People, the US magazine: Whenever
Gwyneth Paltrow posts anything involving food, the internet goes
wild, and so did I. Paltrows bestselling 2013 book, Its All Good:
Delicious, Easy Recipes That Will Make You Look And Feel Great was
neurotic and fanciful. A plate of fries, she claimed, nearly killed her
and set her off on a tough journey to culinary nirvana. She gave
up all regular foodstuffs including dairy, sugar, gluten, peppers, aubergines, soy, fatty nuts, meat and shellsh and virtuously lled up
on, yes, spirulina, protein powders, chlorophyll and other weird stuff.
The radical change made her feel much lighter, pure and happy.
Now, this modern Mother Teresa renounces her own previous pieties.
She, who tum-washed so many, says its over, no more elimination
diets, no more kale tries. Her new cookbook celebrates healing
food, such as chocolate mousse made with avocado, almond butter,
brown rice syrup and cacao. We could just laugh and hope the latest
mania will pass. It wont, for we now have a growing line of clones,
detox divas, as the food writer Felicity Cloake describes them.
Theyre taking over the rst world.
Almost all of them are smart, cutesie, slender, groomed and glossy,
have porcelain teeth, plummy accents, blissful friends and families.
Their lives were bad, sad or mad before they discovered, yes, pure and
perfect food. And they so want to share their precious secrets
with us lumpen commoners.
Look, here comes Henrietta Inman bringing
Clean Cakes, which contain no gluten, dairy
or rened sugar and heaps of Himalayan
pink salt, Palmyra nectar powder, bee
pollen and Arctic power berries. Sara
Wilson is into a no-sugar, toxinfree, anti-compulsion living. The
current queen of clean food
is Ella Woodward, daughter of
ex-Labour MP Shaun Woodward
and heiress Camilla Sainsbury,
who became a vegan, started
a blog, then wrote Deliciously
Ella, the fastest-selling debut
cookbook ever. Try this for
starters: This is the best bowl.
I feel amazing at the end of it!
The carrot and sweet potato mash
is just a dream! Nut and pea quinoa
is making me feel so good!
Some of Ellas dishes do look appetising, but she, like others in this pack,
sells herself as the new ascetic redeemer
come down to save the world. Tess Ward,
whose book is called The Naked Diet, appears to
believe spelt can help ght bowel cancer and recommends
stripping ingredients right back down to their bare essentials.
What does that mean? Peel a carrot? Wash mushrooms? Madeleine
Shaw, blogger and modern day hunter-gatherer, is convinced modern
wheat is wicked because it has shorter roots than the wheat they ate
in ancient times. Her food, apparently, can nourish the body and soul.
OK, these enterprising women are inventive and plucky. They
create cravings, have assembled a narrative and become astute suppliers. But I am getting increasingly dismayed as more prissy foodies
invade the cultural space and the trend becomes a surge. Jay Rayner
denounces their joylessness, piety, self-regard, self-delusion and
staggering pomposity. And, I would add, the untested science and
therapeutic claims.
Some of these zealots are criminally irresponsible. Belle Gibson, an
Australian Instagram messiah built up a massive fanbase and fortune
after claiming her eating regime had cured her of cancer. Turned out
to be untrue. Delicious Ella felt betrayed by this wonderful healthyeating blogging community.
Miracle diets have always been with us. They come, they go, like
oats in the carnival of life. This clean food movement is different.
Its advocates have online access to millions of hungry, self-loathing
teenagers and young females looking for magic potions that will make
them look like models or pop stars. Research shows most females in
the UK hate their bodies, think theyre too fat or awed. Hell, Im one
of them. I must have eaten 5,000 grapefruits in the Seventies before,
during and after meals. I stayed round and plump like an apricot.
Ella, Tess and the gang afrm some of the most damaging psychodramas of modern femininity. Like misery memoirs, they whip up fears
and insecurities. Food is the enemy, the inltrator, the delivery system
of foulness into the body. There is sin and retribution in the simple
human act of eating: scoff yoghurt (dairy), bread (gluten), nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, peppers), meat and shellsh and your
body will punish you by getting fat and spotty. Men, in general, are
not prone to these anxieties. They dont buy these puritanical cookbooks, dont fall for such bunkum.
I know four twentysomething females, all fanatical
devotees of Woodward. Month after month, they
eat what she eats and still, not one has her hair,
style, body shape or panache. They feel
guilty and somehow responsible for this
failure. University students used to
eat Pot Noodles, curries and chips.
Now they have juicers and consume
sludge. See above. Daughters are
refusing to eat with families and
are rude about roast dinners and
pasta carbonara. Sarah, a TV
producer, says mealtimes are
more fraught now than when
her daughter was a toddler. I
cook from scratch, never use
ready sauces or boxed grub, she
says. Now my daughter makes
me feel like a poisoner and ruins
every mealtime. Honestly, the arrogance and righteousness of the girl
and her mates as they put together a
delish plate of pretentiousness, sorry,
vegan recipes, which are always so exciting!
This is fanaticism of food. So it is.
At a girls school I spoke at, all but three of the
30 pupils in the class were off dairy and only drank soya
milk. They said they had food allergies and illnesses that were
linked to bad food. Some were string thin and survived on steamed
veg and a few nuts. The head teacher told me that she had noticed
more pupils displaying obsessive behaviours and body dysmorphia.
So sorry to spoil the vegan/clean/naked/perfect food party. Good
food, like good sex, is impure and sensual, not ordered, anaesthetised
and prescriptive. Detox divas are messing with our heads, demoralising
our daughters and spoiling lifes appetites. Why isnt there a feminist
ghtback against this destructive trend? Because it is easier to blame
men for our ills than to confront the enemy within.
They whip up
fears and
insecurities.
Food is the
enemy and
there is sin and
retribution in
the simple act
of eating
MORE
FROM GQ
For these related stories, visitGQ.co.uk/magazine
The Schlock Of The New: How Digital Life Got Messy (Tom Goodwin, August 2016)
Real Men Do Do Therapy (Louise Chunn, July 2016)
Love Is The Tinder Trap (Stuart McGurk, June 2016)
73 DUKE STREET, MAYFAIR, LONDON
privatewhitevc.com
harder than
you think
diesel.com
HUGOBOSS.COM
the get down
p.62
la salami
p.63
unbuilt architecture
p.70
urban beaches
p.74
CHARLIE BURTON
Genie Bouchard (@geniebouchard),

tennis, Canada
Jaqueline Carvalho (@jaque1212),

volleyball, Brazil
Brooke Sweat (@brookesweat),

beach volleyball, USA
E D I T E D BY
Ella Nelson (@ellanelson200),

200m, Australia
Ellen Hoog (@ellen_hoog),

eld hockey, the Netherlands
Michelle Jenneke (@mjenneke93),

100m hurdles, Australia
gq intel
rio 2016 will
be the biggest
social media olympics
in history, with an
estimated three
billion people using
mobile devices as they
watch the action
unfold on tv
THE
GOLDEN
Photographs Instagram
Ana Ivanovic (@anaivanovic),

tennis, Serbia
Tonia Couch (@toniacouch),

diving, Great Britain
Annaliese Rubie (@annelieserubie),

400m, Australia
GIRLS
LETS be candid: the appeal of the Olympics goes beyond the immediate sense of competition. While were not for a moment suggesting that
the nation isnt primarily drawn to the beach volleyball for its athleticism, there is, well, a scintilla of pleasure to be found in marvelling at the
nely tuned physiques on display. And this year, theres a cohort of women heading to Rio determined not only to be stars of track and eld,
pool and pitch, but also after Instagram clocked up millions of views during London 2012 to emerge triumphant on social media. For your
convenience youll nd these Instathletes pictured here, from Ana Ivanovic to Michelle Jenneke. Hit follow; win the summer... CB
CHEAT
SHEET
HACK YOUR SUMMER BETTER

You can enjoy the long days or you can nail them. Here are four
life hacks that will give your downtime an extra ten per cent...
Swim by yourself
Waterproof
your summer shoes
Sartre was right: hell is other people, as anyone who has

ventured into a local pool on a Saturday morning can attest.
The key is to ditch the lanes in favour of wild swimming in
secluded natural waters, and youll nd favourable sites at
wildswimming.co.uk. The best one near the capital? Head out
to Pangbourne, Berkshire for a picturesque, safe stretch of river.
Since 2007 the UK has been in a cycle of wetter Augusts

thanks to shifting ocean currents. And yet the shoe of the
summer is the eminently permeable espadrille! Our advice
is to buy some beeswax and rub it all over the upper. Next,
use a hair dryer to melt the wax before leaving it to dry as
a waterproof seal. Take that, climate change.
Chill your wine rapidly
Get a charcoal grill roaring
When youre throwing a party and you need to re-up the wine
situation, bottles can take a preposterously long time to cool.
Heres a pro trick to have in your locker: take a wet paper
towel and wrap it around the bottle before you put it in the
freezer. Youll have the wine at perfect drinking temperature
within 15 minutes.
Lighter uid will ruin the taste of your food. Instead, take an
empty can and rip the label off. Using the tin opener from your
penknife, punch holes around the base and ll the rst third of
the can with cooking-oil soaked paper towels and the rest with
charcoal. Light at the base and once its blazing, tip the hot coals
into the grill and pile more coal on top. You have ignition. CB
THE TV SERIES: THE GET DOWN

HERES what Netixs The Get Down has got going on: a tale about the birth of disco, punk and
hip-hop in the Seventies South Bronx; Baz Luhrmann in the directors chair; Jaden Smith in a
seriousrole; and Grandmaster Flash advising. (Yes, were psyched too.) Flash, of course, was one
ofhip-hops pioneers but theres always been a mystery who actually invented scratching, Flash
orfellow DJ Grand Wizard Theodore? We asked Flash for his take...
Well, let me clear this up. Im credited with being the rst DJ to put my ngertips on the record
which allows crabbing, scratching. And my rst student was Grand Wizard Theodore because his
big brother [Gene Mean Gene Livingston] was my DJ partner. But when I tried to show Mean Gene
[scratching], he couldnt gure it out. But then I said, Whos this little guy playing around with
theturntable? Oh, he replied. Its my little brother, Theodore. When Gene used to go out I would
sneak Theodore in and show him how to scratch. Theodore was one of the very rst to get it. Then
he added his own innovations and it went on and on. Eleanor Halls The Get Down is out on 12 August.
A slice of style:
LA Salami opened
Burberrys spring/
summer show at
Hyde Park
last year
Illustrations The Red Dress Photograph Diane Sagnier
THE
THE
RISING
S TA R
HIS INNER
VOICE
Folk musician LA Salami
is breaking through
thanks to a highly
unusual collaboration
LOOKMAN Adekunle Salami or
LA Salami as his records sleeves
would have it has a peculiar
inspiration. He credits his talents,
which have caught the attention of
everyone from Lianne La Havas (his
touring partner in 2012) to Christopher
Bailey (Salami follows in the footsteps
of Tom Odell and George Ezra in
playing for Burberry) to one man:
Papa Stokely. Whos he? A voice in
his head. Hes been in my head all
my life, says Salami. Hes what
keeps me motivated.
His upcoming album Dancing With
Bad Grammar is as introspective
as you might imagine, given its
psychological origins, probing
subjects such as death, love,
philosophy and the urban
gq intel
so far, salami
experience. He repaid Papa
has written nine
Stokely by making him
albums worth of
material, although
a character on the record.
his next record is his
The songs have a gentle
first commercial
release
optimism. Having grown up
in a foster home, been evicted
from several homes thereafter and
slept rough on the streets of London,
Salami is used to accentuating the
positive. I wanted to make the cruel,
ugly things in life beautiful by ltering
them through music, he says. Still, the
lyrics have a dark humour. I Wear
This Because Life Is War references
the dog tag that he has worn around
his neck ever since he found it on
a London estate aged 12. Its so
they can recognise my corpse.
Next up, Salamis hip-hop side
project, T.U.S.K. (The Unscene
Supper Klub). A group that features?
Papa Stokely, of course... EH
The City Nowadays is out now;
Dancing With Bad Grammar is
out on 26 August.
I wanted to
make the cruel,
ugly things
in life beautiful
2016 COACH
SE E T H E F I L M ON S A N DRO - PA R I S .COM
FA L L/ W I N T E R 16/17
THE
MUSIC
BOOK
THE AXEMEN
COMETH
The history of the world
might be the biography
of great men (hat tip:
Thomas Carlyle), but the
history of rock music
can be told through
guitars at least thats
the contention of Bruce
Wexlers new book,
which shows how
developments in guitar
design chart the
transformation of
musical tastes and
inuencers from
Twenties pop via the
growth of rock to the
present day. Herewith,
four favourites...
Photographs Bruce Wexler
the history of rock

in fty guitars
(the history press
ltd, 12.99) is
out now
Epiphone Buzzsaw
Fender Floral
Rickenbacker 360
Fender Electric XII
zakk wylde,
ozzy osbourne
james burton,
elvis presley
roger m c guinn,
the byrds
jimmy page,
led zeppelin
Les Pauls had an atavistic quality for

Wylde, who rst bought one in honour
of deceased Osbourne guitarist
Randy Rhoads, and he gave his ones
distinctive paint jobs. The background
colour of the Buzzsaw, was based on
the car in The Dukes Of Hazzard.
Session musician Burtons axe was the

workmanlike Telecaster. Its a model
associated with plain (often battered)
looks, making this oral edition
inspired by 1967s Summer Of Love,
remarkable. It became a key visual
feature of Elvis Vegas shows.
Early adopters of this 1964 12-string

included George Harrison, but its poster
boy was McGuinn. The string pairings
differed from other manufacturers,
giving it a jangly sound that afforded his
version of Bob Dylans Mr. Tambourine
Man a zing that helped it to No1.
Led Zeppelins full sound a mix

ofblues, rock, acoustic and big
melodies demanded a 12-string
guitar.With its rich bass, clear treble
and easy picking, the Electric XII was
Pages natural choice for Stairway
ToHeaven in 1971. CB
SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST
THE
MOVIE
As Blake Lively gets into deep trouble in The Shallows,

GQ surveys the Trapped-In-An-Unlikely-Situation genre...
TREND
bring your
a game
no 21
THE SHAW
SWIMMING METHOD
Drained by front
crawl? Youre doing it
wrong. Learn from cult
instructor Steven Shaw
INTENSE
NONSENSE
frozen*
who
Adventurer
James Franco
Young skiers
ShawnAshmore,
Emma Bell and
Kevin Zegers
stuck
With his arm

under a boulder
for ve-anda-bit days
On a chairlift
because
Doh! He didnt
tell anyone
where he
wasgoing
real
reason
Hes complacent
about his
lovedones
They
wanted
one last go
on the slopes
Theyre spoilt
college kids
the shallows
buried
atm
247f
Surfer
BlakeLively
Truck driver
Ryan Reynolds
Colleagues
AliceEve and
BrianGeraghty
Party kids Scout

Taylor-Compton
and Travis
VanWinkle
On a rock in
thesea
In a coffin under
the Iraqi desert
Theres
a great
white
shark
Hes been
kidnapped
bylocals
In a walkincash
machine
In a sauna
Theres a
killeroutside
They are
totalidiots
Shes grieving
for her late
mother
Hes an
American
interloper
Buried writer
Chris Sparling
needed
anotherhit
Gratuitous
bikinishots
Shes
200yards
fromshore
Theres
asnake
inthere
Brian
fanciesAlice
Breaking the
window ups the
temperature
Were
lockedin!
Why not make

it hotter than it
already is, huh?
curveball
Hello, blunt
penknife
Wolves are
gathering
below
sample
dialogue
This rock
has been
waiting for me
my entire life!
We have
to get off
these chairs!
Get out!
SHAAAAARK!
Im buried in
abox!
could it
happen
to you?
It did, to
AronRalston
Yes. Yes it could
On a really
badday
Kinda unlikely
1 Only start pulling back

with one hand as the other
is about to enter the water
(ngertips rst).
No! Go
contactless
2 Use your lower arm to

pull backwards. Stretch the
front hand forwards as you
do so, allowing your body,
not your head, to rotate.
3 On the rst stroke look

down. Hold your breath.
Next, look forwards and
exhale. On the third stroke
turn your head and inhale.
Worst. Swingers.
Party. Ever.
Matt Glasby
4 Keep the front arm

pointing down. This will
raise your rear arm further
out of the water, affording
you more time to breathe.
GQ
BAND
Do something
different this month;
tune into these
new sounds...
into
into
into
into
TAME IMPALA?
TOM WAITS?
HINDS?
SUFJAN STEVENS?
try
try
try
try
CORBU
ED HARCOURT
THE PARROTS
NEDELLE TORRISI
This Brooklyn indie/

electro pop outt
make a lasting rst
impression with their
ambitious, trippy
concept album about
space and death.
Harcourt turns his

rapier wit on modern
culture, male egos
and the environment.
Avery English exercise
in social commentary
and anger. Furnaces
Madrid has become

one of the worlds
garage rock capitals.
On this debut, The
Parrots make a claim to
be the scenes slacker
kings. Los Nios Sin Miedo
A longtime collaborator
of Sufjan Stevens and
ArielPink, Torrisi turns
her hazy, West Coast
sound to a break-up
record thats irresistibly
cool. Advice From Paradise
CrayonSoul is out now.
isout on19August.
is out on 26 August.
isoutnow. Kevin Perry
5 Kick from your hips and

only put effort into the
downwards movement.
Because thats the key:
relax. artofswimming.com
*Not that one! Photographs Alamy; Landmark; Rex
127 hours
these
cantilevered
buildings are a
proposal for a
spa resort and
restaurant atop
table cape in
tasmania
THE
CABINET
UP
GRADE
AMBER
RUDDS
PLACE
IS AT
HOME
THE
DESIGN
PAG E
A CONVERSATION PRIMER ON MIR

The hottest designers youve never heard of
THE Norwegian studio Mir may be one of the most prolic creators of large-scale architectural projects
in the world, but its buildings dont actually exist. Instead, the company specialises in unbuilt
architecture, creating visualisations with a level of computer-generated naturalism to match a James
Cameron lm, all to serve the likes of Zaha Hadids practice. Yet Mirs striking images (pictured, a Dubai
design for KPF architects) have gained such traction online as artworks in their own right that its
fandom has now grown way beyond its clientele. Trond Greve, who co-founded Mir in 2011, puts this
down to the attention the company gives to the environment around the structures. We grew up
playing in the forest, shing the fjords and skiing the mountains, he says. Our focus is as much on the
ephemeral as on the architecture itself. People are attracted to things they can relate to emotionally. The
result: if you drop the name in front of a design-oriented friend, youll earn serious props. CB mir.no
Photographs Mir.no; Alamy; Getty Images; Rex
Theresa May had

the political nous
required to survive
six years as home
secretary so how
will her successor,
Amber Rudd, fare in
the job? Well, lets
consider her career
to date. The onetime aristocratic
coordinator on Four
Weddings And A
Funeral once let slip
that she only ran for
her Hastings and Rye
seat because it was
within two hours of
London and I could
see we were going
towin it; formerly
atEnergy And
Climate Change, she
alienated a host of
environmental groups;
and her ex-husband,
AA Gill who
referred to her as
Silver Spoon in
hiscolumns has
said he never saw
her as a potential
MP. What could
possibly go wrong?
New heights:
Atlantis,
Dubai (2014),
from the
architectural
visualisation
specialist Mir
THE
SPORTS
MEN
Claudio Ranieri
leicester city (returning)
Arsne Wenger
Antonio Conte
arsenal
(returning)
chelsea (new)
Jrgen Klopp
Mauricio
Pochettino
liverpool
(returning)
tottenham
hotspur
(returning)
24: Number of league

titles won by these
managers collectively
key
Jos Mourinho
Pep Guardiola
manchester united (new)
manchester city (new)
Outspoken respect
Worked together
Rivals off-pitch
Challenged for
Premier League
title last season
Challenged for
Premier League title
before last season
Challenged for title
in a foreign league
BEASTS of the FIELD
The new Premier League season kicks off the greatest managerial battle
in the history of football. Heres how the tactical titans face off...
THE INSTA CLASSICS
@ F * * *J E R RY
Take a picture; it lasts longer. Even better, let Instagram do it for

you. Here arethe three funniest gramsweveseen thismonth.
@ B OYW I T H N OJ O B
@ B E TC H E S
THE
STYLE
GUIDE
THE
POWER
HOW LINEN
SHIRTS
GOT COOL
Shirt by Orlebar Brown,

175. orlebarbrown.co.uk
Sunglasses by Ray-Ban,
125. ray-ban.com
Rucksack by Bally,
1,250. bally.co.uk
Watch by Paul Smith,
220. paulsmith.co.uk
A fresh trend in street

style is breathing new life
into a holiday mainstay
Lets get this out of

the way: you cant
make a reservation.
Our advice? Suck it
up, because youll
bequeuing with all
the right people.
TheBarbary comes
courtesy of theteam
behind Jerusalemcuisine restaurant The
Palomar, which, as
one of the current
stars of the London
dining scene, is quite
the pedigree. Seating
just 24, the restaurant
is no less intimate
than its sibling but
this time the concept
is food from the
Barbary Coast (the
central and western
parts of north Africa).
The pata negra neck
(blackened on the
outside, pink in the
middle) and the
hash cake dessert
(an intense pistachio
and date pie) were
some of the best
things weve eaten for
months. In a sense,
the no-res policy is a
blessing if they took
bookings, you might
never get one. CB
16 Neals Yard, Seven
Dials, London WC2.
thebarbary.co.uk
sp
ot th e
st
iu
oo
t he p re m
ls
THE
BAR
re
o n t he l
e
t-
ha
n d co rn e
Grooming Dani Guinsberg at Carol Hayes Management using Dermalogica and Bumble And Bumble Model George Admiraal at Models1
PHOTOGRAPH BY
Olly Burn
carry it off
with the four
golden rules
1
DO N T DO WH ITE
Its a clich. Keep
things up-to-date by
opting for a colour.
2
DO U B LE LI N E N
Its a fashion crime
on a par with
double denim.
3
F IT I S
E VE RY TH I N G
The shoulder seam
should sit at the end of
your shoulder; the fabric
should only give three
inches around your
stomach when pulled;
and the cuff should fall
where wrist meets hand.
4
M IX IT U P
Pure linen has very little
elasticity, hence the
wrinkles. If looking
unironed lls you with
dread, buy a shirt made
from a linen blend.
LINEN shirts have a bad rep. We get it. The creasing, the billows, the connotations of middle-aged history teachers
holidaying in Normandy. But if you subscribe to all that then we can only assume you havent left the house this
summer. Spurred by enthusiasm from on-point designers including Herms and Ralph Lauren, the fabric has
become a street-style staple, proving that cut right and worn smart its a rewarding extra gear for your wardrobe.
And its a practical one to boot: made from ax bres, linen has a much lower thread count (and therefore higher
breathability) than cotton. So when the mercury rises, iron out your objections and observe the rules above... CB
A line in the sand:

Londons pop-up
beaches offer
everything from
cocktails to cabanas
THE
RUMOUR
MILL
THE
LONDON
by
alex wickham
SCENE
HANG OUT on an URBAN BEACH

You dont need to head to the coast to nd some sand: this summer, London has
plenty. From articial coastlines to indoor simulacra, heres where to hit...
Beach East
Myki Sand Bar
Best for: Family guys

Beach: 2,200 sq m
Best for: Rainy days

Beach: 79 sq m
While theres plenty

here for adults beach
bars serving beers and
cocktails, live music,
DJs and volleyball
theres also a fairground
so you can earn
good-guy points by
bringing your niece
along in tow.
Make yours a: Vedett
Blonde (5.50).
Until 10pm. Queen
Elizabeth Olympic Park
E20. beacheast.co.uk
It might be inside the

Archer Street bar, but
Myki goes to theatrical
lengths to emulate a
chic beach club. Theres
sand, obviously, but also
a crisp interior, tropical
plants and backdrops
that change throughout
the evening.
Make yours a:
Heatwave (12.50).
Until 1am. 3-4 Archer
Street W1. archerstreet.
co.uk
Brixton Beach
Boulevard
CopaCabana
Beach 338
Best for: Celebrations

Beach: 350 sq m
Best for: Olympic

action
Beach: 500 sq m
Best for: Clubbing

Beach: 600 sq m
Inspired by Eighties
Miami Beach, this
rooftop sandscape plays
host to screenings and
parties (after 8pm it
becomes a nightclub).
Themed private rooms
are available for events.
Make yours a: John
McClanes Mojito (7).
Thurs, 6pm-11pm; Fri-Sat,
1pm-12am. Popes Road,
SW9. brixtonbeachboulevard.com
Inspired by Rio 2016,

the Southbank Centres
urban beach is back,
complete with a
Brazil-style lifeguard
posto (its actually a
bar), bossa nova music
and a food tram.
Make yours a:
Caipirinha (6.95).
Until late. Southbank
Centre, Belvedere Road,
SE1. southbankcentre.
co.uk
Attached to the
gargantuan Ibiza-style
nightclub Studio 338,
Beach 338 is as vast as
you would expect. It has
a capacity of up to 3,000
people and features
barbecues, hot tubs,
cabanas, hammocks, oh,
and a 23-hour licence.
Make yours a: Jack
Daniels & Coke (5). CB
Until late. 338 Boord
Street SE10. studio338.
co.uk
THE BOOK: HOW TO PERSUADE ANYONE

Robert Cialdinis 1984 book Inuence was taken by many as the last word on the science of
inducement. But now the social psychologist is back to explain a crucial new piece of research.
His upcoming volume, Pre-Suasion, argues that its also vital to make subjects receptive
to a message before they encounter it. Here are two things we learned...
Channel caprice: In a study, asking the pre-suasive opener, Do you consider yourself to be somebody
who is adventurous and likes to try new things made 75.7 per cent of subjects inclined to hand over
personal details for a marketing campaign. Forcing people to brand themselves as adventurous, happy
or helpful tees them up for how they later engage in the conversation.
Cultivate debt: People are hardwired to reciprocate. Dutch residents were more likely to nish a survey if
apayment was enclosed rather than promised later on. Equally, US hotels that asked guests to reuse towels
found using a note was 47 per cent more effective if it informed guests that a donation to an environmental
charity had been made in their name. CB Pre-Suasion (Cornerstone, 18.99) is out on 8 September.
How did Jeremy Corbyn

end up on comedy show
The Last Leg? Staff at
Labour HQ forwarded
Channel 4s media bid on
to Jezzas ofce as a joke,
but instead of politely
declining as expected,
the amateurs in Team
Corbyn horried their
colleagues by saying yes!
During the referendum,
Eurosceptic Tory MP
Tom Pursglove received
a prank call from a
man claiming to be
DonaldTrump, offering
his support for the Leave
campaign. Pursglove fell
for it hook, line and
sinker. Why? Turns out
the backbencher is quite
pally with The Donald...
Wannabe Tory MPs
have submitted their
applications for 2020
and are going through
the vetting process.
One prospective
parliamentarian was told
to remove all evidence of
their university polo club
days from the internet.
Well, weve all done
embarrassing things
in our youth.
Nigel Farage was,
predictably, perplexed
when one of his top
aides turned up for work
having had his eyebrows
threaded. Will Nige take
inspiration and sport a
more shaped look
himself in his new life
after Ukip? Alas not. He
warned the amboyant
staffer in no uncertain
terms, I am not for it!
THIS
IS
STYLE
PAOL A KUDAC KI
A NEW CHAPTER IN
GQS STORY IS COMING.
COUNTDOWN TO AN EXPERIENCE
CURATED WITH AN EDITORS EYE. THE BEST
OF WHATS NOWAND NEXTIN FASHION
POWERED BY STYLE.COM
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OVERFINCH.COM
THE
FASHION
WEEK
Four days of presentations, shows and parties from

Samuel L Jacksons karaoke night to Tommy Hilgers
soire made this summers LCM go with a bang, but
then there was plenty of cause for celebration. Over
the past nine seasons LCM has established the capital
as the centre of the mens style universe. Take the
American brand Coach: where is the only place it
shows menswear? You guessed it, here in London,
in the company of Barbour, Belstaff, Bobby Abley
and thats just the Bs. Heres how it all went down...
Gutter
creditXxxxxxxxx
hereplease Gutter name here
Photograph
LONDON
COLLECTIONS
MEN: SEASON 9
Andrew Weitz, Oliver Cheshire,

Robert Konjic and David Gandy
The Coach show
Photographs Kensington Leverne; James Mason; Ashley Verse; Richard Young
The Oliver Spencer show
George Lamb
Dermot OLeary
The Christopher Raeburn show
Becky Tong
Johannes Huebl, David Furnish,

Paul Sculfor and Robert Konjic
Nick Grimshaw
and Jack Guinness
Tinie Tempah
35 BEAK STREET, LONDON, W1F 9DP

GHBASS-EU.COM
Sophie Ball and

Richard Biedul
Clara Paget
The Dunhill presentation
Sai Bennett and

Callum Turner
Photographs Kensington Leverne; Mike Marshland; James Mason; Ashley Verse
The Agi & Sam show
The Nasir Mazhar show
Toby Huntington-Whiteley
The Lou Dalton show
Nicole Scherzinger
Suzy Menkes and Paul Smith
Samuel L Jackson
Jahmne Douglas
Roberto Pardo
The Jermyn Street show
84
Roxie Nafousi
Russell Tovey
Jim Chapman, Oliver Cheshire, Robert Konjic, Johannes Huebl, Eric Underwood, Tommy Hilger,
Andres Velencoso, Paul Schulfor, David Gandy, Toby Huntington-Whiteley and Dougie Poynter
Henry Holland
David Furnish
Lucky Blue Smith
Oliver Cheshire and Hu Bing
The MCM X Christopher Raeburn show
Photographs Darren Gerrish; Kensington Leverne; James Mason; Ashley Verse; Richard Young; Getty Images
The Agi & Sam show
Jean-Claude Mpassy
The Burberry party
Christopher Bailey
The Alex Mullins show
Ellie Bamber

The Ximon Lee show
Haley Joel Osment
Photographs Kensington Leverne; Mike Marshland; James Mason; Jonathan Daniel Pryce; Ashley Verse
Hu Bing
Kylie Minogue, Samuel L Jackson,

Nicole Scherzinger and Soa Davis
Mercedes-Benz
The Turnbull & Asser show
Richard Roundtree
Suki Waterhouse
The MCM X Christopher

Raeburn show
The Richard James

presentation
The Craig Green show
The Astrid Andersen show

Paul Schulfor
Grant Pearce
The Barbour presentation
Caroline Rush

Anthony Mackie
The Thomas Pink presentation
The Pretty Green presentation
The Pretty Green presentation
Photographs Kensington Leverne; James Mason; Ashley Verse
The Harrys Of London presentation
The Rory Parnell-Mooney

presentation for Fashion East
The JW Anderson show
David Gandy
Jordan Barrett, Kate Moss, Nikolai

von Bismarck and Nick Grimshaw
The Chester Barrie show
Eva Herzigov
The House Of Holland

presentation
The MCM X Christopher Raeburn show
The Topman show
The Wales Bonner show
The Tiger Of Sweden show
The Belstaff presentation
Lou Dalton
and
Rioria
debit optae
Brix
Smith
Start
que
debit
molore
The Tiger Of Sweden party
Darren Kennedy
Photographs Kensington Leverne; James Mason; Ashley Verse
The Christopher Raeburn show
Kit And Ace X GQ Lunch
Daisy Lowe
The Craig Green show
The Neil Barrett X Harvey

Nichols presentation
Winnie Harlow
The Matthew Miller show
Skye Harrison, Andrea Mestrovic

and Charlie Strodl
Jim Chapman
YONNY HERNANDE Z
C AP T URED BY SE AN CUS TER
A$AP Rocky
The E Tautz show
Soo-Jung Kim and

Frances Corner
The Katie Eary show
The Joyrich X
Novelist presentation
The ASOS party
The Bobby Abley show
Photographs Kensington Leverne; Mike Marshland;

James Mason; Ashley Verse; Getty Images
Patrick Grant
The Cottweiler show
The Oliver Spencer show
The Casely Hayford show
Christopher Raeburn
and Lloyd Almond
Model Ombra and

Evelyn Tsekoura
The LCM show space
The Sibling show
Johannes Huebl
MCM X Christopher Raeburn
The Maison Mihara

Yasuhiro show
Camilla Kerslake
The Lou Dalton X

Jaeger presentation
The Hardy Amies show
Q0724 GARMENT DYED DOWN 26GR X SQM-N

DOWN JACKET/SHIRT IN AN ULTRA LIGHT NYLON WEIGHING ONLY 26 GRAMS PER SQUARE METRE.
THE GARMENT IS FILLED WITH THE FINEST DOWN SPECIALLY TREATED TO RESIST THE STRESS
OF THE GARMENT DYEING PROCESS. THE DIRECT INJECTION OF FEATHERS AND ITS LIGHTWEIGHT
CONSTRUCTION OF THE FEATHERED POCKETS ENHANCES ITS OVERALL LIGHTNESS AND COMFORT.
GARMENT DYED WITH SPECIFIC RECIPES WITH THE ADDITION OF A SPECIAL ANTI-DROP AGENT.
CHEST POCKET WITH SIDE OPENING CLOSED BY ZIP ON A NYLON STRIP. SNAP FASTENING.
455J5 SI HOUSE CHECK BY DORMEUIL / NYLON METAL WITH PRIMALOFT INSULATION TECHNOLOGY
STONE ISLAND, IN COLLABORATION WITH DORMEUIL, LAUNCHES THE STONE ISLAND HOUSE CHECK,
ITS OWN IDENTIFYING DESIGN IN A TEXTILE. DORMEUIL HAS BEEN, SINCE 1842, ONE OF THE
WORLDS FINEST MANUFACTURES OF WOOL FABRICS; ALL MADE IN HUDDERSFIELD, UNITED KINGDOM.
THE WOOL NYLON FABRIC, MADE WITH A DOUBLE WEAVE, USED ON THE REVERSE SIDE, CREATES A
DESIGN WHICH INTEGRATES THE STAR MOTIF OF THE COMPASS IN THE CHECK PATTERN. HOODED
JACKET. NYLON METAL DETAILS. PERFORMING PRIMALOFT PADDING. ZIP FASTENING.
Puglia, Italy
Inspired by Puglia, we blend design, functions, materialsand colours to create harmonious living.
Pasquale Natuzzi
Free Interior Design service available in our stores.
Find the nearest one at natuzzi.com
LAST MAN STANDING

SLUG
You only get

five shots at
true love
Whether we are looking for it, ghting to save it or pining for what weve lost,
a mans life is measured by his search for love. And time is always running out...
hen I was a boy and I knew
nothing about women, life
or love, I read a 1,000 page
novel about men who were
experts in all of these things.
From Here To Eternity by James Jones can lay
claim to being the greatest book ever written
about men at arms. But From Here To Eternity
although it begins with barrack-room bullying
and ends with Japans attack on Pearl Harbor
is ultimately not a book about war. Its great
theme is love and, more specically, how many
times a man might know love before his time
is done real love, the kind that you want to
build your life on, love that turns you inside
out, love that you recognise the moment you
see it. James Jones already knew what it would
take me a lifetime to learn. Love will not keep
happening forever.
We do not get endless chances to get love
right. Opportunities are limited. Time runs
out. As Sergeant Warden (the Burt Lancaster
character in the lm of the book) drives away
from his married lover for the very last time, he
counts the number of times that he has truly
loved a woman and how many more times love
might nd him again.
Five real ones. Five that counted. Out of
how many years? Out of sixteen years. Maybe
if he was lucky, there would be time enough
left for two more, three more perhaps, before
After that first time,

falling in love is
always a triumph of
hope over experience
can hope for endless shots at love. It doesnt

work like that.
I recently found myself sitting next to a
woman of the world. The subject had turned
to how many times the human heart can love
really, truly love, a love that is somewhere
beyond infatuation and sexual obsession, a
love when you place the happiness of another
above your own.
Four or ve? I suggested.
She sipped her wine.
That sounds about right, she said, checking
her messages.
We are animals looking for a mate. Its not
complicated. We preen, we display our genitals,

we buy another round of drinks. For her book
Anatomy Of Love: A Natural History Of Adultery,
Monogamy And Divorce, American anthropologist Helen Fisher researched love in all its ages
from that initial blood-pumping eye contact to
the messy, tearful end of love in dozens of cultures. Fisher found endless echoes of our search
for love in the animal kingdom.
A wild female chimpanzee in estrus will
stroll up to a male, tip her buttocks towards
her nose, and pull him to his feet to copulate.
When she has nished, she copulates with
almost every other male in the community.
I am sure we have all been on dates like that.
But Fisher says that the dream for feather
Illustration Sam Kerr
he got too old... He had that much to look

forward to. Maybe. And he had that much
to look back on. For sure. Three more to look
forward to, if he was very lucky.
When all of life was still waiting for me, this
revelation hit me like a hammer, and yet even
then I recognised the ring of shining truth.
There are a nite number of times that a man
can fall in love.
How many times? It is single gures, thats
for certain. No matter how many sexual partners you notch up, the women you genuinely
love will not make it to double gures, unless
you are deluding yourself and them. In From
Here To Eternity, Sergeant Warden, who is in
his early thirties, is ve down with three to go.
Eight real loves in a mans lifetime. To me this
seems on the optimistic side. But then optimism is what all this stuff is built on. After
that very rst time, falling in love is always
a triumph of hope over experience, optimism
over cynicism, when your head says forget it
but your hearts still smoking. But none of us
LAST MAN STANDING

and fur, for man and beast is The One. And
the problems start when loves dream turns out
to be just another mirage.
We search for true love, nd him or her and
settle in, Fisher writes. Then when the spell
begins to fade, the mind begins to wander.
The seven-year itch is, in biological terms, a
four-year itch, reports Fisher. We form what
the anthropologists called pair-bonds, we
propagate the species and then we get hot
for somebody at the ofce. Here is the great
mystery of love there are seven billion people
on the planet and your true love just happens
to be working at a nearby desk.
Because we nd love where we can get it.
efore I ever undid my first bra

strap, I heard my father playing
It Was A Very Good Year, Frank
Sinatras grand opus of a mans
sexual history.
It was like having my fortune told. This is
how it will be, insisted Sinatra. There will be
the girls from the neighbourhood. Then there
will be the women you meet in the big city.
And then nally there will be the women who
already have a life and money and status, who
love left behind. And so it proved.
It Was A Very Good Year is devoted to
three stages of a mans life - at 17 years old, at
21 and at 35. First comes the torrents of spring
the soft summer nights with small town girls,
the nights when you have sex under the sky,
not because you are a young heart running
free but because are still living at home with
your parents and have nowhere else to go.
Then comes the bright lights, big city. When
I was 21 it was a very good year for city girls,
Sinatra sings, and there has never been a more
accurate description of what it means to be a
young male with no wedding ring living in a
city of ten million people, having sex in rented
ats and girls who live up the stairs. And then
in the nal chapter of mans sexual history,
there are the women who are married, and
usually not to you.
It Was A Very Good Year is a beautiful
song, full of memory and melancholy and
regret for times that will never come again.
But it is emphatically not a love song. Unlike
Sergeant Warden in From Here To Eternity, who
is taking stock of the true loves he has known,
the narrator in It Was A Very Good Year is
logging the sexual encounters of a lifetime.
But where else would a man nd the women
that he could love?
Only a small percentage of our sexual
encounters can ever blossom into love. My

guess would be, oh, ten per cent. But every
sexual partner is auditioning for the love of a
lifetime. With hindsight, some of these auditions can seem as comical, farcical or tragic as
the rst round of a Simon Cowell talent show.
But you inevitably have to wade through a lot
of no-hopers for the great prize at the end of
the romantic rainbow.
It is only possible for a man to love a handful
of times two handfuls if he is lucky, or if he
lowers the love bar which means that with
the majority of our sexual partners love never
comes into it. But among all the dalliances and
disasters, the unhappy affairs and the onenight stands, among this sorry mess of hurt
feelings and spent passion, you will nd the
best reason to be alive.
And when love ends, nothing will matter
more than nding it again.
The lucky man is the

one whose big love
is not his first love
but the last
ou will do anything for love.
The biggest cynic will turn his
life inside out for love. The man
who has seen it all will inict enormous pain on those he shares his
life with, and put his heart through a mincer,
and make himself miserable all for love. No,
not even for love. For just the promise of love,
for the vague hint that he might get the chance
to go round one more time. And hope that this
time it lasts. So many sh in the sea and all of
them so slippery.
Our judgement is clouded by love. But life is
horribly tame without it. Our lives are dened
by love or by the lack of love. And even if
we suspect that it always ends in tears, still
we keep on believing, because we can do
nothing else. And whatever our measure of
success the money in the bank, the car on
the drive, the glittering prizes casually placed
on the bookcase we know that it is all worthless if we do not have someone to love who
loves us in return. So what if it wears off? So
what if she runs off with your best friend?
So what if she does it all again with someone
who has more money than you and has her
happy-ever-after in a better part of town? The

heart is a muscle and it will carry you towards
love until the day it stops beating.
Love is so hard to nd, to watch die, to let
go yet it comes into our lives so easily. We
are all romantic suckers. Always, love is based
upon a hunch, an instinct. The curve of a face,
the shape of a leg, the way her hair swings
when she laughs. Thats the thing about love.
It always seems like a good idea at the time.
Love can build into something more trust,
affection, shared memories built over years,
especially after the great life project of having
children together and staying together long
enough to watch them grow. But most times,
love runs out on you or you run out on love, a
eeting moment that promised forever.
There is always the love of a lifetime. The
lucky man is the one whose big love is not his
rst love but the last. But dont count on it.
The love of a lifetime is real, it exists, there is
one love that will tower above all the rest but
the bitter truth is that it can come at any time.
Yet it cannot be too soon. It will not come
when you can get an erection looking at a
shapely pair of table legs. In our extreme youth
we are at our least discerning and ready to
fall in love with anyone. When you get young
love wrong then the ramications divorce,
children, a lack of trust, the fear of getting
it wrong again can echo through your lifetime. First love is real love but there is more
and much better to come. But then again the
big love cant arrive too late when you have
to worry if her children are going to get along
with your children, when you can feel your
lifetime piling up, when there is far more
behind you than ahead of you. The romance
industry from online dating sites to love
songs all promise that love can always come
again. But its not true. A man can have so
much luggage that he misses the love train.
In From Here To Eternity, Wardens great love
comes in his early thirties young enough to
throw his heart and soul at the feet of one
woman yet old enough to know that time is
always running out.
But he suspected, somehow, none of them
would ever measure up to this one, that had
come in his early thirties. He suspected; he was
afraid; that this one was going to have been
the top of the hill.
That sounds right, although I wouldnt rule
out a ten-year margin of error. But that is how
you tell the love of a lifetime from the rest. You
know it the moment you leave it behind.
TIGEROFSWEDEN.COM
F L A G S H I P S T O R E , 2 1 0 P I C C A D I L LY,
LONDON W1J 9HL
WELLMAN.CO.UK
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*UKs No1 mens supplement brand. Nielsen GB ScanTrack Total Coverage Unit Sales 52 w/e 26 March 2016
Live life well
Ive been taking Wellman since

my twenties to support my
health and hectic lifestyle.
David Gandy
Made in Britain
WHAT I WEAR
Model, musician and
DJ Louis Simonon,
son of The Clashs
dapper bassist Paul,
pays tribute to
hispunk lineage
P H OTO G R A P H BY
SIMON WEBB
Hat
Arnold Hatters in New York was my
dads favourite spot, but now its closed.
Ive always liked the Thirties mobster look
my style icon is Al Capone and the
store had been open since 1926.
Jewellery
WISH LIST
Turntable
I prefer the SL-1200 and I wont settle for
anything other than Technics. My style and
the music I listen to are always interlinked.
625. At Amazon. amazon.co.uk
The rings are heirlooms. As for the bracelets,

they were both gifts from my family. The only
piece I bought is the necklace. Im very proud
of my Irish heritage, and so I bought the
clirseach [Celtic harp] to represent it.
T-shirt
I grew up with rocksteady, ska and
skinhead reggae, and the polo is
synonymous with those looks. I used to
wear Fred Perry. This is a John Smedley, so
Ive upgraded! 70. johnsmedley.com
WISH LIST
Fragrance
Id never been that
bothered about
fragrance but a
female friend with a
keen sense of smell
sorted me out with
Limette 37. It was
for the best! By Le
Labo, 123. At Lucky
Scent. luckyscent.com
WISH LIST
Story Eleanor Halls Photographs Nicholas Kay; Jody Todd

Grooming Alice Howlett using Chantecaille and Bumble And Bumble
Trainers
I bought three pairs of black Nike
Air Max when they rst dropped.
Ive been through all mine and am
struggling to nd another pair.
100. At Ofce. ofce.co.uk
WISH LIST
Jacket
I wear a Harrington
almost every day, but
one of much lower quality
than this Baracuta this
is the original!
525. baracuta.com
Jeans
Levis 501s are a perfect shape for me. I tend
to sway towards simple, clean looks such as
jeans and an all-black outt. 75. levi.com
WISH LIST
Drum machine
The Roland TR-909 Rhythm Composer is my
favourite. I have samples but its not the real
thing. I could play with it for hours. 2,650.
At Vintage Synth Explorer. vintagesynth.com
Shoes
I really like a classic
pair of Churchs.
Theyre chunkier than
a more contemporary
shoe. 265.
church-footwear.com
E D I T E D BY
ildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo

Zegna, is talking fabric.
Putting real silk in a car is
a huge challenge. We wanted
to create a cocoon-like feeling
within the car while allowing the driver
to experience all the comforts that
a Maserati is known for. Maseratis boss,
the straight-talking German Harald Wester,
is even more explicit. If you like this type
of precious material, you dont only want
to wear it. Its even more appealing to get
into the car and drive it.
Silk in a car: its a very Maserati thing
to do. And it really works. Woven
at Zegnas Trivero mills, the limited-run
Maserati Quattroporte uses 12 metres
of specially emboldened silk, four times
the amount used in a two-piece suit,
a highly tactile and visual enlivener of
the seats, door inlays and the head-lining.
These are the bits of interior real estate
that usually receive very little love.
The Zegna option is also available on
Maseratis new SUV, the Levante. Purists,
if they havent all been beaten into
submission by commercial realpolitik,
would point to Maserati as the most
fashionable and aristocratic of Italian car
brands, the epitome of period Como chic
more understated than Enzo Ferraris
slightly arriviste rival, and creator of
arguably the greatest grand prix car ever
in the shape of the Fifties 250F. Surely this
is the last company that should be wading
into the 4x4 market? But those same
naysayers should also know that Maserati
has irted with scal disaster repeatedly
during its 102-year existence, and the only
way to stay truly relevant and protable
is to give the people what they want.
And they want one of these. This, the
company insists, is the Maserati of SUVs,
a claim that could mean any number of
things depending on how you feel about
this most quixotic of Italian brands. Having
spent some proper time in the Ghibli sports
saloon, I can conrm that character goes a
long way towards atoning for its dynamic
Its as good
as every
other Range
Rover, which
is to say very
good indeed
Divine wind:
The Levantes grille and
headlights are typical of
its adherence to Maseratis
sport aesthetic
PAUL HENDERSON
CARS
The tailor-made SUV

Maseratis latest marriage of silk and steel is as theatrical as you
would imagine, but the Levante also brings some unexpected utility
to Italys most individual and charismatic marque
STORY BY
Jason Barlow
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Alex Howe
The Levante is a daring

reinvention of the
carmakers current
design language
FROM GQ! INTERACTIVE EDITIONS

Available to download from the App Store and Google Play
CARS
failings, and that Maserati makes
cars you cant help looking over your
shoulder at when youve just parked
up. Which is a more polite way of
saying that the Ghibli doesnt quite
full its promise.
The Levante does, though.
Maseratis design team is full of
well-dressed young tyros overseen by
the now semi-retired styling maestro
Lorenzo Ramaciotti, and the Levante
is a daring reinvention of the current
design language. The grille and
headlights are extraordinarily
expressive, the glass area manages
to preserve Maseratis inherent
sportiness and the upswept curve
over the rear wheels evolves the cues
used with mixed results on the Ghibli.
Its a big car in excess of ve metres
long but manages to camouage its
bulk with more charisma than the
rather lumpen Audi Q7 or amorphous
Porsche Cayenne. Warning: its
colour-sensitive, and Maseratis more
than most cars benet from the
appropriate context. White in Miami
works, less so in Maccleseld.
Actually, think of the whole car as
an evolved Ghibli and youre about
there. It uses the same platform,
but feels a lot more polished. Its
aluminium suspension uses longer
arms to enable the extra-wheel travel
you need on a car with off-road
aspirations. It rides on nicely
calibrated height-adjustable air
springs and features chassis
enhancements such as electronic
dampers, torque vectoring and
a limited-slip rear differential. Most of
the power is sent to the rear axle most
A perfect pairing: Maserati has

partnered with Ermenegildo Zegna
to create a luxury silk interior
Despite being an
entirely new
Maserati model, the
Levante follows the
marques tradition
of naming its cars
after winds. This
onecomes from
theViento de
Levante, which
blows through the
Strait Of Gibraltar.
ENGINE
271bhp 3.0-litre V6
turbo diesel
PERFORMANCE
143mph top speed,
0-62mph in 6.9
seconds
PRICE
From 54,335
CONTACT
maserati.co.uk
of the time, in time-honoured sports

car fashion, until the cars systems
detect otherwise. Or youve actually
ventured off-road, though God knows
why anyone would ever do that.
Low-revving, smelly diesel is
another concept that should be
anathema to Maserati, but its the
power source that most SUVs use, so
the Levante arrives in the UK armed
only with a 3.0-litre turbo diesel.
Actually, its pretty good torque
enough to hustle 2.1 tonnes of Italian
metal down the road with imperious
ease, without sounding like a rattly,
old freight train shunting up a
Milanese railway siding. (Dont worry:
a Ferrari-developed, twin-turbo V6
petrol unit is waiting in the wings.)
The Levante needs 20-inch wheels
to ll out its enormous wheel arches
properly, but these dont punish the
ride quality too badly. Nor does it loll
or roll around as much as youd
expect given its increased centre-ofgravity. Maserati has stuck with

hydraulic power steering (rather than
the increasingly fashionable fully
electric setup), so its way more
communicative than you might
expect. In fact, in the quest to deliver
the Maserati of SUVs, Maserati may
just have served up the most
Maserati Maserati of the current
line-up, at least until the Aleri sports
car arrives next year.
Especially if you tick the Zegna box
and apply the same sartorial rules
when it comes to conguring the
Levantes handsome interior as you
would at your tailors. The appealingly
louche undercurrent that the best
Maseratis possess gets a new lease of
life in the Levante, and what Italians
refer to as sprezzatura gives it an edge
over some of its more uptight rivals.
Only this time it has the ability to go
with the big personality.
FORD MUSTANG
Size matters:
The smaller engine
allows the EcoBoost
to turn corners
more smoothly
Every few years, a new Ford Mustang model arrives.

And every few years, toes curl as the same image of
Steve McQueen is circulated and the word original
isexhausted of its frail profundity. But this year, Ford
has done something a bit different. Its brought the
Mustang to Britain and offered us a radically
downsized engine option alongside the big 5.0-litre
V8. And in doing so, created the best of the breed yet.
The little 2.3-litre EcoBoost engine has its doubters
it has 313bhp compared with 412bhp, gets to 62mph
in 5.8 seconds rather than 4.8 seconds and hits 145mph
not 155mph. But its strength is a skill that the cars
never really had: cornering.
The littlest engine is 65kg lighter, and that weight
reduction is over the front wheels, so when you hit
acorner faster than you meant to, the front end goes
more or less where you want it to. In that respect, the
V8 is a tting tribute to the original. But if you want
alow-calorie, high-bre homage to the Mustang, buy
the EcoBoost. Matt Jones From 29,590. ford.co.uk
L A
R E C H E R C H E
D E
L U V R E
BILL PRINCE &

PAUL HENDERSON
E D I T E D BY
The RESTAURANT
The BAR
The HOTEL
The CLUB
The PUB
The RECIPE
The ROUNDUP
The BOTTLE
The BOOK
THE STEAK
The grill of it all

A young chef is winning praise and prestige at Bernardis in
Marylebone, where the T-bone steak is a cut above the competition
BERNARDIS has a neighbourhood Italian vibe about it. And when that
neighbourhood is the stylish and sleek Marylebone Village, you know that vibe is
going to be uptown trendy rather than tacky trattoria. It stands to reason, then, that
instead of there being an old-school pasta master in the kitchen, they would have a
young, talented, double-Roux Scholarship nalist running the show. Her name is Sabrina Gidda,
her cooking is already picking up awards, and this recipe (see over) illustrates why. PH
TH E F I LLET
OThis is the tenderest
cut, so cooking it
requires extra care.
If its thinner than the
sirloin, cut it off and
fry it separately.
THE LEMON
Photograph Andrew Urwin
OChargrilling the
lemon for around ten
minutes on the grill,
will pick up meat
juices and also add
a sweet avour.
OIt is always a good

idea to leave the fat
on but remember to
score it. The rendered
oil can be used to
baste the steak.
THE SIRLOIN
Class in a glass: ATokyo

Bullet andOlive Oil Old
Fashioned (below) at
Sager + Wilde
THE RECIPE
Ultimate Bistecca
Fiorentina served
with salsa verde,
charred asparagus
and lemon
For the steak
O750g T-bone steak
(dry-aged if
possible) at least
one-inch thick
O50ml rapeseed oil
OMaldon salt
OFresh black pepper
O2 sprigs of
rosemary
O1 unwaxed lemon
O1 bunch of spring
onions
O1 bunch of
asparagus
Method
OChop the salsa verde ingredients. Place in a
bowl. Add lemon juice and zest, drizzle with

balsamic vinegar thenseason.
ODrizzle the oil over the steak and season. Put
it on the grill at 45 degrees to the bars and

dont mess with it. You want nice markings,
so after 4 minutes rotate 90 degrees and
leave for 4 minutes. After 4 minutes has
passed, turn the steak over and repeat. When
you have nice crosshatch bar marks, turn the
steak so the fat gets colour on the grill too.
OWhen the steak is cooked, allow it to rest
somewhere warm for 15 minutes. Add a little

nely chopped rosemary and salt. Meanwhile,
cut the lemon in half and chargrill it esh side
down. Allow it to cook for 10 minutes or so
on a lower heat, taking on some smokiness
and caramelisation. Chargrill the spring
onions and asparagus with the remaining
oilbefore setting aside with your steak.
OTo serve, follow the T of the bone and
remove the sirloin and llet steaks. Serve the

chargrilled veg and lemon alongside with the
salsa verde. You can add any seasonal sides,
but aim to use the grill as much as possible
all those smoky chargrilled avour notes
will really complement the beef.
OBernardis, 62 Seymour Street, London W1.
020 3826 7940. bernardis.co.uk
THE BAR
Sager + Wilde
For a splash of alfresco
sophistication in Londons
Bethnal Green, look no further
than this cocktail destination
YOU cant help but think that the
staff at Sager + Wilde subscribe to
novelist James Thurbers saying
One Martini is all right. Two are
too many. And three are not enough. Swap
Martinis for all drinks great and small, and
this would explain their eagerness for
customers to pour cocktail after cocktail
down their throats with gleeful
indulgence. Not that anyones
complaining: the drinks, concocted
by Marcis Dzelzainis previously of
Dandelyan and 69 Colebrooke Row
are incredibly moreish, both in
terms of taste and aesthetics.
On Sager + Wildes new alfresco
terrace and courtyard bar, greedy
eyes covet their neighbours gorgeous
cocktails, each looking so intriguing
youll want to try them all. After a few
dont miss the Olive Oil Old Fashioned
youll need a good haul from the food
menu. A hearty aged Galician beef sirloin
and some chicken liver, pink radicchio and
grapes? Go on then. Sager + Wilde has
a seriously good formula going. Eleanor Halls
OArch 250, Paradise Row, London E2.
020 7613 0478. sagerandwilde.com
Ne
wl
e
an
ads
d p aves (fro
m above): Fiddlehe
ig t
lm
a
C o l a i l s ; t h e te
B
n
r r a ce ; a L e m o
lin s;
tles
a r tich
okes , ferns and net
Photographs Addie Chinn; Charlie McKay; Jody Todd; Andrew Urwin
Ingredients (serves 2)
For the salsa verde
O2 anchovy llets inoil
O bunch of parsley
O bunch of basil
O bunch of tarragon
O3 tbsp capers
O50ml extra-virgin
olive oil
OMaldon salt
OFresh black pepper
O1 shallot
O1 lemon, juiced
and zested
ODrizzle of aged
balsamic vinegar
TASTE
THE ROUNDUP
Out of office: Three London work/eat spaces
THE BOTTLE
Rosa del Rosa

Sperino 2015
THE grape and area
might call to mind the
serious, thoroughbred
wines of Barolo and Barbaresco,
but this Piedmontese Nebbiolo
from Propriet Sperino is a
delicate summer delight. Its
not short on pedigree either.
Paolo di Marchi of famed Tuscan
producer (which makes the
acclaimed Super-Tuscan Cepparello
as well as a consistently superb
Chianti Classico) inherited this
small estate and has brought in his
jovial and energetic son Luca
to take charge. Together, they
concentrate on preserving lesser
known local varieties such as
Erbaluce di Caluso, as well as
nding the purest expression of
Nebbiolo, some 60 miles to the
north of Barolo.
Balanced by Vespolina (an
indigenous grape variety, not the
local two-wheeler of choice), this
is a savoury, fresh wine with the
minerality youd expect from
the northern Italian mountains,
elegant strawberry fruit and a
hint of silky tannin to remind
you that youre still in Nebbiolo
country. Amy Matthews
O14.50. At Vinoteca.
shop.vinoteca.co.uk
Providores & Tapa Room
Charlottes W5
Leman Street Tavern
109 Marylebone High Street W1.

theprovidores.co.uk
Dickens Yard, Longeld Avenue

W5. charlottes.co.uk
31 Leman Street E1.

lemanstreettavern.co.uk
The setup: Theres a dining room

upstairs, famous for its Kiwi wine list,
but Providores ground-oor Tapa
Room open from 9am with no
minimum spend, free WiFi and
excellent people-watching
opportunities has grown into
ahubfor Marylebone creatives.
Eat this: Dare to resist a Crosstown
doughnut (3.50). There are also lots
of delicious small plates, such as
sardines on roast-tomato bruschetta
(9). In other words: brain food.
Drink this: The Arabica beans are
roasted by South Londons Volcano
Coffee Works, or boost your
superfood score/hipster credentials
with a spirulina smoothie (5.50).
The setup: Transformed from derelict

Victorian stables, this smart all-day
venue presents itself as Ealings third
place (ie, neither home nor office).
Infact, it feels like a members club,
with WiFi, USB sockets and no
obligation to actually buy anything.
Eat this: The food, available in three
sharing sizes, is ambitious, but hit and
miss. The truffle and artichoke risotto
(from 6) bursts with umami joy,
though, and will power you through
the afternoon.
Drink this: All 38 wines are served
bythe glass and there are 22
different gins but those wanting to
hold downa job will love the
cold-brew coffee (3.50).
The setup: Opened in March, this

newCity bar brings a versatile mix
ofbuzzy work space (outsized
sofas,free Wi-Fi and power points
aplenty) and hearty British pub food
to Whitechapel.
Eat this: Theres a substantial and
imaginative snack menu to keep you
and your laptop company, with dishes
such as truffled royal camembert and
soldiers (7), or rabbit, mustard and
wild garlic pie (12.50) if youve
worked up a real appetite.
Drink this: There are 23 bottled beers,
including the local Hoxton Stout and
Shoreditch Blonde (both 5.50), plus
a range of coffees and Clipper teas.
THE PUB
The Three Oaks
Jennifer Bradly
Beets working:
The homegrown
salad at The
Three Oaks
With meat t for royalty, local ales

and ambience to spare, this elegant
hostelry is a true triple threat
THE almost comically good roast
potatoes should be reason enough
for you to take a leisurely Sunday
drive to The Three Oaks in Gerrards
Cross, Buckinghamshire, just 25 minutes west of
London. But if you need more persuading, then
know this: its Sunday lunches, featuring meat
from the Queens butcher Aubrey Allen, are
a modest 16.50 winning a Michelin Bib
Gourmand (the value-for-money award) and
a loyal fanbase. After all, while many restaurants
boast of seasonal ingredients and local
produce, head chef Mikey Seferynski genuinely
knows his artichokes from his elderowers.
The venue is beautiful elegant, modern and
expensively nished. Indeed, it describes itself
as a country eating house, Buckinghamshire
code for fancy pub. Behind the bar until
mid-September, look out for Blonde, a
refreshingly light summer ale produced by
Rebellion Beer Co, based around the corner
in Marlow. The wine list, too, is supplied by

independent wine merchant Corney & Barrow
and features unsung old-school gems such as
Delamotte champagne. So, if you manage to
catch the last rays of summer, then take a chilled
glass of Blonde (and those roast potatoes)
outside to enjoy them in the awlessly
manicured sun-trap gardens. JB
OAustenwood Lane, Gerrards Cross,
Buckinghamshire SL9 8NL. 01753 899 016.
thethreeoaksgx.co.uk
THE RESTAURANT
Benedicts
Norfolk
The acclaimed restaurateur behind East Anglias new
culinary hot spot dishes on kitchen gadgets, Londons
best eatery and the food that gets him in the mood
Rich pickings:
Barbecue quail at
Benedicts; (below)
Caesar salad
Where
RICHARD Bainbridges rst proper

job was at Morston Hall, the
Michelin-starred boutique hotel in
Norfolk, where he started at the age
of 16. Over the years he worked his
way up, culminating in seven years as
head chef whereupon he was offered
a directorship. It was a fantastic
opportunity, but Bainbridge had that
classic chefs dream he wanted to open
his own place.
Last year saw the opening of Benedicts
in Norwich and, somewhat inevitably,
its received rave reviews. But it hasnt
been easy. Working long days, living and
breathing his restaurant, Bainbridge is
clearly exhilarated by the challenge, if
not the risk. His immaculately presented,
locally sourced menu, featuring dishes such
as Norfolk spring lamb with broad beans
and Cromer crab ravioli with a sauce vierge
and shellsh bisque, are winning him a
loyal following. And his prole, thanks
to appearances on Great British Menu, is
rising steadily too.
All he needs now is a short interview in GQ
and he should be set for culinary stardom...
has been eating this month...
What gadget should every kitchen

have? A Thermomix a food cooker/
processor that can do everything. 925,
thermomix.vorwerk.co.uk
What gadget should we throw out? An
electric carving knife. My mum still has
one and theyre truly horrendous.
If you only have one knife A Wsthof
boning knife (from 44. wuesthof.com)
with a exible silver point because you can bone
or llet with it.
If you could only use one herb. Dill. You can use
it with sh and meat dishes and even dessert. Its
beautiful.
If it was healthy and had no side effects, what
would you drink or eat every day? Beer. And
icecream.
What dish is the star of the barbecue? Celeriac
on a barbecue is stunning. It blows peoples minds
and many say its better than a steak. I put it on
cold and slowly roast it for about an hour. Then
just slice into it.
Food as an aphrodisiac myth or is there a
magic ingredient? Figs. If I bite into a juicy, ripe
g it gets me randy.
What is the one ingredient you cant live
without? Salted butter.
Whats the best music to listen to in the kitchen?
Fifties rocknroll.
Which cookbook should every kitchen have?
Well, the cookbook that blew my mind and made
me want to break into the industry was White
Heat by Marco Pierre White. I still use the lemon
tart recipe.
Favourite restaurant besides your own? If Im

inLondon, I would have to say The Ledbury
(theledbury.com). It has got such a great balance
of amazing food in a relaxed environment.
And your favourite foodie destination? Iceland. I
really like the way they cure their meat and cook
underground. Cass Farrar
TALLI JOE
SUVLAKI
SMOKING GOAT
Indian small plates with big

avours plus cocktails with
an Asian twist.
standout dish
A modern take on Athenian

food comes to Soho, along with
its all-Greek wine list.
standout dish
This Soho dive bar, serving

sticky, spicy Thai barbecue, is
denitely worth the queue.
standout dish
Raghogarhi sea bass, baked with

rice and wrapped in a banana leaf
Chicken thigh suvlaki, cooked on

a robata-style grill and marinated
in Florina peppers and tarragon
Barbecue aged-beef short rib

served with massaman
and pickles
21 Bateman Street, London W1.

020 7287 6638. suvlaki.co.uk
7 Denmark Street, London

WC2. smokinggoatsoho.com
152-154 Shaftesbury Avenue,

London WC2. 020 7836 5400.
tallijoe.com
Photograph Katja Bainbridge
O9 St Benedicts St, Norwich NR2 4PE.

01603926080. restaurantbenedicts.com
TASTE
Masterplan (from top):
Oxtail and ox cheek
faggots; pistachio
souffl; pheasant with
walnuts; prune an
Brixton Jamm
Dress up or down? Blend in with

thelocal hipsters and musos with a
baggy tee, ripped jeans and all-white
Stan Smiths.
For the best summer gigs,

look no further than the
newly refurbished Holy
Grail of south Londons
cultural heart
Whats the billing? Lengthy. Theres

reggae throughout the summer courtesy
of Channel One Sound System, as well as
weekly performances from grime and hiphop artists, plus DJ sets for house, techno
and disco-funk lovers. Look out for their
garage and jungle party.
THE CLUB
THIS restored 18th-century inn

is hallowed as the site of
Adeles rst gig and has since
hosted acts from Bloc Party to
Congo Natty via Skepta. Now it has been
stripped back and spruced up just in time
for summer, with a list of killer events...
Whats changed? The live room has been
expanded to host an extra 100 people,
the stage is bigger and a thumping new
MLA compact sound system has been
installed the very same used on the
Pyramid Stage at Glastonbury.
Turn up at 8pm for drinks and street

food (duck rolls from The Rolling Duck
and jerk chicken wraps from Mamas
Jerk) on the large outdoor terrace before
the music gets going after 10pm.
Whats my order? Beers on the terrace;
G&Ts in the club. Fancy cocktails? Wrong
postcode. EH
O261 Brixton Road, London SW9.
0207274 5537. Tickets from 6.
brixtonjamm.org
THE BOOK
Photographs Laura Edwards; Mayer Hawthorne
Memories
Of Gascony
by Pierre
Koffmann
LONG before
Pierre Koffmann
was declared a
culinary genius, he
was a small boy in a small French
village where he would often stay
with his grandparents a couple
whose rustic food philosophy
shaped the man who would go
on to earn three Michelin stars,
nurture a dozen more and endure
for 50 years as one of Europes
most inuential cooks.
Now, to celebrate Koffmanns
golden anniversary in the
business, his timeless Memories
Of Gascony, a season-by-season
collection of recipes looking back
on his childhood, has been
rebound and reissued.
From his famous stuffed pigs
trotter to pistachio souf, there
is an emphasis on the spoils of
harvest and hunt. It can be
treasured for its writerly charms as
much as its kitchen advice, while
Koffmanns anecdotes, crafted
with the same love, balance and
sincerity as his food, will leave
you with something that youll
never forget either. Holly Bruce
OMemories Of Gascony by
Pierre Koffmann (Mitchell
Beazley, 20) is out now.
Hipster haven: The club

is the heart of Brixtons live
music scene; (inset) barbecue
chicken served at the bar
THE HOTEL
10 Castle Street
Dorsets rst private members club is the perfect getaway
for escaping metropolitans, boasting ne art, ne dining
and stunning views of Cranbourne Estate
IF you prefer your country weekends to start with the crunch of Goodyear on gravel,
youll feel immediately at home at 10 Castle Street, previously Cranborne Lodge, an
18th-century Palladian-style house-turned-Dorsets rst private members club.
Its the work of local publicans Alex and Gretchen Boon who put the King John in
nearby Tollard Royal on the hunting and shooting map, and have recruited its chef,
Simon Trepess, to cook here and comes complete with all the touchstones of the
modern metropolitans getaway. So contemporary art abounds (including Hamish
Mackie sculptures in the ornamental gardens), theres a
well-stocked bar powered by a 40-strong back shelf of
ginsand a decent cigar collection, and the nine rooms,
while missing some of the prerequisites of travel-worn
guests such as bottle-aged cocktails and a smartphone
hook-up, do boast handsome bathrooms (GQs featured a
standalone shower as well as the obligatory claw-foot tub)
and wonderfully relaxing views of the Cranborne Estate.
There are currently three tiers of membership (from
550), but passing members can have the run of the
place, as well as a room for the night, from 235. BP
O10 Castle St, Cranborne, Dorset, BH21 5PZ. 01725 551 133.
10castlestreet.com
TASTE
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
Jericho, Oxford
The Old Parsonage
Hotels burger; (below)
pizza at The Rickety Press
Train:
London Paddington to
Oxford from 25 return
Time:
Around 50 minutes
each way
Watermelon
paloma; (below)
chicken special with
potatoes at The
Varsity Club
Drive:
One hour forty minutes
from London (62 miles)
Spindly spires, tinkling church bells, a pattering of earnest feet and the soft
and steady splash of a punters pole in the water youre picturing a perfect
summers day in Oxford. Just a ve-minute walk north of the city centre youll
nd Jericho, the citys quirkiest neighbourhood, which is full of toy-town
houses, tweedy academics and cocktail lovers.
(1) Start your stay at the

OldParsonage Hotel
Fry-up at The
Jericho Caf
O X F O
RD
ry Roa
d
Raouls
cocktail bar
B anbu
Ribeye steak
and pasta
with salmon and
pancetta at Gees
(1-3 Banbury Road. 01865

310210. oldparsonage-hotel.
co.uk). It may feel a little dated,
like most of Oxfords hotels, but
thats part of the charm. The rst
things you notice pretty white
bikes with wicker baskets, a
crackling log re and a heavy
wooden door with a knocker
are deliciously old-fashioned.
Having navigated the hotels
winding corridors and random
staircases, enjoy a pot of tea
in the library stuffed full of
intriguing paperbacks.
If, come lunchtime, your
heart aches for a proper
burger in a decent British pub,
(2) The Rickety Press (67
Cranham Street. 01865 424581.
thericketypress.com) offers
hearty fuel for a stroll in Port
Meadow up the road. Its all
fresh, local and affordable
and bottomless Bloody Marys
for a tenner will put a spring in
your (uneven) step.
For something lighter,
(3)Gees (61 Banbury Road.
01865 553540. gees-restaurant.
co.uk) is Jerichos prettiest
restaurant its ower-lled
conservatory is perfect for idle
lunches and romantic dinners.
Proving you dont need to be a
seafood restaurant to serve great
sh, Gees llet of hake with pink
r potatoes, mussels and monks
beard is a no-brainer.
Mid-afternoon cravings?
(4)The Grand Caf (84 High
Street. 01865 204463.
thegrandcafe.co.uk) was,
according to Samuel Pepys
Englands rst coffee house in
1650. Now coffee has been
swapped for high tea and
cocktails in this tiny mirrorwalled caf with a beautiful old

bar. Grand is no understatement.
For drinks with a view,
(5)The Varsity Clubs heated
roof terrace (9 High Street.
01865 248777. tvcoxford.co.uk)
offers a picture-perfect
panorama across Oxfords
sky-pricking spires and library
domes, particularly at sunset. Its
cocktails are pretty good too
try the Flower: lavender vodka,
pear pure, vanilla syrup and
prosecco. Across the road, Quod
(92 High Street. 01865 202505.
quod.co.uk) is a lively spot for
Earl Grey Martinis and a pizzette
once the sun goes down.
Theres a fair amount of hustle
and bustle in Jericho on its tiny
main street three cocktail bars
are vying for the top spot. The
Duke Of Cambridge (5-6 Little
Clarendon Street. 01865 558173.
dukebar.com) and Angels (Little
Clarendon Street. 01865 554224.
angelsbar.co.uk) put up a good
ght, but (6) Raouls (32 Walton
Street. 01865 553732. raoulsbar.
com) takes the prize with its
intimate setting, ace bartenders
and killer Pia Coladas.
Often, it seems like the
whole neighbourhood,
plus all of Oxfords
middle-aged
intellectuals,
congregate at
(7)The Jericho
Caf (112
Walton Street.
01865 310840.
thejerichocafe.co.uk)
for a weekend fry-up,
papers and paperbacks
in hand. If you manage to
nab a table, its a proper
send-off before checkout. EH
University
of Oxford
rd
Oxfo
Statio
WWW.THOMASSABO.COM
CONTACT: +44 (0) 20 77 20 97 25

UK@THOMASSABO.COM
E D I T E D BY
AARON CALLOW
Double
exposure
Mount an artistic revolution
in your living room with
a photograph that makes
waves in more ways than one
PHOTOGRAPH BY
Matthew Beedle
WEST of the Iron Curtain, the striptease ballpoint pen was

nothing more than a frivolous end-of-the-pier frippery, but
to artist Ivan Kiuranov and other socialist-era Bulgarians
it became a rare and subversive object of material culture,
smuggled in past the censors. By 1998 the single-party
state by then consigned to history Kiuranov was working
with provocative art movement XXL and sought to lay bare
this alternative reading in his photographic piece PenUp. Now, fellow Bulgarian and art patron Spas Roussev
is lending yet another dimension to the image with his
Soundwall technology, which turns art into slim, wall-hung
speakers in this case playing music chosen by the artist.
From trivial titillation, via an icon of popular revolt, to a
striking work of art that speaks for itself, if theres a better
way to make a space sing weve yet to hear it. AC
soundwall.com
Rug by Natuzzi, from 840.

natuzzi.co.uk
2 Sidetable by Natuzzi, from

700.natuzzi.co.uk
3 Radio by Ruark Audio, 200.
ruarkaudio.com
4 Lampshade, 49. Tripod, 39.
Bothby Vita Copenhagen.
vitacopenhagen.com
5 Lampshade, 55. Tripod, 57.
Bothby Vita Copenhagen.
vitacopenhagen.com
6 Pen-Up by Ivan Kiuranov, 1,249.
AtClippings. clippings.com
7 Sofa, from 2,300. Cushions,
from130 each. Both by Natuzzi.
natuzzi.co.uk
8 Radiator by Bisque, from 334.
bisque.co.uk
9 Coffee table by Natuzzi,
from 600.natuzzi.co.uk
6
HOW WE LIVE
PORTRAIT BY
Robert Spangle
GQs menswear master divulges the secrets of la dolce

vita, from silk scarves and streetstyle to home comforts
This month: ROBERT JOHNSTON, Fashion Director, GQ

STIMULATION
To read: The Life Of The
Robin by David Lack
To read again: La Comdie Humaine
by Honor de Balzac
To listen to: The Bride by Bat For Lashes
To drink: Islay malt from Bruichladdich (above);
red Burgundy from Maison Dieu, Domaine de
Bellene; Martini with Bombay Sapphire and a twist
To eat: Dinner at Gymkhana, London W1; lunch at
Landgate Bistro, Rye; Es Cal, Formentera, Spain
Bar: Fanny Nelsons, Hackney
Magazines: Private Eye; Economist; Lucky Peach
(below); National Geographic
Museum: V&A
Location: Calton Hill, Edinburgh
Secret hideout: Rye, East Sussex
Romantic place: Marloes Sands,
Pembrokeshire (above)
GEAR
Phone: HTC One
Computer: MacBook Pro
App: iPlayer Radio
Headphones: MH40 by
Master & Dynamic
Home audio: SuperConnec
by Revo (above)
Gadgets: Apple TV (below);
Brilliant Power Bank by EasyAcc
Kitchen gadget: Duo Ice-cream
maker by Cuisinart
Watch: Bi-metal
Globemaster by
Omega (right)
Suit: Canali
Blazer: Pal Zileri (pictured)
T-shirt: Sunspel (above)
Denim: Nudie
Swim shorts: Orlebar Brown (right)
Shoes: OKeeffe; Gucci
Trainers: Onitsuka Tiger (above)
Scarf: Wolff Et Descourtis (pictured)
Wallet: Cellerini
Glasses: Statesman Three
byDita(above)
Skincare: Dermalogica (left)
Fragrance: Vtiver by
Christian Dior (right)
On the nightstand:
The Romanovs by Simon
SebagMonteore (right)
Artist: Maggie Hambling
Albums: Views by
Drake; Chambersby
Chilly Gonzalez(above);
YoungAmericansby DavidBowie
Instagram: @1000yardstyle (right)
Podcast: The Mysterious Secret
OfUncle Berties Botanarium
TV: University Challenge;
30Rock;Absolutely Fabulous
Films: All About Eve;
ApocalypseNow; Amy
Looking forward to: The
Magnicent Seven
Photograph Jody Todd
CULTURE
STYLE
AND GROOMING
THE NEW MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER PHEV

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drive on a single charge and on longer journeys the petrol engine helps out to achieve a combined
range of up to 541 miles2. The battery can be charged in just a few hours via a domestic plug socket3,
a low-cost home Charge Point4 or one of over 8,500 Charge Points found across the UK. With ultralow CO2 emissions the Outlander PHEV is exempt from Road Tax and the London Congestion Charge5
as well as being eligible for drastically reduced Benet in Kind taxation6. Theres even 2,500 off the
list price through the Government Plug-in Car Grant7 and, for a limited time only, were matching this
with a 2,500 deposit contribution8. We call this Intelligent Motion.
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1. Ofcial EU MPG test gure shown as a guide for comparative purposes and is based on the vehicle being charged from mains electricity. This may not reect real driving results. 2. Up to 32 mile EV range achieved with full battery charge. 541 miles achieved with combined
full battery and petrol tank. Actual range will vary depending on driving style and road conditions.
3. Domestic plug charge: 5 hours, 16 Amp home charge point: 3.5 hours, 80% rapid charge: 30mins. 4. Government subsidised charge points are available from a number of suppliers for a small fee - ask your dealer for more information. 5. Congestion Charge application required,
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E D I T E D BY
BILL PRINCE
Spruced-up classics and a future

favourite in the capital; South
Americas luxury sleeper train;
plus, the ultimate Aman expeditions
Guilty pleasure:
A deluxe double
at the Courthouse
Hotel Shoreditch
UNTIL 1996, a night

in Londons Old Street
Courthouse was generally the
prerogative of the accused, but
since shuttering for the obligatory
stretch as a location for gritty
urban dramas (Spooks, Luther,
Rooms with a hue: The
you get the picture) its now
Berkeleys Collins Room
reopened as the Courthouse
andBlue Bar (right)
Hotel Shoreditch. Whether its
the rst or last of those words
that gets you drooling depends on whether you fancy pacing the same corridors as Ron
and Reggie Kray, or hanging out in the fast-moving social scene of LONDONs East End.
Rest assured that, whichever it is, the 86 guest rooms and 42 suites (including two rooftop
one-bedroom residences) are a world away from the quirky setting of the bar, with its
ve refurbished cells. Rooms from 189. shoreditch.courthouse-hotel.com
The cornerstone of Knightsbridges ve-star hotel portfolio since 1972, the Berkeley
recently unveiled its new faade, the rst phase of an exterior/interior renovation
that includes a new Robert Angell-designed restaurant-bar, the Collins Room, named after the
designer of its iconic Blue Bar, which has also undergone an extensive refurbishment. New suites are
available this autumn, together with a eet of south-facing rooms beneting from their own private
terraces, also designed by Richard Rogers practice. Rooms from 325 plus VAT. the-berkeley.co.uk
The footprint of Piccadillys The Athenaeum might not have changed, but refurbishment has
transformed the dowdy lobby into an atrium, and added a terrace from which to observe the
goings-on in Green Park. Passers-by can benet from Michelin-starred chefs Chris and Jeff Galvins
involvement in the rebranded restaurant and bar. Park view rooms from 260. athenaeumhotel.com
Next year sees the launch of SOUTH AMERICAs rst luxury sleeper train services,
with the Belmond Andean Explorer offering previously unimaginable comfort on
one- and two-night journeys through the
Peruvian Highlands from Cusco to Lake
Titicaca and Arequipa. Prices start at 315
for the one-night Spirit Of The Andes
expedition, including, meals, drinks and
scheduled excursions. belmond.com
Range nder: The Belmond

Andean Explorers dining car
(above) and (right) amazing views
of the South American hinterland
Spice world
(below): Amans
two-masted sailing
ship, Amandira
For the ultimate Aman x, sign up for

two all-inclusive journeys: an 18-day
expedition across China, Bhutan, India
and Sri Lanka by private jet that runs
from 9-26 October, and costs 43,185,
or a ten-day voyage aboard the two-masted
sailing ship Amandira exploring the spice
islands, casting off on 21 October and
costing 6,190 per two-person cabin. BP
aman.com
EPIC SAIL
Ahead of next years Americas Cup, GQs
ableseaman learns the ropes in Bermuda
STORY BY
Mark Russell
WHOMP [wait] splosh!

Capsizing a boat is a curiously
slow-motion event. The sails puff up,
the boom swings across, your bottom
slides to the wrong side of the vessel,
the hull starts to rise, and you know
exactly whats coming but cant do
anything about it. So you wait for
the whomp, thats the sail bellyopping on to the water; and then
the splosh, which is you falling in.
But if youre going to capsize
anywhere in the world and if youre
learning to sail, youre denitely going
to keel over youd be wise to do so
in Bermuda. Warm, tranquil waters,
ethereal pink sands and glorious
natural bays make a man-overboard
situation a rather pleasurable
experience. Something I can vouch
for, having faced this semi-regularly
on day one of the RYA (Royal
Yachting Association) Level 1 Start
Sailing course at the Royal Bermuda
Yacht Club, in the capital, Hamilton.
Spread over two-and-a-half days, the
UK-recognised qualication was an
excellent introduction to everything
from rigging a boat to basic sailing
techniques. To newcomers, the sport
can seem complex with an air of
exclusivity, but after a few days
of coaching it was surprising how
quickly I was sailing along gently-ish
in a 12ft RS Feva dinghy, tacking

(turning) and gybing (turning the
other way) through the water.
Despite all the whomping and
sploshing, it was a thrill to complete
the course (thanks largely to the
RBYCs patient sailing director Nathan
Bailey) in the waters where the best
yachtsmen will go bow to bow in the
2017 Louis Vuitton Americas Cup.
Currently working its way through
a world series, the event culminates
in Bermuda next year, when the
champions the American billionaire
Larry Ellison-backed Oracle will
race the challengers in the waters
of Bermudas Great Sound.
A British Overseas Territory,
Bermuda was made for sailing, with
its storied maritime history and
insurance industry wealth putting it
at yachtings top table. Hamilton will
be at the heart of the Americas Cup,
and undoubtedly the place to stay is
BERMUDA
HA M ILTO N
B O G OTA
First class:
Its plain sailing
for GQ at the
Royal Bermuda
Yacht Club
the Hamilton Princess, a richly

appointed hotel with an innity pool
where you can put your feet up and
see right out across the harbour. Its
three restaurants offer menus with
neat mixtures of modern American,
Caribbean-infused and traditional
Bermudian dishes, such as sh
chowder bites and grilled onion.
As expected, most restaurants serve
locally sourced seafood, but few beat
the magnicent Mickeys Bar & Bistro
(elbowbeachbermuda.com), on the
sand at Elbow Beach, or Breezes
(breezesbermuda.com), overlooking
the Cambridge Resort & Spa. Its the
perfect setting for gazing out across
the Atlantic and sharing some newly
earned sailing stories.
The days spent on the water are
enough to inspire a Brits deep-rooted
maritime urge and so demand a trip to
St Georges, the buzzy former capital
thats a living, breathing Unesco
World Heritage site. Take an evocative
Haunted History tour and top off with
dinner at The Tempest Bistro (001 441
297 0861), named after Shakespeares
shipwreck-inspired play. It also does a
great Rum Swizzle, the national drink,
invented up the road at the Swizzle
Inn (swizzleinn.com), whose current
efforts are also worth a stop-off.
While here, its only right to observe
that other seafaring tradition of
partying like a sailor on shore leave.
So, put a night out at the Royal Naval
Dockyard on the agenda and check
out Calico Jacks oating bar
(complete with plank to walk),
Bone Fish Bar And Grill and nearby
Woodys Bar, a locals haunt that
has a distinctly Caribbean feel and
a ramshackle party vibe. And maybe
keep the next day clear of sailing.
Learn To Sail Bermuda courses, from
110pp. gotobermuda.co.uk; rbyc.bm.
Seven nights at the Hamilton Princess,
from 1,899 for two people. fairmont.
com/hamilton-bermuda. BA ies to
Hamilton from 446 return. ba.com.
Prestige Holidays. 01425 480400.
prestigeholidays.co.uk
The Americas Cup presented

by Louis Vuitton takes place
in Bermuda on 17-18 and
24-27 June 2017 (provisional).
americascup.com
Photographs Royal Bermuda Yacht Club; Barry Johnson for Bermuda Tourism Authority
TRAVEL
The ALASTAIR
CAMPBELL interview
When I rst asked Alastair Campbell to become GQs arch interrogator two
years ago, its fair to say one or two readers were somewhat displeased. How
dare I give a platform to such a controversial, partisan gure? To me, the
emotion he arouses was part of his appeal. People love him or hate him,
but all seem to sit up and take notice of what he does and says. Also, what
became clear from his very rst interviews with Nigel Farage and Alex
Salmond was that he didnt see his monthly slot here as a platform for
himself, but for the interviewee. Since then, he has pitted his wits against
some of our most inuential personalities, the likes of Sadiq Khan, Nicola
Sturgeon, Nick Clegg and Chuka Umunna in politics, Steve Coogan and
KevinSpacey in culture, Usain Bolt, Mo Farah, Jos Mourinho, Paul Gascoigne
and Sebastian Coe in sport. His having operated at the top level in politics
and government, and his passion for sport, seemed to encourage greater
openness from his subjects. As Bolt said last month: I enjoyed that interview.
Most people just ask the same stuff and its boring. That was good fun. I
enjoyed it.
But of course, although also a spectator, Alastair remains a player in our
politics and public life. So, with the party conference season approaching,
Ihad what Alastair initially dismissed as a mad idea interview yourself.
Butfrankly, in these extraordinary political times, with Brexit despatching
one prime minister and delivering another, Labours leadership in turmoil,
theSNP pushing for a second independence referendum, Nigel Farage
resigning and the Chilcot Report coming down hard on Tony Blair, I could
think of nobody better for him to interview at this time. So here it is: as ever,
direct, simple questions and direct, revealing answers. On the Iraq War and
Chilcot; on Brexit and Labours wilderness years; and on his darkest days of
depression: Alastair Campbell faces his toughest opponent yet himself.
Dylan Jones, Editor
PHOTOGRAPH BY
David Bailey
AC: So, whats this?

AC: Me interviewing myself. It wasnt
my f***ing idea.
AC: Whose was it?
AC: Some bright spark at GQ. I said it
sounded like journalistic masturbation,
but they were keen.
AC: You mean you couldnt land
the big guns?
AC: Yep. Tried them all. Wimps.
Osborne was close, but in the end
he said, We learned something from
you lot only do the things where
you can control the message. They
just think I hate all Tories.
AC: Do you hate all Tories?
AC: No. Alan Clark was a good friend;
others are too. Also, on the EU
referendum, for once I was on the
same side as Cameron and Osborne.
Tony Blair
hadto make
adecision
most of us
never have to.
There were no
easy options
ALASTAIR CAMPBELL
Speaking truth to
power: Alastair
Campbell was
Tony Blairs comms
boss from 1997 to
2003 and has been
GQs interviewerin-chief since 2014
ALASTAIR CAMPBELL
AC: That went well.
AC: Tell me about it. I still cant believe we lost. Won on
the arguments, lost on the emotions, and now we have to

live with the bloody consequences.
AC: Will you put Boris Johnson and Michael Gove in
Winners: And How They Succeed now? Quite a win.
AC: It sure was, and they were the difference, I think.
But what a mess. Won on a pack of lies, then they run
and hide, then Gove knifes Johnson just like he did
Cameron, and having banged on about how the people,
not unelected elites, should choose our leaders, we get
a new prime minister not chosen by the electorate. Farce.
So no, BoJo and Govey will go in the follow up, Losers:
And How They Fail.
AC:
Will Brexit
denitely happen?
Photographs Ben Cawthra/LNP; Alan Davidson/The Picture Library Ltd
AC: I hope not. We are already seeing
that Project Fear was, if anything,

understated. It is a disaster on so many
levels, a moment of real lasting decline.
AC: Did you feel sorry for Johnson?
AC: No, not at all. He went for Brexit
for opportunistic not principled
reasons and got his just deserts.
AC: What was the brief from GQ
about interviewing yourself?
AC: Ask the questions you most get
asked. And answer them frankly.
AC: So what is the question you
get asked most?
AC: What are you up to these days?
Its irritating, because its really just a
way of saying, Didnt you used to be
important?
AC: So what do you say?
AC: Depends on my mood. Sometimes
I say, If I told you Id have to kill
you, or I might say, Im devising a
new app, but my autopilot answer
is [bored voice] A mix of writing,
speaking, consultancy, both alone
and with the communications rm
Portland, media, charity and
campaigns. I do a fair bit in sport too.
AC: Ah, Portland. Didnt they
orchestrate the Corbyn coup?
AC: I have seen some lame conspiracy
theories in my time, but that was one
of the lamest. Some guy I hadnt
heard of heckles Corbyn and suddenly
there is a sinister Blairite plot.
AC: But you did call for Corbyn
to resign.
AC: Yes. I dont think he can win an
election. He is great at preaching to
his natural supporters. But he isnt
reaching new people.
AC: Would you help him if he
asked you?
Right to remain:
Alastair Campbell
joins the push to
stay in the EU in
Londons Hyde
Park, 19 June 2016;
(above) with
Tony Blair at
the peak of New
Labour power, 21
January 2003
AC: I cant see it happening. Also,
I really think Labour politics needs

a new generation of strategist. I left
Downing Street 13 years ago but
have gone back for every campaign
since. At the last one, especially, I felt
sure there must be younger people
who would be better at what the
politicians were asking me to do.
AC: What do you enjoy most and
least about all these things you do?
AC: I really like the work for Time
To Change, trying to change the way
people think about mental illness, but
I couldnt do it full time. Ive written
eleven books now, and have six more
in the pipeline: four volumes of diaries;
a childrens book about depression;
and a novel. The speaking market is
very lucrative someone called it
white collar crime but it can be
soul-destroying. I enjoy it when they
want something specic addressing
a particular issue that makes me think,
or analysing their strengths and
weaknesses in a kind of strategy boot
camp. The Winners book opened up
a new raft of approaches from rms
wanting me to apply lessons from the
book to them, a lot of them in sport.
I also have a golden rule: two unpaid
speeches for every paid one.
AC: So you feel guilty about
making money.
AC: Not guilty as such, but I often
enjoy the stuff I do for nothing more
than the stuff I do for money.
AC: Are you not somewhat
obsessed by sport?
AC: Yes. I enjoy it but also we can
learn so much from it. Ive studied
great sports teams and I honestly
think if New Labour had been better
at teamship we would still be there.
AC: Even after Iraq?
AC: We won an election after the Iraq
war. I do not think we lost power
because of policy or Iraq or because
the Tories came along with better
ideas for the country. We lost because
we failed on teamship. Not just Tony
Blair and Gordon Brown but all sorts
of levels. And then when it came to
2015, after Ed Miliband resigned,
there simply wasnt the depth or
breadth of candidates. Partly, that
was because so many from the New
Labour team had bailed out. That is
a failure of teamship and culture.
AC: Did Labour pick the wrong
Miliband in 2010?
AC: I get asked that pretty much every
day, which suggests the public thinks
we did, but the party elected Ed not

David. Fact. And when Ed resigned,
the party elected Jeremy Corbyn. Fact.
AC: Could David come back?
AC: It would be good if he did, but
would he get elected in the new [sic]
Labour Party under JC? Dunno.
AC: Is todays Labour a rejection
of New Labour?
AC: Partly, yes. Without a doubt. But
it is sad as well as stupid that we have
turned our most successful ever leader
and election-winning strategies into
negatives. Its not just about Iraq. So
much of this is media driven. Yes, I
meet people who say they hate Tony,
but I meet plenty of others who say
they hate the way the media vilify
him and that the country could do
with someone like him back in charge.
But Jeremy Corbyn hasnt happened
in a vacuum. We didnt cement the
legacy securely enough, we didnt
develop talent enough, and the
energies taken up by the Blair/Brown
struggles meant we did not have the
debate we needed about the future
direction of the party when we
needed it most, when we were helping
Gordon to take over.
AC: Were you surprised Cameron
got a majority last time?
AC: No. The public struggled to
see Ed as a prime minister. And he
made a strategic error by failing to
rebut the Tories attack on Labour as
having caused the economy to crash
through overspending. The mess we
inherited became the soundtrack for
the parliament. It allowed the Tories to
trash our record and we helped them.
It also gave them an excuse for a lot
of the dreadful things they have done.
It is quite something for them to have
missed pretty much every economic
target, presided over worsening
schools and hospitals, been divided
on Europe, and sparked a crisis in
homelessness and inequality,
yet won an election, lost a PM and

still stayed ahead in the polls.
AC: What are the most asked
questions out on the circuit?
AC: I get more and more about mental
health, which makes me feel the
campaign for openness is working. I
get a lot about Burnley. Taxi drivers
I would say are now 50-50 between
politics and sport. I get asked whether
I am proud that people say Malcolm
Tucker is based on me. (Yes, because
it is funny and my kids love it.) And
why I dont stand for parliament. (Ive
thought about it, but the time has
never been right.)
AC: You didnt mention Iraq.
AC: I do get asked about Iraq a lot,
and I did dozens of interviews
defending Tony when the Chilcot
Report came out. But I nd Iraq gets
raised much more by the media than
by the public. I was talking to Alan
Johnson about this the other day, who
was saying in his new life as an author
he gets very different questions from
the public than from the media.
AC:
Run for office:

Alastair Campbell
with partner
Fiona after
nishing the
London Marathon,
13 April 2003
Were you surprised

at the severity of
the Chilcot Report?
AC: I was a bit. Maybe I was lulled into a false sense
of security because I didnt get a letter of criticism. But

also the letters sent to others, who asked me for advice,
including Tony, suggested Chilcot was not going to be
quite as harsh as he was. But ultimately, experts can
analyse all the documents and the processes, but Tony
Blair had to make a decision the likes of which most of
us never have to, and there were no easy options.
AC: So you dont accept it was a total catastrophe and
that Blairs legacy is trashed for ever?
AC: No and no. Saddam fell. That is a good thing. Iraq is
now a democracy engaged in the ght against terrorism.
But I completely accept the aftermath planning was
woeful. There were things we did not predict. Iraq is not as
we wished it to be and too many lives were lost. But I also
think its unfair so much of the blame falls on Tony. The UK
contributed ve per cent of the military, but it seems to me
he gets most of the blame.
AC: So you feel the Yanks should be held to account?
AC: I think Tony had a more positive inuence on George
W Bush than Chilcot judged him to. But there were others
in there, the real neocons Dick Cheney and Donald
Rumsfeld who should have focused much more on the
aftermath, not just the invasion and fall of Saddam, and we
should have pressed them more. As for Tonys legacy, of
course Iraq is a huge part of it. But so is Ireland, Kosovo,
Sierra Leone, development and debt relief. So is the biggest
schools and hospitals spending programme since the war,
minimum wage, devolution, Bank Of

England independence, gay rights,
smoking ban... I could go on and on.
AC: Is Iraq to blame for Isis?
AC: That is too simplistic. It is like
saying the war in Afghanistan caused
al-Qaida. Jihadist terrorism was a
developing phenomenon and cannot
be ascribed to one event or one
reason. Also, those who think we
should have left Saddam in place
and lets not forget he was a brutal,
brutal dictator should reect on
what might have happened had he
still been there during the Arab
Spring. I worry leaders are learning
the wrong lessons, above all ducking
difcult decisions for fear of the
fallout on them personally. Every
time I see Jeremy Corbyn in front of
his Standing up, not standing by
slogan, I think, We sure as hell arent
standing up for the Syrians being hit
with Assads chemical weapons and
barrel bombs. That was meant to be
a red line for the major powers.
AC: Do you hate the media?
AC: No. I hate parts of the media,
especially the Mail, and I hate
a lot of the media culture. But for
all my battles with them, I am
a big supporter of the BBC.
AC: How hard was the transition
to the life you have now?
AC: Very hard. Its actually what led
to this self-interview. I mentioned to
GQ that I kept bumping into retired
sports stars whod seemed to go
through exactly what I went through
when I left Downing Street.
AC: Namely?
AC: Depression, and a real struggle
to nd meaning and purpose.
AC: How bad was the depression?
AC: Bad. Suicidal at times. I could
barely function, and my partner,
Fiona, was worried for my sanity. Im
in OK shape now, thanks partly to
having nally found the medication
that seems to work for me. Its my
new addiction. Ive been incredibly
lucky in the way Fiona has supported
me and it has helped that I decided,
when the children were old enough
to understand, to be open with them
about my depression.
AC: So what is it that stops you
going back into something so
all-encompassing?
AC: Family and freedom. It was only
when I went through my diaries I
realised what a nightmare I must have
been to live with and how much I was
putting my health and our happiness

at risk. That is another question I get
asked a lot, especially by women:
Is Fiona a saint and why does she
put up with you?
AC: And is she?
AC: She is, pretty much. She didnt
always make it easy for me but
looking back I realise she had our
and the familys interests foremost.
I think if either of us were weaker
characters we would have split up
at times, but I am very, very glad
that we didnt. I still do too much
and can be a nightmare to live with,
especially when I am a bit manic or
in a depression, but I think we have
a good life. And freedom is a
wonderful thing to have.
AC: Have your children inherited
your politics?
AC: More or less. Rory is a total
Blairite, thinks Tony should still
be leader and PM. Calum is more
left wing and rages against inequality
in the world. Grace expresses her
politics through passionate feminism
and the belief that Fionas generation
won equality for women in the
eyes of the law, but that we are
still a million miles away from
genuine equality.
AC: Do you think any of them
will go into politics?
AC: Not as things stand. Rory was
a poker player during and after
university and now works in data,
analytics and player recruitment for
West Ham United. Calum works for
a strategy and comms rm and is
setting up a foundation, All Human,
to support people living on the
streets. Grace is at lm school and
has already made some brilliant lms.
I am really proud of them and nd
my own focus on the future is as
much about them as about anything
I will do.
AC: Is there anything else you
would like to tell a grateful nation?
AC: No. Im at the end of the word
count. I just need to work out how
much expenses to claim for this one.
Ive done it in Hong Kong so Ill
probably put in a return Upper Class
Virgin ight from London.
AC: And what are you doing in
Hong Kong?
AC: If I told you that Id have to
kill you.
Winners: And How They Succeed
(9.99, Penguin Random House)
is out now.
Photograph Alan Davidson/The Picture Library Ltd
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Come here, boy:

The US, blindsided
by the Brexit vote,
has not had to have
a British strategy
for generations
MICHAEL WOLFF
BREAK UP
America is in shock. After decades of ignoring the UK as a separate entity, Washington now
needs to rekindle the special relationship. So what does Brexit the opening shot in the battle
between global elites and fact-free populism mean for the US and its would-be presidents?
TO MAKE UP
STORY BY
Michael Wolff
ILLUSTRATION BY
Andr Carrilho
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MICHAEL WOLFF
he UK has long had a
bilateral, international
identity as EU pillar and
English-language mother
country the root of its
special relationship and
most important ally
status with the US. It is
that latter role that has
arguably most shaped
the UKs modern global view and identity.
And that came undone even before Europe
came undone.
Somewhere following Tony Blairs exit from
Downing Street and Barack Obamas election,
the special relationship a commercial,
cultural, historical and diplomatic bond was
seriously downgraded to silly legacy.
Hence, the Brexit debate was a non-issue
in the US. The New York Times not only
failed to address the sides of the debate
that is, to acknowledge that there were two
but barely covered the event until the nal
days (and when it did happen, its most upto-the-moment response was to get Blair to
write a comment for the paper). The Rupert
Murdoch-owned Wall Street Journal, whose
conservative editorial pages might logically
have been a Brexit supporter, could hardly
be bothered (Murdoch himself, up until the
vote, seemed largely indifferent). Obama,
extending David Cameron a begrudging favour,
took an opportunity to haughtily dismiss
the issue and threaten it would send the
UK to the back of the queue. Europe was
the global entity, he was saying, not Britain.
When I interviewed Donald Trump less than
a month before the vote, he was unfamiliar with the term Brexit. (Huh, he said.)
Hillary Clinton would, I suspect, not have been
much more passionate. The US was subsumed
in its own election, of course. Whats more, to
the extent that there was any awareness, it
was through London eyes: Brexit as an outlier
issue not worth having any other opinion
about than a London one. But most of all, it
was just a matter for Britain, a country that,
in some not-insignicant but quite unnoticed,
historical development, had completely exited
the US imagination.
Well, youre back.
The morning after the referendum, the US
woke up not only to a spectacular dnouement
bodies scattered across the stage of a drama
it did not know was unfolding but also to the
unmistakable fact and sudden new sensation
that the UK mattered. The Beatles in the form
of Brexit had come to America. Quite literally,
nobody had any idea what had happened
the New York Times, wholly blindsided, had to
run a Brexit primer, as much, one suspected,
for its own reporters as its readers other
than that something terribly large and full of
Photograph John Frost Newspapers
foreboding had gone down. Mind-bending.

People, many among them the most incredibly
ditzy airheads of the social media era, who on
Thursday had no awareness at all of Brexit,
by late Friday morning were full of passionate intensity on the subject. And everybody,
truly approaching 100 per cent, was shocked
and appalled among them, almost all of the
people you most enjoy seeing shocked and
appalled. So again, The Beatles: overnight this
new thing had rocked the establishment, violently rocked it, back on its heels.
The question, every day seemingly more
urgent, is: What does it mean? But,
especially given that the answer will surely
be elusive even if there is no answer, just
Paper over the cracks: The American media gave
Brexit little consideration until it happened
Britain is a prima
donna, exerting
national ego at
a wartime level
an unfolding new era the question might
be better phrased as: What is it worth?
Having repositioned and redened itself, and
now having commanded the attention of the
world, not least of all Washington, what is the
value of this new British leverage and mindshare? Having gone, in the blink of an eye,
from a low-value interest of the United States
to the most volatile and combative entity, in
what remains the most signicant region of
US interests, what can Britain, suddenly the
Iran of Europe, get with its new, threatening
bugbear prole?
At the risk of self-parody, it may be worth
looking at this not solely as a global economic
event but as a media event too. Remain
argued, in a fumfering way, that there were

unknowable risks in undoing the structural
details of complex contractual and business
relationships. Leave, always shy on details,
argued something larger. Sovereignty and
democracy, yes. But something also more
theatrical, demonstrative and cathartic. Look
at me. And, of course, f*** you.
What is the meaning of this gesture? Its
Trumpian, obviously. Thats part of the apoplexy striking markets and opinion columns.
Hes everywhere, or its everywhere this
new form of political expression, of speaking
in symbols not policy (of course, in many
ways, an old form too). And that is also its
media appeal: a roiled, ongoing, ever-surprising
narrative constantly resupplying itself with
new outrage and pithy sound bites. Thats
Trump and thats Leave. Forget whether Leave
is ultimately good or bad and see Leave as
holding the worlds attention. Extraordinarily
so. Now, having the worlds attention, whats
to be done with it? How to monetise it? And
what message do you send to the world?
Leave is as much agitprop something
Remain notes with contempt and anger
as it is economic programme. And in agitprop
you have to keep explaining and refining
the gesture.
Let me double down on self-parody and see
this as, in part, a branding exercise.
Not to mince words: the general perception
of the old brand was that the British are
lazy and hate change and are never at the
forefront of anything (except, occasionally,
music and fashion). So this sudden what have
they done? is some remarkable reinvention.
From quiescent stalwarts and practiced bootlickers, the British have become global prima
donnas, exerting national ego at a wartime
level. Leave is pure aggression. Wilful belligerence. Now, nobody is going to clap you on
the back for that. This is bad behaviour of a
very unsporting kind. And yet, thats the point.
The squeaky wheel. The mouse that roared.
Henry VIII.
From the beginning, to general derision by
the media and the professional political class,
Boris Johnson dened Brexit as a negotiating
posture. That was offensive, both to the people
who thought they had already done the negotiation and to the people who thought that
they were operating on settled terms, the US
and President Obama included. Johnson was
like a new, slickster agent, promising, with
hijinks and brinkmanship Brexit is quite a
storming out of the room a new deal for
a long overlooked client. Nobody likes this
style of negotiating, except the suddenly
richer client. (To type, the old, respectable
agents charge the new agent with being a
charlatan, who will leave the client high and
dry when he cant make his quick buck.)
MICHAEL WOLFF
The special relationship hinges on

personality and mutual interests
Its indeed a peculiar assumption that the
status quo is a stronger hand than being a free
agent, and by people who should surely know
better (rather the entire negotiating class). In
a multilateral world, you want fewer variables.
But, given that a new variable suddenly exists,
now it has to be put to advantage. Brexit has,
to date, been cast as a negative for the UK, that
it will lose its place in Europe and as a point
of inuence. Surely, from a US view, thats
nonsense. Having two entities to negotiate
with, playing one against the other, invariably
improves your position that is to say, the US
position. The US position and leverage with
regard to Europe now potentially increases
with its closeness to Britain.
And so, the special relationship becomes
truly quite special again. State, Defense, CIA,
NSA and other under-the-radar ofces of US
government are surely now gaming not merely
the drawbacks of the Britains exit, but the new
possibilities of its free agent in Europe. (Not
to say that the US wont also double-cross the
Brits, but thats life as a free agent.) In this,
for better or worse, the UK becomes the USs
strategic foil against Germany and Brussels.
Indeed, a potential, hidden downside (as well
as potential upside) is not that Britain is sent
to the back of the queue, but rather that it
exchanges its vassal relationship with Europe
for a greater vassal relationship with the US.
In this, the UK becomes not the Iran, but the
Israel of Europe (for better or worse).
Britain too, in its Brexit embrace, becomes,
to the US, the objective correlative for the
inchoate political rage that everybody feels
but nobody has been able to name or really

accept one reason why, against all prior lack
of interest, Brexit suddenly made it so big in
the US. My God, this is real, every liberal
suddenly said. Trump, curiously helping
liberal denial has rather marginalised his
own movement. Trump is an anomaly. He is
a media creation and hence can seem less real
than he might actually be. As much as he might
claim to represent a frightening mood, he more
clearly represents himself. Hillary Clinton
surely feels she can run against Trump on his
own merits, or demerits, and largely avoid
what Trumpism is about. Until now.
ritain, through Brexit, enters

the political psychology of the
US in a way that it has not since
Margaret Thatcher. The Brexit vote
gives particular clarity to what
is reasonably the eras most acute political
reality: the new class structure. It is not rich
and poor, but savvy and unsavvy, insider and
outsider, educated and not educated, old and
young, super cities and shitty cities.
Brexit is a cautionary tale the call to
attention that Trump should be, but isnt
because hes Trump. While Trump confuses
the issue, Brexit provides a rather pure,
demographic portrait of resentment and disappointment. Clinton, as opportunistic as
Johnson or Michael Gove, is surely dwelling
on this now. Its where the political upside is.
It is too where the Clinton political talents lie.
Hillary has, quite against her temperament,
been pulled to the Left. But the real Clinton
country is somewhere else. And thats an

opportunity. In the old politics, the future
promised all for some efciency, freedom,
convenience, wealth. In the new politics, the
future is going to have to come slower and
more judiciously, indeed more sceptically,
balancing greater promises for some, with an
understanding of the reality for all. (I offer
that paragraph to Hillary Clinton as she pivots
to the middle and reaches to form a vast
new constituency of middle-of-the-roaders
repulsed by Trump.)
She is, too, likely rewriting her expert
views. One hopes she is anyway. Its not a
small Brexit lesson. In a world that is talking in
symbols, dont try to talk back with facts (the
data-driven world has devalued them). If its
an emotional argument, you have to uncover
your own emotions.
Looking towards her presidency, Clinton
must now be thinking about her UK strategy.
A US politician has not had to have a UK
strategy since before the EU, which is the point
a benet of being top of mind.
And yet the flipside of opportunity
is blowing it. The special relationship has
always hinged as much on personality as on
mutual interests. Ronald Reagan and Margaret
Thatcher were smitten with each other. Blair
was able to bond with both Bill Clinton and
George W Bush and became an ideal Brit for
American media a singular accomplishment
and cautionary tale. But Gordon Brown and
David Cameron could not get arrested in the
US. It would not seem like Theresa May is a
natural either, but perhaps we will see May
and Trump together smiling on a Scottish golf
course or some Theresa and Hillary magic.
Brexit as a media and branding moment a
Britain full of eccentricities and bluster, whose
value should not be underestimated may
most logically be pursued by Boris as its face.
His fully realised future has always seemed
again like The Beatles as a media gure in the
US. And perhaps as foreign secretary, facing an
aghast State Department and a perplexed White
House, with sideways remarks to a charmed
American press, he will be the salesman for a
resurgent and quixotic British brand.
As I write this, not only does Brexit seem
without purpose or message, but Britain
appears to be going crazy. But crazy too is a
redenition of a nations place in the world,
and its own peculiar leverage. The way forward
for Britain without Europe is surely through
the US. And there is a deal to be done.
MORE
FROM GQ
For these related stories,

visitGQ.co.uk/magazine
The Last Days Of Sumner (Michael Wolff, August 2016)

What Wendi Knows (Michael Wolff, July 2016)
Donald Trump. Really? (Michael Wolff, June 2016)
Photograph Rex
Americas sweetheart:
Amural in Bristol
featuring Donald
Trump and Boris
Johnson, by In
campaigners We Are
Europe, 24 June 2016
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PUT him in this seasons retro-inspired checks and its not

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Of his latest albums title, Wrong Crowd, he explains hes
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Theres so much judgement when youre growing up and
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In my previous job I wore

suits with mainly black
shoesbut in my new role
Iamwearing smart casual, so jeans
and shirt. Black shoes with blue
jeansjust doesnt seem right, so
doyouhave any advice or do
Imakeblack shoes redundant?
Giovanni De Marco, via email
The problem here isnt the colour. Its

the combination of two contradictory
styles. Jeans can look great with black
Red Wing Beckman worker boots, for
example, or even, at a pinch, a pair
ofChelsea boots. I will admit that I
havebeen known to wear a pair of
black Bass Weejuns with jeans. But
trymatching a pair of classic black
brogues with your well-loved Levis and
you will end up looking like an off-duty
policeman. The same is true ofchinos.
Indeed, its a good rule of thumb to
avoid mixing the casual with the very
smart. Put it this way, you wouldnt
wear a pair of Stan Smiths with a navy
three-piece pinstripe suit. Or would
you? So save the black dress shoes for
suits, weddings and funerals. If you
want a smarter option of footwear
forthe casual office stick to loafers
ormonk-straps, and if you insist on
wearing brogues go for abrown
pairand veer on the side ofchunky.
Denim-wise I would suggest sticking to
dark. Perhaps my favourite shoe for an
office jean right now is the Bristol suede
monk straps by OKeeffe. The toe and
heel are lightly waxed togive them that
perfect lived-in feel so they look like
you have loved them for a long time.
T-shirt by Sunspel,
60. sunspel.com.
Jeans by Nudie, 145.
nudiejeans.com.
Blazer by Burberry,
595. burberry.com
STYLE SHRINK
EDITED BY
ROBERT JOHNSTON
I have a very simple question. Were you to be forced at gunpoint to wear one
designers wares for the duration of your days, which would you choose? This
has to be for all sorts of occasions so choose wisely. (For the record, I would
go with Prada.) Drew, via email
I love these ridiculous questions, like the famous one about who would win in a ght
between a bear and a shark or whether it would be better to drown or freeze to death.
And the truth is, like your Desert Island Discs selection, even if you could choose, the
likelihood is that it would change constantly. What experience has taught me is that it
is easier to have a number of go-to brands for favoured items shirts, jeans, whatever
and to buy these in bulk. I am by inclination a maximalist. Recently, for example, I
reduced my everyday wardrobe to the bare minimum. This consists of a white Sunspel
T-shirt, dark blue jacket and a pair of Nudie jeans. The jacket is one of a number I own
from a cotton Burberry single-breasted to a double-breasted number by Pal Zileri.
It may sound boring but it has made life very easy and has resulted in a gratifying
number of compliments. Yet I dont think I could go to the extent of having to limit
myself to one label for the rest of my life even though the thought of a pensioner in
Prada is rather chic.
I am attending a fairly
largework night out in a
coolbar. What do I wear? Ill
not be suited and booted but I dont
want tobe T-shirt-and-jeans casual
either. Isthere a middle ground?
Tone, via email
One of my latest obsessions is the

evolution of the suit, and I have given
atalk to GQ readers at the Burberry
agship store on Londons Regent
Street and even appeared on Radio 4s
consumer show You And Yours to speak
Shoes by
OKeeffe,
350. At
mrporter.com
on the subject. On theradio I managed

to come out with the somewhat mad
quote that men are the new women.
By this I meant that men were no longer
satised to have only a suit option for
work and like women now want a
wider choice of options when it comes
to smart. The reason Isay this is that,
conversely, the suit should no longer be
seen as just a work uniform; it can be
for going out too, paired with a crisp
white T-shirt. For a more casual suit,
look for one in cotton. Stores such as
Reiss sell some suits as separates so
you can also wear the suit jacket as a

blazer, which opens up a whole new
wardrobe option. Twin a navy blazer
with some light-coloured trousers
forgreat value look out for the white
chinos at Uniqlo and again twin with
a white tee. Shoes-wise you can either
go the smarter route and think loafers
or just as easily get away with a cool
pair of trainers (as long as they arent
too grungy).
Blazer by River Island, 110.
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As one of Genevas most

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El Primero Chronomaster Cohiba Edition by Zenith

When you consider the fact that a humidor containing 50 Cohiba 50 Aniversario
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Patek Philippe has

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1
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1. Watch by Junghans, 1,500. At Selfridges. selfridges.com

2. Watch by Nomos Glasshtte, 1,610. nomos-store.com
3. Watch by Skagen, 175. skagen.com
4. Watch by Mondaine, 285. At John Lewis. johnlewis.com
5. Watch by Christopher Ward, 399. christopherward.co.uk
6. Watch by Oris, 990. oris.ch
7. Watch by Rado, 1,720. rado.com
8. Watch by Georg Jensen, 1,790. georgjensen.com
BEST
OF
BRITISH
BY
Luke Leitch
Guts and graft have

taken Lou Dalton
from adolescent
dreams of being a
designer to the top
ofher game. GQs
Contributing Fashion
Editor meets the
hardest working
woman in menswear.
THE LAST TIME I glimpsed Lou Dalton was in a crowd: the seasonal
sardine-ball of street-style snappers and the peacocks that hang
around on The Strand outside the ofcial venue for London Collections
Men. Daltons collection a damned ne one had only moments
ago nished showing. And there she was. Yet, wait: had she come a
cropper? Dalton, normally a deft mover, was making slow progress,
apparently aided by some elaborate, industrial two-legged crutch.
The truth was less dramatic: poor Dalton was lugging the ironing
board out of her own show. So much for glamour. While she is still
sweetly embarrassed about the incident and hints that her partner
of 13 years, Justin Haigh, might just have been rufed by a brisk
breeze of Dalton opprobrium for nipping to the bar post-show she
really shouldnt be. Because it perfectly
illustrates the recipe of hard work and
Lou Dalton is
gumption (with a double-shot of 100widely admired
proof talent) that makes Dalton such
for combining
a particularly desirable dish on the
wearability with
menu of British menswear.
One of the garments on the rail
forensically
Dalton delivered to the lorry in that
applied detail
moment from Coronation Street
andquirk
was a ne-gauge knit produced in
collaboration with John Smedley that
features the up-close topographical Ordnance Survey hieroglyphs
specic to the corner of Hodnet, Shropshire, where she was raised:
her grandmothers farm is positioned lovingly under its left armpit.
When Dalton was 16 and released from an unspectacular academic
career she went on a Youth Training Scheme 35 a week! to
work for Pardie, a clothier in Market Drayton. Here she learnt how
to fold trousers and mastered the intricacies of the action shoulder.
It was all about getting to grips with the paunch, the French bearer,
and which side a man dresses, she says.
After several years of this excellent education, a friend from a
nearby farm, who was heading to Central Saint Martins, encouraged
Dalton to follow a yen to be a fashion designer she rst felt at the

age of 12 after seeing Zandra Rhodes on This Is Your Life. Daltons
route was unromantic. After being turned down by the University Of
Northumbria (she was mortied) Dalton studied locally for an HND
Have no degree, she recalls ruefully before having the last laugh by
being accepted by the Royal College Of Art for an MA.
I never havent worked, says Dalton. I always work. That mantra
took her to Bologna the Monday after her graduation, where she worked
at a design studio whose clients included Iceberg and Stone Island. Later,
back in London, she worked indirectly for Japanese brands United
Arrows and Beams. This job required her to travel the UK, sourcing
manufacturers whose quality and authenticity would satisfy the nicky
demands of the Japanese market. A lot of it was knitwear, she recalls.
In Shetland, she had two life-altering encounters; the rst was with
Haigh (who works for BP), and second was with a sweater that suddenly
cemented the long-dormant Dalton urge to
strike out under her own name.
It was a kids sweater, very old and
beautiful, that I found in Shetland. I thought,
Oh my God, we could recolour this and put
some uoro in and mess around with it. This
led Dalton to produce her rst designs and
launch her label in 2005. She is dedicated
to menswear (Ive always just wanted to
dress blokes) and support, both nancial
and emotional, from Haigh has nurtured the
company into a brand that is widely admired
for combining wearability with forensically
applied detail and quirk.
Today Dalton is in Dalston, home of her
studio (she calls it the sweatshop), and has
just toured me through her most recent collection as well as showing me her current collaborations with John Smedley and Jaeger.
She says that she and Haigh refer to the
company as our moody child it consistently needs to be fed, and her ambition for
it is simple: Id like it to be selling more!
To achieve that she has just completed a
top-to-tail sourcing audit. New factories in
Lithuania and Poland mean she has been
able to reduced her prices but maintain
quality, and buyers, especially in Japan, have
responded positively.
Many designers believe their own hype
and become complacent. Dalton deserves
hype, but to her credit never allows it to
dull her momentum. Both artistic and
pragmatic, her clothes suddenly represent
excellent value as well as being ne items
for progressive dressing.
As we nish our coffee, Dalton says that
she is off to Santorini tomorrow. It is the rst
holiday she and Haigh have taken in years.
This is a designer who started at the bottom,
has her eye on the top and carries her own
ironing board. A holiday is the very least that
Dalton deserves.
loudalton.com
Good for Lou: Looks from

Daltons autumn/winter
2016 collection at LCM
Grooming Chloe Botting using American Crew

Model Michael Gioia at Premier Model Management
The DSquared2
fashion shows
areone of the
highlights of
Milans menswear
week. And no
wonder the
combination of
tongue-in-cheek
fun, great beats
and clothes that
are eminently
wearable without
ever taking
themselves too
seriously all
addup to one
offashions
mostwinning
tours de force.
For their autumn/
winter 2016
collection Dean
and Dan Caten
turned their
attention to the
east a part of
the world they
have, up until
now, rarely visited
albeit a case of
Mandarin meets
denim. Thelabel
is alsobrilliant for
its dramatic take
on formalwear
guaranteed to
brighten up any
red carpet.
Becausewhat
man doesnt go
quietly mad
formetallics?
Jacket, 3,520. Jeans,

325. Shirt, 350. All by
DSquared2. dsquared2.
com. Sunglasses by
Persol, 200. persol.com
Photographs by Lottie Bea Spencer Styling by Carlotta Constant
THE GOLD RUSH

It takes two (above):
Dean and Dan Carter
photographed by Inez
&Vinoodh; (right) the
DSquared2 uniform
designed for Canadas
Rio Olympics team
Theres a proud tradition for a nations fashion icons to be

invited to design their countrys Olympic squad uniforms. If
you take the London 2012 games alone, Ralph Lauren kitted
out the Americans, Giorgio Armani dressed the Italians and
Stella McCartney went for gold with the Brits. So for Rio,
Canada turned to Torontos most terric twins, Dean and
Dan. Give those boys a medal.
dsquared2.com
Small Mount Street in Black Croc | Passport Cover in Black Croc & Red Suede
ASPINALOFLONDON.COM
WESTFIELD
HARRODS
SELFRIDGES
MARYLEBONE HIGH ST
TEL: + 44 (0) 1428 648180
BROOK ST W 1
ST PANCRAS
COVENT GARDEN
CANARY WHARF
BLUEWATER
From left:
Cabin bag, 25,000.
Briefcase, 1,000.
Laptop case, 740.
All at Serapian.
serapian.com
leather goods, wallets and so forth, with his landladies offcuts and
starting selling them, cycling across Milan with his wares. As his
wallets became more sought-after he swapped the bicycle
Shear luxury: Stefano Serapians
for the train and travelled to other afuent cities and
wife, Gina, cuts a six-metre
crocodile skin; (inset) Frank
resort towns. In Montecatini he fell in love with one
Sinatra with Serapian case in 1956
of his customers, a young shop owner called Gina
Flori. By the time she came to join him in Milan, in
the Thirties, he had established himself as a maker
of not just diaries and wallets but bags and suitcases,
and in the year that the war ended the brand Stefano
Serapian was born. The shop next to the factory
became a magnet for the well-heeled and well-dressed
Nick Foulkes recalls how Italys post-war
Milanese bourgeoisie, and soon a Serapian bag was a
hallmark of the northern Italian citys afuent chic.
creativity boom fuelled the ambitions
Word spread. Yul Brynner was spotted at the airport with
of leatherwares most revered old master
Serapian luggage, Humphrey Bogart was a customer too, and
if you were Frank Sinatra, trotting down the steps of an airliner
and into a burst of ashbulbs, a Serapian
suitcase was as much of a style signature
BUOYED by Marshall Plan aid, the years following the end of the
The shop
as a snap-brim.
Second World War were golden for Europe. In France they called
became a
This was the age of progress, and
this period of prosperity les trente glorieuses. In Italy, it was called
magnet for the
Serapian was forever experimenting
il miracolo economico, although a better name would be the one
well-heeled
with new designs, innovative materials
Federico Fellini selected for his 1960 lm, La Dolce Vita.
Milanese
and different ways of treating traditional
While war-weary Britain descended into a drab, post-imperial
bourgeoisie,
materials. One Serapian novelty was
decline of prefab housing and rissoles, Italy could not wait to
ahallmark of
Evolution, which rst appeared in 1965:
blossom. With the end of the war the country exploded with
affluent chic
a grained calfskin treated with four coats
creativity: 1945 was the year that Brioni launched; the year that
of varnish to make it stain-, water- and
Piaggio gave the world the Vespa; and it was the year Stefano
scratch-resistant. It continues to be offered today and is favoured
Serapian set up his eponymous leather goods business with his
for items that see plenty of wear, such as briefcases, computer
wife, Gina, working out of a small atelier on Milans Via Jommelli.
bags and so forth.
Stefano Serapian was a survivor: a powerfully built man who,
The reason that the jet-set liked Serapian was that his business
in addition to becoming a luxury goods baron, was a champion
was primarily bespoke, out of which some classic models grew.
weightlifter in his spare time. An Armenian who had lived through
For instance, the Doctor bag was said to have been devised as a
the genocide and made it to Venice, aged 15, in the Twenties, he then
Serapian response to requests from physicians in Milan in 1969.
moved on to Milan to work for a confectioner and took lodgings with
The bag itself has a bit of the old hinged opening characteristic
a couple of women who stitched shoe uppers. Fascinated, he started
of Gladstone bags, with an added outer ap pocket. It is hard to
learning their trade.
imagine a better looking bit of medical equipment.
Hereafter the story resembles a feel-good Italian movie in the mode
It was not until almost ten years into the current century that
of Il Postino. Serapian found that he had an aptitude for crafting small
Serapian took the decision to
open its own shops, launching
on Via della Spiga in 2009, then
Venice, Rome, Moscow, and
Hong Kong, with a summer
It is fair to say that Brunello Cucinelli has helped change the way
season shop in Porto Cervo
mendress the world over with his vision of everyday relaxed style
layering quilted vests with soft, tailored one-and-a-half-breasted
on the Costa Smeralda. Alas
blazers and streamlined cargo trousers but in the most luxurious
London does not yet have its
fabrics. This after all is the man who admits to playing football in a
own Serapian shop, but while
cashmere sweater. Everything has to be perfect Cucinelli will redo
we are waiting for this slice
his tie ve times before it passes muster in the morning. So take this
scarf. Its as light as a cobweb and as soft as a sigh. It isnt ashy but
of the dolce vita to cross the
when you wear it you will just feel, well, better dressed. RJ
Channel, the brand is available
at Harrods.
Scarf by Brunello Cucinelli, 290. brunellocucinelli.com
serapian.com
Photographs Jody Todd
Serapian has still

got luxury covered
Brunello Cucinelli
T-shirt by Topman, 25.

topman.com
Jacket by Topman, 60.

topman.com
Jeans by Topman, 80.
topman.com
Nasir Mazhar x Topman

Nasir Mazhar is one of the current stars of the London mens fashion scene with his ultra-cool
club kids take on sportswear inspired by the grime and garage scenes. Now, he has produced
a ten-piece capsule collaboration with Topman that will ensure his clothes reach a national
audience. According to Topmans creative director, Gordon Richardson, Nasir has been
someone we have admired for a long time and has developed through both Topman-sponsored
initiatives, MAN and NewGen Men. We have always wanted to work with him but had been
waiting for the right moment. We believe this is the moment and we absolutely love what he
has come up with. I cant wait to see people actually wearing the collection.
NEWS:
From the return of the classic denim jacket to Topmans latest

trendsetting collaboration, stay ahead of the curve with this months style briefing.
moved into shoes all hand-crafted by artisans in Morrovalle in the

heart of the Italian region of Le Marche, long known as the mecca
of the nest footwear in the world. There are two formal families
of shoes in the collection: the T-Sartoria, which comes in three
styles and a range of autumnal browns and creams; and the
T-Legender, which boasts a deep-red lining and painted sole.
The styles come in either a sacchetto construction for
greater comfort or a Blake-Rapid construction for a
more rugged feel.
Boots by Hugo Boss,

350. hugoboss.com
The bracelet has now become a male style

fixture and some of the best come from
German jewellery brand Thomas Sabo. The
Rebel At Heart styles feature beads in semiprecious materials such as obsidian and agate,
while the Sterling Silver Collection in tigers
eye is a real attention grabber. Bracelets by
Thomas Sabo, from 70. thomassabo.com
Photographs Mike Blackett; Jody Todd
Hugo Boss: Boss Made In Italy range has now
Boots by Dior,
760. dior.com
Jumper by Michael Kors,

155. At House Of Fraser.
houseoffraser.co.uk
Jacket by Brutus, 80.

brutus.london
JIM CHAPMAN:
Prepare your wardrobe for the change of

season by investing in timeless pieces.
Back in the Seventies the jeans brand

Brutus was huge, partly thanks to its jingle
Jeans On by David Dundas, released as a
single in 1976. The brand has now relaunched
its iconic Brutus Gold label including the
Denim Trucker Jacket, crafted in the same
factory with the same components that were
used in the original. So if we really are all
going back to that decade at least well be
dressed the part and looking good.
G L A S S
A C T
After a long search for the perfect location,

Oliver Peoples is due to launch its first
European store on Londons Sloane Street
this month. It will feature a number of
exclusive styles but our favourite is the
MP-15: an optical frame with engraved
ligree along the exposed metal eyewire
and bridge. A little bit preppy, a little bit
Cary Grant and 100 per cent stylish. Glasses
by Oliver Peoples, 285. oliverpeoples.com
ITS PROBABLY FAIR to say that most people will be reluctant to wave goodbye to
summer, but whether we like it or not autumn is imminent. Personally, I enjoy this time
of year and think I make a good case for it being the best season we have, specically
when it comes to style. You get the opportunity to play with more than just one layer as
it gets a little cooler, but its not so cold that you have to go for substance over style.
Im quite an impatient human being and I often itch for the change of season a month
or so before its due. Even after a summer jam-packed with cloudless blue skies and short
sleeves I begin to long for replaces and thick knits before the leaves turn brown. This
need for change is one of the lies I tell myself, and my wife when she decides she wants
us to move to LA, to justify why I could never live somewhere perpetually sunny (the real
reason is that Im just far too British to ever leave Britain).
Im usually pretty prepared when the seasons do nally shift, because when I shop I tend
to invest. I think about any purchases I want to make and how theyll contribute to my
collection. My nature is to go for timeless clothing that works not just for this autumn, but
for the next one and many more to come. I know what looks good on me and I dress
accordingly, as opposed to what is currently in vogue. Because Im not overly trend-led
when it comes to how clothes t, each season has its own uniform that I return to year after
year. Obviously it evolves as my taste matures, but for me autumnal style is all about boots,
layers, knits, beautiful outerwear and tactile fabrics to add a touch of luxury to the chill.
When it comes to colour and fabric, though, trends do keep me curious. Although I have
my go-to seasonal looks, its nice to keep them up to date by adding something current.
Im very easily inuenced and if I see an item I like on the catwalk or in a magazine my
knee-jerk reaction is to go online and search for it. For example, during the LCM shows
for AW16 there was a lot of grey. Often it was grey on grey on grey, which you may have
noticed has already begun to trickle into shops as autumn approaches. I fully approve of
this trend and I can nearly guarantee that, while I might not stretch to 50 shades, most of
the pieces I purchase in the coming months will be varying degrees of grey in various
degrees of texture.
Having a solid base for each season means that you neednt panic-buy an entire new
wardrobe every time the weather changes; instead you can browse at your leisure and
pick a few key bits to add to your collection that will be there to welcome you back the
same time next year.
G e ox : The Italian shoe brands new range of

Nebula trainers is set to win over a whole new
range of fans. The Nebula promises to ensure you
dont have to sacrifice style for comfort as the
Geox technology makes the entire shoe breathable
and they look cool too. Shoes by Geox, 110. geox.com
Liquid assets:
Jared Leto wears
Gucci at the Milan
menswear show,
20 June 2016
Gucci Guilty Pour Homme

eaudetoilette by Gucci, 49.
At Debenhams. debenhams.com
OU KNOW, I dont know anything about fashion, claims Jared Leto. Its a line
from the Academy Award-winning actor and musician that weve heard before
were just not sure if we believe it. Still, perhaps its a case of who you know, not
what you know, and Leto is something of a muse to Guccis new creative director,
Alessandro Michele, having repped the brand hard on the red carpet since Michele
took over from Frida Giannini in January 2015. When we meet in Milan, after the menswear
show, hes wearing head-to-toe Gucci, including an embellished print shirt, hand-graftied jeans
and box-fresh white trainers appliqued with pink rhinestone lightning bolts.
In the current premier league of fashion, the position of creative director is becoming as
tenuous as a high-prole football manager, with recent shock departures at Lanvin, Dior, Calvin
Klein, Saint Laurent and Gucci. Incomers face the challenge of redening their predecessors
vision, seemingly overnight. You could start by deleting the brands entire Instagram feed (see
Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent), but its much trickier to instantly align the new direction
of the fashion collection with an existing fragrance portfolio.
Guccis Michele has put the Italian house back on most-wanted lists since his takeover, which
includes presiding over a collection of highly successful fragrances. His rst move? To sign Leto
up for a new campaign for Gucci Guilty, the brands bestselling mens scent.
We can see why. Leto looks a good ten

years younger than his 44 years and he isnt
scared to wear his hair long, bleach it, dye
it pink or paint his nails. Hes unconventional
and ts Micheles rule-breaking, genderblending vision at Gucci. I think men
should do whatever the hell they want to,
says Leto. I love what Andy Warhol said,
Labels are for cans, not for people. But
ultimately Leto insists hes OK with making
some [style] mistakes, so I dont really care.
Its not apathy. I just think we men can be
a bit safe. Hes also a keen rock climber;
there are snaps from Yosemite and Joshua
Tree on his Instagram account. Its a sport
you play with yourself. I enjoy it because
its problem solving, its an adventure, and
its special. It brings me to a place that Ive
never been before.
And he applies the same risk-taking
philosophy to his career. His portrayal of
Rayon, a transgender Aids patient in Dallas
Buyers Club earned him an Oscar for Best
Supporting Actor in 2014. I saw a great
opportunity and it was beautifully written.
I had a feeling that I could contribute something, he says of the role that saw his
return to acting after a four-year hiatus to
critical acclaim.
Hes back on the big screen this month as
our favourite psychopath, the Joker, in
Suicide Squad. How easy is it to disentangle
himself from his work after playing such an
intense role? Sometimes its hard just to let
go because youve committed so hard and
there might be certain things that you did
that were really fun. The Joker has a really
funny sense of humour, but its also brutal.
Theres things that I couldnt say, but
if I was the Joker I just would. Thats whats
intoxicating about him: he just does
whatever he wants. JP
heaven. GQ meets the actor and musician

to talk rock climbing, rule breaking and
being Alessandro Micheles main man.
EDITED BY
JESSICA PUNTER
Down the garden path

Parco Palladiano is a ne fragrance collection
from Bottega Veneta. Inspired by the gardens at
the Palladian villas of the Veneto, this six-piece
collection ofunisex scents is an olfactory tour
ofthe grounds designed inthe 16th century by
Andrea Palladio. There is crisp cypress, pink
pepper and juniper in II and rosemary, sage
andlaurel in V something to suit each time
ofday or mood. 190. At Harrods. harrods.com
Photographs Getty Images; Jody Todd
GROOMING:
Jared Leto and
Gucci are a match made in maverick
The G Preview:September
E D I T E D BY
HOLLY ROBERTS
1
5
Watch by Louis Erard, 2,050. At Goldsmiths. goldsmiths.co.uk 2

Jumper by Pringle Of Scotland, 650. pringleofscotland.com
3
Trainers by Russell & Bromley, 165. russellandbromley.co.uk 4
Raincoat by Lyle & Scott Vintage, 95. lyleandscott.com
Bag by Kenzo, 240. Kenzo.com 6
Shirt by Native Youth, 40. native-youth.com 7
Swim shorts by Bluemint, 79. bluemint.com
8
Jumper by Barbour, 139. barbour.com 9
Trousers by Kit And Ace, 215. kitandace.com
Photographs Mitch Payne; Jody Todd Junior Retail Editor Michiel Steur
Bringing you the very latest in fashion, grooming, watches, news and exclusive events
PREVIEW
We love
Luxury outerwear
by Etro
Around this time of the year, we
suggest you choose a strong and
stylish - piece oftrans-seasonal
outerwear. For a versatile
investment this season head to
family-run Italian brand, Etro. Give
a nod to sophisticated sportswear
and bag this buttery-soft leather
bomber. Cut from calfskin and lined
in the most luxurious striped silk,
this jacket will keep you looking
sharp both on and off-duty.
Jacket by Etro,
2,905. etro.com
PREVIEW
Red gold Chronoliner

watch by Breitling,
22,650. breitling.com
Le Male Essence
de Parfum by
Jean Paul Gaultier,
70 for 125ml. At
Boots. boots.com
How to
Edited by Holly Roberts
Dress like a gentleman

For those modern gents among us who pride themselves on knowing their malts from their bourbons, why
not escape the hustle and bustle of the city and head to
Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood London? Neatly tucked
away in the heart of the capital , you can expect the
atmosphere and sophistication of a gentlemens club
with a cocktail menu to boot. Whether youre spoiling
someone special, or simply heading for an after-work
relaxer, its important to dress the part. Opt for classic outerwear with contemporary lines, such as this herringbone
blazer from Next as an alternative to a suit, or this check
blouson with detachable shearling collar from British
brand Jaeger for a cool off-duty feel. Pair both with dark
denim jeans and these navy suede craftsman boots from
Australian brand RM Williams for a relaxed take on heritage. Elevate the look by injecting colour through your
accessories. This portfolio case from Bally is big enough
to carry your daily wares, but slim enough to be a contemporary and sophisticated alternative
to your briefcase. Throw on the latest
limited edition Breitling Chronoliner in
red gold which truly speaks for itself
and nish with a splash of the new
est fragrance from Jean Paul Gaultier,
Le Male Essence. All that is left is to
sit back and relax, all served best on
the rocks.
Scarfes Bar, Rosewood London,
252 High Holborn, London WC1
Belt by Massimo Dutti,

29.95. massimodutti.com
Jacket, 85. Shirt, 30. Both by Next. next.co.uk
Document case by
Bally, 450. bally.co.uk
Jacket by Jaeger,
99. jaeger.co.uk
Boots by
RM Williams, 350.
rmwilliams.com
N O T J U S T A N E W T V.
A W H O L E N E W C AT E G O R Y
OF TELEVISION.
_mnxxyzssnslyjqj{nxntsuwtizhjxfsnshwjingqjunhyzwj|nymnssnyjhtsywfxyymfy
is complimented by an innovative sound bar stand that produces superb audio.
A masterful television from LGs award winning OLED TV range.
lg.com/uk/discoveroled
What the Experts Say
LG EC970V
WINNER
TV OF THE YEAR
SUNS OUT,
GRILLS ON
These barbecues will draw
as many plaudits as your
burgers and beer-can chicken
E D I T E D BY
CHARLIE BURTON
&STUART McGURK
Best
smoker
BARBECUE TEST #1
Summit charcoal grill

byWeber
Weber has always been a go-to brand for two types
ofcooker: barbecues and smokers. For the rst time,
however, it is combining the two so whether you want
a low-and-slow rack of ribs (the dedicated vents will
keep the temperature in the smoke zone) or a searing
hot steak (the Rapidre lid damper will get the heat
up in no time) you have both options at your disposal.
The clincher: Theres a gas ignition system to get your
charcoal roaring.
1,500. weber.com
P H OTO G R A P H S BY
MATTHEW BEEDLE
LAB
Best for
precision
BARBECUE TEST #2
Joe Jr by Kamado Joe

Ceramic kamado-type ovens are still fawned over by chefs, but they usually
come at an extortionate price. That is, unless you buy a Kamado Joe. The new
Joe Jr model has all the advantages of this temperature-steady Japanese
cooking method fast lighting, fuel efficiency and even heat distribution (hello
there, moist, succulent chops!) but is so well proportioned that it wont take
over your garden.
The clincher: The heat deector allows for indirect cooking.
399. kamadojoe.co.uk
Best for
convenience
BARBECUE TEST #3
X Portable

barbecue grill by Gentlemens Hardware
A good grill need not be cumbersome. You can fold this one down to
suitcase size, and when you arrive at the campsite just pop it open for a
sturdy cooking surface, which, at 400 sq cm, can take a lot of food. Just
be sure to let it cool down before you chuck it back into the Rangey.
The clincher: At only two kilograms, its the lightest on test.
50. At Lakeland. lakeland.co.uk
Best for
smarts
BARBECUE TEST #5
X Standard

grill
byLotusGrill
X Caliu

Plus
A barbecue can look cool, but how many actually look stylish? The
Caliu Plus was designed specically with good taste in mind. Its not
high tech no temperature gauges or electric ignition here but with
its heat-insulating base blocks it will look splendid on the garden table.
The clincher: Comprising only four parts, its a cinch to clean.
198. caliu.eu
The
BREAKDOWN
Dimensions (w x h x d)
Weber
Kamado Joe
Gentlemens Hardware
Caliu
LotusGrill
39.5 x 45.5 x 36cm
41 x 56 x 53cm
7.6 x 22.2 x 32cm
30.5 x 14 x 40cm
35 x 23.4 x 35cm
65.5kg
30.8kg
2.2kg
11.3kg
3.7kg
2,916 sq cm
377 sq cm
400 sq cm
1,200 sq cm
804 sq cm
Weight
Cooking area
Photographs Matthew Beedle
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Goodbye to all that:

David Camerons
style of collegiate
statecraft is being
superseded by
one of emotive
mass appeal
E TO N , OX FO R D,
O B LIV I O N ?
Enoch Powell said all
political lives end in failure,
and Camerons early departure
means he hasnt ruined a
good quote. But hell be
remembered for legalising
gay marriage against
the wishes of many in
his own party.
BREXIT,
STAGE LEFT
Well that escalated quickly. As our political

leaders drop like ies, GQ asks if the high drama
and hysteria of summer are here to stay. Page 179
STORY BY
Music, Sport,
Tech, Politics,
Film, Books
and the best
opinion for the
month ahead...
Matthew dAncona
173
Rocknroll casualties:
Ricky Gervais as
David Brent with his
on-screen band
Foregone Conclusion
THE GREAT
PRETENDER
Comedy albums: Three of the best
David Brents surprisingly good album showcases

Ricky Gervais obsessive talents and reveals how both
character and creator are victims of rock dreams
STORY BY
Dorian Lynskey
here are an awful lot of good jokes in David Brent: Life

On The Road (out on 19 August), in which Ricky Gervais
chilled-out entertainer mounts a last-ditch attempt
at rock stardom, but not the most predictable one. Brent
was a hopeless boss in The Ofce, but it turns out that hes a more than
competent singer-songwriter. Gervais has said that it would have been
too easy and too cruel to make Brent talentless. The 15 songs on the
album that accompanies the movie are sturdy and infectious. If they
werent coming from a 55-year-old travelling salesman of toilet supplies they might just work.
In one kind of comedy song, music is the vessel rather than the
subject, of the joke. With someone like Tom Lehrer or Victoria Wood,
the pleasure lies in the rhyming, the delivery and the satisfying Lego
click of comedy and songwriting. The style of the music is secondary. To
write a funny song that milks humour from the music itself, however,
requires a great deal of knowledge and affection. Its a skewed expression of fandom. Liam Lynchs Fake David Bowie Song (Sorry mum,
Im ve years late for tea time) and the Flight Of The Conchords Inner
City Pressure, which spoofs both the Pet Shop Boys and socially conscious Seventies soul, illuminate the ne line between the distinctive
and the ridiculous but nobody gets hurt. You have to love an artist in
order to distort their tics so enjoyably.
Gervais has that fandom but hes doing something trickier with Life
On The Road because hes writing as Brent, and Brent doesnt think hes
being funny. In the movie the pathos of his doomed tour with his band
Foregone Conclusion comes from his unshakeable conviction that an
A&R man will see him in action and be unable to resist. Even when the
songs sound like Tom Petty or ELO, the joke is on the middle-aged man
TENACIOUS D
Tenacious D
Actor Jack Black and
his friend, Kyle Gass,
formed mock-rock
band Tenacious D
in1994. Best lyrics:
With karate Ill kick
your ass. Here to
Tiananmen Square.
FLIGHT OF THE
CONCHORDS
Flight Of The Conchords
Back in 1998, Jermaine
Clement and Bret
McKenzie formed the
Conchords while
roommates at the
University of
Wellington, NZ.
THE AXIS OF
AWESOME
Animal Vehicle
Australian YouTube
stars mock the
repetitive cycle of
one-hit-wonder pop
musicians. Theyre best
known for the satirical
song 4 Chords.
from Slough, not the rock stars hes emulating. Thats how Electricity,
a spot-on facsimile of Coldplays starry-eyed anthems about the wonder
of the universe, can feature Chris Martin himself on guest vocals.
Gervais knows how it feels to dream big and fall short. In the early
Eighties he was the singer in foppish pop duo Seona Dancing, who split
up after their only two singles staggered to a halt outside the top 75.
You can trace his subsequent scepticism about fame and ambition to that
formative failure. He has said that hes only a capable songwriter now
because he can hide behind the veil of irony. When youre not trying
to present your authentic self to the world youre free to revel in the
tricks, clichs, and formulas that become absurd when you think about
them for too long. It turns songwriting into a fabulous game, but one
that you can only play well if you can write a strong melody yourself.
In the world of non-ction bands Im reminded of The Darkness,
a group who made some of the most pleasurable hair-metal since the
Eighties by acknowledging the anachronistic ludicrousness of the
Pankaj Mishra on the motivation behind the revolt against the West, from Gideon Rachmans guide to global instability, Easternisation (Bodley Head, 20), out now.
The Chinese software engineer, Turkish tycoon and unemployed

Egyptian graduate... derive profound gratification from the
prospect of humiliating their former masters and overlords
endeavour. It was as if frontman Justin

Hawkins had invented a brasher, less selfaware character called Justin Hawkins
who could live out his dreams for him.
Although the ambiguity proved impossible
to sustain, their rst album had a wonderfully liberated brio. The Darkness were,
unlike Spinal Tap or Tenacious D, a real
band but within those inverted commas
they could do as they pleased.
I assumed Primal Scream were playing
a similar game on their profoundly daft
2006 album Riot City Blues, featuring Were
Gonna Boogie and Suicide Sally & Johnny
Guitar, and could never listen to it again
once I realised they werent kidding. In fact,
Brents Stones-infatuated Thank F*** Its
Friday would slide perfectly onto Riot City
Blues. Such borderline cases demonstrate
that rock music is often just an inch away from absurdity and requires only the slightest satirical amplication.
The deciding factor is self-awareness. Any fan of Queen
or Muse knows that the willingness to be preposterous
is tremendously empowering for both artist and listener.
Conversely, nothing is more inadvertently comical than
earnestness. The funniest songs on Life On The Road
channel Brents neurotic determination to convince
people that hes not prejudiced into excruciating protest
songs. Native American, Please Dont Make Fun Of
The Disabled and the reggae-lite Equality Street
are only slightly more sanctimonious and misjudged
than, say, the Cranberries I Just Shot John Lennon or
Melanie Cs If That Were Me. Put Brents thoughts on
the disabled (Whether mental in the head/Or mental
in the legs/Doesnt mean their sorrow doesnt show)
and Melanie Cs take on homelessness (I couldnt live
without my phone/But you dont even have a home)
to a blind taste test and Im not sure everyone could distinguish the spoof from the real thing.
David Brents tragedy is that he cant see why what
hes doing is funny. He believes too deeply in rocknrolls
power to transform and inform to understand that it can
also be very silly. Gervais understands that duality on an
atomic level. Thats how, 32 years after his pop dreams
died, he can nally release a very enjoyable debut album
by pretending to be somebody else. David Brent: Life
On The Road is out on 19 August.
Life lessons
from literature
No3
Recognise a global
power shift
ILL-STARRED
BY MOONLIGHT
It takes a poet to smooth the edges
of a cataclysmic air disaster that
gripped post-war France. In
Constellation, Adrien Bosc does so
without ever letting go of the cold,
dark underbelly of calamity
STORY BY
Bill Prince
FLYING from Paris to New

York on the night of 27
October 1949, 48 souls
borne aloft by Howard
Hughes accident-prone
aircraft are lost en route
toarefuelling stop in the
Azores. The eccentric
billionaire drew the plans
freehand, Adrien Bosc
writes in Constellation of
theplane that lends its
name tohis account of the
disaster, leaving to the
engineers the task of
adapting them to the laws
ofaeronautics. On board
are across-section of the
eras global nomads,
beneciaries of this
newly accelerated Atlantic
crossing (20 hours, against
four to ve days at sea),
engaged variously in
business dealings, concert
tours, emigrations and,
inthe caseof its most
famous passenger, a
rematch with the Raging
Bull himself, JakeLaMotta.
Marcel Cerdan has opted
to y because his lover,
thesinger dith Piaf, is
performing in New York and
pining for the former world
middleweight champion.
Her impatience
overrides the
warnings of two
astrologers, as well
as the Algerianborn boxers wife,
whos uneasy about
the impending ight if
presumably unaware of its
necessity.
That Cerdan, his manager
and a friend abort the travel
plans of three other
passengers bumped from
the ight is simply another
grisly corollary of the trip,
culminating in a 49th
casualty, who gasses herself
after hearing of the death of
the gifted violinist on board,
Ginette Neveu. The historical
contusions continue to stack
up: one victim is the
inventor of the Mickey
Mouse watch and thus the
SPOILER
ALERT
This book is about an
air disaster. if you are on
or about to board an
aircraft, you may
wish to turn the
page now...
saviour of the entire Disney

empire; another leaves
anine-year-old son
sodistraught that he
growsup to become
apsychiatrist specialising
inchildhood traumas.
As well as meticulously
researching the
circumstances of this
multi-part drama, Bosc
searches for its echo. He
nds it in a sister aircraft,
dispatched to retrace the
ight path of the doomed
plane (which establishes that
navigational issues had
ploughed the aircraft
into a mountainside
55 miles from its
designated
aireld) being
decommissioned
22 years to the day
after the accident,
and theunearthing
of afragment of Neveus
missing Guadagnini violin.
(Another, a Stradivarius,
wasnever recovered.)
But Bosc doesnt stop at
recovering the granular
detail that goes with the
lossof the Constellation;
heachieves an almost
telepathic connection with
the fateful forces that drove
its human cargo to board the
aircraft in the rst place.
Constellation by Adrien Bosc
translated by William Wood
(Other Press, 11.99) is out
on 20 August.
THERES NO SUCH THING

AS A FREE LAUNCH
Facebooks Free Basics initiative aims to extend connectivity into India and the rest of the developing world.
But is it an of act humanitarian goodwill, a grab to monopolise new markets or just digital colonialism?
STORY BY
Andrew Keen
rom its earliest origins, the internet has been about more
management. Mark Zuckerberg, certainly, is a supporter. We believe
than just showing off cool technology. Network pioneers
that every person should have access to free basic internet services
from the American father of the internet, Vannevar Bush,
tools for health, education, jobs and basic communication, Zuckerberg
to Tim Berners-Lee, the British inventor of the World
posted on his Facebook page in July 2014 to celebrate internet.orgs
Wide Web wanted to use this transformative technology to
rst-year anniversary.
enable open access to everyone and thus make the world
In September 2015, Zuckerberg spoke at the United
a better, fairer and richer place. Connectivity, visionaries
Nations Assembly about the importance of universal access,
like Bush and Berners-Lee believed, would be liberating.
suggesting that connectivity should begin in refugee
It would stimulate growth, create jobs, increase wages,
camps, and that access can lift one in ten from poverty.
%
even enrich democracy.
So whats not to like about Facebooks Free Basics? Isnt
of the UKs population
So has todays internet, increasingly shaped by the likes
it the obvious solution to connect those left behind by the
are connected to
of Facebook, lived up to these lofty expectations? Is the
digital revolution? No, not quite. The benets of Free Basics
the internet
digital revolution increasing growth, jobs and public services?
are ambiguous like those of the internet itself. Yes, nobody
Has connectivity made the world a fairer place?
can argue that the more than 25 million people already connected
According to Digital Dividends, a World Bank report published earlier
on Free Basics would be better off without this free internet service. Nor
this year, the answer is yes and no. Yes, the report acknowledges, the
can one dispute the value of Facebooks innovative approach to connumber of internet users worldwide has more than tripled since 2005
nectivity particularly its experiments to deliver free internet access
with 3.4 billion or 40 per cent of the population now having access.
to remote villages via drones or lasers.
But theres a big problem with Free Basics too its connectivity isnt
But while the use of the internet is increasing rapidly throughout the
developing world, it isnt really making the world a fairer place. In fact,
generally as fast or as reliable as paid internet access. Sure, its free.
the World Bank report says, the digital dividends of the internet revolution have mostly
not been realised. Indeed, it bleakly concludes,
60 per cent of the worlds population are still
not connected and so totally excluded from
the increasingly dynamic networked economy.
Internet access in the developing world
isnt just economically critical, its also an
intensively sensitive political issue. Indeed,
at the very moment that the World Bank was
warning about the emergence of a two-speed
digital world, so a dramatic political restorm
was raging in India about a free internet
access service that, many critics argued, actually compounded this two-tiered system.
The universal access service is a
Facebook initiative. Originally called
internet.org, it offers Free Basics,
a stripped-down internet available
through local mobile phone operators. Launched in 2013, it is already
being used by more than 25 million worldwide.
At rst glance, Free Basics represents a practical addendum to Digital Dividends. Indeed,
the concerns of World Bank executives such
as Jim Yong Kim and Kaushik Basu are echoed
by internet.orgs mission statement: Most of
the world does not have access to the internet.
internet.org is a Facebook-led initiative with
the goal of bringing internet access and the
benets of connectivity to the two-thirds of
the world that doesnt have them.
Free Basics is a multibillion-dollar initiative
that has the backing of Facebooks most senior
86
India struck a
blow against
two-tier access
when it banned
Free Basics
Photographs Getty Images; Landmark Media; Rex
But its also second-class, with some, those that can afford to pay
for access, being more equal than others who cant.
Theres another problem: Zuckerbergs claim that internet.org is
designed to benet mankind is self-serving tosh. The truth is that this
is a cleverly marketed commercial initiative. Facebooks $300 billionplus market cap and its advertising-centric business model depends
on growing its community of users. Free Basics is designed to expose
internet newbies to Facebooks increasingly broad suite of products
from Facebook to Instagram, WhatsApp to virtual reality
platform Oculus Rift. Free Basics is a very narrow
front door to an internet that is, in many ways,
just an extension of Facebook itself. Free Basics
is the country with
decides where you can go on the internet. Its not
the most internet
even possible to access social media rivals Twitter
users, at 721
million
or the Google+ social network on the platform.
Thus the political restorm over Free Basics. In
February, Indian regulators struck a deant blow
against two-tiered internet access when it banned Free Basics from
the country. The decision was taken because regulators and activists
saw the Facebook initiative as a breach of network neutrality rules
the controversial principle that all trafc should travel equally on
the internet.
With its rapidly expanding digital marketplace, Indias decision
is more than symbolic. It offers protection real digital dividends
for the hundreds of millions of poor Indians who are about to
come online. If other countries follow India in banning zero-rated
services, it might ensure that the digital world will, indeed, be a
fairer place in the future.
I was travelling in India in February, and from prominent venture
capitalists to government ministers, advertising executives to architects of Indias
Networking event:
Facebooks Mark
digital policy, there was universal support
Zuckerberg launches
for the outlawing of Free Basics. The
internet.org in New
Delhi, 9 October 2014
American export of free, lower-quality
access to the Indian market was often
perceived in neo-colonial terms.
Facebook might not quite be the
British East India Company
but the comparisons are sufcient to raise the hackles of
millions of Indians.
Still, banning services such
people worldwide
have access to
as
Free Basics isnt a panacea
the internet
for digital development. As the
World Bank report notes, effective
digital development requires what it calls an
analogue complement; digital technology
without a strong basic legal, educational,
political and health infrastructure risks
both higher inequality and an intrusive
state, the report warns. For digital
dividends to be widely shared among all
parts of society, countries also need to
improve their business climate, invest in
peoples education and health, and promote
good governance, adds the World Bank
president Jim Yong Kim.
The success of the digital revolution
thus relies on its analogue complements.
Connectivity might be liberating. But
reaping the dividends of the internet will,
ironically, be dependent on everything
except technology.
CHINA
3.4
BILLION
THE NEVER-ENDING
WOODY ALLEN
RETURN TO FORM
Everyone says they love him, but for every
magnicent Manhattan theres a sorry Scoop
STORY BY
Stuart McGurk
PICK a Woody Allen lm made in

the last two decades, and theres
one thing you can guarantee:
someone, somewhere, will have
declared it a return to form.
It started, in earnest, with 1995s
Bullets Over Broadway. This, said
Premiere, getting the ball rolling,
was a brilliant return to form; by
contrast, 1998s Deconstructing
Harry was a return to top form.
You Will Meet A Tall, Dark
Stranger was, according to the
Guardian, an elegant return to
form, and his latest, Caf Society,
starring Kristen Stewart and Jesse
Eisenberg (above) as doomed
lovers in Thirties Hollywood is, adds
the Guardian again, with slightly
more qualied praise, something
of a return to form.
For 2009s Vicky Cristina
Barcelona, the Economist even
pointed out the trope: Every
timean Allen lm
comes along, it
harrumphed, the
critics fall over
themselves to hail it
a return to form. It
still went on to call
it a return to form.
Why is this? Are
any of these Allen
lms actually a
return to form? Or,
if they all are, isnt
he just now on the
same form? (ie,
good, not great,
ne for the plane).
Caf Society is, in many ways,

typical post-golden age Woody: a
remix of all his previous themes
fate, chance, love etc thats
judged tobe better than his worst
(with 2006s Scoop on the list, how
could it not?), but falling short of
his 1979 Manhattan best (ditto).
And that, really, is how Allen does
it. By making so many lms
always one a year, like tax returns
hes rigged the game. With pretty
much every other lm a bad one
(and when Allen does bad, he
doesnt hold back), it makes the
next vaguely good one a return to
form by default. For fans who are
still hoping hell get back to his
Seventies heyday, its like being ina
cultural abusive relationship. Any
small act of kindness (Vicky Cristina
Barcelona) is seized upon because
at least its not, say, asmack in the
mouth (2004s Melinda And
Melinda). Any kind word
(Caf Society) feels
kinder because at least
we havent, say, been
locked in the loft for
two weeks (2007s
Cassandras Dream
ifyou havent seen it,
youll probably prefer
the loft).
Allen has, in essence,
gamed thepleasurepain principle for lm
criticism. Its form, but
not as we know it.
Caf Society is out
on2 September.
Inferior football. Inferior players.

No winter break. And yet the
worlds best managers all want
their shot at the English title...
STORY BY
Martin Samuel
obody calls the Premier League the best in the world any
more. The evidence against it is too overwhelming. Over
the past ve seasons English and Spanish teams have met
in Europe on 35 occasions, with eight English wins to 20 by
Spain. In the same period, only two Spanish clubs have been removed
from Europe by English opposition and one of those victories was
Chelseas mystifying Champions League semi-nal triumph against
Barcelona in 2012, despite being outplayed over two legs. Spain is where
its at right now, and has been for several years.
And yet: Rafael Bentez.
On 25 May, two weeks after Newcastles relegation from the Premier
League, Bentez announced that he would remain their manager next
season. He had initially arrived in March, a reghter hired by a desperate Mike Ashley to keep them up. It was too late. Newcastle dropped,
but with no blame attached to Bentez, who did
his best. The fans took to him instantly
Th
ri l l
and it was considered a great shame
l e a of
d N th
that having nally found a worldew e c
ca ha
class coach, Bentez would
st
l
now depart. He would get
better offers from Europe
and Newcastle would be
left to regroup with an
inferior steward in the
Championship.
E xce p t , B e n te z
stayed. A manager who
had started the previous season at Real
Madrid instead signed
on for a year of visits to
the glamorous surrounds
of Preston and Rotherham.
Bentez will be putting his
reputation on the line at Burton
Albions 6,912-capacity Pirelli
Stadium, with anything bar automatic promotion considered failure. So
we must have something. English football may
come a poor second to Spain, but it undoubtedly has appeal that transcends the 90 minutes. Bentez would not have sought employment at
a club relegated from La Liga last season Rayo Vallecano, Getafe or
Levante and probably wouldnt consider some of those in mid-table,
either, such as Las Palmas, Mlaga or Espanyol. One presumes a coach of
his calibre could get that type of gig any time he wishes. He doesnt. He
wants to work in England. All the best coaches do. Pep Guardiola, Jrgen
Klopp, Jos Mourinho, Antonio Conte. Increasingly, they gravitate here.
It cannot just be the money. These guys have money. They work
because they want to, not because they have to and that means they
work where they want to as well. Had Mourinho dropped different
hints, he would almost certainly be manager of Paris Saint-Germain
now; and the same is true of Guardiola. Klopp could have followed
to
hopes
te z
e n re m i e r Le a g u e
lB
P
ae he
a f to t
:R k
se b a c
e
some of his players in making the move from Borussia Dortmund to

Bayern Munich; Conte would be taking his pick in Serie A. So, undeniably, English football has an X factor. It may be the unique demands,
the open competition, the global reach. It certainly isnt the opportunity to work with the worlds greatest players, because they are all
in Spain too. Yet a year ago, Bentez was preparing to sign up with
West Ham, until Real Madrid intervened. And not the West Ham that
will move to the Olympic Stadium this season and play in the Europa
League either. Bentez was coming to a club that had nished 12th and
won two league matches since 18 January. He had the contract in his
hands, ready, when the call came from Madrid. His decision was entirely
understandable but now he is so keen to get back to where he could
have been, that he is prepared to serve a season in the Championship
to make that happen.
Of course, Newcastle presents a unique opportunity. More than any
club it conforms to the clich of the sleeping giant. Decades of poor
executive management have left it weak yet even in a relegation
season only Arsenal, Manchester United and
For the love Manchester City enjoyed a greater average
of the game home attendance. The manager who makes
Newcastle successful again will be fted like
One returning and two
new super-coaches look
no other and Ashley, stung by recent events,
set to make 2016-17
is now prepared to empower Bentez over the
a classic season
dreaded transfer committee. With Newcastles
size, and given those conditions, Bentez
will rightly fancy his chances. Even so, this
season will be a 46-game slog, with an ordinary group of players, away from the spotlight.
The Premier League narrative is so strong that
Newcastle will stay a subplot, and not even
GUARDIOLA
a very big one. The pull of the game here must
Club: Manchester City
be extraordinary for Bentez to work in relative
Personal fortune: 32.3m
obscurity in the mere hope of return.
The double Champions
League winner faces
So what is it? Why, when the numbers
a more gruelling,
suggest the Premier League is palpably
competitive campaign
than he ever did at Bayern
inferior, does the English game carry such
Munich or Barcelona.
allure? Mourinho encapsulated it on his return
to Chelsea in 2013.
England is the mother country of football,
he said. The competitiveness is very, very
high. I dont much enjoy winning 6-0. I dont
much enjoy playing in a league where you
know you are against one other team and this
CONTE
is about 90 points, 92 points, 96 points, 100
Club: Chelsea
points, 100 goals, 110 goals, 120 goals. If you
Personal fortune: 7.3m
make a little mistake, you are in big trouble
He comes highly
because your direct opponent wont lose any
recommended after
successful spells with
games. English football pushes everybody
Juventus and Italy, but
to the maximum of possibilities. The extra
must oversee a rebuilding
project in west London.
competition, 60 matches, 70 matches, three
matches in a row, the Christmas period, the
Easter period, the accumulation to the limit.
In Spain, I had a Christmas holiday. New
York, then Brazil. But I prefer to play. I was
totally envious watching the Premier League
in that time.
It was pointed out to him that all the stuff he
MOURINHO
Club: Manchester United
had just eulogised the League Cup, no winter
Personal fortune: 40m
break, three games in seven days was what
After the disaster of that
most observers thought held English football
second spell at Stamford
Bridge, the Special One
back. His answer is the root of the conunneeds instant success at
drum. Im not saying its right, he said. I
United. Luckily, thats his
just love it.
speciality. Ale Baldwin
Photographs Getty Images; The Times/News Syndication
A LEAGUE OF
THEIR OWN
THE BATTLE OF
BRITAIN HAS BEGUN
Say goodbye to politics as you know it. The EU referendum
played out through a series increasingly unpredictable
psychodramas, power struggles and false promises. Now,
GQ considers the terra incognita of a post-Brexit world...
STORY BY
s we absorb the rst measures

taken by a new prime minister, there is time to draw breath
after the most extraordinary few
months in British politics since (and perhaps
including) the fall of Margaret Thatcher, and to
reect upon the lessons of the EU referendum
and an aftermath that included the replacement of David Cameron by Theresa May. The
express train will speed up again soon enough,
as the annual party conferences dramatise the
struggles ahead.
As so often, George Orwells
Nineteen Eighty-Four provides a
useful text. Interrogating rebel
Winston Smith, OBrien, the Inner
Party mandarin, declares, The
Party seeks power entirely for its
own sake... The object of power
is power. In this ctional dystopia, there is only politics, and
politics is its own purpose. The
improvement of mankinds lot is
immaterial and hostile to the
objectives of the Party.
Superficially, at least,
the referendum was about
liberation from the Big
Brother of Brussels and
taking back control. At
stake on 23 June was nothing
less than the institutional, legal,
commercial, scal and administrative future of the country. The
outcome of the vote will have a
profound impact upon how we trade, make our
laws, control our borders and forge our geopolitical position in a century that is still young.
Yet the debate that preceded the vote was
pure politics. The technicalities of Brexit were
pushed aside by the Tory psychodrama of
Boris Johnson vs David Cameron. The papers
were full of personality, ambition, feud and
rivalry. If you looked hard, there were graphics
explaining how the proposed departure from
the EU might work and how it would transform our system of governance. But the spotlight never wavered from the Tory turmoil that
so helpfully personied the argument.
To the extent that the debate was ever about
issues of policy, it often veered into the realm
of fantasy. Boris battle bus bore big lettering
Front-page news:
The British media
reacts to the EU
referendum and its
immediate aftermath,
23 and 24 June
Matthew dAncona
to the effect that 350 million a
week was being sent to the EU as the
price of membership, but that after
Brexit could be spent on the NHS
instead. This was doubly misleading:
the 350m gure was a gross gure
that did not take account of Britains
rebate or the EU subsidies sent to UK
recipients (the real, net gure has been
variously estimated, and was probably
closer to 120m per week).
Second: who were the Leavers to
say that the post-Brexit economy
would be able to sustain present levels
of public spending on the NHS let
alone hundreds of millions more per
week? Worse, could the Brexiteers not
see how dangerous their claims about
immigration control might be? It was
bad enough to stir the pot of ugly
atavism and social fragmentation.
What compounded the error
grievously was to raise expectations of reforms that
would assuage these
sentiments. In practice,
immigration control is
immensely complex, once
the state takes account of
labour market needs, family
entitlements and natural justice.
All the sloganeering about
immigration helped decide the
referendum, but it was lousy
expectation management.
Ludicrously, we are only now
debating the practicalities of
Brexit after the vote. Leave, it
seems clear, did not have much
of a plan to unroll if it won. But had
anyone really prepared for such an
outcome? Cameron knew only that
his position was no longer tenable. His
team had braced itself for a condence
vote and was sure it had the numbers
of Tory MPs. But, in the harsh light of
24 June, it was clear to the PM that as
the gurehead of Remain he was an
implausible chief negotiator for Brexit.
And so the country lost an experienced, able prime minister whom it had
re-elected only 13 months before.
A shot at peace:
Flower Power (1967)
by Bernie Boston
Ludicrously, we are
only now debating the
practicalities of Brexit
It may seem odd for a political commentator
to criticise the consuming role that politics
played in the campaign. I wont deny that it
has been good for trade. Who could resist the
Agatha Christie novel that was Michael Goves
subversion of Johnsons leadership campaign?
So one must not be priggish. Political drama is
an important part of any functioning democracy, the stage on which its key protagonists
act out the great battles of the day. But there
is a growing risk that politics will push out
government; or, put another way, that politics
becomes a game about power alone, not the
pursuit of power with a purpose.
Social media has oxygenated a trend that
predates its ruthless, instant judgments. In
this country, cynicism about politics has been
nurtured by sleaze under the Tories, spin under
New Labour and, most recently, the disaster of
the parliamentary expenses scandal in 2009.
The notion of statesmanship is not taken seriously by the electorate. As a nation, we still
expect a huge amount from the state, especially in our unique healthcare system. But the
notion of politics as a path taken by those who
want to perform public service and improve life
for their fellow citizens well, let us just say
that it invites derision.
Nor is this crisis of conviction limited to
Britain. When Donald Trump announced
his candidacy for the US presidency, his
inexperience in government was cited as a disqualication. In fact, it explains his appeal. He is
seen by his supporters as a clean-skin, uncontaminated by the excuses of career politicians.
Trump routinely proposes ideas that would
be impossible for a civilised superpower
to implement (how, for instance, would he
ban Muslims from entering the US, without
employing an army of telepaths?). Yet every
time he does so, the voters applaud. Once
again, high-octane politics has eclipsed the
reality of government and raised a bombastic
amateur to the brink of the presidency.
Government will never be granted the same
coverage or public attention as politics. But
it continues all the same: taxes are imposed,
spending is controlled, laws are passed, schools
are built, hospitals closed. All this goes on,
whether we take notice or not. Decisions are
made not by those who vote, but by those
whom the vote empowers. If the summer
of Brexit has a lesson, it is that we get the
government we deserve.
POWER TO THE PEOPLE

As agents of social and political change, artists have long been
on activisms front line. This autumn, a troop of exhibitions
pay tribute to half a century of revolutionary spirit
STORY BY
Sophie Hastings
THREE new exhibitions fuelled by ideas of

lm and design that dened the counterculture
political activism open this autumn and three,
of an era in which anew generation imagined
as they say, is a trend. Later this month,
adifferent way of life. Highlights include
Victoria Miro Gallery (16 Wharf Road, London
interviews with Yoko Ono andTwiggy, seminal
lms Easy Rider and 2001: A Space Odyssey,
N1. victoria-miro.com) launches Protest (23
artworks by Richard Hamilton and ashopping
September 5 November), featuring works by
list written behind the barricades during the
Elmgreen & Dragset, Richard Prince and Isaac
1968 Paris Riots.
Julien, whose acutely prescient 2007 lm
Finally, Fear And Love: Reactions To
WESTERN UNION: Small Boats is a meditation
AComplex World, (from 24 November) is the
on migration and the hope for abetter life.
Design Museums inaugural show at its new
Elmgreen & Dragsets Sentence, No1 (2016)
takes the utilitarian architecture ofprison
home (High Street Kensington, London W8.
doors and reduces them to a minimalist wall
designmuseum.org), where its chief curator,
hanging, a useless gilded cage with no way
Justin McGuirk (who curated the winning
inor out. The exhibition serves as a call to
installation at the 2012 Venice Architecture
Biennale, inspired by
action, says Victoria Miros
director of exhibitions, Erin
communal living in a
Manns, inspiring us to
Caracas slum), will explore
consider the socialand
radical design solutions
political issues that confront
tothe problems of
our global community.
urbanisation. Architecture
Protest is on during
has stolen a march on art, in
terms of imaginative social
Freize, the most commercial
engagement, and with Fear
week ofthe year for
Londons contemporary art
And Love, McGuirk hopes to
community: suggesting
push designers out of their
activism is the art worlds
comfort zones, encourage
new black. Right on cue
them to build new and
unexpected relationships
comes You Say You Want A
Revolution? Records And
and to communicate with
Rebels 1966-70 (10
audiences in an unfamiliar
September 26 February)
way, responding to our
at the V&A (Cromwell Road,
collective hopes and
London SW7. vam.ac.uk)
doubtsabout the pace and
Get involved: Study For Idol Hands
revealing a rich archive of
impact of change on the
by Jules de Balincourt (2012) from
way we live.
the photography, music,
Protest at Victoria Miro Gallery
HEAR
NAVIGATOR
Wildower
by The Avalanches
out now (xl)
A frankly ridiculous 16 years since

their debut album, Australian
collagists The Avalanches have
somehow lost none of their charm.
This big, friendly, psychedelic circus
of a record is like a post-hip-hop
version of what Brian Wilson was
trying to do with Smile. This time
their vivid tapestry of samples
also includes esh-and-blood
performers such as Biz Markie and
Mercury Revs Jonathan Donahue.
DORIAN LYNSKEY
HEAR
Boy King
by Wild Beasts
out now (domino)
The Lake District quartet extend

a tremendous run of albums with
their most physical and immediate
record yet. Rhythm is king on an
album of feverish electro-funk
ruminations on sex and masculinity
which has one eye on Radiohead
and the other on Prince. DL
DONT MISS
Liverpool Biennial
until 16 october
Witness the cultural opening-up

of a complex, historic city across
its galleries, public spaces,
unused buildings and online, by
a host of top contemporary artists,
including Marvin Gaye Chetwynd,
Coco Fusco, Mark Leckey and
Olivier Laric. SH
biennial.com
Photographs Jules de Balincourt; Getty Images; Sony Pictures; Victoria Miro Gallery
Wiener takes it all:

The Pixar/Disney
spoof Sausage Party
Set your cultural compass to this months pole stars
Detroit Lions as a quarterback

wannabe, all six of his sports books
are available in the UK for the rst
time. OLIVIA COLE
SEE
WAT C H
WAT C H
Ben-Hur 3D
War Dogs
out on 19 august
out on 26 august
The EY Exhibition:
Wifredo Lam
at Tate Modern
14 september 8 january
Biblical epics are back and this

Based on the Rolling Stone story
time in 3-D. A reimagining of the
by Guy Lawson, War Dogs tells the
1880 novel Ben-Hur: A Tale Of The
true-life tale of two hapless stoner
Christ that spawned lm versions in
bros (Jonah Hill and Miles Teller)
1925 and 1959, this one is directed
turned arms traders who radically
by the man who helmed Abraham
undercut the competition and nd
Lincoln: Vampire Hunter, and sees
themselves securing a $300 million
relative newbie Jack Huston (he
government contract to supply
was in Boardwalk Empire),
weapons for US allies in
Afghanistan. Not so
play the titular Jesus
botherer, previously
much sh-out-of-water
EAST OF EDIE
played by Charlton
as sh-deep-fried. SM
Plimpton co-edited Jean
Steins oral history of
Heston. STUART McGURK
WAT C H
Poldark
starts in september
on bbc one
Edie Sedgwick, and

made a cameo (as
himself) in Factory Girl,
starring Sienna Miller as
the doomed heiress.
Its certainly been a wait: a

year and a half after Aidan
Turner was rst catapulted to sex
symbol status (and current bookies
favourite to be the new James
Bond), his brooding 18th-century
landowner is back, and it looks set
to be just as upbeat and aspirational
as the rst (theyve just lost their
child, his company is going down
the pan, theyre broke and hes been
arrested, Turner has said. Its
a cheery beginning). Utter misery.
We love it. SM
READ
Paper Lion:
Confessions
Of A LastString
Quarterback
by George Plimpton
out now (yellow jersey press)
Starting in the late Fifties, away

from the legendary ofces of New
York literary magazine The Paris
Review, editor George Plimpton
turned himself into the ultimate
sportswriter, participating in
distinctly un-writerly activities:
from boxing to baseball to
high-wire circus act. And for the
50th anniversary of his 1966
classic account of joining the
A rst-hand witness to the

spectacle of political upheaval
that was the 20th century
including the Spanish Civil War,
the evacuation of artists and
intellectuals from France during the
Second World War and the Cuban
Revolution Lam dened a new
way of painting that places him at
the centre of global modernism. SH
tate.org.uk
SEE
Turner Prize
at Tate Britain
27 september 8 january
Of this years four nominees,

Anthea Hamilton has probably
the highest prole mostly due
to the medias obsession with the
18-ft sculpture of male buttocks
she included in her last solo
exhibition, Lichen! Libido! Chastity!
but this is a very strong year for
the 40,000 prize, with no clear
winner. Denitely worth a visit. SH
tate.org.uk
WAT C H
Born To Be Blue
out now
Why do so many musicians

become drug addicts? Thats
the question animating
Robert Budreaus biopic of
trumpeter Chet Baker.
F I N A L N OTE
When we meet jazzs
The nal years of
former boy wonder
Bakers life was
played with desperate
documented in Bruce
Webers lm, Lets
charm by Ethan Hawke
Get Lost (1988).
he is at rock bottom
in 1966 and hes trying to
clean up for a big comeback.
That struggle drives a
heartbreaking, study of the
relationship between talent
and self-destruction. DL
READ
Nutshell
by Ian McEwan
out on 1 september (cape)
WAT C H
Sausage Party
out on 12 august
Yes, adults can watch Pixar lms too, but lets face it, theyre not meant for us. The X-rated Sausage Party very
much is. Essentially an anti-Disney lm from Seth Rogan and Evan Goldberg (behind the likes of Superbad and
Kim Jong-un-angering The Interview), it tells the story of a sentient group of vegetables (voiced by the likes
of Rogan, Kristen Wiig, Jonah Hill and James Franco) as they escape being made a meal out of. SM
Since the Seventies, McEwans fan

base has followed him from
the darkness of his early short
stories to the moral complexities
of Atonement and Enduring Love.
But even with his facility for
unexpected perspectives, nobody
predicted a tale told by an unborn
child party to a murder plot. The
miraculously well-educated
narrator is the appalled witness to
his mothers affair with a moronic
property developer, Claude, and
their plot to kill his father a
loving yet hopeless poet, forced
out of the family home by
poisoning his smoothie. OC
this month on
LISTEN
...to exclusive GQ
Apple playlists, from
U2s Adam Clayton to
our office favourites
See behind-thescenes shots and
clips on Instagram
@britishgq
FOLLOW
@BritishGQ on Twitter for the

latest news and fashion trends
FIND
...the best mens
sunglasses of
the season
LIKE
...British GQ on Facebook to see our
Facebook Live videos for debates,
life lessons and style advice from
the likes of Alastair Campbell,
Wolfgang Puck and Jim Chapman
WATCH
...all-new exclusive GQ Video
documentaries and interviews
READ
...our top story every day.

Sign up for the GQ
Commuter newsletter now
THE
CHANGING
MAN
Discover the secrets of the
12-week Evolution Of Man
programme. No cardio.
No machines. No excuses
STORY BY
Paul Solomons
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Simon Webb
Work in progress (from top):

The bar-bod shape of week one;
aselection of the sweet potatoes,
venison, avocado, sh, steak and
ricerecommended for the diet; all
food must be weighed accurately;
(right) the power-building tyre ip
Consuming passion
Water: 332 litres
or 73 gallons, the
equivalent of two
fullbathtubs
Steak: 19.74kg
or 3st 1lb, almost
a quarter of my
own body weight
Turkey burgers: 132
see recipe over
Vegetables: 2.64kg
or 5.8lb
Oats: 5.39kg
or 11.9lb
Nuts: 2.64kg
or 5.8lb
Miles run: 0
Crunches: 0
E D I T E D BY
PAUL HENDERSON
TWELVE-WEEK TRANSFORMATION
The theory of everything

The Evolution Of Man regime will recalibrate your tness,
diet and wellbeing. GQs Creative Director Paul Solomons
said goodbye to his bar-bod and hello to a new life
OVER A DECADE AGO, in June 2005, ve GQ
colleagues and I took part in a six-week body
transformation challenge, each doing different
work-out programmes, ranging from training
with the army to aerobics with supermodels.
I had just returned from LA after shooting the
original Baywatch superstar, Pamela Anderson.
It is hard to forget that shoot, but another
reason I remember that issue of the magazine
so clearly is because I had promised myself
ever since that I would return to the tness I
achieved back then.
I was 31-years-old and I weighed a nottoo-heavy 85kg for my 6ft 3in frame, but
almost a quarter of that weight 24 per cent
was fat (28 per cent is considered clinically
overweight). By the end of the programme I
weighed 75kg, with a trim 14 per cent body
fat. But old habits and routines kicked in. Long
hours in the ofce, skipped breakfasts, one
too many drinks after work the hard work
was undone in no time. I never made it as far
as packing my gym bag since. My annual new
years resolutions always came to nothing.
Work, smoke, drink, eat, repeat. Suddenly
I was 42. I had a dad-bod and I didnt even
have children, so I rechristened it the barbod, and on the horizon, coincidentally, was
another shoot in LA, this time for the new
star playing CJ in the Baywatch reboot, Kelly
Rohrbach. I realised the time for false promises was over.
In February I ran into an old GQ colleague.
I hardly recognised him. He was slim, ripped
and looked liked he had been photoshopped.
Twelve weeks, he said, whipping out his
phone to show me some images. I begged
for the details of his new tness programme.
On the back of my newspaper he wrote,

Evolution Of Man.
I met Tim Walker and Lee Bennett, the
founders and head trainers at Evolution Of
Man (EOM), the following week. Their website
said that the 12-week transformation programme would help me lose more than a stone
(6.3kg) in fat while building almost the same in
muscle. I wondered if this was even possible.
They told me to trust them if I committed
100 per cent, ate what they told me to, lifted
what and how they said I should, then I would,
in their words, look and feel better than you
did in your thirties.
Walker, Bennett and their young recruit
Hakim Mefai were all involved in my training
over the coming weeks and I quickly saw that
their expertise was going to produce extraordinary results. Most London-based gyms have
exercise machines designed for a comfortable
work-out, but being comfortable is not how
Brad Pitt got ready for Fight Club. At Evolution
Of Man there is no treadmill, but there is a
sprinting track armed with a prowler (google
this horror and tremble), a sled to drag, beer
kegs to lift, tractor tyres to drag, sandbags to
carry and throw, and sledgehammers to wield.
We just want men to go back to being men
strong, agile, fast, says Walker.
At the end of this rst meeting at the gym,
Walker took my measurements. I was close
to where I was more than ten years ago
almost 22 per cent body fat and it was clear
that nutrition would be the decisive factor
over three months. You cant out-train a
bad diet, growled Bennett. Full diet plans
and training schedules were emailed to me
within two days and off I ran to Nike Town
to get kitted out with a mixture of excitement

and trepidation.
A lot of men would look at Pauls rst photo
and think, Hey thats ne. Id be happy to look
like that, says Walker. But our job is to make
people the best they can be. Before we could do
this we needed to correct some structural and
postural issues classic city worker problems
so we had Paul seen by our physiotherapist.
It was obvious my lifestyle had to change
too. I stopped buying my morning coffee on
the way to work to avoid the need for the
morning cigarette. I also made sure I left the
ofce on time on Friday to avoid going out for
the evening. This seemed tough enough but it
was nothing compared with what was to come.
I found that doing all the food prep and
cooking myself helped take my mind off what
I would usually be doing at home: drinking,
smoking and watching box sets. Getting into a
new routine at home as well as the gym is the
best thing you can do. And when it got tough
and it did I would simply remind myself of
how much I had consumed in the previous ten
years and the damage I would do if I continued.
Then the hard work began. It would not have
happened without the continual support of the
team at EOM. If the client commits to us and
our plan, well give them everything, says
Bennett. Paul has learnt how to train and eat
properly. He not only came out at 11.9 per cent
body fat (a reduction of 9.1kg), while gaining
4.5kg of lean muscle, but his postural issues
have also improved and at the age of 42 he has
achieved the best physique he has ever had.
This programme became more about my state
of mind than physical transformation. Keeping
a diary was essential and when I look back I can
see when I was focused and when I wavered.
From a page with the word Meltdown!
sprawled across it, to the detailed, measured
notes of the later weeks, it shows how this
level of success depends on a totally immersive
approach. I also remember that in week eight,
when I was really suffering, the boys from EOM
stepped in to help me maintain my focus in the
gym and sent messages of encouragement at
home. The website offers you 24/7 support.
Youll get it and youll need it. Thanks, boys.
See you when Im 50! eomtness.com
Evolution Of Man:
1. The prowler AKA

thewidow maker
As with all of these exercises,
this is a whole-body
conditioning tool that leaves
you no option but to become
extremely t and powerful
(if you make it to the end).
It builds strong legs and
shoulders and teaches you
to keep pushing when you
think you have reached
your limit.
Twelve-week transformation programme

OIncludes 48 one-to-one personal training sessions.
OFull-body physiotherapy consultation.
2. The tyre ip
An EOM favourite that combines
power and explosive strength
to work the whole body, building
fantastic functional strength.
3
3. The sledgehammer
Most top ghters use this tool, as it
promotespower and strength. It builds
powerfulshoulders, forearms and core
agreatstress reliever, too.
OPre- and post-work-out nutrition.

OThe tailored diet plan, 24/7 contact and unlimited
aftercare plus biannual photoshoots (after the 12

weeks and again later in the year) costs 4,000.
OEOM also offers a 60-day programme and group
transformation for up to eight people.
OEmail info@eomtness.com
Photographs Tim Walker; Simon Webb;

Instagram/@paulsolomonsgq
Three of the best... or the worst
LIFE
THE RECIPE
Pauls lean,
mean turkey
burgers
Figures and facts
(Makes eight, ideal

forfreezing)
OTry to buy free-range
or organic ingredients
O2 large red onions,
nely chopped
O2 cloves garlic, crushed
OOrganic coconut oil
O500g white
turkeymince
O500g dark
turkeymince
OGround black pepper
O1 tbsp dried sage herbs
OOrganic our
O2 large organic
eggyolks
OBurger separators
Method
OSlow fry the onion
andcrushed garlic
with the coconut oil
ina small pan. Keep
the lid on to holdin
moisture and avoid
burning. When soft,
leave tocool (the
meatwill start to
cookif you add
theonions when
theyre still hot).
OInto a large bowl
addthe white and
darkturkey meat.
Thedark meat keeps
the burger from drying
out and its also much
tastier. Season with
pepper avoid salt if
you can.
OAdd the cooled
onions,dried sage
andegg yolks, then
mix by hand.
OPlace in the fridge to
cool for 5-10 mins.
OWeigh out the mix
into150g balls. Coat
with a little our to
help it bind.
OPlace each ball in a
burger press or form
with your hands and
store or freeze with
separators between.
OThoroughly defrost
before frying in a
littleoil for 5 mins
oneach side.
Week 1-3
Weight: 87.6kg
Body fat: 21.7%
Waist: 96cm
The rst three weeks
are about getting
thebody back into
exercise and making
sure the nutrition is
onpoint. I trained
three times a week,
working the whole
body in each session
with lifts, squats,
pushing and pulling,
and postural
correction exercises.
Diet was just meat,
sh, chicken and
vegetables, with some
good fats on the side.
By the end of week
two, I was sleeping
uninterrupted all
night, which in itself
was worth all the
hardwork.
Week 6-9
Week 3-6
Weight: 84.7kg
Body fat: 17.5%
Waist: 91cm
Fat lost: 4.1kg
Muscle gained: 1.2kg
With improving
postural awareness
and technical skill
Iramped up the
intensity in the gym
and started adding
complex carbs, such
as rice and sweet
potato, to my diet.
Iused German body
composition (GBC)
training at least twice
a week alongside
strongman training.
GBC consists of
full-body sessions
that hit each muscle
group while keeping
the heart rate high
enough to drop fat
asmuscle packs on.
Weight: 84.4kg
Body fat: 15.6%
Waist: 88cm
Fat lost: 1.7kg
I was now benching
my body weight
anddeadlifting
double mystarting
weight soI used
heavier weights with
more repetitions
toconcentrate on
building muscle.
Istarted using a
carbohydrate cycling
method in my diet
tomake sure the fat
loss continued as
muscle increased.
Myface was much
slimmer now and
although I had a few
incredibly tough
days,I kept my
focusand felt much
stronger overall.
Final week
Week 9-11
Weight: 83.9kg
Body fat: 13.7%
Waist: 85cm
Fat lost: 1.7kg
Still very much
focusing on fat loss
and muscle building,
Ibegan to include
more metabolic
conditioning exercises
such astheprowler,
sledgehammer and
tyre as nishers to
make sure tness
levels matched the
muscle gains made.
Ialso targeted areas
that I felt needed to
look better, such as
shoulders and arms
toget that classic
V-shaped look.
Weight: 83kg
Body fat: 11.9%
Waist: 85cm
Fat lost: 1.6kg
This week was spent
as if I was about to
step onto the stage
for a bodybuilding
competition. During
each of the rst three
days, I drank 6-8 litres
of water, ate small
fat- and carbohydratefree meals and did
high-rep exercises to
squeeze each muscle
Iwas targeting. Later,
I added carbohydrates
and stopped
exercising to let
muscle soak up
glycogen before
thephoto shoot.
Total fat lost: 9.1kg
Total muscle gained:
4.5kg
THE DOS AND DONTS

O Do: Keep ingredients simple and
prepare meals in batches so you
canassemble them easily each
evening. Keep to organic or
free-range if possible.
ODo: Eat at the same time every day.

Consistency is key. I ate breakfast at
7.30am and 10.30am, had lunch at
1pm, ate again at 4pm and 7pm, and
had dinner at 9.30pm.
O Do: Alternate proteins throughout

the day: red meat, sh, chicken etc.
ODo: Drink water. Lots of water. At

least four litres a day.
O Dont: Replace food with protein

shakes. They will never give you the
results you get from eating good,
healthy meals.
ODont: Stress. It produces a

hormonecalled cortisol. This
reduces testosterone levels, which
makes it harder to gain muscle
andcan even reverse the gains
youhave made.
ODo: Weigh carbs before cooking and

protein after (protein shrinks when
cooked so allow for this when
weighing your portions).
ODo: Make friends with your local
butcher and shmonger. Let them
know youll expect mates rates you
will be visiting them often.
ODo: Sleep at least seven hours

anight. This is the second most
important thing after diet to
make gains. Sleep is when your body
produces human growth hormone
and you will be much bigger after
awork-out if its followed by

agoodnights sleep.
ODo: Buy yourself some good digital
scales and lots of food containers.
Mine were 750ml (pictured below)
and were the perfect size.
ODont: Beat yourself up if you miss
ameal or a session. Just refocus
andmove on.
ODo: Remember lots of small changes
to your lifestyle will result in one
huge one. Only you will know what
they should be. For me, it included
walking a different way home to
avoid the pub and no morning
coffee to stop me having that rst
cigarette.
ODont: Give up. Its only three months
of your life.
column where she solves puzzles and

answers questions on various subjects.
Tip: A great way to stay in peak form is
todo novel things often, the way you did
when you were a kid. To a kid, everything
is novel: theres no choice. This keeps
yourcognitive skills sharp and prevents
boredom at the same time.
For more words of wisdom: @VirtualMvS
Think like a genius

Assumed other-worldly intelligence was beyond
your reach? Well, some of the worlds most brilliant
minds have shared their secret smarts with us...
STEVEN PINKER
Intelligence: Pinker is a professor at
Harvard, an award-winning experimental
cognitive psychologist and one of the
worlds foremost writers on language,
mind and human nature.
Tip: No one is smart enough to come
upwith a truly brilliant idea out of the
blue: were all aggregators, combiners,
greatest-hits collectors. I read widely, and
not just in my own eld, nor just people
who agree with me. I also hoard my time
and concentration: no meetings or phone
calls when a quick email will do; no
electronic alerts while Im working.
For more words of wisdom: @sapinker
ROBERT J SHILLER
Intelligence: Shiller is one of the worlds
most inuential economists and a
Nobel Laureate. He currently serves
as a Sterling Professor of
economics at Yale University.
Tip: I tend to be distractible,
so I try to surround myself
with good reading material
and avoid watching television
or listening to the radio,
which can suck my attention
in. It is not just the quality of
the books; I try to seek out
less popular reading
material. I dont believe in
celebrities, generally, and
watching or reading about
celebrities is generally a
mistake, since one winds up
reading the same thing as
everyone else. To be useful one
has to be different.
For more words of wisdom:
@RobertJShiller
MAURICE ASHLEY
Intelligence: Jamaican-born American
Ashley was the rst black chess
grandmaster and is an author,
commentator, app designer, puzzle
inventor and motivational speaker.
Tip: To stay hyper-motivated and
productive, I always try to have a large
long-term vision to accomplish. Thinking
and dreaming big stretches my mind to
try to resolve challenges that would
never appear if I simply focused on
knocking off the mundane day-today tasks of everyday life. As for
kicking my brain into gear, I nd
that adding new and interesting
words to my vocabulary
whether through learning a new language,

reading constantly or playing word games
such as Scrabble keeps my brain sharp,
fresh and in a mode to learn and expand.
@MauriceAshley
MARILYN VOS SAVANT
Intelligence: Vos Savant is known for
having the highest recorded IQ (228)
according to the Guinness Book Of Records
and, since 1986, she has written Ask
Marilyn, a Parade magazine Sunday
Head space:
Physical activity
or switching off
social media
alerts will enhance
your productivity,
the key to keeping
your brain sharp
PHILIP EMEAGWALI
Intelligence: Commonly known as a
father of the internet, Emeagwali created
the worlds fastest computer and has an
estimated IQ of 190.
Tip: Im more productive when I do my
intellectual work early in the morning. My
bandwidth is limited and I avoid internet
noise so I dont read emails or social
media and I dont answer telephone calls.
I dont even hold a conversation with my
wife in the mornings. I drink a cup of green
tea, wear my pyjamas and multitask by
listening to interviews and lectures.
emeagwali.com
DR ROBERT F SPETZLER
Intelligence: Spetzler is an award-winning
neurosurgeon and is director of Barrow
Neurological Institute. He has written more
than 300 articles on cerebrovascular and
neurological topics.
Tip: In part, I credit challenging physical
activity to my success as a brain surgeon.
I am an avid biker, swimmer, extreme skier
and marathoner. Every year, I lead a group
of colleagues at Barrow Neurological
Institute on a gruelling 23-mile hike
across the Grand Canyon. Not only
do the physical adventures full the
desire to be t, but they also clear
my mind to be ready for my next
large surgical case.
@BarrowNeuro
PAUL G ALLEN
Intelligence: Allen is founder
of Vulcan Inc, co-founder of
Microsoft with Bill Gates,
and founder of The
Hospital Club, London.
Tip: The best way
to stay sharp and
engaged is to
keepasking hard
questions and
thinkout of the
box.I regularly seek
outpeople who know
much more than I do on
a given subject, and this
helps me stay abreast
of new developments
ina wide range of elds.
Sometimes I bring together
leaders from diverse areas
to talk with each other.
Inevitably, this reveals
unexpected connections and
new ideas to pursue. And nally,
saturate your brain with everything you
can nd and learn about diverse elds,
and a new idea will emerge!
For more words of wisdom: @PaulGAllen
Eleanor Halls
Illustration Shutterstock Photographs Charlie Surbey
BRAIN TRAINING
LIFE
GEAR
Action stations
Dont forget to pack

these sport staples
when you head
away this summer...
Boll cycle helmet

& sunglasses
The One Road cycle helmet has 31 inlets,
an LED light, is aerodynamic and holds
your sunglasses. Pair it with Bolls 5th
Element Pro sunnies. Helmet, 109.
Sunglasses, 149. bolle-europe.co.uk
Kit And Ace

sportswear
Kit And Ace is
a sportswear
brand created
by Lululemon
Athleticas
former lead
designer. We
recommend its
luxury Turning
Point polo shirt
for the golf
course, the
tennis court, the
beach 140.
kitandace.com
Suunto Ambit3
Vertical
The Ambit3 is the ultimate
adventure tool. It
monitors your elevation,
is water-resistant to 100m
and features a digital
compass for navigation.
243.75. suunto.com
Jabra Sport Pulse

New Balance trainers
These limited-edition
all-American red, white and blue
Explore By Air 997s are a mix of
suede, mesh and leather, but with
all the modern cushioning of a
21st-century running shoe.
155. endclothing.com
Samsonite Lite-Biz
Protect your tness
kit when you travel.
The Samsonite Curv
collection is the
toughest and
lightest wheelie
cases in the range.
285. samsonite.co.uk
These wireless buds

feature the worlds
rst in-ear biometric
heart-rate monitor.
The apps audio coach
analyses your tness
levels and monitors your
pace. 200. jabra.co.uk
Bushnell Tour V4
rangender
Not only is Bushnells
latest Tour rangender
faster to focus and more
ergonomic than the old
version, it is also
30 per cent smaller.
269. bushnellgolf.eu/uk
Copper Skin:Z
Pack a little performance
sportswear when you
travel. This compression
range from Trion:Z is
embedded with copper
bres to help circulation
and aid post-workout
recovery.
From 25. trionz.co.uk
SEX
The sound
and the fury
Careful whispers:
Talking dirty to
someone tonal
can be anything
from intimate to
electrifying
Fifty Shades Of Grey was responsible for many things. One

of the more inviting is the rise in erotic audio. Indulging
in everything from fantasy audiobooks, to SoundCloud
playlists and sound-only YouTube channels, a world of
new male and female listeners are getting into aural sex.
JuicyPeach (juicypeachaudioerotica.com) is a slim, browneyed 34-year-old whose lilting Dublin/South African voice
has commanded more than a million hits. She is one of the
more elegant examples, but even your hard-bitten reporter nds her pace, her descriptions, heck her whole narrative arc, mesmeric. While Hung College Stud Giving
Milf Anal boasts 57,000 hits, and Young Texas Couple
Birthday F*** more than 110,000, there is little subtlety
in these straight-up sex soundtracks.
Juicy, or Yael, is a photographer, viz the alluring buttock
pictures on her site. Though my professional world relies
on visuals, my personal preference sexually is more aural,
she says. Creating an erotic recording seemed sexy and
fun to try. Within a week of releasing my rst tape a
very sensual, whispered audio of me waking up my lover
with oral pleasure I had 200 emails applauding me. It is a
growing culture. A lot of people I hear from are not turned
on by visual porn.
Perhaps it was inevitable that blue audio would be the
next, um, big thing: in the past ve years, nearly 40 million
romance and erotic books, worth 178 million, were sold
in Britain alone. Many more were read on discreet Kindle
and smartphone formats. Streaming them is therefore not a
huge jump. Though it may be that the popularity of spoken
word events such as Pin Drop (the reading of short stories)
and poetry (for example the giddy ascent of Mercury Prizenominated poet Kate Tempest) has further primed the way.
As an industry we follow what happens in print, says
Michele Cobb, of audiobook erotica imprint Insatiable
Press. There was some before Fifty Shades, but the success
of that pushed things to a different level.
Audible, the audiobook behemoth now owned by Amazon,
hired Susie Bright as editor-at-large and executive producer
overseeing erotic content: she is an outspoken sexpert
who has run sex shops, sex magazines, and has a weekly
sex-based podcast, In Bed With Susie Bright. She xed deals
with x-rated publisher Elloras Cave and romance publisher
Harlequin, whose stable includes Mills & Boon.
The most popular types vary, says Cobb. We do lots of
Westerns: everyone loves a cowboy, especially in the States.
According to Troy Juliar, the chief content ofcer of
the global audio publisher recordedbooks.com, there is
Photographs Trunk Archive; Getty Images
From red-hot podcasts to fantasy

audiobooks, aural sex is the erotica
trend to tune your ears in to
LIFE
marketing wisdom in not selling things as
naughty, per se. Most romance authors would
not call themselves erotica authors, even
though many romantic subgenres contain
erotica-type writing, he explains. Actually,
it is a sure-re way to limit your sales. Smart
authors sneak in the erotic content under
romance or fantasy. Hits in the paranormal genre the Sookie Stackhouse books by
Charlaine Harris (which was adapted into HBOs
True Blood) contain a fair amount of sex as
part of the storyline. Fans love it. The sexual
tension is often central to advancing the story
and integral to the plot.
So, who is tuning in? Youd be surprised,
continues Juliar. We know, for example, that
a signicant percentage of listeners of gay
romance are straight women.
Christopher Lynch, vice president of Simon &
Schuster Audio, has acknowledged that one of
the reasons for investing in erotic romance is
that it tends to be popular among that desirable consumer group, women in their twenties.
Beyond the world of spoken word lies the
hinterland of Autonomous Sensory Meridian
Response (ASMR). I rst heard about ASMR
in a This American Life podcast by novelist
Andrea Seigel. Id get this tingling throughout my skull, she recounts. I know how weird
that sounds. It was like starbursts in my head
that opened in my crown and sparkled down
to the nape, like glittering water...
Referred to as Head Tingle or Brain
Orgasm, ASMR has only been investigated in

are talking with each other, following the same
pace, you will come to be incredibly close. The
the last few years. Giulia Poerio is a member of
modern world makes constant demands on
a group who are studying it at the University
our senses. Having someone give you their
of Shefeld. She resists the notion of ASMR
undivided attention, especially if they speak
being precisely sexual: Id describe it as a
quietly so you have to lean in, fosters wontingling sensation that spreads down through
derful intimacy. It is easy to focus on the body:
you, a physical response to sounds such as
sex should involve both mind and soul.
whispering, scratching, whistling and
Many women, including myself,
so on. Ive had it for as long as I
are distinctly tonal, agrees
can remember. The feeling isnt
Tantric coach Elena Angel.
sexual. It is relaxed.
This means hearing is their
Poerio refers me to YouTube,
dominant sense; the right
where I watch the 16-minute,
sounds can be electrifyOh Such A Good 3D-Sound
The percentage of women who
told a recent survey* that talking
ing, connecting you to your
ASMR Video. It is recorded
dirty was the best way to
partner and building exciteby GentleWhispering, a widespice up their sex life and
ment
and pleasure.
eyed, 28-year-old Russian
keep it exciting with
Moreover, you can use your
expat named Maria, and has been
their partner.
voice to enact any kind of fantasy.
played some 15 million times. She
Take her on a journey of the imaginawhispers lovingly into twin camera mics
tion, Angel continues. A spoken escapade,
and, for example, runs her nails across the briswhich doesnt require Kylie Jenner or Ryan
tles of her wonder hairbrush. I listen, ready
Gosling. Or a narrative which may just happen
for rapture. Instead I nd it merely annoying.
However, if the feeling ASMR prompts is
to embrace those surprising little things youd
about presence, about falling into your body,
like her to do to you, or perhaps cast you both
it seems to me mighty similar to the effects
in specically mischievous personas.
Women have tremendous neuroplasticity,
inspired by Tantra both as a precursor to,
and a marvellous part of, centred and deeply
continues Dubberly. If you talk to her in a
satisfying love-making.
way that lets her understand your desires,
A key Tantra technique is to co-ordinate
theres a strong chance that shell be up for
breathing between lovers, says Emily
them, too. Well-primed, female brains can be
willing to explore a fabulous range of things.
Dubberley, author of Garden Of Desires: The
Evolution Of Womens Sexual Fantasies. If you
Rebecca Newman
32%
RAPPERS DELIGHT
* Trojan Sex Life Survey. vixely.com
What Kanye West calls pillow talk

THERES a lot to learn when Kanye West releases an album. The Life Of
Pablo dropped earlier this year and the world apparently stopped, listened,
and then tweeted. Sure, many of us are intrigued by his meltdowns, his wife,
the way hes seemingly won round the fashion industry despite peddling
jumpers that look moth-eaten, but its his lyrics that should really be our
focus. Its the lyrics that appear to win him millions of admirers people
who rap along at his concerts, people willing to shell out hundreds
onashoe that looks like a sock. But The Life Of Pablo is also about sex.
On Twitter, West (right) dubbed the record a gospel album. This from
the manwho penned the lyric, Now if I f*** this model. And she
just bleached her asshole. And I get bleach on my T-shirt.
Imma feel like an asshole.
Touching. The record was a festival of semi-erotic,
semi-amusing rhymes, each odder and more suggestive/
offensive than the last. Note also his multi-opprobrious,
Eating Asian pussy, all I need was sweet and sour
sauce. Much was also made of one particular
sexual shout out, his nod to Taylor Swift and
their once highly publicised spat. I feel like
meand Taylor might still have sex. I made that
bitch famous. Oh Kanye. Yes this is an album
about sex and power and sex as power.
Many of us have admired the hip hop
fraternity for their boasts and digs, but their
lyrical eroticism? Less so, perhaps, despite
metaphorical swimming pools full of naked video girls.
So West and his cohorts appear to be lling a void. The great Casanovas of
today arent the pop bands and indie poets. Theres no condent speeches
there no explicit content, no wordplay as foreplay. Theres barely even any
genuine romance. So Kanye, Jay Z, Young Thug, Drake and Lil Wayne
reference sex like nobody else: with passion, force and unbridled mania.
Spoken word porn: its a real thing. Im thinking about J. Coles Dick so
bigits like a foot is in yo mouth, on Jeremihs Planes. Childish
Gambinos Freaks And Geeks is equally poetic: Fly girl on her
knees, she dont wanna come near me. My dick is too big, theres
a Big Bang Theory. Another master of word-wood is Lil Wayne.
On Drakes HYFR he raps: My nuts hang like aint no curfew.
Bitch if you wave, then I will surf you. And if those arent
reductive enough, how about Young Thugs description of
abashful partner, recoiling from his bad boy ways on
Never Had It: She runnin away from my weed like it
farted. She dont want to swallow so I put it on her neck.
Forget romance, this is music for the generation who order
apartner with the same ease as a take-out meal. Its universally
physical boobs, dicks, backsides, legs, hands, pussies. Note
Kendrick Lamar in Backseat Freestyle: And her body got that ass
that a ruler couldnt measure, and it make me cum fast but I never
get embarrassed. Or Kanyes Your titties, let em out, free at last.
Thank God almighty, they free at last. Observe how hes sticking
tothe gospel tone. Less so here: Black girl sippin white wine. Put
myst in her like a civil rights sign, from Im In It.
Sweet nothings indeed. Lou Stoppard
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INVENTORS AND ENTREPRENEURS DEFINING THE FUTURE,
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LIFE
PERSONAL TRAINER: #8 CLIMBING
With a
combination
of strength,
endurance, power,
agility, exibility
and core strength,
climbing requires an
all-body conditioning
routine. Weve put
together three moves
that will build upperbody strength and
endurance (especially in the
arms and ngers for keeping
grip on hand holds), lower-body
power and core strength to boost
your current gym programme. This
will propel you to new heights.
Peak performance
The plan
Exercise 1
Deadlifts
Pull-ups build
strength and
endurance in
theupper body.
Deadlifts are a
great whole-body
strength exercise
that builds
powerful legs.
With feet shoulder
distance apart,
toes just under
the bar, squat
toparallel and
take an overhand
grip just wider
than shoulder
width. Keep your
back at and
chest lifted as
you drive through
your heels and
hips to lift the
bartostanding.
Keep the
bar closeto
your body as
youreturn to
startposition.
Move 1 Start
with arms straight,
hands shoulderdistance apart.
Pull-up halfway
seven times.
Photograph Ben Riggott Model Alex Nicholl at W Model
Management Grooming Chloe Botting using Kiehls
Exercise 2
Pull ups
Move 2 From
halfway, pull-up to
touch chest to bar
seven times.
Move 3 Lower
down all the way
to arms straight
for seven full reps.
Rest for two to
three minutes.
To nish off, pull
yourself back up
to chest touching
the bar, hold
foras long
aspossible.
Perform 4 sets
of8 reps.
Exercise 3
Full sit-up
into high
plank with
knee to
elbow
Perform a full
sit-up pressing
lower back to
oor as you curl
up. At thetop of
sit-up turn to right
side and get into
press-up position.
Bring left knee
high to touch left
elbow. Reverse
allmovements
and return to
startposition.
Perform 20
repetitions
alternating
For
sides.
moreinformation
visit: jonathan
goodair.com,
homehouse.co.uk
BEAR GRYLLS: #16 BULLYING
whats the best way to deal with

the bullies we encounter there?
The tactics of the workplace
bully are often the same as those
of the playground bully, just in a
different arena. It is about fear
and control. But they can be dealt
with in similar ways. I have three
young boys, and I always tell
them that the worst thing to do
is to run away from the bully, just
like we shouldnt run away from
our fears. If we do, the bullying,
like our fears, tends to increase.
So, whether theyre facing physiSupport team: Bear Grylls
cal, emotional or verbal bullying
and the contestants of
(the latter two are always harder)
Chinas Survivor Games
I tell my children to turn and face
the bully, and in a strong, positive voice say this: Stop. Thats not nice. No one likes a
bully. When this is all said, then they can turn and walk
away. On their own terms.
This achieves several results. Firstly, when you say
Stop, it shows youre not prepared to put up with the
bullying. There will often be a show of force back, but
hold rm. Bullies are cowards, and this positive reaction from you will be a shock, but you have to hold your
ground when they laugh and get angry in response.
Secondly, when you say words to the effect of, Thats
not nice, no one likes a bully, its a statement of truth,
showing that you and others are aware that this is not
good, pleasant, positive behaviour to be subjected to.
Finally, once youve made these points, then you can
clear out and give the bully some space to think about
what youve communicated and how theyve acted.
Hopefully the bullying will then stop. If it doesnt, then
report it and dont wait. As I tell my children, theres a
difference between reporting a bully which is simply
the right thing to do, protecting yourself and protecting
others and being a sneak. When it comes to bullying, there is no such thing as a sneak.
All this transfers directly to adult environments.
We can even use the same words I give my children.
Fundamentally, it boils down to two main strategies:
confront the bully calmly, positively and rationally, give
them a chance to stop, and if they dont, report it fast.
If you can nd the courage to do all this, I can assure
you, others will thank you. I have seen this happen often.
The impact of bullying is to make people hide away, but
when light is shined into darkness, they begin to resurface and are invariably grateful.
You wont win every battle out there, but Im a big
believer that what goes around comes around. Bullies
always get their comeuppance in the end. And as long as
you hold to your principles, stand up for what is right and
protect the vulnerable, you will thrive in the long term.
Two words from St Paul always stick in my mind when
I think about this subject: Love protects. Those two
simple words can dramatically inuence our relationships
at work, with our family and with our children. And they
certainly apply when it comes to standing up to bullies.
A Survival Guide For Life (Corgi, 7.99) by Bear Grylls
is out now.
Bullies can appear everywhere

from the playground to the
boardroom. Show them whos
boss to break their powers
NO one likes a bully. But, sadly, bullying is a reality that
most of us, from time to time, will encounter in life. This
is not a column about why people become bullies. It is
about how to deal with them. First up, I believe that
bullies are essentially cowards. And that knowledge
helps us when it comes to knowing how to handle them.
As a child, I was on the wrong end of some bullying.
Nothing very serious but enough to scare me as a 13-yearold, especially when the bully was ve years older. He was
much stronger than me physically, and whenever he was
high on glue or some equivalent, I would bear the brunt
of his violence. His thumpings became an all too common
horror. My way of dealing with it at the time wasnt a
perfect solution, although it worked. I took up karate
(eventually becoming one of the youngest second dan
black belts in the country), and I learnt to defend myself.
Im not saying this was the correct way to deal with it,
but the bullying stopped soon after. I was one of the lucky
ones. In retrospect I should have told someone in authority straightaway, but sometimes that requires much more
courage. It was courage I didnt have as a child.
Thats why, as an adult, bullying is something Im very
alert to. On occasions, Ive witnessed some unpleasant
bullying in the media world. And it is cruel, ugly and
hurtful. When I see it, I come down on it very hard.
Obviously, I cant rely on martial arts at work, though, so
The worst
thing to do
is to run
away from
a bully,
just like we
shouldnt
run away
from our
fears
Photographs Ben Simms; Steve Neaves
How to stand
up foryourself
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Now heres what you call

an American dream: in one
short year James Corden
reinvented a US institution
and with his new-media
juggernaut Carpool Karaoke
left his late-night chat
show rivals in the slow
lane.With a private jet on
standby and a direct line to
superstars, tech titans and
presidents, High Wycombes
wisecracking wonderboy
islaughing his way into
prime-times royal family. GQ
joins him in the green room...
KING JAMES
STORY BY
Jonathan Heaf
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
STYLING BY
194
GQ.CO.UK SEPTEMBER 2016
Sebastian Faena
Michael Fisher
JAMES CORDEN
Listen, if we
made this show
for Saturday
night on ITV,
people would
have destroyed it
Jacket, 995, Shirt,

250, Tie, 115, All by
Burberry. burberry.
com. Pocket square
byPolo Ralph Lauren,
62. ralphlauren.co.uk.
Tie clip by The Tie Bar,
11. thetiebar.com.
Watch by Blancpain,
13,080. blancpain.com
n the space of three minutes, late latenight chat show host James Corden has
dropped his trousers twice for late-night
chat show host Stephen Colbert. First so
that a sound gopher can thread a radio
mic under Cordens billowing white shirt and
the second time so Cordens dresser can apply
a little resourceful style triage tit tape to an
inch-long tear along the seam of a suit trouser
leg. The things I have to do for America,
Corden tuts wryly to everyone yet no one in
particular. Im such a irt.
The green room for The Late Show With
Stephen Colbert in New Yorks Ed Sullivan
Theater cant have changed since The Beatles
were introduced to America here one fine
day in 1964. While Corden waits patiently
with his trousers round his ankles, the rest
of the British stars press squad groomer,
PA, stylist, publicist utter from leather
sofa to Formica sideboard, eating roomtemperature sushi, charging iPhones and
discussing whether or not Tom Hiddleston
will be the next James Bond.
Discounting Cordens own show The Late
Late Show With James Corden, now 18 months
in and, with four Emmy nominations, doing
nothing but winning this audience with
Stephen Colbert is the rst of a raft of television appearances this week for the Gavin
& Stacey star. Although Cordens own show
lms out of Los Angeles, the British host is in
New York to rehearse, promote and present
the biggest night in American theatre, the
70th Annual Tony Awards or, as Corden will
describe them while compering this Sunday,
the Oscars, but with diversity.
Todays show is Colberts rst since having
ten days off. As Corden gets dressed, bemoaning his outt Why do I have to wear a suit?
Im not going to a funeral, I dont work in a
bank and Im not an estate agent Colbert
bounds in, grins with teeth as white as an ice
rink and grips hands with the entire room.
Colbert asks his British guest how rehearsals
are going; Corden in return asks what Colbert
did with his holiday. I went a-shin, the
American host barks. Just me and a good
pal. We caught trout and ladysh, fell asleep
at nine every night in front of the television.
No women allowed. Good times!
Colberts show can be broken down into six
main parts: a video skit recorded earlier in the
day; an opening monologue (peppered with
Trump gags); then a satellite link with Colberts
rst guest, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, a 69-year-old
retired basketball star who has been booked to
talk about the death of Muhammad Ali. (Mike
Tyson cancelled an hour earlier, apparently.)
Then Corden is beckoned out, joining Colbert
live at the desk to talk about his new Carpool
Karaoke due to drop tonight and featuring
the star and creator of Broadway spectacular
Hamilton, Lin-Manuel Miranda. Once Corden

is off camera, Colbert welcomes a nal guest
actor Scott Speedman (no, us neither) and
the show closes with a performance by Death
Cab For Cutie, who are essentially Keane from
Washington without any tunes.
Watching backstage on a jumbo screen,
either its my jet lag or Colberts show has
a serious problem. The format seems trite
and dated. The audience might be laughing, but no one in the green room so much as
titters. Having sat and watched Cordens show
numerous times this past week, its clear how
different the two shows are and that ranges
from vibe to guest type to comedic tone.
While Colberts show feels like, well, a television show arid, canned, rehearsed Corden
has gone out of his way to make his show feel
more like a club, more intimate, more spontaneous, more live. Whereas Colberts guests are
wheeled out individually to sit on the hosts
right side a long tradition on American chat
shows Cordens guests come out together and
sit bunched up on his left on a too-small sofa
that seems to encourage chaos. On Colbert,
the studio audience are kept at least 20 feet
Everyone
famouschases
that first weekend
when fame hits.
That first whoosh
back from the action, whereas Cordens audience members can sit and drink tumblers of
Old Fashioneds at a long working bar or take
it easy in comfy seats, the likes of which you
nd in posh cinemas with chilled glasses of
Sancerre and ceramic bowls of yoghurt-coated
wasabi peas. Cordens set in LA is less television studio, more Soho House.
The only section that does seem to build any
momentum for Colbert this afternoon is when
Corden himself is on. As Corden and Colbert go
head-to-head, despite Corden being the rookie
host, its woefully clear who is most at ease
with the desk-to-famous-guest format. Being
a successful late-night chat show host takes big
personalities, killer skits and oodles of charm
something Corden seems to run on whereas
the cynic in Colbert just cant be kept in check.
Cynicism works for Colbert when discussing politics as it did on his former show, The
Colbert Report on Comedy Central but when
hes faced with having to essentially make small
talk with a celebrity he seems to lose the nimbleness that made him feel so maverick, so vital.
On air, when Colbert drops his pen by way of
ribbing Corden over his casual name-dropping,
Corden punches gently but effectively back:
Well, shall we tell them [the audience] who

you went shing with last week? Watching,
you can see Colbert wondering where Corden
is going with this. Yet Corden, the Brit, the
interloper, the underdog, the accomplished
thesp with an instinct for live performance and
improvisation like no other in the business, can
sense the crowd is with him.
Shall we tell them you went shing with
Martin Scorsese last week? Although untrue,
anyone watching at home or in the studio
is none the wiser and the crowd roars with
laughter. Colbert is left ummoxed: You cant
take my story and make it better! The comment
doesnt come across as a little light banter
so much as utter indignation that this limey
upstart had just slain him on his own show.
This scene, played out in front of millions
that evening, brings into sharp focus just
how lit Cordens career currently is over in
America. Earlier that day, serial provocateur
Howard Stern made it even clearer when
Corden appeared on his early morning breakfast show. So, James, Stern growled, when
are you going to take over The Late Show
from Colbert? Of course, Corden made all
the right noises, deecting even the idea as
preposterous. Thats never going to happen,
he said, not least because they share the same
boss, Les Moonves of CBS.
Still, the very idea that this question might
be asked, that James Corden gobby little
Smithy from Gavin & Stacey, the fat kid from
High Wycombe who made us all chuckle in
The History Boys, the man who famously got
turned down by Lily Allen, who weathered the
hate of a nation after cutting Adeles acceptance speech short at the Brit Awards in 2013,
the man in part responsible for a lm called
Lesbian Vampire Killers could take over from
Stephen Colbert, a titan of American broadcasting who replaced chat show founding
father David Letterman and only ve years
ago got nearly 300,000 Americans to march on
Washington, is nothing short of astonishing.
You could call it a miracle. But then miracles tend to run on fairy dust and serendipity.
Nothing that has happened to James Corden
over the past 18 months has been an accident.
ey, James, my man! I love the

show. Can I get a picture? Its
early evening, Colbert is taped
and Corden and I are walking
down Madison Avenue to
Barneys, trying to nd a pair of designer trainers for his assistant, Charlie, who turns 27
tomorrow. Were stopped every half block by
fans. They bolt out of diners to shake his hand,
yell out of truck windows, even jaywalk across
blaring New York trafc to pay their respects.
Its actually sort of cool, Corden quips, mid
signature, post sele. That didnt sound
JAMES CORDEN
Suit by Tom Ford,
2,950. At Harrods.
harrods.com. Shirt by
Eton, 140. Cufflinks
byHugo Boss, 70.
Bothat Harvey Nichols.
harveynichols.com. Tie,
25. Tieclip, 10. Both by
TheTieBar. thetiebar.
com. Watch by Cartier,
6,500. cartier.com.
Pocket square by Polo
Ralph Lauren, 62.
ralphlauren.co.uk
quite right. Listen, in LA, where we lm,

no one walks anywhere. If you walk in Los
Angeles people stop you and ask if everything is OK, with a concerned look on their
face. I leave the house, drive to the studio, lm
the show, get back in my car and go to bed.
Yesterday I was walking to Central Park with
my kids from the hotel and a taxi stops right in
front of me. A man gets out, shakes my hand
and then jumps back in the cab to carry on
with his day. Thats the rst time Ive worried
a little bit about what precisely my eldest son
thinks is going on here. He asked me, Daddy,
why is that man staring at you? I havent
really got a good answer gured out yet.
Does Corden not consider himself famous
enough? I honestly dont think like that. Im
not totally oblivious to it either, no one is. Its
nice being famous. I always wanted to be a big
star. I dont care if youre Leonardo DiCaprio
or Prince, everyone who is famous chases
that rst weekend when fame hits. That rst
whoosh. DiCaprio is always a bit of a weird
one for me though. Why does a 40-year-old
Sending the Late Late host a mean tweet? No.

Kanye has been booked to do Carpool Karaoke
now twice and both times something came up.
Hell do it eventually. He wants to do it. What
did Kanye give Corden the second time he
cancelled? About three dozen white roses, of
course. Arranged in the shape of a cube. What
could be more Kanye than that?
Back at Cordens New York base camp for the
week, The Mark hotel, he runs upstairs to kiss
his wife and two children goodnight before we
nd a quiet table in the Jean-Georges restaurant to talk. Its a warm Manhattan evening and
we contemplate sitting outside, though Corden
notices several of the hotels Upper East Side
clientele smoking and decides against it.
How clean and serene is Corden now hes
been living in LA for the best part of a year and
a half? I eat a bit of kale, he admits, ordering black coffee over ice. I drink a juice called
50 Shades Of Green, which is 50 vegetables in
one glass. Its f***ing disgusting. Never try it.
Hes lost a great deal of weight, I comment. I
lost 70lbs. I want to lose another 30lb, maybe
referring either to the creation of the Carpool

skit or, indeed, the production of Late Late in
its entirety. Although routinely offering heavy
credit to both the shows team of writers and
his diligent studio crew, the we Corden refers
to is, more often than not, a British man called
Ben Winston.
Winston, 34, is the son of mustachioed
TV scientist Lord Robert Winston. To call
Winston Cordens creative ally is to underplay just how crucial his role has been to the
hosts stateside success story. Winston is the
showrunner the only Brit named on The
Hollywood Reporters 2015 Next Gen UpAnd-Coming Execs list and is part of Londonbased production company Fulwell 73, which
together with CBS co-produce the Late Late
Show and Carpool. Winston landed his job
shortly after Corden arrived, impressing CBS
bosses with his drive to shake up a format that,
you could argue, had remained unchanged in
the States for decades. We went in fearlessly,
Winston tells me. James and I had no inhibitions as we felt like we had nothing to lose.
Auto tune: Among the triple-A-list global superstars to ride shotgun in James Cordens pandemic-level viral hit skit, Carpool Karaoke, watched hundreds of
man want to hang about with so many bros?

If I only ever hung out with Jack [Whitehall],
Freddie [Flintoff] and Dominic [Cooper] for the
rest of my life, wouldnt you think that was a
bit f***ing weird?
ordens trainer-shaped white whale
is by Tom Ford: Barneys are sold
out and Fords flagship store is
already closed. More to the point,
he has no idea what size shoe his
assistant is. Corden makes a call: Hi, Charlie!
Quick question. This has nothing to do with
your birthday tomorrow by the way but what
size shoe are you? Corden settles on a pair of
black and red leather Saint Laurent high-tops,
$750 plus tax. Top boss behaviour.
Walking out of the department store I notice
a display of Kanye West-created Yeezy Boost
350s. I remember Corden had on a pair back
at the Ed Sullivan Theater and I mention how
sought-after they are in the UK. Given to me
by the man himself, Corden admits of his own
pair. They were sort of an apology. For what?
two stone by the time Im 40. I want to peak

emotionally and physically at 40 thats two
years away.
I do a dance class three times a week,
something called PlyoJam its dance using
plyometrics. It sounds like it could have been
a Horne & Corden sketch, I tell him. Basically
its jumping jacks and skipping to music. I asked
Anthony Joshua [British heavyweight boxing
champion] what the best exercise for me to do
was and he replied, The exercise you will do.
So Im a PlyoJam guy. Who knew, right? I had
a personal trainer called Helmut for a while but
it was too easy to break. Helmut had to go.
Be it Helmut, Anthony Joshua, Kanye West,
an embattled Stephen Colbert or the man in the
street with a Sharpie, the one thing everyone
wants to ask James Corden about is Carpool
Karaoke. We couldnt get anyone to do it,
Corden admits of the idea when they began
pitching it months before his rst broadcast
in early 2015. Name someone in the music
industry and they had said no.
Corden will say we a great deal when
Winston and Corden met on the set of a

Channel 4 comedy-drama called Teachers in
Bristol 16 years ago. Corden, whose career
was yet to take ight, had a small part while
Winston had been offered work experience
helping out as a PA. We recognised a huge
ambition within each other, Winston conrms
about the pairs working partnership. Winston
is out in New York with Corden all this week,
not only helping produce the Tony Awards,
but also ensuring the show back in LA is kept
bubbling, ready for when the pair return via
private jet this coming Monday morning. I
think we both knew how far we hoped to make
it in the business.
Winston founded Fulwell 73 in 2005 with
brothers Gabe and Ben Turner together with
their cousin Leo Pearlman. They refer to Corden
as their silent fth member and an interest in
sport, specically football, seems to be the glue
that binds all partners and a great deal of their
early work. (The company itself is named after
part of Sunderland football clubs old stadium
and the year the team won the FA Cup.)
JAMES CORDEN
Fulwells formation can be traced back to
a documentary called In The Hands Of The
Gods, an idea that saw a camera crew follow
ve young freestyle footballers as they busked
their way to meet their hero, Diego Maradona.
Although they had no previous experience
aside from a stint making a phone-in show that
aired on the dustier end of the cable listings
Winston and his co-producers took a leap,
scraped together funding and ended up with
200 hours of raw footage. The resulting lm
was edited in Ben Turners bedroom. Having
somehow bagged a sales agent, they found
themselves in Cannes on the Croissette signing
a deal with Lionsgate. Six months later the
Fulwell team were stood in Leicester Square
in front of the Odeon cinema for the movies
premiere with well, why not an AstroTurf
green carpet.
Winston kept in contact with Corden
throughout, and although they often talked
at length about working together it wasnt
until 2009, for Comic Relief, that the pair rst
collaborated. That sketch, made with the England
barnstorming success. He has not failed. For

Winston, this means plate spinning in extremis,
keeping Corden front and centre while bringing
the chat show format to life with scripts, songs
and comedic set pieces whether Carpool
(celebrities singing), Role Call (celebrities doing
charades) or latest spot Drop The Mic (celebrities rap battling) that will guarantee the show
lives on far beyond the borders and viewing
gures of its 12.35am (PST) time slot on CBS.
As of last month, Late Late has been available
on Sky in the UK
The original idea for Carpool was something
that Corden did with George Michael back in
2011 for Comic Relief. The skit saw Corden
(as Smithy again) being asked by comedian
Lenny Henry to help out with the charitys
cause. It worked with George, explains
Corden, so we perused it for the show, but
wed almost given up on the idea. No one
wanted to be the guinea pig and go rst.
It took a chance meeting with a representative from Mariah Careys record company, only
weeks before their rst show aired, to kick-
George Clooney is moderate-looking. Thus, Late

Late has aired 22 separate Carpools, with everyone from Selena Gomez and Justin Bieber,
to Stevie Wonder and Chris Martin. Corden is
candid about who his dream Carpool would be
with: Beyonc. It would break the internet.
Shes on tour right now. Were working on it.
And with Michelle Obama having just taped her
Carpool, could Barack be next? Corden keeps
his cool. We have a regular dialogue with the
White House. Now, its not so much a matter
of who they can get to say yes, but who they
have to reluctantly say no to.
arpool Karaoke is not only revolutionising the way talk shows

are being structured both in
the States and elsewhere but
its also revolutionising the way
television (and music) is being made, consumed and shared on a global scale. Just as
streaming services such as Spotify have disrupted the music business and Uber has ipped
the global taxi industry on its head, so Carpool
millions of times, are (from left) Gwen Stefani, George Clooney and Julia Roberts; Adele; Chris Martin; Justin Bieber; Jennifer Lopez; and Stevie Wonder
Kanye will do Carpool Karaoke eventually. He wants to do it

football team, showed Corden as Smithy,
offering the likes of David Beckham, Rio
Ferdinand and John Terry some sound(ish)
advice on how to win football matches. The
sketch was a smash going viral before the
term even really existed. From here, Corden and
Winston landed a series with ITV, James Cordens
World Cup Live, and began working together on
numerous television and commercial projects.
Meanwhile, Fulwells clientele blossomed,
with productions completed for One Direction
(not least their feature lm, which grossed $70
million globally), Olly Murs, David Beckham,
Rimmel, Samsung, Sony and Marks & Spencer.
Summer 2016 will see the release of Fulwells
next documentary feature, I Am Bolt, a yon-the-wall about Usain Bolts injury-hit
preparations for the Rio Olympics.
Since January 2015, however, Winstons
job has been to work alongside Corden in Los
Angeles and to ensure Late Late becomes a
start the in-car-sing-along revolution. Mariah

said yes, although to be fair Im not sure she
was totally convinced about what was going
on, admits Corden.
If you go back and watch that rst Carpool
Karaoke, Corden looks, at best, nervous
(although that might have something to do
with his west coast glow not having quite come
through yet) and Carey looks more than a
little bewildered a supernova diva in a babyblue leather jacket and, oddly, a pair of black
cutoff biker gloves. At rst, Carey is hesitant
to sing even a single note Im not singing
today. I was up all night but as the rst few
bars of her single Always Be My Baby come
over the car stereo, the eight-octave multiplatinum-selling artist just cant help herself.
As Carey starts warbling, the grin on Cordens
face is one of unquestionable relief.
Today, to say Carpool is a success is like
saying The Beatles were quite a good band. Or
Karaoke is indicative of how, with the right

idea, television can be combined with a streaming channel such as YouTube and go from
something that traditionally would air only
once, becoming little more than a water-cooler
moment the next day, to a format that simply
wont stop giving and that goes for viewing
gures and revenue.
CBS and Fulwell are already looking to cash
in. In May this year, the co-production partners made the all-singing segment available as
a format for international networks in 30 to 60
minute episodes, similar to the Carpool primetime special that aired in March with Corden
and Jennifer Lopez. With more than 750 million
views already on the Carpool YouTube channel,
you can almost hear the ker-ching! from
Fulwells ofces in Camden.
Far and away the shows most successful karaoke video is with Adele. At the time
of writing, its been viewed more than
114 million times. Thats only 10 million

short of the entire population of Japan. For
something with such a heavy cultural footprint, the term going viral no longer seems
immense enough. Grumpy Cat videos go viral.
Game Of Thrones memes go viral. Carpool
Karaoke goes pandemic.
If you want to gauge how big a deal Cordens
format has become for the industry over on
the west coast, ask him who he and Winston
had dinner with a couple of weeks ago. Jony
Ive, Tim Cook and Jimmy Iovine. In other
words, Apples top-table consiglieri. (Or a trio
of solid gold, billionaire cultural ballers.) It
was just a dinner, Corden humblebrags. Its
just interesting to see how weve caught peoples interest. I mean Carpool, if you think
about it, is an amazing way of marketing and
selling music on peoples phones. So I dont
know where that leads. I have no idea. But its
an interesting space within which to operate.
James Corden, tech unicorn? I wouldnt scoff
just yet. Corden himself, although forever selfdeprecating, is fully aware of all the noise.
Once a new Carpool goes online, as it will do
tonight, prerecorded a couple of weeks ago, he
and Winston forensically monitor the YouTube
viewing numbers and subscribers.
We have an inside man at YouTube who tells
us the real-time gures before they clock up
online, Corden admits. And when you see a
video catch re, its madness. We always set
out to make the most relevant show possible.
So whether with Carpool or the lm spoof we
made of Beyoncs Lemonade which was up
and online within a matter of hours after she
dropped her album we have to react fast.
Does Corden, as many critics have been
saying, feel hes changed late-night television
forever? Listen, David Letterman used to do
sketches that, had the internet been around
back then, would have had a similar impact.
Jimmy Fallon does great set pieces. I would say
that is very attering but not necessarily true.
We have had a great start but now its all ours
to lose, frankly. The bar is now very high, as
I said to a few people on the show the other
day. Remember we went from zero when we
started 18 months ago. I didnt buy any furniture for my house in LA, as I thought wed
all be going home in six months.
So in an alternate reality, if that Colbert job
did come up? I have three-and-a-half years
on my ve-year contract. I cant see myself
doing this forever, but who knows? Maybe Ill
go back to the UK and do a little play at the
Southwark Playhouse. That would make me
happy. Happy? Perhaps. But unlikely.
I ask Corden whether he felt much support
from the wider media before his chat show
began? Youre joking arent you? The press
in America was neutral. We had a level playing
eld. It was: Who is this guy? Which was
totally fair. And back in the UK? Corden

prickles. I felt there were only expectations of failure. Really? Yes, really. Listen,
if wed made this show for ITV to air at eight
oclock on Saturday night people would have
destroyed it.
ordens relationship with the British
press is a sticky one. It goes back to
around 2009, when he was falling
out of cabs with Lily Allen and,
by his own admission, spending a little bit too much time in the Groucho
Club, living out of a hotel in Soho, buying
new clothes every day rather than bothering
to go home and hanging out with people that
I hardly knew. He always wanted to be the
centre of attention, to be a big star, and then
suddenly he was writing the follow-up series
to one of the BBCs most acclaimed sitcoms
and had David Beckham on speed dial. James
Corden had become, whisper it, cool.
There were, however, mistakes. Or if not
mistakes then a series of poorly judged, inthe-moment decisions. The brattish comments
he made at the 2008 Bafta awards, the atro-
Its about class.

Acting is becoming
an elitist sport
andI worry where
that leaves us
cious, vulgar hosting of the 2009 Brit Awards
with friend Matthew Horne and the pairs
widely panned sketch show. And then that
awful lm. Speaking to him today in New
York, Corden gets all this: Some of that work
deserved to be panned.
Yet as we talk, one feels Corden cant help
but be somewhat bewildered by how he is
still perceived by some members of the British
press. As he puts it, No one asks Bradley
Cooper about f***ing Aloha since being nominated for an Academy Award. Why is that
period of my life still so much part of my story
for some people? Corden doesnt want to
care. And hell tell you he feels he has nothing
to prove back in Britain. But as much as hed
hate to admit it, it niggles away at him. Deep
down. Like a splinter under his skin that his
body cant quite reject.
In truth, Corden is concerned that some
people, specically some British critics, think
he isnt smart. That hes, well, a bit of lout.
I dont really have any answer for it, he
explains, but its something I have given quite
a lot of thought to. And Ive come to the conclusion that it is about class. Look at my career.
I was in a really good play at the National
Theatre, The History Boys, which then moved to

Broadway and won six Tony awards. We came
back. I wrote a sitcom [Gavin & Stacey] that did
really, really well. I did a couple of lms, got
a play in New York, One Man, Two Guvnors,
and subsequently won every best actor award
going. I shot Into The Woods with Meryl Streep,
wrote another television show [The Wrong
Mans], won the Royal Television Society Writer
Of The Year, got awarded an OBE and launched
a f***ing talk show in America...
Corden is not so much angry as indignant.
And if the rant comes across as bragging,
thats not the vibe at all. Hes just exasperated. I mean, thats quite a lot of good stuff!
Douglas Booth has got a great career, hes a
brilliant actor, but hes never going to encounter the sort of shit like Ive had. Nor will
Tom Hiddleston. Nor Eddie Redmayne. Nor
Benedict Cumberbatch. I fear acting is becoming an elitist sport and I worry about where
that lands us culturally. I really do. Again,
its about class. I think if you are a journalist
that works for the Guardian or the Telegraph,
theres a very strong chance that your drawers
are full of scripts that no one is ever going to
make. And its OK, you can take it from the
good-looking guy from Eton. But then they
see someone like me, talking about football,
and its as if they say, What has he got thats
so special?
Its getting late, for me more than Corden it
must be said. Ask the man whos done a show
such as One Man, Two Guvnors hundreds
of matinee and evening performances backto-back on Broadway whether or not hes
tired and youll get a smile that says, I know
you are. Corden wont fall asleep before 2am
tonight, staying up to watch Twitter ignite
over the Carpool Karaoke with Lin-Manuel
Miranda. Tomorrow morning will see him up at
6am for another round of television interviews,
pressing esh to promote the Tonys, which are
scheduled for ve days time. Then theres the
actual award show to rehearse, next weeks chat
show to prepare, another series of A League Of
Their Own to plan, Hollywood scripts to punch
up, let alone a young family to pay heed to.
What makes James Corden so special? In
his essence, hes a performer: apologetically
egocentric; spectacularly ambitious. As Im
watching Corden from yet another television
green room the following day, however, the Brit
running circles around veteran broadcasters
such as Charlie Rose on their own breakfast
shows, its the writer Stephen King, in town
to promote his new book and sitting next to
me as he waits to go on air, who nails what the
rest of the world must feel after seeing James
Kimberley Corden, 37, from High Wycombe
do his thing, whatever that special thing might
be: Great. And Im supposed to follow that?
Look lively, America. Youre up.
JAMES CORDEN
Suit, 1,080, Shirt,
150.Both by Canali.
canali.com. Tie by
TomFord, 160. At
Harrods. harrods.com.
Pocket square by Eton,
40. AtHarvey Nichols.
harveynichols.com.
Watch by Cartier,
6,500. cartier.com
Photography assistants
Siggy Bodolai and
ButchHogan
Grooming Jason
Schneidman at
SoloArtists
Production
Red Hook Labs
IRINA SHAYK
los angeles, 2015
When Mariano Vivanco caught
sight ofthetextured balconies in
thisabandoned theatre, he was
adamant that he would shoot a
nude. I had to twist Irinas arm a
bit, he says. She was very tired.
But these chances dont happen
every day. I knew that if we shot a
nude here we would never forget
it. Shayks theatrical pose
resonates with the implications of
the location and is inspired by a
photo of Fifties actress Ileana
Simova. I realised when I was
editing it that its the same pose.
That lm [Umberto D] is always in
the back of my mind.
PORTFOLIO
SCENES of
t h e FLESH
Power, elegance and sensuality radiate from the photography
of Mariano Vivanco, the visionary whose cinematic touch
illuminates his subjects be they famous or flora. Now, to
celebrate the publication of Portraits Nudes Flowers, an
intimate exploration of his favourite themes, the photographer
invites GQ for a private view of his most revealing images
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Mariano Vivanco STORY BY Eleanor Halls
ariano Vivanco lowers his

camera to stare appreciatively
at the sculpted form before
him. He smiles, furrows his
brow in concentration and
adjusts his subjects curvaceous form just a
touch to the left. Perfect. He shoots, takes a
step back and shoots some more. The subject,
he says while he works, is remarkable. He
sighs a little and posts a shot to Snapchat so
the world can experience it too.
The subject, it should be pointed out, is the
bottle of water on the table between us.
Thats totally beautiful.
Vivanco has always been a photographer
equipped with extra-sensitive antennae when
it comes to identifying beauty. On this occasion, he will also drink it.
Since picking up his first camera at 16,
the 40-year-old has shot a host of magazine
covers, including several for GQ, published
seven books with Dolce & Gabbana, a book
of black-and-white nudes and a book of
photographs documenting his rst few years
in London. Three of his images are displayed
in the National Portrait Gallery.
This month, he unveils his latest project,
Portraits Nudes Flowers (Damiani, 35), a
collection of memorable photographs that span
his career and explore the similarities between
owers and people.
Vivancos passion for photography stemmed
from his fascination with cinema. Under his
mothers influence, Vivanco developed a
taste for Forties Italian lms, such as Roberto
Rossellinis Rome, Open City. The book Life
Goes To The Movies by Peter Selgin was
Vivancos bible. Now, cinema is the most powerful reference point for his shoots, even if, he
says, most of it is subconscious. Often, he realises he has created a scene lifted from an old
lm Irina Shayks pose on the balcony of an
abandoned theatre was inspired by the actress
Ileana Simova in the 1952 lm Umberto D, but
he only realised this afterwards. When shooting Henry Cavill, he asked him to pretend he
was Marlon Brando in On The Waterfront,
reeling from having just been beaten up.
Art, too, forms another crucial reference
point for Vivanco. Stirred by the Renaissance
in particular, he often pores over works from
Botticelli, Michaelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci
while in Florence. When looking at the shot
of Miranda Kerr, Vivanco realised the shoot
had been inspired by Botticellis The Birth Of
Venus. Enthralled by the sculpted forms of
gods and goddesses in classical art, Vivanco
strives to inject a similar sensuality and power
in his photographs, and nudes in particular.
My job is to skim over society and the
images around me, he says. Not to hold on
to too many cultural references but to take
them all in and have them in a hard drive in
my mind.
Yet, outside inuences were not what led
to Vivancos passion for owers. My photos
of flowers are my emotions recorded in a
digital format, says Vivanco. By which he
means: they remind him of his childhood. The
owers were like a thunderstorm inside my
brain. I was obsessed with them. Often shot
in a soft, hazy focus, the owers in Portraits
Nudes Flowers are paired to the portrait that
he feels reects them in some way: either
JAMIE BELL
London, 2007
The Billy Elliot actor was one of the rst celebrities Vivanco ever shot.Bells
wet nape caught his attention because of its beautiful texture. Itscreamed
for me to take the photo, says Vivanco, who then paired the photoon a
spread with one of a dewy, blood-red rose. The veins on the ower resemble
the little creases in his hair.
through texture, colour or shape. In Vivancos

mind, people, fashion and owers are inextricably entwined.
For the photographer, fashion mirrors the
intricacy of buds and petals. Look at the most
beautiful couture dress, he says, pausing for
dramatic effect. It only tries to be a ower.
Yet to Vivanco, beauty also seeps out from
what has been stripped back to its simplest
form. Strip everything back: strip back the
colour and strip back the clothes, he says,
waving his arms. This explains why he prefers
his sitters nude.
Nudes are pure. They remove much of
the artice. But Vivanco shoots without any
intention of them being erotic. People abuse
sex in imagery. Sensuality does not mean vulgarity. My nudes are statuesque, poetic. The
nudes are all in black and white too. Vivancos
craving to strip colour might stem from his love
of black-and-white lm. Like the purity of the
nude, black-and-white is pure, says Vivanco.
The idea of taking colour away from an object
is very romantic in my opinion.
The book, the proceeds of which are going to
Amantan, a charity for children in Peru the
country where he was born also represents
Vivancos belief in the ongoing power of
print. I love the idea of the boutique and
the exclusive. Id rather publish a book than
whore myself out on social media. Similarly,
Vivanco will always prize photography above
moving lm. A photograph speaks in so many
languages. People can make their own dreams
out of a photograph, because the character is
ethereal, whereas in lm character is imposed.
For me, the photograph will always reign.
EMMA WATSON
London, 2012
Vivanco wanted to capture the two sides to Watsons character: playful
andpensive. I think I prefer the shot of her pensive side, he says. Heloved
shooting the actress with her hair cropped short because of herlikeness to
iconic actress Jean Seberg. That was the rst time I shot her and now
Iveshother twice. I could do a whole book just from those two shoots,
sheunderstands the camera so well.
PORTFOLIO
MIRANDA KERR
miami, 2013
After Vivanco took this shot of
the Victorias Secret model, he
realised he had been thinking of
Botticellis The Birth Of Venus.
That painting is always in my
subconscious, he says. Kerrs
pose reminded him of the
goddesses of Greek mythology,
which have always fascinated
him. Many of my girlstransform
into Venus-like gures. Kerr is
a force of nature.
CANDICE SWANEPOEL
new york, 201 2
Nudes often come about as a result of
long-standing friendships. Vivanco and
supermodel Swanepoel had known each
othera while and so he felt no qualms in
asking her to pose nude at the end of the
dayafter a fashion story. A particular light
had fallen, creating a sense of eeriness,
saysVivanco. I said, Its time, everyone off
set. You could sense the energy mounting.
PORTFOLIO
ISA RAHMAN
los angeles, 2015
Vivanco was drawn to the texture
of the walls, rather than to the
factthat this is where a Britney
Spears music video was shot.
Texture is an important part of
mywork. Anything with texture is
characteristic of my photographs,
he says. Here, Vivanco has also
worked heavily with contrast to
bring out the models skin
against the stark backdrop.
RITA ORA
london, 2013
When Vivanco was shown a particularly risqu piece of vintage clothing more a scarf with
a hole than a top by the stylist before the shoot, he knew he had to photograph Ora in it.
Working with Belle Du Jour as inspiration, in which a bored housewife becomes a daytime
prostitute, Vivanco toyed with the idea that Ora would be playfully teasing her lover.
Maybe shes waiting for her lover to come and surprise her from behind and shes thinking,
Im ready for you, says Vivanco. Every photo has its own little story for you to invent.
PORTFOLIO
CINDY CRAWFORD
los angeles, 2013
Vivanco had always wanted to shoot
the iconic Crawford mole twice in
oneshot by reecting it in a mirror.
Ithought to myself, whyhasnt
anyone ever done that? Despite
everyone advising Cindy to getrid
ofher signature feature at the
startofher career, the model kept it.
Now, it signies her great strength of
character, says Vivanco. The mole
shows how grounded she is.
bitcoin:
the digital currency
now worth over
8bn
and threatening
to do for banks
what Uber did to
cab offices?
Or does he just
really want people
to believe he is
F*** OFF! Either validate or f*** off

right now!
The computer scientist, Craig
Wright, had stood up and was
displaying the universal sign to tell
someone to f*** off (the V), while
also backing this up by repeatedly
shouting it. A broad 45-year-old
Australian man with TV hair, he
wore a boxy, dark-grey business suit,
wide gold tie and red socks that now
matched the colour of his face. He
claimed to be the inventor of bitcoin,
the rst genuinely successful virtual
currency in the world. In total, it is
now worth over $10 billion (8bn),
and he personally possessed a fortune
of more than $672 million of them
assuming his identity wasnt also
virtual. This is what we were here to
conrm. It was not going well.
F*** off!
Until this point, the creator of
bitcoin was known only under the
pseudonym of Satoshi Nakamoto,
ostensibly a 37-year-old male living
in Japan. Perhaps due to that, or
perhaps due to his blog posts, which
were precise, calm and erudite,
Nakamoto was imagined to be a
gentle, even shy, individual. This
was not proving to be the case.
The object of Wrights ire was Dr
Nicolas T Courtois, a French-Polish
expert in cryptology, code-breaking,
virtual currencies and specically
bitcoin, who was sitting to my right.
He was here as GQs expert witness,
having made the short walk from his
ofce at University College London,
where he lectures, to the ofces on
the fourth oor of a narrow building on Tottenham Court Road. A big
man who spoke in halting English,
he wore a smart shirt and boasted
trousers so blue they looked like
they were part of a costume. The
other people in the room were
STORY
BY
Stuart McGurk
Grooming Sara Clark using Dermalogica and MAC
Is this man the

multimillionaire
genius behind
BITCOIN
At one point,
bitcoin became
the most trusted
form of money
in the world
Blazer by Harrods Of London,

599. harrods.com.
Rollneck by John Smedley,
139. johnsmedley.com
PHOTOGRAPH BY
Nick Wilson
kitchen at a tech gathering, putting it to him

that he was both Satoshi
(Im not Satoshi) and a
college professor (And
Im not a college professor). Forbes tracked
early bitcoin coder Hal
Finney down to his
home, only to nd him
incapacitated Finney
had to spend the best
part of a day writing an
email using the movement of his eyeball just
to deny it (I must be
brief...). Newsweek got particularly excited
last year after thinking it had nally cracked it
when it found someone actually called Satoshi
Nakamoto (hooray!) and ran it as a cover story.
It turned out, however, his name was pretty
much the only evidence, and the story was so
widely discredited Newsweek yanked it from
its website.
Wright had been the latest name in the
frame, identied by two parallel stories in
Wired and Gizmodo in December last year,
after a hacker claimed to have retrieved data
from Wrights computer that proved he was
Satoshi and leaked it to them.
The documents including a series of leaked
emails, minutes of meetings and legal documents all clearly pointed to Wright as the
creator of bitcoin.
The Wired story ran with the bet-hedging
headline: Bitcoins Creator Satoshi Nakamoto
Is Probably This Unknown Australian Genius.
Yet only days later they both got cold feet: evidence emerged that some of the material might
have been doctored, more still that some may
be false; even some of his degrees were called
into question. The Australian tax authorities
raided his house.
Soon, a remarkably strange alternative
emerged: either Craig Wright was the
mysterious creator of bitcoin or he was the
perpetrator of an incredibly detailed and elaborate hoax, all desperately aimed at making
people think he was.
The search
for Nakamoto
had become
the digital
ages hunt
for the
white whale
Bitcoin from
the start: From the
creation of the rst bitcoin in 2009, Satoshi
Nakamotos cryptocurrency has been used
to buy everything from pizza to drugs, and
could potentially change the face of
modern banking. Here, a timeline...
9 January 2009
The rst version of
the bitcoin software
goes online, claiming
to allow money to
be paid without
going through a
nancial institution.
Yet I was assured Wright would provide

irrefutable cryptographic proof. So far, this
was not it.
The door swung open again. Wright came
back in the room, sat back down, took a glug
from his water bottle and slammed it down
on the table like he was trying to hammer a
nail. He was breathing heavily. Dr Courtois
attempted to calm the mood.
Im not saying your evidence is invalid, but
its just one thing, Im saying there are other
sorts of evidence that people could ask from
you, because its just one thing...
But it wasnt long until Wright was screaming
again. Their argument was easy to understand
but impossible to follow.
Sentences like Bloody regenerate things
on a single... show me where and There are
f***ing thousands of transactions on bitcoin
every f***ing day signed with pissy f***ing
bloody number generators and If I hear one
more bullshit comment about how I can do it
with unknown nodes, you show me proof or
you f*** off out were common.
Occasionally, it looked dangerously close to
spilling over into physical violence. I dreaded
having to explain it for the police report.
But the gist was clear: in his expert opinion,
Dr Courtois didnt feel Wrights evidence was
conclusive. Wright, in turn, was not pleased
about this.
The other interviews were easy, he
exclaimed at one point. This is bullshit!
It was suggested we move on.
You can validate, added Wright. Or you
can f*** off.
You have to understand, interjected Jon
Matonis, acting as peacemaker. Its taken us
a long, long time for Craig to get to this point,
you know.
The proof session ended without conclusion.
After that, I had an hour alone with Wright. He
calmed. He spoke expansively about bitcoins
creation and the personal cost of it. The wife
who left him, the friends death that made him
quit it in 2011.
If all this was a show, he was a convincing
con man. I left thinking that, despite everything, yes, this could be Satoshi Nakamoto.
22 May 2010
The rst real-world bitcoin
transaction takes place
programmer Laszlo
Hanyecz buys two pizzas
for 10,000 bitcoin. It
becomes known as
bitcoin pizza day.
9 February 2011
Bitcoin reaches
dollar parity.
Value of
one bitcoin
$1
Photograph Mike Lazlo
economist and Bitcoin

Foundation founding
director Jon Matonis, who
was the expert witness
for the PR agency brokering the interview, and its
two representatives, who
were attempting not to
look too panicked.
We we r e b a r e l y
eight minutes in when
Wright took issue with
Dr Courtois suggestion
that his evidence was
not conclusive.
Youve got this one
thing, said Wright. If you dont like it, then
f*** off.
There was an audible groan from the PR side
of the room.
No more bullshit. F*** off! he shouted a
few moments later, when it was suggested the
evidence he was presenting could have been
compromised or stolen.
Its absolutely possible, countered Courtois.
F*** off. F*** off.
I have over 100 papers in cryptography...
Over. F*** off.
It was at this point he walked out.
GQ had rst been approached over a month
before about the interview. The deal was this:
the fabled inventor of bitcoin would unveil
himself to be Craig Wright. The BBC and the
Economist would do news stories; we would
do the prole piece.
The search for Nakamoto, I knew, had
become the digital ages hunt for the white
whale. Imagine if the inventor of Facebook was
still unknown and you get the idea.
Every so often a publication would dispatch
another willing Captain Ahab, and each would
return having spotted him, just rarely the same
one. Everyone from the New Yorker (which
named a student) to Vice (which named the
US government) had been on the hunt. The
New York Times put an author of a book about
bitcoins creation (Digital Golds Nathaniel
Popper) on the case, who named cryptographer Nick Szabo, and cornered him in a
BITCOIN
It was a few days later that I got the email from
Dr Courtois, who had examined the evidence
we had been shown.
Stuart, he wrote. Craig has cheated us. It
is a hoax. I have proof.
o explain what bitcoin is, its perhaps

easier to start with what bitcoin
isnt. It is not, strictly speaking,
a currency. Whereas the value of
a currency rises and falls at the
mercy of interest rates, ination, trade, global
downturns, whims of government and, at the
most extreme, simply how much of it there is
in circulation (print too much, as Zimbabwe
found at the turn of the century, and it
becomes worthless), bitcoin is designed to be
a nite resource, and is therefore classied by
the American government as a commodity.
New bitcoins are created each day, but the
rate theyre produced at will continue to halve
conspiracy against the United States for creating and distributing his distinctly old-school
liberty dollars he had minted his own coins
and printed his own notes.)
As with all currencies, bitcoin is only valuable because people think it is. This is something
bitcoin developers I spoke to call a collective
hallucination. The idea being: if everyone has
the same hallucination, it is, to all intents and
purposes, real.
We can be reasonably sure the pound today
is still a pound tomorrow or next year. A bank
may be robbed, but no one is going to rob all
the banks. The worry with a digital currency
is that a single hacker could crack the sourcecode and take the lot (though even here theres
an irony: steal it all and it becomes worthless.
Imagine stealing all the money in the world and
you start to appreciate the irony).
On all these fronts, bitcoin has proved
remarkably resilient. Launched in 2009, it
The central code, also, has also shown itself

to be uncrackable. This is where Satoshis reputation is born.
Dan Kaminsky, an internet security expert
who is notorious for once discovering a aw in
the internet that would have allowed a skilled
hacker to shut it down, famously tried, but
failed. He came to a simple conclusion: either
Satoshi was actually a team of people or he
was a genius.
That was 2011 and it remains as bulletproof as ever.
The rst ever real-world bitcoin transaction
took place on 22 May 2010, when Florida programmer Laszlo Hanyecz made an offer on an
internet forum: he would pay 10,000 bitcoins
for someone to buy him two pizzas. He was
taken up on the offer by a man in England
who paid with his credit card: two Papa Johns
pizzas duly arrived and Hanyecz sent the bitcoins over.
Over 100,000 companies now accept bitcoin as a

form of payment... From Expedia to Virgin Galactic
until, by around 2140, 21 million have been
created, at which point there will be no more.
In this way, its more like gold.
It is not the rst virtual currency, but it is
the rst successful one. There have been the
likes of digicash, which used cyberbucks
(launched 1990, bankrupt 1998), beenz, which
used a points system (launched 1998, defunct
2001), and e-gold, which used a digital currency redeemable for gold (launched 1996,
everyone involved arrested by the American
government in 2007).
All failed for different reasons, but the crucial
one is trust. Digicash and beenz failed because
not enough people used them. This is rarely a
problem with pounds. E-gold failed because
hackers stealing money became widespread,
plus its actually illegal to create your own
currency in most countries, not least the US.
(This is something Hawaii resident Bernard von
NotHaus also found to his cost in 2009, after
he was arrested by the FBI and charged with
1 June 2011
Bitcoin value
skyrockets
after being
mentioned in a
Gawker story
about the Silk
Road website.
works using a distributed database known as

the blockchain essentially, this is a constantly
updated record of every bitcoin transaction,
shared across every computer on the bitcoin
network. Theres no central hub, and so no
ofce to raid (music and lm piracy works in a
similar way and is similarly tricky to squish). In
a stroke, it solved a key problem of electronic
money the double-spend dilemma. With
bits and bytes, whats to stop you copying
money several times over, rather than actually moving it? Banks solve this by acting
as trusted middlemen who maintain an electronic ledger. Now, everyone held the ledger
and everyones computers did the hard work
(the reward for leaving your computer on is a
chance of winning the newly created bitcoins
the process is called mining).
Put another way: the internet is an exchange
of information, some of it true, some of it not.
Satoshis code harnessed it by ensuring an
exchange of facts.
8 July 2011
Top of the rst bubble.
Value of
one bitcoin
$31
At the time, the 10,000 were worth around

$20 (15). Today, they would be worth $6.6m
(5m). Ever since, its been celebrated annually
as bitcoin pizza day, where people raise a
slice to the most expensive takeaway in history.
For quite some time, bitcoin effectively had
no value: two events were to drastically change
that. On 1 June 2011, Gawker published a story
about the Silk Road an underground dark web
marketplace where everything from drugs to
rearms were sold. The story mentioned these
items were being purchased using bitcoin, a
digital currency they called untraceable.
This was not entirely accurate: the blockchain
ledger is entirely transparent. The problem was,
it didnt link back to a person unless they were
to convert their bitcoins back into regular currency, at which point, it did.
Regardless, the story put bitcoin on the map,
and the value of a single bitcoin soared to $22
within days. Ironically, it was the arrest of the
person behind the Silk Road Ross Ulbricht,
27 February 2012
Bitcoin Magazine
launches. Seven
months later the
Bitcoin Foundation
is formed.
Value of
one bitcoin
$86
28 March 2013
Total value of all bitcoin
passes $1bn.
In the month and a half since Wright claimed

to be Satoshi a period that took in Donald
Trump securing the Republican nomination for
the White House and the lead-up to the Brexit
vote, events that weakened the dollar, pound
and euro bitcoins value soared once more,
rising from $445 to $731.
Bitcoin was created by Nakamoto in the
aftermath of the 2008 global nancial crisis
to be free of such outside inuences and it
was proving to be the case. Uber threatens
to eliminate cab ofces, but bitcoin is threatening to eliminate banks. It had, seemingly,
become the most trusted form of money in
the world.
raig Wright is a computer scientist,
serial entrepreneur (of many
failing companies, at least one
of which, Hotwire, went into
administration) and serial collector
of various degrees (even if, yes, he admits he
may have exaggerated some on his LinkedIn
prole: It was all piss taken at myself, he
says, suggesting a curious sense of humour).
He apparently has qualications in subjects
ranging from theology to statistics, engineering to law. He is also being investigated by the
Australian tax authorities (late last year, they
raided his house over tax rebates his companies
He has the skills... but you would

be a fool to claim you are
Satoshi. He could be prosecuted
the disputed foundation of Facebook and the
subject of the 2010 lm The Social Network
has, along with his twin, invested most of
his fortune in bitcoin, and the brothers are
currently estimated to own one per cent of
all bitcoin in circulation. He has suggested
that, eventually, a single bitcoin could rise in
value to over $40,000, putting the cost of that
2010 pizza at just under half a billion dollars
(at which point youd hope Hanyecz got his
preferred toppings).
29 November 2013...
Bitcoin reaches all-time
peak price of $1,242
after the FBI tells a
USSenate committee
hearing it is a legitimate
nancial service.
Value of gold
$1,240
per oz
...and on the same day
Bitcoin value surpasses
that of gold for the
rst time in the US.
have claimed, of which Wright said, Weve

been in negotiation with them for years! Its
not a criminal investigation!).
When I visit Dr Courtois fourth oor ofce
at UCL before the interview London skyline
in the background, NSA coffee mug on the
shelf he says yes, Wright could be Satoshi.
He has the skills, he has been at the
crypto conferences.
But he warns two things. One: Its quite possible it was a collective creation. And two: You
14 March 2014
Newsweek
cover story
mistakenly
identifying
the creator
of bitcoin
hits shelves.
would be a fool to claim you are Satoshi. Not

for a criminal connection, but a criminal responsibility connection. He could be prosecuted.
The test was cryptographic, which is to say,
the claim could easily be veried to be true or
false. There should be no shades of grey.
The real Satoshi didnt just create the code
of bitcoin. He owns according to a widely
cited internet study by bitcoin security consultant Sergio Demian Lerner around one
million himself. At todays value, theyre worth
just over half a billion pounds. Think of every
bitcoin in existence as a Tetris stack: the earliest sit at the bottom.
To prove he was Satoshi, Craig Wright had to
spend, and therefore move, one of those earliest bitcoins in existence. Instead, however, he
chose to sign one essentially showing the
note, rather than handing it over for inspection.
Before the meeting, the evidence was evenly
balanced, if confusing and contradictory.
Heres what I knew about Satoshi: he was
a native English speaker, as his writing was
remarkably uent in his many blog posts (tick).
He used terms like bloody hard and at
rather than apartment, suggesting an English,
or at least a Commonwealth, origin (tick). He
embedded one of the very rst, unspendable, coins known as the genesis block with
a Times headline from January 2009 about a
second Gordon Brown bailout, suggesting a libertarian nature (Wright is a former subscriber
to the Cypherpunks mailing list) and a British
press reader (entirely possible). He wrote in a
particular code (C++) and used a particular notation that several experts told me was popular
in the late Eighties and early Nineties, likely
placing him in his forties (tick).
And nally, I knew he left. At 6.22pm GMT
on 12 December 2010, seven days after a plea
not to use bitcoin to donate to Wikileaks (the
heat it would bring would likely destroy us at
this stage), Satoshi Nakamoto posted his nal
message and disappeared.
Why come out now after six years away?
I dont want to come out, he says. But
people in my organisation keep going, Weve
got to do this.
When Dr Courtois was in the room, he had
29 August 2015
Barclays announces
it will be the rst
UK high street bank
to accept bitcoin.
a 32-year-old from Austin, Texas who had

gone under the pseudonym Dread Pirate Roberts
that caused it to skyrocket. The FBI seized over
144,000 bitcoins worth $28m (21m) at the
time and $96m today and subsequently told a
US Senate committee hearing in November 2013
it was a legitimate nancial service. Briey, the
price soared to $1,242 for a single bitcoin, before
levelling out in the low hundreds.
Still, there have been problems. As bitcoins
are essentially just data stored on your computer rather than in a bank, theyre remarkably
easy to lose. Horror stories abound. Memory
sticks worth thousands overwritten, computers
worth fortunes junked. Notably, a Welsh IT
worker called James Howells lost 7,500 bitcoins in 2013 when he accidentally threw out
an old hard disk. It is currently somewhere in
a Welsh landll and worth over $5m.
Regardless, over 100,000 companies now
accept direct payment in bitcoin. You can
book a holiday (Expedia), sign up for dating
(OkCupid), buy everything from a computer
(Dell) to lingerie (Victorias Secret). You can
even travel into space (Sir Richard Branson
has said they will accept bitcoin payment for
Virgin Galactic). Japan have even declared it
a legal currency.
It could just be the start. Cameron
Winklevoss one of the twins involved in
BITCOIN
said it was due to his family so they dont
get painted with this shit. This was new.
What organisation? Theres a pause. I have
a nice big organisation. We have ofces in different locations, including London. No one
knows who the f*** we are, and I like that.
Id heard he was building a supercomputer
in Iceland. Yes... I dont want to talk about
where it is... its not in Australia.
But is it in Iceland?
If I answer that question I get in big trouble,
he says. Why? People are going to go, Craig,
youre not supposed to talk about those
things. He looks over at the PRs. At the end
of the day, there is a company, people working
for me. There are about 30 people here in
London. They dont want to be known. Not
because they dont want to be seen with me,
but... because... Because? Because this is what
they do. He wont say exactly what that was.
Far from coming clean, every reply only
opens up further questions ones he then
refuses to answer. He is curt in a half-smiling
way that suggests he wants to let me know
he knows more than I do. In some ways, he
is almost childlike. He often leans back and
straightens his tie, like a bank manager conducting an appraisal. Every so often he brings
up Dr Courtois, unprompted, to bristle at how
unfairly hed been treated, despite him having
been the aggressor.
He didnt need to move (ie, spend) any
bitcoins to prove who he is, he says, because
simply signing one showed he had access, and
so, It would be like Ive stolen the Mona Lisa,
put it on my wall, took a couple of pictures,
then put it back. It barely needs pointing out
that a polaroid of the Mona Lisa would not
conrm one owned it.
I ask him about the claim by early bitcoin
developer Gregory Maxwell that the documents leaked to Wired had been edited to make
it look like he was Satoshi.
Bullshit from Maxwell that we had to get disproven: the codes are f***ing out there.
The person behind the leak, he says, was a
former employee attempting to extort him. I
have my suspicions [who it was], but I dont
have proof so I cant say.
Value of
one bitcoin
$504
October 2015
Bitcoin value reaches
its peak for 2015.
Curiously, it is only when we speak about

his private life, about how much bitcoins creation had cost him, that he relaxes and calms;
he strokes his tie once more, and nally the
words begin to ow. This is how bitcoin started
at least, as far as he tells it.
Hed been working on bitcoin, on and off, he
says, for a decade. Tinkering here and there.
Hed initially got into computers through his
grandfather, who let him use his terminal in the
basement. His father, he says, openly disliked
him. We didnt get on. I havent spoken to
my father in a long time. He never liked what
I did, never liked my life.
He collected degrees for fun, and soon developed a reputation as the go-to guy for a range
of computing consultancy roles at start-ups.
It was only when he was let go, he says, from
his role at accountancy rm BDO on 3 January
2008, when the nancial crisis started to hit,
that he fully devoted himself to it.
They gave me this whack of money, enough
not to work, not forever, but from then I could
dedicate my time. He hunkered down at his
house in a remote farm in Port Macquarie, surrounded by screens, and set to work. He had
help, he says, notably from a friend called
Dave Kleiman. As a former army ofcer and
Palm Beach County Sheriff, Kleiman was not
your usual computer geek. After suffering a
motorcycle accident in 1995, which left him
wheelchair-bound, he became a computer
autodidact. He was regularly called on by
CNN and ABC to dish out advice on security
and passwords. He had so many three-letter
qualications after his name his nickname was
Dave Mississippi.
He helped a lot, says Wright. He knew
who I was.
The leaked documents if accurate reect
this. An email sent from Wright to Kleiman on
12 March brings it up abruptly: I need your
help editing a paper...
By October 2008, the now-famous white
paper was published: Bitcoin: A Peer-To-Peer
Electronic Cash System. By January, the software was released for free online.
He says it consumed him. He didnt look for
a job. Soon, his marriage started failing.
8 December 2015
Wired and Gizmodo
publish rival stories
suggesting the
Australian Craig
Wright invented
bitcoin after being
leaked personal
documents.
It wasnt the best way to maintain a marriage, he says. His wife would ask, Craig,
what the f*** are you going to do to pay the
rent? He would simply reply, Were ne!
Except, he wasnt ne. The value of bitcoin
was still on the oor. He remortgaged his house
just to keep going.
By 2011, he says, everything fell apart. His
wife decided to leave him (Some of that was
bitcoins cause). Kleiman had fallen in the
shower in late 2010, and was subsequently in
and out of hospital (Dave was my best friend.
He kept me sane... That was hard).
The burden of being Satoshi, he says, became
too great. He left it all behind.
The search for Satoshi has been difficult
precisely because of his brilliance. He would
have to be an expert in many elds: a deep
understanding of coding, of economics, of
nancial markets and advanced cryptology.
Hardly anyone ts the bill. A team or a genius.
I know people want me to be something
else, he says. People want me to be an academic. Im not. Im an applied scientist and
an applied engineer. I take different ideas and
stick them together. Edison didnt invent new
theory. And Ben Franklin didnt invent new
theory. Tesla didnt. Steve Jobs didnt.
The most telling story, I felt, was this: once,
while studying advanced economics for one
of his many qualications, he came across a
famous essay, I, Pencil, written in 1958 by
Leonard Read. It contains a proposition the
pencil may seem like a simple object, yet not
a single person on the face of this earth knows
how to make me.
From the wood to the tools to chop the
wood, to the tools to make those tools, to the
graphite, the rubber and the metal, a single
pencil is a co-operation of thousands of experts
in dozens of skills, stretching back in time,
from across the world. But Wright took this
as a challenge. He wanted to make a pencil.
And I couldnt cheat. You cant go out and
buy a chisel. You have to build the tools. And
you cant start by building iron tools. To make
Continued on page 262
Value of
one bitcoin
$750
May-June 2016
Large spike in value
occurs for the currency.
13 June 2016
The value of bitcoin
doubles in a month
inthe run-up to
Brexit. Following
theresult, a surge
ofinvestors ock to
bitcoin as the value
of sterling slumps to
a 32-year low.
Hidden away in a once anonymous corner of LA is a painter so distinctive his

work has caught the eye of everyone from Marc Jacobs to Kanye West. While
paying tribute to past masters such as Basquiat and Bacon, Wes Lang turns the
iconography of his beloved tattoos into art, entrancing the A-list while keeping
his outsider edge. Now, he takes GQ on a tour of the dark side of town...
STORY BY
Dylan Jones
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Gavin Bond
WES LANG
Body of work: Tattoo
artist turned tattooed
artist Wes Lang
photographed at his
LA studio, May 2016
People who are at

the top of whatever
they do come to
me. Im the best
es Langs studio
is so big it ought to have its own postcode. Its
so big you could park a plane inside it. Its like
an aircraft hanger, full of gargantuan canvasses
and Langs small collection of muscle cars. His
studio is a great place for parties, its a great
place to hang out and, most importantly, its
a great place for him to paint. It sits on the
other side of the Los Angeles River, just a few
miles from the centre of Downtown LA, in a
part of the city that has so far not just resisted
gentrication, but is, in fact, still somewhat
invisible. Driving around here you feel as if
youre going from one Hollywood backlot to
another, passing by hundreds of anonymous
warehouses, almost as though youre moving
through an Ed Ruscha triptych. Out here, on
the fringes of the city, the shadows always
look the same. Out here, in a part of LA that
you never see on lm, it is always 4.30 in the
afternoon. Wes Lang may live way back in the
centre of things, up in the Hollywood Hills, but
it is here that he works, here where he spends
his thinking and working time. Here where he
makes the art that is collected feverishly by
everyone from Jay Z and Beyonc to Matthew
Freud and David Beckham.
I came out here in 2011 and did a residency
at the Chateau Marmont, rented out the penthouse, and did a painting every day, says
Lang. I didnt know anybody, but as I was
living in the hotel I was making friends, just
sitting down in a garden and having drinks
at night. I ended up doing a project with The
Grateful Dead, bumped into a whole bunch of
interesting people, and when I eventually went
back to Brooklyn I thought to myself, What
the hell am I doing here?
The west feels like the perfect environment for Lang, the perfect soundstage. An
artist whose work plays with American iconography, his canvases regularly feature
Confederate ags, crucixes, the Grim Reaper,
skulls, praying skeletons, buffalos, cowboys
and eagles. And, of course, the motif that
has become his most identiable calling card,
the Native American. The skull warrior in the
headdress is his Mickey Mouse. Lang is a big
man, a funny man, refreshingly dismissive of
the world in which he has found himself, a
world which is on the brink of embracing him
as a seriously great artist. As he tends to say,
I like to take American history and then completely ignore it.

Downtown Los Angeles is on the cusp. When
you drive down there these days you are confronted by a clash of imagery. You have all
these gleaming new glass and steel buildings,
the kind that look like banks, the kind that
could be anywhere from Dallas or Shanghai
to Glasgow or Paris. And yet you still have the
street people, the vagrants who wander around
like extras from a bad zombie movie. Except
that this is no movie. Parts of Downtown LA
actually feel quite dangerous, in the way that
New Yorks East Village used to in the late
Seventies, or the way that areas of Rio de
Janeiro still do today. When you park your car
and wonder what might be left of it when you
return. You worry that your watch might look
a little too expensive (even though it isnt).
This part of the city is seriously conicted, and
while there are pockets of OTT gentrication
when I visited a few months ago I lost count
of the number of times that people wanted
to meet up at Bestia, one of the areas most
over-subscribed restaurants it is still rough
round the edges.
Which is obviously why the art world loves
it so much. That, and the fact that studio space
down here is still relatively cheap so cheap
that there has been something of an artistic
diaspora from Brooklyn, as artists make the
journey west in search of space as much as a
different sensibility.
I love it out here, man, says Lang. Its like
my own frontier.
Born in 1972, Lang grew up middle-class
in New Jersey (My moms an interior decorator, my dad owned a used record store)
and moved to Manhattan when he left high
school in 1991. He worked in a tattoo parlour

he is absolutely covered in the things and
then started to get paid to turn up and party
at the Limelight, which was still a cool club in
the early Nineties.
When I started to get tattooed it was still
very frowned upon in normal walks of life, you
know, he recalls. At the time the shop wasnt
full of hot chicks getting tramp stamps over
their asses, it was a lot of gang tattoos and then
just biker stuff, and cops and people like that,
people from all the different fringes of life. Now
its so different that it wouldnt surprise me if
you had a tattoo on your neck. Theyre almost
like fashion its wild. Anyway, after working
with tattoos I started making art.
He decided to try and do it properly having
seen the seminal Jean-Michel Basquiat show
at the Whitney in 1992, encouraged further
by the Robert Rauschenberg retrospective
at the Guggenheim as well as by the artist
Keith Haring. Lang was an art handler at the
Guggenheim at the time, and was starting to
immerse himself in the scene. You can see a lot
of Basquiat in his work, not just in terms of
subject matter but also execution. Im obviously extremely inuenced by Basquiat, he
says. But thats ne because for me good art
is about artists that obsess over their predecessors and carry on the conversation with the
guys that they were in love with. And I have
a fairly short list as well as Basquiat, theres
Cy Twombly, who I got introduced to through
Basquiat; Francis Bacon, who obviously
was just as obsessed with Diego Velzquezs
paintings; and Franz Kline was somebody I
got really into as a kid. I love being able to
look at paintings and think, I know where you
got that from.
I like to take American history

and completely ignore it
Photographs Joshua White
Death becomes
him: The spectre of
mortality looms
large in Wes Langs
Untitled (Life Is
Beautiful), a work
in acrylic, oil stick
and coloured pencil
WES LANG
Ive been drawing

and painting
the same things
my entire life
Bone idols (from top):

Wes Langs hanger-like
studio is full of halfnished artworks;
TheBig Takeover
I design every partof my life.

Everything is together
rings. I design every part of my life. Everything
is together, and its not like Im going to make
paintings so I can be cool and be on Instagram
and make f***ing money. Ive got no issue with
people that do that, I just dont do it that way.
I am the opposite. I have gates in front of my
place you have no idea where I am Im in
the middle of nowhere. Even if theres stuff
going on, nobody knows Im in here. I dont
have social media, I never have. I dont have
an art gallery anywhere in America at all. I
have one in Denmark, thats it, but somehow
people keep coming here and buying these
works and I cant make enough of them and
its really exciting. I mean I dont know how
to put it into words really. Its here, its all the
things that you read and see, in this work. Its
the power of repetition, using the same images
over and over again, using the same words over
and over again.
Lang says he always wanted to be an artist
and that he was just waiting to be pushed into
it. Ive literally always known it, Ive known
it since I was a little kid, it was the only thing
I was going to do. My uncle likes telling this
story about driving back from my high school
graduation. He was sitting in the back seat with
his girlfriend at the time and I had my back to
them, and my uncles like, So what are you
going to do now? and I was like, Im going to
move to New York and become a famous artist
and make a shitload of money. And he turned
to his girlfriend and was like, Good f***ing
luck with that. I knew what I was going to
do, but I had no idea how I was going to do it.
I didnt go to college, I didnt know anybody,
I didnt know anything about art, I hadnt
taken any art classes, I just felt it, you know?
I still have a lot of drawings from when I was
a little kid and its all skulls and Indians its
the same things. Ive been drawing and painting the same things my entire life.
What goes on tour

(from left): One of
the T-shirts Lang
designed for Kanye
West; Lang and West
at an LA book signing,
December 2013
A lot of what Lang does comes from a place

of referenced material. The earliest signicant
thing that he remembers owning was a novelty
company catalogue full of skulls and Indian
charms, jokes, magic tricks, All that kind of
shit... and I got that thing and I held on to it like
it was the f***ing most sacred thing in the universe and I just looked at it and obsessed on it
and picked out the things. I formed that shit in
third grade and the language I speak here [in my
art] was formed in third grade. I dont remember
much else from then, but I do remember that
book. That, and my moms cassettes of Deepak
Chopra. That was me growing up.
At the end of the day and Langs days are
long he says he just has to work. If you want
to be famous, then God bless you, but there
are two different kinds of famous, theres Ive
got a million Instagram followers because Ive
got sick tits, and being known for good work.
I also stay away from social media because my
work gets bootlegged all the time. So thats a
really big reason why I dont put it out there,
because I dont need people to see what Im
doing every day to feel good about myself. Id
rather just work, sell paintings to the people
that are kind enough to purchase them. I dont
need to have gallery shows anymore to feel
awesome, not that I wont, but its not something I desire anymore.
One way in which the digital world has
altered our perceptions of art is the fading
importance of the critic. Once critics were
conduits as well as tastemakers, whereas
these days they dont appear to be either. A
statement I heard years ago in a lecture was,
Beware of the good and the bad opinions
of others, and thats one of the credos I live
by. I have noticed fewer and fewer people
sending me emails of their reviews, because
with Instagram and all that stuff, everybodys a
critic, you can put your shit out there and have
it reviewed like instan-f***ing-taneously.
Having said something like this, Lang will
shrug, lean back in his chair and spot something that needs addressing on one of the
many unnished canvasses that line his studio.
In a way Langs studio is his playpen, a gigantic
space in which he can paint, tinker with muscle
cars, muck around with tattoos and, well,
hang. After a day immersed in his own private
Idaho, he can get into his Mercedes, turn up
The Grateful Dead, and drive into Downtown,
up through Koreatown, and back up into the
Hollywood Hills, back into Whitley Heights,
right near the Hollywood Bowl, home to his
beautiful house and his beautiful girlfriend.
Nice life, Wes, nice life.
Photographs joerperez.com; Brad Elterman; Joshua White
ne can look at Langs art and

know where he got a lot of it
from you can see elements
of Philip Guston, Twombly
and Martin Kippenberger
although one of the prime motifs involves
Native Americans, espoused in a celebratory,
death-or-glory kind of way, a uniquely deant
sensibility that makes his work easy to spot.
So much of his imagery comes from the
world of the tattoo parlour, which is certainly
why he has been asked to collaborate on so
many commercial projects. Many of his more
cartoon-like images were incorporated into
the merchandise he designed for Kanye Wests
Yeezus tour in 2013.
One day, he called me out of the blue and
was like, Will you work with me on the merchandise? It was real quick, man. We met in
September, I guess, and it was on peoples backs
a couple of weeks later. I just sat down, I did the
work, got it done and got it out. It happened out
of the blue. Ive been asked about the guy many
times, but I dont really talk about it because,
I dont know, that relationship is sacred to me
and I dont want to take advantage. You see
people that align themselves with celebrity and
use it to try to better themselves... and it never
works, it doesnt do anything for you, it doesnt
mean shit. Hes just a guy whos really talented,
Im a guy whos really talented, the way that
we worked together worked, and thats it, you
know? Im not surprised that people who are at
the top of whatever they do come to me. Im the
best at what I do, and Im never surprised when
the best of other things show up in my life, you
know what I mean? Thats what I make.
He has also worked with Marc Jacobs, produced badass Rolexes with George Bamford,
training shoes and huge biker rings, and
designed the artwork for The Grateful Deads
Spring 1990, an 18-disc box set of concert
recordings (like many ex-tattoo bods, Lang is
a massive Deadhead). All of this contributes to
the Wes Lang world. I live and breathe every
part of what I do... its my cars, my house, the
things I collect, my shoes, my T-Shirts, my
WES LANG
Portrait of the artist

(from top): Wes Lang
at work in his LA
studio, May 2016; The
Eagles Gift diptych
Autumn Winter 2016
The GQ
Collections
With counterculture
rebels, servicemen and
city slickers, fashions
tastemakers are dictating
a classic season of urban
uniforms from tailoring to
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your call to arms
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Giampaolo Sgura
STYLING BY
Luke Day
Punk
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Hugo Boss
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stylists own
Prada
Jacket, 2,530. Shirt, 590. Trousers, 860.
Shoes, 870. Hat, 225. All by Prada. prada.com.
Socks, stylists own
FASHION
Seventies
From left:
Gucci
Jacket, 1,630. Jumper, 495. Trousers, 815.
All by Gucci. gucci.com
Oliver Spencer
Jacket, 750. Jumper, 150. Trousers, 170. Scarf,
80. All by Oliver Spencer. oliverspencer.co.uk
Salvatore Ferragamo
Jumper, 490. Trousers, 670. Scarf,155.
All by Salvatore Ferragamo. ferragamo.com
Paul Smith
Cardigan, 530. Shirt, 210.Jeans,275.
All byPaul Smith. paulsmith.co.uk
FASHION
Styling assistant EmilyTighe

GroomingAndrew M Guida
at Close Up Milano
Grooming assistant
Mara Li Quadri
Photography assistant
Filippo Tarentini
Digitaloperator
Giuliano Carparelli
Casting Simone BartRocchietti
ModelsJulian Schneyder.
Eric Bergmann. Both at DMen.
Benjamin Benedek.
Jordy Baan. Both at Elite
Alice Rawsthorn
PORTRAIT BY
Suki Dhanda
magine being an architect and preparing to

present the design proposal for what promises to
be your most important project. All of the architects competing against you are older and more
experienced, with bigger practices that have
already undertaken commissions of a similar
scale and political sensitivity. You havent. And
you care so passionately about this particular project that you would be heartbroken to lose it. Thats
pretty much how David Adjaye felt eight years ago, when he
was poised to make his nal pitch to design the $540 million
(400m) Smithsonian National Museum Of African American
History And Culture (NMAAHC) in Washington DC.
It was a baptism of re, recalls Adjaye, who turns 50 this
month. This is the kind of project that comes around every
half century for an architect, if youre lucky. I had Oprah
Winfrey in that room. I had Colin Powell. I had the whole
canon of the African American community throwing questions at me like, Who are you? Why should you do this?
And I had to answer. Id look at Oprah, whos scary because
The skys the limit:

The National
Museum Of African
American History
And Culture in
Washington DC is
architect David
Adjayes (above)
most high-prole
project to date
Photographs Camera Press; Alan Karchmer
STORY BY
DAVID ADJAYE
David vs Goliath
As an outsider in an unforgiving industry,
success came the hard way for British
architect David Adjaye, yet his socially
conscious designs have made him a
global superstar. Now, GQ meets the
peoples champion whose monumental,
history-defining new museum opens in
Washington DC next month
I wont be taken down. I just keep going like a crazy person
she doesnt say much. You dont know

what shes thinking so you just assume it must
be bad. Then Id look at Colin Powell and all I
could think was, Good God, its Colin Powell.
Not that elding questions from Americas
reigning media queen and former secretary of
state was the end of Adjayes travails with the
NMAAHC. Having won his dream commission, he spent the next eight years ghting to
protect his design vision in the face of political
squabbles, budget cuts, soaring construction
costs and a barrage of personal attacks accusing him of being too young, too inexperienced,
and (having been born in Tanzania to Ghanaian
parents and lived in Britain for most of his
life) not African American. Yet the museum,
which commands one of the grandest sites
on the National Mall, next to the Washington
Monument and the White House, is now completed and preparing for its ofcial opening
by President Barack Obama on 24 September.
Winning the project changed my career,
and completing it has dominated my working
life ever since, says Adjaye. There were so
many attacks on our design that it felt like
a bloodbath at times. But we ended up with
a building thats got 90 per cent of what we
wanted, which for architecture is pretty damn
great. And even though were now doing
massive projects in different parts of the world,
I dont see them as stressful any more.
Just as well. Having completed such an
imposing and complex commission (which
the Washington Post has predicted will be an
instant favourite) Adjaye has joined the elite
band of starchitects, such as Foster & Rogers,
Rem Koolhaas, Herzog & de Meuron and David
Chippereld, who are contenders for the city
master plans, museums, airports and equally
ambitious projects that affect the lives of millions of people. Just as the late Zaha Hadid
was a rare exception to starchitect stereotype
as the rst woman to join their ranks, Adjaye
is the rst black architect to do so.
ot only has Adjaye played a
decisive part in making contemporary architecture more
eclectic, inclusive and truly
international by opening it up
to African culture, he has established himself
as one of the few designers with the vision,
discipline and ingenuity to express their ideas
or tell stories through the structure and layout
of buildings that are appealing and empowering, as well as efcient. The challenge for him
now is deciding how to make the most of his
new opportunities.
David is a true 21st-century architect, says
the industrial designer Yves Bhar, whose San
Francisco-based company Fuseproject shares
an ofce with Adjaye Associates in New Yorks
Chinatown. The NMAAHC is his crowning
There were so many attacks on our design
achievement. I think Davids status will change

with it, but not his propensity to design standout charismatic buildings that are equal parts
beauty and intelligence.
Sitting in the conference room of Adjaye
Associates London offices, in an art deco
building on Old Marylebone Road, Adjaye
looks remarkably relaxed for someone who
has not only worked hard to achieve so much
in a brutally competitive profession, but is
also a newish father. (He and his wife, Ashley

Shaw-Scott, a former model with an MBA from
INSEAD business school, who is now head
of research at Adjaye Associates, had their
rst child, a son, Kwame, last year.) Softly
spoken with a trilling giggle, the shavenheaded Adjaye, who once modelled in an
Alfred Dunhill campaign, always looks casually dapper. For a day of meetings in London,
he is wearing a caramel-coloured sweater and
DAVID ADJAYE
that it felt like a bloodbath at times
slim, black trousers. Unlike so many architects,

who seem hell-bent on bafing the rest of us
by conversing in inscrutable jargon, he speaks
about his work passionately and knowledgeably, but with refreshing clarity.
After spending his childhood moving around
Africa and the Middle East to wherever his
diplomat father was posted, Adjayes family
settled in London when he was 14 to provide a
stable home for his brother Emmanuel, who is
severely disabled. The experience of caring for
him inspired Adjayes graduation project when
he completed an architecture degree at London
South Bank University in 1990. His design
proposal for a respite centre for people with
disabilities won a prestigious Royal Institute
Of British Architects student award. Id seen
so many of those places with Emmanuel and
was really appalled by them, Adjaye recounts.
I wanted to create a really well designed
environment for him, and when it won the
award I thought, OK, maybe Im good at this.
He worked briey for Chippereld and the
Portuguese architect Eduardo Souto de Moura
before starting a masters degree in architecture
at the Royal College Of Art (RCA).
fter graduating in 1993, he
formed a partnership with an
RCA friend William Russell
then founded Adjaye Associates
in 2000. His rst clients were
artist friends such as Chris Oli and Giorgio
Sadotti and Elizabeth Wright, a couple who
had bought a small plot in Whitechapel.
Adjaye designed the Elektra House for them
but faced legal action from the local council
for modifying its design during construction.
He was saved by Lord Rogers, who, having
asked to meet Adjaye after spotting the house
in an architecture magazine, wrote a letter of
protest to the mayor. Not only did the mayor
stop the legal action, but he invited Adjaye to
enter a competition to design two Idea Stores, a
new concept intended to reinvent public libraries by adding learning, tness, meeting, talks
and performance spaces.
Clad in colourful glass panels through
which passers-by can see what is happening
inside, Adjayes Idea Stores in Whitechapel
and Poplar appear cheerful and welcoming,
in stark contrast to traditional libraries. It was
an important project for David that showed
how the design of public buildings could be
rethought to create open and inviting spaces,
said Zo Ryan, John H Bryan chair and curator
of architecture and design at the Art Institute
Of Chicago, where she presented an exhibition
of Adjayes work last autumn. David uses
architecture as a platform to provoke new
thinking about how we live. And those ideas
have only got stronger and more explicit as he
has developed more projects.
Photographs Eyevine; Getty Images; Alan Karchmer
Building history
(clockwise from top
left): The NMAAHC;
David Adjayes winning
design model; the
view of the Washington
Monument; a close-up
of the ironwork faade
Elektra House
London, 2000
Dirty House
London, 2002
Idea Store Whitechapel

London, 2005
This buildings blank exterior is a challenge to the

traditional house. Conceived as a large-scale
lightbox and devoid of front-facing windows, a
chimney or even a roof, Elektra House is visually
striking yet decidedly alien. Capitalising on the
houses width and lighting, the residents use the
space behind the faade to display art.
Chiming with Adjayes belief in emotive

architecture, this seemingly windowless, black,
anti-graffiti studio and apartment in Shoreditch is
designed to unsettle. Built for artists Tim Noble
and Sue Webster, the converted warehouse is
shielded from wandering eyes by mirrored glass
windows and a parapet on the top oor.
When Tower Hamlets realised that fewer than 20

per cent of its residents had set foot in a library,
Adjaye was commissioned to design a new Idea
Store, housing a caf, classrooms, computer suite
and an extensive collection of books. The modern,
blue and green design more closely resembles
ashopping centre than a civic institution.
The dream for me is not to be the exception in architecture

His public commissions also saved Adjaye
from being stereotyped as an architect of
homes for fashionable clients, such as Oli,
Ewan McGregor and the fashion designer
Roksanda Ilincic. The last describes him as an
utter joy to work with and also commissioned
him to design her Mayfair boutique. Whereas
the focus of his public buildings is openness,
Adjayes homes tend to be conceived as refuges
from the frenzy of urban life. He designed the
Dirty House in Shoreditch for the artists Tim
Noble and Sue Webster in 2002 to resemble
a fortress with a forbidding faade of darkbrown bitumen paint. Whenever street art
appears on the walls, Webster covers it up with
a fresh coat of paint.
Adjayes rapid rise drew criticism from rival
architects, which intensied in 2007 when his
rm hit a cash-ow crisis after several projects
were cancelled or postponed, a common

problem in architecture. With all the challenges, and there have been so many all the
way through, I decided, No, Im not going
to be taken down, Adjaye says. So I just kept
going like a nave, crazy person.
Has one of those challenges been racism?
Undoubtedly, he replies. Its never aggressive, but it is always there. But whats
important to me is that I see more diversity in the built environment. The dream
for me was always not to be the exception
in this profession. Nor is he, thanks to the
recent emergence of gifted young, black
designers such as Kunl Adeyemi, the Nigerian
founder of NL Architects, who designed
one of four Summer Houses for this years
Serpentine Gallery architecture programme in
Kensington Gardens.
djayes ascent has continued

unabated with the completion
of more homes, studios and
galleries for art world friends
and a house in Ghana for the
former United Nations secretary-general Ko
Annan, as well as cultural commissions, such
as the Bernie Grant Arts Centre in Tottenham,
Nobel Peace Centre in Oslo and Museum Of
Contemporary Art in Denver, Colorado. All of
his work was inuenced by a personal research
project he began in 2000 to document architecture throughout Africa. I was sick of the
clichd images of Africa, he says. So Id run
away there for a week or a month whenever
I could. I thought I knew Africa, but soon
learned that I really didnt. His photographs
and notes were published in a seven-volume
book, Adjaye: Africa: Architecture, in 2011.
Photographs Alamy; Getty Images; Lyndon Douglas;

Ed Reeve; JeffSauers; Edmund Sumner
DAVID ADJAYE
Nobel Peace Prize Centre

Oslo, 2005
Francis Gregory Library

Washington DC, 2012
The centres status as a 19th-century, Grade

I listed building meant Adjaye could barely
change a thing. Instead, he reinvented the
interior with light and colour and organised
a sequence of interactive and high-tech
installations that would jar with each other
to create friction.
Adjaye designed the Francis Gregory Library

toentice people inside and for the building to
stand porous and open. How? By swapping
atraditionally closed building front for a large,
welcoming canopy and by adding diamond
cut-out windows that show the park greenery
from any given point within the building.
The research proved invaluable in developing

the NMAAHC design proposal. Adjaye wanted
his architecture to reect the museums mission
of tracing the history of the African American
community from the 17th-century slave trade,
through segregation and the civil rights movement, to the present day. To do so, he encased
the 400,000 square foot building in a lattice of
3,600 bronze-tinted cast-aluminium panels that
form a shape inspired by the ancient Yoruban
sculpture made in West Africa. The ligreeing
of each panel alludes to the ornamental ironwork produced by African American slaves
in New Orleans. You can just enjoy looking
at the patterns, or, if you dig into them, they
pull you into this idea of Africans becoming
American and what that human experience
meant, Adjaye explains.
The museums completion comes at a timely
moment when he has established a productive
structure and schedule with his 100 colleagues
in London and New York. His travel schedule is
relentless, but Ashley and Kwame accompany

him whenever possible from the family home,
a at overlooking the Thames in Westminster.
It helps that Ashley works here, as thats one
way to make sure that were always together,
he says. Thankfully, she is very open to travel
and my slightly nomadic life. So were really
trying to make the most of the time until our
son starts school. I take a couple of hours
or a day off whenever I can, something I rarely
did before.
Not that he is slowing down. Among Adjayes
current commissions are the $122m (91m)
expansion of the Studio Museum in Harlem,
and urban master plans in Germany, Ghana
and Qatar. He has also begun a new research
project, this time in collaboration with a friend,
the Nigerian curator Okwui Enwezor. Its
on what Marcus Garvey called The Black
Atlantic, looking at the relationship of cities in
South America, the Caribbean and the southern states of the US to Africa, Adjaye explains.
William O Lockridge
Bellevue Library
Washington DC, 2012
Perched above street level, this new library is a
yellow, square beacon for its neighbourhood. It
offers sweeping views across the residential area,
in line with Adjayes belief that design should be
a social force and that communities need
empowering buildings. Eleanor Halls
Its taking up a lot of my research time, and

theres much more for me to learn. There are 28
island nations in the Caribbean. Who knew?
Thrilling though his new challenges
are, Adjaye insists that his objectives are
unchanged. For me, the joy of architecture is
to keep on transforming the built environment
to make it more inclusive for more people,
he states. I believed that when I designed
the disability respite centre as a student, and
I still believe it. Though thats one project
I havent realised. Its the commission Ive
always wanted, but have never had. And Id
love to do it.
MORE
FROM GQ

Welcome To The New Brooklyn (Emily Wright,

August 2016)
Built For Good (Edwin Heathcote, July 2016)
Work Is Moving House (Emily Wright, March 2016)
River wears jumper

by Polo Ralph Lauren, 245.
Bregje wears dress
by Polo Ralph Lauren, 349.
SIDEWALK
EMPIRE
From the mean streets of the Bronx to the steps of the Met, RALPH LAUREN
is the New Yorker who dressed the American Dream. Now, to celebrate the
opening of the Polo Ralph Lauren European flagship in London, GQ goes back
to where it all began for the designer who remains as vital as ever
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Jack Waterlot STYLING BY Andrew Holden WORDS BY Robert Johnston
FASHION
Coat, 895. Hoodie,

129. Jeans, 145.
Loafers, 410. All by
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alph Lauren may have

started his career selling
ties to his classmates at the
DeWitt Clinton High
School in the Bronx, but
today he is one of the most
influential fashion
designers in history. Indeed, he has achieved
that ultimate accolade of becoming an
adjective, in his case one to describe an
enviable lifestyle indeed a world ruled by
a unique melange of sportswear, Americana
and classic British tailoring.
But there is more to Ralph Lauren than
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Redfords wardrobe in the 1974 lm of F Scott
Fitzgeralds novel). With the opening in
September of his vast new European agship
Polo Ralph Lauren store on Londons Regent
Street, the entire Polo collection will be
gathered under one roof to show that, as well
as the candy-coloured polo shirts that have
become the summer staple for three
generations of men, Lauren still has his nger
on the fashion pulse and can be as hard-edged
as any New York City street.
In the line-up at his latest presentation in
Milan, the keen-eyed could spot a certain
River Viiperi, who is modelling the new Polo
Ralph Lauren collection here. The 25-year-old
Spanish-Finnish supermodel has become one
of the most sought-after faces in the business
and is thought of as very much the next big
thing. The next generation of Lauren
acionados starts here.
Bregje wears coat,

849. Dress, 299.
Both by Polo Ralph
Lauren. ralphlauren.
co.uk/polo
River wears jumper,
435. Jeans, 145. Both
by Polo Ralph Lauren.
FASHION
Blazer, 595. Waistcoat,
199. Shirt, 99. All
by Polo Ralph Lauren.
River wears jacket,

1,035. Hoodie, 245.
Trousers, 245. All by
Polo Ralph Lauren.
Bregje wears dress,
349. Boots, 399.
Both by Polo Ralph
Lauren. ralphlauren.
co.uk/polo
FASHION
Jacket, 519. Jumper,

435. Both by Polo
Ralph Lauren.
Jacket, 499. Waistcoat,

175. Jumper, 119.
All by Polo Ralph Lauren.
FASHION
Coat, 895. Waistcoat,

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Polo Ralph Lauren.
Models River Viiperi at Soul Artists; Bregje Heinen at The Lions
Make-up and grooming Deanna Melluso Hair Joey George
Manicures Geraldine Holford. All at The Wall Group
Polo Ralph Laurens new agship will open this summer.

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Continued from page 215
them you need copper tools. And for copper

tools you need stone tools. He spent years
on it, even building his own kiln to make the
graphite. In he end, he made ve pencils that
cost him over $1,200 each. Thats probably
another reason I got divorced.
It was that story, perhaps, that saw me
leaving the room that day thinking, yes,
this could well be Satoshi. Despite him not
moving early bitcoins. Despite the unconvincing answers about his reasons for coming out
(what was this company?). Despite the unauthored paper I was given to disprove Maxwells
claims about the leaked documents having
actually been written by himself (It doesnt
say By Craig Wright on the piece as such,
says the PR rm when I contact them after a
tip-off, but as the whole pack is called Craig
Wright and relates to him, it seems clear its his
piece). Despite, also, a source of mine, who
asked not to be named, seemingly conrming a company had forced Wright to say hes
Satoshi: They are big players, but they want
him to come out as Satoshi Nakamoto in order
to basically get more gravitas.
Also, for a man supposedly worth near half
a billion (Im not spending them, he said of
his bitcoin stash. Theyre going nowhere), he
was weirdly boastful about what car he drove
(I own an i8, a BMW, a nice fast car. I get
speeding tickets but I pay them) or the restaurants he ate at (Ive been to three of Gordon
Ramsays so far). Because didnt that pencil
story just sum him up? The genius who would
have to master so many skills; the man who
would have to put them all together. Wasnt it
such a great story?
But this story was about to get stranger still.
hen the judgement came, it

was swift and unforgiving.
This happens on the internet:
damnation goes viral. Reddit
forums light up. He lied.
When the news embargo was lifted a few
days after our interview, it took the world
no more than a few hours to realise what Dr
Courtois had already discovered: the cryptographic proof he had presented was fake. Or
rather, he used an early bitcoin transaction that
had already been signed by Satoshi years ago.

Anyone could have done it. To use Wrights
own Mona Lisa metaphor: he didnt present a
polaroid of the painting on his wall. He presented someone elses old polaroid.
Stories around the world that rst reported
his outing as straight news from the BBC to
the New York Times to the Guardian were
swiftly followed up by claims of a hoax.
Wright countered: he would now provide
extraordinary proof to match his extraordinary claim. It never came. Days later, he
released a statement on his website: I know
now that I am not strong enough for this.
Im sorry.
I speak to various experts working on
bitcoin-related projects. If he is who he claims
to be, theres an easy way to prove it, says
Pavel Matveev, of bitcoin start-up Wirex, which
is working on a bitcoin debit card. It seems like
hes Satoshi Nakamoto, says Frank Schuil, of
bitcoin spending platform start-up Safello, but
he has one hell of a reason not to reveal it.
Its a strange play either way, says Dr
James Smith of Elliptic, a bitcoin company that
identies illicit activity for nancial institutions and law enforcement agencies. I think
hed be nuts if it isnt him, but I think hed be
nuts if it is as well.
Something else came to light too there
was another journalist, unknown to GQ, who
had been chronicling Wrights story from the
inside. The novelist Andrew OHagan had been
contacted some months before by the mysterious company who were now in business with
Wright the one only mentioned under duress
to GQ, and not mentioned at all to the BBC and
the Economist. In OHagans subsequent prole
in the London Review Of Books, published just
before GQ went to press, it would be named as
nCrypt. Its offer to OHagan was to write the
life story of the real Satoshi Nakamoto.
The people behind nCrypt, it turned out, had
rescued Wright. His businesses were failing, he
was in trouble with the Australian tax authorities; he owed his lawyers millions. They offered
an out: they would buy up his companies and
settle his debts. In return, he would work on
patents linked to the underlying blockchain
technology behind bitcoin. And he would
publicly out himself as Satoshi. The package,
they felt, was worth billions. They planned to
sell to Google.
Coincidence or not, just weeks after
OHagan had accepted to write the story,
the documents linking Wright to Satoshi
were leaked to Wired and Gizmodo. It would
contain a neat explanation of why a man
worth nearly half a billion should need such
help: most of his bitcoins were held in a trust,
a document suggested. Wright could not sell
them until 2020. It would be one of many
facts that didnt quite add up.
The patent story was true enough. A search

on the patents pending by nCrypt uncovered
nothing, but a search at Companies House
showed the company director as a Mr Robert
MacGregor. He, in turn, is linked in documents seen by GQ to an umbrella company
called EITC Holdings Limited. Between 23
February and 29 April this year, they led 51
patents, all linked to blockchain technology.
They were, in essence, trying to corner the
market in the new internet of fact exchange.
Though experts GQ spoke to expressed scepticism that the patents would be successful.
They were really selling Satoshi. The documents show plans to use the technology for
everything from voting to payroll, from money
lending to music and lm software that could
eradicate piracy.
But many other claims by Wright in the story
dont stand up to scrutiny.
Take his story about his friend Dave Kleiman.
That story is a tragic one.
After the fall in the shower that December
day which saw Wright, so he says, leave the
mantle of Satoshi behind him Kleimans condition worsened. He developed sores which
became infected with MRSA; he was in and out
of hospital and had multiple operations. Yet
every time, say people familiar with the matter,
he would get right back to his computer,
holding up for days at a time, rarely going
out. After dismissing himself from hospital
for a nal time, he was to be found dead in his
wheelchair on 27 April 2013. According to the
Palm Beach County Medical Examiner Ofce,
his body was decomposing; there was blood
and faecal matter; an empty bottle of alcohol
and a loaded handgun next to him. He died
apparently penniless; his Palm Beach home
was in foreclosure. It had been suggested,
however, that as one of the founders of bitcoin,
he actually passed away with some 350,000
bitcoins sitting on an encrypted USB drive he
kept on him at all times.
Yes, thats accurate based on the information that I have, says Jon Matonis when
I contact him by email.
The question remains: why didnt he cash
out to get private health care?
Speaking to OHagan, Wright confirms
Kleiman did indeed have 350,000 bitcoins.
Yet in explaining why he didnt sell, Wright
says, It wasnt worth much then. Dave died a
week before the value went up by 25 times.
OHagan then adds, He emphasised
something he said the commentators
never understood: for a long time, bitcoin
wasnt worth anything and they constantly
needed money.
This goes unquestioned, but its not remotely
true. At the time of Dave Kleimans death, on
26 April, 2013, bitcoins value was at $136.90,
making his 350,000 stash worth just under
BITCOIN
$50m. The next week, meanwhile, rather than
having gone up in value 25 times as Wright
claims, it had gone down, to $98.10. In fact, it
wasnt until just under six months later that it
had even reached the same level.
It was bafing: why lie? What was being
hidden here?
One of the few solid things that we know
came from the real Satoshi are his blog posts,
now archived at satoshi.nakamotoinstitute.
org. He writes about the task at hand; personal
details are virtually nonexistent. Yet the most
telling thing isnt what the posts are about,
but when they were posted. In more than 500
posts, Satoshi almost never published between
the hours of 5am and 11am GMT, suggesting
thats when he slept.
When Wright spoke with me, he simply said:
I was up at all times always doing stuff, as
people have seen I was around the clock...
Yet in Sydney, where Wright lived at the
time, those hours would suggest a truly bizarre
sleeping pattern of 3pm-9pm. Transpose those
same timings to Florida, however, where
Kleiman lived, and it becomes 1am-7am.
Kleiman is rumoured to have died without
giving anyone, not least his family, the drives
encryption keys, meaning no one can access
SiliconAngle piece cited in this article was

produced by an impostor site posing as the
real SiliconAngle.
Someone had gone to the effort of creating a
fake website to create that story, the only difference being an extra l in the name.
When I contact the senior editor at
Bitcoinist, Evan Faggart, I ask how long the
Wright story was on their website before the
editors note was added.
No more than 24 hours.
Twenty-four hours. Is it feasible that Wright
clicked on this link once then never again? A
man sobbing at the prospect of being locked up
in whatever he assumes the British Guantnamo
Bay to be? Would he not check back?
One thing the editors at both sites agree on
the fake site, which has since been taken down,
was an uncanny replica of the real thing. It
would have taken substantial computer skills,
and no little effort. Ive never seen anything
like it, says Faggart.
One line in the London Review Of Books
piece, therefore, felt particular pertinent: when
the act seems to slip; when Wright seems to
admit he was actually Satoshis sidekick.
Wright makes the point that he wrote all
the new patents himself and not just Dave.
they could have no bank account, and were at

greater risk of kidnap and trafcking and abuse.
Edge is a likeable, plain-speaking northerner.
He is also not a shy man. On his second date,
he said to the girl, I think this system can get
a billion people a bank account.
In the UN conference hall, there are over
400 people, and along with various NGOs and
seemingly every major tech company, there are
representatives from virtually every bank in the
world. When I ask why, I get the same answer:
because a billion micro-payments add up.
As the keynote speakers stand and talk, a
running theme becomes clear: the technology
is spoken about as being a second internet. The
internet of fact and record. Or, as Microsofts
John Paul Farmer, puts it, I look at it akin to
where the web was in the early Nineties. Its a
sentiment repeated throughout the day. Bitcoin
may change banking, but its the underlying
technology that may truly end up changing the
world. Some weeks before, I sat in the back of
a lecture theatre at University College London,
and watched students specialising in the tech,
pitch to start-ups who were specialising, too.
There was no shortage of positions.
The tens of thousands of jobs that have
already been created are likely just the start.
Bitcoin may change banking, but the underlying

technology may truly end up changing the world
them. At todays prices, the bitcoin on it would
be worth some $235m. If Kleiman and not
Wright was the real Satoshi, it would explain
why Wright didnt move them. Maybe no one
could. It would also mean he stepped away
from being Satoshi after rst being admitted
to hospital, as his health began to fail.
When I call Kleimans former colleague at
Computer Forensics LLC, Patrick Paige, and
let him know Im working on a story about
Craig Wright, the rst thing he says to me is:
Is he on suicide watch yet? His tone does
not suggest concern.
Perhaps most bizarrely from the London
Review Of Books story is the reason Wright
finally gives for not wanting to move the
early bitcoins and thereby proving beyond
all doubt hes Satoshi. He sends OHagan
a link to an article with the headline: UK
Law Enforcement Sources Hint At Impending
Craig Wright Arrest. He sobs about this. He
says, The Brits have got their own version of
Guantnamo Bay. He says hes damned if he
does, hes damned if he doesnt. Hell be seen
as a fraud, or hell go to jail.
Yet it turns out this isnt true either.
The story appeared on specialist bitcoin
website bitcoinist.net. Yet go to that link
now and it starts with an editors note: The
n May of this year, after Wrights

claims had begun to unravel, I travelled
to New York and sat in on a United
Nations conference called ID2020. It is
the brainchild of John Edge, a former
investment banker who on 4 May 2013, was
set up on a blind date with a girl who asked
him, All this money stuff, ne, but what are
you doing to make a difference? He didnt
have an answer, but he did have an idea. He
knew how money owed through computer
systems. Specically, how the FIX (Financial
Information eXchange) protocol radically
changed trading when it was introduced in
1992, all but eliminating human errors. What
it did was turn a telecommunications network
into a transactions network. He realised
Satoshi Nakamato, with the shared ledger
that underpinned bitcoin, had done the same
for the internet. But how to use it? Hed had
meetings with BT, with major banks, but the
reaction was always the same: dont be stupid.
Isnt bitcoin that thing for drug dealers?
Only now, he had his lightbulb moment. What
if there was an altruistic use for it? The bitcoin
technology, the shared ledger, was incorruptible.
It sat with no single government. He knew 1.5
billion people around the world didnt have identities on paper and without birth certicates,
In one of the few breaks during the day, I

catch up with Edge. Has it hindered you, I ask,
that no one had convincingly come forward as
Satoshi? Quite the opposite, he says it would
have meant you would have had to ask permission. Satoshi might be the most genius sales
strategy of all time.
And even here, of course, theres a nal
irony. That a man who sat in his house and
invented the future but never wanted his own
identity known perhaps Kleiman, who died
alone, and whose real identity perhaps well
never know may end up providing identities
for billions.
When Satoshi rst went missing, a popular
tagline among bitcoins early adopters
suggested they knew it was for the best; that
perhaps one man would be too small for it,
the invention was too big. Its a line repeated
to me again and again at the United Nations.
We are all Satoshi now.
MORE
FROM GQ

Viola Beach (Simon Akam, July 2016)

The Last Heist (Stuart McGurk, May 2016)
The Man Who Left His Life On The Mountain
(Ed Caesar, April 2016)
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JONATHAN HEAF IS...
...with TOM DALEY

Sex, drugs and dim sum
GQ takes the plunge
at Park Chinois with
divings golden boy
ve been to Park Chinois, Alan Yaus
oligarch canteen on Berkeley Street,
once before. It was a dinner party
more party, less dinner, it must be said
held in celebration of designer Marc
Jacobs. It was a threateningly fashionable
crowd Georgia May Jagger canoodling,
Edie Campbell vaping, Naomi Campbell
planking and about as much fun as a man
(who isnt Leonardo DiCaprio) can have
without the police being called.
Shortly after it opened, Yau the
man responsible for the democratisation
of trendy noodle dishes through his
Wagamama chain described Park Chinois
as an entertainment lifestyle project,
which to me is the sort of thing David Brent
would say about a potential underwear
collaboration with H&M rather than anywhere youd actually want to eat. Still, Im
back and hungry. This time, however, rather
than sharing endless sidecars with supermodels (the shame of it), Im here to grill
professional budgie smuggler-cum-aerial
ballet dancer Tom Daley about winning an
Olympic gold medal in Rio later this month.
Ive never really got sports stars. In my
mind these are men who have chosen to take triple PE professionally for
the rest of their lives. What sort of a person does that? Daleys sport in
particular seems like an odd way to spend ones adult life. From what
I can gather via YouTube, diving is essentially gravity with embellishments, a competition to see who can fall best.
At least with something like the javelin an athlete must compete
against Newtons common laws exceed ones reach to defy human
limits whereas diving just seems to give in to them. It could be the
national sport of lemmings. But what do I know? It certainly seems to
captivate. Ever since Daley took part in the Beijing Olympics (aged 14)
hes risen to become no less than a national treasure. Hes Elton John in
Speedos. The Sir Macca of the aquatic centre. Eureka indeed...
Daley must be the only person for whom wearing clothes, any clothes,
counts as a disguise. Shouldnt he be training rather than sitting here
eating salt and pepper squid, black cod with chilli jam and carbonara
with sea urchin? Its my day off, he chirps as we take a seat actually
an iridescent, violet banquet in a basement that looks like its been
decorated by the interior designer responsible for Christian Greys red room of pain.
Does anyone actually care about the
Olympics? Isnt every athlete on dope?
Not everyone, Daley protests. Testing
is rigorous. I could be tested at any time.
What would happen if an inspector arrived
at our lunch? They would immediately
take me into the bathroom. I would have
to take my trousers down to my knees,
pull my T-shirt up to my chest, spin around
360 and then pee on demand. They have to
watch the pee come out. How thorough.
A great deal has changed for Daley since
2012. He moved to London, switched
coaches and overcame his fear of camera
ashes from big crowds something that,
in part, stopped him from achieving gold
rather than settling with bronze four years
ago. Hes also learnt a new dive to ensure
a gold medal, a dive that has never been
attempted by any diver ever before. Its
the forward, three point ve somersault
with one twist, he explains. Its the sort
of thing you see a clown doing in a circus
strapped to a harness. Ive nailed it.
Thanks to David Beckham, every athlete
who wants a career beyond sport must
now be one of two things: either a fashion
model or a role model. On 2 December 2013
Daley conrmed his sexuality as only a
millennial should via a grainy, heartfelt
YouTube video. He is now happily engaged
to Dustin Lance Black, the writer who won an Academy Award for Milk.
I never wanted to be known as the gay diver, he says of his decision.
Id dated girls. I never denied being gay; I was just vague. The sporting
world can be notoriously homophobic. Was Daley advised against taking
such a stand? Lots of people in the industry told me if I came out as
gay it would end my career. I was told I would never get sponsorship
again. But the good thing about sport is, if you excel when it counts
for me, in the pool then the rest follows. Get the results, get the glory.
Speaking of glory, never mind winning gold, isnt Daley looking
forward to all that naked, sporting esh in the Olympic village? Are the
rumours about the shagathons all true? Youve got hundreds of athletes
crammed into student accommodation. They are in peak physical condition and have been locked away training for months. Talk about a need
for a release. Lets just say the sex is... Olympic? Exactly. The sex is
Olympic. And who wouldnt want a gold for that particular sport?
Park Chinois, 17 Berkeley Street, London, W1. 020 3327 8888. parkchinois.
com. Watch the Out To Lunch lm with Tom Daley on gq.co.uk
VERDICT The approach +++,, The starting position +++,, The take-off ++++, The ight ++++,The entry +++++Overall Gold!
Illustrations James Gilleard; Zohar Lazar
Daley is a national treasure.

Hes Elton John in Speedos
Conduit Street
j o h nv a r v a t o s . c o m
HOZIER: Singer/Song writer, 2016

GQ - September 2016 UK

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The GQ Collections, Autumn Winter 2016

SEPTEMBER 2016 GQ.CO.UK 31

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