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In Mandalay, go
Morning
t takes about a 10-hour bus ride from
Yangon to reach Mandalay, the former
royal capital in central Myanmar on the
Ayeyarwady River. At its heart is the restored
Mandalay Palace from the Konbaung Dynasty
(1752-1885), surrounded by a moat.
Once the bus reaches the Chan Mya
Shwe Pyi (Kywe Se Kan) terminal early in
the morning, the first place to visit is Maha
Myat Muni or Phaya Gyi Pagoda near the bus
stop. It houses the most revered and ancient
Buddha image in Myanmar, thought to be
cast during the lifespan of Lord Buddha in
the seated posture of relaxed deportment,
symbolic of His conquest of Mara (the demon
that seduced him with a vision of beautiful
women). For a day trip, there is no need to rent
a hotel room as there are public restrooms for
visitors to shower and freshen up.
Breakfast can be taken at Shwe Pyi Moe (35th
Street), Min Thiha (72nd Street) or Pan Thakhin
(70th Street), where various food from dim sum
to Myanmar traditional mote ti (dishes made
with thin rice noodles), mohinga, kyarsan
hingar (vermicelli soup), or Shan noodles are
served. The food is not only delicious but also
priced reasonably from K500-K700.
After breakfast, a stroll through Zay Cho
Market would be perfect as it is one of the
oldest markets in Myanmar and, for window
shoppers, the citys biggest shopping mall,
Diamond Plaza, is an option. Yee Mon pickled
tea or htoe mont (glutinous rice cake with
The royal palace in Mandalay is an interesting place to study the lifestyles of ancient Myanmar kings.
Photo: Staff
Sunset
One can also view the sunset from the bridge.
Another good place for that is Mandalay
Hill. Thazin New restaurant near the bridge
offers an assortment of fried snacks and
mutton curry costing around K6500.
Dinner is available at restaurants along
Tet Thay Lake, a 15-minute-drive from U
Night out
Mandalays nightlife may not match Yangons
but the city still offers a mix of entertainment
on a different scale. There is enough to keep
tourists busy at night, from karaoke music
and discos to cultural and fashion shows. And,
dont leave the city without tasting the local
cuisine.
Continued on page 5
keep your eyes peeled for the highly intricate, glossy eggwashed cakes.
What to see
Most visitors go to Chinatown to eat. Lets face it, the food is
delicious, cheap, and fast. The beer, even cheaper. But what
most visitors dont know or see as many frequent the dimly
lit streets in the evening is that Yangons Chinatown is home
to a few very historic and beautiful temples.
Kheng Hock Keong Temple
Dedicated to the goddess Mazu who watches over fisherman
and seafarers, Kheng Hock Keong Temple is one of largest and
oldest Chinese folk religion temples. Located in Latha township
on the corner of Sintodan and Strand roads, Kheng Hock Keong
Temple is maintained by a community of Hokkien Chinese.
Covered in gold and red, the temple is a stunning example of
Chinese architecture. For tourists and worshippers alike, the
temple provides an awesome photo opportunity and respite
from the bustle of downtown.
Guangdong Kwan Yin Temple
On Latha and 20th Street is the partially hidden Guangdong
Kwan Yin Temple where the local Sino-Myanmar community
hailing from Guangdong province come to worship and hold
black tea-infused afternoon meetings. Visitors will be struck
again by the ancient Chinese architecture as well as the
beautiful Chinese calligraphy adorning the walls.
Both Kheng Hock Keong and Guangdong Kwan Yin temples
are a testament to the diversity of Yangon, though there
are many other Chinese temples (Buddhist and otherwise)
scattered across Chinatown and throughout pockets of Yangon.
They speak to the religious and racial diversity of the city, and
for tourists, provide a view into one of the many ethnic groups
that makes up Myanmar.
Night Market
Every night around 19th Street and heading west down
Mahabadoola Street, Chinatown blossoms into a crowd of
vendors and fruit and vegetable sellers. There isnt an official
name or start time but from around 4:30pm onward, the
streets swell with a flurry of fruit and vegetable sellers, fresh
meat and fish sellers, and various non-barbecue food stands.
Some stands offer traditional dim sum favourites such as
shumai and steamed buns. Others offer sweet desserts made
from rice flour sheets, red bean paste, and coconut. Others sell
zongzi, a pyramid of glutinous rice steamed in a banana leaf.
With more than 2000 ancient religious monuments dating from the 9th to the 13th centuries, Bagan is an archaeological marvel. Photo: AFP
Continued from page 3
Morning
nother must-see destination while touring Myanmar is
Bagan, the ancient city of temples in central Myanmar.
Standing on the eastern banks of the Ayeyarwady
River, its known for the Bagan Archaeological Area, where
more than 2000 Buddhist monuments tower over green plains.
A holy site around Old Bagan includes the ornate Ananda
Temple and nearby is the vast 12th-century Dhammayangyi
Pagoda. Bagan is accessible by air, rail, bus, car and river.
Express buses reach the heart of Myanmars cultural centre
through Nyaung-U terminal at about 6:30am, after an eighthour journey. Visitors can have their breakfast at the terminals
restaurants. Oil rice with fried chicken is K3500 per serving.
Hotels rent out cars or battery-powered cycles for tourists
to visit the famous pagodas around the city. Bagan Airport
Hotel is located near Nyaung-U express terminal, from where
a car or cycle could be hired. One could hire horse carts
for sightseeing or opt for hot air balloon tours to view the
magnificent ancient city.
Along the way to Bagan Airport, one can visit the Shin Izza
Gawna Temple (a two-storey Indian styled monument) and
Minnanthu Pagoda (in the same namesake village existing since
the ancient Bagan period, between the 9th and 13th centuries).
Going in a clockwise direction from Nyaung-U junction,
landmarks that could be toured include Gu Byauk Gyi Temple,
Gu Byauk Nge Temple, Alo Taw Pyae Pagoda, Ananda Temple,
Thatbyinnyu Temple and Lawka Nanda Pagoda (it contains a
replica of a Buddhas tooth relic).
There are four pagodas in the Bagan area that each contains
a replica of a Buddhas tooth relic. All four together are known
as the Bagan Swe Taw Lay Su (Four Tooth Relics). Besides Lawka
Nanda, the other three are Shwezigon, Tu Yin Taung and Tant
Kyi Taung; it is believed visiting all four places in a day makes
ones wish come true.
Tourists can also view the Taung Kalat monastery built on a
mountain top from Mount Popa, about 50km from Bagan.
Noon
Lunch could be at one of the buffet restaurants nearby, where
prices range from K3500 to K4500. As there are many historical
sites in Bagan, it is recommended not to spend more than 30
minutes in a place.
After leaving Bupaya Pagoda, theres an excavation site of an
ancient palace nearby. It was built by King Anawrahta.
Not to be forgotten during the tour is the Bagan
From six used buses, Mandalar Minn Express now boasts a fleet of over 100 luxury coaches and employs some 500 staff.
In 2012, it wrested the ASEAN-China Young Entrepreneur Outstanding Award. But not all is as rosy as it seems. In this
interview, Lai Lai Aye reveals her career challenges, and the flaws and future of the road transport system in Myanmar.
Mathematics graduate, mother of two and successful entrepreneur, Lai Lai Aye has
built a million-dollar intercity bus company
Lai Lai Aye at her Mandalar Minn Express office in Yangon. Photo: Naing Wynn Htoon
Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, Nyaung-U, Taunggyi, Inle, Kyaikhtiyo, Nat Ma Taung in Chin
State, the Myeik Archipelago and Hpa-an.
Air ticket prices differ depending on the airline, and passengers often choose one based
on the services of the carrier, pricing and airline safety, Zaw Linn Shein said. MAI, Air KBZ
and Air Mandalay are the most popular.
The lowest airfare for a domestic journey
from Yangon to any destination could cost
between K60,000 and K70,000 for a Myanmar
citizen and about US$90 to $200 for foreigners.
Ticket prices for Yangon-Mandalay and
Yangon-Nay Pyi Taw routes could be anywhere between K70,000 and over K100,000 on
MNA flights.
Khaung Khaung from Tango Travel and
Tours said this season will be a busy time as
people travel to Ngapali beach for pre-wedding
photo shoots, honeymoons and vacations.
The climate is perfect for travelling. So,
many people choose to book flights to Ngapali
and ticket prices are rising. It is a bit difficult
to go there by car, so most travellers take
flights.
The view from the sky is amazing and the
beach is scenic. It is a common destination for
honeymooning couples and foreign tourists,
she said.
Translation by Emoon
The Myanmar
Times compiles a
list of interesting
places for tourists
to explore, from
rocky mountains,
jade markets
and holy sites to
serene villages in
far-flung areas of
the country
Kyaiktiyo Pagoda is a well-known
Buddhist pilgrimage site in Mon State.
Photo: Aung Htay Hlaing
9
Maykha and Malikha rivers where
the Ayeyarwady River, referred to
as the lifeblood of Myanmar, starts
flowing. On the way, tourists can
see the Manau Park where the
Kachin Manau traditional festival
is held for two weeks every January.
Myanmars largest lake and also
one of the largest in Southeast Asia,
the Inn Taw Gyi, is located 164km
from Myitkyina. Endangered birds
inhabit the 13km wide and 24km
long lake.
Nay Pyi Taw boasts splendid governmental and parliamentary buildings. Photo: Kaung Htet
to 300BC.
Inle Lake is the second-largest
lake in Myanmar and its Phaung
Daw Oo Pagoda festival has a
floating market where products are
sold on small wooden boats rowed
in a traditional style using the legs.
Located 42km away is the natural
limestone Hten San Cave.
6. Bagan
An archaeological marvel, Bagan
is the ancient city in central
Myanmar and located on the
eastern banks of the Ayeyarwady
River. It is known for the Bagan
Archaeological Area, where
more than 2000 ancient religious
monuments, dating from the
9th to the 13th centuries, could
be found. Holy sites around Old
Bagan include the ornate Ananda
Temple, built in 1091 and topped
with a golden stupa. Nearby is the
vast 12th-century Dhammayangyi
Temple. The Shwezigon Pagoda
and Thatbyinnyu Temple are
also famous sites. Visitors can
cycle around Bagan or view its
architecture and enjoy the beauty of
the Ayeyarwady River from hot air
balloons.
7. Kyaik Hto
Kyaiktiyo Pagoda
Kyaikpawlaw Pagoda
The Kyaiktiyo Pagoda is 209km from
Yangon. It is a well-known Buddhist
pilgrimage site in Mon State, and is
built on the top of a granite boulder
covered with gold leaves pasted
on by devotees. Pilgrims usually
visit the pagoda once the rainy
season is over and many Buddhists
from Thailand and China visit the
place to pay homage. Kyaikpawlaw
Pagoda, situated near the street
leading to Kyaiktiyo, is believed
to have floated from Sri Lanka.
Kyaikpawlaw is well-known
because of the hmet shin (living
mole) on the face of the Buddhas
image. Kyaik Htos famous
products are a variety of candied
fruits, toys and tools made of
bamboo.
8. Myitkyina
Confluence of Maykha, Malikha rivers
Manau Park
Inn Taw Gyi
Myitkyina is the capital of Kachin
state and is 1481km from Yangon.
Forty kilometres from Myitkyina,
there is the confluence of the
9. Mrauk-U
Mrauk-U, an ancient city where
the powerful Rakhine dynasty
was founded between the 15th
and 18th centuries, is 856km from
Yangon. It can be reached by road
or waterways. Like Bagan, there
are ancient religious buildings
in Mrauk-U with most ancient
artworks preserved. It is free to visit
the museum of ancient culture in
the city. Visitors can hire a bicycle,
trishaw or horse cart to tour around
the place, which is hilly terrain and
surrounded by paddy fields and
small villages.
Lodging is not a problem here
as there are many hotels and
guesthouses.
Most of Mrauk-Us ancient religious buildings and artworks are preserved. Photo: Staff
An elephant training camp near Ngwe Saung beach, Pathein township. Photo: Staff
c.santiago@mmtimes.com
10
So much promise,
yet so much to do
in tourism
Tourist arrival numbers in Myanmar are rising and so is
domestic tourism, but tighter rules and security risks in
remote scenic areas could spoil the show. Khin Maung
Pyone, deputy chair of the Yangon Hotel Zone of the
Myanmar Hotelier Association, provides a clearer picture of
the sectors progress in this interview.
11
many areas that cannot be labelled
as tourism regions because no one
would guarantee the security of
travellers in those places. In the
past, the state governments would
ban tourists from those areas, lest
they have to take responsibility
for whatever happens to them.
Security issues could erupt, such
as foreign tourists being kidnapped
by armed groups. Tour guides
are banned from taking tourists
to forbidden areas on security
grounds.
One example is the
beautiful heart-shaped Reed
Lake, considered the heart of
picturesque Chin State [its also
known as the Rih Dil or Rih Lake,
a name derived from a tribal Mizo
folktale, and it lies at the IndoMyanmar border and is about 1
mile in length and half a mile in
width.]. But we cant send tourists
there. There are plenty of places
in our country where natural
waterfalls and frozen areas still
exist. But travellers are forbidden
from going to those places due to
security reasons. The respective
regional governments need to
issue permits to travellers. When
we take a foreigner to a place, we
need to request for a permit from
regional or state governments. We
cant just take foreigners anywhere
we want.
Dr Khin Shwe, patron of
Myanmar Hotelier Association,
has said the local hotel and
tourism industry is on a growth
trajectory. Are the hotels offering
quality services?
We need to create places for
tourists to visit. Hotels should hire
skilled and competent staff to give
better services. It is not fair for
hotels just to charge high rates but
in return they should also provide
quality services.
These are some of the things
that we lack from our side.
Currently, we are opening many
training courses to boost staff
qualifications. It will succeed.
Once there is peace in the country
and with the emergence of new
tourism regions, there would be
many more tourists travelling to
other regions rather than just to a
city, like Yangon.
Stringent regulations regarding
foreign travellers staying in
private residences have met
with both criticism and support.
What would be your take on this
matter? Will it affect the hotel
sector?
The official announcement that
foreigners should not stay in
private residences has been made
in townships and wards. This
regulation will not affect the hotel
industry. There were a lot of cases
where foreigners would put up
in unkempt houses. If such cases
were to be discovered, action
would also be taken against the
house owner. There are some house
owners who accept any amount, like
$20 or $25 per tourist, for a night.
They rent out about six rooms
with two bunk beds in each and
with a common restroom for all. In
hotels, you have your own private
bathroom. There are still many
house owners who charge as little
as $10 or $15 a tourist a night.
Translation by
Khine Thazin Han and Emoon
Island holidays
Ei Ei Thu
Gaw Yin Gyi Island
(An eight-hour drive from Yangon)
12
Padonmars interior has a cozy and rustic touch. Photo: Naing Wynn Htoon
Meli Yangon
eyes business and
leisure travellers
T
Meli Yangon aims to be the next five-star hotel and hospitality reference in town.
Photo: Thiri Lu
13
dont want to serve just Myanmar dishes.
Besides the food, the restaurants
interior is a talking point too. Sonny, who
is also familiar with interior design, has
created a cozy restaurant with a rustic
touch.
All the walls are decorated with wall
paintings because I want to make my
customers feel like they are eating in a
Myanmar royal palace, he said.
Food quality is given top priority. Every
day I taste all the dishes that are prepared
to find out whether they are up to
standard or not, and whether too much or
very little oil is used or not. It is important
to add the right amount of oil, he said.
We train our chefs so that Myanmar
dishes will be accepted by all. Right
now, because its too oily (in some other
restaurants), some foreigners do not like
them. We have to urge Myanmar and
ethnic restaurants not to use too much
oil.
Restaurants serving foreign cuisines
are increasing. For Myanmar or ethnic
restaurants, its the opposite. Some have
commented that our Myanmar dishes
do not taste authentic. For the sake of
foreigners, we have to alter slightly but
not to the extent that the original taste is
ruined, he added.
To that end, the enthusiastic food
The Lantern, one of Meli Yangons three high-end restaurants. Photo: Supplied
14
5-star woman
A luxury, colonial-style hotel,
Chatrium has scored a hat-trick
at the World Travel Awards 2016.
Photo: Aung Myin Ye Zaw
May Myat Mon Win
thinks women have
more opportunities
than men in the hotel
industry. Photo: Zarni Phyo
Unearthing
hidden
treasures
As tourists expect to go farther afield, they can now observe the lifestyle of local
villagers. Photo: Thiri Lu