Welcome to welding 101-03

Whether you're a do-it-yourself welder who uses shielded metal arc welding (SMAW) only a
few times a year or a professional welder who welds every day, one thing is certain: SMAW
requires a lot of skill and electrode knowledge. Because variables such as storage techniques,
electrode diameter, and flux composition all contribute to SMAW electrode selection and
performance, arming yourself with basic knowledge can help you minimize confusion and
ensure SMAW success.
1. What are the most common SMAW electrodes?

Hundreds, if not thousands, of SMAW electrodes exist, but the most popular are mild steel
electrodes that fall into the American Welding Society (AWS) classification A5.1. These
include the 6010, 6011, 6012, 6013, 7014, 7024, and 7018 electrodes.
1. How do I decipher these AWS electrode classifications?

AWS uses a standardized coding system to identify SMAW electrodes. Codes are printed on
the side of each SMAW electrode and represent specific properties. For the mild steel
electrodes mentioned previously, here is how the AWS system works:
1.
2. The letter E indicates an electrode.
3. The first two digits represent the resulting weld's minimum tensile strength, measured
in pounds per square inch (PSI). For example, the number 70 in a E7018 electrode
indicates that the electrode will produce a weld bead with a minimum tensile strength
of 70,000 PSI.
4. The third digit represents the welding positions for which the electrode can be used.
For example, 1 means the electrode can be used in all positions and 2 means it can be
used on flat and horizontal.
5. The fourth digit represents the coating type and the type of welding current (AC, DC,
or both) that can be used with the electrode.

How do 6010, 6011, 6012, and 6013 electrodes differ, and when should each be
used?
The 6010 electrodes can be used only with DC power sources. They deliver

deep penetration and have the ability to dig through rust, oil, paint, and dirt.
Many experienced pipe welders use these all-position electrodes for root
welding passes that are located within a pipe. However, 6010 electrodes have
an extremely tight arc, which can make them difficult for amateur welders to
use.
The 6011 electrodes also can be used for all-position welding, except they
require an AC welding power source. Like 6010 electrodes, 6011 electrodes
produce a deep, penetrating arc that cuts through corroded or unclean metals.
Many welders choose 6011 electrodes for maintenance and repair work when
a DC power source is unavailable.
The 6012 electrodes work well in applications that require gap bridging
between two joints. Many professional welders also choose 6012 electrodes
for high-speed, high-current fillet welds in the horizontal position. These
electrodes tend to produce a shallower penetration profile and dense slag that
requires additional post welding cleaning.
The 6013 electrodes produce a soft arc with minimal spatter, offer moderate
penetration, and have a easily removable slag. They should be used only to
weld clean, new sheet metal.

6010 and 6011 Electrodes

The "60" in 6010 means 60,000 pounds' tensile strength (the ability to resist
being pulled apart) per square inch. The "1" means it can be run in any
positionflat, horizontal, vertical, or overhead.
The last number, 0 or 1, is some kind of technical jargon that I have never
used in my 25 years as a journeyman or instructor. But for you engineer types,
you know it has to do with flux composition, slag type, and power supply.
Both 6010 and 6011 are good electrodes. In my opinion, they are the only
rods to tack with. They strike very easily and leave little slag to chip off. They
also are very good when you need full penetration. They are a prime choice
for welding decking, an application in which you must penetrate through the
gauge metal into the joist or beam.
Crank up the machine to warp 10, and you have a portable torch. It doesn't
cut that pretty, but it gets the job done in a pinch when you don't have access

to an oxyacetylene rig and need to cut something in a hurry. Make sure the
area around you is clear, especially below if you are working up high. Cutting
with these electrodes produces big-time sparks and large globs of molten
metal.
6011 runs on AC and direct current electrode positive (DCEP), while 6010
runs only on DCEP. This gives 6011 an advantage if you have an AC-only
machine. I have found, and think most welders will agree, that 6010 runs more
smoothly. The slag chips off better than 6011, and this is one reason it is used
more often than 6011 in root passes on pipes.
Another advantage of these electrodes is the speed at which they burn. This
makes them ideal for welding joists and bridging, especially the stiffening
angle going from joist to joist for bracing. These two electrodes have enough
strength to do the job and are much faster than 7018. They run great downhill
passes where not a lot of penetration or structural strength is required.
1. How do 7014, 7018, and 7024 electrodes differ, and when should each be used?

The 7014 electrodes produce about the same joint penetration as 6012 electrodes and are
designed for use on carbon and low-alloy steels. 7014 electrodes contain a higher amount of
iron powder, which increases deposition rate. They also can be used at higher amperages than
6012 electrodes.

The 7018 electrodes are easy to use and contain a thick flux with high powder content. They
produce a smooth, quiet arc with minimal spatter and medium arc penetration. Many welders
use 7018 electrodes to weld thick metals such as structural steel. They also produce strong
welds with high impact properties (even in cold weather) and can be used on carbon steel,
high-carbon, low-alloy, high-strength steel base metals.
The 7024 electrodes contain a high amount of iron powder content that helps increase
deposition rates and are often used for high-speed horizontal or flat fillet welds. These
electrodes perform well on steel plate that is at least 1/4 inch thick. They also can be used on
metals thicker than 1/2 in.

7018 Electrodes
The 7018 is the backbone of structural welding. This rod runs completely different from the
6010 and 6011 rodsit is much smoother and easier. More of a "drag" rod, the 7018 is also

referred to as a low-hydrogen, or "low-high," rod in the field. The flux contains almost no
hydrogen, and the rod produces smooth, strong welds that are very ductile.
For this reason, these rods are used extensively in structural welding. I've used them on
shopping centers, factories, powerhouses, nuclear weapons assembly plants, high-rise office
towers, dams, and bridges. I've also used them on about a billion "neighbor-friend" projects.
The key word for the 7018 is versatility.
A 7018 rod literally should be dragged across the metal when welding. Along with dragging,
a welder can weave it back and forth or oscillate it to feather it in on both sides. In vertical
welding, some welders will count repetitions on each side of the weld pool, but this is a really
bad habit to get into. As my old instructor used to scream into my ear, "Relax your hand and
watch the puddle!" As long as you watch the puddle and relax your hand, you should be able
to see and feel it tie into the steel. Counting doesn't guarantee a good tie-in; seeing and
feeling do.
Shops, field welders, and home hobbyists often do not store 7018 rods properly. Being a lowhydrogen rod, 7018 requires an environment in which no moisture is allowed to get into the
flux.
This is achieved by using a rod oven. I have seen all sorts of ovens used. I once saw a
refrigerator that was converted into a makeshift oven by placing a high-wattage light bulb
inside. This is done all too often and is in no way acceptable7018 rods should be kept at
250 degrees F. If they are out in the open for less than four hours, they can be rebaked at 700
to 800 degrees F for an hour.
It all depends on the code (for instance, AWS D1.1 92 Steel Structural Welding Code) and
what you are welding. I've seen only a few jobs in which the rods were stored correctly, if at
all.
Another common mistake is opening the wrong end of the box. Another is throwing the boxes
around during storage. Both break the flux off the rods. These damaged rods usually end up
being wasted. If the flux is broken only off the tip, they can be long-arced and used. But if the
flux is broken in other areas, the rod is useless. It's bad enough tossing away rods only
halfway burned, but it is worse to throw away rods that have never been used at all.

If you were to ask a Ford fan, Chevy fan, or Dodge fan which truck is the best, you'd be there
for hours. All three are good trucks with different pros and cons.

The same can be said of the different brands of rod. When it comes down to it, almost all are
good. Some seem to run more smoothly; like most welders, I do have a preference, but can
make do with any of them.

The 6010 and 6011 rods intimidate many first-time welders. Because they require more
manipulation, they are a bit harder to run than 7018.

Many instructors teach only the "whip method," while others believe only in "circles" for rod
manipulation. I don't care if you stand on your head gargling peanut butter, as long as your
weld is sound.
1. What is the best way to choose a SMAW electrode?

Select an electrode that matches the base metal strength properties and composition. For
example, when working on mild steel, generally any E60 or E70 electrode will work.
Next, match the electrode type to your welding position and consider your available power
source. Remember, certain electrodes can be used only with DC or AC, while others can be
used with either.
Assess the joint design and fit-up that you need and select an electrode that will provide the
best penetration characteristics (digging, medium, or light). If you're working on a joint with
tight fit-up or one that is not beveled, E6010 or E6011 will provide digging arcs to ensure
sufficient penetration. For thin materials or joints with wide root openings, select an electrode
with a light or soft arc, such as an E6013.
To avoid weld cracking on thick, heavy material or complicated joint designs, select an
electrode with maximum ductility. Also consider the service condition the component will
encounter and the specifications it must meet. Will it be used in a low-temperature, hightemperature, or shock-loading environment? For these applications, a low-hydrogen E7018
electrode works well.
You should also consider the production efficiency. When working in the flat position,
electrodes with a high-iron powder content, as such E7014 or E7024, offer higher deposition
rates. For critical applications, always check the welding specification and procedures for the
electrode type.
1. What function does the flux surrounding a SMAW electrode serve?

All SMAW electrodes comprise a wire surrounded by a coating called flux, which serves
several important purposes. It is actually the flux, or the covering, on the electrode that
dictates where and how an electrode can be used.

When you strike an arc, the flux burns and produces a series of complex chemical reactions.
As the flux ingredients burn in the welding arc, they release shielding gas to protect the
molten weld pool from atmospheric impurities. When the weld pool cools, the flux forms slag
to protect the weld metal from oxidation and prevent porosity in the weld bead.
Flux also contains ionizing elements that make the arc more stable (especially when welding
with an AC power source), along with alloys that give the weld its ductility and tensile
strength. Some electrodes use flux with a higher concentration of iron powder to help
increase deposition rates, while others contain added deoxidizers that act as cleaning agents
and have the ability to penetrate corroded or dirty work pieces or mill scale.
1. When is a high-deposition SMAW electrode appropriate?

High-deposition electrodes can help complete a job faster, but they are not without
limitations. The additional iron powder in these electrodes makes the weld pool much more
fluid, meaning that they can't be used for out-of-position welding.
They also cannot be used for critical or code-required applications, such as pressure vessel or
boiler fabrication, where weld beads are subject to high stresses.
High-deposition electrodes, however, are an excellent choice for noncritical applications such
as welding a simple liquid storage tank or two pieces of nonstructural metal.
1. What is the proper way to store and re-dry SMAW electrodes?

A heated, low-humidity environment is the best storage place for SMAW electrodes. For
example, many mild steel, low-hydrogen 7018 electrodes need to be stored at a temperature
between 250 and 300 degrees.
Generally, electrodes' reconditioning temperatures are higher than the storage temperature to
help eliminate excess moisture. The reconditioning environment for low-hydrogen 7018
electrodes should be from 500 to 800 degrees F for one to two hours.
Some electrodes, like 6011, only need to be stored dry at room temperature, which is defined
as a humidity level not exceeding 70 percent and a temperature between 40 and 120 degrees
F.
For specific storage and reconditioning times and temperatures, always refer to the
manufacturer's recommendations.

Assess Your Base Metal

The first step in choosing an electrode is to determine your base metal composition. Your
goal is to match (or closely match) the electrode composition to the base metal type, which
will help ensure a strong weld. If youre in doubt about the composition of your base metal,
ask yourself these questions:

What does the metal look like?

If youre working with a broken part or component, check for a coarse and grainy internal
surface, which usually means the base material is a cast metal.

Is the metal magnetic?

If the base metal is magnetic, chances are good that the base metal is carbon steel or alloy
steel. If the base metal is not magnetic, the material could be manganese steel, 300 series
austenitic stainless steel or a non-ferrous alloy such as aluminum, brass, copper or titanium.

What kind of sparks does the metal give off when touched by a grinder?

As a rule of thumb, more flare in the sparks indicates a higher carbon content such as in A-36
grade steel.

Does a chisel bite into the base metal or bounce off?

A chisel will bite into a softer metal, such as mild steel or aluminum, and bounce off of
harder metals, such as high carbon steel, chrome-moly or cast iron.

Tensile Strength
To prevent cracking or other weld discontinuities, match the minimum tensile strength of the
electrode to the tensile strength of the base metal. You can identify a stick electrodes tensile
strength by referring to the first two digits of the AWS classification printed on the side of the
electrode. For example, the number 60 on an E6011 electrode indicates that the filler metal
produces a weld bead with a minimum tensile strength of 60,000 psi and, as a result, would
work well with a steel of similar tensile strength.

Welding Current

Some electrodes can be used with only AC or DC power sources while other electrodes are
compatible with both. To determine the correct current type for a particular electrode, refer to
the fourth digit of the AWS classification, which represents the type of coating and type of
compatible welding current.

Specification and Service Conditions

Make sure to assess the conditions that the welded part will encounter throughout its service.
If it will be used in high heat or low temperature environments, subjected to repetitive shock
loading, a low hydrogen electrode with higher ductility will reduce the chance of weld
cracking. Also, be certain to check for welding specifications if youre working on critical
applications such as pressure vessel or boiler fabrication. In most cases, these welding
specifications will require you to use specific types of electrodes.

Environmental Job Conditions

To achieve the best results, you should always remove excessive mill scale, rust, moisture,
paint and grease. Clean base metals help prevent porosity and increase travel speeds. If
cleaning your base metal is not possible, E6010 or E6011 electrodes deliver a deep
penetrating arc that has the ability to cut through contaminants.

Conclusion
Consideration of the above factors will help you overcome the challenges of selecting the
correct stick electrode for your particular application. However, given the wide range of
available electrodes, several solutions may exist for one application. If you need additional
assistance with electrode selection, your local welding supply distributor or a company
representative of a reputable filler metal manufacturer can serve as an excellent resource.

Brazing and Welding 304L Stainless Steel

By John Palmer
Republished from BrewingTechniques' November/December 1994.
Last issue, one brewer presented a brief overview of options for welding stainless steels.
This issue follows up with some nitty-gritty details about welding and brazing options for
breweries large and small.

Many materials and joining processes are currently avalailable for use in constructing both
home and microbreweries. Each material or process has its own limitations, and these usually
become obvious when the economics of a situation are examined. One of the best beers in the
world, Pilsener Urquell, is brewed and lagered in pitch-lined oak barrels. Although wood and
pitch are readily available, the care and maintenance of such brewing systems can be
extensive. Because of its relatively low maintenance requirements, stainless steel has become
widely used in North America and throughout the world.

STAINLESS STEELS FOR FOOD-GRADE APPLICATIONS

The stainless steel of choice in the food services industry is the austenitic 300 series. The
stainless used for good pots (like Vollrath) is usually 304. Less expensive pots are often made
of 303 alloy stainless, which is less weldable and is quickly attacked by chlorinated cleaners.
Other stainless kitchen equipment, like utensils, are typically ferritic stainless, which has less
chromium and nickel and is less acid-neutral.
The 300 series of stainless steels was originally developed for use in cryogenics. These steels
also perform well at elevated temperatures and are used extensively for steam pipes and
exhaust systems. It is their resistance to elevated temperature, oxidation, and corrosion that
makes alloys 304 and 316 the choice for food preparation equipment, including steam-heated
boilers and storage tanks. But every silver lining has its cloud, and when it comes to joining
stainless steel, that cloud is heat. The metallurgy that makes these alloys corrosion resistant
and strong also makes welding more difficult than is the case with ordinary steel.

METALLURGY BASICS
What makes a steel stainless? The addition of chromium and nickel to the iron creates a
significant percentage of chromium and nickel atoms at the surface. These atoms form
tenacious oxides that seal the surface and prevent oxidation of the iron. The process known as
passivation for stainless steel (see the article by Micah Millspaw in a previous issue of
BrewingTechniques [1]), is a common means of improving this protective oxide layer
through the use of oxidizing acids. Anodizing aluminum alloys is a similar method in that a
solid aluminum oxide barrier is created to prevent further corrosion. Like stainless steel,
anodized (black) aluminum cookware (Magnalite, Calphalon) is acid neutral and resistant to
acidic food because of this heavy oxide layer. Plain (bright) aluminum cookware lacks the
degree of surface oxides necessary to prevent reaction with corrosive media.
Stainless steel's Achilles heel: All metals are crystalline materials that have specific crystal
structures that are dependent on temperature. These structures are referred to as phases and
are given names such as austenite and ferrite. A block of metal is very similar to a block of
salt. A block of salt is really a bunch of grains of salt all fused together. These grains are
oriented every which way, and the interface to the next grain of salt is called the grain
boundary. As you would expect, the grain boundary is weaker than the grain itself. The
crystalline structure of metals is exactly the same in this respect. (By the way, if you would
like to see a metallic grain structure, go look at an aluminum street-light pole. That mosaic
you see is the grain structure.) Because the grain boundaries within a metal are the weakest
sites, heat and corrosion usually affect these areas first.

The corrosion resistance of stainless steel depends on the chromium. Austenitic stainless is a
supersaturated solution of chromium and nickel in iron. It is actually a very high temperature
phase that has been quenched (quick-cooled) to preserve the distribution of elements.
Austenitic stainless does not like middling-high heat. It performs well up to 600 F (315 C),
but higher temperatures in the range of 800-1600 F (425-870 C) cause atom diffusion and
change the metal's properties. Such high temperatures allow the chromium to diffuse away
from the grain boundaries to form chromium carbides, its preferred crystalline structure at
that temperature range. If exposed to these high temperatures and chromium diffusion occurs,
the metal becomes sensitized and prone to cracking. The diffusion of chromium away from
the grain boundaries results in non-stainless grain boundaries surrounded by stainless steel.
This situation soon leads to localized corrosion and rapid cracking of the grain boundaries. To
correct this, the metal must be heated to at least 1900 F (1040 C) for a period of time in an
inert gas atmosphere and then quenched to retain the austenite crystal structure.
Unfortunately, doing this heat treatment to a welded keg would result in considerable warping
and distortion. It is better to get another keg and start over.
Welding is a local melting-freezing process that creates high temperature gradients in the
metal around the weld. This heat affected zone (HAZ) is the region where unwanted atom
diffusion can take place if it is hot enough, long enough. Time/temperature curves describe
this phenomenon, and the curve for alloy 304 is shown in Figure 1. The figure shows that for
type 304 stainless (nominal carbon content of 0.08%), 5 min at 600 C (1110 F) or higher
will cause chromium diffusion that will later cause cracking in service. Type 304L stainless "L" denoting less carbon (nominal 0.03%) - is more weldable and can spend about 6 hours at
600 C before becoming sensitized. Most kegs (in North America) are made from 304L to
facilitate welded construction.
Caution must be taken when heating stainless steel equipment. I know of one home brewer
whose cut-off keg boiler began cracking at the bottom. The cracks appeared at the flame line
where the flame of the cajun cooker-style propane heater met the keg. This shows that he was
running the flame too hot and that, over time, chromium atom diffusion was taking place.
Diffusion is cumulative.
Once this type of cracking occurs, there is no economical way to correct it.