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Department of Clothing and Textiles, Kunsan National University, Kunsan, Jeollabuk-do, Korea
b
Department of Clothing and Textiles, Chungnam National University, Daejeon, Korea
Received 23 January 2004; accepted 30 March 2006
Abstract
It has been difcult to quantify the t of brassiere wire to the natural nude under breast line due to the difculty of obtaining womens
nude under breast line in 3D image. The objectives of this study are rstly to design the ergonomic brassiere wire that should t to the
curve of under breast and thorax and secondly to apply the 3D measurement of human body structure to the product design and
evaluation using phase shifting moire topography. Eight brassiere wires were evaluated and key factors of comfortable wires were
selected depending on the types of womens under breast those are considered as backbones of the brassiere structure. Twenty-one
middle-aged women participated in the subjective wear test, and 17 volunteers of them continued to participate in the 3D image
recording. 3D morphological data of the breast before and after wearing experimental brassieres was examined by phase shifting moire
topography. As results, it was found that the tting of the global average radius of curvature of wire to that of the bodyline of the under
breast curve was an important variable for the design of wires. Conventional shape of brassiere wire was suitable to the majority of the
subjects. However, for those who have skewed under breast lines, the wire of larger global average radius of curvature along the inner
part of the under breast line was rated higher in terms of wear comfort and appearance. The recommended magnitude of the torsional
rigidity of the brassiere wire was about 0.015 N/mm2 mm. The observation on womens under breast curve and their comfortable breast
wire as discussed in this paper would provide with comfortable and stable t for women in special needs such as soldiers, athletes
and actress.
r 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Keywords: Brassiere wire; 3D measurement of breast; Global average radius of curvature
1. Introduction
A brassiere wire often draws attention as a key element
of brassieres, since it is regarded as a backbone variable
which should t the bony thorax and one of the major
sources of uncomfortable wear sensation of brassieres
(Kim et al., 2000; Lee et al., 2001). Recently instead of wire,
a rather radical approach, a 3D form substitute was
introduced in the brassiere cup for better t reformability
(Precision Toolmaker, 2001). Wireless brassiere is often
preferred due to its comfortable wear sensation. Nevertheless, to support the mass of the breast, wires are still
necessary and generally used in brassieres due to their
Corresponding author. Tel.: +82 42 821 6828; fax: +82 42 821 8777.
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Table 1
Performance of 3D phase shifting moire topography
Performance
Range of measurement
Accuracy
Reproducibility
Light source
Camera
Calibration
BP
2. Methods
2.1. Breast measurement
3D images of breasts were obtained by phase-shifting
moire topography (Intek Plus Co. Ltd.), and the 3D images
of the curved surface were analyzed by RapidForm (INUS
Technology, Inc.). The performance of phase-shifting
moire topography is summarized in Table 1 (Kim et al.,
1999; Choi, 1997).
Seventeen middle-aged women (30s50s) who normally
wear 80A brassieres in the Korean size specication
(bust girth: 87.592.5 cm, under bust girth: 77.582.5 cm)
participated in the wear test. The focus of the camera was
xed on the right breast of the participant in an oblique
view to get a whole breast image within the view of the
scanner. Taking an image in an oblique view is necessary
since reference points on the side would not appeared in a
single image if the angle of view is straight ahead to the mid
sagittal line. For sagging breasts, the under breast point
(UBP) or the under breast curve is impossible to detect. In
this case, two semi-transparent cellophane tapes (150 mm
length 18 mm width) were used to lift the middle of breast
just until the image of the under breast curve could be
observed barely not to distort the line of the under breast
curve (Lee et al., 2004). Locations of the measurement
points on the 3D image of under breast curve are shown in
Fig. 1 and other measurement method was followed by the
previous research (Lee et al., 2004).
In this study, a useful shape parameters called global
average radius of curvature dened as the radius of the
circle that passes the three points that are not collinear, was
used as a measurement variable in the analysis instead of
conventional denition of radius of curvature based on
calculation of the adjacent three points. It is because that
position of three adjacent points are rather unstable due to
noise in the 3D scanning image, which resulted in
considerable changes in the conventional radius of
curvature as discussed in the previous paper (Lee et al.,
2004). If three points on the under breast curve were
selected farther enough such as IBP, UBP, and I which is
the farthest point from the straight line passing IBP and
UBP as illustrated in Fig. 1, the information on the global
bust point
BP
IBP
OBP
OBC
O
UBP
IBC
(UBP ~ IBP)
(UBP ~ OBP)
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379
W =A
at 30mm elongation,
Dl=l
W =A
,
Dd
Wide : 135mm
Medium : 125mm
Narrow : 115mm
3
Outer
end
points
2 1
Inner
end
points
Inner part
Outer part
4
(B)
(A)
UBP
5 mm
5 mm
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Table 2
Geometrical and mechanical properties of experimental wires before wearing (mean values of three measurements)
Hard wire
Narrow
Global average radius of curvature of IBC (mm)
Global average radius of curvature of OBC (mm)
Ratio of global average radius of curvature (IBC/OBC)
Initial bending modulus (N/mm2)
Bending rigidity (N/mm2)
Tortsional rigidity (N/mm2 mm)
Inner part
Outer part
Width (mm)
Area of cross section (mm2)
Material
Soft wire
Medium
Wide
58.7
61.6
66.6
69.3
72.0
80.1
0.85
0.85
0.83
90.5
84.1
96.5
29.8
24.3
32.5
1.30E02 1.31E02 1.50E02
9.22E03 8.04E03 8.53E03
115
125
135
2.2 (breadth) 1.0 (thickness)
Steel
10
8
6
4
2
0
Narrow
Medium
Wide
Body
Medium
Wide
76.2
73.3
1.04
81.7
28.7
1.30E02
9.22E03
133
58.7
61.6
66.6
69.3
72.0
80.1
0.85
0.85
0.83
75.2
54.3
76.6
18.7
19.3
22.7
7.85E03 8.44E03 8.63E03
4.51E03 5.00E03 4.91E03
115
125
135
2.0 (breadth) 1.0 (thickness)
Steel
Body
76.2
73.3
1.04
64.1
18.8
7.36E03
5.30E03
133
14
12
Narrow
14
Body
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Narrow
Medium
Wide
Body
Fig. 4. Overall wear comfort of the experimental brassieres for each breast type (*: signicantly different at a 0:05).
3. Results
To nd the objective evidence of the subjective preferences to a certain type of brassiere depending on the breast
type, the performance of the experimental wires were
evaluated by analyzing 3D images of the breast before and
after wearing experimental brassieres, as summarized in
Tables 3 and 4 and Fig. 6. Generally the global average
radius of curvature of the IBC decreased after subject wore
brassiere as in Table 3, while the global average radius of
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Skwed type (Hardwire)
14
*
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Narrow
Medium
Wide
381
Body
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Narrow Medium
Wide
Body
Fig. 5. Wearers satisfaction with the shape of breast of the experimental brassieres for each breast type (*: signicantly different at a 0:05).
Table 3
The effect of wearing of Hard wires on the global average radius of curvature
Before wearing
(nude)
Shape of under
breast curve
Global average
radius of curvature
of IBC (mm)
Global average
radius of curvature
of OBC (mm)
Ratio of global
average radius of
curvature (IBC/
OBC)
After wearing
Narrow
Medium
Wide
Body
Average
86.8
66.7b
65.9b
67.1b
72.1a
Skewed type
Symmetrical type
Average
94.3
84.5
60.5
65.1
67.3
73.3b
66.5
65.7
73.3b
70.4
66.2
80.1a
71.9
72.2
72.3b
Skewed type
Symmetrical type
Average
53.6
62.6
1.46
72.6
73.6
0.91b
71.1
74.0
0.90b
80.2
80.1
0.84c
72.8
72.1
1.00a
Skewed type
Symmetrical type
1.76
1.36
0.90
0.92
0.94
0.89
0.88
0.83
0.99
1.00
Results from Duncan grouping a 0:05 within each breast type. The same letter indicates that there is no signicant difference.
Table 4
The effect of wearing of Hard wires on the height of bust point
Before wearing (nude)
After wearing
Narrow
Height of BP (mm)
Average
Skewed type
Symmetrical type
52.2
56.8
50.8
41.7
42.1
41.6
Medium
b
39.1
41.1
38.5
Wide
39.7
41.3
39.3
Body
40.3ab
42.1
39.7
Results from Duncan grouping a 0:05 within each breast type. The same letter indicates that there is no signicant difference.
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382
10
5
0
-5
Narrow Medium
Wide
Body
-10
Deformation of wires in
width direction (mm)
Deformation of wires in
width direction (mm)
15
10
5
0
-5
-10
Narrow Medium
Wide
Body
Fig. 6. Deformation of wires in width direction after wearing measured by X-displacement between inner and outer end points of wires. Original width:
narrow wire (115.0 mm), medium wire (125.0 mm), wide wire (135.0 mm), body wire (133.0 mm). Width after wearing in skewed type: narrow wire
(127.2 mm), medium wire (125.2 mm), wide wire (132.1 mm), body wire (129.9 mm). Width after wearing in symmetrical type: narrow wire (125.4 mm),
medium wire (124.4 mm), wide wire (129.3 mm), body wire (125.6 mm).
Fig. 7. Representative curves of nude breast curve along with those of the
best and the worst wire on the 3D shells obtained by registration (left: an
image around the outer breast curve for the symmetrical type, right: an
image around the inner breast curve for the skewed type).
5
OBC
IBC
3
3
2
2
1
1
UBP
Fig. 8. Subdivision of the wire for the calculation of the global average
radius of curvature (* is a critical region for the performance of the best
wire in the case of the skewed type).
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0.6
Subjects
Nude (mm)
Worst wire:
Medium (mm)
0.5
1
2
3
4
86.7
103.2
133.6
94.5
69.7
67.2
68.9
78.2
67.0
61.7
60.2
60.1
Stress (N /mm2)
Table 5
Comparisons of the global average radius of the curvature along the inner
breast points of Sections 24 in Fig. 8 (for the skewed type)
Comfortable range of
torsional rigidity
(0.013 ~ 0.017 N / mm2. mm
y = 0.0129x
y = 0.0547x
0.4
y = 0.0170x
y = 0.0078x
0.3
0.2
0.1
383
y = 0.0131x
0.0
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
Displacement (mm)
Fig. 9. Comfortable range of torsional rigidity of brassiere wires.
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