The most functional yet basic of bag designs.

A book bag, a
market carry-all, the perfect everyday tote. Carry in your hand, on your shoulder or across your
chest. Brings home everything from a laptop to groceries.
Dimensions: 18 high / 12 wide / 6 deep with a 42 [1.1 m] adjustable shoulder strap and
interior pocket. [45.75 cm x 30.5 cm x 15 cm]
Construction Method: Turned finish this method may be recognized by noting the lack
of machine-stitching that is visible at points of assembly on the exterior side of the bag. This is
possible by placing the material, or parts, face to face, machining and turning right-side out. It
is the most commonly used assembly process.
Material Used: 100% cotton drill, 54 wide
You will need:

1 yd. [1 m] of durable fabric, 54 width [137 cm] *

1 spool of heavy-duty thread

1 slider buckle, inner dia. 1.5 inches [40 mm]

1 bracket ring, inner dia. 1.5 inches [40 mm]

1 nylon closed zipper, 6 long [15 cm]

2 yds. [2.3 m] of single-fold bias tape, -inch wide [12 mm]

1 roll of kraft paper

PATTERN

Scale = X = >4.5 inches [ >11.5 cm]; the prototype is 6 deep [15 cm]
The draft and formation of this utility totebag is based upon a simple flat grid, which fits into a
square or rectangle, of which the size depends on the desired depth of the style (4 1/2 or
greater).
** Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.
CUTTING
* cut totebag on the cross-grain for railroaded fabric. (for a directional pattern on straight-grain
you will need to purchase additional yardage.)

Body cut 1X
Strapping cut 2X
Facing cut 2X
Pocket cut 1 X
Ring Loops cut 2 strips 4 x 4 [10 cm x 10 cm]
ASSEMBLY
1.

Make up straps pieces and ring loops. Topstitch if desired. Set aside.

2.

Make interior pocket. Center and attach one side of zipper to short edge of pocket piece.
Turn in the seam allowances of the pocket sides and press flat. Fold pocket piece in half,
aligning short end with tape edge of zipper. Sew the sides of the pocket

by topstitching around

perimeter

of

pocket.

Set

aside.

3.

Do a Hong Kong finish to neaten all vertical seams of the totebag.

4.

With FACE sides together, sew the vertical seams and press open. Then, align and
match the side of the bag to its bottom. Sew from corner to corner to miter the seam.
Bind the raw edge of this seam with bias tape and complete a Hong Kong seam finish.
Turn body of the bag right-side out. Set aside.

5.

Cut one of the strap pieces in two. These will be the bag handles. Measure each handle
strap to 18 [45 cm] long. Center a handle on both front and back panels and pin into
position. (spread of handles should be equal to X.)

6.

Place the bracket ring onto the ring loop and fold in half. Pin loop to one side seam. On
opposite side seam, pin the long strap piece.

7.

With FACE sides together, sew the short ends of the facing pieces to create a loop of
fabric. Pin the facing to the top edge of the bag, encasing the straps and loops between

the layers. Sew around opening of the bag. Sew an X-stitch through each strap end and
the facing. Turn under the seam allowance on the raw edge of the facing and press flat.
8.

Turn facing into the body of the totebag and align the side seams. Position the interior
pocket between one set of strap handles so that the bottom edge of the facing covers the
exposed tape of the zipper. Topstitch the upper and lower edges of the facing to the body
to complete the opening, ensure the stitching catches the top edge of the pocket.

9.

Slip the slider buckle onto the long strap, and then draw the strap through the bracket
loop. Return the end of the strapping back through the slider and secure in place.