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de Grisogono

Boule earrings in rose gold fea turing pink sapphires


(76.25 carats) and white diamonds (1.20 carats).
Price on appl ication.
14A New Bond Street
(tel: 020 7499 2225; degrisogono.com)

TATLER PROMOTI O

Adler
Thaleia necklace and earrings in carbon and
18-carar yellow-gold et featu ring 29 fancy yellow
oval-cut diamonds (10.88 carats) and yellow
diamonds (3-49 carats). Prices on application.
13 New Bond Street
(tel: 020 7409 2237; adler.ch)

The Princes Victoria


white-gold watch fealllring 604 ideal-cut
diamonds (5.50 carats). 68,400.

"

I13A Jermyn St reet


(tel: 020 7839 8709; backesandstrauss.com)

TATLER PROMOTIO

Cross-over diamond ring featuring natural fancy


oval-shape orangey-pi nk diamond (5.08 carats)
and white diamond (4.35 carats);
fancy-cut diamond necklace featuring 54
diamonds (64.24 carats). Prices on application.
Old Bond Street
7493 9833; chatila.com)

22

(tel:

020

Clockwise from above left: asymmetrical pair of


earrings, one pear shape (6.65 carats) and one
oval shape (7.79 carats); c ushion-shape ring
(7.83 carats); lace ring (9.30 carats): oval ring
(18.57 carats). All one-of-a-kind pieces from
the Para"iba Tourmaline collection. micro-sec
with diamonds in white gold (18 carats) .
Prices on application.
23 Burlington Arcade
(tel: 020 7409 0110; nourbel-lecavel ier.com)

T ATLER PROMOTI ON

171 New Bond Street


tel : 020 7907 8800; harrywinston.com

Available from Mappin & Webb


132 Regent Street
tel: 020 7287 0033; ma ppinandwebb.com

178 New Bond Street


tel: 020 7437 5050; boodles.com

180 New Bond Street


tel : 020 7499 2200;
davidmorris.com

14A New Bond Street


te l: 020 7499 2225;
degrisogono.com

13 New Bond Street


tel: 020 7409 2237;
adler.ch

43-44 New Bond Street


tel : 020 7493 2299; wempe .com

9 New Bond Street


tel : 020 7493 0400; vancleef-a rpels.com

Available fro m the Audemars Piguet


boutique at Ha rrods
(tel: 0 20 7730 1234 extension 2637;
audemarspiguet.com)

172 New Bond Street


tel: 020 7290 1536; moussaieff. co.uk

113A Jermyn Street


tel: 020 7839 8709;
backesandstrauss.com

22 O ld Bond Street
tel: 020 7493 9833;
chatila.co m

23 Burlington Arcade
tel : 0 20 7409 0110;
no urbel-leca velier.com

ROYAL BABY SPECIAL~

What to exEect...
THE FIRST YEAR
Boobs leaking before archbishops! Caffeine crazes in
Kensington Palace! Oh, dearest Kate, the joys you'll be enduring
over the next 12 months ... By Deborah Feldman
Photographed by TORK.IL GUDNASON

ou mighc have rhoughc things


would be easier once the whole
entire world stopped watching
your stomach expand, bur it's
now char the baby has arrived
chat your life gets REALLY complicated ...

LEAVING HOSPITAL
Your insanely chick long hair won't start falling
our for another three months, so you can use
ic in all ics luscious glo ry to discracc accemion
from your (I'm afraid) still-swollen tummy.
While walking d own the steps of the Lindo
Wing mighc once have felc totally natural,
there is now a sea of paparazzi waicing to
capcure the momem , so your main concern is
nor to d rop the baby. You mighc be more
confident carrying a marrow swad dled in a
cashmere blanket, while the baby leaves
secretly via the back entrance with a fleet
of security guards.

POSTING THE NEWS


Tradicio nally, a message goes up on che gaces
of Buckingham Palace and, while it's a
good idea to post som ething on the royal
website, Facebook o r Twitter accounts,
I strongly recommend that you d o no t put
up a piccure ac chis rime. No maccer how
beauciful you chink che baby is, I promise
you it isn't. Not until it's at least three
months old and, even then, not to anyone
outside the immediate family.

BACK HOME
By now, you hare W illiam. H e won'c
help when you think he should
and when he d oes, you feel like
he's getcing in the way. You're
hoping he'll be called out o n an
excensive search and rescue in
JQ2

TATL ER JUNE 20 13

Snowdonia so you can gee on with feeding the


baby in peace. Friends and famil y visic bur
tire pretty quickly of you following them
around with hand sanitiser. At least Carole is
happy to help change nappies, even if she
insists on reminding you thac she's been
through this three rimes herself. Still, chis is
infinitely easier to manage than Camilla
coming over and charring to you as though
nothing has changed. Or giving you tips on
how to get back in che saddle.

EARLY DAYS
You haven'c slept properly for a very lo ng time.
No one is allowed to cell you they're cired. Not
W illiam - even if he has been up all nighc
helping with the baby- and especially nor
Pippa after a nigh t at the Arts Club or a hard
day writing her column for Waitrose. And
her ceeny pert bottom is not improving your
mood when you haven't been able to go to
the gym for fear of being seen as an uncaring
anorexic. The good news is char che four-a-day
Starbucks habic you now have gives you an
endorphin-like high.
Temporarily. And by

around 12 weeks, che baby scares to smile ac


you, magically erasing any desire to jump
from the Kensington Palace sash windows.
You still hare W illiam.

THE CHRISTENING
The baby's chriscening is nor cosy. No maccer
how much you might have wanted a small
family parry in Bucklebury, ic's acnially a H UGE
affair in the Music Room at Buckingham
Palace, jusc like ic was fo r W illiam and C harles
before him. Your hair is look ing a bic raggedy
and your skin has lost its post-pregnancy glow,
but ac least you've found che perfect dress.
Unfortunately, you have to change, because
even though you are wearing sanicary- towelstyle breasc pads, your nipples have leaked and
the baby has puked down your front just before
you get into position for one of che endless
photographs. While W illiam is gecting tipsy
with Beatrice and Eugenie, you're either running
to the loo to feed - you don't want to whip your
cits our in front of Philip and the Archbishop
of Canterbury - o r crying to persuade Zara
and Mike to stop 'hilariously' precending char
the baby is a rugby ball. You still hate W illiam.

;:~~::. A.;:

..'-'" ,::~=\~:.

..

~ ::~;;::.~:

'

....

GEORGIA-MAE TAN NER WEARS COTTON CHRISTENING ROBE, 245, BY LUNN ANTIQUES. FOR STOCKISTS, SEE ADDRESS BOOK. STYLED BY SOPHIE GOODWIN. BABY GROOMING BY ESTHER CHAND LER AT ANGELI & CO , USING ORIGINS. DOG GROOMING
BY STEPHANIE MEHANNAAT THE PET SPA AT HARRODS. FASHION ASSISTANT, KATIE THOMAS. WITH THANKS TO OLIVIA TANNER ; YVONNE BATES ANO IFOR THE CORGI; TINA ANO SARAH PEARCE AND MILLIE THE CORGI; ANO A-Z ANIMALS

l>RI NCIO
f>lllLIP

CAROLE
MIDDLETON

PRINCESS
BEATRICL

TllE PR INCLSS
ROYA L

P I PPA
MIDDLEH>N

' Heh? What?


Oh yes, capital.
Good job I'm
stone deaf
these days.
They're noisy
little blighters.'

'WHOOPEEE!'

' I'm as thrilled


as I was on the
opening night of
Bodo's Schloss.'

'Who cares? We
all knew it was
going to happen.
She's not the
first woman
and she won't
be the last.'

'Yeah , it's great


news. But has it
written a book?
Huh? HAS IT?'

CHRISTMAS

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You are spending Christmas Day with your


parents but you still have to take the baby to
open his/her presents at a C hristmas Eve
lunch at Buckingham Palace. Ar least you've
starred weaning rhe baby. S/he is even content
to sit in a high chair for five minutes before
hurling sweet-potato puree across the table at
the Queen, but screams if you remove che
food. While Harry tries to help by offering
the baby his finger dipped in booze, Prince
Philip has chat stormy look in his eyes and is
making everyone feel rather nervous, so you
have to leave the roo m. Ar least you're nor
breastfeeding any more, so you can go next
door to the White Drawing Room and hit the
horde before everyone comes in to exchange
presents around the Norfolk spruce. Your
presents are all going to be horribly mumsy.
Please do not gee upset. W illiam will gee
round to giving you some sexy underwear
again. Probably when you're in rhe very early
stages of your next pregnancy and you'll want
to choke him with it.

NINE MONTHS
You are over the worse. You've had a relaxed
C hristmas at home and the baby is finally
sleeping more than three hours at a time.
When s/he is nor asleep, s/he will want to
crawl into everything in sight - including the

TnLQUHN

L U PO

'One cannot
be seen to
admit that any
of one's family
has genitalia.
But look what
they can do.
Good show.'

'Woof! Walkies!
Hello! Hello?
What's the big
deal, guys?
I said WALKIES!
Baby schmaby...
Woof.'

ceremonial cannon that are regularly fired for


general amusement- so you might have co
strap him/her into a BabyBjorn as a temporary
straitjacket. Or leave him/ her at home. You
will now be craving some space. Public
engagements might offer some freedom bur
all you really want is to go to the gym. The
30 minutes on a treadmill you've been secretly
doing since rhe baby was six weeks old is not
the same as your old two-hours-a-day
gym-ball and dumbbells circuit. Ideally, you'd
like to ask Carole to look after the baby when
you're nor there, bur W illiam is unlikely to
want his mother-in-law around ALL the time,
so you're going to have to find a nanny you
trust. Good luck.

BABY'S FIRST
BIRTHDAY
You weren't able to plan the wedding or the
christening, so there's no way you're going
to lee this escalate out of your control. You
decide to have some fri ends round to your
parents' house. James has offered to make
a sugar- and gluren-free cake, Pippa's got
some fab centrepiece ideas and H arry's all
overexcited about being the entertainer (we
know how he loves to dress up). Bur the
really good news is that you're starring to
feel broody agai n. Conveniently,
you no longer hare W illiam. D

TllE DUCllESS
OF CORNWALL

'Ruddy
marvellous. I'll
get the spuds
on, shall I? Girl
needs a good
feed. Now, who's
for a stiff gin?'

~ROYAL

BABY SPECIAL

FANCY A PLAYDATE,
PRI NCE(SS)?
Hurrah, I'm pregnant too, says Esther Walker. If I play my cards right, my
little Philip/Henry/George can be the bestest buddy ofthe future king or queen...

e's coo exciting. I'm having


a baby boy chis month.
Yes, EXACTLY - the little
sucker will be only two
months older chan the
future King or Queen of England.
I know! I may as well puc my feec
up and retire now. Ifl scheme and
scheme until I'm sick, I can almost
guarantee chat my child will be
best friends with the future king
or, if Kace has a girl (please, please,
lee ic be a girl), royal consort.
No cime to lose. We muse sell up
in Kentish Town immediately and
move co Kensingcon. Our six-bed
cownhouse can be trad ed in for
a cosy bedsit in thac mansion
block on H igh Screec Kensington
- che one above Argos. Very
convenient for wheeling junior
around the nearby Waicrose and
casually 'bumping' into Kate in
the vegetable aisle.
The bed sit would also be

mega-handy for Kensingcon


Gardens, basically Kace and WiUs's
back garden. Screw ch e rain. I'll
be ouc there in all weathers,
stalking every Silver Cross I spy.
We may also have co purchase a
dog- a black cocker spaniel called
'Ludo' perhaps? I can see the
delicious park-based 'confusion'
in my head already. 'Oh ... is yours
"Lupo"? W hat a terrific
coincidence!' Ha ha.
Names for che child are jusc as
important as names for che dog.
We can'c have anything alarming
like Merlin, Kermie or Piers. It'll
have co be H enry, George or Philip
(too much ?). Now: godparents. I
once bummed a fug off Tom Parker
Bowles outside the Groucho, so
he might do it. Oooh, and I was
ac university w ith a girl who
proofread Celebrate!, poor love,
so she can puc in a good word
with the Middlecons.
Schooling is crucial. Econ or
Marlborough - I'm not fu ssy. fu

every place secured on a I st XI


will be offered. (Another reason
why a London day school is
firmly out - no playing fields.)
He must develop a ruinous
computer-game habit too, so
thac he can bond w ich his royal
playmate's uncle. 'Why are you
doing your homework!?' I w ill
scream at little George-Philip.

BABY'S
MILESTONES

I'll be out there


in all weathers,
stalking every
Silver Cross I spy
long as liccle H enry-Philip doesn't
go to some ghastly 'progressive'
London day school where h e'll
pick up a mockney accent, he'll
be all righc. Although, of course,
the odd common touch is
essential, so thac George-H enry
learns to say 'bog' and 'crapper'
instead of 'coilet' and develops a
caste for ale, Haribo an d killing
small animals.
Talking of which, m y son will
need to be sporty. Cash rewards for

16YEARSOLD

12YEARSOLD

~,
3YEARSOLD

1 YEAR OLD

'Come down here and play FIFA


like a civilised person.'
University has always been
something of a formality with the
royals. Somerimes not even that.
Edinburgh, Bristol and Newcascle
are ouc because they're already
crawling with indiscreet royal
aspirants. And absolucely, definitely
not Oxbridge - nasty, subversive
place full of Marxists. All being
well, H en ry-H en ry won't bother
with university at all and will go
straight to Sandhursc and join
the Army co do something
dangerous and crowd-pleasing,
like working with tanks, horses
and/or Apache helicopters.
With any luck, Philip-H en ry
will now be well in wich the royal
p rince or princess and so a 'media'
figure. A career in che Army will
give him ample opportun ity to
escape to remote places where he
can be rowdy in peace and noc have
it spoil his chances of securing a
hand in marriage (or, ac the very
lease, August on Mustique) .
The only thing left is some work
on myself. So it will be the fasting
diec as soon as H enry-George has
been born, in order to heave my
thighs back into those Zara
skinnies. And I need to throw
away all my edgy neon cloches
and buy only flattering n eutrals.
Yawn. Sadly, I am also going to
have co knock my chewing-gum
habit on che head.
Bue ic'll all be worch ic in che
end, because if the Middleton
story has taught us anything, it is
that geccing ah ead has got
nothing to do with old-fashioned
breeding. You've just got ro have
a mum who WANTS ic. D

Esther Walker's ebook The Bad Cook


is published by the Friday Project
and is available on Kindle.
TATLER JUNE lOll

J05

~ROYAL BABY SPECIAL


ast summer, I bopped
the night away with the
Middletons: juniors and
seniors. Well, when
I say with, it was more
that I danced next to
them. Any attempt to
bump and grind too
intimately with the
Duchess of Cambridge, her sister, her brother,
her mother and her father was met with
a subtle but effective closing of ranks in
the family circle. Because the M iddletons
come as a unit, and despite the fact
that they were happily cutting shapes till
morning (Carole and Michael were
the last grown-ups standing), there was
a certain impenecrability to the group.
Tn fact, although this was the wedding of
their closest family friends - Michael
Middleton gave the bride away - and all
fi ve of them looked as though they were
having a hoot, they d id n't seem to need
the company of others. The M iddleton
clan - or 'the Mids', as they are known
to friends - are, in some ways but not
all, like a traditional Mafioso family:
tight-knit, with a very clear boss. And Carole
is undeniably that boss: matriarch, financial
d irector, fashio n muse, groovy down-with-

the-kids mum and, significantly, chief


grandparent to our focure monarch.
That Carole M iddleton will rule the roost
grandparent-wise seems pretty certain. Just
look at how close she is to Kate. Not simply
mother-daughter close, but best-friend close.
Says one intimate of the Middleton circle:
'Kate and Pip have never experienced those
"Mum, get out of my life" flare-ups that
derange the rest of us. Carole is very much o ne
of the girls.' So Kate still goes down to her
parent's house in Buckiebury a huge amount
(there has been none of chat hurtfol parent
talk of turning your bedroom into a gym or
a room for dogs). She has also carried on

THE
MOTHER
OF THE
YEAR
Carole Middleton - the self-effacing businesswoman
with a backbone-ofBritain work ethic - patently
has a giftfor brilliant parenting. we hope Kate's been
paying attention. By Celia Denison

TA Tl ER Ju NE 201 l

I 07

Left, Kare and Carole Middleton in London


on rhe day before the wedding, 201 1

nicking her mum's clothes: among other


swag, we've seen her in a blue Reiss d ress and
a snappy pink Collette Dinnigan number.
This position - assumed by Kate and her
younger siblings - of teetering on the brink
of the fam ily nest but not quite flying it
makes it very likely that the Cambridge baby
will grow up rwo parts Middleton to one
part W indsor.
But it's not o nly that, as her mother, Carole
is the one who Kate will turn co for help and
advice on raising her own children. Carole's
role is also boosted by the fact that she's the
only grandmother, because, of course, Camilla

won't be blood-related. Moreover, if the


bookies are to be believed - they are giving
odds of one to rwo - and Kate has a girl,
Carole's position will be unshakeable, because
granddaughters and grandmothers are
traditionally as thick as thieves. Which bodes
well for the rest of us, because we can look
forward to an industrious little heir with
impeccable manners and terrifically glossy hair.
Rumours that Carole will be shipped to
Kensington Palace to care for the royal infant
are less credible. One former schoolfriend
of Kate's tentatively suggests that Carole could
move into Kensington Palace immediately
after the baby is born to help. Other friends
think that this is unlikely. 'Carole and
Michael will decamp to their fl at in C helsea
before the baby is due and will, of course,
rush to the hospital the moment she goes
into labour,' says o ne. ' Bur I wouldn't be
surprised ifKate went home to Berkshi re

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for a bit when William's paternity leave is up.'
Ir's nor clear what Carole herself will make
of becoming the most famous grandmother
in the country. She's known for her grooming
(an interest that she's passed on to each one
of her children), health regime ('Bucklebury
thin', thanks to Dr Dukan) and eye for a
well-cue dress so how will the 58year-old deal with
being a grandmother?
Friends of the
brain behind the
Middlerons' firm
Parry Pieces recently valued at
30 million - are clear. 'The thing that no
one seems to gee about Carole is how cosy
she really is. Yes, she looks quite intimidating,
bur no one could be more family-minded.
More of a homebody. She can't wait to be a
grandmother,' says one old pal. 'Although
I don't think you'll be seeing her get a purple
rinse any time soon.'
Carole's inner cosiness has not always
come across, because she's had to develop
such a rough hide. Over the years she has
taken a disproportionate amount of flak:
from complaints about her gum-chewing
at W ill iam's passing-out parade to wilder
theories abouc raking afi:er her upwardly
mobile mother, who was nicknamed Lady
Dorothy. Bur Carole - not known among
her friends for mincing her words - has risen
above the nonsense. 'Of course ic angers
her, enrages her even, bur early on she was
counselled to live by the royal maxim, "N ever
complain, never explain,"' says a fri end.
When Kate and William first got engaged,
and Carole and Michael crocced down to

their garden gate to comment to the crowd


of reporters, she kept her mouth firmly shuc.
She knows that Michael looks more huggable
than her, and she has learned not to give rhe
spiteful any ammunition.
Parry Pieces, though never the sole source
of the Middlerons' income (Michael is the
beneficiary of a
family trust starred
by his grear-greatgrandfather, a
wealthy mill owner
named Francis
Lupton, which
initially paid
the Marlborough
fees), has been more successful than anyone
expected. Founded in the potting shed of the
Middlerons' family home in Berkshire in
1987, the business really muck gold when
it was launched online in the Nineties.
This, so the snotty media commentary has
gone, is an astounding feat for a former air
hostess. Which just goes to show how little
Carole, and the Middlerons generally, are
understood. Forget the royal blood - the

As royal in-laws, the


Middletons,
headed by Carole,
haven't put afoot wrong

strongest strain of hard-working DNA that


the little prince(ss) will inherit will come
directly from the Middlerons. They simply
do things better than the rest of us.
One mother with a daughter in the same
house as Kare at Marlborough remembers:
'There was always something slightly galling
abouc having your children at school with the
Middlerons. Every pristine item of clothing
would have a beaucifully sewn-in name rape,
for instance. Ir was unthinkable that they
would end up resorting to marker pen
on labels like the rest of us. There were huge
picnics at sports day, the smartest tennis
rackets, that kind of thing. Ir made the rest
of us all feel rather hopeless.'
As royal in-laws, the Middletons, headed
by Carole, haven't put a perfectly shod foot
wrong. And odds are that they will ace
it as grandparents too. Yer it won't be a walk
in the park; they are going to have to be
trailblazers, because there have never been royal
grandparents like the Middlecons. Their lack
of a tide (the only other royal grandfather to a
future monarch in the past millennium nor to
have a ride was rhe father of Edward IV's wife

The warning signs are there already. 'I can't wait to


be an uncle.' said Prince Harry, flashing a sly grin
when asked about the royal baby back in December.
Of course he can't. He's going to be the naughtiest
uncle since Uncle Gary.
Like most public-school men, Uncle Harry
will be nervous of the royal baby to begin with a bit cack-handed . Sure, he can manoeuvre an
Apache helicopter in Afghanistan , but he'll
struggle with the royal baby and let its head flop
around like a drunk's. 'Watch the neck!' Her
Majesty will command.
Naughty Uncle Harry will instead bond with the
royal baby when it's a toddler and he teaches it to
burp the alphabet. He'll also tell the royal baby it
doesn't need to eats its peas, because vegetables
are for ' nancy boys'.
There will be an unfortunate incident at Trooping the Colour when the royal baby is three
and sticks its tongue out at the visiting King of Malaysia - which will be largely blamed on
Uncle Harry. But the King of Malaysia will be very gracious about it, and the royal baby will
be sent to bed without any supper.
Later on , Uncle Harry's influence will be suspected when the royal baby is photographed
playing in Kensington Palace Gardens dressed up in Wellington boots and a cowboys
and Indians costume. The Palace will swiftly quash outrage by issuing an apology to all
American Indians.
Naturally, the royal baby will adore Naughty Uncle Harry (even though he sometimes
smells a bit beery). It will particularly like the moments when Uncle Harry pulls faces at boring
grown-up events and passes him Haribo Tangfastics in church. The royal baby won't mind
one bit being wheeled out every now and then for Uncle Harry's blonde friends to coo over.
After all, one day it will quite want some naughty cousins to play with . Sophia Money-Coutts

TATLE R JU NE 201 3

109

Elizabeth - he was eventually given an


earldom, however) is really the least of it.
But as Richard Kay points out, Carole
alread y has a head start in recent history.
'She isn't a divorcee. Diana's mother,
Frances Shand Kydd, was divorced , and
so was Susan Barrantes, the Duchess of
York's mum. But I think the big
difference is that neither Shand Kydd
nor Barrantes had any formal role not least because the former lived on the
Isle of Skye and the latter in Argentina.
I see Carole dropping into Kensington
Palace regularly and often having
William, Kate and the baby coming ro
stay in Bucklebury at weekends.'
The crucial point is that the
wholesome, functional and united
Middleton unit already plays an
unprecedented role in the day-ro-day
lives of the Cambridges, and, as

The strongest strain


ofhard-working
DNA that the little
prince(ss) will
inherit will come
from the Middletons
such, will assume a uniquely important
positio n fo r the royal baby.
Ultimately, Carole has played a blinder
as a mother. Not only are all of her
child ren unfairly good-looking, they
are also famously charming. Always the
first to write a thank-you letter, they
dance all night and are still the first up
in the morning, plumping cushions
and washing up. If our future king or
queen is even hal f as well raised, may
we all be truly thankful. 0

MEET THE OTHER


The Cambridges' besties and - more to the point - their tots

GERALD & ALICE


AVENEL

ANDREW & EDWINA


CHARLTON

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Number of sprogs One


Rose, nearly a year old
Alice and Kate are friends from their days

Number of sprogs One, due in August


Andrew was at Ludgrove and Eton with
W illiam. Edwina - Eddie to her mates -

at Marlborough. Alice teaches; Gerald is

went to university at Edinburgh and used

French and a trader at Merrill Lynch . Rose

to let William crash in her flat when he

will be less than a year older than the royal

came down for the odd night out from

offspring, so Alice can advise on buggies

St Andrews. The couple are based in

:f

and Babygros. Plus, Gerald's chateau

Singapore (he's a property man over

offers refuge if the Cam bridges want to

there; she's a solicitor), so they'll be useful

escape with a couple at a similar stage.

for the odd sunny holiday.

z
0

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TOM & HARRIET


SUITON

WENTWORTH & VANESSA


BEAUMONT

oc

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Number of sprogs One

Number of sprogs One

George, nine months

Due in the autumn

Tom was at school with William (who was

Wentworth ('Wenty') is heir to Viscount

an usher at the couple's Wiltshire wedding


in 201 1). but it's Harriet who will be a font

Allendale. He and Vanessa married in


2011 and have William and Kate to stay on

of post-pregnancy girlie advice for Kate.


She's glossy and known particularly for

his family estate in Northumberland. She's


a literary agent; he specialises in old

her splendid tresses, so she can help

masters at Simon Dickinson - and will

Kate at that freaky moment when a new

therefore be able to help the royal baby tell

mother's hair starts falling out.

its da Vincis from its van Eycks.

?iu

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0

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~ROYAL

BABY SPECIAL

PARENTS
will be part ofBritain's smartest baby club. By Luciana Bellini

TED & TRINI


FOY LE

HARRY & LAURA


LOPES

HARRY & ROSIE


MEADE

Number of sprogs One


Alexander, 18 months
Trini is one of Kate's oldest, closest pals

Number of sprogs Three


Eliza, five, twins Gus and Louis, three
Harry, a former Calvin Klein underwear

Number of sprogs One


Lily Florence, 18 months
All seen together skiing in Switzerland in

from Marlborough. Often photographed


at Kate's side looking fiercely protective,

model, is an accountant; Laura is the


Duchess of Cornwall's daughter. Eliza was

March. Kate sensibly stayed off the


slopes and schlepped Rosie's nappy bag

she knows better than anyone how to


deal with Kate when she's feeling

the tiniest of the bridesmaids at the royal


wedding . As the creative co-founder of

around for her instead . Rosie is a


primary-school teacher. Champion event

vulnerable. They often talk motherhood in

Belgravia-based Eleven Fine Art gallery,

rider Harry will be able to teach the royal

Kensington Gardens while Trini pushes


Alexander in his pram.

Laura can help with finger-painting. And


making necklaces from pasta shells.

baby how to clamber onto a horse before


it's even talking.

HUGH & ROSE


VAN CUTSEM

SAM &BELLA
WALEY-COHEN

LORD & LADY


FREDERICK WINDSOR

Number of sprogs Three

Number of sprogs One

Number of sprogs One, due in August.

Grace, five, Rafe, four, and Charles,


18 months

Max, two months


Sam is an amateur jockey (amateur in the

Although they are royal relations anyway


(Freddie's parents are Prince and Princess

William was usher at Hugh and Rose's


wedding in 2005. Daughter Grace was

professional sense - he has won the


Cheltenham Gold Cup) and entrepreneur.

Michael of Kent), Sophie and Kate have


become friends in recent years. Freddie

a bridesmaid at the royal wedding. Rose


founded Maggie & Rose, the Kensington
club for babies and children - so she'll be

But his real passion is charity. Since


his brother Thomas died in 2004, Sam has
raised money for children's hospitals. So

and Sophie are based in LA but come


home regularly, so Kate will have a fellow
new mum at official gatherings. They will

full of ideas for how Kate can keep her


royal todd ler occupied .

he can offer advice on suitable charitable


projects for the little heir.

most likely be found huddled behind a pillar


together, breastfeeding .

TATLER JUNE 1013

III

On the balcony. Qf
Bucki ngham Palace
during d~ Queen's
Jubilee, 2012

'Those were the


days, darling! '

vs

'So that's it, then?'


2006

f]l

hey say that moving house and having


a new baby are two of the most
stressful things you can do in life. The
D uke and Duchess of Cambridge are do ing
both this year - although their stress might
not be quite as acute as yours or mine under
the same circumstances.
But what is proving truly
challenging, even for a prince,
is the decision W illiam
is struggling to make over
his future.

New home plus new baby equals ALL


CHANGE ... But does that mean the fun will
come to a shuddering halt? By Penny Junor
For months now, he has been wavering over
what to do when his three-year stint as a
search-and-rescue pilot comes to an end in the
autumn. Should he hang up his flying boots,
or commit ro three more years of service?
Should he move to another branch of the
Armed Forces, or leave the military
altogether? And if so, should he take
up royal duties full-time, or carry
o n fi tting them in with some
other kind of day job? Something
commercial (tricky - full of bear traps,
as Prince Edward d iscovered), a
charitable venture or a position like
a governor generalship?
As father to third-in-line-to-the-th rone,
he will have new responsibilities; should he
be thinking of a less dangerous way of li fe?
His grandparents have not been well
recently. Ifhe took up royal duties fu ll-time,
as some inside the Royal Household have

suggested, it would help ease the pressure on


the Queen and Prince Philip. W illiam has
consulted widely both inside and outside che
fam ily and Kate has been pare of the decisionmaking, bur don't be misled: chis is W illiam's
choice, and his alone. The Duke listens to
advice - and is always scrupulously police -

The Queen hardly


dared venture
into Charles's nursery
bur he is ulcimacely the one who calls the
shots. H e is determined, above all else, ro
be in control of his life. C urrently, nor even
his closest advisers will cell me which way
he might finally jump. An answer has been
promised several times this year, and then
pushed back again. I am now told it will come

~ ROYAL BABY SPECIAL

SHOULD GIRLS
INHERIT?
The nitty-gritty at the heart ofthe succession debate

Well, it kind of is broke,


and it would be pointless to
change the law of succession governing
the monarchy bur leave ocher hereditary
ti cles to carry on favouring men. T he monarch y
has provided a timely baby fo r both issues to
be tackled together. Many peers surveyed by
Tader agreed that girls should be allowed to inherit
but only ' in the absence of a son'. In terms of
sexism, this is scarcely better.

lt sounds extremely
alarming, a bit
1789. Won't enforc ing it
cause mayhem?

at some po int this su mmer.


O ne can forgive him for d ragging his
feet. H e loves the job he's doing, and his
An glesey life. H e has seldom been
happier. Tucked away on the north-west
coast of Wales, he can delude h imself
that he is a no rmal guy, going out
to work each day and coming home to
their little farm house. T he ubiquitous
police protection o fficers are inevitably
on hand b ut the only help the cou ple
have in the house is a part-time cleaner.
It's a continuation, in some ways, of the
happy, relatively private life they lived
while at un iversity in St Andrews. And
soon there will be the baby to make che
idyll complete.
Whatever W illiam decides, in some
ways the baby will be the biggest
life-changer of all. Time was, in royal
households, when the arrival of a baby

After its fi rst read ing, the bill has co clear


two other readings and a committee stage in
the Lords, before three readings and a committee stage in
the Commons. If it's going ro happen, it'll be law chis time
next year. 'Why on earth muse we pull our forelocks in the birthing
centre and agree that our newborn daugh ter must go to the back of
the queue when it comes to the fam ily silver?' says one supporter,
Victoria Lambert. Otherwise known as the Countess of
Clancarcy, she is campaigning so chat her daughter,
Rowena - her only child - can carry
Say thi ngs are
changed - what
on the tide.
happens when the fragrant
Rowena marries M r Smith.
Won't that tide be lost fo rever?
And what about
Baby Smith?

TATLER JUNE 2013

Il3

London or rhe country - W illian1 and Harry's


realm was the nursery, which was on the
top fl oor in both houses and comprised
bedrooms, bathrooms, playrooms, a kirchen
and a dining room. The boys had all their
meals up there with their nannies, police
prorecrion officers and drivers. T hey played
there, bathed there, slept there; and it would
be into the nanny's bed that William, as
a toddler, would climb for an early-morning
cuddle, before going to his mother's
bed dow nstairs.
Kate's experience of growing up happily
and securely in a middle-class fan1 ily could,
obviously, not have been more different.
There were no staff and no nannies and rhe
normaliry of their household is something
that William has always enjoyed. As one
of his fri ends says, 'If you want to understand
Willian1, his relationship with rhe Middletons
is the beginning and end of it. H e likes

made little practical difference. There were


nurses and nannies to give the night feeds,
soothe colicky tummies and teething pain,
change nappies and wheel the pram.
In the late Forties, the Queen - or Princess
Elizabeth, as she then was - was so intimidated
by Charles's authoritarian nanny, Helen
Lightbody, that she hardly dared venrure into
the nursery. (Although 'No-Nonsense
Lightbody', as she can1e to be known, was
fired when C harles was eighr for overruling
a pudding the Queen had ordered for the
little prince.)
Diana, in the Eighties, had no such qualms
with William's nanny, Olga Powell, but he
too spent the bulk of his rime in the nursery.
She atrempred ro involve C harles in W illian1's
nigh t-time bath (which cut short his working
day, much to the fury of his private secretary),
bur neither of them were ever fully hands-on.
Wherever Diana and Charles were - in

NOMINATIVE DETERMINISM

.___ IT'S A ... BOY


--.

They will share nappy


duty and learn to
function on next to no
sleep at night

WHAT WILL T HE LITTLE TYK E


BE PUSH E D AROU DI N?

THE BUGABOO

THE SILVER CROSS. PREFERABLY


A HAND-ME- DOWN BALMORAL

A - LISTER AT THE
CHRISTEN! G?

THOUGHTS O N SCHOOLS?

ETON
OF C OURSE

DAVID
BEC KllAM

HOME-T U TORED

ALEXANDER

CHARLES

Nothing phases
Xander. He has
the common touch
- or at least he
thinks he does.
And he touches
everything.
All the time. Every
opportunity. And
they bloody love
it. Thank God
for Leveson.

Charles has lots


Oh no, James has
taken Archbis hop
of friends. Imagina ry
ones. He also puts
Tutu down again. He
on shows. And plays
s hows his affection
all the parts himself.
and respect through
He finds the royal
rugby tackling. And
balcony pant-wettingly no one ever sees
him coming . A very
terrifying. So his
devoted nanny
affable wrecking ball,
(he is 23) gives
he once
h;m ,,.,_
~ p;,~oo ,;,

JAMES

':J

blockrn.

'

f!!J~

ra"lmow" ' "

them: they're happy, and they're nice,


srraigh rforward people.' W illian1 and Kare
have not yer advertised for a nanny and ir
would be consistent with their attitude and
their life so far to want to look after their baby,
as much as they can, by themselves. They
enjoy life without flunkies. They have lived
very simply in Anglesey. I will be surprised if
William and Kate even have a formal nursery.
They will be hands-on, sharing nappy duty
and learning to function, as most of us do, on
(what feels like) next to no sleep at night.
And yet, at the end of the year, they're
moving into the heart of Kensington Palace
and their first real home: Apartment la,
where Princess Margaret lived. It has five
bedrooms, rhree reception rooms and a walled
garden. It marks a significant chan ge in their
lives. The palace will be a place to live first
and foremost, but grand enough for official
entercaining too. And - there's no avoiding
the matter - they will need staff to help
run ir, although, so far, the only person they
have been looking for is a housekeeper.
The positio n was advertised internally at the

WILL.I.AM

BRAMLEY
Bram.LE is
pioneering a new
music genre that
blends the sitar
with electroclash.
And Bram.LE is
constantly
searching for
thrilling new ways
to broaden his
mind . It's all for his
art, you see.

beginning of the year fo r someone prepared


to turn their hand to just about anything: to
cook, clean, polish silver, drive, act as a
personal assistant and no d oubt walk the dog
and keep an eye on the newest m ember of the
family when asked.
IfW illian1 opts for another tour in search
and rescue, he will most likely be sent
to RAF Lossiemourh in Moray in the north
of Scotland, which was his second choice
after RAF Valley in Anglesey. Kensington
Palace will be a London base, but the
fan1ily home will be in another small,
remote community and would demonstrate
W illiam and Kate's craving for a few more
years of normal life. The job W illiam does
is skilled, dangerous and satisfying- not
something char can be said about every
royal visit. For someone who was trained
for combat, but whose position means he
is unlikely ever to be allowed to fight on
the froncline, search and rescue has been the
perfect solutio n.
And, as a senior member of his household
points out, it has also, crucially, allowed
W illiam to hit his personal goals. From that
spring self-confidence and self-belief, so that
20 or 30 years down the line he will be able to

~ROYAL

SHOULD GIRLS
INHERIT: POLL

BABY SPECIAL

NOMINATIVE DETERMINISM

IT'S A ... GIRL

Taller has asked over 100 titled folk,


and the results of

our exclusive survey are ...

YES98%

WlllCll BRAND WILL KATE CllOOSE


FOR HER MINI -ME?

N029{)

BRIGHT RED OSI-I KOSH CORDS

(We can't tell you who the 2% are, but

they deserve a jolly good spanking)

look anyone and everyone in rhe eye. T har's


imporranc for rhe man who will one day be
Colonel-in-Chief of rhe Armed Forces.
Anorher rhree-year rour of dury, wherher
on Sea Kings, wirh rhe Royal Navy or wirh
rhe Blues and Royals, would posrpone rhe
evil hour when he and Kare have to join
rhe unreal world of protocol thar inevirably
awaits. It would give them a chance to get to
know their baby before full-time royal duties
make rheir diaries packed and inflexible, and
rhey are forced to employ ochers to run their
home. William was allowed to enjoy a
near-normal childhood and treasures it. It is
unchinkable that he would wane his baby to
have anything less. Kare could be a sray-arhome morher, and, aparr from rhe occasional
engagemenr, enjoy her baby's flrsr few years.
There is plenry of time in rhe future fo r her to
immerse herself in public service but, as rhey
both know, rhose first formative years in a
child's life never come again.

Prince William: Born To Be King by Penny Junor


ispublished by Hodder & Stoughton at 20.

y ACCESSORIES?

l
STURDY BLU E
START-RITES

BABY GAP

~ llE NAPPY BAG?

l
TEE Y-TINY
LK BENNETTS

A BACKPACK

MONOGRAMMED
GOYA RD

ELIZABETH

PHILLY

SKY

As a newborn,

Philly has excellent

Ever since Sky

They bought her a VW

Elizabeth never
made a fuss,
even with a nappy

hair, always sends her


thank-you letters on

Polo for her 17th


birthday but she
refused to eat until it

horribilis. She is
tremendously
sensible, except

guidance from Granny


Carole. We do not
need to worry in the

streaked across a
duck drive at
Sandringham,
she's been

when it comes to
her crush on
Prince AristidisStavros of

slightest about this


one. She is also Uncle
Harry's
favourite

time and takes

(course
she is).

Greece and
Denmark.

TOPAZ OAK

banned
from
sporting
events.
Her gap year went
on a bit. In fact,
no one's quite sure
where she is ...

was swapped for a


Range Rover
Evoque.Grandpapa
Charles choked on
his scotch egg
when she arrived at
Ascot in Herve Leger
- she had been,
ummm , enhanced.

THE SUCCESSION REVOLUTIONARIES


LADY LIZA

'ERR

SEY

He's quite the


wild card ,

Lady Clare is
the elder

Will Villiers has


three little girls

Lucas have

Lord Dubs.
His 2004

daughter of the
Marquess of

growing up at
his family pad

long been
pioneers

glamorous
artist Lady

Succession to
the Crown Bill

Lothian , the
Tory politician

of gender
equality. From the off

Liza Campbell. She's


not after the family

was the first to propose that


women should be allowed

Michael Ancram, who


has no sons. Instead,

title (her younger brother


is the Earl of Cawdor).

to inherit the crown on


the same terms as men -

the title will go to her


uncle (who does). Although

in Jersey,
Radier Manor.
But will one of them inherit
it? Nope. Instead it'll go to
William's half-brother.
'My heir is my half-brother,

(1663), the title has been


allowed to go to girls in the
absence of a son. 'My
grandmother and mother

Even if girls were


allowed to inherit, she
would have lost out to

but the Lords brayed 'nay'


and it was withdrawn.
Still, he keeps on trucking

she's not interested in


the title for herself, she
does think that the

and in my eyes that


isn't right. He hasn't
grown up surrounded

always fought for equality,


so it's in the blood,' says the
current Lord Lucas, Ralph,

her older sister. But


it's a matter of fairness,
she insists.

with the issue, and for


Catholics to be able to

aristocracy is now
'two steps behind' the

by the history, as my
daughters have,' says

inherit too. Imagine!

Royal Family.

the Earl.

who's behind the hereditary


peerages bill soon to be
debated in the Lords. D

'Blood flows in
women's veins
too,' says

The Lords

TATLER JUNE 2013

115

IN FOREGROUND.
SILK & FLOCKED-VELVET
EVENING DRESS
WITH CAPE BACK &
GLASS BEADING. POA.
BY GIAMBATTISTA
VALLI HAUTE COUTURE
SILK HEELS. 440. BY
MANOLO BLAHNIK GOLD.
DIAMOND & ORANGE- &
YELLOW-SAPPHIRE
EARRINGS (JUST VISIBLE),
19,842, BY CHAUMET.
IN BACKGROUND,
SILK-JACQUARD EVENING
COAT WITH CAPE BACK,
METALLIC THREAD &
LEAF EMBROIDERY. POA. BY
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
HAUTE COUTURE.
SILK HEELS. 440, BY
MANOLO BLAHNIK.
WHITE-GOLD, DIAMOND &
TANZANITE RING (ON
BOTH HANDS). 43,722,
BYCHAUMET

Il6 TATLER JUNE 2013

GILET, POA. SILK


HALTERNECK TOP, POA,
PLEATED SILK-GEORGETTE
SKIRT WITH METALLICLAMINATE & PLEXIGLAS
INSERTS, POA; GOLD
CHAIN BELT, POA, ALL
BY ATELIER VERSACE

THIS P14GE. GROSGRAIN


WAISTCOAT. S IL K SKIRT
WITH PIPE-ORGAN PLEATS;
SLIGHTLY FLARED
SILK-SAT IN PANTS;
SILK-JACQUARD. PATENT &
RESIN HEELS. BAMBOO.
CORAL & ENAMELLEDMETAL NECKLACE, ALL
MADE TO ORDER. BY
ARMANI PRIVE
OPPOSITE PAGE.
EMBROIDERED JEWEL
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SILK-MIKADO PANTS;
METAL & ROCK-CRYSTAL
CABOCHON EARRINGS
WITH HORN; SWAROVSKlCRYSTAL & METAL
PENDANTS, ALL MADE TO
ORDER . BY ARMANI PRIVE

EMBROIDERED
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POA: LEATHER P UMPS
WITH ANKLE STRAP (JUST
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BY ELIE SAAB HAUTE
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SEQUINNED ORGANZA
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WITH CHIFFON FLOWERS,
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TWEED & PYTHON
THIGH-HIGH BOOTS (IN
BACKGROUND). POA,
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HAUTE COUT URE.
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& LACQUER EARRINGS,
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IN FOREGROUND,
EMBROIDERED-TULLE
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HEELS. POA. BOTH
BY VALENTINO

HAUTE COUTURE
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EMBROIDERED-TULLE
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FLARED SATl<f.CREPI!
DRESS EMBROIDERED
WITH SEQUINS & BEADS IN
FLORAL PATTERN. P0A. BY
CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE

.
~

,,,

ORGANZA & SILK-TULLE


DRESS EMBROIDERED WITH
CRYSTALS & GOlD THREAD.
ORGANZA. TULLE &
FEATHER STOlE-llKE TOP.
POA: BOOTS. AS BEFORE
ALL BY CHANEL HAUTE
COUTURE. WHITE-GOlD,
DIAMOND. BLACK-SPINEL
& PINK- & PURPLE-SAPPHIRE
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FINE JEWELLERY

THj PAGE, Ei'.'!.~REO~~;~~~~


EVENING DRE SS, POA;
GQl,_D CUFF, POA, BOTH BY
blOR HAUTE COUTURE
OPPOSITE PAGE,
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BUSTIER. POA. BOTH BY
DIOR HAUTE COUTURE.
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SY DIOR JOAILLERIE
FOR STOCl<IS'lli, SEE
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MIUER. MODEL,
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'

""

.
.
\

APOCALYPSE
OR

AMOCKALYPSE?
British summertime - is it really a
<weather event' heralding planetary doom?
Or are we getting just a bit too hot
under the collar about global warming?
WOrdr by NICOLA S HU LMAN

hour 20 years ago , a you ng


staff wricer on one of chis
m
. agazine's rivals p roduced
a piece abour a new
phenomenon: celebricy
environmencalism . Back
then, a day never passed withou t some
well-incencioned royal, pop singer or Tc girl
u nloading cheir Prada luggage in che
Amazonian rainforest in order co save jaguars,
cleanse soil, plane crees, cap carbon, raise
awareness of global warming and generally
gee environmental on yo' ass, as we had
noc then learned co call ic. Scing and Trudie,
the Prince of Wales, the M archioness of
Worcester, Bono, Bob Geldof - they were all
ac ic. Good, kind Dame Ani ca Roddick flew
a cribal chief co her Body Shop headquarters,
where h e raised large funds co ease ch e p ligh t
of h is people and complained abour the
indignicy of wearing Western cloches. In my
recolleccion, he lacer absconded wich the
money and bought hi mself an aerop lane,
which killed hi m when he crashed ; bur I can
find no allusion co this in any source.
Reader, I was chac writer an d shared the
views of mosc people: char wh ile the celeb ricy
posturing was embarrassing, cheir cause was
mainly good. Spool forward, years and years,
co che nascier, scepcical, cynical world of March
201 3. Li ly Cole's in rhe Amazon for Ruperc
Murdoch's Sky TV, and I am ac C rispin Odey's
Mayfair office fo r che launch of a book called
The Age ofGlobal Warming: A History, by the
Centre for Policy Scudies pundit Ru perc
Oarwall. Odey's offices are nor whac you might
expect from an incernacionally celebrated
hedgefund manager. H ere be no spin paincings,

J2 8

TA TL ER JUNE 2013

gold Kaces, silver Marilyns or ocher b ling you can


price ac 100 feet wich shad es on, hue recessive
and muscardy compositions by (largely) deceased
RAs. In the nobly proportioned receptio n room
where ch e parry is hap pening, chere hangs a
fa inc air o f C hristmas d rinks somewhere gran d
in Lincolnshire: the liver-pace canapes are in
circulatio n and there is Corron-Charlemagne,
H au t- Brion '9 1 and tinned orange juice on
the cable.
Odey, who is known co his workforce as 'ch e
Fae Controller', has mounced a worryingly small
chair co deliver h is speech. Tc's a very good speech
of che cype perfected by Boris Johnson, where the
speaker shows an in fu riacing lack of reverence for

The celebrity posturing


was embarrassing,
their cause mainly good
his own manifest in celleccual g ifts. Rearing
over che th rong, he ranges d efcl y chrough Karl
Popper, Malthus, Edmund Burke. H e p raises
Darwal l's book for ics equable even-handed ness,
ics unbiased handling of che hiscory, ideology,
policies and economic and political consequen ces
of global warming. O arwall's b ook, he says,
doesn't cell us what co chink, doesn't deny
or affirm man- made global warming, bur ic
shows how the incegricy of sciencific d iscipline
is undermined when it is put ac che service o f
political ideology. H e couches on how the
cosc co ch e West and co che develop ing world
is eno rmous, the benefi cs unproven, and how
ic makes no sense for us, in a Aac econom y,
unilaterally and expensively co reduce our carbon

emissions when China and India have refused


co do che same. In che crowd, Lord Lamont
nods his appreciation. We are all chinking whac
a serious fellow Crispin is after all - and then
he goes and spoils ic all by saying something...
well, something like: 'Watching Rupert d ealing
wich chese problems is like watching Ralph
Norchumberland nailing very high, swirling
pheasants in a circling wind: more than
impressive, informative and subtly uplifting.'
Then Darwall speaks, saying every lirerary
agent turned him down. A number of people
go up to Nairn Acrallah, che publisher, co
congratulare and thank him for his courage.
Suddenly, a sense of confederacy is present in
che room. An incense gentleman introduces
himself as Mrs Thatcher's one-rime
environmental-policy adviser. When I tell him
I am going co write something, he produces a
riny paper label and reads off some numbers
wricten there in a minure, academic hand.
'Ask chem this. 1945 co 1975: minus
point two degrees. Write it down. Why did
temperatures fall between 1945 and 1975?
When all the heavy industry of East Germany
and che Soviet bloc was pouring out coal
smoke. Ask chem char.'
Them ? Who are 'th em'? Does he mean
environmental activists? And if there is a
'them', does chat mean that we, here, d rinking
Odey's whire Burgundy, are 'us'? Ts chis
parry actually a political cell?
If ie is, it's a pretty rum one. In che room
there are some big-C Conservative wonks,
commencators and the like, but it's a pretty

Left, Lucy
Ewing at the
Rainforest

Right, Mark Shand,


Sophia McEwen,
Christopher Brooks
and Tmran Khan at
a charity cricket
march in aid of the

130

TATLE R JUNE 2013

Mavroleon and,
below, Anastasia
Marsaglia at l 989's
Rainforest Ball,

mixed bunch of invitees:


art dealers, bankers,
distinguished economises,
socialites, country
people. I can see Trinny
and Susannah, some
young Guinnesses, a
couple of giraffe-long
beauties who are
obviously models. H ere
are Rose Cholmondeley,
the chatelaine of
Houghcon Hall, and Peter
'Swingometer' Snow, whose
cousin Jon Snow, a media
liberal of high degree, has
supplied an ecsraric cover quote
for rhe book. H ere is a person said co be 'che
only man you need if you want co get elected',
bur sadly I didn't carch his name.
As an exercise in social demographics,
I should say char this gathering represen ts a
shifr in the arrirude towards global-warming
orthodoxy. Fifreen years ago, if anyone
question ed che wisdom of unilateral carbon
capping or green energy, you would know
w ichour looking char they were staffers on Top
Gear. As a respo nsible person, you narurally
subscribed co a general class of good efforts
like recycling litter, planting native trees,
farm ing organically, conserving h abitats and
so on. But now concroversy and unintended
consequences have worked rheir confusion,
so that wh ac seemed a coherem 'sec' of
principles has disintegrated and even, in some
cases, proved mutually incomparible. The use
ofbiofuels, for instance, has begun co cause
che problems it was supposed to prevent, such
as political insrability (in respon se co rising
food prices in, fo r example, Tunisia and
Egypt) and loss of biodiversity in places like
Malaysia and Indonesia. T he u pshor is that
a growing number of people who'd take a
bullet for a b lack rhinoceros would now not
think it illogical co hurl themselves under a

Minogue at
l 992's Rainforest

Ball. Right,
Antonia de

wind-turbine transporter. To speak only of


parties: three days afrer Darwall's book
launch, some of his gu ests were listening co
che Prince of Wales, as beamed remotely
co screens throughout the marquee, ar a benefir
for che protection of the crested buckler fern.
A mild case of climate agnosticism, it seems,
is no longer the preserve of the purple-faced
squire or tin-helmet creationist, but has become
che defaulr position of what o ne might call che
Tat/er-reading classes, who have old associations
w ich ecosystems, wh o take a lon g view of
changes in che weath er, who are fed up w ith
being told to be afraid and what to chink. As
the grear Mart (now Viscount) Ridley- a man
in equal parts science writer, landowner and
fisherman - has said, 'we are apocoholic'.
We are addicted to rhrears of gathering
catastrophe: ' Populatio n explosion, global
famine, plagues, warer wars, oil exhausrion ...
Y2K bugs, mad cows, killer bees, sex-change
fish, climate cacascrophes' have all been
promised co deliver hell and, indeed, high
water, bur on the whole th ey h ave not.
W hat's changed? Well, first, we all got
poorer. T here is more sympathy for Darwall's
point chat 'energy policies were all dreamed up
when times were good , and now the economy
is flat we shouldn't be walloping it with green
taxes', given that rhe science is still speculative.
Then th ere's che stickiness of che globalwarming debare itself. Ts global warming
man-made? Is rhe world even warming? Like
most people, I have no idea. Peep inco chis
debate for clarification and what you gee is
scientists abusing one another in the language
of the Reformation, both sid es crying
self-interest and mendacity. C limate sceptics
are all in the pay of big oil and rhe fossil-fuel
industry; 'H a!' say the climate sceptics. 'What

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abour che cacaraccs of government money


sloshing in co green energy and research rhac
validates rhe need for it?'
Beliefs are fervently held. When a senior
American climacologisc announced char
warming had stopped 15 years ago, she was
said co have 'lose her way' and co be 'lose in
den ial', which is pretty much whac Sir
Thomas More said about Marcin Luther.
Bue che basis of che science is still in dispute,
as a swift visit to the climate blogosphere
will attest: a terrifying realm of acrimony
and defamatio n, where geek rams unto
geek of statistical illiteracy, model-tweaking,
graph-falsifying, hiding inclines, h iding
declines, algorithmic ineprirude and of being
rhe wrong type of scientist to understand
rhe science.
Where does this leave rhe rest of us who
are no kind of scientist, except wirh a sh iver
of vague unease chat we might be where we
were with the banks in 200 5 - in rhe sense
rhac something is happening that affects us
all and we are nor sure if anyone understands
how it works? And as we grope our way to
bed in che gloaming of rhe energy-saving bulb,

'Globle warming? Don't


make me laugfa.
Freezing nuts ojj here'

hour, until it is no longer a forecast bur


more a case oflooking om of che window;
meanwhile, all traces of rh e old, wrong
forecast have been expunged from the record,
like faces in Stalin's photograph album. T here
are six weather apps on my phone, including
char of the Met Office, and on most days rhey
would be outwitted by a piece of seaweed.
Few things are more annoying co a climate
scientist than hearing what I was just about
ro write: 'And so... how do rhey know what's
going co happen in 2050 when they don't
know what it'll be like on Friday?' Annoying
or nor, ic is what people chink. I am writing
this on a very cold day in Budget week. North
of Warminster, it's snowing hard and, from
lnverary co Ashford, what oft was thought,
bur ne'er so well expressed as 'Globle warming
d on't make me laugh. Freezing our nu cs off
here end of. Dave2 l 7, Corby' is che subject
du jour at the d inner table.
T his cuts no ice, so co speak, with
environmentalists, who become very frosty
at the mere mention of the word weather.
C limate and weather are not the same, they
say derisively, as if you'd observed co Stephen
H awking rhac rhe moon was retrograde in
the house of Pisces. C limate models work
where weather forecasts do n't because, as
every primary-school pupil knows, they are
totally different. An d yet, for those of us
who notice these things, it is clear chat even

we chink: 'Was it for chis chat the lamps grew


grey? Was it for this the turbines grew rail?'
This brings me co anorher reason why
scepticism is beg inning co sercle on t he
Tat/er-reading classes: the weather. Regular
attendees of country weddings, race meets,
Fourths ofJune or any of chose ocher English
social events involving chin d resses and
distant car parking will cell you bluntly if it's
been warm lately. le has not. T hey'll also cell
you ic's not thac unusual. In the past 12
months, a w retched summer preceded a dull,
mild C h ristmas and a cold late winter, in a
pattern char has been taking the English by
surprise for at lease 400 years, as all readers
of'country house' liceracure, like
biographies and d iaries, well know.
Then there's che perperual thorn of
weather forecasti ng. Expensive ad vances in
supercomputers and meceo-mod ellers have
had no discernible effect on its accuracy in
rhe shore or long cerm. As an obsessive
consumer of weather d ata, I am able co cell
you rhat most agencies are almost criminally
incompetent, all giving d ifferent readings
for the same place and serially u nable
ro pred ict the weather two days in advance.
Guinness and the
Marchioness
Also, they change their forecasts hour by
of Cholmondeley

humble weather, when promoted co something


called a 'wearher event', can be 'climate' when
it suits the argument. 'Weather even cs', unlike
weather, are active proof of global warming.
Not everyone is so confusi ng. 'Climate
and weather? Same thing really.' T he speaker
is Piers Corbyn, genius-haired astrophysicist,
Boris Johnson's favourite weather fo recaster,
brother of very left-wing M P Jeremy and
the place where climate and wearher meet. He
has emerged, looking beleaguered , from his
offices o n Borough High Srreec, co have coffee
with me. H is Weatheraction sire is one of a
number of independent forecasting agencies
that have arisen as a consequence of the Mee
Office's inability co predict in rhe medium
range. Most of his subscribers are farmers,
desperate co know when three dry days will
come cogecher.
There are many refreshing rhings about
C orbyn (though his jumper coday is not one
of them). For instance: the way he posts
his detailed 30-day forecast on the fi rst of
the month and chen leaves it, so you can see
where his bees go awry. H e got November and
some of February completely wrong, bur
sometimes, he's spectacularly right: he foresaw
the green C hristmas of2012 and the switch,
co the day, to rhe lacer cold. H e identified the
single coldest day in January from a vantage
point of four weeks. H e thinks the world
is getting cooler, which makes h im unpopular
with the generality of climate scientists;
however, he is robusc and, as a good exTrocskyice, he meets the 'cabal' and 'd enier'
rhetoric of his CONTINUED ON PAG E 165

Above, Roddy
Campbell and
Crispin Odey.
Beww right, Nairn
Atrallah. Beww
left, Piers Corbyn
on a TV char
show, 20 12

SURRENDER
Thoughts ofsex. Dreams of cars. Resounding
one-man choruses of 'F**Kt
How Brian Sewell sees off the indignities that
sneak up on everyone in their 80s ...
rowing old is the mosr
prolonged of all disagreeable
experiences. Now inro my
80s, I obse rve wirh wry
humour rhe fai lings of my
body. Once nor uncomely,
broad of shoulder, flar of belly
and proporrionare, I had
sramina, played rugby wirh
enthusiasm, ran long distances and clambered
about in mountains, but now my bones have
turned ro chalk and pumice, crumbling, my
joints creak, my heart is a four-cylinder engine
fi ring on three and, naked , my skin draped
abour me like a grubby old nee curcain,
I resemble a 17th-century Spanish painting
of an ancient hermir saint expeccing the Lase
Trump. Thar is, of cou rse, exacd y whar Tam
d oing- waiting for death.
Meanwhile - and in this century of
incerfering med icine the interim may be
inordinately long - whar shall I do to pass the
rime before dorage overwhelms me and rhe
Q ueen's relegram arrives? Perhaps the quescion
should be, not what shall , but what can Tdo?
I can eat a second dozen oysters, bur the
pleasure palls swiftly after the first. I can ear
anorher chocolare, anorher cusrard pie,
the remains of rhe pork crackling before its
crispness fades, finish rhe Gorgonw la and
snaffle the lase slivers of salami and smoked
salmon, but in all these small gluttonies chere
is rhe sense not only of haplessly responding
to rriggers thar T am unable ro control, bur
ofloading a belly char increasingly resents
unnecessary burdening. Even so, I fi nd some
things irresiscible: drinking rhe blackened
vinegar in which walnuts have been pickled,
soaking bread in the fat and juices lefr in rhe
roasring rin, sandwiches of garlic thinly sliced
onto thick bucrer, gnawing rhe bones of
poulcry, game, lamb and oxtail, indeed the

bones of anything - a pleasure learned as a boy


during the war of 1939-45 and the even
worse ausrericies of pose-war rationing. And if
I go further down chat crack I shall revisit the
delighr of sweetened condensed milk as the
filling of a sandwich.
Mose of my elderly friends are dead and
I cannor compare nores wirh them. Francis
Bacon enjoyed farcing in public, deliberately
consumed raw vegetables that ind uced much
wind, and delicately assisted its release by
cilcing ro one side and lifring a bucrock wirh
his hand; Cecil Beacon, slightly merry,
admitted that, though concenc with his old
face, he had had both h is buttocks surgically
lifred. Duncan G rant, Keith Vaughan and
Frank Dobson all rook to d rawing, very
crudely, examples (often ingenious) of sexual
congress; I could never have lunch with
Derek Hill wichour his sentimentally recalling
episodes of mutual masrurbation at
Marlborough in rhe Thirries; and Derek
Jarman, having found painting, cinema,
theatre and high camp barren, followed
Volraire's Candide into obscuriry and
culrivared the mosr barren of gardens on rhe
beach ar Dungeness. Mose artists of my
acquaintance have, however, slipped gracefully
inco old age. Tcould, nevertheless, follow the
example of Lewis Carroll's old Father William,
srand on my head, cum back-somersaults,
balance an eel on my nose and kick young
men downsrairs - bur all chat seems far too
energeric and T have insread considered
learning ro play rhe rrumper.
What do I already do chat is disgraceful?
Twear ro descruccion my comfo rrable old
cloches, our at elbows and almosr out ar knees;
favourite shirts hang together with adhesive
tape designed for wounds (it survives several
washes, is even more secure when ironed and
repairs worn pockets too). But unlike Elior's

Photographed by KEVIN DAVIES


TATLER JUN E 2013

133

Prufrock, 1 rrim rhe frayed borroms of my


rrousers and never wear rhem rolled. I refuse
all invirarions ro proper lunch and beanos
because morhs have consumed my lasr
su rviving suir and d inner jacker and I am roo
mean ro replace rhem.
I swear a lor - nor jusr rhe slightly scared
incredulity of rhe 'bloody hell' murrered when
some un fam iliar and u nexpecred pain strikes
like a srilerto in the ribs, but the beneficent
F-word bequearhed us by the Germans and
originally of dignifi ed status, ro wh ich, alas, it
can never be returned. To the ch ronic pain
rhar srrikes when reachi ng high fo r a book or
low for a shoe, bellowing th is short, sharp
explerive is the perfect response - b reath is
drawn in with the pain and immed iately
expelled wirh the word , rhe lower lip so bitten
with rhe F, rhe lower jaw so opened fo r the U
(wider than for any
orher vowel) that rhe
C and K hardly
marrer, for in
exercisi ng the ribcage
ro rhe full, the pain
has vanished. I once
attempted ro discuss rhis p henomenon wirh
an expert o n pain relief in the hospital ro
which l am umbilically atcached, but she
raised a sceptical eyebrow and ar once moved
on ro the loftier bu t ineffect ual plane of my
psychological response.
I am surprised, but not displeased, ro fi nd
thar I think so much about sex- ridiculous,
of course, even groresque, a matter for
mockery yet patheric roo. 'Thinki ng' is
perhaps nor quire the righr word for an
essen tially cerebral business rhar is neirher
contin uous no r deep, bu r more a Aash of
memory, an impulse rriggered by eyes, hair o r
limbs glimpsed in rhe crowded U nderground.
As a boy I was much rroubled by sex and
(rhen devou r) prayed ro reach soon the age
when it evaporated (some rime in my 20s,
I su pposed) , only ro learn as rhe decades
passed, that ir never does; I now know how
sensible StAugusrine was in his p raying 'Give
me chasrity - bur nor yer'. The u nchasriry of

rhe imag ination can be as rich as the


unchasrity of the Aesh, and witho ut rhese
random speculations on whar migh r have
been were I still young, I'd be a very dry
old stick, but not yec, not yet.
Luse is listed as one of the Seven Deadly
Sins, and ro Anger roo I am in tl1rall - but
I see it as a virtue, for it d rives us ro do
right when we see wrong. In Anger we have
rhe strengrh ro intervene when we see
people and animals ill-treated. Anger is our
surest weapon against the violence of che
brute, the dishonesty of the banker, che
complacency of bureaucrats and the vanity
of politicians. Anger may just save the world
from rhe blind follies of rhose who inhabit ic.
O f rhese follies I admit ro o ne - my
passionate interest in rhe car, as longestablished as my inrerest in arr, arguing
rhac it is indeed a form of sculpture. I still
drive a car, very small, economical and
polirically correct, but as a child of rhe
T h irties, when che beauty of cars reached
its apogee, I cherish the notion of owni ng
one exactly as old as mysel f- though not
some poxy little Austin Seven. Alas, wirh
half rhe world 's car-makers bankrupted
by rhe Depression, 1931was not a grear
year for the moro r industry and rhe choice
- if the car is ro be of some eng ineering
integrity and aestheric inreresc, but nor
absurdly rare - lies with such sluggard s as
the over-bodied Rolls- Royce 20/25 and rhe
exquisite b ut underpowered Riley N ine.
As I am nor a
man fo r rousling
my w hite locks in
the wind and
0(11
open cars are
never good fo r
dogs, rhe car m usr
almosr cerrainly be one of rhe few 20/25s
wirh a quirky lightweight saloon body b ut even so, would I, in the absence of
powered steeri ng, be srrong enough ro coax
ir rhrough rhe srews of London ro Tate
Modern o r Trafalgar Square? Perhaps,
as wirh sex, die pleasu re will lie longer
in rhe looking and che h unr rhan ever in
rhe possession.
W har else is left in my life thar migh r be
d eemed disgraceful? Nor much , unless we
count a handful of harmless eccenrriciries.
I am an old man on whose bed dogs sleep,
who warches rugby on television, and for
whom adventure has become t he discovery
in Wairrose of a cheese I do not know.
I occasionally offend my neighbours and
local council by lerting my gard en rum inro
a tanglewood for tl1e benefit of birds. Mostly,
rhough, I am unrepenranr, unashamed
and unembarrassed in my frequenr
shouri ng of rhe rherapeutic 'Fuck!' D

THE PISS ARTISTE


Oui, wee! Gerard Depardieu
can't control himself on planes.

THE WILD BEAST


No one has tamed the
Marquess of Bath. Yet.

THE STIFF
RIP Nelson Rockefeller. He
died in the saddle (allegedly).

THE HIGH ONE


Taki Theodoracopulos
knows ALL our secrets.

THE JOKER
He's always been naughty,
has Jack Nicholson.

THE BILLIONAIRE
George Soros recently had
trouble with his toy girl.

THE STONER
It would be mean to tell Ronnie
Wood he's getting on a bit.

THE SURREALIST
Salvador Dali was into
some weird shit.

Adventure has beconu


the discovery
cheese I do not knouJ

THE DAME
Chaos reigns wherever
Edna goes. Poor Norm.

THE SCREAMING QUEEN


He really knew how to party,
did Bunny Roger...

THE HEDONIST
Lord Glenconner turned a swamp
into Mustique. Left it to his butler.

THE PARTY POPPER


Lady Diana Cooper's house got
raided for drugs. In her 70s.

THE COUGAR
Husband No. 3 of the Duchess
of Alba? Her toy-boy civil servant.

THE ECCENTRIC
Lucinda Lam bton is obsessed
with historical loos.

THESHAGGER
Alan Clark's memoirs were
positively blue.

GRO,l\TING OLD

DISGR~L\CEFULLY
Still badass to the bone! A_ge cannot
wither their appetite for fun
(usually the more outrageous the better)...

THE GRANDE DAME


Creature from Mars (Bar):
Marianne Faithful!.

THE EMPEROR
Hail Tiberius. Filthy things went
on in his Capri swimming pool.

THE UNREPENTANT
Max Mosley has a very racy
side indeed .

THE FASHION MUSE


Marchesa Casali. Buried in fake
lashes with a stuffed Pekinese.

THE FINGER-FLICKER
She did the V in the Lords - all
rise for Baroness Trumpington.

THE CONSORT
The Duke of Edinburgh
just can't help himself.

THE SLEAZEBAG
Mio dio! Where do we start,
Signore Berlusconi?

THE SPEED FREAK


Sir Stirling Moss is still
chasing girls in the fast lane.

THE OLD GOAT


You don't have to marry them
ALL, Hugh Hefner.

THE ANARCHIST
Dame Vivienne Westwood,
punk preacher. D

TA TL ER JU NE 2013

135

PIN THE NAME


ON THE
ROYAL BABY
'One day that
rattle will be mine...
al/mine'

0
0

CAN YOU GUESS THE NAME OF THE ROYAL BABY? AMAZINGLY


GLAMOROUS PRIZES FOR THE LUCKY WINNERS. GO TO TATLER.COM

e are in
norch-wesr
France, and
it's early
evening
and early
summer.
T here is
dappled light on the lawn and rhe watery
Normandy sun is streaming through the willow
trees beside the moat and down onto little
tables and chairs, all covered with faded floral
fabrics. As darkness falls, the tea lights
suspended in old jam jars above the long table
are lie. Beneath chem, the cable is being laid for
supper, ics fl owery cloths punctuaced by white
French china, water carafes scoppered wich
peaches and baskets of cherries and apricots.
The romantic acmosphere is shaccered by
the chatelaine. 'Fuck,' says Clarissa Pilkingcon.
'Ir's raining.' So the show is moved inside, to
a dining room where cowels are drying above che
fire. Ch icken, bread, salad and cheese - and
samphire picked from the beach thac afternoon
- are puc out on a wooden sid e table.
Tc's as lovely as anything in I Capture the
Castle but far less pretentious. Clarissa and her
husband Mike bought che I ? ch-century
La Boissaye in 2001 as a holiday home. T hey
spent that first summer 'literally can1ping' in
what was then a mere shell. The house was
done up with che help of a crack-addicced
painter and decoracor called Jean. 'H e was
marvellous,' says C larissa. 'Terribly quick.'
Famously good-humoured Mike is a landscape
gardener and the sort of accion man who can
single-handedly push cractors out of the mud
and thinks nothing of swimming in an icy sea.
C larissa, a psychosynthesis counsellor, is
nicknamed 'The Duchess' by her family due
to her majestic bearing and fondness for
exceptionally long lie-ins. She's very glamorous
and incredibly brigh t. She and Mike bought
La Boissaye as a refuge from the hurly-bu rly of
their London base in Shepherd 's Bush. Tc's also
a welcome haven for their three daughters:
Grace, 25, Elle, 24, and Silvy, 20 - all much
admired on the parry scene.
'We used co rent a fabulous weekend cottage
in the middle of the woods in Norfolk, without
electricity,' says C larissa. 'But then, annoyingly,
the owner rediscovered it and realised it was
the nicest house on the Holkham Estate and
wanted it back!' In the years since rhe
Pilkingrons have been visiting Normandy,
the house has become somewhere the girls
bring their many friends for weekend parties
(on this trip, two of the girls' boyfriends, Oscar
Burnecc and W ill Shortt, are there, as well as
Louise G uinness and her son Sam, and Frank
Hesketh). T here's an enormous barn where
Grace had her 2 1st and Mike his 50m, with
300 guests dancing co the Marquess of
Worcester's band, The Listening D evice. C>

J38 TATLE R JUNE 20 13

From top, Edie, the


Pilkingcons' other
cairn terrier, guards
the front door at
La Boissaye; Silvy
Pilkingron and Oscar
Burnetc; a table
in the La Boissaye
party barn

Clockwise from left,


Mike and C larissa
Pilkingcon in che
garden; a guest
bachroom; ducks o n
the lawn; a detai l
fro m che sitting room
at La Boissaye;
G race Pilkingcon;
the sitting room

Clockwise ftom left, the


dining room; the play
room, which doubles as
an informal cinema;
Sam Guinness; Mike
and Clarissa's bedroom

'Im not sure,' explains Clarissa, 'ifIm


Miss Havisham or Marie Antoinette'
<l Mike likes to visit the house on his own
every month, to mow the lawn in peace,
while C larissa d escends for three mo nths in
the summer. The atmosphere evokes
generations of accreted fam ily furniture piled
higgledy-piggledy on top of itself, but almost
everything in the house was bought after the
fam ily moved in.
C larissa has a passion for what her family,
half-teasingly, call 'styling'. 'She fou nd her
first brocante [flea market] within half an hour
of arriving in Normandy,' says Mike wearily.
The house is largely furni shed with finds
from such places: vintage embroidered French
linen, large Ricard bottles and wicker baskets
hold ing heaps of carrots and peaches.
T he family all love the beautiful bits and bobs
that C larissa finds, but admit it can sometimes
get a bit much. 'She's always buying fake lemons
but forgetting to get real ones,' says Silvy. 'So
when I have &iends over, I can't make G&Ts and
they think I'm so weird. I mean, we can afford
real lemons.' C larissa's obsession with derail
J40

TATLER JUNE 201 3

peaked when her sister stayed at La Boissaye


and was woken up at two in the morning by
C larissa changing the sheers on her bed - as
she slept in it. 'I was lying awake tossing and
turning because I knew they were the wrong
ones and I had to do something about it,' says
Clarissa, as if this is perfeccly reasonable.
The next morning the girls sprawl around
on the daybeds and d eckchairs that are dotted
around the lawn, brown legs hanging over the
sides and wafts of cigarette smoke curling up
above their heads. Talk is intermittent but
comes in lively bursts, flecked with plenty of
laughter and a great deal of swearing.
Occasionally there's a burst of energy and
they jump up to play badminton or attempt
to settle the long-standing feud with the ducks.
The ducks are white and d ecorative and have
to be replenished each year because many are
killed by foxes every winter. They waddle
across the lawn and occasionally make valiant
forays towards the open doors of the kitchen,
perhaps sensing that their best chance of

survival lies within. The girls insist that the


ducks should be forced into the waters of the
moat to learn survival techniques on their own.
'Bloody ducks,' says Silvy as she chases after
them. 'What's wrong with you?! You're ducks!'
Mike comes outside to tell Clarissa about
a brocante in the next town, so an excursion
is made. Ir is a lot more junk than antiquites
(antiques) - old Babygros and PlayStation
games seem to be all that's on offer. But when
Clarissa appears at the cafe where the rest of us
are having sausage sandwiches and Orangina,
she is carrying two sacks full to the brim. She
has unearthed amazing goodies: some paintings
('I bought them for the frames, they're rather
lovely'), mo re linen, an army canvas bag for
one of the boyfri ends and some fin-de-siecle
white shirrs with lace collars. It is lircle short of
a miracle that she has found this treasure trove
among the tat - but then, she has the eye.
'The thing with me,' explains C larissa as she
sips a coffee, 'is that I'm not sure if I'm Miss
H avisham or Marie Antoinette.' D

......

Cl.ARION

Calls cost 10 pence per minute plus network extras. Booking fee applies. Box office closes 14 May 2013.

HIGHLY COMMENDED BATH & RACQUETS

BEST PERSONAL
TRAINERS
WINNER TIM WEEKS

An ex-Olympic athlete who specialises


in ladies, T im will meet you whenever,
wherever, and is on call 24 hours a
day. H e's gathered together a group
of genius therapists too - from
hypnotherapists co gynaecologists who will take care of your weight,
fimess and health for a monthly fee.
By rhe rime he's finished wirh you,
you'll be practically bulletproo(
Details From 200 an hour (timweeks.
co.uk; 07969 004590).
HIGHLY COMMENDED
FREEDOM 2 TRAIN

If we were co spend Sarurday mornings


jogging around rhe park, Steve Mellor
and James Osborn are rhe boys we'd
rake along. Their approach is supremely
effective: TRX resistance cables are
hung from branches, d ips are done
on benches and obstacle courses sec
up. You'll feel rhe results the next day
when you walk down the stairs.
Details From 75 an hour (freedom
2train .com).

The finest men-only club in the land. Because


it has Mark Birley's magic touch. Because
searched whites are supplied for squash, the
barbershop looks like a ship's cabin and
the concierge will go out of his way to help
you with anything. Smart, sma.rc, smart.
Details Annual membership, from 6,500. At
49 Brook's Mews, W 1 (bathandracquetsclub.co.
uk; 020 7499 9044).

BEST LOCAL GYM


WINNER BODY WORKS WEST

T hey've nailed chat whole downtown New


York vibe here. Brick walls and giant skylights,
bowls of fruit to grab on the go and char snug
of a sitting room - where regulars like C laire
Danes a.nd Damon Albarn flick through
rhe papers and sip espresso - a.re all infinitely
soothing. T he crowd is glam in an off-ducy
kind of way and hardly anyone wears
make-up. It's that low-key, see?
Details From 130 a month. At 11 Lambton Place,
W 11 (bodyworkswest.co.uk; 020 7229 2291 ).
HIGHLY COMMENDED VILLAGE FARM
HEALTH CLUB, NORTHUMBERLAND

A rural retreat worth knowing about, and


conveniently close to Alnwick Castle. It's
wonderfully inclusive and probably rhe smartest
gym in the North - and there's some excellent
equipment tucked away in the eaves of rhe
farm's main cottage coo. Make time to visit
the brillian t spa (housed in a converted
stable block) and the riding school nearby.
Details Annual membership, from 480. At
Middle Road, near Alnwick, Northumberland
(villagefarmhealthclub.co.uk; 01665 575187).

BEST CHANGING
ROOJVTS
WINNER SP&CO

BEST FOR
FLASHINESS
WINNER KX GYM

O h look, there's Marie-Chantal of G reece.


And isn't char Daniel Craig on the treadmill?
KX is a swanky temple of glass and teak where
billionaires play and their wives go looking for
their next 'investment'. The restaurant is good
enough to rival Daphne's across rhe street, but
rhe women who spend their days here are very
chin. Which means rhe gym must be good.
Details Annual membership, 6,000 (joining
fee, 2,000). At 151 DraycottAvenue, SW3
(kxlife.co. uk; 020 7584 5333).

Give us a private changing room stocked with


the fluffiest rowels and the nicest products (like
culr Japanese brand Forlle'd). T hen tell us our
kit is going to be laundered, pressed and hung
in a locker to await our return, and we'll dance
co the picter-pacter of the rain shower in joy.
Details Annual membership, 6 ,000. At
3 Jubilee Place, SW3 (spandco.co.uk; 020
7351 3332).
HIGHLY COMMENDED THE QUEEN'S CLUB

BEST CLASSES
WINNER GYMBOX

A trendy spar chat's half retro gym, half


nightclub, where everyone is young
and hoc. Bue that's nor why you'll
come here. You'll come for rhe bonkers
classes: Rihanna routines, glow-in-thedark hula- hooping a.nd Kangoo. T hink
aerobics, but wearing what look like
ski boots with springs on and bouncing
three feet into rhe a.ir. Glorious.
Details From 62 a month. At Farringdon,
Bank, Holborn, Covent Garden and
Westfield London (gymbox.com).
HIGHLY COMMENDED FRAME

T here's a newer, shinier Fra.me in Q ueen's


Park, but rhe original Shoreditch
srudio has rhe best options, from Music
Video Classics (FINALLY, a chance co
moonwalk in public) and an Eightiesscyle Ja.ne Fonda workout. Leotards
and legwarmers actively encouraged.
Details Classes, from 12. At 29
New Inn Yard, EC2 (moveyourframe.com;
020 7033 1855).

studio and specialist triathlon Wattbikes in


the gym. Upstairs in rhe medical centre you'll
fi nd even more gizmos, like foll icle-zapping
Soprano XL lasers and colonic hydrotherapy
machines to get everything, ahem , moving.
Details Annual membership, 1,390 (joining
fee, 300). At 13 Sherwood Street, W1
(thethirdspace.com; 020 7439 6333).
HIGHLY COMMENDED THE CITYPOINT CLUB

A City hotspot filled with cutting-edge kit,


like the X C ube (a climbing frame for adults,
with all sorts of bungees, ropes and rings
attached) and, best of all, the Matrix Virtual
Active machines. Step onto what looks like a
normal treadmill and plug in your earphones
- next thing you know, you're running along
bumpy nature trails and rocky mountain
ranges as an interactive video is beamed from
your screen. Clever.
Details From 65 a month. At 1 Ropemaker Street,
EC2 (thecitypointclub.co.uk; 020 7920 6200).

BEST CAFE
WINNER RAW & CURED IN THE HERB
HOUSE SPA, HAMPSHIRE

From the best granola in the universe


to fresh-from -the-garden veg, this place
has healthy eating sorted. The chefs
are full of clever ways of doing things,
like rolling wraps in slithers of courgette.
!e's also 10 seconds away from their
white-timbered, forest-view gym.
Details At Limewood, Lyndhurst, Hampshire
(limewoodhotel.co.uk; 023 8028 7177).
HIGHLY COMMENDED
TRI YOGA CHELSEA

We heart the cafe here. Juices are


juiced in front ofyour eyes, cakes are
gluten-free and you can sit cross-legged
at the scrubbed wooden table and
watch the King's Road buzz below.
Details At 372 King's Road,

BEST HOTEL GYNC


WINNER BODYISM AT THE BULGARI

A round of applause for the Bulgari for


bagging Bodyism - founder James Duigan is
credited with maintaining Elle Macpherson's
famous Body and branches are springing up
all over, from the Maldives to Dubai. Expect
lots of resistance work and postural stuff in a
private wood-panelled studio, with frothy
protein shakes to spur you on. Tear yourself
away from the gym and there's an incredible
pool, a show-stealing spa and cavernous
changing rooms with emerald marble showers.
Details Annual membership, 5,000 (joining fee,
2,000); Bodyism training, from 100. At the
Bulgari, 171 Knightsbridge, SW? (bulgarihotels.
com; 020 7151 1010).
HIGHLY COMMENDED SO FIT AT SOFITEL
ST JAMES

A big green playground, where plants grow


out of the walls, bowls of Granny Smiths sit
on every surface and H ermes soaps line the
showers. It's full of all rhe usual Technogym
kit, plus a supercool Sha Chair - a Star Trekky
lounger that claims to cure jetlag through
micro-vibrations. T he Technogym bootcamps
outside in St James's Park are just as effective.
Open to hotel guests only. At 6 Waterloo Place,
SW1 (sofitelstjames.com; 020 7747 2200).

BEST EQUIPMENT
WINNER THE THIRD SPACE SOHO

Wowzers - there's enough gadgetry on the


four floo rs of chis Soho gym to put N ASA
to shame, from hypoxic chambers (where the
oxygen level is controlled to deliver a punchier
workout) to a glass-floored TRX platform, a
jungle ofGyrotonics equipment in the pilares

BEST FOR PILATES


WINNER TEN PILATES

It started in Notting Hill with 'Pilates


Dave' - an Aussie heartthrob who quickly
had the likes of C laudia Schiffer and
Jemima Khan in a frenzy. Then word spread
and more studios sp rang up. Now, Ten
Pilates has an almost evangelical following
- understandably, when yo u see how trim it
makes yo u, and when you realise it holds
the key to nuking that niggling pain in your
back. Ic's almost shocking in its intensity
(the C ard iolates class - 3 0 minutes of cardio
plus 30 minutes of spinni ng- is even more
so). But the music is loud and completely
happy-making- with Wham! blasting
over the stereo , you'll quite forget about
the pain. Sort of.
Details Classes, from 27; personal training
session, from 80. At Notting Hill, Chiswick,
St James's, Mayfair and Hatton Garden
(tenpilates.co.uk).
HIGHLY COMMENDED HEARTCORE

Forget the pretty changing rooms with their


Ind ian baskets and G reen & Spring products
- what really sets Hearrcore apart are its
twists on the ordinary. Yes, there's reformer
pilaces on springy, slid ing bed s - but wait!
le gets more exciting. Sudd enly TRX is less
abouc working against resistance cables and
more about tightening up and stabilising
your core. Kectlebells aren't just swung about
willy-nilly bur used as intervals in reformer
classes to really, really work muscle groups
(killer). And Xtend Barre, a kind ofballetcum-aerobics class, will leave you feeling inches
caller. Try chem out - cry them all!
Details Classes, from 27. At Notting Hill,
Hampstead and Chelsea (heartcore.co.uk).

SW3 (triyoga .co.uk; 020


7483 3344).

BEST FORHUSBAND
HUNTTNG
WINNER REEBOK SPORTS CLUB

It's as big as three football pitches - just


think how many eligible investment bankers
could cram in there. You have three floors including a 13-metre climbing wall, a 23-metre
pool and Europe's largest spin studio - to
navigate if you want to find chem, though.
Details Annual membership, 112 (joining fee,
40). At 16--19 Canada Square, E14 (reebok
sportsclublondon.com; 020 7970 0900).
HIGHLY COMMENDED HOME HOUSE GYM

A small, intimace space where people go to be


seen and occasionally lift a free weight if they
think someone's watching. It's not too much
of a push to make eye contact over the cop
of your crosscrainer either. H ead upstai rs co
the bar as soon as chis occurs - he may follow.
Details Annual membership, 1,275 (joining fee,
1 ,275). At 20 Portman Square, W1 (homehouse.
co.uk; 020 7670 2020). [>

TATLER JUN E 20 13

145

BEST FOR RESULTS


WINNER TWENTY TWO TRAINING

A couple of sessions here and you'll see a


change. Bur chat's not co say things aren't
rather cosy over in chis brigh t, breezy South
Ken house. TwencyTwoTrainingspans three
floors , with personal training, yoga, massage
and even body-taping. Founder Dalton Wong
champions the sore of fitness regime that
will cake you from amoeba co gladiator in a
matter of weeks. H e'll move you between
cardio and resistance work without missing
a beat, with a bit of screeching here, a glass of
green alkalising water there - all designed co
chisel you into svelteness. Ic got Jennifer
Lawrence fighting fie for The Hunger Games.
And chat's good enough for us.
Details Personal training , from 100 (joining fee,
2,000). At 22b Elvaston Mews, SW7
(twentytwotraining.com; 020 7581 2234).
HIGHLY COMMENDED MARK ANTHONY'S

Just off Pembridge Square, where you'll spot


the Beckhams doing the school run, chis gym
looks like a harmless litcle cafe from che
outside. Bur you couldn't be further off the
mark. Inside, ic's dazzlingly minimal - white
walls, glass hurricane lamps, pale wooden
floors - and you'll swing from suspension
cables in a group TRX class or perform
torso-strength ening rotations on the kinesis
machine. Its Body Systems are a foolproof way
co shape up. Book in for the six-week plan
(four PT sessions a week plus strict m eal
planning) and you'll notice a d ifference. Book
in for the 12-week and everyone else will coo.
Details Personal training, from 80; six-week
Body Plan , 1,800; 12-weeks, 5,000. At
57 Ossington Street, W2 (markanthonysuk.com;
020 7221 8625).

146 TATLER JUNE 2013

BEST POOL
WINNER THE BERKELEY HEALTH CLUB

BEST FOR TLC

There's no better place co wallow in London


in che summer than a rooftop pool in che
middle ofKnighcsbridge. And this is a pool
with a view - sort of Fifties Riv iera, all
sparkling turquoise water and h oney-coloured
columns through which you can see H yde
Park. Th e roof slides across wh en a chill secs
in, and there are blankets co snuggle up
under, pose-p lunge. Do some laps, join in che
syn chronised swimming classes or simply
dip your toes in the water and pretend you're
in che South of France.
Details Half-day pool and gym membership, 45;
full day, 65. At Wilton Place, SW1 (the-berkeley.
co.uk or 020 7201 1699).

If you ever do yourself some damage,


chis is the place co make it all better.
T he Wellbeing Centre is bursting with
innovative ways to heal and mend - and
practitioners are tipiccy-top. Sprains
and slipped discs are created by in-house
physios, eight hamstrings given vigorous
spores massage and kinked spines
scraighcened w ich osteopathy. T here
are ayurvedic treatments, acupuncture
- and even life-coaching .
Details Treatments, from 48. At
293 Fulham Road , SW10 (lomaxpt.com
or08715 120770).

HIGHLY COMMENDED MARSHALL


STREET BATHS

HIGHLY COMMENDED RUNNER BEAN


HEALTH & FITNESS, COTSWOLDS

There's a sore of St Pancras gra ndeur to this


beautiful pool, which daces back co the
1850s. It's been restored since, of course marble floor, vaulced ceilings and all - creating
something very sp ecial. Ac a staggering 30
metres, it's one of che biggest p u blic baths
in London -yec you'd never know it was
tucked away behind Carnaby Street. Be
warned: you will find children here, so time
your visit accordingly.
Details From 27.95 a month. At Marshall Street,
W1 (better.org.uk; 020 7871 7222).

T he name may sound like a nursery for


grown-ups - fie, thin grown-ups. Bur
chis cure Cocswolds club is excellent for
cackling aches and pains, with therapists
offering everything from the crad (spores
massage, chiropody, acupunccure) co the
wacky (reiki, reflexology, hoc scones) .
Details Treatments, from 30. At 43 Upper
Rissington Business Park, Uppe r
Rissington, Gloucestershire (runner-bean .
co.uk; 01451822541).

WINNER LOMAX CHELSEA

BEST FOR PRI\0-\CY


WINNER THE WHITE ROOM
WINNER EQUINOX

A ginormous, gorgeous slice of


American hyper-productivity. M embers
are starry (President Obama is a fan,
albeit in the U S), equipment is
bafflingly hi-tech and classes veer from
Thai boxing to 12 types of yoga. And
the little details verge on the ridiculous
- eucalyprus-infused rowels, anyone?
Details From 1 80 a month. At 99
Kensington High Street, W8
(equinox.com; 020 7666 6000).
HIGHLY COMMENDED
BARRY'S BOOTCAMP

OK, so it's not everybody's idea of fun,


being screamed at while you and 60
other victims thrash it ou t o n tread mills
under disco ligh ts. Bur you can't argue
with 1,000 calories burned per session...
Details Classes, from 20. At 16 Upper
Woburn Place, WC1 (barrysbootcamp.com;
020 7387 7001 ).

BEST DOCTORS
WINNER CP+R

T his H arley Street gym really knows h ow to


look afrer its clients, from injured athletes to
cardiac patients. Workouts are effective without
putting the body under strain, and the nurse
will monitor your ch olesterol and h eart rate,
test for diabetes and keep an eye o n your d iet.
Details Three-month programme , 2,880. At 110
Harley Street, W1 (cpandr.co.uk; 020 7053 6134).
HIGHLY COMMENDED GRACE BELGRAVIA

Yes, there's a M att Roberts-managed gym


- but it's also home to a most impressive
m ed ical facility, run by Dr Tim Evans,
with everything from fertility treatment
co hormone-monitoring on offer. Sign up
and you'll be given a full m edical review
by every on e of its h ealth experts.
Details Annual membership, 5,500 Uoining
fee, 2,000). At 11c West Halkin Street, SW1
(gracebelgravia .com; 020 7235 8900).

BEST ALL-ROUNDER
WINNER THE ROEHAMPTON CLUB

This gobsm ackingly smart 100 -year-old club


ticks all the boxes. There's world-class croquet,
acres of golf, indoor and o utdoor pools,
tennis courts, a buzzy restaurant, insanely
pretty gardens, a sp orts-injury clinic AND
an exemplary gym. Phew!
Details Annual membership, 2,290 Uoining fee,
2,900). At Roehampton Lane , SW15
(roehamptonclub.co.uk; 020 8480 4200).
HIGHLY COMMENDED THIRTY SEVEN
DEGREES OLYMPIA

Six fl oors stuffed with ever ything the human


body needs, from an entire floor of m achines
to stud ios for spinning, yoga and pilates. And
at the very top? A terrace for outdoor yoga.
Details Annual membership, 800 Uoining fee ,
80). At 10 Beaconsfield Terrace Road, W14
(thirtysevendegrees.co.uk; 0 20 7610 4090).

W hat co uld be m ore bijou th an a gym in


a Belgravia m ews house, with cwo whole floors
of shiny equipment and trainer Michael Garry
on h an d practically 24 hours a day? The whole
approach is old-fashioned firness (walking
lunges, planks, squats) delivered so gently
chat you don't even realise you're getting fitter
until, suddenly, BOOM .
Details Six-week course, 1 ,936. At 54b
Ebury Street, SW1 (whiteroomfitness.com ;
020 7584 3881 ).
HIGHLY COMMENDED THE LOFT AT MINT
CONDITION, HAMPSHIRE

If you're a grunter, a moaner or a scream er,


th en chis place is your salvation. Because h ere,
squirrelled away in a private fi tness 'loft'
w ithin a converted barn in the H ampshire
countryside, you can shout and sob to
your heart's content, without the shame of
others seeing you .
Details Personal training , from 40. At Steyne
Farm, Alton (mint-condition.com ; 01420 590590).

BEST FOR VA RIETY


WINNER THE CHAMPION EFFECT

This is wh ere you send your boyfri end wh en


he starts looking a little soft around the edges.
It's wh ere the big-name personal trainers go fo r
boxing, sparring and circuits. Mach o scuff
Details From 60 a month . At Pall Mall De posit,
124- 128 Barlby Road , W10 (thechampioneffect.
com; 020 3178 3377).
HIGHLY COMMENDED FLYING FANTASTIC

If you've always wanted to fly, here's your


chan ce. Q uick as a fl ash , the lovely instructors
will have you swinging from silks, dangling
upside down and concorting your body co fit
through hanging h oops. U p, up, up and away!
Details Classes, from 20 . At 48 Culvert Road ,
SW11 (Hyingfantastic.co.uk; 07801 075488).

BEST CHAIN
WINNER VIRGIN ACTIVE

Sir Rich ard's pioneering, imaginative


super-gyms. T he classes have wit
(snorkelling, underwater phocography)
and thoughtful extras like cri:ch es
make our hearts sing. Favourites are
the Kensingcon Club, with its vast
stainless-steel pool, and 200 Aldersgate
for its awesome spinning studio and
rainbow-coloured hydrotherapy jets.
Details Over 100 branches nationwide;
membership varies (virginactive.co.uk).
HIGHLY COMMENDED
NUFFIELD HEALTH

Full-body MOTs an d free physio


assessm ents at all locatio ns, but the star
in the line-up is th e City Fitness &
Wellbeing Centre by Cannon Street:
swathes of glass, original railway arches,
and a pool overlooking the T h ames.
Details 65 branches nationwide;
membership varies (nuffieldhealth .com). D

TATLE R JUN E 20 13

147

BEAUTY
K RA

L
Root Nutrient
Complex Spray, 30
T11ey say ' Like a

Spray a Porter, 23
They say 'Couture styling...
for a tousled effect.'

We say Who has sexy bed hair


just by getting out of bed? No
one. This clever texturising spray
makes that 'Twake up looking
hor' style less of a kerfuille.

JOHN FRI
Sheer Blonde Everlasting
Blonde Colour Preserving
Conditioner, 5.89
They say 'Ensures that
salon-fresh feeling again
and again and again .. .'
We say A nippy colour
top-up without the
absurdity of those silly foils.

blowdry in a bottle.'
We say If your hair
looks like it would be
at home in a mortuary
(flar and, you know,
basically dead), use
this for serious,
noticeable volume.
Thou Swell, indeed.

M DO(
Clarifying Shampoo, 18.45
They say ' Designed to help
remove product build-up,
chlorine and ocher residue.'
We say It says shampoo on the
borde. Bur ir's nor a normal
shampoo - you only use ir
forrnighrly. Ir does, however,
clean like a demon - but not
so you feel you're washing
your hair with painr srripper.

HU U M
Muroto Volume
Pure Lightness

Shampoo, 24
They say 'Defy laws
of gravity, Ii fr roots
and give a new bread1
of weightlessness
to fine hair.'
We say Fine-hair
possessors, th is
is for you. Oozing
with volumising
Himalayan-crystal
minerals, it's a
bodybuilding exercise
for your locks.

Beauty flash
HAIR RESCUE
The long and the short ofit- 999s for your noggin. By Funmi Fetto
0
E
Sculpting Cream, 25
T11ey say 'Maintains styles
under extreme conditions.'
We say Be honest - when
you think 'sculpting
cream', gunk, ickiness and
carasrrophic Eighties hair
spring ro mind. But this is
different. It is super-light, so
sleek waves don't disinregrare
inro a bird's nest.

CHARLES
ORT
t-.iGTOI'
Salon At Home Long
Lasting Straight Spray,
6.99
They say ' Powerful thermal
protection ... ideal for girls
who want to go srraighr.'
We say Stop sniggering. If
you wanr poker-srraighr
hair, the type thar lasts
three days, use this. If you
don't, well, don't.

Hairdresser's Invisible
Oil,30
They say 'Super-softening
Tahitian monoi extract,
argan, coconut, macadamia,
almond and rapeseed oils.'
We say Frizz-fi ghting,
breakage-banishing,
shine-boosting and your
hair won't go orange. All that
multitasking! This non-oily
oil must be exhausted.

UJ

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u

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0:
....

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fl.

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J48

TATLER JUNE lOll

BEAUTY

My close-up
Jessica Chastain on Brad Pitt, survivingfight scenes and running like Tom Cruise. By Francesca White
MY INS P IRATIONS

--.......

When I was little, I wanted to be..


An actress. When I realised you could
play all day and get paid for ic, I said,
'That's my job.'
Always looked up to My grandmother,
because she gives the best advice and
really helped me to feel comfortable
in my own skin. Last year I rook her
to the Oscars with me as my date.
Biggest challenge Taking on the role
of Mrs O 'Brien in The Tree ofLife.
There was so much char I had co
express without speaking. It was all
about using my eyes, my face and
my body ro convey my feelings,
which is tricky, because you don't
know how well you're doing it.
Time out I'm a big walker. I love
waking up in the morning and
taking my three-legged dog,
Chaplin, for a stroll along Venice
Beach, stopping off at a cafe for a
cup of tea and then popping into
a bookstore. I hate the idea of being
in my car all day.
Turning point Working with Brad
Pitt. H e's coo humble to make it
obvious chat he's giving you advice,
but I would watch him on the set and
follow his example.

~~

FORSOOML, BY :: ::.:
KIEHl:S
:.,...,::.:

:..--=..-=::~
~!9':=...--:.

.......

MY TRICKS

TOP TIP
MY DETAILS
Would sell a kidney for A painting. Someth ing
char I would never be able to afford, like a C hagall,
would be a dream. Until then, I guess I'll just have
MANIFESTO
to enjoy them in che museum. My scent
EDP, 64 FOR
YSL Manifesto. At first it smells of jasmine,
50ML, BYYSL
bur ic becomes warmer the longer ic sics on
your skin. Job to forget Getting up every
morning at 4.30am to sell muffins when I
was scarring out as an actress. I had to go into all these offices
with my huge basket of pastries and call out 'Muffins! Muffins!'
) Ir was definitely a low point. Recently mastered Running. Sam
Worthington, who I aC[ed with in The Debt, had to ceach me,
because I used co look like such a wimp when I cried. H e cold me co
chink of Tom C ruise when he runs in movies - chat's what I was
aiming for! Need to learn To swim. I mean, I can swim how an
old lady swims, where you scick your head above the water and
you just move your arms our like a frog. But not properly.

150

TATLER JUN E l OIJ

'Be brave
and throw
yourselfinto
a situation.
Being scared
normally
results in the
best work'

Morning routine I always stare


with sunscreen - I swear by Vichy
- followed by a good moisturiser like
Dr Hauschka's Quince Day Cream.
Then and now I hated my red hair
as a child - I just wanted to look like
everybody else. Even when I first
moved to Los Angeles, I don't think
anyone knew whac co do with me
because I wasn't a rypical
'babe'. But it's become my
OJI
defining feature and now
I adore it.
In my bathroom Locs
ofKiehl's. I love
QUINCE DAY
CREAM, 20.95 ,
cheir C reme de Corps.
BYDR
Would never D ye my hair.
HAUSCHKA
I always wear wigs when
I'm filming- it helps me
gee into character. I wore
one for my role in The
Debt- even throwing
punches in all chose fight
z
scenes didn't make it fall off.
0
;::
u
Being a bombshell Playing Celia
w
:::l
Foote in The Help meant that I had
8
to becom e curvaceous quite quickly,
-'
<(
ID
so I would microwave soya ice
~
cream and drink ic scraighc down. It
<Ji
w
~
was disgusting.
~

~w
~

>
::;;

:5<(

"'
;'.!:
~
-.J.

<Ji
w

"'::>
!;:

w
xw

u.

"'cii
I

CAPITAL SOLEIL
FACE EMULSION,
16 , BY V ICHY

a.
<(

"'~
~

a.

or everything runs according to plan, even in


paradise. 'Be flexible' and 'pack a sense of
humour', said Ibo Island Lodge, the organisers of
our dhow safari through the Quirimbas
Archipelago, off the northern coast of Mozambique. So we
were warned, which was just as well, since Mozambique has
weather. Lots of it. A 'sense of humour' and a willingness to
'be flexible' came in handy right from the off when, on our
journey from Pemba Airport to the dhow, the black clouds
opened , the thunder roared , lightning split the sky and our
van abruptly got stuck in mud in the middle of Quirimbas
National Park. Som e three hours late and in the p itch dark,
we finally reached our dhow and set off on the 20-minute
journey to the uninhabited island ofMogundula, where the
safari began. But, oh, was it worth it. With a glass of
something white and chilled in the hand, som e
grilled kingfish on the place and our twin-bed
rent waiting on a corner overlooking che sea,
there wasn't anywhere we'd rather have been.
The Quirimbas are special. This huge marine
paradise has unspoiled coral reefS to snorkel,
almost empty sandy beaches to swim off and
some 32 small coral islands to picnic on. Round
the islands sail the Swahili-speaking Mwani
people, skilled fishermen who have lived here
for centuries, joined som etimes by nomadic
Makua fishermen from the south, who sail for
months on end up and down the coast, selling their catch to
the hotels and in the cities along the way.
The glory of exploring the Q uirimbas by dhow is that
you can island-hop through this enchanting seascape as the
weather, the winds and your whims dictate. And there is
something awfully beguiling about lazing away rhe days in
perfect temperatures, watching idly as the m angrove
kingfisher lands on a tree, keeping an eye out for the osprey or
the dimorphic egret, while the sun com es in and out in great
b ig bums and che sea turns from dark blue to turquoise and
back again as the clouds go by. You can warm your bones and
ponder on the great issues of th e day - like where to swim,
what to read, where to catch the sun going down and whether
tonight it'll be fresh lobster or fut, rosy prawns.
By day you travel by dhow, the
Joyce Merle, simply fashioned just
like the traditional sailing vessels
pioneered by the Oman is centuries
ago, when they first started trading
down Africa's east coast. It has a
nicely shabby triangular sail, which
makes the boat easy to manoeuvre
th rough shallow waters, and a top
deck for viewing and
sheltered searing for when
the sun or rain pours
down. By night you camp
in simple tents on sandy
beaches, eat under the
African sky and listen to
lapp ing waves.
At Mogundula island,
lush with palm and
baobab trees and frin ged
with unbleach ed coral

reefS, we swam in the clear blue water, watching the wading


birds flock in and out. Mose excitingly, we had several views
of one of namre's m ost extraordinary creatures - the giant
coconut crab. It is the world's biggest crustacean, with a leg
span of up to rhree feer and pincers strong enough to crack
a coconut (and, it is recorded, a tin).
From there, we camped in the Quirimizi estuary, stopping
on the way just off the island of Rolos to lunch and snorkel
over a coral reef so pristine that safari-goers who had dived all
round the world told us it was one of the most beautiful they
had ever seen.
On our second to lasr day, the m onsoon arrived early and
our tents were swamped during a thunderstorm in the night.
Breakfast under a dripping awning had needed more
'flexibility', as well as the famed 'sense of humour', so Cosmo,
our guide and leader, decided dry clothes and a
proper roof over our heads was what was needed .
So it was rhar we and our two fellow
safari-goers (the dhow can take up to 10, but we
were just four) had four magical days instead of
three at the enchanting Ibo Island Lodge,
fashioned our of three of the grandest mansions,
built during the island's heyday as one of
Mozambique's m osr important ports. The
room s were airy, with high ceilings and
four-poster beds - try to get one at the front that
looks our to the sea and the mangrove swamps,
so you can watch the tide ebb and flow. We spent the days
roaming through ramshackle alleyways, exploring d ecaying
forts and pastel-painted mansions, all reminders oflbo's
intermingled Muslim and Portuguese heritage and its
long-gone days as a port th rough which generations of slaves
were traded. Today, the island seems almost a ghost town,
with tourism, fishing and coffee its chief sources of incomeon our ambles round the island, we met just two other
tourists. Each day the d how rook us to a sandbank and there,
at a white-clothed cable, they cooked up a full English
breakfast - just us, the mrquoise seas and the silvery sand.
So forget five-star hotels. They are two a penny. The tents
may be small but rhey are absolutely fine. T he food may
sound simple, but what could be better than freshly grilled
lobster, buttery prawns and caught-that-day kingfish ? What is
special, what is a rare and precious experience, is to be in such
an unspoiled, little-visited place. To sail through those seas
with an all-African crew (some Z imbabwean , some from
Mozambique) who were pare of an ancient seagoing tradition.
To visit villages where the traditional way of life - part Arab,
part Afri can - continues, where women in long skirts and
brilliantly coloured blouses, their heads wrapped in d oth, do
all their visiting and shopping by boat, singi ng as they go.
But get there soon. Not fur off Ibo islan d, a vast gas deposit
has been discovered. Soon they'll be drilling for ir. And all over
Ibo there are signs that things are being sm artened up. For the
moment, it's the crumbling beau ty that is a p otent part of its
charm, but mmbledown houses are being bought up and
turned into boutique hotels. T here is a sense here of a fragile
beauty that, like a fading bougai nvillea, won't be there for long
- catch it while you can. D
BOOK IT Africa Travel (africatravel.co.uk; 020 7843 3580) offers
seven nights based at Ibo Island Lodge, with four nights on a
dhow and three at the lodge, from 2,595 a person, including
flights, transfers, meals and excursions.

TATLER JUN E lOll

155

Nautical but nice ...

HELLO SAILOR!
Yacht, houseboat, tallship, phinisi - the best vessels on the seas

ENDEAVOUR AUSTRALIA

BOOK IT Tselana Travel (tselana.com;


020 7193 7086) offers four nights
from 2,435, including flights, a trip
on the Endeavour and accommodation
at Four Points by Sheraton Sydney.
In other ports of call, stay at The Rocks
in Albany or the Port Lincoln Hotel.

'Can I get down ftom the the crow's


nest now please, Captain? Seriously. '

Take the helm, climb the mast, swab the deck!


Lee free your inner salty seadog aboard HMB
Endeavour, a faithful replica of l 8ch-cenrury
navigator James Cook's callship. No sailing
experience required , but you do need a sense
of advenrure and a sromach of steel. Be
warned: this is not luxury, no siree. Days are
spenc handling the rigging, furling che sails
and eying and untying endless kno ts; by night
rhe captain teaches celestial navigarion
beneath skies durcered wich conscellacions.
Quarters are cramped. Showers are limited co
60 seconds. Everyone rakes rums to stand
watch - day and night - which means broken
sleep in swinging hammocks. See? Nor luxury.
Bur food is h earty, shipmare spirir is fi erce and
nothing beats strid ing beneath che billowing
sails and scaring ouc over a vase blue sea.

Michelle Jana Chan

T 1 GER BLUE INDONESIA


paradise. We sno rkelled amon g hawksbill
The journey to Raja Ampac screeches the
sea turtles and above manra rays, th e
definition oflong-haul crave!. It takes a d ay
water glittering with thousands of
and a half - A DAY AND A HALF - ro get ro
this scatteri ng of 1,500 islands in W est Papua,
colourful fish. We kayaked through
pare oflndonesia. Four airports, multip le
mangroves, and drank cocktails by a
passport scamps, endless baggage conrrols.
bonfire on a whire-sand beach strewn
Ouch. Bue unpeeling all chose layers of crave!
with cowrie shells, as che evening belly
of b lue sky became an o range d usk.
cakes no time after stepping aboard Tiger Blue.
C reaking with romance,
There's every sore
she's a 34-mecre Indonesian
of m ari time royphinisi schooner with
wacerskis, scuba gear,
speedboats - and lines
bleached ochre-red sails
BOOK IT Ampersand
billow ing above mellow teak.
for pulling up groupers
Travel (ampersandtravel.
She follows four separate 8-10
co barbecue. T he cabins
com; 020 7289 6100)
are comfortable, bur the
day routes, buc che appeal
offers seven nights on
real joy was in sleep ing
of Raja Ampar is che sen se of
Tiger Blue from 3,820 a
crossing inro a li ccle-known
on
d eck beneat h an
person, including food
world, once ruled by
inky sky spiked with
and diving. It sleeps up to
headhunrers (how's that for
scars. O n che lase night
10 adults (plus three beds
the stillness of the evenin g
snapping you out of your
for children) and sails
was broken as a gianr sperm
jeclag?) . We cruised through
Raja Am pat National Park
turquoise lagoons, stopping
whale gently lifted its h ead
from October to March,
ac tiny villages w here we
from the sea - a myth ical ,
and the Komodo region
hiked through teak forests,
magical Leviathan farewell.
from April to Septembe r.
crying ro spot elusive birds of
Clover Stroud
'I've decided I prefer the headhunters in
W(st Papua to those in the City. '

BOAT SPECIAL
L'ARTE 11

TURKEY
Ah, the cobalc wacers of the Turkish coasc:
m aquis-covered hills and fu rlong upon furlong
of p ine-scenced shore co poode along. Board ac
Casa Dell' Arce in Torba, a smarc hoed bursting
with contemporary Turkish arc by N uri lyem,
H aluk Akakcye and ocher rrip-off-che-congue
names. Yachc Casa Dell'Arte I/ is an elegant dark
red, long and lean - 35 mecres of scrubbed deck ,
polished brass and five sleek cabins. With both a
gende engi ne and glorious pouffy
sails, she can eith er beede abouc or
BOOK IT The Yacht
idly glide. Pad barefoot across the
House (theyachthouse.
warm wood or curl up on cream
com; 01981 200270)
daybeds co ogle che sea. Pitscop ac
offers whole boat charters
Turkbu ku, Turkey's Sc Tropez (bur
on Casa Dell Arte II for
only if you're prepared co boocy-rock
650 a person a day. It
in ac lease six bikinis a day). Or shy
s leeps 10 and can be
away from the crowds and divebomb
chartered for a week for
inco the translucent depths ac Dacca
44,500, full board.
for a wacery wake-up call, before
reel ing lines behind the boar for
che fres hest of fis h suppers. Guzzle local
ingredien ts - heady o live oil, rice rolled in
vine leaves, juicy plarcers of fruir - and sip
a rafc of impressively quaffable native wines.
T hen, as darkness descends, roll back che
'Fancy coming back to my yacht? Nope,, no
canopy, 1ie back and gaze up ar rufrs of
etchings. Just the magnificent yacht.
cloud d rifting like spectral jellyfish across
che n ighc sky. Maria Hodson

Tl I

/'"'\Tl I

KERA LA

This is che Kerala houseboat thac blows


the competition ouc of the wacer. Two
enor mous bedrooms with reak floors,
iPod docks, privare verandas and big, big
windows looking ouc over rhe lazy
d ri fci ngs of rhe backwaters. There's a
broad roofrop sundeck and an airy
indoor/oucdoor sirring and dining area
inch es above rhe waterline, where you
can idle d1e hours away while lappi ng
up the gorgeous palm-fringed
surroundings. The entirely charming
staff of fou r includes the cap rain,
who sails you almost
silendy th rough the
unspoiled Valiyaparamba
backwaters in no rthern
BOOK IT Greaves
Kerala, and the cook,
India (greavesindia.
who delivers generous
co.uk) offers one night
quanci ries of culinary
on the Lotus from
South Indian genius
195 for a double
- coconut Malabar
room, including food
curry an d chilled ap ple
and excursions, or
and cinnamon soup.
you can hire the
Chris Caldicott
whole boat for 310.

'Can't talk now. just SO busy.'

..

houseboat Sukoon has carved wooden

nights from 1 ,775, including breakfast,


dinner and transfers. sukoonkashmir.com
Aqua Mekong, a 20-suite river cruiser with
a spa, will be drifting elegantly through
Vietnam and Cambodia from early 2014.

BOAT SPECIAL

MUST-DRINK
Passion-fruit
cockt111ls m the
hot-tub on deck

Sweetie, Darwin!

GALAPAGOS
The natural selection for spotting evolution's XXL exotica?
Grace Kelly's dinky, dreamy yacht. By Michelle Jana Chan

n the Galapagos, size matters: G IANT tortoises,


ENORMOUS whale sharks, albarrosses wirh I 0-FOOT
wingspans. Bur with boars, smaller is always better
here. Think of the logistics: shuttling 100-plus people
berween ship and shore via Zodiacs? No thanks. You must
go small, and one of rhe very smallesr vessels charring rhese
waters is the nine-cabin Grace, daring from the Twenries.
Jusr 18 passen gers and oozing regal charm.
She's perire, yes, bm she's been around - from parrot
boat (during the Second World War) to love boat (this was
Aristotle Onassis's wedding gifr to G race Kelly and Prince
Rainier of Monaco). Slender and glamorous, she slinks
around the archipelago, ferrying passengers and their
top-notch guides to and from narure walks to spot Darwin's
finches, or snorkelling trips with green turtles, or scrolls
along white sandy beaches abundant with bodysurfing sea
lions. Don'r skip an excursion. You'll regrer missing the
well-named magnificent fri garebird puff up irs red th roar
for a crazy courrship ritual, or the vase waved albatross
caking off from a cliffcop.
The guides pepper the day with a thousand insigh ts - and
love to be tested. W hich seabird is the best diver?* W hy do
flan1ingos stand on one leg?** What do hermit crabs spend
80 per cent of rheir time doing?***
Tc's like every natural history lesson you ever had rolled
into one, but fascinating. Even more miraculous is the
animals' m ter fearlessness. They don't give a hoot about
humans. Sea lions might give a lazy bark when

MUST-TAKE. ..
Bradts Galdpagos
Wildlife (1 6.99)
-much more

digestible than
On the Origin
ofSpecies.

you mistake them for a rock and almost seep on chem.


A Nazca booby sitting on irs nest looks utterly unfussed
by your interesr in ics egg. A giant tortoise curiously
meets your gaze.
Off-land, the snorkelling and diving are wondrous. Swim
wich dinosaur-like marine iguanas and friendly baby sea
lions (and with ominous hammerhead sharks), before
heading back to the Grace for hoc chocolate or passion-fruit
cocktails in che ho c- rub on deck. There's a library for evening
Q&As if you feel like swatting, a sun d eck for lolling and
an alfresco dining area where you can feast on the freshest
ceviche, locally caught lobster and grilled grouper.
A most graceful ending to any natural history lesson.
BOOK IT Journey Latin America Uourneylatinamerica.co.uk;
020 874 7 8315) offers an 11-day Ecuador and Galapagos
trip, including two nights at the Casa Gangotena in Quito
and seven nights aboard the Grace, from 5,674 a person,
including flights, transfers, excursions and breakfast. t>
*The blue-footed booby, which enters the water
at 70mph. **Because of thermoregulation
(if one leg is tucked under its feathers, it's
because the water is cold ; if it leaves it hanging
out and spreads its webbed foot, it's cooling
down). ***Looking for a bigger house.

GRAN HOTEL

BAHIA DEL DUQUE RESORT

THE TA1s collecT10N

Villa Las Mimosas

Spa Bahia del Duque Resort

SPA
BAHIA DEL DUQUE RESORT
by t:OCCITANE

Villa Las Mimosas bedroom

El Duque beach

W LEADING

IWI

HOTELS

www.bahia-duque.com

1.9.9J-201J

0 0

TH

BOAT SPECIAL

MUST-PACK
A first-class pair
ofbinoculars

Haggis ahoy!

HEBRIDES
Eating like a laird aboard the little
liner that Her Majesty loves. By Ciara Parkes

PUDDING ABOARD
THE PRINCESS

s there anything more romantic than being piped


aboard a ship? Not just any ship, mind, but the
Queen's ship - yes, the QUEEN'S ship - moored
in the crimson dusk of Scotland's Western Isles,
ligh ts blazing, a him of mulled wine in the air. No. Of
course there isn't.
The Hebridean Princess is demure and unprepossessing ic started life pootling around as a car ferry. Besc to come
clean, though: it's not actually the Queen's ship, but she has,
on occasion, chartered it for her summer holiday with her
nearest and dearesr. Genteel to a faulc, it is now a small,
private cruise liner - all polished teak, fresh paim and a
whiff ofBrasso.
After the Highland fanfare of arrival, we were led to our
discreetly decorated cabin: inch-thick carpets, grandly
canopied duck-down beds and draped wi ndows. I fervently
hoped that Camilla's pillows had had a good squeeze in
this very cabin.
Then it was time for supper, served at tables
beside huge windows, and very good it was
too. T here was lots oflocal stuff on the
m enu, including lobster, baked crowdie
(a sort of Scottish cream cheese),
West Coast scallops, g rilled wild seabass
and, yes, haggis. D o n't pull a face - it

MUST-TAKE
just Kids by Patti

Smith- !loved
this book
and wanted to
re-read it
somewhere quiet

J60

TATLER JUN E lOll

BREAKFAST
ABOARD THE
HEBRIDEAN
PRINCESS

was actually rather nice, in a steamy, offaly sort of way.


But dinner is really about checking out your fellow
passengers, and check them out we did - they were smart
and jovial to a head, even if we were a quarter-century younger
than everyone else. Dinner was followed by an evening
talk in the lounge about the places we would be visiting.
Surprisingly, the seating area's central feature is a I 0-tonne,
turn-of-the-century brick and oak-beam fireplace that
looks as if it's been nicked from a Luryens manor.
Lulled by the gentle waves, we slept heavily and woke up
in C rinan, our window filled with the coppery branches of
larch woods, shrouded in thick mist. A quick breakfast and
then it was off to the shore, where Ann, the ship's residenc
guide, took us on a merry jaum around the coastal villages.
Ann knows about everything, from the extraordinary
Jacobite drover's routes to the history of the treacle-black
17 th-cemury Cri nan Canal. It is rather like having your
own little Stephen Fry tucked in your back packer.
The following day we visited the village of Kilmartin,
an ancient settlemem scattered with mystical standing
MUSTsto nes. It is obligatory, Ann informed us, to hug one for
DRINK
luck. Ir made my chest damp.
A dram of
We anchored at Tayvallich, where red deer wandered peaty whisky
on deck
along the edges of the pine forests. T he visit to the
Isle ofJura was cancelled because the Sound of
Jura is treacherous in bad weather - and bad weather
1
there was. Holed up in our cabin, we sipped fro m
a tiny decanter of peat-perfect whisky and watched
the curlews fly past instead. On the last day, we alighted
at the fad ed port ofCampbeltown, once home to
the McCartney family (and a fleet of herring boars) but
now more famous for the Springbank distillery, which
produces some of the softest whisky in the world.
Before leaving the comforting confines of the Princess for
good, we had afternoon tea and a dram of
whisky on the deck, where we watched
seabirds fighting the sumo-girthed seals for
fish scraps. 'Nae man can tether time or
tide,' wrote Robbie Burns. T his boat does
a pretty good job of it. 0
BOOK IT Hebridean Island Cruises (hebridean.
co.uk; 01756 704704) offers seven nights on
the Hebridean Princess from 2,565 a person ,
including transfers, meals and excursions.

TRAVEL

WHERE TO GO ... FOR AWATERY WEEKEND


WANT TO ACTUALLY GET WET?

ADRENALIN JUNKIE?

WILDWATERS
LODGE Uganda

SOLITAIRE LODGE
New Zealand

CASA MORADA
Florida Keys

INLE VILLA RESORT


&SPA Burma

Hold on co your hars. This place


is wild. A bristle of forest with
churning rapids at every turn.
The lodge is set on a private island
in the middle of two tributaries of
the Ugandan N ile, so you'll be
picked up in a kayak and paddled
across the swirling eddies by nifry
oarsmen. Then it's o nro the
island, with its wooden walkways
snaking over the forest floor to
your own two-storey creehouse.
Loll in the roll-top bath on
d eck, hanging right over the
rapids, or dip into the lodge's
pool - river-fed and carved from
the rock. Built by Kiwi wild man
Cam McLeay, the place boasts
oodles of activities - white-water
rafting, bungee jumping,
kayaking. And jetboating, w here
you thunder upriver at 55 miles
an hour, bouncing over rapids
and doing 360 spins to drench
the rafters. Hats, people, hats.

Make nice wirh rhe proprieror


of this lakeside lodge. H e
also owns a speedboat, so he's
your new best bud.
G ee him to whizz you over to
the far side of volcanic Lake
Tarawera at dawn, and flop inro
a small rock pool (perfeccly
shaped for bottoms) for a soak.
Ir's profoundly soothing co
sic in steaming thermals as little
eddies of freezing water lap
against you (and there is no
berter cure for a hangover). T hen
it's full steam back to the
lodge for hoc coffee and eggs.
This place has been around a
while buc has recently had some
nipping and tucking - new sofas,
new beds, thick carpets. The
region is sulphur central, and you
can be smothered in local
mineral-rich mud ar rhe hotel's
spa, w hich, like the restaurant, is
staffed by the most delightful
team you'll ever meet. Go
hiking or fishing, or find a
roaring fire to lean near
while drinking martinis and
sucking olives.

A sweer, sunny geraway on one of


the sleepiest islands in the Florida
Keys. Let's be honest, there's
bugger all co do on Islamorada,
other than watch the palm fronds
sway against neon-blue skies, but
that's the poinr. Casa Morada is
simple and discreet, so much so
that you might not see another
soul as you pad from your
bright-white suite to the pool and
back. No restauranr either, so it's
like sraying at a friend's secluded
beach house - with laid back staff
who pop up only when need ed
(cockrail hour) and wirh whopping
views of the bay. So you'll spend
your day swinging in a hammock
or curled on a lounger in the
tropical gardens, watching the
waves lap against the mangroves
(there's no beach) and catching
sundown at the end of rhe pier
with a frui ry cocktail in hand.
Feeling rescless? Take to the waves
in the horel's sailboat - the
captain will poocle along the coast
while you bask on the back, the
warm, salry air in your hair.

Try co arrive jusr before sunser.


You'll be met at the jerry and led
to your lakeside villa, where you
must grab a glass of somerhing
chilled and sit out on your own
terrace to catch the sun going
down. The villas, all builr from
local wood, are on the eastern side
of the lake, where you gee the
very besr sunset view. And what a
view: floating islands, villages on
stilts, Intha fishermen rowing by
with their peculiar leg-driven oars,
water buffalo snuffling in the rice
paddies. C hef U Mya W in trained
ar the renowned [Opera resrauranr
in Rangoon, and he stuffs the local
nafme fish with shan coriander,
lemongrass and vegetables
from the garden. H erby 'good
night' beverages send you off on a
splend id sleep and you wake
to piping-hoc English Breakfast
tea, exotic fruits - and that
view from your d eck.

BOOK IT Cox & Kings


(coxandkings.co.uk or 0845
154 8941) offers six nights
in Uganda, including two nights
at Wildwaters, from 3,145 a
person including flights, transfers,
meals and excursions.

BOOK IT From 679 a night, full


board (solitairelodge.co.nz).

BOOK IT Sea-view suites,


from 250 (casamorada.com;
001 305 664 0044).

BOOK IT Cleveland Collection


(clevelandcollection.co.uk;
020 7843 3531 ) offers 10 days
in Burma, including two nights at
the lnle Villa Resort & Spa, from
2,049 a person, including flights,
transfers and breakfast.

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Searching for your

perfect getaway?

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Luxury Hot els Spas Venues

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4Reaso ns hotel + bist ro, Turkey

STARS

ZODIAC
BY S HELLEY VON STRUNCKEL

GEMINI
20 May-20 June
Dec/utter your life The Gemini
New Moon on the 10th triggers
a fresh start. Begin considering
now what - and who - you
could do without.
Speak frankly Ignoring only
causes confusion. Be forthright.
This achieves solutions.
Best ofthe month When
abandoned plans, and recent bur
also unrealised ideas, all come
together. And rather spectacularly.

CANCER
21 June-21 July
Let the past go Outdated passions,
dreams, even resentments are
doing you no good. Say a firm
farewell to chem.
List your goals After months of
others coming first, it's your turn.
Decide now what you want.
Best ofthe month Looking
forward to the year of superb
riming and good fortune that
Jupiter, in Cancer from
26 June, brings your way.

LEO
22July-21 August
Rethink your priorities Once
you've committed to a person,
plan or goal, you never
give up. In certai n cases, it
would be wise to do so.
Be patient O thers' ideas may be
exciting. Still, they'll rake a very
long rime to finalise them.
Best ofthe month Offers that
come from our of the blue
during June's final week.
Waste no rime on debate.
Just say yes.

V IRGO
22 August-21 September
Listen to everybody You know
who's reliable and, as importanrly,
who isn't. Yer now chose whose
advice you'd normally ignore
could prove surprisingly helpful.

J64 TATLER JUNE 201 3

A burden shifted Realising you


can trust others is a huge relief.
Best ofthe month After having
wresrled with worrying dilemmas,
you suddenly discover a
completely unexpected method of
working things our.

L IBRA
22 September-22 October
Just say yes What's coming your
way is so promising you're wary.
You needn't be. These concepts
or opportunities are for real.
Broaden your horizom Life's
encouraging you ro think, work,
live and love di fferen rly.
Best ofthe month Seeing enforced
changes as no loss. T hey're
freeing you ro pursue glorious, if
unexpected, developments.

SCORP IO
23 October-21 November
Not all battles are worthy You're
fi ghting ro preserve arrangements
that should be part of rhe past.
Say yesfirst Ordinarily you'd
analyse ideas or offers in depth
before even considering chem.
Now you're berrer off simply
plunging in.
Best ofthe month Enjoying bei ng
free of obligations you once
regarded as inescapable.

SAGITTARIUS
22 November- 20 December
There's no rush T he Sagi rtari us
eclipsed Full Moon on 25 May
influences everything from close
alliances to your deepest personal
feel ings. Understanding these
is bound ro rake rime.
Ignore others' concerns Your
instincrs rightly say ideas or
offers are thrilling - if sudden
or wKonventional.
Best ofthe month Others come
through on their promises.

CAPRICORN
21 December-18January
Befrank Keeping concerns to
yourself helps nobody.
Tell others exactly what's on
your mind.
Go within The Capricorn Full
Moon on 23 June heightens your
emotions. What you learn from
doubts could be more
informative rhan upbeat feelings.
Best ofthe month The moment
you recognise that out-of-the-blue
offers are for real.

AQUARIUS
19 January- 17 February
Tttlk issues over After often
listening to o thers' problems,
doing it again seems pointless.

STAR STRUCK

GEMINI

Baroness Shackleton of Belgravia, 26 May 1956


With their instinctive cleverness, Geminis make even the most
complex of challenges look easy. Take mega-divorce solicitor
Fiona Shackleton. She had a slow start, detouring into cordon
bleu catering before qualifying as a solicitor. But then, Geminis
often have more than one career. Soon the focus indicated by the
Sun's link to organised Saturn, and those between the warrior
planet Mars, secretive Pluto and Jupiter, symbol of law (and
good fortune), took over. Her quick mind and fearlessness have
led to astonishing financial awards for her clients, reports of
breathtaking bills and one attack that backfired on her assailant when client Sir Paul McCartney's soon-to-be-ex, Heather Mills,
dumped a jug of water on S hackleton in court in 2008. The result?
A jubilant press praised the solicitor's sleek 'wet hair' look.

Puzzled by changes in the dates ofsome signs>You'll learn


why at shelleyvonstrunckel com

This rime, however, they'll be


willing to face facts.
Say what you want Others are
confused. Tell all.
Best ofthe month Recognising
happy moments with loved
ones as more than that.

PISCES
18 February- 19 March
Take the plunge The eclipsed Full
Moon on 25 May turns the ideas
you've been talking about into
very real possibilities. And now.
Believe in miracles Discuss
the astonishing developments
reshaping your life. But don't let
cynics derail your enthusiasm.
Best ofthe month Putting yourself
first. For ages you've gone along
with others' plans.

ARIES
20 March-18 April
&pl.ore everything You may think
you're open-minded. Bur who
and what you meet duringJune's
first half makes you realise how
much you've been ignoring.
Leave decisions to others Usually
you're in charge. Bur what ochers
are organising is roo good to miss.
Let them take the lead.
Best ofthe month Delegating
gives you free time.

TAURUS
19 April-19 May
Let the dust sett/,e After a
tricky couple of months, you're
unsure what's what.
Take a chance While most
opportunities appear with
facts to back them up,
what's coming your way now
won't. Waste no rime
on questions. Experience
will be far more informative.
Best ofthe month Looking
back on what you've
achieved , much of
it while focusing
on something else entirely.

1/Jis is tht pagt yo11'rr k!okingfor


CO NTIN UED FROM PAGE ll l

opponents with a Kremlinesque tirade of his


own. 'Carbonise Warmisc Delusioniscs' is how
he prefers to term chem.
According co Corbyn's theory, global
temperature is driven by sunspots, not by
concentrations ofC0 2 in the atmosphere.
'There are times in astronomical history when
the sun has been churning our more scuffprotons and electrons and what have you than at ocher times. When the sun has plen ty
of these sunspots, he bathes the earth in
abundant rays. When the solar acne diminishes,
it seems the earth gees colder. N o one contests
chat when the planet palpably cooled in
1645-1715 ... there was a diminution of solar
activity... and it is the view of Piers Corbyn
chat we are now seeing exacdy rhe same
phenomenon.' I need hardly say chat chat is
not the voice ofCorbyn but of Boris Johnson,
summarising Corbyn's theory. Corbyn
elaborates, scattering charcs and diagrams and

'The winters will be


more like when Dickens
was a boy, or colder'
talking about magnetic poles. He believes we
are abutting a new little ice age.
An ice age? A bir extreme? W hat about,
for example, Professor Richard Lindzen's
medium position: that co2has a small effect
and will be capped at about one degree?
' Lukewarmiscs! Lindzen's a lukewarmisc.
It's nothing to do with carbon,' says Piers.
'Other factors are much more important.
H ere, look.' H e p ushes a graph cowards me.
'The solar activity is now lower than NASA's
lowest prediction of fi ve years ago,' he says.
'That means we're going to gee something like
the Dalton M inimum [number of sunspots]
of 1780-1820. In the next five years, we'll
see more shorter, weccer su mmers, more colder
and snowy winters. l e won't be as cold as the
17 th century, when the T hames froze over.
More like t he winters when Dickens was a boy,
or colder.'
This may be m usic co
che ears of the su rprisingly
extensive community of
weather bloggers wich IDs like

Rupert
Darwall's book
launch. Left,
Lord Lamont.
Right, Anthony
Mould in

'Snowhoper' and 'Waiting for the Next Ice Age


*sigh*', whose annual yearning for ice and snow
may be a consequence of growing up in the
frosr-free decades. To those of us who thought
we'd be growing Burgundy by now, not so
much. Nor is the science behind it welcome
among the scientifically orthodox: Corbyn
spent mosc of our coffee complaining char rhe
Govern ment won't organise an evidence-led
d ebate on the subject, chat the president of the
Royal Society doesn't answer his letters.
And here is where a solitary maverick like
Corbyn aligns with an Establishment
commentator like Darwall and an organisation
like Lord Lawson's group, che Global Warming
Policy Foundation, which has Mace Ridley
and Professor 'Lukewarmisc' Lindzen on irs
board of advisers. Noc fo r being climatechange 'deniers' but for a shared apprehension
chat government science, used co drive energy
policies, has come adrift from the real thing,
and chat science itself is the loser. They want
the full range of informed opinion to be
aired, they wane balance, they wane room for
d oubt and uncertainty, not just 'the dull
cercainties of the PR man and the politician',
as one Royal Society fellow put it. We should
wan t chat coo; and the scientific community
and Government should heartily sup port it,
because nothing malces the ignorant more
glitteringly suspicious than the sense that
information is being withheld and controlled
by a jealous, priestly caste. Look at the Mee
Office website and read its mission statement:
to play 'a vical role in p roviding evidence co
support climate predictions which show
che planet is now locked into at least 2C
of warming'. How can chat be right? The
purpose of science is co rest hypotheses, nor co
support pred ictions.
It's hard co see chat scientific integrity will ever
be a cause as fashionable as polar bears. Who
will th row the gala ball? Who will provide the
champagne, model the T-shirt? Who will make
the charity accessories - 'Every handbag sold
helps co ask a question in the Royal Society'? As
C rispin O dey remarked, winding up his speech:
'Rupert has written an
enormous book on a subject
chat slightly bores one, but it's
never boring.' lc's true. He's
built a shapely narrative out
of an arid rubble of protocols,
summits, committees and
enough acronyms to fill a
departures board ac H eathrow.
'An acrony mious d ebate!'
How we laughed. An
acronymious, acrimonious
debate, and one we will
be seeing more often. 0

25

USES FOR YOUR


COPYOFTATLER

World's

12

smallest
toboggan.

Fascinating
placemat.

14

Emergency
plate.

16
Paparazzi
shield.

Sudden
missile
during any
disagreement.

18
Draughtexcluder.

Tent for a
tiny puppy.

20
Musical
instrument
in a spontaneous
jam session.
Papier-mache
fruitbowl.

22

9
Makeshift
saddle.

To steady
an all-too
wobbly table.

24
Eco-friendly
cat litter.

TATL ER JUNE 20 13

165

FIRST

EVER

TEEN

TATLER

PARTY!

WITH

TUESDAY 9 JULY
AT SUPPERCLUB, NOTTING HILL
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BUCKINGllAM

GUYS&DOLLS
High fashion stuns Stowe with thefrill ofit all

he boys felt the heat under their starched


collars at this year's Stowe Fashion Show,
while watching Ruby Mills, Laetitia Spooner
and a bevy of Stowe beauties march down
the carwalk in Bruce O ldfield couture gowns including a wedding dress - to the tune of
Rihanna's 'Diamonds'. The pressure didn't
let off there: backstage, the boys were put to
work ironing their shirts before modelling
designer-label Twat' velvet jackets. Sounds like
the show's organiser, the sassy Ella May
Sangster, was playing a good gag on them but the joke was worth it, because the C ancer
Vaccine lnstirute benefited from the hilarity.

PHOTO BOOTH
Say 'Comic Relief!'

NOTTING HILL

AND ... ACTION!


Film fans turn out to fight malaria
he screening of Mary and Martha,
written by Richard Curtis to raise
money for Comic Relief, was noisy. The din
was partly the sound of 85 women (with
a Twitter reach of seven m illion between
them) feasting on doughnuts, hot dogs
and bumper bags of Maltesers, but the decibel
count was dominated by sobbing - the film
casts a spotlight on the battle against malaria,
telling the story of two grief-stricken mothers
who lose their sons ro rhe disease and srrive
to educate the world about the preventable
illness. Jo Yirrell, on whom Brenda Blethyn's
characrer was based, was ar rhe screening
- and despite the plush surroundings of the
Elecrric Cinema, her brave and sad story
pur everyrhing inro perspecrive.

HELEN FIELDING &


MARIELLA FROSTRUP

ST .IAMES'S

OVER THE MOON


Bum's the word at Mums birthday do

Louise Burrell threw a party with


]L ady
rwo prerequisires. Firsr - the facr rhar ir
was her birthday would be kept secret.
Second - rhere were ro be absolurely no speeches.
Unforrunarely, her mother, rhe Dowager
Duchess of Argyll, and Fiona Dreesmann
had other ideas and presented her with an
H ermes bag. And if that didn't give the game
away, rhen rhe candle-laden, Ferrari-shaped
birrhday cake certainly did rhe trick. She
had more luck on rhe speeches from, wirhour
so much as one wine glass being clinked.
Phew! Unril, chat is, four-year-old Bertie
Burrell decided ro make a coasr of his own
and mooned rhe whole parry. Borroms up!

VI V E L A DIFFEREN C E

Marc Anthony and


Chloe Green

Kristen McMenamy and


Ivor Braka

Mary-Kate Olsen and


Olivier Sarkozy

Eric Stonestreet and


Charlize Theron

Professor Green and


Millie Mackintosh

TATLER JUN E 2013

J69

DALSTON

MAKING SWEET MUSIC


Carousing in the key ofcool
esigner Olivia von Halle instructed friends
co 'dress up' for her 30th birthday ar the
Dalston Boys Club. Bur losing fairh in her guesrs'
fashion know-how just days before the parry,
she sent our the Merriam-Webster dictionary
defi nirion: 'To present in the most attractive o r
impressive lighr.' They cook heed - a multitude
oflovelies rolled through the door and, shockingly
for some, onro the stage co perform karaoke with
a band. T he McIDbbin sisters wowed with 'Son
of a Preacher Man'. Tom Slattery and lain Russell
owned rhe stage with 'Islands in the Scream'.
And Hugo von Halle warbled his way through
some sort of love song, spurred on by a bet made
by Toby Bingley and Clayton Woltz. When
the microphone was final ly switched off, it was
time for the guests co go ho me - though not to
rheir beds. T hey all slunk back co the hostess's
house to slip into her label's silk-pyjama range and
soothe their croaky vocal cords wirh gin and conics.

Photographed by DARREN GERRISH

KENSINGTON

LEADING LADY
A Renaissance woman wows 'em

ou wouldn't believe char Leonie Frieda


had lose all h er invaluable address books
a couple of years ago, when the roof of her
house blew off in a storm. Sir David Davies
threw her a parry ar rh e O rangery for rhe
launch of her book The Deadly Sisterhood:

A Story oJWomen, Power and Intrigue in the


Italian Renaissance, 1427-1527, and ir was
heaving with friendly faces from every
walk ofli fe: Prince and Princess Michael of
Kent, gal lery owner Count Edmondo di
Robilant, writer Lady Gabriella Wmdsor
and Leon ie's ex, historian Andrew Roberts.
Nor should you believe her claim ro be
'lamentably our of couch' with the youth
- Francis Boulle would n't leave her side after
bei ng introduced, following her and Clarissa
Nadler around in awe fo r rhe whole evening.

MAYFAIR

EVER MIND THE WEATHER


Climate change under the literary microscope

lf r was a cold, cold night when Crispin Odey threw


Jla parry fo r rhe launch of Rupert Darwall's The
Age ofGlobal ~rming: A History. Waiters from Le
Gavroche provided quails' eggs and lobster beigners
ro feast upon - neither of which, thankfolly, has been
affected by climate change (see Nicola Shulman's
'Apocalypse or Amockalypse?', page 128). Odey
balanced his welcoming words skilfully, mounting a
rickery chair ro deliver his speech, while sober-suited
politicians mixed with aristocrats - and, for one night
o nly, jolly 'hockey stick' graphs (an environmentalist
term) united Dominic Lawson and Princess

Katarina, Lady de Silva.

Photographed by DAFYDD JONES

C ll ELSEA

PEDIGREE CHUMS
How much is that doggie in the window?

erhaps pooches Tallulah, Molly and


Bunsen had assumed they were setting
our for 'walkies' around Barcersea Park, buc
their owners preferred to go 'shoppies' at
Austique for the pop-up of hip French
boucique die Space, run by Julia Van Hagen
and Tallulah Rufus Isaacs. le may have been
a Wednesd ay bur a late- Friday-night playlisr
rocked (as Rebecca Hoffnung quipped),
and it wasn't long before dancer BB King was
showing off his moves and Emily Lopes,
Lady Alice St Clair Erskine and che resr of
rhe crowd were comperi ng wirh his groove. le
was hours afrer closing char rhe pups finally
rolled ouc of rhe door, howling ar che moon.

Photographed by DARREN G ERRISH

SOLJTll KENSINGTON

RATTLING THE RAFTERS


Warbling/or a worthy cause in west London

ho knew AJan Titchmarsh could


sing? H e belted ouc hymn afcer hym n
wich Phyllis Logan and Allen Leech ac a
concerc in aid of C hild Bereavemenc UK,
praccically lilting che roof off Holy Trinicy
Brompeon. Sibling ace Emilia and Freddie
Fox read wh ile the merry runescers cook
cime co draw breach, buc ic wasn'c long before
che chorus scarced up agai n, wich Jamie
Lowther-Pinkerton joining in che singalong ...

SEXY HN SPECS

STING'S SPECS
COCO SUMNER

WE STILL FANCY HIM


SPECS
BILL NIGHY

THUNDERBIRD SPECS SPONGECAKE SPECS


SUE PERKINS
ISAAC FERRY

SWOONY SPECS
SOPHIA ROGGE

QUITE SILLY SPECS


FREDDIE HESKETH

NOTTING Hitt

THEROAROFTHECROWD
Bobbing and weaving at a boxing bash

1f t was more than playfol fisticuffs at the Lily


Ji Foundation's C harity Boxing N ight. This
was the real deal: paramedics were at rhe ready
and Stuart Peters had pulled out early, having
already broken his nose d uring fierce training
at David Haye's gym. None of this helped Susie
Fenwicke-Clennell's nerves - her son was
fighting. But, happily, her battling boy Olly won
his bou t. Not so lucky, though, was Hugo
Lawrence, who found himself in A& E with a
broken hand the next morning. Yet it wasn't
all shattered bones and bruises: bikini-dad babes
patrolled the ring between battles and Balearic
beats soo thed the crowd. Violence is, of course,
never the answer, but chis time the fights were fo r
a good cause: research into mirochond rial disease.

Photographed by ALEX WILSON

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carved ceremony room or In a church of your choice, you can enjoy
Champagne and cana~ in the martlled foyer gleaming every
moment of your special day. For more Information. call 01245 20rrt77.
email teresa@borehamhouse.co.uk or visit www.borehamhouse.co.uk
16. Clarabel Jewellery specialises In beautiful bespoke accessories for your perfect day. The stunning
collection includes Swarovski tiaras. vintage bands and combs, flower girt acx:essories and alternative
wedding bouquets of buttons. felt and lace. Each piece, lovlngl)I handmade by Claire. can accommodate
any colour combination you require for a tniy unique touch_ Visit www.clarabeijewellery.co.uk or
www.facebook.com/clarabeljewellery for more lnlormation.
T7. Bridesm1lds Boutique is a specialist shop dedicated to providing the discerning bridesmaid
and ftower glrl with their pick of the most elegant hand selected dresses and accessories.
Visit bridesmaidsboutique.co.uk to see the stunning collection. Email contact@bridesmaidsboutique.co.uk
or call 01883 743196 for more information.
11. Sundae Surprise. A Vintage Tea Party is the perfect way to celebrate a birthday or hen party!
Sundae Surprise specialises In handcrafted afternoon teas of delicate sandwiches, delicious scones and decadent
cupcakes, served on pretty vintage china and washed down with the finest teas. Customise your party by adding a
burlesque lesson or pin~p makeover. Visit SundaeSurprise.co.uk or call 01494 4370TI for more Information.

19. Cella Dr111ounrs wedding gowns are beautlfully unique. with a simplicity to their design. They are mostl)I made of
fabrics such as silk satin, silk tulle. cotton tulle, chiffon and lace and have a vintage element Some gowns have original
vintage lace applied on the fabric, which has been sourced from vintage markets all around the world. Her clothes are
easy to wear and have a "glrly bohemian" element, perfect for a summer wedding! Visit www.celladragounl.com for
more Information.

2D. lay Gardeiu a..dl Resort a 5111' Roclnq Bay, Saint lda. Perfect weddings deserve a perfect setting; enter,
Bay Gardens! Amidst lush rollilg hills, soft white beaches and glistening Caribbean waters, this treasure trove in
paradise emits flawlessness! We're In a daze over this award-wiming resort It's settled on a spectacular oceanfront location among Sant Lucia's top attractions and
offers personalised wedding services - they treat you like the princess you are! Make your dream-day a reality in the world's leading honeymoon destination.
Visit www.baygardensweddlngs.com email weddlngs@baygardensresorts.com or call 0808-101-7370.
Z1. A T7th century Palladlan mansion set In the Oxfordshire countryside, Aynhoe Part! Is a unique setting to host elite parties, glamorous weddings and luxury

country house weekends - all with Just a touch of English eccentricity. Just over an hour from London. Aynhoe Park is perfect for all types of events and its
12 beautiful bedrooms offer a lavish retreat VtSit www.aynhoepark.co.uk email thebutier@aynhoepark.co.uk or call 01869 810 636. Aynhoe Park. Aynho,
Oxfordshire, OXT7 3BQ.

19

22. For stuming timeless photography, look no further than Mitzi d Margary. Mitzi's disaeet and unobtrusive approach

embraces the natural ftow of your day, creating fresh and elegant Images that truly capture its very essence - preserving
your memories for years to come. For further Information, visit www.margaryweddlngs.com or call Mitzi on 07813 850 339.

23. Rlcbard OgdH. An outstanding coUectlon of engagement and wedding rings. a bijou Ring Room In the historic
Burlington Arcade and a team of experienced Jewellery craftsmen: Richard Ogden would be defighted to help you 6nd
or design that special ring. To create a precious memento,
the Inside of your ring can be engraved with a message or a
date. A Ring Guide comprising a set of 10 postcards with their
most beautiful designs Is available on request
Visit www.rlchardogden.com or call 020 7493 9136.

18

TAnER ADVERTISING FEATURE

HERE COMES THE SUN ...


1. Out of India Textiles are
Introducing their beautiful must
have range of sarongs and matching
beach bags for that perfect Summer
accessory! All their textiles are
100% cotton and hand blocl< printed In
India. Their stunning range includes
leisure wear - lairtas. pJ bottoms. his/hers
kimonos. table linens and quilted
bedcovers. Price of pictured sarong 35
and beach bag 35. To see the full
collectlon. visit www.outofindlatextlles.com or find them at stand G3S at the Spirit of
Summer Fair, 15th-18th May, Olympia. For further information, call IJ7887 803319 or
email outofindia@hotmail.co.uk
2. Say ic.ftll111 - Everything you need for a beautiful holiday rrom St Barths at
Buy securely online. Unique beachwear kaftans and tops just in.

nl!l!ll!lllll.'~i) www.louisesandberg.com -

3. Harris 1'weed BouUque creates stuming handcrafted accessories for you and your home rrom genuine
Harris Tweed in the Outer Hebrides. Keep yourself and your gadgets stylish with their range or traditional or
contemporary colours. Visit www.harrlstweedboutique.com or call 07931 444 837.

41. Uzzle Olartton Hand!Ygs create beautifully handmade bags as well as commission pieces designed In
collaboration with clients. creating an exclusive and unique piece for you. Whether you have a perfect handbag
In mind or an old favourite that you Just cannot bear to part with, Lizzie Charlton can either design or remake
your perfect bag. Visit www.llzzlecharltonhandbags.co.uk to view the ful collection. ca11 01694 724673 or
email lizzie@lizziecharltonhandbags.co.uk ror further information.

5. Supportld ly Rain. Impress at a summer festival, with a unique raincoat made from recycled
umbrellas. Browse the one - off coUectlon of SUPPORTED BY RAIN at
www.ecoluxelondonboutlque.com or email lnfo(!)ecoiuxelondon.org for
,._ more information.

6. Fnnch Velvet. Traveli ng castvnere Wrap! Chic, styish, yet perfectly


practical Light as air, folds Into a square, fits Into a hand bag. Made In Scotland
rrom 100% cashmere. 200. Visit www.frenchvelvelco.uk or
c.ill +44 (0)1325 460669.

7. llyaBlueBeac.11 wm make you look and feel fabulous on holiday as the


styles and beautlful fabrics are designed to enhance any body shape or
size. Buy Cotton Cover-ups, Dresses, Beach Kaftans and light weight
Tunics for every holiday occasion and destination Jn sizes 8-20.
Order tel: 0116 2414627. Free Postage. Visit www.MyaBlueBEACH.com

L Calvet. Whether in London, Paris. New Yorlt or Buenos Aires,


you'll always look elegant, seductive and Irresistible when carrying
their TURNER clutch Jn luscious Tangerine Tango crocodile! Features c.alfskln
interior, zippered pocket. detachable chain, gold-gilt budde, magnetic
closure and brass feel Exquisitely and passionately handcrafted at
CALVET PARIS. Visit www.calvetparls.com
9. The perfect travel companion ly Stamo: wrinkled, satin.
silk organza manteau. Dress It up or down and wear it by the
pool or a cocktail party. It has a big yoke which can also be
wom as a hood. Comes folded In a small pouch. Sold
exclusively at www.ecoluxelondonboutique.com or
email lnfo@ecoluxelondon.org for more infonmatlon.

10. V6rlt6 Louise Swimwear offers a wide selection of


swimwear and holiday accessories. 2013 is the year or the one
piece, with bold prints, solid pastel colours and chic lines that
will enhance any silhouette. Carrying sizes 8 to 22. cup A to H.
Web shop coming soon. Visit www.Veritelouise.co.uk or
12 The Courtyard, Montpellier, Cheltenham. can 01242 25 35 35
for more Information.

11. Inspired by her Greek heritage, London-based fashion designer


Evangelia Thomadakls, has created the key look ror the season.
The Shin-Dress, one of her signature creations. Is combined here with
stripes. another very strong look for summer 20t3. Producing a daring and
unusual look, the Shirt-Dress can be wom from morning till night, combined
with trousers, or on its own. Jn Its black version. It can be the new Little Black
Dress. You can find more Information. and Evangelia's complete collections. here:
www.evangellathomadakls.co.uk or cal +44(0) 2085401300.

t2. Halcyon Days. Often described as "visionary", Michael Roberts is a former Fashion
Editor of the SUnday Tunes. Style Director or Taller and Oeslgn Director of British
Vogue. He has now teamed up with Halcyon Days in an exciting new collaboratJon.
Inspired by the wild, "Panthers by Michael Roberts" Is a stnl<ing collection of must have
fashion accessories. This Panthers Cuff Is the ultimate statement piece, 225. To place
an order, c.ill + 44 (0) 20 7629 8B11, visit 14 Brook Street, London W1S lBD, or order
onlfne at www.haJcyondays.co.uk

13. Olaall B Is a step outside the norm Chant.al Pilon, a Joe.ii designer, has created a
IUX\Xious shoe and handbag line that expresses the individual In au of us. Ottering
quality, comfort and fashion, you will want people to stop you and say "where did you
get those shoes?' B- lndJYidual, B- Inspired, B- admired in Chanli B! Pictured are the
l.umlere snake print ballerinas together with matching Envelope snake print bag. Visit
their pop-up shop in Bath. 9 Milsom Place, BA11BZ. View the collection and buy
onllne at www.chanlibshoes.com or call D1225 333693 to find out more.

14. The trend-setting designer label JolonI Youst impresses with its unique
concept 'Your Dress". Pictured is the Elegant ' Paris" blazer and skirt worn together
as an ensemble from the Origami Magn~tique CoQection reinterpreted with an
abundance of versatlity - In just one simple step. a sophisticated day look Is turned
Into a second, extravagant night look. The silhouette Is classically feminine, the cut
Is modem and futuristic, and the fabrics are structured and lull of character.
Visit wwwJolonte-vous.com or contact the designer Pauline Kondratuk on
+49 69 95 8615 76 to find out more about her innovative collection.

TATLER ADVERTISING FEATURE


15. Asplga. Your one stop hOliday shop! They have a
large selection of leather beaded sandals (lor kids and
men too!), Belts, Beach Baskets, Klkoys. Beach Towels,
Swimwear, Beachwear and wonderful jewellery.
Call 01264 738 862 or visit www.aspiga.com to see
the full range.

16. Kuero Is a leading designer brand that creates


artistic, innovative, high quality handcrafted handbags
by our t'ighly skilled team ot Nicaraguan Artisans using

the finest leather in Central and South America. With


the purchase of a KU ERO handbag you will be
contributing on aeatlng a positive social Impact on
artisans whO have invested their effort in the
elaboration of each handbag. Designs by Alla
Alexandra Velax.quez are unique, natural and beautiful a perfect accessorf
for spring summer season. Vtsit www.kueronicaragua.com
Facebook kuerobyalexandra or email kueronicaraguaC!Jcablenetcom.ni

17. Tiie Powder Room provides high quality individual clothing and
accessories, In a wide range or styles and sizes to suit aR ages and body shapes.
Hand-selecting their collection from exduSiVe Italian. French and BritiSh labels.
they contlnually look for unique and eye-catching pieces, away from high street
monotony. Their fabulous COiiection lndudes brands such as the dMne Out or
Xile British made line along with a beautiful new collection from Sarah Pacinl
Visit their shops In Sunvnertown. Oxford to see their ever-changing colectlon.
Visit www.the-powderroom.co.uk for further lnlormatlon or call 01865 516 256.
Visit their shop at 229 Banblxy Road, Summertown, Oxfordshire OX2 7HN.

11. Hldltdl a Key, Jermyn Street. London are the makers of the
finest quality shirts since 1899. For their full collectlon. see www.tllditchandkey.co.uk
or visit their experienced and dedicated
professionals In London at 37 Jermyn Street.
Cal +44 (0)20 7734 lflffl.
19. R-lnd Vlntlge Afhllrs are dedicated
to make shopping for vintage and pre-loved
Items tun, easy and sale. With high end brands
such as ChaneL He~s. Fendl and more,
Rewind Vintage can guarantee the
authenticity or every product Shop online at
www.rewlndvintage.com or call 07590 025456
or 020 7S6S 0886.

20. lissom lluster sell carefully selected,


skillully made clott'ing and accessorfes tor lovers ...__
or the great outdoors; lrom handmade wellington boots, to Cumbrian
tweed bags. to silk ties woven and crafted in Suffolk. Pictured are
full grain leather, brown Dress Riding Boots, skilfully made In
Northamptonshire. Available online at www.lissomandmuster.com or
In the shop at 14 Tib Lane, Manchester M2 4JA. Call 0161 832 7244
or emall lnto@llssomandmuster.com

_.......,'-------'="""...,.

21. HAUSKRFT explores the arts of ergonomics and minimalism.


Utilising the finest quality vegetable tanned leather, 'The Five
iPhone card carrier exercises the 'less is more" idiom with a
product that's made to wear in. not out 100% Handcrafted
In Los Angeles. Visit www.HAUSKRFT.com or
email Jeff@HAUSKRFT.com
22. M1nd1rln1 Shoes. Get ready for the new Royal Arrival with a
pair of Mandarina's fabulously tun and patriotic shoes. Buy onllne at
www.mandarinashoes.com or call UK 01307 819488.
23. La Posh Poche. Individually hand-made fabric bags and
accessories. Each Item Is made to be used and enjoyed every
day, and to make a real statemenl Unique in design. and made
with new and vintage materials. sourced In France and
the UK. Visit www.laposhpoche.com or
email lnfo@taposhpoche.com

a..

24. Carpet
Beautiful and unique handmade bags
from line cotton and viscose based on traditional design rugs.
They are lndivldually crafted In the UK. are stytlsh whilst
maintaining durability and Wghtness. The range includes a
wide selection lrom purses and handbags to Gladstone
bags and soft luggage. Ela:luslvely available onllne
(wor1dwide shipping) at www.carpetbags.co.uk or
call +44 (0) 1353 649749.

25. Ylraa. The popular sandal rrom the Balearlcs. view


their collection or new styles and old favourites perfect
tor the sunvners here and holidays away, in sizes 3-10.
Also available are the classic Italian loafers In suede
and leather, a range of casual clothing in
linen and cotton by Pou Nou sizes
10-18 and other accessories.
All available by mail order
all year round. Visit their shop
at Unit 3, Spring Buildings,
Water Lane. Storrington
RH20 30W - Showroom open
Wed/Thur 1Qam-3pm or
call 01903 746017. ShOp online
www.varca.com

4!1ij~;:,;

~~ii~~'.~

26. This Dar Un Maia scarf features


Gwyneth Paltrow as you have never seen her before. Wrap some celebrity skin
around YQUrs and enjoy the luxurious sensation of exquisite art and quality
fabrication. Tt'is unique fusion of art and fashion makes every DAR UN artlde a
true treasure that will refresh your style however you choose to wear il
See more at www.darlindarco.com and www.darthebook.com

-~

TAnER ADVERTISING FEATURE

TATLER'S PARENTS' GUIDE ...

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1. Shu Mootl. This saumptious multl-award-wiming Mama's Belly Rub Stretch Marie Oil,

designed with mamas in mind, is packed with Omega 3, 6 and 9 enriched oils and has been
specially formulated for use during and beyond pregnancy. Regular use of this belly rub oil can
help to maintain supple skin and Improve elasticity. To view the complete range,
vis~ www.sheamooticom email hello@sheamooti.com or call 020 n54 5440.

........ .

'

'

Established in 1996, Lss Cho.tons


nuns bi~ingual nursery schools in
SW7 (Queens Gate), SWl (Kinnerton
Street), W2 (Inverness Place) and
W8 (Kensington Square) .
Our philosophy is to provide a safe
and happy environment where
children are educated to the very
highest standard.
Open to all nationalities. Children
do not need to speak the French or
Spanish language to start learning.
Olfers children from 1 to 5 years old
full and part.time dasses together with
holiday clubs and music classes.

2. Urbllnmummy Is an online treasure trove of gorgeous nursery ac.cessories and baby gifts.
Their products are essentially hand-made using natural materials tor a naunl yet elegant look.
So If you're lookfng for something unique, visit www.urbanmummy.co.uk or call 0844 815 0590.
Quote TATL15 at checkout for an exclusive 15% discount
J. llerd Maman offers a beautiful range of bespoke gifts. Featlttd is their Father's Day
Personalised Open Disc Bracelet (39) that will be hand-engraved with the names, dates or
message of yotr choice. Treat your dad to one of these on the 16th of June and be sure to
make his heart melt For more Information, visit www.merdmaman.co.uk or call 020 7731 W .

6. ROAll. Searching tor an extra-special baby gift or celebration present for new mums and dads?? Their
discerning customers know ROAM has the perfect solution... Their bespoke caShmere blankets have been
~--;,-.,, keeping loved ones wrapped and cosy In the softest 100% Scottish (.ashmere
since 2007. Splendld, contemporary heirlooms that will raise happy smiles for
many years to come! For further informatiOI\ visit them at
www.studloroam.co.uk or call them at 01896 758 604.
7. The TradltlOMl Ollldren Campany. Beautllully crafted and coordinated
classic clothes, shoes and accessories reminiscent of times gone by for
babies and children. Its charming gift-wrapping Is a great time saving option,
tool New store opening In Hampstead - May 2013.
Visit www.thetraditionalchildrencompany.co.uk or call on9S 347276.
The Hundred Acres Toy Store, 82 Heath Street. Hampstead. London NW31DN.
I. Doodle bJ Stitch. Designed to make everyday lffe more tun and creative,
Doodle by Stitch textHes enable you to personalise your surroundings endlessly! Pictured here is their "Write-on Chef' Doodle Apron which can be
customised with recipes, menus, messages and more. Best of all, just wash at
40 degrees and use again! A great tun yet practical gift tor male and remale
chefs of all ages, these adjustable 100% cotton drill aprons
come in adult size (16.SO) and child size (13.95), each
complete with wash-out pen set and full permlSSion to doodlel
Visit www.doodlebystitch.com tor the rull collection.
Call OT722 325304 or email lnfo@doodlebystitch.com for
further Information.
9. llacarons. This beautiful summer dress is made out of
a great premium organic fabric In a summery macarons
signature mustard/white print It is perfect for all festive
events such as weddings, birthdays and baptisms but also for
everyday wear. The short wing sleeves and the nacre button
line on the back make this dress elegant yet playful.
Visit www.macarons-shop.com for more exquisite pieces all
made In Germany or contact 49 21613045 OrJT or
info@macarons-group.com
10. Jessie nd James met whilst working together for
Vrvienne Westwood. Their ethos Is to produce modern. high
quality clothing, using lmovatlve cutting principles to create
new silhouettes through garments which are fun, comfortable,
practical and always fashionable. The collectlon Is for babies,
boys and glr1s and Is available for newborns to 7 years.
Stockists include Childrensalon, Liberty and Harvey Nichols.
Visit wwwjessieandjames.co.uk
emall lnto@jessleandjames.couk
or cal 07885 84m6 with enquiries.

n. Studio Deidre offers a truly personalised


service, with a simple, dean and natural style.
Her gorgeous light-filled studio is in the heart
of Kensington & Chelsea. where her clients
have been spreading the word for several
years now. gushing about not only the
stunning Images but also Deidre's
perfectionism In printing and moootlng.
Mums-to-be love how she brings out their
beauty at such an amazing life moment.. and
she even Offers styling and spa packages with
the maternity shoots. !rs the perfect way to
celebrate your pregnancy or new baby.
Maternity & Baby Photography.
Call 020 7244 9395 or visit studiodeidre.com

FOR MUM S WHO REFUSE TO COMPROM ISE

12. Yandll Changing Bap. l.Dved by celebrities such as Peaches Geldof and Una Healy, Vanchl
bags are classic, stylish and highly practical. Each bag includes beautirul accessories guaranteed to
keep the busiest or mums organised, Including a wet bag, coin/dummy purse, Insulated bottle bag,
waterproof change mat and handy pop lr\'out zip pouch for mum's essentials. Available In Faux or
Genuine Leather lrom RRP 99.95. Visit www.vanchi.co.uk or call 01730 895761.

U. ICandy - an iconic British brand which celebrate contemporary luxury, quality and textures
through Its cutting edge and Innovative design. Amongst their beautiful pushchairs Is the
stuming Peach London Limited Edition which features its own uniquely designed cotton rich
fabric with beautifully illustrated Icons from the City including the ramous London Red Bus.
Each London limited edition Is Individually numbered; so vou receive a unique chassis. along
with its very own Certilicate of Authenticity. Visit www.icandyworfd.com for more Information.
14. The Uttle Slloe Bootlque is truly a Shoe Heaven for Your little Dar~ngs. They stock an
extensive range of Designer and Quality Footwear for Boys and Girls by Lelli Kelly, Geax.
Step2wo, Moschino, Monnalisa but to name a rew, also an extensive range or Traditional Spanish
Patent shoes. For further information on thei" fabulous range of shoes,
visit www.thelittleshoebootique.com or call 01779 479758.

1S. lnfoBllnd. 10 wristband's for children, so simple yet so very effective. The solution to e!VefY
parent's worst nightmare. The infoband is a reuseable, waterproof and unbreakable wristband
that easily clips onto a child's wrist adding that vital extra peace of mind when out and about In
public spaces. Parents or Guardian need Just write their contact details onto the band
In any pen and should little Johnny wonder off he can be easily reunited With his
parents. Available In many eye catching designs, a must for active children!
Visit www.everdellco.uk or emall lnfotlJeverdell.co.uk for more Information.

16. ICrllghtsbrldge Nannies. One of London's premier namy agencies. Specialising


and providing professional nannies for tamiffes who are matched with utmost care.
The nannies are thoroughly checked and screened. For further Information. contact
Julie Brermer at Knlghtsbridge Nannies. New Kings House, 136-144 New Kings Road,
London s-116 41.Z. Call 020 7610 9232 or visit www.knlghtsbridgenannles.co.uk

nightsb~idge

17. Sodt Ons are dever little things that keep baby socks on! They are worn over the
sock to "lock" them Into place with a patent pending design. Sock Ons have won
numerous industry awards and make the perfect gift with an RRP of just 2.991
Visit www.sod<ons.co.uk to view their complete range of Innovative products
lnduding Dribble Ons bandana bibs and Mocx: Ons slipper socks. Call 020 84511516
for futher inrormatlon.
1&. f11n'da bai. Look no further than Fun'das bcn for stylish accessories perfect for your little one. Pictured is a piece from
the 'Cosmic" collection Inspired by little astronauts' adventures. Vlslt www.fundasbcn.com or call 0034 658730927 for

beautttul car seats. strolers and morel

19. llNtrhl New York. Spotted on the children of many Hollywood celebrities. Beatrix Is currently debuting in the UK. JuJu
the ladybird and Percival are shown on these back packs which holds everything a tot needs for a busy day. Constructed from
durable nylon and easy to clean laminated canvas. PVC free, lead free and pathalate free. Visit www.everdell.co.uk or
email info@everdea.co.uk for more Information.

20. Slugs and SMlls. For striking, original boys tights and luxury for little legs, look no further than Slugs and Snails. With a
celebrity foloWing, these unique designs celebrate vour child's Individuality whilst allowing them to play In comfort For more
Information, visit www.slugsandsnails.ie
21. AnaJu makes imaginative ch~dren's furniture integrating the
creative team's three passions in life: children, animals and beauty.
Drawing Inspiration from antiques, Analza produces unique
designs. hand-made by master craftsmen In small traditional
workshops using sustainably sourced wood. Plctll"ed Is the Amos
wardrobe, an impressive piece with a beautlfuDy carved lion and
decorated with child-safe paint and gold. Visit www.anaiza.co.uk
emafl tcyra@analza.co.uk or call +44 (0)7738 699388 for
more information.
22. Baby TI a-. Maternity Haute Couture lingerie 100%
handmade in Italy. A lttestyte brand for the most unique and
special mother-to-be. Gathering Inspiration from rock music and
soft punk. Baby Ti Amo responds to the real needs of women during
their maternity. They have uniquely integrated one of the most
Important themes In a gorgeous looking way, ' breastfeeding".
All of their designs aim at unifying beauty, wellness, functionality
and of course love. Because they know: "Your body is changing!
Your style doesn't!". Visit www.babytlamo.com
23. Kl ET lA. An award wiMing brand of Children's sunglasses for
ages 0-4 years old. Ki ET LA's unique design offers the maximum
Category 4 protection to a child's eyes In a ground breaking, one
piece mono-injectlon unbreakable design. Avaiable in 9 glorious
colours, each pair comes with an adjustable strap and In an organic
cotton pouch. Applying sun block to a child Is common practice, don't
forget to protect their eyes too! Visit www.everdell.co.uk or
email info@everdell.co.uk for more Information.

ann1es

17

TAnER ADVERTISING FEATURE

TATLER'S EXCLUSIVE INTERIORS ...


4

8
9

13
1. Ala Jannsen creates NI\ Imaginative ceramics which are sure to brighten up your home.
See more of her colOlrlul characters from 4th May-5th June 2013 at the Buclcenham Gallery,
Southwold, Suffolk. VISll www.ale>Qohannsen.cn.uk or call 07951 876512 for more information.
Exhibiting throughout the UK.

2. Al~ Anni duvets and pillows. alpaca is one of the most d1nble luxury fibres In the WOl1d, It
regulates the bodies varying temperature so there is no need to change your duvet between seasons.
They also have the added benelt of being tlypo-allergenic so they are ideal for asttvnatics and are
approved by the Asthma Society. Bed mites hate alpaca fibre so your duvet and pillows wll be mite
free. Visit www.alpacaannie.cnm or cal 01303 870527 for more information.

a. La CMlleca's designs are inspired by uslng

pans of everyday objects In a diffl!rent way.


Reusing cootalners. fabric scraps and upholstery
springs, their latest collection of lights Is the
perfect way to add a unique touch to any
space. You cal view the whole colectlon
and other products by La (achaca at
www.lacachacacnm Contact la Cachaca at
aleospClacachaca.co.uk or
call 020 3289 2676.

3. Bronze portraits scufpted by Jane Hamlltoa.. A wonderful way to capture the memory of a
child or adul~ to be eriJoyed for generations. Jane is a member of The society of Portrait Sculptors.
For details, email )ahamall@hotmallcnm visit www.janehamllton-sculpture.com or call 01295 750636.

9. TIM Biggest Blanket C:Omp1ny. Edgy and elegant throws. blankets and

4. Mirror llanl1. established In 1990 are experts In producing exclusive mirror designs. The new
showroom is now open, showcasing their collection of beautiful decorative glass along with their
luxury home decor including crystal chandeliers and unusual home decor. Mirrors are made to order
so can be made to arry size or colour to suit the customer, they are hand-crafted In their Norfolk
workshop. For more Information, visit www.MirrorManla.co.uk or call the Showroom on 01502 730122
or Sales on 01493 304331.

10. Must-Have Bins - loving made to be seen by Temple Trading present a


stunning collection of essential ~ry day home accessories - baskets. tissues and )ardin~res
hand made with exceptional attention to detail for luxury imeriors. Whatever your style, classic or
modern, you wil be spoilt for choice in selecting those all so Important finishing touches to your home.
ca11 them for their fabulous new brochure on 0845 528 0932 or visit at wwwJ.1ustHaveBins.co.uk

5. w Sltcb Co. Wor1dng In the trade since 1776, the Sitch family moved to their current premises In
the 1870s from where they contlooe to specialise in the reproduction and renovation of antique
lighting, be it the repar, rewiring or renovation of your own light fitting. or by offering you one from
their selectlon of thousands of antiques or one of their repro<1Jctions which are made on the
premises following traditional techniques. For turther information, visit them at 48 Berwick Street.
London Wlf 8JO. call 020 7~ rrT6. or browse www.wsitch.co.uk
6. Jenery Collrtn~ trained at the Royal Academy Schools. He works in the figuratM! tradition
palming Stlll Life. Landscape and Portraits as well as large scale murals painted In egg tempera and
traditional buon fresco. A meticulous craftsman he has made an extensive study of painting techniques
particularly the Old Masters. His wcrt not onty has lovety effects of light and atmosphere but tries to
convey the subtle presence behind the physic.al appearance. VISit www.courtneyart.net ror more
information or contact him direct on courtney.artCzen.co.uk or 01844 281366.
Commissions welcomed.

7. Sota Wortshop have re-launched their perennial favourite Grande Dame sofa in a brand new
Designers Guild fabric designed by Christian Lacroix. Butterfly Parade. If this sofa Is just a bit too
colourful for you they do have the largest collection of fabrics on the high street so there's bound to
be one you'll love, albeit a bit more subtle. Give them a call on 0844 249 9161, visit sofawoOOhop.com
or pop In one of ther shops.

accessories. Visit them at 45 Pimllcn Road, London SWIW 8NEor call 020 78234336.
Visit www.blggestblanketcn.uk for more Information.

11. Royal Academy Schools graduate lknrtetta Dubrwy's widelY collected abstract paim1ngs have
been displayed In Skandlum, on the COS website, are featured In BBC's Absolutely Fabulous", and
sell as tar afield as Long Island and Hong Kong. Chocotatier" (illusttatedl will be showcased at
A/IF Hampstead 13th-16th June, alongside her upcoming solo exhibition "Fifteen New Pa'11tlgs"
with Edgar Modem, Bath. Visit wwwedgarmodem.cnm or cal 01225 443746 or go to
www.henriettadl.Cray.eu

12. llelle's housewan! collection Is filled wrth vibrant colours and patterns sure to bri!ilten any room
in your home. tu rnele.co.uk they are passionate about prims and they love to mix both traditional and
contemporary African doths for an lntrfguilg look. Visit www.mefle.co.uk to '/few their collectlon as well
as other colour and pattern combinations for your home. Altematlvely, contact them directly at
0800 098 8375 to place an order.

13. International interior designer Sarah Jane Nielsen has created a series of luxury room designs,
whkh bring together carefulty selected Interior products from leading global brands. You can purchase
everything you need to recreate Sarah's schemes at home. select Individual products that catch your
eye, or combine several elements and put your own spin on the finished look. One of their favourite
WrM pieces pictured here Is a natlr.11 hom and hide armchair featured In ther Charcoal & Khaki Office
design scheme. Visit www.nielsenhouse.co.uk to view the full collection of schemes and products.
call 015391122433 or emaH lnfo@nielsenhouse.cn.uk for further Information.

TATLER ADVERTISING FEATURE

JEWELS FOR JUNE ...


1. Italian brand Miiena Zu is an outer-space collection of metallic mesh )eWellery
entirely crocheted by hands, edgy and chic, nature inspired and unpredictable.
Visit www.milenazu.com - there is a Jewel for every woman in there.
2. JulIA Burness Je-llry. Astrology Cuffs - This beautiful Gemini Cuff is part of
the Love Signs Collection. Available from Ori!, London or lndependentBoutique.com
Made from recycled brass and then gilt for a luxurious finish. For more l nforrna~on
on Julia Burness Jewellery, visit JuliaBurnessJewellery.com or
email lnfo@juliabumessjewellery.com

3. Alllus l>Mlgns. From her studio on the coast of northwest Scotland, artist Martha Mawson designs
and handcrafts ~.l\lst once ster1ing silver and luxury gemstone jewellery. These amethyst. carnelian and
peridot earrings provide you with endless combinations as each dangle can be swapped and
changed. 7&95 plus P&P from www.aOleasdeslgns.com
4. BAI WANT Inc. UAL is a luxury fine jewellery boutique in London's Sloane Square, fulfilling the
dreams of diamond lovers with Its exclusive collection of ethically grown. non-mined fine diamonds.
All pieces are expertly cut using the finest mater1als to ensure maximum brilliance and fire. With prices from 85,
the only difference between their stones and traditional mined diamonds is the price tag! Find the boutique at
Duke at York's. Sloane Square London SW3 4LY, call 020 7259 9555, or view online at www.brilliantlnc.co.uk
Quote TATLER for an exdus!Ve 10% discount, valid until 5th July 2013.

S. The Watch AQency specialise In buying and selling new, ex display and pre owned
-

.,

/ 1.

watches by the world's leading watchmakers, Including Rolex. Cartier, Patek Pht1ippe. and
Jaeger Le Coultre. All jewelery also available at large discounts. Pictured Lady's 18ct
Gold Rolex Datejust on President Bracelet with Diamond set Bezel Dia~ Lugs and
Bracelet. New 38.200. As New 9,995. With prices starting from under ha~ of
retail ensure that you speak to one of their watch and jewellery experts to get
the best for less. Call 01702 395100 or visit www.watchagency.co.uk
6. llz ~ler. Award winning designer jeWeller Liz Tyler delights In crea!Jng
individual precious jewellery. Liz will be exhibiting 14-16th June with Treasure at
the Embankment Galleries, Somerset House, part of Jewellery Week London.
VISlt www.llztyler.com or contact Uz on 01258 820222.

Alice II Jewellery is an eclectic mix of contemporary jewellery with a classic twist.

~~,~silver and gold jewellery are desirable statement pieces for everyday and that special occasion,
with free worldwide postage. Pictured Is the Saskia Ring, a beautiful turquoise stone with sterling silver
waves lapping over the gemstone to create a truly desirable ring. Visit www.aliceniewellery.com or
call 00353871667121. Quote TATLER for a 15% discount Offer valid until 1st July 2013.

L Jullanah Rotlml jewenery's Lush collection is simple and elegant. combining gold or silver with custom cut cubic zirconia
in bright summery colours. The collectlon Includes studs, extra long earrings and elegant lariats. They are available via her
website - Jullanahrotlml.com an<I You no Republic. She Is currently workln!) on her next collectron.
Julianah also offers a bespoke service for a more personal unique design or perfect gift
Call 0755.3 615679, Twitter - @lurvly1and Fac.ebook - Jui anah Rotimi Jewellery
9. JewelE'nr's new COCO collection Is Inspired from exotic troplcal nowers and fruits set with ruby,

n emerald, white sapphire, amethyst. peridot. dtrine and sapphire, which all perfectly renect this season's fashion
colours. The COCO collectlon best sellers are the two colour combination earrings. which are so easy
to wear for both dramatic daytime fashlon looks and a touch of evening glamour. Jewe!Ever jewellery
illl~
is available at selected stodtists and House of Fraser stores and onHne www.Jewelever.com

10. Style Never Goes Out Of Fashion. Cobra Bellamy make affolllable, classlcally designed
watches conveying timeless elegance. Pictured is the retro inspired, Cushion Cased Zenner
available in 21 carat gold plated with an Antique Face at 139 or chrome plated with a Matte
Sliver Face at 119. The Zennor Is a favourite of Sienna Miiier and here Is a quote from her:
Cobra & Bellamy Watches are classic, beautiful and affordable, I love all of them'. To see the
full range of Cobra & Bellamy Watches. go to www.cobrabellamywatches.co.uk or
call 01736 mn2 for further Information. Wholesale enquiries welcome.

,,.13 . 7~p .fpr 11. llaru Coduque. Spanish designer Coderque launches her new laK:ream gold plated rings, with
17 '::/
CAJ'e[.D'v
natural gemstones. You can stack and combine, as desired. These original rings will flt

Je

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any size! Add a fashionable design. starting at 30 In three stone sizes. Available In
sterling silver as well at www.coderque.com/en or email Coderque@coderque.com for
~ more information.
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12. ICnlghUbrklge Rocb' captlvatlng collectlon of ftne jeweUery selected to bring spartde
lo your lne. Whether you are looking for something discreetly modem to wear every day or
a bold dramatic piece to add glamour to your nights. Knightsbrldge Rocks delivers.
Hand picked by experts. discover this breathtaking array of jewels dazzling with
I; diamonds. rubles and sapphires plus signed pieces by Cartier or Stephen Webster_
1 open the box from Knightsbrldge Rocks! Visit www.knlghtsbrldgerocks.com
,. Call U77'Cf7140702 or email katie@knightsbridgerocks.com

ii

12

13. Autumn Cnlp is a sophisticated hand-crafted jewellery and acressory


line, for the chic fashlonlsta who has an eye for style. It Incorporates
natural elements that are found around the Islands of the
Bahamas with a modem flair. Bahamian Designer Chelsea
~
Johnson creates trendy, unique and versatl e one of a kind
_,,_...,,,
statement pieces that are anytime anywhere designs.
Visit www.autumncrop.com or call 00242-466-9161.

15. Ruffs. Something different bespoke signet rings in a variety of coloured stones.
Visit www.ruffs.co.uk or call 01489 57BB67.
16. Smart Girts An Faking It! If you're going out or going on holiday,
don1 be a mug._ leave the real stuff at home and take a fake!
The finest faux diamond jewellery, as worn by celebrities and
royalty all over the wor1d. comes from Heavenly Necl<laces. To see
the full range of rings. necldaces. braa?lets and earrings come to
www.heaver.lynecklacescom

TAnER ADVERTISING FEATURE

TATLER'S EDUCATION GUIDE

HURTWOOD

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Orchard House School, Chiswlck 020 8742 8544
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or Prospect House School, Putney 020 8780 0456
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TAnER ADVERTISING FEATURE

HIGH SOCIETY...
Packed with natural actives to
help brighten and tighten delicate
skin, Trilogy Age Proof CoQ10
Eye Recovery Concentrate Is
the perfect pick-me-up to
refresh tired eyes. Tlls high
performance botanical serum
helps minimise the appearance
of fine Ines and putty lids. and
can even be used over make-up.
A handbag essential.
Available at John Lewis or
trllogyproducts.com
can 020 76254 361.

FACE teller's Facade for


cheeks and lips represents the
next generation of c.oloun
Its Innovative, silicone-based
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Fragrance-free, PETA approved
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available at FACEateller.com and
select retailers worldwide.

Arabelle Skin Sense's Flght Back Serum is nutrient rich with Pomegranate Seed Oil and Sea
Buckthom Oil which aim to combat the signs of aging and Improve skin's elastldty. Use Fight Back
Serum with the Stay Young Oil Cleanser as part of vour daily skincare regime to help you look vounger
....=:=:::i=::=~for longer. The cleanser aims to
remove makeup effortlessly, deep
cleanse, combat dryness and It's
made with a blend of avocado,
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Rose Otto oil to hydrate and
moisturise and frankincense
which aims to tone.
Visit www.arabellesklnsense.co.uk
for more lnfonmation and quote
TATLER 2113for10% off yoir
order. Offer valid until
31st July 2013.

ITTJ()Ff

TATLER'S BEAUTY EMPORIUM

Trilogy

\
Xerjotf : Join The Oub
This perfume collection Is broken down Into
10 extraordinary creations of SOml each creating a new
way to understand perfume. Eac.h essence in reality
evokes a members-only club - a club where yau can
share unique moments, thanks to unconventional
perfl.mes, authentic olfactOfy c.odes that~re
recognised as members or that club. To better
understand the concept. each bottle gives
you a membership number to the
JTC Club. Using this, each club
member can access the dub
through the web. where YoU can
find aintents and exclusive
Initiatives. Try Fatal Chanm, the
perfect SCA!nt for any lashionista.
Available in the UK at
Fortnum & Mason. Piccadily.
Also available from
www.jtcperfume.c.om or
call +39 (O)TI 3167023 for
more infonmation.

't"' <t C-

- ~~" --'-~-

Pvllb Herbl. Inspired by Natural Beauty - Pukka Ayurveda Is


a deeply effective, organic skincare collectlon that inspires us
~ to look after our skin in hanmony with nature. Radiance Serum
with aloe vera, manuka honey and gently fragranced with
sandalwood wiil leave your skin feeling fresh and bright Suitable
for all skin types, even
the most sensitive. To learn more
THE OAK AND ROPE
about this innovative approach
to skincare wellbeing,
COMPANY
visit www.pukkaherbs.com
Wholefoods and Planet Organic.
Call 01T7 964 0944 for
more Information.

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Summer Essentials from Return to Glory,


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Quote TATLER for 30 mlns extra
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Call 0845
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GIFTS

FOOD Bt ORIN K

The King's Ginger was formulated by Berry Bros.


in 1903 for King Edward VII. Ricll and zesty, the
liqueur was commissioned by the Royal Physician to stimulate and revfvtty His Majesty
whilst exposed to the elements on morning rides in his new horseless
carriage. Created by the careful maceration of ginger roo~ enlivened
by the judicious addition of citrus In the form of lemon oil, Klng's
Ginger gives an unexpectedly fresh lift making it perfect for a Ki'lg's
Ginger Royale! Visit www.thekingsginger.com for more recipe Ideas
and where to buy. Available at selected Waltrose, Selfr1dges,
Wine Rack. HaNey Nichols or call Berry Bros on 08002802440.
For more Information on drink recommendations,
Visit www.theklng51llnger.com

BESPOKE SERVICES

TATLER ADVERTISING FEATURE

.~'P~ .

Finding the right school for your child can be a minefield.


The Organisers are expert at worldng with famllles to
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They have been personally managing family projects to the highest standards
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Whatever you need to get the right school place visit www.theoraanlnra.com

or call 020 7078 7554


Blad! llotll Truftl Vodlul makes the Ideal luxury
gift or a very special tjpple. Exduslve to Se/fridges
or onlne at www.bladanothvodka.com

1936 !ml'9 ls
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It's a beautifully llght and
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Buy onllne at www.1936blere.com
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King9s G inger
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After Noah
aftemoah.com
Alder 020 7409 2237
Amrapali
020 7584 4433
Asprey 020 7493 6767
Atelier Versace
183-184 Sloane Street,
SW1 (020 7259 5700)
Bonpoint 15 Sloane
Street, SW1
(020 7235 1441)
Boucheron 164 New
Bond Street, W1
(020 7514 9170)
Browns
brownsfashion.com
Bulgari 168 New
Bond Street, W 1
(020 7872 9969)
Cartier 020 3147 4850
Chanel Fine Jewellery
020 7499 0005
Chanel Haute Couture
0033144507000
Chaumet 174 New
Bond Street, W1
(020 7495 6303)
Chloe chloe.com
Christian Louboutin
020 7491 0033
Colette colette. fr
David Morris
020 7499 2200
Dawood & Tanner
deliciousteeth.com
De Beers 020 7758 9700
Dior 020 7172 0 172
Dior Haute Couture
00 33 140 73 54 44
Dior Joaillerie dior.com
Dolce & Gabbana
6- 8 Old Bond Street,
W 1 (020 7659 9000)
Elie Saab Haute
Couture
00 33 1 42 56 77 70
English Trousseau
at Harrods
Faberge faberge.com
Gaultier Paris
00 33 1 7275 83 64
Giambattista Valli
at My Theresa
Giambattista Valli
Haute Couture
00 33 1 83 62 09 04
Giorgio Armani
020 7235 6232
Hakaan
at Net-a-Porter
Harrods 02077301234

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IN 1Hl-~ USA; TheConJC Nast Publ;cutons Inc


CHAI RMANS. I. NewhOUio.!, Jr
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Harry Winston
020 7907 8800
Hermes 155 New
Bond Street, W1 S
(020 7499 8856)
The Hunting Stock
Market hunting
stockmarket.co.uk
Jason Wu
jasonwustudio.com
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jennypackham.com
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jonnyssister.co.uk
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at Harrods
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krispykreme.co.uk
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Street, SW1 (020
72459520)

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Street, SW1
(020 7235 5235)
Ports 1961
at Harrods
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Props Galore
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020 7730 6881
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at Harrods
Ro kit rokit.co. uk
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at Colette
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at Browns

Selfridges
selfridges.com
Shipton & Heneage
shiptonandheneage.
CO.Uk

Steiff steiff.com
Tabitha Simmons
at Selfridges
Tailly kiluck.co.jp
Theo Fennell
theofennell.com
Tim Little
timlittle.com
Trussed UK
trusseduk.com
Twisted Twee
twistedtwee.co.uk
Valentino
174 Sloane Street,
SW1 (020 7235 5855)
Valentino Haute
Couture
00 33 1 553516 22
Van Cleef & Arpels
9 New Bond Street,
W1 (020 7493 0400)
Virgin Pure
virgin-pure.com

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TATLER JUN E 2013

191

PROPERTY SECTION

SEASIDE SPECIAL
For those who despair of spending another damp British summer beside the sea,
Claire Pilton comes up with some European alternatives

For those who would follow in the


footsteps of F. Scott Fitzgerald, this waterfionting villa at Cap d'Antibes was home
to the novelist and his wife, Zelda, in the
1920s and undoubtedly inspired his 6naI
work Tender is die Night. Dating fiom
the 19th century, the recently renovated
interior exudes charm and elegance, with
high-ceilinged reception rooms that open
onto shady terraces, and immaculate
gardens that lead to the beach.At 800sq m,

the property includes seven b edrooms


and bathrooms, a self--<:ontained o ne-bedroom apartment, a wine cellar and bar
as well as a pool house with a summer
lcit.chen, barbecue and sauna. Panoramic sea
and island views make for one of the m ost
idyllic spots in which to relax and
enjoy the smooth climate of the French
Riviera. Sotheby's International Realty
(+33 (0)4 93 38 91 96) is quoting 27.5
million for the privilege.

Once the summer residence of Papa Pacelli, Pope


Pius Xll, this 6.5 million seaside villa at
Sabaudia is just a few steps from the beach and
110km fiom R om e - or a 40--minute drive, according to Sotheby's International Realty (+39
06 69 38 00 76). Set in grounds of2.5 acres next
to the Cin:eo national park, the accommodation
spans 850sq m over two fioors. Meticulously designed with the finest finishes, it has six bedrooms
and five matble bathrooms, a large modem kitchen with a dining area overlooking an indoor pool.
three bright salons, staff quarters and a fabulous
panoramic seaside terrace with a swimming pool

Boasting breathtaking views of the sea, the Puerto de Soller


and the Tramuntana mountains, a newly built and ever-50contemporary 330sq m villa in Soller, Mallorca, costs 4.75
million through Knight Fr.ink (020 7861 1097).Arranged over
four storeys with a lift, it features a massive open-plan reception/
dining room/kitchen, four bedrooms and four bathrooms;
outside there is a swinuning pool, a choice ofsun terraces and
an easily maintained Japanese-5tyle garden. For the nautically
inclined, the villa is well placed for the local marina together
with a great selection of cafes and restaurants.

9.9 million could see you and yours n:siding in a modern beachfronting villa in Los Monteros, a short drive from the centre of
Mai:bella and 40 minutes from Malaga airport. For sale through Engel
&Volkers (+34 952 835 580), this 623sq m property was completed last
year and lies on one of the best beaches ofMaibella, near the famous
La Cabane beach club.Accessed via a Zen-5tyle entrance with water
elements, it has five bedroom suites (four ofwhich have private patios)
and separate staff accommodation. It features a bright, open dining area
with direct ac:cess to the partly covered terraces, garden, swimming pool
and Mediterranean Sea.

.CJ

.
I

'_,-;

/
PROPER1Y PROMOTION

File on
Forbes
The Private Office was
established in 2008 to
provide a confidential conduit
into the global world of
Savills. Claire Pilton speaks
with the man who knows
where the hot money flows
n acknowledged expert at
the top end of the residential
market, David Forbes is
celebrating his 30th year in
property and his fifth year as
head of the Private Office.
'The idea of setting up an internal referral
system within Savills may', as David puts it,
'have been a "drink in the bath" moment'; but
with more than 500 offices in 45 difierent
countries, Savills is the only property company
to offer this inherently bespoke service on a
truly global scale.
'It's not unusual for us to receive a call from
the private office of a Saudi family who wishes
to make residential investments in London,
rural investments in Europe and acquire a hotel
in a European capital. Similarly, we are able lo
offer professional wealth advisors a one-slop
solution. A private bank may, for example, ask
us to assist with a client who has inherited a
house in Sydney, a flat in Singapore and a pieda-terre in London. What should he keep? What
should he sell? We bring in our local offices to
give best-in-class advice on value, rentability,
improvements and management.
'Essentially we join up the dots,' says David,
who this year has already travelled to Turks &
Caicos, Italy, Spain, New York, Panama,
Brazil, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Sweden, (8tar,
Singapore, Bangkok, Hong Kong and Kuala

Lumpur to meet with existing and potential


clients. The Private Office is in the unique
position of being connected to the world's
most reputable banking organisations and
wealthiest individuals, as well as having access
to an elite portfolio of mouth-watering
properly around the world. Its monthly
'Global Showcase' newsle tter - which is
written in English, Arabic, simplified Chinese
and Russian - puts a selection of the best and
most varied products in front of over 500,000
qualified purchasers.
'Whether you're looking for a private island
in the Caribbean or a "student flat'' for your
children in Edinburgh, a ski chalet in the Alps
or an investment in Nine Elms, the Private
Office is here 2417; not only to advise on
purchasing but - given Savills' expertise
embracing over 300 services- on anypropertyrelated issue, from running the O lympic

Village to operating a nightclub, from


managing a sp orting estate to sorting out a
polluted trout stream. It is these "value adds"
that make our service indispensable at all levels.
We are a boutique service within Savills and
offer confidentiality and discretion to private
clients as well as their representatives.
If you've been through a nasty divorce,
experienced a liquidity event you don't want
broadcastcd, or gone bust, we arc equipped
to sell or acquire an asset with absolute tact
and discretion.'
Those who seek the impeccably connected
and confidential services of the Private Office
should contact David Forbes on 020 7824
9001or dforbcs@savills.com.
David Is phot09111phed In Cheshem Piece, e
candy & candy development, for sale
u:cluslvely throuqh Savllls et 45 mllllon

savills

PALAtS
MA[T[RllNCK
COT~ D'AZUR

~l!r o"
.L~

WALPOLE MAYFAIR,
Arlington Street, SW I
These lavish three bedroom apartments provide the ultimate
in sophisticated IMng, designed in a contemporary style with
a dassic twist. The apartments benefit from bespoke furniture,
the finest finishes and 24h concierge service. Walpole Mayfair
is an award winning and prestigious development by Oliver
Bums and was once the home of Britain's first Prime Minister;
Sir Robert Walpole.
Leasehold approximately 999 years remaining
Price: 11 ,500,000
+44(0)20 7225 6588
simon.barry@harrod sestates.com

Cl

www.walpolemayfair.com

RNS

PROPERTY PROMOTION

ODS ESTATES
comes to CHELSEA
This month sees Harrods Estates branching out and offering an unrivalled range
of services from its new office in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea.
Claire Pilton reports

n 1897 Harrods Estates set up shop - in-store, behind Fumishing>in order to provide a discreet and bespoke service to wealthy
individuals looking for a London home. 'Today we are the only
estate agency that forms pan ofa globally recognised luxury retail
brand; as such we are uniquely
equipped to offer our clients a
36<Kiegree service,' says Harrods Estates'
director, Shirley Humphrey.
As a vendor or purchaser, that means
unprecedented access to everything
from Harrods' innovative interiordesign service at The Studio to chartering a helicopter or private jet via
Harrods Aviation; from five-star property management and 24-hour hotelstyle concierge to individual moving-in
packs that offer de-stress treatments
'at home' courtesy ofHarrods' Urban
Retreat at Home, a Sloane hamper, an
in-store furniture offer and an exclusive
black-tier Harrods rewards card. To
mark the team's arrival in Chelsea, vendors and purchasers will receive
double the recently introduced 100,000 bonus Harrods Rewards points
to spend in store.
The new o.ffice, which is located within a ten-minute walk of the
store, occupies a prominent position at 58 Fulham Road, SW3.
Providing market-leading expertise in property sales, lettin~. acquisitions
and management, it extends the presence and services ofHarrods Estates'
existing Knightsbridge and Mayfair offices throughout Chelsea and South

Kensington. Initial instructions include a newly refurbished 2.85 million


three-bedroom town house with an integral garage, roof tenace and
gmien in a private gated development on Hortensia Road, SWl O; a fourbedroom apartment directly opposite theVictoria & Albert Museum in
Thurloe Place, SW7, which has a guide
price of.{,3.1 million; and a 2,700-aweek four-bedroom penthouse with
direct lift access and two large roof
terraces in Queen's Gate, SW7.
Harrods Estates is also able to introduce
prospective purchasers to exclusive newbuild opportunities that are off market;
conversely, it can also showcase developments and promote individual instructions in what rank among the most
famous shop windows in the world.
'Supported by the groups global
reputation, Harrods Estates has developed strong brand awareness in key
international markets - especially the
Middle East, Russia,Asia and Europe.
As a result, 89 per cent of our client base is now international. In addition
to specialist Russian and Middle Eastern desks, we can call upon the skills
of in-store interpreters, who speak a further 30 different languages:As
Shirley Humphrey points out: 'Our combination of corporate resources
and market knowledge ensure that each vendor and every prospective
purchaser receives bespoke solutions and a world-class service.'
Forfarther ieformaticn, nng +44 (0)20 7225 6506, visit hamxisestates.com or
contaa enquiries@Jtarrodsestates.com

WILLOWBROOK

WH ...E ...ODGE CLOSE

KENWOOD

LONDON 1\12

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DEVELOPMENT UPDATE
Claire Pilton looks at new schemes across the capital
Soho Square
Previously the home ofBloomsbury Publishing and 'birthplace' ofllirry Potter, 37
SOHO SQUARE,W1,has been redeveloped by the Stobart Group (ofEddie Stobart
lorry fleet fame). Built in the 17th century,
the Grade II-listed six-storey building now
provides fuur large and lavishly appointed
three-bedroom lat.eral. apartments and a twobedroom ground and lower-ground-floor
duplex. Prices start from 1.85 million fur

Hereford Road
the 1,646sq fr duplex and rise to 4.25
million for the 1,883sq fr first-floor apartment.The latt20er's dining and living rooms
both feature intricate 18th-century carved
panelling, architraves and original internal
window shutters as well as a Rococo plaster
ceiling in the living room. The apartments,
which all benefit from direct secure lifr access
and a terrace or balcony, are on the market
through EA Shaw (020 7420 3050).

Big on space and style, this contemporary home


on Herefurd Road, W2, conjures a Mediterranean feel in Notting Hill.Arranged over fuur
floors, it combines 10,706sq fr ofeight-bedroom
family accommodation with what agent Nick
Crnyson describes as 'all the accoutrements any
self-respecting sophisticate expects today'. An
entertainment complex on the lower-ground
floor incorporates cinema and games rooms, a
fossil""\Stone bar and 1,500-bottle wine cellar, a
state of the art gym,Bisaxza stone spa and a 14m
swimming pool. Built to a strong linear design,
the house was created by former Goldman Sachs
star and Danish Olympic badminton player
Pernille Jensen. On account of her son's talent
for tennis she is now looking to move to Roehampton and is marketing her home through
Crnyson (020 7221 1117) for 20 million.

With a waiting list of 80 applicants for a scheme ofsix apartments on Parkga.te Rnad, SW11,
Banda Property~ conversion of the original BATTERSEA BAKERY looks set to sell out
prior to completion this summer. The searrh, acq_uisition and development company~ latest
project will be pricedfiom 1000 per sq.ftfor the two-, three- andfour-bedroom fiats, which
rangefiom 1,450sqft to 3,600sqft and eachfeature 500sqft-plus ofroof terraas. On ne.atby
Radstock Street, Banda Property (020 7937 9600) has started work on eight lateral new-build apartments, which are duefor completion at the end ef 2014 ... Vlkiuh this space.

Chelsea Creek
For those who enjoy 'messing about on the river', CHELSEA CREEK, SW6, will provide residents
with the opportunity to berth their boats on private pontoons within this 7.5-acre mixed-use
development. It is named after the historic tributary that first opened in 1828 for barges to navigate
from Kensington to the wharlS on Chelsea$ riverside. Chelsea Creek will create a 'European feel of
waterside living just moments from the King's Road,' says Nick Hutching;, managing director of
St George Central London (020 7610 9693). Due for completion in 2016, th.e scheme's recently
released 25""\Storey tower will feature a four-bedroom duplex penthouse and three four-bedroom
Chelsea Suites on the 21st, 22nd and 23rd Boors; prices for the 44 one,- t\W-and three-bedroom
apartmen\3 below range from 869,950 to circa 3 million.

Canaletto
Hailed as one of the capital's up and coming
residential hotspots, City Road Basin is not
only convenient for the City; it also adjoins
the trendy creative districts ofHaxton,
Qerkenwell and Shored.itch as well as
Islington and the emerging high-tech cluster
around Old Street. Located on City Road,
EC1, CANALETTO will comprise a

30-storey tower with 190 apartments, a


restaurant, health club, swimming pool, private
cinema and a residents' club on the 24th floor.
Ben van Berke!, ofDutch architects UNStudio, says: 'Our design required a distinctly
cont.e.xtual response, one which acknowledges
the need for an explicitly residential identity...
the tower's multifaceted fa~e groups

sets of three to five adjacent fioors together


to create a series of'neighbourhoods in
the sky'.With first completions scheduled for
2015, prices stan from 390,000 through
Knight Frank (020 7718 5202) and Jones Lang
Lasalle (020 7087 5550), which together
officially launch Canaletto to the British
market in September.

Belsize Park

Bloomsbury Gardens
'Bloomsbury has seen very little residential development in recent years and a very limited second-hand
market for buyei:s; when people move here, they
tend not to move awaf. So says Julia Reynolds of
Crest Nicholson (020 3667 5119), which, prior to
launching BWOMSBURY GARDENS,WC1, this
mo.nth, 'has already received strong interest.The appeal
of city-centre living combined with parks is proving
popular with City professionals, up-sizers and downsiz.ers: ln addition to the developments communal
garden, many of the 44 apartments will have terraces
or balconies overlooking St George's Gardens.
The flats have one to four bedrooms and range from
480sq fi to 1,578sq ft. Prices start from 550,000.

At 42-45 BELSIZE PARK, NW3, Galliard


Homes (020 7620 1500) is devcloping ten
residences behind the retained ~e of two
handsome stucco-fronted villas. Originally
built in the 1850s to an Italianate style by
local entrepreneur Charles James Palmer, the
properties are located within the prestigious
Belsiz.e Park Conservation Area. Swiss Cottage
underground and the local shops on Finchley
Road are a shon walk away, while Primrose

Hill and Hampstead are within three quarters


ofa mile.With three ofthe eight two- and
three-bedroom apartments and duplexes sold
off-plan for 1.5 million, prices now start
from 1.65 million.The scheme's two 10
million houses are due for completion next
year,sopurcliasershave the chanceto~ecify

the allocation of space, which can provide


four to six bedrooms, three reception rooms, a
study, media room and swimming pool

avant- a de
SIIOREDITCII El

EI EGANT
CONTEMPORARY LIVING IN THE HEART OF SHOREDITCH

90% NOW SOLD

NEW RELEASE NOW AVAILABLE - Prices from 395,ooo*


LUXURY HOTEL STYLE RECEPTION W ITH 24HR CONCIERGE SUPERB SPECIFICATION INCLUDING COMFORT COOLING
PRIVATE GYMNASIUM PRIVATE ROOF TERRACE GREAT AMENITIES TO INCLUDE SAINSBURY'$ LOCAL & NAAMYAA RESTAURANT

Exquisite and well placed one, two and three bedroom apartments & penthouses set in the heart of Shoredltch, London's coolest cultural and vibrant hotspot
Set just two minutes from Shoreditch High Street station, making the whole of London accessible. Just a short walk from Bishopsgate and The City of London.

Shoredlt.ch High Street 2mins~rpool Street IOmins ~st End 1 lmi~

Canary Wharf I Smins

e 00]

Sales & Marketing Suite open daily.

0203 538 3296

avantgardetower:com

~ &"""rated'""""' of ~To~.,..

-Prices CO<Teet at time of goirc to press.

apptt<imotJ! and CO<rtes)' a( tll.p.'*.

Sell rg ~

---

020 7250 4950 I)


1 ~ BIE

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117;\
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telfordhomes

In the lastlO J1Z1'8,

tM &rkel8fl Group
ha.a created '36 acru
ofpublic apace.

Including a forthcoming

3 acres here at River11ght.


Our Vi.rim~ Your Putu:re.

JUNE DIARY
Cundy's cornerstone, a preview in the park and a premier portfolio

VICTORIA'S SECRET
London's Victoria neighbow:hood seems set for an exciting regeneration.

Last year saw the opening ofthe first new London theatre in 30 years, the St
James, and work has started on the Victoria Circle project, facing the station.
Now the stage is set for the rebirth of one of the area's most impressive
landmark buil~: Grosvenor Gardens House, designed in the 1860s by
Thomas Cundy II, will be transformed into around 40 fi:eehold luxury
apartments, with spa, concierge and cinema room - among other ficilities.
Mark Holyoake, the founder of property investor Oakvest, says: 'We are genuinely excited to be bringing a furmerly incredible building back to life for
others to enjoy. Renovating this historic beauty will be a terrific challenge.'
Fer mere details, ring 020 7811 3855, or visit UJWoakvest.co.uk

Some efthe world's leading dfA1en in arts, antiques and aramia are
gathering inJunefor the Art Antiques London fair in Kensington
Gatr1ens. It'.s a great opportunity to pick up something beautifulfor
your home or rental property,from sculpture and paintings to clocks,
furniture and textiles. !fyou11 like t.o attend an exclusive~
tickets are on sale for 'Party in the Park' on 11 June. Held in aid ef
Great Ormond Street Hospital Children's Charity, it includes cocktails and canape.s, a priZ auction, live performances and the chance to
see this yem1 exhibits before anyone else.Tickets are priced 75;
call 020 7239 3004 or email artantiqueslondon@Iosh.org.

Prime ef life
London's Mayfur has been home to several
familiar names, from the Mahiki club to The Ritz,
from PG Wodehouse to Jimi H endrix. O ne name
that has been gradually building a reputation for
itself is Prime Portfolio, which resides on Charles
Street and knows the boulevards and mewses of
the capital's most exclusive postcodes better than
any taxi driver. It is currently celebrating ten years
as one of London's leading real-estate consultancies, working closely with clients to negotiate the
best prices - whether selling, letting or buying a
residen tial property - and ensuring the maximum
return on investment. Over the past decade, Prime Portfolio has
created an enviable network of property contacts, and developed a
portfolio of more than 200 top-range properties that it lets and
manages for private clients. To give an example of the calibre of
property in which it deals, a sensational lateral South Kensington
apartment was secured for 10 million for a private client, while a
beautifully refurbished pied- a- terre on Knightsbridge's finest
garden square is for sale for 1.45 million.

For farther informaticm, call Rllpert Hoffen cm 020 74()!) 0209, email
rupert@primeporifolio.com, or visit www.primeporifolio.com

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THE STEAKHOL SF
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A WORLD OF
GOURMET CUISINE

RESTAURANTS

+44 (O) 20 730 1234 www.harrods.com

Editor
Jeremy Wayne
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manager
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Senior sales executives
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Acting promotions and
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1\ I rR
.,,TAUt4Nf GUIO(
lOtl

RESTAURANT
GUIDE 2013
elcome to the Tatler Restaurant Guide
2013, in association with Champagne
Laurent-Perrier and Taste of London.
They say you can take the temperature of a city
by its restaurants. So we say, triple-dip recession or
not, London right now is smoking hot. Openings,
closings (with apologies to Lou Reed) - take
heed, because blink and you won't hear about
the newest launch, stop to think and you won't
clock the latest flop.
And it's not just London, because this year
we've taken flight. To Scotland, to East Anglia,
to wildest, Welshest Wales (over there - what
tales!) and down again to the deepest South
West. To bring you the very best of the rest,
more than 40 places where the most loyal local
yokel or gastro jet-setter will find food that's
getting better and better.
Outrageous, alarming, courageous, charming
(with apologies to Randy Newman, this time) ,
but who would open a steakhouse 'for girls', or
sell hotdogs with champagne - but do you hear
us complain? Or be brave enough, after baring it
all for years, to bring starched linen back again?
And who in their right mind serves soup with
mutant squid? Well, somebody just did.
Mad ramen, Latvian caviar, English (and
Brazilian) wine, all having their time. Rude food,
dude food, food in the raw and - dare we say it? some food you may choose to ignore. Goodness,
there's even the rehabilitation of coleslaw. It's all
here, and more ... and more.

Jeremy Wayne
RESTAURANT

EDITOR

.. .. . ....
~

Illustration by Bob Wilson/


Phosphor Art

CONTENTS
4
5
7
8

WE
HOTLIST
WON'T LET YOU DOWN
HOTELS & HAUTE CUISINE
10 MODERN EURO
13 SMOKE & MIRRORS
14 BRITISH
15 BISTROS & BRASSERIES
16 STEAK
18 ITALIAN
27 CHICKEN 'N' BARBECUE
24 FISH
28 PUBS
31 TEA&CAKE
32 FRENCH
33 CAFES
34 SHARING PLATES
36 NEW ASIAN
37 NIGHTLIFE
38 WORLD FOOD
40 ASIAN
43 VIEWS
44 INDIAN
46 BURGERS
47 SPANISH
48 THEAMERICAS
50 BEST OF BRITAIN
56 LOCATION INDEX
58 ALPHABETICAL INDEX
60 AMUSE-BOUCHES

KEY
Prices are for a threecourse a la carte
lunch or dinner (per head), including a halfbottle of house wine. Many places also
offer a set-price lunch or dinner, which
will. of course, reduce your final bill.

f = under25
f f =25- 50
f ff = 50- 75
ffff, = 75- 100
ffff,f = 100+

Champagne
LaurcntPcrricr

T his rcstaur-dm will be


p.irticipatingatTasteof

served here

London 2013, 20-23 June,

ceu~0

Regent's Park, NWl

'taste

Cop)T"ight 2013 TAlliR PUBLISHING COMPANYLTD. Vogue House. I Hanover Square. London VVlS lJU(td: 020 7499 9080). 1n conjlrlction with Champagne Laurent-Perrier (laurent-perrier.fr/uk} and Taste of London
{tastefestivals.corrVlondon). Printed in the UK by Wyndeham Roche Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduct ion in whole or in part without written penrnssK.10 is strictly prohibited. Not to be sold separately from the June 2013 issue ofTatler.
Tatter has tried to ensure that all information is correct at the time of going to press. but the publishers cannot accept responsibility for a11y errors and omissions.

CECCONl'S
Sa Burlington Gardens, WlS 3EP (cecconis.co.uk; 020 7434 1500)
T hey say you can't be all things co all people, yet this Mayfair spot
does a pretty decenc job. First and foremost it's a jolly good restaurant,
open all day for well-executed northern Italian dishes - salads,
risottos, a classic veal M ilanese, as well as great cicchecti at the bar.
Bur Cecconi's, which starred life in 1978 , is more than a swanky
diner. It's a social hub, seriously glam, and one of the few places where
Kare Moss doesn't mind being seen in public these days. 0000

CHEZ BRUCE
2 Bellevue Road, SW17 7EG
(chezbruce.co.uk; 020 8672 0114)
There are cwo good reasons
for driving south of rhe river.
One is co go co France and rhe
ocher is co go co C hez Bruce,
the next best thing to France.
Bruce Poole's restaurant is as
joyous as ever, d eceptively
simple, unthreateningly smart
and wholly unpretentious, with
Modern French dishes done
absolutely perfectly. Lase year,
head sommelier Katie Exton
picked up our Best Wine List
Award. Lucky the
guy or gal who
has this place on
their doorstep.

Cestimpec!

0000

'? )
The Berkeley, Wilton Place,
SWlX 7RL (the-berkeley.co.uk;
020 7107 8844)
The style of Pierre Koffmann's
upscale restaurant ac che
Berkeley more closely
mirrors the current French
bistronomie movement of
accessible haute cuisine than
che great Parisian brasseries of
Montparnasse. His cooking,
just as compelling but
purposely less elaborate than
in his Tante C laire days, is
earthy yet refin ed. If anyone
has found a smarter way of
stuffing a pig's troccer, for
instance, lee him reveal himself
- and nobody cooks chicer
chips. All in an elegant space,
with first-class service from

DOWNTOWN
MAYFAIR BY
CIPRIANI' g '
15 New Burlington Place, WlS
2HX (downtownmayfair.com;
020 3056 1001)
We don't che name buc we
simply adore everything else
about this place, for which che
term 'under che radar' could
have been invented. It hit town
in November 20 11 with no
trumpets, not even one cornetco.
Just a beau tiful room and a host
ofwaicers in white jackets under
G iancarlo, the ineffably gracious
m aicre d '. T he zabaglione cake
is ambrosial and che restaurant
is already a favou rite with both
Crown Prince Pavlas of G reece
and Joan Collins. 00000

34 Grosvenor Square,
WlK 2HD {34-restaurant.co.uk;
020 3350 3434)
A sister to Score's - which is
just around the corner - but
less wired, 34 is one of che
most civilised spots we know.
Food alone, of course, does
not a restaurant make, and
although you can d ine
incredibly well here - shrimp
cocktail, ' lobster mac', beef
on the parrilla - i e's the d etail
that counts. At 34 you'll find
parquet flo ors, a sump tuous
bar, modern British art including works by C hris
Orr and Nicholas Byrne and gorgeous table lamps
giving out the softest,
warmest light. 0000

18 Bruton Place, WlJ 6LY (bellamys


restaurant.co.uk; 020 7491 2727)
In a city where inelegance is
rife, thank heavens fo r Bellamy's.
Ic's exclusive in che best sense,
self- regulating, nicely mannered
and properly proper. You can
imagine the heirs ofDowncon
popping in for a place of
wh itebait and a roast guinea
fowl before heading off for
some afternoon engagemen t,
and - in real life - chis is said
to be the only restaurant
where the Queen has ever
d ined. But please don't think
of it as old-fashioned - it's
as young at heart as you
and me, p resided over in
great style by the debonair
Gavin Rankin.

HAKKA

;;;; )
17 Bruton Street, WlJ 6QB

SOCIAL
EATING HOUSE

20 Mount Street, WlK 2HE (scotts-restaurant.com; 020 7495 7309}


Ronnie Wood, Kelly Hoppen and che Michael Caines are all
regulars ac Scott's, che Mayfair fish house thac is che ne plus ulcra
of smart dining in London. Some fish house! Beaucifully dressed
cables are arranged around a vase marble bar where che day's catch is
alluringly displayed. Mwah- mwahing guescs cable-hop, but the fish
stay perfectly still. There are still reports of the odd sulky waiter, but
mostly they are models of good behaviour. The fish - obviously - is
delicious and spanking fresh. The only ching chac smells ac Scocc's is
the waft of Shalimar and the reassuring scent of money. 00000

(hakkasan.com; 020 7907 1888}


Ie's been a bumpy year for che
Hakkasan Group, with new
openings coming under che
scruciny of che cricks. Bue chis
place is a phenomenon. A long,
dark entryway leads to a bank
of hostesses. Answer cheir
quescions correctly and you'll
be whisked co your cable. Come
up short and you'll be parked
at che bar - noc chac chis is any
hardship, as the scene fairly
thrums. Best things to eac? The
double-boiled free-range chicken
(needs 12 hours' nocice) or the
spicy prawn wich lily bulb
and almond.

23-25 Davies Street, WlK 3DE


(crestaurant.co.uk; 020 7399 0500}
Russian oligarchs and H ollywood moguls love
Cipriani (or 'C London', as we must now call it),
which might explain che difficulty, even in a recession,
of geccing a cable. Despice eyewacering prices, chis is scill che besc
address for che perfect Bellini and divine pasca, followed by oucrageously
good zabaglione cake. If power corrupts, jusc corrupt us.

53- 54 Brook's Mews, WIK 4EG


(lpmlondon.co.uk; 020 7495 4774)
Noisy and fabu lous, this joint
is jumping. Modelled on che
original in N ice, the London
outpost has a character all its
own. The crowd is chic and
che food divine. Carpaccio of
scallops, chinly sliced ocropus
in lemon oil, roast baby
chicken, leg ofLozere lamb served in modest (but not
ungenerous) portions, so once
a size six, always a size six. La
Pecice Maison (mono: 'Tous
celebres ici') has legions
of fans, and we are definicely
among them. 0000

SCOTT'S

Ll=l PETITE MAISON

POLLEN STREET
SOCIAL

NOBU BERKELEY

8- 10 Pollen Street, WIS lNQ


(pollenst reetsocial.com;
020 7290 7600}
A highly social rescaurant:
from day one, Pollen Screec
has been a hangouc for che
beauciful and canned, who
pile in for Jason Atherton's
picture-pretty dishes and
devilish drinks, and the
ice-hoc scene here shows
no sign of thawing. Jason's
two new rescaurancs,
Lictle Social, a French
bistro ac 5 Pollen Street,
and che Social acing House
in Soho, are opening
as we go ro press. 0000

STREET ~
15 Berkeley Street, WlJ 8DY (nobu
restaurants.com; 020 7290 9222}
Nobu BS sees more afi:erparcies in
a week chan mosc people see
shrimp ishiyaki in a lifecime.
Sure, the from-desk hoscesses
can be snippy (very Pretty
Woman, chat kind of attitude)
and T hursday ch rough Saturday,
when che lounge and bar stay
open till 2am, is a bunfight, buc
chere's no denying che food is
heavenly and the vibe terrific.
Afcer roo many nights fighcing
(metaphorically) ac the bar,
our favourite spot is now the
hibachi cable. 00000

58- 59 Poland Street, WIF 7NR


(socialeatinghouse.com)
Our prediccion for the hotcest
new restaurant of20 13 (due
to open as we go to press) ,
chis is che new one from Jason
Atherron. Jase seems to have
caught the zeitgeist: there'll be
dishes like duck, smoked ham
and egg and chips on the
menu, wich London-honey
sponge and goat's curd ice
cream to follow - London
honey itself being very much
in right now. In the upstairs
bar, called the Blind Pig,
expecc cockcails like che
Thermonuclear Daiquiri and
Scrub a Dub Dub. 000

"HE

GALLE~

9 Conduit Street, WlS


2XG (sketch.uk.com;
020 7659 4500)
Conceived by
Turner Prizew inner Marcin
Creed, the yearold, relaunched Gallery
at Sketch is a crazy
kaleidoscope of colour, form
and fabric. The menus are
d evised by the nonconformist
genius Pierre Gagnaire; Lily
Allen and Taylor Swift love it
and insouciant scaff members
could be models. Totally of
the momenr.

---------

BIBENDUM $
Michelin House, 81 Fulham
Road, SW3 6RD (bibendum.co.uk;
020 7581 5817)
Sir Terence Conran's Brompcon
Cross restaurant was practically
where the great British food
revolution all started. The
beautiful Michelin building is
the stage set for a ground-floor
courtyard cafe, oyster bar and
crustacea stall and, upstairs, a
resraurant that's grown-up,
timeless and very welcoming.
Matthew Harris's Modern
French cooking doesn't miss
a beat and there is the sense
that while Bibendum
stands, nothing in
life can go very far

wrong. 0000

55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB (the


delaunay.com; 020 7499 8558)
Chris Corbin and Jeremy
King's take on a Mitteleuropa
all-day cafe has been packed
from day one, but it's worth
rem embering that it also takes
walk-ins, and the success rate
for scoring a table ac short, or
even no, notice is high.
Waiters are drilled ro deliver
but do so with easy charm wiener schnitzel, choucroute
aI'alsacienne, calorie-bomb
coupes, all lip-smackingly
delicious. The adjoining
Counter, where you can
eat in or take away, does the
best almond croissant in
.,
London.

LE CAPRICE t @ J
Arlington House, Arlington Street, SWlA lRJ
(le-caprice.co.uk; 020 7629 2239)
If Le Cap rice has been eclipsed co any extent by some of London's
newer openings, that's all to the good - the snagging of a reservatio n
is slightly less of a m iracle than ic once was. Bue chis place is as
wonderful as ever. Come for che spiciest Bloody Mary mixed in
less than cwo minutes, brillianc bread and butter, snap-co-ic waiters
who anticipate your every wish - and a greac Saturday brunch,
now one of the most enjoyable services of the week. 0000

THE WOLSELEY
55 Jermyn Street,
SWlY 6LX (wiltons.co.uk;
020 7629 9955)
Tory grandees, princes in
exile and captains of industry
pile inco W ilcons each
weekday at lpm, filling its
boochs and tables according co
a pecking order as immucable
as ic is impenetrable. Ic's a
place chat's ineffably grand
but also joyously unstuffy,
where the British menu
changes not on the whim of
any chefbuc merely nods co
the seasons. If you have co ask
for anything during your
visit (beyond stating your
food and wine order),
something is very much
amiss.

160 Piccadilly, WlJ 9EB (the


wolseley.com; 020 7499 6996)
The scracospheric fame of the
Wolseley- you wi ll hear ic
spoken about from Kyoco co
Kandahar - was o nly achieved
through hard work. It's not a
perfect rescauranc, with its cables
on the fringe and ics sometimes
challenging acoustics, buc the
answer co every question here
is 'yes'. The vaguely central
European food is consistently
excellent and, despite the odd
gormless waicer, scaff work co
ensure a good cime is had by
all. Breakfast, lunch, tea
and supper - is there
anywhere you'd
racher be?

0000

THE IVY
1- 5 West Street, WC2H 9NQ (the-ivy.co.uk; 020 7836 4751)
T he Ivy looks and behaves like a private club - think 21 in its
heyday - buc is in face che mosc democracic rescaurant chere is.
Contrary co the popular conception, chere are no celebricies here,
precisely because everybody is one, or is created like one by che
ever-attencive staff. The Modern British menu is full
of scrumptio us things, all delivered with know-how
and style, and there can't be better chips in London .
Hurray fo r the Ivy, ever young, ever fun. 0000

A I LI

6-10 Bruton Street, WlJ 6PU


(squarerestaurant.com;
020 7495 7100)
Come here for lunch on a grey
winter's d ay and you'll feel an
inner glow. Or for a languorous
supper on a summer evening you won't quickly forget it.
Classic dishes are reworked, but
none too much, and shortcuts
are never raken. Everything
you ear, down to the
last shelled pea,
squeaks with
freshness and the
wines are tremendous.

HELENE
DARROZE AT THE
CONNAUGHT' ~'
Carlos Place, WlK 2AL (theconnaught.co.uk; 020 7107 8880)
With two Michelin stars to
her name here and anorher in
Paris, Darroze creates playful
yet disciplined food: Scottish
lobster poached in Espelerre
burrer, perhaps, or Welsh
venison with Lampong
pepper. The panelled room
is subtly sexy, and service
can be a little scricc and
scary, which is how the
\ French often like it at
chis level. 00000

53 Park Lane, WlK lQA (alainducasse-dorchester.com; 020 7629 8866)


This is one of only two three-Michelin-starred restaurants in
London. From the posse of staff waiting to greet you as you march
down the Promenad e of the D orchester to the moment you leave,
your coat held aloft for you and a little box of mignardises at the
ready so you can rake chem ho me to enjoy for romorrow's breakfast,
Ducasse reigns supreme. The food is grand and glo rio us; service,
franchement, just leaves the rest standing. Say what you like, we
still have a lot to learn from the French.

THE RITZ
RESTAURANT ~
150 Piccadilly, WlJ 9BR
(theritzlondon.com; 020 7300 2345)
We have no hesitation in saying char
this is rhe mosr beautiful restaurant
room in London. Ir's dripping with
LouisXVI decoration, and nowhere
are the swags swaggier or chandeliers
twinklier. And, because this is the
Ritz, frock-coated staff arrend co
your every whim before you even
know you've whimmed ir. John
Willjams's cooking is grand but
noc precencious, so you could eac
here every day and not get bored.
d as for that magical terrace in
summer - be still, my bearing
heart! Every good Englishman
should ear at the Ritz ac least
once in a lifetime. 00000

WILLIAMS AT
BURY

'tute

37 Conduit Street, WlS 2YF (alyn


williams.co.uk; 020 7078 9579)
The genial Alyn Williams
has now headed his own
restaurant for two years.
If the food here is
incredibly pretty - foie gras
semifreddo with cherries
and rosebay willowherb,
perhaps - it is pretty with a
point. Williams gets the
fin e-dining experience and,
while ir's true co say this is quite
formal, there is a welcome
absence of awkward hush. The
tasting menu is probably the
way to go.

MARCUS WAREING
AT THE BERKELEY

' U ' 'lute

Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place,


SWlX 7RL (marcus-wareing.com;
020 7235 1200)
If you know you've arrived and
don't need to shout about it,
Wareing's two-Michelin-scarred
restaurant is for you. I r's
discreet, d emure and even a
licde clubby. Cooking in such
an establishment is always going
to be complex, but in the past
year some dishes seem co have
been simplified - and all to che
good. There are amuses and
freebies aplenty and no one ever
left here hungry. 00000

43 Upper Brook Street, WlK ?QR


(le-gavroche.co.uk; 020 7408 0881)
If Tran o r North Korea should
decide to drop rhe bomb (God
forbid), this is where you would
want ro be. In the lower-groundfloor d ining room, maitre d '
Emmanuel might raise an
eyebrow, then everything would
carry on as normal. The souffle
Suissesse would rise, the chive
burrer sauce would anoint the
'T-bone' of turbot and head
sommelier David Galerri
would fill your glass with a few
more bubbles.

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SEVEN PARK PLACE ~ 1

7-8 Park Place, SWlA lLS (stjames


hotelandclub.com; 020 7316 1615)
Billy Drabble opened Seven Park
Place at the St James's H otel and C lub
nearly fo ur years ago. In a setting of
latter-day French flamboyance wild floral wallpapers, sumptuo us
canary-yellow leather banquettes you tuck into wonderful scallops,
langoustines, beef and Lune Valley
lamb, followed by exquisite puddings
like banana parfa it, or cheese from
Paxton & W hi tfield. C hoose the
back room over the slightly
draughty fro nt room next to the
bar - and speaking of the bar, allow
time for a drink beforehand because
it's an absolute gem. 0000

THE LEDBURY
127 Ledbury Road, Wll 2AQ (the
led bury.com; 020 7792 2370}
H eartthrob chef Brett G raham
plays his ingredients like a
musical instrument, extracting
maximum flavour and making
them sing. H e loves fish, game
and shellfish but doesn't disdain
humbler produce- often, being
a good Australian, giving a nod
to Asia. T he Ledbury is also
roman tic - perfect for even
the most hard-bitten Notting
H illbilly who wanrs to snuggle
up by candlelight with someone
special and a great ChassagneMontrachec. 0000
27a Hays Mews, WU 5NY
(greenhouserestaurant.co.uk;
020 7499 3331}
In an age of vulgarity, low
taste and d irty dining, the
G reenhouse is one of the
most civilised places we know.
C ool, calm, elegant and
refined, tucked away at t he
end of a Mayfair garden, it has
an almost zen- like tranquilli ty.
Arnaud Bignon's cooking
is French at its centre, but
im bued with all rhe sunshine
of the Mediterranean. Staff
are of the 'ask and ye shall
be given' school and, chis
being a Marlon Abela-owned
restaurant, the wine list
almost needs a crane co
lift ic. It is a thing of
magnificence co read, let
alone to sample.

Brown's Hotel, Albemarle


Street, WlS 4BP (thealbemarle
restaurant.com; 020 7518 4004}
We wanted this restaurant in the
lovely Brown's Hore! to be very
good indeed, and for ages ir just
wasn't. Well, fast forward and
finall y it is. Yes, it's taken Mark
H ix a while, but now it's a
delight, British to che core and
w ith a corker of a menu: potted
Morecambe Bay shri m ps,
Dorset snails, Bannockburn
beef on the bone. No co rner of
Britain is left unrepresented.
T he trolley is a joy, with its daily
changing special, and service,
once upon a time a little rickety,
is now very polished.

RESTAURANT
GORDON RAMSAY
68 Royal Hospital Road, SW3
4HP (gordonramsay.com;
020 7352 4441)
Gord o n's flagship restaurant
reopened earl ier th is year after
a mini facelift. But the changes
weren't just cosmetic. Longtime
head chef C lare Smyth has
become chefpatron, and there
is a new energy about the place.
T he room is small yet bright,
C lare's cooking has never stood
still and the service has a
remarkable lightness of touch .
Just righ t for a special birthday,
but get booking- current wait
ti m e for a table is six weeks
and upwards. 00000

LECTURE ROOM
& LIBRARY AT
SKETCH ~

9 Conduit Street, WlS 2XG


(sketch.uk.com; 020 7659 4500}
M ir6 meets M issoni m eets
art nouveau on acid in the
fabulous and fu nky first-floor
Lecture Room at Sketch.
H ere you sit in chairs so
comforcable, and are waited
upo n by a young staff so
im maculately polished and
well mannered (service
cho reographed like a military
tattoo), that you have to pinch
yourself to ask if yo u really
are in .. . London. As fo r the
food, it's Pierre Gagnaire in
full creative force: original,
masterful, each dish a kind of
planet around which smaller
satell ites orbit. And the jewelencrusted loos on the landing
are almost as famous as rhe
restaurant itself. 00000

94 Church Road, SW13 ODQ (sonnyskitchen.co.uk; 020 8748 0393)

Once a fixture in this guide, Sonny's has been in a slight state of flux the
past couple of years. N ow, Phil Howard - he of rhe Square and also
a collaborator in Kitchen W8 - is on board and the food has ramped
up a few notches. You might follow linguine alle vongole with duck a
l'orange: upscale comforc food which, really, we can never get enough
of. Ir's child-friendly, and prices have been held in check despite the
upgrades - the set lunch at only 18.50, for instance, is a steal.

KITCHEN

wa

11-13 Abingdon Road, W8 6AH


(kitchenw8.com; 020 7937 0120)

13-14 Cork Street, WlS 3NS (aurelia


london.co.uk; 020 74091370)

This is rhe restaurant that


Kensington long needed
and now has - a
collaboration between
two real pros, Phil
H oward of the Square
in Mayfair and Rebecca
Mascarenhas of the
fam ous Sonny's in
Barnes. Kirchen W8 is slick
without being chichi, rhe food
is absolutely scrumptious Michelin-star level but not
fan cy o r trying too hard - and
the crowd are local and fri endly.
Nor braying, thank goodness,
but nor exactly redneck
either. Just right. 000

T his super-sm art modern Euro


from Arjun Waney
(Zuma, Roka) never
quire caught fire.
You might have
really rared its cool
'Aurelian Way'
menu with dishes from
Rome to Valencia, as
we did, bur the restaurant's
upside-down layout, with
all the action downstairs,
mili tated against iL Now
the ground floo r has been
redesigned as an all-day tapas
bar, with downstairs fo r more
formal dining - undoubtedly
a clever move.

~)

438 King's Road, SWlO OLJ {medlarrestaurant.co.uk; 020 73491900)

Plaudits co ntinue to pour in for this World's End modern Brit, whose
chef Joe Mercer Nairne scooped Tatfd s Young C hef Award in 20 12.
W ith its neutral decor, informed but low-key service and imaginative
but precise cooking, Medlar ticks all the boxes. Bring your
boyfri end, your bestie or t he whole fam ily - everyo ne
seems to feel at hom e. And, despite the success, in the
past year prices do nor appear to have risen.

LE CAFE ANGLA IS
Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere
Road, SEl 8XX (skylonrestaurant.co.uk; 020 7654 7800)

8 Porchester Gardens, W2 4DB


(lecafeanglais.co.uk; 020 72211415)

There are murmurs of dissent


- a stroppy waitress here, a
forgotten wine order there but you are going to love
Le Cafe Anglais regardless.
You'll drool over the grandly
proporcioned deco room,
th e grown- up booths and,
of course, Rowley Leigh's
no-corners-cur, proud English
cooking. And what about the
whole Bayswarer/No tting Hilt
scene - Richard C urtis, Simon
Schama and friends
popping up at the
~\WI~
next table? Lends
tone, no? 000
~

-:

D espite its very 'Londo n'


setting, with views across the
Thames to Westm inster and
the City, this upbeat eatery has
an American professional ism
and energy to it, and runs on
oiled wheels. Ear in rhe grill
with its brunchy menu, o r, if
you want to be a little quieter,
rhe more sedate restaurant,
where rhubarb trifle with a
glass of LaurentPerrier rose would
make the perfect
end to a special
dinner.

\""

LAUNCESTON PLACE'

W'

la Launceston Place, W8 5RL


(launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk; 020 7937 6912)

D ear old LP has had its ups and downs recently. But T im Allen has
been in the kitchen fo r well over a year now, and already has a M ichelin
star under his belt. T he manager seems to know most of the guests
by name and the 'modern townhouse' deco ration is holding
up, but even without any of that, this restaurant's charm
alone would make it stand our from the crowd. 0000

TOM AIKENS

RESTAURANT ~
43 Elystan Street, SW3 3NT
(tomaikens.co.uk; 020 7584 2003)

For our money, Tom Aikens has


always been one of Londo n's
most compelling chefs - an
iconoclast who thinks outside
rhe box. His C helsea flagship
restaurant, rem odelled last year,
is now all earch tones and great
lighting, while the food is less
formal and - how does one put
this? - up itself T he seven-course
tasting menu, which might
include crab, scallo p, turbot and
lamb, is a good way to discover
Tom's exciting cooking, though
it's not o bligatory. 0000

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CINNAMON
CANDY
DldD LO\IDON

Cinnamon Candy is an event catering


and party planning company brought
to you by D&D London.

QUO Vf:lDIS
26-29 Dean Street, WlD 3LL (quovadissoho.co.uk; 020 7437 9585)

T he wonderful Jeremy Lee has seeded inco Q uo Vadis like a hand


in a glove. (Sofc hand, cashmere glove.) His menu is fu ll of che
mosc delicious creacs - che firsc gull's eggs of che season, skace or
sweetbreads with black butter and capers, lemon posset with rhubarb
- served by the brighcest band of boys and g irls in one of London's
loveliesc d ining rooms. Because there were never eno ugh hours in the
day co enjoy QV, ic is now doing breakfas c - plus you can buy ics
deleccable whice and sourdo ugh loaves co go. 0000

; COQ D'ARGENT ~

12 St George Street, WlS 2FB


(wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk;
020 7758 9160)

Jusc off H anover Square, upscale


biscro W ild H o ney has been
Conde Nast's unofficial HQ
since it opened fi ve years ago.
A recent remodelling by
designer du jour Martin
Brud nizki is an unqualified
success: che room has been
opened up, with leather in
gorgeous canary-yellow and
orange and light screaming in
through the large
windows. Sexy,

properly grown-up
~"
and po ised co
become a big Mayfair
player.

,JJ

I
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I

1 Poultry, EC2R 8EJ (coqdargent.


co.uk; 020 7395 5000)

T his very classy restaurant and


bar on the cop floor of No. I
Poultry feels as fresh now as the
d ay it opened 15 years ago.
The cooking is clean and
, refi ned, French classics all
) beautifully presented in a
, modern scyle. And chen, of
course, there's chat roof
cerrace, with its views over
the Square Mile - a
power kick, should you
need one. Eat, drink and
be merry up here, fo r
tomorrow we have co
go back to work.
Well, this afternoon,
actually. 0000

THE GILBERT SCOTT


St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, NWl 2AR
(thegilbertscott.co.uk; 020 7278 3888)

The fo rmer Coffee Room of the M id land Grand H otel is the setting
for the G ilbert Scott, appropriately overseen by no rth of England-born
chef Marcus Wareing. If the restaurant occasionally slips - slighcly limp
Welsh rarebit, a listless D over sole-you forgive it because, take it from
us, this is a mo ther of a room , a painstaki ngly resto red demilune in
cicrine yellow, with polished limestone pillars, everything gilded up to
the eyeballs. We can also report that service, once robotic, seems co have
improved. Bring che kids fo r Sunday lunch - bags of fu n. 000

Cinnamon Candy creates exceptional events


and delivers the perfect combination of
superb ingredients, beautiful design and faultless
service. Whether it is an intimate, informal
party for 12 or a dinner for 400, a corporate
event or a reception for royal and VIP guests
at home or away, we can cater for you.
We pride ourselves on providing a bespoke
service and excellent food, whatever the location.

350 King's Road, London SW3 5UU


020 7559 1209

cinnamoncandy.co.uk

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--'

Awarded lhree }fichelin-slars. Alai n Ducasse al The Dord1esler offers


an opporlunily lo enjoy contemporary French cuisine in an almosphere of unrivalled elegance.

+44 (0)20 762.9 8866 o1ainducasseresenalions@flwdorcltesler.co111


lltedorcltesler.com

Dorchester Collect'ion
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70 Charlotte Street, WIT 4QQ (bubbledogs.co.uk; 020 7637 7770)


T h ere's a wizard ac work behind che curtain at che end of the room
and chis one is no sham. Meet James Knappert, ex-Noma, Per Se and che
Ledbury, and halfche brains behind hoc-dog joinc Bubbledogs- he's now
cooking his weird and wonderful casting menu for 19 lucky punters
ac a time ac the bar wrapped around his kitchen. All dishes
come wich James's commentary and, though not all will
wow you, few will leave you unmoved.
DtNNIE~ Bl'tf
. H15$1T'OW BllUMIENTHAl!..

AMETSA
WITH ARZAK
INSTRUCTION

Halkin Hotel, Halkin Street, SWlX


7DJ (ametsa.co.uk; 020 73331234}
If you are a student of
m olecular gastronomy or a
good old-fashio ned minimalist
(ch e room cakes monochrome
co new levels of colourlessn ess)
chen chis is for you. Amecsa wich
Arzak Instruction - che Arzak
being Juan Mari Arzak, o ne
of Spain's master chefs, and
his daugh ter Elena, Amecsa
m eaning dream in Basque - is a
story of scorpion-fish tempura,
colour-changing squid and
never-ending sleigh t of h and.
What we really loved, though,
was che wine - from
Catalonia, Ribera del
Duero and Galicia.

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Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 66 Knightsbridge, SWlX 7LA


(dinnerbyheston.com; 020 7201 3833}
We raved abour Dinner from day one, and ic has o nly goc better. In a
beautiful room overlooking H yde Park, ye olde English~
enu
does cricks and somersaulcs. W ho knew 'powdered ' duck
breast (a l 7ch-cencury dish) could caste so good? Or chat
spic-roast pineapple (181 O) would be so moreish ? As
for che service, ic glides, so ic seems, on air.

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BO LONDON
4 Mill Street, WlS 2AZ
(bolondonrestaurant.com;
020 7493 3886)
We chink chef Alvin Leung,
whose two-Michelin-scar Hong
Kong rescauranc has d ivided
critics, is che real deal.Try his
glorious xiaolongbao 'X-creme'
dumpling or his Sichuan lobster
if you're in any doubc. 'I wane co
push your com fo rt rone co che
edge,' he says, though his now
infamous Sex on che Beach, a
(used) 'condom' on a bed of
'sand', is an aberration. To see an
otherwise brilliant mind ac
work, seep
right in.

00000

Town Hall Hotel, Patriot


Square, E2 9NF (viajante.co.uk;
020 7871 0461)
Pormguese prodigy N uno
M endes's casting menu might
include raror clams with
chicken crumbs, o r brill wich
duck tongue and froze n m ilk.
Bur before you cry, 'The king is
in che altogether,' go ahead and
caste ic. l e may jusc blow you
away. Beautiful wines coo, with
standouts from northern Italy
and Portugal. The Viajance-lice
Corner Room is on che first
fl oor; both rescaurancs in
the boutique Town Hall
Hotel in Bechnal Green.

00000

39 Whitfield Street, WIT 2SF


(dabbous.co.uk; 020 73231544)
Ollie Dabbous, winner of
Tatler's Best Kitch en Award
2012, shows no sign of slowing
down. H e uses meadowsweet
and hazelnurs co bring perfect
bur demure English asparagus
co life, while a coddled egg with
woodland mushrooms mrns
ambrosial wh en fused wich
smoked buccer. C hocolate
ganache wich basil moss and
sheep's milk ice cream is a
sylvan fantasy, served on black
slate. In the bar,
meanwhile, Oskar
Kinberg mixes Old
Fashio neds in heavy
,....,_...--#-. -lt:ad-crystal
mm biers, w ich
ice cubes the size of
shoeboxes.

HE DONE
301-303 Chiswick High Road, W4 4HH
(hedonerestaurant.com; 020 8747 0377)
Located at che wrong end of Chiswick High Road, chis is so worth
che crek. Mikael Jonsson's extraordinary cooking is based on che
best ingredien ts, prepared to let ch e natural fl avours sing. His
55-d ay aged beef w ich smoked mash pocaco is already a classic.
T he wine list is ungreedily marked-up and che boys and girls
w ho serve you are almost as delicious as che food . 0000

26 St John Street, EClM 4AY


(stjohnrestaurant.com; 020 3301 8069)
Fergus H enderson's former Georgian smokehouse may nor look like
a great restaurant - wood Aoors, ben twood chairs - but its greatness
steals up on you. W ho else could put d ishes like Kippers and M ash,
Woodcock and G reens on the menu without elaboration and get away
with it? His classic roast bone m arrow with parsley remains a bestseller.
W hen ir com es co nose to tail, this is still rhe real d eal.

HIX~

THE DINING
~)

15 Beeston Place, SWlW OJW


(thegoring.com; 020 7396 9000)
T hank heavens for the Goring.
It's sane and civilised and has
one of the best collectio ns of
claret o f an y hotel or restaurant
in London. The food is utterly
divine - omelette Arnold
Bennett, perhaps, or beef
from the trolley. All as it
should be. Bur d on't get the
impression it's stuffy. T hey
built a replica o f P ippa's
Mustique favourite, Basil's
Bar, here after the M iddletons
stayed for that wedding, and
elfin owner Jeremy G oring
has been known co dance
on the rabies.

66-70 Brewer
Street, WlF 9UP
(hixsoho.co.uk;
020 7292 3518)
The best (and the friendliest) of
Mark Hix's London locatio ns.
The food is consistently good
- Hastings cod with herring
roe, Bannockburn rib on the
bone - but you could just
come in mid- morning fo r
coffee and stay rill after
lunch nursing it, and no
o ne would bat an eyelid.
Meanw hile in the
excellent Mark's Bar in
the basement, barman Lee
Potter Cavanagh does
weird things with Aaming
star anise. 000

Floral Hall, Stoney Street,


SEl lTL (roast-restaurant.com;
0845 034 7300)
M agically located in a listed
building in Borough Marker,
Roast just keeps getting better.
Ir's busy all day-with the finest
breakfast south of the river and chef M arcus Verberne
takes advantage of
the market's stalls
to cook simple
and simply
delicious dishes. The
resra urant also
uses a full-time foraging
firm co p rovide arcane but still British - herbs
and vegetables.

PATERNOSTER
CHOP HOUSE ~
Warwick Court, EC4M 7DX
(paternosterchophouse.co.uk;
020 7029 9400)
In rhe shadow of Sr Paul's, this
is a wonderful evocation of
a D ickensian-era chop house,
Hollywood-style. Ir's bright
and white-tiled , with Victorian
hospital lamps, and all the meat
is bought on the bone and
butchered on-sire. Bruce
W ilson's menu is big and hearty
- a Barnsley chop, perhaps,
followed by Bakewell rart with
crab-apple jelly and vanilla ice
cream - and the wine list, which
had always lagged a little, is
now much improved. 000

SAVOY GRILLU.te
28 Upper Grosvenor Street, WIK 7EH
(corrigansmayfair.com; 020 7499 9943)
H andsome but em inencly comfo rtable, grand but not
overbearing, Richard Corrigan's M ayfair restaurant has earned its
stripes painstakingly over time. We have no hesitation in saying that
it is now one of the finest in London, with a menu that's a cornucopia
of the best of British, always chiming with the seasons. If you have
guests fro m out of town, bring them to Corrigan's to show them how
we do things here- or, at least, how an Irishman does them.

The Savoy, Strand, WC2R OEU (gordonramsay.com; 020 7592 1600)


T he grande dame of the Strand still k nows how to pull out all the
stops, and when the G rill is good, it is very, very goodglorious Dover sole or beef Wellington perhaps, d elivered
w ith panache - but there are occasional blips (an
overfamiliar com mis waiter, for instance). Seating has a
pecking order- the big peckers getting the forecourt window
tables. Lesser mortals make do, signing with a mere sigh
a bill that m ight m ake them wince elsewhere. 00000

GREEN'S
RESTAURANT &
OYSTER BAR ~
36 Duke Street, SWlY 6DF
(greens.org.uk; 020 7930 4S66)
Simo n Parker Bowles is the
consummate restaurateur, and
G reen's - vaguely cl ubby, faintly
colonial - has always been a
deligh t. T he food is un-muckedabour-wirh (smoked haddock
Parker Bowles can't be beat) and
wines are elegant yet reasonably
priced. If you are neither a stickin-the-mud nor impressed with
newness for its own sake, and
you've never been, this may be the
restaurant you've been waiting fo r
witho ut even knowing. 0000

GALVIN BISTROT

BISTROT BRUNO
LOU BET

66 Baker Street, WlU 7DJ (galvin


restaurants.com; 020 7935 4007)
Chris and Jeff Galvin's rake on
the upscale Parisian bistro has
spawned plenty of copycats few as good as the original.
Many of the d ishes here, like
the lasagne of crab and the
escargocs ala bourguignonne,
have been on che menu since
day one, bu t chat's rhe way che
customers like it. The wine list is
thoughtfully chosen
and, if you know

The Zetter, 86-88 Clerkenwell


Road, EClM 5RJ (bistrotbruno
loubet.com; 020 7324 4455)
Honest, bustling, intimate,
bright - light comes flooding
in from every angle, even
o n the greyesc days. As you
might have guessed, we're
great fans of chis bistro familial
in the Zeccer hotel, where
Bruno Loubec cooks, wirh
conviction, moderately
complex bu t inherently 'rig ht'
d ishes, like old-fashioned
quenelles in langouscine
sauce, snails with meatballs
and delicious game, all done
with a remarkable lightness
of touch. 000

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what you're doi.ng,


you can d rmk
like a p rince on
a credit-crunch
budget.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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The Westbury Hotel, 41 Conduit Street,


WlS 2YF (brasseriechavot.com; 020 7078 9577)
Eric C havoc is back in London afcer three years
away. Yay! His new spot at the Westbury is grander, more
glam-glam than your average brasserie, with its Petit Trianon
chandeliers, oh-so-comfortable chairs and exquisite glass and silvetware.
Come here for crab mayon naise, choucrouce, daube de boeuf, lamb
with couscous and a Mom Blanc with a srrange rwisc.

CASSIS BISTRO
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232- 236 Brompton Road,


SW3 2BB {cassisbistro.co.uk;
020 75811101)
A smart Knighrsbridge bistro
with bags of style, from
restaurant royal Marlo n Abela.
We love rhe welcome here, the
sense of abundance, the mad
clusrers of Provenc;:al herbs.
O h , and rhe original arc works by Matisse and Julian ~
Opie. T he food, which
sometimes lacked oomph in
the early days, is absolmely
on crack now and if Cassis is
nor on your regular circuit,
well , it jolly well
should be.

0000

:HA BRO I
9 Knightsbridge Green, SWlX 7QL
(chabrot.co.uk; 020 7225 2238)
C hab roc sirs in an
inconspicuous alley in the
shadow of One Hyde Park,
David to its Goliath. Tc may
be small and independent but
ir's a total winner. Thierry
Laborde (ex-Alain Ducasse)
does wonderful charcucerie,
pasra with black truffle
and memorable Landaise
chicken, while Yann
Chevris (ex-Nobu)
runs rhe pine-sized
rooms with
avuncular care
and concern.

314 Earls Court Road, SW5


9BQ (garnier-restaurant-london.
co.uk; 020 7370 4536)
Did ier Garnier has been patron
of Le Colombier o n C helsea
Square fo r the past 15 years and
brorher Eric co-owned Racine,
on the Brampton Road, for five.
The jury is out on che red and
whi te decoration - a bit 'blood
and bandages' - but otherwise
their new joinr venrure, righr
by Coleherne Cou rt, where
Diana once braved rhe paps, is
terrific. Supper mighr be endive
and Roquefort salad fo llowed
by perfectly cooked lamb
cutlers, and service comes with
a smile - a boon co chis part
of London, which always
seems so fu ll of good
resraurancs yer ofren fails
co deliver.

BALTHAZAR
4-6 Russell Street,
WC2B 5HZ {balthazarlondon.
com; 020 3301 1155)
' Hello and welcome co
Balthazar,' cry three greeters in
unison as we step through the
sacred portal of London's mosr
eagerly awaired new resrauranc
in a d ecade. The ceilings are
20 feet high, the room is pure
Moncparnasse and the acoustics
- despire rhe mulricude of
people - are bliss. The vase
bar, boccies all the way co the
sky, has co be rhe eighth
wonder of the world. The
food, however -Americanised
French brasserie fare - has
some way to go bur,
chis being a Keith
McNally resrauranc,
surely ir will gee
there. 0000

COLBERT
50-52 Sloane Square, SWlW 8AX
(colbertchelsea.com; 020 7730 2804)
T he story of Earl Cadogan's disastrous lunch at the former Oriel,
lo ngtime Sloane HQ, is well documented - and it's how Colbert
was born. T he menu at chis resrau ranr in che King/Co rbin Wolseley
stable is big bur not too big, the rooms are attractive wichouc being
drop-dead gorgeous and the food - retro bistro - is spot-on. Six
monrhs afrer opening, Colbert seems to be full virtually round the
clock, and the bar scene is crazy. What more is there co add? 000

REC("'\Dh.A

SC

Mandeville Hotel, Mandeville


Place, WlU 2BE (reform
socialgrill.co.uk; 020 7224 1624)
Scare with a drink at the bar
and you might get no further,
because the recently revamped
Mandeville mixes a mean
Dirty Martini, then another,
and another. Bur conrinue you
muse, ro rhe dark and clublike Reform restaurant, where
they do a marvellous Dexter
rose-veal chop, Buccleuch
estate Scottish sirloin and a
spiffing Bakewell pudding.
We loved the very Famous Five
menu exhortation: 'Please
don't be afraid to ask for
extra custard.'

FLAT IRON
17 Beak Street, WlF 9RW
(flatironsteak.co.uk; no phone)
Flat Iron is the Ryanair of
steakhouses - no phone
reservations, no frills, no
effink nuffink. They even
charge for chips. AND sauce.
The sauce of it! But, here's the
thing - this fl at-iron steak is
downright delicious, sliced
like an Italian tagliata and
seasoned with nothing more
'
than a few sprinkles of FREE
16a New Street, EC2M 4TR (newstreetgrill.co.uk; 020 3503 0785)
sea sale. It goes without
Builc by the Ease India Company and now incricacely restored, the
O ld Bengal Warehouse is home to the City's poshest steakhouse.
saying that Flat I ron is
Everything here is rhe very best: a generous plate of London-cure
uncomfortable, wirh no leg
room ro speak of and
r-~.;..._- smoked salmon, pingingly fresh lobster cocktail or Black Angus
nor a hope of scowing
beef done on che Jasper grill. The wine list is a homage ro
Bordeaux (che besc vinrages, back ro 1959), Burgundy
any bags. Bur, if the
price is low enough,
and the New World and - get this - they pour Krug
Grande Cuvee, from magnums, by the glass.
people will come. 0

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THE GRILL
ATTHE

,..

MONTCALM ~
34--40 Great Cumberland Place,
WlH 7TW (themontcalm.co.uk;
020 7958 3216)
We've always liked this
rescauranr, surely one of
London's most secret addresses
and perfect for a tryst - you
can even slip in or out t hrough
the back door ala French farce
should you need ro. Kick off
with something sophisticated
from the bar's bespoke cocktail
men u, then d isappear into the
G rill, perhaps for a rump of
Romney Marsh lamb or ro
share a rib of Angus beef for
rwo. The banoffee cheesecake
mousse is baby food for
grown-ups. 0000

MASH

n Brewer Street, WlF 9ZN


(mashsteak.dk; 020 7734 2608)

Two floors deep, wirh


sumpruous red-leather booths,
open mear lockers and a
dramatic wall of wine, MASH
is vase. You need Google Maps
just to find the bar. Owned
by a Danish consorcium, ir
does very fine Danish beef,
dry-aged for up to 70 days,
along wich Uruguayan ,
American and Australian cuts.
For pudding, there's liquorice
ice cream, and the magnificent
wine list, suong on cabs and
pinots, is overseen by a team
of 10 sommeliers. 00000

STK.
336-337 Strand, WC2R lHA (togrp.com; 020 7395 3444)

Alreadywell established Stateside wirh branches in New York, LA, Miami and Las Vegas, che
U!Cs firsr 'female-friendly' sreak joint has a srrapline char runs 'Nor Your Daddy's Steakhouse'.
STK offers steaks for girls, though nor necessarily girlie steaks - British and USDA prime curs in
all sizes, very nearly done. Meanwhile, in che bar and lounge, che fun concinues wirh great music
and rather saucy cocktails like the Not Your Daddy's Manhattan, made with bourbon, vermouth
and berby Licor 43. All very ladylike - make mine a double, bargirl. 0000

~ )

45 Park Lane, WlK lPN (45park


lane.com; 020 7317 6552)

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You need very deep pockets for


Wolfgang Puck's pucking
expensive jewel of a restaurant
in rhe chic 45 Park Lane, but
ir delivers in spades. The beef
- UK, USDA, Australian and
Chilean Wagyu - is the
business and side dishes such
as tempura onion rings and
creamed spinach wich organic
fri ed egg are consummately
executed. CUT also does one
of che best breakfasts in town
and service, naturally, runs on
oiled wheels.

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THE RIB ROOM ~


Jumeirah Carlton Tower,
Cadogan Place, SWlX 9PY (the
ribroom.co.uk; 020 7858 7250)

In 20 I I cbe Rib Room


celebrated irs 50th birthday
wirb a facelift by Marrin
Brudnizki and emerged
looking younger, fresher, bur
essentially che same (the secret
of all good cosmetic surgery).
The food is still as fab as ever
- great fish and shellfish ,
Buccleuch estate Aberdeen
Angus - and the 450-bin wine
lisr (presented o n an iPad) is
grand. The only problem
is your fellow diners
- a touch loud and not
quire rhe demure
Tory grandees of
yesteryear. 00000

~AWKSMOOR

10 Basinghall Street, EC2V 5BQ


(thehawksmoor.com; 020 7397 8120)

This impressive basement refeccory is a huge


subterranean canteen for Ciry boys (and the odd City
girl). T here were reerhing problems bur now everything
is rickety-boo. The famous Hawksmoor breakfast is
served umil I Oam and, given 48-hours' notice, rhey can
prepare a seven-course 'cour of a cow' for you.

SOPHIE'S STEAKHOUSE
311- 313 Fulham Road, SWlO 9QH
(sophiessteakhouse.co.uk; 020 7352 0088)

Ir's been coo long since our lase visit co Sophie's, bur we are happy
co report chat we still can'c chink of a beccer place in
Chelsea for a whopping dire de boeuf, sirloin
on rhe bone or a hamburger made from prime
filler Black Angus. M artinis here are a massive
I Ooz and che bar dispenses classics, shores and
shooters like they're going our of fashion. 000

1 Pont Street, SWlX 9EJ


(thepalm.com; 020 7201 0710)

When rhe Palm opened four


years ago, a decenr steakhouse
was still a novelry in London,
a city used co something called
an 'Aberdeen Sceak House'
bur ignoram of anything
resembling a man-size piece of
meac. (The war, rationing and
old-fashioned guile all played
their parr.) Where rhe Palm
led, many ochers have
followed , bur chis is still rhe
place for prime bo ne-in ribeye
or double-cur lamb-rib chops.
Service is smooth and
occasionally quirky, and rhe
Palm , compared co many ofics
bigger, newer rivals, is actually
rather charming.

AMARANTO ~
Four Seasons Hotel, Hamilton
Place, WlJ 7DR (fourseasons.
com; 020 7499 0888)
Amaranco is really chree
d iscincc areas ac che revamped
Fou r Seasons. In che rescauranc
p roper, chef Davide does
quire complex assemblies, like
rabbic chree ways. Terribly
good ic is coo. Bue you do
jusc as well, or even bener,
at the bar, with a spritz and
plate of bruschena. Or in the
zi ngy lounge wich a caprese
salad. You can also go for
afcernoon tea, wich an Italian
twist - cheese focaccia
and cream-filled bigne
d i San G iuseppe
pascries. 0000

1
11 Park Walk, SWlO OAJ (atoz
restaurants.com; 020 7352 3449)
The Fulham Road crac has
come of age wich che revival
of 11 Park Walk. Run con
brio by che d ishy Roberto
(questio n del giorno: how does
anyone gee such indecently
black hair?), chis restaurant is
urbane, yec also racher cosy,
wich a good seleccion of
bubbles ac the bar. As
for che menu, stick with
the Sardinian specialicies
and you won't go
wrong - fregola or
malloreddus pasta,
and anything
with bottarga, are
great.

184 Bermondsey Street, SEl 3TQ (zuccalondon.com; 020 7378 6809)


In the shadow of the Shard , Z ucca is an all-white, all-b right Italian
with some of the most authentic regional d ishes you will find in
London. The (unoffi cial) signature dish of fried zucca (pumpkin)
seems to put everyone in a good mood, and owner Sam Harris has a
wond erful relationship wich pasta and fis h. W ines are choughcfully
chosen, wich norchern whites and Piedmontese and Tuscan reds
given their due, and mark-ups are noc harsh.

L'ANIMA
1 Snowden Street, EC2A 2DQ

(lanima.co.uk; 020 7422 7000)


CAnima is a curious Square
M ile hybrid - gucsy southern
Icalian and Sicilian food (raw
tuna with indulgent Mottra
caviar, maybe, followed by
chicken Calab rese with
n'duja) sec against a beauciful
Peter Brook A Midsummer
Night's Dream backdrop.
T he bar is perfect
if you don't want
the full M on teverdi,
buc just a Negroni,
some pizzeHe
and olives.

0000

79 Highgate Road, NW5 lTL


(pizzaeast.com; 020 3310 2000)
Pizza East may look rustic, but
with ics industrial-chic tables,
hanging salumi and deli-bar,
it's as inversely sophisticated as
a pizza hue can get. Toppings
mighc include guanciale,
puzzone, or - our favourice veal meacballs. T he mac 'n'
cheese, salads and chicken
livers with polenta get our
voce too. Often
mobbed in the
evenings and ac
weekends. Also
in Shoredicch and
Portobello.

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FRANCO MANCA
76 Northcote Road,
SWll 6QL (francomanca.com;
020 7924 3110)
Still che best pizza in town.
Still locaced in annoyingly
uncentral areas. Franco Manca
takes the freshesc mozzarella
(from a herd of Somerset
buffalo) and the most intensely
flavoured romatoes from
Salerno, then bakes chem in a
wood-burning brick oven on
slow-rising sourdough. Owner
Giuseppe Mascoli is a real food
hero, singlehandedly maki ng
up for years of pizza abuse in
this country. Other branches
in C hiswick, Brixton and
Westfield Stracford. 0

~
12 Archer Street, WlD 7BB (boccadilupo.com; 020 7734 2223)
'A small and humble craHoria ac hean' is how chis charming Soho
restaurant describes itself. And ic is - in the sense thac it grasps the
regionality ofltaly. N othing is generic, and dishes are small and
beautiful, ricotta corcell ini with wild garlic and walnucs from Puglia,
say, or sea bream baked in sale from Liguria (each wich ics region of
origin lisced). If, like us, you go soppy for Tcalian wines, this is che
place to drink chem. Under che same ownersh ip, Gelupo (across
che screec) is an oucstanding coffee bar, gelateria and deli.

MORENO AT<*-=.:..'
THE BAGLIONI
60 Hyde Park Gate, SW7 5BB
(baglionihotels.com;
020 7368 5900)
Moreno Cedroni is a star in
Icaly, w here his new-wave fish
restaurants have excited critics.
Now he's in charge of che
restaurant ac the Baglioni,
where we loved the pretty
plates of swordfish carpaccio
and veal shank decorated with
ed ible fl owers, as well as che
sweec Apulian waicer w ho
accompanied each dish wich
'Please, you try!' However,
po rtions were skimpy and the
vast, open-p lan room can feel
a bit windswept. 00000

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THE OVAL
ATTHE
WELLESLEY''iiJ '
11 Knightsbridge, SWlX 7LY
(thewellesley.co.uk;
020 7235 3535)
You've heard of the perfect
square but in the new
Wellesley Hoed (where Pizza
o n the Park once stood) you'll
find the perfect Oval. With its
gorgeous cream leather chairs
and inlaid marble floors, this
restaurant is very discreet
and very romantic, and the
food - the fres hest burraca
or a classic Dover sole - really
shines. The wine list sparkles
and the staff
are adorable.

00000

NOVIKOV ITALIAN
35 Willow Place,
SWlP lJH (ristorantegustoso.
com; 020 7834 5778)
Lovely Guscoso - from
experienced restaurateur
C laudio Pulze - is the kind of
below-the-radar Italian that
trumps some of che bigger
names and offers a better
lunch for your lucre. Among
the dishes we enjoyed here
were deep-fried squid, vitello
tonnato and lamb shank with
srewed red onions. Roast
potatoes were a little anaemic,
but a silky semifreddo
soon made us
forget and
forgive.

50a Berkeley Street, WlJ 8HA


(novikovrestaurant.co.uk;
020 7399 4330)
With its fake old masters and
displays of fru it and veg
cumbling out of the kitchen,
there's something a bit Disney
about Novikov Italian. Bur
chis big, Russian-owned venue
is a curious mix: ac table one,
oligarchs m ight be doing a
deal; at table two, a yummy
mummy is caking the children
out for lunch. Food is fresh
and abundant, with retro
northern Italian dishes like
tagliolini cacio e pepe or
seabass with
salmoriglio our to
impress. 0000

IL BARETTO
43 Blandford Street, WlU 7HF
(ilbaretto.co.uk; 020 7486 7340)
We've raved abouc Tl Barecco
ever since ic opened four years
ago - even if basements aren't
always our thing. Near-perfect
pizzas, black ink tagliatelle,
the juiciest little spacchcock
chicken, blood o range
cheesecake... a menu
with som ething
for everyone, plus
a fun Marylebone
crowd. Service has
been slipping oflate,
though - come on,
Barecco, pull up the
old calzini. 000

~
20 Savile Row, WlS 3PR
(sartoria-restaurant.co.uk;
020 7534 7000)
Someone once said chat luxury
is space, and at Sartoria there's
acres of the stuff between the
large, comfortable cables
(perfect for a spying debrief).
T he food - risotto wich
cardivo, perhaps, followed by
roast leg oflamb - jusc seems
to be geccing beccer and beccer
under chef Lukas Pfaff.
W ine d rinkers couldn't
be in safer hands
than those of
sommelier
Michael Simms.

39 Albemarle
Street, WlS 4JQ
(babborestaurant.co.uk;
020 3205 1099)

Bella cucina, bella figura, hello


tutto. At Babbo, where talented
chef Carlo Scotto has just
picked up the bacon , they
understand it's not just about
the creamiest burrata, the
silkiest tagliolini , the pinkest
veal - but che whole piccure.
Nowhere is the leather softer,
the chandeliers twinklier,
or the photos on the wall more
C ineci cta. W ine glasses chin k,
conversation sparkles.
Enchanting.

ZAFFERANO
15 Lowndes Street, SWlX 9EY
(atozrestaurants.com;
020 7235 5800)
W hen Zafferano first opened
18 years ago, ic broke the
mould for London's Italian
restaurants: ic was intimate,
cosy, friendly and chilled,
bur served dazzling regional
food. Chef Andy Needham
keeps up che great work,
and Enzo Cassini runs the
room with consummate
skill. If money is no
object, come during
truffle season and
have Enzo shave
(t ruffles) until you
say stop. 0000

IL RISTORANTE AT THE BULGARI ~


171 Knightsbridge, SW71DW (bulgarihotels.com; 020 71511010)
Take the grand circular staircase from the bar down through acres
of granite co Tl Ristorance. H ere Scots-Italian chef Robbie Pepin,
who earned his stripes wich Alain Ducasse in Monaco, cooks
trofie pasta wich pesto (finished at che table), risorto with saffron
and a fantastic veal piccata, with a sauce oflemon, capers and
p ine nuts. Divino!The big black room may seem soulless, but
diners such as Nancy Dell'Olio add colour. 00000

LOCANDA LOCATELLI ~
8 Seymour Street, WlH 7JZ (locandalocatelli.com; 020 7935 9088)

We're fans of G iorgio Locacelli, as is anyone w ho has caughc him on


BBC2's Italy Unpacked. We'd heard chere'd been wobbles ac his
Michelin-scarred London rescauranc, so we wenc co check. Well , nor
so. From che food co che wine lisc, co David Coll ins's cimeless room,
co che wall-co-wall proper celebs, everyth ing is prime. (A scarcer of
congue wich salsa verde is heavenly, as is risotco or kidneys.) But the
nominal cable rime of cwo hours could be a bummer. 00000

TH E

6*'

A PERO

taste

Intercontinental London Park


Lane, 1 Hamilton Place, WlJ 7QY
(theorandall.com; 020 7318 8747)

You couldn'c meec a nicer guy


chan Theo Randall and chis
cranslates co his cooking.
Everyching is bona fide, from
the minescrone primavera to
che wood-roasced curboc wich
Swiss chard - superb scuff,
although we'd axe che
non-Tcalian wines
(which feel like
flash cownie
interlopers at
a village dance)
from che long
lisc.

2 Harrington Road, SW7


3ER (aperorestaurantandbar.
com; 020 75914410)

We love chis scylish new Icalian


in the basemenc of the
Ampersand H ore!. C hef C hris
Golding does cerri fic small
places ofburraca, polenca wich
mushrooms, gnocchi wich
chard and quail wich cum in,
while ex-Nobu pascry chefJ i
Shun Shin cums ouc divine
puddings and viennoiserie.
Apero is usually packed
wich well-dressed
French and I talians
- the icing on
che cake, you
mighc say. 000

BANCA
30 North Audley Street, WlK 6ZF
(bancarestaurant.com; 020 7647 2525)

The smart Italian from the people behind Zuma. Waiters move
like bailee dancers becween che boochs, bringing plates of scallop
carpaccio with Amalfi lemon and ravioli wich sage and veal jus.
A gargantuan Tuscan fiorencina sceak from che wh ite-hoc grill,
dressed wich noth ing more than a drop of virgin olive o il, could
be a m etaphor for Banca itself- precise and eleganc, lean yet
lux, oh-so cascy and wich a splash ofltalian pizzazz. 00000

Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, W6 9HA


(rivercafe.co.uk; 020 7386 4200)

The River Cafe is awkward co get to for most people, but chis
doesn't make ic any easier co secure a cable. The food just sings
oflcaly (mainly the northern and central regions), of rhe good
life. To ear a small game bird roasced in che wood-burning oven
o n a wincer's evening here, or che firsc wild salmo n on an early
spring d ay, is co underscand che pleasures of che cable, and why
you can'c really put a price on ic. 00000

DEL MERCATO
169 Church Road, SW13 9HR
(no website; 020 8748 0434)

Park Street, SEl 9AD


(vinopolis.co.uk; 020 7407 3651)

Andrea Riva's Barnes Italian is


as good as ic ever was, which is
to say scupendous. The mosc
laidback of rescauraceurs,
Mr Riva doesn'c really hold
with menus. H e simply cells
you whac's cooking and then
brings ic. Dishes are mainly
Lombardian and cheese and
cream obvio usly play cheir
pa re, bur we can also say
we've never had Scoccish
langouscines quire like chose
we have eacen here. As fo r
the wine lisc, there
isn'c one as such - and
yet there isn't a beccer
'lisc' in London.
Just ask.

Pare of che Vinopolis empire,


Del Mercaco is a village
wichin a village - an espresso
bar, bakery, crac and
ristorante (open evenings
o nly) alongside Borough
Markee. The space is brighc
and contemporary, and
che cooking - locs of dishes
from souchern Icaly, racher
chan che more predictable
no rch - is spot-on, despice
che solecism of only serving
pizza ac lunch. T he
predominantly Italian scaff
are a joy, and we almosc
ran off wich our
smiling, giggling
waicress. 000

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27 Wellington Street, WC2E 7DB (orsorestaurant.co.uk; 020 7240 5269)

Still working, darling, and still a luvvie's delighc. This basem ent
venue doesn'c feel remocely subcerranean. I c does proper Icalian
traccoria food, served as ic always has been on oversized ruscic
places by well-rehearsed scaff who know how to say cheir Ii nes and
disappear. A Campari soda gees mixed quicker chan ic cakes co cype
this sentence and, like all grown- up escablish ments, Orso scays
open lace. Along wich siscer rescaurant Joe Allen, ic was sold lase
year - so fi ngers crossed noching changes.

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J~"l;/e lJ/e1Ut
75 per person for three courses,
including a glass of
Ritz Cuvee Champagne

Table service

Once again proving it reigns almighty when it comes to trad ition,


The Ritz Restaurant presents Les Arts de la Table the forgotten, masterful art of tableside service
Shimmering chandeliers, veined white marble
and mirror panelled walls - there really
is nowhere like The Ritz Restaurant. An
enduring favourite with aristocracy, A-listers
and royalty, this restaurant is unquestionably
a leader in the style stakes, but perhaps its
most distinctive quality is its unwavering
dedication to tradition. Executive chef John
Williams MBE - who expertly heads up a
team of polished professionals - abides by
the philosophy that every single guest should
experience The Ritz hallmark of excellence ,
as well as an ongoing nod to its English
heritage. Across most of the world, Les Arts
de la Table - presenting whole dishes to
guests before preparing and serving tableside
- has faded away, but the Ritz Restaurant is
one of the remaining few in London keeping
the tradition alive. From 1 April , the restaurant
introduced the mouthwatering sample menu
which you see before you . And at only 75
a head, we challenge you to resist. (Inside
tip - look out for the chefs favourite Bresse
Chicken Demi-Deuil en Vessie.)

Dres sed Crab Roll


Avocado and Charentais Melon
Tea Smoked Salmon
Bergamot Lemon and Radish
Quail
Wild Garlic an d Cauliflow er

Bresse Ch icken Demi-Deuil


en Vessie
Sea Bass en Croute
Sauce Mireille
Leg of Baby Lamb
Hot Pot Potatoes

Amedei Choc olate Ganache


Sea Salt and Tonka
Rhubarb with Wh ite Chocolate
Mousse and
Caramelised Pistach io
Creme Frai che
Compressed Apple w ith
Granny Smith Sorbet

To make a reservation, please call


020 7300 2370. For further details,
visit theritzrestaurant.com
Available Sunda y to Thursday for lunch and dinner. Les Arts de la Table menu must be requested at the time of booking, and is subject to a minimum of two participants.

<! -'")0 >)

TASTE OJF
THE TOWN

It's time to celebrate a decade of world-class cuisine with London's hottest restaurants, internationally
acclaimed chefs and Champagne Laurent-Perrier masterclasses, all in the open air
The world's most exciting restaurant festival is
once again set to deliver a delicious snapshot
of the London dining scene this June. And if
you thought Taste of London couldn't get any
better, just wait to see what they have in store
for you. The alfresco feast held in Regent's Park
has gone from strength to strength and this year
marks its 10th anniversary. To celebrate, Taste
is pulling out all the stops. Here's a little taster,
if you will, of some of the treats you could be
indulging in from 20 to 23 June.
The finest chefs, restaurants and foodies from
across the globe have joined forces to mark
Taste's reunion and collaboration-themed year,
celebrating established and new talents and
international chef pairings. The Electrolux Taste
Theatre will play host to a wealth of famous chefs,
including Raymond Blanc, Theo Randall and

Rene Redzepi, as they take to the stage to carry


out culinary demonstrations, as well as spilling
the beans on some of their most precious kitchen
secrets. One of the most significant collaborations
of the weekend will undoubtedly be three
generations of the Roux family- Albert, Michel
and his daughter Emily - sharing their expertise.
Michelin-starred restaurants such as
Le Gavroche, Maze and Tamarind will be
cooking up a storm alongside newcomers
including Sushisamba and LIMA, plus a
special Taste of Thailand area will feature six
restaurants headed up by Thai chefs working
with their London counterparts.
Laurent-Perrier will be hosting 'Grape to
Glass' masterclasses on all four days of
Taste, educating guests on the crafting of the
world's finest champagne, from the initial grape-

picking to the first sip, with accompanying food


pairings. As a Tai/er reader, you' ll be able to
buy tickets at an exclusive discounted price by
booking in advance, securing you a place in the
class, as well as a whole host of other perks.
Ticket holders will enjoy a Laurent-Perrier
masterclass, fast-track entry to the show,
the inspirational Taste 2013 Recipe Book
and 20 worth of Crowns - Taste's very own
dining currency - to spend at the festival's
restaurants and with exhibitors. Plus you'll
enjoy unlimited access to the V IP lounge,
where you can kick back and relax with a
glass of Laurent-Perrier champagne while
listening to exclusive talks.
Like previous years, tickets are likely to sell
out quickly, so make sure you sign up fast.
Here's to 1O years of Taste!

EXCLUSIVE
LAURENTPERRIER
MASTERCLASS
READER
OFFER
Taste of London is offering Tat/er
readers a Laurent-Perrier
'Grape to Glass' masterclass ticket for
70 when booked in advance
(90 on door).
Each ticket also includes:
VI P fast-track entry
Unlimited access to the VI P lounge
A glass of Laurent-Perrier champagne
20 worth of Crowns (dining currency)
to spend at Taste of London
restaurants and with exhibitors
A Tat/er Restaurant Guide
A Taste 2013 Recipe Book
Access to all show features
and demonstrations

1aste
OF LONDON

20-23 JUNE REGENT'S PARK

BRITISH AIRWAYS

$
3 South Place, EC2M 2AF
(anglerrestaurant.com;
020 32151260)

We love chis sevench-Aoor


restaurant in the very swish new
South Place Hotel, the nicest
place to stay in the Square Mile
(by a mile). The clever D&D
London people have got the
details absolurely right. The
restaurant is properly grown-up
and comfortable, with big,
well-spaced tables and a good
maitre d' who keeps his eye on
the ball. But the food 's the
rhing: white onion soup, fish
and lobster pie, Dover sole on
or off rhe bone, all served wirh
easy charm and great
proficiency.

BENTLEY'S
SEA GRILL
Harrods, 87-135 Brompton
Road, SWlX 7XL (harrods.com;
02077301234)

Watch a native oyster give its


peculiar little 'quiver', signifying
freshness, as you anoint it with
lemon juice. Or tuck into a royal
fish pie, the recipe originally
created for the Queen's 80th
birthday. You're seated ar a
marble counter, feeling a bir like
a tourist, which just makes the
whole experience somehow
more fun. The great ching
about rhe Bendey's/Harrods
marriage is char ir feels right,
which is a !or more rhan can
be said for many marriages
these days. 000

HAWKSMOOR
Sa Air Street, WlJ OAD (the
hawksmoor.com; 020 7406 3980)

T hose Hawksmoor boys are ar


ir again. Only this rime around
rhey are concentrating on fish,
giving it the steak treatment.
The roast 'shoulder' of turbot
is as meaty as any beef, ditto
wonderful monkfish g rilled
over charcoal - and sides of
triple-cooked chips and
creamed spinach are heavenly.
T he staff could charm the
birds out of the trees and it's
only the exceedingly high
decibel count that makes
Hawksmoor Air Street anything
less than perfect.

GE ALES
2 Farmer Street, W8 7SN
(geales.com; 020 7727 7528)

You takes your pick - Notting


Hill or C helsea - you picks
your fish: haddock, cod or
sole. Geales has been going
forever but a few years back it
was bought, and went (no pun
intended) upscale. Now it's
comfo rtable and laidback, the
quality of the fish is very good
and the staff are nice as can
be - although chey do get
distracted occasionally. Both
venues are charming, and che
wine list is decent and not
expensive. Always fun, at
recessio n-fri endly prices. 00

FISH MARKET
16b New Street,
EC2M 4TR (fishmarketrestaurant.co.uk;
020 3so3 0190)

ff S
11
ARkf T

Could Fish Marker


currently serve
~
London's best fis h
and chips? Ir just
might. Top marks
fo r che beer-battered
cod and golden
chips, which is not to
say you should neglect the
crayfish cocktail or the
fish pie. W ith its bleached
wood, sea-spray pastel colours
and a lovely outdoor terrace,
this is a terrific new address
in the City. 0000

J SHEEKEY
28-34 St Martin's Court,
WC2N 4AL (j-sheekey.co.uk;
020 7240 2565)
If you like a side of sleb (Simon
Russell Beale, Dame H elen
Mirren, Rupert Everett)
with your fish , try Sheekey's.
Theatreland's local is
handsome, dubby and intimate,
with consistently good food dishes like fruits de mer, fried
haddock or slip soles with
caper butter. The adjoining
lower-key Oyster Bar is
especially good for
lunch or an early
supper. 00

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BONNIE GULL SEAFOOD SHACK


21a Foley Street, WlW 6DS (bonniegull.com; 020 7436 0921)
'A clarion call to British seafood ,' say the ream at Bonnie Gull, a tiny, 26-sear, new Firzrovia
restaurant that starred life as a pop- up seafood shack in Hackney. Goodness, we love this
place, from the Portland Pearl oysters and Venus clams to the winkles, whelks and plaice in
caper beurre noiserre, served with what must be the world's chunkiest, crispest chips. Bur
most of all we love the staff-young, witty, wise, informed and intelligent, as well as
passionate about British fish. 000

"' BONNIE GUl!..ll..


SEAFOOD

SHAC~

11-15 Swallow Street, WlB


4DG (bentleys.org; 020 7734 4756)
Bentley's has been around since
1916 bur, under the watchful
eye of the irrepressible Richard
Corrigan, it feels bang up to
date. Richard's a great one for
a parry and you'd better join in,
eith er at the bar or O yster Bar
downstairs, which we favour for
lunch, or upstairs in one of the
more intimate dining rooms for
supper. Fish is always top-notch
and a recent partnership with
mixology maest ros Soulshakers
has resulted in a rather raffish
cocktail list.

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13 Kingly Street, WlB 5PW (thewrightbrothers.co.uk; 020 7434 3611)


T he Wright brothers (actually brothers-in- law) cultivate more
than fi ve million oysters a year at their Duchy Oyster Farm in
C ornwall. T hough far from the sea, their London restaurants
(Soho and Borough Market) convey all the excitement of the
boars coming in. The decoration is maritime without being
kirsch and the freshness of the fish is impeccable. Carlingford
oysters, Cornish hake and native lobster are just some of the
very fine things o n offer.

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OUTLAW'S AT THE CAPITAL f,.; '


The Capital Hotel, 22-24 Basil Street, SW3 lAT
(capitalhotel.co.uk; 020 75911202)
Nathan Oudaw sounds like a character from Guys and Dolls, bur you
won't find him fixing an illegal craps game or bunking off to the races
on a weekday. H e's hot from Rock in Cornwall, where he has a rwoMichelin-star restaurant, and his new London outpost is just as flawless.
On the menu are Porrhilly Cornish oysters, langousrines with burnt
lime and his signarure monkfish and duck, all rather wonderful. 000

WRIGHT BROTHERS

......, ....

20 New Change Passage,


EC4M 9AG (barbecoa.
com; 020 3005 8555)
Native Bri cish barbecuers
just don't have the innate
skill of their American (or
Antipodean) counterparts
and the clever ones know it,
so Jamie Oliver sensibly
teamed up with New York
pit master Adam Perry Lang
ro open Barbecoa back in
2010. And now we're cooking
- sirloin , rump, ribeye and
T-bone, along with pulled
pork shoulder from the
Texas pir smoker. G rear side
orders too, plus nice sraff,
cool views and sane prices.
A total winner.

1 Newburgh Street,
WlF 7RB (pittcue.co.uk;
no phone)
If imitacion is the sincerest
for m of flattery, Pitt C ue
can give itself a figurative
pat on the back. It's small,
not to say bijou, and, despite
the new competition, the
barbecue, brisket, pulled
pork and ribs are still way up
there in a class of rheir own.
W hen you finally get to sit
down, service is sweet and
obliging. Really, the only thing
keeping people away, a year
down rhe line, is rhe certain
knowled ge of a wait and rhe
fear that rhe daily specials
may already be finito. 0

79 Highgate Road, NW5 lTL (chickenshop.com; 020 3310 2020)


Cluck this way to N ick Jones's C hicken Shop ar Soho House Kenrish
Town. There's nothing much to it really - and therein lies irs brilliance.
You choose a quarter, half or whole, plus sides - coleslaw, corn and
crinkle fries - and decline the hot and smoky sauces. That's just
a personal preference, but we think these free-range cluckers speak
for themselves. Soho House Shored itch is about to get one too, but
wherever you ear, ir's delish, and all for less rhan a Bobby Moore.

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32 Rivington Street,
EC2A 3LX (chickenandsteak.
co.uk; 020 7749 0478)
Steak and chicken are all rhey
do at Mark Hix's restaurant in
a converted generating station .
The steak, nicely marbled and
properly aged in (of all thi ngs)
a Himalayan salr chamber, is
decent enough. As for the whole
roast chicken, it comes to the
table legs in the air, talons to
the fore, scream ing, 'Eat me! '
Positively pornographic. Great
concept food that we loved the
first rime, bur o n furth er visits
the chicken has been a bit d ry.
Ger the bird right and this
place will rock again. 00

12 Market Row, SW9 8PR


(wishbonebrixton.co.uk;
020 7274 0939)
Wishbone is located over
two fl oors in Brixton Marker
and, despite its vaunted
chicken menu, is probably
more of a d rinking joint than
a chicken stop. Ir does a great
bourbon sour as well as
ice-cold Hobo beer, which,
made fro m only one kind of
hop, is the single malt of craft
beers. As for the ch icken, we
found the Korean wings a
little grotesque, bur a leg and
thigh, fried ro a golden ran,
with a couple of orders of
thin chips, hit the spot.

CLOCKJACK
OVEN

43 The Broadway,
Muswell Hill, NlO 3HA
(chooks.me; 020 8444 5383)
This north London local is
great - the junkiest food
taken to a new low. Although
it does burgers too, the point
of C hoo ks (Australian slang
for chicken, mare) is cock,
either grilled, or buttermilkcoared and fried. Everything
we tried was incredibly tasty,
includi ng sides of coleslaw,
baked beans and onion rings.
T he choice of booze is a bit
limited but the house cocktail,
a frozen Margarita, comes in a
jam jar and is good eno ugh fo r
us. O pened by G ideon Joffe,
son of the founders of Giraffe,
this small, slightly cramped
but charming spot is also
very child-friendly.

14 Denman Street, WlD 7HJ


(clockjackoven.com;
020 7287 5111)
Just off Piccadilly Circus weirdly posh now, with all the
dealers gone and the arrival of
W hole Foods and Nespresso chis is the thinking man's
Nando's, a high-end outfit
doing great, free-range chicken
slowly roasted o n the spit (the
restaurant is named after a kind
of rotisserie grill). Order small,
medium or large, along with
homemade sauces, and look
our for the puds - there's a
gorgeous lemon tart, as well
as Purbeck Dorset ice cream,
which we first tried at the Taste
of London festival a couple
of years ago and have been
drooling over ever since. 0

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Intercontinental Westminster,
22-28 Broadway, SWlH 9JS (inter
continental.com; 020 3301 8080)
The new I nterco ntinental,
handily with in the Division
Bell, is a smoker's paradise American pit smoking, that is.
T his place is going to put hair
on rhe chests of a few wimpy
MPs. It does wonderful baby
ribs, shoulder of lan1b and a veal
T-bone that could feed a small
town. And should you, ahem,
stay the night, we hear it
also does a cracking English
breakfast, cooked ro o rder, and
the best porridge ourside
Scotland.

THE GRAZING
GOAT

THE THOMAS

6 New Quebec Street, WlH 7RQ


(thegrazinggoat.co.uk;
020 7724 7243)

44 Elizabeth Street, SWlW 9PA


(thethomascubitt.co.uk;
020 7730 6060)

With its cheery atmosphere


and bedrooms upstairs (you
expect Tom Jones to come
crashing through the ceiling in
rhe arms of a buxom wench),
the Goar may feel like a
counrry pub, bur ir's barely
200 yards from Marble Arch.
The menu is resolutely English
- Cornish mackerel, Suffolk
chicken - without being
remotely prerenrious,
and the quality
is tops. Guest ales
and Sipsmith
gin too. 00

Finding the T homas C ubitt in


Belgravia is a bit like meeting
your mechanic in Mustique as nice as it is unexpected.
(And who doesn't li ke a bit of
rough?) Always full, always
buzzy, this is a real old boozer
in the sense of being thoroughly
democratic, bur not so
old-fashioned that it doesn't
serve chilli salt squid with
citrus pepper sauce or fillet
ofbrill with lobster
beignets. Retreat to the
upstairs dining room if
you need quiet.

"$ )
71-73 Palace Gardens Terrace, W8 4RU
(themalltavern.com; 020 7229 3374)

C hef Jesse Dunford Wood scooped rhe Rising Star Award at the
2011 Tad er Restaurant Awards, and keeps on rising. At the Mall,
the food's the thing - home-smoked salmon, chicken Kiev, m ilkfed lamb, everything delicious. Ifyou want to host a no-effort
dinner party, book the Kitchen Table - Jesse's great food,
good wine and a cabaret act (his own) thrown in.

THE PRINCE
OF WALES ~
138 Upper Richmond Road,
SWlS 2SP (princeofwalesputney.
co.uk; 020 8788 1552)

T his may not be the trendiest


pub around, although it does
serve good beer, like Black
Sheep and Mad Goose. Bur
what real ly singles it out is the
most delicious cooking d ishes such as stone bass with
fried oysters, or buttermilk
pudding with poached peaches,
at prices that wo n't frighten
the horses. 'We really dislike
overpriced, overdo ne dishes,'
says the PoW's website
- and we couldn't
agree more. 00

NEWMAN
STREET

48 Newman Street, WlT lQQ


(newmanstreettavern.co.uk;
020 36671445)

Positively the nicest pub


makeover you'll have seen in
a while - a pair of handsome
rooms full of fis h and farm ing
prints, plus a few Q ueen Anne
chairs in vivid pinks and petrol
blues. Downstairs is slightly
more informal, a menu of
British faves, classic but never
fusty. Upstairs is quieter,
perfect for a business lunch.
Devon crab followed by Lop
pork or Blackface lamb stew
is the way to go.

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PARLOUR ~
5 Regent Street,
NWlO 5LG {parlourkensal.com;
020 8969 2184)

We're totally sm itten with


Parlour, the former Regent pub
now under the kitchen-control
ofJesse Dunford Wood (also of
the Mall Tavern). It's warm and
cosy and relaxed and rather
sma rt, all at the same time. And
open all day. Plus it has the best
children's menu in London cru dites with a 'dippy dip',
classic macaroni cheese and
FREE babyccinos. Too,
too adorable. 00

THE ADMIRAL
CODRINGTON ~
17 Mossop Street, SW3 2LY
(theadmiralcodrington.co.uk;
020 7581 0005)

If you're under 30, chances are


your parents had a date or two
at the Cod. W hat was once the
Hoorayest pub on the patch
has become one of the loveliest
pub restaurants in Lo ndo n. It's
fun , relaxed and very fam ilyfri endly. T he food is simple salads, burgers, steaks and
always a couple of fish dishes which is not to say
dull, and service
absolutely hits
the mark. 000

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Ari meets conlenqJOrary style al Londons 45 Park Lane hotel. Enjoy views over Hyde Park and \Volrg-dJ1g Pucks f.irsl resla.uranl in Europe: C[ T al 45 Park Lane.
+44 (0)20 7493 4654 res/aumu/s.45L@dorclwslercollec/io11.co111
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for exclusive treats, discounts and offers

THE CAPITAL HOTEL

MAISON BERTAUX

HE PARLOUR

28 Greek Street, WlD 5DQ


9 Conduit Street, WlS 2XG
(maisonbertaux.com;
020 7437 6007)
(sketch.uk.com; 020 7659 4500)
Mont Blancs, millefeuilles,
Going out for tea in London
used to be an absolute no-no
eclairs and heavenly gateaux
St- Honore are just some of the
because it meant you weren't
timeless treats at Bertaux. Bur
working. Now, with the advent
this isn't just a cake shop of the power tea, that's all
founded in 1871 , it's iconic,
changed. And nowhere is
part of Soho's history.
tea more powerful than
You can easily imagine
in the beauriful Parlour
H ercule Poirot in rhe
ac Sketch, where divine
corner with a chocolate
cakes and pastries are
fondant, smoking a
displayed like jewels in
cheroot, or Quentin
little cases, and the staff
Crisp, one keen eye
.......... are all young Bardoc or
on rhe street, biting
Alain Delon lookalikes.
All this and free wi-fi.
into a French fancy. 0

150 Piccadilly, WlJ 9BR (theritzlondon.com; 020 7493 8181)


Tea at the Ritz, in its own words, 'is the last delicious morsel
of Edwardian London. The light is kind, the cakes are
frivolous and che tempo is calm.' You sir on Louis XVI chairs
at marble tables, sipping Darjeeling, while the belle epoque
nymphs look on in Olympian disdain. This has ro be the
greatest place in our capital, which probably means on
earth, to observe this most English of rituals.

22-24 Basil Street, SW3 lAT


(capitalhotel.co.uk;
020 7589 5171)
Nathan Outlaw is the chap
with his rather fabu lous name
on the shingle at the Capital
hotel's restaurant, and the new
afternoon tea in its Siering
Room now carries his scamp
as well. Among the savoury
treats are sandwiches fi lled
with smoked salmon and
watercress, and lovely fresh
crab mayonnaise and
cucumber, both on wholemeal
bread. There's a panoply of
sweet goodies too, including
Eccles cakes, saffro n and
custard tarts and rhubarb
and ginger trifle. And, of
course, you can upgrade tea
with champagne - or anything
else for that matter - from
the Capital's extremely
well-stocked bar. 00

THE DIAMOND
JUBILEE
Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly,
WlA lER (fortnumandmason.
com; 0845 602 5694)
Opened last year in honour of
the Queen's big anniversary,
Formum's new tea salon is
grand but, with its soft colours,
soothing at the same time, and
tea here is quite an event. There
is Coronation C hicken in the
sandwiches and
scones come with
half a dozen jams.
Then there are
pastries and cakes
on the chariot.
Our only gripe is
char the staff
often look as if
they would
rather be
elsewhere.

THE CADOGAN
75 Sloane Street, SWlX 9SG (cadogan.com; 020 7235 7141)
_ Afternoon tea at the Cadogan, in association with royal
warrant holders Partridges, stars the C helsea bun created in t he 18th century in the Old Bun H ouse that
used to sit just south of here. And to coincide with the
centenary of the C helsea Flower Show (where, by the way,
G uide co-sponsors Laurent-Perrier always have one of the
best gardens), you can sip Chelsea Flower Blend, a C hina tea
with marigold fl owers. Totally made in C helsea. 00

12 Connaught Street, W2 2AF


(cocomaya.co.uk; 020 7706 2883)
Just a stroll from H yde Park,
a wonderful, wonderful cafe,
tea shop and chocolatier that
oozes style. Co comaya is an
absolure feast for rhe senses
with its pretty mismatched
china, twinkly lights and
edible delights straight our
of a fairytale. Although it's
open all day, teatime - when
there are dainty sandwiches
and cake stands piled high with
croissants, fruit tarts, cakes
and chocolates
- is especially
magical.
Also at 235
Brompton
Road,
SW3.

.us
4 Bathurst
Street, W2 2SO
(angelusrestaurant.
co.uk; 020 7402 0083)
A chic bistro in this very
smarc corner of London, right
next to the Hyde Park Stables
(please, no horsemear jokes).
Angelus's patron is Thierry
Tomasin, w ho used to be the
sommelier at Le Gavroche, so
not only do you eat really well
- roast venison loin, braised
shin of beef and a starcer of
duck liver creme brulee th at
has become a classic - bu r you
d rink really well too. T here are
clarets, Burgund ies, Cores du
Rh6nes, super-Tuscans and New
World wines aplenty.

CLUB
GAS C0 N'tute
57 West Smithfield,
EClA 90S (clubgascon.
com; 020 7600 6144)
Before Club Gascon came to
London, rhe food of southwest France was probably
considered, if it was considered
at all, as something fir only for
trencherm en. CG changed all
rhac. The small and beau tifully
assembled dishes are brilliantly
conceived, light but intensely
fl avoured , with top-quality
produce speaking for itself.
To ear here is an advencure a trip th rough Gascony with
delightful hosts. If anywhere
can give foie gras a good nam e,
it's C lub Gascon. 0000

GAUTHIER 'taate
21 Rom illy Street, WlD SAF (gauthiersoho.co.uk; 020 7494 3111)
Good taste is a rare commodity these days, bur Alexis Gauthier's
restauranc, in a Georgian Soho townhouse, has it in spades. His
Modern French food flirts with molecular gasrronomy (bur never
gets carried away) and also has an Asian tilt. You feel as
if you're dining in an immaculately decorated p rivate
house, with dinner by one of the top five French
chefs working in London right now. 00000

ROUX AT
THE LANDAU .,.i,J'

33 King Street, WC2E 8JO (dos


maggiore.com; 020 7379 9696)
T his is the restauran t that
everyone needs in their pho ne
for the momenc (unexpected
o r nor) when Cupid comes
knocking. Ir's romancic and
sexy, like nowhere else in
London. We had wonderful
boudin blanc here, followed by
slow-cooked Limousin veal,
everything just right and served
o n gorgeous Limoges porcelain.
A stonking great wine list
covers all the possibilities, and
as for the conservatory's
retractable roof - what girl
could resist?

The Langham Hotel, le Portland


Place, WlB lJA (rouxatthe
landau.com; 020 7636 1000)
If we could eat at only one fully
fledged French resrauranc in
London again, it might well be
this one. The room is gorgeous,
with swirly banquettes like
bass clefs and elegant flower
arrangemen ts. As for the food ,
young chef C hris King has
become quire a star under Albert
and Michel Roux's tutelage roast Pyrenean milk-fed lamb
and spiced orange souffie are
just two of his excepcional
d ishes.

0000

GALVIN LA
CHAPELLE
35 Spital Square, El 60Y (galvin
restaurants.com; 020 7299 0400)
The chapel of a fo rmer girls'
school in iiber-trendy Shoreditch
is n ow a French resrauranc that
beats I.es Grenouilles at their own
gam e. Ir's archi tecturally grand
yet rather intimate, with a gallery
that's a perfect space for a private
lunch or dinner. As for Jeff
Galvin's food, it's classic, rich and
properly done - no shortcuts
taken, no skimping on sauces
or anything else. Nor exactly
St Trinian's. 0000
1

40 Chalcot Road, NWl 8LS


(labsinthe.co.uk; 020 7483 4848)
A terrific neighbourhood
restauranc in Primrose H ill,
now five years old, where you
might stare off with pare o r
herrings, tout afa.it parisien,
and continue with confir de
canard with grarin dauphinois.
Ir's nor subtle or sophisticated
bur the food is g reat and it's
not expensive - nor is the
wine, which you bring in from
the offy next door. T he newer
adjoining deli/cafe do es good
things to go and there's no
nicer spot for vienno iserie
and a cup of coffee.

CAFE LE

THE RIDING
HOUSE CAFE

15 Bloomsbury Square,
WClA 2LS (lcblondon.com;
020 7400 3900)

43-51 Great Titchfield Street,


WlW 7PQ (ridinghousecafe.
co.uk; 020 7927 0840)

This absolute gem was opened


last year at Le Cord on Bleu
school, a stone's throw from the
British Museum . Everything
is made in-house and served
with great pride (if slight lack
of speed) by friendly and
willing staff. The cafe opens
early for breakfast - a boon in
these Bloomsbury boondocks
- with bread, home-made jams
and terrific viennoiserie, and
stays open right through until
the early evening. Best of all, in
good weather you can sic outside
in che lovely courtyard.

The former centre of London's


rag trade is still something of
a culinary wilderness, so hats
off co che boys behind Riding
House, a Noo Yawk-type diner
that does just about everything
you can think of and chen
some. Buttermilk pancakes?
C heck. Oysters? C heck.
Soft shell crab with
mayo? C heck. Plus the
best flat whi ce in
Noho. W inner of
Tatler's Best Front
of House Award

12 Stoney Street, SEl 9AD


(elliotscafe.com; 020 7403 7436)

If you're overwhelmed by all

2012. 00

....... ~-Heal's, 196 Tottenham Court Road, WIT 7LQ


(healsquartercafe.com; 020 7636 1666)

T he rem odelled cafe o n the first fl oor of Heat's is the latest opening
from the very talented people behind the River Quarter
Kitchen and the C helsea Q uarter Cafe, where Adele
scops in for a power salad. We had a sneak peek and
loved it: beautifully made charcuterie, well-balanced
salads, wonderful cakes and great fresh juices and coffee.

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PETERSHAM
NURSERIES CAFE
Church Lane, Richmond, TWlO
7AG (petershamnurseries.com;
020 8940 5230)

You might have thought th is


fancy calf's days were numbered
after Skye Gyngell suddenly left
a year ago and then her successor,
Australian G reg Malouf, threw
in che tea towel after barely six
months. Bue whoever's in the
kitchen now is doing a grand
job, as a recent lunch confirmed.
We ate cauliflower and caleggio
risotto, then rabbit and
chorizo - with cooking chis
good, in bucolic surround ings,
who needs co know che
chef's name? 0000

CUISINE DE BAR
39 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2TB
(cuisinedebar.fr; 020 3263 6019)

Opened by the fragrant Apollonia


Poilane, who ran the fami ly
bakery business from her dorm
room at H arvard after inheriting
it 10 years ago, C uisine de Bar is
conveniently slap-bang opposite
Peter Jones. Bright and funky,
Poilane's first London cafe is the
antithesis of an old-style Parisian
boulangerie. T he canines are
divine, as are the cakes and
cookies, and free wi-fi means you
can sore ouc your social life (and
your children's) on your iPad
mini while you're eating. Bliss. 0

che activity in Borough


Market, and just want co
sic down with a plate of
something delectable,
Elliot's is che place. le
started life as a pop-up
in Hackney's Victoria
Park and has evolved
into something
more permanent,
without losing any of its
original charm. Lunch might
be mussels with nduja (a spicy
Italian sausage), or veal tongues
followed by slow-cooked lamb
or a Barnsley chop.
All market-fresh
and served with
verve and
enthusiasm.

TEN ROOM
ATTHE
CAFE ROYAL
68 Regent Street, WlB 4DY (hotel
caferoyal.com; 020 7406 3322)

What have they done?


The famous old
Grill, where darling
Aubrey and dear
old Oscar used co
d ine, has become
a champagne and
caviar lounge. 'Lounge', one
suspects, is not a word that
O scar would have liked. H e
might have been rather fond ,
though, of the new Ten Room
- open all day, with lamb
cutlecs for lunch and custard
carts for cea. T he atmosphere
is a little strained, but it's
early still, so lee's hope scops
can be pulled our for a return
co che glory days. 000

Cl\JESIHE l!)E

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LI=! FROMl=IGERIE
2-6 Moxon Street, WlU 4EW (la
fromagerie.co.uk; 020 793S 0341)

131 Upper Street, Nl lQP


(john-salt.com; 020 7704 8955)

If you can deal with sitting on a


backless wooden platform in
a very cramped space,
chere's no more
delicious place for
lunch in all of London.
In addition co ics
brilliant charcucerie
and cheeses - which, of
course, ic is famous for La Fromagerie also does
peppy paces, salads, carts
and sandwiches, all
impeccably fresh and
mouthwatering. And if
you're in the area at teatime,
try and catch the baked
ricotta cheesecake. 00

This is a restaurant for che


Twitter generation: fast-paced,
out to shock (or at least surprise),
asphyxiatingly fashionable
and horribly uncomfortable.
Bue if you wane co know
who's up co what in London's
transmogrifying food
scene, you must try
Neil Rankin's chickenskin hash with Yukon
Gold pocacoes before
moving on co green
chilli poussin with insanely good - aged dripping
frites. Probably won't suit your
great-aunt but, then again,
you never know.

6 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7NA (polpo co.uk; 020 7836 8488)

Originally D a Polpo, this 'son of' Polpo, restaurateur


Russell Norman's original Soho bacaro, is small and
cavernous with just a touch of speakeasy. Situated next to
the Vaudeville T heatre's stage door, it's something of a
luvvie favourite. T hey do moreish arancini , mini pizzas,
fried fish and meatballs, plus rather darling litrle
\. llllW Q spritzes and Italian cocktails in D uralex glasses.

.a

POL PO
SMITHFIELD
3 Cowcross Street, EClM 6DR
(polpo.co.uk; 020 7250 0034)

Anyone for octopus? Polpo has


a new outpost in Farringdon,
an area of London with strong
Ita lian connections. With its
tiles and exposed brick, this is
an unfinished symphony
oozing charm. The food is
the usual Polpo offering of
cicchetti, pappardelle with
duck ragt1 and flou rless
orange and almond cake,
but we thought it was
particularly well p ut
together here. The
basement Negroni
bar is a good place to
hang out and get sauced. 00

49 Columbia Road, E2 7RG


(brawn.co or 020 7729 5692)

Housed in a handsome,
sunny corner building on
fashionable Columbia Road,
site of London's best flower
market (every Sunday), Brawn
explo res the relationship
between Italian dishes
and prime British produce.
Everything is sourced locally
where possible and chis is che
place to learn about organic
and natural wines - there's an
extensive list, with many by the
glass. A Tat/er
Best New
Restaurant
winner, in
2011.

'?.ov'?.

BRICIOLE ~
20 Homer Street, WlH
4NA (briciole.co.uk; 020 7723
0040)

A west Marylebone newbie


with bags of charm, B.riciole
does wonderful salumi and
cheeses (try the creamy
gorgonzola) for a mid-morning
or early evening spuntino, as
well as more subscancial lunches
and dinners. The Sicilian
cannoli is as good as you will
find in London and the wine
list is especially scrong - che
owner has a great wine
pedigree. And although chere is
now a jolly good Waicrose
round the corner, Briciole's
on-site deli is a boon. 00

l Wilbraham Place, SWlX 9AE


(lecercle.co.uk; 020 79019999)

T his is one of London's


o riginal small places
escablishmencs, and we're
still surprised to find people
who don't have it on their
radar. N oc only is Le Cercle
an excellent and very
stylish French restaurant,
ic's also just a scone's throw
from Sloane Square. The
food is absolute heaven, and
incoming chef Michael G ray
has just added 'Beef Club'
co che menu - full
of pleasures
of the flesh
such as carcare,
a ngler, sirloin
and ribeye.
G rear wines
coo.

PORTAL
RESTAURANT
AND BAR
88 St John Street, EClM
4EH (portalrestaurant.com;
020 7253 6950)

GREEN MAN &


FRENCH HORN
54 St Martin's Lane, WC2N 4EA
(greenmanfrenchhorn.com;
020 7836 2645)

From che team


behind Terroirs,
Brawn and Soif, chis
is a beauriful pub
conversion full of
natural light, mo re
Mediterranean than
norrhern European in
feeling, chat takes rhe
food and wine of rhe Loire as
its inspiration. Fish, shellfish
and game figure prominently,
while the glorious, and varied,
w hite wines of the region are
celebrated. The acoustics are
pretty unforgiving, which can
be a bit challenging at weekends,
bur ar lunchtime early in the
week it's a delight. 00

VINOTECA
53-55 Beak Street, WlF 9SH
(vinoteca.co.uk; 020 3544 7411)

The newest and most


attractive of a jolly band
of wine bars, Vino teca
Soho feacures the
bare brick, de
rigueur Berke! slicer
and boxed wines in chis case premium
AOC labels chat could
actually give the scuff a good
name - chat might sound all
coo familiar. Bue the q uality of
d ishes like rose veal
wirh anchovies,
or butcer bean
croquettes wirh
broad bean stew
and aioli, single
ir our as a cue
above.

LARDO

A refir has transformed chis


Portuguese in a Grade II-listed
warehouse into somewhere
utcerly enchanting, wirh a
gorgeous courtyard chat really
comes into its own o n a
summer's evening. Ac the tapas
bar, rhey do peciscos, jewel-like
offerings of roasred shrimp and
sard ine escabeche, all delectable.
And rhe drinks are wild: whirewine sangria and white port,
considered infra-dig by wine
aficionados - which just makes
us want co drink more. 000

'tute
23 Catherine Street, WC2B
5JS (operatavern.co.uk;
020 7836 3680)

T he very best of che new


generation of sharing-places
restaurants, Opera Tavern is
grand buc not pretentious,
relatively new but nevertheless
established. And, goodness,
you ear well here, from rhe
Pad ro n peppers co che jam6n
iberico, from the smoked-eel
brandade co rhe braised oxtail.
Scaff are sweet as can be and
very up on wine, a subject
taken seriously here. Book
upstairs if you can, as ie's less
chaotic and marginally quieter
than che ground floo r.

205 Richmond Road, E8 3NJ (lardo.co.uk; 020 8985 2683)

If you only know London Fields through Marcin Amis's slick millennium tale, it's time to revisit
- and make Lardo your first stop. T his Hackney Italian, with its utilitarian bar, canteen cables and
surprisingly sympathetic industrial lighting, could easily have come straight out of the Navigli
district of Milan, which is upcoming, unselfconscious and just a liccle edgy. T hey do excellent
home-cured salumi and extremely good baby pizzas with entirely tempting toppings, and the
wine list has some norrhern Italian gems, all offered for a song. Bravissimo! 00

SUSHINHO
392 King's Road, SW3 5UZ (ricker
restaurants.com; 020 7349 9934)
The great thing about Eight
O ver Eight is how consistent
it is. Dinner on a M onday,
late lunch on Sund ay, even
when the M ongol ho rdes
descend o n a Friday or
Saturday night, it goes on
doing what it does so well.
Terrific cocktails are whipped
up at the bar quicker than
you can say 'rambutan' and
the always reliable food soft-shell crab with jalapeno,
crispy pork belly with black
vinegar - never seems
to lose its appeal. Snag
a booth , kick back
and enjoy.

9a Devonshire Square,
EC2M 4BA (sushinho.com;
020 7220 9490)
T his Brazilian /Japanese fusion
starred small on the King's
Road, but now wings have
been spread to the O ld Bengal
Warehouse build ing in the City,
where new d ishes include
hamachi tartare with jalapeno,
lime, and robiko, and blackened
burterfish with wasabi
guacam ole. Meanwhile, in the
moodily lit C utler Bar in the
basement, the highly potent
sake- and rum-based cocktails

you are wearing as

well. 0000

ZUMA
5 Raphael Street, SW71DL (zumarestaurant.com; 020 7584 1010)
T he most narcissistic greeters, the speed iest barmen, the strongest
cocktails, the lo ngest wait fo r a table - this is Z uma. But hang on,
we've fo rgotten the most important part. The food. Ir's modern,
evolved Japanese, absolutely fresh and moreish, eaten at regular
tables, at the sem i-private Tosha table or around the robata grill.
T he customers, girls and boys, are the prettiest in town and it's no
wonder this place is still up there with the biggest hitters. 0000

ROKA
Metropolitan Hotel, 19 Old Park
Lane, WlK lLB (noburestaurants.
com; 020 7447 4747)
Nobu is no longer as hot as it
o nce was, and the only things
yo u're likely to fi nd in
th e broom cupboard
are brooms, all ofwhich
(') Q
\'
actually makes it rather
pleasant these days.
Make no mistake, this is
still a very fi ne restaurant superbly run, with exquisite
sushi, sashimi and tiradiros.
And the signature black cod,
d espite being the world's most
im itated dish, still tastes better
here than anywhere else.

37 Charlotte Street, WIT lRR (roka


restaurant.com; 020 7580 6464)
Nearly 10 years old, Roka is
getting on a bit. But it's as
cool as ever. T he room is
big and bright and the
rough-hewn wooden
\({'. co unter around the
robata grill is in nice
contrast to the sepia,
parchm ent-covered
walls - think The
Flintstones meets
Muji. Top d ishes include
robatayaki (skewers) and the
amazing rice hot po t with king
crab, while the Soch u lounge,
in the basem ent, is ideal for
a post-prand ial. 000

--

WABI ~
32-38 Kingsway,
WC2B 6EY (wabirest aurants.
com; 020 7400 5400)
Ex-Nobu chef Scott Hallsworth's
Japanese restaurant starred life
in H o rsham - that well-known
centre of Japanese cuisine befo re letting itself loose o n
London. T he dining room is
cool and rather beautiful,
devoid of knick-knackery, and
the terrace overlooks Lincoln's
Inn Fields. The m ushroom salad
with yuzu-truffle-miso dressing
is delicious, sushi and sashimi
are ace and the chesmut dorayaki
- a confect ion of chestnuts,
vanilla and Suntory brandy is wonderful. 0000

BRASSER! E
ZEDEL

EIGHTY SIX' ~ >


86 Fulham Road, SW3 6HR
(86restaurant.co.uk;
020 7052 9620)
Eighcy Six isn't a club but it
can feel like one, especially
at the weekend, when a DJ
plays all the H ooray favourites
(The Fame Monster, ind ie
rock) and Princess
Beatrice cosies up with a
bescie to d iscuss the boys.
T he great thing about
this place is the foo d clubby and ret ro, d ishes
like smoked salmo n
and beef Wellington
brought up rn dace with
a flourish. 0000

~
15 Beauchamp Place, SW3 lNQ
(nozomi.co.uk; 020 7838 1500)

Serving Canadian lobster and


New Zealand langoustine,
along with mp-grade sushi and
sashimi, Now mi is open fo r
lunch but nobody wants to
be seen here in the daylight
hours. No, chis is a place for
the evening, where Saudi sheikhs
rub shoulders with Qacari
princes, INSEAD grads hook up
with Greek shipping heiresses,
the scents ofCEau
Ambree and Allure
clash and a jeroboam
of C ristal runs to

"lllllllllilll':

4,900.

HELIOT AT

20 Sherwood Street, WlF ?ED


(brasseriezedel.com;
020 7734 4844)

Cranbourn Street, WC2H 7JH


(hippodromecasino.com;
020 7769 8888)

Jeremy King and C hris Corbin's


grand bm bargain-basement
brasserie in che smartened-up
bi c behind Piccadilly Circus
would be a fantastic additio n
to the London scene just as it
is, but the past year has seen
zedel's cabaret, the Crazy Cogs,
really cake off. Performers
include che li kes of ex-Vegas
showgirl Miss H ope Springs
and the amazing Eve Ferret
doing her own (extraordinary)
thing. Pre- or poscperfo rmance, m ck
into classic brasserie
dishes like oeufs
d urs mayonnaise,
confit duck and
gateau opera, all at
knock-down prices. 0

W hen you feel a linle trashy and who d oesn't o nce in a


while? - th is is an ideal place
to have up your sleeve. Locared
on the first floor, up above the
gaming cables of the lavishly
restored Hippodrome (you
don't need ro be a member or
gamble ro gee a reservation), it
is named afr er rhe fam ous lio n
tamer C laire H eliot. T he pick
of the long menu mighr just be
lobster spaghetti and a fabulous
knickerbocker glory,
and we rhought
the cocktails - a
Louisiana Jam and
a W hiskey Sour, in
our case - were
particularly well
made.

BOISDALE OF BELGRAVIA ~
15 Eccleston Street, SWlW 9LX (boisdale.co.uk; 020 7730 6922)

~
145 Knightsbridge, SWlX ?PA (buddhabarlondon.com; 020 3667 5222)

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Buddha-Bar has mrned into a bit of brand, but this is a slightly new
departure and the first solo project by B-B's co-founder, Tarja
Visan. There are live DJs spinning loud m usic, but there is also a
big emphasis o n food. We liked what we ace - good maki rolls,
smoked d uck and foie gras gyoza, plus a wonderful ginger lime
cheesecake with pineapple salsa - bm we did feel the concept of
a VIP area was a bit lase century.

Bo isdale is a celebratio n of the best Scottish and English produce smoked salmon, shell fish, beef and game - with whisky,
cigars and live jazz thrown in. Owner Ranald Macdonald ~
is the most politically incorrect restaurateur in Britain,
which of course makes him a superb host. T he kirchen rarely
misses a beat, miidchen in uniform wait cables and r .."""'" ""'"'
wool blankets keep you warm on the cigar
~
terrace. Scyle plus. 0000

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7-12 Sloane Square,


SWlW 8EG (tonteria.co.uk;
020 7881 5991)

C lu b su premo G uy Pelly is
a modern-day Sherman
Billingsley, and che laresr in a
disringuished line - Manharranto-London nighrlife king Serge
Becker among chem - to jump
aboard the Mexican gravy train.
W ith brilliantly ghoulish Day
of rhe Dead decor, Tonteria is a
hoor. A miniarure freight train
circles the room dispensing
shoes of tequila to the princes,
peers, showgirls and scarlets,
and - nice surprise this - rhere's
really well-prepared M exican
food, including
ceviches, tacos,
crispy squid and
steaks.

BOIS DALE ~
CANARY WHARF
Cabot Square, Canary Wharf,
E14 4QT (boisdale.co.uk;
020 7715 5818)

BC W has become London's


N o. l jazz ven ue, with Jools
H olland as irs Parron of M usic
and an al l-srar, year-round jazz
calendar feamri ng bands and
artists like N ils Solberg, th e
Red Stripe Band and Yolanda
Brown. Sec over cwo floors,
with a huge cigar terrace
overlooking C abot Square,
chis is a real supper clu b with
wonderful 'Boisdale' food and
a terrific armosphere. And if
you still think Canary W harf
is hard to gee to, wise up - it's
just 13 m inutes on the Jubilee
Line from G reen Park. Very
cool for cars. 0000

>;;, >
8 Lancashire Court, Brook Street, WIS lEY
(hush.co.uk; 020 76591500)
Ir's all about locacio n and, sandwich ed between
C laridge's and New Bond Screec, Hush has chac all righc. The
cockcail bar upscairs is always mobbed afcer office hours buc, once che
sun scares co shine, chere's nowhere in Mayfair preccier co eac a ciger
prawn Kerala masala or a bowl ofAspen fries chan under che umbrellas
in the cobbled courtyard. The recendy opened Hush Holborn does
a good job of recreating the Mayfair magic in WC I.

GRANGER & CO
23 Kensington Church Street,
W8 4LF (maroush.com;
020 7937 5363)
Owned by che Maroush
people, chis brigh c
Modern Lebanese is sec
over ewe floors. The
food is on poin c: really
fres h mezzes wich ch e
zingiesc herbs and spices;
wonderfu l roasc lamb
and baby chicken.
Service is sweec - we
adored che way che
manager kepc celling us
co 'Eac, eac!' - and
prices are fair, alchough
che overall look of che
p lace may feel
a li ccle coo
clinical for
some.

175 Westbourne Grove, Wll 2SB


(grangerandco.com; 020 7229 9TI1)
Travel down under co Auscralia
and che Pacific Rim as
experienced at Bill
Granger's rescau rant,
where every Notting
Hill yummy mummy
hopes co gee a booking
once the Messiah
has come because,
goodness knows,
it's impossible now.
If you do ever get co a cable,
we liked che ricocca pancakes
with honeycomb butter and
Bill's classic sweetcorn
fritters with roast
tomacoes, spinach and
bacon. We d id have co waic
che besc pare of an hour for
che privilege, chough. 00

MOMO <;@ >


39 Chepstow Place, W2 4TS
(colchisrestaurant.co.uk;
020 72217620)
All aboard che Tbilisi express
to this shining Georgian
rescaurant where, fran kly,
chey can'c do enough for you.
Georgians are nacurally
gracious hosts and we loved
the winsome room - we
cucked into yeasty khachapuri
(cheese-filled bread), khinkali
dumplings chac dribble racher
inelegand y down your chin
w hen you bite inco them (no
sniggering ac the back) and
sophisticated Georgian wines.
W ho knew ch e
Caucasus was so
much fun?

25 Hedden Street, WlB 4BH


(momoresto.com;
020 7434 4040)
Mourad Mazouz's famous
Moroccan rescauranc is scill
going afcer 18 years. Can dlelic,
sensuous, filled wich Norch
African arcefaccs, all of chem
auch entic and some very
beauciful, Momo also h as
a greac programme oflive
music, a loc of ic original. The
downscairs Kemia Bar has
always been very chilled and
the adjoining Mo Cafe and
cerrace is a greac place co
smoke a sheesha an d watch
che world
go by.

000

MARI VANNA
116 Knightsbridge, SWlX 7PJ
(marivanna.co.uk; 020 7225 3122)
Scare che revolution withouc
me - Mari Vanna is a step
back in cime co pre-revolucion
bourgeois Russia, a kind of dolls'
house gone mad. Ic's scuffed
with lace, china, painted
furnicure and figurines everything but the kitchen sink,
and probably that too, if you
look h ard enough. Bue don'c
gee the idea thac it's quaint
Sc Pecersburg kirsch, because
in fact ic's a very sophisticated
operation, backed by big
international players and
with flourishing branches in
Moscow and New York. T he
food - Russian with Italian
influences - is absolucely
heavenly but service is a bit
limp, a request for a shot of
vodka having co be relayed co
three different people before ic
was finally broughc. 0000

L'ETRANGER ~
36 Gloucester Road, SW7 4QT
(etranger.co.uk; 020 7584 TI18}
ChefJerome Tauvron (ex-Alain
Ducasse) does things like tuna
tataki with foie gras shavings
and a rich confit lamb shoulder,
all beautifully presenced, ac chis
racher sexy resrauranc. Lasr year,
C Erranger launched Meursaulr,
a 40-sear room downstairs
where the focus is on molecular
cockcails, including che glorious
Bang Bang You Shoe Me Down
(Havana Club, liqueur-infused
berries and liquid nitrogen)
and an impressive 1,600-bin
wine list, special ising
in ... Meursaults. 0000

Duke of York's HQ, King's Road,


SW3 4RY (saatchi-gallery.co.uk;
020 7730 8135}
This pret ty pavilion restauran t
overlooking the Saatchi Gallery
lawn is anything bur a mess.
Well, not that kind of mess. It's
managed by the experienced
Rhubarb team and the menu
- British with French and
American twists - sounds all
the righ t notes. T here's a
rather good superfood salad
with quinoa and pomegranate
and chicken fricassee with cep
sauce - the only jarring
note is the butter in
foil packers.

TOM'S

KITCHEN '~)

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27 Cale Street, SW3 3QP (toms


kitchen.co.uk; 020 7349 0202)
Tom Aikens broke new
ground when he
opened Tom's Kitchen
seven years ago. H e
cherry-picks dishes
from all over but gives
them his own special
tilt. Spicy crab cakes with
romaro salsa, chicken schnitzel
o r his famous seven-hour
confit lamb with balsamic
onions are all top choices.
Sourcing is key and noth ing
matters more than the seasons.
It's as busy as ever, and there's
a branch in Somerset H ouse,
plus a new site on the cards
for Canary W harf. 000

CARAVAN
1 Granary Square, off Goods Way, NlC 4AA (caravankingscross.co.uk; 020 71017661)
A very lively all-day restauram with outdoor searing in che new Granary Square developmem
at Kings Cross, selling 'Well- travelled food and mighty fin e coffee' (more on that lacer). But
Car:;ivan's heart is noc, as you might suspecc from its name, in the east - it looks wesc for its
culinary inspiration. Some of the things we most enjoyed here were positively New World,
including chorizo and sweet potato croquettes and a seabass ceviche with chilli and lime.
A coffee-roasting s~ation supplies various blends, which are also available to buy - we give
the house espresso a I 0/ 10. The original Caravan is in Exmouch Market, EC!. 00

HARRISON'S
15-19 Bedford Hill, SW12 9EX
(harrisonsbalham.co.uk; 020
8675 6900)
Rick Stein is a shareholder
in Balham's best
restaurant, che recently
relaunched Harrison's.
T here are lots of
great things going
o n, including corned
beef hash with green eggs,
and ham-hock kromeskies
(croquettes) wich chilli
salsa verde. T he place is
looking positively spruce
and che new basement bar,
Downstairs at Harrison's,
is a criumph - H emingway
himself would not have been
ashamed to drink here. 00

HE MONTAGU
Hyatt Regency London - The
Churchill, 30 Portman Square,
WlH 7BH (london.churchill.
hyatt.com; 020 7299 2037)
We recently visited che
Moncagu on an evening early
in che week, expecting an oasis
of calm just back from the
shoppers' chaos of Marble
Arch . Well, how wrong we
were - th is place is jumping, in
a good way, wich hocel guests
queuing for tables and in-theknow locals piling in for carrot
and lenril soup wirh cumin
and chilli oil, saffron risotto
wich cho rizo and excellent
puds. A very handy spot to
have up your sleeve.

122 Palace Gardens Terrace, W8 4RT


(theshed-restaurant.com; 020 7229 4024)
T he former Ark in Notting Hill is now the Shed, brothers Richard and
Oliver G ladwin's restaurant showcasing the farm produce of a chird
brother, ensconced in Sussex. Try che (homemade) choriw and labneh
wich Brussel sprout leaves, or che lamb 'chips', cooked down overnight,
rolled in breadcrumbs and served with harissa. Delicious! The
barnyard conceit occasionally gets a bit enervating, but it's all done
wirh verve and enthusiasm, so just rock up and muck in.

MAZI ~
12-14 Hillgate Street, W8
7SR (mazi.co.uk; 020 7729 3794)
On rhe site of Costas (a
Hillgate Village fixture since
time began , or at least since
the name Hillgate Village was
coined), Mazi has won legions
of fans in che shore rime it has
been open. It rakes a serious
but not un-fun approach to
what should indeed be the
serious business of G reek
cooking. The usual suspects Greek salad, tarama,
spanakopita - reach new, if
nor dizzy, heigh ts and we liked
the saddle oflamb but might
have hoped for a larger portion.
T he o nly thing we're not crazy
abouc is che name, because it
sounds too m uch like Nazi,
but apparently it means
'together' in Greek. 000

YA L
15-17 Broadwick Street, WlF ODL
(yauatcha.com; 0207494 8888)
Yauaccha rode to fam e on che
back of a venison puff- still
one o f London's mosc delectable
creations. This is where you
come for dim sum (lobster
dumpling wi th tobiko caviar,
char siu cheung fun) so pretty
ir seems wrong to ear chem,
though of course you muse, in
an acmosphere of near-zen
rranquillicy. T he gro undfloor rea room d oes
unbelievably good
'pecics gaceaux' and
che only duff noce
is che chairs, which
are leg-numbingly
low.

CHINA TANG

Dorchester Hotel, Park Lane,


WIK lQA (thedorchester.com;
020 7629 9988)
To mandarins, emirs and
aficionados of Chinese
cooking in general, Canto nese
is rhe zenich - and fa r and
away the best place to ear ir
in London is ac C hina Tang.
Sir David's homage to
Thirties C hinese arc deco
and chinoiserie is bold and
BC
ADDI l:S
luxurious. A vase brigade
31 Peter Street, WlF OAR
of chefs prepares soups,
(bonedaddiesramen.com;
congees, stews and
020 7287 8581)
Peking duck wich
The culc of ramen has
consummace skill,
/
become a noc-so-secrec
and service is
/ , ~ sociecy and Bone D addies
demure and correct.
is ics London frac house.
00000
Posculanrs come for ch icken,
pork and pig bones, rendered
to a milky viscosicy rhen
CHI SOU
served over noodles. The
31 Beauchamp Place, SW3 lNU (chisourestaurant.com; 020 3155 0005)
tonkotsu ramen, 20-hour
Despite irs address, C hisou is nor particularly smart o r chichi - buc
pork-bone broch, is che fi nal
iris very auchenric. O wner D avid Leroy is a world-ranked sake
haze. Ear ic and you're in.
sommelier and whac he doesn't know abouc Japanese food and drink
The experience is loud,
is probably nor worch knowing. His rescauranr feels very much like
confined , che amichesis
a well-escablished neighbourhood joinr in Tokyo, w here all che little
of refined - bur ir's
riruals of hoc rowels, compli menrary appecisers and desserts are
also weirdly
observed. Trust us, you will be in safe hands. 000
pleasurable.

HAKKASAN ~
8 Hanway Place, WIT lHD
(hakkasan.com, 020 7927 7000)
D espite che Hakkasan Group's
bid fo r world domination, che
origi nal, at che end of a slighcly
scuzzy street off Tottenham
Courc Road, is still many
people's favou rite. T here's
something glamorous, James
Bo nd-like even, about
descend ing che wide, subcly
illum inated stairs to the deep
basemenr world of wood en
screens and black and gol d
etched panels. And as for the
food, it's rich and indulgenr C hinese, b ut no t
for the masses.

00000

NAAMYAA CAFE
407 St John Street, EClV 4AB
(naamyaa.com; 020 3122 0988)
Modelled on the upscale cafes of
Bangkok, chis seductive new
Thai/Asian from (Wagamama/
Busaba founder) Alan Yau is
probably the nicest rhing rhar's
happened at rhe Angel since Lyons
opened a Corner House here in
1921. Everything is delicious,
from che temple-tiled walls to
the gorgeous granite countercops
and, of course, che food auchcnric and sophisricared, wich
compelling and complex flavours,
many of which you may nor
have experienced before. 00

MR CHOW ~
151 Knightsbridge, SWlX 7PA
(mrchow.com; 020 7589 7347)

c..-:..:;g ~i

26-42 Bond Street,


WS SAA (hotelxanadu.com;
020 30111666)

Located in Ealing's new


Hore! Xanad u, Koobla is a
large and airy dining room
that mo rphs quite easily from
the hotel's breakfast room into
a weekend brunch and di nner
venue. From a m enu inspired
by the food along the Silk
Route, you might start with
curried scallops o r razor clams
and continue with Mongolian
calf rib or Javanese vegetable
and coconut-milk soup. Ir's
a hot and spicy journey. Staff
are charm ing and can't do
enough for you.

MA NGO TREE
46 Grosvenor Place, SWlX 7EQ
(mangotree.org.uk; 020 7823 1888)

A bustling, bright,
contemporary T hai, with che
feel of a big-city brasserie and
terribly fri endly service. In the
bar they do delicious cocktails,
and the prawn crackers are so
fresh you can easily fill up on
chem before you order a single
dish. Bur be warned - portions
here are generous and the
quali ty of the cooki ng is high.
As oflast year, Mango Tree has
a small outlet in Harrods, which
features many of ics most
popular dishes, along with new
o nes like T hai papaya salad
and Wagyu beef curry. 000

T he daddy of hip C hinese


has just celebrated its 45rh
an niversary. Congratulations,
Michael Chow - no one does
it better than you (even if you
spend most ofyour time in LA).
Although C how's has always
had its followers, the opening
of One Hyde Park - and its
new neighbour the Bulgari
Hotel - seems to have given
this Knightsbridge perennial
(where Snowdo n and
Bailey were once
regulars) a shot in the
arm . And, let's face it,
green prawns washed down
wich Laurene-Perrier rose
is still a very stylish way
co do supper around

here. 00000

~
88 Worship Street,

ROYAL CHINA
13 Queen sway, W2 4QJ

EGA 2BE (hkklondon.com;


020 3535 1888)

(royalchinagroup.biz;
020 7221 2535)

This new C hinese from the


Hakkasan Group is so cool it
m igh t just be easier to spend
the evening with the fridge
door open. Bur do go anyway,
because once you're there,
HKK- an intimate restaurant
enclosed by a luminescent
curtain - is rather magnificent.
With a single tasting menu
at 95 for 15 courses (or eight
courses at lunch for 48),
w ine flights, a bespoke tea
trolley and slightly scary staff,
there can be no better place
in the Square Mile
co impress your
friends - or,
better still, your
rivals.

The flagship eatery of


London's top C hinese
restaurant group re-launched
last year after a refit - and
nothing pleased its loyal
supporters (us) more than the
face that very little changed.
Yes, the swans in relief were
replaced with a mural and the
gold-leaf ceiling was re-gilded.
That was about it. Sunday dim
sum here is still the highlight
of the week and has an energy
all its own (doors open at
11 am - expect to queue).
Among our favourite dishes
are Royal China cheung fun
(as good as anywhere in
Hong Kong) and fabulous
yam cakes. 0 0

MIN JIANG ~
Royal Garden Hotel, 2- 24 Kensington High Street, W8 4PT (minjiang.co.uk; 020 73611988}

A hugely talented kitchen crew and puncti lious service combine to make Min Jiang one of the
best Chinese restaurants in London, popular with the (well-heeled) expat Chinese and Indian
communities. Situated on the I 0th floor of the Royal Garden Hotel, overlooking Kensington
Gardens, M]'s piece de resisrance is che Peking Duck in two servings - utterly refined - although
frankly you won't go far wrong with anything on the menu. O nce a 'besc-kept' secret, Min Jiang
is now well out of the bag and often mobbed T hursday through Sunday. 0000

UMU
14-16 Bruton Place, WlJ 6LX (umurestaurant.com; 020 7499 8881)
Umu is the pre-eminent purveyor of Kyoto cooking in Londo n.
Its standards are almost scarily high, and if this pushes the price up,
so be it. On a recent visit, two spectacular new d ishes on the kaiseki
menu - chestnut 'candy', sea urchin and foi e-gras custard and
Welsh eel with plum sauce- reaffirmed what we already knew: that
Japanese restaurants don't just appear, they evolve. The sake list runs
to mo re than 150 varieties and service is exceptional. 00000

NOVIKOV ASIAN

" f;2 ~'

50a Berkeley Street, WlJ 8HA


8-10 North Audley Street,WlK
(novikovrestaurant.co.uk;
6ZD (princessgardenofmayfair.
020 7399 4330}
com; 020 7493 3223)
Blond wood everywhere, a vast
Princess Garden has been here
open kitchen with produce
for 30 years but feels so fres h it
proudly o n d isplay and Dean
and Dan Caren hold ing court at
could have opened yesterday.
This is what Mayfai r is about:
table No. 3 - welcome to the
the luxury of big tables and
~ world of Novikov Asian,
l \ separated fro m its Italian
the grand gesture. Spill a drop
of plum sauce on the
partner by only a hostess
starched white cloth and~
stand, a cloakroom
a fleet of waiters comes
and a wal l of wine.
running to replace
~ Yes, it is very 'scene', but
the food - Russian king
it. As fo r the food Szechuan-sryle hot and
crab and salmon rartare,
sour soup, abalone, aromatic ~yuzu-scented black cod,
.r
seared Wagyu sirloin - is
crispy d uck- it never
fails to deliver.
delicious. 0000

\tl
I
I

: P>AN CHAI .
~T

HAlllR:QOS _
PAN CHAI AT HAR.RODS

87- 135 Brompton Road, SWlX 7XL (harrods.com; 020IBO1234}


A terrific pitstop when your shopping sortie needs spicing up.
There are 22 seats around a counter surrounding the ki tchen,
which serves a menu put together by Ian Pengelley (who made his
name at E&O). T his is the place for very fresh sashimi, rock-shrimp
tempura, 'inside-out' sushi rolls and plum- misc -marinated
seabass. Pan Chai does events catering too - handy if it's
co ok's night off and you can't be bothered to stuff mushroom
vol-au-vents. Pick up in store or H arrods will deliver. 000

SHOR.YU
9 Regent Street, SWlY 4LR
(shoryuramen.com; no phone)
If London's been slow to
embrace the ramen hysteria
that has gripped San Francisco
and New York fo r a decade, it's
maki ng up for lost time. At
Sho ryu, piggy bones are boiled
down, and the residual broth
is fi lled with noodles and sold
to hipster food n uts. Focusing
on Hakata noodles fro m
southern Japan, the menu
offers a dozen variations, as
well as oddly addictive steamed
hirara buns and plum wine
with collagen: the
ultimate, nonp rescriptio n
pick-me-u p.

SHIOR.I
45 Moscow Road, W2 4AH (sushiofshiori.co.uk; 020 n219790)
A change of name as well as concept, as the highly-regarded
Sushi of Shiori moves fro m Eusto n to Bayswater. And what
a difference a coup le of miles can make. Former Umu chef
Takashi Takagi offers an exquisitely honed kaiseki menu
consisting of a dozen tiny 'courses', each brilliant and jewel-like.
T he cohesion of these dishes is striking, and they're served with
__,..,....,~....,~
q uiet efficiency and grace by a very charm ing staff.
Nlll~Ufllllt'll"!ll"f' Surely Michelin stars must follow. 00000

BROMPTON
ASIAN
BRASSER.IE
225 Brompton Road, SW3 2EJ
(bromptonasianbrasserie.co.uk)
Arkady Novikov, who has a
staggering 50 restaurants in
and around Moscow, owns a
pad in South Ken and used to
enjoy eating at the Brompton
Q uarter Brasserie, a sunny
corner spot opposite the
Brompton O ratory. He liked
it so much he bought it. About
to launch as we go to press, the
new place will be smart and
expensive and will bring the
n umber ofNovikov restaurants
in London to three.
There's no reason to
think he'll stop
rhere. 0000

SHOGUN
Millennium Hotel, 44 Grosvenor Square, WlK 2HP
(millenniumhotels.co.uk; 020 74931255)
W inner of Tatler's Test of T ime Award in 20 12, Shogun is almost a
second home for some Mayfai r locals. There's no fi ner hand-rolled
sush i in London, and certainly no fi ner hostess than H iromi
M itsuka. She welcomes you to her cavernous basement restaurant
with open arms and is always o n hand, d ispensing sake in copious
amounts alo ng with wit, wisdom and gracious hospitality of
a kind seldom fo und in the capital. 0000

THE RIVER
QUARTER

LE PONT DE
LA TOUR ~

Molasses House, Plantation Walk,


SWll 3TN {riverquarter
kitchen.com; 020 7978 5055)
Take in the view at chis new
spot opposite Chelsea Reach it's like stepping into a Whistler
painting. This is the nicest
restaurant in Bartersea, and
nor just for its panoramic sweep
of the Thames. Bright and
welcoming, it h as a jolly bar fo r
cocktails and a lively menu full
of things you want to ear, like
crisp salads and terrific fish and
chips. And it's nor just a
fair-weather friend - full
of well-heeled locals,
it was as buzzy on a
freezing January day as
it's likely ro be on any
summer Sunday.

SUSHISAMBA

~ 'taste
40th floor, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY
(duckandwaffle.com; 020 3640 7310).
Star Trek for food ies. A glass lift speeds you up here in 20 seconds
flat, an incredible adrenalin rush as your ears pop and Lo ndon turns
Lilliputian below. D ish es like chip-shop cod tongues and smoked
haddock hash sic happily with Herdwick lamb cuclecs or a whole
roast chicken. T he duck and waffle itself is confic duck on a waffl e,
with fried duck egg and maple syrup. Ir's open rill 5am too.

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BABYLON<-@>

GALVIN

The Roof Gardens, 99 Kensington


High Street, W8 SSA (roofgardens.
virgin.com; 020 7368 3993)
Sir Richard Branson may
sometimes get the trains wrong
but his Kensington restaurant
is right on crack. Roof Gardens
virgins can't believe chis sevenchfloor wonderland, with its
rooftop vistas, exotic plants
and fou r pink flamin gos (Bill,
Ben, Splosh and Pecks), while
Biba-era hipsters are thrilled to
see it's still going strong. T he
surprise, perhaps, is the food risotto, seabass, daube of
beef, all of it fresh ,
seasonal and
abundant. 000

28th floor, London Hilton,


22 Park Lane, WlK lBE (galvinat
windows.com; 020 7208 4021)
It used robe said chat great
views and great food d idn't mix,
but in London high-rise dining
changed for good with the
opening of Galvin at Windows,
on the 28th floor of the Hilron
o n Park Lane. H igh above the
city, chef Andre Garrett's food
is smart and seasonal, with its
origins in classic French cooking,
while service under heartthrob
manager Fred Sirieix
is meticulous. T his
is theatre in the
sky.

c:..; 1

36d Shad Thames, SEl 2YE (lepont


delatour.co.uk; 020 7403 8403)
A stone's throw from Tower
Brid ge, with a wonderful
ouclook across the river to the
City, marine-themed, stylish
Pont is one of the loveliest places
we can imagine to bring an
our-of-town visitor, or p erhaps
to celebrate an anniversary, or
just for a romantic d inner. T he
food, which has been a liccle
erratic in recent years, is now
absolutely on track (under
the baron of chef Tom Cook),
and the wine list is one
of London's most
exhaustive. A live
pianist plays in
rhe bar most
evenings, adding
to the mag ic. 0000

~ 'lute

38th floor, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY (sushi


samba.com; 020 3640 7330)
Sushisamba - a fusion of Brazilian, Peruvian and Japanese chat
first launched in New York more than a decade ago - could have
been just another gimmicky way of parting hungry pumers from
their money. Bue these fl avours and textures are, as the Latinos
say,Jenomenal: sashimi ciradiros (a sort of cevich e/sashimi
h ybrid), vegetables on the robaca grill and the R io G rande
churrasco, a p late of meat big enough for an army. There's also
an outside terrace - not suitable for vertigo sufferers. 000

CAROM''W'
100 Wardour Street, WlF OTN
(meza-soho.co.uk; 020 7314 4002)
Ic's noc often a good rescauranc
in che capical scays under che
radar for long, buc chac's che
case wich C arom. This is a
racher wonderful spoc, which
we discovered one day while
heading up Wardour Screec
looking for som ething hoc and
spicy. Sicuaced alongside Meza
(and above Floridira), iris
noisy, full-on and locs of fun.
The food is abundant and some
of ic - braised lamb Rajaschani
sryle, slow-cooked dhal from
rhe randoor- is absolurely
firsr class, a real surprise in a
restaurant char is basically
a glorified bar. Besc o f all, ic's
nor coo expensive. 00

15-17 Blandford Street, WlU


3DG (trishnalondon.com;
020 7935 5624)
Alchough we love che Bombay
original, we were never all char
raken wirh irs London ourposc.
U-shaped, a lirrle awkward
(especiallywich shopping bags)
and as for che parking... Then
slowly we came around.
Koliwada shrimp, Keralan quail
and seafood biryani worked
cheir magic. Service is sweet
and obliging and though che
room can scill feel
cramped, rhe
gorgeous marble
and brickwork
win ouc.
Thumbs
up.

TAMARIND c"@' 'tute


20 Queen Street, WlJ SPR (tamarindrestaurant.com; 020 7629 3561}
T he God of Small Things ... chis beauriful Michelin-scarred
basemenc rescauranc works on many levels. Movie moguls, jusc
in from Bollywood, do dinner and clinch che deal. Pukka
Ind ian families come for a grand Sunday lunch. You and I
sir down co a ligh r supper oflobsrer masala and champagne
and, d espire rhe parry atmosphere, have eyes only for
each ocher. Tamarind is sophiscicaced, lively and
oddly romantic and we can'r gee enough ofic. 0000

POTLI "$-'

\ if...&

157-159 Notting Hill Gate,


Wll 3LF (chakralondon.com;
020 7229 2115)
D esigned buc noc overly so ,
and wich a slighdy rarefi ed
though urrerly delicious menu
(dishes inspired by rhe royal
kitchens of Lucknow and rhe
Punjab), chis is a great Indian
rescauranc for a dare or fo r
w hen you wane everyrhing co
be jusc righc. Alchough, chac
said , rhe air-conditioning
went on rhe frirz rhe nighr we
visited (even the besc of us
blow our cool occasionally).
T he nice rhing about C hakra
is chac ic gees Modern Indian
spor on - no o il or ghee-heavy
dishes, no u ncomforrable
serviliry, jusr terrific riffin in
slick surroundings.

319-321 King Street, W6 9NH


(potli.co.uk; 020 87414328}
Everyone's jumping on rhe
screec-food bandwagon, so you
have co sore che w heac from
che chaff W hile che room,
decorated wirh porli - or spice
pouches - is pleasant enough,
ir's che food and unaffected
service chat really sec chis
C hiswick rescauranc apart.
Each of che house specialities
we cried - C hicken 65 (fried
wirh curry leaves), Parrani
p rawns, lamb coconut fry was a winner. Plus, everything
is locally sourced where possible
and all che fish is sustainable.
If you claim you can ear a berrer
Indian supper in wesr London
and gee change from 40 , you
may well be fibbing. 00

AMAYA
Motcomb Street, SWlX 8JT
(amaya.biz; 020 7823 1166)
The go-ro resrauranr fo r
Belgravians and C helsea-ires
in search of a curry fi x
(Gwyneth Paltrow comes all
the way from Hampstead).
Tucked away in the Halkin
Arcade, it feels like a private
club, which, of course, it isn't.
The food, lots of ic prepared at
open stations around the room,
can be absolutely delightful,
although one senses a bit of
laurel-resting. But all in all,
shimmering with candlelight
at night, this is a perennial
favourite. 0000

BOMBAY BRASSERIE $ '


Courtfield Road, SW7 4QH (bombaybrasserielondon.com; 020 7370 4040)
Ac 31 years young, Bombay Brasserie seems to have the secret of eternal youth. (Is it the
curcumin in the curry?) And since its birthday celebrations last year, a whole new generation has
discovered BB, where Sir Sean Connery used to come in for a chicken masala and Tom Cruise
still gets takeaways, most recently when filming All You Need is Kill. Oh, and we've made a great
discovery - the bar. Cocktails apart, they do some decent beers, including Brooklyn Lager and
the rather bizarre Goose Island Urban W heat Ale, said ro be President Obama's favourite. 000

7 Boundary Street, E2 7JE


(dishoom.com; 020 7420 9324)
This Shoreditch restaurant,
like its Covenr Garden sibling,
is a riff o n the disappearing
Irani cafes of Bombay. I e's
cluttered, chaotic and conjures
up a nostalgia you never knew
you had. Go for the breakfasts,
roomali rolls, bi ryanis, chillimarinated whole leg oflamb
and - and it's a bigANDgreat drinks, the best of them
gin-based. Dishoom is a bit
Disney, but it's also
totally pro, so we
forgive it.

CINNAMON
CL U B'taste

41 Buckingham Gate, SWlE 6AF


30-32 Great Smith Street,
(quilon.co.uk; 020 78211899)
SWlP 3BU (cinnamonclub.com;
T he covers are off: out has
020 7222 2555)
gone the pain ring-by-numbers
decoration and in have come
C innamon C lub has been
traditional jali screens, Indian
absent from this guide for a
fretwork and mood lighting.
couple of years, but chefVivek
Ever so sexy. C hef Sriram Aylur
Singh is back on top form,
doing incredible things with
was one of the first to bring
offal and game birds. T he wine
Keralan coastal food to London
list, which was always a cut
and his cooking has lost none
above those of ocher Indian
of its freshness and authenricicy.
restauranrs, has expanded and
We had chargrilled scallops,
matured. O ur only grumble is
baked black cod and a seafood
>t',.,-..,,
moilee to end all seafood
the room , with booklined gallery - so
~
._'I'!::.
moilees- ghee-free and
~
~ tasting of the ocean .
cutting-edge a
decade ago, it
' ,,.
If you haven't had
Quilon in your
now feels a little
impersonal.
sights, it's time co
0000
zero in.

BEN ARES

'taate

.r J

12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, WlJ 6BS


(benaresrestaurant.com; 020 7629 8886)
London's smartest Indian restaurant is feeling just a
bit corporate these days, with tables of sui ts (albeit
well-made ones) sometimes seeming ro predominate.
Although we bemoan any loss of glamour, Acul Kochhar's Modern
Indian cooking - which cleverly marries regional Indian dishes with
great British produce - is still up there, with dishes like liver and
kidney masala pie, or fish curry made with Brixham cod.

DIRTY BURGER
300 King's Road, SW3 SUH
(byronhamburgers.com;
020 7352 6040)
There's nothing m uch to a great
hamburger - so says Byron's
fo under Tom Byng. His recipe
is prime Scottish beef, ground
d aily, in a fluffy but fi rm bun
(and who doesn't like fi rm
buns?) , with cheese, bacon and
their own sauce optional.
Ir's hard to imagine a
simpler, or better, burger.
Wash it down wich
bourbo n or beer at
any of the 31 London
branches, or the
ones in O xford,
Camb ridge and
Bluewater
in Kenc.

79 Highgate Road,
NWS lTL (eatdirtyburger.com;
020 3310 2010)
N ick Jones does it again. In a
lean-to corrugated-iron shack
overlooking a car park 'round
che back' of the northern outpost
of Pizza East and his C hicken
Shop. T he high srools need
footrests and the d oor keeps
gaping open, bur once you
have that cheeseburger in your
hands you real ly don't care. Tc's
umidy, but it's very good. Ad d
fri es or onion rings, a thick shake
and an Americana sou ndtrack
and the triumvirate
of taste at Soho
House Kentish
Town is
complete. 0

$
74 Welbeck Street, WlG OBA (meatliquor.com; 020 7224 4239)
H old the M eat Liquo r fo lk responsible, very respo nsible, for t he
burger madness sweepin g London. T hese guys fo u nd a gap in the
market when they started selling their now- infamous 'car-crash'
burgers from a roving food truck four years ago. What a bloody
mess. But people loved them and wanted more. So Meat Liquor
fou nd a permanen t home, in the former Spaghetti H ouse, behind
D ebenhams. For the latest instalments, see below.. .

BURGER
29 Clarges Street, WlJ 7EF
(burgerandlobster.com;
020 74091699)
T h e name says it all: burger and
lobster... or lo bster and burger.
T har's what you get. T hat's
all you get. The lobster is
Canadian, au nacurel o r in a
bun. Since both surf and
turf cost the same (20), you
m ig ht think the crustacea
a no- brainer. T hen again,
this particular bit of beef is
rather wonderful, nicely
ch argrilled and topped wirh
cheese o r bacon - or naked,
as you wish - with chips and
salad. In the age of too much
ch oice, lee's hear it fo r B&L.
Now also in Soho, Farringdon,
Sr Paul's and soon, it's said,
Canary Wharf

SH A KE SH ACK
24 Market Building,
The Piazza, WC2E 8RD
(shakeshack.com)
Gold en boy Danny Meyer
(the Richard Caring of North
America) may not make the
best burgers in the Big Apple
bur his Shake Shack - originally
a stand in Madison Square Park
- somehow captured the public's
imagination. Now these guys
are bust in' out all over. They
do burgers, hot dogs and
crinkle-cut
chips, but the
real joy of
the place is
somethin g
called frozen
custard . Now,
that's what yo u
call a N ew York ,_.__rrv
experience. 0

MEAT
MARKET
The Deck, Jubilee Market Hall,
Tavistock Street, WC2E 8BE
(themeatmarket.co.uk; no pho ne)
Like sister Mear Liquor, chis is
trailer- trash-cool, hie-and -run, a
kind of beautiful chaos. Scaff are
so chilled they can be chilly and
the men u is brief: three burgers,
two hot dogs and that culinary
crime against humanity, the Philly
C heesesceak. Drinks - booze o r
otherwise - are limited to rwo a
perso n, can you believe? T here's
also Meat Mission in H axton,
w hile a new branch rumoured
fo r Brighton could g ive new
meaning to the dirty weekend. 0

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CAMINO CRUZ
DEL REY
3 Varnishers Yard, Nl 9FD
(camino.uk.com; 020 78417331)
Cruz del Rey? Sounds more
exotic than King's Cross.
Camino is a hi-energy
Spanish-themed bar, restaurant
and music venue with a full
calendar oflive D Js spinn ing
a vast range of sounds. It's
hugely popular with a wired
young crowd. T his may sound
like Shagalufhell but in face
ic's a very well-run operation,
with good grub and drink at
attractively low prices. Other
Caminos are in San Pablo
(Sr Paul's), Monumento
(Monument) and Puerto del
Canario (Canary W harf). 0

54 Frith Street, WlD


4SL (barrafina.co.uk;
020 7813 8016)
The H are brothers'
slick Soho tapas
joint - just 23 stools
round a three-sided
coun cer - outclasses
th e competition.
W hile a lot of UK
operators feel char rapas
is all about smoke-filled
dives smelling of sour
sherry, the H ares know chat
Catalan bars, on which Barrafina
is modelled, are modernisra and
cutting edge. Expect great food
- jam6n serrano, razor clams,
gambas al ajillo - and to queue.
But the line moves quickly.

10 Seymour Place, WlH 7ND (donostia.co.uk; 02036201845)


Donostia is the Basque name for San Sebastian, and this newbie
aims to celebrate the Basque Country's extraordinary food. If we
found the cooking a little generic, everything we ate was nevertheless
very good, and we liked the txakoli (sulphury Basque white wine) and
the sidra (cider) - acquired tastes if ever there were any. A long, narrow
bar dominates, so the choice cables are the two by the window
looking onto the street, or those in the back room.

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JOSE/PIZARRO
104 Bermondsey Street, SEl 3UB
Uosepizarro.com; 020 7403 4902)
If your travels rake you to
Bermondsey Street (and
they sho uld because, w ith
the Shard open, this is now
th e golden scrip) you have
two aurhencic Spanish
restaurants to choose from.
T he first is Jose, a capas bar
w ith just four cables, where
langoustines thrown on a hot
grill gee the exocrine glands
working overtime. The larger
Pizarro is a little more formal
and much more comfortable.
TV chef Jose Pizarro is the
padron of both. 0 /000

33 Charlotte Street, W1T lRR (fino


restaurant.com; 020 7813 8010)
Can it really be 10 years since
chis groundbreaking, utterly
classy Spanish restaurant
launch ed? Tc can. W hat's really
amazing, though, is that it feels
like it opened yesterday.
~
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and sympathetic
~ ,. lighting all p lay their
part in keeping it
fo rever young.
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As do the babiest,

sweetest chuleras (lamb


chops), the grandest (and
~ \!the simplest) wines and
~':..l a highly informed
~ staff, always in the
crispest whites.
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fDlJCA

195 Great Portland


Street, WlW 5PS
(ibericalondon.co.
uk; 020 7636 8650)
Iberica occupies a
b right corner site at the
Regenc's Park end of G reat
Porrland Street. For a big
restaurant over two floors, the
seating can be a little cramped.
Bur chat's really it for th e low
points, because otherwise it's a
treat, with beautiful modern
tiles, h andsome white ch ina
and gracious staff (nearly all
of them Spanish). Dishes we
enjoyed included mackerel
tarcare, a rich arroz negro an d
tarta de la abuela ('grandmother's
tart') served in a Kilner jar. 00

EL PIRATA DETAPAS
115 Westbourne Grove,
W2 4UP (elpiratadetapas.co.uk;
020 7727 5000)
Omar Allibhoy, an energetic
young Spaniard who chinks we
sh ould all be earing more rapas,
is chef of chis sophisticated
rescau ranc, said to be a favou rite
ofScella McCartney and Sienna
M iller. Time spent at El Bulli
has given Omar's cooking some
star quality, and we can attest to
the brilliance of his octopus
carpaccio with (now famous)
mandarin caviar. But h e's also
surprisingly grounded, and a
simple p iping-hoc tortilla was
equally well done. 00

62 Goodge Street, WlT 4NE


(barrica.co.uk; 020 7436 9448)
A smart room with a black and
white tiled floor and ochre walls,
showcasing Basque and cocina
nueva-style rapas - we especially
liked the air-dried tuna with
butifarra and braised veal cheeks
with pedro ximenez. Staff are
friendly, if occasionally forgetful,
and the wine list is particularly
strong too, with Ravenr6s
sparklers, great Priorats and
the silky Ribera del Duero
Ali6n, a snip at 65. Barrica's
sister rescauranc, Copica, is in
D'Arblay Street,

Wl.

COYA
118 Piccadilly, WlJ 7NW
(coyarestaurant.com;
020 7042 7118)
Nexc co che Hard Rock Cafe,
on the strip of Piccadilly chat
cime forgot, the pros behind
La Petite Maison have bravely
opened Coya, a sous-sol
Peruvian rescauranc wich a
privace members' bar. If the
design feels a bic resorr-hocellike, che food from ex-Ivy and
Caprice chefSanjay Dwivedi
really jives. Ceviches, tiradicos
and parrillada skewers are
served wich finesse and we love
rhe properly made Pisco Sours
and collection of rare, vincage
rums. Live Latin music adds
co the fun. 000

9 Duke Street, WlU 3EG


(zoilo.co.uk; 020 7486 9699)
fu ac siscer rescauranc Casa
Malevo, chere's already a big
scene here, parc- Lacin, parcEuro and d eliciously sexy.
Scarcers such as grilled
occopus wich pocaco
salad or prawns
with pork
belly are
meant for
sharing
(chough no one's
forcin g you), and che
Argencinian beef, cooked
on the asado grill, hits the
spot. Malbec flows , and che
good-looking (Icalian)
waicers smile.

9 Old Compton Street, WlD SJF (labodeganegra.com; 020 7758 4100)


Serge Becker's M exican is already so ablaze you need flame-retardanc
cloching jusc co gee chrough che door. On che ground floor, on Moor
Streec, chere's a taqueria and ceviche bar, but ic's in che basemenc
rescauranc - encered via a faux sex shop and d eco raced wich, among
ocher curiosicies, D ay of che Dead paraphernalia and an upended
piano - chac che party cakes off. 'We had Jude Law in here lase nighc,'
says our waicress, 'and Daphne G uinness che nighc before.'

LIMA1ut8
31 Rathbone Place,
WlT lJH (limalondon.com;
020 002 2640)
Knock, knock! Who's there?
Yetta. Yetta who? Yer
another Peruvian
restaurant. Even if you're
experienci ng ceviche
overload, don'c give up before
you've cried Lima, che mosc
sophisticaced of che recenc
crop. The menu is peppered
wich Peruvian produce - many
fruic and vegetables scill far
from che mainscream - and
che cooking is punccilious. An
education in South American
gascronomy. 000

~
61 Rupert Street, WlD 7PW
(spuntino.co.uk; no phone)
Housed in a former butcher's
shop (check out chose original
tiles), chis hybrid lcalianAmerican diner from che
ubiquicous Russell Norman
(Polpo, Mish kin's... ) is our
favourice of his growing bunch.
Truffled egg coasc may look
like an experimenc gone badly
wrong bur ic casces sublime.
Ditto mac'n'cheese, and syrupd rizzled French coast. le gees
crowded sining round che
chree-sided councer, so jusc
cake anocher slug of wine and
chink of Sicily.

CEVICHE
17 Frith Street, WlD 4RG
(cevicheuk.com; 020 7292 2040)
Lacin America is having ics
moment, and nowhere more
than at Ceviche, the Soho joinc
chat has quickly become a social
club for all expac Latinos in
London. Small places - ceviches,
tiradicos, arroz con mariscos are delicious, squeaky fresh and
served up with enchusiasm by
staff whose average age could be
14. Drinks are varied and
vicious, the shoes of eucalypcusinfused pisco winning particular
plaudits. A Shoredicch branch
will open lacer chis year. 00

BUBBLE DOGS

ELECTRIC
DINER

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Wll 2ED (electricdiner.com;
020 7908 9696)
The Electric wasn'r showing
irs age exactly bu r ir was
gerring a bir rired in rhe
afternoon. Now ir's
cransformed inro an all-day
diner wirh the most luxurious
boo rhs, posirively rhe besr
milkshakes an d sraff who've
all been ro charm school. We
loved rhe home-made bologna
sandwich, eggs wirh potato
hash and lemon meringue pie,
not co mention the crafr beers
and kick-ass cockrails. 00

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King's Cross Filling


Station, Good's Way, NlC 4UR
(shrimpys.co.uk; 020 8880 6111)
Bistrotheque fo unders David
Waddington and Pablo Flack's
'Cali-Mex' restaurant, in the
kiosk of a form er petrol station,
is cute - far cuter than you'd
imagine given the locale, and
full of rhe prerriesr boys
and girls, d ressed up to the
99s, and not all of them
well behaved (yippee!).
Although rhe food is a bit
hit and m iss, Shrimpy's has
got its soft-shell crab burger
down to a fine art - plus the
cocktails are absolutely the
wildcat's whatnots.

7 Central St Giles Piazza, St Giles


High Street, WC2H 8AD (cabanabrasil.com; 020 7632 9630}
Tall and tanned and young
and lovely, bur the girl sirring
across from us on rhe recycled
denim banquette isn't from
Ipanema - she's from Gerrards
Cross. Ir's easy co make friends
ar rhis energetic young
Brazilian, with its vast,
wraparound floor-co-ceiling
windows, great
bar dispensing
kiwi Caipirinhas
and tangy,
inexpensive
street food dough balls,
Malagueta
prawns and pulled
pork feijoda. Bighearted, colourful and
fun; it's great for a night out
with a bunch of mates.

70 Charlotte Street,
WlT 4QG (bubbledogs.co.uk;
020 7637 7770)
If we'd cold you a couple of
years ago that an ex-Noma chef
would open a restaurant selling
only champagne and hotdogs,
and that people would queue
around rhe block to eat there,
you'd have had us certified.
Well, he d id, and they do, and
if you haven't already been to
Bubbledogs - with
its beef, pork and
veg d ogs, terrific
crinkly chips and
grower champagnes
- breathe in, because
only the very
slimmest will
be able to
squeeze onto
one of t he (nonbookable) high tables
for four. 00

9-23 Charlotte Street, WlT lRL


(wahaca.co.uk; 020 7323 2342}
We were in C harlorre Srreet
last summer, outside the
Fitzrovia branch ofWahaca
the day it opened, watching as
a Mexican band whipped the
natives queuing on rhe street
for a free burrito into a frenzy.
You could be cynical and say
people will do anything for a
freebie - and you might be
right - but with its
mezcal bar and market
shop, we think chis is a
great add ition to an
already foodie srreer.
We've yet co eat a
bad meal at any of
Wahaca's eighr
branches, although
we'll never be
fans of its
no-reservations
policy.

PU RN ELL'S "';!-'
55 Cornwall Street, Birmingham B3 2DH
(purnellsrestaurant.com; 0121 212 9799)
Yummie Brummie G lynn Purnell is a serious chef with a
sense of humour. His tasting menu delivers thrilling flavour
combinations using Great British ingredients - like haddock
and eggs with cornflakes and curry oil - prepared with
sophistication and served in a comfortable, modern space.
Staff are attentive yet unobtrusive, under the command
of heartthrob manager Jean-Benoir Burloux. 0000

THE

'1if GARDENER'S
1 Royal Terrace Gardens,
Edinburgh EH7 SOX (thegardeners
cottage.co; 0131 5581221)
The Royal Terrace Gardens'
o riginal gard ener's cottage
had been derelict for ages
buc lase year dynamic duo
Ed Murray and Dale
Mailley brought it back
ro life. There is now a
lovely dining room, well
proportioned and full of
lighc, with shared refectory
tables and nice old
silverware. T he food is
imaginative and the herbs
are grown outside the door.
The only caveat is char it
does gee very cramped.

LOCKWOODS
83 North Street, Ripon, North
Yorkshire HG4 lDP (lockwoods
restaurant.co.uk; 01765 607555)
A relaxed and well-run biscro
wich work by local anises on
che walls, offering
accomplished and
occasionally even rather
exocic food in a part of
the world where good
independent restaurants
are still chin on che ground.
Among many greac dishes are
a retro baked camemben wich
cornicho ns, and Moroccan
chickpea stew with Toulouse
sausage. Lockwoods also does
fab cocktails, including a gingersnap martini with pear vodka,
amarecto and allspice. And a
cracking Sunday lunch. 000

"li'Mle MANOR A"f


WES1"0MON-THEGR'.EEN

_t: LHH

W~'
24-26 Suffolk Road,
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
GLSO 2AQ (lechampignon
sauvage.co.uk; 01242 573449)
T he cooking ac chis rescauranc
in Chelcenham's preccy
Mompellier area is excraordinary
and the atmosphere calm and
stately. Yes, it's fine d ining, so
there's foam and translucent
cubes, buc whac real ly stands
out is the flavours - clean, fresh,
beautifully British. An amuse
of creamed horseradish and
poached pear is both sweet and
sharp; ox cheek is earthy, dense
meat w ith the most del icate
vegetables. A delight.

CAFE 21'

W1

Trinity Gardens, Quayside,


Newcastle upon Tyne
NEl 2HH (cafetwentyone.co.uk;
0191 222 0755)
Cafe 2 1 has been a fixture on
Newcastle's food scene for
nearly 20 years; from M ichelinstar dining to chichi restaurant
ro roday's incarnation as a
smart, sassy bistro where finally - ic seems happy in its
skin. The kitchen appears to
be having a good time too,
sending out grilled halibut on
cruilled lentils, oysters with
spicy pork sausages and good
old-fashioned jugged hare.
Not outrageous, not posh, just
enjoying what it does. 000

West End, Northleach, Gloucestershire GL54 3EZ


(cotswoldswheatsheaf.com; 01451 860244)
We heart this gascropub with rooms. The food is divine and
dependable: Jerusalem artichoke soup as smooth as velvet and
the fluffiest rwice-baked cheddar souille. T he Bloody Marys are
legendary and there are even pigs' ears for four-legged friends. But do
book well in advance - weekend cables go as fasc as Mo Farah.

THE MANOR AT
WESTON-ONTHE-GREEN' Ll '
Near Bicester, Oxfordshire
OX25 3QL (themanorweston.
com; 01869 350621)
Re-count the plump sheep in
the paddock afi:er d inner at this
recently revamped Tudor manor
house - the chef is a champion
ofl ocal produce, and they must
tempt him sorely. A confident
kitchen sends out dishes like
seasonal fungi risotto and salmon
w ith b raised baby gem. There
are homemade ice creams, British
cheeses and dainty chocolates.
Oh, and a helipad, should the
drive seem onerous. 000

(~

The Balmoral, 1 Princes Street,


Edinburgh EH2 2EQ (restaurant
numberone.com; 0131 557 6727)
After years away, we returned
to this Michelin-scarred d ining
room in Rocco Forte's Balmoral
Hotel, where the doorman
wears full Highland regalia,
and absolutely loved it. T he
cooking is by turns eclectic and
refined - totally righ t in its
environment, the very best of
Scotland. The only duff noce is
the armchairs in the bar, clearly
designed by a torturer. Bue
when it comes co restaurants,
addresses don't come better
than chis one.

LE MANOIR f:

q;p

Church Road, Great Milton,


Oxfordshire OX44 7PD
(manoir.com; 01844 278 881)
Because standards are never
compromised and decor is up
to date if not ahead of the
gam e (a frayed cushion? Tired
wallpaper? Not here), this
Oxfordshire evergreen has stayed
young and sexy (spend a night
in the Lace suite - that's sexy).
And chef Gary Jones's five-, six-,
seven- and nine-course tasting
menus take you on a journey
you will not forget.

SIMON RADLEY AT THE CHESTER GROSVENOR $


Eastgate, Chester CHI lLT (chestergrosvenor.com; 01244 324024)
lc's held its Michelin scar fo r more than 20 years, and no wonder. Staff are very twinkly,
unstuffily delivering impeccable service. The room is cosy and elegantly relaxed , as evidenced by
the merry but well-behaved diners, some very big C heshire cheeses among them. The H ereford ,
a rib of beef so tender you could almost eat it with a spoon, particularly stood out, as did the
caleggio on open ravioli, and che vegetarian casting menu is - believe ic or nor - d eleccable. The
bread care is also a treat, including a five-days-in-the-making sourdough and mouth watering
mashed -potato-and-beer bread. 00000

PAUL AINSWORTH
AT NUMBER 6
6 Middle Street, Padstow,
Cornwall PL28 8AP (number6in
padstow.co.uk; 01841 532093)
Recently awarded a longoverdue Michelin star,
Ainsworth and his team are
on a roll and clearly revelling
in it. With dishes such as
blowtorched mackerel fram ed
with edible fl owers, and lobster
ravioli so magnificent you want
to have another portion for
pudd ing, they b rilliantly pull
off an edible adventure well
worth travelling for. 000

l Paston Place, Brighton BN2 lHA (samsofbrighton.co.uk; 01273 676222)


Modern Brit at its m ost delish, this, in a secret little side street
staggering down to the sea. Noc char you'd cell by the room - a bit
cutesy, perhaps. But the incongruity between that and the quiet wow
of che cooking is just pare of Sam's charm . W hether from land o r sea,
all is local and seasonal: roast rabbit saddle scuffed with black pudding,
say, followed by a gorgeous confit guinea fowl. And to finish ? Creamy,
campy brandy Alexanders (very Brighton, char). Service is sweet,
d iscreet. The place for a long and ever-so-sligh tly louche lunch .

THE PIG' ~ '


Beaulieu Road, Brockenhurst,
Hampshire 5042 7QL
(thepighotel.com; 01590 622354)
'Oink oink,' we say, for a place
char has quickly escablished itself
as a locavore leader. Virtually all
of its produce comes from within
a 25-mile radius. T hat migh t
mean Fluffett's Farm duck egg
and sale-beef hash for breakfast,
or New Fo rest pheasant breast
and confic leg for lunch, bur
w hatever you ear in the lively
conservatory, ic hits che spot.
T here's a Pig in Southampton,
an d later this year the Pig on the
Beach will open ac Scudland
Bay in D o rset too. 000

~
l The Avenue, Spinningfields,
Manchester M3 3AP (australasia.
uk.com; 0161 831 0288)
Kick back with a Porn Star (it's
a cocktail) ac Australasia. T he
shabby-urban-chic d ecor wich
art deco elements may sound
complicated bur somehow
works, and the Asian/ Pacific
Rim menu - black cod, pepper
salt beef, smoked-eel sushi reads more LA than Mane.
This is where the Ki llers ace
when they last played
M anchester, and Joe H are,
who m we all adore,
ad o res che p lace.

The Coopers Inn, Station Road, Newcastle Emlyn, Carmarthenshire


SA38 9BX (no website; 01239 710588)
Frogs' legs in d eepest, Welshest Wales? Surely nor. Newcastle Emlyn
is not the most obvious location for an ambitious young French chef
to set up shop. But Ludo Dieumegard is winning over sceptical locals
softly-softly, smuggling a deep-fried snail in alongside the wild-garlic
soup. There's lots of slow cooking and the sticky toffee pudding,
with salty Halen Mon sauce, makes our all-time STP top 10.

MINT AND
MUSTARD ~
134 Whitchurch Road, Cardiff
CF14 3LZ (mintandmustard.com;
02920 620333)
At Mint and Mustard, the
jewel in Whitchurch Road's
rather scruffy crown, murals
of extravagantly mustachioed
Bollywood actors gaze
moodily down on the packed,
good-time crowd. We can't
overstate how superb this food
is: Bombay chaat like little
crispy space hoppers; fig and
fresh coriander naan, hot
from the tandoor. It's a blast,
it's a buzz, it's knock-yourblock-off brillianc. 00

THE SIR CHARLES


NAPIER
Sprigg's Alley, Chinner,
Oxfordshire OX39 4BX (sircharles
napier.co.uk; 01494 483011)
This place has been around
for yonks (as have some of
the clientele) but owner
Julie Griffiths and chef Chris
Godfrey won their first
Michelin star in 20 11. Lunch
could be double-baked
smoked haddock and cheddar
souffie or braised ox cheek,
with salted caramel and
honeycomb
nibbles to
follow.All
delicious.

THE D1.....i1
ATWI-

r.. QOOM

$
Easton Grey, Malmesbury,
Wiltshire SN16 ORB (whatley
manor.com; 01666 822888)
A country house of Cotswold
stone, with formal gardens
and grassland leading to the
river. In the rwo-Michelin-star

000
THE
3-4 Beacon Terrace, Torquay,
Devon TQl 2BH (elephant
restaurant.co.uk; 01803 200044)
You might already know chef
patron Simon Hulstone from
BBC One's Saturday Kitchen.
His pretty townhouse
restaurant, on a hilly terrace
above the harbour, is
split into ground-floor
brasserie and firstfloor posh option the
Room (open only in spring/
summer). We especially love
the former, where moules
marinieres fo llowed by
tagliatelle with crab make
I
a fin e lunch.

HUM PH RY'S '"~;i:-'


Stoke Park, Park Road, Stoke
Poges, Buckinghamshire
SL2 4PG (stokepark.com;
01753 717172)
Stoke Park, 40 minutes from
H yde Park Corner on a good
day, is an architectural sockin-the-eye, an 18th- (and part14th) century pile with
attitude. Humphry's rescauranc
- with its glorious floor-coceiling windows and great vases
of lilies and o rchids - muse be
seen co be believed, but the
biggest surprise is the food. A
classic cournedos of beef and a
cannon oflamb were rwo of the
best d ishes we've eaten in the
past 12 months. 0000

THE OLDE BELL~


Hurley, Berkshire SL6 5LX
(theoldebell.co.uk; 01628
825881)
Olde indeed - some parts of
the Bell dace from che 12th
century - but the rooms and
restaurant have recently been
renovated by designer Ilse
Crawford, so it's smart and
well rended , Berkshire-style.
Sunday lunch is a no n-stop
show - busy-busy, everyone
hale and hearty and goodlooking child ren all over the
place. The lovely garden
provides nearly half of all th e
fruit, herbs and vegetables
and in summer there's an
outdoor barbecue. 000

Pavilion Buildings, Rock Road,


Rock, Cornwall PL27 6JS
(thediningroomrock.co.uk;
01208 862622)
With che old guard somewhat
standing still, new blood is
caking the Cornish helm. The
Din ing Room, so unassuming
from che outside, surpasses
every expectation. The head
chef is a master at balancing
lip-smacking creativity with
classic combinations. Mackerel
cartare and Tamar Valley
venison are particularly
good choices and che local
Camel Valley wine is so
good you want co retire early
and move to the area.

ALLIUM BRASSERIE
Abbey Hotel, North Parade,
Bath BAl lLF (abbeyhotelbath.
co.uk; 0122S 809467)
Chris Staines, previously head
chef ac (now defunct) Foliage
at Mandarin Oriental H yde
Park, has surfaced at the
Abbey. In spire of irs name,
Allium is not really a brasserie
ar all. It's more a modern
bistro, with contemporary art
and a friendly vibe, although
what's on the plate is highly
sophisticated. Quail glazed
in chilli caramel and pan-fried
Cornish bream with salsa
verde and lemon curd are
rwo first-class dishes we
en joyed here. 0000

THE

FEATHERS ~

Market Street, Woodstock, Oxfordshire OX20 lSX (feathers.co.uk; 01993 812291)


The Feathers has always been a bit of a hoot, ever since Gordon Campbell Gray bought ic and
gave it a makeover in the early Eighties - though it's lon g gone from his stable. In the three small
dining rooms, service is well-intentioned, if not entirely polished (waiter and sommelier together
putting o n a somewhat Feyd eau-esque show). Bue the food's the thing- silky mushroom velouce,
Evenlode wood pigeon with quince and Perigord truffles, incredibly flavour-packed Longhorn
beef. Divine. There's also a seven-course menu based around gin - the Feathers has its own
dedicated gin bar. Told you it was fun! 0000

JEREMY'S
Borde Hill, Balcombe Road,
Haywards Heath, West Sussex
RH16 lXP (jeremysrestaurant.
co.uk; 01444 441102)
Chef Jeremy Ashpool
uses the best local
ingredien ts and smokes,
cures and cooks chem wich
love for h is loyal guests. The
home-smoked mackerel is
rop-nocch and local wood
pigeon with pearl barley tastes
nuccy and deliciously rustic.
Save room fo r pudding and
homemade marshmallow
petits fo urs.

MIDSUMMER
HOUSE
Midsummer Common,
Cambridge CB4 lHA
(midsummerhouse.co.uk;
01223 369299)
A prerry Victorian villa on rhe
banks of rhe Cam is where
Daniel C liffo rd has held rwo
Michelin stars since 2005. His
Taste of M idsummer m enu is
an 1 I-course gastronomic
marathon of exquisitely
p resented d ishes (celery
bavarois, goat-cheese
cigarillo) , and the
accompanying flight
of seven wines will
take you well out of
your comfort zone in a good way,
that is. 0000

~ASTLE

Church Road, Churchill, Oxfordshire OX7 6NJ


{thechequerschurchill.com; 01608 6S9393)
Two knockout country restaurants within 15 miles of each ocher?
'Impossible!' you say. Bue chat clever, ch arming duo Georgina and
Sam Pearman ofWheacsheaflnn fame have opened buzzy, casual
C hequers. le headlines straigh tforward British food with a few
original flourishes: chicken, mush room and tarrago n pie you'll trade
your grand mother for and an eyewateringly piquant marmalade
pudding. The hottest ticket in the Cotswolds right now.

BRASSERIE DE LUXE
The Caledonian, Princes Street, Edinburgh EHl 2AB
(galvinrestaurants.com; 0131 222 8988)
Run by the clever Galvin b rothers, chis charming, blueand-whi ce-ciled brasserie in the lavishly restored Cally
looks as if it has been here for ever. All the staples are
present - Scottish shellfish, carcares, confic d e canard and
fantastic chips. O n the hotel 's first floor, mean while, che
'fine-dining' Po mpadour has reopened under Jeff Galvin's
baron and veritably d rips Louis XV. 00/0000

33-3S Castle Terrace, Edinburgh


EHl 2EL (castleterrace
restaurant.com; 0131 2291222)
Castle Terrace is relatively new
on che Edinburgh scene (ic
opened in 20 I 0) but alread y
boasts a M ichelin scar. C hefowner Dominic Jack has worked
at some of the greats, like
Taillevent and LArpege in Paris,
and combines phenomenal
technical skill with an u nerring
aesthetic. Standout d ishes
include spelt risotto and scuffed
saddle oflnverurie lamb ala
rognonnade (with its kidneys)
but, frankly, everything here
sparkles. And we love the room,
with its bustle and latter-day
Scottish pizzazz.

38 High Street, Bristol BS9 3DZ (casamiarestaurant.co.uk; 0117 959 2884)


Owned and run by rhe Sanchez-Iglesias family in rhe upscale Westbury
neighbourhood, Casamia is a 14-course culinary experience char
stares the moment you walk through the door. Seasonal cooking
dictates the menu but also inspires the surroundings - large snowy
pictures and the smell of woodsmoke infused wirh pine. Chefs
serve many of the dishes and 'interact' with guests - all part of an
extraordinary journey, heavily laced with liquid nitrogen.

THE PEAT INN ~ '


Peat Inn, By Cupar, Fife
KY15 5LH (thepeatinn.co.uk;
01334 840206)
Taken over in 2006 by Geoffrey
and Katherine Smeddle, chis
Michelin one-star restaurant
with rooms has been carefully
transformed. The cooking is
at home with meat and game,
using the finest local and
seasonal produce, and bursts
with o riginality. A recent
highlight was a melting
slow-braised daube of
beef. T his is now one
of the rap half-dozen
places ro eat in
Scotland. 0000

E
85 Old Hunstanton Road, Old
Hunstanton, Norfolk PE36 6HZ
(theneptune.co.uk; 01485 532122)
Ser in an ivy-clad 18rh-century
coaching inn, the Neptune is
the right kind of Norfolk nicely countri fied, not roo
rah-rah, with lots of!ocals
and just a smarcering of
Londoners. The bar is so cosy
it's rough ro haul yourself off
the sofa, but haul you must,
as fis h and shellfish landed
at Brancaster await, not
ro mention pork,
lamb, game and
fruit and veg from
Norfolk producers.

SEASONS AT THE FOUR SEASONS ~


Chalky Lane, Dogmersfield, Hampshire RG27 STD
(fourseasons.com; 01252 853000)
Under rhe rolling pin of chef Cyrille Pannier, Seasons has introduced a
terrific fish supper on Fridays, but if you're greedy like us, rhe
Sunday farmers' market lunch is the one ro go for - groaning tables
of treats such as smoked sal mon, salads, succulent roasrs, exceptional
pudd ings and everything in between. Laverstoke Park Farm is che
horel's go-to larder, with !ors of organic/biodynamic fare. 0000

RESTAURANT

AW
St Enodoc Hotel, Rock,
Cornwall PL27 6LA (nathanoutlaw.com; 01208 862737)
T hough he now has a London
outpost, you can't help feeling
that rugged Nate's heart
belongs in Cornwall. T he
cooking at this rascing-menuonly fine-diner is essentially
fish-based, super-rich and
indulgent. The wine list forgive the pun - casts a wide
net, from unusual bins such as
a late-harvest gewiirtztraminer
from the Sha' al vineyard
in Galilee co local Camel
Valley wines.

71 East Street, Brighton


BNl lHQ (terreaterre.co.uk;
01273 729051)
As one of the UK's longescsranding vegetarian restaurants,
this Brighton icon still excites
lo ng-standing veggies and
m eat lovers alike. The tonguetwister-named d ishes such as
Better Batter and Lemony
Yemeni Relish (halloumi 'n'
chips to you) and Come Pine
with Me (a mushroom-copped
ri:isti) bring fresh flavours to
old favourites. You should
leave full and
inspired - not
craving a
burger.

THE PUREFOY
ARMS
Preston Candover, Hampshire
RG25 2EJ (thepurefoyarms.
co.uk; 01256 389777)
Half Spanish and not afraid
to show it, chef Andres
Alemany is putting the hola!
into H ampshire. His pub
grub makes fo r an appealing
menu: gambas next to pork
crackling, blood orange salad
below smoked venison, and
some decent Spanish plank
to go wirh your rapas. Sharing
is an obvious rheme, with
roasrs for four and tares
for rwo coming highly
recommended. Si senor! 00

TWO HH LAD

~,
.
652-654 Argyle Street, Glasgow
G3 8UF (twofatladiesrestaurant.
com; 0141 221 8188)
An oasis of refin ement in
a former coaching inn
in (it must be said) an
unprepossessing location near
G lasgow's conference centres.
The menu is traditional
Sconish wich French and
Italian influences, great fis h
and other produce of the
region, but (mercifully) not a
haggis in sight. Worth a visit
for its flash-fri ed West Coast
scallops and dynamite
puddings alone.

1
I

BUXHALL COACH HOUSE


RESTAURANT
Buxhall Vale, Stowmarket, Suffolk IP14 3DH
(honortownsend.com; 01449 736032)
Situated in glorious Suffolk parkland runn ing down co
the River Rat, this is a very classy mother-and-daughter
double act from mum Sarah Townsend (front of house)
and daughter Honor (chef). Both had years of experience
looking after guests at their restaurant in U mbria before
corning back home to Suffolk. Most of che produce is
locally sourced, bread is homemade and a typical lunch
might be scallops with pea puree and pancecca followed by
guinea fowl, with a wonderful chocolate cake for pudding.
A very bella cucina in a heavenly setting, in a pare of
England where good restaurants are still the exception
rather than the rule. 0000

ANDREW FAIRLIE
AT GLENEAGLES ~
The Gleneagles Hotel,
Auchterarder, Perthshire PH3 INF
(andrewfairlie.co.uk; OU64 662231)
T his Michelin two-scar at
G leneagles is no Caledonian
tartan cliche - it's more like
earing in a west London gallery
featuring ex hibitions themed
in chocolate, chestnut and
strawberry. Each dish, from the
amuse co the breathtaking
sorbets, is a work of art. The
wine list is expensive and
extensive as you might expect,
with a terrific lady sommelier
from the Czech Republic
curating it. 00000

---------

~-~--------~~-

VETIVER ~

zw

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Chewton Glen, New Milton,


Hampshire BH25 6QS
(vetiverchewtonglen.com;
01425 275341)
T he old Marryat restaurant at
Chewton Glen has morphed
into Vetiver - and a lovelier,
more vibrant country-house
hotel restaurant you'd be
hard-pressed co find. H ead
chefAndrew d u Bourg's
m enu includes comfort
food with original twists,
and much of the produce
comes straight from
Chewton's own kitchen
garden. 000

9 Fore Street, Evershot, Dorset


DT2 OJR (summerlodgehotel.
co.uk; 01935 482000)
This is one of the most
undersung restaurants in the
South West, and wh y it isn't
brimming with Michelin scars,
heaven and Michelin only
know. In che prertiesc of
seccings - a Georgian listed
house built by che 2nd Earl of
Ilchescer - long-rime chef
Steve Tieman cooks Lyme Bay
scallops, Dorset crab and
local wood pigeon, displaying
confidence bur also a great
lightness of touch.

S2
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Llanddewi Skirrid, Abergavenny,


Monmouthshire NP7 8AW
(thewalnuttreeinn.com;
01873 852797)
In Monrnourhshire, good
restaurants are springing up
like fie ld mushrooms, but the
Walnut Tree is still the best.
Shaun Hill - who put Ludlow
on the foodie map - is doing
the sam e for Abergavenny.
Food is classic with a bir of
a spin: the tenderest veal
sweetbreads come with a
pig's-head cromesqui (think
posh McNugget); Gloucester
O ld Spot ribs cosy up to crispy
em panadillas. No foams or
smears, no blobs of whoknows-what. Ic's grown-up,
fuss-free and fabulous.

THE HAND &


FLOWERS CV'
126 West Street, Marlow,
Buckinghamshire SL7 2BP
(thehandandflowers.co.uk;
01628 482277)
The two-Michelin-scar Hand
& Flowers is the O livia de
Havilland of restaurants - a
little plain on the looks front
bur a huge star nevertheless.
Thames Valley girls and French
tourists sit cheek-by-jowl with
white-haired grannies, bur
the food's the thing: smoked
haddock o melette with
parmesan, Cotswold venison,
Wilcshire pork and chefpatron
Tom Kerridge's sig nature
slow-cooked duck breast,
served with his famous
cyli ndrical chips. 0000

BAYSWATER
32 Angelus

36 Roka

39 The Shed

49 Wahaca

33 Petersham Nurseries Cafe

25 Bentley's

41

42 Shiori

ISLINGTON

35 Portal

EY

34 John Salt

35 Larde

40 Naamyaa Cafe

47 El Pirata Detapas

31 Cocomaya

CLERKENWELL
15

28 Newman Street Tavern

33 The Riding House Cafe

10 Le Cafe Anglais

Bistrot Bruno Loubet

NORTH

28 Mall Tavern

39 Mazi

!..RK

Royal China

SOUTH
KENSINGTON

18 11 Park Walk

28 The Admiral Codrington

SHOREDITCH

Bibendum

48 Coya

31 The Diamond Jubilee

20 Apero

Tea Salon

45 Bombay Brasserie

42 Novikov Asian

27 Chicken Shop

45 Dishoom

36 Eight Over Eight

42 Brompton Asian Brasserie

19 Novikov Italian

46 Dirty Burger

32 Galvin La Chapelle

37 Eighty- Six

15 Cassis Bistro

31 The Ritz

27 Tramshed

39 Gallery Mess

39 L'Et ranger

8 The Ritz Restaurant

18

Pizza East

KING'S CROSS

10 Medlar

The Wolseley

47 Camino Cruz del Rey

32 Club Gascon

9 Restaurant Gordon Ramsay

39 Caravan

34 Polpo Smithfield

17 Sophie's Steakhouse

11 The Gilbert Scott

14 Stjohn

49 Shrimpy's

BALHAM

PRIMROSE HILL

45 Amaya

13 Ametsa with Arzak

CHISWICK

BOROUGH
GREE"!

20 Del Mercato

34 Braw n

33 Elliot's

13 Viajante

47 Jose/Pizarro

CANARY WHARF

14

Roast

37 Boisdale Canary Wharf

18

Zucca

24 Angler

27 Wishbone

41

24 Bentley's at Harrods

L'Anima

27 Barbecoa

18

31

15 Chabrot Bistrot d 'Amis

Koobla

17 The Palm

41

EARLS COURT

17 Rib Room at the

13 Dinner by Heston

15 Garnier
44 Potli

20 The River Cafe

KENSl=IL GREEN

4 Koffmann's

19 Zafferano

8 Marcus Wareing at

BLOOMSBURY
33 Cafe Le Cordon Bleu

14 Savoy Grill

10 Launceston Place

17 STK

10

17 Hawksmoor
Guildhall
41

HKK

41 MinJiang

The Delaunay

FITZROVIA

MrChow

37 Nozomi
25 Outlaw's at t he Capital

19 Oval Restaurant at
the Wellesley
42 Pan Chai at Harrods

ll Ristorante at the Bulgari

Skylon

18 Moreno

47 Barrica

19

WANDSWORTH

38 Ran da

25 Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

36 Zuma

4 Chez Bruce

28 The Prince o f Wales

16 New Street Grill

WEST

14 Paternoster

-ID

10 Kitchen W8

24 Fish Market

the Berkeley

38 Mari Vanna
41

TON
43 Babylon

43 Le Pont de la Tour

Chisou

28 The Thomas Cubitt

CLAPHAM

11 Coq d'Argent

The Capital Hotel

Blumenthal

Carlton Tower

!SMITH

Franco Manca

43 Duck & Waffle

37 Buddha- Bar

41 Mango Tree

28 Parlour

18

4 Bar Boulud

31 The Cadogan

l/AY
43 River Quarter Kitchen

Instruction

37 Boisdale of Belgravia

39 Harrison's

32 L'Absinthe

EAST

RIDGE=

10 Tom Aikens

13 Hedone

HOLBORN
36 Wabi

39 Tom's Kitch en

SOUTH

1-tlLL
27 Chocks

CENTRAL

Chophouse

36 Sushinho

20 Riva

43 Sushisamba

10

Sonny's Kit chen

NOTTING HILL

49 Bubbledogs

MARYLEBONE &
MARBLE ARCH
ll Barette

44 Chakra

13 Dabbous

38 Colchis

47 Fino

19

49 Electric Diner

40 Hakka san

34 Briciole

24 Geales

47 lberica

34 La Fromagerie

38 Granger & Co

13 Kitchen Table

15

48 Lima

28 The Grazing Goat

The Ledbury

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe

rn

"'w
"'Qz
(.')

.;;

~
>"';::j::>

46 Byron
44 Carom
48 Ceviche

31

Nobu Berkeley Street

16 Flat Iron
32 Gauthier Soho

The Parlour at Sketch

14

Hix

33 Heal's Quarter Cafe

La Petite Maison

31

Maison Bertaux

20 Locanda Locatelli

Pollen Street Social

17

Mash

16 The Grill at the Montcalm

46 Meat Liquor

42 Princess Garden of

39 The Montagu Restaurant


16 Reform Social & Grill
32 Roux at the Landau
44 Trishna

Mayfair
19

Sartoria
Scott's

42 Shogun

48 Zoilo

8 The Square

R
4 34
8 Alyn Williams at
the Westbury
18 Amaranto
10 Aurelia
19 Babbo
20 Banca
4 Bellamy's

44 Tamarind
42 Umu
11 Wild Honey

PARK LANE
8 Alain Ducasse at
t he Dorchester
40 China Tang

36 No bu

13 Bo London

20 Theo Randall

lS Brasserie Chavot
4 Cecconi's

37 Brasserie Zedel
27 Clockjack Oven

47 Donostia

3S Vinoteca Soho

7 Le Caprice
14 Green's Restaurant
9 Seven Park Place

the Connaught

at Sketch
38 Momo

Simon Radley at the

at Gleneagles
S3 Brasserie de Luxe

CORNWALL

at the Goring

S2 The Dining Room

4S Quilon

Sl

54 Restaurant Nathan Outlaw

so
so

The Gardener's Cottage


Number One

54 The Peat Inn


SS Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery

S2 The Elephant

DORSET

SS Buxhall Coach House

SS Summer Lodge

Restaurant

WALES

7 The Ivy
25 J Sheekey

54 The Neptune

47 Barrafina

S3 Castle Terrace

Paul Ainsworth at Number 6

SLOANE SQUARE

37 Tonteria

SCOTLAND

Chester Grosvenor

19 Gustoso

46 Meat Market
35 Opera Tavern
20 Orso

Lockwoods

SS Andrew Fairlie

Sl Australasia

33 Cuisine de Bar

RKSHIRE

S3 M idsummer House
Sl

WEST END &


COVENT GARDEN

Cafe 21

S2 Ludo's

so

CAMBRIDGE

37 Heliot at the Hippodrome

9 Hix Mayfair
38 Hush
9 Lecture Room & Library

SS The Hand & Flowers

so

S2 Humphry's

Cafe Royal
3S Le Cercle
lS Colbert

NEWCASTLE
RE

14 The Dining Room

3S Green Man & French Hom

Hakkasan Mayfair

SS Vetiver

7 Wiltons

33 Ten Room at the

8 Helene Darroze at

54 Seasons at the Four Seasons

BRISTOL
54 Casamia

& Oyster Bar

by Cipriani
8 Le Gavroche
9 The Greenhouse

Purnell's

ST JAMES'S

42 Shoryu Ramen

24 Hawksmoor Air Street

Sl The Pig
54 The Purefoy Arms

so

2S Wright Brothers Soho


40 Yauatcha

Le Champignon Sauvage
The Wheatsheaf Inn

BATH
S3 Allium Brasserie

48 Spun ti no

Downtown Mayfair
The Gallery at Sketch

Social Eating House

lS Balthazar
49 Cabana
32 Clos Maggiore

C London

14 Corrigan's Mayfair

S2 The Olde Bell

11 QuoVadis

17 Cut
43 Galvin at Windows

4S Ben ares

46 Burger & Lobster

27 Pitt Cue Co

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

so
so

S2 The Fat Duck

S2 Mint and Mustard

NORFOLK

SS The Walnut Tree


~[

53 The Chequers

53 Jeremy's Restaurant
51 Sam's of Brighton

aTerre

S3 The Feathers
Sl Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons

54 Terre

34 Polpo Covent Garden


46 Shake Shack

so

52 The Dining Room at

18 Bocca di Lupo

The Manor

52 The Sir Charles Napier

48 La Bodega Negra

27 Blue Boar Smokehouse

40 Bone Daddies

4S Cinnamon Club

WILTSHIRE
Whatley Manor

18
4
32
28
8
8
18
4S
13
32
24
18
20
10
19
43
lS
20
4
27
19
47
47
4
4S
25
24
7
lS
27

11 Park Walk 11 Park Walk, SWlO OAJ (020 73S2 3449)


34 34 Grosvenor Square, WIK 2HD (020 33SO 3434)
L'Absinthe 40 Chalcot Road, NWl BLS (020 7483 4848)

13
18
48
37
37
4S
40
2S
15
37
34
34
42
49
37
46
46
S
49
31
10
33
47
31
7
39
44
JS
4
3S
48
lS

Bo London 4 Mill Street, WlS 2AZ (020 7493 3886)


Bacca di Lupo 12 Archer Street. WlD 7BB (020 7734 2223)

44
4
27
40
40
27
45
27
32
32
31
15
38
11
14
48
33
17
13
20
7
31

The Admiral Codrington 17 Mossop Street, SW3 2LY (020 7581 OOOS)
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester S3 Park Lane. WlK lQA (020 7629 8866)
Alyn Williams at the Westbury 37 Conduit Street. WlS 2YF (020 7078 9S79)
Amaranto Four Seasons, Hamilton Place. WlJ 7DR (020 7499 0888)
Amaya Motcomb Street, SWJX 8JT (020 7823 1166}
Ametsa with Arzak Instruction Halkin Hotel, Halkin Street, SWlX 7DJ (020 73331234)
Angelus 4 Bathurst Street. W2 2SD (020 7402 0083)
Angler 3 South Place. EC2M 2AF (020 321S 1260)
L'Anima l Snowden Street, EC2A 2DQ (020 7422 7000)
Apero 2 Harrington Road, SW7 3ER (020 7S9l 4410)
Aurelia H--14 Cork Street. WIS 3NS (020 7409 1370)
Babbo 39 Albemarle Street, WlS 4JQ (020 7S914410)

14
l3

46
4S
47
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Babylon The Roof Gardens. 99 Kensington High Street. WB SSA (020 7368 3993)
Balthazar 4--6 Russell Street. WC2B SHZ (020 3301 llSS)
Banca 30 North Aud ley Street, WIK 6ZF (020 7647 2S2S)
Bar Boulud Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SWlX 7LA (020 7201 3899)
Barbecoa 20 New Change Passage, EC4M 9AG (020 300S 8SSS)
11Baretto 43 Blandford Street , WlU 7HF (020 7486 7340)
Barrafina 54 Frith Street, WlD 4SL (020 7813 8016)
Barrica 62 Goodge Street, WlT 4NE (020 7436 9448}
Bellamy's 18 Bruton Place. WlJ 6LY (020 7491 2727)
Benares 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, WlJ 6BS {020 7629 8886)
Bentley's 11--15 Swallow Street. WlB 4DG (020 7734 4756)
Bentley's Sea Grill Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, SWlX 7XL (02077301234)
Bibendum Michelin House. 81 Fulham Road, SW3 6RD (020 7481 S817)
Bistrot Bruno Loubet The Zener. 86-88 Clerkenwell Road. EClM SRJ (020 7324 44SS)
Blue Boar Smokehouse Intercontinental Westminster, 22- 28 Broadway. SWlH 9JS
(020 3301 8080)

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La Bodega Negra 9 Old Compton Street. WlD SJF (020 77S8 4100)
Boisdale Canary Wharf Cabot Square. Canary Wharf. E14 4QT (020 771S 5818)
Boisdale of Belgravia JS Ecclest on Street. SWlW 9LX (020 7730 6922}
Bombay Brasserie Courtfield Road, SW7 4QH (020 7370 4040)
Bone Daddies 31 Peter Street, Wlf OAR (020 7287 8S8l)
Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack 21a Foley Street. WlW 6DS (020 7436 0921)
Brasserie Chavot Westbury Hotel. 41 Conduit Street, WlS 2YF (020 7078 9577)
Brasserie Zedel 20 Sherwood Street, WlF 7ED (020 7734 4888)
Brawn 49 Columbia Road. E2 7RG (020 7729 S962)
Briciole 20 Homer Street, WlH 4NA (020 7723 0040)

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Brampton Asian Brasserie 223- 22S Brompton Road, SW3 2EJ (020 7225 2107)
Bubbledogs 70 Charlorte Street, WlT 4QG (020 7637 7770)
Buddha-Bar London 14S Knightsbridge. SWlX 7PA (020 3667 S222)
Burger & Lobster 29 Clarges Street, WlJ 7EF (020 7409 1699)
Byron 300 King's Road, SW3 SUH (020 73S2 6040)
C London 2}--25 Davies Street, WlK 3DE (020 7399 0500)
Cabana 7 Central St Giles Piazza, St Giles High Street, WC2H BAD (020 7632 9630)

The Cadogan 7S Sloane Street. SWlX 9SG (020 723S 7141)


Le Cafe Anglais 8 Porchester Gardens, W2 4DB (020 72211415)
Cafe Le Cordon Bleu JS Bloomsbury Square, WCJA 2LS (020 7400 3900)

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Camino Cruz del Rey 3 Varnishers Yard, Nl 9FD (020 78417331)


The Capital Hotel 22- 24 Basil Street, SW3 1AT (020 7S89 5171)
Le Caprice Arlington House. Arlington Street, SWlA lRJ (020 7629 2239)
Caravan l Granary Square. off Goods Way. NlC 4AA (020 71017661)
Carom 100 Wardour Street, WlFOTN (020 7314 4002)
Cassis Bistro 232- 236 Brompton Road, SW3 2BB (020 75811101)
Cecconi's Sa Burlington Gardens, WIS 3EP (020 7434 lSOO)
Le Cercle 1Wilbraham Place, SWJX 9AE (020 7901 9999)
Ceviche 17 Frith Street, WlD 4RG (020 7292 2040)
Chabrot Bistrot d'Amis 9 Knightsbridge Green. SWlX7QL (020 722S 2238)

Chakra lS7-lS9 Notting Hill Gate, Wll 3LF (020 7229 211S)
Chez Bruce 2 Bellevue Road, SW17 7EG (020 8672 0114)
Chicken Shop 79 Highgate Road. NWS lTL (020 3310 2020)
China Tang Dorchester Hotel. Park Lane. WlK lQA (020 7629 9988)
Chisou 31 Beauchamp Place, SW3 lNU (020 31SS OOOS}
Chooks 43 The Broadway, Muswell Hill, NlO 3HA (020 8444 S383)
Cinnamon Club 30--32 Great Smith Street , SWlP 3BU (020 7222 2SSS)
Clockjack Oven 14 Denman Street, WlD 7HJ (020 7287 Slll)
Clos Maggiore 33 King Street, WC2E BJD (020 7379 9696)
Club Gascon S7 West Smit hfield, EClA 9DS (020 7600 6144)
Cocomaya 12 Connaught Street, W2 2AF (020 7706 2883)
Colbert SO-S2 Sloane Square, SWlW SAX(020 7730 2804)
Colchis 39 Chepstow Place, W2 4TS (020 7221 7620)
Coq d'Argent l Poultry, EC2R BEJ (020 739S SOOO)
Corrigan's Mayfair 28 Upper Grosvenor Street. WIK 7EH (020 7499 9943)
Coya 118 Piccadilly, WlJ 7NW (020 7042 7118)
Cuisine de Bar 39 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2TB (020 3263 6019}
Cut 4S Park Lane, WlK JPN (020 7317 6SS2)
Dabbous 39 Whitfield Street. WlT 2SF (020 7323 1544)
Del Mercato Park Street. SEl 9AD (020 7407 36Sl)
The Delaunay S5 Aldwych. WC2B 4BB (020 7499 8S58)
The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon Fortnum & Mason. 181 Piccadilly, WlA lER

(084S 602 5694)


The Dining Room at the Goring lS Beeston Place, SWlW OJW (020 7396 9000)
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Mandarin Oriental Hotel. 66 Knightsbridge, SWlX
7LA (020 7201 3833)
Dirty Burger 79 Highgate Road. NWS lTL (020 3310 2010}
Dishoom 7 Boundary Street. E2 7JU (020 7420 9324)
Donostia 10 Seymour Place, WlH 7ND (020 3620 l84S)
Downtown Mayfair By Cipriani JS New Burlington Place, WlS 2HX (020 3056 1001)
Duck & Waffle 40th Floor, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgat e, EC2N 4AY (020 3640 7310)
Eight Over Eight 392 King's Road, SW3 SUZ (020 7349 9934)
Eighty-Six 86 Fulham Road. SW3 6HR (020 7052 9620)
Electric Diner 191 Portobello Road, Wll 2ED (020 7908 9696)
Elliot's 12 Stoney Street, SEl 9AD (020 7403 7436)
L'Etranger 36 Gloucester Road, SW7 4QT (020 7S84 1118)
Fino 33 Charlorte Street. WlT lRR (020 7813 8010)
Fish Market l6b New Street. EC2M 4TR (020 3503 0790)
Flat Iron 17 Beak Street, WlF 9RW (flatironsteak.co.uk)
Franco Manca 76 Northcote Road, SWll 6QL (020 7924 3110)
La Fromagerie 2--6 Moxon Street, WlU 4EW (020 7935 0341)
The Gallery at Sketch 9 Conduit Street, WIS 2XG (020 7659 4500)
Gallery Mess Duke of York's HQ. King's Road. SW3 4RY (020 7730 813S)
Galvin at Windows 28th Floor, London Hilton. 22 Park Lane. WlK lBE(020 7208 4021)
Galvin Bistrot de Luxe 66 Baker Street, WlU 7DJ (020 793S 4007)
Galvin La Chapelle 3S Spital Square, El 6DY (020 7299 0400)
Garnier 314 Earls Court Road, SWS 9BQ (020 7370 4S36)
Gauthier 21 Romillly Street, WlD 5AF (020 7494 3111)
Le Gavroche 43 Upper Brook Street. WIK7QR (020 7408 0881)
Geales 2 Farmer Street, WB 7SN (020 7727 7S28}
The Gilbert Scott St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, NWl 2AR
(020 7278 3888)
Granger & Co l7S Westbourne Grove, Wll 2SB (020 7229 9111)
The Grazing Goat 6 New Quebec Street. WlH 7RQ (020 7724 7243)
Green Man & French Horn S4 St Martin's Lane. WC2N 4EA (020 7836 2645)
Green's Restaurant & Oyster Bar 36 Duke Street, SWlY 6DF (020 7930 4566)
The Greenhouse 27a Hays Mews, WlJ SNY (020 7499 3331)
The Grill at the Montcalm 34-40 Great Cumberland Place, WlH 7TW (020 7958 3216)
Gustoso 35 Willow Place, SWlP lJ H (020 7834 5778)
Hakkasan 8 Hanway Place, WlT lHD (020 7927 7000)
Hakkasan Mayfair 17 Bruton Street. WlJ 6QB (020 79071888)
Harrison's 15-19 Bedford Hill, SW12 9EX (020 867S 6900)
Hawksmoor Air Street Sa Air Street. WlJ OAD (020 7406 3980)
Hawksmoor Guildhall JOBasinghall Street, EC2V SBQ {020 7397 8120}
Heal's Quarter Cafe Heal's, 196 Tortenham Court Road, WlT 7LQ (020 7636 1666)
Hedone 301-303 Chiswick High Road. W4 4HH (020 8747 0377)
Helene Darroze at the Connaught Carlos Place, WlK 2AL (020 7107 8880)
Heliot at the Hippodrome Cranbourn Street, WC2H 7JH (020 7769 8888)
Hix 66--70 Brewer Street, WlF 9UP (020 7292 3S18)
Hix Mayfair Brown's Hotel, Albemarle Street, WlS 4BP (020 7518 4004)
HKK 88 Worship Street, EC2A 2BE (020 35351888)
Hush 8 Lancashire Court , Brook Street, WlS lEY (020 76S9 lSOO)
lberica 195 Great Portland Street, WlW 5PS (020 7636 8650)
The Ivy 1- 5 West Street, WC2H 9NQ (020 7836 47Sl)

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J Sheekey 2~34 St Martin"s Co urt, WC2N 4AL (020 7240 256S)


John Salt 131 Upper Street. Nl lQP (020 7704 89SS)
Jose/Pizarro 104 Bermondsey Street, SEl 3UB (020 7403 4902)
Kitchen Table 70 Charlotte Street, WlT 4QQ (020 7637 7770)
Kitchen W8 11- 13 Abi ngdo n Road. W8 6AH (020 7937 0120)
Koffman's The Berkeley, Wilton Place, SWlX 7RL(020 7107 8844)
Koobla 26-42 Bond Street, WS SAA (020 3011 1666)
Lardo 20S Richmond Road, ES 3NJ (020 B98S 26S3)
Launceston Place la Launceston Place, WS SRL(020 7937 6912)
Lecture Room & Library at Sketch 9 Conduit Street. WlS 2XG (020 76S9 4SOO)
The Ledbury 127 Ledbury Road. Wll 2AQ {020 7792 2370)
Lima 31 Rat hbone Place, WlT lJH (020 002 2640)
Locanda Locatelli S Seymour St re et , WlH 7JZ (020 793S 90SS)
Maison Bertaux 2S Greek Street, WlD SDQ (020 7437 6007)
The Mall Tavern 71- 73 Palace Gardens Terrace. W8 4RU (020 7229 3374)
Mango Tree 46 Grosvenor Place. SWl X 7EQ {020 7S23 lSSS)
Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley Berkeley Hotel. Wilt on Place, SWlX7RL
(020 723S 1200)
Mari Vanna 116 Knight sbridge. SWlX 7PJ (020 722S 3122)
Mash 77 Brewer St reet, WlF 9ZN (020 7734 260S)
Mazi 12- 14 Hillgate Street. WS ?SR{020 7729 3794)
Meat Liquor 74 Welbeck Street. WlG OBA (020 7224 4239)
Meat Market The Deck. Jubilee Market Hall, Tavistock Street, WC2E 8BE
(themeat market.co.uk)
Medlar 43S King"s Road , SWlO OLJ (020 73491900)
Min Jiang Royal Garden Hotel. 2- 24 Kensington High Street, W8 4PT (020 73611988)
Momo 2S Heddon Street, WlB4BH {020 7434 4040)
Montagu Restaurant The Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill, 30 Portman
Square, WlH 7BH (020 7299 2037)
Moreno at the Baglioni 60 Hyde Park Gate, SW? SBB (020 7368 S900)
Mr Chow 151 Knightsbridge. SWlX ?PA (020 7SS9 7347)
Naamyaa Cafe 407 St John Street. EClV 4AB {020 3122 09SS)
New Street Grill l6a New Street, EC2M 4TR (020 3503 07SS)
Newman Street Tavern 4S Newman Street, WlT lQQ {020 3667 144S)
Nobu Metropolitan Hotel, 19 Old Park Lane. WlK lLB (020 7447 4747)
Nobu Berkeley Street lS Berkeley St reet. WlJ SDY {020 7290 9222)
Novikov Asian SOa Berkeley Street. WlJ SHA (020 7399 4330)
Novikov Italian 50a Berkeley Street, WlJ SHA (020 7399 4330)
Nozomi lS Beauchamp Place, SW3 INQ (020 7S38 1500)
Opera Tavern 23 Catherine Street. WC2B SJS (020 7836 3680)
Orso 27 Wellington Street , WC2E 7DB (020 7240 S269)
Outlaw's atthe Capital The Capit al Hotel, 22- 24 Basil Street. SW3 lAT
(020 7S9l 1202)
The Oval at the Wellesley The Welle sley London. ll Knightsbridge.
SWlX ?LY
The Palm l Pont Street, SWlX 9EJ (020 7201 0710)
Pan Chai Harrods, 87-l3S Brompton Road, SWlX ?XL (020 7730 1234)
Parlour 5 Regent Street. NWlO SLG (020 S969 21S4)
The Parlour at Sketch 9 Conduit Street, WlS 2XG (020 76S9 4SOO)
Paternoster Chop House Warwick Court. EC4M ?DX (020 7029 9400)
Petersham Nurseries Cafe Church Lane, Richmond, TWlO 7AG {020 S940 S230)
La Petite Maison S}-54 Brook's Mews, WlK 4EG {020 749S 4774)
El Pirata Detapas llS Westbourn e Grove. W2 4UP (020 7727 SOOO)
Pitt Cue Co l Newburgh Street, WlF ?RB (pittcue.co.uk)
Pizza East S6 Shoreditch High Street, El 6JJ (020 7729 lSSS)
Pollen Street Social S- 10 Pollen Street. WlS lNQ {020 7290 7600)
Polpo Covent Garden 6 Maiden Lane, WC2E?NA (020 7836 8488)
Polpo Smithfield 3 Cowcross Street, ECIM 6DR (020 72SO 0034)
Le Pont de la Tour 36d Shad Thames. SEl 2YE (020 7403 S403)
Portal Restaurant & Bar SS St John Street, EClM 4EH (020 72S3 69SO)
Potli 319- 321 King Street. W6 9NH {020 S74l 432S)
The Prince of Wales 138 Upper Richmond Road. SWlS 2SP (020 87S8 lSS2)

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Princess Garden of Mayfair ~10 Audley Street , WlK6ZD (020 7493 3223)
Quilon 41 Buckingham Gate. SWlE 6AF (020 7S2l lS99)
Quo Vadis 26-29 Dean Stree t, WlD 3LL (020 7437 9SSS)
Randa 23 Kensington Church St reet. WS 4LF {020 7937 S36S)
Reform Social & Grill Mandeville Hot el. Mandeville Place, WlU 2BE (020 7224 1624)
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay 6S Royal Hospital Road. SW3 4HP (020 73S2 4441)
The Rib Room Jumeirah Carlton Tower, Cadogan Place, SWlX9PY (020 78S8 72SO)
The Riding House Cafe 43-SI Great Titchfield Street, WlW 7PQ (020 7927 OS40)
II Ristorante at the Bulgari 171 Knightsbridge, SWl IDW {020 71Sl 1010)
The Ritz 150 Piccadilly, Wl) 9BR (020 7493 Sl8l)
The Ritz Restaurant lSO Piccadilly, WlJ 9BR{020 7300 234S)
Riva 169 Church Road. SWl3 9HR{020 8748 0434)
The River Cafe Thames Wharf, Rainville Road. W6 9HA {020 73S6 4200)
The River Quarter Kitchen Molasse s House, Plantation Walk, SWll 3TN

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(020 797S 505S)


Roast Floral Hall. Stoney Street, SEl lTL{084S 034 7300)
Roka 37 Charlotte St reet. WlT lRR (020 7580 6464)
Roux at the Landau The Langham Hot el, le Portland Place, WIB l)A (020 7636 1000)
Royal China l3 Queensway. W2 4QJ (020 7221 253S)
Sartoria 20 Savile Row. WlS 3PR (020 7534 7000)
Savoy Grill The Savoy. Strand. WC2R OEU (020 7592 1600)
Scott's 20 Mount Street. WlK 2HE (020 749S 7309)
Seven Park Place 7~ Park Place, SWlA lLS {020 7316 l61S)
Shake Shack 24 Market Building, The Piazza. WC2E 8RD
The Shed 122 Palace Gardens Terrace, WS 4RT {020 7229 4024)
The Shiori 45 Moscow Road. W2 4AH {020 72219790)
Shogun Millennium Hotel, 44 Grosvenor Square, WI K2HP (020 7493 12SS)
Shoryu Ramen 9 Regent Street, SWlY 4LR (shoryuramen.com)
Shrimpy's King's Cross Filling St ation, Goods Way, NlC 4UR (020 8S80 6lll)
Skylon Roya l Festival Hall, Belvedere Road, SEl SXX (020 76S4 7SOO)
Social Eating House S~S9 Poland Street. WlF 7NR{020 7993 3251)
Sonny's Kitchen 94 Church Road. SW13 ODQ (020 S74S 0393)
Sophie's Steakhouse 311- 313 Fulham Road. SWlO 9QH (020 73S2 OOSS)
Spuntino 61 Rupert Street , WlD ?PW (spuntino.co.uk)
The Square 6-10 Bruton Street, WlJ 6PU {020 749S 7100)
St John 26 St John Street, ECIM 4AY (020 3301 S069)
STK 336-337 Strand. WC2R lHA {020 739S 3444)
Sushinho 9a Devonshire Square, EC2M 4BA (020 7220 9490)
Sushisamba 3Sth floor, Heron Tower, 110 Bishosgate, EC2N 4AY {020 3640 7330)
Tamarind 20 Queen Street, WlJ SPR (020 7629 3S61)
Ten Room at the Cafe Royal 6S Regent Street, WlB4DY {020 7406 3322)
Theo Randall Intercontinental Hotel, l Hamilton Place, WlJ 7QY (020 731S S747)
The Thomas Cubitt 44 Elizabeth Street. SWl 9PA (020 7730 6060)
Tom Aikens Restaurant 43 Elyst an Street. SW3 3NT {020 7S84 2003)
Tom's Kitchen 27 Cale Street. SW3 3QP (020 7349 0202)
Tonteria 7- 12 Sloane Square, SWlW 8EG (020 7881 S99l)
Tramshed 32 Rivington Street. EC2A 3LX (020 7749 0478)
Trishna 15- 17 Blandford Street, WlU 3DG (020 793S S624)
Umu 14- 16 Bruton Place. WlJ 6LX {020 7499 SSSI)
Viajante Town Hall Hotel. Patriot Square , E2 9NF (020 7871 0461)
Vinoteca Soho 5}-S5 Beak Street, WlF 9SH (020 3544 7411)
Wabi 32- 3S Kingsway. WC2B 6EY {020 7400 S400)
Wahaca 9- 23 Charlotte Street. WlT lRL (020 7323 2342)
Wild Honey 12 St George Street. WlS 2FB (020 77SS 9160)
Wiltons 55 Jermyn Street, SWIY 6LX (020 7629 9955)
Wishbone 12 Market Row. SW9 8PR{020 7274 0939)
The Wolseley 160 Piccadilly, WlJ 9EB (020 7499 6996)
Wright Brothers l3 Kingly Street, WlB SPW {020 7434 3611)
Yauatcha 15- 17 Broadwick Street, WlFODL (020 7494 SSSS)
Zafferano 15 Lowndes Street, SWlX 9EY (020 7235 5800)
Zoilo 9 Duke Street, WlU 3EG {020 7486 9699)
Zucca 184 Bermondsey Street, SEI 3TQ (020 7378 6809)
Zuma S Raphael St reet, SW7 lDL {020 7584 1010)

Continued o verleaf

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Allium Brasserie Abbey Hotel. North Parade. Bath BAI ILF (01225 S09 467)
Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles The Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, Perthshire
PH13 INF (01764 662231)
Australasia l The Avenue, Spinningfields, Manchester M3 3AP (016l S3l 02SS)
Brasserie de Luxe The Caledonian, Princes Street. Edinburgh EHi 2AB (0131 229 1222)
Buxhall Coach House Restaurant Buxhall Vale. Stowmarket. Suffolk 1Pl4 3DH
(01449 736032)
Cafe 21 Tri nity Gardens, Quayside, Newcastle upon Tyne NEI 2HH (0191 222 0755)
Casamia 3S High Street, Bristol BS9 3DZ (0117 959 2SS4)
Castle Terrace 33-35 Castle Terrace, Edinburgh EHi 2EL (0131 2291222)
Le Champignon Sauvage 24- 26 Suffolk Road. Cheltenham. Gloucestershire GLSO 2AQ
(01242 573449)
The Chequers Church Road, Churchill, Oxfordshire OX? 6NJ (0160S 659393)
Dining Room The Pavilion Building, Rock Road. Rock, Cornwall PL27 6JS (0120S 862622)
Dining Room at Whatley Manor The Easton Grey, Malmesbury. Wiltshire SNl6 ORB
(01666 S22SSS)
The Elephant 3--4 Beacon Terrace, Torquay. Devon TQl 2BH (01803 200044)
The Fat Duck High Street. Bray, Berkshire SL6 2AQ (0162S 5S0333)
The Feathers Market Street. Woodstock. Oxfordshire OX20 ISX (01993 812291)
The Gardener's Cottage l Royal Terrace Gardens, Edinburgh EH? 5DX (0131 5581221)
The Hand & Flowers 126 West Street, Marlow, Buckinghamshire SL? 2BP (0162S 4S2 277)
Humphry's Stoke Park, Park Road, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire SL2 4PG (01753 717172)
Jeremy's Restaurant Borde Hill. Balcombe Road. Haywards Heath, West Sussex
RHl6 lXP (01444 441102)
Lockwoods 83 North Street, Ripon, North Yorkshire HG4 lDP (01765 607555)
Ludo's The Coopers Inn, Station Road, Newcastle Emlyn, Carrnenthenshire SA38 9BX
(01239 7105SS)

51 Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons Church Road Road, Great Milton, O xfordshire OX44 ? PD
(01S44 27S SSl)
50 The Manor at Weston-on-the-Green Oxfordshire OX25 3QL (OlS69 350621)
53 Midsummer House Midsummer Common, Cambridge CB4 lHA (01223 369299)
52 Mint and Mustard 134 Whitchurch Road, Cardiff CF14 3LZ (02920 620333)
54 The Neptune S5 Old Hunstanton Road. O ld Hunstanton, Norfolk PE36 6HZ (014S5 532122)
50 Number One The Balmoral, l Princes Street. Edinburgh EH2 2EQ (0131 557 6727)
52 The Olde Bell Hurley. Berkshire SL6 SLX (01628 825881)
51 Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 6 Middle Street. Padstow, Cornwall PL2S SAP (01841 532093)
54 The Peat Inn Peat Inn. By Cupar, Fife KY15 5LH (01334 840206)
51 The Pig Beaulieu Road, Brockenhurst, Hampshire S042 7QL (01590 622354)
54 The Purefoy Arms Preston Candover, Hampshire RG25 2EJ (01256 389777)
50 Purnell's 55 Cornwall Street, Birmingham B3 2DH (0121 212 9799)
54 Restaurant Nathan Outlaw St Enedoc Hotel. Rock, Cornwall PL27 6LA
(Ol20S S62737)
51 Sam's of Brighton l Paston Place, Bri ghton BN2 lHA (01273 676222)
54 Seasons at the Four Seasons Chalky Lane. Dogmersfield. Hampshire RG27 STD
{01252 S53000)
51 Simon Radley at the Chester Grosvenor Eastgate, Chester, CHl lLT (01244 324024)
52 The Sir Charles Napier Sprigg's Alley, Chin ner, Oxfordshire OX39 4BX (01494 4S30ll)
55 Summer Lodge 9 Fore Street, Evershot. Dorset DT2 OJR
54 Terre Terre 71 East Street. Brighton BNl IHQ (01273 729051)
55 Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery 652-654 Argyle Street, Glasgow G3 SUF (0141 221 SISS)
55 Vetiver Chewton Glen, New Milton, Hampshire BH25 6QS (01425 275341)
55 The Walnut Tree Llanddewi Skirrid. Abergavenny. Monmouthshire NP? SAW
(01873 S52797)
50 The Wheatsheaf Inn West End. Northleach. Gloucestershire GL54 3EZ (01451 S60244)

AMUSE-BOUCH ES
'Enough, enough!' we hear you cry- but there's more. Mo re
ofthe good stuffthatfor one reason or anotherjust didn't
make our pages this year. Here is a small selection...

people, Skye Gyngell, who made her name among the nasturtiums
at Petersham Nurseries Cafe, is going back to the land in H ampshire,
as culinary director (no less) at about-to-open hotel Heckfield Place.
Skye is planning a new London restaurant too, though details are thin
Just open as we go to press, rhe Clove Club, in Shoredirch Town
on rhe ground. Now here's a big one, vicar - Gordon is finally leaving
Claridge's and a new restaurant is soon to be announced. Lots of
Hall, is the hot new one from the boys behind the phenomenally
successful Upstairs at the Ten Bells. Also just open,
huge names are being bandied around ... W ith two
UV~LJV
flourishing restaurants in London, Nobu is going
Master & Servant (8-9 Haxton Square, NI ) is not
an S&M venue bur a hip and edgy Modern Brit
FINALLY LEAVINC: into the hotel business, and Nobu Shoreditch
from Masterchejfmalist Matt Edwards and head chef
(10-50 Willow Street, EC2) is expected to open
CLARIDGE'S
Luke Cleghorn, who is ex-Sr John. O nwards and
this autumn. In C helsea, just along the street from
AND A NEW
upwards, the lovely guys from Chabrot are about
the wonderful John Sandoe bookshop, Five Fields
RESTAURANT IS
ro announce a new venue in Smithfield - definitely
(8- 9 Blacklands Terrace, SW3), opening soon,
will buck the trend of down-and-dirty food - and
one to look our for. Do you remember the Goar in
SOON TO BE
Boots? We do - just (although it's a bit hazy). Matt
thank heavens for that, we say, because you can
A
I Ir'\ I I 1rcn
H ermer, who is behind Eclipse, Cocoon, Bumpkin
only sink so low. W ith an American chefpatron and
and Boujis, is relaunching it as Goat this spring - 'vintage chic with
a team as smart as a whip, this will absolutely be one to watch. That's
urban edge,' he says. Exactly what the Beach needs. Meanwhile, Bruno the news down on the ground but, up in the air, look our for Oblix,
Rainer Becker of Zuma fame's new restaurant at the Shard; Aqua and
Lauber, whose bistro in the Zener hotel is such a runaway success,
is opening a second venue, Grain Store, in King's Cross in early June
Hutong, from Hong Kong restaurant group Aqua, will also be opening
(1-3 Stable Street, Granary Square, London Nl ). One of our favourite outlets in the EU's tallest building. The sky's the limit - or is it?

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Fine Drinking.

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(Picbl1eCI Cocklail; Swiraysia Mango Bellini. mix it from your hotel miml>ar.)

Sunraysia Mango is currently enjoying rninibar residency at the following fine hotels:
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park London, Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund,
Grosvenor House A JW Marriott Hotel London, Chateau Yering Historic House Hotel,
Park Hyatt Paris-Vendorne, The Peninsula Shanghai, London Hilton on Park Lane ...

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