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A portfolio of exotic butters and oils

for cosmetic formulations

JARCHEM
INNOVATIVE
INGREDIENTS
JARCHEM INDUSTRIES, INC.
An ISO 9001:2000 Company
414 Wilson Avenue
Newark, NJ 07105
Phone: 973-344-0600 Fax: 973-344-5743
E-mail: info@jarchem.com
Website: www.jarchem.com/cosmetics

THE JARPLEX EXOTIC BUTTER PORTFOLIO:


BUILDING BETTER BUTTERS
FOR COMPLEX COSMETIC FORMULATIONS
Jarchem Industries, Inc., supplier of innovative and specialty ingredients for the cosmetics and
personal care industry, is proud to offer the broadest selection of exotic butter products for all
your formulation needs, made with the highest-quality raw materials. Our Jarplex exotic butter
portfolio features shea, cocoa, illipe, and mango butters with distinctive properties that lend
themselves to a wide range of cosmetic and personal care applications.
The Jarplex exotic butter portfolio offers the following benefits: responds to consumers desire
for exotic new natural emollients, strong functionality and performance due to high amounts of
unsaponifiables and other beneficial natural components, and increased temperature stability and
shelf life in the final product. Jarchem continues to build better butters to help you solve your
complex formulation needs.

CHOOSING THE BEST BUTTER


The breadth of Jarchems exotic butter portfolio makes it easy for producers of cosmetic and
personal care products to find the right formulation for their desired application. Jarplex exotic
butters exhibit a range of melting characteristics that have an impact on skin feel and absorption
characteristics of the end product.
JARPLEX Butter
Melt Profiles
70 %

60 %

SB35

SB35

50 %

% Solid

There are a number of ways to define melting


characteristics of butters and fats, including the slip
melting point (SMP), which identifies a point of
transition from solid to liquid corresponding to
roughly 20-25% solid, and the mettler drop point
(MDP), which pinpoints the temperature of
complete melting (0% solid). Although these
methods convey useful information about a
particular butters formulation, a melting profile
provides a better picture of how a butter reacts to a
range of conditions, enabling identification of the
performance characteristics that best suit the needs
of specific applications. The chart on the right
illustrates the melting profiles of two Jarplex shea
butter products.

SB15

40 %

SB15
30 %

20 %

10 %

0%

0 C

5 C

10 C

15 C

20 C

25 C

Temperature

30 C

35 C

40 C

45 C

JARPLEX SHEA BUTTERS


Shea Butter Benefits
Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) is a vegetable fat extracted from the fruit of the Shea tree
(Butyrospermum parkii), which grows in sub-Saharan Africa. There, shea butter has been used
for hundreds of years as an emollient and as an agent in skin healing and protection.
The cosmetic and personal care industries have long recognized shea butter as an excellent
emollient for personal care applications. Recently, a number of studies have indicated that
substances contained in the unsaponifiable component of shea butter convey additional
dermatological benefits. Shea butters typically contain 6%-8% unsaponifiable fraction, of which
there is about 60%-70% triterpene alcohols (alpha-amyrin, beta-amyrin, lupeol, and
butyrospermol). There is also approximately 100-200 ppm tocopherols. The triterpene alcohols
lupeol and alpha- and beta-amyrin have been shown to have a positive effect on collagen
regeneration and keratinocyte proliferation in skin as well as measurable anti-inflammatory
effects, while the cinnamic acid esters of the triterpene alcohols show strong absorbance of UV
radiation at critical wavelengths.1-3

Shea Butter Applications


The unique combination of triglycerides and minor
lipid components found in Jarplex shea butters, along
with their high quality and superior formulating
properties, make our products an ideal choice for
functional cosmetic applications. Furthermore, the
Jarplex shea butters rich content of bioactive triterpene
esters, such as lupeol and amyrin cinnamate, provides
beneficial effects including anti-irritancy and antiinflammatory properties and enhanced UV-B
protection.
Currently, Jarplex shea butters find application in a
wide range of cosmetic and skin care formulations.
Lipsticks and lip balms, body butters and creams,
massage oils, shampoos and hair conditioners, body
cleansers, sunscreens, and face and body lotions are
among the products that include shea butter as an active
ingredient.

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The Jarplex Shea Portfolio


Jarplex shea butters feature a broad spectrum of products with characteristics suitable for diverse
applications.
Jarplex SB10
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) Liquid Lo-Freeze
This easy-to-formulate liquid shea butter has
a melt point of 0C to 10C. Jarplex SB10
is ideal for spray formulations and stays
completely liquid in cold temperatures. It is
an excellent moisturizer for spray-on
sunscreens. Jarplex SB10 can be used from
1% to 100%.

Jarplex SB15
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) Liquid
An easy-to-formulate liquid shea butter with a melt point of 15C, Jarplex SB15 is ideal for
cream lotions that require a light feel, and for use as a viscosity adjuster for body butters. It
makes an excellent moisturizer for massage oils. Jarplex SB15 can be used from 1% to 100%.
Jarplex SB30
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) - Solid
Our traditional shea butter also comes in a certified organic formulation. Appropriate for all
applications, Jarplex SB30 contains all the natural benefits of shea butter.
Jarplex SB35
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) Solid
A creamy refined shea butter with superior crystallization properties, Jarplex SB35 is especially
well suited for use in formulations with higher (>20%) concentrations of shea butter. Jarplex
SB35 ensures more reliable visual and skin feel aesthetics over a wide range of conditions. It is
also excellent for structure-sensitive stick and pencil formulations. Jarplex SB35 contains all
the natural benefits of shea butter. Where slow crystallization can cause problems, such as
graininess and white spots known as bloom, Jarplex SB35 crystallizes and stabilizes quickly
for a uniform, consistent texture, even in products with a high vegetable lipid content, such as
body butters and balms.
Jarplex SB45
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) - Semi-Solid
Jarplex SB45 offers unique and valuable physical properties. This product has a melt point of
45C but is soft at room temperature. Designed to provide attractive skin feel for super-high shea
content (>75%) formulations, Jarplex SB45 provides great flexibility in maximizing shea
loading and functional skin benefits, while providing a softer feel.

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Jarplex SB60
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii)- Powder
Our new powder form of shea butter consists of
100% shea butter in a SiO2 carrier. Jarplex
SB60 is an easy-to-use powder formulation that
is ideal for color cosmetics, eye shadows, and
other applications.
Jarplex SB-WD
Shea Butter Glycerides
Semi-solid Jarplex SB-WD is our
proprietary, patent-pending, non-ethoxylated,
water-dispersible shea butter. This versatile
ingredient delivers high levels of shea
unsaponifiables to a wide range of aqueous
formulations. Used at 25% alone in water,
produces a unique, non-greasy, and soothing
rapid absorbing lotion.

JARPLEX Shea Butter


Melt Profiles
80 %

SB10
SB45

70 %
60 %

SB15
SB30

SB35

SB35

SB30

SB45

% Solid

50 %

SB-WD

40 %
SB15

SB-WD

30 %
20 %
10 %
0%
0 C

SB10

5 C

10 C

15 C

20 C

25 C

Temperature

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30 C

35 C

40 C

45 C

50 C

JARPLEX COCOA BUTTER


Cocoa Butter Benefits and Applications
Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) also has long been valued for its moisturizing and lubricating
properties. A vegetable fat extracted from the fruit of the Cacao tree (Theobroma cacao), cocoa
butter reduces cutaneous dryness and improves skin elasticity. Cocoa butter is used to add
consistency to cosmetic and skin care products such as ointments, lipsticks, balms, and creams.
Containing tocopherols and polyphenols,
which have been shown to have
antioxidant properties, Jarchems
Jarplex cocoa butter is an excellent
choice for high-quality products with
moisturizing, conditioning, soothing, and
softening applications.

Jarplex CB30 Cocoa Butter


Jarplex CB30 cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) provides superior performance in creams,
lotions, body butters, deodorants, lipsticks, and lip balms. Due to its neutral color and low odor,
Jarplex CB30 is ideal for use in cosmetics and toiletries where addition of extraneous color or
odor would be problematic. Jarplex CB30 offers superior softness, temperature stability, and
consistency for a broad range of applications. When applied to the skin, Jarplex CB30 melts
smoothly, resulting in a long-lasting, soft skin feel.

JARPLEX ILLIPE BUTTER


Illipe Butter Benefits and Applications
Illipe butter (Shorea stenoptera) is a solid, lightyellow vegetable fat extracted from the seeds of the
Illipe tree (Shorea stenoptera). It is highly regarded
for its moisturizing and skin softening properties, and
its triglyceride composition is close to that of cocoa
butter. The cosmetics and skin care industries have
recently begun to introduce illipe butter as an
ingredient in products such as nourishing creams and
lotions, sunscreens, hair masks and conditioners, bar
soaps, and lipsticks and lip balms.

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Jarplex IB30 Illipe Butter


Jarplex IB30 illipe butter (Shorea stenoptera) provides skin-soothing effects and reinforces the
skin lipid barrier. The chemical composition of Jarplex IB30 closely resembles that of cocoa
butter, although Jarplex IB30 has a slightly higher melting point. Jarplex IB30 is harder than
most other exotic butters, but it still melts on contact with skin.
Jarplex IB30 is suitable for use in lipsticks, balms, make-up foundations, hair conditioners, bar
soaps, creams and lotions, and stick-type body care applications, and can be used at
concentrations from 3% to 100%.

JARPLEX MANGO BUTTERS


Mango Butter Benefits and Applications
Mango butter is extracted from the fruit kernels of the
Mango tree (Mangifera indica). It has been
traditionally used in the rainforests and tropics for its
skin softening, soothing, moisturizing, and protective
properties and to restore flexibility and reduce
degeneration of skin cells. Mango butter is nongreasy, absorbs easily into the skin, and provides a
protective effect against UV radiation. Studies have
indicated that the high content of unsaponifiable
material found in mango butter contributes to emollient
properties, high oxidative ability, wound healing, and
regenerative capabilities. Mango butter is appropriate
for both dermatological and hair care applications.

Jarplex MB20 Mango Liquid


Jarplex MB20 mango liquid (Mangifera indica) is an oil fractionation that results from the
production of mango butter. The buttery oil that constitutes Jarplex MB20 is refined and
deodorized to yield a soft yellow, semi-solid, non-crystallizing oil. Jarplex MB20 offers a
beautiful emolliency with a buttery feel, and melts immediately and disperses evenly upon
contact with the skin. A high-oleic oil, Jarplex MB20 is resistant to oxidation and offers a
prolonged shelf life. In lotions, creams, balms, and bar soaps, Jarplex MB20 offers
moisturizing and emollient properties that combat cutaneous dryness due to sun, wind, or water
exposure. In hair masks and conditioners, Jarplex MB20 contributes to hair softening,
smoothing, and shine.

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Jarplex MB35 Mango Butter


Jarplex MB35 mango butter (Mangifera indica) consists of vegetable fat that has been extracted
from the fruit kernels of the Mango tree and refined and deodorized to yield a pale yellow, semisolid fat. Jarplex MB35 nourishes and moisturizes the skin and offers a beautiful emolliency
with a buttery feel. High in stearic and oleic fatty acids, Jarplex MB35 melts immediately and
disperses evenly upon contact with the skin.
Jarplex MB35 is appropriate for use in lotions, creams, and balms. With its high content of
stearic and oleic fatty acids, Jarplex MB35 offers moisturizing and emollient properties that
combat cutaneous dryness due to sun, wind, or water exposure.

JARPLEX Exotic Butter


Melt Profiles
100 %

MB35

% Solid

90 %
80 %

IB30

70 %

CB30

60 %

SB35

CB30

MB35

50 %

MB20

40 %

SB35

MB20

30 %
20 %

IB30

10 %
0%
0 C

5 C

10 C

15 C

20 C

25 C

30 C

35 C

40 C

45 C

50 C

Temperature

REFERENCES:
1. Fernndez MA, de las Heras B,Garca MD, Senz MT, Villar A. New insights into the mechanism of action of
the anti-inflammatory triterpene lupeol. J Pharm Pharmacol 2001;53(11):1533-39.
2. Pillai S, Oresajo C, Haward J. Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation
and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation a review. Int J
Cosmet Sci 2005;27(1):17-34.
3. Lamaud ME, Miskulin M, Robert AM, Wepierre J. [Biochemical modifications of connective tissue induced by
the non-saponifiables of avocado and soya-bean oils administered percutaneously in the "Hairless" rat]. Pathol Biol
(Paris) 1978 May-Jun;26(5):269-74.

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INNOVATIONS IN EXOTIC BUTTERS


Jarchem has been supplying high-quality ingredients for the production of cosmetic products
since 1978. We are proud of our reputation as a dependable supplier of traditional emollients,
natural products, and other ingredients, and we continue to develop new offerings for our
cosmetic and personal care customers.
Jarchem is just now introducing a new line of socially and environmentally responsible
ingredients from the Amazonian rainforest. Murumuru, cupuau, and ucuba butters make our
line of specialty butters truly global.
To keep abreast of Jarchems new product offerings, visit our website
(www.jarchem.com/cosmetics). New products are first detailed in our Technical Update
emailings. You can sign up to receive these valuable announcements on our website.
We also offer more detailed data on all our products (including product specifications) through
our members-only JarLink membership. Visit www.jarchem.com/cosmetics and click on the
JarLink membership button to join.
Call your Jarchem representative to find out how Jarchem Industries is . . .

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