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In these photographs, Charlotte Kelly has attempted to unite the ideas formally
used by the Avant Garde feminists, a popular movement in the 1970s. This was
shown through the composition of her photographs, and how the subjects were
presented. An important element of these photos is the use of lighting, the harsh
light highlights all the features of the subjects face, showing them in the plainest
light. Drawing attention to one of the subjects, we can see how an excessive
amount of makeup has been smeared down their face; Kelly was quoted to say
The make-up was symbolic for the way women are presented, how they have to
look perfect, the smearing of it was symbolic for the destruction of these ideal.
With this part of the shoot, Kelly has taken inspiration from Cindy Sherman, a
photographer who belonged to the Avant Garde movement, and notoriously
took self-portraits, presenting herself in different ways using make up
symbolically. Her most famous work, Untitled Film Stills, shown below, is a
huge influence on this shoot. The use of black and white film, as well as the
symbolic use of makeup, can be directly compared to Kellys work, particularly
with this subject.
In another image, we can see the other subject smoking. The idea of a woman
smoking challenges the stereotypical image of femininity, blatantly contrasted
with the flowers; a universal symbol for the celebration of femininity. This work
can once again can be seen to take inspiration from another photographer,
Eleanor Antin. This photographer most famously took photographs of a woman
dressed as a king, as if taking on the roles of a man. Although the compositions
of the photographs are different, they represent the same message. A direct
comparison between the two photographs is the small indication of femininity, to
contrast the masculine representation. In Antins photograph, it is the hair and
makeup of the subject, directly contrasted with the masculine beards and
clothing. In Kellys photograph, it is the flower in the subjects hair, which directly
contrasts the smoking.