Lingerie Insight 082016

AUGUST 2016 / VOL 07 ISSUE 08
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THE LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR
COLLECTIONS SET TO
FEATURE AT THE EVENT
THE LINGERIE EDIT:

BUYERS AND BRANDS
REVIEW THE LONDON SHOW
BREXIT AND BEYOND:
HOW WILL THE LEAVE VOTE
AFFECT YOUR BUSINESS?
Female power
SIX LEADING WOMEN IN
RETAIL ON HOW THEY
MADE IT TO THE TOP
Northern stars
INDEPENDENT LINGERIE
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North European tting
Contents
VOLUME 07 ISSUE 08
7 | Front
intimate apparel exhibition,

The Lingerie Edit, plus
leading buyers and exhibiting
brands give their verdict on
the event.
The latest headlines

A round-up of this months
top stories from lingerie,
hosiery, nightwear and
swimwear industries.
19 | Regional focus
11 | Web highlights
Northern stars
Whats online?
We meet four independent

lingerie retailers based in the
North West of England to
nd out how business is
fairing and how the high
streets in their local areas
have changed over the years.
The most read-stories on

Lingerieinsight.com last
month, plus Editors picks
and lingerie tweets.
12 | Legally Speaking
16
Brexit debate
Tim OCallaghan is a partner
in Druces LLP, specialising
in advice to the fashion and
luxury goods business. In this
months column, he discusses
what impact the EU
Referendum could have on
your lingerie business.
14 | Expert opinion
Women in retail
The UK government made
history last month with the
election of Britains second
female prime minister. But, in
2016, the retail industry still
has a long way to go in narrowing the gender gap, with
only 10% of women making
up executive boards in the
sector. We spoke to six top
female leaders working in
lingerie and fashion retail to
discover the reasons behind
gender disparity in the
industry and explain what
paths theyve taken on their
routes to success.
14
Euromonitor analysis
Euromonitor Internationals
analyst for apparel and
footwear, Bernadette Kissane,
seeks to understand the
potential challenges and
opportunities presented to
fashion retailers and brands
following the Britains vote to
leave the EU.
16 | The Lingerie Edit
Trade show review

A round-up of the show highlights from Londons luxury
22
Check out
Our second edition
of Swimwear Insight,
featuring interviews,
products
and trends
22 | Female power
28 | Moda lingerie
Trade show preview
28
We pick out the lingerie and

nightwear highlights from
the bi-annual trade show,
which takes place Birminghams NEC this month.
Brands from Anita Care to
Wacoal feature.
34 | Social Lite
Party pictures
19
LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2016 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
The people, the places and

the scenes at the most
glamorous lingerie events in
the world this month.
WACOALLINGERIE.COM
V I S I T U S AT M O DA
H A L L 6 S TA N D L B 2 3
COMMENT WELCOME
Why is retail lacking in female leaders?

Theresa May, Angela Merkel, Nicola Sturgeon.
These are the new faces of politics women who
have risen from a sector dominated by men.
Outside of Europe, meanwhile, Hillary Clinton
is the favourite to take the US presidency
in November.
In 2016, young girls can take for granted that a
woman can be president, as Michelle Obama said
in a stirring speech that brought a Democratic
convention to tears last month.
Why then, when it comes to the retail sector,
are we still lacking in female leaders? According
to a new report published by Women in Retail,
an inspirational and inclusive community for
accomplished and emerging leaders, and management consultancy Elixirr, women
make up just 10% and 20% of retailers executive boards and teams respectively,
despite 60% of total retail employees being women and 85% of purchase decisions
being made or inuenced by women.
Whats more disappointing is that female retail CEOs are actually in decline
over the last 12 months the percentage of women holding the top jobs in the
industry have dropped from 25% to 15%, according to Retail Week.
So what are the reasons behind these gures? We spoke to six leading women
in retail, from Ann Summers CEO Jacqueline Gold to House of Frasers chief
customer officer Alison Lancaster to hear their thoughts on the matter and nd out
what routes they took on the road to success. Go to p22 for the full feature.
Also in this issue, we got in touch with four independent lingerie retailers in the
North West to nd out how business is fairing in their local areas. And Euromonitor
International apparel and footwear analyst Bernadette Kissane discusses the
potential impact of Brexit on lingerie stores in the UK.
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EDITOR, LINGERIE INSIGHT
August Cover
Model wears: Lingerie by Dutch
brand Ten Cate. Go to page 28 for
details of the brands SS17 collection.
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NEWS REVIEW
THIS MONTH IN LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR
FRONT
NEWS IN BRIEF
WEB HIGHLIGHTS
8
11
Exclusive: M&S defends lingerie

tting service after Facebook blasting
arks & Spencer

has responded to
an open letter that
criticises its bra tting service
and its range of intimate
apparel available in store.
The open letter, entitled
Oh M&S, where did it all go
wrong?, was penned by Boob or
Bust, a Facebook group set up to
offer bra measuring advice.
The letter, which was sent
to Lingerie Insight last month,
includes the results of a study

conducted by Boob or Bust on
its 17,000 plus followers.
The aim of the research was
to gain customer feedback
on M&S bra tting services
after it was reported in The
Telegraph that the retailer
is setting up a panel of
shareholders that will shape its
turnaround strategy.
The study found that 70%
of respondents have had a
bad tting experience when

visiting an M&S store.
Boob or Bust attributed this
feedback to M&S using the
old plus 4 tting method,
which involves measuring the
underbust and adding four
inches to calculate a back size.
But Marks & Spencer
said that this statement is
factually inaccurate.
We have not used the plus
4 method for quite some time
and the current method for bra

t has been developed in-house
by our team of experts and
has been in place for over ve
years, an M&S spokesperson
told Lingerie Insight.
The letter also claims that
M&S needs a better range
of bras after 546 survey
respondents said they struggle
to nd bras in J or K cups.
story continues on page 9
FOR THE LATEST LINGERIE INDUSTRY NEWS AND INSIGHT HEAD TO

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2016 LINGERIEINSIGHT
FRONT
NEWS REVIEW
news review
campaign on Indiegogo.com
on July 27 in the hope of raising funds through pre-orders
so the belts can be manufacturerd.
Jacqueline Gold, the

CEO of Ann Summers and
Knickerbox, has been awarded
a CBE for her services to entrepreneurship. She collected
the award from the Princess
Royal at an investiture
ceremony at Windsor Castle
on July 12. Gold began her
career at Ann Summers at the
age of 21 as an intern with no
formal business training. She
immediately saw the potential
to change the business to be
focussed on women, creating
an environment through the
Party Plan model that would
allow women to shop for lingerie and sex toys in a safe,
empowering environment.
Following a successful launch
of the Party Plan business in
1980, Gold was appointed CEO
in 1993 and shortly after this
launched the rst Ann Summers store on to the British
high street with an e-commerce site launching in 1999.
A British plus-size model has
invented what she claims to
be the worlds rst magnetic
suspender belt. Ella Vine
worked in partnership with
the Essex Innovation Programme, a government initiative for start-ups, to develop
NeoMagTriple technology
used in the patent-pending
belt. She launched the product
to market via a crowdfunding
Breast care brand Amoena

has teamed up with top-end
swimwear designer Melissa
Odabash to create a range of
designer swimwear for women
who have had breast cancer
surgery. The capsule collection,
which launched at the London
Swimwear Show on July 17,
will help raise funds for
gerie will be Victorias Secret

signature scents, body care
collections and Victorias
Secret PINK, a collection of
underwear, loungewear and
beauty products inspired by
and focused on universityaged women.
Bluebella is making a big
push into America, with two
new stockists under its belt.
The award-winning lingerie
brand will go on sale at US
retail giant Nordstrom in
September. It will also be
available at the exclusive New
York lingerie store Journelle
later in the autumn. CEO Emily Bendell is lining up fresh
deals with other retail partners and is planning a publicity blitz to support sales at new
outlets. Bendell said: We want
to make a big splash in
America. Weve always been a
brand that likes to be noticed
and really want get our name
out there. Britain has a
breast cancer charity

Future Dreams, with a portion of every sale going directly
to the charity. The launch
was supported by a marketing
campaign fronted by Sky News
presenter, former Olympic
gymnast and ambassador of
Future Dreams, Jacquie
Beltrao, who has openly discussed her breast cancer diagnosis and subsequent surgery.
Victorias Secret has opened
its new North West agship at
Liverpool ONE. The 9,200ft2
store, located on South John
Street, features a full assortment of Victorias Secrets
lingerie collections, including
Body by Victoria, Very Sexy,
Dream Angels, Bombshell
and Cotton lingerie, as well
as Victoria Sport. Alongside
the brands best-selling lin-
population of 64 million
compared to Americas 320
million that is ve times as
many customers.
French brand Carioca
Collection has rebranded as
Calarena to help speed up
international expansion and
better reect its origins. The
premium label, which was established on the French island

of Corsica in 2004, rebranded
after realising that its original
Brazilian-sounding name
didnt truly express its roots
and heritage. Calarena is the
name of a Porto Vecchio
inlet that was trendy hotspot
in Corsica in the 1960s. The
name evokes a lifestyle inspired by the landscapes of
Corsica, also known as the
island of beauty.
Iconic swimwear brand,
Seafolly, has unveiled a SS16
campaign that pays tribute to
its Australian heritage. The
campaign is a modern
reection of Seafollys history,
featuring striking imagery
shot in Byron Bay, where
the brand was founded in
1975. Australian supermodel
Shanina Shaik (pictured)
stars in the Welcome to Byron
Bay campaign, along with two
of her best friends and fellow
models, Nadine Leopold
and Hannah Ferguson. The
models can be seen taking
surf lessons, catching up with
locals and visiting Stingrays
Swim Club in a photoshoot
that reects the Byron Bay
lifestyle.
This is the rst time Seafolly
has featured three models who
embody the Seafolly beach
lifestyle in one campaign.
story continued from page 7
M&S defended its product

offering, saying: We offer 113
different bra sizes from a
AA cup through to a J, and
many of our ranges come in 44
different sizes.
The letter went on to say that
shoppers visiting M&S also nd
it difficult to nd pretty bras
in extended sizes.
Responding to this
feedback, M&S said: Our
DD+ bras are developed to
ensure that the garments
offer appropriate support and
comfort alongside style. For
example, Rosie for Autograph
bras, which come in beautiful
silks and lace, go up to a 40G.
Boob or Bust also revealed
that 52 survey respondents
said M&S needs to offer
more mastectomy bras aimed
at younger women above a
DD cup.
Once again, M&S defended
its product offering. The
spokesperson said: Our postsurgery range is the largest
on the high street, with 25
bras and swimwear products
available, with some products
available up to a G cup.
The retailer also explained
that its Angel range of bras
have been designed following
Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley models
the Rosie for
Autograph range
extensive research during the

early stages of development,
after some customers said
M&S needs to offer a better
range of teen sizes.
The range starts art
28AA and goes up to an E cup
different styles and includes
non-padded, padded, nonwired and wired styles, to
ensure maximum comfort
and modesty at different
stages of development, giving
our customers plenty of
choice for their individual
needs, it said.
Concluding its defence, M&S
said it had taken the feedback
from the study on board and
is dedicated to meeting the
needs of its customers.
As the UKs leading lingerie
retailer, we listen and talk to
18,000 customers a week about
every aspect of t, design
and comfort to ensure we are
offering them the widest
choice possible, the
spokesperson said.
We offer 113 different bra
sizes and 1,300 different bras
at any one time, and around
50,000 women are measured
every week using our bra
t service, which has been
specially developed by our inhouse team of experts.
Keep up-to-date with

Lingerieinsight.com
Lingerieinsight.com provides business

intelligence for the owners, buyers, decision
makers and key management personnel in
the lingerie, swimwear, hosiery and nightwear
sectors in the UK.
Sign up for free at www.lingerieinsight.com
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DANIEL MALINS
T 020 3176 4225 E daniel.malins@itppromedia.com
FRONT NEWS REVIEW
news review
Wacoal Europe has announced that it has sold the

lingerie and swimwear brand
Huit to Trendy Capital,
owner of French nightwear
brand Canat. The decision
has been made in line with
Wacoal Europes strategy to
grow its fuller bust business
and expand its European and
international presence.
Wacoal Europe said that despite investing heavily in trying to improve Huits success
since it bought the business
10
out of administration in 2010,

a highly saturated competitor
market has meant the business has resisted any signicant growth. Trendy Capital
acquired Huit on July 9 after
fending off competition from
several other interested parties, according to Wacoal. Under the new ownership, Huit
will be known as Huit France.
Debenhams has emerged
victorious in a bidding war
with Sports Direct to acquire
its own business in Ireland.
The parent company sought off
competition from UK billionaire Mike Ashley, who owns
Sports Direct and is a shareholder in Debenhams, reports
The Irish Independent. Ashley
has been vying to secure a bigger foothold in Ireland after
acquiring Irish department
store Heatons earlier this
year. The news follows the announcement that Debenhams
Retail (Ireland) has sought

examinership because of consistent losses sustained since
the recession in 2007.
Agent Provocateur has
named Australian fashion
model and actress Abbey
Lee Kershaw as the face of
its AW16 campaign. The announcement comes ahead
of the release of the eroticpsychological horror lm, The
Neon Demon, which Kershaw
stars in alongside Elle Fanning
and Keanu Reeves.
Prole Sport, a new sports

swimwear label, has joined
the Gottex house of brands.
Its debut collection offers
supportive, functional and
fashionable pieces, including
leggings, crop tops, tankinis
and scuba styles to be worn
for activities in and out of the
water. Classic shapes have
been reinterpreted with racer
backs, supportive mesh textures for ventilation, long zip
pullers and UV-protective
properties.
NEWS REVIEW
MOST READ ONLINE
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
FRONT
Editors Choice
Is this the worlds most diverse

lingerie ad?
IN PICS: WGSN names top ve
lingerie brands to watch
COLLECTION
VIDEO
Lepel swimwear SS17
Coco de Mer AW16
New collection features on-trend

prints, feminine shapes and
warm colourways.
Famed photographer, Rankin, takes

viewers behind the scenes of his
photoshoot for the boudoir brand.
VFB unveils results of major

revamp at Mode City
NEWS
INSPIRATION
Retail industry analysts react

to Brexit vote
Lyon move hinders

Mode City success
The Lingerie Edit names

Best Brand winners
Visitor numbers were down 21%

on 2015, trade show organisers
have revealed.
Loveday London and Inamorata

will be offered a free stand at the
next trade show.
SNEAK PEEK: Charnos lingerie

SS17
New knicker brand launches
panties to go
National bikini day: History of
the two piece
Former Topshop lingerie
buyer launches new label
Wacoal Europe sells Huit to
French buyer
The Lingerie Edit names

Best Brand Award winners
Lingerie Tweets
Just saw the most gorgeous
It was so lovely to be part of this
#fullbust @Elomi_lingerie bra in
roundtable debate hosted by
@LingerieInsight! Coming next
Lingerie Insight. Thank you so
spring
much for inviting me
@estylingerie
@annabellemuazu
Thanks @wgsn for naming us one
A third of women wear just two
of the top 5 lingerie brands to
bras on rotation @LingerieInsight.
watch!
Well that needs to change!
@sereneintimates
@BeijaLingerie
11
EXPERT OPINION
LEGALLY SPEAKING
TIM OCALLAGHAN
Legally Speaking
Tim OCallaghan is a partner in Druces LLP, specialising in advice to the fashion and luxury goods
business. In this months column, he discusses what impact Brexit could have on your lingerie business
ollowing the referendum result,

the UKs future relationship
with the European Union (EU)
and the mechanics of its exit
from the EU will now be the
subject of speculated and careful negotiation.
The intimate apparel sector is, by its
nature, international, and usually very
European, with lace coming from France
and cotton coming from Italy.
The politicians negotiations will affect
intimate apparel businesses, just as they will
affect other businesses, but with the
uncertainty surrounding the outcome of
these negotiations, the intimate apparel
solicitors telephone is very nearly melting
with questions about the votes impact.
Here I try to pour some water on the re
of Brexit opinion by drawing on
commentary received and on my own
experience of questions on the topic.
What is the supply chain exposure to
the EU?
You will no doubt have considered the
impact of a loss of free movement of
goods and/or services mean to the
business. You would also do well to
consider the foreign exchange risk in the
current economic climate caused by
Brexit uncertainty.
Will I still be able to bring EU
nationals to the UK to work?
While the UK is a member of the EU, free
movement of EU labour will remain.
Immigration will continue after
withdrawal, but whether EU nationals
will require visas is dependent on the
future UK/EU withdrawal agreement.
But everyone agrees that skilled,
productive people from all over the world
will continue to be welcome in the UK.
12
Is your lingerie business in receipt

of signicant EU funding?
If so, this may disappear post-Brexit.
Consider alternative funding options now.
Does the business have commercial
agreements in place that are subject
to the competition law rules?
Post-Brexit changes to competition rules
or guidance could mean that these need to
be revisited.
How should this be communicated to
staff and third parties?
Staff responsible for liaising with
customers and suppliers will need to
understand the business position on
key contractual issues, and all staff,
customers and suppliers will have a
vested interest in hearing the essential
statement of these times business is
open for business as usual.
What to review:
Your standard terms and conditions
(Ts&Cs) with both suppliers and
customers, online Ts&Cs and any bespoke
contracts with the same, together with
business contracts
What to prioritise:
Initially, you should focus on those
contracts which are larger in terms of
either volume or income/cost and which
have a clear EU connection.
Review with your solicitor:
Which contracts need to be renegotiated
to avoid contractual uncertainty.
Remember that concerns are likely to
be as great within those countries
remaining within the EU as for
UK businesses.
For each individual contract consider:

Identifying the territorial scope of all
existing key contracts. Where this refers
to the EU, consider negotiating an
amendment to refer to the EU and the
UK. Where negotiating new contracts
consider referring to the EU as at
contract signature (which will include
the UK, if that is the desired outcome).
The exchange rate between the UK and
other countries has seen the pound
uctuate signicantly. Future
uctuations can be mitigated by
hedging the foreign exchange risk with
a bank, which will transfer the foreign
exchange risk from your business to
the bank.
Checking whether contracts are linked
to specic currencies. Check both the
currency of the price and the currency
of payment, which may be specied
separately. Consider amending the
clause to set uctuation thresholds
which would allow the parties to switch
currencies according to market
conditions or to re-price the contract.
Personal data transfers: consider which
parts of the business are dependent
upon the ability to transfer data
between the UK and the EU.
Next Steps
Having read all of this you may be
nervous about the position of your
business. You may have already
experienced detriments or benets. Such a
rupture is bound to bring changes, but we
may not see them for many years. Do not
forget that change is also the herald of
opportunity and the intimate apparel
businesses that are most nimble and able to
adapt to this change are the ones that are
most likely to survive.
F A N TA S I E L I N G E R I E . C O M
V I S I T U S A T M O D A - H A L L 6 S TA N D L B 2 3
EXPERT OPINION
BREXIT
Fashion Industry Post-Brexit:
Business as Usual?
Brexit won the vote and the UK now nds itself in a state of ux. Quantifying its
impact is difficult, and speculation is inevitable, given the volatile, unpredictable and
unprecedented political scenario. Consumer condence, expenditure, price pressure
and sterling depreciation are just a few of the immediate concerns.
At a time dened by unknown unknowns, Euromonitor International analyst for apparel
and footwear, Bernadette Kissane, seeks to understand the potential challenges and
opportunities presented to fashion retailers and brands
Recession resilience
Globally, the apparel and footwear industry managed to record value growth of 1%
at the height of the recession during 2009,
bouncing back to pre-crisis levels in 2010,
with 6% growth; this impressive performance illustrates the industrys resilience
during tough economic times. More
specically, in the UK, a similar pattern
occurred; although growth at lined, the
industry did not experience the substantial losses of other consumer goods areas
such as home and garden. Interestingly,
womens underwear proved to be one of
the most robust product categories in the
UK during the nancial crisis. After a drop
in growth during 2009, the category
picked up pace quickly, peaking in 2012
with 6% growth.
According to Euromonitor Internationals Macro Model, GDP growth in the
UK is expected to fall to 1.5% in 2016,
with the biggest impact felt during 2017,
with an estimated 1.0% GDP rise, a modest gure in comparison to the decline of
4.2% experienced in 2009. However, as
uncertainty lingers, the potential for a
disorderly exit, in which the UK leaves
the EU in 2019 without having reached
an agreement, has the potential to knock
the country back into a recession. In
contrast, the more promising economic
outlook would involve no Brexit with all
14
Source: Euromonitor International
trade agreements remaining in place providing a signicant boost to the economy.

It is likely the reality will be somewhere
in the middle, with the referendum result
causing a considerable economic

slowdown, nonetheless, given the UK has
entered uncharted territory, anything
could happen.
BREXIT
EXPERT OPINION
Brexit intensies an already

challenging environment
Growth of apparel and footwear in the UK
has been slowing over the last few years,
reecting a similar trend occurring
throughout Europe. In 2015, France,
Italy, Greece and the Netherlands all contracted in terms of market size, while the
UKs growth fell to 1%, with both womens
and mens underwear already experiencing slight declines. In contrast, emerging
markets such as Turkey and Romania
ourished as the middle class expanded
and international brands such as H&M
rapidly expanded. Europes continued
love affair with fast fashion, the discounting addiction of retailers and the growing
importance of online retailing have all
had an adverse impact on pricing, dampening value growth and intensifying the
increasingly competitive nature of the
industry. In the UK, companies are faced
with having to implement the National
Living Wage, while managing multiple
sales channels, keeping up with emerging
trends and adapting to changing consumer behaviour. Brexit may pose challenges
for business, but it is certainly not the
only factor requiring a exible and reactive business model.
Source: Euromonitor International
Currency headwinds paint a

mixed picture
Typically, a rocky economic climate results in lower consumer condence and a
surge in demand for low-priced products
as consumers trade down in a bid to
harvest the remains of their disposable
income. However, low-price/high-volume
retailers such as Primark and New Look
are likely to be hit hardest given the
currency volatility. With signicant
proportions of stock sourced from the Far
East, where orders are typically placed in
US dollars, the increase in costs places
further pressure on pricing. Margins are
already thin and justifying higher price
points may prove more difficult for value
brands than for premium labels, given
their brand positioning is based on rockbottom pricing. Although fast fashion and
private label brands are expected to
continue to attract price-conscious consumers in the coming months, trading
conditions for this kind of format will be
much tougher than during the 2008
recession. Brands that are able to absorb
the impact of currency headwinds
through hedging arrangements will nd
themselves in a benecial position in the
short term; however, 2017 could prove
more challenging as uncertainty deepens
and markets react to the ongoing negotiations between the UK and the EU.
Operational challenges
Euromonitor International
analyst for apparel and footwear,
Bernadette Kissane
Above all, Brexit poses considerable operational and logistical challenges for
businesses. As the rst country to leave
the EU (aside from Greenland), there are
no reference books to take notes from;
instead businesses are faced with a multitude of potential scenarios. Sourcing
strategies will need reviewing, whether
production takes place inside or outside

the EU. Companies that have a large cost
base in the EU, but depend on customers
in the UK, or vice versa, will be most affected. For example, the lingerie specialist
that relies on lace from France, produces
in Poland and generates the majority of
sales in the UK is likely to encounter more
issues than those that source from Turkey
or Cambodia. Another option for British
fashion brands may be to bring production back home. In the era of fast fashion,
shorter lead times result in better
sell-throughs, while the Made in Britain
label enhances brand image and portrays
quality, credibility and style, and there
will always be customers willing to pay for
the provenance.
Time to stop lamenting

It has been conrmed that EU
negotiations will take at least two years
and this begins only when Article 50 has
been submitted, which in itself could take
some time. In the meantime, while Brexit
continues to dominate the news, the UK
remains very much open for business,
and the business of fashion does not live
by the political turmoil in Europe alone.
Consumers will continue to buy clothes,
albeit they may be more selective in the
process, but there is a myriad of opportunities to tap into: the mobile revolution,
smart fabrics and the integration of fashion and technology to name but a few.
Dedicating this time in limbo to building
innovative products and providing
additional value will secure market positioning and equip brands with the tools
needed to efficiently handle what is to
come. In other words, prepare for the
worst, hope for the best and expect something in between.
15
EVENTS
THE LINGERIE EDIT
LAND OF LUXURY
A round-up of the show highlights from Londons luxury
intimate apparel exhibition, The Lingerie Edit
ix seasons since it rst opened

its doors at the opulent Savoy
Hotel, The Lingerie Edit,
Londons trade event for premium intimates brands, is still
creating a buzz in the industry.
In the wake of Brexit, speculation is
rife over how the leave vote could hit
consumer condence.
But this didnt seem to put off
leading buyers from visiting The Lingerie
Edit and stocking up on quality lingerie
and swimwear last month.
While British shoppers are refraining
from buying big-ticket items as they brace
themselves for an economic slowdown,
investors are aware that the recessionproof luxury lingerie industry remains
resilient, with consumers still turning to
underwear as their treat purchase.
Key retailers who attended The Lingerie
Edit on July 14-15 included ASOS, Brown
Thomas, Fenwick Bond Street, Shop
Direct, Harvey Nichols, Dolci Follie, Coco
de Mer and House of Fraser.
16
Event organisers were especially thrilled

with the international footfall, with
visitors travelling from the UAE, Iceland,
Romania, Russia, Italy, Japan, China and
Australia especially for the show.
Annabelle Muazu, founder of luxury
online lingerie retailer Beautifully Undressed, explains why she attends The
Lingerie Edit: Ive attended the show
since its inception and enjoyed each one.
The brand selection is always on point,
with a fantastic mix of established and upand-coming designers in lingerie, loungewear and swimwear, and weve taken on
some wonderful brands as result of viewing
their collections at TLE, she continues.
I love the boutique feel, in the opulent
Savoy Hotel and the atmosphere is always
so calm and warm. Its a wonderful meeting point too, enabling people to catch up
with colleagues and see the new collections
rst hand.
Lucy Litwack, managing director of London-based Coco de Mer, says she was unable to attend Mode City in Lyon this year,
so she chose to view the latest lingerie

collections closer to home.
I always enjoy attending The Lingerie
Edit in London. This season, there
seemed to be a lot more brands exhibiting
and there was a real buzz to the show,
she adds.
Ultimo presented
a new shapewear
range at TLE
THE LINGERIE EDIT
A record 45 brands exhibited at The Lingerie Edit this season. The line-up was
varied, with big names like Ultimo and
ITEM m6, alongside new independents
like Rossell England and Aima Dora
showcasing their SS17 collections.
Ultimo chose to exhibit at The Lingerie
Edit after a two-year hiatus from trade
shows, during which time it has focused on
strengthening its product offering under
new leadership.
The brand presented is SS17
lingerie collection, inspired by the 1980s,
alongside its continuity lines and two new
shapewear collections.
Standout pieces include the Estelle removable gel balcony bra in a bright shade
of purple and the Paulina OMG plunge bra
featuring blush lace on a white base.
Other established brands making their
TLE debut included Emma Harris, Playful
Promises and Fleur of England.
Emma Harris, which was founded in
2008, has mainly focused on driving its
ecommerce sales and now wants to expand
its presence in UK boutiques.
For SS17, the label continues to explore
1920s and 30s elegance. Art Decoinspired designs are contrasted with soft
gathers and lace inserts.
Fleur of England presented its second
resortwear collection at the show after a
successful launch 12 months ago.
The Resort by Fleur range has already
launched in luxury boutiques such as Dolci
Follie in the UK and at Nancy Meyer in the
US, and now its back with exciting new
colourways, prints and cover-ups for SS17.
The Wanderlust collection is inspired by
luxury resort getaways like St. Lucia, where
Clockwise from the

top: Loveday London,
Emma Harris and
Resort by Fleur
designer and founder Fleur Turner

recently holidayed.
Turner also showcased her luxury
lingerie collection, which has been given a
sexy update this season, with ouvert briefs,
directional strap details, invisible tulle and
ery red embroidery.
Meanwhile, British boudoir Playful
Promises showcased its new full-gure
collection, featuring briefs and suspender
belts in UK sizes 18-24 and bras in sizes 38
B-G and 40-42 C-G.
Anna Sampson, brand manager of
Playful Promises comments on her rst
time exhibiting: It worked well for us to
show our collections to lingerie-specic
buyers in a central London location.
This kept our costs low and ensured all
of the buyers were there for lingerie, as
opposed to other trade shows, which are
Best brand winners

The Lingerie Edit has announced
the winners of its Best Brand
Awards, voted for by buyers and
the press.
Loveday London, the self-titled
hardcore romance label, claimed the
Buyers Best Brand Award for the
fourth time in the shows history.
Founder and director, Luisa
Loveday, was surprised and thrilled
to have nabbed the TLE Award
again, commenting: Im shocked!
EVENTS
Im so grateful for Loveday London

to have won the award again, thank
you to everyone who voted for us.
Debuting brand, Inamorata, also
received recognition, with visiting
buyers and press selecting the boudoir label as the Best New Brand.
Both brands will be offered a free
stand at the next TLE show, as part
of The Lingerie Edits continued
efforts to support the intimates
industry and new labels.
more clothing-based. Our stand location

was great and the environment of the
Savoy was appealing.
Returning exhibitors included Pure
Chemistry, Gilda & Pearl, Bluebella, Mimi
Holliday and Belle et BonBon.
Pure Chemistry, one of the many madein-Britain brands exhibiting at the show,
presented its SS17 collection, A Gentlemans Love Story, inspired by vintage
streets in London.
Commenting on returning to the show,
managing director Dimple Rani Lal says:
Apart from a great location, stunning venue and buzzing atmosphere, The Lingerie
Edit is denitely one of the top lingerie
trade shows for us to take part in. It is well
organised and everyone is really friendly
and helpful.
Fellow British brand Gilda & Pearl
impressed buyers with its new luxury
loungewear collection, featuring an
exclusive Jardin and Lillies print
designed in collaboration with Australian
photographer Harriet Clare.
The range features a long kaftan, a long
slip with a cross back, a short slip, shorts
and a camisole made of pure silk.
International brands were also in attendance, including ITEM m6 (Germany),
MinkPink (US) and Ella Moss (Canada).
Account manager for ITEM m6, Ulla
Lane-Rowley, comments: We had some
great meetings with key London department stores, online retailers and luxury
independents from as far as Iceland,
Moscow and Melbourne. Overall, it was
another great TLE event.
17
AUGUST 2016 / VOL 07 ISSUE 02

www.lingerieinsight.com
Survival story
THE HEART-WARMING TALE OF

HOW GOTTEX WAS FOUNDED
Countdown to Rio
SCIENTIFIC SWIMWEAR SET TO MAKE
A SPLASH AT THE OLYMPIC GAMES
Summer time
HOT SWIMWEAR TRENDS TO

LOOK OUT FOR THIS SEASON
FUN IN
THE SUN
THE SS17 TRADE SHOW SEASON IS

ABOUT TO REACH ITS CONCLUSION,
BUT NOT BEFORE MODA PUTS
SWIMWEAR IN THE SPOTLIGHT. WE
PICK OUT THE EVENT HIGHLIGHTS
Designed for the urban woman who expects

best-in-class, multi-purpose garments
that move with her as she transitions
between performance sport,
active occasions or leisure time.
The ideal combination of
LYCRA and LYCRA MOVES are trademarks of INVISTA
STYLE, PERFORMANCE
and COMFORT.
Proud
headline sponsor of
MODA Lingerie
& Swimwear
NEC Birmingham
07 - 09 August 2016
LC49
www.connect.LYCRA.com
WELCOME COMMENT
Editors Letter
Welcome to
the latest issue
of Swimwear
Insight
16
10
VOLUME 07 ISSUE 02
Contents
This Issue
Countdown to Rio
Swimwear trends
10
16
In the lead up to the 2016 Rio Olympic Games,

Arena has developed an innovative supersuit
that could blow its competition out of the water.
We pick out the key swimwear and beachwear

trends to look out for in SS17.
Moda preview
We pick out the highlights of the Birmingham
trade show, which takes place at the NEC
this month.
The story of Gottex
If there was ever a

right time to take
stock of swimwear
its now. The global
swimwear and beachwear market is
projected to be
valued at US$22.7bn
(17.3bn) by 2022,
driven by the
growing demand for
active and healthy lifestyles and a strong
preference for beachside holidays, according to
Global Industry Analysts, Inc. Retailers are expected to benet from this growth if they invest
wisely in the three Fs: good-tting, functional
and fashionable garments.
To help you do this, weve picked out the
standout swimwear collections set to be
showcased at this months Moda exhibition in
Birmingham. Brands from Charmline to Vacanze
Italiane feature.
Weve also highlighted the top swimwear
trends to look out for this season, from
geometrics to decorative details.
Also in this special swimwear pullout, we
interview Innovia Technology, a breakthrough
innovation consultant that partnered with
Arena to develop a new supersuit set to
be worn by athletes at the Rio 2016
Olympic Games.
And the CEO and head designer at Gottex
speak exclusively to Lingerie Insight about a new
capsule collection designed to celebrate the
brands 60th anniversary.
Enjoy the issue!
Sarah Clarke
EDITOR, LINGERIE INSIGHT
Gottex is celebrating its 60th anniversary this

year with a collection that pays tribute to its
inspirational founder.
www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2016 SWIMWEARINSIGHT
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
INNOVIA TECHNOLOGY
STROKES AHEAD
In the lead up to the 2016 Rio Olympic Games, Arena has developed
an innovative supersuit that could blow its competition out of the
water. Breakthrough innovation consultant, Innovia, explains how
s swimmers gear up for the

2016 Rio Olympic Games,
Arenas record-breaking
carbon technology suit has
gone to yet another level
with the new Powerskin Carbon-Ultra
suit, the result of the companys work with
Cambridge-based Innovia Technology.
The suit incorporates an outer
carbon cage shell to maximise hydrodynamics with a revolutionary inner
Ultra-Link System to optimise the
athletes physiology.
The power inside concept was inspired
by Arenas work with Innovia Technology,
a global breakthrough innovation consultancy that has brought cutting-edge
science to swimwear.
Innovia has been working with Arena
since 2008, providing new levels of
theoretical understanding into how a
swimsuit can be designed to maximise the
effectiveness of the swimmers actions in
the water.
Their rst collaborative innovation was
the Arena X-Glide, a high-tech swimsuit
that outraced Michael Phelps and made
Time magazines top 50 inventions of 2009.
It was because of its record-breaking
abilities that the suit was the subject of
controversy and was banned from international swimming events in 2010.
But the partners refused to throw in

the towel. Instead, theyve come up with a
new generation of swimsuits designed to
support athletes as they swim, rather than
reducing drag.
SUPERSUIT CONTROVERSY
Anyone who followed the 2008 Beijing
Olympic Games and the World Swimming Championships that took place a
year later will remember the controversy
surrounding the high-tech swimsuits
that helped break more than 100
world records.
We are used to technical improvements
being made to sports equipment like snowboards and tennis rackets to improve
performance, but these whole-body polyurethane swimsuits went a stroke further,
with some products even being accused of
technology doping.
The suits were made from a thin layer of
foam-like material that enclosed tiny
pockets of gas that made the swimmer
wearing the suit to be far more buoyant.
As a result, swimmers oated higher in
the water and were subject to less drag,
according to British physicist and mathematician, John D. Barrow.
SWIMWEARINSIGHT August 2016 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk
The LZR Racer suit by Speedo was

one of the most discussed suits accused of
technology doping. At the 2008 Olympics,
23 out of the 25 world records broken
were broken by swimmers wearing
this suit.
But the controversy didnt end with the
LZR. During the World Swimming Championships in 2009, Michael Phelps was
beaten by Paul Biedermann, a German
athlete wearing the Arena X-glide suit.
As a result, Phelps announced through
his coach, Bob Bowman, that he would
boycott all future international competitions where the new supersuits were
allowed because they were distorting
the sport.
Not surprisingly, in 2010, FINA, the
international governing body of swimming, placed a ban on full-body
polyurethane swimsuits.
FINA stipulated that future swimsuits
should be cut above the knee, must be
made of a textile and could not feature
any fastening devices like zips.
INNOVIA TECHNOLOGY
NEXT GENERATION
Today, the Innovia team admits that
although they are proud of the X-Glide
supersuit, the garment stole the limelight
from athletes at the time.
The suits were a bit of a distraction,
says Dr Robert Moir, an innovation consultant at Innovia. It was an exciting time
for us, but the emphasis was shifted towards the suits away from the swimmers.
Weve now got the situation where the
suits are targeted at supporting the
athletes as they swim, he adds.
The suits were always about supporting
the swimmers, but they are now very much
focussed on supporting the way the swimmer moves rather than focussing on the
interaction with the water, and
reducing drag.
In 2012, Arena and Innovia revolutionised the design and manufacture of racing
swimwear with the launch of Powerskin
Carbon-Pro.
The partners integrated a
carbon cage into the suits
woven fabric, adding a
whole new dimen-
GB athlete Adam Peaty showcases the

Powerskin Carbon-Ultra suit. Credit:
Pentaphoto/arena
sion to the concept of compression by

maximising support and control when and
where its needed.
One of the things that Carbon Pro did
was to introduce a next-generation
compression system, says Dr Moir.
So all of these suits are pretty tight and
can be quite difficult to put on. I think my
head would pop off if I tried to put one on,
he jokes.
They are really quite tight, and swimmers like that because it helps them with
things like body positioning. Basically,
[Arena] placed these carbon threads in the
suit and these threads act to lockdown
its a little bit like wearing a seat belt, supporting the person when its required. It
offers compression without restriction.
This concept of intelligent compression
was the bedrock on which the new Powerskin Carbon series was built, and subsequent
releases retained it as a fundamental feature,
adapting the technology to the needs of every
swimmer with the Carbon-Flex in 2014, and
the fabric and carbon conguration in the
case of the Carbon-Air last year.
Following unparalleled success of the
carbon suits at the worlds biggest swimming competitions, Arenas R&D team,
along with Innovia and other scientic
contacts in its international network, decided it was time to pursue another quantum leap in swimsuit design.
To do so, they turned their attention
from external to internal considerations,
to the core of carbon technology, analysing
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
Daniel Ward, a senior

designer at Innovia
how the makeup of the inner components

of the suit could maximise the effectiveness of the swimmers actions in the water.
The result of these efforts is the
Powerskin Carbon-Ultra, which incorporates a new level of support and movement
management with an internal structure
the Ultra Link System designed to
optimise the athletes physiology.
The carbon cage system that was introduced in 2012 has also evolved, with three
times more carbon than before, to create a
more even compression system.
If you imagine the suit is in two pieces,
youve got the carbon outer, which is the
outer shell of the suit, and on the inside
there is the Ultra-Link system, which is
fullling a different function to what the
cage on the outside is doing, explains Daniel Ward, a senior designer, project manager and innovation consultant at Innovia.
This links together different muscle
groups as you swim and isolates the upper
body from the lower body, aiding in more
efficient swimming.
What youve got in practice is a series of
panels and seams that are arranged in a
way that connects muscle groups to allow
you to move freely, Dr Moir adds.
The high-performance functions are all
hidden beneath the surface, he continues.
And thats where the terminology the
power inside ties in. That also refers to the
psychology of the athlete, adds Ward.
The Powerskin Carbon-Ultra takes
swimwear technology to another level, but
it shouldnt be seen as the ultimate suit in
the range, insists Ward.
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
INNOVIA TECHNOLOGY
American athlete Cammile Adams is

heading to Rio this year.
Credit: Pentaphoto/arena
It actually works in combination with

the other suits it just offers something
different. So the Carbon Air is a very lightweight, which some swimmers prefer, Flex
is all about freedom of movement and
Ultra is all about muscle groups and
the Ultra-Link system.
So when we were working on the Powerskin swimsuit with Arena, we talked
about it as another tool in the swimmers
armoury and not the ultimate suit that
encapsulates the other technologies.
PREPARING FOR RIO

In four years, Arena has built a legacy with
its series of Powerskin Carbon suits.
During that time, the company has
worked closely with athletes to build garments they can feel condent in, from their
rst dive to the nal touch on the pool wall.
If an athlete puts on a suit and doesnt
feel condent then their performance can
be hindered. That is the biggest kind of win
for Arena for athletes to put on the suit
and say, I feel great in this and its going to
make me faster, explains Ward.
Ranomi Kromowidjojo will y the

ag for The Netherlands at the 2016
Olympic Games.
Ive worked with Arena on a couple of

projects now and the thing I was surprised
about is how much Arena is a family, he adds.
Its really great, from my perspective, to
see a client that Ive been working with
know all the swimmers by their rst
names, give them a hug and talk to them
about their performances. They just really
care about their athletes and they are a
lovely company to work for.
INNOVIA TECHNOLOGY
Innovias
Dr Robert
Moir
So which swimmers will be wearing the

Powerskin Carbon-Ultra for the Rio
2016 Olympics?
It just depends on preference, says
Moir. These swimmers have trained for a
very long time for the Rio Olympics and so
its important that they get the best technology, but that they are also really
familiar with the suit.
Ward agrees and adds: Even though
Arena sponsors the American swim team,
the swimmers dont have to wear it. They
can wear whatever suit they want what
they wear could be made by another big
Hungarian athlete Katinka Hosszu wears

the the Powerskin Carbon-Ultra suit.
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
About Innovia
Innovia Technology is a
breakthrough innovation
consultancy, which works
with clients to solve extremely
challenging problems. The team is
made up of specialists with a whole
host of different skills, from physics
and biochemistry to engineering
and manufacturing, and they
work together to come up with
business solutions. No stranger
to apparel, Innovia worked with
Wonderbra in 2009 to create its
best-selling Ultimate Strapless
bra. It started by systematically
reviewing how a strapless
bra performs and identifying
inherent limitations. By applying
engineering and design principles,
Innovia identied a range of
opportunities for integrating
improved support into the bra.

The company has also worked
with Shock Absorber to create new
sports bras tailored to different
activities like running, football
and tennis. Innovia interviewed
sportswomen, sports scientists and
physiotherapists to understand the
specic biomechanical, comfortrelated and psychological benets
required for each sport. For each
benet, Innovia systematically
explored technical enablers and
created specic product features
to deliver targeted, sport-specic
performance. But Innovias
knowledge doesnt end with
apparel; the team also works
with clients in the energy,
medical, automotive and even
aerospace sectors.
manufacturer and thats the case for any of
the teams.
But after a successful 2012 Olympics,
when swimmers wearing the Powerskin
Carbon-Pro suit won 35 medals,
including 10 gold medals, the Innovia and
Arena must be secretly hoping to beat
this record.
When asked how many Olympic medals
they hope swimmers will when wearing the
Carbon-Ultra suit, Ward quipped: All
of them!
Including the ones that arent in swimming!, joked Dr Moir.
I hope it will have pretty signicant
success, added Ward, more seriously.
Its difficult to predict though. I think
the Arena suits in general have good
success. In the European Swimming
Championships last month, the Arenasponsored athletes did fantastically.
Theres Adam Peaty, whos a really strong
British contender and Francesca Halsall,
whos also British, and they did fantastically well, he explains.
So I think it will be all eyes on them in
Rio. It will be a really exciting time. I dont
know if they will be wearing the Arena
suits yet, but it will be great to see them
wearing anything by Arena and winning
some medals.
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
SWIMWEAR TRENDS
TOP SWIMWEAR
TRENDS
We pick out the key swimwear trends to look out for in SS17
Decorative details
SWIMWEAR BRANDS PLAY WITH EMBROIDERY, BEADING AND MACRAM TECHNIQUES
Gottex
Maryan Mehlhorn
Melissa Odabash
Tropical prints
DESIGNERS REPLACE CLASSIC FLORALS WITH LARGE PALM PRINTS
Cleo by Panache
LingaDore
Resort by Fleur
SWIMWEAR TRENDS
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
Warm hues
SHADES OF BURNT ORANGE, BRONZE AND GOLD
Anita Comfort
David Swimwear
Lepel Swimwear
Geometrics
GEOMETRIC PRINTS ARE COMBINED WITH MONOCHROME AND VIBRANT HUES
Watercult
Moontide
David Swimwear
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
MODA PREVIEW
MODA PREVIEW:
SWIMWEAR
We pick out the highlights of the Birmingham trade show,
which takes place at the NEC this month
Lepel
About: Lepel will introduce a warm colour palette for SS17, complete with ontrend ethnic, tropical and oral prints. The star of the collection is the Lagoon onepiece, which has been updated for SS17 with a draw string to enable the wearer to
adjust the suit for a perfect t. Other highlights are the plunging Adventure Bay suit
featuring blue leopard print fabric and black mesh inserts, and the Summer Days
balconette bikini top and tie-side shorts.
RRP: 12 - 40
Stand number: LB11
Sales Contact: Peter Cronin, petercronin@lf-intimates.com
Profile
Blush
Promise
About: Spanish brand Promise will unveil a swimwear

collection that is in tune with a relaxed, beach-loving
lifestyle of the Mediterranean. The retro-future inspired
swimwear collection and its complementary beachwear
ranges are perfect for recreating the radiant Barcelona
surf and after-sun vibe. For the more lounge-loving types,
Promise recommends its stylish and subtly-shaped classic
swimsuits and bikinis with a twist.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LC40
Sales contact: Essi Korhonen, essi@promise.es
10
About: Blush is aimed at

young, condent women
with a fuller bust. For SS17,
the collection features a
mix and match group with a
patch print in turquoise and
orange; ethnic prints in soft
colours; an ikat print in pink
and blue; and a stripy print in
blue, pink and white. Other
highlights include sporty
styles in solid black combined
with mesh and bohemian
swimwear featuring textured
fabric and fringes.
RRP: 75 - 125
Stand number: LB03
Sales Contact:
Richard Barnes,
richard-alba@btconnect.com
MODA PREVIEW
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
Forever Unique
About: Pink Sands SS17 presents

an eclectic and vibrant approach to
holiday style. The collection escapes
the everyday stress of city life and
encapsulates the freedom of highsummer. Dive into rich hues of
dragon fruit pink, ocean blue and
parrot green, as vivid embroidery,
structural lines and handcrafted
crochet make up intricate swimsuits,
beautiful bikinis and sweeping
kaftans. Caged constructions create
innovative shape and structure, whilst
macram techniques add a
dramatic contrast.
RRP: 85 - 235
Stand number: LB22
Sales contact: Kimberley Yates,
kim@uniquecollectionsltd.com
Watercult
About: For SS17, Watercult

offers a versatile collection
inspired by global holiday
destinations, with South
American-style tassles and
trims, Moroccan prints,
tropical hues, nomadic
patterns and summer solids.
The brand has incorporated
crochet lace, which
continues to be a big trend,
elastic lace, geometric motifs
and intricate embroideries.
RRP: 79 - 139
Stand number: LB33
Sales contact:
slc@intimateslingerie.co.uk
Gottex
Oyster Bay
Beachwear
About: Oyster Bay Beachwear, the

British swimwear brand manufactured
by Bradford-based Maryslka, will
return to Moda with a range of
modern and classic swimsuits, tankinis
and bikinis. Tops and swimsuits are
available in cup sizes B - DD while
coordinates come in sizes 10 - 24.
RRP: 20 to 30
Stand number: LA03
Sales contact: John Hainsworth,
john.hainsworth@marsylka.co.uk
About: The latest Gottex collection

is divided into four sub-categories:
Collection, Contour, Essentials and GTX.
Collection combines classic styles with an
innovative twist, Contour is a shapewear
product that focuses on t and control,
Essentials is a conservative category for a
woman that wants the Gottex essence at
a lower price point and GTX is a dynamic
sub-category that caters to women that
want a fashion-forward, cup-sized bikini
or swimsuit. The brand is also marking
its 60th anniversary with glamorous
capsule collection, the Jewel Box. All
styles within the range feature unique
fabrics, extravagant accessories and
embroideries, which create a glamorous,
luxurious and sophisticated look.
RRP: 125 - 225
Stand number: LB03
Sales contact: Richard Barnes,
11
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
MODA PREVIEW
Charmline
Miradonna
About: Charmline is a shaping

swimwear brand offering designs
to make the wearer look one size
slimmer. Available in light, medium
and strong support, products range
from clean and sporty to feminine and
elegant. For SS17, the collection mixes
a range of bold prints with ruching,
borders and panels to slim and sculpt
the silhouette.
RRP: 79 - 109
Stand number: LB33
Sales contact:
slc@intimateslingerie.co.uk
About: Miradonna is a new swimwear brand

established by American shapewear label Miraclesuit
and Italian swimwear group AFS International. The
brand combines functional shaping features, including
lightweight fabric, Mirashape, with fashionable
Mediterranean designs. Matching beachwear is
also available.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LB17
Sales contact: Chris Eve, chris@patricia-eve.co.uk
Maryan Mehlhorn
About: The new Maryan Mehlhorn collection

is shaped by trends from diverse cultures. Inhouse created, exclusive prints, as well
beads and embroidery lend a touch of luxury
and sophistication to these tribal designs. For
SS17, the brand will introduce foam bra cups
with integrated carbon supports, eliminating
the need for an underwire.
RRP: 139 - 199
Stand number: LB33
Sales contact: slc@intimateslingerie.co.uk
Fantasie
About: The SS17 Fantasie swimwear

collection allows the consumer
escape to luscious paradise, with
serene fabrics, combined with
impeccable t. New for this season
is Agra, with a contemporary oral
print in a vibrant colour story.
Stylish scarf ties and ruching details
atter a variety of body shapes to
make this a must-have collection
for the new season.
RRP: 26 - 78
Stand number: LB23
Sales contact: Evelyne Piegay,
Evelyne.Piegay@wacoal-europe.com
12
MODA PREVIEW
Miraclesuit
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
Cleo Swim
About: Paradise Found is the name of the 2017

Miraclesuit collection. Deep saturated colours
inspired by the sea and sky are enhanced by
tropical orals and animal prints reminiscent of a
safari. For 2017, the brand will introduce sleek,
modern looks with ne detailing and sexy styling,
as well as classics that embrace the Miraclesuit
heritage. Elegant and unique prints showcase ora
and fauna, while bold stripes and colour blocks
nod to the athleisure lifestyle.
RRP: 100 - 130
Stand number: LB17
About: An adventure through the

Caribbean inspires the vibrant SS17 Cleo
Swim collection. Exotic tropical prints
sit boldly amongst energetic, geometric
designs in a luscious palette of lime,
mango, aqua and indigo. The selection
of bikini and tankini sets have a modern
and sporty vibe, perfect for the fun-loving
explorer. Standout pieces include the Isla
range, which offers a versatile mix and
match range up to a G cup.
RRP: 42 - 18
Stand number: LB40
Sales contact: Marlene Castanheira,
m.castanheira@panache-lingerie.com
Panache Swim
About: Panache Swim will showcase an

exciting collection inspired by the vibrancy of
Cuban culture. Prints range from dramatic
orals and bold tribal designs to rened
geometrics and stripes, creating a diverse
and colourful collection of swimsuits, tankinis
and bikini sets up to a K cup. Highlights
include the oral Florentine (pictured),
featuring a newly-developed bandeau mould
to offer a smooth and supportive t up to
a G cup. The Nina bikini is also tipped for
success, featuring a modern geometric print
in shades of turquoise, teal and purple.
RRP: 56 - 17
Stand number: LB40
Moontide
About: Moontides SS17 collection is

divided into four categories: Raw Coast,
Stark Shadow, Tribal Shibori and Tropical
Floral. Raw Coast is inspired by the beauty
of an unexplored coast, weaving together
differing shades of the sea with various
textures. Stark Shadow combines simple
shapes with clean-cut styling, geo prints and
textured stripes. Tribal Shibori is Japaninspired, with tie dye effects and tribal
prints. Finally, Tropical Floral features exotic
ora placed and printed on woven textures.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LC38
Sales contact: Andrew Seaman,
01209 314883
13
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
MODA PREVIEW
GTX
About: GTX is a dynamic sub-category by

Gottex that caters to women that want a
fashion-forward, cup-sized swimsuit, with
fresh, colourful and vivid prints. A key
hero piece from this seasons collection
is a plunging halter-neck swimsuit with a
bold paisley print and sexy cut-outs.
RRP: 125 - 225
Stand number: LB03
Sales Contact: Richard Barnes,
Piha
Lidea
About: Pihas SS17 swimwear

collection is divided into three
categories: Exotic Traveller, Fitness
Diva and Classic but Essential. Inspired
by far-off destinations, Exotic traveller
features bold colours mashed up with
a melting pot of prints inspired by
many cultural inuences. Fitness Diva
has a strong sporty look with clean-cut
lines moulded from soft neoprene with
geometric prints. Finally, Classic but
Essential is simple, yet sophisticated,
with bold pops of colour and various
textures bringing traditional shapes
to life.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LC38
Sales Contact: Andrew Seaman,
01209 314883
About: Lidea, part of the Maryan Beachwear group,

offers a range of bikinis and swimsuits in cup sizes C to
G. For SS17, there is a special focus on innovative and
fashionable bottoms, such as the multi-way bikini pants
that can be worn as a bikini bottom or a mini-skirt.
Lidea has also used a light, moisture-wicking fabric in
its designs for the rst time this year. As always, Lidea
shines with its bold prints and colourways.
RRP: 79 - 109
Stand number: LB33
Sales contact: slc@intimateslingerie.co.uk
Anita Care
Vacanze Italiane
About: High-fashion Italian brand Vacanze Italiane

has excelled in 2017 with lush prints and rich colours
making up the core of the new collection. Think
gorgeous holidays in hot countries and daytime-toevening wear in an ethnic boho style.
RRP: 27 - 180
Stand number: LB17
Sales Contact: Chris Eve, chris@patricia-eve.co.uk
14
About: The new Anita care swimwear

collection combines a bright bouquet of
designs and styles with all the functions
and t required to integrate a breast form.
This special functionality, however, is not
outwardly apparent, with clever cuts and
design elements creating charming beach
styles. Size range from 32-50, A-F.
RRP: 6 - 50
Stand number: LC02
Sales Contact: Jemma Barnes,
07889 473 356
MODA PREVIEW
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
Iconique
About: Beachwear giant

Iconique has produced a
beautiful collection for 2017,
adorned with crochet and
macram lace. Kaftans,
robes and dresses are
available for the fashion
conscious woman who also
wants to ensure comfort
when out of the water.
RRP: 37 - 130
Stand number: LB17
Sales Contact: Chris Eve,
chris@patricia-eve.co.uk
Chantelle
Beachwear
About: Chantelle was inspired by deep

oceans, clear lagoons and turquoise
swimming pools to create its SS17
beachwear collection. Standout pieces
from the range include Atlantique, a
blue one-piece featuring nautical rope
detail, and Bali, featuring a blue shell print
inspired by the seabed and red piping. The
Bali range offers an underwired bikini top
and matching tie-side briefs.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LB42
Sales Contact: athrower@chantelle.fr
Rosa Faia
About: Rosa Faia will present a range of trendy,

sophisticated and sporty swimwear in cup sizes
A to I. The collection includes bikinis, swimsuits
and tankinis complemented by a large selection
of matching accessories, such as dresses, tunics,
pareos and beach bags. Bandeau styles and largecup bikini tops feature prominently in 2017.
RRP: 20 - 45
Stand number: LC02
Sales Contact: Jemma Barnes, 07889 473 356
Freya
About: New for SS17 is Tropicool, offering

a contemporary geometric print range in
zingy neon hues on a crisp white base. The
padded bandeau bikini top (B-G) features
lightly-padded foam cups and a low centrefront. You could also choose the non-padded
plunge (C-FF) featuring a low plunging
neckline and underwired cups for shape and
support. Pair with matching coordinates like
the bikini brief, available in sizes XS-XXL.
The range also offers a one-piece suit
featuring a contemporary high-neck style
with lightly padded foam cups in sizes C-FF.
RRP: 22-76
Stand number: LB23
Sales Contact: Evelyne Piegay,
Elomi
About: Elomi celebrates the bygone era of the

1950s for SS17 with a Cuba-inspired swimsuit.
The new range features a punchy tropical print
on a muted black base, with coral red piping to
create an hour-glass silhouette. The front panel
is cut from light-weight printed fabric, while
the sides are made of heavy-weight fabric,
providing rm support. The suit is designed to
be worm over one of Elomis swim bras for the
best shape, uplift and customised t, available
in sizes 16-26.
RRP: 34 - 74
Stand number: LB23
15
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
GOTTEX
Gottex:
THE SURVIVAL
STORY
Premium swimwear brand Gottex
is celebrating its 60th anniversary
this year with a collection that
pays tribute to its creative founder,
who, against all odds, survived
the Second World War and
established an innovative and
fashionable swimwear brand
inspired by a simple bouquet of
owers that saved her life
16
GOTTEX
he story of how Gottex was

founded could be one of the
most fascinating in the history
of swimwear, and indeed
fashion apparel.
It all started in the mid-1940s, during
Germanys occupation of Hungary when
a Jewish woman named Lea Gottlieb was
forced to hide from the Nazis, moving from
one hiding place to another with her husband
Armin and daughters Miriam and Judith.
At checkpoints, she hid her head
in a bouquet of owers to avoid being
recognised as Jew.
Happily, Gottlieb and her family survived
the war, and after the liberation, she and
her husband set up a raincoat factory in
Czechoslovakia, before immigrating to
Haifa, Israel in 1949.
With money borrowed from family
and friends, the Gottlieb family opened a
similar raincoat factory near Tel Aviv in
1949, but it wasnt long until they realised
that there was little demand for raincoats
in the Middle East.
They found that Israel had more summer

than winter, so they made a change and
set up a swimwear business, says Karen
Gasner, the current head of design at Gottex.
Gottlieb sold her wedding ring for
capital, bought fabric, borrowed a sewing
machine and began to design swimsuits that
were unique to Israel, inspired by
local Middle-Eastern colours, including the
greens of the Galilee countryside, the
blues of Lake Tiberias and the pink of
Jerusalem stone.
In 1956, Gottex, a high-fashion
beachwear and swimwear company, was
born, and by 1984, the brand was the leading
exporter of fashion swimwear to the United
States, and made up two-thirds of the Israeli
swimwear market.
Among those who wore the labels suits
were Princess Diana, Claudia Schiffer and
Naomi Campbell.
She was a real creator, says Gasner,
speaking at Mode City, Lyon on July 10.
She was the rst designer to make
luxurious swimwear for the beach and she
was the rst swimwear designer to use
innovative materials and introduce draping
and special printing.
Gottliebs collections often had
dramatic and varied patterns that were
inspired by and dominated by oral motifs;
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
a tribute to the owers she said saved her

life during the Second World War.
In 1997, Gottex was acquired by Lev
Leviev, the owner of The Africa-Israel
Group, an international holding company.
After about a year of heading the design
team, Gottlieb left the business and set up a
new design company under her own name
at the age of 85.
Gottlieb sadly passed away at her home in
Tel Aviv on November 12, 2012 at the age of
94, but her legacy still lives on at Gottex.
We always make sure to preserve the
Gottex DNA from the time of Lea Gottlieb,
the founder of the brand, explains Gasner,
who joined the company 11 years ago.
For example, the ower motif, the
animal skin prints, the quality of the
fabrics, the styles, the embroideries,
the sparkles, the special and rich
techniques, and everything that represents
luxury and glamour all of these were
elements that Gottlieb used in her
designs, she continues.
We give a modern twist to all of these
elements, though we still manage to
preserve the past.
Sitting at the busy Gottex stand at Mode
City, its clear to see that Gottex is still a
leading swimwear and beachwear designer,
with business growing year-on-year, but
17
SWIMWEAR INSIGHT
GOTTEX
Gottex in the UK
this wasnt the case, admits chief executive

Ron Grundland.
During the period when it was sold, the
business went down a little bit because it
was going through a transition period, he
tells Lingerie Insight in between meetings
with buyers.
But since then, weve changed and
now Gottex is back to where it was, and
perhaps its even better because its not only
concentrating on making fashion swimwear.
Indeed, in the last 20 years, Gottex has
gradually introduced new brands, including
Prole by Gottex, a stylish swimwear label for
independent women aged between 20 and
60; Prole Blush, which makes young and
fun swimwear in DD+ cup sizes; and most
recently, Prole Sport, an athleisure-inspired
swimwear brand that launched this season.
The business has also added value to its
main Gottex collection, with the addition
of shapewear swimwear also known as
Karen Gasner, the
current head of
design at Gottex
18
Contour and Essentials, a pared down

swimwear collection for women who
demand the quality of Gottex swimwear at a
lower price point.
We upgraded the Gottex collection to
make it more contemporary and modern,
but at the same time we didnt forget
the DNA of Gottex and its existing, loyal
customers, by giving them the ability to
continue buying the iconic product of
Gottex, says Grundland.
For SS17, the Gottex collection is divided
into ve inspiration stories.
We have Vibrant Geo, which looks at
geometric prints, mostly in summery, bright
colours, but we also have a black and white
story with striped patters, says Gasner.
This story includes two vibrant bead
prints, unique strips of textured fabric in
black and ivory with touches of gold lurex
and braid motifs, and black and white
zigzags, designed to atter the curves of the
female form.
The second inspiration story is Orient
Express, continues Gasner. Again, this is a
very colourful story that focuses on oriental
motifs. It features orals, paisley designs
and beading.
The third story is Luxe Garden, which
reects the DNA of the brand and Gottliebs
famous oral motifs.
This collection features the placement
of large, hand-painted owers in shades
of blue, on a royal blue background; a
unique 3D print that resembles traditional
ock printing on a dark grey background
with red, orange and blue owers; a vivid
photoprint of owers on a mash-up panel
pattern featuring graphic motifs; and
Andrew Barnes, sales manager at

Alba Associates, the distributor
of Gottex in the UK, explains how
business is fairing in Britain
Gottex seems to be steadily
growing, which is good, and its
always nice to see new things
being added to the collection
where possible. For the
60th anniversary, were hoping to
have another good year. Karen
has done a great job with
the collections.
Weve had meetings in the UK
and Lyon with some key accounts
and weve had a great reaction so
far. After the London Swimwear
Show and Moda well have a much
better idea.
The key accounts are Harrods,
Rigby & Peller and Figleaves. We
also have stock in independents.
a luxurious print in shades of blue and

turquoise with gold leaves and decorative
gold chains, through which the fabric is
threaded through.
The fourth story is Savage Beauty,
featuring animal prints. This also reects
our history. This year we have the buttery
and the ostrich feathers, says Gasner.
Finally, Gottex has created a spectacular
capsule collection to celebrate its
60th anniversary.
Named Jewel Box, the new range oozes
glamour, using rich materials, including
Swarovski crystal and silver lurex fabrics
and unique design details, such as a special
macram made of black bindings and crystal
beads, and laser-cut embroideries.
It also features gold and pearl accessories
and photoprints in metallic shades.
I loved designing this range because
I could do whatever I wanted with it,
enthuses Gasner.
This is what Mrs Gottlieb used to do
she used to innovate so for me this was
the most fun, to develop the new ideas and
the fabrics. Its been very well received so
far weve actually been overwhelmed by
the response. At rst we thought it would
be very niche but now we see that everyone
wants it.
SS17 BEACHWEAR
COLLECTION
PINK SANDS
M O DA N E C B I R M I N G H A M 7 T H - 9 T H AU G
BO OT H L B 2 2
Fo r f u r t h e r i n f o r m a t i o n p l e a s e c o n t a c t k i m @ f o reve r u n i q u e l t d . c o m o r v i s i t w w w. f o reve r u n i q u e l t d . c o m
BRAND NEW WOMENS LOUNGEWEAR COLLECTION FOR 2016
SHOP THE COLLECTION NOW
W W W. J O C K E Y. C O . U K
NORTH WEST BOUTIQUES
REGIONAL FOCUS
NORTHERN
LIGHTS
We meet four independent lingerie retailers based in the North West of

England to nd out how business is fairing and how the high streets in their
local areas have changed over the years
What is it like running a boutique

in Cheshire now, versus when you
took over the store?
Left to right:
Karen Flannery and
Kate Hinton
Now that we have been trading for a year,

we are getting more of an idea of what our
customers want and when they want it.
Were trying to make the most of our new
EPOS system so that were getting enough
of what we need. Cheshire ladies want a
great service and a great choice of
quality items.
How have buying habits changed

in that time?
More and more people seem to ask for the
matching knickers when buying lingerie,
or matching kaftans when buying
swimwear. Maybe its the way weve
merchandised our stock.
How do you stay ahead of the

competition?
To be tted by experts and have that
wonderful one-on-one buying experience
that you cant get in department stores is a
great selling point. We love that we get the
time to get to know our customers and
that they feel safe, secure and have
condence in our business.
Foundations Lingerie
Owners, Kate Hinton and Karen Flannery
Location: Nantwich, Cheshire
When and why did you decide

to open a lingerie boutique?
It was fate. We were looking for new
careers after leaving the teaching
profession last year and longed to be
self-employed, to be exible around our
young families. We came across this
business for sale and it all just seemed to

t into place.
Hows business fairing?

We are denitely busier in the warmer
months and are currently doing a great
trade in swimwear.
Where do you see the future of

the high street heading in your
local area?
In an ideal world, the town would be full
of independent retailers. With the
changes that are upon us, lets just
hope that were given a ghting and
fair chance.
19
REGIONAL FOCUS

local area?
Left to right: Penny

English and Johanna
Bolhoven
Johanna: The Portas Report came up

with the recommendation that if
traditional high streets were to survive
in this multi-channel retail age, then
they need not just shops and food
outlets, but community hubs. Hale is
fortunate to have a passionate and active
group called The Hale Community
Trust, which is working closely with the
local authority to ensure the build of a
new 6,000ft2 community hub on the site
of the current bowling green.
See-Saw Lingerie
Current owner, Penny English. Incoming owner, Johanna Bolhoven
Location: Hale, Greater Manchester

Penny: I moved to Hale village with my
parents when I was 18 years-old and
they opened the shop with my sister in
1991. It had previously been a traditional
corsetiere shop for nearly 50 years, but
after a major refurbishment we began
selling bespoke bridal wear and new
brands of lingerie. A few years later, we
decided to introduce swimwear and
nightwear to replace the bridal wear.
Fourteen years ago, I decided to move
back to the village to be near my parents
and took over the family business. SeeSaw Lingerie is now about to celebrate
25 years in business. I have loved the
lingerie business, but have decided it is
time for a change. I am delighted to be
handing over the reins to a member of
staff and good friend, which will allow
me to embark on my next adventure
when I move to Dorset early next year.
Johanna: I have been fortunate to work
for See-Saw and with Penny for the last
few years and I have got to know the
business very well. I have worked in
various areas of the fashion industry for
over 20 years and this has included
fashion PR and marketing for large
20
department stores and small

independent boutiques. Im also a
personal stylist and regularly talk to my
clients about the importance of welltting lingerie.
Pandoras Box
Company director, Jackie Wood
Location: Ormskirk, Lancashire
Hows business fairing at

the moment?

Penny: The high street has changed a

lot over the past eight years and the
recession, as well as increasing
popularity and competition from the
internet, de nitely took its toll on
business. Despite all the doom and
gloom, See-Saw has continued to be a
destination shop for a wonderfully
loyal customer base and we are now
seeing an increase in new customers
who want the personal service we are
known for.
Pandoras Box opened 22 years ago. The

current store in Ormskirk opened after
we successfully sold lingerie on the
market stalls in Liverpool. We found that
women wanted to be tted in their bras on
the market stall (which was impractical),
so an indoor premise was a must.

competition?
Johanna: Small businesses need to
adapt to survive. We will stay ahead of
the competition by maintaining detailed
market knowledge, implementing a
marketing strategy, developing
customer relationships and providing a
highly personalised and connected
customer experience.
Hows business fairing

at the moment?
Business is good. We decided to
downsize three years ago, after we
expanded our premises in 2010. After
working very hard through the credit
crunch on marketing, social media, instore events, stock management and
cutting other costs, weve got through
the other side stronger.
How have you seen the high

street change in that time?
Its tougher. You are constantly
competing. We are aware of this, and do
not rest on our laurels, which makes

us stronger.
What is it like running a

boutique in Ormskirk now,
versus when you launched?
The high street is declining and has been
for over ve years now. My marketing
manager and ex business partner, Katie
Givens, set up a company called Love
Ormskirk in a bid to market the town we
REGIONAL FOCUS
were trading from, to help our business

and others around us. This helped raise
awareness and footfall. We still have a lot
of the customers we had when we rst set
out in business, and their daughters, and
even their granddaughters!
works. We work with Pour Moi?, which

offers a concession in our store, which
means we can hold more stock.

competition?
As long as retailers like us stay strong,

focussed and ahead of the game, a high
street can survive with a good mix of
shops and services.
We decided to stock swimwear all yearround three years ago, and it really

local area?
several from a range. This is more unusual

now. I have traded through recessions
before, but there has been nothing like the
2008 experience and it has denitely
made people more cautious about
spending. Customers are also much more
savvy than they used to be and it is so
easy to make price and product
comparisons online.
What are the benets and

challenges of running a lingerie
boutique in your area?
Chantilly
Managing director, Marjorie

Thompson
When and why did you decide to

open a lingerie boutique?
I opened a lingerie store in 1984 after an
independent lingerie boutique and
department store had recently closed in
town, creating an opportunity. I had
previously worked for the independent store
so I had knowledge of bra tting and corsets,
which were big business at that time.
How is business fairing at

the moment?
Despite all the political and economic
uncertainties, weve have had a very good
season this year and trade has been well
above expectations.
What is it like running a boutique

in Rochdale now, versus when
you launched?
The trade has changed in so many ways
that I would need several pages to explain
how and why. The products on offer now
Despite Rochdale being quite a deprived

area, the town has had 250 million of
inward investment over the last few years.
I love my town and the people are lovely,
warm hearted and have a good sense of
humour, which we all need.
Location: Rochdale, Greater

Manchester

competition?
are much more sophisticated and have

improved so much in terms of design and
materials being used. When I rst started,
we sold lots of nightwear and corsetry and
sales of these have diminished over the
years and been replaced by swimwear and
lots more lingerie. The size options for
bras have more than doubled since 1985.
Back then, you were lucky to nd
something in a G cup and we often had to
alter bras for customers to make them t
correctly if they were very large in the cup.
The biggest change to running the store is
the addition of our online business, which
has basically doubled the workload but
enabled us to invest in a fully integrated
stock control system that has made the
business operate much more efficiently.
How have buying habits changed

in that time?
Before the nancial crises in 2008, people
would often stock up on bras and buy
I think quality is more important than

price and our focus has always been to
provide an outstanding level of customer
service. I think that good staff are worth
their weight in gold and I have been so
fortunate to have brilliant staff who have
stayed with me over the years. I listen to
my customers and always try to give them
the best product for their needs, with
comfort being the number one priority.

local area?
High streets are in danger across the UK
and since the Brexit vote all bets are off as
to what will happen in the future as no
one, including experts and government,
knows truly what the fallout from this will
be. It is very daunting to think we are
possibly heading for another recession
when we really havent pulled away from
the previous one.
21
SPECIAL REPORT
WOMEN IN RETAIL
Female
POWER
The UK government made history last month with the election of

Britains second female prime minister. But, in 2016, the retail industry
still has a long way to go in narrowing the gender gap, with only 10% of
executive boards in the sector being made up of women. We spoke to
six top female leaders working in lingerie and fashion retail to discover
the reasons behind gender inequality in the industry and hear what
paths theyve taken on their routes to success
new report has explained

why the majority of women
in retail are not climbing
the ladder into senior
leadership roles.
Women in Retail, an inspirational and
inclusive community for accomplished and
emerging leaders, and management
consultancy Elixirr conducted the
study into gender diversity across 44
different retailers.
Seventy retail bosses from companies
such as John Lewis, Tesco and ASOS
22
were asked why women only make up

10% and 20% of retailers executive
boards and teams respectively, despite
60% of total retail employees being
women and 85% of purchase
decisions being made or inuenced
by women.
The study uncovered three common
reasons or excuses as to why gender
balance in retail boardrooms has not yet
been achieved. They are: a lack of female
role models, a lack of condence and a lack
of exible working hours.
Setting gender balance targets, making a

deliberate decision to always consider
female candidates for recruitment and
appointing an executive owner who is
responsible for driving the gender diversity
agenda at all levels were suggested as ways
to kick-start effective change.
But what do female executives in the
lingerie and fashion world make of these
ndings? And what experiences have they
had in working their way from the shop
oor to the top oor? We spoke to six
women in retail to nd out.
WOMEN IN RETAIL
SPECIAL REPORT
Jacqueline Gold, CBE

CEO, Ann Summers
Have you ever received any

negative comments from male
co-workers?
At the very beginning of my career I was
on the receiving end of a fairly shocking
statement from one of the male board
members. I was just 21 years-old and had
developed the idea for Ann Summers
parties. I was convinced my idea would
do great things for the business and so
pitched the idea to the all-male board,
who at the time werent particularly
interested in attracting a female
customer. As I pitched my idea, one of
the board tuned to me and said, This will
never work, women arent even interested
in sex. At the time, I remember thinking
that clearly said more about his sex life
than my idea, but I bit my tongue and told
him why I disagreed and felt there would
be a real want from female customers for
the parties. I look back on that comment
now and smile, but at the time it said so
much about his opinion of women. I will
always be proud of myself when I look
back on that moment and was able to

nd the courage to keep going and not be
wrong footed or swayed by his comment,
something I encourage every woman to
do when they have belief and passion in
an idea.
Have you ever been discouraged

to pursue a senior role in retail?
No I havent; I have been lucky that within
Ann Summers we have always encouraged
progression and celebrate all of our talent,
male and female.
Why do you think women

only make up 10% of retail
executive boards?
I wish I knew the answer to this! I think
its ridiculous that in an industry such
as retail we have so few female leaders. I
cant understand why some retailers fail to
recognise and appreciate the female talent
thats in front of them and nurture this, as I
genuinely believe more female leaders will
equal better results for the sector.
What can be done to change this?

We, as an industry, need to commit to
making a real change in this area. Its about
us coming together, acknowledging the
issue and looking at the ways in which we
can make a change together. We need more
female role models, better exible working
hours and a change in culture. Its
also important that women nd the
condence to put themselves forward for
senior roles.
What advice would you give

to women wanting to pursue a
senior leadership role in retail?
Make sure you are vocal about your desire
to pursue a new role and ask your seniors
what they want to see from you to achieve
that role. Keep reminding them of your
skills and why you would be good for the
role and dont let them forget how much
you want it and why they should consider
you. Be proud of what you have achieved
and have the self-belief that you absolutely
will achieve that senior role.
23
SPECIAL REPORT
WOMEN IN RETAIL
Dawn Barber
Founder and managing director, UK Tights
Fiona Holmes
Managing director, Figleaves
Why did you choose a career

in retail?
I know it sounds cheesy, but I really am
a people person. Ive worked in B2B for
many years, but its always been about
the people for me.
Have you ever experienced

animosity from your co-workers
during your retail career?
Not really, as Ive always been the boss,
but I have experienced this in the past
when working as a member of a large team
in the IT industry. This industry is very
male-orientated so its quite normal to
experience that behaviour.

co-workers?
When I was much younger yes; I was called
bossy and pushy. If I had been a man, they
would have called me ambitious. It just
made me more determined to push on.

When I was in sales I was discouraged by
men to go for a senior role, as they felt
slightly threatened by me. Im not sure if
this was because I was a woman or because
I was a good sales person.
24
Why do you think women only

make up 10% of retail executive
boards?
I think a number of women are hesitant
when it comes to pushing for that better
position within the company due todays
culture. I believe that women who want
to go higher also have the issues of
juggling home, family, work etc. Men
rarely have these issues. Having run my
own company with four children in tow,
I know how hard this can be.
What can be done to

change this?
I believe women everywhere should follow
their instincts. If they feel they can do a job
then they should go for it. I used to always
believe in the old adage that to be a women
in a senior position you have to look like
a woman, think like a man and work like
a dog.

I would tell them to just go for it. There is
nothing in any role that a man does that
a woman cant do just as well. If youre
committed and truly want to move up
then just keep going. Dont take no for
an answer.

in retail?
I did a Business Studies degree at
Edinburgh University as I wanted to be
rich...so I went on a milk round and chose
to work at M&S as I have always loved
shopping. What girl doesnt?

No; M&S were super supportive in
my early career and throughout three
maternity leaves. Since then, I have had
great bosses who positively encouraged
me to expand my horizons, especially
Roger Holmes at M&S and Alan White at
N Brown.

co-workers? Please explain.
No. Menswear at M&S was a different
culture to womenswear, partly because
of the number of men there. When I
joined M&S there was a glass ceiling that
very few women broke through, but that
was 25 years ago. I have loads of female
contemporaries who run retail businesses
Beth Butterwick, Liz Steele, Meg
Lustman, to name a few.
WOMEN IN RETAIL
SPECIAL REPORT

I have chosen to balance my family
responsibilities and my desire to peruse
not-profit roles with managing my fulltime career, and I guess that may have
influenced the choices I have made, but
I have always felt that my destiny was in
my control and that I could peruse the
path that was right for me.

make up 10% of retail
executive boards?
I think that there is a slip road that
women in many industries take when
they become parents. I think most
families need to be more demanding of
their employers to find solutions that
enable top talent to keep progressing. I
also think that if we analysed race and
disability then similar patterns would
emerge. An enormous generalisation is
that men like belonging to clubs with
other men and we facilitate that by not
pushing on when the going gets tough.
Ask not what your country can do for you
but what you can do for your country.
Isabel Baert
UK management team member, Rigby & Peller
What can be done to

change this?

in Retail?
I used to be super anti-quotas, but now

I am a firm believer in them. I think
we (todays leaders) also need to adopt
flexible working environments to enable
employees to look after themselves
and their families, combined with
holding down a role that enables them
to progress to the extent of their talent
and capability. At the moment I think
the race for the top is all about who
shouts loudest and works hardest, not
necessarily the smartest. We also need to
start talking about working fathers, not
just working mothers.
I believe retail is one of the most exciting

business sectors to be a part of. Ive always
felt retail is a performance-driven sector
which provides clear opportunities to rise
up the career ladder. To date, Ive not
been disappointed.
What advice would you give to

women wanting to pursue
a senior leadership role
in retail?
The same advice as I would give to men
go for it. Make good choices on the way
and always know where your current
role is taking you. Surround yourself
with the best team you can find. The best
road is not always the straight road. It is
a long race, so be brave and find yourself
mentors you can trust.

co-workers?
Like everyone, Ive been on the receiving
end of both good and bad management,
regardless of sex. However, I can honestly
say I havent encountered any negativity
from male co-workers that hasnt been
constructive. I have some excellent male
role models and mentors and I have
found them to be nothing but supportive.
Id actually go as far as to say that Ive
received more negative comments from
female colleagues in the past.
Why do you think women

only make up 10% of the retail
executive boards?
To my mind, its the age-old problem of
balancing work with family commitments.
Retail involves long and unsociable hours,

seven days a week. Travel often plays a part
in more senior roles, and the overall setup, where a lot of your work has to be
done outside of trading hours, is not
particularly exible.

We need to focus on stronger succession
planning. Women in middle
weight positions need to feel supported
and need role models and mentors to help
them build the condence in going for
more senior positions. Personally, I dont
agree with quotas. While this may
help with fast-tracking change, I think it
could in fact undermine the work which
women are capable of and could serve to
further dampen condence. People
work for people, and I strongly believe
only the best person for the job should
be hired.

Work hard, stay calm, dont take things
personally, be humble and, above all else,
be respectful.
25
SPECIAL REPORT
WOMEN IN RETAIL
was dominated by men. They were all

incredibly welcoming and happy to share
their knowledge.

boards?
I think its very sad. Women have
no problem making it to a head of
department role, but that next step has
always proved a problem. One of the
things that attracted me to N Brown was
the fact that women make up half of
the board.
Womenswear buying director,

N Brown Group

in retail?
I started my career in advertising, and

have always loved shopping. When I had
the opportunity to move client-side into
retail, I jumped at it.

Well, they say that people often recruit

in their own likeness, so I guess it needs
to start with some enlightened men.
Employers need to encourage both
men and women to keep climbing the
ladder, and to not to treat
anyone differently.
From time to time, Ive come across a

few people who have been challenging
to work with, but the biggest lesson Ive
learnt from those experiences is not to
take it personally, and to listen, reect,
learn, become stronger and even more
resilient. I just wish Id understood
that a little earlier on. Today, great
organisations recognise the importance
and benets of creating a distinctive
corporate culture with a clear set of
values. This helps build, develop and
foster a more positive, collaborative
team environment.


co-workers?
Be true to yourself and push for what you

want. Also, never stop learning. Admitting
you dont have all the answers is not
a weakness.
My mother and father worked in the

motor trade and I grew up on a garage
forecourt. I also worked in advertising
during the 80s, so Ive had my fair share
[of negative comments], but what doesnt
break you, makes you.
What can be done to

change this?
Julie Donnelly

in retail?
It runs in the family. My mother was a HR

manager for a large retailer and my father
and stepmother owned several fashion
boutiques in the North West. I think I was
one of the rst teenagers in Liverpool to
own a maxi coat.

I can honestly say no, but I have always

been open, honest and straight-talking,
which I think my colleagues have
always appreciated. Well, I hope they
have anyway!
Never. Retail has enabled me to enjoy

a fabulous career, and whether you
are a man or a woman, its always been
possible to go from the shop oor to
the top oor. Ive been privileged and
lucky to work and network with some
fantastic leaders, business partners and
coaches throughout my retail career
outstanding men and women whove
been totally inspirational, motivational
and supportive.

co-workers?

boards?
Ive spent most of my career in clothing

and have mainly worked with female
buyers. However, at the start of my
career (and we are talking a number of
years ago) I spent many years buying
lingerie and, to my surprise, that world
Historically, the boardroom has been

a rather male-dominated territory.
However, appointments should be made
on merit, performance and capability
(experience, expertise and leadership).
I do believe this is changing, albeit rather

26
Alison Lancaster
Chief customer officer (interim),
House of Fraser
WOMEN IN RETAIL
SPECIAL REPORT
What the BRC says
Helen Dickinson, OBE

Director general, British Retail Consortium

boards?
The reasons that we are still lacking
female representation at the top
level of our industry are complex
and cross-cut many interrelated
issues. There is, unfortunately,
no silver bullet and making real
progress is likely to require a
slowly, and I do hear about more women

being considered for key roles on executive
boards. Its still rather disappointing that
last year only 15% of the top retail CEOs
were female, a decline from 25% in 2014.
What can be done to

change this?
Unfortunately, due to the slow pace
of change, I do think there has to be a
gender balance agenda with specic
targets and measures to keep at the
combination of interventions jointly

involving educators, businesses and
government. This means that in the
future we will need to continue to
work closely with the Government
across multiple fronts to ensure
this happens.
Recent government initiatives have
top of our minds when building better

boards for the future. It helps when
organisations have a senior champion
to mentor and encourage female
candidates to go for key leadership
roles. Needless to say, it also helps when
organisations lead by example, and
actively appoints female talent to the top
table. Chairmen and CEOs such as Sir
Charlie Mayeld, Beth Butterwick
and Angela Spindler are truly
inspirational leaders.
helped to move things in the right

direction. The Davis Review has
been effective in setting targets
for the number of women in
boardrooms as well as in pushing
the issue up the agenda.
These signs are encouraging but
progress is slow and still too few
women are climbing the ladder to
the top of their companies. We know
from the ndings of the review that
45% of FTSE 100 companies did
not meet the minimum target of
twenty-ve per cent of women in
boardrooms by 2015.
Simply put, more needs to
be done to ensure that the next
generation of female business
leaders step forward and are able
to move further up the career
ladder. Alongside this, there needs
to be clear measures in place so
that we can keep track of which
interventions have been successful
and where they havent, what
more can be done.
Our industry has a signicant
role to play in all this. We already
have a strong track record of
promoting good people quickly,
regardless of their background and
we are working hard to improve the
opportunities open to women at all
levels. But we need to make sure
by sponsoring and supporting
women throughout their careers
and by working with government
that the barriers that still exist at all
levels are being tackled.

Live it. Love it. Lead it. Go for it. Be
authentic and true to your core beliefs.
Be honest, but kind. Be brave, bold and
passionately curious. Dare to be different,
and be prepared to stand out from the
crowd. At the end of the day, its all about
building relationships, strong networks
and following through at pace. And the
rewards and fun can be immense!
27
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
MODA PREVIEW
MODA: LINGERIE AND
NIGHTWEAR
We pick out the highlights of the Birmingham trade show,
which takes place at the NEC this month
Panache
Chantelle
About: For SS17, French brand Chantelle has

launched a full package of everyday bras ideal
for the summer months. The Aria T-shirt
bra, for example, is designed to be invisible
underneath a summer blouse or a brides
dress. The brand has also revamped its popular
Merci and Parisian bras in deep ocean and
lagoon blue. Parisian life continues to inspire
Chantelle with its lively neighbourhoods and
enchanting buildings, seen in new lines Molitor
and Champs-Elyses.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LB42
Sales Contact: athrower@chantelle.fr
Charnos
Lepel
About: This season, Charnos places

bridalwear in the spotlight. The brand
has updated its Bailey collection with
six fashionable pieces; a padded
plunge bra, a strapless bra, a brief,
thong, garter and suspender belt. The
best-selling full-cup Sienna bra also
makes a return in ivory and gold.
RRP: 10 - 38
Stand number: LB11
Sales contact: Peter Cronin,
petercronin@lf-intimates.com
About: Spring/Summer is always an

exciting time for Lepel Lingerie and SS17
is no exception with the array of rich
colourways and bold prints. Navy is
featured heavily this season, in sets such
as Lilly (pictured), with its bird print, and
the best-selling Fiore range. Fiore is also
available in Berry and Gold this season.
RRP: 6 - 26
Stand number: LB11
Sales contact: Peter Cronin,
Lepel
London
About: Lepel London has

been growing from strength
to strength since it launched
to trade in SS16. This
season, the brand focuses on
perfecting best-selling shapes
with contrasting laces and
new colourways. The brand
is aimed at 19 to 25
year-olds who are looking for
comfortable and fashionable
lingerie at a lower
price point.
RRP: 6 - 24
Stand number: LB11
Sales Contact: Peter Cronin,
28
About: The Panache collection takes a journey from

forgotten British coastal towns to the vibrant tropics,
creating a colourful collection of trusted favourites
alongside fresh new additions. Colours range from
rich jewel tones, through to saturated sorbet shades
and are rounded off with softer neutrals. Highlights
include the new Sandie range in a feminine cashmere
shade while Panache bestseller Jasmine is offered in
three new colourways this season, with the addition
of a new high-waist brief in the petal print range.
RRP: 41.00 - 8.50
Stand number: LB40
Panache Sport
About: The award winning Panache

Sport collection looks back to the 80s
for SS17. Celebrating the nostalgia
of the era, the collection also focuses
on how we envisioned the future at
the time, creating a bold and eclectic
range of energetic colours and
prints with a fashion-forward edge.
The best-selling wired sports bra is
available in a dynamic kaleidoscope
print incorporating vibrant jewel
shades of pink, purple, blue and coral.
The non-wired sports bra is offered in
a cobalt shade paired with black and
yellow for a bold and sleek look.
RRP: 40.00 - 14.00
Stand number: A86/B87
MODA PREVIEW
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
Cyberjammies
About: British nightwear brand Cyberjammies will launch

10 brand new collections over three delivery periods this
season. Launching in December are knitted pyjama sets to
see customers through to March. Colourways include blues,
blacks, pinks and greys mixed with spots and floral prints.
January 2017 will see the launch of lighter-weight nightwear
garments made of cotton modal in fresh summer colours.
The delivery of camis, shorts and chemises will increase as the
season progresses. For the final drop in March, Cyberjammies
will deliver a range of garments in fresh aquas and teals.
RRP: 16 - 38
Stand number: LC32
Sales Contact: Mark Tweed, markcebtrop@gmail.com
Passionata
About: Passionata, the French lingerie brand known for

its playful style, returns with a romantic and sexy range
of styles in fresh summer colours, including vibrant red,
grapefruit, pink and rose pearl.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LB42
Sales contact: athrower@chantelle.fr
Cleo by Panache
About: For SS17, the Cleo collection

offers a vibrant and spirited range of
lingerie, inspired by exploration and
globetrotting travels. Prints range from
saturated florals to relaxed spots and
textured designs, for a fun-loving lingerie
collection in a palette of aquatic blues,
punchy pastels and feminine neons.
The much-loved Minnie range returns
this season in an energetic spot design
in shades of navy, pink and aqua. New
addition Koko Spirit launches this season
in vivid fuchsia.
RRP: 34.00 - 10.00
Stand number: LB40
Royce Maternity
About: Royce offers a range of maternity

and nursing styles designed to provide
comfort and support throughout
pregnancy and nursing. The new Florence
collection is inspired by strong oral prints
in shades of teal and cream/aubergine
with pretty lace detail, based on Royces
best-selling Lauren bra. These styles can
be combined with matching Brazilian and
mini briefs.
RRP: 12 - 36
Stand number: LC28
Sales contact: sales@royce-lingerie.co.uk
Cyberjammies MAN
About: Cyberjammies will return to Moda

with a small menswear collection that
packs a punch. Launching in December are
the new Freddie and Charlie collections
in commercial greys and blues. The
collections offer a mix and match range of
long sleeve and short sleeve tops, pants
and shorts featuring geo prints and checks.
Harry launches in January 2017 in a lighter
weight fabric featuring a fun spot print.
RRP: 18 - 55
Stand number: LC32
Sales contact: Mark Tweed,
markcebtrop@gmail.com
Maison Lejaby
About: New styles from French brand Maison Lejaby

include Baisers De Paris, Talisman and Bohemienne.
Baisers de Paris is a sensual line that combines
embroidery with raw cut tulle, guipure lace and dotted
Swiss lace. Talisman is inspired by tattoos, with its playful
transparency and graphic embroidery that looks like
a drawing on the skin. Bohemienne is inspired by the
Coachella festival in California with a range of lingerie
that can be worn as outerwear.
RRP: 29 - 69
Stand number: LB26
Sales contact: Stephen Morrow, 07535 891577
29
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
MODA PREVIEW
Royce
Lingerie
Royce
Impact Free
About: Royce, the British

brand known for designing
and developing wirefree
lingerie, celebrates its 25th
anniversary this year with a
range of feminine styles for
SS17. Its latest collection
features an exciting oralinspired print and shades
of champagne and blush,
taking the brand in a more
luxurious direction.
RRP: 12 - 36
Stand number: LC28
Sales Contact:
sales@royce-lingerie.co.uk
About: Royce sports bras

are designed to provide
optimum support during
exercise. Made of soft,
breathable cotton with just
the right amount of stretch,
this collection is ideal for
both low-impact activities
like yoga and the toughest
work outs. Impact Free is
expanding its size range this
season with new D-FF cups.
RRP: 12 - 36
Stand number: LC28
Sales Contact:
sales@royce-lingerie.co.uk
Sans Complete
About: Sans Complete, part of French

manufacturer Wolf Lingerie, will present a
feminine collection of lingerie featuring oral
lace and geometric scalloping. New colours
include amethyst, petunia and papaya. Sizes
range from 32-42, B-F.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LC16
Sales Contact: David Lyons,
d.a.lyons@btinternet.com
Silhouette
About: Silhouette, the heritage brand founded in

Britain in 1887, will return to Moda with a lingerie
collection designed for all women and all lifestyles. The
manufacturer develops mastectomy bras, maternity
underwear, bridal wear, shapewear, corsetry and teen
ranges. Sizes range from 28-46 AAA-JJ. No minimum
orders are required and orders are dispatched on the
same day.
RRP: 2 - 26
Stand number: LC29
Sales Contact: Amanda Joynt, amanda.joynt@yahoo.co.uk
Hanky Panky
About: American brand Hanky

Panky embraces fresh yet rich tones
of magenta, blue, white and red
this season. Florals and stripes give
a feminine yet contemporary feel,
in line with Hanky Pankys signature
lace designs.
RRP: 20 - 120
Stand number: LC41
Sales Contact: Abigayle
Akinpelumi, abigayle.akinpelumi@
brandmrkt.com
30
Spanx
About: For SS17, shapewear giant combines

lightweight, seamless shaping fabrics
with luxury properties like lace to give a
sophisticated and beautiful look and feel.
Spanx is distributed by Brand Mrkt in the UK.
RRP: 20 - 99
Stand number: LC41
Sales Contact: Abigayle Akinpelumi,
abigayle.akinpelumi@brandmrkt.com
MODA PREVIEW
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
Ten Cate
About: Ten Cate is a Dutch brand with over 60 years of

know-how in developing underwear for the whole family.
For SS17, the brand has updated its luxury range of cotton
briefs for women with a navy colourway. For men, briefs
and boxer shorts in this range are also available with classic
anthracite/black diamond prints. Ten Cate also returns with
its Secrets range, a collection of seamless lingerie. The brand
has added an oriental orwer print and emerald green
colourway to the collection this season. For children, Ten
Cate has come up with a great Summer Fun Pack for SS17,
featuring cotton underwear, postcards and coloured pencils.
RRP: 15 - 55
Stand number: LA45
Sales contact: inge.schuurman@tencate.org
Le Mystere
About: Romantic spirit is the overriding mood

for Le Mystere SS17 collection with light, airy
and passionate shades of colour. The collection
incorporates soft tones such as jade and iris
alongside transparent watercolour oral prints.
RRP: 16.95 - 99.95
Stand number: LB33
Sales Contact: Charlotte Doucy,
charlotte@intimateslingerie.co.uk
Bluebella
About: Inspired by the uidity

and movement of the body, the
SS17 collection from Bluebella
focuses on modern femininity.
The spirit of the collection is
brought to life through a blended
colour palette of rose dust and
pastel hues, with the drama
of monochrome to stir the
imagination, creating light and
shadow, against the skin.
RRP: 25 - 58
Stand number: LB01
Sales contact:
trade@bluebella.com
Blackspade women
About: UK agent Patricia Eve will once again present

Blackspades range of classic underwear to buyers at
Moda. Featuring high-quality cotton and modal fabrics,
the range also offers seam free options and a heat-sealed
care label to avoid irritation. Lace has been added to some
collections to add a touch of glamour.
RRP: 5 - 25
Stand number: LB17
Adina Reay
Hanro
About: Hanros SS17 collection is all about contrasts of

materials colours and senses. Delicate, transparent fabrics are
paired with chiffon inserts, voiles and opaque fabrics alongside
modern, geometric laces and embroideries. The colour
palette, inspired by Marrakesh, is made up of earthy tones
combined with terracotta, pink, yellow, blue and crisp white.
RRP: 23 - 296
Stand number: LB33
Sales contact: Sophie Charlesworth- slc@intimateslingerie.co.uk
About: British luxury fuller-bust label Adina Reay

will make its Moda debut this season. Launched
last year, the brand challenges traditional
patterns by using whisper-ne yet strong
fabrics to create panels and clever seaming
that maximises support within the cup. The
SS17 collection is inspired by the 1970s Italian
Riviera, with entwined guipure lace seen across
vivid cocktail-inspired hues with an unexpected
injection of metallics. Core styles sit alongside
seasonal collections, including the best-seller,
Fran, featured as part of Selfridges' Body Studio
campaign, updated in summer shades.
RRP: 40 - 250
Stand number: LA34
Sales contact: slake@adinareay.com
31
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
MODA PREVIEW
Marjolaine
Miraclesuit
About: French heritage brand Marjolaine

brings yet more colour and stunning contrasts
to its existing classic silk collections. New
combinations include orchid and rouge as well
as powder and nude. Marjolaine has been
making lingerie and nightwear in Villeurbanne, a
small suburb in Lyon, for the past 70 years.
RRP: 90 - 250
Stand number: LB03
Sales Contact: Richard Barnes,
About: Miraclesuit will return to Mode City

with its Comfort Leg range, featuring soft fabric
around the leg opening that can move in any
direction; the Sexy Sheer range of shorts, slips
and briefs made using sheer panels and extra
rm fabric for support; and slimming garments
made with Back Magic technology, which
is designed to support the back and
prevent slipping.
RRP: 20 - 55
Stand number: LB17
Sales Contact: Chris Eve,
chris@patricia-eve.co.uk
Freya
Acai Activewear
About: New brand Acai Activewear will launch

to trade for the rst time at Moda. Established
by designer Kasia Bromley, whos worked for
the likes of Alexander McQueen, as well as
technical sportswear brands, Acai develops
fashionable and function activewear for all
women, no matter what their tness level.
RRP: From 22
Stand number: LC55
Sales Contact: Kasia Bromley,
info@acaiactivewear.com
About: Freya delicately balances the serene,

calm and sensually feminine for SS17. The
all-new Fresco collection features a sketchy
linear oral design that rests on a crisp white
background. Pastel hues are teamed with a light
,modern geometric net that offers a clean and
fresh look.
RRP: 13 - 30
Stand number: LB23
Mimi Holliday
About: British luxury lingerie brand Mimi

Holliday will return to Moda this season after
a four-year absence. Its new UK sales agent,
Straps Intimate Apparel, will present a SS17
collection inspired by the traditions and quirks
of British summertime, and founder Damaris
Evans North London home.
RRP: TBC
Stand number: LC11
Sales Contact: Sarah Jenkins, Sarah@damaris.co.uk
32
Mish London
About: Mish London is a new brand specialising

in creating stylish pyjamas made from 100%
cotton. The brands new collection enforces
its philosophy that pyjamas do not need to be
seasonal, but with the mix and match nature
of its ranges, women can be in charge of their
own perfect pyjama sets all year round.
RRP: 18 - 50
Stand number: LC24
Sales Contact: Zara Mishon at
sales@mishlondon.com
MODA PREVIEW
PRODUCTS & TRENDS
Anita Comfort
About: Anita Comfort is a best-selling brand

for curvy ladies looking for well fitting, stylish
and comfortable lingerie. The new 2017
collection builds on the strength of best-selling
lines with new colours and a brand new shorty
and hipster briefs to co-ordinate with the
bras. Also new for SS17 is Ancona, featuring a
low-cut neckline with glossy stretch fabric and
cleverly shaped three section cups for a figureflattering silhouette.
RRP: 5 - 45
Stand number: LC02
Sales Contact: Jemma Barnes 07889 473 356
Fantasie
About: New for SS17 is Angelina, a romantic

collection with a premium edge. Its Swiss
designed floral embroidery rests on a warm
Caf Au Lait base, and is adorned with threetone bows and a diamante trim.
RRP: 23-55
Stand number: LB23
Wacoal
About: Wacoal brings ultimate luxury in a new

flamboyant mood for SS17. A hero piece from
the collection is Fascination, which combines
multi-coloured retro embroidery with couture
large flower and leaf motifs. The fine twoway stretch woven crepe de chine gives the
collection an air of pure luxury.
RRP: 35 - 66
Stand number: LB23
Anita Maternity
About: The Anita maternity collection offers

complete breast support for expectant
mums throughout their pregnancy and
nursing. It offers non-wired and soft-wired
maternity bras up to a J cups, as well as
sleep bras, wire and non-wired nursing bras,
nursing pillows, baby belts and maternity
briefs. New colours in best-selling styles and
three brand new bras offer exciting new
choices for all Anita Maternity stockists.
RRP: 5 -23
Stand number: LC02
Sales Contact: Jemma Barnes
07889 473 356
Parfait
About: Fuller-bust brand Parfait will introduce five new

collections this season. Irene offers an unlined wire bra and
bikini in black or ivory, featuring kitschy floral embroidery,
flirty keyholes and scalloped edging. Enora brings a subtle,
geometric patterned minimizer bra and bikini brief in blue or
nude, while Sandrine offers a floral lace plunge longline bra
(pictured), unlined wire bra, Brazilian thong and hipster in
rose or black. Lynn offers a collection of seamless, everyday
essentials starting at an A cup and Matilda features a lacetrimmed contour plunge padded bra and bikini brief in
blush-toned bisque or black.
RRP: 12 - 42
Stand number: LA01
Sales Contact: Rebecca Spiers,
rebeccaspiers@parfaitlingerie.com
Tutti Rouge
About: After the success of its AW16 shape,

Sukki-2-Style, with detachable caging, Tutti
Rouge has added four new shapes into its
SS17 collection. Pixie, a non-padded plunge
bra, features an exclusive birds and bees
prints and a floral lace top cup. Another new
style is Chloe, a long-line bra in summery
neon lime. Tutti Rouge will also introduce
Amelia, a padded balconette bra featuring
coral lace and a contrasting spot mesh top
cup, and Lexi, a non-padded bra in peach.
RRP: 13- 42
Stand number: LB41
Sales Contact: JessH@Tuttirouge.com
33
EVENTS
SOCIAL LITE
Chantal Thomass, the new guest artistic director of the Crazy Horse Paris
show, poses with dancers after a press conference. Credit: Getty
Models present
For Love And
Lemons swimwear
during Miami
Swim Week.
Credit: Getty
Social Lite
THE PEOPLE, THE PLACES AND

THE SCENES AT THE MOST
GLAMOROUS LINGERIE EVENTS IN
THE WORLD THIS MONTH...
Heidi Klum opens a lingerie ice cream

truck at a shopping party for Heidi By
Heidi Klum at Macys. Credit: Getty
Pattie Ficorilli, Dianne Lober and designer Michelle Schlegel pose at the
Lycra Moves Swim cocktail event at SwimMiami. Credit: Getty
A model walks
the runway at the
Courtney Allegra
catwalk show,
presented by
AIDS Healthcare
Foundation during
Miami Swim Week.
Credit: Getty
34
Lingerie
English Rose - available AW16
BEAUTIFUL WIREFREE LINGERIE

Visit us at MODA #LC28 & INDX
www.royce-lingerie.co.uk | sales@royce-lingerie.co.uk
Charnos SS17
Bailey Strapless Bra and Brief
Suspender and Garter

Lingerie Insight 082016

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AUGUST 2016 / VOL 07 ISSUE 08

AS BUYERS GEAR UP TO THE

THE LINGERIE EDIT:

Moda Fair stand LA45

intimate apparel exhibition,

The latest headlines

We meet four independent

The most read-stories on

16 | The Lingerie Edit

Trade show review

Trade show preview

We pick out the lingerie and

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2016 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

The people, the places and

Why is retail lacking in female leaders?

ITP PROMEDIA PUBLISHING

Enjoy the issue!

The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability

Published by and copyright 2016

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2016 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

THIS MONTH IN LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR

Exclusive: M&S defends lingerie

arks & Spencer

includes the results of a study

bad tting experience when

and the current method for bra

FOR THE LATEST LINGERIE INDUSTRY NEWS AND INSIGHT HEAD TO

Jacqueline Gold, the

Breast care brand Amoena

gerie will be Victorias Secret

breast cancer charity

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2016 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

premium label, which was established on the French island

story continued from page 7

M&S defended its product

extensive research during the

Keep up-to-date with

Lingerieinsight.com provides business

For marketing opportunities, please contact:

www.lingerieinsight.co.uk August 2016 LINGERIEINSIGHT

FRONT NEWS REVIEW

Wacoal Europe has announced that it has sold the

out of administration in 2010,

LINGERIEINSIGHT August 2016 www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Retail (Ireland) has sought

Prole Sport, a new sports

MOST READ ONLINE

Is this the worlds most diverse

Lepel swimwear SS17

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New collection features on-trend

Famed photographer, Rankin, takes

VFB unveils results of major

Retail industry analysts react

Lyon move hinders

The Lingerie Edit names

Visitor numbers were down 21%

Loveday London and Inamorata

SNEAK PEEK: Charnos lingerie

The Lingerie Edit names

It was so lovely to be part of this

#fullbust @Elomi_lingerie bra in

roundtable debate hosted by

@LingerieInsight! Coming next