10 Key Factors of Sewing Thread Consumption

By Mayedul Islam | June 14, 2016

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Factors Should Considered During Sewing Thread Consumption

Sewing Thread Consumption:

The amount of threads needed to produce a garment is called sewing thread consumption of
that garment. Generally, it is expressed in length. It must need to determine the thread
consumption of garment. Because, the price of garment is determined with the price
of sewing thread consumption. This article has presented some important factors which are
directly related with thread consumption.

Sewing Thread Consumption

Factors Related with Sewing Thread Consumption:

The following are the factors which are related with sewing thread consumption:
1.
Thickness of fabrics,
2.
Plies of fabrics to be sewn,
3.
Stitch type,
4.
Stitch density,
5.
Width of seam,
6.
Garment size,
7.
Design of the apparel,
8.
Automatic thread trimmer of that machine,
9.
Skill of the operator,
10. Quality of thread.

All the above factors have explained in the below:

1. Thickness of fabrics:
If fabric thickness is higher, then sewing thread needs more to sew the apparel. So, Fabric
thickness is proportional to the amount of sewing thread.
2. Plies of fabrics to be sewn:
Amount of sewing thread depends on the number of plies. So, during, thread consumption, it
should be kept in mind, otherwise thread will be shortage during garments manufacturing.
3. Stitch type:
The amount of stitch varies according to the types of stitch. Example, 101-chain stitch needs
more amount of thread than 301-lock stitch.
4. Stitch density:
Stitch density has a great impact on thread consumption. Threads needed more in higher stitch
density than lower stitch density in the garments.
5. Width of seam:
If seam width is higher, then thread needs more to sew the garments.
6. Garment size:
In case of large garments, sewing thread needs more than small sized garments. Garment size
is one of the most important points which must be considered during thread consumption.
7. Design of the apparel:
Garments design also creates some impact on thread consumption.
8. Automatic thread trimmer of that machine:
Automatic thread trimmer cuts the extra thread during sewing the garments. So, it should be
kept in mind during thread consumption.
9. Skill of the operator:
Skilled sewing operators produced less amount of thread wastage than the unskilled operator.
Its a very important factor to reduce the wastage of sewing thread during sewing.
10. Quality of thread:

Sewing thread breakage occurs during sewing the garments if the quality of sewing thread is
low. So, its a mandatory duty for a garment merchandiser to ensure the right quality sewing
thread before buying it.
-Written by

Mayedul Islam

Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.

Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

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Sewing Thread Consumption for Some

Garments and Stitches
7

Sewing Thread Consumption for Some Apparel and Stitches

Sewing Thread:
Sewing thread is
one
of
the
most
important trimmings for
the
garments.
Before manufacturing the garments, we have to calculate thread consumption for the
definite apparel. Every garment merchandiser should know the approximate amount of
sewing-thread needed for making the garments. This assumption will help him to
prepare costing for the definite garments very fast. As its importance, this article has shown
some approximate sewing thread consumption for the definite garments andstitches.

Sewing thread

Sewing Thread Consumption for Different Garments:

Thread consumption for some garments which can be used as rough has shown in the below
table.

SL No.

Name of Garments

For Using

Sewing Thread
Consumption (m)

01

Aprons

All

20

02

Blouses

Girls, ladies

85

03

Brassieres

Girls, ladies

40

04

Brief

Childs, mens, ladies

40/ 50/ 65

05

Dressing gown

Childs, mens

165 / 250

06

Jacket

Mens

200

07

Jeans

Mens

170

08

Neat wear

Ladies, mens

70 / 80

09

Night dress

Childs, ladies

55 /100

10

Over coat

Childs, ladies, mens

135 / 315 / 520

11

Skirts

Childs

100

12

Rain coat

All

285

13

Trouser

Childs, ladies, mens

100 / 140 / 190

14

Shirt

Mens, childs

110 / 75

15

Slipping bag

Adult, childs

275 / 185

16

Suits

Ladies, mens

365 / 480

17

Swim wear

Ladies

75

18

Tie

Mens

19

Towel

All

10

20

Track suit

Ladies, mens

160

21

Trouser

Mens

270

22

Under wear

Mens

50

23

T-shirt

Childs, ladies, mens

25 / 45 / 35

24

Waist coat

Ladies, mens

180

Sewing Thread Consumption Ratio for Different Types of Stitches:

The amount of thread consumption varies according to the types of stitches.

Stitch Type

Thread consumption for

per cm seam (cm)

No. of
needle

Needle thread and

looper thread ratio

101, chain stitch

4.0

1:0

301, lock stitch

2.5

1:1

304, zigzag lock stitch

7.0

1:1

402, 2- thread chain stitch

5.5

1:3

503, 2- thread over edge stitch

12.0

1.2:1

504, 3- thread over edge stitch

14.0

1:5

512, 4- thread mock safety

stitch

18.0

1:3.3

602, 4- thread covering stitch

25.0

1:3.3

606, 9- thread flat lock stitch

32.0

1:3.5

801, 4- thread safety stitch

17.5

1:1.4

802, 2- thread safety stitch

20.0

1:1.34

805, 2- thread safety stitch

21.0

1:2

Note:
Here, thread consumption are determined by combined with 5% wastage. Thread consumption
may be different according to style of apparel.
-Written by

Mayedul Islam

Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.

Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Factors of Seam Abrasion Resistance

Study on Seam Abrasion Resistance
S M Hossen Uzzal
Planning Executive at Modele De Capital Ind. Ltd.
Narayanganj, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: uhossen@gmail.com

Seam Abrasion Resistance:

It is easy to determine the resistance to abrasion of a sewing thread but the abrasion
resistance of thatsewing thread does not behave similarly when stitches into a seam. The
reasons behind it is that some factors e.g. stitch type, seam type, sewing conditions, fabric
types, thread types etc. alters the sewingthread abrasion behavior.

Study on seam abrasion resistance

To determine the seam abrasion resistance, a seam abrasion machine (SAM) has been
developed by J & P COATs research laboratory. In this machine a multi-directional abrasion
action operates along the edge of the seam. The test result is expressed as number of rubs to
first stitch failure. This article has shown some key factors which are directly affected on seam
abrasion resistance.

Factors Affecting on Seam Abrasion Resistance:

Abrasion resistance of a seam varies depending on some factors which are pointed out in the
below:
1.
Type of threads,
2.
Stitch balance,
3.
Seam tightness,
4.
Fabric type.

All the above four factors have explained in the following:

1. Type of threads:
It has been clearly established that synthetic threads are far superior to the natural threads in
terms ofabrasion resistance but it is not clear whether these results would also apply in case of
seams.
2. Stitch balance:
Normally in a two thread chain stitch seam (type-401), the ratio of the needle thread to looper
threads is 1:1.7. If this ratio is reduced by increasing the length of feed of the needle then
the abrasion resistance of the chain side is improved. But if the needle thread length increases
more than the looper thread then the abrasion resistance performance falls rapidly.
3. Seam tightness:
In the case of tight seams, resistance to abrasion is higher than the loose seams.
The fabrics which are pucker prone are frequently stitched under very light tensions although
sometimes seam grim is unavoidable. Higher the seam grim the less will be the seam abrasion
resistance.
4. Fabric type:
Type of fabric is also important in this regard. Because, a coated or densely woven fabric will
not permit the sewing thread to bed down and thus increases the susceptibility to the surface
abrasion.
Hence, for garments likely to be exposed to abrasive elements during wear it is important to
check stitchbalance, seam and stitch type, fabric type, sewing thread type, seam tightness,
seam grim aspect etc. To obtain a satisfactory seam abrasion resistance before going to full
scale garments production.

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Factors Affecting on Apparel Strength

How to Assure Apparel Strength
Mayedul Islam

Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.

Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
The strength properties of apparels have been considered the most obvious indication of the
service life of apparel. The strength of fabric or garment indicates its ability to resist mechanical
damage due to stress of normal wear and laundering. This article has shown some key points
which assures about the apparel strength, hope it will be very effective for all.

Fabric strength testing in the testing lab

Properties of Apparel Strength:

There are various key properties of apparel strength which are pointed out in the following:
1.
Fabric strength,
2.
Seam strength,
3.
Resistance to yarn slippage.

All the above apparel strength properties have explained in the below:

1. Fabric strength:
Fabric strength can be divided into three different areas i.e. resistance to tensile force,
resistance to tearing force and resistance to bursting force. In the case of woven fabric
resistance to tensile force and tearing force are measured but in case of knitted
fabric resistance to bursting force is measured to assess the fabric strength.

2. Seam strength:
Seam failure of a garment can happen due to the failure of the sewing thread leaving the fabric
intact or fabric rupture leaving the seam intact or both breaking at a time. Seam strength is
tested in almost the same manner as fabric breaking and bursting strength. The strength of a
seam or stitching should be equal to or slightly less than the fabric strength. The elements
which have great impact on the strength of a seam or stitching are:

Stitch type,

Thread strength,

Stitch per inch (SPI),

Thread tension,

Seam type,

Seam efficiency of the fabric.

3. Resistance to yarn slippage:
Seam failure may also occur due to displacement of yarns present in the cut area of fabric after
seam line or stitch line due to stress on seam or joint of the apparel.

Seam Strength: Woven and Knit Fabrics

An Study on Seam Strength: Woven and Knit or Knitted Fabrics
S M Hossen Uzzal
Planning Executive at Modele De Capital Ind. Ltd.
Narayanganj, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: uhossen@gmail.com

Introduction:
There are so many variables in readymade garments industry such as 88 standardized types
of stitches, 284 types of seams, 28 types of sewing needles with 14 types of
different needle tips and other variants. Sewing thread also varies in textile materials, inherent
construction

and

sizes

i.e. ticket

number.

Moreover, types

of

sewing

machines,

speeds, accessories etc also vary. Variations in fabric types are also important in these
connections. The effect of some important factors on seam strength have discussed in this
article.
Study on Seam Strength for Woven Fabrics:
The number of stitches per unit length is the main factor which affects the seam strength.
Generally seam strength increases with the increase of stitch density but when stitch density is
too high or the seam breaks by seam slippage and inverse effect on seam strength may be

produced mainly due to the mechanical damage of the fabric by the sewing machine needle
action. This fact is applicable to warp way stitching.

Seam on woven fabric

Normally seam breakage produced by sewing. Yarn breakage occurs when seam along the
warp direction but fabric yarn slippage occurs when sewn along the weft direction. With the
increasing the number of stitches per unit length, seam strength is reduced in many cases e.g.
stitch type-401, 504 when sewn in weft direction.
With the increasing sewing thread fineness (increase in ticket number), seam strength
decreases in most cases. On the other hand, with the increasing sewing needle count, seam
strength slightly increases in warp way stitching but slightly reduces in weft way stitching. The
influence of sewing yarn count and sewing needle count on seam strength is less than the
influence of stitch type and the number of stitches per unit length.
Study on Seam Strength for Knit or Knitted Fabrics:
The effect of stitch density on seam strength in the case of knitted fabrics are more or less
similar towoven fabrics expect for the fact that the seam strength increases with the increasing
of stitch number per unit length in both the course and wales sense. Seam strength in the
course sense gives more strength than the wales sense.

Seam on knit fabric

With the increasing in sewing yarn count (fineness), seam strength decreases and vice versa.
On the other hand, seam strength decreases and vice versa with the increasing
in sewing needle count. The influence of sewing yarn count and sewing needle count on seam
strength is less than the influence of stitch type and stitch density in both the course and wales
sense.

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How to Test Fabric Sewability in Apparel

Industry
7

By Mayedul Islam | March 27, 2016

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How to Test Fabric Sewability in Apparel Industry

Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
Before manufacturing any garment product in readymade garment industry, fabric should be
tested whether it is perfect or not for sewing. In fabric sewability assessment method, some
tests should be followed which are mentioned in this article.

Fabric sewability assessment process

4.
5.

Resistance to fraying,
Lubricant content.

Fabric Sewability Assessment

Method Followed in Garment
Industry:
To assess the sewability of fabric, it
is necessary to do the following
tests:
1. Seam strength,
2. Seam puckering,
3. Seam slippage,

All the above tests have explained in the below:

1. Seam strength:
The proposed end use and properties of the fabric are considered when sewing thread
type, stitch type and sewing conditions are determined. The seam strength test is done to
ensure that the necessary values for sewability have been achieved.
2. Seam puckering:
Sample fabric is sewn in both warp and weft directions as per preselected sewing conditions. Seam puckering due to the structural jamming is observed and
recorded. Densely woven fabrics frequently contribute to this type of defect. it is so important
to test the sewability of fabric.
3. Seam slippage:
Seam slippage of specimen seams sewn in both warp and weft directions are evaluated as per
standard test method for fabric sewability, so that the slippage does not exceed 5mm.
4. Resistance to fraying:
The sample fabric is subjected to a domestic wash cycle. After that, fabric fraying from the edge
in both warp and weft direction is measured to ensure that fraying does not exceed 3mm.
5. Lubricant content:
The percentage of lubricant present in a fabric is determined by treating the fabric with a suitable
solvent. To facilitate trouble free sewing, lubricant content in a fabric should be between 0.5 to
1% depending onfabric type, construction and lubricant type etc. if the lubricant content in a

fabric is too low than the required amount, then fabric damaged by needle or frictional heat in
needle would obviously result. It is also very important test for fabric sewability assessment.
Fabrics passing all the above mentioned tests for fabric sewability assessment are assumed to
be suitable for making-up. Failure in any of the mentioned test, attention should be drawn to the
fabric manufacturer, so that they could take corrective measures before marketing their
products.

Comparison Between Different Types of Stitch

Comparison Between Different Types of Stitch
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
Stitch is one of the important factors in sewing department of readymade garments sector.
There aredifferent types of stitches used in apparel manufacturing, where each stitch types
contain different characteristics. This article has shown various comparisons among those stitch
which are vastly used during sewing the garments.

Stitch Types

Comparison Between Different t Types of Stitches:

Stitch Type

Stitch No.

101
Single
thread chain
stitch
Hand stitch
Lock stitch

103
200

301
304

Stitch Formation

Properties

Application
Button
sewing,label sewing,
One
needlethreadsinterloping Elastic and easy to basting, bagclosing,
with itself.
unravel.
tacking.
Using a curve needle to
penetrate through the
fabric surface stitches
on Hemming
which does not show on Invisible
thegarments surface. ofpants and shirts.
the fabric.
Done by hand with one
Basting on tailored
needle.
Flexible using
jackets
Reversible,
strong,
versatile,
secured,
stitching,
Interlacing of needle neat, flat but not Top
common seamsewing.
thread and bobbin thread. stretchable.
Similar to 301 but in a Similar to 301 but Attaching
elastics,
zigzag pattern.
stretchable.
decoration andlace to

401

402
404

406
Multi thread
stitches

407

501
502

503

504
Over edge
stitch
Cover stitch

514
602

lingerie.
Waist band, inseam of
One needle thread and Continuous running, jeans, side seam or
one
looper
thread strong
extensible, side sleeve seam
rain
interloped or interlaced durable, thick and ofshirts and
together.
can be unraveled.
wear.
A looper thread travels
between two needle
threads
on
the
Simulate permanent
underside
of
crease on the knitted
thefabric and form a
pants and cording
ridge.
For decorative effect. backs of gloves.
Attaching of waist
linings
to
Similar to 401 but in a Higher elasticity then band
mens trouser.
zigzag pattern.
401.
Cover
scanning,
sewing belt loops,
Concealed raw edges binding and attaching
on the underside to elastic to underwear
Similar to 401 but does produce a flat and hemming, T-shirt and
not ridge up.
comfortable seam.
sportswear.
Similar to 406 but with High
elasticity, Attaching elastic band
three needle threads and stronger and better to briefs, panties and
undergarments.
one looper thread.
coverage effect.
One
needle
thread
interloping itself warps Elastic, allow the
and
protects seam to break open,
the edge.
easily unraveled.
Break open seaming.
Formed by one needle
and one looper thread.
Stronger than 501
Bag seeming
Similar to 502 but the
needle thread interlocks
serging
on
with
the Better edge coverage Thin
blind
looper thread on the edge then 501 and 502, dresses,
hemming on T-shirts.
of pattern.
highly elastic.
Higher
extensible,
One needle thread and tighter
structure,
two
looper
threads prevent fraying but Popular seaming and
onknitted
interlock on the edge of bulky and easily run surging
garments.
plies.
back.
Produce a wider
bright than 504,
seaming
Formed by two needle stronger and more Strong
on knits andwoven.
and one looper threads.
elastic.
Similar to 406 but it has a Provide excellent top Attaching knit collar

covering thread on the

top surface.
Similar to 407 but it has a
covering thread on the
top
surface.
Similar to 605 but it has
four needle threads and
one cover and one looper
thread.

605

607
Combinatio
n

401 and
504

and bottom cover and on

garments.
flat seam.

Better coverage than

602.
Flat stretchy and
smooth trims and
seams
simultaneously.
Five threads safety
over edging, serging
Combined stitch types of and
seaming
401 and 504.
simultaneously.

the knit

Cut edge binding and

elastic attaching.
Flat, butted seam on
briefs and panties.
Side
seaming
shirting.

Difference Between Sewing Method and Alternative

Method
By Mayedul Islam | February 29, 2016
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Difference Between Sewing Method and Alternative Method
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com

Introduction:
In readymade garments industry, fabrics are joined by using two methods for making the
garments where one is sewing method and another is alternative method. Both methods
contain some features which shown in this article by using table.

of

Fabric joining method followed in apparel industry

Sewing Method:
It is the most used sewing method in garments manufacturing industry. Sewing method is
done by usingneedle and thread. One of the important advantage of this method is
that, fabrics can be sewn again by opening defective stitch.

Sewing method

Alternative Method:
This method is not used as sewing method. Here, fabrics are joined by using adhesive, fusion
glueing, stapling and moulding. Here, fabrics cannot be joined again by opening defective
stitch.

Alternative fabric joining method

Comparison Between Sewing Method and Alternative Method:

SL No.
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08

09
10

Sewing Method
Garments are joined here by
using needle and thread.
Garments
become
soft
to
thesewing line.
It is comfortable during the end
use.
The production of seam by using
this method contains higher
strength.
Fabrics can be joined here by
sewing at the higher speed.

Alternative Method
Two or more fabrics are joined here by using
fusion glueing, stapling, moulding and adhesive.
The fabrics becomes stiff and rough to the sewing line
(Which is not appropriate for moulding).
It is not comfortable during the end use (Not perfect for
moulding).

Here, the seam strength is comparatively less

thansewing method.
Fabrics are joined here comparatively at lower speed
than sewing method.
All the fabrics cannot be joined by using this method.
Most of the fabrics are joined by The fabrics must contain 65% thermoplastic fibre for
using sewing method.
using this method.
It is most useful and universal
method.
The using of this method is rare.
Here, the fabrics can be sewn Here, the fabrics cannot be joined again by opening
defective or faulty stitch.
again by opening faulty stitch.
The bondings of stitches are not
water resistant due to the hole
made by needle at the sewing Here, the bondings of stitches are water resistant at
line.
the sewing line.
The probability of seam slippage
is
higher
in
case The probability of seam slippage is comparatively
ofsynthetic fabric.
lower than sewing method.

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