Tech Book

TECHNICAL
INFORMATION
BOOKLET
For more information please call ask an architect
on 1300 134 513 or go to askanarchitect.com.au
This technical information booklet constitutes a vital part of Ask An

Architects recommendations to you.
We hope it will be a practical guide to helping you remedy problems with
your property and maintain it for the future. You should use this guide
in conjunction with recommendations outlined in the report provided
by our architect.
Failure to observe the provisions of the warning sheet could lead to
premature deterioration of the property. Please ensure that all works
are undertaken by appropriately qualified tradespersons.
Contents
1. PROPERTY MAINTENANCE GUIDE
2. CRACKING IN BRICKWORK
3. RE-STUMPING
4. ROOFING AND GUTTERING
5. TERMITES & BORERS
6. TREATMENT OF DAMPNESS
7. HEALTH & SAFETY WARNINGS
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COPYRIGHT 2012 ARCHICENTRE PTY LTD ABN 34 001 866 520

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In this section you will find a range of tips to help you look after that most important asset - your
property.
We wish you many years of trouble-free ownership, however, deterioration will occur quickly in properties
that are not looked after, so it is imperative that you undertake a regular property maintenance program to
ensure that your property remains in good condition.
It is important you attend quickly to the defects that were noted by your inspecting architect as needing
urgent attention. If you are in doubt about any aspect of your report, contact your architect.
It is also important to understand, where a pre-purchase inspection has been carried out, your Ask An
Architect inspector has carried out a visual inspection only of the areas that were reasonably accessibly at
the time of the inspection. This type of inspection has its limitations and therefore, as a guide, in addition to
the costs to rectify or repair any defects noted by the inspector, property buyers should budget to spend
around 5% of the value of the property on maintenance and unexpected repairs that may become
necessary over the first few years of ownership.
MAINTENANCE - OUTSIDE AND AROUND THE BUILDING
It is important to maintain a stable moisture level in the ground around the buildings to prevent uneven
footing settlement which can result in cracking of brickwork and external claddings as well as internal walls
and plasterboard linings. Clay soils can swell in wet conditions and shrink in dry weather, while
uncompacted or sandy soil can subside; and any of these conditions may cause a brick structure to crack
and a framed structure to settle unevenly, distorting the frame with consequential cracking of internal
linings.
Maintaining the Garden
During dry seasons or periods, drip watering systems are better than sprinklers at maintaining soil
moisture levels, because the water slowly infiltrates the soil rather than running off the surface. Your water
supply authority may allow drip systems to be used during periods of water restrictions if they incorporate a
pressure reducer and timer. You should contact them for further details.
It is important that fast growing trees are not
planted close to the building, as tree-induced
drying is the biggest cause of footing failure and
brickwork cracking in clay soils. Some tree
species have particularly vigorous root systems
which can also cause damage.
A more commonly accepted formula is that a
tree's root system will extend for a horizontal
distance equal to its height. In a line of trees,
where competition for water exists, the
horizontal root spread is one and half times the
tree height.
Where large trees already exist, tree pruning is
advisable, or in severe cases the installation of
root barriers. For further details refer to the
Technical Information Sheet on "Cracking in
Brickwork".


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Grade the surrounding ground and paving to shed water away from the building at all times to prevent or
decrease sub-floor dampness. In older brick buildings, wet soils along with faulty damp-proof courses are a
major factor contributing to rising dampness. In extreme wet conditions, concrete floor slabs can become
damp if not properly waterproofed.
If your ground becomes unacceptably boggy in wet weather, you can install agricultural drains and backfill
with coarse aggregate. Persistent boggy soils may also require the addition of sandy loam to raise the
garden's surface above the water table. It is important, however to ensure any soil or garden beds against
brick walls are kept 150mm or more below the underside of structural timber floor members and lower than
the damp-proof course, and below the weep holes around buildings on concrete slabs to avoid introducing
conditions which may compromise the existing damp proof course or damp barriers within the building.
Maintaining Fences
Regularly cut back trees and creepers and drain away boggy soils to prevent early deterioration of your
fences. You should remove soil build-up from the bottom board, the plinth, or it will deteriorate rapidly,
particularly if the soil is moist. If soil build-up is inevitable, renew the ordinary hardwood plinth with CCA
treated pine or a rot resistant hardwood such as redgum, to extend the life of the fence.
Preventing Slippery Pathways
Concrete or brick paths and paving can become slippery with the shedding of leaves and sap, possum
droppings and moss; they may also lift or crack under the pressure of spreading adjacent tree roots.
Regular maintenance will be required to trim back vegetation, clean paths, and repair any cracking or
movement to prevent trip and slip accidents.
There are also a number of specially developed anti-slip finishes that can be applied to external paths and
trafficable areas.
Mould and lichen build up can cause the surface to become slick and slippery in the wet. Bleaches may
improve the appearance but will not necessarily kill the spores or remove the mould from the surface and
the problem will reappear. High pressure water spray or scrubbing with a stiff broom or wire brush,
together with a borax, vinegar, or chlorine solution will kill and/or remove the mould and fungi. Care must
be taken when removing mould as dry spores can cause respiratory problems as well as uncontrolled
spread. Similarly, care must be taken applying any chemical, even the household friendly variety, as these
can damage vegetation, as well as also causing skin and respiratory irritations in both humans and pets
follow the instructions on any proprietary products.
Maintaining the Roof
Minor roofing faults can cause water damage and potentially serious structural damage if not rectified.
If your inspector was unable to gain access to the roof during their inspection, it would be prudent to have
the roof assessed by a roofing contractor with the appropriate access equipment. Once it has been
assessed and any necessary repairs undertaken, you should carry out your own regular maintenance
checks, especially after high winds and storms. The safest way to examine the roof is by viewing the
roofspace from the ceiling access hole during daylight hours. Climbing into the roof space can be safely
undertaken where access ways have been laid between framing otherwise there is the danger of
damaging or falling through the ceiling. Where the roof space is unlined, newly dislodged or cracked tiles
will permit increased light to filter through, and the timber frame may show white powder or dark water
stains which can be traced back up to cracked tiles, loose pointing, bedding, flashings or sealant.
Where your inspector has noted restricted inspection access to your roof and / or guttering, it is probable
that you too will find access difficult for regular maintenance cleaning and inspection. Do not access your
roof unless it is safe to do so and fall prevention measures are in place. If in doubt, call in a tradesman with
appropriate expertise and equipment.
Be advised that as well as safety issues, there is always the risk that working on, or walking over, a roof for
regular maintenance or the installation of services and equipment, can lead to damage. All tiles can
become brittle as they age, while the surface of sheet metal roofs can be scratched or dented. Take care if

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replacing, repositioning or re-mortaring defective tiles, or when checking or cleaning flashings and gutters.
A professional may need to be called in if your tiles are brittle. Professionals should have spare tiles to
replace any cracked ones. Lichen growth does not indicate deterioration, and can be removed if required.
Refer to the section on "Roofing and Guttering".
Metal roofs can rust quickly once their protective coating is scratched or abraded, and particularly where
water is allowed to pond. From your daytime vantage point in the roof space, pinprick rust holes will show
up like stars at night. If roof space access was restricted during your Property Inspection, remedy the
situation if possible, so a roof and framing check can be performed.
Roof mounted swimming pool solar heating strapping or panel mounting brackets may also catch leaf litter,
reducing effective shedding of water and leading to possible roof leakage as water backs up behind the
leaf build-up. Care should also be taken to maintain roof-mounted solar hot water units or pool heating
systems to avoid leaks, which may affect flashings and guttering, particularly where the recirculating water
may contain corrosive chemicals.
Maintaining Gutters
It is important to note that the scope of your property inspection does not assess the adequacy of the roof
plumbing. Building extensions, particularly those which incorporate complex roof designs, parapet walls,
concealed or box gutters, and veranda additions may not only present gutters which are difficult to access
and maintain but may also increase the load on the existing roof plumbing.
A gutter overflow is generally a maintenance item and the responsibility of the property owner or occupier.
Gutters overflow for a number of reasons. They may be clogged with debris, or the slope (fall) of the
gutter towards the downpipe may be insufficient. Blocked downpipes and drains may also lead to
water overflowing gutters. Guttering overflow may also occur during a heavy downpour because the
large volume of water can't drain away fast enough (roof plumbing is designed to meet local rainfall
conditions based on a 20 year ARI the average or expected interval between events of a given
rainfall intensity being exceeded).
Even a small amount of leaf litter may
cause gutters and downpipes to block
and gutters to overflow during heavy
rainfall, so it important to ensure your
gutters are well maintained and can
overflow away from, rather than into,
the eaves or roof space.
Gutters that overflow into the eaves or
roof space can cause significant
damage
creating
conducive
environments for the development of
timber decay (rot) to both exposed and
concealed timber framing members,
fascias, and other decorative timber
trims, as well as encouraging termite
attack.
Examine and clean your gutters regularly. Dont forget gutters that may be out of sight or more difficult to
access, such as box or concealed fascia gutters, or where a new roofed pergola or building extension butts
up to, or shares a pre-existing gutter. Be careful when placing ladders against gutters too much pressure
can not only damage the surface but also distort or damage fixing brackets causing misalignment and poor
drainage.
Gutters can rust extremely quickly when the protective surface is damaged or worn, especially where
leaves accumulate. Leaves will cause water to pond in your gutters: continual contact with water will
encourage rusting, while the action of the leaf decay may accelerate the rusting still further. A property with
overhanging trees may need its gutters cleared of decomposing leaves every few weeks during autumn

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and winter so foliage pruning is recommended. Additionally, you can wedge mesh into the tops of gutters
or install a proprietary gutter guard to minimise leaf build-up, and permit smoother drainage. While gutter
guards can reduce the need for maintenance, they do not eliminate it entirely. Where brushes or wedged
mesh is used, leaves and twigs can become trapped around the edges. Gutter guards rely on breezes and
rain to flush the leaves off the roof, but they are often not too effective for keeping out twigs, pine needles
or fine wind borne seed pods and pollen which may need to be flushed out with a hose. Refer to the
section on "Roofing and Guttering".
As with roofs, you should check gutters after stormy weather. With tiled roofs you should check to see that
none of the tiles overhanging the gutters have dislodged, creating a gap and blocking the gutter. This is
also a favourite entry point for birds, possums and rats.
Underneath the guttering (the eaves lining) is another popular spot for animal entry. The eaves linings
should be checked regularly for deterioration, because animals can peck and chew their way in very
quickly. The eaves material can of course deteriorate over time but often the decay is due to water leaking
from the roof, or from overflowing or leaking gutters.
Localised rusting of gutters can be remedied by patching, puttying, or painting with bituminous products
from hardware stores, but these are temporary measures.
Masonry Cracking
It is important to note that during prolonged periods
of drought, particularly when these coincide with
water restrictions, the foundation material and soil
around buildings can be exposed to persistent drying
and shrinkage which can cause cracking to the
building. Similarly, excessive over watering, leaking
underground pipes and poor surface drainage
coupled with heavy rainfalls, can lead to rapid
localised swelling of the foundation soils, which can
in turn lead to stress cracking of brickwork. Under
normal seasonal conditions, cracking in brickwork
can often be remedied with proper garden care. For
further information please refer to the section on
"Cracking in Brickwork'".
Exposed timbers - cladding, fascias, pergolas, timber decks etc

Gradually warping weatherboards may be caused simply because of their exposure to the elements, or the
drying and warping of the structural frame. These are not severe problems, and normally contain
themselves within reasonable limits. However, warping weatherboards may also indicate sub-floor failure
and further investigation is recommended to eliminate this as a cause for concern.
Most exterior timbers, including decks and balconies, are susceptible to insect attack and timber decay
(rot). As all protective timber finishes will degrade with exposure to solar radiation (sun) and weather, it is
important to maintain a good protective paint or stain coating on all exposed timberwork, otherwise
deterioration such as splitting and rotting will occur. Constant exposure to damp, moist or humid conditions
(whether these be caused by, for example, leaking or regularly overflowing gutters, abundant vegetation,
persistent shade (which prevents drying) or direct contact with moist soils or garden mulch) provide ideal
conditions for the development of timber rot and timber pest attack.
If your newly-purchased property has a well established garden, be aware that your inspector will not have
been able to carefully inspect parts of the building behind or concealed by the areas of dense foliage,
creepers, pot plants or shade-cloth and the like. Timber rot may be established in parts of the timber that
are not reasonably accessible for a visual inspection deep within joints, concealed behind fixtures or
fittings, or other members (for example, behind downpipes, under roofing) or in the ground. Painted
surfaces can also conceal the development of timber rot. If your inspector has undertaken a visual

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inspection, they will not have been able to dig or poke into crevices and gaps. You should regularly inspect
these areas yourself; you may begin to notice localised and gradual wrinkling of the paintwork or that the
surface begins to give or feels soft and spongy when touched.
Not all timbers are suitable for external use and some can deteriorate rapidly once their durable service life
has expired, although their species will be difficult for even an expert to detect once the timber is painted or
stained.
All structural timbers should be inspected regularly for signs of deterioration and the appropriate treatments
applied as necessary.
Please Note: Preventative maintenance is more cost effective than remedial rectification.
Maintaining Decks and Balconies
Decks and balconies should be assessed regularly, at least once a year, for signs of deterioration or
movement. With concrete balconies, look for signs of spalling; cracking (of either the concrete itself or the
tiles or mortar screed); exposed reinforcement; and rust staining (this may indicate deterioration of the
reinforcement).
With timber framed balconies look for signs of timber rot or fungal growth; splits and cracks; rusting of
fixings and brackets; movement and bounce; and loose or unsteady balustrades.
Timely repairs can prevent more serious defect development and deterioration. Where there is the least
doubt we recommend further investigation by a structural engineer.
Maintaining Outbuildings
Structural maintenance will be the same as for the main building. However, wiring to outbuildings is often
of a lower standard and may have been installed illegally. Wiring to the outbuilding is often buried
underground, hidden from the inspecting architect's view.
Be careful when digging in the garden, or you may hit an unprotected wire. If you are in doubt about the
electrical system, have a licensed electrical contractor check it for you.
Outbuildings are often also built close to or directly on the ground, making them more susceptible to timber
rot or destructive timber pest attack. Regular maintenance is required to modify or eliminate the conditions
conducive to timber pests. For further information please refer to to the section on Termites and Borers.
MAINTENANCE - INSIDE THE BUILDING

Maintaining the Roof Space
Your roof frame and ceiling rafters can warp and deflect over time, but unless the inspector has drawn
attention to a framing defect in the Inspection Report, there is little chance of a serious defect developing in
the short term. However, if the structure has been re-roofed with a material heavier than the original
covering, serious damage can occur unless the roof framing is strengthened.
It is advisable to regularly examine the roof space. By doing this you may notice unusual smells, which
may indicate the intrusion of animals or water. Don't delay in removing intruding animals: they can cause
damage such as stained ceilings and chewed wiring, and their nests or food stores can attract other
vermin. We recommend engaging professional, reputable, and where required by State legislation,
registered, pest controllers who will employ humane and effective trapping methods and provide you with
appropriate maintenance advice to avoid future occurrences.
Ensure insulation is keep well clear of exposed downlights or electrical equipment overheating can be a
fire hazard. Remember loose fill insulation may be disturbed by air or animal movement install
appropriate barriers to keep loose fill insulation clear of fittings. Also ensure your insulation is evenly
spread tradespeople may disturb the insulation when working in the roof space and can neglect to
replace or redistribute it before leaving.


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Maintaining Ceilings and Walls

Most plasterboard and hard plaster (rendered) walls will crack in time, but provided your footings and
foundations are sound, generally all that is required is to patch cracks when re-painting. Recurring cracks
may indicate a structural problem and warrant further investigation.
The plasterboard walls and ceilings in old buildings may eventually bulge, sag or develop persistent
surface crazing (fine surface creases or cracking) as the plaster ages, or deteriorates due to condensation
and roof leaks. When hard plaster walls sound "drummy" or hollow when tapped, the plaster has
unfortunately reached an advanced stage of deterioration where the best solution is replacement.
If your property is brick, check the walls regularly for rising damp, which is caused by a breakdown of the
damp-proof course and compounded by damp external conditions. For further information please refer to
the section on "Treatment of Dampness".
Maintaining Internal Living Conditions
You should aim to maintain a reasonable circulation of air within, to prevent a build up of stale air,
excessive humidity and condensation, all of which can affect your health and cause materials to
deteriorate.
Areas where vapour-producing activities take place, such as cooking, using clothes dryers and showers
should all be well vented externally. Long or persistent periods of stagnant, moist conditions inside your
property will encourage mould growth, which can be hard to completely eradicate once it appears unless
the moist conditions are also eliminated.
If outside vegetation is allowed to encroach on the building, it may also encourage damp, dark, moist
conditions so it should be trimmed back. Mouldy conditions are also caused by sub-floor dampness.
Jamming Windows and Doors
If windows and doors persistently jam, your footings may be defective: depending on the form of your
propertys sub-structure, your stumps may have rotted or your piers may have moved. Jamming is
particularly prevalent in older buildings where structural subsidence is more common.
Subsidence of floors, doors and windows can occur suddenly once footing failure and timber rot reaches a
critical point. Periodic sub-floor examination will help keep an eye on the situation (eg. probing timber
stumps at ground level will reveal their degree of deterioration). If your sub-floor is constructed on
subsiding piers or concrete footings, underpinning may be required. Check sub-floor drainage first as very
wet soil can contribute to subsidence. It is recommended that repair of significant subsidence be
undertaken quickly to minimise secondary damage. For further information please refer to the section on
Re-stumping.
Maintaining Services
Make sure services are in good order and have gas leaks fixed immediately. Fuses which blow with
increasing regularity indicate a fundamental wiring problem and should be attended to immediately. In
older buildings, blowing fuses may indicate a wiring system which has come to the end of its working life.
They may also occur after the replacement of light fittings, or after recent renovations and extensions.
Wiring which was intact when left alone, can disintegrate when touched, or the total load on the system
may have increased beyond its capacity. We strongly recommend upgrading your switchboard if it still
contains ceramic fuses and the installation of RCDs to all existing switchboards.
Residual Current Devices (RCDs) are mandatory in all new residential buildings or new electrical
installation. Some States have made electrical safety upgrades mandatory when selling a .residential
property.
Please Note: We recommend an electrical safety check by a licensed electrical contractor at property
settlement. Do not attempt any re-wiring work yourself. Always contact a licensed electrical contractor.
Many old properties have galvanised iron water pipes which have a limited life expectancy. Cold water
systems in older buildings can deteriorate very rapidly, sometimes rendering the system useless within a

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few months. If cold water pressure drops significantly, it is worthwhile having a plumber replace at least the
main supply pipe.
Hot water systems also have a limited life. Externally located mains pressure units have an anticipated
service life of around 10 years; internal located units may last up to twenty years. In either case, failure
can occur without warning. Thermostatic control valves may require replacement every 5 years or so.
Familiarise yourself with the manufacturers maintenance recommendation, most of which can now be
found on-line over the internet, if you have not retained or have not been provided with a copy of the care
information.
If your property has a disused gravity fed hot water tank in its ceiling void, check that it is empty and has
been disconnected from both the water and electrical supply.
Maintaining Timber Floors
Floors may squeak in time, particularly during dry conditions. Floorboards can easily be "packed" or
chocked with fibre-cement pieces or plastic wedges to reduce movement. Generally this is not a
structural problem - the timbers are simply warping or shrinking as they dry.
Maintaining Wet Areas and Tiled Floors
Ceramic floor and wall tiles rely on well-maintained grouting and edge flashings and sealants to keep
moisture and water off the underlying surfaces. Waterproof membranes laid under the tiles are also
necessary in and around showers and designated wet areas, or under the tiles on external, timber framed,
decks and balconies, although the membranes cannot be detected without removal of the surface tiling.
Cracked or dislodged grouting, and ineffective or defective edge sealants allow water to penetrate to the
substrate and to adjacent surfaces, providing ideal environments for the development of fungal wood rot
and timber pest infestation. Leaking pipes or drains may also provide similar conditions. Left unrepaired,
leaking water can also severely damage particle board structural flooring risking failure. Mop up excess
water, keep areas dry and well ventilated, and attend to deteriorating grout, sealants or leaking pipes
without delay.
Carefully inspect all wet areas, checking for cracked tiling, missing grout, missing sealant and damp
staining to walls, skirtings and flooring around the shower base and shower screen. Water leaks can often
be detected from below floor level if you have access into the sub-floor. Timely repair of even minor
defects is recommended to avoid potentially more serious damage if the defect is left unchecked.
Maintaining the Sub-Floor
It is important to keep the sub-floor free from debris. By removing all debris, you help ensure maximum
sub-floor ventilation, which is vital in controlling sub-floor dampness. Damp sub-floors often make the
building smell musty and mouldy. Black mould may appear on walls, and sometimes white "beards" of
mould may appear in the sub-floor. Timber stumps (where present), and timber bearers or joists will rot
much faster when subjected to mould and damp conditions. Damp sub-floor also provide conditions which
are conducive to destructive timber pest infestation. Clean out sub-floor vents regularly, to prevent these
stagnant conditions occurring. Install additional vents if mouldy smells persist.
Periodically check the ground below the shower recess, and other wet areas, to ensure that the water
seals have not broken down over time. The floor framing timbers may also show water stains close to
these areas. Defective water seals are one of the most common causes of timber rot.
Buildings which have timber stumps as part of their sub-floor structure will eventually be subject to stump
rot. Stumps deteriorate first just below ground level, and the best way to extend their life is to keep the
ground dry. Sloping floors, continually jamming windows and doors, cracking plaster all indicate likely
stump decay. External perimeter stumps may decay faster as the adjacent ground is subject to rain and
garden watering. As a general rule, if more than 30% of stumps are affected, you should replace them all.
Periodically examine the sub-floor for signs of termites. They build mud tunnels under concrete slabs and
up stumps or base walls to get to timber framing members. Again, for both termites and borers (which are
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especially to remove all timber debris which provide a ready food source for destructive timber pests and a
bridge from which they can access framing and flooring timbers.
One sign of borer damage is the gritty sawdust residue they leave behind. A spongy floor is another
indication. For further information please refer to the section on "Termites and Borers".
Please Note: Ask An Architect recommends regular Timber Pest Inspections as part of your property
maintenance program.
Give your Property a Check-Up
Most people give their cars and themselves regular checkups, but tend to leave maintenance of their
property until a problem becomes so obvious that is simply has to be attended to. This approach is not
only bad for the property but also more expensive on the pocket. It is recommended to get an architect to
inspect you property every five years to keep it in tip top condition.


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If a crack appears overnight in your previously intact brick or brick veneer building, don't panic. It is not the
first step in the total disintegration of the whole building.
Most cracks require cosmetic treatment only. The majority are not indications of grave structural damage.
Remedies can be as simple as watering the garden a bit more or less, or just waiting for the season to
change.
However it can be valuable, if only for peace of mind, to be able to recognise and evaluate the type of
cracks. You will then have some logical basis for deciding which method of correction will be appropriate
a lack of knowledge can unfortunately lead to the adoption of unnecessarily expensive treatments.
While cracking is most noticeable in solid brick or brick veneer buildings, timber and panel clad buildings
are also affected by footing failure or differential foundation movement.
An independent assessment should be sought first from Ask An Architect or a structural engineer, prior to
embarking on costly remedial action.
FOOTINGS AND FOUNDATIONS

These terms are commonly confused. In this technical information guide, 'footings' refers to the structure
below the floor level which rest on the soil. 'Foundations' are the soil (eg. sand or clay) or rock material on
which the footings rest.
Whether a building will be crack free or not is primarily dependent on the design of the footings to suit their
foundations and the maintenance of the foundation condition (discussed below). Understanding the likely
type of footings supporting your building and its foundation type may assist you in understanding its typical
cracking behaviour, when to be concerned and the best means of managing or rectifying the situation.
Building structures have not always been designed with the benefit of soil tests and engineers. Until the
th
early 20 Century most buildings were built on stone or brick footings individual blocks or units or
occasionally layers of rubble, which, while able to adequately support the weight of the structure, did not
well tolerate foundation or ground movement.
Mass concrete was used from about the 1920s onwards with the introduction of reinforcement not being
universal until the 1950s. Introducing steel reinforcement into concrete footings allowed optimal
performance under both compression (weight) and tension (movement/stretching) forces. Performance
was further enhanced with the introduction of AS2870 in the late 1980s and the redesign of the typical strip
footing profile from pad (wide and shallow) to beam (narrow and deep). Building on a slab-on-ground
became commonplace around the same period.
Foundation movement will have a greater impact on structures on stone block or brick footings than those
on engineered designed footings of reinforced concrete. This is not to say that older buildings are
structurally unstable, and most will have stood the test of time, but it will explain why cracking is typical;
why these buildings may continue to crack; and why these cracks may continue to open and close over the
life of the building: patching and painting being a temporary fix and a regular part of a routine home
maintenance.


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THE FORM IT TAKES

Cracking can be vertical, horizontal, cogged, stepped
or a combination. The form it takes is sometimes a
clear indication of the problem. For example, a
diagonal crack starting at the corner of a door opening
is sure to have been created by movement in the
footings. It is also informative to watch what the crack
does over various seasons.
What type of foundation material is my property built on and can it move?

How much foundations move depends on the type of rock or soil and how that material is influenced by
changes in moisture, temperature and imposed loads from the structure above.
The movement of the foundations is rarely uniform over the whole of the building site, or under the area of
building and different movement under different parts of the footings creates stresses in the walls resulting
in cracks.
Foundation materials are usually classified as either reactive or non-reactive to changes in their moisture
content.
Reactive soils are typically clay soils, but also include the 'black soil' and 'black earth' found in Queensland,
South Australia and Western New South Wales. All of these are plastic soils, shrinking and swelling rapidly
as their moisture content decreases or increases.
Changes in the soil moisture content can cause deformation (a change in volume), particularly in modern
buildings with concrete slab floors. For example, reactive clays may swell and retain moisture when
saturated, and shrink and collapse when water is removed from them by excessive evaporation during
seasonal dry periods or periods of drought, or by the action of trees.
Non-reactive soils are such soils as rock, gravel, shale, phyllite or sand, whose volume does not increase
or decrease with changes in the moisture content.
The Building or Engineers Department of your local Council, Shire or Building Authority should be able to
provide information for you on the likely type of soil beneath your property however a geotechnical
investigation will always be necessary to determine the foundation characteristics of a particular site. This
information can be useful in determining the required remedial action, as cracking caused by drying out of
normal reactive soils can often be simply remedied, whereas owners of properties built on very reactive
soils or on filled land which has subsided permanently, may have to pursue more elaborate solutions such
as underpinning.
Different types of soil move, but what causes them to move? What are the remedies?
1. Moisture Movement in Reactive Soils
Experts suggest that changes in the water content of clay-type soils cause up to 90% of all cracking
problems in low rise buildings. So what factors affect the water content in the soil?
(a) Migration of Moisture
The movement of moisture beneath a building can produce the phenomenon known as long term dome
and saucer effect.
The dome effect is a slow heaving of the soil caused by movement of moisture from the perimeter of the
building to its centre, and the saucer effect is moisture moving in the opposite direction, from the centre
towards the perimeter. Extended periods of severe drought are likely to result in perimeter drying and the
doming effect, while rehydration once the drought has broken, or during periods of extreme and persistent
wet, are likely to result in the reverse saucer effect. Unfortunately both actions may cause cracking.


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The dome effect causes the walls to tilt outwards and the restraining influence of the roof produces
horizontal cracks on the outside wall. These will be wider on the outside surface rather than the inner.
The long term saucer effect causes the external walls to tilt inwards and partition walls to sag. Cracking
may be similar to that seen with the dome effect but the width of the cracks will be greater on the internal
surface of the walls.
The most economical solution, and one which gives good results where damage is not too severe, is to
improve the sub-floor ventilation so that the atmospheric conditions under the floor and those outside are
not too different.
It is worthwhile understanding that while impermeable paths or paving around a building can mitigate
seasonal drying and saturation, after the cessation of extended periods of either condition they can also
slow down the soils return to its normal condition and reduce the benefits of supplementary perimeter
watering.
(b) Water extracted by Trees and Shrubs
The greatest damage occurs when trees are planted close
to the building after construction.
Contrary to popular belief, it is rarely the growth or uplift of
the tap roots of big trees which disturb the foundations.
The damage is done by the plant roots extracting
considerable quantities of moisture from the soil, which
reduces the volume of the soil, causing footings to subside
in that area and cracks in the masonry to appear.
This phenomenon is known as tree drying settlement. The
way it works is the tree takes water from the soil by a
system of fine hair-like roots. The moisture is then
transported to the trunk of the tree via the main tap roots.
The astonishing fact is that, depending on the type and
age of the tree, this fine root system can extend over
several hundred metres, and the amount of water
transpired daily by a tree can be several hundred litres.
A more commonly accepted formula is that a tree's root system will extend for a horizontal distance equal
to its height. In a line of trees, where competition for water exists, the horizontal root spread is one and half
times the tree height.
Of course, if the water available in the soil is sufficient to meet the tree's transpiration rate, no damage will
occur. But a dry season, even in a temperate zone, can alter this balance.


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Extended drought periods can significantly increase any effect. It is important to note that during prolonged
periods of drought, particularly when these coincide with water restrictions, the foundation material around
buildings can be exposed to persistent drying and shrinkage which may further exacerbate the potential for
cracking.
It is also important to remember that tree roots do not recognise a property's boundaries; trees on your
neighbours' properties will seek out moisture from every possible direction, just as your trees' roots may
trespass on your neighbours'. Successful remedial action may require the fostering of good neighbourly
relations.
The diagram at left shows the typical damage resulting from a large
tree having been planted too close to the footings at a corner of a
brick building the tree has extracted the moisture from around and
under the corner, resulting in subsidence. A tree root barrier would
have restricted the spread of the roots and therefore the
consequential water extraction form the soil under the footings.
Planting Trees
When planning to plant trees, it is important to also consider the strength of the footings under the building.
For example, an old brick building with stone footings on a clay foundation offers little resistance to drying
settlement, whereas a well designed concrete slab may tolerate even a heavily planted garden. Knowing
your building's footing type is important. As a rule of thumb, trees should be planted at a distance from the
building equivalent to their mature height, although trees may be planted closer and culled as they grow as
part of on-going garden maintenance.
Removing Trees
Well established trees are an asset to most properties. It is important to understand their growth pattern,
particularly when moving into a new property, this way through careful and informed tree management and
watering routines, you may be able to avoid the need for outright removal.
It is also important to understand that by removing a large well established tree, you may also be
significantly altering the ground conditions, as the moisture levels adjust and the ground settles over time
around the void left by the now-removed tree and its decaying tree roots, which can in turn result in further
cracking, or cracking in other parts of the property.
We recommend seeking expert advice before arranging for the removal of mature trees.
Appropriate Tree Selection
The following is a list of common trees and plants of which to be wary. The list is not meant to be totally
comprehensive but can be taken as a general guide. Further information may be available from your local
building authority or plant nursery.
(Please Note: Height of tree and spread of roots can vary dramatically from region to region depending on
climate, soil type, rainfall, etc.

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Common Name
African tulip tree
Athel tree
Bamboos
Black bean
Black locust/ False acacia
Bougainvilleas
Brush box
Bunya
Camphor laurel
Cedars
Claret ash
Coral trees
Cypress
Date palms
Desert ash
Elms
English ash
Figs
Flame tree
Gum tree (most species)
Hackberry
Hollies
Hoop pine
Jacaranda
Kanuka box
Magnolias
Mango
Norfolk Island Pine
Oaks
Pampas grass
Pepper tree
Pines
Planes
Poinciana
Poplars
Privets
Pyramid tree
Rhus trees
Sheoaks
Smooth barked apple
Southern silky oak
Swamp cypress
Tipuana
Umbrella tree
Willows
Botanical Name
Spathodea campanulata
Tamaris aphylla
Phyllastachus species
Castanospermum australe
Robinia pseudoacacia
Bougainvillea species
Tristania conferta
Araucaria species
Cinnamonum camphora
Cedrus species
Fraxinus "Raywood"
Erythrina species
Cupressus species
Phoenix species
Fraxinus oxycarpa
Ulmus species
Fraxinus excelsior
Ficus species
Brachychiton acerifolium
Eucalyptus species
Celtis species
Ilex species
Araucaria species
Jacaranda mimosaepholia
Tristaniopsis laurina
Magnolia species
Mangifera indica
Araucaria species
Quercus species
Cortaderia selloana
Schinus molle
Pinus species
Platanus species
Delonix regia
Populus species
Ligustrum species
Lagunaria patersonia
Rhus species
Casuarina species
Angophora costata
Grevillea robusta
Taxodium distichum
Tipuana tipu
Schefflera actinophylla
Salix Species


Mature Height (m)

6-15
Up to 6
Variable
9-18
9-15
Variable
10-40
30-60
6-15
Variable
9-15
Up to 24
Variable
Variable
9-15
Up to 30
Up to 20
Up to 30
6-30
Up to 60
Up to 24
Up to 12
30-60
5-12
5-15
Variable
10-18
30-60
Up to 20
2.5-3.5
6-15
Up to 30
15-36
Variable
Up to 30
Up to 8
6-12
Variable
12-30
15-24
15-30
Up to 30
10-20
Up to 8
9-15
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< 18 >
(c) Damage caused by Solar Radiation

While drying out of soil by trees is one of the most common reasons for cracking in brickwork, some clays
are also very susceptible to drying out by direct solar radiation, eg. the sun on the ground.
The northern facing wall is the most likely to be affected and stepped diagonal cracking is the most
common symptom, usually occurring at the north east and north west corner of the building. Again
underpinning should be considered only as a last resort and more simple remedies tried first.
Some Remedies
Now the good news: if you take moisture out of clay soils, you can put it back.
Mulching of garden beds around the building will cut down loss of moisture by solar radiation and
evaporation. Another measure is to provide an impermeable ground cover around the building together
with a vertical impermeable barrier or border which should preferably be taken down to a depth where the
moisture content of the soil is constant, approximately 300mm to 600mm.
In one case seen by our inspectors, a row of large trees within 3 metres of a house had, during a
prolonged dry spell, caused substantial cracking and distortion of the wall nearest to them. The trees were
removed and the area flooded with water. Within two months the clay soil had absorbed the water and
heaved some 35mm to the original position, closing nearly all the gaps completely.
So, if some cracks appear in your building for the first time during a dry season, the best thing is to water
the soil close to the building and do nothing more. Wait until after the next wet season and see if they close
up by themselves. Try and keep the soil near any large trees constantly moist and don't be tempted to fill
the cracks with anything rigid, which will prevent them closing naturally, as more cracking could develop in
response elsewhere.
If cracks are more serious, for example large enough to insert one or more fingers, the tree, shrub or root
system responsible for the damage should be removed. Pruning is of short term value only. Local flooding
of the area will accelerate the heave recovery of the foundations.
Alternatives to cutting down the trees are root barriers made from concrete or other impermeable
materials, such as fibre cement sheet wrapped in plastic, inserted between the tree and the affected
footing, to a depth greater than the surface root system of the appropriate tree.
Another remedial system aimed at retaining the trees, is to drill holes into the soil with an auger
approximately 1.5 metres deep and close to the wall which has subsided and cracked. Water is then
poured into these holes and kept topped up to a constant level to introduce moisture back to the soil.
Copper sulphate or other root suppressant chemicals are added to the water to repel the approach of the
trees roots.
In conjunction with this, holes are drilled into the soil on the side of the tree away from the building. These
holes are then filled with water and nutrients which will attract tree roots in their general direction.
This system does require maintenance in keeping the
holes filled with water (although this could be
accomplished with an automatic irrigation system)
and replenishing supplies of repellent chemicals and
nutrients.
Finally, we come to the remedy known as
underpinning, an expensive operation and only to be
undertaken if all else fails. Underpinning can mean
two things, depending on where the failure has
occurred: first, the removal of soil below an existing
footing and its replacement with (usually) concrete,
and the second, if the footing sub-wall (the section of
wall below floor level) is badly damaged, is the
removal of the lower defective part of the wall and its
replacement with new masonry.


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Although underpinning is not a complicated operation, it is slow and awkward and must be done properly
to be effective. The new footing system must be designed properly to start with, if future problems are to
be avoided. It would be wise to ask to see the Engineers drawings of any proposal.
Underpinning, particularly of slab-on-ground construction, can be achieved by the use of proprietary
systems that inject expanding structural resins beneath the subsided slab or footing via small bore drill
holes to lift and re-level buildings. Care must be taken to reinstate any waterproof membranes that may be
disturbed during this process.
It would also be wise to obtain several quotations from firms specialising in underpinning or levelling. Ask
to see successfully completed jobs and make sure a guarantee will be forthcoming. It is essential that a
building permit from a building surveyor be obtained for any underpinning work.
2. Uneven Settlement of Foundations
Where a particularly heavy load is placed on the foundation such as a large column, movement may occur
as moisture is squeezed out of the soil or the soil readjusts itself. This consolidation will stop when the soil
has finally compacted enough to support the load.
Cracks which may result from movement during compaction can be measured to see if and when the
movement has ceased. Then a decision can be made as to whether the cracks may simply be patched up
or if the size of the existing footing needs to be increased to support the load i.e. underpinning.
3. Sliding Surface Layers
Overloading can also cause shear failure in the soil. The soil can slip in a downward, sidewards and
upward movement allowing the footings to settle as a result.
A typical example may be caused by an excavation on an adjacent site to a greater depth than the footing,
thus robbing it of lateral support and causing it to tilt towards the hole.
Flooding or diversion of natural drainage channels beneath the footing can produce shear failure as some
soils, especially clay, lose cohesion when too much water is added to them. The cracks occurring will
more often be vertical than diagonal.
The movement can not only cause damage to service pipes and drains, but damaged pipes and drains
may exacerbate the situation, resulting in greater building and service network damage. The in-ground
service pipes should be carefully checked for damage. This check should also cover existing drains, down
pipes and gutters. Rectifying the source of the failure is important before rectifying building cracks.
4. Building on Variable Foundations
Finding part-rock, part-shale, or part-clay on a flat site is possible
but more probable on a sloping site where part of the slope has
been cut into and the material cut out has been used as fill to
extend the horizontal surface for the building.
The fill can compress more readily than in-situ material and
uneven settlement can 'bend' the building at the point where the
two materials meet. The resulting cracks will be vertical, wider at
the top than at the bottom.
The remedy may have to be underpinning or some comparable
method to spread the load more evenly. Structures built on fill
only will be subject to settlement which will frequently be uneven.
If the fill is loose, but not uniformly so over the site, the cracking
may be extensive and unpredictable. Loose but uniform fill can
produce either stepped or vertical cracks. Pier and beam footings
can be used to underpin the building or, if the fill is reasonably
compact, widening existing strip footings may be sufficient.


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Either solution requires design by an engineer and implementation by a

reputable underpinning contractor.
5. Additions to Buildings
Building an addition onto an established structure can impose a load
intensity on the soil different to that which was there prior to the building
works and so cause differential settlement. Even if the loading intensities
are similar, the difference in time between when the two settlements
occurred can be enough to create cracks.
This may typically result in vertical or cogged cracking occurring near
where the new work keys into the old. Cracking between old and new
sections can also occur as the new framing timbers naturally shrink and
settle during their first few years in service. It is therefore often difficult to
conclusively identify the cause of some types of cracking.
Monitoring and measuring the crack to assess when the new settlement is complete and then patching the
crack is probably the best method. Again underpinning the new work should only be contemplated in an
extreme case.
6. Excessive Vibration
Damage caused by vibration from earth tremors, heavy traffic or pile driving is fairly rare, however if the
vibration is great enough to actually cause the foundation to move, cracking can occur. In this case a rock
foundation is not the best as it can easily transmit vibrations to the building.
The cracks show up irregularly and if the source of the vibration can't be removed, a possible remedy is
the installation of anti-vibration mats beneath the footings this is difficult to fit retrospectively but is
something to consider if building near a known source of constant vibration. If the source of the vibration is
some machine operated within the building, these mats could be placed between the machine and the
floor.
CRACKING IN SHEET CLADDING OR LINING MATERIAL
Where sheet products are used to either clad the building externally (for example cement sheet,
polystyrene sandwich panels) or line the building internal (typically plasterboard) building movement and
settlement may also result in cracking. Typically the movement cracks manifest as:
vertical or horizontal cracking at the joints between the sheets;
diagonal cracking radiating from the corner of windows or door frames;
where two surfaces meet, for instances at corners, around the ceiling or wall edge of cornices or
similar trims;
where two different materials meet or abut for example, timber architrave to plasterboard wall,
cement sheet to decorative mosaic stone panel;
where cladding or lining is fixed to different framing materials which react differentially to changes
temperature and moisture conditions.
Fine hairline and minor cracking is usually only an aesthetic concern, and can often be managed during
cyclic painting or maintenance cycles. In older buildings, such movement is likely to be related to seasonal
movement as with brickwork cracking discussed above. Where cracking is more severe, develops
dramatically further professional advice should be sought.


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OTHER CAUSES OF CRACKING

All the above information relates to cracking associated with movement of the foundations caused in the
most part by drying out of the soil, or the changes due to imposed building load.
Statistics weve compiled over time show that cracking from other causes is relatively rare, but can occur
when various elements of the building itself move, eg. movement of steel frames with brick infill panels or
the shrinking of concrete elements. Cracking can also be due to the expansion or shrinkage of the clay
brickwork itself.
A word of warning at this point about organisations which offer cure-alls for cracking. We have found that
some of these firms exaggerate the dangers involved with some small cracks and recommend expensive
patent treatments or unnecessary underpinning where the cracks might simply respond to a bit of water
added to the soil.
Remember that a company offering a particular treatment will probably be biased in favour of using it
regardless.
A non-involved, independent, experienced professional such as a structural engineer or architect should
be consulted first. They won't be inclined to overlook the more humble remedies, while recommending
further professional investigation, or specific treatments where appropriate.
SOME GENERAL MAINTENANCE TIPS
Don't plant trees or allow them to exist closer to a building than their expected mature height, unless
their roots are discouraged or contained in some way, as in the systems described.
Keep the garden and lawns around the building evenly damp throughout the drier months. Don't
neglect one side of the building just because nothing much grows in the area.
Regularly check existing drains, down-pipes, guttering and service piping to ensure no leakages
occur over the life of the building.
WHEN TO BE CONCERNED
As there are many causes for cracking in buildings, it is often difficult to know when, or even if, the situation
warrants concern, further investigation or rectification.
Naturally, as the footings are below ground, your inspector cannot confirm their type or condition and will
have no previous knowledge of the property, so will only be able to identified areas of cracking that may be
of concern at the time of the inspection. The situation may change markedly during the contract settlement
period (when the vendor may be less than diligent in maintaining the garden and soil conditions), and
during your early occupation of the property (when such maintenance may not be high on your priority list).
Cracks should be monitored over a period of at least 3 seasons to assess whether the gap opens (during
the dry periods) and closes (during the wet period) seasonal movement generally indicates a footing
movement which can often be managed as outlined above. The speed at which the crack expands and its
width can also help in understanding the cause and how to best manage it. The following table, based on
Appendix C AS2870 Residential Slabs and Footings, classifies the level of damage to walls and concrete
floors caused by the movement of slabs and footings.


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Cracking in brickwork
In accordance with AS2870 - Residential slabs and footings - Construction, Appendix C1:
Classification of damage with reference to walls, evident cracking is classified within the following
categories.
Crack
Category
Crack Width
Action
width less than 0.1mm Hairline cracks which do not need repair
width less than 1mm
Fine cracks which do not need repair.
width less than 5mm
Noticeable cracks which can be readily filled.
width between 5mm

and 15mm
Cracks are repairable. Weather tightness may be impaired and

repairs may require the replacement of small sections of wall.
width greater
15mm
Extensive repairs required to walls and possibly to adjacent

window and doorframes, lintels, beams and service pipes.
than
Where the cracking occurs in easily repaired plasterboard or similar clad-framed partitions, the crack
width limits may be increased by 50% for each damage category.
Not all cracks will require repair, particularly if weather tightness is not affected. Consideration should
be given to possible recurrence and the appearance of the finished result. It is likely to be difficult to
match the colour and texture of aged and weathered mortar in face brickwork and a satisfactory repair
may only be achievable if the whole surface is painted or rendered.
If you think your property needs underpinning, levelling or other building work carried out, make sure you
first have an independent assessment undertaken by an architect or engineer. Ask An Architect can help
you here with an inspection and recommendation. A lack of knowledge can lead to the adoption of
unnecessarily expensive treatments which may be suggested by contractors or companies biased in
favour of using their own patented and profitable 'cures'.
Underpinning works will require a geotechnical (soil) test report, engineering computations and the
consequential design. You should then obtain at least three quotations based on a professionally
documented scope of works and specification, and make sure you have a firm written contract with the
company and appropriate permits if required.


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1 of 4
Re-stumping, also known as re-blocking, is a multi-million dollar business in Australia and unfortunately
very few people are aware of the many potential pitfalls in this trade.
In some States, timber floored buildings more than 50 years old will mostly have their floors
supported on timber stumps. The life expectancy of these stumps can vary from 20 to more than 80
years depending on the type of timber, soil conditions and external influences such as surface
drainage and insect attack.
In the course of its inspections, we have found that up to 30% of timber stumped properties investigated
needed immediate partially or complete re-stumping.
CHECKING YOUR STUMPS
Before undertaking renovation work on older buildings, it is essential to check the condition of the stumps.
Many people have watched in dismay as newly completed alterations have been virtually destroyed as the
structure subsides.
In brick buidings, where the bearers are generally supported on brick piers at the walls, rotten stumps will
cause a 'trampoline' effect in the centre of rooms. Contrary to popular belief, the condition of stumps in
weatherboard buildings cannot be definitively established by jumping on the floors. If the stumps have
rotted evenly, the floors may appear firm; however they will almost always slope away from brick fireplaces. Other symptoms are crooked door and window frames.
It should be remembered that these symptoms are often only evident after the stumps have failed
completely. A property may appear quite sound during a visual inspection, but could start to sink shortly
afterwards if the stumps have just reached failure point.
Stumps deteriorate most quickly in wet conditions and generally the worst stumps are usually around the
perimeter and those with the highest and most prominent water marks. The condition of stumps can be
ascertained by scratching away 50mm to 100mm of soil from the base of the worst stump to check its
condition below the ground.
If only a few appear faulty, individual replacement may be the best solution. However, if more than 20% to
30% of stumps show serious deterioration, total re-stumping should be considered.
Bulky sub-floor heating or air-conditioning ducts can often hamper proper investigation of stumps and
supporting walls. Walls and stumps are sometimes carelessly removed when ducts are installed, without it
being immediately obvious, leading to later structural problems. If you are contemplating installing sub-floor
central heating or cooling, the possibility of this happening to you should be considered.
RENOVATING
While your stumps may be serviceable and not in need of immediate replacement, if you are
contemplating renovation, and the existing building is supported on ageing timber stumps, it may be
prudent to include the cost of restumping the whole of the property in your initial renovation budget.
The stumps should then be independently assessed prior to the renovation works, as restumping at a later
date will inevitably cause cracking of wall and ceiling linings and possibly affect joinery, which may prove
even more costly to rectify if the works are undertaken after a renovation is completed.


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< 25 >
SELECTION OF STUMPS - VICTORIA

The first decision to make is to choose the
most suitable type of new stumps. Rotresistant timber stumps, like Victorian red gum
are still quite commonly used. Their advantage
is that they are generally cheaper than
concrete, and although they have the
disadvantage of limited life expectancy, this
will not necessarily be a concern if you intend
to sell within 20 years. Perhaps the biggest
disadvantage is that timber stumps cannot be
as firmly secured to the bearers as concrete
stumps so that re-levelling may not be quite as
accurate.
ABOVE: First Stage of Re-stumping If sub-floor access is

limited it may be necessary to remove several floor boards to
gain access to the stumps.
Cyprus pine is often selected for its termite

resistant qualities, however, it is not termiteproof and care must also be taken to ensure
that the environmental conditions which are
conducive to termite attack, such as damp
soils, poor drainage and ventilation and other
timbers in contact with the soil, have been
eliminated or are actively managed.
Concrete stumps are available in several types. The concrete stump with the most positive form of
connection is the one with a 10mm diameter threaded rod at the top secured with a poured concrete pad
footing. The threaded rod allows the stump to be bolted to the floor frame preventing both upward and
downward movement. The stump is commonly supported on a concrete sole plate or pad, which will
provide protection against long term footing settlement.
A further advantage is that by tightening the nut after the concrete pad has set, and by partially cutting the
bowed bearers at their high points, high spots in the floor can be pulled down.
Concrete stumps will last indefinitely except in extremely damp conditions where the metal reinforcement
in the stump rusts and expands, causing weakness.
SELECTION OF STUMPS - QUEENSLAND
It was once common for Queensland stumps to be made of 300mm diameter ironbark or similar rotresistant timber. Now CCA (copper chrome arsenate) treated pine, or concrete stumps are used.
The most positive form of connection to the bearer is a bracket fixed to the stump by a coach screw or bolt.
The other end of the bracket is anchored to the bearer by a threaded end and nut. In cases where the
ground is unstable (soft), a concrete footing is sometimes poured separately.
Because of high wind stresses, anchor bolts are required at each corner of a Queensland house, around
the perimeter every four metres and under bracing walls. These bolts may also be required in high wind
areas in other States.
SELECTING THE RIGHT CONTRACTOR
Having chosen the most appropriate stumping system, extreme care should be taken in selecting a reliable
and experienced contractor. The contractor should have enough hydraulic jacks to lift the building in one or
two sections.
Generally one jack is required for each stump and there are about 80 stumps in an average 150 sq. metre
(16 square) timber clad property - less for other types like brick veneer (approx. 60). If too few jacks are
used, the building will need to be lifted in several sections, which will cause severe and costly damage to
internal plaster-work and framing.


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In choosing the contractor, the following points

should be made clear when obtaining quotes. These
points should also form the basis of a contract
between the client and contractor:
The type of stumps (and pads, if appropriate) to
be used;
The spacing of stumps;
That on completion the floors will be brought
reasonably back to level, say within 10mm;
That the work will be in accordance with the
relevant building regulations;
That the appropriate building permit or approval
will be obtained;
That required insurances are in place
protecting your property against damage while
the works are being undertaken is paramount;
The agreed cost;
The start and expected completion date; and
That if floorboards must be removed, to what
condition the floor will be reinstated and whose
responsibility it is to remove and replace
coverings.
ABOVE: The Floor After Re-Stumping - Both concrete

and timber stumps.
When comparing quotations from several contractors, ensure that they all include the same items. The
lowest price may only be indicative of a lesser number or poor choice of stumps, which may spell disaster
in the long term.
After receiving the quotes, check the bona fides of the contractors by asking them to give you the names
and telephone numbers of one or two people for whom they have recently done work. Check that these
people are happy with the work, and you may even ring the relevant Building Surveyor to make sure that
they too were satisfied with the job.
After the work has commenced, it is essential that it be supervised carefully. The most common faults are:
Floors not properly re-levelled. This should be thoroughly checked with a spirit level, or preferably,
an electronic level;
Stumps not being securely fixed to bearers, (this may eventually result in a noisy floor);
Stumps not positioned directly underneath the joining of two bearers;
Stumps not centrally located over pads, where pads are used;
Failure to provide ant caps between stumps and bearers.
When new stumps have been installed and the jacks removed, the holes should be back filled with wellcompacted earth.
It is not always possible to obtain a perfectly level floor after restumping. With older buildings, natural
settlement as well as stump deterioration may have been occurring over decades. Such settlement is
rarely evenly distributed throughout the building. Your contractor may be unable to accurately re-level
without creating obvious discrepancies with the level of built-in joinery, kitchen and bathroom cabinets,
fitting and fixtures. Often a compromise is necessary to avoid the need for extensive rectification of existing
fit-out or replacement. However, it is important that your contractor informs you of the likely outcome and
that the parameters of their work are included in your contract to avoid disappointment.
The final payment to the contractor should be made only after all work has been completed according to
the contract and has been found to be satisfactory.
Remember, the best way of avoiding expensive problems is to be aware of them before you undertake
repairs and renovations. We have carried out thousands of property inspections for property owners and
prospective buyers, to help you make a realistic appraisal of your property before renovation or repairing.


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(NSW Nominated Architect C. Townsend Reg. No. 8676)_RGTS_TSBK_Jun14_800V1
1 of 7
We all recognise the importance of having a "roof over our heads". Where defects appear in this most
important of structures, we immediately become concerned.
Minor roofing faults can cause water damage and potentially serious structural damage if not rectified.
If your inspector was unable to gain access to the roof during their inspection, it would be prudent to
have the roof assessed by a roofing contractor with the appropriate access equipment. Once it has
been assessed and any necessary repairs undertaken, you should carry out your own regular
maintenance checks, especially after high winds and storms.
Where your inspector has noted restricted inspection access to your roof and / or guttering, it is
probable that you too will find access difficult.
Do not access your roof unless it is safe to do so and fall prevention measures are in place. If in
doubt, call in a tradesman with appropriate expertise and equipment.
Be mindful that working or walking on any roof, be it as part of regular maintenance or for the
installation of equipment or appliances, can cause damage which may affect the integrity of the
roofing material.
You can save time, effort and money by becoming well informed. Our technical guide can help you
diagnose and effect the most appropriate cures.
DETECTION OF ROOF LEAKS

Evidence of water penetration can be all too easy to observe; stains on the ceiling for example.
However, discovering the source of the leaks can be more problematic. Water can travel quite lengthy
distances along framing members before finding an entry point into the spaces below. Roof cladding,
flashing condition, roof linings and insulation may hinder detection.
The safest way to examine the roof is by viewing the roofspace from the ceiling access hole. Climbing
into the roof space can be safely undertaken where access ways have been laid between framing
otherwise there is the danger of damaging or falling through the ceiling. If it isn't raining and where the
roof space is unlined, newly dislodged or cracked tiles will permit increased light to filter through, and
the timber frame may show white powder of mineral salt deposits or dark water stains which can be
traced back up to cracked tiles, loose pointing, bedding, flashings or sealant (although brown stains
sometimes have nothing to do with the roof leaking).
If you are in the roofspace during the day, by simply turning off your torch, holes or rust decay in
metal roofs will show up as bright pinpoints in the contrasting gloom.


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ROOF REPAIR
Tiles
First, the good news: tiles rarely need repair.
The argument that "because a tile absorbs
water it needs to be replaced" is not valid, since
all tiles absorb water. It is even normal for the
underside of the tile to be damp, though if it
drips water of course you have a problem. In
such a case it is most likely that the tile is
cracked, or, as with cement tiles, it may indicate
that water has irreversibly leached the cement
binder, reducing the tile strength and leaving it
vulnerable to cracking from even unlikely
sources such as possum traffic or dropping
branches. Damaged individual tiles should be
replaced with care.
Ageing tiles become more brittle, so the older
they are the more likely you'll crack them if you
walk on them. If you have to walk on the roof,
tread where one tile overlaps the other (the tile
"nose") as this is the strongest point.
Often minor leaks in tiled roofs occur through
mortar cracking away from ridge or capping tiles
or mortar joins near valley gutters etc. A simple
remedy is to plug the (often hairline) cracks with
a suitable silicone product. Preferably seal the
cracks from the roofspace, to minimise
deterioration of the sealant product, and to
avoid having to climb on the roof. Significant
roof leaking may demand removal and rebedding of all the capping or other tiles in new
mortar. Minor mortar damage can escalate
rapidly under storm conditions, particularly with
high speed, directional, wind-blown rain.
Slipped tiles most often occur when fixings deteriorate or mortar joins break down. Such tiles need to
be re-bedded in new mortar or re-fixed by re-nailing or renewing the ties. Edge tiles which slip into a
gutter may often be simply repositioned. More recently laid tiles are often laid without roof ties or clips,
relying on the profile of the tile to remain in position this in turn makes it easier to lay and easier to
repair but may lead to a greater risk of slippage under storm conditions or when the roof surface is
accessed. Slipped tiles can be an ideal entry point for vermin.
Metal Roofs
It is possible to insert "slips" of new corrugated iron between the overlaps of corroded metal sheets,
this being a common deterioration site, as a temporary measure. These "slips" need to match the
profile of the existing corrugations. This repair technique is especially common in Queensland.
Silicone sealant and paint can sometimes extend the life of a partly decayed metal roof, otherwise
replacement will be your best option.
Care must be taken when accessing a metal deck roof. Although you cannot crack the surface, you
can damage or dent it. While zinc and zinc aluminium alloy sheet products have self healing
properties which protect the exposed cut edges and surface against minor scratches, older metal
roofs may rust quickly once their protective coating is scratched or abraded, and particularly where
water is allowed to pond, such as in a dented or depressed area.
If replacing an area of flat (low pitched) roofing, select a profile suitable for the slope: using an
inappropriate profile can lead to roof leakage.

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ROOF SAGGING
The other main concern with roofs is sagging. A roof has to sag noticeably before any serious framing
problem exists. When significant sagging occurs, tiled roofs will deflect, admitting windblown water.
You may decide, before this stage, that the appearance of the roof is unsatisfactory, and replace it for
this reason alone.
A sag may occur where the framing has deteriorated due to age, or when lightweight roofing
materials, like corrugated iron or slate, have been replaced with heavier materials, like concrete or
terracotta tiles. The roof framing should have been reinforced during the change-over, but often this is
not done. Sagging can also be caused by purlins incorrectly affixed to the structural frame. Purlins
support the roof frame and should be attached to the tops of walls, not to the ceiling joists which will
bow under such weight. Weakening and sometimes sagging of the roof frame can also be caused by
tradesmen who have cut too deeply into rafters to make way for wiring, pipes, ductwork and vents.
The above structural defects can lead to costly repairs and should be professionally assessed before
they are rectified.
ROOF "GROWTHS"
Some property owners prefer not to have greenish lichen or dark mould on their roofs, while others
think lichen is attractive. People in South Australia have been known to "seed" their roofs with spores
to give them character. Roof growths do not damage your roof. Furthermore they would be unlikely to
make any significant difference to water absorption through the tile, even though they obviously will
hold more water against the tile for a longer period.
Moulds and lichens can be removed, but be careful with the method selected. Some preparations are
highly corrosive and may cause significant damage to your guttering and flashings. Seek expert
advice before proceeding and always ensure you have fall prevention systems in place before
working at heights. Be warned that whilst cleaning the tiles you risk cracking some, possibly causing
leaks. This may also occur if employing others to clean or rejuvenate the roof.
ROOF "REJUVENATION" (TILES)
You might consider repainting the roof for cosmetic/resale purposes, but there is no substance in the
claim that this "waterproofs" or extends the life of the roof. A roofs waterproofness comes from its
ability to shed water quickly think thatched or timber shingled roofs.
Loss of the glaze on a tile does not make it significantly more porous. A tile which has lost its glaze
can only absorb roughly 5% more water than a glazed tile. This extra weight of water is unlikely to add
significantly more stress to the roof frame.
Repainting or cleaning may have the reverse effect to waterproofing if tiles are cracked in the
process. Removing old mortar and re-bedding ridge tiles in new mortar will, however, extend the life
of a roof which is leaking from these locations.
Cleaning, painting and re-capping tiles are done in whole or part by roof "rejuvenators". They clean
growths off roofs with high-pressure water sprays and they may sometimes apply a fungicide paint or
coating to inhibit regrowth (similar kind of sprayers can be obtain from hire companies). However their
high pressure sprays can sometimes blast holes in your gutters and valley flashings if they are
already in the process of rusting out, or exacerbate cracking in already fragile tiles, while further tile
damage may occur if you or the tradesman have to physically access the roof. It would be advisable
to obtain a written statement from roof rejuvenators as to their obligation to replace tiles cracked
whilst "rejuvenating" as well as the warranties of the products used. Most, if not all exterior paints are
not designed for roof application. Some companies offer guarantees on other aspects of the job.
However, you should investigate the company behind the guarantee, as some have been known to
go out of business before the expiration of the guarantee period.
Since rejuvenating a roof can cost in excess of two thirds that of a new roof which will be more
resilient, you should carefully consider the benefits of rejuvenation versus re-roofing.


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REPLACING ONE ROOFING MATERIAL WITH ANOTHER

If considering total tile roof replacement be aware that your existing roof has likely settled over time.
While this is unlikely to have reduced the integrity of the framing, it may be difficult to achieve a
perfectly level or even result without replacing the roof framing as well. To avoid disappointment,
select a replacement tile that will camouflage rather than reveal any irregularities for example a
variegated colour, rather than flat tone; a high profile, rather than flat one.
However, we have found, in the course of thousands of property inspections, that the biggest single
cause of framing failure is the replacement of a lightweight roofing material, for example sheet metal
with a heavy one, for example tiles. The extra weight stresses the roof frame and requires extra
rafters and supporting framework. A roof which has bowed under such circumstances will be difficult
to straighten up with supporting props, as the additional timbers will simply hold the roof in the current
deformed position. In some States, building approval is necessary before new roofing materials can
be substituted, reducing the incidence of this defect.
WHAT ABOUT A ROOM IN THE ROOF?
Before re-roofing, and especially if you are re-framing, you could consider the possibility of creating a
usable attic space.
Ask An Architect can offer advice if you feel you need expert guidance. On the question of costs, an
upstairs renovation compares well with extending out, provided that the building does not require too
many structural modifications to cope with the added weight and repositioning of new framing timbers
or steelwork, notwithstanding the ground floor space lost to the interconnecting stairs. Roofs with a
steeper pitch stand to gain more space, incorporating practical design features such as skylights or
skywindows.
RE-ROOFING - CHOICE OF MATERIALS

Note: Whatever roofing material is selected, check with the supplier that it fully complies with the
appropriate Australian Standards.
Metal Roofing
Metal roofing is more common nowadays than in past decades, particularly with the improved
performance of the surface coatings and extended range of colours and profile. Its advantages,
compared to tiles, are design flexibility and ease of installation. Metal roofing is the best option when
the pitch (slope) of the roof is less than fifteen degrees from horizontal.
The disadvantages of metal roofing are the greater susceptibility to weathering, industrial pollution,
and localised surface corrosion. It can also be noisier in the rain than tiles, but to some people that is
an attraction rather than a distraction. An insulating blanket fixed to the underside of the roof can help
reduce noise.
Concrete Tiles
Concrete tiles were previously much maligned as a roof material. Over the years they lost both tensile
strength and colour. Today, however, they are enjoying a come back due to technological
improvements and a wide selection of colours and profiles and often offer a value for money
alternative check out the manufacturers warranties before finalising your choice.
Terra Cotta Tiles
Terra cotta tiles, as well as being usually more expensive, are slightly heavier than concrete. They
have a reputation for their long-life qualities, and are the traditional favourites. Terra cotta tiles are
available in a number of different profiles and colours.
Slate Roofs
Slate roofs offer a high standard of weatherproofing, look good, but are usually costly. Similar flat
profiles are available in fibre cement sheet, concrete and terra cotta tiles.

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Pressed Metal Tiles

Plain pressed metal tiles or stone-chip metal tiles (metal tiles with real stone chips bound in acrylic)
may cost more than terra cotta tiles but are lightweight, leading to savings in transport and framing
costs.
Shingles
Shingles can be made of timber or fibrous cement. Generally both last well and have good insulating
properties.
GUTTERS
Rusted or poorly installed gutters are common problems for the property owner. In some suburbs, we
have found that half of the properties inspected needed repairs or replacement.
Some of the easily recognisable signs of deterioration are bubbling paint or rust on the underside of
the gutters, stains on the underside of eaves, and the presence of rust in general. If the problem is
minor, small holes in gutters may be temporarily patched by appropriate tapes or silicone sealants
available from hardware stores.
Indications of more disastrous guttering defects are stains to eaves linings, sometimes around
windows, down the walls and even on the ceilings. Such leaks are most likely to be caused by gutter
overflow. Gutters overflow for a number of reasons. They may be clogged with debris, or the slope
(fall) of the gutter towards the downpipe may be insufficient. Blocked downpipes and drains may also
lead to water overflowing gutters. Guttering overflow may also occur during a heavy downpour
because the large volume of water can't drain away fast enough (roof plumbing is designed to meet
local rainfall conditions based on a 20 year ARI the average or expected interval between events of
a given rainfall intensity being exceeded).
An overloaded roof drainage system commonly occurs in older properties, after an extension has
been added, or where an upper level roof drains directly onto a lower level roof via a spreader
downpipe, all of which often increase the roof size (and thus the total run-off) without a similar
necessary increase in the size or number of downpipes.
Overflow defects are worsened when the outside edge of the gutter or spouting is higher than the
inside edge, a common installation defect. In these cases, the backlogged water can flow over the
inside edge of the gutter and into the adjacent eaves lining, ceiling space or wall cavity. Problem
installations of this kind can often be remedied by loosening the gutter brackets so that the outside
edge of the gutter drops lower than the inside edge. Alternatively and more effectively, overflow
outlets can be drilled into the gutter, below the danger level (refer illustration).

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Overflow defects are also common where a veranda or building extension is constructed against an
existing roof. Not only does the new roof will make it extremely difficult to gain access to clean the
existing gutter, leading to leaf litter build up and eventual overflow, but often the extension roof will
drain back to the existing gutter, increasing its water volume load.
One way to discover an overflow problem is to climb a ladder and carefully lift one of the roof tiles. A
look inside the eaves should reveal if leaks have occurred and if any timber-rot problems exist as a
result. It is also a good idea to check the inside of gutters. Look for signs of ponding, leaf litter build
up, localized dirt build up or rusting. If water remains in the gutter a day or two after rain, this could
indicate that the gutters are inadequately graded or flow the wrong way!
Additional guttering problems may occur in a property with a party wall. A rusting valley gutter or box
gutter is a serious problem in this case, as the water will run straight into the ceiling. The rusted
sections should be replaced and the flashing removed from the mortar between the bricks. The
replacement flashing must be installed correctly so that it sheds water safely.
Gutter Replacement
The cheapest and most commonly used guttering has traditionally been galvanised iron. However,
this has been largely superseded by Zincalume, a zinc and aluminium coating to steel. Other options
are aluminium, stainless steel and zinc - the big advantage of these being that they are less prone to
corrosion, and therefore have a longer life expectancy. Their disadvantage is that they are more
expensive.
Take care when replacing or repairing either sheet metal roofing or guttering that materials are
compatible. Zincalume sheeting is incompatible with galvanised iron guttering as well as lead flashing.
MAINTENANCE OF ROOFS AND GUTTERS

All roofing and guttering will deteriorate in time. Metal surfaces can deteriorate very quickly if not
looked after. A seemingly sound metal roof or gutter can show an advanced state of decay in just six
months. Debris in rusting gutters, for example, can accelerate deterioration considerably, particularly
where the leaf litter creates an acidic reaction, as in the case of pine needles.
It is recommended that you cut back overhanging trees. Many modern gutters are designed to shed
leaves more effectively. There are also various gutter guard systems on the market, from lengths of
spiral brush or plastic mesh placed within the gutters, to fixed metal mesh covers, all designed to
assist in shedding airblown, or tree dropped, debris. In selecting the most appropriate system for your
situation, consider the type of litter to be shed and the ease of maintenance of the gutter. Despite the
best of protection, there may be long periods of still air and/or dry weather periods which may allow
the litter to mulch and sink as soil like particles through the mesh or brush fibres, building up a solid
layer within the gutter. This layer, which will be out of sight, should not be out of mind, as it can cause
premature corrosion to the gutters if it is not removed.
Roof mounted swimming pool solar heating strapping or panel mounting brackets may also catch leaf
litter, reducing effective shedding of water and leading to possible roof leakage as water backs up
behind the leaf build-up. Care should also be taken to maintain roof-mounted solar hot water units or
pool heating systems to avoid leaks, particularly where the recirculating water may contain corrosive
chemicals which may affect flashings and guttering.
Deterioration to roofs and gutters can be suddenly accelerated by storm and high winds. While these
factors are beyond the means of the property owner to control, Ask An Architect recommends that all
property owners check their roofs and guttering after such events, and on a regular basis.
Deterioration defects can then be detected at an early stage so that maintenance and repairs can be
undertaken before more costly damage occurs.
Remember regular and preventative maintenance is the best way of avoiding expensive problems is
your property. We have carried out thousands of property inspections for property owners and
prospective buyers and can help you make a realistic appraisal of the property before renovating or
repairing.


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(NSW Nominated Architect C. Townsend Reg. No. 8676)_TBTS_July2014_803V3
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The nerve-racking part about buying a property is that, more often than not, it is the unseen problems
which cause all the heartaches.
One of the worst cases seen by our inspection service was in a house in Bentleigh, Victoria, where the
architraves, skirtings, doors, windows and cupboards were all infested with termites. The house had
been superficially renovated to cover up tens of thousands of dollars' damage. Similar properties are
frequently encountered all over Australia, and particularly in Queensland.
According to our statistics, after cracking and rising damp, termites and borers scare people the most.
Part of this fear comes from the unknown. They conjure up vivid pictures of teams of nasty little
creatures voraciously chomping up a building to a pile of rubble. Most people don't understand
termites and borers, but like everything, once the cause and remedy are explained, the problem
doesn't seem so bad.
Termites are often mistakenly called white ants, although apart from their social habit of living in
colonies, and similar size, they are a very different category (genus) of insect.
We trust that your ArchiInspect Timber Pest inspection will assist you in realistically assessing whether
you can accept the risk of termite and other destructive timber pests in the property you are
considering purchasing.
SUBTERRANEAN TERMITES
Termites are everywhere. If it is any comfort, although Australia has its share of destructive termites,
they are nothing compared with their cousins in tropical Africa who can reduce a house to rubble in
three months. In northern Australia, they can grow up to 15mm long (Mastotermes darwiniensis) and
will devour wood, cow dung, paper and corn for their cellulose content. They are even known to attack
lead-coated cables, make holes in plastic water pipes and even attack billiard balls. There are over 300
species of termite in Australia, but only about 30 cause damage of any economic significance. Only
Tasmania is free of "economically significant" termite attack to buildings.
Termites in other States may be smaller than the species in the north of Australia but can be more
numerous and just as voracious. Termites tend to be prevalent in moist sandy soils, like beach-side
suburbs especially where underground water is present (one in ten houses or more is likely to have
had termite trouble) but clay and other soils are also quite susceptible. No area in Australia is immune.
The problem, as we shall see, is that they are sometimes extremely difficult to find. For this reason, a
visual inspection that fails to find termite activity does not necessarily mean that they are not present,
or that they won't invade soon after the inspection.
Termite Behaviour
Subterranean termites hate light and dry heat, preferring dark, warm, moist environments because
their bodies are very prone to desiccation (drying out). They will never be found in the open and their
activity is always well inside the timber they are attacking. In very bad infestations they may eat most of
the available timber, leaving only a very thin veneer on the surface. Commonly they will completely gut
a piece of wood leaving no visual evidence of their activity on the outside.


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Main and often subsidiary nests are excavated underground or in rotted tree stumps and wood piles,
wherever humidity is high. Underground galleries are dug to search for wood. The galleries preserve
the moist atmosphere of the nest, shield the termites from light and protect them from predators
(largely ants). Their network of galleries can stretch up to a hundred metres from the nest in search of
food.
Where their galleries leave the ground (eg. to feed on a buildings floor framing), the termites construct
shelter tubes with the same properties as galleries. They are usually about 20mm wide and look like
piled-up mud trails, being constructed of soil and faecal material, bound together with termite saliva.
These mud shelter tubes are the best way of identifying termite activity. The tubes may be seen
climbing up the walls between the ground and floor-boards, or if your property has stumps, snaking
over ant caps between stump and bearer. Once new food is found, the colony can virtually excavate
the whole of the inside of the timber, leaving only a honeycomb of tunnel walls and a thin outer layer
which preserves the controlled atmosphere. The destruction can be devastating and may be
remarkably quick.
Termites are good at predicting weather changes. Even before a heavy warm-season downpour
begins, swarms of the reproductive caste termites (alates) are released from the nest and fly away to
form new colonies. Fortunately, of the millions which set out, only an occasional pair succeed in finding
a suitable site, and many of these are taken by predators or die by desiccation. Warm humid weather
conditions are favoured for the short flights, which usually occur during the warmer months. Once
established and mature, the colony population can expand rapidly, as the Queen termite can produce
up to 2000 eggs a day! This represents a huge potential for ever-increasing timber destruction, if
conditions are right.
Properly installed termite 'barriers' do not keep termites out, but rather force termites to show
themselves as they try to get around the obstruction. Physical barriers include ant caps and proprietary
mesh and stone products. Chemical treatments include repellent and non-repellent termiticides, the
former of which may also be combined within products with 'barrier' type properties. There are also
monitoring and baiting systems and reticulating systems. Some of the proprietary physical barrier
products and reticulating systems can only be installed during the construction of the building.
Prevention is Better than Cure
Being aware of, and appropriate management of the environmental conditions which are conducive to
timber pest attack can go a long way in mitigating your propertys risk of attack. If your neighbours
have had termite problems, or there is a change in local conditions, for example road or development
works through an adjacent reserve, it may be wise to obtain a pest inspection. The cost of such an
inspection compares favourably with the cost of eradication and replacement of affected timbers.
CONDITIONS CONDUCIVE TO TERMITES

High Levels of Moisture
Keep sub-floor and roof spaces dry and well ventilated. Ensure the adjacent ground surfaces and the
overflows from hot water units, rainwater tank, air conditioning units or the like, drain away from the
building. Damp soils under or around a building may also be an indication of broken drains or pipes.
Rectification of these defects should be prompt. Persistently damp soil and timbers will also encourage
termite activity.
Blocked Sub-Floor Ventilators
Avoid the temptation to build up garden beds directly against the external walls, particularly against
weatherboards, and keep well clear of sub-floor ventilation grilles or openings. Similarly, keep sub-floor
ventilation grilles or openings free from obstructions, both externally and from within the sub-floor.
Avoid laying paths or paving where they may obstruct the free flow of air through the ventilators. Do
not forget to ensure adequate sub-floor cross ventilation where new building work may cover existing
sub-floor vents.


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Blocked Weepholes
Weepholes drain moisture and condensation from within wall cavities. Blocked weepholes not only
increase moisture levels within these spaces but also may provide concealed access for termites.
Weepholes should be kept free of garden mulch and litter.
Concealed Slab Edges
Structures built on concrete slabs are not immune to timber pest attack. While there are no sub-floor
timbers, termites can gain concealed access to the wall framing and eventually the ceiling and roof
framing through poorly sealed pipe penetrations, slab cracks and the brick or cladding interface.
Australian Standards recommend that the slab edge be exposed at least 75mm to permit termite
detection. The slab edge should not be rendered, tiled, clad or concealed by flashing or landscaping.
Timber in Contact with the Ground
Timber in direct contact with the ground provide the ideal progressive dinner food on the go -whether
the timber is part of a building structure, a stack of firewood or building waste left under the building.
Waste timber should be removed; firewood stored away from the building; posts raised on stirrups; and
stumps fitted with antcaps to aid detection.
MAINTENANCE ITEMS
To guard against termite attack, there are several precautions that should be taken:
Remove all timber debris from under the building, since its presence encourages foraging
termites. Move piles of timber or firewood (potential food source for a new colony) away from the
building, and store the timber in a dry, well-ventilated location. Old decayed tree stumps should be
removed to below ground level.
Ensure building timbers are not kept in persistent damp conditions, such as under heavy creepers,
near leaking taps or regularly operated sprinklers, but are allowed to dry out. These timbers will
require regular inspection for both timber rot and termites.
Provide good ventilation under all suspended floors. The reduced humidity and moisture makes
the subfloor area vastly less attractive to termites. Leaking water pipes or bad drainage
encourages termite presence so these defects should be remedied.
Examine new constructions; for example, verandas and timber decking, if built on stumps, may
not have ant caps. These constructions, and concrete additions to the building, may also bridge
previously laid chemical treatments, permitting unobserved termite entry. The underside of a
concrete slab is a popular place for termite nests. If you have concrete laid next to the timber
frame of your building, damp conditions may be promoted and subsequent termite entry would be
extremely difficult to detect. You should consider this when renovating: if concrete-next-to-timber
is part of the design, have an expert first put in place a preventative treatment.
If you notice what you think is termite activity, leave them alone and arrange an inspection by an
expert. Never disturb what you think may be termite activity. This prompts the termites to move
elsewhere which makes future detection and eradication more difficult. It may also result in the
damage being increased elsewhere.


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FOOTNOTES
(QLD only) West Indian Drywood Termites
These highly destructive termites were first recorded in Maryborough in 1964. They do not need
access to water or earth, so do not produce the normal termite mud tunnels, and thus are harder to
find. Colonies have since been found in Maryborough, Bundaberg, Childers and Brisbane. They have
been declared a "notifiable disease" and eradication treatment is performed without cost to the
property owner. Isolated outbreaks have occurred in Sydney and Perth as a result of untreated
imported furniture. You can minimise the chance of infestation by thoroughly examining second-hand
timber and furniture before introducing it to your property. West Indian termites leave very small oval
shaped pellets, brown, black or reddish in colour, near the site of attack. If you suspect you have them,
send samples of the pellets (or "frass") to the Queensland Department of Forestry or your state
agricultural or primary industry department. The Department of Forestry urges the public to be vigilant
and hopes to eradicate this pest completely.
Dampwood Termites
Dampwood termites are not considered to have significant economic impact on timber in service,
generally tending to feed only on damp or rotting timber. They are rarely found in dry timbers in
buildings (timber-in-service) and do not attack buildings unless there is timber-soil contact that allows
access to other timbers. The risk of infestation is reduced significantly by isolating wood from the
ground and preventing dampness. Affected timbers should be replaced.
DETECTING AND ERADICATING TERMITES

The annoying part is that termites are hard to find even for experts and it is usually only after a chair
leg goes through a weakened floor, or the vacuum cleaner head crushes a hollowed-out skirting board,
that people notice their unwelcome visitors for the first time. Termites typically leave the thinnest of
barriers between themselves and the atmosphere, sometimes the mere thickness of a coat of paint,
which can be a way of identifying their presence.
They are normally first noticed in low density woods like skirtings, architraves, floorboards and pine
framing timbers, but can extend into denser hardwood timbers if not eradicated.
Termites are the cause of the greatest economic losses of timber-in-service in Australia. Independent
data compiled by State Forestry shows 1 in every 5 homes is attacked by termites at some stage in its
life. More recent data would indicate that this is now as high as 1 in every 3. Australia's subterranean
termite species are highly destructive timber pests causing around $1 billion worth of damage and
treatment costs each year.

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Under the right conditions, it can take only a matter of months for a termite colony to severely damage
almost all the timber in a building.
Termite infestations can be treated. Chemical pest management treatments should only be performed
by an expert, so make sure you contact only currently licensed members of your State's pest control
association. There are a number of alternative treatments. Termiticide can be applied at critical
locations around the property, usually in soils or on timbers. Termites absorb the toxin as they pass
through the soil and carry it back to their nest where, as they clean or groom each other, the toxin is
eventually passed through the entire colony. A non-toxic approach is also available that uses a
hormone which affects the growth cycle of the termite, preventing it from shedding its exoskeleton a
necessary process in its life cycle. The hormone, mixed together with a cellulose material and
contained in strategically located baiting stations, is also passed through the colony as the termites
groom each other.
It is important to understand that if termite activity or evidence of termite damage has been identified
on your property or within the building, even if a treatment has been successfully applied, termite
damage to timber members may have occurred, either prior to, or during, the treatment process. Some
of this damage may be visible, but as much of the timber of a building is concealed and inaccessible to
a visual inspection, (for example, behind wall and ceiling linings and claddings, under floor finishes,
and insulation, behind joinery units, fittings, fitments or equipment) the unseen damage may be quite
extensive and affect structural members.
Similarly, while a treatment might possibly have eradicated a previous infestation of termites, it is no
guarantee that they won't return and attack a property again. All termite management systems have
limitations. Physical barriers can be bridged or broken and chemical treatments can deteriorate over
time. While many product guarantees have conditional cover, ultimately there is no guarantee that any
system will provide complete protection. Consequently, we always recommend a termite management
plan that includes regular inspections.
The risk of infestation and/or damage to areas inaccessible to a visual inspection, whether or not
termite activity has been sighted, should be seriously considered, particularly when the property has
identified conditions conducive to termite activity and inaccessible areas at risk of attack or infestation.
It is prudent to undertake an intrusive inspection in these areas to determine the presence and/or
extent of possible concealed activity or damage.
ABOVE: Timber devastated by a termite attack


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BORERS OF SEASONED TIMBER

There are several types of timber borers in Australia, some serious and some not, so identification is
important if you think you have a problem. Borers are actually the larval form of different families of
beetles. Some of the relatively harmless ones that do not need any special eradicative treatment are
pinhole borers, longicorn borers and auger beetles.
Pinhole borers cannot survive in timber once it has dried out, so they normally leave before, or soon
after, the timber is used for construction. You can identify them by examining their "flight holes" (the
holes made when leaving the timber). These holes will rarely have borer dust (or frass) around them,
since in most cases, the insect is long gone or dead. They leave relatively few holes unlike the more
destructive species below.
Longicorns leave oval shaped holes 6-10mm in size as they emerge from framing timbers or wall
linings. They are not a serious structural problem because, unlike the more destructive species, they
cannot breed in the timber and therefore cannot proliferate. The size and shape of their flight holes
makes this borer easy to identify.
Auger beetles, again fairly harmless, are harder to distinguish from the more destructive Lyctid borer.
One way of telling them apart is that auger beetles leave far fewer flight holes since they also cannot
proliferate in the timbers, and so are far fewer in number. However, differentiating them from Lyctids is
not normally important, since if conditions are right for auger beetles, they are even better for Lyctid
borers: therefore if one species is present, you will normally find the other.
While the adult beetles lay their eggs within the timber, it is the larval (grub) stage of borer beetle
development that is the most destructive, as the grubs feed on the timber as they grow. Some beetles
may spend several years in the larval stage causing significant and concealed damage. It is only after
the borer have finished their pupal stage, during which time their destructive activity ceases as they
metamorphose from grub to winged insect within a pupal case, that their presence may be observed
through the flight holes they have cut on emerging from the timber, only to mate as adults and repeat
the cycle.
Lyctus Borer (Powder Post Beetle)
These borers only attack the sapwood of certain susceptible species of hardwood timber. Sapwood is
the living band of wood around the outside of the tree. Each State has its own regulations, some
limiting the amount of sapwood that can be cut from felled trees for use in serviceable timbers, while
others try to eliminate its use altogether, or require susceptible sapwood to be treated.
In the southern States, lyctid attack to the sapwood of framing timbers is common, but because the
amount of sapwood in framing timbers is small, the presence of lyctid borer is unlikely to seriously
affect the timber's strength. And being out of sight, the borers will rarely be noticed. Treatment or
replacement of affected structural timbers is generally unnecessary. However, because decorative
timbers like skirting boards, small dimensioned battens and timber trims are thin, they could, in some
cases, be cut almost exclusively from the outside of the tree and be largely made of sapwood - food for
lyctids, these timbers could be riddled with lyctids within three to five years of construction.
Lyctids can be recognised by their 2mm holes and large quantities of flour-like dust (or frass). Although
not generally a problem structurally, they are certainly unsightly. If lyctid attack is visible, or present in
battens supporting tiles, claddings or linings, the affected timbers may require replacement. Otherwise
they do not need any special treatment.
Anobium Borer (furniture beetle) & Queensland pine borer
Anobiid borers are more serious and attack softwoods, especially varieties of pine (although very rarely
do they attack the common Pinus radiata). Like Lyctids, Anobiids are widespread throughout Australia.
The Anobium punctatum species especially loves Baltic pine, commonly used 50 to 150 years ago but
still occasionally used for floorboards and weatherboards. The "Queensland pine beetle", anobiid
Calymmaderus incises, found in south east Queensland and northern NSW and farther north, has a
similar love for hoop and bunya pine.


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Anobiids tend to channel along the grain of the wood, making the odd 2mm pinhole and leaving large
quantities of loose gritty dust with a texture of fine table salt. They are capable of eating for years and
will happily chomp away anonymously under the carpet. You will probably first notice the floor feeling
spongy at one end of a large room (like the living room) because a big floor area will deflect more
noticeably. Also be aware that second hand or antique furniture, or old floorboards may contain borers,
so examine such articles well before introducing them into the property.
Anobiid damage must always be attended to. Property owners have sometimes stopped infestation by
removing all significant borer-infested timbers and replacing them with non-susceptible timbers, then
monitoring the results. Such treatment is only worthwhile if sub-floor humidity is simultaneously
reduced, because borers thrive in damp conditions. Humidity can be reduced by removal of debris,
increasing sub-floor ventilation (cleaning out vents and possibly adding more) and draining damp soil
where necessary.
In some cases Anobiid-infested timbers need chemical treatment. As with termite eradication, it is
recommended that only currently licensed members of your State's pest control association be
contracted and that they should provide a written description of proposed treatment.
BORER RECOMMENDATIONS
Replacement of all susceptible timbers is always preferred since, in the event of selling the property in
the future, it is probable that an inspector will report the borers as active. A chemical treatment to
control and/or protect against furniture beetle and/or Queensland pine beetle can be considered as a
less effective, lower cost option.
Before considering this option you should consult with a structural engineer to determine if the timbers
are structurally sound. Following the initial treatment, a further inspection is essential in twelve months
time to determine if further treatment is needed. Treatments over a number of consecutive years may
be required.
TIMBER DECAY FUNGI
Timber may also be affected by fungal decay. Timber affecting fungi reproduce via the release of
microscopic spores which can be carried long distances by wind, air currents, water or even on
animals. Spores will germinate on damp wood - with a moisture content of approximately 30% - using
the timber cellulose as a food source.
Fungal activity will be determined by the type and durability of the timber, its level of protection, eg.
paint or finish, and environmental conditions, although activity, once commenced, may continue within
the already decaying timber even with reducing moisture levels. The environmental conditions
conducive to fungal attack are similar to those conducive to timber pest infestation. Rectification of
these conditions may prevent local, as well as invasive attack by both fungal and insect types of
destructive timber pests.
Decay caused by Timber Decay Fungi
Where exposed to the weather, blistering, peeling, cracked and chalky paint allows water to enter
timbers and will result in timber decay over time. Timber is particularly susceptible at joints,
connections or overlaps with other members, fixing bolts, nails and fixing plates where the paint or
protective cover may be compromised or worn, and where water can pool on surfaces or enter the end
grain. Timber should not be in direct contact with soil. External timber elements exposed to persistent
shade or damp, such as under wide eaves and verandas, next to or covered by dense garden plant
growth or abundant creepers and in poorly drained corners, courtyards or lightwells where permanently
shaded by buildings, are also at high risk of developing timber rot.
It is important to ensure that susceptible timbers are appropriately protected and well maintained and
sources of damp eliminated or controlled. Early sign of timber decay may be timber discolouration, and
while timely rubbing back, sealing and repainting to protect the members or elements may appear to
halt the process the fungal growth can continue within the already decaying timbers even if the
moisture content of the timber is reduced. Smaller sections of cosmetic damage can sometimes be


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treated by removing the loose and fibrous material, treating with an appropriate fungicide and filling or
splicing with a new section, prior to painting. You should consult a building expert to obtain advice as to
whether more significant timber repairs are also required. Badly affected members may require
complete replacement.
Damp conditions may allow timber rot to develop in concealed framing timbers where early visual
detection will not be possible, particularly in and around showers, baths and other wet area plumbing
fixtures. Risk can be minimised by maintaining the grouting to floor and wall tiles and the sealant
around shower screens and/or shower bases. Similarly, the floor tiling and grouting to external timber
framed balconies should be regularly checked and maintained. Where movement has caused tile
grouting to crack, it may also have damaged any underlying waterproof membrane, compromising its
performance, and allowing water to penetrate to the balcony and, even, wall framing. Ask An Architect
recommends regular inspections of all balconies and decks.


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(NSW Nominated Architect C. Townsend Reg. No. 8676)_TDTS_TSBK_Jun14_800V1
1 of 8
Damp buildings can be unhealthy and costly to remedy. Knowing more about the problems can reduce the
worry and expense. Most dampness problems can be cured or minimised by simple remedial work but a
few will need substantial outlays. This sheet outlines the causes and remedies of dampness mainly
affecting double brick and concrete structural panel construction and some framed buildings with concrete,
stone or brick foundations.
In many instances, dampness may not be present all year round (and may not be evident during a
property inspection), depending on the source, it may only become evident after a change in weather
conditions, usually during the colder or wetter months or after periods of heavy or extreme rainfall.
TYPES OF DAMPNESS
Rising Damp
Rising damp occurs at the bases of walls. Water accumulating there has a tendency to "wick up" through
the capillaries that are present in the walls, be they brick, block or most stone; and through the mortar in
which they are laid. Damp-proof courses are there to block this upward movement of moisture but
sometimes are ineffective.
The NCCS Building Code of Australia (BCA), to which all new construction must comply, requires dampproof courses to be placed through the full thickness of the base of walls below floor level to form an
impervious layer that keeps rising dampness out of the interior of the building (Refer Australian Standard
AS3700: Masonry Structures).
Falling Damp
Refers mainly to the effect of leaking roofs, pipes etc., where water penetrates the wall or walls from
above. Leaking pipes or downpipes, if ponding near a wall, can increase rising damp.
Horizontal Damp
Various defects can cause water to move horizontally through a wall at any height and create a damp
patch.
Condensation Dampness
Moist warm air that is inside a building will condense into its liquid state where it touches colder surfaces
such as windows, walls, or the underside of metal roof sheeting.
SIGNS OF DAMPNESS - WHAT TO LOOK FOR

With the exception of condensation, most forms of building damp are the result of rain and not
unexpectedly, the signs of this defect may be absent during dry seasons or periods of extended drought.
Even if a wall or ceiling is damp, the problem can often be hard to detect until the material starts to dry out,
drawing the moisture to the surface.


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The three most common signs are:

1. Surface Stains
Water moving through bricks, blocks etc may dissolve some of the alkaline salts from the mortar. The salts
can then react with the tannins in timber, wallpaper or the like to produce stains that are usually brown.
The stains can be unsightly, but do not cause damage.
Some clay bricks with vanadium salts stain brown or purple after being cleaned with spirits of salts (i.e.
hydrochloric acid, which is often applied to remove mortar splashes). Such stains usually disappear with a
scrubbed-on application of diluted caustic soda (eg. some dishwashing detergents) but the stains can
sometimes be stubborn and will then require specialised treatment.
2. Lifted Surface Finishes
As a wall affected by damp dries, the water will be drawn to the surface and find itself trapped under the
paint film or other surface finish. The evaporating water lifts the film in bubbles that will eventually break to
leave blisters. Wallpaper or other applied finishes, including timber panels, can be similarly damaged.
3. Efflorescence and Fretting
Where there is a continuous supply of water rising up a wall, it will contain dissolved salts, and when that
water dries out at the surface, the salts will crystallise. If the crystals form on the surface of the wall as a
white furry coating, it will be suffering from non-damaging efflorescence, but if the crystallisation occurs
within the bricks or mortar, the forming crystals can exert pressure that causes the surface to break down
and fret away.
In most of Australia this phenomenon is called salt attack, but the South Australian name for it - salt damp,
is often also used. With rising damp, there is generally a continuous supply of water (such as damp soils
around and under the footings and walls) so salt attack damage worsens over time, but it usually reaches
a stage where crystallisation occurs only on the surface as efflorescence and fretting stops.
Above: Fretted mortar resulting from rising damp.
CAUSES OF RISING DAMP OR "SALT-DAMP"

Disrupted Damp-Proof Course
The minor movements to which all structures can be subjected sometimes cause brittle damp-proof
courses to crack and thus create a path for dampness. Slate and mortar damp-proof courses are the type
most subject to damage from this cause, but tar and sand can also become brittle enough to crack. The
result is usually a local patch of efflorescence, fretting or timber rot.


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The Damp-Proof Course no Longer Copes

Some change to the conditions at the base of the wall that put increased pressure on what was always a
deficient damp-proof course (eg. a mortar damp-proof course with inadequate waterproofing compound
mixed into it) is the most common reason for a building to develop a dampness problem.
For example, some brick walls are higher off the ground than required by regulation and water wicking up
that wall is frequently able to evaporate off from the sides of the masonry before it reaches the level of the
damp-proof course. However, if that evaporation is inhibited by raising the level of the ground outside, or
by blocking the ventilators that are provided to ensure good air circulation under the floor, the moisture has
nowhere to go except up through the deficient damp-proof course. Therefore these impediments should be
removed.
Similarly where the renovation of a building with a timber floor involves the substitution of a new concrete
floor slab in place of a pre-existing timber floor the concrete against the original external wall will stop
moisture evaporating from that wall and can induce rising damp damage. If the plastic membrane
underneath the slab has also been damaged or has broken down this can create an additional load on a
poor damp-proof course and cause rising damp particularly if the ground underneath is boggy and poorly
drained. A partial remedy is to improve the drainage.
The Damp-Proof Course is Bridged
If a membrane damp-proof course is not placed through the full thickness of the wall, there will be a mortar
"bridge" at the face of the mortar joint. Moisture will cross that bridge and can cause salt attack fretting in
the bricks and mortar above. (The Australian Standard masonry code requires sheet damp proof courses
to protrude out from either side of the wall.) This problem is most commonly seen in older buildings where
a bituminous felt membrane was used that was less than the full width of the wall, but fortunately it seldom
produces extensive damage because the mortar bridge itself soon frets away and thus enables the
membrane damp-proof course to do its intended job.
A similar, but non-self curing problem can occur when older face brickwork or blockwork is rendered and
the render bridges the damp-proof course. Other cases are also illustrated below. One example is where a
concrete path is located above damp-proof course level. The problem is made worse if the path slopes
towards the wall. Another is where successive layers of mulch or topsoil build up on adjacent garden beds
above the damp-proof course level. Building up the adjacent ground level can also create easy access to
the sub floor for termites (Refer to the section on Termites and Borers).
Another bridging problem can be created where mortar droppings in the base of the wall cavity build up
and cover the stepped flashing/damp-proof course and thus provide a passage for dampness from the
outer to the inner leaf of the wall. This type of bridge is seldom continuous and usually only causes local
patches of damp to develop.
Above left: Bridging of the damp-proof course


Above right: Blistered and bubbled plaster and paint

on the internal face of a brick wall affected by rising
damp
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CAUSES OF FALLING DAMPNESS

Water pipes, stormwater pipes, roofs, gutters and downpipes can all leak water into roofs, down walls and
also into the ground that will also increase the chance of rising damp. A thorough examination of all these
elements may reveal the sources of leaks and a repair should be affected.
Minor guttering problems can be patched with bituminous tape or similar. Water pipe problems and other
persistent problems may be solved through reference to the section on "Roofing and Guttering" or by
contacting a licensed plumber.
Water from leaking roofs or condensation on the underside of roof sheeting can travel for some distance
before it finally appears within the building as falling dampness which makes it difficult to determine the
precise source of the problem. Tracing the origin of white salts on the underside of the roof sheets or tiles
may produce the answer.
In buildings constructed without eaves, with the gutter fascia often in direct contact with the wall, the
slightest irregularity in gutter placement or blocked or damaged gutters may result in water overflowing
directly down the wall, increasing the likelihood of water penetrating behind loose render, or worse still
penetrating through to the wall cavity. Particular care must also be taken with the location and the correct
plumbing connections of rainwater tanks and air conditioning condensate drains to ensure the overflows
are directed away from the walls to avoid similar potential problems.
CAUSES OF HORIZONTAL DAMPNESS

Where horizontal dampness is present in a cavity wall, it is usually because mortar droppings lodge on the
ties joining the two walls and form a bridge for water to cross and create damp patches internally.
In most instances of dampness penetrating a single skin wall, it will accumulate at a horizontal gap
(commonly a-less-than perfectly full mortar joint, but which may also be caused by footing movement
which creates cracking); cutting holes in walls or defective flashings can also be the cause. In most cases
where the single skin wall is soundly built, the moisture evaporates from the external face of the brick
faster than it can penetrate to any depth, so it is not usually a significant problem.
CAUSES OF CONDENSATION DAMPNESS

Where warm air comes into contact with cooler surfaces, it leaves a film of moisture. Inside a building,
condensation typically takes place on cold surfaces such as ceilings, or windows, the tops of walls or in airflow stagnant areas e.g. behind cupboards and furniture placed hard up against walls, and on windows
behind part closed blinds or part drawn curtains, particularly where there is no pelmet.
Condensation is most common in bathrooms
when running a shower or bath, in laundries
while using an internally vented clothes dryer,
and in kitchens when cooking.
Also the
underside of the roof covering can easily
become cold enough for condensation to form,
particularly with metal roofs. Moisture
condensation will often occur at night in
unheated or uninsulated bedrooms when moist
breath exhaled while sleeping comes in contact
with the cold surface of walls, ceilings and
windows.
While condensation may be noticed under some
lighting conditions as a sheen across the
surface, it often goes undetected until mould
begins to develop. Moulds require moisture, a
food source (such as paper, paint, clothing, etc)
and still air to grow. About 70% of mould
problems are due to condensation coming from
wet areas like bathrooms and laundry, while
30% comes from rising damp.

Above: Condensation induced mould which has developed

behind furniture above, and at the top of the walls and
ceiling in an uninsulated room right.
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CURES FOR RISING DAMPNESS

Repair the Damaged Damp-Proof Course
A deteriorated damp-proof course is nearly always one that has cracked rather than physically broken
down. The associated damage is usually local and close to the crack. In the case of isolated patches of
rising damp due to this cause, local insertion of a new damp-proof course followed by treatment of
deteriorated plaster or other wall covering will usually be appropriate.
Improve Sub-Floor Ventilation
Rising damp can often result from a lack of sufficient, partly or completely blocked, sub-floor ventilators or
vents. Typically, older brick dwellings have an inadequate number of sub-floor vents. Blocked ventilators
commonly occur where the ground or garden bed level around the building has risen over time, or a new
path or verandah paving has been laid at a higher level than the ventilators. Removing the obstruction or
lowering the ground or garden bed level will frequently fix the problem. Where this is not possible, ducts
connected to sub-floor vents that rise above the obstruction, will frequently bring the desired cure.
Traditional terra cotta and cast iron vent faces in older properties can look handsome, but the holes
through them offer only about one tenth of the ventilation area as their modern metal counterparts.
Substitution of the originals for modern vents will frequently bring sufficient improvement to circulation
under the building to eliminate a rising damp problem. Simply increasing the number of vents will further
improve circulation. In the case of full brick constructions, it might be necessary to carefully form openings
in the internal base walls below the floor to ensure the free flow of air throughout the whole sub-floor
space. We recommend this work be undertaken by a qualified tradesperson as care should be taken to
ensure that this is done in areas such as under doorways where there is no load. Alternatively
appropriately sized lintels will need to be installed.
Sub-floor air flow can also be increased by installing a solar or dc powered unit in the sub-floor space,
Alternatively, ventilation can be further increased by creating suitably located flues, such as a sheet metal
pipe, that uses the non-mechanical (passive) stack effect to draw air from the sub-floor area and discharge
it to the outside above roof level. Using wind driven rotating cowls on the top of such flues, or solarpowered electric fans can increase the amount of air moved. A disused chimney can also serve this
purpose if the fireplace is blocked off and holes are cut through the hearth. Again ensure this work is
undertaken by a qualified tradesperson.
Where an open fireplace is still in use, placing a closable ventilator through the floor near the hearth will
enable that fireplace to draw air from the sub-floor area while at the same time reducing the cold air drafts
that would otherwise pass the feet of those enjoying the fire's radiant heat.
Repair Leaking Plumbing
Modern domestic water meters measure the volume of water passing through them with such accuracy
that they can be used to test for leaks. If all the taps are turned off and the meter still registers a flow of
water, there must be a leak. Cracked or damaged waste pipes - sewer or stormwater - should also be
investigated preferably by a licensed plumber. These may be more problematic to detect. Repair of leaking
water pipes or drains will eliminate them as a cause of the problem and should be undertaken by a
licenced plumber. Remedying the damage caused will often require additional effort.
Combat Damp-Proof Course Bridging
Dampness caused by poorly laid paths or high garden beds can be cured by either (a) rebuilding the path
or re-levelling the garden bed below the damp-proof course, and grading or sloping it away from the
building or (b) installing a spoon or enclosed drain in the path adjacent to the wall below the damp-proof
course and connecting it to the stormwater. Of the two, (a) is preferable because it also improves sub-floor
ventilation.
Where dampness is caused by a bridge of mortar droppings in the base of the cavity in a full masonry
construction, experience shows it often to be practically impossible to gain access to the cavity to remove
the bridge. However, there will usually only be occasional damp spots and a local damp-proof course
insertion above the damp patch plus the internal application of a waterproof coating of the masonry below
the new damp-proof course and then replastering if necessary will usually effect a cure.

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Install New Damp-Proof Course

Where the remedies described above are ineffective or not possible it will be necessary to embark on the
process of inserting a new damp-proof course. (Older buildings on stone foundations, may, on the
otherhand, have no damp proofing at all in some if not all walls.) There are a variety of methods of doing
this, but two dominate:
1. Physically insert a new Membrane
A mortar bed-course, at a level below the lowest floor frame member is cut out and a new damp-proof
course membrane is then inserted into the resulting horizontal gap.
The main difficulty is in ensuring that the mortar caulking around the new membrane is adequate to
support the wall above. Because of this problem, the technique is now mostly associated with a patented
method using a plastic bag as the membrane. It is inserted into the joint and then pumped full of a quicksetting mortar to ensure support.
2. Create a Chemical Damp-Proof Course
A horizontal row of holes is drilled into the bricks or mortar and they are then injected with a chemical usually polysiloxane -under the pressure of gravity or using a pump to impregnate a band of bricks and
mortar that render that layer of bricks highly resistant to the passage of water.
This method has the great advantage that it does not interfere with the structure, but like all other methods
of damp proof insertion, its effectiveness is highly reliant on the care taken and the expertise of an
experienced tradesperson.
REPAIRING THE DAMAGE DONE BY RISING OR SALT DAMP

Repairing Damaged Hard Plaster
Hard plaster that has been wet because of rising damp will have reacted with the salts in the rising water to
create hygroscopic compounds that attract water from the air into the plaster. Because of this, a
completely dry wall will not be created unless that contaminated plaster is replaced.
It is wise to remove that plaster to a height about 300 mm above the level to which water was observed to
have risen, but it is also wise to wait several weeks - perhaps as long as three months - between repairing
the damp problem and replacing the plaster. This time period will allow the rising damp moisture to
evaporate off the bricks, draw the undesirable salts into the plaster layer and thus enable that salt to be
removed with the plaster.
Repairing with Waterproof Plaster
The use of waterproof plaster in the cure of salt
attack resulting from horizontal damp, where
mortar bridges the cavity or the damp-proof
course, is about the only time that this product
may fix the problem.
Attempts are sometimes made to cure the
consequences of damp rising resulting from a
failed
damp-proof
course
by
applying
waterproofed plaster to the damp areas. Rising
damp is rarely cured by this technique rather it
simply causes the damp to move further up the
wall and appear in what was previously an uneffected area.
Above: Illustrates capillary action.


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Installing Veneers
Some contractors replace the entire surface with waterproof plasterboard. Others use a technique of
attaching battens to affected walls and nailing on new plasterboard, providing a 5mm to 10mm gap
between the old surface and providing ventilation slots top and bottom. In this case, all timber used for
framing should be decay-resistant and the fastenings rust resistant.
All of these methods fall into the category of cover-ups rather than cures and consequently cannot be
considered permanent solutions.
Repairing Fretted Mortar
Where rising damp has caused mortar in external face brickwork to fret away and the cause of that
dampness has been cured, the appearance of the brickwork can be restored by repointing the joints. If this
is undertaken, it will be wise to rake out the existing joints to a depth of 25 to 30 mm before repointing and
it will be important not to use too strong a mortar in that repointing. Waterproof mortar should be used if
repointing the damp-proof course.
THE CURE FOR HORIZONTAL DAMPNESS

Horizontal dampness caused by mortar bridging between walls are usually isolated patches and once the
external point or area of water of entry has been identified, a waterproof coating can be applied. Paintedon coatings, either obscure and pigmented, or as clear coatings, such as silicones, are very effective for
this purpose. However, competent repairs of cracks and gaps in the mortar are essential prior to painting,
otherwise the coating will probably deliver more water to the gap than was the case before the coating was
applied.
Internal damage can be repaired by patching, as mentioned above. If the horizontal damp penetration has
been severe and protracted, it might be necessary to strip off and replace affected plaster, as also
described above in relation to rising damp.
THE CURE FOR CONDENSATION DAMPNESS

Simple cases of condensation dampness on ceilings and the top parts of external walls can often be
resolved by installing ceiling insulation. It stops both the ceiling and the tops of walls from getting too cold
and brings with it a significant saving in the amount of energy needed to heat the property in winter. Heavy
drapes with pelmets over windows similarly create an insulating layer of air, preventing condensation on
the colder surface of the glass.
In addition increase internal airflow at times when the external air is drier, thus decreasing humidity. This
could involve opening windows and cutting back shrubbery.
All exhaust flues from cooking, bathing and clothes drying should be vented externally and not into the roof
space or wall cavity, where they can cause condensation problems, particularly where the property has a
metal roof, or the roof is lined with reflective sarking or insulation.


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1 of 6
The technical information in this section constitutes a vital part of Ask An Architects
recommendations to you. Failure to observe the provisions of the warning sheet could
jeopardise the safety of the occupants and or lead to premature deterioration of the property.
A. MAINTENANCE OF THE PROPERTY

Health Warning - Painting Maintenance
Care should be taken with old painted surfaces, particularly those painted pre-1970, as they may have a
high lead content. Lead is dangerous, especially to children from conception to four years of age, as it can
interfere with their neurological development. Lead is absorbed by the body through ingestion and
inhalation (not through the skin). Old flaky lead paint surfaces are particularly dangerous as children may
lick or swallow the flakes, which have a sweet taste.
If the old paint surface is not flaking or crumbling, painting over it is recommended to encapsulate the old
paint. Lightly wet-sandpaper the surface first, carefully disposing of contaminated water. If removing the
paint, don't use methods that generate dust (ie, don't dry sand or abrasive blast) and avoid burning off the
surfaces if unsure of the temperature of the heat gun (temperatures over 400C will vaporise the lead,
which is highly dangerous). Chemical stripping, wet scraping or wet sanding are best. Take care in
cleaning up the residue.
A number of informative publications and further advice can be obtained by visiting the website of your
local EPA (Environmental Protection Authority) or the relevant federal government department. Refer also
to the Australian Standard AS 4361 part 2.
Health Warning - Asbestos
Most buildings built before 1983 will contain asbestos in some form. In most cases the presence of
asbestos products in buildings is no cause for alarm and they should be left in place.
In the past, asbestos was extensively used in many products, one of the most common being "a/c", or
asbestos cement sheeting. These sheets were often used for cladding (sometimes known as "fibro"),
roofing and water-resistant underlay in wet areas. The asbestos in these products is usually firmly
embedded in the cement. If the surface is undamaged the asbestos will remain embedded. Asbestos
cement was highly resistant to heat and was also used in chimney and heating flues and as heat shielding
in fireplaces and around heating units. Surfaces which are weathering and could release asbestos strands
from the surface can be covered with paint, or better, an acrylic waterproof membrane resembling thick
paint. Asbestos was also used in the backing layer of vinyl tiles. It will similarly remain embedded in the
material unless the top vinyl layer wears through to expose the backing.
Additionally, during the 1960s and 1970s, it was used in the manufacture of some loose fill ceiling
insulation products, one of which is known to have been used widely throughout the ACT. While the ACT
government embarked on a program of identification and removal of the contaminated insulation, it is
unclear whether all has been removed. Extreme caution is strongly advised before entering into a roof
space or disturbing the product if its presence is suspected.
Please Note: Appropriate care must be taken in the removal and disposal of any material where an
asbestos component is suspected.
Seek professional advice on the treatment of cracked or damaged a/c sheets, a/c products or aged vinyl
tiling and options when considering renovations to areas that may contain asbestos products.
Removal and disposal of asbestos cement sheet should only be undertaken by a licensed asbestos
removal company. As not all cement sheet or vinyl tiles manufactured prior to 1983 contained asbestos, it
may be appropriate to seek laboratory testing of the material to determine if asbestos is indeed present
before engaging specialist removalists. Asbestos removal can add substantially to the cost of renovation or
maintenance.
Specialist removalists will take precautions like:
Wearing protective masks and clothing;

Using hand tools, not power tools, for cutting;
Not abrading or breaking up the product whenever possible;


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Thoroughly wetting the product prior to working with it;

Working outdoors rather than indoors; and
Wetting any residue prior to sweeping.
Health Warning - Toxic Mould

Moulds are living organisms and reproduce by releasing spores into the atmosphere, similar to
mushrooms and other fungi. The spores from certain types of mould can cause asthma, bronchitis and
recurrent colds and flu in some people. Mould growth inside a building should always be considered
potentially harmful and should be eradicated. Moulds require moisture, a food source (such as paper,
paint, clothing etc) and still air. Seventy percent of mould problems are due to condensation coming from
wet areas like bathrooms and laundry, while thirty percent comes from rising or structure-borne damp.
It is often extremely difficult to eradicate the mould spores from porous surfaces with cleaning alone. They
may remain dormant in material for long periods of time, only to re-bloom when the conducive conditions
recur. You will need to both kill the active mould infestation, eliminate the sources of moisture such as
condensation, rising damp, leaking pipes, and the like, and by improving ventilation. Your local or State
health authority will be able to advise on the most appropriate method to treat mould.
Preventing Brick Cracking and Subsidence
Extended periods of dry weather and inadequate garden watering may cause footing subsidence and
cracking in brickwork, particularly where large trees are planted close to buildings. Similarly, poor drainage
around footings and persistently boggy soils can also cause subsidence and cracking. Refer to the section
on "Cracking in Brickwork".
Termite and Borer Attack
Termites can strike anywhere in Australia, though not significantly in Tasmania. A termite infestation can
cause significant damage within a period of weeks. Inadequate or restricted sub-floor ventilation, ground
dampness and timber debris beneath the floor provide conditions conducive to termite attack. Such
conditions also encourage borer infestation and timber rot. Refer to the section on "Termites and Borers".
Hidden Rising Damp
Rising damp may be evident in winter, but is not always detectable in summer. Even minor signs of damp
may indicate a far more serious underlying problem and you are advised to consult a damp control
company when in doubt. Rising damp can cause increased room humidity, thus encouraging vermin
infestation such as cockroaches, silverfish and dust mites, as well as toxic mould growth - all serious
asthma allergens. For more information on this topic refer to the section on "Treatment of Dampness".
External Timber
Most exterior timbers are susceptible to insect attack, weathering and decay. Wet rot is a common decay
that can be prevented through appropriate and timely maintenance. Apart from aesthetic concerns, rot can
affect the integrity and therefore the safety of balustrades, steps, deck flooring, support posts and exposed
framing. A properly applied stain or paint finish will inhibit water entry through the face of a timber member
and care must be taken to adequately protect gaps, joints and end-grain surfaces, which otherwise provide
a ready means for moisture to penetrate.
All protective timber finishes will degrade with exposure to solar radiation (sun) and weather. Surface
protection can be damaged by ivy and other creeping plants as well as the persistent damp conditions
encountered with heavy vegetation; where timber is in contact with the ground; or where water can pond
on its surface or around joints and connections. Rusting of nails, screws and fixings are an indicator or
water or moisture penetration, and that timber rot may be developing within the timber, however it will not
be possible to determine the extent of the damage from a visual inspection alone. External timber
elements will require regular maintenance to maintain a weather-protective finish.


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Decks and Balconies

The safety of elevated timber or concrete decks and balconies should be a primary concern of any
property owner.
A typical concrete cantilevered balcony has its main steel reinforcement at the top, and with normal
deflection a crack can develop in the concrete, just outside the wall of the building. Such a crack allows
moisture to penetrate the slab, resulting in corrosion that over time reduces the steels cross-sectional
area, and consequently the capacity of the balcony to carry its design load.
Timber members can rot or be subject to insect attack; whilst metal support brackets and fixings are prone
to rust or stress fractures.
A deck or balcony can be over stressed if under-designed for the loads imposed on it. This is not generally
a problem in more recently constructions where it has been designed by a structural engineer to meet
current building standards, but may be a concern in older properties, where the design may not have
anticipated its contemporary use (for instance a 21st birthday, teenage party, or family reunion).
All outdoor decks and balconies should be regularly checked for visible signs of deterioration. If in doubt,
seek the advice of a qualified Structural Engineer or Building Surveyor.
B. BUILDING REGULATIONS
Safety Warning - Building Code Changes
The Building Code of Australia (BCA) is regularly updated, making it likely that many properties will not
comply with current safety provisions. You are generally only required by law to bring the property up to
new standards when undertaking major renovation work, and as they are not building defects these
matters will not necessarily be identified in a pre-purchase building inspection; however there are a
number of elements you should consider upgrading from a safety and regulatory point of view.
Examples of Recent Provisions:
Where glass is within 500 mm of the floor or ground it will need to be generally of a greater
thickness than before, laminated or tempered safety glass, (exact requirements may vary
between States).
Handrails on balconies, porches, pathways etc which have a metre or more drop must now be
one metre in height themselves, be non-climbable and with maximum openings of 125 mm
between uprights or similar.
Party walls must now be built up to the underside of the roof lining or above, in all cases where
the wall has to be "fire-rated"(eg, walls between houses or units).
The installation of all "domestic solid fuel burning appliances" now needs a building permit for fire
safety reasons.
Toilet doors need to either open inwards within a 1.2m clear space, open outwards, slide, or be
readily removed off its hinges from the outside to allow emergency access to an unconscious
occupant.
Safety Warning- Pool Regulations

Due to numerous child drownings, regulations governing pool fencing have become stricter over recent
years. The intent of the Australian Standard AS1926 adopted by the Building Code of Australia (BCA) is to
prohibit a child's unsupervised access to swimming, wading pools, deep ponds or water features. Each
State's requirements are slightly different, with some mandating pool registration and/or inspections, so
check with your local council's building department for the relevant details. Fines are now in place for noncompliance.


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Safety Warning - Roofing

Falls from ladders and roofs are one of the main causes of serious injury in the home. Always employ safe
ladder-use practices. Do not access your roof unless it is safe to do so and fall prevention measures are in
place. If in doubt, call in a tradesman with appropriate expertise and equipment.
Safety Warning - Water Supply
Greywater diversion is increasingly popular, however it should be noted that dispersal of untreated wastewater onto open ground is a health hazard. Most waste-water is contaminated and should be treated to a
minimum standard before re-use. Contact your local council or water authority for advice.
Safety Warning - Security
Deadlocks, window locks and security bars can prevent escape from a burning building. Property owners
should be extremely careful not to lock themselves inside unless they are certain they can release the
locks immediately in the event of fire. Locks and security systems should be assessed prior to moving into
a newly purchased property.
Safety Warning - Fire Prevention
Hard-wired smoke alarms are mandatory in new homes and occupied buildings. We recommend that
hard-wired alarms be fitted to older homes as well, and that they be linked to a monitored security system if
present. Wireless alarms should have their batteries replaced regularly. Long-life lithium batteries are a
good option, while rechargeable batteries are not recommended.
An appropriately located, hand-held extinguisher and/or fire blanket is also recommended.
Safety Warning - Downlights
With downlights being a most popular, flexible and mood lighting choice for builders and renovators, extra
precautions need to be taken with installation to ensure that heat generated in the roof space does not
become a fire hazard when combined with combustible materials.
Insulation should be kept at least 50mm from recessed downlights, light transformers and the like, and
special fixed guards fitted where loose or fluff type insulation is installed. If not properly isolated from
the framing and ceiling, downlights which can produce temperatures in excess of 280 degrees Celsius overheating can start a fire that people cant see and that smoke alarms cant detect. Insulation of the
loose-fill type may come into contact with super-heated light fittings, particularly 'low-voltage' downlights.
Displaced bulk insulation can also present a serious fire risk. Further the fire retardants in some insulation
materials may deteriorate over time, meaning that potentially flammable materials may be in contact with
high temperature fittings. Roof voids should be checked regularly, particularly after periods of high winds,
or after tradespeoples access for other works, to ensure insulation remains clear of fittings.
Safety Warning Metal Foil Insulation
Foil insulation installed with metal fixings was identified as the cause of a number of electrical fires and
fatal elecrocutions in Queensland in 2009 -2010 following a surge in insulation projects, subsequent to
which metal fixings were banned. Do not enter roof spaces where foil insulation has been installed if in
doubt about the compliance of the installation until safety has been certified by a qualified electrician.


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Reduced Scrutiny by Authorities

The trend towards trade self certification rather than assessment by governing utilities (eg Water,
Electrical, Sewerage, Drainage Authorities) continues with certificates of compliance less the responsibility
of the utilities and more the responsibility of tradespeople. For your own protection you should ensure, that
electrical and plumbing work is only undertaken by contractors registered with their relevant authority usually denoted by a registration number, are insured against accident and negligence, and request a
compliance certificate at the work's completion.
Electrical wiring should not be attempted by amateurs. Any work suspected to have been carried out by
amateurs should be checked by a licensed contractor.
Residual Current Devices (RCDs) are now mandatory for new homes and Ask An Architect recommends
their installation in existing homes. Old fuses and switchboards are replaced as a matter of urgency.
Please Note: Your ArchiInspect property inspection is not an electrical safety inspection and Ask An
Architect strongly recommends an electrical safety inspection be carried out by a qualified electrician prior
to moving into your newly purchased property.
Builder/Owner-Builder Work
For residential construction, whether an owner-builder or contracted builder, a builder is responsible for the
quality, compliance, the suitability of their work for purpose, and in many States, are required to warrant
their work.
This broadly means the builder takes out insurance, on behalf of their client, so that even if the builder is no
longer solvent or in business, any major defects which become apparent within several years from
completion, can be remedied at no extra cost to the property owner.
The work must be of significant value to invoke this guarantee (eg. a minimum of $12,000 in Victoria), and
in some States, work like plumbing is exempted.
So when you engage a builder for significant work, make sure they are registered with the appropriate
authorities and the work is insured.
Owner-builders don't need to guarantee themselves that their building work is up to standard, but
depending on their State, they may still be required to comply with a number of regulatory conditions. In
Queensland, for example, they need a Building Services Authority owner-builder permit, while in other
States they must register as an owner-builder with the States building authority.
In most States, however, owner-builders are treated no differently than professional builders if selling the
property within six or seven years from the issue of the Certificate of Occupancy or Completion and need
to provide insurance to protect subsequent owners. In order to do so, it is necessary first for the vendor to
arrange for a building professional like Ask An Architect to undertake an inspection and report on the
building work, after which the relevant insurance may be obtained.
Each State's requirements for building guarantees are different, so check with your building surveyor or
your States building authority.
Illegal Construction
By law, illegal existing extensions, renovations, property improvements and repairs become the
responsibility of the property buyer. They may be dangerous, and if substandard, they may have to be
demolished prior to further building work.
Check with the vendor or your solicitor to ensure that all such works have been undertaken with the
required building approval or personally make building approval enquiries of your local council's building
department.


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TECHNICAL

This technical information booklet constitutes a vital part of Ask An

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Exposed timbers - cladding, fascias, pergolas, timber decks etc

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MAINTENANCE - INSIDE THE BUILDING

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Maintaining Ceilings and Walls

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FOOTINGS AND FOUNDATIONS

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THE FORM IT TAKES

What type of foundation material is my property built on and can it move?

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Mature Height (m)

(c) Damage caused by Solar Radiation

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Either solution requires design by an engineer and implementation by a

vertical or horizontal cracking at the joints between the sheets;

diagonal cracking radiating from the corner of windows or door frames;

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OTHER CAUSES OF CRACKING

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width less than 1mm

Fine cracks which do not need repair.

width less than 5mm

Noticeable cracks which can be readily filled.

width between 5mm

Cracks are repairable. Weather tightness may be impaired and

Extensive repairs required to walls and possibly to adjacent

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SELECTION OF STUMPS - VICTORIA

ABOVE: First Stage of Re-stumping If sub-floor access is

Cyprus pine is often selected for its termite

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In choosing the contractor, the following points

ABOVE: The Floor After Re-Stumping - Both concrete