Assignment on: Garments inspection.

SUBMITTED TO:
Jenifar Amman
Lecturer of GMT- III
Department of Textile
Southeast University

SUBMITTED BY:
Name:Thushar kumar Bhowmik.
ID :2007200400062
Batch:6th
Group : B
Date of Submission: 01/01/2011

Garment Inspection
Introduction:
All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The
quality of the garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made
for so therefore buyers expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow
various methods of inspection techniques all through the production and prior to
shipment release from factory. Following correct inspection procedures, inspection
systems and eventually shipment release gives the clear judgment of the quality of
the garment. Under quality assurance process, the bulk production is inspected
before delivery to the customer to examine if it meets the specifications. The
consumers want to get quality products and the products should reach the
consumers with right quality.
Quality assurance covers all the processes within a factory that contributes to the
production of quality garment products and is conducted right from where housing,
manufacturing, finishing and packing process until shipment is released. The final
inspection is carved out by buyer representative or independent auditors free from
any pressure from vendor or factory representative. Air of final inspection is to
visually inspect articles at random from fully or 80-90% packed purchase order to
verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or
reference tagged sample received from buyer. Result is documented and recorded
as reference but still vendor/manufacturer is always responsible for claims if any
arising due to any defective goods found packed and inspected at buyers
warehouse.

Types of Inspections:
Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done to
crosscheck for final verification of Bulk fabric and trims materials, styling cutting
way, manufacturing details and workmanship of the garment or pre-production
sample as per the customer requirement.

1st inline production inspection: This inspection is done at the start of production
when first production output of particular style of garments is inspected; to
distinguish possible discrepancies or variation and to do necessary corrections to
be made bulk production. This type of inspection is done at preliminary stage of
manufacturing of a style covering mainly style detail, general appearance,
workmanship, measurements, fabric quality, Trims and components, Lot color,
printing, embellishments and washing quality.
2nd line Production Inspection: This inspection is done during production to
ensure initial discrepancies have been corrected and rectified. This inspection is a
follow-up of the 1 st inline production inspection and is generally carried out after
1st line inspection when discrepancies have been detected at that time.
Final Random Inspection: This inspection is carried out when the production of
the total quantity of an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be
selected from the order and a percentage of the garments will be inspected, this
percentage usually being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling inspection
system as specified by the buyer.

Garment Defects Classification :

Once the samples are selected, each article is to be individually inspected. Defects
detected during an inspection are buyer specific so therefore vary from one buyer
to another. Defects are classified within the following categories:

Critical Defect: A serious defect that can cause harm or injury to the user
and/or result in a hazardous condition.
Major defects: A defect that falls to meet the mandatory regulations directly
affecting the usability, salability, safety and value of the merchandise or as
specified by customer buyer are considered as major defects and are
generally non repairable for example fabric hole, shading among panel,
wrong measurement, foreign yarn, dye patches etc. The measurement
tolerate level may vary from customer to customer.
Minor Defects: A defect that does not adversely affect the usability of the
product but does consists of a deviation from the original sample, and may
affect the sale of the product. Some of these defects are due to workmanship
and some can be repairable but still can deteriorate the serviceability of the
merchandise for example stain, skip stitch, wavy bottom hem etc.

General Requirements for Inspection:

Work area must be well lighted and the measuring table should be large
enough to hold the entire garment spread out flat and buttoned.
Use a soft fiberglass ruler or a metal ruler that has been calibrated against a
rigid steel ruler.
Cuts should be stored in the auditing storage area to facilitate the access of
the boxes for the auditor.
Sample boxes must be randomly obtained. Cuts that are only partially
boxed are not ready for the final statistical audit and should not be audited
until all boxes are complete. Samples must be randomly obtained from
finished sealed boxes.
Final Statistical Audits are done following a 4.0 AQL.
Auditors should establish a routine for inspecting garments in order to
eliminate the possibility of overlooking an operation.
The auditor must be aware of the specifications of the garment.
Round measurements are made to the nearest 1/8 th unless specifications
require that it is taken to the 1/16th.
All operations must be checked in the final audit. Also, tacks, shading, long
threads, raw edges, skip stitches and other defects must be checked.
Garments with major defects are to be marked by colored tape and set aside
for repair.
Detailed records should be recorded and major defects must be properly
recorded with their code.
Cuts that have not passed a final audit or that have only been partially
audited should not be loaded on the truck.
After inspection, the remainder of the garments in the box must be counted
and checked for size. The label on the exterior of the box must reflect what
is inside the box.
Garments that have passed the inspection must be returned to the box in the
same manner that they were in when they were taken out. All repairs should
be set aside and marked.
Detailed records of any defects must be recorded.

AQL Random Sampling inspection

AQL stands for Acceptable Quality level. The AQL determines the maximum
amount of admitted defective units in a sample. AQL, for purposes of sampling
inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process average. The most
commonly used AQL is a major 2.5 Minor 4.0. The AQL random sampling
inspection is derived from the mathematical theory of probability and is based on
the sampling these defined in military standard 105D (MIL - STD - 105D). Some
defectives are considered acceptable.
This method constitutes taking random sample from a lot of merchandise,
inspecting them and depending on the quality of the sample inspected determining
whether the entire lot is acceptable or not. The MIS - STD - 105D (also BS 6001,
ISO 2859, DIN 40080) provides the sampling plans; and these determine the
number of samples of be inspected in lot size, in addition to indicating and the
acceptable quality level (AQL) which represents the maximum number of defects
per hundred units that, for the purpose of the sampling inspection can be
considered satisfactory as a process average.
In general cases the buyer will determine which sampling plan and what AQL to
adopt. The AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection conditions are required for
expensive items like up market or Boutiques. The AQL 2.5 is applied when textiles
or normal/good quality are involved. There are three types of sampling plans. Each
sampling plan can be performed at three levels, i.e. normal tightened and reduced,
depending on inspection requirements and quality of the products. In the garments
industry generally single and double normal sampling plans are applied. The
sample size code letter table shows various lot sizes corresponding to a series of
code letters. There are seven inspection levels, four for general inspection (already
mentioned) and three for special inspection. For garment inspection, general
inspection level II (normal II) is normally applied.

Inspection Methods :
Single sampling plan - Normal inspection
Assurance as AQL 2.5% and a lot of 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80
garments. If the number of defective garments found are 5 the total lot is
"Acceptable" suppose if the garments found is 6, the total lot is "Reject/Re-Check".
Double sampling plan - normal inspection
Assurance an AQL 4.0% and lot size is 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80
garments. If the number of defective garments found is 7, the total lot is
"Acceptable" suppose if the defective garments found are 8, the total lot is
"Reject/Re-check". Today most of the customer demand for high quality products
in low prices. So we should maintain the quality from the beginning stage of the
production then only the final product with reach the consumer with right quality
and we can get the order continuously from our customers. The garment
manufacturers inspect their products continuously by designated responsible
inspectors then only the right quality product will reach the consumers.
Inspection-shipment carton selection :
For pre-final inspection, selection of cartons from total cartons
packed can be done based as shown table:
No.

Total cartons in
Shipment

Carton Selected

1-15"

15-25

26-90

91-150

151-280

13

281-500

20

501 and above

32

Selection of Fabric:
Designers specify the fabric as part of their design concept. Designers may develop
new styles for fabrics that have been successful. In other cases, untested fabrics
may inspire new designs. Once the final fabric has been determined, the
manufacturer contacts a textile supplier and places a tentative order for that fabric
(also called "taking an early position"), based on estimates of the line's sales.
Apparel manufacturers inspect the fabric stock upon arrival, so that any fabric
irregularities are caught early in the production process. Textile producers also
generally inspect fabrics before sending them to manufacturers. These inspections
are an important part of quality control, which takes place at nearly every stage of
apparel production.

Why inspection is required:

Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing

to avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in
manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction,
fabric weight, shrinkage, end to end or edge to edge shading, colour, hand feel,
length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection ensures to minimize
the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting
inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also
reduce rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.

Four Point System of Textile Inspection

Four Point System is based on penalty points given to a defect found when
inspecting fabric. Rule is as below:
Not

more than four penalty points may be given for any single defect.
No more than four penalty points may be given to one linear yard/meter
regardless of the number of defects found within one yard/meter.
For continuous defects such as shading between side, centre side, side to
side shading, end to end shading no penalty points are assigned but the roll
is graded as second quality and must be reported to mill for replacement.
General Inspection Procedures
1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough
ventilation and proper lighting.
2. Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to
inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96
fluorescent bulbs above viewing area. Back light can be used as and when
needed.
3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per
minute.
4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.
5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be
available prior to inspection.
6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting
inspection for assessing colour, hand, weight, construction, finish and
visual appearance.
7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre
and selvage and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be
evaluated and documented.
8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved
weight.
9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
10. All defects must be flagged during inspection
11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as
mentioned on supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented
and reported to mill for additional replacement to avoid shortage.
If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be
done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.

Designers specify the fabric as part of their design concept. Designers may develop
new styles for fabrics that have been successful. In other cases, untested fabrics
may inspire new designs.Once the final fabric has been determined, the
manufacturer contacts a textile supplier and places a tentative order for that fabric
(also called "taking an early position"), based on estimates of the line's sales.
Apparel manufacturers inspect the fabric stock upon arrival, so that any fabric
irregularities are caught early in the production process. Textile producers also
generally inspect fabrics before sending them to manufacturers. These inspections
are an important part of quality control, which takes place at nearly every stage of
apparel
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New fabric printing technologies have dramatically decreased the amount of time
between ordering a fabric sample and receiving it, if the yarn and base fabric are
available. For short-run, limited volume apparel, man-made fabric sample prints
can be designed and printed in less than 48 hours. For larger volume orders,fabric
printing can take up to 10 weeks.
Fabric Quality Inspection:
The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric when it is received
as a roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturing methods cannot compensate for
defective materials. At Island Apparel, we inspect 10% of the rolls we receive and
evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related
quality problems before it is put into production
If you want to produce high quality garments, you need high quality piece goods.
When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full
100% inspection ofthe fabric. '''Apparel Search recommends a minimum 10%
inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. Many factories attempt
to inspect the fabric during the spreading, but this is probably unrealistic to depend
on the spreader to control the fabric quality evaluation. The fabric should be
inspected prior to the fabric reaching the cutting tables.There are different
procedures followed for detecting fabric defects. It includes 10 point system,
Dallas System, 10 point system

The Ten-Point System

It was developed in the 1950's. This system assigns penalty points to each defect,
depending on the length of the defect. The system is a bit complicated because the
points per length vary for warp and filling defects.
Dallas System
It was developed in the 1970's. This system was developed specifically for knits.
According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished garment the
garment would then be termed a second. In regard to fabric, this system defines a
second as "more then one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten
yards." For example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects.
Four-Point System
In this system, you should inspect at least 10 percent of the total rolls in the
shipment. Make sure to select at least one roll or each color way. The defect
classification works as follows.
Amount to select: Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls of the shipment.
Selection of rolls: Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one role must
be selected, then choose the additional roles in proportion to the total number of
roles per color received.
Defect Classification (Four- Point System)
Size Defect Penalty
3 inches or less

1 Point

Over 3 inches, but less than 6

2 Points

Over 6 inches, but less than 9

Over 9 inches

3 Points
4 Points

The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects
are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is
any defect that would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)

Major Defects
Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes,
missing yarns, yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn.
Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop,
color out, color smear, or shading.
Acceptance Criteria and Calculation
40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate
No. of Points per 100 yds = No. of penalty points x 100 /Yds inspected
Inspection Procedure
Determine the amount to inspect 10%)
Select the rolls to inspect.
Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.
Cut off a 6 inch piece across the width off the end of the roll. Mark the
right and left side of the strip. Stop the inspection process every 50 yards
and use the strip to check for any shading problems. Also make sure to
check the end of the role.
Inspect for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find
the defects. (The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to
effectively find flaws). Sometimes you may have to turn the light off to
see how a flaw will affect the appearance of a garment.
Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece
goods source.
Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric.
Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily
found and noted.
Record any defects.
Shading
Shading is an important defect to catch prior to production. The bundler has the
responsibility to check for shade problems prior to allowing the bundles to be put
into the line. Both rolls and cuts should be checked for shading problems.

 A 4 inch square swatch from every roll received should be cut. (It is
important to obtain a sample from every roll so that the rolls are checked
100%.
All samples should be laid out and grouped by shade. This area must be well
lit in order to properly shade the rolls.
Rolls should be grouped together accordingly by shade.

Pant Inspection Procedure:

Lay garment face up and visually check the front for shading, fabric
defects, and soil.
Measure the waist with a metal or fiberglass ruler. Check that the
measurement of the waist is the same as the size on the label.
Check that pockets are functional and have no shaded pieces, missing
tacks, and are overall correct.
Check the placement of the button and that it lines up with the hole.
Button and unbutton the garment to ensure that there are no problems
with function.
Check the zipper making sure it is properly placed, the right length and
that it is functional (must zip and unzip smoothly).
Check that the crotch has the correct tacks and no dog ears. A slight
pull should be administered to the crotch area to ensure that all the
seams are secure.
Measure the inseam and verify that it is the same as the size label.
Also, measure the inseam to ensure that both legs are the same length.
Flip garment over and visually inspect the back for shading, fabric
defects, and soil.
Check that the back pockets are properly aligned, have tacks, and are
not too open (exposing the inside of the pocket).
Compare the sobar in the back pocket to the paper ticket and the woven
size label to be sure that the garment is correctly labeled.

 Check belt loops for correct size, attachment, and alignment.

Ensure that the label is properly placed and aligned correctly.
Turn the pants inside out and inspect all seams and operations.
Then turn the garment outside in and re-button, zip and fold the
garment.
Shirt Inspection Procedure:
Visually inspect the front of the garment for any defect.
Check that the two sides of the shirt are the same length and evenly
meet at the bottom.
Check that all buttons line up with their button holes and are
properly placed. (Also, be sure that the number of buttons is correct
and that all of them are securely attached to the garment.)
Buttons should be checked for function (button and unbutton to
ensure that no button holes are too small).
When checking short sleeve garments, both arm holes must be
checked for size.
Pockets must be checked for shading, tacks, and placement.
Crooked or uneven pockets are unacceptable. Pockets of a patterned
fabric must line up according to the print. (A pocket set even
slightly off can be very apparent when using a patterned fabric.)
Garments must be turned inside out and all seams must be checked.
3 garments of every size must be measured. (Bust, sweep, collar,
yoke, cuff, arm hole, natural shoulder, and pockets must all be
measured and compared to the specifications of the garment.
Lot Failure:

If a lot fails, then a 100% inspection must occur. First 20% must be
inspected and those results should be combined with the failure results
if the lot still fails then continue to check 100%.

Acceptable Quality Level

Lot Size

1.5

2.5

4.O

6.5

Inspec Acce
t
pt

Inspe
ct

Acce
pt

Inspe
ct

Accep Inspec Accep

t
t
t

Less than
151
8

13

151-280

20

13

13

280-500

32

20

20

20

501-1200

32

32

32

32

12013200

50

50

50

50

320110000

80

80

80

80

10

1000135000

125

125

125

10

125

14

35001150000

200

200

10

200

14

200

21

150001500000

315

10

315

14

315

21

200

21

500001 &
Over
500

14

500

21

315

21

200

21

Final Statistical Auditing Management Guidelines:

Visual Defect Codes

CODE

DEFECT

KREYOL

Barcode

Barcode

Bartack Omitted

Manke Tack

19
62
20
63
21
64
22

Belt loops Mis- Placed/ Poorly

Attached
Twisted Leg
Belt loops Omitted
Uneven Hemming
Buttonholes Faulty/ Mis- Placed
Wrinkles/ Creases/ Poor Pressing
Buttons Broken/ Cracked/ Defective
Wrong/ Faulty Components
Buttons Mis- Placed/ Poorly
Wrong Item/ Style
Attached
Wrong Trim or Embellishment
Buttons Wrong
Zipper Defective/ Faulty
Collar Crooked
Buttons Omitted
Color Wrong
Fronts Long/ Short
DE Omitted/ Or Incorrect
Cuff Attached Uneven
DE Placement Incorrect
Bartack Mis- Placed
Holes
Mixed Country of Origin
Incomplete Sewing
Label Mis- Placed/ Poorly Attach
Incorrect Fabric
Barcode Omitted/ Incorrect
Label/ Tags/ PS Sticker Wrong
Box Cut
Label Mis- Printed
Hook
&
Eye
Placement/
Label Omitted
Attachment
Margins Wide or Narrow
Packing Errors
Material Flaws
Ears
Needle Cuts/ Holes/ Chews
Parts
Caught
in
Unrelated
Not
Sewn To Spec.
Operations

65
23
66
24
67
25

Pockets Omitted
Open Seams/ Runoffs
Rolled Seams
Parts Mixed
Safety
Parts Omitted

CouturePoche
Overt/ Couture Tombe
Manke
Ate-a

26
68
27

Parts Shaded
Snap Quality
Plackets Crooked

Piece Deux Couleur

28

Pleats

Plis Nan Couture

29

Pleats Omitted/ Wrong Number

Plis Manke

30

Pockets Crooked/ High/ Low

Poche Crochu/ Haut/ Bias

3
45
4
46
5
47
6
48
49
7
50
8
51
9
53
10
54
11
55
12
56
13
57
14
58
15
59
16
60
17
61
18

Passant Mal Place/ Mal Tache

Pied Crochu
Manke Pasant
Ourlet Pa Egal
Boutonie Pa Bon/ Mal Place
Press Pa Bon
Bouton Kase/ Defecture
Bouton Mal Place/ Mal Tache
Bouton Pa Pou Li
Zip Pa Mache Bien
Colle Crouchu
Manke Bouton
Coule Pa Bon

Tack Mal Place

Trou Fabric
Pa Fin Coude
Label Mal Place/ Mal Tache
Twal Pa Pou Li
Manke Barcode
Label/ Tag Pa Pou Li
Label Pa Bon/ Mal Tache
Manke Label
Couture Tro Large ou Piti
Mill Flaw
Trou Aiguille
Pa Coude Selon Specifications

Piece Melange
Piece Manke

Plackets Crochu

69

Cutting Quality

70

Incorrect Stitches Per Inch

71

Strike Through

72

Bowed Print

73

Cracks in Print

74

Excess Glue

75

Incorrect Placement

76

Ink Migration

77

Lines in Print

78

Pin Holes in Print

79

Poor Print Coverage

80

Pressure Marks

81

Registration

82

Scorching

83

Wrong Color Sequence

84

Wrong Embroidery Design

85

Wrong Print Design

86

Wrong Thread Color

87

Stitch Count Incorrect

Some Example of Inspection from:

Fil Coule Pa Bon