Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Inputs
Energy
Sediment
Coastal system
Processes
Erosion
Transport
Deposition
Longshore drift
Where
waves
approach
the
coastline at an angle due to
prevailing wind direction, when they
break their swash pushes beach
material up the beach at the same
angle. The backwash then drags the
material
down
the
beach
perpendicular (at a 90 angle) to
the shore, following the line of the
Outputs
Coastal landforms of erosion
and deposition
Accumulations above the
tidal limit
within
the
system
through
fetches.
Within the UK, the west coast is a higher energy coast than the east coast. Westerly is
the direction of both prevailing and dominant wind direction; it is also the direction of
longest fetch. Maximum wave heights decrease from west to east and from north to
south across the British Isles away from exposure to the open ocean and onshore
westerly winds. Fetch is the limiting factor for the height of waves generated by
easterly winds in the North Sea. No matter how long an easterly gale blows, the waves
breaking against the eats coast can never reach the height of those from westerly
gales along the west coast. However, with waves of fifteen and more meters in height
occasionally recorded along the coast of Holderness, waves still have the power to
cause considerable erosion. The shores of Europes almost enclosed seas, such as the
Mediterranean
and Baltic,
are
low
direction
can
also
reduce
Why do extreme events such as storm surges, only occur when a combination of
Explain why ;
i) the British Isles is an area of the world associated with high energy coasts
ii) coasts with the highest energy are located on the western sides of the British Isles.
will return sand to the beach. As mentioned earlier, sand effectively armors the shore
against wave attack and erosion.
It is only because most people see coasts as broadly stable over the human life span
that they do not recognise that coastal change is constant and that; over the longterm, commonly inevitable. Rates of change differ substantially over space and time.
Although rates are generally slow on a human timescale and are governed by many
cumulative events, occasionally earthquakes, other geological forces or storms can
dramatically change coastlines within a few hours or minutes. Some factors, such as
periods of increased rainfall, storminess, or sea-level rise may increase rates of
change.
Normally a typical beach will develop and dissipate on a steady cycle lasting several
years as littoral transport drives waves of sand southwards, this allows intermittent
but steady erosion of the foreshore. Storm conditions can however cause rapid changes
in beach profile by drawing sand offshore, possibly stripping a beach of all its sand in a
single tide. During this time continued rough seas can cause rapid erosion of the newly
exposed clay. Recovery from such an event can then take several months as calmer seas
return sand to the upper beach. As can be seen opposite these changes in beach profile
can be seen as a seasonal beach response, this accounts for the increased erosion rates
recorded over the winter months.
The concept of equilibrium
Coasts are dynamic and they change frequently. These changes are principally caused
by changes in energy conditions such as wave energy eg. Which may increase during
storms. The morphology of the coast responds to changes in energy because it aims to
exist in a state of equilibrium with the reigning processes. However, there are three
types of equilibrium.
1.) Steady state equilibrium.
This refers to a situation where variations in energy and the morphological response
do not deviate too far from the long-term average. Eg. Along a coast that
experiences relatively consistent wave energy conditions, the gradient of a beach
may be steeper at certain times of the year and shallower at others but the
average annual gradient is similar from year to year.
2. Meta-stable equilibrium
This exists where an environment switches from two or more states of equilibrium
the switch stimulates by some sort of trigger. An example of this includes the
action of high energy events such as storms/tsunamis. Which can very rapidly
switch a coastal system from one state of equilibrium to another by removing or
supplying large volumes of beach sediment for example. Also, human activity often
has this effect on coastal environments.
3. Dynamic equilibrium
Like meta stable equilibrium, this too involves a change in equilibrium conditions but
in a much more gradual manner. A good example is the response of coasts to the
gradual rise in sea levels that were experienced through the twentieth century as a
result of climate change.
Equilibrium beach
profile
Anticyclone
conditions
reduction in wave
energy
As beach profile
steepens, backwash
strength increases
http://www.nelsonthornes.com/aqagcse/samples/GCSE%20geog%20sample%20l.r.pd
The Waves
The Dynamic
Equilibrium is
affected by
The Sea Level
Wave types
Waves are undulations of the
water surface caused by winds
blowing
across
the
sea.
They
recognisable
waves.
The
Wavelength
Wave Characteristics
distance
between
successive
wave crests.
Wave height (H) is the vertical
distance between a wave trough
and a wave crest.
Wave steepness is the ratio of
wave
height
Powerful
to
waves
wavelength.
are
steep
Fetch, wind direction and wind strength are the main factors determining the
height and energy of breaking waves. Fetch is the distance of uninterrupted
water surface over which the wind has blown to form the waves. The loner the
length of open water over which the winds travel, the longer the fetch and the
greater the amount of energy released when waves break in the coastal zone.
Classifying waves
A common classification for waves is into destructive (plunging breakers) and
constructive (spilling breakers), although not all waves are as easy to distinguish
as this simple classification suggests.
Destructive waves:
Constructive waves:
When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach: this is called the swash.
Then the water runs back down the beach: this is called the backwash. With a
constructive wave, the swash is stronger than the backwash. With a destructive
wave, the backwash is stronger than the swash.
A destructive wave
All the energy accumulated by movement is released when the wave breaks.
Since destructive waves are high and short, there is a sudden impact of water
upon whatever the breaking wave hits. These waves are sufficiently high for the
water motion to be almost circular so that the great force of water is directed
downwards when they break. This gives a strong backwash, which increases the
likelihood of loose material being clawed back down the beach into the sea.
A constructive wave
In contrast, the more elliptical shape of water movement in a constructive wave
means that the forward movement of the breaking wave is more pronounced
than its downward force. By breaking forwards a strong swash is pushed up the
beach, while the energy of the backwash is reduced as water seeps into the
sand and shingle. Not all the loads is carried back to the sea. This promotes
deposition.
Abrasion (also
known as
Corrasion)
Hydraulic action
Corrosion
-Rock on cliff
- High-energy waves pick up shingle
and abrade the base of the cliffs. The
result is a wave-cut notch. The cliff is
undermined and retreats through
rockfall leaving a wave cut platform.
- Pressuring
- The water traps air in cracks and
caves in the rock.
- Air and water are forced under
pressure into joints and bedding planes
in the rocks. The rocks weaken and
collapse.
The
effectiveness
of
hydraulic action depends on the
density of the joints, etc.
- Rusting / dissolving
-Salt in the seawater slowly dissolves
the cliffs.
- Some rock minerals are susceptible
to solution.
Attrition:
Sub-Aerial
processes:
- Rock on rock
- Particles carried by the waves crash
against each other and are broken up
into smaller particles.
Wave Pounding:
Lithology
This describes the mechanical and chemical properties of rocks. Coherent rocks
which have interlocking crystals, strongly cemented particles and a few lines of
weakness (joints and faults), resist erosion and support steep angled slopes.
Most igneous and metamorphic rocks are highly resistant. So, too, are some
sedimentary rocks such as Old Red Sandstone. In contrast incoherent rocks,
such as clay and sands, erode more easily. Sometimes this results in low-angles
cliff profiles. However, weak rocks undercut by wave action often fail by
slumping. The result may be almost vertical cliff profiles.
Structure
1. Vertical cliffs
Few weaknesses are exposed to wave attack. The slow rate of collapse means
that rock broken off in cliff collapses can be removed quickly to leave a clean
face.
Cliffs withhard
variations
a2.
In homogenous,
rocks or in steepness
bIn resistant rocks with a
cIn hard rocks with horizontal
resistant
rocks such
chalk
angle
dip towards
bedsresistances
which lead to
to jagged,
These cliffs
areas composed
ofsteep
layers
ofofrock
with different
the
sea
vertical
cliff
faces
erosion.
bInactive
cliffs little or
unaffected by present wave
action. Increasing freedom
from wave attack results in a
decline in profile steepness.
cOnly
Landward-dipping strata for less steep cliffs. This is because eroded and
weathered rock particles are not easily dislodged from the cliff face.
At a regional scale, the
direction in which rocks run in
relation to the coast has a
strong
influence
on
the
planform of coastlines Rock
outcrops which run parallel to
the coastlines. Rock outcrops
which run parallel to the coast
often
produce
straight
coastlines. There are known as
accordant coasts. When rocks
of different types crop out at
right angles to the coast, the
resultant planform is more
varied.
Here
the
more
resistant rocks form headlands
and the less resistant ones
form bays. Such coastlines are called discordant.The area of south-east Dorset
known as the Isle of Purbeck has examples of both accordant and discordant
coastlines.
Sub-aerial processes
The effects of non-marine processes in the coast zone can be observes most
clearly on cliff tops. Here various types of weathering and mass movement are
the main determinants of morphology, although undermining by waves at the
bottom of the cliff encourages earlier and more rapid movement at the top.
These are grouped together under the label sub-aerial processes which literally
means those occurring at the base of the atmosphere. The influence of subaerial processes such as mass movement and weathering is particularly evident
on incoherent rocks. Heavy rainfall is the trigger for many movements. In coast
zones where weak or unconsolidated clays and sands form the surface outcrops,
heavy rainfall alone can lead to direct erosion on the cliff face from sheet wash
and the flow of rivulets. In times of stronger flow this leads to gulleying.
Water seeping into the ground during and after periods of rain produces a
saturated mass which slides down the cliff, leaving a pile of loose material at
the bottom of the cliff, which the wave sat high tide soon remove. In the UK
most cliff tops are vegetation covered which delays but does not stop mass
movements. Soil creep is taking place on even the gentlest of slopes, albeit
slowly. Slides occur from time to time on slopes where surface layers of grass
and soil are thin. After periods of prolonged and heavy rainfall, when the ground
has absorbed all the water it can take, the weight of the saturated soil becomes
too great and it tears away the grass at the top of the slope. Once its hold upon
the top of the slope is broke, the mass easily slides over the wet surface below,
particularly where it overlies unconsolidated rocks such as boulder clay and
glacial sands.
Slumping is another type of mass movement that occurs in the coast zone.
Slumps are distinguished from slides by the element of rotation in the flow of
the mass as it moves down a curves slip plane. Many slumps are triggered off by
undercutting at the base of the cliffs, so that the mass becomes unsupported.
Movement by the mass is encouraged by previous saturation from heavy rains
creating a well-lubricated plane of movement.
Wave energy
Coastlines with long fetches experience high wave energy. Wave energy is also
higher on windward coasts than on sheltered leeward coasts. Many tropical
islands which are exposed to the prevailing trade winds receive higher wave
energy. On higher-energy coasts, the effect of erosion on the cliff profiles
tends to be greater than the effect of sub-aerial processes. Along such
coastlines, rockfalls are easily removed by wave action, allowing erosion to begin
again.
Low-energy coastlines have one or more of the following characteristics: a short
fetch, a sheltered situation, and shallow water offshore which absorbs wave
energy. In low-energy situations, sub-aerial processes may begin to dominate.
Rock debris may accumulate at the cliff base, and the cliff slope angles may be
lowered by weathering and mass movement.
Human activity
Much building and recreation occurs at the coast, and this increases pressure on
cliff tops, making them more liable to erosion and subsidence. The building of
sea defences upsets the
dynamic equilibrium of the
coastline
Wave refraction
It is very rare for waves to
approach a regular uniform
coastline, as most have a
variety of bays, beaches
and headlands.Because of
these features, the depth
of water around a coast
varies and as a wave
approaches a coast its
progress is modified due to
friction from the seabed,
halting the motion of waves.
As waves approach a coast they are refracted so that their energy is
concentrated around headlands but reduced around bays. Waves then tend to
approach coastline parallel to it, and their energy decreases as water depth
decreases.
The continued temperature change and subsequent sea level rise will increase
the hazards of coastal flooding and erosion. Worldwide, up to 100 million people
living in low-lying coastal areas could be at risk. The UK is not immune to these
problems. Rising sea-level and more frequent storms are likely to increase
damage to coastal settlements, harbours and other infrastructional features. In
some places the coastline may retreat by up to a kilometre or more. South-east
Britain is most vulnerable to flooding. Rising sea-levels in the South-east would
be made worse because the region is also sinking as the process of isostatic
readjustment continues. Beaches, slat marshes, sand dunes and mudflats the
coasts natural defences are threatened by rising sea-levels. Indeed, almost
one-third of EU beaches are already thought to be eroding.
Drowned Coasts:
Caused by pre-glacial erosion of a Sea Level rise after the last Ice Age
coastline.
caused estuaries and inlets to be
flooded.
During the Ice Age the sea levels fall
leaving the old coastline high above This occurred in South West England,
the present sea level.
drowning many river valleys around
the coasts of Devon and Cornwall, and
Since the end of the Ice Age sea creating Rias.
levels have risen again, but not to
their previous levels.
In other, more northern areas, glacial
valleys were drowned to create
The raised beaches continue to be Fjords.
above the present sea level by quite a
distance.
Landform 2: Spits
- A long, narrow ridge of sand attached at one end to the coast.
- Built up by long shore drift transporting material along the coast.
- At a bend or break (for an estuary) in the coastline the material being carried
is dropped. However it is deposited away from the coastline.
- As the spit builds out to sea the end is affected more by the wind and by wave
currents, causing the end to curve towards the shore, to create a hook end.
- Material often accumulates in the area of standing water that occurs behind a
spit, and this can lead to the formation of salt marshes.
- Spits can be areas where large sand dunes build up, nearer the back of it.
An example is Spurn Head, Humberside.
Landform 3: Bars
- A ridge of sand that blocks off a bay or river mouth. It will create a lagoon
behind it is across a non-river bay.An example of a sand bar is SlaptonLey in
Devon.
Landform 4: Tombolos
- A tombolo is a depositionlandform
such as a spit or bar which forms a
narrow piece of land between an island
or offshore rock and a mainland shore,
or between two islands or offshore
rocks. They usually form because the
island causes waverefraction, depositing
sand and shingle moved by longshore
drift in each direction around the island
where the waves meet. Eustatic sea
level rise may also contribute to accretion as material is pushed up with rising
sea levels. This is the case with Chesil Beach which connects the Isle of
Portland to Dorset in England which is notable as the shingle ridge is parallel
rather than perpendicular to the coast.
the stages in sequences of coastal erosion at different points along the coast
which are relatively close to one another.
Stair Hole
The early stages can be seen in that
stretch of coastline near Lulworth Cove.
Here, Stair Hole can be found where
the limestone ridge has been breached,
but not removed. Weaknesses in the
ridge were exploited by waves, which
opened up access to the next layer of rock which is softer. The limestone has
been left exposed as a narrow ridge while the less resistant Wealden Sands and
clays behind it have been more rapidly eroded. Wave erosion is now
concentrated in a west to east direction following the line of the weaker
Wealden beds. I9nland the cliff tops are being attacked by sub aerial processes
leading to gulleying and slumping in the weak sands and clays.
Lulworth Cove
This symmetrical bay is more circular and more enclosed than those typically
found along discordant coastlines. This is because it has been easier for waves
to extend it in a west to east direction following the line of the les resistant
Wealden Beds. The gap in the limestone across the entrance is its narrowest
part, while the rates of erosion on the chalk at the back of the bay are lower
than those on the sands and clay at the sides.
Further west, St. Oswalds Bay shows what happens next. This is a double bay
formed by the amalgamation of two coves. The only sign that remains of the
limestone barrier that formerly protected the coast from erosion is the line of
rock stacks east from Durdle Door. The final stage, the return of an almost
straight coastline, is exemplified by the stretch of coast west of Durdle Door.
Apart from the rock promontory and natural arch at Durdle Door, the only
remnants of the limestone ridge are out to sea.
http://www.bennett.karoo.net/topics/waves.html
type/differential erosion) and human reasons (coastal land values and cost/benefits) as to
why rapid coastal erosion was more problematic in some places than others, and also
looked at knock on effects such as terminal groyne syndrome. Again reference to the
shoreline managements plans was useful.
An example of a sound essay which achieved level 3 marks is shown below:
Holderness Coast There is a major problem with erosion on some parts of the Holderness
coast which overall is the fastest eroding coast in the United Kingdom (2m per year). At
different parts of the coast there is different amounts of erosion. Firstly there is
Flamborough Head, there is very little erosion here because the land is made up of chalk
and this means it is a hard rock and it is not easily eroded. However as you go down the
coast you come to parts of the coast which is made up of boulder clay which is very weak
as it contains 60% clay which is unconsolidated and easily eroded. Places such as
Mappleton and Hornsea have problems with erosion. Hornsea is a holiday town and
because of this erosion they have had to put up sea walls into the cliff and groynes onto
the beach so protecting the coast. At Mappleton they have put in rock revetments and
rock groynes in order to protect a coastal road as erosion is a big problem. This has led to
knock-on impacts down the coast. There are also problems down the coast at Easington
where a gas terminal can be found. Here there is severe erosion because the cliffs are
made of clay. This means that when it is eroded it does not create a beach and the beach
is the best form of coastal defence. Instead there is clay which creates no protection and
because of this rock armour has had to be placed at the foot of the cliff and they are
building a tyre reef. Finally there is Spurn Head which is a spit at the end of this coast
where all the eroded material is deposited. Although rapid erosion can occur in times of
storms currently this area has been designated as a do nothing zone.