Embroidery Club

Woodblocks and Etchings

$19.95

EMBROIDERY CLUB #75

Designed by Marie Duncan and Digitized by Diana Cedolia

Let me show you my etchings takes on a whole new

meaning when they are embroidered! Our woodblock

designs were inspired by the delicate images resulting from
wood block prints and etchings. They are light in nature,
and beautiful for any purpose! We used them on cards, a
sweater, and for our main project, a shade! Have Fun!

#711 040100

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Project

Embroidered Window Shade

Sewing Supplies:
June Tailor Fusible Shade Kit
Fabric to cover shade, amount dependent on size
Assorted 30 wt. cotton or rayon embroidery threads
Tear-A-Way Light
Fabric Marking Pen
Dowel or decorative rod, with decorative ends

Embroider
1. The borders are designed to connect to each other. Its
easy to match the designs, if you follow these guidelines:
2. Cut your fabric 2 bigger all the way around, than your
shade. Hoop Tear-A-Way Light stabilizer. There are various sizes of the designs, depending on your hoop size.
Use the largest you can, and if necessary, use a small one
at the end, if a large one wont t.
3. Mark a line with a wash out, or air soluble fabric marking pen about 4 up from the bottom of your fabric. Using
a pencil, mark a line on your stabilizer, connecting the top and bottom hoop
marks. Line those lines up with the line on your fabric. Your rst design should
be 1 from the edge of the fabric. Baste the shade fabric into position. Stitch the
rst design.
4. To line up the next border, do not remove the basting. Just cut the stabilizer,
close to the basting stitches. Then use the basting stitch from the rst design, to
check alignment for the next one. Hoop Tear-A-Way Light again, and mark the
line. Plus forward until the needle goes to the rst stitch in the corner, where it
will meet the previous basting mark. Lower the needle into the fabric. Align the
line on the fabric up with the line on the stabilizer. Carefully pin the fabric to the
stabilizer with a straight pin, out of the embroidery area. Be careful not to tear the
stabilizer. Baste the fabric in place. Your basting outlines, should line up exactly.
If not, remove the basting steps and repeat. Check your manual and/or dealer for
other ways to line up designs, for your machine.
5. Continue stitching the border designs across the shade to the opposite side. You
probably will not come out exact. The embroidery will run to the edge on each
side, so it wont matter. If necessary, to stitch the last design, baste a temporary
extension to the edge of the fabric.

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Embroider the tabs:

1. Cut pieces of fabric 10 x 10. Hoop Tear-A-Way Light Stabilizer. Embroider one of the square designs, 940101 or 940102 on the upper portion of the
fabric. As shown. Embroider enough tabs, to go across the bottom of your
shade, with 8 to 10 between them.

2. Trim the embroidered tabs down to 8 1/4 wide by 8 1/4 long. The embroidery should be 3/4 from the top.

3. Fold right sides together, and sew the edges together, to form a tube. Press the seam open, then
turn, and press at.

Assemble the shade:

1. Trim the shade fabric to size, centering the embroidered border. It should extend to the edge of
the shade. You will probably need to cut through the embroidery at one end. If you do, apply
Fray Block to the area where you will be cutting. Allow to dry. Then cut with a rotary cutter.
2. Follow the manufacturers directions and fuse the fabric to the shade.
3. Fold the tabs in half, matching the raw edges. With the designs against
the right side of the shade, pin them in place, equally spaced across the
shade. Place the outside tabs far enough in, so that the ends of the rod,
will be even with the edge of the shade. Of the decorative end on your
rod is 1, the tabs need to be 1 1/2 in from the ends to allow room for
the decorative rod ends. Most shades are hung inside the window frame,
and the end of the lower decorative rod needs to be even with the end of
the shade. If yours hangs out further, you can have the rod extend out
further.
4. Cut a strip of fabric 1 1/2 wide, by the width of your shade plus 1/2
for the bottom casing.
5. Fold under 1/4 of the long edge, on the casing strip to the wrong side.
Press. Press under the ends of the strip 1/4. Place the un-pressed edge
of the casing strip on right side down, on the bottom of the shade, over the pinned tabs. Stitch with a 1/4 seam
allowance.
6. Fold to the wrong side, and press. The tabs will extend down, ready for the rod. Stitch the casing in place and
insert the stick that comes with the shade kit.
7. Hang the shade and insert the decorative rod through the tabs!

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Quick Project

Embroidered Sweater and Cards

What fun to embellish a plain sweater, for you, or for a gift! Its quick
and easy!

Sewing Supplies:
Purchased cardigan sweater smooth texture, ne knit
Sulky 30 wt. Cotton Thread or 30 wt. Sulky Rayon Thread
Schmetz size 90/14 Topstitch Needle
1/2 yard Fusible Tricot Interfacing
Sulky Solvy Water Soluble Stabilizer
Light Weight Tear Away Stabilizer

Prepare the Sweater for Embroidery:

Check to see which way the interfacing stretches. You want to cut the
interfacing so that the least stretchy part of the interfacing is going the
same way as the stretchiest part of the sweater. We want to stabilize
the sweater so it doesnt stretch, as you are embroidering.

Embroider:
1. Hoop two layers of light weight tear away stabilizer.
2. Choose the border design you would like to embroider.
3. Thread with 30 wt. Cotton Sulky or 30 wt. Sulky Rayon thread on top and bobbin thread in the bobbin.
4. Begin with the left side of the sweater. Place your printed template on the sweater, so the top of the design is just
below the shoulder seam on V-necks, or the top ribbing on crew-necks. When you have it the correct position,
place pins, on the cross hair markings, top, bottom, left and right. Remove the template.
5. If you place the sweater on the hoop, as it is, all the bulk of the sweater is between the hoop and the machine.
There is no where for it to go, and it is very awkward. Rotate the design so it is upside down. You can now turn
the sweater around, so the bulk of the sweater is to the left of the machine, and is placed on the hoop upside
down. Line up the pins with the marks on the hoop. Pin, through the stabilizer, top and bottom. Place Solvy on
top of the sweater, and baste the sweater and the Solvy to the stabilizer. Embroider the rst design.
6. To line up the second, place the template on the sweater, so the designs just meet. You will have to fudge a
little on a V neck, because of the angle. When you have it in the right position, place your pins, marking the top,
bottom, left and right cross hair lines. Hoop as before, and embroider. Repeat for the remaining repeat. If you
dont have enough room for a full repeat, use one of the small designs to ll in the bottom.
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7. Right side of sweater: Mirror Image the template. You can do this several ways. Mark around the outline of the
design with a black marker, so you can see through to the other side. Trace the design on the back of the template. This will give you the mirrored design. If you have Customizing in your computer, just mirror it there, and
print the mirrored template.
9. Re-select the design. Mirror image the design. Stitch, hooping and marking as before.
Your sweater is done, and beautiful! Enjoy wearing it!

Personalized Cards
Because of the delicate nature of these designs, they are ideal for embroidering on card stock! Just hoop Cut-A-Way stabilizer. Place a blank card on the stabilizer. Embroider! Thats all there is to it! To cover the inside, if desired, cut a piece
of decorative paper and glue over the back of the embroidery.

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