Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Gomez
Hotter
Than Ever
Renegade
Chic
Detroits
Street Scene
Suits Gone
Wild
The Haircut
Thats All
The Buzz
American
Dreams
Fashions New Freedom
W MARCH
254
Liked by
Many
Photograph by Steven Klein
Louis Vuitton top and bra; Miu Miu tiara.
Beauty note: Enjoy some fringe benefits
with Marc Jacobs Beauty Feather Noir
Ultra-Skinny Lash-Discovery Mascara. Styled
by Patti Wilson. For stores, prices, and more, go
to Wmag.com/where-to-buy-march-2016.
Fashion +
Features
58
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FREE SPIRITS
Revisiting the style revolutionaries
who knew no fashion boundaries.
Photographs by Inez and Vinoodh
314
Continued on page 74
W MARCH
338
Blurred
Lines
Photograph by
Alasdair McLellan
Whats Hot
Whos Next
143
151
186
From left: Alexander Wang
bustier; Loewe skirt. Dior
Homme pants; Thomas Pink
belt. Styled by Edward
Enninful. For stores, prices,
and more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.
74
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188
194
211
212
199
202
208
238
248
Continued on page 84
W MARCH
320
Funny
Business
Photograph by
Patrick Demarchelier
Cover
Departments
Hilfiger Collection
jacket, vest, and pants;
Marieclaire St John shirt;
Faraone Mennella
earrings and bracelet;
Munnu the Gem Palace
rings; Fendi sandals. Styled
by Giovanna Battaglia.
84
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Beauty
230 Braids and plaits are a fresh option
for spring.
234 JANES ADDICTION: What Ws
Beauty Director, Jane Larkworthy, is
hooked on now.
118
EDITORS LETTER
124
MOST WANTED
132
GIOS JOURNAL
134
CULTURAL CALENDAR
GIO
TRACKER
wmag.com/fashion
A$AP,
ASAP!
video.wmagazine.com
DIGITAL EDITIONS
wmag.com/services/tablet
W IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 2016 COND NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 45, NO. 2. W (ISSN 0162-9115) is published monthly (except for combined
issues in December/January and June/July) by Cond Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Cond Nast, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive
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SELENAS GOT STYLE: TOMMY MOORE; GOMEZ WEARS MARC JACOBS CARDIGAN; DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH: HORACIO SALINAS, STYLED BY CLAUDIA MATA; FROM TOP: SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE EARRINGS; BELPERRON EARCLIPS. GIO TRACKER: BFA; A$AP,
ASAP!: CHAD PITMAN; A$AP ROCKY WEARS GUESS ORIGINALS X A$AP ROCKY T-SHIRT AND OVERALLS. MIA KANG WEARS GUESS ORIGINALS X A$AP ROCKY JACKET AND OVERALLS. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016
The Shot
W MAGAZINE IS ON THE
LOOKOUT FOR THE NEXT
BIG NAME IN FASHION
PHOTOGRAPHY.
At W magazine, we make it a point to bring
you the work of industry hotshots like Steven
Meisel, Steven Klein, Craig McDean, and Inez
and Vinoodh. But we also always have our eye
out for whos next. Take Jamie Hawkesworth, for
example, who was featured in Ws April 2014
issue and went on to work with Loewe and Miu
Miu. Or Boo George, who won The Shot in
2013 and has since contributed to W and other
major fashion magazines. Do you think you
have what it takes to be a W photographer?
Visit Wmag.com/the-shot for details on how
to submit your work to The Shot, our talent
search, this year sponsored by Hugo Boss.
wmag.com
107
STEFANO TONCHI
Editor in Chief
ARMAND LIMNANDER
Executive Editor
LYNN HIRSCHBERG
Editor at Large
JANE LARKWORTHY
Beauty Director
ALIX BROWNE
Features Director
EDWARD ENNINFUL
Fashion and Style Director
RICKIE DE SOLE
Fashion Market and Accessories Director
JOHAN SVENSSON
Design Director
DIANE SOLWAY
Arts and Culture Director
CAROLINE WOLFF
Photography Director
FEATURES
JENNY COMITA
Senior Features Editor at Large
VANESSA LAWRENCE
Features Writer
REGAN A. SOLMO
Executive Managing Editor
CLAUDIA MATA
Jewelry and Accessories Director
SANDRA BALLENTINE
Beauty Editor at Large
KARIN NELSON
Features Editor
FAN ZHONG
Associate Editor
GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA
Contributing Fashion Editor
GIANLUCA LONGO
Contributing European Editor
DIGITAL
ERIN SIMON
Bookings Director
SAM MILNER
Senior Market Editor and Manager
ESM REN
Senior Photo Editor
LINA WAHLGREN
Art Director
TIFFANIE GRAHAM
Photo Research Editor
HANNA VARADY
Senior Designer
JESSY PRICE
Associate Photo Editor
BIEL PARKLEE
Assistant Bookings Editor
OPERATIONS
SARAH LEON
Digital Director
ERIK MAZA
Digital Features Director
EMILIA PETRARCA
Associate Digital Editor
SAMANTHA
ANDRIANO
Social Media Manager
EVENTS & PR
ROSEANN MARULLI
Associate Managing Editor
AUDRA ASENCIO
Special Projects Director
JENNIFER MURRAY
Production Director
ROBIN AIGNER
Copy Chief
KELLY McDONOUGH
Production Manager
COREY SABOURIN
Copy Editor
KRISTIN AUBLE
Research Editor
ADRIANA STAN
Public Relations Director
SHARLYN PIERRE
Researcher
FRANCINE SCHORE Business Manager
GILLIAN SAGANSKY Associate to the Editor in Chief/Assistant Writer
LUCY KRIZ
Publisher, Chief Revenue Officer
RISA ARONSON
Associate Publisher
DOAK SERGENT
Associate Publisher, Marketing and Head of Brand Development
TANYA AMINI
Advertising Director
LILY GIVONI
Executive Director, Fashion
RICHIE GRIN
Luxury Director
LAUREN KAMEN
Director, Digital Sales and Operations
SASHA KRUG
Digital Manager
MILAN
LAURA BOTTA
Fashion/Luxury Director
39.02.655.84.221
GIULIA GIACOBELLI
Sales Assistant
PARIS
ELIZABETH HAYNES
Luxury Director, Europe
33.1.4411.7815
LAURENCE GUERINET
Sales Assistant
ROBERT ROWE
International Advertising Director
RAYLENE SALTHOUSE
Executive Director, Beauty
ALY BORI
Digital Campaign Analyst
WEST COAST
ALLISON JOYCE
Western Director
323.965.3549
MEGAN McLAUGHLIN
Sales Assistant
MIDWEST
LINDA JOSEPH
Midwest Director
312.649.3548
ALEXANDRA
KELIKIAN
Sales Assistant
DETROIT
HEIDI NOWAK
Detroit Advertising Director
248.458.7965
LYNN McROBB
Sales Assistant
CANADA
BOB DODD
Dodd Media Sales
905.885.0664
HAWAII
LOREN MALENCHECK
Malencheck & Associates
808.283.7122
INTEGRATED MARKETING
CELIA CHEN Executive Director, Partnerships and Events HEATHER H. GUMBLEY Executive Director, Integrated Marketing RACHEL SWANSON Executive Director, Marketing and Research
ANTHONY CANDELA Associate Director, Integrated Marketing MARLEY ISRAEL Associate Art Director ALISON JAVORA Integrated Marketing Director JASON RAVILLE Creative Director
ALEXA AGUGLIARO Associate Manager, Integrated Marketing MICHELLE BONDARCHUK Special Events Manager NATASHA BULLARD Senior Marketing Research Manager
CHRISTINA FERNANDES Marketing and Research Associate ABBY SILVERMAN Designer
BUSINESS
CERENE C. JORDAN Director of Finance and Business Operations JILL CAREY Business Director
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ANNA WINTOUR
Artistic Director
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a few weeks ago, as I waited in traffic to get through the militarylike security checks, my car was mobbed. On one side, people were
waving pro-life signs, preaching their love of Jesus and warning
anyone who would listen about the sinfulness of the nominated
films. On the other side, Hollywood fans, many of them teenagers
armed with their standard-issue iPhones, were proclaiming their
adoration to the rather different gods and goddesses who were
about to step onto the red carpet.
Freedom can be an incredibly abstract concept, but I thought
this episode reflected a simple and tangible reality: Everyone was
voicing his or her beliefs. America is not a perfect place, and the
American Dreamwhichever version of it you choose to believe inis not a reality for most. Still, I feel very lucky to live
in a time and place in which Im able to choose who I want to be
and what I want to believe in.
At the risk of sounding pretentious in a politically charged year,
for our March issue we decided to celebrate a renewed sense of
American optimism. A welcome by-product of the digital revolution is that young people are experimenting with identity and
image in order to stand out rather than fit in. Notions of gender,
religion, status, and self-presentation are all suddenly up for grabs.
No one embodies this spirit of freedom better than our cover
star, Selena Gomez (Liked by Many, page 254). Her transformation from a one-note Disney sweetheart into a multifaceted
woman mirrors the emotional voyage of a whole generation of
young Americans trying to steer clear of stereotypes. In her candid interview with the writer David Amsden, Gomez talks about
her much-scrutinized relationship with Justin Bieber, the pitfalls
of growing up famous, and her highly strategic use of social media.
Redefining American values in a globalized world is the challenge that Stuart Vevers has gamely embraced as the creative
director of Coach, one of the most beloved American accessories
S T, Editor in Chief
GOMEZ AND TONCHI: COURTESY OF TONCHI; FLAG: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST/COURTESY OF GERING & LOPEZ GALLERY, NEW YORK; SILENT TREATMENT: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST/GAGOSIAN
GALLERY; THIS PIECE HAS NO TITLE YET: RUBELL FAMILY COLLECTION; RUCKENFIGUR: RONALD AMSTUTZ/WHITNEY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART; FLAG #10: COURTESY OF SAATCHI GALLERY
EDITORS LETTER
MOST WANTED
3
1
Slip of
a Thing
Accessories Director
1. Alexander Wang slip dress, $2,495, bomber jacket, $950, earrings, $295,
and sneakers, $395, alexanderwang.com; Vhernier ring, $1,370, Vhernier,
Beverly Hills, 310.273.2444. 2. CVC Stones necklace, $3,200, barneys.com.
3. Josie Natori gown, $550, Neiman Marcus, 888.888.4757. 4. IRO sneakers,
$400, iroparis.com. 5. Loewe bag, $2,690, Ikram, Chicago, 312.587.1000.
124
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HAIR BY BRAYDON NELSON FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MAKEUP BY MAKKY P FOR DIOR AT STREETERS; MANICURE BY ERI HANDA FOR DIOR AT MAM-NYC; SET DESIGN BY TODD WIGGINS AT MARY HOWARD STUDIO; MODEL: HEDVIG PALM AT
NEXT MODEL MANAGEMENT; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: NIC ONG; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: KRIS SHACOCHIS; FASHION ASSISTANT: KARLY GRAWIN; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: YURIKO; SET DESIGN ASSISTANT: JUSTIN DAVIS; 2, 3, 4, 5: GORMAN STUDIO, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON
MOST WANTED
7
8
9
10
6, 11: GORMAN STUDIO; 9: COURTESY OF BEAU; 7, 10, 12, 13: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS; 8: INDIGITAL
12
11
This embossed Poudre Lumire Originelle in dusty rose is almost too beautiful
to use.
Jane Larkworthy
Beauty Director
12. EQUIPMENT SWEATER
$218, equipmentfr.com
13
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129
GIOS JOURNAL
The Raspoutine
and Perrier-Jout
party in the
penthouse of the
Faena hotel
during Art Basel
Miami Beach was
so packed, I made
my own VIP room
in the shower.
My friends Erin
Hazelton and
Alexander Werz
[left] joined me.
We were denitely
the freshest
guests there.
FOR WS GLAMOROUS
GLOBE-TROTTER,
GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA,
ITS A FAB, FAB WORLD.
Designer Mary
Katrantzou had the
perfect dress for the Art
Basel Miami Beach fair
in her resort collection
its like wearing a Pantone
palette. And, of course,
it matched this William
Cordova work [above,
center]. Posing in front
of it, I felt like I became
part of the painting!
132
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While on break
from a shoot in Los
Angeles, I realized
my Adidas Originals
sneakers matched
the Frank Gehry
designed Walt Disney
Concert Hall [left].
For my moms
birthday, my
friend Edoardo
Marchiori
made a Barbie
in her likeness
[left]down to
her necklace!
High Art
CULTURAL CALENDAR
Spring Awakening
ARTS AND CULTURE DIRECTOR
DIANE SOLWAYS MUSTS FOR MARCH.
Pair Game
According to the laws that govern romantic comedies, being single is a crime.
In The Lobster, a dark satire that won the jury prize at Cannes, the writerdirector Yorgos Lanthimos takes this offense to an absurdist extreme. A divorc
(Colin Farrell) checks in to a rehab facility for the uncoupled. If he fails
to nd a mate by the end of his 45-day stay, he will be transformed into an
animal and released into the wild, where the Loners, a clan of outcasts
(including Rachel Weisz), remain militantly single. If you encounter any
problems that you cannot resolve yourselves, you will be assigned children,
the couples are admonished. That usually helps.
From left, scenes from The Lobster:
John C. Reilly, Ben Whishaw, and Colin
Farrell; Farrell and Rachel Weisz.
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MIZRAHI: BEBETO MATTHEWS/ASSOCIATED PRESS; RUNWAY: DAN LECCA; POSTER: MIRAMAX/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION/ALAMY; UNHAPI COAT: RICHARD
GOODBODY/THE JEWISH MUSEUM, NEW YORK; BABY BJORN BALLGOWN: JASON FRANK ROTHENBERG; FAME: COURTESY OF MGM; THE LOBSTER: COURTESY OF ALCHEMY
Le Miz
CULTURAL CALENDAR
Oscar Worthy
Double Vision
Transformers
Back when male action painters like Jackson Pollock dominated
the art world, the artists Louise Bourgeois and Lee Bontecou
were sculpting body fragments with a raw intimacy that was
taboo; soon after, Sheila Hicks and Eva Hesse would bring
textiles and other non-art materials into the studio. Revolution in
the Making: Abstract Sculpture by Women, 19472016 (March 13
through September 4) looks at the largely uncredited role that
female sculptors have played in recent art history. The show
inaugurates the Los Angeles gallery Hauser Wirth & Schimmel
and introduces co-curator Paul Schimmel in the role of gallerist.
On view are works by 100 female artistsa mix of stalwarts like
Bourgeois and Yayoi Kusama, and their heirs, including Karla
Black, who sculpts with cosmetics, and Shinique Smith, whos
making a huge braid knotted with balloons, fashion accessories,
and plush toys. Of course, the craft elements that originally
marginalized many women are commonly used by artists today.
Women, says co-curator Jenni Sorkin, have been at the helm all
along.
Bookshelf
March may go in like a lion and out like
a lamb, but the novels debuting this month
reverse that course, beginning gently
and ending ercely. From the great Irish
novelist Edna OBrien comes The Little
Red Chairs (Little, Brown), a tale set in
a sleepy provincial town that welcomes a
fugitive disguised as a New Age doctor,
who is ultimately tried at the Hague for
mass genocide. (Philip Roth calls it
OBriens masterpiece.) Dana Spiottas
whip-smart Innocents and Others
(Scribner) maps the unexpected conuence
of two rising feminist lmmakers and a
blind movie buff who, posing as a lm
student, seduces Hollywood men over the
phone, simply by listening to them. In
Elizabeth Poliners As Close to Us As
Breathing (Lee Boudreaux Books),
set in 1948, a tragedy incites a generation
of strife for a Jewish family summering
at the Connecticut shore. And in
Catherine Lowells winking romp, The
Madwoman Upstairs (Touchstone),
the last remaining Bront heir sets off on
a modern-day literary treasure hunt
to nd the familys rumored secret estate,
an adventure that vividly hurtles toward
the nal page.
136
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GROUP OF ARCHITECTURAL WORKS: JKA PHOTOGRAPHY/SAN JOSE MUSEUM OF ART/ESTATE OF RUTH ASAWA; UNTITLED (THE WEDGES): CHRISTOPHER BURKE/THE EASTON FOUNDATION;
OSCAR DE LA RENTA LOOK: GUY MARINEAU; LISA LYON, 1981, LISA LYON, 1982, AND POPPY: COURTESY OF THE ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE FOUNDATION; BOOKS: TIM HOUT
WHOS NEXT
Debicki wears a
Tom Ford dress.
Elizabeth Debicki
Stand-Up
Acts
A FIGHTER, A COOL GIRL,
AND A 6-FOOT-3 BEAUTY.
THESE ACTRESSES ARE
NO WALLFLOWERS.
Continued on page 148
WHOS NEXT
Jacobs wears a
Versace vest.
Elodie Yung
My character
is a sociopath.
She uses
people; shes a
great liar.
But, of course,
I rarely lie,
Yung says.
148
wmag.com
Dont mess
with Elodie Yung. The FrenchCambodian actress has been a cop,
a ninja, and a gang lord. Im a black
belt in karate, Yung, 35, says. I
grew up on the outskirts of Paris,
and it was rough.
But as the assassin Elektra, the
comic-book villain she portrays on
the second season of Netflixs series
Marvels Daredevil, she isnt only a
physical threat. Elektra is a proper
sociopath, Yung says. She uses
people; shes a great liar. A pause.
But, of course, I rarely lie.
Before she turned to acting, Yung,
who will also appear in next months
fantasy-adventure feature film Gods
of Egypt, was on track to become a
lawyer. Then a friend convinced her
to go on a commercial audition for
a quick paycheck. I made up a fake
C.V., Yung admits. I pretended to
be an actress whod done stuff before. Wait, that sounds suspiciously
Elektra-like. You got meI was
lying. But Im not very good at it,
because I end up telling the truth.
Yung wears a
Roberto Cavalli
top. For stores,
prices, and more,
go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buymarch-2016.
HAIR BY RAMSELL MARTINEZ FOR ORIBE AT STREETERS; MAKEUP BY DARLENE JACOBS FOR LANCOME AT STARWORKS ARTISTS; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: JUSTIN RUHL; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: SETH GUDMUNSON, ZAC HAHN; FASHION ASSISTANT: MARY OSSOVSKAYA
Gillian Jacobs
After
starring in the NBC hit sitcom
Community, Gillian Jacobs has made
the role of Imposing Young Woman
her specialty. First there was MimiRose Howard, an artist of unnerving
composure, on the HBO show Girls.
Now comes Mickey, one half of the
central relationship in Love, Judd
Apatows upcoming naturalistic
Netflix series. An emotional wreck
with a cool exterior, Mickey has the
kind of blas confidence that strikes
fear in the heart of her eventual paramour, Gus (Paul Rust)and in the
head of the actress herself.
She feels like the type of girl who
always intimidated me, says Jacobs,
33, who doesnt share Mickeys predilection for recreational drug use
and hot boxing. I dont smoke
weed in real life, so my castmates are
teaching me how to do it on the fly.
I tend to play characters who are
much more experienced in those
things than I am.
For Jacobs, who studied at New
Yorks Juilliard, acting has served
as a form of social therapy. It all
started because I had no friends
and was talking to myself on the
playground in elementary school,
she says. The teacher called my
mom and said she should put me
in an extracurricular activity. Acting class was the first time in my
life that I felt understood or accepted.
WE LOVE
Molly Goddard
J.W. Anderson
Simone Rocha
Sandy Liang
We Love
Mansur Gavriel
HAIR BY BRAYDON NELSON FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MAKEUP BY MAKKY P FOR DIOR AT STREETERS; MANICURE BY ERI HANDA FOR DIOR AT MAM-NYC; SET DESIGN BY TODD WIGGINS AT MARY HOWARD STUDIO; MODEL: ALECIA MORAIS AT THE
SOCIETY MANAGEMENT; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: NIC ONG; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: KRIS SHACOCHIS; FASHION ASSISTANT: KARLY GRAWIN; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: YURIKO; SET DESIGN ASSISTANT: JUSTIN DAVIS; MODEL WEARS J.W. ANDERSON DRESS AND BOOTS. MANSUR
GAVRIEL, MOLLY GODDARD: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS; SANDY LIANG AND BOL: GETTY IMAGES; SIMONE ROCHA: INDIGITAL; GRAVENHORST, GLAUSER, AND BELL: PHIL OH; VENTURINI: INDIGITAL; FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016
Rethink Pink
Louis Vuitton
Lanvin
WE LOVE
Chanel
Marc Jacobs
88 models walked,
154
wmag.com
3 varieties of rolling
suitcases were wheeled
around.
19 models sported
backward baseball caps.
Brand Awareness
Love Loewe? Vying for Vuitton?
Now is the time to let the world
know by flaunting their logos.
14 Lesage-embroidered
patches appeared on
the jacket in look No. 57.
3 outfits featured an
image of the opera diva
Maria Callas.
19 ensembles were
accessorized with the new
J,Marc handbag.
300 limited-edition
La Prairie
Erdem,
Philosophy,
and Alexander
McQueen (from
left) were but
a few brands
to put a chic
spin on Laura
Ingallslike
frocks.
CHANEL, GIVENCHY, ERDEM, PHILOSOPHY, AND PRAIRIE: GETTY IMAGES; MARC JACOBS, LANVIN, LOEWE, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, LOUIS VUITTON: INDIGITAL; LOEWE
BAG: TIM HOUT, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON; VUITTON BAG: LIAM GOODMAN; LANVIN BAG: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; LITTLE HOUSE ON THE PRAIRIE: MPTV IMAGES
Givenchy
Loewe
SAIN T LA URE NT
AL EXANDER McQUEEN
PRO EN ZA SC H O U L E R
D OLC E & GA B B A N A
CHL O
ST EL L A M cC AR T N E Y
CL INE
GIVE N C H Y
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
OSCA R D E L A R E N T A
AK RIS
ERDEM
BURBERRY PR O R S U M
CALL 800.429.0996, VISIT SAKS.COM OR FIND US ON INSTAGRAM, VINE, YOUTUBE AND SAKSPOV.COM
ETR O
Dior
Lanvin
J.W. Anderson
Winner by a Neck
Whether fashioned from ribbon or
formed from molten metal, arty
chokers have a hold on the season.
Early 1900s
1930s40s
1960s
1970s
1990s
2016
Referred to as an
architect of fashion,
the Roman designer
Roberto Capucci
experimented with
techniques and
materials to create
wildly colorful and
sculptural pleated
gowns that, in many
cases, were not
meant to be worn.
Though often
compared to Fortunys
masterpieces, Mary
McFaddens signature
pleated dresses had
one main difference:
Mariithe synthetic
charmeuse she used.
It was woven in
Australia, dyed in
Japan, and pleated
in the United States.
The result? Long,
fluid folds that no
amount of ironing
could ever flatten.
Wanting to offer
accessible kimonolike clothing, the
Japanese designer
Issey Miyake
launched Pleats
Please in 1993. Made
from a cuttingedge polyester, his
machine-washable
garments proved
popular with
ease-seeking,
style-driven women
like the fashion
critic Suzy Menkes.
Seen at Proenza
Schouler, Gucci,
Sacai, Stella
McCartney, and
Adam Lippes
to name but a
fewmicro pleats
are having a serious
renaissance for
spring. But leave
it to Miyake to
continue to innovate:
He introduced a
fabric baking
technique that
results in bouncy,
curvilinear folds.
Adam Lippes
Gucci
ILLUSTRATION BY LOVISA BURFITT; ARAKS PAJAMAS: GORMAN STUDIO, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON; M. MARTIN INVITATIONS: TIM HOUT; FENDI BAG, FRAME PLACE SETTING, AND ADAM LIPPES: COURTESY OF DESIGNER; FORTUNY:
COURTESY OF RIZZOLI; MADAME GRES AND GUCCI: GETTY IMAGES; ROBERTO CAPUCCI: MASSIMO LISTRI/CORBIS; MARY MCFADDEN: DEBORAH TURBEVILLE; ISSEY MIYAKE: COURTESY OF ISSEY MIYAKE LONDON PRESS OFFICE
Its So Me
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WE LOVE
ac
ne
Eckhaus Latta
zo
ar
air
n
ce
od
by
co d e v i n
ho
pa
When it comes
to glasses,
designers
are venturing
into some
futuristic
territory.
Vetements
Butt
Seriously
Hood by Air
b
co r a a n n e
Crazy
Eyes
Aphrodite is very
much back in
fashion this season.
InstaGran
Balenciaga
Bea Arthur
and her
Golden Girls
crew (below)
are fashions
newest muses.
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Gucci
Chlo
ACNE, HOOD BY AIR GLASSES, MARCO DE VINCENZO, PACO RABANNE, APHRODITE, ECKHAUS LATTA, VALENTINO, BALENCIAGA, THE
GOLDEN GIRLS, AND JUNYA WATANABE: GETTY IMAGES; HOOD BY AIR RUNWAY: COURTESY OF FASHION TO MAX; ROCHAS: COURTESY OF
THE DESIGNER; GUCCI AND CHLOE: INDIGITAL; VETEMENTS: PIERRE-ANGE CARLOTTI; ILLUSTRATION BY HIROSHI TANABE
Valentino
Junya Watanabe
The continent, as a
whole, offered designers
a wealth of inspiration
this season. And while
Valentino and Junya
Watanabe were taken
to task for their literal
references, they made
up for the offense
with arresting clothes.
Rochas
Out of Africa
Everything Goes!
Marc Jacobs
WE LOVE
A composite of some of
the most extreme beauty
looks: hair by the Blonds,
eyebrows by Maison
Margiela, eyes by Manish
Arora, nose by Vivienne
Westwood, cheeks by
Olympia Le-Tan, lips
by Undercover. Do not
try this at home.
Added
Bonus
A number of
brands expanded
their offerings,
debuting shoe
and/or handbag
collections.
pet
e
rp
tto
ilo
em
simon miller
mugler
Roberto Cavalli
Emilio Pucci
DKNY
erd
ut
hi
er
wmag.com
nd
va
174
ale
xa
re
ILLUSTRATION BY ULI KNORZER; MUGLER: DYLAN LONG; ALL OTHER ACCESSORIES: TIM HOUT, STYLED BY RENATE LINDLAR; CHOW AND OSBORNE, LOVE, CALVIN KLEIN,
DUNDAS, SAINT LAURENT, ROBERTO CAVALLI, DKNY, AND EMILIO PUCCI: GETTY IMAGES; MARC JACOBS: INDIGITAL; GIORGETTI: NEW PRESS/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS
lpozo
de
WE LOVE
Next in Line
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Phelan
Amanda Phelan, 27 (above),
was a knitwear designer
for Alexander Wang before
launching her own label a year
ago. Much like her former
boss, she is fascinated with
technical innovation. Her debut
collection, which she presented
during New York Fashion
Week via a four-woman dance
performance, ventured into
otherworldly terrain: Blue silk
pieces looked like liquid metal,
and sweatshirt-style tops and
minis with a 3-D bubble inlay
resembled a space-age version
of Grandmas popcorn sweaters.
My design is process-driven,
says Phelan, whose love affair
with machinery began after
she transferred from painting
into the textile department at
the Rhode Island School of
Design. Once Im happy with
a stitch, a vision of structure
and drape emerges.
Rochas
Undercover
Creature
Feetures
Alexander McQueen
Area
For us, it is important to do
things that are simple but that
also have a signature, says
Piotrek Panszczyk, 29, who
started Area three years ago
with fellow Parsons School of
Design grad Beckett Fogg, 27
(above, from left). To that end,
the pair employ a patented
fabric process: All of Areas
materials bear a Braille-like
embossment, created by an
80-year-old machine thats more
commonly used on leather than
fabric. And while their textural
T-shirts are their best-sellers,
the designers went in a dressier
direction for spring, with
luxurious silks and crepes cut in
disco shapes and covered with
their signature bubbles, glossy
makeup prints (inspired by old
Irving Penn ads), and 1920s
graphics spelling out doll face,
play time, and high anxiety.
Comeforbreakfast
Antonio Romano, 33, and
Francesco Alagna, 36 (above,
from left), of the unisex Italian
brand Comeforbreakfast,
met after Romano won the
Camera Nazionale della Moda
Italiana Next Generation prize,
in 2009. He had designed a
collection inspired by the small
parts of airplane engines,
Alagna recalls. The two quickly
decided to go into business
together; the name is a nod to
the morning meetings they
had in Milan. For spring, the
duo was influenced by the
uniforms that English laborers
wore during the Second
Industrial Revolution. They
worked hard, but they were
always elegant, Romano says.
He and Alagna reimagined
overalls, shirts, and smocks as
roomy tops with checkerboard
graphics; skirts come with
utilitarian pockets; and an
elegant sleeveless jumpsuit is
ideal for work or play.
Self-Portrait
This three-year-old London line
by the Malaysian-born designer
Han Chong, 36 (above), offers
intricately crafted cocktail
dresses that belie their
affordable prices. No wonder
the label is already big with
party hoppers, and not just
those on a budget: Dasha
Zhukova, Kristen Stewart, and
Miranda Kerr have all been
spotted in Chongs eye-catching
confections. But Chong, who
studied art in Kuala Lumpur
and displayed work at the
2009 Venice Biennalebefore
attending Londons Central
Saint Martins, is capable of
more than just accessible
eveningwear. His spring
collection, which he debuted
at New York Fashion Week,
was a streetwise take on his
signature aesthetic: Jumpsuits,
culottes, and loose slip dresses
in traic-stopping shades
of cobalt and citron looked
cool for day, especially paired
with sporty sandals.
MCQUEEN: INDIGITAL; AREA, PANSZCZYK AND FOGG, COMEFORBREAKFAST, ROMANO AND ALAGNA, PHELAN: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER (2); ROCHAS, FOX, HAMSTER, ARMADILLO, CHONG, UNDERCOVER: GETTY IMAGES
NOW TRENDING
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are signs of a 1990s revival brewing in the cultural zeitgeist. Consider the evidence: Post-feminism is grabbing headlines again;
Trainspotting is slated for a sequel; Surge, the citrus soda, is resurging; were in the midst of another digital boom; and it looks
like the Clintons might be returning to the White House.
The 90s are still pretty fresh, says Helen Molesworth, the
curator of Dont Look Back: The 1990s, an exhibition opening
this month at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles that attempts to makes sense, in artistic terms, of that decade.
The show examines notions of race, gender, sexuality, and identity that prevailed during those years, through works by Roni
Horn, Sarah Sze, Paul McCarthy, and Rene Green, among others. As a result of the fall of the Berlin Wall, in 1989, and the
incredible explosion of the Internet, the world got reorganized,
HAIR BY TAMAS TUZES FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT LATELIER NYC; MAKEUP BY JUNKO KIOKA FOR CHANEL AT JOE MANAGEMENT; MODELS: LOTTIE HAYES AT SUPREME MANAGEMENT, SOFIA TESMENITSKAYA AT
WILHELMINA MODELS; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: BRIAN KANAGAKI; STYLIST ASSISTANT: MEGAN SORIA; DIONS WHEN DINOSAURS RULED THE EARTH (TOYS R U.S.): THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, LOS
ANGELES/GIFT OF PER SKARSTEDT; ROSIE ASSOULIN: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; KOCHE: INDIGITAL; MABEL: JAMIE MORGAN; FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016
STYLE SETTERS
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Sole Mates
WHEN IT COMES TO THE GOOD LIFE,
AQUAZZURA FOUNDERS EDGARDO OSORIO
AND RICARDO DALMEIDA FIGUEIREDO
WALK THE WALK. BY ALEXANDRA MARSHALL
9.
10.
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1: ALEJANDRA DE ROJAS WEARS CHRISTOPHER KANE TOP AND SKIRT; AQUAZZURA SANDALS. SABINE GETTY WEARS ALESSANDRA RICH ROMPER;
AQUAZZURA SANDALS; 4: COURTESY OF AQUAZZURA; 6: TIM HOUT. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016
8.
STYLE SETTERS
1.
1. The flagship
store, in Florence.
2. Sketches in the
Aquazzura design
studio. 3. A sandal
from the spring
2016 collection.
2.
3.
A Step Ahead
4.
5.
HAIR BY GUJA AT ATOMO MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY KARIN BORROMEO AT WM-MANAGEMENT; 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12: COURTESY OF AQUAZZURA: 5, 9: GETTY IMAGES; 8: SPLASH NEWS
6.
4. A rendering of the
New York store. 5. Gigi
Hadid, Osorio, and
Devon Windsor, in Paris,
2014. 6. An optical-art
corner in the London
store. 7. Saloni Lodha,
Eugenie Niarchos,
Osorio, and Nicky Hilton
Rothschild, at the
opening of the London
store, 2015.
13.
7.
9.
8.
11.
10.
12.
Global Footprint
Osorio and DAlmeida Figueiredo are expanding the burgeoning
Aquazzura empire with the same upbeat maximalism evident in their
living quarters. They opened their rst store, in Florence, in 2014, on
the ground oor of the palazzo; a London agship followed last fall;
New York is having its debut this month; and outposts in Macau and
Hong Kong are in the works. I never met a stripe I didnt like, says
Osorio, referring to the decor of the Florence shop, with its pops of
vivid jade green, brass, and its restored frescoes dating from when
a Corsini ran the Vatican as Pope Clement XII. That exuberance
tempered with practicalityclearly extends to his wildly popular
stilettos and ats. Ive always wanted to create shoes that were
positive and happy. Whenever I went to a wedding or a party, girls
kept complaining about their shoes. I love to dance, and I wanted
them to have shoes they could keep on all night.
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193
POWER PLAYER
ORIGINAL XIN
W H EN X I N LI WA S 12, S H E LEF T H ER FA M I LY H O M E I N
194
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HAIR BY BRAYDON NELSON FOR ORIBE HAIR CARE AT JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MAKEUP BY JEN MYLES; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS:
GREGORY WIKSTROM, ROMEK RASENAS; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUCAS DAWSON; LI WEARS ALTUZARRA DRESS; FALLON EARRINGS
POWER PLAYER
This child of
communism
has become
a symbol
of capitalist
success.
196
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daughter, Bea, and Lis best friend, Wendi Murdoch, a pal since Lis
modeling days and her first art client.
Li was nursing a bad cold and had a strained voice. During the
LondonNew YorkHong Kong auction season, she sleeps barely
four hours a night and makes monthly trips to Asia. Still, her manner was warm and upbeat. Hanging on the wall behind us was a
2002 portrait of a wide-eyed, frowning girl by Yoshitomo Nara,
which was about to be replaced by a painting of enigmatic costumed
children that Li had bought from the artist Claire Tabouret. Li had
first seen Tabourets work in 2014, on a visit to the Palazzo Grassi,
in Venice, with Christies owner, Franois Pinault. (She also advises
him on his private collection of contemporary Chinese art.) Last
fall, Li surprised Cohen for his birthday with a Tabouret portrait of
Elvis Presley, which now leans against a bookcase stuffed with LPs,
family pictures, and art catalogs. I asked if shes having an impact
on his art preferences. I dont want to change Lyors taste, just like
I dont try to change my clients tastes, she replied. I get to know
them really well, and I listen and learn with them.
Lis job is to find the most coveted works of artand the Asian
collectors willing to drop $100 million for them. Her core group
of 10 clients is primarily female, self-made, and entrepreneurial.
Their trajectory is not unlike her own. When she moved to Paris
to become a model, she spoke only Mandarin and spent months
by herself, listening intently to people talking in cafs, trying to
figure out what their story was, she said. Everything was culture
shock. To fill her time, she started going to museums.
Not surprisingly, she sees herself as a bridge between China and
the Western art world. She understands the Chinese and Western way of thinking, Murdoch says. Its unique to know how to
work in both cultures and make things happen. Plus, shes very
smart, hardworking, passionate, and just super trustworthythat
combination is really hard to find. Another of Lis strengths is her
ability to lead her clients to artists they havent heard of by pointing out shared sensibilities. She introduced one collector focused
on Chinese calligraphy to the brushwork of the Abstract Expressionist Franz Kline; another, who relished Marc Chagalls use of
color, developed a hankering for the slashed monochrome masterpieces of the Italian modernist Lucio Fontana.
LI AND COHEN: PATRICK MCMULLAN; ETRO: FIRST VIEW; LI AND MURDOCH: BFA/SIPA USA/NEWSCOM; FORBIDDEN CITY: COURTESY OF LI; FAR LEFT: LI WEARS VALENTINO
JACKET; MAX MARA TOP AND JUMPSUIT; FALLON EARRINGS; HER OWN RING. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016
HAIR BY SHERIDAN WARD AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY OZZY SALVATIERRA FOR CLARINS AT STREETERS; MANICURIST NETTIE DAVIS; MODEL: MIA KANG AT TRUMP MODELS; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: JEFFREY VOGEDING, KEVIN BATISTA; FASHION ASSISTANT: KIRSTEN LAYNE ALVAREZ;
A$AP ROCKY WEARS GUESS ORIGINALS X A$AP ROCKY JACKET, T-SHIRT, AND OVERALLS; ADIDAS ORIGINALS SNEAKERS. MODEL WEARS GUESS ORIGINALS X A$AP ROCKY JACKET AND TANK; GUESS JEANS. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016
OLD SCHOOL
Throwback Jam
IN A COLLABORATION WITH GUESS, A $AP ROCKY
REMIXES THE BRANDS CLASSICS WITH SWAGGER.
sportswear brand Guess was so torrid, it felt like life and death.
When I dress, its never nothing less than Guess, Nas rapped
on his 1994 album, Illmatic. The desperate resorted to bootlegs, as
Andr 3000 pointed out in a 2000 interview: Some fake Guess
sew the Guess sign on some Gap jeans. If you werent careful, you
might have even been mugged for the triangular patch on the back
of your distressed jeans. People were ignorant enough to literally
kill someone over it, A$AP Rocky recalls. The 27-year-old musician grew up in Harlem surrounded by Guess loyalistseven
his parents wore Guess.
These days, the artist who bragged, I spent $20,000 with my
partners in Bahamas/Another $20,000 on Rick Owens out in
Barneys, may be second only to Kanye West in his devotion to
ultra-high-end labels, but he hasnt lost any love for the clothes of
his youth. After years of trolling consignment shops and eBay for
vintage Guess, Rocky finally approached the brand about working together to revive seminal pieces from the 80s and 90s. I had
this urge for people to appreciate and acknowledge what Guess
stood for, he says. Then I was like, Why dont I be that guy?
Guess Originals x A$AP Rocky leans heavily on acid wash,
pinstripes, and that signature triangle logo, updated with some
Rocky flourishes (the telltale sign is the spelling: GUE$$). The
womens capsule collection, which includes high-rise shorts,
overalls, and denim swimwear, is sexy and fun, successfully
straddling nostalgia and irony. (Banking on its success, Guess is
lining up more Originals collaborations.) But dont expect Rocky
to be showing his own designs on the runway, la Kanye, anytime soon. Im not a designer, he clarifies. I just know whats
dope.
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199
Matthew Freud,
at home in
London, with a
sign from
Paramount
Studios and his
dog, Vincent.
Wish Fulfillment
MATTHEW FREUD IS FINALLY ON HIS
OWN TURF, IN A MODERNIST HOUSE
WHERE EVERY PIECE OF ART HAS A
BACKSTORY. BY WILLIAM SHAW
202
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London home, one is tempted to interpret his impressive collection as part of an ongoing struggle to define himself as his
own man. Tucked away in the dining room is a cluster of framed
Austrian banknotes that bear the head of his great-grandfather
Sigmund Freud. Nestled among the Warhols and Picassos, the
Grayson Perrys and Bill Violas, are dozens of prints, paintings,
and photographs by and of his uncle, the great British artist
Lucian Freud.
Mention them and Freud says, curtly, Look. Thats not for
today.
Collecting
is about the
personal
narrative,
Freud says.
People have
forgotten
that you live
with art.
wmag.com
203
Top: A George
Nakashima
bench. Below: A
Grayson Perry
work adds punch
to a bar designed
by Paul Brown;
the lounge chair is
Eames Brothers.
wmag.com
205
IT GIRL
3
4
1. Grant wears Missoni dress;
A Peace Treaty earring.
2. Derek Lam pants.
3. Mizuki earrings. 4. One of
Grants top literary picks.
5. Her portrait of the tailor
Martin Greenfield for the
magazine Fantastic Man.
6. Tods bag. 7. Her photo of
her sister, Lana Del Rey.
8. Grants grandparents on
their wedding day, 1951.
10
9. Peter Pilotto dress.
10. Rosie Assoulin top and
pants; Arme De LAmour
earrings; Hunting Season
bag; her own ring. 11. An
image of Alana Champion
and Lily-Rose Depp
from Grants upcoming
book about Persephone.
12. A self-portrait. 13. Noor
Fares necklace. 14. Sonia
by Sonia Rykiel sweater.
2
11
Rainbow Bright
15
18
16
15. Chet Baker, one of her
favorite musicians. 16. A
Galore cover of Charli XCX,
shot by Grant. 17. Chanel
bag; Mikuti cuff; Marni top;
Chlo pants. 18. Fratelli
Rossetti sneakers. For stores,
prices, and more, go to
Wmag.com/where-to-buymarch-2016.
208
wmag.com
17
13
12
14
HAIR BY IAN JAMES AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY SAGE MAITRI AT THE WALL GROUP; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: CONNOR HUGHES; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: SEAN COSTELLO, GREGORY BROUILLETTE; FASHION ASSISTANT:
KENDALL FINZER; 3: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; 4: COURTESY OF SCRIBNER; 5, 7, 8, 11, 12: COURTESY OF GRANT; 15: METRONOME/GETTY IMAGES; 16: COURTESY OF GALORE; 2, 6, 9, 13, 14, 18: TIM HOUT, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON
WHATS HOT
Stripe
It Rich
PROP STYLIST: JANINE IVERSEN
Shoulder On
BRACE YOURSELF FOR
SPRINGS BIG REVEAL.
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HAIR BY ROLANDO BEAUCHAMP FOR ORIBE AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY KRISTI MATAMOROS FOR MAKE UP FOREVER AT FRANK REPS; MANICURE BY HOLLY FALCONE FOR DIOR AT KATE RYAN INC.;
MODEL: RILEY MONTANA AT NEXT MANAGEMENT; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: DON BRODIE; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: DEAN PODMORE, DREW VICKERS; FASHION ASSISTANT: KYLE HAYES
WHATS HOT
HOT PROPERTY
Lighten
Up
STARK-WHITE
ACCESSORIES HAVE
A WAY OF LIFTING
EVEN THE BLUEST
OF MOODS.
HAIR BY KAYLA MICHELE FOR WELLA PROFESSIONALS AT STREETERS NY; MAKEUP BY FRANKIE BOYD AT TIM HOWARD MANAGEMENT; MANICURES BY RICA ROMAIN AT LMC WORLDWIDE; SET DESIGN BY BETTE ADAMS AT MARY HOWARD STUDIO; MODELS: LINE BREMS AT SILENT MODELS NY,
DAGA ZIOBER AT THE SOCIETY MANAGEMENT; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: WARD PRICE; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: JAMES SCHIEBERL, SAM DONG, DEBORAH AOUATE; HAIR ASSISTANT: JOSEPH TORRES; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: JEFFERSON SANTIAGO; SET DESIGN ASSISTANTS: DAVID CADDO, GREG HUFF
HOT PROPERTY
HOLLYWOOD NIGHTS
Rodartes Kate and Laura Mulleavy admit they can become obsessive to the point
of insanity. They definitely had bouts of
crazy while creating their capsule line for
& Other Stories, which hits stores this
month. I think we had 300 conversations
about the Lurex yarn, says Kate, sporting
Fowl Play
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Inspired by antique finds and hand-carved from uncommon materials, Of Rare Origins
witty and wildly imaginative creations are not easily categorized. The word jewelry
seems a bit too precious, says the lines designer, Leslie Tcheyan, a former consultant to
Verdura. I see them as artisanal miniatures. Certainly, theyre conversation starters.
Editors have lately been atwitter over the debut collection of birdcage earrings; equally
captivating flowerpot and hot airballoon stylesthe latter complete with diamond
burners and South Sea pearl sandbagsare in the pipeline. The challenge is taking
these cute things and creating beautiful objects out of them. ..
Photographs by BEN GRIEME Styled by ALEX HARRINGTON
HAIR BY TAMAS TUZES FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT LATELIER NYC; MAKEUP BY JUNKO KIOKA FOR CHANEL AT JOE MANAGEMENT; SET DESIGN: JULIA WAGNER; MODEL: CHLOE WHEATCROFT AT MUSE MANAGEMENT; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: BRIAN KANAGAKI; FASHION ASSISTANT:
MEGAN SORIA; CENTER: MODEL WEARS RODARTE & OTHER STORIES DRESS, TOP, AND TIGHTS. RIGHT: MODEL WEARS RODARTE & OTHER STORIES JACKET, SHIRT, AND SKIRT. FOWL PLAY: GORMAN STUDIO. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016
WHATS HOT
WHATS HOT
Bathing Beauties
Quentin Jones, a British artist who has worked with Louis Vuitton and
Chanel, is applying her modern surrealist aesthetic to a range of swimsuits
for the boutique label Araks. Between Joness slapdash collages and graffiti
prints and designer Araks Yeramyans streamlined silhouettes, the eyecatching maillots are sure to make waves. ..
Araks x Quentin
Jones swimsuit
($320, araks.com).
PERFECT TEN
TO CELEBRATE HER ANNIVERSARY, JENNIFER FISHER IS TURNING UP THE CHARM.
AMERICAN SPIRIT
AS A T EENAGER I N PARIS I N T H E 90 S ,
Sandrine Rose Abessera spent her weekends scouring the citys famed flea markets
for the perfect American jeans. Two decades later, the designer, who lives in L.A.,
is launching Sandrine Rose, a denim line
that takes aesthetic cues from her travels.
A trip to Joshua Tree National Park, the
work of London ceramist Susan Nemeth,
and a T-shirt Abessera came across in
Mexico all informed the sunbaked washes
and vibrant embroideries. I take little
parts from everywhere, says Abessera, 38,
who includes an image of her inspiration
on the hangtags. Its a very free and fun
process.
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From left:
A photo by
Abessera, taken
near Joshua
Tree, California;
Sandrine Rose
jeans ($278, Ron
Herman, L.A.).
ARAKS: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; JENNIFER FISHER JEWELRY: TIM HOUT; THRIFT STORE: COURTESY OF ABESSERA; JEANS: TIM HOUT, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON
HOME BODIES
Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh, who designs the luxe streetwear
brand Off-White, may only be five seasons into his
fashion career, but hes already diversifying.
He recently worked with an Italian manufacturer
on a limited-edition collection of furniture,
including an armchair, a marble-top dining table,
and a bench constructed from metal gridseach
piece grounded in the graphic aesthetic and
modernist principles of his clothes. With fashion,
you find solace in the quick ideas, Abloh says.
But for me, these are the real concrete ideas
something that lives in peoples homes.
Left: A look from
CristaSeyas sixth
fashion edition. Below:
A Giacomo Alessi
vase for CristaSeya.
Interior Motives
Sophie Buhai
After returning from New York to her
native L.A., the former Vena Cava
designer Sophie Buhai launched a line of
architectural jewelry and design objects,
like marble eggs and ikebana vases. I
dont like being put in a box, she says.
I feel very free doing this project; there
is no fashion calendar. If I dont want
to show a project, I dont have to.
CristaSeya
In real life, you dont change every six months, says
Keiko Seya, one half of the Parisian lifestyle project
CristaSeya. You want something you can keep
forever, something you can wear or use every day.
To that end, Seya and her design partner, the Italian
stylist Cristina Casini, have teamed up with artists
like the Sicilian ceramist Giacomo Alessi and the
Swiss knitwear brand Ikou Tschuss to produce a
variety of collectible objects such as upside-down
head vases and one-of-a kind indigo cushions, which
they sell alongside their simple, relaxed clothes. For
the next edition (they dont work in seasons), the two
have partnered with a Greek ceramist on a series of
vessels inspired by African braids.
Camilla Staerk
222
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Shirt n
Sweet
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
EMMA TEMPEST
STYLED BY
ETHEL PARK
GAINSBOURG AND BIRKIN, DIESEL BLACK GOLD: GETTY IMAGES; FANNY AND ALEXANDER: COURTESY OF GAUMONT
PRETTY WOMAN: COURTESY OF TOUCHSTONE PICTURES; HERRERA: MAT SZWAJKOS/GETTY IMAGES; BONET: CARSEY-WERNER/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION; JOSEPH: VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO/GETTY IMAGES; AN EDUCATION: KERRY BROWN/SONY PICTURES CLASSICS/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION
DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: ALEX VERRON; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: MATTHEW WASH, CHRIS PARENTE; FASHION ASSISTANT: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN; JOHNSON: BARBARA BERSELL; JACQUEMUS: VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO/GETTY IMAGES; RAMPLING: 20TH CENTURY FOX FILM CORP/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION
A Full Plait
FOR SPRING, HAIR IS FIT TO BE TIED.
Braids were the must-do at dozens of spring 2016 shows, from the schoolgirl plaits at Proenza Schouler to the laissez-faire
French styles at Suno to the bold cornrows at Valentino. Braids have become cool again, says the hairstylist Holli Smith,
who created the coifs on these pages. Theyre informal and more inventive than ever. Here, Smith took the Valentino look
as a starting point and added her own twist, in the form of a ponytail full of mini fishtails and micro braids, punctuated
by wide loops and partially liberated strands. Together, the two elements make for a balanced statement.
Anthony Vaccarello top; David Yurman earrings. Beauty note: For skin that steals the spotlight, try Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream SPF 30.
HAIR BY HOLLI SMITH FOR WELLA PROFESSIONALS AT LGA MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY FARA HOMIDI AT FRANK REPS; MANICURE BY DAWN STERLING FOR DIOR AT MAM-NYC; MODEL: HYUN JI SHIN AT
IMG MODELS; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: HUGO ARTURI; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: BASIL FAUCHER, CRISTIAS ROSAS; HAIR ASSISTANT: YASU NAKAMURA; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: LAILA HAYANI
Proenza Schouler
Louis Vuitton
It keeps things from looking too slick. (To prevent hair from
turning into a tangled mess, theres Wella Professionals Eimi
Perfect Me Lightweight Beauty Balm Lotion, and a little
Eimi Sugar Lift Spray applied on the end imparts that gritty,
disheveled effect you actually do want.) Micro braids were
also seen at Louis Vuitton, though well hidden among the
models otherwise free-owing locks. Smith did exactly
the opposite here (above, left), weaving most of the hair into
two low plaits just behind the ears, then pulling out full strands
seemingly at random. The messy deconstruction is more
interesting than two perfect braids, Smith says. For the third
look (above, right), she began with a low side part and twisted
the strands before braiding them along the hairline, creating
a sort of corkscrewed cornrow. The placement has a Heidi
element, but the twists within the rows de-Heidi it. And, she
insists, its easier to execute than it looks. Anyone who can
French-braid their own hair can do this.
1979
1980
1993
1993
Inger Nilsson
as Pippi
Longstocking
Bo Derek in 10
Donna Summer
Janet Jackson
Christina Ricci
as Wednesday
Addams
1994
2001
2005
2015
2015
Tonya Harding
Alicia Keys
Snoop Dogg
Emilia Clarke
as Daenerys
Targaryen
Zo Kravitz
Mara Hoffman
Vivetta
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Vanessa Seward
LOUIS VUITTON, MARA HOFFMAN, PROENZA SCHOULER, VANESSA SEWARD, VIVETTA, NILSSON, SUMMER, JACKSON, HARDING, KEYS, SNOOP DOGG, KRAVITZ: GETTY IMAGES; VALENTINO: GORUNWAY; DEREK:
ORION/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION; RICCI: MARY EVANS/PARAMOUNT PICTURES/RONALD GRANT/EVERETT COLLECTION; CLARKE: MACALL B. POLAY/HBO/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION
Lip Sync
Better Red
Talking Points
Vacation in a Bottle
The list of places I want to explore is constantly
growing. These scents are the next best thing to
hopping on a plane (right, from left).
Aerin Mediterranean Honeysuckle ($110,
nordstrom.com): Grapefruit, Italian bergamot,
and the namesake ower transport me to cocktails
on the terrace at the Belmond Hotel Splendido,
in Portono, Italy.
Clean Reserve Terra Woods ($90, sephora.com):
This woodsy geraniumandjasmine sambac mix is
what I imagine the Swedish archipelago will smell
like when I visit next year.
Memo Paris Marfa ($250, bergdorfgoodman.com):
White musk anchors this tuberose-andorange
blossom scent inspired by the artsy Texas border town.
The Fragrance Kitchen Palm Fiction ($320,
bergdorfgoodman.com): Bergamot, leather, and salt
notes invoke the lush wallpaper and chic banquettes
at the Beverly Hills Hotel.
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Cheekbones
Not Included
One of lifes unfair truths is that
Gwyneth Paltrow is even more
radiant in person than on the screen.
Fortunately, shes out to help us with her new
skincare line, Goop by Juice Beauty. (Shes
also the creative director of Juice Beautys
makeup collection.) I wanted to create what
I missed having in my bathroom, says Paltrow
(above), whose line taps the cells from poets
daffodil and iris to tackle wrinkles and
brighten skin. Theres a day moisturizer, a
night cream, an eye cream, a cleansing balm,
an exfoliating scrub, and a face oil (inset,
$110, goop.com). Im such a face-oil junkie,
she says, laughing. So this one had to be
the ultimate. We went through about 13 tries
before we got it right. If that glowing
complexion is any indication, she did.
Frank Advice
It seems I could use more
ubuntu in my life. Ubuntu
means altruism in Xhosa,
and author and integrativeholistic doctor Frank
Lipman says not having
enough of it could be one of
10 Reasons You Feel Old
and Get Fat ($25, Hay
House, bewell.com). His
book also has healthy recipes
and exercise tips, but rst
Ill conquer ubuntu.
LIP SYNC: CLAUDIA & STEFAN/TRUNK ARCHIVE; ILLUSTRATIONS: SINE JENSEN; PALTROW AND GOOP BY JUICE BEAUTY: COURTESY OF THE BRAND; BOOK: COURTESY OF HAY HOUSE INC.; PALM FICTION: COURTESY OF THE BRAND; ALL OTHER STILL LIFES: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
JANES ADDICTION
JANES ADDICTION
Stay Gold
Walking out of the salon with a fresh
head of highlights is like driving off the
lot with a new carthe value starts to
depreciate almost immediately. These
products help protect your investment.
Sachajuan Hair Cleansing Cream
($42, barneys.com): Sea algae and
vegetable-oil wax make for a foamand sulfate-free way to clean strands.
StriVectin Hair Color Care Vibrancy
Booster ($27, strivectin.com): Nia-114,
the energizing molecule in this brands
skincare, also stars in a hair-care
line, which includes a rinse-off glaze
that guards against UV rays.
Schwarzkopf Professional
BC Color Freeze Gloss Serum ($21,
loxabeauty.com): This serum seals
in pigment and reduces frizz.
Pantene Expert Intense Color Care
Conditioner ($5, pantene.com):
The companys fabled Pro-V Molecular
Technology protects color while
imparting softness.
BLNDN Tone You Anti-Brassiness
Treatment ($42, blndn.com):
This intense purple mask keeps
discoloration at bay.
LOral Paris Root Cover Up ($11,
lorealparis.com): A pointed nozzle
ensures that color goes only where you
want it: So no risk of hair-color freckles
on your faceor gunk in your scalp.
Crme de la Crme
As an haute couture house, Chanel
would never create a one-size-ts-all
face cream. It already offers the rich and
velvety Sublimage La Crme Texture
Suprme and La Crme Texture Fine,
which goes on like silk. But on my recent
visit to the Chanel labs outside Paris
(top), chemists explained how they saw
an opportunity to create yet another
texture for the collection, and voil!,
La Crme ($400, chanel.com)
think silk jerseywas born. The key
ingredient in all three is hydrating
and brightening Madagascar-grown
vanilla planifolia, but, if you ask me,
the newest formula is just right.
Im not a God-fearing person, but I do nd the smell of churches captivating. So I literally swooned
over Inspiritvs scents and candles. Having grown up in Italy, I have strong memories of being a
part of religious processions and of churches lled with candles and incense, says the lines cofounder
Luca Calvani, who in his day job as an actor has appeared in Woody Allens To Rome With Love and
Guy Ritchies The Man From U.N.C.L.E. Inspiritv alludes to in spirit in Latin, adds the fashion
guru Olivia Mariotti, his partner in the venture (both left). We all share a journey of self-discovery
and a quest for spiritual growth thats beyond any religion or belief. Each of the ve eau de parfums,
which come in ornately etched and painted ligree-capped bottles, celebrates a virtuethough, if you
ask me, a couple of them might qualify as vice. Temperantia, for example, is spicy, and Fortitvdo is a
bold cedar with animalic notes. LVX is heavy on the incense, but you dont have to have been raised
Catholic to appreciate it. As Mariotti points out, Incense is universal to any spiritual practice.
Amen to that. (Below: eau de parfums, $210 each, and candles, $130 each, barneys.com.)
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STAY GOLD: SONNY VANDEVELDE; TAKE ME TO CHURCH: ALESSANDRO MOGGI; ALL OTHER STILL LIFES: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
Take Me to Church
Leap of Faith
PAUL JOHNSON DOESNT BELIEVE IN
EASY CHAIRS. ALIX BROWNE MEETS THE
HARDEST-WORKING MAN IN DESIGN.
THIS IS IT, PAUL JOHNSON SAYS, STANDING IN THE NAVE OF
needed to, says Johnson, who has since added a power substation
and a warehouse to his holdings there. And just as those Max
Lamb pewter stools found owners (Rower is the single largest collector of Lambs work), starting in April, Woods Cathedral will
have an occupant. Moran Bondaroff, the Los Angeles contemporary art gallery, will take it over for a year, kicking off a series of
gallery residencies around the world. According to co-owner Al
Moran, the idea was nascent until Johnson showed him photos of
the church. The space clinched it, he says. They made a gentlemans agreement that Johnson would fix the place up.
Johnson has also strongly encouraged his designers, no matter
what city they work in, to build security for themselves by investing in their own studios. For the moment, Craig is working out of
a side room in Woods Cathedral, where in late October it was already so cold we were forced to huddle around the torch he uses
to melt PVC pipe. Johnson plans to turn the warehouse over to
himas soon as he figures out how to dispose of the fleet of abandoned vintage cars and other junk he discovered stashed inside it.
For his part, Rower says he wishes that Johnson were more of a
businessman. Its hard to buy from me, Ive heard a lot of people
say, Johnson admits. Ive never pitched anything. I have no right
to tell anyone something is greatthey have to think its great.
Then they will pay for it. In some crucial way, Johnson may always be a picker at heart. Recently, Rower became enthralled
with 19th-century Venetian grotto furniture. After almost a twoyear search, Johnson finally found him a trophy chair: a seashell
on a pedestal base that looks like a relic from a Busby Berkeley under-the-sea extravaganza. I made $350 on that sale, but I
didnt care, Johnson says. I was so proud just to have found it.
ON SET
STARRING
George Clooney
Josh Brolin
Tilda Swinton
Scarlett Johansson
Channing Tatum
Ralph Fiennes
OPENS
February 5
Hail, Caesar!
BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE COEN
BROTHERS STAR-STUDDED ROMP
THROUGH OLD HOLLYWOOD.
wmag.com
A M O N G T H E T H U G S W H O H AV E R U N HOLLY WO OD FROM
the shadows, Eddie Mannix stood out as one of the first fixers at
MGM during the golden age of movies. In Hail, Caesar!, the latest comedy from Joel and Ethan Coen, Mannix, played by Josh
Brolin, is on the hunt for Baird Whitlock (George Clooney), a star
gone missing from the set of a Roman epic, as a pair of reporters
(both played by Tilda Swinton) sniff out the scandal. As Mannix
stomps around the studio lot, we see other films being made, as
well as their stars. In addition to Clooney, whos a dead ringer for
Tony Curtis in 1960s Spartacus, there is Channing Tatum dancing in a sailor suit reminiscent of Gene Kellys in 1945s Anchors
Aweigh; Scarlett Johansson wiggling underwater like Esther Williams in 1952s Million Dollar Mermaid; and Alden Ehrenreich as
a John Waynelike cowboy. It was fun to shoot, says Roger Deakins, the director of photography who has worked on more than a
dozen films with the Coens. We stayed true to the styles of the era,
but we didnt want to make an homage to filmmaking. The trick is
that it fits together as a whole.
Topshop coat; Prada sweater vest; Miu Miu tiara; CZ by Kenneth Jay Lane rings.
n a Wednesday night in mid-December, Selena Gomez was sequestered inside a cinder block dressing
room deep in the bowels of Chicagos Allstate Arena,
where she was performing at the annual Jingle Ball,
a yuletide-tinged Lollapalooza for the teen set. She
had just finished the meet and greet, during which
she embraced, with practiced efficiency and unflagging enthusiasm, around 100 fortunate attendees in
less than five minutes. She had two hours to kill before taking the stage. She was hungry. Having spent the better part of the day
at Gomezs side, I had come to understand her as someone governed by a variety of appetites, most of them complicated in ways that few of her fans (aka
Selenators, defined by the Urban Dictionary as people who love Selena Gomez and support her in everything she does) could relate to. We had already
spoken at considerable length about the cravings that have consumed her for
the past year: controlling her destiny, defining herself as an adult, and distancing herself from the emotional tornado that is her ex, Justin Bieber. At present,
however, Gomez sought a more primal form of sustenance.
Chick-fil-A, she said. How amazing does that sound?
She is a tiny young woman, giving the impression of being pocket-size,
who, in person, emits the coiled energy of a Thoroughbred and sheds much of
the adolescent softness that clings to her in red-carpet photographs, in which
she often looks like a doll. Her hair, thick and bouncy and the color of dark
chocolate, seemed, even in the windowless room, to be reflecting California
sunbeams. She was wearing a cotton-rib peplum top and matching skirt designed by Victoria Beckhaminformation I knew not because I am observant,
but because, while sitting next to her, I Googled What is Selena Gomez wearing? and discovered that the outfit was already being dissected on Twitter.
Surrounding her in the room were various members of her team: hair, makeup,
security, assistant. Using their cell phones, arguably the most critical weapon in
cultivating and disseminating the Gomez brand, they began searching for the
closest branch of the fast-food chain known for its tasty chicken sandwiches
and aggressive right-wing politics.
Theres one 40 minutes from here, her assistant, Theresa Mingus, said.
Yum, Gomez said.
Want me to go?
I want to go.
Well, you cant. You have to be onstage.
I just want to get out of here for a bit.
The urge was understandable. The room was cramped and very cold. More to
the point, Gomez, 23, has spent much of her life in such placesthe charmless
antechambers where the famous are primed for public consumption. She landed
her first gig at 7, on PBS Kids Barney & Friends, and by 14 was known to millions of prepubescent youths as Alex Russo, the sarcastic wizard-in-training
on Wizards of Waverly Place, a Disney show that ran for five years, reaching
163 countries. Emanating a cherubic beauty thats equal parts exotic and nonthreatening, with a streak of sass complementing a disarming vulnerability,
Gomez emerged, along with Disney cohorts Miley Cyrus and Demi Lovato,
as a new breed of star, harnessing a preternatural fluency with social media to
pollinate her brand across a number of platforms: television, music, film, and
the requisite midmarket clothing line (Dream Out Loud by Selena Gomez, a
partnership with Kmart). Gomezs success can be measured by her net worth,
reportedly around $20 million, but also, perhaps more tellingly, by her legions
of followers on Instagram. They currently number more than 60millionmore
than Kim, more than Bey, more than twice the population of the state of Texas,
where Gomez was born and raised.
And yet, if you are not an adolescent (or the parent of one), you may have
only a faint understanding of Gomez as a uniquely bright star in an otherwise
foreign solar system. She embodies a particular strain of American fame: You
know who she is without quite knowing who she is. Earlier in the day, she and
I had met in the penthouse lounge of her hotel, where I confessed that my familiarity with her rsum was limited. I knew her as the dewy-eyed girl who
dated Justin Bieber, and who costarred in 2013s Spring Breakers, Harmony
Korines debauched commentary on American values, in which her role was
deemed subversive precisely because she was the dewy-eyed girl who dated
Justin Bieber. Gomez was hardly offended. It seemed, in fact, that she had spent
much of the past few years not quite knowing who she was either.
Once Disney was over, I was like: Oh, shit, Gomez told me. I didnt know
what I wanted to be. I had to learn to be myself.
That was a challenge, given that her post-Disney years dovetailed with her
Bieber years, a topic Gomez referred to often and freely without ever mentioning his name. She did this not to be coy, I suspect, but because she assumed
(correctly) that the Internet had provided me with the salient details: the early
days of a very real and innocent love giving way to the on/off years that were
turbulent at best, soul-dismantling at worst. As Bieber reinvented himself as the
tattooed personification of pseudo-gangsta teenage rebellion, Gomez became
an unwitting bystander onto whom tabloids projected a variety of unsavory
narratives, feeding the nations insatiable need to see how long it takes for the
famous, and the young and famous in particular, to turn to ash under the rays
of lurid curiosity. At first I didnt care, she said of the sudden scrutiny of her
personal life. To me it was: Im 18, I have a boyfriend, we look cute together,
we like that. Then I got my heart broken and I cared. Because people had no
idea what was going on, but everywhere it was a million different things. She
paused. I was kind of in a corner, banging my head against the wall. I didnt
know where to go.
Gomez spoke with a kind of analytical detachment, like a therapist reading over the notes of a patient, never sounding remotely wounded or cynical,
so much as wise. While talking to her, I often had the sensation of trying, and
failing, to relate to a grown-up, which was odd since Im more than a decade
her senior and have seen my share of bullshit. Then again, my bullshit has been
mine and mine alone, and the cauldron of showbiz ages its charges in curious
ways. When Gomez was 18, for instance, she told a writer for this magazine
that the age she felt closest to was 15, which surprised me. Ive been raised
around adults, but Im still very naive, she said at the time, sounding like the
groomed and stunted product of the Disney tween machine. Reminding her
of this, I asked what age she related to now. I probably feel, like, 40? she replied, letting the thought linger before releasing a burst of throaty laughter.
As part of her quest to learn to be myself, Gomez has made a number of
changes in her life in the past couple of years. She replaced her manager, her
mom, Mandy Teefey, with one of her choosing, which was not easy, because it
gave tabloids an excuse to write that she had fired her mother, implying divisive family drama where there was none. I was like, Mom, I gotta figure it out
on my own, recalled Gomez, who lived with her mother, stepfather, and half
sister until 2014, when she moved into a Los Angeles spread with two close
friends. It was the kid-going-to-college moment in my mind. In pursuit of a
less treacly public image, she cut ties with Kmart and designed a capsule collection for Adidas, all while landing roles in diverse films: a cameo in The Big
Short, another in the forthcoming comedy Neighbors 2: Sorority Rising, and a
lead in the indie drama The Fundamentals of Caring, which recently premiered
at Sundance. I know that I can go into a room and convince someone that I
can be a character, Gomez said. Ill cut my hair, Ill shave it, Ill dye it. Id go
there in order for people to let Selena go. (Given that she recently signed an
endorsement deal with Pantene, reportedly worth $3 million, one imagines
she would be contractually bound to find a less drastic means to such ends.)
While Gomez aspires to one day be known solely for her acting, it is through
music that she has discovered the most immediate exit Continued on page 263
IM SO EXHAUSTED, GOMEZ
SAID OF JUSTIN BIEBER.
I HONESTLY AM SO DONE.
I CARE ABOUT HIS HEALTH
AND WELL-BEING. BUT
I CANT DO IT ANYMORE.
Chanel pullover; JJ
Hat Center hat.
Beauty note: Enjoy
some fringe benefits
with Marc Jacobs
Beauty Feather Noir
Ultra-Skinny
Lash-Discovering
Mascara.
strategy from the saccharine incubator in which her career was hatched. She
parted ways with Hollywood Records, the pop branch of Disney, where she had
recorded three gold records and issued a greatest-hits compilation, and signed
with Interscope. Last October she released Revival, a title that would be absurd for any other 20-something. Debuting at No. 1, the album earned her an
invitation to perform at the Victorias Secret fashion show and nudged her into
territory occupied by Rihanna, Katy Perry, and Taylor Swifther longtime
friend and informal career adviser. Unlike Cyrus, who slithered out of her own
Disney husk as brashly as possiblereplacing the purity rings with cigarettes
and transforming herself into a kind of gender-neutral sex dollGomez has
taken a subtler route. On Revival, she is frisky and sensual and a touch angry
about the Bieber-tinged past, declaring in the breakout single Same Old Love
that Im so sick of that same old love, that shit, it tears me up. But she remains goofy and sincere enough to avoid alienating fans who are still in braces.
Every single girl has done it completely differently, she told me when asked
to compare her transition with Cyruss. Obviously, she wouldnt want to be
doing what Im doing, and I wouldnt want to be doing what shes doing. But
Im a fan of her musicI dont know if shed say that about me. Before meeting Gomez, I had read an exhaustive timeline documenting her heated feud
with Cyrus and couldnt help but wonder if (scoop!) I was being treated to a sly
dig. We never feuded, she assured me. We both liked the same guy when we
were 16. It was just a Hilary DuffLindsay Lohan thing: Oh, my God, we like
the same boy! We are now completely settled in our own lives.
And what about Bieber? A month after Gomez put out Revival, he released
Purpose, a kind of album as indulgent forgiveness plea, with much of his winsome apologizing aimed at her. When I broached the subject, she replied with
a deep sigh. Im so exhausted, she said. I honestly am so done. I care about
his health and well-being. But I cant do it anymore.
n the dressing room at the arena, Gomez remained intent on finding food and temporary escape before going onstage and had taken
it upon herself to locate a more viable option.
Theres a McDonalds half a mile away, she announced after consulting Google Maps on her phone. Can we go there?
She was not really asking. With her new team, she is relaxed and
jokey, but she is very much in charge, the puppet master where she
was once the puppet. Within a minute, she and I, along with her assistant, were being ushered out of the stadium and into the frigid night,
where a black SUV had been stealthily summoned via walkie-talkiea spontaneous outing, carefully choreographed. Near the vehicle, a cluster of kids stood
shivering. Had they detected our exit the way canines can hear certain highpitched frequencies? At the sight of Gomez, they erupted into shrieks, using
their phones to take photos and videos to be uploaded onto Facebook, Snapchat, Instagram, and Twitter.
My favorite is when they FaceTime, Gomez said, waving to the group as
we passed.
It is impossible to overstate the importance of mobile technology and social media when it comes to understanding the Gomez phenomenon. She has
enough vocal chops to carry a candy pop anthem, and may very well prove herself an actress with range, but what she can do with unrivaled skill is connect. In
person, she radiates a sincerity so infectious that I found myself sharing with
her plenty of information about my personal life, which is exactly how she
communicates with fans, albeit with tens of millions all at once. In the process
of interacting with them, of course, she also diminishes the leechy power of
the paparazzi and gossip columnists to shape her public identity, guaranteeing
that whatever she posts will supersede anything else. Im utilizing social media
right now because of my age and because, to be honest, everybody else in the
world was talking about me, so I wanted a fucking say, she had told me earlier. I honestly had to, because I didnt really expect my life to be as public as
it was. Is this going to destroy me or make me? I still have to make that choice
on a daily basis. While she recognizes social media as a necessary tool for this
phase in her life, she is not wed to it. If youre skimming this article for scoops,
here you go: In a few years, she confided, Ill give all of it up.
As we made our way to the McDonalds, Gomez noticed a Chilis in the same
strip mall. Her eyes widened. Yesss! she said. I love Chilis. Taylor and I eat
here all the time. (They really dogo ahead, Google it.)
The SUV stopped. Her security detail hopped out first, scanning the restaurant and securing a table for us in a secluded corner. As we sat down,
Gomez, who was raised by a teenage mother and retains visceral recall of the
days when money was tight, was clearly in her element. I had to learn to like
fancy food, she said.
The restaurant was, for the most part, empty, but it didnt take long for other
diners to notice Gomezs presence. She was in full celebrity getup, a radiant
spectacle, and as we spoke, people made their way over, asking for selfies, for
autographs, for hugs. Gomez did not betray a trace of annoyance during those
repeated interruptions. She posed, she signed, she hugged, she related. I noted
that her fans seem oddly comfortable around her. Yeah, Gomez agreed. They
feel like they know me. Is this not a peculiar way to go through life? I guess
it is. But I dont mind it, because I dont know any better.
While waiting for our food, Gomez glanced at her phone. Oh, my God, she
said. Look at what my manager wants me to post. On the screen was a photo
of a generically hunky blond man sipping an orange soda. Hes my boyfriend
in my video for Hands to Myself, Gomez said, referring to one of Revivals
singles. It comes out next week. As a kind of viral teaser, her manager suggested that she share the photo. I was surprised, momentarily, that Gomez was
so casual when it came to exposing the calculated nature of such a ploy. But
then I realized that Gomez simply better grasps what everyone knows about
Instagram: that every post, on everyones feed, be it Kim Kardashians or your
mothers, is invariably contrived. The most authentic approach is to embrace
the inherent artificiality without overthinking it.
Chips and guacamole arrived, along with a melty vessel of cheese. Gomez
dug in, ravenous. No caption, nothing, Gomez said as she posted the photo.
Watchitll be crazy.
What did she mean, exactly, by crazy? Within 12 hours, the post had
received 1.2 million likes and had become an international story. On
Cosmopolitans website, the next morning: important question: who is
this hot mystery man on selena gomezs instagram? The Internet
ignited in speculation. Was he her new bae? Was Gomez trolling Bieber?
Her sleuthing fans were quick to reveal the man to be Christopher Mason, a
model whom Gomez had turned into a global fetish between bites of guacamole at a chain restaurant in the Midwest.
A half-hour later she was onstage, strutting around in a sequined catsuit, shot
back into the orbit from whence she came. We never got to say a proper goodbye. When we returned from Chilis, her performance had been bumped up
by 15 minutes, and her team descended upon her with focus: prepping, tweaking, adjusting. After getting a final glimpse of her leading a kind of prayer
circle with her dancers, I made my way out into the arena to watch the show.
Although I tried to keep my eyes trained on the actual Gomez onstage, with
whom Id just shared a meal that suddenly felt like a distant memory, I found
myself fixated on the Gomez filling up the two massive screens flanking her.
She seemed somehow more real in the projections, below which was a live Twitter feed telling me exactly what I should be feeling: Still not over the fact that
Im breathing the same air as @selenagomez.
Marc Jacobs
jacket, bra, briefs,
and boots; JJ Hat
Center hat. Beauty
note: Keep strands
under control with
Pantene Pro-V
Smooth AntiHumidity Air Spray.
PRODUCTION BY NORTH SIX; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: TADAAKI SHIBUYA; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: ALEX LOCKETT; LIGHTING ASSISTANTS: MARK LUCKASAVAGE, JUSTIN MCMAHN; POSTPRODUCTION TECHNICIAN: JIM ALEXANDROU; FASHION
ASSISTANT: TAYLOR KIM; HAIR ASSISTANT: RYUTA SAIGA; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: CAROLINE HERNANDEZ; SET-DESIGN ASSISTANT: BRIAN ELWELL; BEHIND THE SCENES VIDEOGRAPHY: TOMMY MOORE, JOHN COLLAZOS, PATRICK WILLIAMS
PRODUCTION BY THE COLLECTIVE SHIFT, VLM PRODUCTIONS. STUDIO MANAGER: MARC KROOP; LIGHTING DIRECTOR: JODOKUS DRIESSEN; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: BRIAN ANDERSON; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: CHRIS DAVIS; STUDIO ASSISTANT: TUCKER BIRBILIS; PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: GEOFFREY BAPTISTE;
FASHION ASSISTANTS: RYANN FOULKE, DENA GIANNINI, SAM WALKER, ANITA LAU;. JEWELRY ASSISTANT: TINA HUYNH; HAIR ASSISTANTS: BILLY SCHAEDLER, KIRI YOSHIKI; MAKEUP ASSISTANTS: MONDO LEON, KENTO UTSUBO, JANESSA PARE, AYA WATANABE; MANICURE ASSISTANT: MICHELLE MATTHEWS
Maria Di Cresce
wears a Detroit Vs
Everybody by
Tommey Walker
hat; her own jacket.
Jamie Stamper, a
student at Wayne
State University, wears
a Rag & Bone dress;
her own necklace and
belt. Beauty note:
Talk the talk with MAC
Lipstick in Cyber.
SPECIAL THANKS TO HAMTRAMCK ACADEMY, MOSAIC YOUTH THEATRE OF DETROIT, WAYNE STATE UNIVERSITY, DOWNTOWN BOXING GYM, SHINOLA DETROIT
DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: XANNY HANDFIELD. LIGHTING TECHNICIAN: LARS BEAULIEU. PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: JOHNNY VICARI, FELIX KIM, ZENITH RICHARDS. FASHION ASSISTANT: BEATRIZ MAUES.
SET DESIGN ASSISTANTS: THEO VOLPATTI, RYAN STENGER. HAIR ASSISTANT: ADLENA DIGNAM. MAKEUP ASSISTANT: TAYLER TREADWELL. SPECIAL THANKS TO SUNSET STUDIOS NY, NOZ CATERING
U.S.A.
ALL THE
WAY
Mulberry, and, most recently, Loewe, where he was tasked with revitalizing the
Madrid leather-goods house. In 2013, he was recruited by Coach. On the basis
of his rsum, he was an obvious choice, since he already understood leather.
But, more important, he also had an appreciation for the American Dream
uncomplicated by the backlog of disillusionment most of us have acquired in
the course of dealing with American reality.
For the five years preceding his arrival at Coach, Vevers took annual vacations in the United States, venturing on road trips, following the glamorous
examples of Bonnie and Clyde, Thelma and Louise, Peter Fonda and Dennis
Hopper. Well, not quite a road trip, he allows. Since he doesnt know how to
drive, he and a friend explored the country via Amtrak (which in this day and
age seems like an accomplishment). They would disembark at the most random places, sometimes on the basis of nothing more than the time of day. You
sleep on the train and then get off at 10 in the morning, and you just happen to
be in the middle of nowhere. And normally, the trains come maybe every couple of days, so you spend time in that place, then get back on the train at the
same time two days later. The adventures that ensued helped to shape his version of America, together with the mix of impressions formed by the American
music (the Beastie Boys, Janet Jackson) and movies (My Own Private Idaho,
Pretty in Pink, Manhattan) he loved growing up. Working Girl is one of my favorite films of all time, he says. I love the idea that anything is possible, that
you can achieve anything if you put your mind to it.
her style as elegant casual. Cashin announced the crusade she would wage on
behalf of busy women like herself, very much involved in activity outside of the
home, whose purses contained not only money but everything they needed to
be their own secretaries and beauticians. Her solution was a family of coordinated things for carrying things: wallets, junk sacs, coin purses, key holders,
notebooks, eyeglass cases, clutch bags, and even a flask, all of which fit inside
her Cashin Carry totes, modeled on a paper shopping bag and collapsible, for
packing flat in a suitcase.
The totes were a runaway success, so universally copied that Womens Wear
Daily quoted a rival manufacturer, who, apparently without qualms, declared,
Its the biggest bag in my line this season! By 1965, Coach was turning them
out in three sizes and 14 colors. The press was rhapsodic. She might have invented suburbia as a fashion influence, the Chicago Tribune asserted. I had not
talked to her for five minutes before I recognized that rare thingan individual with a point of view so passionately held that it amounts to a philosophy
for living, said a writer in the Belfast Telegraph.
In any number of ways, Cashin seems to have been ahead of her own time
and relevant to ours, with innovations we now take for granted as part of
fashions standard vocabulary. She made creative use of industrial chain. She
devised a turn lockinspired, she claimed, by the fasteners on the cover for a
convertiblewhich became the brands signature hardware, identifying a product as Coach without a logo or a visible label. She urged women not to choose
black (though Coach offered it) just because it would go with everythinga
fashion strategy she condemned as pure dulland to resist buying items to
match, opting instead for colors that would harmonize.
Before the thirst for luxury became epidemic in the 1980s, Coach was a brand
that everyday Americans aspired to. Luis recalls first seeing the companys ads
in The New Yorker and wondering when he graduated from high school whether
he could afford a Coach briefcase. (He didnt get the briefcase, but he did receive
a Coach wallet in college as a gift.) Coach has the virtue of having figured in the
lives of an especially broad customer base over the course of several generations,
for whom the brand remains enshrined in memoryand that is something a
company cant buy.
This spring, as part of its 75th anniversary celebration, Coach will offer a selection of refurbished vintage bags with Paddle8, the online auction house. Coach
stores now reference New York, with giant black and white photos of the city
proclaiming the brands hometown (a new flagship opens this year on Fifth Avenue). There is still a workroom on the premises at the companys headquarters,
on West 34th Street, staffed by five master craftsmen and eight patternmakers
from a half-dozen countries, whom Massimiliano Arbo, the Florentine who
oversees them, describes with pride as an extension of the design team. The
company will soon move from its original building to a new tower overlooking the High Line, in Chelsea, but for the time being the archives are housed
in a climate-controlled basement room, where Jed Winokur, the brands archivist, tends to a selection of bags and other products. Displayed in glass cases
are items dating from the 1940s to last season, and, apart from a few relics of
their particular eras (a transistor radio case, a desktop lighter), most are sufficiently classic that they are difficult to date. There are mens dopp kits, attach
cases, overnight bags. Cashins collections are easily identified by their colors
and contrasting linings. By the mid-70s shes gone, and the palette turns earthtoned; the bags become less structured, more bohemian. In the 80s theres a
bag commissioned as part of the uniform for United Airlines flight attendants.
And then come bags in exotic skins, needlepoint, jacquard woven with a
signature C, as, in 1996, Coach branched out under Reed Krakoff s direction.
There are new items (a dog carrier) and collaborations with artists (Laurie
Simmons, James Nares). Together, Krakoff and Lew Frankfort, then chairman
and CEO, steered Coach into territory it would eventually share with Michael
Kors and other brands that might not qualify as luxury in the mind of the industry observer whose attention is trained on the top tier of the market but that
nonetheless represent something valuable and desirable for their own following. There were people who aspired to Coach, and then there were those who
DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: MIKE BOGART; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: DEAN PODMORE, JIMI FRANKLIN; FASHION ASSISTANT: KARLY GRAWIN
DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: EVAN LEE. PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: MARGARET GIBBONS, ROBERT MASSMAN, JAMES CLARKE. FASHION ASSISTANTS: MECCA JAMES-WILLIAMS, MIRANDA SCIOSCIA, CHELA MITCHELL. HAIR ASSISTANT: SHIMANO NORIYASU. MAKEUP ASSISTANT: RYO KURAMOTO
HIGH AND
ARTY
Aspen has long been a playground for the rich and
powerful, but now, thanks to a group of spirited
collectors, it is also an art mecca. Rob Haskell takes a
tour. Photographs by Matthias Vriens-McGrath
ts hard to pinpoint precisely how or when Aspen became one of the art worlds seats of power, but
its easy to understand why it did. Big money draws big money, Jan Greenberg, a St. Louis author
and collector, tells me, setting a plate of brownies beside a Louise Bourgeois sculpture on the coffee
table in the living room of her Aspen residence, which was designed by the Bauhaus master Herbert
Bayer. At least 50 billionaires own homes in or around Aspen, a fact that would have grieved, but not
shocked, the towns founding mother, Elizabeth Paepcke. It has been 77 years since Paepcke, a Chicago philanthropist known as Pussy to her near and dear, discovered the faded silver-mining town while
on a skiing expedition andby later establishing both the Aspen Music Festival and the Aspen Institute
turned it into a high-minded destination for artists and intellectuals. By the 1980s, new fortunes had arrived,
mountain castles had been built. Paepcke looked upon it all with horror.
Whatever the towns excesses, its the cultural riches, laid out in particular abundance during the summer
season, that still make Aspen unique among the gilded playgrounds around the globe. The billionaires who
frequent this exclusive hamlet, with names like Koch, Lauder, Abramovich, and Cisneros, sit on the boards
of the countrys most significant cultural institutions. Where else can you wake up, go hiking, do Pilates,
attend a lecture, play tennis, and go on another hike, all in one day? asks Gabriela Garza, a Mexico City collector, who on the morning we meet has already attended a talk by the acclaimed author Walter Isaacson
about Leonardo da Vinci and is back home preparing to host a dinner for Adam Weinberg, the director of
the Whitney Museum of American Art. Across town, Jane and Marc Nathanson, liberal Democrats from
Los Angeles, had John McCain over for breakfast at their soaring chalet before attending his talkabout
homeland securityat the Aspen Institute. Jan Greenberg and her husband, Ronald, meanwhile, are on their
way to hear cello virtuosa Alisa Weilerstein perform a program of Sergei Prokofiev.
From the jazz festival to the film festival to the ballet to the institute, Ive never had a boring moment
here, says Nancy Magoon, who seems to have a talent for averting boring moments: She once persuaded
Andy Warhol to paint her portrait at 3 a.m., after a party in Miami. Jane Nathanson, who has been skiing in
Aspen for more than 50 years, concedes that it is no longer Paepckes genteel mountain retreat. Maybe the
new group does things differently, she says, wryly. The few WASPs left here were aghast when Stewart and
Lynda Resnick offered to fix and rename Paepcke Auditorium, which was falling apart. But I think in time,
the old guard saw that the new was just as committed to the intellectual culture of the town.
Indeed, Aspen owes a considerable debt to a vigorous group of collectors who, despite their contrasting tastes
and temperaments, have worked to make the place a contemporary art mecca. They are, in their way, a team.
Theres a sense of connectedness among the women here that Ive never felt in Greenwich or New York, says
Jennifer Blei Stockman, the president of the Guggenheim board and a passionate supporter of Anderson Ranch
Arts Center, a nearly 50-year-old institution in nearby Snowmass Village that offers workshops and artist residencies on its sprawling campus. The elegant Aspen Art Museum and the crunchier Anderson Ranch stand as
the pillars of contemporary art in Colorados Rocky Mountains. A decade ago, when Heidi Zuckerman became
the CEO and director of the Aspen Art Museum, things got rolling. The museum moved from a modest location by the river to a sleek new building designed by the Pritzker Prizewinning architect Shigeru Ban; a huge
gift from the money manager John Phelan and his wife, Amy, made it admission-free in perpetuity. Though the
museum remains, essentially, a kunsthalle, with no permanent collection, Zuckerman has steered its programming toward cutting-edge and often challenging art. She came, and our universe changed, as Greenberg puts it.
But Zuckerman insists that Aspen was more than ready for her. I felt like I had moved to a land where
everyone spoke my language, where I didnt need to explain anything, she says. People here have a high level
of confidence, an appetite for extreme ideas.
Magoon, who was on the search committee that brought Zuckerman to Aspen from the Berkeley Art Museum, agrees. When it comes to art, there are no sheep, no followers here, she says. Its not a place where
one person buys an Ed Ruscha and then everyone buys an Ed Ruscha. Truth be told, in these parts there
may be no work more popular than a Ruscha mountain painting. And yet, however coveted, such canvases
offer no match for the genuine article. Allison Kanders, a New York collector who built a Charles Gwathmey
designed house a few years ago, puts it plainly: I think all of us believe that Aspen itself is the greatest work
of art. On that, Paepcke would have agreed.
Nancy Magoon
The moment you reach the doorstep of Nancy and Bob Magoons Aspen chalet, Tony Ourslers sinister basso, piped through
hidden speakers, commands you to get off the property. Its the installation-art version of my grandmothers greeting, Nobodys home, please leave, says Nancy Magoon, flanked by her two black labs, Frida Kahlo and Damien Hirst. Humorfrom a
Chapman brothers Hamburglar sculpture to a David Shrigley 2012 linocut print that reads, simply,
is essential to the Magoons highly personal and fearless collection. It embraces prehistoric Anasazi pottery, Egyptian
sarcophagi covers, modernist furniture, and African-American art. Sex is another theme: The Magoons, year-round residents
ever since Bob closed his Miami ophthalmology practice, sleep under Tracey Emins 1998 Garden of Horror, which celebrates the
pleasures of rear entry; Bob likes to joke that he was the model for the cast silicone-and-rubber penises in Tim Noble and Sue
Websters 2009 Bloody Haemorrhaging Narcissus, a piece cast from the artists body parts. The sculpture garden, with its 90-mile
views of the mountains, includes an assemblage of discarded water heaters by Nancy Rubins. Our neighbors tried to sue us over
that one, Magoon says. I told them the artist takes old mobile homes out of trailer parks, too. Ill put one of them here next.
On Park Avenue,
you see the
ubiquitous art
checklist, Kanders
says. In Aspen,
the collections are
more personal.
Gabriela Garza
With tousled hair, ripped jeans, and a flannel shirt offering a Coloradan counterpoint to her studded Azzedine Alaa shoes, Gabriela Garza is certainly among
the worlds most stylish grandmas. She is also one of the worlds major new-art
patrons. If you want to dabble, fine, she says, perched on a red velvet Jean Royre sofa facing the emerald flank of Aspen Mountain. If you need a trophy, you
can buy it. If you want to invest, its a good investment. For me, its the pleasure
of learning. Garza, who resides in Mexico City with her husband, Ramiro, a
gas-and-oil magnate, got the bug 15 years ago, when an Antoni Tpies painting
caught her eye. Her collection includes works by Jeff Koons, Gabriel Orozco,
and Lawrence Weiner and is anchored, in Mexico City, by a major Cy Twombly painting. People always say, I only buy this or that, she muses. For us, its
a decision made in the moment, emotionally. Garza and her family have been
visiting Aspen for more than two decades, and friends love to come over for
her cooks exceptional moles. In my opinion, were the best restaurant in town.
Allison Kanders
New York City goes to the Hamptons, Allison Kanders says. But everybody comes to Aspen. Whereas you go up and down Park Avenue and you see
the ubiquitous checklist, here the art collections are more personal. Kanders
and her husband, Warren, an investor, spend the summer and winter seasons in a modernist aerie with views of the Maroon Bells, Colorados most
photographed peaks. It is among the last private homes designed by Charles
Gwathmey, whom Allison had to nudge away from curvilinear surfaces so
that she could hang more art. A Sol LeWitt wall drawing faces a giant Rudolf
Stingel canvas in the living room, with Paul McCarthys candy-pink sculpture of a little girl in between. (Tame, she says of the McCarthy, for a man
who did George W. Bush sodomizing a pig.) Kanders, who bought her first
artwork, a Louise Lawler photograph, when she was 21, warms to pieces that
are just provocative enough. You get bored otherwise.
Opposite: Gabriela
Garza, on a Jean
Royre sofa; behind
her is Richard Princes
Nurse in Hollywood,
2003. Lanvin dress
and boots.
This page: Allison
Kanders, flanked by,
from left, Rachel
Harrisons Walk This
Way, 2007, and Paul
McCarthys Mimi,
20062008. Stella
McCartney dress.
Eleanore De Sole
As my mother used to say, Water seeks its own level. Thats how Eleanore
De Sole explains the convergence of art lovers on the slopes that she and her
husband, Domenico, the executive chairman of Tom Ford International and
chairman of the Sothebys board of directors, have been visiting for more than 30
years. But the De Soles quiet, utterly sophisticated collection is unlike any other
in the area. It consists of a mix of Abstract Expressionism and Minimalism, as
well as Italian modernist paintingincluding four works by Lucio Fontana and
one by Piero Manzonito which the couple was introduced by the auctioneer
Simon de Pury when they were living in Florence in the 1990s during Domenicos stint as president and CEO of Gucci. Domenico and I have what you might
call a simple eye. Were a bit more laid-back and subtle, and Ill give you another
example of that: We live in Snowmass Village, Eleanore says, referring to Aspens slightly less flashy neighbor. The De Soles, avid sailors who when not in
Aspen can be found in Hilton Head, South Carolina, say they never buy art unless they are in perfect accord, and they have never sold anything. Never, ever,
she says. Theres always another wall.
We have never
sold anything,
De Sole says.
Never, ever.
Theres always
another wall.
We had to
remove the
wainscoting to
accept the
Baldessari, but
I like that
juxtaposition,
Crown says.
Opposite: Jane Nathanson, in
front of Anish Kapoors
Untitled, 2013. Chanel dress
and shoes; Fogal tights.
This page: Nancy Crown, with
John Baldessaris Pink Shapes
(in Mountainscape) Above
Two Figures With Object, 1990.
Dior top, skirt, and boots.
Jane Nathanson
Nancy Crown
Jane Nathanson, a licensed therapist, and her investor husband, Marc, have been
coming to Aspen since the early 60s, when they met at the University of Denver.
Back then, they slept in a motel, but nowadays they rest their heads in a log cabin
built of timber rescued from a Yosemite fire, made groovy with a sea of shag carpeting and assorted Warhols. (Their primary residence is a Frank Lloyd Wright
house in Los Angeless Holmby Hills.) Jane grew up on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, where her parents collected Impressionist works. They encouraged me
to paint, but the only person who bought my work was my father, she quips. Jane
and Marc started buying art in New York in the early 1970s. We got a Warhol
soup can for $1,000when you could afford that stuff. Now its a hobby for the
very rich. While their masterpiecesa big Warhol double Elvis and a Matisse
once owned by the author W. Somerset Maughamhang in L.A., the Aspen
house skews contemporary, with works by Anish Kapoor, Marilyn Minter, and
Gregory Crewdson. The view outside, of the adjacent North Star Nature Preserve with its colony of great blue herons, is no less impressive. People ask if we
should have a sculpture out there. I think a tree is nicer.
I think of many of the other women as mentors, says Nancy Crown, who
is the first to admit that her collection is not yet in the league of those of her
Aspen friends. The Crown collection is not likely to stay in the shadows for
long, however. Though based in Winnetka, Illinois, the family owns the Aspen Skiing Company, one of the towns biggest businesses. In Nancy and her
husband Stevens rather formal stone house in Aspen Highlands, close to the
more extreme snowboarding terrain their sons favor, the Richard Serra works
on paper in the living room look chic against the traditional David Easton
decor. We had to remove the wainscoting in the foyer to accept the John
Baldessari, but I like that juxtaposition, says Crown, a Whitney board member
since 2011. The couples growing trove mixes midcentury giants like Ellsworth
Kelly, Richard Diebenkorn, and Bridget Riley with midcareer masters such
as Christopher Wool and Wade Guyton, whom Crown calls a friend. Collecting has been such a rich experience for metraveling with other trustees,
getting to know artists, watching their careers blossom. Living with the art is
only part of the joy.
When we
began
collecting, we
bought safe
things, Phelan
says. But soon
that felt like my
grandparents.
This page: Jan Greenberg, wearing
her own Alexander Calder brooch
from 1960, with Calders Jeune Fille
et Sa Suite, 1970. Calvin Klein
Collection jacket, turtleneck, and pants.
Opposite: Amy Phelan lies on Walead
Beshtys Mirrored Floor, 2011. Oscar
de la Renta gown and sandals. For
stores, prices, and more, go to Wmag
.com/where-to-buy-march-2016.
Styled by Patrick Mackie. Hair by
Sheridan Ward for Oribe at the Wall
Group; makeup by Nathan Hejl.
Jan Greenberg
Amy Phelan
Im not sure how I got here, but I sure am thankful for it, Amy Phelan says. A
former Dallas Cowboys cheerleader, she is also a daring and deeply thoughtful
champion of contemporary art and, to quote one of her Aspen neighbors, beyond philanthropic. WineCrush, which she and her husband, John, a financier,
host as part of the annual weeklong fundraising extravaganza ArtCrush, helped
raise $2.5 million for the Aspen Art Museum last year. When we began collecting, we bought safe things, Phelan says. A Chagall, a Picasso. Then we started
going to Chelsea, to art fairs. We got a Thomas Ruff photograph, and from then
on, everything else felt like my grandparents. The Phelans buy what they like,
with humor and sex the dominant themes. Each summer, they reinstall the art
in their Aspen home. There are major Ellsworth Kellys, Warhols Dolly Parton
(the queen mother, Amy calls her), and numerous works by the Phelans friend
Jim Hodges. In a downstairs bedroom, a video still from John Waterss Shut Up
and Blow Me! hangs over the fireplace. Phelan doesnt worry about frightening
her guests: If they minded, they wouldnt be allowed to stay here.
PRODUCED BY LAURA HOLMES PRODUCTION; MENS CASTING: MADELEINE STLIE; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: LEX KEMBERY, MATT HEALEY, SIMON MACKINLAY, TOM AYERST; FASHION ASSISTANTS: RYANN FOULKE, SAM WALKER, DENA GIANNINI,
RAE HARRISON-DOYLE, SHARON SYLVESTER, RAEANN HAYDEN; HAIR ASSISTANTS: ADAM GARLAND, ELVIRE ROUX; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: JOEY CHOY; MANICURE ASSISTANT: ZAIDA IBRAHIM-GANI; SET DESIGN ASSISTANT: JAMES ROBOTHAM
WOW
5.
6.
2.
3.
4.
1. The red-lit
atmosphere in
the penthouse of
the Chateau
Marmont. 2. Brie
Larson and
Kristen Wiig.
3. Jennifer Jason
Leigh. 4. Cate
Blanchett.
5. Jacob Tremblay.
6. Gael Garca
Bernal. 7. Poppy
Jamie and Suki
Waterhouse.
8. Peter Lindbergh
and Rooney Mara.
7.
8.
1.
9.
13.
12.
14.
L.A. Confidential
3.
2.
1. Rowan
Blanchard and
Kiernan Shipka.
2. Billie Lourd.
3. Jaime King.
4. Loan Chabanol.
5. Emilia Clarke.
6. Caroline
Vreeland, Kilo Kish,
and Kacy Hill.
4.
5.
It Girl Lunch
wmag.com
6.
LARSON AND WIIG, MULLEAVY AND DUNST: LANDON NORDEMAN; GOLDEN GLOBES BASH: COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES; IT GIRL LUNCH: STEFANIE KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR W MAGAZINE
10.
Daring Divas
THE STANDOUTS AT THE EUROPEAN
SPRING COLLECTIONS? LADIES WITH AN
ATTITUDE, SAYS ARMAND LIMNANDER.
A floral tapestry +
Rita Ora +
King Louis XIV =
Alexander McQueens
craftsy courtesan
A rainbow +
Stevie Nickss
painting Rhiannon +
Sean Penn in
Fast Times at
Ridgemont High =
Chlos breezy
beachcomber
356
wmag.com
Marlene Dietrich in
Blonde Venus +
autumn ferns +
Big Bird =
Moschinos
sensational showgirl
BRAVE: COURTESY OF DISNEY; OSTRICH, COMME DES GARCONS, BROKEN MIRROR, NEWSPRINT, LOEWE, TAPESTRY, ORA, KING LOUIS XIV, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, RAINBOW, CHLOE, FERNS, BIG BIRD, AND MOSCHINO: GETTY IMAGES; GABOS LINEAR CONSTRUCTION NO. 4, 1959:
COURTESY OF THE ARTIST/TATE, LONDON; CAPTAIN KIRK: COURTESY OF PARAMOUNT TELEVISION; BLONDE VENUS: COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION; FAST TIMES AT RIDGEMONT HIGH: COURTESY OF UNIVERSAL PICTURES; NICKSS RHIANNON, 1982: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST
INSPIRATION EQUATION