Chandler Brun

The Mantle
The mantle was a very common form of dress that
emerged with the Etruscans between 800-200 B.C. As time
evolved, different forms of the mantle came into being.
There was the tebenna, which transitioned into an open
mantle, then the closed mantle was formed. Closed mantles
began to emerge in the middle ages (Tortora & Marcketti,
2015, p. 129). As seen in figure 1, the blue outer garment
depicted is a closed mantle, defined as, a length of fabric
with a slit to slip the head through (Tortora & Marcketti,

Figure 1. Tortora & Marcketti (2015). p. 129.

2015, p. 128). A typical fashion in the middle ages was to wear a hood or veil over the closed
mantle, as shown in this picture. In figure 2, this is a more exaggerated form of a closed mantle
today as seen in Chloes ready-to-wear Fall 2016 show at New York Fashion Week. A slight
difference is the detailing around the neck hole and edges
in figure 2. From the closed mantles shown today there
appears to be a smaller neck hole then the neck hole in
figure 2. Mantles appear throughout costume history, in
many different forms. In the 10th century, mantles were
typically square shaped, and into the 11th century they
rounded at the edges and became more circular. Figure 1
appears to be square shaped, as does figure 2. Mantles are a
piece of costume history that has remained constant over
Figure 2. http://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/fall-2016-ready-towear/chloe/slideshow/collection

the centuries, just changes form.

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The Dalmatic
The dalmatic first appeared during the Roman
Empire, and became more prevalent in the Byzantine time
period and early middle ages. The dalmatic gradually
replaces the tunic. It is characterized by long wide sleeves,
but is still the same simple t-shape (Tortora & Marcketti,
2015, p. 114). Just as other garments in costume history,
women wore an under tunic underneath their dalmatic that
had closely fitting sleeves, so minimal skin was exposed and to

Figure 3. Payne (1965). p. 102.

show different levels of wealth with different fabrics. As centuries pass, dalmatics are adorned
with jewels, trimmings, and different colored dyes (Tortora &
Marcketti, 2015, p. 114). Figure 3 is a very simple dalmatic, from
around the time they first appeared. The sleeves are slightly flared
and there are some simple patterns down the front of the dalmatic.
However, in figure 4, the sleeves are more flared and there is
greater pattern along the front, and the neckline is deeper. Its hard
to tell, but it appears that the model is also wearing something
underneath. Fashion is always changing and the dalmatic
throughout costume history is very early evidence of that. The
Figure 4. http://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/fall-2016-ready-towear/chloe/slideshow/collection#15

same simple t-shaped garment with flared sleeves has

remained a part of fashion until today.

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The Houppelande
The houppelande first appeared in the
14th century and disappears shortly after the
15th century. Although it
was only around for a century, it had many
variations and was worn by many. When
houppelandes were first introduced, a key
characteristic was a tall standing neckline,

Figure 5. Tortora & Marcketti (2015). p. 167.

which was the first of its kind. The houppelande had flared sleeves, a standing neckline, and an
overall loose fit. In figure 5, the woman in pink is wearing an example of a houppelande. It has
the high standing neckline, dramatically flared sleeves, and an overall loose fit, that she has
belted. This is evidence of the houppelande changing over time because she has belted it, and the
white at the top gives the appearance of a collar, but is
really just her houppelande neckline turned down. (Tortora
& Marcketti, 2015, p. 156). As time progresses, there is
evidence of some variation such as these, in addition the
sleeves start to look different. Some typical sleeves are the
bagpipe sleeve and hanging sleeve. Bagpipe sleeves were
very loose, but fitted at the wrist, and the hanging sleeves
had a slit all the way down the sleeve so the arms could
move freely without being restricted by sleeves. Figure 6
shows a modern example of a houppelande. It has a high
Figure 6.
http://www.harpersbazaar.com/celebrity/redcarpet-dresses/g6685/golden-globes-red-carpet2016/?slide=15

standing neckline, a general loose fit, belted high on the

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waist, and shows a great example of hanging sleeves. The houppelande transitioned into the
gown or robe after the 15th century. Even though it was relatively short lived, it had many
variations and influenced costume for the rest of history.
The Drum Farthingale
The drum farthingale emerged after the Spanish
farthingale in the early 16th century, disappeared by the end of
the century, and then something similar will reappear in the
18th century. The farthingale was created with with metal,
cane, boning, or something else stiff, and arranged into a
certain shape. The Spanish farthingale emerged first and it
was characterized as having a soft conical shape that women
wore underneath their skirts to create an exaggerated shape. A

Figure 7. Boucher (1987). p. 237.

drum farthingale soon emerged after the Spanish

farthingale and it was a more exaggerated cylindrical
shape with a flat top. It has many names, but most call it a
drum farthingale because of its shape. Its the equivalent
of a hoop skirt in the 16th century. The drum farthingale
was created to attain greater width than the bum roll
allowed (Tortora & Marcketti, 2015, p. 221). Figure 7
features many different aspects of costume that were
commonly paired with the drum farthingale in the 16th
century. There are stuffed sleeves, an extra hanging sleeve
Figure 8. http://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2016-couture/zuhairmurad/slideshow/collection#51

off the back, a small ruffle over the waist, and an open ruff.

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In figure 8, the sleeves are cropped, and there is a possible appearance of stays. This bodice
shape appears again in the 18th century. Although there are upper body differences, the drum
farthingale itself it practically replicated in the modern example. The farthingale is a very
dramatic piece of costume so today it most commonly appears in couture collections.

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References
Boucher, F. (1987). 20,000 years of fashion: The history of costume and personal adornment.
New York, NY: H. N. Abrams.
Payne, B. (1965). History of costume, from the ancient Egyptians to the twentieth century. New
York, NY: Harper & Row.
Tortora, P. G., & Eubank, K. (2015). Survey of historic costume A history of western dress (6th
ed.). New York, NY: Fairchild.