Word Vietnam June 2016

The
Five
Stages
of
Expat
TH GII PUBLISHERS
W
OR
DV
IE
TN
AM
.C
OM
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 6
TC GI: BAO ROSS
Contents
Jun. 2016
60
24
96
THE TALK
010 / The Future of Expat
A word of warning
011 / The Big Five

June in Vietnam
BRIEFINGS
12 / Ratatat
They came, they saw, and damn did

they conquer!
28 / Stick Up
Vietnam learns a new sport:

hockey
EAT & DRINK

104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
INSIDER
This months review: Minh Thuys

Family Restaurant
54 / Running the Hash
106 / Fowl Play
Silly names and a drinking problem.

Meet the Hash House Harriers
60 / The Five Stages

of Expat
A night out on Chicken Street
108/ Mystery Diner HCMC

My Banh Mi gets the onceover
14 / Digital Love
If you live here long enough, Vietnam 110 / Banh Trang Trang Bang
changes you
When it comes to roll-it-yourself, this
dish is a winner
18 / Zo Project
Making Phong Nha into a

destination
Giving youth a chance through IT

training
Traditional papermaking gets a
commercial boost
24 / The Hospital
FV Hospital ups its game
2 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com
86 / How to Build a Tourist

Town
96 / Not Only Cheap,

Its Flea
Everyone loves a flea market, even

Vietnam
106
Contents
Jun. 2016
118
126
130
TRAVEL
136 / Day Tripper
COLUMNS
112 / The Tourification of

Tonsai
142 / Bar Stool
138 / The Alchemist
Another pristine beach in Southeast

Asia is going under the hammer. Or
is it?
144 / Coffee Cup
140 / The Therapist
148 / Top Eats 1
152 / Medical Buff
118 / The Other Side of

Maldives
150 / Top Eats 2
162 / Body and Temple
154 / City Map
174 / Know Your City
HCMC
30 / To-Do List
178 / Amazing Grapes
A journey to paradise. Well, almost

paradise
126 / Notes from Another City

Entry 5: The Hoi An Tourist Trap
130 / The Motorbike Diaries
40 / Just In
182 / A World of Good

FINAL SAY
Connecting the dots
156/ HCMC City Guide
HANOI
160 / Day Tripper
44 / To-Do List
170 / Bar Stool
Why Vietnamese treat foreigners as

they do
50 / Just In
176 / Top Eats
188/ Ten 10
132 / Hanoi City Guide
184 / City Map
186 / 10 Steps to Knowing

Foreigners
The woman behind Art Vietnam

Gallery: Suzanne Lecht
CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked our team to tell us about the
moment has defined their time living in Vietnam
HARRY HODGE
Contributor
Marriage was a defining moment.
Drinking rice wine in an ao dai
at 7am with my wifes uncles in a
village in Bac Ninh made me feel truly
immersed in the culture, no matter how bad my
hangover was the next day.
SIN KAVANAGH
Staff Writer
First time driving myself through
downtown Saigon on my moto; I
was petrified but all of a sudden it
gave me a much better insight into
how Vietnamese traffic actually works,
and on a more interesting level, how Vietnamese
society functions. You just have to get with the
flow, keep your eyes ahead, and stay focused.
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
For me it was the realisation of
having kids and having to pay
school fees. No way was I going to
be able to afford that on a teachers
salary. That was how the magazine
started: I needed to go into business.
JULIE VOLA
Photo Editor
I know it sounds cheesy, but for me
its getting this job as a photographer
and photo editor for the magazine. I
am finally following my dream.
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
There are many moments and
they keep on coming the longer I
stay. Professionally, the first time
walking down Le Loi in Saigon and
seeing my image on a billboard outside the
Saigon Centre. Personally, being addressed to
as con by my parents-in-law and being fully
accepted as a family member.
RODNEY HUGHES
Staff Photographer
For me it was eight months into
living in Vietnam when I realized
how much opportunity is available
here. The sense of freedom with the
knowledge you can make a living doing whatever
it is you love was overwhelming. It really showed
me how much I love living in this country.
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
nick@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY
Editorial Manager
vy@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com
OWEN SALISBURY
Staff Writer
owen@wordvietnam.com
BAO ZOAN
Staff Photographer
baozoan@wordvietnam.com
SIN KAVANAGH
Staff Writer
sian@wordvietnam.com
RODNEY HUGHES
Staff Photographer
rodney@wordvietnam.com
JULIE VOLA
Photo Editor
julie@wordvietnam.com
JESSE MEADOWS
Staff Writer (Hanoi)
jesse@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com
ADMINISTRATION
BAO ROSS
General Director
bao@wordvietnam.com
TRANG LE
Chief Accountant
trang@wordvietnam.com
ADVERTISING
TRINH BUI
Sales Manager
trinh@wordvietnam.com
CHAU GIANG
Office Assistant
giang@wordvietnam.com
DISTRIBUTION
trinh@wordvietnam.com
hai@wordvietnam.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
trang@wordvietnam.com
hai@wordvietnam.com
For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244
Special thanks to CAMA ATK, Sporting Republic, PNV, Zo Project, Billy Gray, Hanoi Horse
Club, AsiaMotions, FV, Harry Hodge, James Chew, Emily Petsko, Hanoi & Saigon Hash
House Harriers, Oliver de Paolis, Benjamin Evans & Emma McGowan, Lelio Adriano, Eduardo
Culbeaux, Mon Ovathasarn, Sara Melje-Besset, Paul Massad, Ali Waugh, Kylie Michelle, Natalia
Kraevskaia, Thanh Charles, Nguyen Thanh Hai, Howard & Deb Limbert, Ben Mitchell, Ngoc,
Dzung, Doan Thu Hang from Saigon Flea Market, Bong Hai Anh from Hanoi Uppik, Minh Thuys
Family Restaurant, Ted Dalton, My Banh Mi, Vi Pham, Tran Cam Thu, Hang Le, Don Wills, Matt
Dworzanczyk, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, La Plume, Lissom Parlour, Cutisun, La Table du
Chef, Laurel Winter, Phil Kelly, QUI Dining Lounge, Ed Haysom, My Chicken Run, Jim Cawood,
Dana McNairn, Suzanne Lecht and David Legard
Word is a registered
trademark. No content
may be reproduced in
any form without prior
authorisation of the
owners.
Word - Duong Huynh
Advertising JSC
Tt c hnh nh v ni dung
trong n phm ny thuc bn
quyn ca n phm Word ca
C.Ty CP TMDVQCTruyn Thng
Dng Hunh. Mi s sao chp
khng c php s b xem l
vi phm lut S Hu Tr Tu hin
hnh ca nh nc Cng Ha X
Hi Ch Ngha Vit Nam.
CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

ISBN: 978-604-77-2125-2
CNG TY TNHH MTV

NH XUT BN TH GII
Tr s chnh:
46 Trn Hng o, Hon Kim,
H Ni
Tel: 04.3825.3841
Fax: 04.3826.9578
Email: thegioi@
thegioipublishers.vn
Website: www.
thegioipublishers.vn
CHU TRCH NHIM XUT BN:

TS. Trn on Lm
Bin tp: Phm Trn Long
Thit k m thut: Bao Ross
Sa bn in: Nick Ross
Ba: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
LIN KT XUT BN V PHT HNH

CNG TY CP TMDVQCTRUYN
THNG DNG HUNH
87/21/6 ng S 4 C X Thnh,
Phng 4, Q. 3, TP. HCM. T: + 84 8
3838 6908
Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971
Email: info@wordvietnam.com
Website: www.wordvietnam.com
In 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

In ti Cng ty C phn In Trn Ph
71 73 75 Hai B Trng, Q. 1, TP. HCM.
www.tranphuprint.com
Giy xc nhn KXB s: 61-2016/
CXBIPH/34-01/ThG.
Quyt nh xut bn s: 391/Q-ThG cp
ngy 25 thng 05 nm 2016.
In xong v np lu chiu thng 06 nm 2016.
M ISBN: 978-604-77-2125-2
SCH CHUYN QUNG CO
Prelude
ne night in
Hanoi about
five or six
years ago I
found myself telling
my expat story to two
20-something women
from England. It was
one of those crazy
evenings that lingered
on until sunrise. I know
I have a tendency
to talk a lot, but the
women were riveted.
At the time I was

amazed that they
were so interested.
There were no war
zones in there, no
death-defying feats, no
Hollywood shoot-outs
and not a dead body
in sight. In retrospect
I understood. Living
back home means
acquiescing to the
mundane. It means
living a life with
few moments of
excitement. It means,
most importantly,
being normal. If you
are an expat living in
Vietnam, then you are
far from anything that

can be called normal.
There are thousand
of stories like mine, of
foreigners who came to
Vietnam and ended up
living here. Ive heard
many of them, and
despite my 17 years in
this country, I still find
them fascinating. The
truth of the matter?
They are.
For me, living
in Vietnam was all
to do with craving
experience. When I
was younger I was
greedy for it. Other
people have come for
different reasons for

the freedom, for the
opportunities, for the
camouflage, or just to
try something new.
In our cover story we
have tried to capture
this, these unique
stories. Weve tried
to capture something
else as well the
feeling, the sense, the
idea, the experience
of what its like to live
somewhere as far-flung
and beautifully crazy
as Vietnam. I hope
you like the stories as
much as we do. Nick
Ross
CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 6
TC GI: BAO ROSS
The
Five
Stages
of
Expat
TH GII PUBLISHERS
W
OR
DV
IE
TN
AM
.C
OM
The
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Design by DH Advertising
Have Your Say

Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook facebook.com/word.vietnam or
via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to
hearing from you.
Inbox
Do you have
any comments
that you would
like to air? If
so, reach out
and touch
us at nick@
wordvietnam.
com were at
your fingertips.
The Organic Farm
Food Stories
Page 54, May 2016

From a discussion on Facebook
Organik also does distribution,
so some other shops carry their
products. An Nam sells organic
products as well. HPL
You should speak to Bob
Allen from Veggies. He owns
farms in Dalat and will tell you.
Youre correct, contaminants
disappear over time, but only
if the chemicals used by other
farmers / factories / the water
companies are no longer used
either. One of the biggest issues,
as an example, is the amount
of chlorine in Vietnams water
system. Chlorine is used to
treat all sewerage and naturally,
this gets back into the ground
water... Word Vietnam
So what is the HAACP
organic certification for
Organik? Can you get one
when it isnt 100% organic?
HPL
Yes, of course you can.
HAACP means the food is safe.
Different. Word Vietnam
May 2016
Great Mag for May. Loved the food thing terrific and what a different
approach. The Uncle Bills story was fascinating, enjoyed your graffiti story.
A pity those guys are not in Saigon. Phu Yen looks fascinating. Even the
cover was good. RR
Vegetarian Hanoi
Page 190, May 2016
Ive tried probably most if not all possible vegetarian restaurants in Hanoi,
but prefer to cook my own veggie meals. Cant handle all the gluten fake
meat stuff, not a big fan of everyday rau muong either. Plus vegetarianism
is definitely not led by Westerners. LA
Pho The People

Page 62, May 2016
You should visit this place next time youre in Saigon. Great pho and youll
love the history and the room upstairs. Great place to visit! AF
Al Frescos: An Unlikely Success Story

Page 68, May 2016
Id just say this:
1) Serve good food
2) Give good service
3) Give fair price
4) Be consistent
And everyone loves them. TM
Talk
Lead
THE TALK
LEAD ARTICLE
The Future of Expat

It could be bright. But play it the wrong way and it could be terrible
n early 2011, our managing editor of

Word Ha Noi Julia Plevin wrote the
following comment: The truth holds
that a lot of expats are somewhat
damaged goods.
One reader was enraged:
Damaged goods. What a charming turn
of phrase you Americans have. Only someone
who grew up in a cut-throat society that
quickly divides its entire population into a
few winners and a vast underclass of losers
would have the nerve to use such a vile and
hateful descriptive of the very people your
publication claims to cater to.
Yet, Julia was correct. A small number
of expats (please note: not all) do end
up in Vietnam because they have been
unsuccessful elsewhere. Many others
get moved on or rotated by HQ, while
a minority marry, decide to become
entrepreneurs and stay.
Whatever the reason you are here, if
you are an expat, you are a guest in this
country. Everyone has difficult moments
its inevitable. But if you consistently
behave badly, then it will make your hosts
treat you with contempt. They will look
down not just on you, but on nguoi nuoc
ngoai or foreigners in general. Overdo it,
then calls to halt immigration will start to
come, like they have in the West.
Not for Sore Eyes

The recent explosion of a private expat
Facebook group that shall remain nameless
is an example of expats creating their
own reasons to be thrown out of Vietnam.
[Full disclosure: Ive been blocked from
the group, even though Ive never tried
to join it!] On the one hand, the group
is there to allow people to vent their
frustrations at life in this country. There
are many, as there are many no matter
where you live; letting off steam is both
normal and natural. But when people start
complaining about this country and its
people, and worse, get racist, you wonder
why they are here at all.
Take the term zuzu, one that is
increasingly used in this group (it
originally comes from the name of
someones pet monkey). Meant to refer to
Vietnamese people in the same way that
gook once referred to Koreans, and you
start to wonder; what are the people using
these terms doing here in the first place?
If you want damaged goods, then surely
this is it?
Worse, imagine how Vietnamese
people would feel if they knew that those
very people they allow to live in their

country were referring to them by such a
derogatory term? Back home you would
be up in arms if immigrants or refugees
treated your country or your people with
disdain. Its no different in Vietnam.
Attitude
When I first arrived here, there were all
sorts of oddballs hanging about. The
Gary Glitter episode got rid of most of the
paedophiles most while increasingly
strict rules on hiring teachers has
professionalised the industry. One of the
key changes was the enforcement of work
permit rules and the tightening up of visa
regulations. People may rightly complain
about the lack of clear information on how
to get that-all important work permit or
visa. Yet this has helped to ensure that the

majority of people who shouldnt be in
Vietnam, are no longer here.
Yet every time an expat is involved in
an incident of road rage; treats a waitress
badly in a restaurant; writes a needless,
nasty comment on Facebook; or acts
towards a Vietnamese person like they
are stupid, they are adding to a growing
dislike of foreigners among locals. And so
this prejudice against foreigners is growing.
Expats are guests, and when they live
in Vietnam, many live a charmed life.
So enjoy it while you can. Respect what
youve got and the people who have let
you live here, because if you dont, visa
and work permit regulations may get even
tighter. Then, the only goods that will be
damaged will be expats. Nick Ross
Big5
The
A music
festival,
Geva Alon,
exhibitions,
a Dutch DJ
and some
side-splitting
comedy
Saigonella Art and

Music Festival
Israeli singer songwriter, Geva Alon
Young Marco is making it big, so big hes playing at Observatory this month
a)
b)
Club House Tan Thuan, HCMC

Saturday, Jun. 4
Many a music festival has tried to set
up roots in Saigon, but after one or
two showings, theyve disappeared
off the radar.
The latest pretender is Saigonella.
With a venue close to the river in
District 7, theyre bringing DJs and
live music together with a range
of arty, environmentally friendly
activities.
Will it work? We hope so! With
tickets starting at VND250,000, its
certainly affordable.
For more info click on facebook.com/
saigonella or turn to page 32
Geva Alon
2
Saigon Ranger, HCMC

Jun. 9 and Jun. 10
This is an interesting one as in

his native Israel, Geva Alon is an
A-lister, a household name. Yet here
hes an unknown.
Gevas also got some international
street cred, having worked with
some pretty well-known names
in the music industry including
Macy Gray, Paul Weller and famed
producer Thom Monaghan.
So, what can we expect? Well,
hes here with his new band, Vegan
Friendly, and hes often compared to
Neil Young. So our suggestion? Go

along and find out. Could be a gem
of a show.
For more info on ticketing and the
show itself, turn to page 32
Affordable Art for You

Exhibition Centre for Fine Art
and Photography, Hanoi
Jun. 5 to Jun. 12
The format is simple. Locally

produced art by recognised artists at
prices that arent going to break the
bank balance. And not surprisingly,
so far Art For You has been a great
success.
Now, however, its moving to a
new, larger venue. And with over
300 works on sale, theres a lot to
choose from. Just imagine what it
would be like to curate!
The Exhibition Centre for Fine Art
and Photography is at 29 Hang Bai,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For more info turn
to page 46
Young Marco
Observatory, HCMC
Saturday, Jun. 11
You may well have heard of the DJ,

Young Marco, and if you have theres
a good reason for it. This Dutchman,
a formidable DJ and producer, is
starting to gain global kudos thanks
to his work both on and off the DJ
booth. The Observatory reckons this
is gonna be a big gig. So, best get

down and find out.
Doors are at 9pm and entrance is
free before 10pm and VND150,000
thereafter. The Observatory is at 5,
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
A Night with Will Mars

5
Game On Saigon, HCMC

and CAMA ATK, Hanoi
Jun. 29 and Jun. 30
Full disclosure. Word has a vested

interest in professional stand-up
comedy as two of the organisers of
Saigon International Comedy work
for this fine publication.
More disclosure. These two fine
people wouldnt be spending so
much time and energy in bringing
international stand-up comedians to
this country if they didnt believe in
the power of comedy. Indeed, what
is life without laughter?
The latest offering should be a
good un (although last months gig
with Turner Sparks will be pretty
difficult to beat). Headlined by the
irrepressible Will Mars, a UK-born
comic with accolades coming out
of his armpits, once again both
shows will bring you the best of
the amateur scene, a scene that
thanks to the work of a dedicated
few is starting to produce some
accomplished comics.
Wanna get all the juice? Turn to
pages 38 and 48 and read on.
wordvietnam.com | June 2016 Word | 11
Briefings
Hanoi
12 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com
Ratatat
An intimate gig with an international act
anois music scene is

starved for international
acts, so months ago, when
CAMA ATK posted an
event on Facebook featuring
New York-based instrumentalists
Ratatat, music nerds across the city
collectively freaked out.
Ive been a fan for 10 years, so I
wont pretend that I kept my cool.
I turned up at the venue two hours
early. As people began to filter in,
my friends and I claimed a spot at
the front of the stage, waiting like
a bunch of giddy teenagers about
to see our favourite local band play
a house party. Except this was a
band thats toured with the likes
of Interpol and Daft Punk, played
massive festivals like Coachella,
and released five studio albums.
Ratatat wanted to do a small
gig in an intimate venue, says
Dan Dockery from CAMA. We
could have sold the tickets at
VND500,000 apiece and sold out,
to be honest, but thats not what
its about. Its about music, and
making it accessible to everybody.
Theres something about a small
venue with good music that makes
for wild parties. Everyone in that
tiny, hot room was soaking wet and
vibrating with joy. The band gave
us nostalgic smiles with familiar
riffs from their first album, Classics,
and treated us to new tunes off
their latest release, Magnifique.
We Love Vietnam
If youve never seen Ratatat live, let
me explain. The band is producer
Evan Mast, guitarist Mike Stroud,
and a whole bunch of knobs and
pedals. Projections of fireworks and
lions spill across the stage, while

Evan pounds a giant drum with a
bass guitar around his neck, and
Mike leaps and thrashes and does
guitar solo backbends, occasionally
throwing water all over his sweaty
crowd.
Youd never guess from the
energy they gave us, but Evan
confessed to a fan after the show
that they hadnt slept in a week, on
the tail end of their first world tour
in four years. This was their last
stop before heading home, but it
wasnt their first visit to Vietnam.
In 2009, the band played a stilt
house in Long Bien to a crowd
of 300, and made an appearance
at Saigons Loretofest that same
year. When I asked Evan why they
keep coming back, his answer was
simple: We love Vietnam.
Outside CAMA after the
show, the guys were inundated
with thank-yous and autograph
requests. Fame hasnt gone to their
heads, they graciously posed for
selfies, and shared cigarettes and
small talk with the crowd.
Its this breakdown of the barrier
between audience and performer
that was so special. The bigger a
show is, the more you feel like just
a ticket stub, and the less youre
able to connect to the experience.
But when 100 people get to huddle
around a band they love, some
kind of magic happens.
As my eyes strayed around the
room during the show, I caught
the gaze of dancing strangers who
smiled back at me knowingly. We
didnt have to say anything. The
music between us was enough.
Jesse Meadows
Charity
of
the Month
Digital Love
How do you create sustainable development? Passerelles Numriques
Vietnams answer is to train underprivileged students to work in IT
e believe in them, says

Julie Tardieu of the
students taught in the
IT programmes run by
Passerelles Numriques Vietnam (PNV).
The big challenge is to help them believe
in themselves.
Julie is the general manager of PNV, a
French charity based in Danang, and has
been running operations in Vietnam since
September, 2015. As she tells me about one
of the programmes recent graduates, its
clear that shes passionate about the project
she oversees. And its clear that the former
student now believes in herself.
Last week I was with Luyen, she says.
Shes from the countryside and was living
with her aunt, sister and mother there
was no father in the picture. They were
striving in the rice fields.
She studied for two years and graduated
in 2014. Now shes a software developer
and shes giving money back to her mother.

Shes living here in Danang and is quite
independent now. Shes just taken a plane for
the first time with her company and shes very
proud shes got a professional life its very
touching for me. These are her words: When
all the doors of hope were closed, PNV
arrived in her school and she was accepted.
California Dreaming
Set up in France, Passerelles Numriques
opened their first training centre, in
Cambodia, in 2006. In 2009 they launched
in The Philippines and in 2010, Vietnam.
During this period they have trained more
than 1,000 underprivileged youths to build
their employability through education in the
digital industry, helping both themselves and
their families escape poverty.
So successful has the project been that
80 percent of the students in last years
class, who graduated with an IT Diploma
from the University of Danang, already had

jobs to go to when they left PNV. The rest
found work within two to three months of
finishing their course.
The key is that PNV doesnt just teach
technical and vocational skills, but life skills.
For me this is what really makes the
difference, explains Julie. We provide
soft skills training. We teach our students
how to behave in a company and how to
communicate with others. We also try to
train them in how to manage a project. This
is very important because besides technical
skills, companies are looking for people who
are proactive, can take initiative and know
how to learn by themselves.
The other key aspect of the course
is the internship programme PNV
students spend three months working with
companies in Danang and Ho Chi Minh
City. According to Julie its a win-win
situation: We work with companies to
ensure that our students fit their needs and

that the training provided by the companies
will fit our needs as well.
The formula works PNVs students are
in high demand.
Ok Computer
Only taking on students living in Central
Vietnam Quang Binh, Quang Tri,
Danang, Quang Nam, Kontum, Quang Ngai
and Binh Dinh which is also one of the
poorest parts of the country, the selection
process starts with local government
identifying high schools in poor areas, and
PNV visiting these schools.
We inform students about the
programme, says Julie, and tell them
about what kind of opportunities they can
find in IT. The ones who are interested take
tests in maths and logic. If they pass the test,
then we interview them individually.
In the interviews, PNV checks the potential
and motivation of the applicants and assess

whether they will be successful on the training
programme, and after that good employees
or entrepreneurs. This is followed by a visit to
the families and a further assessment based on
social criteria to determine whether they can
study without PNV or not. The goal is to help
students who cant study without us.
Students who are successfully accepted
onto the programme will have all their
financial needs paid for by PNV food,
accommodation, transportation, health
insurance, medical care, university tuition
fees and technical equipment. For two years
the students dont have any expenses. Says
Julie: Actually, during the selection process
its a big challenge to convince the families
to trust us. Sometimes they dont believe that
everything is for free.
The reward, though, is immense. So far,
163 students have graduated from PNV, and
at present there are two classes with a total
of 100 students; 48 are studying software

development and the rest are learning
testing and web development.
In Vietnam, so many companies are
building up, says Julie. There are so many
start-ups and so many foreigners building
companies here. They all have expectations
and you feel that its very dynamic. You
can really sense that in Ho Chi Minh City
and in Danang, that everyone is really
into it, creating new projects, creating new
applications, creating new video games. I
believe PNV can really be part of this new
development and create new jobs which will
help new companies.
For more information on PNV, click on
passerellesnumeriques.org. The next class that
starts at PNV will study for three years and
students will finish with a college degree from the
University of Danang. PNV is also in the process
of expanding its partnerships to Ho Chi Minh
City
Briefings
Marcel Lennartz
National
To the Limits
On Jun. 11, the Phu Quoc Marathon gets its first outing
arlier this year the comedian Eddie

Izzard ran a marathon a day for 27 days
in South Africa. Testing his 54-year-old
body to its limits, at the end of the final
day he gasped, Its the hardest thing Ive
ever done, and Im very tired.
The feat raised US$1 million for Sports
Relief.
Such inhuman levels of endurance and
pain wont be on show at the inaugural Phu
Quoc Marathon on Jun. 11, but completing
the 26 miles and 385 yards, or 42.195km, in
tropical heat will still be a big ask for even
the most experienced of runners.
One such person who has tested his
willpower and endurance to the limit is race
director, Marcel Lennartz. Having lived in
Vietnam for 21 years, the Dutchman went
down the path of so many expats in this
country he stopped doing exercise and
put on weight. That all changed seven years
ago when a friend challenged him to run
20km on a treadmill. He managed it and
from there went on to run triathlons.
Id never done a triathlon before, he
says. In Mui Ne, seven or eight years ago
I was last to finish. I didnt care. Then I did
the triathlon in Hoi An two or three times,
I finished almost last. After that I started to
improve my swimming and my cycling.
Three years ago, around the time of the
first Ho Chi Minh City Run, he joined a local
running club. Now at its helm, he has seen
the group grow in size they run three
to four times a week. However, his own
personal Eddie Izzard moment, his moment of
calculated madness, came in early 2015 when
he decided to run from Saigon to Vung Tau.
Although 20 people signed up for the run,

when the group finally undertook the 100km
or so from Saigon to Vung Tau, only three
people took part. One of them was Marcel.
People always said, You can never do
this run to Vung Tau, he says, but I ended
up showing them the middle finger.
No Half Measures
At one of the triathlons in Hoi An, Marcel
met David Shin from Sporting Republic
he was the first person Marcel had
encountered who had completed a full
Ironman. Marcel was impressed.
Then in 2012 Marcel ran the Phu Quoc
Half Marathon organised by Sporting
Republic. After the race, he spoke to David
a few times, but it was through a friend in
Hoi An that Marcel was asked if he would
like to work with the sport management
and marketing company to put together a
second half-marathon in Phu Quoc. Marcel
and David started to chat, and from there
decided to stage a full marathon, with
Marcel as the race director.
The inaugural race on Saturday, Jun. 11
should see around 200 participants taking
part in four different events the 42km,
the 21km, the 10km and the 5km. Marcel
believes about 30 people will be running the
full marathon.
The majority of people will be doing the
half-marathon, he says, while very few will
be taking part in the 5km race, as most people
wont fly to Phu Quoc just to run 5km.
They've been working with the Phu Quoc
authorities who will be providing volunteers
and helping with logistics. Theyve been
absolutely fantastic to work with, says

Marcel. And for anyone who ran the halfmarathon in 2012, the route will be different.
[When I was scouting the route] I ran
the 2012 course again and there were some
problems. A lot of the GPS on Google Maps
is out of date. Also there is too much sun
on the old route and too much dust. And
because were organising the run in early
June, in the worst case scenario youll get
rain and it can get really muddy.
The result is that more of the race will
be on-road than in the past, not that it
diminishes the experience of running
a marathon in Phu Quoc. According to
Marcel, there are some stunning views
along the course.
The key, though, is the finish line,
everyones ultimate goal. Located at
Long Beach Resort, a property with two
swimming pools, Marcel has something
special prepared.
One thing about running is that when
you finish, you really want an ice-cold bath,
he says. So we are going to fill one of the
pools with ice and make a huge ice bath.
Indeed, even Eddie Izzard got into bath
mode, spending an hour a night submerged
in ice-cold water. A common practice among
elite athletes, it helps muscles recover faster.
And after 42km of running in the tropical
heat of Phu Quoc, recuperating will be as
important as the race itself.
For more info on the Phu Quoc Marathon,
click on sportingrepublic.com/phuquocmarathon.
Marcel organises most of the runs for runclub.vn.
Their facebook group can be found at facebook.
com/groups/runclub.vn
Briefings
Hanoi
Zo Project
Traditional Vietnamese paper made fashionable
PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
o often we delight in the

intricately designed crafts and
artwork of different cultures,
wondering what it reflects about
the society that nourished its creation.
Yet often we forget to ask ourselves what
these things really mean even the
people making them have forgotten why
those particular symbols and materials
were used.
Zo Project is an award-winning social
enterprise established in 2013 by Tran Hong
Nhung. The project works in collaboration
with a village in Bac Ninh Province that
produces traditional Vietnamese do paper.
The Zo team then uses the paper to create
notebooks, postcards, lamps and other niche
crafts that they sell from their workshop in
Hoan Kiem.
A large number of traditions in Vietnam
have been in steady decline for years now;
as the country develops, elements of its past
naturally get left in the shade, out of sight
and out of memory. The decline of traditions
like calligraphy and painting has opened
a void in the creative conscience of many
Vietnamese; many artists go unappreciated,
while the art market itself is largely
non-existent.
Recognising that do paper was a dying
craft, Nhung set about a plan to preserve this
beautiful tradition in an environmentally
sustainable way.
There is only one village left in Vietnam

that hand-produces do paper. But the team
has plans to run educational workshops on
how to craft it and have set up their own
workshop specifically for producing the
paper in the event that the current papermasters stop pursuing their craft.
I met founder Nhung in their old office
in Tay Ho, while they were in the process of
relocating to their current base in Hoan Kiem.
We make a lot of mess, she says, rummaging
through stacks of paper and notebooks.
Alongside a dedicated team of volunteers
and international collaborators, Nhung has
crafted a space where crafts come alive, and
the intrigue of creativity is ever-present. The
location of the Zo workshop itself inspires
creativity nestled along the train tracks
running through Hoan Kiem, the closeknit community surrounding them is one
of Hanois most famous destinations for
curious travellers and photographers.
Some of these people have been living
here by the train tracks for generations, and
I ask myself why? I look out of the window
and its like Im watching a movie go by, its
so interesting, says Nhung.
Working with Paper

Since establishing themselves, Zo Project
has won the Social Enterprise of the Year
2015 award from the Centre for Social
Initiatives Promotion (CSIP) and has
gained a loyal following of artists and

volunteers who share their vision for
a passion for the real story behind the
crafts of culture namely, the people
themselves.
For me, its about saving cultural and
traditional values as well, not just the paper,
Nhung says. We work with artists and hold
exhibitions of their work we try to bring
more artists into working with the paper.
People see the patterns on the crafts,
they know how to sew it, but so often they
dont know why its there or what it means,
says Nhung. The project is passionate about
teaching people the culture behind crafts and
patterns that we see often in Vietnam, but
also why people chose to design something
in a particular way and what it might say
about those people.
The Zo Project workshop is more than
a place to buy hand-made crafts, its a
reflection of an emerging youth scene in
Hanoi that is passionate about creation
with preservation, that longs for an artistic
explosion in their capital, but can be part of
its creation as well.
Officially reopened on the Jun. 2, Zo
Project warmly awaits anyone who strays
on the right side of the tracks near the Hoan
Kiem area. Billy Gray
Zo Project is based at 8 Dien Bien Phu, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi. You can check them out online at
zoproject.com
Briefings
PHOTOS BY JESSE MEADOWS
Hanoi
A Kingdom for
a Horse
Riding high in the centre of Hanoi
ot far beyond the metro rail line

and monolithic real estate projects
under construction in Cau Giay
District, theres a narrow street
that leads to a gravel path that leads to a
dirt road and finally to a field.
And inside the field? Horses. Roaming
free, in the middle of Hanoi.
I was just as surprised as anyone when
I learned that Hanoi has a horse farm and
foreign instructors that offer lessons in
grooming, riding, trotting and jumping.
It had been over a decade since my days
of chasing blue ribbons at Southwest
Pennsylvania horse shows on a chocolatecoloured steed named Merlin, but I was
eager to give it another shot in the saddle.
In the Family
Nguyen Thi Hoa Hop, founder of the Hanoi
Horse Club in the Van Canh-Di Trach
Commune of Hoai Duc District, inherited the
hobby from her husband. His grandfather
was among the first people to bring the
circus to Vietnam, and it has become a family
tradition to train dogs, horses and monkeys.
The couple opened their farm eight years
ago after buying 10 horses, and it has since
grown into a larger operation with nearly 30
horses and ponies, including thoroughbreds
and a variety of breeds.
They recently relocated their stables after
the government turned the land they were
previously using into a park, and are now in
the process of building an indoor arena.
To get to the farm, you must drive
through a nearly deserted residential
community, past corroded gates, overgrown
weeds and unpainted, unlived in houses.
The area is eerily quiet, and Im suddenly
aware that I can hear birds chirping. It feels

both refreshing and post-apocalyptic, and
Im grateful to be on a motorbike in case I
spot a family of zombies bumbling down
the sidewalk.
The Horses
The facilities here arent great right now,
says Katie Taylor, an English film producer
and the clubs newest riding instructor, while
explaining that the farm is a work in progress.
But whats most important, she said, is the
quality and care of the horses.
As an instructor and as a horse person,
Ive ridden crazy horses, timid horses,
unbroken horses, and if youre a beginner
and you come to a stable for the first time,
especially in Asia, you want to know that
youre going to sit on a horse that isnt
crackers, and these horses arent.
She said the only other place to ride
horses in Hanoi that shes aware of is by the
Red River, but the horses are untrained and
mostly used as props for wedding pictures.
At Hanoi Horse Club, the animals have
the freedom to roam about in the open fields
in a calm, low-stress environment. A rare
luxury in Hanoi.
These are good horses, she says.
Theyve got great coats, theyre well
looked after and its a sort of organic
environment that they live in. Theyre not
tied up all the time.
Black Beauty
Hop said their students are mostly
Vietnamese, but they also teach foreigners,
especially Koreans and Japanese. The
youngest student is three, and the oldest is 60.
Antoine Vander Elst, a Belgian who works
for the European Union, brought his 11-yearold daughter, Maude, to class one early
Sunday morning.
Shes very passionate about horses so
it was like a dream for her, he says about
discovering Hanoi Horse Club.
She loves taking care of the horses, but
also she likes the location and shes very
happy with the instructor.
Maude can groom the horse, prepare the
saddle and mount by herself, requiring only
a bit of guidance from a helper who leads
the horse around the outdoor arena.
As for me, I also needed some assistance
to keep the horse on the path. But it felt
natural to be back on a horse, riding
uninhibited with the chaotic city a world
away in the distance.
One helper, Tuyet Dao, 28, said horseback
riding is still fairly new in Vietnam, which
makes it more appealing as a hobby.
I was very surprised that there was a
horse farm with a lot of horses in the centre
of Hanoi, she says. We never had real
classes riding horses like this.
In addition to regular lessons, the Horse
Club also hosts a charitable programme
called Horse for Healing, which provides
free lessons to autistic children. Hop said
the lessons help children connect with the
animals and improve their balance.
After three to five lessons, they feel
relaxed and they like it very much, Hop
says. They always ask their parents to bring
them to Hanoi Horse Club to ride the horses
now. Emily Petsko
Full classes cost VND5 million for 12
lessons, or VND450,000 per lesson. For more
information, visit nguahanoi.vn/en, and for
directions, contact hanoihorse@gmail.com
Briefings
HCMC
In the Summer Time

Time for your kids to go off on summer camp
ve already registered painting

and karate courses for you this
summer, my neighbour told her
son.
That took me back to my childhood and
reminded me of summer trips I had been
on. They were not girl scout excursions, they
were just simply going to visit someones
home town. On those journeys, I learnt a lot
of new things that the city hadnt been able
to teach me.
That is the reason why summer camps
organised by the likes of AsiaMotions are so
important to children. It not only gives them
a chance to get out of the city with their
peers, but it also provides an experience
they would never normally have in their
daily lives and, if they are expat kids, an
experience they would never get back home.
Baptiste du Chaffaut, the operations
director of AsiaMotions, says: Going on
a summer camp is a great experience for a
child as it is the opportunity to experience
new activities and make new friends in a
safe and awesome outdoor environment.
Learn and Play
Come Home New
Thanks to those simple trips, I know how to

harvest peanuts, use fish traps, catch snails,
distinguish between a cow and a buffalo,
start a fire with wood and much more. And
with organised and planned summer camps,
the benefits will be even greater.
According to Baptiste, children will learn
how to tie knots, read maps and the stars,
learn basic Morse code along with other
skills including team building, making
decisions, taking responsibilities, being
independent and creative.
There will be other outdoor fun activities
including kayaking, banana boating, rock
climbing, zip lining, paint balling, team
sports and games, such as kick the can and
man hunt. Kids craft and evening games
and songs are also prepared, Baptiste adds.
Moreover, different age ranges will
have different programmes to suit their
personalities and abilities. As there will be a
wide range of activities, the kids will be able
to decide which ones they want to engage in
and ones they dislike.
One certain thing is that our kids will look

healthier when they get home from summer
camps. However, its not only the look that
will change, but the attitude, as they will be
unplugged from technologies like TVs, video
games, iPads and laptops, says Baptiste.
They will have more independence and
confidence, he continues. The camps will
provide an opportunity for harmonious
growth, and support children in acquiring
better social skills and interest in the great
outdoors.
For those who are still hesitant, consider
the words of The Search Intitutes Dr. Peter
Scales, a developmental psychologist and
researcher on the positive development of
children and youth.
The biggest plus is that camps help young
people discover and explore their talents,
interests, and values, he says. Most schools
dont satisfy all these needs. Kids who have
had these kinds of experiences end up being
healthier and have less of the problems
which concern us all. Vu Ha Kim Vy
Information
AsiaMotions has an experienced,
multicultural team and has organised
school trips each year for international
schools in Vietnam for over 2,000
students with ages from 7 to 17. The
team is trained on in safety measures
and first aid, and has all the necessary
certifications to run outdoor and camp
activities.
From Jun. 6 to Jul. 22, AsiaMotions is
hosting their five-day summer camps for
kids aged seven to 15 in Madagui, a town
on the edge of Nam Cat Tien National
Park, three hours north of Saigon.
Click on asia-motions.com/summercamps/ or email paul@asia-motions.
com for more info
Briefings
HCMC
The Hospital
FV have just been awarded the premier international
credential for healthcare facilities. So what exactly
does this mean?
he French-Vietnamese Hospital,
or FV as theyre now known, long
struggled with one inescapable
fact. They were for many years the
only international standard hospital in
Ho Chi Minh City. This meant that when
they got things right, which was the vast
majority of the time, not a word was said
it was expected. But at the hint of an
error, they met the apocalypse.
Fortunately for the District 7 institution,
there are now other hospitals heading
towards worldwide standards. Not only
is this good for FV competition means
they have to improve and are no longer
observed by the watching masses through
a microscope but it is also good for the
10 million-plus population of this city.
More hospital options means more choice
and most importantly, better-quality
healthcare.
FV have responded to increased
competition by raising the bar, and
after years of preparation have received
the Gold Seal of Approval from Joint

Commission International (JCI). An
organisation that works to improve
patient safety and quality of health care in
the international community, JCI not only
offers education, publications and advisory
services, but international accreditation
and certification.
This means, says FV director Dr. JeanMarcel Guillon, that the quality of doctors
and nurses will improve, or as he describes
it, being JCI-accredited attracts the best
professionals.
He adds: Our recruitment criteria
and the recruitment process have had to
become even more stringent than before,
because we have to ensure to our patients
that our doctors have the right credentials,
skills and experience.
Compliance
The process of getting accredited, as
it is in all industries, is long and often
complicated, because complying with a
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY FV
new set of standards requires making a

number of changes to daily practice and
procedures.
According to Dr. Guillon, it means
changing the culture of the staff and
doctors, putting patient safety first,
making sure that patient rights are
respected, using evidence-based medicine,
respecting medical and corporate ethics at
all times, making sure the facility is safe
and perfectly maintained and so much
more. Its not easy.
He adds: We had to raise our level
considerably to guarantee patient safety,
improve outcomes, and improve the way
we take care of and treat patients. There
are benefits everywhere it permeates the
entire hospital.
The accreditation process meant writing
programmes for the likes of infection and
and quality control, as well as hundreds
of policies and procedures. It also meant
training staff and ensuring that checks
and balances were put in place to monitor
compliance. For this FV put together a

task force of 65 people who acted like
surveyors. Together they did tracers
on patients following the patient from
the moment they entered A&E until the
moment they were discharged and
reviewed the knowledge and compliance
of all staff.
Quality
The result of being accredited goes beyond
just what FV can offer to patients. Its
also about the staff themselves, says Dr.
Guillon, as it gives a feeling of prestige,
reinforces team spirit, and acts as a
motivator.
He adds: The quality journey is a
real journey you dont stop because
youve got to a milestone. First you have
to maintain the same level to get reaccredited, but also JCI always comes up
with new standards so you always have
to get better. So in that journey there are
other milestones. For example we are
already working as being recognised by

the WHO as a Mother and Baby Friendly
Hospital, and we are working to become a
pain-free hospital.
So does this mean that FV is
unequivocally the best international
hospital in Vietnam? Dr. Guillon refuses to
be drawn on this question. All he says is,
Were definitely among the best, but Ill let
our patients decide that. Nick Ross
HANOI VERTICAL RUN

VIETNAM
012 Vertical
orld Circuit
1,91
350 m
etres
SATURDAY
JULY 9, 2016
eps
4 st
LANDMARK 72
E6, Pham Hung
Hanoi, Vietnam
REGISTER NOW!
sportingrepublic.com/HanoiVerticalRun
for enquiries contact:

hanoi@sportingrepublic.com
Produced by
Sporting Republic
Sports
Digest
Stick Up
While Vietnam is known for prowess in many sports, field hockey is not
one of them. But Malaysian expat James Chew aims to change all that.
Words by Harry Hodge
Images of a recent match between Vietnam and Malaysia
ietnam sent its first national

team to Singapores recent World
Hockey League tournament.
While the local players were
outclassed in their first major international
event, Chew believes it gave them
good experience as they look to more
competition abroad. As president of
Vietnam Hockey, Chew has more than
passing interest in the sports success.
We were there to gain experience to
prepare for next year's SEA Games in
Kuala Lumpur, he says. The hockey
world league is too tough for the fledgling
Vietnam hockey team, but we learnt a lot
from the tournament. All the teams there
have at least 30 years of hockey history,
whereas the national team of Vietnam only
started in 2013.
For context, China won the tournament,

but they are ranked No. 19 in the world,
with a team of full-time hockey players
based in their own sports academy.
For Vietnam there is no funding, (but)
that is only one of the reasons, Chew adds.
Field hockey is a team-based sport played
on artificial turf or grass, depending on the
competition level. The game is played with
two teams, each having 10 players on the
field and one goalkeeper. A game consists
of 35-minute halves with a five to 10-minute
break between the halves.
Chew is hoping that some steady local
competition will help grow the sport and
improve results for the national team, and
explains that Vietnam Hockey is starting
a hockey league in Saigon to give players
more training and experience. The new
league is currently seeking a sponsor, with

the opportunity to attach a brand to the
league for naming rights. At the moment,
national team members train at the Vietnam
Hockey Centre in Ben Luc, south of Ho Chi
Minh City.
The objective is to get more people in
Vietnam to play hockey, says Chew. Its
crucial [to growing the sport].
Later in the year, a Vietnam Hockey Festival
is being planned for early November as
another measure to provide more exposure.
Anyone interested in playing field hockey in
Saigon, or interested in opportunities with the
new league, can contact James Chew on 0938
889899 or via email at jameschewjockbeng@
gmail.com. For further info click on
vietnamhockey.com or go to Vietnam Hockey
on Facebook
California Prospect Camp

Scouts VBA Talent
With the fledgling Vietnam
Basketball Association (VBA)
set to launch in August, league
representatives recently staged
a tryout camp to fill out its
rosters with overseas Vietnamese
hoopsters.
Each VBA team will consist
of one world import player, two
Vietnamese heritage players, and
10 Vietnamese local players. In
preparation for VBA, Saigon Heat
CEO and VBA representative
Connor Nguyen went to Fullerton,
California, to host a tryout in late
May to find Vietnamese heritage
players, defined as players having
at least one parent or grandparent
that were Vietnamese or born in
Vietnam.
Also in attendance were
Vietnam national team and Saigon
Heat coach Anthony Garbelotto,
and assistant Coach Dave
Singleton. There is also a special
appearance by top Vietnamese
heritage player David Viet Arnold
who was on hand to give guidance
to new potential heritage players.
Tokyo FC Bounces
Becamex Binh Duong from
Champions League
Ryoichi Maedas double helped
FC Tokyo get through to the last
16 of the AFC Champions League
after a 2-1 victory over Vietnams
Becamex Binh Duong in Group E
earlier last month.
Desperate for a win to secure a
place in the knockout stage, Tokyo
took the lead in the 20th minute
at Go Dau Stadium. Maeda then
scored his second goal with a fine
strike 10 minutes into the second
half.
In the 68th minute, Le Cong
Vinhs penalty, after Yuichi
Maruyama brought down
Cameroonian striker Nsi
Amougou Christian, gave the
hosts some hope. He also struck
the bar and missed two later
chances.
Sailing Race Makes Phu

Quoc Debut
PHOTOS BY MANN RENZEF
A yacht race was held for the first

time last month on Phu Quoc
Island off Vietnams southern
province of Kien Giang.
The race kicked off at Dinh Cau
Beach in Duong Dong Town. It
was jointly organised by the Kien
Giang Department of Culture,
Sports and Tourism and Thien
Vu Advertisement Joint Stock
Company, as part of the activities
to celebrate the 2016 National
Tourism Year. The race attracted 27
teams with a total of 54 local and

foreign contestants.
Contestants sailed twin-hull
catamarans manufactured by
the Vietnam-Czech Joint Stock
Company.
According to the organisers, the
event was intended to promote
sailing not only in Kien Giang
but also other coastal cities
and provinces. It was also seen
as a chance for amateur and
professional athletes to meet and
share their personal experience in
practicing the sport. Nearly 1,000
people came to the kickoff event to
watch and cheer the contestants.
Europeans Top Podium in

Ironman
Frances Cyril Viennot and
Switzerlands Caroline Steffen
took the mens and womens titles,
respectively, of the VNG Ironman
70.3 Vietnam 2016 in Danang last
month.
Viennot, who finished fourth
last year, clocked a time of 3hr
54min 9sec to win the mens
title, with Tim Van Berkel, from
Australia, coming in second
and fellow countryman Luke
McKenzie arriving in third, just
five minutes of the pace.
Swiss athlete Caroline Steffen,
who won the VNG Ironman 70.3
Vietnam in 2015, defended her title
in this second edition of the race in
a time of 4hr 12min 18sec. Czech
Radka Vodickova finished second
while Liz Blatchford ranked third
after finishing in 4hr 19min 46sec.
Steffen said it was a tough race
for her this year as defending
champion.
Winning the title is hard, but
defending it is even harder, she
said. Im very happy to win again
in Vietnam. I had a good start with
swimming and a good run after a
bike race in very hot conditions.
Steffen said she would donate
to Newborn Vietnam a
programme to reduce deaths of
newborn babies in the country
from an auction of her souvenirs
this year.
VNG Ironman 70.3 Vietnam
2016 drew over 1,100 athletes
representing 60 countries,
including more than 25
professional triathletes and 50
relay teams. Athletes
completed a
1.9km ocean
swim, a
tes
upda ur
90km bike
d
n
e
o
S out y p or
race and a
ab g grou @
21km run
in
ry
o
sp rtnt to har .com
along the
m
e
ev vietna
coastline of
word
Danang.
ToDo
list HCMC
Dancing,
wine, music
festivals, wire
sculpting,
summer
camp and
of course,
comedy
Work by renowned Vietnam artist, Nguyen Thanh Binh. He will be exhibiting this month at Craig Thomas Gallery
DJ Fulbert will be playing at Observatory in early June
1.
2.
3.
Storytelling Saigon is bringing a new, on-stage performance format to Saigon
Hometown by Nguyen Tan Binh

Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1
Until Jun. 22
Saigon painter, Nguyen Thanh Binh is
exhibiting 15 new pieces of his work at
Craig Thomas Gallery. The renowned
artist, who is famous for his oil
paintings, will be displaying his solo
collection Hometown until Jun. 22.
Nguyen Thanh Binh has been
receiving international acclaim and
has exhibited his work across Asia,
Europe and the United States.
Im not trying to follow any
trends, he says. Im just searching
for beauty as I see it; a beauty for
everyone. The structure in my
paintings tells the viewer many things
beyond the surface. The aim in my
work is to condense the narrative.
Craig Thomas Gallery is located
at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC.
For more information, please visit

cthomasgallery.com
Fulbert
Observatory, Q4
Friday, Jun. 3
A rising force on the resurgent
European House scene, Fulbert
is returning to Observatory to lay
down some law, as well as his refined
approach to moving a dance floor.
Support comes from Nic Ford.
Doors are at 9pm and entrance is free
before 10pm and VND150,000 thereafter.
The Observatory is at 5, Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Storytelling Saigon
La Fenetre Soleil, Q1
Saturday, Jun. 4
Got a story to tell? Know someone
who has an amazing story? Say the

organisers of this new night, Let's
hear it!!!!
As humans, we love stories. They
have been shared in every culture as
a means of entertainment, education,
cultural preservation and instilling
moral values. Now is your chance
to hear and see peoples personal
tales in an on-stage format yet to
be tried out in Vietnam. Narrated
by a wide variety of people from
different backgrounds, this should be
a fascinating night and one certainly
not to be missed.
Doors are at 8.30pm and the
show will start at 9pm. To avoid
interruptions, doors will be closed until
the interval at 9.40pm. Entrance is
free of charge. To get an idea of what to
expect, click on themoth.org or radiolab.
org. La Fenetre Soleil is at 44 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1, HCMC
ToDo
list HCMC
Saigonella Art and Music

Festival
Sweet B are one of the acts performing at this months music and arts festival, Saigonella
The Vietnam International Coffee and Dessert Fair will take place from Jun. 8 to Jun. 10
Acclaimed musician Geva Alon will be playing at Saigon Ranger on Jun. 9 and Jun. 10
1.
2.
3.
Club House Tan Thuan, Q7

Saturday, Jun. 4
This June Saigon is getting its own
music festival. A celebration of art,
electronic music and community,
Saigonella is the festival on your
doorstep in District 7. Partnering with
Clean Up Vietnam, the organisers
are working hard to respect the
environment while giving you a new
venue to get your dancing shoes dirty.
There will be an assortment of
musicians playing throughout the
day. The Main Stage will be hosting
NDM, Souk Le Soleil, Datodeo,
Dimitri, Sweet B. & Phonic D, Le
Seed, Youss and more. There will be
more artists as well performing at
the Garden Stage, and a load of acts
to be announced soon.
In addition there will be a balance
of relaxation areas and party at the
stages, so that anyone can find nonstop fun events over the course of the
afternoon and evening. These will
include a BBQ, a market, a recycling
workshop, an art exhibition from
Jack Clayton, theatre, tree planting
by Cyp, African dance, drum
workshops and much more.
Saigonella Art and Music Festival
is on Saturday, Jun. 4. Tickets are
available at ticketbox.vn, or from Le
Bouchon de Saigon (40 Thai Van Lung,
Q1, HCMC), Kokois (24 Thao Dien,

Q2, HCMC) and Pitchers Sports and
Grill (C0.01 Riverside Residence,
Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, HCMC). The
festival will be held at the Club House,
22 Sang Tao, Q7, HCMC and ticket
prices start at VND250,000. For more
information email saigonella@gmail.
com or click on facebook.com/saigonella
Saigon Summer Ball

Park Hyatt Hotel, Q1
Saturday, Jun. 4
To celebrate midsummer, Saigon
Childrens Charity is holding its
7th Annual Saigon Summer Ball
on Saturday, Jun. 4. Held to raise
important funds for their work
with disadvantaged children, since
its inception in 2009, the Saigon
Childrens Charity Summer Ball has
raised almost US$370,000 to support
their work in Vietnam.
Bringing together many key
people from both the international
and Vietnamese social and business
worlds, the event is designed to be a
night of great celebration and style,
with the added benefit of raising
much needed funds. Tickets are
already selling fast so, book quickly.
For ticket bookings, please email
saigonsummerball@saigonchildren.com
or call 0901 393502 or (08) 3930 3502.
Tickets are priced at VND3,800,000 per
person or VND38 million for a table of 10
Vietnam International Coffee

and Dessert Fair
SECC, Q7
Wednesday, Jun. 8 to Friday, Jun. 10
Coffee addicts and everyone with
a sweet tooth, listen up: this June
there will be a two-day Vietnam
International Coffee and Dessert Fair
in Ho Chi Minh City. This exhibition
is an opportunity for importers,
exporters, consumers and retail
businesses to get together and bask in
the glory of coffee beans and sugar.
There will be a host of events
and specials during the exhibition
including the Vietnam Super
Barista Championship, a one-day
class programme, biz matching and
lucky bags.
SECC is located at 799 Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, HCMC and runs from
10am to 5pm. For more info click on
vietcoffeefair.com/en
Geva Alon
Saigon Ranger, Q1
Jun. 9 and Jun. 10
The critically acclaimed musician,
Geva Alon, will be playing at
Saigon Ranger for two nights on
Jun. 9 and Jun. 10.
A household name in his native
Israel, the guitarist and singer
songwriter often compared to
Neil Young will be taking to the
ToDo
list HCMC
Drink and paint at the same time with Canvas and Wine
Renowned DJ and producer Young Marco will play at Observatory
2.
3.
Phu Quoc holds its first international marathon
1.
3
stage with his newly formed band,
Vegan Friendly.
Having toured with the likes
of Macy Gray and Paul Weller,
Geva has worked extensively with
famed producer Thom Monahan
(Devendra Banhart, Vetiver, Silver
Jews, Dinosaur Jr, Jayhawks).
However, his latest project with
Vegan Friendly will mean a lot
of new material, composed and
arranged over the past few months.
This will be Gevas first time in
Vietnam and it should be quite a show.
Geva Alons Vegan Friendly band is
made up of Geva Alon on guitars and
vocal, Jango on bass and vocals, and Assaf
Riess on drums. They will be playing at
Saigon Ranger on Thursday, Jun. 9 and
Friday Jun. 10. Tickets are available on
ticketbox.vn. To listen to his music, do a
search on YouTube for Geva Alon
course for the Phu Quoc Marathon

has been created that combines
running with national park scenery
and views of the ocean. Plotted
through the southern half of the
island along one of the most scenic
stretches of beaches in South East
Asia, many events are scheduled
the main race of 42km (Full
Marathon), plus the shorter 21km
(Half Marathon), 10km, 5km and a
1km kids race, all finishing inside
the grounds of Long Beach Resort
Phu Quoc, where athletes are
welcome to run straight into the
refreshing ocean.
If you havent registered, then come
along and cheer on the runners. If you
do want to put in a late entry, then click
on sportingrepublic/phuquocmarathon
Phu Quoc International

Marathon
Observatory, Q4
Saturday, Jun. 11
Phu Quoc Island

Saturday, Jun. 11
Young Marco is a name many will

have heard before and this night is a
chance to hear exactly what makes
this Dutchman the formidable DJ and
Tagged the Run in Paradise, a
Young Marco
producer he is known as globally.

This will be one of the highlights of
the month. Support comes from Nic
Ford and Hibiya Line.
Canvas and Wine: Wire

Sculpture Night
VinSpace, Q2
Thursday, Jun. 16
Ever wanted to let your imagination
wild and create 3D sculptures? Vin
Gallery is hosting a wire sculpture
night where they will guide you
through the process of drawing
in three dimensions by bending,
weaving, pinching and spiralling
wire. Using this versatile and flexible
material is extremely satisfying,
especially with a good glass of wine
in hand.
VinSpace is located at 6 Le Van Mien,
Q2, HCMC. For enquiries contact the
gallery on 0907 729846 or find them
online at vin-space.com/canvas-and-wine/
ToDo
list HCMC
Jimmy The Whirlwind White
Dicky Triscos coming to town again. Oh yes!
VinSpaces summer camps start in late June and run until the end of August
2.
3.
Snooker legend Jimmy White is playing an exhibition match on Jun. 17
1.
Evita, Q2
Friday, Jun. 17
If you know your snooker, youll
know Jimmy White, one of the
legends of the game. The winner
of 30 international tournaments
(including the world title) and
former number two in the world,
for one night only the man himself
will be playing in an exhibition
nine-ball pool event against Vietnam
champion, Luong Chi Dung at Evita
Bistronomie in District 2.
Tickets for two are going for
VND3.9 million and include a
three-course dinner for two, coffee,
a bottle of wine, a signed hardback
copy of Jimmys latest book, Second
Wind, and a framed photograph.
This is a unique, not-to-miss
event, so grab your tickets early.
01203 458205 or email events@oibme.
com. Evita is at 230 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, HCMC. The event kicks off at 6.30pm
Aquatuki
Observatory, Q4
Friday, Jun. 17
Live performance involving guitars,
synthesizers and drum machines

from this experientially-focused
group from Japan. Support comes
from Hibiya Line.
VinSpace Summer Camp

VinSpace, Q2
Jun. 20 to Aug. 26
Summer is quickly approaching, but
VinSpace has an arts-based summer
camp ready for your children to
keep them entertained all morning.
Offering a world tour of creativity,

the camp will run with a schedule
themed on different locations each
week, showing a whole planets
worth of culture and creative fun.
The summer programme offers a
mixture of group activities, different
mediums, and three hours worth
of arts and craft entertainment and
learning every day. The program is
run by instructors who speak fluent
English.
VinSpace Summer Camp runs from
Jun. 20 to Aug. 26 from 9am to 12pm,
Monday to Friday. VinSpace is located
at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. For
enquiries contact the gallery on 0907
MAD HOUSE
2ND LOCATION
3
IS NOW OPEN
IN DISTRICT 7
MAD House D7
E V E R Y D AY
FROM
11 AM - 10 PM
No.2 street C,Tan Phu Ward, Dist 7

2nd floor at Capri by Fraser
729846 or click on facebook.com/
VinGallery
Dicky Trisco
Observatory, Q4
Friday, Jun. 24
Disco deviant, dance floor
commander and all-round
master of sound, Dicky Trisco is
back to shake our tail feathers.
Big time! Support comes from
Nic Ford.
08 5417 1234
Facebook.com/MADhouseD7
MAD House D2
E V E R Y D AY
FROM
08 AM - 10 PM
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di,

Thao Dien, Dist 2
08 3519 4009
Facebook.com/MADsaigon
ToDo
list HCMC
Acclaimed UK comic Will Mars will be playing at Game On on Jun. 29
The BBGVs third installment of their annual football tournament takes place on Jul. 16
Sierra Sam and Pascal Hetzel, coming soon to a place near you
1.
2.
3.
Game On Saigon, Q1
Wednesday, Jun. 29
Saigon International Comedy really
upped the ante last month with
Turner Sparks, MC Chris Wegoda
and comics from the local scene bellysplitting a full house. For June, expect
it to go into lift off mode, thanks to a
comic living on a diet of rocket fuel,
Will Mars. You want explosive? This
guys nuclear.
A British Comedian living in New
York, Wills first solo Asia tour Schtick
Shift will take in Singapore, Malaysia,
Hong Kong, China, Thailand,
Indonesia and of course Vietnam.
And expect it to be a good un. This
guys got some serious accolades
stitched onto his t-shirt: Finalist in the
English Comedian of the year Award
2014; Top 50 Best Ever Jokes at the
Edinburgh Fringe (The Scotsman); Top
50 Funniest One-Liners Ever (Daily
Mail); Top 10 Funniest Jokes of the
Edinburgh Fringe (Dave TV).
Hes even got a few quotes to
back up all the hype: Took the room
to a new level with lines that defy
you not to laugh BBC1 Spotlight
and Punctures an expectation and
implies a whole bizarre reality
The Guardian.
Interested? Youd better be. And
to make this a night to remember,
the organisers are bringing back the

much-loved Singaporean comic, Jinx
Yeo. If you were there the night he
performed last year, youll remember
how funny this guy is.
Will Mars will be playing at Game
On Saigon, 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1,
HCMC. Entrance is VND200,000
and doors are at 8pm. For more info
or table reservations, email nick@
saigoninternationalcomedy.com
BBGV Football Tournament

RMIT University, Q7
Saturday, Jul. 16
BBGV are accepting sponsorship and
team registration for the 3rd InterCompany Football Tournament for
Charity in Ho Chi Minh City.
This seven-a-side competition will
bring 16 teams together to compete
for the championship title. Colleagues,
families, sponsors, associates and
volunteers will support and cheer
on the football teams throughout the
day, while raising funds for registered
charities across Vietnam.
After two successful tournaments
in 2014 and 2015 with over 700
participants and almost VND400
million in proceeds going to good
causes, dont miss out on the third
opportunity for a day of fun, football
and fundraising.
The tournament will take place at
RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh,

Q7, HCMC from 8.30am to 5pm. If you
are interested in participating, please
contact Nga at nga.nguyen@bbgv.org or
call (08) 3829 8430 by Jun. 16
Danang Marathon
Bien Dong Park, Danang
Saturday, Aug. 6
Get your running shoes on and
start training because the Danang
International Marathon is back. There
are four distances available meaning
that everyone can get involved; full
marathon, half marathon, 10km and
5km fun run for charity.
The Danang International
Marathon is the first professional
marathon in Vietnam certified
by IAAF AIMS (International
Assication of Athletics Federations
and Association of International
Marathons and Distance Races).
Prepare yourself for the gorgeous
scenery of Danang city, from the
beautiful beaches and coastline to
the mountain views, and the city
exploration, you will see some of
the most beautiful sights all during
sunrise.
The Danang International Marathon
will take place at Bien Dong Park,
Saturday Aug. 6. For more info,
please contact info@pulse.vn or visit
rundanang.com
IN
Just
HCMC
Art contests,
rescued
wildlife, new
flight routes
and Babas
Kitchen in
Hoi An
1
New additions to Anupas Love of Details collection
The Saigon-Vung Tau hydrofoil service gets itself three new boats
4.
The Owstons civet
2.
3.
Westcoast has now opened up premises in District 2
1.
Westcoast Dental Has Moved

Westcoast Dental Studio has recently
moved to Thao Dien from its clinic
on Dong Khoi. The international
team of dentists will now be
providing the full range of dental
services in District 2.
The Thao Dien clinic is open 9am
to 6pm, Monday to Friday, and 9am
to 12pm on Saturday.
Westcoast is now located at 27
Nguyen Ba Lan, Q2, HCMC. For more
info click on westcoastinternational.com
or call (08) 3519 1777
First Owstons Civet Rescue

in 14 Years
An Owstons Civet who had been kept
as a pet in Dong Nai province since
2014 has been successfully rescued
and voluntarily handed over to Save
Vietnams Wildlife by its former owner.
The Owstons Civet (chrotogate

owstoni) is the rarest of the civet
species in Vietnam and has been
prioritised for protection by the
government. Luu Quang Mat,
who bought two Owstons Civets
in 2014 from a local hunter, raised
them without knowing they were a
prohibited species. After the death of
one of the civets due to weakness, he
decided to hand in the second civet.
The Carnivore and Pangolin
Conservation Program (CPCP) and
Save Vietnams Wildlife will work to
monitor the animal to ensure it is in
full health before releasing it back to
the wild.
For more info click on
savevietnamswildlife.org
Love of Details Collection

Coming this June at Anupa
boutique it is all about the details.

Fresh into Ho Chi Minh City are
Simone Iranis Neon Sandals
straight from India. These gorgeous
shoes are available in large sizes,
and are totally unique; out of the
one billion people in India, only
Simone Irani is contemporising the
traditional Indian sandal into neon
colours. Each pair costs VND1.1
million.
Also on now in stock are Miguel
La Salle leather cuffs. Each of these
is made by hand using two different
colours of leather and promise to
help you complete any outfit. Small
cuffs cost VND990,000 and large
cuffs cost VND1.1 million.
Anupa Boutique is located at 9 Dong
Du, Q1, HCMC, and 8 Tran Ngoc Dien,
Q2, HCMC. For more info click on
anupa.net
MOVING?
New Boat to Vung Tau

After being beset by crashes
and fires, the hydrofoils
from Ho Chi Minh City to
Vung Tau are getting an
upgrade courtesy of one of the
operators, Green Lines.
The new catamarans cost
about US$1 million each and
run on German-built engines.
The journey time to Vung Tau
is still one hour and 15 minutes,
while the price per adult is
VND250,000. However, most
important is the safety factor.
Departing three times a day
during the week, and four times
a day at weekends, you can rely
on these boats to get you to your
destination in one piece the
previous vessels are well over 40
years old.
Call Us
SAIGON
SCOOTER
1/4
BLEED
PREVEIW 1
IN
Just
HCMC
GreeOx is growing and supplying clean, uncontaminated vegetables to your door
The winners of this years Smiles Art Contest
Laucala Island in Fiji. Now you can fly there from Vietnam via Singapore. Tempting!
Babas brings their excellent Indian cuisine to Hoi An
1.
2.
3.
4.
GreeOx
Worried about contaminated
vegetables? GreeOx is bringing
their fresh and safe vegetables
direct to your door.
Founded in 2012 in the U.S,
and launched in Saigon two years
ago, GreeOx has developed an
automated growing unit, which
allows vegetables to be grown
anywhere, anytime of the year.
These units are shipping containers
called Grobim, where plants are
stacked on top each other with the
water, temperature, humidity and
other variables controlled to ensure
perfect growing conditions.
GreeOx offers various
membership packages for
individuals and groups. Simply
sign up, pay the subscription fee
and give your address. A box of
fresh and clean vegetables will
be delivered to you each week or
month for less than the half of the

price the same products would cost
in a supermarket.
GreeOx is at 36/30 D2 Street, Binh
Thanh. Call 0902 917771 for more info
Smiles Art Contest 2016

Westcoast International Dental
Clinic organises their annual
Smiles Art contest to create dental
awareness among children, and
now this years results are in.
The 2016 competition, however,
came with a little twist: the
entrants had to create drawings
on the theme of Superhero Saves
Teeth. Hundreds of beautiful,
creative entries later from both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City,
Westcoast have chosen their
winners. They are:
Grand Prize. The iPad Air 2 this
year went to Trinh Khoa, Class 3K,
European International School

2nd Place. The Playstation 4 was
won by Vo Ngoc Diep, Class 2B,
American International School
3rd Place. The camera was won
by Joonwoo Lee, Class 2H, ABC
International School
For more info click on
westcoastinternational.com
Flights from Vietnam to the

Pacific Islands
Despite their proximity to
Southeast Asia, in the past flights to
the Pacific Islands have all been run
via Australia and New Zealand.
This has now all changed thanks
to a new partnership between
Fiji Airways and Jetstar. Flying
via Singapore, you can now fly
from Vietnam to Nadi in Fiji and
onwards into the South Pacific on
one single ticket.
3
With twice-weekly direct flights
from Fiji to Singapore, Fiji Airways
and Jetstar customers will be able
to book flights and check-through
baggage when purchasing tickets
from Fiji Airways sales channels,
including its website, online travel
sites, sales offices and reservation
centres.
For more info or to book your
flights, click on fijiairways.com
4
Babas Kitchen in Hoi An

That arbiter of great South and
North Indian cuisine, Babas
Kitchen, has now opened its doors
in Hoi An, perfect for when you get
tired of all that cao lau and Hoi An
chicken rice youve been stuffing
down your throat.
Serving up the same menu as
this institution offers up in Saigon,
vindaloos, jalfrazis, masalas and
tandoor-style tikkas and kebabs
share menu space with dosas,
vadas and uthappam, with most
meat dishes costing around the
VND100,000 mark.
So when youre next in the
tourism capital of Vietnam, you
know where to run to escape all
that culture and all those package
tourists.
Babas Kitchen is at 115 Phan Chu
Trinh, Cam Pho, Hoi An, Tel: (0510)
653 1999
ToDo
listHanoi
Exhibitions,
surreal
Japanese
bands,
cooking
classes,
Afrobeat and
a comedian
from Mars.
Theres a lot to
look forward
to this month!
Films from the Berlin

Festival
Goethe-Institut, Ba Dinh
Jun. 2 and Jun. 3
The institute will present nine
films from five countries, which
were all part of the Berlinale Shorts
2015. The Berlinale Shorts is the
short film programme of the Berlin
International Film Festival.
The offerings vary from
documentaries to fictional stories,
to animated movies. Central themes
are personal life stories and rituals,
portraying longing, love, cruelty and
absurdism. Some of the films give
thought-provoking impulses, others
open up a whole new world to the
viewer. They show life on another
planet, but also the earthly dangers
emanating from humans and the
power of nature.
The Goethe-Institut is at 56-58
Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. The
event kicks off at 7pm and entrance is free.
For info, click on goethe.de/ins/vn/en/ or
email thuha.dang@hanoi.goethe.org
My Little Happiness
5. Chef Ming from the JW Marriott
4. French DJ Fulbert is playing at ATK in early June
A wall of art by artist, Dinh Y Nhi, who is exhibiting at Art Vietnam this month
2.
3.Franz Scala plays ATK
A still from the movie short, Another City
1.
Art Vietnam Gallery, Hoan Kiem

Jun. 3 to Jul. 1
Art Vietnam will present the new
works of Dinh Y Nhi. One of
Vietnams most celebrated female
artists, Nhi dared to confront
convention and break with
traditional feminine expression in
1995 with her stark black-and-white
stick figures on paper and their bold
stance facing the world.
This latest body of work, My Little
Happiness, is a meditation on life, on
treasuring every solitary moment.
Art Vietnam Gallery is at 24 Ly Quoc
Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. The exhibition
runs until Jul. 1
Slow Motion Italian Dance

Wave
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung
Friday, Jun. 3
Franz Scala is the head of Slow
Motion, an Italian dance label based
in Berlin. Aside from producing on
his own imprint, he has releases on
4
World Unknown, Tusk Wax and
Bordello a Parigi. He has showcased
producers such as Beppe Loda,
Francisco and Ajello. He also
promotes many events around the
German capital such as the monthly
Wrong Era parties or the Magic
Waves Festival.
And now he is heading to Hanoi.
Prepare yourself for a night of
Italian, hedonistic fun.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De,
Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm
and entrance is free of charge
Cocoon Wrapped in ACCV

Hanoi Rock City, Tay Ho
Jun. 3 to Jun. 4
Part of the upcoming Australian
Charity for Children in Vietnam

(ACCV) event at Hanoi Rock City
will be a performing arts play called
Cocoon. According to the producers,
Cocoon is an independent
production that delicately merges
contemporary dance and theatre
to give an honest account of life
and the intrinsic nature of light
and darkness within it. Following
the play itself, Hanoi Rock City
will be host to a variety of artistic
expression performances, including
theatre, poetry, magic, comedy,
music and more.
Hanoi Rock City is at 27 Ngo 52
To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For
more info click on the official HRC
Facebook page facebook.com/pages/
Hanoi-Rock-City/529653453748632
Once reserved exclusively for royalty,

tranquil Westlake now boasts
Hanois Gold-Standard serviced residences.
Minutes from the city with unobstructed
lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers
you the award-winning service even
ancient kings would envy.
Fulbert
Saturday, Jun. 4
Timothe Victorri (aka Fulbert) is
a young French DJ with a wide
range of skills. As well as being a
DJ and producer, Fulbert is also
the owner of his own record label,
Rawthenticity. He has been DJing
for a long time but it was his 2011
EP Garden State 92 that pushed
him into the spotlight. His mixes
are meticulous and diversified
and you never know where the
set he is playing will take you to.
That range of different styles is
present in his productions, where
he is capable of releasing four
tracks on the same EP with totally
different vibes.
Expect something a little
special during his show at ATK.
Not one to miss.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac
De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are
at 8pm. Entrance TBA
Chinese Cooking Class

at Marriott
JW Marriott, Tu Liem
Jun. 4, 11, 18 and 25
THE FRASER COLLECTION

BAHRAIN BANGALORE BANGKOK BEIJING BUDAPEST
CHENGDU DOHA DUBAI EDINBURGH GLASGOW
GUANGZHOU GURGAON HANOI HO CHI MINH CITY
HONG KONG ISTANBUL JAKARTA KUALA LUMPUR
LONDON MANILA MELBOURNE NANJING NEW DELHI
OSAKA PARIS PERTH SEOUL SHANGHAI
SHENZHEN SINGAPORE SUZHOU SYDNEY TIANJIN
WUHAN WUXI CHENNAI (2014) AL KHOBAR (2015)
FRANKFURT (2015) RIYADH (2014)
Each Saturday in June, from

2pm to 3pm, every guest
dining in the Crystal Jade
Palace restaurant will have an
opportunity to learn cooking
from the best, as Chef Ming
from Crystal Jade Palace hosts
ToDo
listHanoi
5. The Hanoi New Music Ensemble will be experimenting with music at the Goethe-Institut
4. Bangkok-based Delfin Solomon will be playing at being a comedian at Signal Flair
Saxophone duo Halfsound will be blowing the audience to smithereens at Manzi
2.
3. Japanese band Aquatuki need no photos. A logo will suffice (theyre playing at ATK, by the way
Art For You returns in early June, this time to a larger venue
1.
a unique cooking class to share his

years of knowledge and passion.
To win a seat at this special class,
guests need only fill in the lucky
draw form.
For further information, please
contact (04) 3833 5588. The JW
Marriott is at 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri,
South Tu Liem, Hanoi
Affordable Art for You

Exhibition Centre for Fine Art and
Photography, Hoan Kiem
Jun. 5 to Jun. 12
Art For You, the affordable art fair
organised by Manzi Art Space and
Work Room Four, is hosting its
latest exhibition geared towards
selling locally produced art at
prices the majority can afford. The
idea is to remove the sometimes
elitist nature of more traditional
art gallery sales. So popular have
the previous events been, that Art
For You has now moved to a larger
space.
The exhibition will offer work
created by over 100 artists,
showing over 300 works of art.
Artists are specifically requested to

examine their repertoire and select
older, unsold works, preparatory
sketches and smaller prints or
photography (and create new
work) that they feel is good value.
Prices start at US$25.
The Exhibition Centre for Fine Art
and Photography is at 29 Hang Bai,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. The exhibition will
be open daily from 10am to 8pm
Saxophone Duo Blows In

Manzi, Ba Dinh
Thursday, Jun. 9
Halfsound, a contemporary
saxophone duo from Melbourne,
Australia, will appear at Manzi
as part of a series of concerts
for saxophone duos and
electronics composed by 10 young
Australian composers. With a
particular interest in the new and
experimental music of Southeast
Asia, the duo undertook an
extended self-directed residency in
Hanoi from 2014 to 2015.
This one should be very, very
interesting.
Entry is free, but due to limited seating

capacity, prior registration is advised.
Email manzihanoi@gmail.com to reserve
your seats. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich,
Ba Dinh, Hanoi. The show kicks off at 8pm
Aqatuki
Saturday, Jun. 18
Space is the place as sonic
astronauts Aqatuki make their
Hanoi debut at CAMA ATK on
Jun. 18. Inspired by the industrial
futurescape of their home town
Amagasaki, the Japanese fourpiece meld psych-rock, dub and
electronica in a sprawling astral
groove that is guaranteed to get
feet moving. With bright guitars,
an undercurrent of blues and a
nod to the summer soul of Shuggie
Otis, Aqatuki are as uplifting and
intoxicating as they are eclectic.
Definitely one show not to miss
this month.
AQATUKI will be taking flight at
CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai
Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm.
Entrance TBA.
Signal Flair
Hanoi Rock City, Tay Ho
Saturday, Jun. 18
Signal Flair makes its debut in

Hanoi, promising an evening of
live art, film screenings, spoken
word poetry and stand-up
comedy, followed by live music
and a party. The event borrows
from the established night held in
Bangkok.
Performers include DJ Nemo,
Unda, Leroy Jenkonius (creator
of the Sallsavage EP), Tien Dung,
Delfin Solomon, Bedroom Poet
and Ngot. Entrance is VND100,000
and includes one free drink, either
Magners Irish Cider or Heverlee
Belgium Beer.
The event starts at 7pm and goes
on to 2am. Hanoi Rock City is at 27
Ngo 52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Contemporary Music
Concert
Goethe-Institut, Ba Dinh
Jun. 18 and Jun. 19
The Goethe-Institut Hanoi

and DomDom, the hub for
experimental music and art, are
presenting a concert by the Hanoi
New Music Ensemble (HNME),
which was founded in 2015 by
the initiative of the composer Vu
Nhat Tan, violinist Pham Truong
Son and American conductor Jeff
von der Schmidt. The new group
is eager to bring Vietnamese and
international contemporary music
to a broad Vietnamese public.
The concert kicks off at 7pm and
the Goethe-Institut is at 56-58
Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi.
Admission is free of charge. For more
info email kimchung.pham@hanoi.
goethe.org
ToDo
listHanoi
Wave from Africa
Afrobeat makes a beeline to ATK at the end of June
British comic Will Mars is descending on our fine city. Better get ready for lift off!
Be prepared! The Hanoi Vertical Run is coming next month
1.
2.
3.

Saturday, Jun. 25
Saigon-based DJ Dan Lo will be
bringing his West African Waves
set to ATK, with sounds ranging
from traditional percussive rhythms
from Cameroon and the funk of
1960s Ghana and Benin, all the way
through to Nigerian Afrobeat and its
modern house-infused edits.
This will be one to make the room
shake and the punters dance, nonstop. Its gonna get sweaty.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De,
Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi and doors are at
8pm. Entrance TBA

Thursday, Jun. 30
CAMA Comedy really upped the
ante last month with Turner Sparks
and MC Chris Wegoda bellysplitting a full house. For June,
expect it to go into lift off mode,

thanks to a comic living on a diet
of rocket fuel, Will Mars. You want
explosive? This guys nuclear.
A British Comedian living in New
York, Wills first solo Asia tour Schtick
Shift will take in Singapore, Malaysia,
Hong Kong, China, Thailand,
Indonesia and of course Vietnam.
And expect it to be a good un. This
guys got some serious accolades
stitched onto his t-shirt: Finalist in the
English Comedian of the year Award
2014; Top 50 Best Ever Jokes at the
Edinburgh Fringe (The Scotsman); Top
50 Funniest One-Liners Ever (Daily
Mail); Top 10 Funniest Jokes of the
Edinburgh Fringe (Dave TV).
Hes even got a few quotes to
back up all the hype: Took the room
to a new level with lines that defy
you not to laugh BBC1 Spotlight
and Punctures an expectation and
implies a whole bizarre reality
The Guardian.
Interested? Youd better be.
Will Mars will be playing at CAMA
ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,

Hanoi. Entrance is VND200,000 and
doors are at 8pm. For more info or table
reservations, email danbuff@gmail.com
The Hanoi Vertical Run

Landmark 72, My Dinh
Saturday, Jul. 9
Registration is continuing for
Vietnams highest stair climbing
race, the Hanoi Vertical Run.
Runners will embark upon the
ascent of Vietnams tallest building,
Landmark 72, facing the challenge
of climbing 350 metres, 72 floors and
1,914 steps if they want to cross the
finish line and enjoy the view at the
top. Organisers Sporting Republic
expect to attract the full complement
of 500 runners across the various
categories for the Jul. 9 event.
The participation fee is between
US$20 and US$25 per person. To
register and get more information, click
on the event website: sportingrepublic.
com/hanoiverticalrun
BWT BEWAMAT SERIES

Soft water makes you feel good
Enjoy, protect and save with BWT

soft water
Enjoy silky - soft water 24/7

Limescale protection for bathroom
and pipes
Save money and time
Vietnam's favourite
Brazilian restaurant.
,
DISHES
W
E
N
H
N OW WIT D A NEW FEEL.
OK AN
O
L
W
NE
Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC

238 Pasteur, Dist. 3
Tel: (08) 3820 7157 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682
pr@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi

6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist
Tel: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330
pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil III Nha Trang

101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward
Tel: (058) 351 6661 - Hotline : 0916451669
pr_nhatrang@aulacdobrazil.com
IN
Just
Hanoi
Hungry
pigs, clothes
shops,
teacher and
student apps
and cocktail
happy hours.
Whats new
this month
Myriad & Dreamers

The venue the used to be M Cafe
has shifted gears. In a loft-like space
off Au Co with lots of natural light
flooding in, the owners have seen
more potential in retail than coffee.
After a makeover, they now sell
handcrafted home decor, finished
with olive oil and beeswax, in the
VND50,000 to VND200,000 range.
The top floor is packed with
secondhand clothes, mostly
for women, starting at around
VND50,000 an item.
Myriad & Dreamers is at 1A Au Co,
Tay Ho, Hanoi. The shop is open from
from 9am to 9pm
The Fat Pig. Need we say any more?
Angelina goes two for the price of one on cocktails
The Savant app matches teachers with students
6.
Oasis continues its expansion in West Lake
3.
5.
O Douceurs brings its patisserie-cum-caf delights to West Lake
2.
4.
Myriad & Dreamers is located on the space formerly occupied by M Caf
1.
O Douceurs
The much-loved patisserie has
expanded into Tay Ho, opening a new
location off To Ngoc Van, just past
Hanoi Rock City. Its a tiny cafe with
mostly outdoor seating, selling the
same delicious made-to-order cakes
and coffee that the brand is known for.
With coffee starting at VND20,000
and juices going for VND50,000,
there is also a range of sandwiches
available for around VND35,000,
making this an affordable new
option for those living and working
in West Lake.
The new O Douceurs is at 37/52 To
Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi
2
Oasis Takeaway
Oasis has opened yet another
off-shoot of their popular Italian
grocery store. This one, on the corner
of Xuan Dieu and Dang Thai Mai,
does rotisserie chicken, homemade
lasagna, and also boasts a salad bar
takeaway, among much, much more.
A smorgasbord of deli-style delights,
prices start at VND20,000 per 100
grammes. Delivery is free of charge.
Oasis Takeaway is at 57 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Hanoi
The Fat Pig

Carnivores rejoice! That stretch of
bars and restaurants running along
the lake from Warehouse has just got
itself another player, The Fat Pig.
A southern BBQ-style eatery,
the joint cooks up fresh cuts of
pork, from brisket to shoulder to
sausage. Ribs go for VND60,000,
and an assortment of sides like
okra tempura (VND60,000)
and dirty fries (VND80,000)
complement the meat perfect for

all you vegetarians out there (sic!).
Open for dinner from 4.30pm to
11.30pm, The Fat Pig is at 74 Quang
An, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Angelina Happy Hour

Angelina at the Sofitel Metropole
has a new summer cocktail menu
for happy hour, between 4pm and
7pm every day, perfect for anyone
6
desperate to escape the Hanoi
heat.
The summery and colourful
flavours include Red Palace
(red), Highroller (orange), Green
Lake (green), Lazy Lover (clear,
with lychee), Bulleit Que (with
rosemary). All of which are
available on a buy-one-get-onefree basis.
Also on sale are the bartenders
classic cocktail selection,
Angelinas sommeliers wine

selection, imported and local beers.
Angelina is at the Sofitel
Metropole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo
Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Savant Goes Mobile

Developer TEFL Express has
released an Android and iOSfriendly app which matches TEFL
teachers to students in Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. The

Savant app is a new approach
to teaching and learning English
and will be free to download and
use. It gives users control of their
teaching and learning experiences,
matching students and teachers
based on learning abilities,
expertise, age and location.
The app is now available on the
Apple App Store on devices above
IOS 8.0, and Google Play.
Insider
Running the Hash / The Five Stages of Expat / How to Build a Tourist Town / Not Only Cheap, Its Flea / Mystery
Diner Hanoi / Fowl Play / Mystery Diner HCMC / Banh Trang Trang Bang / The Tourification of Tonsai / The Other Side
of Maldives / Notes From Another City: The Hoi An Tourist Trap / The Motorbike Diaries Part 15
Photo by Jesse Meadows
Insider
The running club obsessed with booze has been
hitting the streets of Vietnam for more than a quarter
of a century. Emily Petsko and Sin Kavanagh meet
the runners behind the names and the drinkers
behind the ample amounts of beer.
Photos by Jesse Meadows and Rodney Hughes
ith names like Sore Arse,

Cunning Linguist and Donald
Tramp, theyre quite the
motley crew. The group,
members of an international drinking
club with a running problem called the
Hash House Harriers, gathers once a week
across Vietnam to run, walk and discover
their way across Vietnams countryside.
They follow pre-set trails of flour or
shredded paper laid by hares and only
make one pit stop, as long as they can find
the hidden beer.
The Hanoi chapter of Hash House
Harriers will celebrate its 25th anniversary
this October with a three-day hashing
extravaganza outside of the city. Items on
the agenda that weekend include a pubcrawl Friday night and party Saturday night,
culminating in a 6:00 Sunday: get rid of
hangover (not included in run fees).
The Saigon chapter was established
back in August 1990, as legend goes, by
three drunken expats in a pub. They took
it upon themselves to set the first run and
spread the news word-of-mouth. Now, 26
years and 1,346 odd runs later, the Saigon
Hash is still jogging, sweating and drinking
their way around the Southern Vietnamese
countryside.
Hashing is part scavenger hunt, part
run (or walk, if youd prefer that) and
part banter-filled drink fest. This killer
combination makes for a tight-knit
community that you can trace across the
world. The beauty is that you can travel
from Vietnam to Vienna to Antarctica, and
still be able to find a Hash to keep your
Sunday routine.
Hashing started in Malaysia expat
community in the late 1930s as a
motivational way to get them out of the
city once a week and exercising. Hashing
started its global takeover in the 1960s, and
today most Hashes cater to local residents
as well as expats.
The concept is for two hares to visit
the site in advance and lay a trail, which
typically winds through wooded areas, rice
paddies and small neighborhoods. Fake,
dead-end trails force the frontrunners (or
fast running bastards) to double back, giving
the groups slower movers a chance to catch
up. Hares can spend up to 10 hours the week
before a Hash prepping the trail, and even
then you can never quite predict what will
happen the day of the run.
INSIDER
NATIONAL
Running the Hash
Hanoi
Group members call each other by their
hash names, playful and typically
raunchy noms de guerre that are earned after
racking up at least a half-dozen runs. Birth
names are taboo, and members occupations
and backgrounds are unimportant details.
For a group that takes pride in its rituals
and formalities, however debauched they
may be, the group isnt exactly a secret
society. It welcomes people of all ages and
levels of fitness, and has a large group of
walkers. That marks a departure from the
original spirit of the Hanoi group, which
was more of an in-crowd, according to
the groups longest-running member, Van
Dyke, of the Netherlands.
Rule number one, theres no rules, he
says. Rule number two, which we dont
have, is that everybodys equal. Weve been
running with ambassadors, but you can

still charge them for stupid offenses or
whatever. Nobodys better than somebody
else.
Perhaps there are no rules, but there
are punishable offences outlined by hash
lore. One is to avoid wearing new shoes,
or youll be forced to chug beer out of them.
Members must always wear hash-themed
T-shirts and call members by their hash
names if theyve already been baptised
by the groups religious advisor, who
conducts rituals and inaugurates new
members.
A breach of the code can land you a down
down an order to down a cup or can of
beer, or worse yet: having to sit on ice.
Ice, ice, ice! members chant at the
hare, a young Vietnamese woman who
had marked the trail earlier and, after

forgetting where she had dropped the next
splotch of flour, got the walkers stuck in a
maze-like neighbourhood cordoned off by
identical brick walls.
The groups newly-erected
grandmaster Rambo, who hails from
the US, is charged with mismanaging
the group. He said they rarely run into
problems, except for a recent weekend in
Dong Hoi during one of their biannual
extended trips. The police ordered them to
stop running, so instead they toured caves
and drank more beer.
Sometimes the locals get a little bit
ticked off when youre going through their
area, but thats rare. Most of them just think
were a bunch of silly foreigners running
around, he says, paying no mind to the
small group of locals who have gathered to

watch.
On average, about 40 people attend each
hash, which is held outside of Hanoi in the
countryside. One Australian hasher known
as Madame Lash was visiting Vietnam
with her husband, Flasher, and they
opted to join the Hanoi group one sunny
Saturday.
She said their first port of call in any
country is to check for a local hashing club.
As a former expat in Bali, she has hashed
all over Asia, Canada and New Zealand for
28 years.
You see so much more of the
countryside than you do as a tourist, she
says. You get to meet expats, locals, while
youre there. Its just a great way to get in
and socialise.
You see so
much more of the
countryside than you
do as a tourist. You
get to meet expats,
locals, while youre
there. Its just a great
way to get in and
socialise
Saigon
In a million years, I would never consider
myself a runner. There are many activities,
cardiovascular or not, that I would rather
do than go for a run. It wasnt until five
minutes into the hash, stumbling along in the
35-degree heat in Dong Nai province, that I
realized what Id gotten myself into.
The day was hot on my skin even though
it was 4pm and although most of the heat
had started to leave the sunlight; the sweat
wouldnt stop rolling in big fat beads down
my arms and forehead. On on! rippled the
cries of the front-running bastards who lead
us through fish farms, sandy paths, muddy
ditches, and cool forest.
There are people who willingly come
out and do this every Sunday, for the love
of running, adventure, and the banter that
comes with the chaotically disorganised Hash
House Harriers. The Saigon hashers were nice
enough to let me come and attempt to run
along with them on their 1,346th run.
When I met up with Sijtze Shithouse,
the grandmaster of Saigon Hash, three days
before my first hash, he was kind enough
to help me through the somewhat complex
web of understanding what goes down every
Sunday.
Firstly, at least in the Saigon chapter,

every hasher is given a name after their
10th run to show commitment to the crew,
or once they do something so fantastically
stupid, that they have deserved their name
prematurely. Youre not meant to like your
hash name, nor be proud of it, and you
certainly should never ask for a new one,
explains Shithouse. As the other hashers
will deliberately make it worse than it was
before.
For this particular hash the bus was
packed with 50 hashers, to the point were
the latecomers were forced to stand or sit on
Bui Vien-style red stools. The group riding
out to Dong Nai was comprised equally
of men and women, and a balance of local
runners and expats, with some hashers
claiming years of experience, and others
only weeks.
The hash offers a 50 percent discount
on the days fees for local runners, which
offers a great incentive for them to join the
community, get some exercise, and make
some friends, remarked walking hare InFlight Service.
Meatsickle, otherwise known as Alex
in the non-hash world, who set the trail for
the 1,346th run, commented on the benefits

of the group that everyone seems to enjoy:
It gets the blood moving, you get out of
the city, and you meet people who share the
energy.
Hashing cannot be discussed without
talking about the hash circle; a review of
the days trail (which is never spoken about
favourably), specific charges for runners,
and general social charges. For example
White Boy Sotong charged all British
women and Vietnamese men to drink a beer
on behalf of the British entrepreneur who
mistook a 46-year-old Vietnamese man for
a child. The charges consist of sitting on ice,
drinking beer, singing songs of a profane
nature, and general group bonding.
Ultimately, hashing is a non-competitive
everymans sport revolving around a
community of running, drinking, and
cheeky laughs with some equally sweaty
friends. No matter where a hasher goes,
they wont be far away from a like-minded
group.
For info or to join up, click on hanoih3.com
or saigonh3.com. There are also hashes in Nha
Trang (nhatranghash.com), Hoi An (hoianhash.
com) and Vung Tau (vungtauhash.com)
Hashing is part scavenger hunt, part run (or walk, if youd prefer that)
and part banter-filled drink fest. This killer combination makes for a
tight-knit community that you can trace across the world
Cover Story
Under One Year

Two to Four Years
Five to 10 Years
Over 10 Years
20 Years
The Five
Stages
of Expat
heres a famous poster entitled

Beer! with the tagline: Honour
your ancestors, they drank it too.
Showing the evolution of the
human from the stooped great ape, or to get
technical, australopithecus, through to fullyfledged, hairless homo sapiens with a large
beer belly, through each of the six images
you see humans in their various stages of
physical development.
While we at Word dont envisage the
evolution of the expat in the same way,
there are certainly different stages in the
transformation from rosy-eyed, slightly
green newcomer through to hardened lifer
who has been in-country for over a decade.
What changes is outlook, experience and
perhaps most importantly, integration into
life in Vietnam.
The following stories include a series of
profiles of people who have lived in this
country for anything from a few months to

over 20 years. Weve tried to cover the full
range, from digital nomads, and the son of
an ambassador, through to returning Viet
Kieu, business people and those who first
came to Vietnam before the collapse of this
countrys once most important ally, the
Soviet Union.
Weve also taken a look at why people
arrived in Vietnam in the first place and the
problems, in particular when youve got
baggage in tow, of trying to leave.
Whether you end up with a protruding
gut or not and we know many do is
certainly up for debate. But what is clear is
that if you want worldly experience, or want
to have the t-shirt, so to speak, staying in
your home country wont give it to you.
Now, as for moving overseas to countries
like Vietnam? Well, you might find youve
got something to write home about.
hen someone asks a

particular person I know
about how they came to
Vietnam, his response is
always the same; by bus.
This is often followed by confused looks.
Only then does he start to explain.
Seriously, I came here by bus, he
laughs. Bus from Cambodia. Even that
fact still surprises many. Why travel by
bus when you can fly?
Like every story you hear, his tale is
unique. When he arrived he was travelling
Southeast Asia with his partner and only
had a one-month visa for Vietnam. By
chance they both found work. After stints
living in Hanoi, over a decade later hes
still here. His ex-partner is married and
living in Australia.
The reasons people came to call
Vietnam home differ from person to
person. Many came with their job. Others
arrived to set up a business. A lot of
people come here for the lifestyle its
cheap, the foods good, and its an easy
place to hangout and make friends. Some,
like 18-year veteran Kate Anderson, came
here for love.
[Vietnam] was closer to Australia,
where my partner was, than the UK where
I had been, she explains. [We stayed
because] of the vibrancy that you feel
when you walk out into the street.
Emily Dallara, a freelance writer who
has been in the country just under a
year, moved to Vietnam because she was
working the 9-to-5 back in England, and

I knew I needed to escape the routine.
She adds: I chose Vietnam because it
offered a base in a country that gave me
options to travel while also working and
saving.
What everyone has in common is that
they see the opportunity. The opportunity
to live well and make money; the
opportunity for a different kind of life.
On the Run
When I decided to move to Vietnam back
in July 2015, I was running away from a
trapped life; I was trapped in a small town
in Oregon, trapped in a dead-end job and
a relationship with a boy who didnt treat
me right. It took one fateful heartbreak for
me to make the best snap decision of my
life, and two weeks later I was running
towards the infinite possibilities of life in
this country; the food, the culture, the new
friends, the jobs Ive fallen in love with.
Zukhra Tatyayeva, who is originally
from Pavlodar City, Kazakhstan, moved
to Vietnam from Malaysia for adventures,
a new experience, and to learn a different
culture.
I always wanted to live in summer,
coming from somewhere so cold [..] I love
how fast [Vietnam] is growing, and that
I am kind of part of it. I am participating
and contributing something.
A New Normal
Vietnam offers so much that is unique,
from the scenery, flora, and fauna that

leave us in awe every day, to the cuisine,
people and climate. There is so much
Vietnam offers to teach us expats; to face
our fears (anyone remember their first
time on the back of a xe om or stepping
out into oncoming traffic?), to become
confidently direct and be unabashedly
honest (what about that first time getting
ripped off at the market because you
were too afraid to haggle?), or simply just
to step out every day into a brand new
world of unknowns.
[Everyone] I know that has been here
seems to have something good to say
about Vietnam, remarks Stewart Gatsi, a
musician from Zimbabwe. From the food
to the people, culture and history of this
place, it was hard not to be drawn to it.
[Also], I love the fact that I can have banh
mi for breakfast every day, and Im still
not sick of it!
Whatever the case, we can all agree
that to live in Vietnam as an expat is to
discover a part of yourself that just isnt
accessible from the comfort zone. Every
single one of us has come here to find out
exactly who it is we can be when we push
ourselves, and I know I wouldnt take
back a single minute of time Ive spent
here.
Vietnam shifts our perspectives and
broadens our concept of normal; thats
why we came, its why some of us will
stay, and why we all tend to fall in love
with Vietnam.
Why We Came
There are many reasons why foreigners choose to live somewhere like Vietnam.
The problem is that once you get here, it can often be difficult to leave.
Words by Sin Kavanagh
WHO
Under One Year

Oliver de Paolis
WHERE
IN THE
United Kingdom
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WORLD
We thought, we love travel, we love

the expat life, why did we come back?
Lets go to Vietnam and eat
li wakes up in the
morning and makes
himself a coffee in his
makeshift home office,
a large table in the sunny little
Tay Ho apartment he shares with
his girlfriend, Jade. He opens his
computer, logs onto the WiFi,
and his workday begins. There
are emails to answer from clients
in London, Skype meetings to
schedule, and code to write for
the websites hes working on.
I work five or six days a week,
about 10 hours a day. But thats
because I want to, he says. If
I was at home, Id have to work
seven days a week. And thats a
huge reason for me being here.
The 23-year-old Englishman is
part of a new class of self-starters
whove embraced the freedom of
WiFi and the mobility it affords
them. Thats why digital nomads
dont live in Amsterdam or London
or Paris. Why would they? All we
want is an internet connection, and
its generally people who value
freedom over money anyway.
With a degree in anthropology,
Olis cultural fascination runs
deep. He once dreamed of
becoming a photographer for
National Geographic, and wrote his
dissertation on ethnic minorities in
Western China. The web design
thing honestly happened by fluke,
he admits. An uncles website here,
a friends e-business there, and
little by little, he learned the tools
of the trade.
Food, Glorious Food

He first visited Vietnam on his gap
year. The very first day, a friend
Id met on the train got her bag

stolen and dragged along the street
for two blocks. I ran after him,
but I was in a hippie phase at that
point and didnt have any shoes
on, so I just cut my feet to shreds.
He never caught the guy. I still
remember loving it, though. Then
we found a bia hoi, and it was all
good.
Later in the trip, he met Jade on
the beach in Nha Trang. By some
stroke of wild serendipity, the
pair were both enrolled to start
at the University of Birmingham
when they returned home. Their
travel romance led to five years
of adventures together, from nonprofit work in Ghana to English
teaching in South Korea.
I realised I wanted to be an
expat, but I didnt really want to be
a teacher, he says. Unsatisfied at
home, the couple began dreaming
of the country where they met. I
was living in London last year and
eating a lot of Vietnamese food. We
thought, we love travel, we love the
expat life, why did we come back?
Lets go to Vietnam and eat.
So three months ago, they
returned. Jet-lagged and tired, they
collapsed in the same Hoan Kiem
hostel where theyd stayed so many
years ago. We were so excited, but
so hungry and tired and confused,
we ended up buying mozzarella
sticks. They didnt have Hanoi beer,
so I ended up with a Heineken,
and mozzarella sticks. The least
Vietnamese introduction ever, he
laughs.
But food wasnt the only reason
to come back. We realised Vietnam
is pretty much the only place in
the world where you can turn up

and teach. Most places you need
contracts or visas, but here you can
come and throw yourself into a
freelance career.
A Different Ambiance
The low cost of living means
Oli doesnt have to deal with
the overhead that it takes to live
in London or New York. I can
afford to charge clients a fraction
of what they might be paying [at
home], he says. The opportunities
in Hanoi are ripe, and the
freelance community is small but
motivating.
You walk into Spacebar and its
like, you feel bad just breathing if
youre not working. Everyones
there with a laptop and a latte,
just fulfilling every stereotype,
he laughs. But theres something
about East Asia and the freelance
market. People share, in a way
that they wouldnt at home,
because its so competitive. But
here, its a bit more of a bubble. If
I cant do something, I can always
recommend someone who could.
In the future, Oli hopes to stoke
the collaborative fires of Hanois
freelance scene, pooling skill and
talent to land bigger contracts. Hes
just returned from his first visa
run, he starts Vietnamese lessons in
a few days, and his smile couldnt
be any wider.
I love it [here]. Im wearing
shorts and a t-shirt every day, I
can take my laptop to any coffee
shop, get a lovely coffee, a lovely
environment, and a load of work.
Thats 90% of the things I couldnt
do in London. Jesse Meadows
alking into Emma McGowan

and Benjamin Evans
apartment it is apparent that
their home is temporary;
the walls offer a large amount of white
space, which is perfect as a studio for
Bens filming, but there are few personal
effects. However, it still feels like home: the
apartment is decorated with fresh flowers,
a comfortable couch, a small, patterned
tapestry above the desk, and snapshots of
countries theyve once lived in.
If you ask Ben and Emma how many
countries they have lived in together over
the past three years, you will get two
different answers. Emma only counts the
seven where they have spent three months
or more in one place. Ben on the other hand
considers wherever him and his laptop are
to be home, taking his tally up to 11. Their
entire lives and belongings pack neatly into
two pieces of luggage and two carry-on bags
between them.
This is the life of the digital nomad;
people who actively choose never to claim
one geographic location as home for more
than a few months at a time. With both of
them working jobs remotely, bringing in
a stable income and armed with a will to
explore, they have made it their mission to
discover as much of the world as possible
before settling down.
he put all other projects aside to move to

Chile and focus on developing his start-up
business. From there he has continued on
through many countries, particularly in
South America.
Emma is a freelance writer and works
for a variety of websites, including Bustle.
Becoming a digital nomad wasnt really a
conscious choice. I was ready to leave the
US and was looking for a change. I booked
a one way flight to Argentina. That was
back in 2011, and she has since found herself
continuing to travel. For the past three years
she has had Ben as her partner exploring
with her.
One of the things they appreciate most
about living in Vietnam is the low living
costs, which allow them to save money
while living a good quality life. It also gives
them room to travel and explore the country
around them. Since they arrived in Saigon in
October, 2015 they have visited a few cities
and explored a good amount of Saigon itself.
Both appreciate the openness and
directness of Saigon, something that is
reflected in the architecture and the way
of life, with homes opened up to the
streets and neighbours, to the attitude of
the people. Ive certainly found myself
becoming more assertive and direct since
living [here], says Emma, in ways that Ive
never felt before.
Episode Vietnam
Curiosity
With the couple now in Saigon for seven

months, Ben is currently working as a
business and leadership coach. He found his
road to the digital nomad lifestyle through
a programme called Start Up Chile while he
was in London, England, which demanded
The two decided on Southeast Asia for the

simple reason that they had become too
accustomed to life in South America. Emma
and her father visited Vietnam when she
was 13, back in 2001, and she fell in love
with the energy of the country. I knew it
was somewhere Id come back one day, she

says. As for Ben, he was curious to come to
the region as it was somewhere that hed
never been before.
In June they are leaving for new
adventures in the United States, to catch up
with Emmas parents, before heading off to
Chiang Mai, Thailand, an infamous hub for
digital nomads and remote workers.
Our careers happen wherever we are
with our laptops, and it is such a luxury to
live this way, explains Ben. Vietnam has
helped us save money and grow culturally,
though we dont get the same interaction as
working in office jobs.
He adds: Our colleagues are within our
laptops, our apartment is our office and our
studio; we have to actively get ourselves
out there and meet people to find our
Vietnamese experience for ourselves.
One of the main difficulties the couple
have faced in Saigon, as well as other
countries they have visited the past
few years, is being part of an interracial
relationship.
As a black man in Saigon I know I stand
out, says Ben. I can see people staring, and
its hard to bridge that gap."
Adds Emma: Integration isnt really
possible in six months, you dont even break
the surface of a culture, but you get a sense
for a place, you can still find a community.
Continues Ben: Im curious to return
to Vietnam in five or ten years to see what
Ho Chi Minh City will look like then and
how it will have changed. There is so
much construction right now, its quite
literally expanding before our eyes. Itll be
interesting to see how much we recognise
when we visit next. Sin Kavanagh
Our careers happen wherever we are with

our laptops, and it is such a luxury to live
this way Vietnam has helped us save money
and grow culturally, though we dont get the
same interaction as working in office jobs
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WHO
WHERE
IN THE
WORLD
Under One Year

Benjamin Evans and Emma McGowan
USA, Argentina, Chile, Colombia, UK, Nicaragua,
Panama, Japan, Malaysia
WHO
Two to Four Years

Lelio Adriano
WHERE
IN THE
Mozambique
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WORLD
There were times I thought there were things I could

really be experiencing more as a teenager, but because
of this [my actions] would have affected my dads
reputation. There is kind of like a nagging voice in the
back of your head that says act a certain way
lot of people move to

Vietnam to travel and get
a sense of adventure. But
for some it wasnt a choice.
Lelio Adriano is one of them; his
father moved to Hanoi to establish
the Mozambique Embassy to
Vietnam.
As a diplomats child, the
biggest reason for him moving
here was school. The Mozambique
government will only pay for his
education if he is living in the
same country as his father. His
other big reason was his younger
brother. His family divorced
when he was a child. Lelio wants
to be a positive influence on his
15-year-old brother, and with his
mother being back in Mozambique,
Lelio has taken on some of the
responsibilities of a caretaker.
Going to School in Hanoi

Although you cant trip without
falling on a foreign English teacher
in Vietnam, being a student here
is something very few people
experience. Lelio graduated from
St. Paul American School where
most of his classmates were
Vietnamese and Korean.
There was a really strong focus
on academic excellence, so much
so that I would say that in terms of
interpersonal development, I was
actually stunted, he says. When
I was studying in high school here
there wasnt a lot of interaction
between the students, and
everything was based on books,
books, books.
We all did well, but when I
started university, I realised I had

lost my ability to interact with other
people, something that I had a lot
of back home in Mozambique.
He also describes how
interactions felt slightly sterile.
In southern Africa we are a
lot more open to each other. We
are less reluctant to have physical
contact, simple things like hugging
or shaking hands, but here
something simple as a handshake is
quite intimate.
Getting Cross Cultural

According to Lelio, in some aspects
Vietnam resembles Mozambique.
But things are developing much
faster here, something he credits
to the geographical location and
history of the country. When he
first moved to Hanoi he had gotten
a lot of his preconceived notions
about Vietnam through the media,
which tends to focus on China in its
portrayal of Asia. As time passed
he became aware of Vietnam not
just as an Asian country, but a
nation with its own culture and
history.
Apart from some uncomfortable
remarks about his dark skin
colour, local people mostly
tend to ask about the food and
weather. Mozambique used to be
a Portuguese colony until 1975, so
Lelios first language is Portuguese.
During his time here he has studied
Vietnamese and thinks he is
somewhere between intermediate
and advanced, although he does
not get a chance to practice it very
often.
Even when I try to speak

Vietnamese, people will speak
to me in English, so I havent
exercised it as much.
He can also relate to the
Vietnamese diet in Africa
they eat nshima, which is their
equivalent of rice. It is made up of
ground corn which then gets boiled
in water or milk. It is a staple in
their diet, and usually comes paired
with meat and a few vegetables.
Leilo hasnt integrated much
Vietnamese culture into his life. His
family keeps him connected to his
Mozambique roots mostly through
food and music.
Son of a Diplomat
Being a diplomats son comes
with its own set of problems and
privileges. One issue is he has
had to be much more aware of his
image.
There were times I thought
there were things I could really be
experiencing more as a teenager,
he says, but because of this [my
actions] would have affected my
dads reputation. There is kind of
like a nagging voice in the back of
your head that says act a certain
way.
Lelio is currently in his last year
of college and doing an internship
at VNUs economic facility. Hes
not sure about staying in his
current field, and would like to
find a path which would allow
him to better express his creativity.
He plans to stay in Hanoi if he can
find a decent job, even if his father
leaves. Eduardo Culbeaux
ts 2pm, and Mon is alone in his

restaurant. Hes had two cooks call off
work for the night, and hes feverishly
texting every chef in town to find
cover. He takes a drag off his cigarette
and gets a response. A restaurant owner
knows someone, but he doesnt speak
English. Mon smiles. Its okay, I can
teach him, he says as he texts back.
I feel lucky, he says. After seven years
in Hanoi, hes amassed a community of
friends across the city who he can call on
when he needs help. I had to make a new
family here. And after all these years, Ive
made so many friends whove come and
gone, and we all support each other.
Support is necessary when youre as
motivated as Mon. Hes currently running
the kitchen at Tuk Tuk Thai, a brand new
Hoan Kiem eatery, where hes filled the
menu with dishes he grew up eating as
a first generation Thai-American. Hes
no stranger to the restaurant business;
his parents ran a successful restaurant in
Philadelphia. I worked in the kitchen, I
worked front of house. Its where I learned
how to cook.
The young entrepreneurs behind Tuk Tuk
found Mon on Facebook, via his posts on
the popular Foodies in Hanoi group that
he co-founded two years ago. But this isnt
his first culinary endeavor here. In 2010,
he started a street food spot called Hanoi
Panic, after his LGBT zine of the same
name.
It was a success for a year-and-a-half,
consider his Southeast Asian hometown.
until trouble arose with his Vietnamese

business partner, and he had to step away.
Luckily, the much-loved but now-defunct
venue Madake was just getting off the
ground then, and they hired Mon to work
as their opening chef.
Space to Express
Love Struck
Cooking wasnt his first plan in Vietnam; it
was actually love that brought him here. I
was engaged to be married to a person that
owns a restaurant here in Hanoi. They were
going to travel through Asia when they left
Philadelphia, and I told them if they found
a place they liked and wanted to stay, I
would move there with them.
It may not have worked out between
them in the end, but it led Mon to a
different kind of committed relationship.
Im still in love with Vietnam, he admits.
I originally came here to teach English,
he says, but he struggled to land jobs
because he didnt look American enough.
They prefer Caucasian faces, what they see
on TV or in movies, rather than the truth,
which is that America is a melting pot.
The classes he did find were spread
far and wide across the city, and the long
commute through rush-hour traffic every
day burnt him out. Instead, he took a job
teaching in the small northeastern city of
Lang Son.
I hated it. There was one bar. No one
spoke any English. I lasted two months,
I couldnt take it, he remembers. So he
returned to Hanoi, a place hes come to
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WHO
WHERE
IN THE
WORLD
Its such a young country. Most of the

citizens were born after the war, so theyre
still young and have a lot to learn, he
says. He sees a lot of potential here for the
kind of DIY projects hed worked on in
Philadelphia, and their ability to empower
marginalised groups.
I grew up listening to riot grrrl music,
I know Kathleen Hanna and Bikini Kill.
Her words and music always inspired me
to support womens rights all over the
world. I want to train women how to be
stronger, how to be more assertive, and
break the stereotype that Asian women are
submissive. Vietnamese women are not
submissive.
Mon works to create spaces where
misunderstood youth in Hanoi can
express themselves, regularly DJing LGBT
parties and printing personal essays and
photographs by the community in his
bilingual, DIY zine, distributed for free in
queer-friendly venues across the city.
Its been a month since hes had a day
off from Tuk Tuk, but still, he thinks up
new recipes constantly. Nothing can stop
me when I put my mind to something, he
says.
Through all his struggles in Hanoi, hes
remained positive, and determined to stay
in the city he loves. Ill give myself five
more years, he estimates. But we all know
how hard it is to leave. Jesse Meadows
Five to 10 Years
Mon Ovathasarn
USA / Thailand
I feel lucky I had to make a new family here.

And after all these years, Ive made so
many friends whove come and gone,
and we all support each other
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WHO
WHERE
IN THE
WORLD
Two to Four Years

Sara Malje-Besset
Sweden, France
I love you, and I always have. I dont blame you for the
decisions you made, I just want to know you.
he name sounds
Scandinavian, but the girl
who grew up to be Sara
Malje-Besset was born in
Vietnams Soc Trang province. In
1975 she was airlifted out of Saigon
at the age of eight months after
being adopted by a Swedish family.
She has spent the past two years
of her life living back in Vietnam,
one year in Nha Trang and one in
Saigon, and has been rediscovering
her mother country. During this
time she has also been hoping to
uncover more about her biological
family and solve the mysteries of
the first few months of her life.
It can get hard because
people will try and talk to me in
Vietnamese, says Sara, who has
been studying Vietnamese and
practicing daily for two years now.
Others will know before I open
my mouth that I am different, from
the way I move, the way I dress; its
hard to connect when I cant fully
communicate yet."
She adds: One of the most
important things to do when
you arrive in a new country is to
learn the language... to be able
to understand more about the
culture and the people... to be
able to express yourself and make
yourself understood. Yet two
years later, she is still challenged by
the pronunciation and tonality of
Vietnamese.
Though she has kept her
Vietnamese-government issued
papers that travelled with her
during her adoption, little is
really known about Saras past,
including her birth parents, date
of birth, or where she was born.
Thanks to changed legislation, Sara
managed to reclaim her Vietnamese
nationality in 2013.
Embracing Difference
Helena, Per and their son Marten
Malje brought Sara into their lives
and family in 1975, and Saras own

experience growing up as part of
the Malje family was one filled with
love and happiness. Her mother
Helena had wanted another child,
and understood that there were
many displaced children during the
time of the American War, so her
and Per decided to adopt Sara.
I was never exposed to horrific
racism, Sara remarked. As a
teenager, I just wanted to fit in but
I stood out with my black hair and
brown skin. It took me a while to
grow into myself.
As an adult Sara quickly learned
to embrace her differences from
her Swedish peers, and over time
became more comfortable with
herself and curious about Vietnam.
Recently she has made
connections with other adoptees via
the Internet, and their first meet-up
was in Paris in 2012 where they met
for dinner. During the evening she
ate Vietnamese food for the first
time. Now, she doesnt know how
she would live without it.
In the past few years Sara has
developed a deep love for street
food, specifically bun thit nuong,
and ca phe sua da. I love so much
about Vietnam; it continues to
fascinate and surprise me every
day, from the energy of the city
and the genuine smiles of the
Vietnamese people; I am still
amazed by the everyday scenes I
see, she says.
She has even braved the task
of driving a motorbike in Saigon,
though she still jokes that she trusts
Vietnamese drivers more than
herself on the road, especially with
two children on the bike at the
same time.
Staying in Touch
After a brief holiday in Vietnam in
1996, Sara moved here in 2014 at
the age of 40 with her family in tow
after her husband got a job teaching
in a school in Nha Trang. The

move was emotional for the entire
family, with a surge of conflicting
emotions as Sara found herself and
her family far away from what had
once been home, ready to create a
life in the country from which she
came.
So Sara understands the
importance of rediscovering and
accepting different homes and
identities. She is currently in
Vietnam, while the eldest of her
three children, Jade, 16, is living
with her grandparents in Sweden,
getting to know the country her
mother grew up in, while also
studying for the International
Baccalaureate. Though they miss
each other, Jade will be reuniting
with her family and Vietnam this
summer, much to the delight of
Sara.
I dont need much in life to be
happy, just family, love, and... a
little money, she laughs.
Right now Sara is spending her
time learning Vietnamese, writing
her autobiography in Swedish,
and looking after her children and
household. She is also looking
further into her family history and
trying to find her biological family.
If there is anything she could do
to finally meet her biological family,
she would be prepared to do it now,
though she wasnt ready when she
was younger. The process of finding
them is difficult, especially with
the lack of paperwork from the war
years, though she has found distant
blood relatives (4th, 5th removed
cousins) via DNA testing.
I asked her what she would say
to her biological parents if she had
the chance.
She smiles with a deep-set
sadness in her eyes, and answers: I
love you, and I always have. I dont
blame you for the decisions you
made, I just want to know you.
Sin Kavanagh
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WHO
WHERE
IN THE
WORLD
Five to 10 Years
Paul Massad
Chile
or those who have been to

Saigon Outcast recently and
wonder who stands behind
the climbing wall, the answer
is Paul Massad, a 26-year-old
entrepreneur and the founder of
Push Climbing. Born in Chiles
Patagonia region, he followed
his father to Vietnam when he
was 18 when his father moved to
Nha Trang to work in the fishing
industry.
When his mother came to Saigon
a year-and-a-half later, he moved
down to stay with her. He then
took his CELTA in Cambodia and
after travelling round the country,
he came back to Saigon and started
a teaching job that helped him save
money to pay for his Marketing
and Communications degree at
RMIT.
With a passion for climbing and
outdoor activities, Paul launched
Push Climbing in 2010 in District
7. Ever since he has been watching
his business grow, and the city
change.
From Adaptation
According to Paul, most of what
foreigners have heard about
Vietnam is related to events of 30
years ago. In order to know more
about the country and the people,
all foreigners need to do, Massad
believes, is to sit down and talk
about the little things that make life
tick with the locals.
Those little things are now
everything for me, he says.
At the beginning you want to
talk, because everything seems
amazing, and then you start getting
frustrated because you want to
know the details. For example,
you dont just want a coffee, but a
coffee without sugar and less ice.
And then you start chatting
and getting frustrated because you
cannot get your ideas across, and
not only because of the language
barrier. You dont understand but
you have to speak, and you decide
to learn Vietnamese. This stage is
to help you get through some basic

problems.
Then you will get to the stage
that you want to do something in
this country. Theres a need, and
that will force you to learn more,
not only the language. You dont
want to depend on someone else
like a translator or secretary. You
want to do it by yourself, so you
can survive and get everything
done without anyones help.
Paul admits his Vietnamese
is just sufficient to get contracts
done, talk to his staff, and use in
meetings. But I still often use the
typical excuse that I dont speak
Vietnamese, he says.
Understanding
To get a feeling for a different
culture requires a lot of effort
as well as time, but in seven
years, Paul feels he has come to
understand some of the basics of
Vietnamese society.
Western culture is based on the
idea that you can be all you want to
be, regardless of what other people
say, he explains. Vietnamese
culture often works differently
you are what other people allow
you to be, what your parents tell
you to be, and what your family
helps you to be.
For Paul this kind of
straightjacket has its good and its
bad points.
You dont have to think too
much about where to live or what
to do as your family will give
those ideas to you, he says, but
also you have to follow what they
want.
He adds: Its a big divide
between old and new generations.
My parents would do the same to
me in Chile. So I understand it, as
I am kind of growing out from the
same idea.
What He Has Seen

According to Paul, when he first
moved here, there were a few
stores like Lotteria, Big C and
Metro, while now big malls and

convenience stores like Circle K
are everywhere. Small shops have
been replaced with bigger shops,
and low-rise buildings have been
substituted for high-rises.
We dont go to the tiem tap
hoa [mom and pop convenience
store] anymore, he adds. What
I see here are all the things that
have been done before in other
countries.
Its not only the look but also
the lifestyle that has changed.
Compared to District 7, where he
set up his first climbing wall, his
latest location in District 2 offers
a weird experience as it doesnt
really look like its in Vietnam. Yet
it still has its own Vietnamese traits
with typical tube-shaped houses
and street food stalls.
There are many things that
foreigners dont want to do here
including driving, cleaning,
gardening or fixing the electricity.
They can get those services from
the neighbour, he says. But I
dont like it. Everything Ive learnt
is like a multi-functional tool for
me. Its a bit like a hammer; you
can use it for either hammering in
a nail or taking it out. So you apply
that tool to every single concept.
What I Can Get Today

Matters
The idea of letting things go would
not be an easy option for Paul.
After seven years living, working
in Saigon and earning a reputation
for his own business, Paul hasnt
thought of leaving Vietnam.
If I let go of what I have right
now, it would mean I have to start
again, he says. It has taken a lot
of money and resources to build
what I have now.
He admits he is thinking about
buying an apartment in Saigon,
which suggests an ambition to stay
a long time in Vietnam.
I will stay here as long as the
opportunity lasts, is all he will say
on that subject. Vu Ha Kim Vy
Western culture is based on the idea that

you can be all you want to be, regardless of what other
people say Vietnamese culture works differently you
are what other people allow you to be, what your parents
tell you to be, and what your family helps you to be
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WHO
Over 10 Years
Ali Waugh
WHERE
IN THE
Australia
WORLD
I was on a contract for one-and-a-half years, and it just kept

on rolling over and rolling over, and suddenly it was 10 years.
I didnt plan that
li Waughs decade in Vietnam

began with a holiday in 2005.
She was so struck, that two
years later, she sent her rsum
all across the country, and landed a
job as a guidance counsellor at Hanoi
International School.
I was on a contract for one-and-a-half
years, and it just kept on rolling over and
rolling over, and suddenly it was 10 years. I
didnt plan that, she laughs.
So whats kept her here this long? Besides
a thriving clothing business with a team of
employees now 20-strong, the 48-year-old
Australia native has put down roots in the
local community.
When I first got here, a Vietnamese
lady gave me a puppy, and Ive still got
him. Hes nine-and-a-half. It would cost
US$10,000 dollars to take the dog back to
Australia so I kind of got stuck in a spider
web.
But that way, I feel a responsibility to
stay. Also, I really like it.
In the beginning, she was the only
foreigner on her block in Ba Dinh, so she
began learning Vietnamese out of necessity.
She took two lessons a week for two years,
and studied every chance she got.
I used to walk the dog every night after
my Vietnamese lesson and talk to the old
ladies that sell tea and fruit on the side of
the road, she says. Once you make that
investment of your time, then you can start
talking to people that you never would

have spoken to, and it becomes much more
interesting to live here.
Fashioning a Future
Around seven years ago, her career took
another unexpected turn into the fashion
business. When she first arrived, the only
boutique option for Western women was
Things of Substance in the Old Quarter.
I would go to work, and some days
three of us would have the same dress on,
it was ridiculous, she remembers. I found
out that my housekeeper used to be a tailor,
so I asked her to help me start up a clothing
business.
Emporium began as a shop on the third
floor of her house, and now fills two floors
of space on Xuan Dieu. Though she worked
the first two years just to break even, she
admits it would have cost 10 times the
amount and been much harder to set up a
business in Australia.
[Vietnam] is a real can-do place, she
says. Her first space on To Ngoc Van was
originally an office. I said to the landlord,
can we turn this into a shop? They can do
anything.
Its this resourcefulness thats changed
the country the most during Alis 10
years here, ushering in an age of English
speakers, Maseratis, and a growing wage
gap. She watches construction workers
from far-flung rural provinces putting up
25 new storeys across the street from her

shop every day.
I know theyre earning more money
here than they would at home, but theres a
big gap between them and the guy driving
the Bentley, she says.
The Long Goodbye

The countrys rapid globalisation has
opened her eyes to new things, too. With
an internationally diverse circle of friends
and a strategic location just a short flight
away from so many of the worlds most
exotic destinations, Vietnam has made her
culturally aware in a way that Australias
geographic isolation never allowed.
Ive had quite a few friends go back and
find it hard to fit in, she admits. I think
you go through a lot of grief as an expat.
Summer is the saddest time of year in
Hanoi; its the season of goodbyes.
Your friends often go in June, and you
go off on a holiday. When you come back in
August, theres this Grand Canyon in your
life, its awful. Then by September, October,
November, you get some new friends, but
theyre never the same.
Ten years of Hanois revolving door
hasnt made it any easier to say goodbye,
but still, Alis got no plans to leave.
I might have 20 minutes in traffic where
I think, I dont want to be here, but nearly
every minute of every day, Im happy.
Jesse Meadows
Over 10 Years
Kylie Michelle
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WHO
WHERE
IN THE
Australia
WORLD
I love watching Vietnam grow. Thats been one of the most exciting
things about being here over the present period over the last 16
or 17 years, the amount of change is enormous.
talented chef, Kylie began her

great Vietnam adventure in 1999.
In the years since then, she has
joint-owned wine supplier and
retailer Vino, and more recently, taken
control of the kitchen at Saigons District 2
restaurant, Lubu.
Arriving first in Vietnam with her
partner Jim as a stopover on a trip to
Ireland, the European experience was
short-lived. The weather was bad, it was
raining and cold, and things didnt work
out. So making a beeline back to Australia
they stopped off in Vietnam.
Three days before we left, a cyclo
driver said that there was an Englishlanguage school that urgently needed
teachers, recalls Kylie. So we got in the
cyclo, he took us to the school and we
stayed here for three-and-a-half years.
In 2003 and with Kylie seven months
pregnant, the couple upped sticks and
moved to Spain. Jim, a trained sommelier,
had work out there. Their son, Oscar was
born, and in early 2004, once again via
Vietnam, they returned to Australia.
We went back to Australia to work
out what we were supposed to be doing
with our lives, says Kylie. We started
from there the process of setting up Vino
with our business partner here. Then we
came back.
Freedom and Opportunity

For Kylie, there were two things that led to
her and Jim settling in Vietnam. The first
was the freedom, the fact that we werent
restricted by the same rules that there were
in Australia, that we could do whatever
we wanted. This translates to anything
from zipping around on a motorbike to
being able to reinvent yourself and meet
the kind of people that you would never
have contact with back home.
The other thing they saw was the
opportunity. When Kylie and Jim opened

up Vino in 2005, they were importing
one line of wines from Australia, while
for their off-trade, all the products were
sourced from other wine importers.
If you opened up a wine shop in
Sydney and had one line of products,
no-one would have gone there, she
explains. Because the expat community
was so small, it was easy for us to get
a lot of contacts and quite easy to get
hotel managers or general managers to
take on one random new wine from one
random new wine company. If you were in
Australia theres no way they would have
done that.
With her restaurant, Lubu, one of the
other pleasures she has had was being
able to build the place, something she feels
would have been impossible in Australia.
We built and designed Lubu by
ourselves, she says. That process would
have taken years in Australia, even just
getting the building approval.
She adds: We live around the corner
from Lubu, the building process was
quite easy and our son [Oscar] was with
us the whole time. In Australia we would
have sent him off to his grandmother. We
wouldnt have been able to walk around
the corner and build the restaurant from
scratch.
Other things like being able to source
the tiles, the paint, every single solitary
thing would have taken them months
to do back home and they would have
probably had to outsource everything to
architects or interior designers. Here they
did it all themselves.
Assimilation
Yet, as Kylie has discovered, not
everything in Vietnam is rosy and there
are times when the country can treat you
badly. As she says: Being an expat hurts
you sometimes. Youre a long way from

home, a long way from your family and
close friends. And when you do need that
support, it can often be lacking.
One issue that is part and parcel of
this is assimilation. You can never fully
assimilate, she explains. I mean I try, I
try very hard, but the end of the day you
never really do. Youre always a foreigner,
youre always on the outside.
And this is despite Kylie speaking good
Vietnamese, and spending most of her
working day be it communicating with
her staff, writing emails or making phone
calls talking only Vietnamese. Although
during her teaching days she only bought
food at the market, and spent a lot of
time going out with her students and
Vietnamese friends, she is still an outsider.
Yet spending so much time in Vietnam
has rubbed off on her.
Im definitely more aggressive, she
says. Survival in [Ho Chi Minh City]
requires a certain amount of aggression
and I definitely have that quality now,
more so than I did before.
The way she eats has changed. She can
no longer handle Western portion sizes
or eat a massive steak like she would
have done in the past. Instead she loves
waking up on a boiling hot day to a
boiling hot bowl of noodles.
And despite the distance from Australia
and her family, something which can
occasionally hurt, she still remains positive
about this country.
I love watching Vietnam grow, she
says. Thats been one of the most exciting
things about being here over the present
period over the last 16 or 17 years, the
amount of change is enormous. Apart from
all the apartment buildings and all the malls,
because I like the traditional way more, I
think its great. I think Vietnam is moving in
a fantastic direction. Nick Ross
20 Years
Natalia Kraevskaia
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WHO
WHERE
IN THE
Russia
WORLD
He had an idea to establish an independent art space in Vietnam,

where he could show the art of young artists,
or do experimental things.
Because this is a private house, nobody could control it.
anoi was a different world when

Natalia first arrived in 1983. There
were no motorbikes, no cars, no
taxis and no tourists. After 7pm,
the streets were quiet. But it was good
for walking. No pollution, she recalls,
pouring tea at a table in Salon Natasha,
the art gallery she established with her late
husband, Vu Dan Tan, in his family home
on Hang Bong.
Some younger people dont even know
that during this period, it was forbidden
for Vietnamese people to talk with
foreigners, or to have any connections. If
somebody came to talk to you on the street,
they could be arrested.
Natalia had been sent to Hanoi by
Russias Ministry of Education to help
establish the Pushkin Institute. After two
months, a colleague asked if she could
deliver a package of gifts canned milk,
canned meats, sugar to a Vietnamese
friend. Though shed signed an agreement
that she would not have any contact with
the Vietnamese outside of work, she went
anyway.
So I came with this bag of special
presents, here, to this room, and I met my
husband. At that time, he was 39. I was 33.
Vu Dan Tan was an artist. He showed
Natalia his studio and the masks he was
making, and she was captivated.
Philosophical
He was dressed all in black, and looked
very romantic. I liked his masks. Now I feel
very stupid, but at the time I said: Oh, this
mask looks like a tiger is it a cat? and
he said, it depends on how you look at it,
it can be a cat, or it can be a mouse. To me,
this sounded so philosophical. Love at first
sight.
It was Dec. 25, and remnants of a
Christmas party were strewn about his
house empty bottles and cigarettes.

Dan Tan paid no mind to the rules
against fraternising with foreigners, often
entertaining them in his house. He invited
Natalia to visit whenever she wanted, and
on New Years Eve, she returned.
It was the beginning of our love story.
They dated in secret, never announcing
their affair, but often walking together in
the street. Police came to visit Dan Tans
mother several times to warn her. Natalia
counts herself lucky other Russians were
known to have been deported for having a
relationship like hers.
If meeting was forbidden, marriage was
also forbidden, she remembers. But this
didnt stop her.
I was supervising the universities
where they taught Russian, and at one of
these universities, the wife of the Russian
ambassador was working. I told her about
this love story, and that we wanted to get
married, but it was impossible, and I asked
for her help. She said, Okay, write a letter,
but not a formal letter, a romantic letter.
The ambassador has not yet forgotten what
love is. I will give your letter to him in the
right moment.
Six months later, they were married.
Four days after the wedding, Natalia had
to leave for Russia, and it took Dan Tan
a year before he was allowed to meet her
there. They did not return to Hanoi until
1990.
He had an idea to establish an
independent art space in Vietnam, where
he could show the art of young artists, or
do experimental things. Because this is a
private house, nobody could control it.
Reinvention
Until Nha San opened in 1998, Salon
Natasha was the only private art space in
Hanoi, and one of very few places young
people could meet and talk. There were

only a handful of bars and clubs then,
nothing like the backpacker mecca that has
since sprung up around Natalias house in
Hoan Kiem.
She doesnt mind the backpackers; some
of them are quite interesting, she says.
But she is wary of the expats who come to
Vietnam to reinvent themselves. Many
people stay here, and they pretend to be
what they are not.
She credits Vietnamese culture with
making her a bit wiser in her social
relationships, and more open-minded.
In Russia, when someone wrongs you,
retaliation is immediate. But in Vietnam,
its not. You are smiling, you are tolerant,
and you wait maybe four years for
revenge, she laughs.
She feels her national identity is split,
and shes now developed both Russian
and Vietnamese sides to her character. But
even after 27 years, she still has trouble
pronouncing the language. I have no
musical ear, she explains. The xe oms may
not understand her, but her mother-in-law
does. We can talk for hours!
As for Vietnam, the changes shes seen
have been drastic. People can travel
everywhere. They have access to books
and the internet, they can work for the
government, or they can start private
businesses. Before, private business didnt
exist, and you were under total control. But
now, you can choose.
Ideally, shed like to split her time
equally between Russia and Vietnam, but it
never seems to happen that way. Its been
hard living here since her husband passed
away in 2009, surrounded by his artwork,
in the home they shared, in the room where
they met. His memory is all around her,
but still, she wont leave now. For me,
Vietnam is home. Jesse Meadows
EXPAT TIME
ABROAD
WHO
WHERE
IN THE
WORLD
20 Years
Thanh Charles
Australia
My career here has been good. I started as a sales supervisor

and moved up the ranks in the corporate world, which meant I
learnt a lot quickly. As Vietnam has grown, Ive been able to grow
with it, which has been an incredible experience
or most expats, the time spent

abroad is measured in months,
perhaps a few years a fullimmersion cultural vacation, a
source of experiences to enrich their lives
and stories to wow future neighbours.
They leave their home countries physically,
but never fully embrace the culture of their
new home.
Thanh Charles has spent the majority
of his life in Vietnam an impressive
feat for an expatriate. His roots here run
deep, grown deeper through the desire to
understand his culture.
Born in Vietnam, Charles was adopted
at the age of four months by an Australian
couple. In late 1992, at age 19, he returned
as a visitor, eager to see the land of his birth
for himself.
How To Succeed In Business,

Vietnam Edition
I first came to Vietnam end of 1992 as a
backpacker. Then I returned in April 1993
for work with Vinagen brewery in Nha
Trang, which shortly after was acquired by
San Miguel Brewery.
When San Miguel bought Vinagen,
Charles was promoted. Soon he was at
Phillip Morris as their national sales and
promotions manager, an impressive title
at such a young age. His career followed
this pattern for years to come; national
sales manager for Fosters Vietnam
Limited; then marketing director; then
member of the board for both Vietnam
and Cambodia operations.
After removing himself from the highoctane corporate life, Charles opened
Meatworks, a bustling, butcher shop in
District 2, now a year old. Opening a small
shop is one of the popular routes for lifer
expats. Theres a sense of solidity to owning
something, especially to those whove spent
their careers in cubicles and classrooms that
belong to someone else.
Its not that hard to get licensed here,
he says, his voice pure, broad Aussie,
laid-back and sun-baked. After a life spent

in the wholesale end of the food and
beverage industry, working for giant global
corporations, opening a boutique butchery
made sense. The market was ready for it,
Charles had the connections, and the perfect
site became available a year ago. They
already have plans to open another shop
within a years time.
Keep an Open Mind and Look at

Opportunities
He takes me on a tour of the shop, proud of
his staff, his goods, and his wife, who is too
busy running the shop to chat much. The
beef and lamb look fantastic, thick cuts done
in the Western style, and quite reasonably
priced. The tour is interrupted several times
by customers, and hes invariably genial
and helpful, a man living the life he wants
on his own terms.
When I ask about his personal success
and the obvious success of Meatworks (I see
a dozen customers or more in the hour we
spend talking), his answer is simple.
For new arrivals or expats Id suggest
they keep an open mind and look at
opportunities or gaps in the market that can
be filled.
Our conversation ranges from the past
to the future, from the personal to business,
but constantly underneath is the sense of a
happy man.
When I came, Ho Chi Minh City
was full of bikes, he says, as a stream of
gleaming motorbikes zoom by, heavily
sprinkled with Mercedes, Toyotas, and
Honda sedans. Much has changed over
the last 20-plus years
One of the biggest changes hes seen
is Vietnams hunger for, and access to,
foreign brands.
Customers now have more brands
and products to choose from. People are
expecting more and have the ability to
experiment more. We discuss the rise
in supermarkets and hypermarkets, and
how much foreign corporations and
countries are waking up to Vietnams

potential. Vietnam [is] a changing
market with growth potential. The whole
market is changing.
When I ask him to tell me a sign of this
change, it comes to mind instantly.
Modern trade, people going to
supermarkets, he says with a shrug. This
is, he assures me, very different from the
days when you invariably bought from a
market, or a corner store in the downstairs
of someones home, and foreign goods were
hard to come by.
Even Lifers Dream of Home

As to what has kept him here this long,
through so many changes? One is major;
Charles is married to a Vietnamese woman
and has a family. But the country itself has
gotten to him.
I enjoy the pace of change and
excitement in the country.
Being able to take part in the local life
hasnt hurt. As I speak Vietnamese fairly
well and my wife is Vietnamese, I enjoy and
take part in the local culture, he says. Yet
Charless acquisition of the language only
came after he moved to Vietnam: growing
up in Australia he never had the chance to
learn Vietnamese.
Despite all this, he may not want to
stay forever.
I hope to go back to Australia and
retire someday, or perhaps return in four
to five years time when my youngest son
is older.
But from the moment he moved here,
and until this hypothetical move back to
Oz, he doesnt want to live anywhere else.
Vietnam has been too good for him to leave.
No, Ive never tried to leave, as I enjoy
the place too much. My career here has been
good. Initially, I started as a sales supervisor
and moved up the ranks in the corporate
world, which has meant I learnt a lot
quickly. As Vietnam has grown, Ive been
able to grow with it, which has been an
incredible experience. Owen Salisbury
Those Who Got Away

If youre a long-termer in Vietnam, getting out is often difficult. But as those

whove managed to make the break can testify, its not settling back
in which is tough, its the emotional side of it all. Words by Nick Ross
tried to leave Vietnam twice. Both times

I came back.
The first was after what I call the oneyear itch, the period where the country
no longer has that tick, that vibrancy, that
magic that made you fall in love with it.
That was in autumn 2001. By January the
next year, I was back, but in a different city;
Hanoi.
The second time was for a job in
Singapore on a magazine, Education. I
came, I saw, but despite all my well-laid
plans, I didnt quite conquer. Four months
after leaving Vietnam with delusions of
Singaporean grandeur I was back. This time
I was based in Vung Tau.
Even though these days I spend a lot of
time in the UK, I still havent left. As I like
to put it, Im on parole. Other long-termers
I know have had different experiences.
They have finished their sentences and
moved on. For some its been a successful
transition, for others its been more
complex.
Coming Home
When I was in my early 20s and travelling
Europe, I met a man on a train from
Folkestone on the English Channel to
London. He was with his 10-year-old son
who lived with the boys mother in Paris.
I left the UK in my early 20s, the man
told me. I travelled the world and ended
up living in South Africa for 10 years.
So why did you come back? I asked.
I cant remember his exact answer but the
comment that follows sticks in my mind.
Once you leave, coming back is very
difficult, he told me. You can never
quite settle back in to life in the UK. Youre
always a foreigner.
This has not been the case for former
Vietnam resident, Pete Murray. An 18-yearlong veteran of the expat lifestyle, five
years ago he returned to the UK with his
Vietnamese wife and three kids in tow. The
decision to leave Vietnam, says Pete, was
easy. He was ready to leave.
I decided when my eldest was born that
I had 10 years to get out, he says. If they
were to go to school in the UK, then theyd
have to start before going to comprehensive
[high school].
So, it was always at the back of my
mind, but then my mum died. So we all
came back after that.

At first he took his family to Northeast
England, just south of Newcastle, but after
a year he settled in the Wirral, next to
Liverpool. He had returned to the UK with
a plan to buy a business. After flirting with
the idea of getting into the pub industry, he
went into post offices.
We were trying to buy a post office in
Chester, but the one school we wanted
to put the boys into, there was no chance
of it, he recalls. The agent saw the deal
wasnt going well. So he sent us details of a
couple more post offices for sale. We looked
at one in Wallasey [near Liverpool], that we
bought. We had to raise a bit more money,
but the school options were good.
Since then, life has been focused on work
and the kids. While the three sons now
no longer want to move back to Vietnam
something that disappoints Pete as he
wanted to raise them in both cultures
his wife has also settled in.
Shes been great, he says. Obviously
there have been some stressful moments,
but in general, I think the fact weve always
been working has kept us sane.
He adds: Last year she went back for
the first time in nearly four years. We were
chatting online. She was complaining about
all the noise and the heat. Shes now more
comfortable [in the UK] than at home.
Although her English is good, says

John, because it was a foreign language to
her, she had a major confidence issue. She
struggled with that to start with.
This led to other problems.
I think its to do with how she values
herself, he continues, having the guts to
actually get up and do something here. She
did give it a go, but it was hard for her to
continue on knowing that the lifestyle in
Vietnam is so different.
For her, in England there seemed to
be no end to everyone going to work and
then having to spend the rest of their lives
completely involved with their children. No
time to relax for a coffee or anything. I think
she found that quite tough.
Other issues included friendships. She
never found people unwelcoming, she just
struggled with the way things work; people
dont have their front doors open 24 hours
a day, you cant walk in unannounced.
Everything has to be planned, adds John.
She found that quite difficult.
The deal breaker was the weather.
It was just too cold for her, he says.
To the extent it affects her physically.
She has problems with her joints and gets
headaches. Shes not used to it.
She has since spent increasing amounts
of time back in Vietnam. How the familys
future will unfold remains unclear.
The Weather
Making the Break
Other former expats have not been so

fortunate. One such person is John (name
changed). Returning to the UK with his
Vietnamese wife, two young children and
a thriving business in Vietnam, at first the
transition was smooth. But then everything
started to unravel.
The physical aspect [of moving back]
was pretty simple, he says. There was a
lot of paperwork to do when we got over
here, but it was straightforward. So the
actual logistics were not too difficult. We
kept our business running that helped.
We had put in contingency plans a couple of
years before we moved. It meant we could
do a lot of stuff from the UK, online or by
phone. It wasnt easy, but it was doable.
However, Johns wife never quite
managed to settle. For her life in the UK
was so different to Vietnam that she could
never really fit in. She felt like an outsider.
If you leave Vietnam after living here for a

year or two, then going home is not such
a trial. Its easy to walk straight back into
the rhythm of life. But if your sentence has
gone over a decade, especially if youre
past 40, then returning brings with it a
new set of challenges. As one friend of
mine has discovered, his personal test
is finding work. Hes 48, and despite a
successful track record backed up by all the
qualifications in the world, its taken time.
Far more time than he hoped.
They want people with experience in
the UK, he says. It doesnt matter what
youve done abroad. It counts for nothing.
However, as with everyone Ive spoken
to, the key is to have a plan. It may or may
not work out thats life. However, if you
return without having clearly thought out
your goals and your direction, then youre
setting yourself up for disaster.
Insider
INSIDER
SPECIAL FEATURE
How to Build
a Tourist Town
Home to the largest cave in the world, Phong Nha has gone from out-of-the-way
backwater to thriving tourist town. Yet how do you make the influx of tourist dollars
create benefit for all? Words by Nick Ross.
Ross. Additional reporting by Julie Vola.
Vola.
n 2005 a German couple arrived in

Quang Binh. Working as part of a
conservation project between Cologne
Zoo and Phong Nha-Ke Bang National
Park, they rented a small house 3km
out of Phong Nha Town. Nguyen Thanh
Hai, now one of the most successful
businessmen in Phong Nha, was brought
in to work on the project. He remembers
it well.
Locals stood in front of their house every
day and stared at them to see what [they]
looked like, he recalls. They wanted to see
how they move, how they eat. The couple
got really annoyed and they had to build a
brick fence to cover themselves.
Fast forward three years and I made my
first trip to what was then an untouched,
undeveloped limestone karst national park
with only one cave open to the public. I was
on a one-day tour from Hue.
Like most other non-Vietnamese tourists
of the time, I went by bus, rocked up,
took the boat into the cave, got hassled by
hawkers and then got on the bus and left.
Not the destination we know today.
Yet I have a strong visual memory of
Phong Nha in 2008. I remember gazing at
the mountains and jungle looming in the
distance, at the grandiose rock formations

towering up into the sky, and saying to
myself: I wonder whats inside there?
There was something mystical about this
eerily beautiful land. Yet at the time, heading
into the national park was forbidden.
A year later, Howard and Deb Limbert,
together with local guide, Ho Khanh, and
a group of scientists from the British Cave
Research Association undertook the first
survey of Son Doong. What they discovered
was the largest cave in the world.
The Growth in Tourism

In the past there were maybe 15 to 20
foreign tourists a day, says Ngoc, one half
of the husband-wife partnership behind
Tuan Ngoc Restaurant. Now there are
around 200 to 400. Tourism in Phong Nha is
getting bigger and bigger.
According to Ben Mitchell who has been
in the area since 2006 and started Phong
Nha Farmstay and Easy Tiger Hostel, this
exponential growth in foreign tourism has
changed the reasons for visiting the area.
[Before the discovery of Son Doong]
Vietnamese tourists used to stay in Dong
Hoi and do a day trip to Phong Nha, he
recalls. No money stayed in the community
except for jungle meat, which was what

the Vietnamese wanted to eat when they
came here because it was thought exotic.
So what little money that did get through
to the community was from decimating the
wildlife in the jungle.
He adds: Now, because there are so many
foreigners running around and so much
emphasis on Phong Nha, were seeing less
and less of that type of tourism. I havent
seen it openly for years.
Bens wife and business partner, Le Thi
Bich, remembers that period well. Having
left the area for many years she is proud she
has been able to return and play a role in
the development of Phong Nha. One of her
personal successes was with transportation.
When I started Farmstay [with Ben], it
was so hard for tourists to even get here,
let alone get information on what to do and
get around the area, she recalls. Three
years ago, not long after we opened Easy
Tiger Hostel, we managed to detour one of
the intercity bus companies off Highway
1 out to Phong Nha. Other bus companies
quickly followed. Now we no longer have
everybody tearing past Phong Nha and
missing this awesome area between Ha Noi
and Hoi An.
This plus the growing number of

accommodation options has led to the influx
of a different type of tourist, something that
has been of huge benefit to Ngocs business.
When they first opened in March 2014, their
concept was simply a Vietnamese restaurant
for Vietnamese people.
But a lot of Western people were coming
here and asking to try local Vietnamese
food, she says. So at the moment we do
a lot of food for Western people, but its
different for Vietnamese. Vietnamese like
seasoning put in the food, but Westerners
dont like it. So I do Vietnamese food with
flavours for Westerners.
Howard Limbert has also witnessed the
transformation. Together with his wife Deb,
after 25 years of coming to the area the
British-born cavers are the equivalent of
Phong Nha royalty.
Its changed so dramatically, he says,

citing the way some of the local men on his
original caving expeditions have started to
become successful. One such person is Ho
Khanh, the man who originally discovered
Son Doong. Khanh now has a six-room
homestay and is the porter manager for
Oxalis, the company that runs the tours to
Son Doong. The chef from all the original
expeditions recently opened up a restaurant
in the village, while another of the original
porters, An, now owns a three-villa
homestay.
These are the people who found the
caves, he says. These are people whove
helped us for the past 25 years exploring
caves. So its great to get a bit of reward for
these boys, as these are the ones whove
done all the work.
Yet, working closely with the Quang Binh
Tourist Association and the various local

peoples committees, one of the problems
that Howard has encountered is the lack of
both understanding and experience of how
you can develop tourism for the benefit of
all. One issue is the local food market. Go
to Hoi An and the market is one of the key
attractions. In Phong Nha, its still all about
the caves.
Im really trying to improve the
market, he says. I really think they
should do something as its the first place
that floods. Its absolutely awful. What
they dont appreciate is that so many
tourists are coming to this area now that
they need a market thats good enough not
only for them, but for tourists. But they
have no idea. They are just so far behind
in tourism compared to Hue, Hoi An and
places like that.
In the past there were maybe 15 to 20 foreign tourists

a day. Now there are around 200 to 400. Tourism in Phong
Nha is getting bigger and bigger
To develop a good town for tourism, were trying to get

everyone to work together to make sure that everyones
making some money out of it, and that the [experience] is good
for the customers
The problem, he adds is that when
they see something that is a success like
a cave, they just think cave. Oh thats
great, well have more of them, instead of
thinking of diversity.
Indeed, it is for this reason that the muchmaligned idea of building a cable car to Son
Doong has so often been talked about.
So were trying to help them out with
diversity, he continues. Because as good
as [the caves] are in fact theyre the best
not everyone in the world wants to go
down a cave. I find it hard to believe, but not
everybody does.
Howards answer is to create other
attractions like cycling trails, canopy walks,
jungle treks and climbing expeditions.
Its got outrageous potential, he says.
One For All and All For One

One such person whos tapped into the
need for diversity is Nguyen Thanh Hai.
Responsible for opening the first bar in
Phong Nha, Bamboo Bar, three years ago he
partnered up with Ben and Bich Mitchell and
Mike Rowbottom to build Easy Tiger, the

first backpacker hostel in the area. He has
since started up his own eco tours. The idea
for the tours came from frequent visits to the
local animal rescue centre.
I created the eco tours after I came to
the rescue centre and saw really shit things
happening, he explains. The government
doesnt have enough money to support
it. Vietnam is a developing country, so
money is needed to invest on things like
hospitals, roads and schools. Animals
arent important.
The tours have two benefactors. The first
is the rescue centre itself. He puts money
into a fund which he passes over to the
centre manager every two or three months.
They use that money to buy food for the
animals, to buy medication, to make repairs,
to buy tools, for everything.
The second set of benefactors are the
locals. So, rather than hiring a van which
employs two or three people who are almost
always not local to Phong Nha Hai will
hire motorbike drivers who follow the
tourists, are porters, carry the water, the food

and everything.
This way he can give money to nine
people from Phong Nha rather than the two
or three people who own the van. And, says
Hai, theyre earning more money than they
would get if they worked in construction or
other manual labour jobs.
I try to educate them, he adds. Look,
we dont destroy any trees or animals, but
at the end of the day youll still get money.
If you destroy the forest you can get money
now, but in the future you wont have any
and your children wont have any. But if you
keep the forest intact, you will have money
now and money for the rest of your life and
for your children and their grandchildren.
The key, says Hai, is that everyone works
together, that we think about the future,
about the big picture.
A Helping Hand
Dzung from Jungle Boss Homestay also
believes in the idea of working together
and positive competition. His own
Five or six years ago those people who work in tourism now used
to be hunters, and cut down trees. These jobs stop them [doing that].
Now they look after the environment. They know they have to keep
the environment clean so people will come back
addition to the pot has been the creation
of The Phong Nha Homestay Community
together with a website for a number of
guesthouses phongnhahomestay.com. This
way he can help other business owners
who have one huge disadvantage; they
dont speak much English.
We work together, he explains. I send
people to the other homestays. If theyre
full, they can send to me. So we try to help
them and Im helping them with emails
and so on.
For him its important that everyone gets
benefit from the influx of tourist dollars to
Phong Nha.
At my homestay Ive got three rooms
and Ive got some locals working for me,
he says. I try to persuade my guests to
take Easy Rider, so they can support local
people who will drive you to the caves on
motorbikes. I myself run a hiking tour to the
abandoned valley where you can do one-day
hiking, explore a cave and the jungle and
swim into the cave.

That way you can involve people
working as porters to carry food and
equipment. It benefits the community. Thats
what were all doing at the moment
Phong Nha Farmstay, us, Oxalis. We try to
involve more local people. A lot of people
have a job now.
He adds: Five or six years ago those
people who work in tourism now used
to be hunters, and cut down trees. These
jobs stop them [doing that] and now were
in the same boat. Now they look after the
environment. They know they have to keep
the environment clean so people will come
back, and they collect rubbish.
This ethos of working together is reflected
by Ben Mitchell.
To develop a good town for tourism,
were trying to get everyone to work
together to make sure that everyones
making some money out of it, and that the
[experience] is good for the customers so
that theyre going away from Phong Nha

and not having gripes.
In Search of Diversity
To ensure that the money truly gets spread
around, its important that its not focused
on one place the centre of Phong Nha
Village. This is something that concerns
Ngoc from Tuan Ngoc restaurant who feels
that the centre of the village is now looking
like a city, while head out just 2km, and
people are still very poor.
There is a big gap between rich and poor,
she says. I would like to see things change,
like theyve changed with the Pub With Cold
Beer. Before, the couple who owned the place
were very poor. Now they have a new house,
a lot of people come there to eat their food. I
want other people to be like them. I want the
tourism to spread out and help local people.
Ben Mitchell has a number of answers
to this conundrum. While as Howard says,
inevitably people from outside the province
Can you imagine what the locals would think if they

hadnt had the opportunity to be part of it all? Theyd be
making life very difficult
will come in, buy up land and start trying to
make some money theyre already having
issues with the bus companies there is
much that can be done locally.
One idea that Ben has is to try and
expand the different types of business
models that everyone has. Through this
fashion they can create a place with
diversity rather than one which is full of
copycats with each business providing
exactly the same product as the next.
He cites the example of Bong Lai Valley,
5km to the east of Phong Nha Village. There
are a number of locally owned businesses
there Wild Boar Eco Farm, The Duck
Stop, Muoi Muoi Restaurant, The Pub With
Cold Beer, The Pepper House Farmstay
and each one has a different model, a
different attraction.
The Wild Boar Eco Farm, for example,
is a chill-out places with wild boars, while

The Duck Stop sells refreshments and
home-grown pepper. The Pub With Cold
Beer is famous for its barbecued chicken
and, naturally, the cold beer, while Muoi
Muoi cooks up good, wholesome local food.
Then theres the Pepper House Homestay
with its four rooms around a pool. Its a
big swimming pool set in the middle of the
countryside with nothing around it, says
Ben. Its really, really beautiful.
Another idea hes pushing is branding the
locally grown pepper.
Were trying to make Phong Nha black
pepper famous, he explains. Weve already
got The Nam Hai and Victoria Hoi An using
the pepper in their kitchens. And someone in
Hoi An is selling the pepper.
And then theres the concept of
marketing Phong Nha as three separate
areas: Phong Nha Village, Bong Lai Valley

and Farmstay Village.
While Ben cites unforeseen problems like
growing amounts of rubbish being strewn
around the town and difficulties dealing
with waste, the general outlook is positive.
Everything here is for the community,
he says. Its not individualistic. And its
not everyone trying to cut everyone off all
the time.
Yet Ben is also aware that as a foreigner
whos running two successful businesses
in the area, he has to give something back.
By thinking and acting in the interest of the
community at large, it allows him to live and
operate in Phong Nha.
Can you imagine what the locals would
think if they hadnt had the opportunity to
be part of it all? he says. Theyd be making
life very difficult.
Insider
Ho Chi Minh City
Thanks to Facebook, I first heard about the

Saigon Urban Flea Market at Saigon Outcast
two years ago and Saigon Flea Market in
District 7 last year. I recently discovered
1Spot in front of Victory Hotel on Nam
Ky Khoi Nghia when I was heading to the
Songkran Water Festival in April.
It has been six years since we held the
first Saigon Flea Market. Now we run it
every weekend, says Doan Thu Hang,
founder of Saigon Flea Market.
Its a humid and hot afternoon when I
come to Hangs flea market at IDECAF for
a chat. Despite the weather, there are quite
a number of visitors including locals and
foreigners. Wandering around the market, I
start to understand why the flea market has
become a phenomenon.
Business Opportunities
I sell my products online as I cannot afford
a shop, says Tuyen, owner of Ms. Tuyen,
a stall specialising in fried meat. So this is
a good chance for me to get my products
popular and find more clients.
I got involved last year and have seen
my business improve, she continues as she
packs a box of fried pork for me. So I think I
will stick with this market for a while.
Tuyen is not the only advocate; Nhung
from Amy in Love also has a small corner
for her table that displays handmade
necklaces and stacks of fake tattoos. We
have had the stall here several times, she
explains. Sales are still slow but now we
have some regular clients.
INSIDER
NATIONAL
Not Only Cheap,

Its Flea
Out of nowhere, flea markets have appeared
in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
But what makes them such a phenomenon?
Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy and Emily Petsko
Treasure Hunt
Occupying the whole front yard of
IDECAFs library, the market has around
30 stalls with various products including
clothes, bags, shoes, accessories, soaps,
ceramics and more. My visit coincides with
the first time that Saigon Flea Market has
been held at the institute.
We focus on handmade, designed and
vintage items, second-hand goods and
imported products, says Hang. This
attracts visitors who are interested in
one-of-a-kind products as well as limited
collections.
As someone who is a fan of buying things
second-hand, I understand the feeling of
being able to find the rarest items after
searching for hours. These flea markets help
save time finding those items. In addition,
products are cheaper at flea markets than at
shops due to taxes and rental.
I bought this cute bag at Saigon Urban

Flea Market for VND150,000. Yeah, I know,
so cheap, Sian, a colleague, told me not
long ago.
A Place to Hangout
Although Saigon Urban Flea Market
offers some entertainment including live
music, rock climbing, henna drawing and
food and drink counters, at IDECAF they
put on their first live acoustic show.
We are thinking about having food and
drink counters in the future, says Hang.
This is a good sign for not only Saigon
Flea Market but also the whole scene, as
people who are not interested in shopping
(i.e. most men) can hang out at flea markets
while the women have more time for their
favourite hobby. Another advantage of flea
markets is that they take place at weekends.
Vu Ha Kim Vy
Flea Markets in
Ho Chi Minh City.
1Spot
facebook.com/1spot.moreinone
2day SALE
facebook.com/2daysale
Saigon Flea Market
facebook.com/saigon.flea.market
Saigon Urban Flea Market
facebook.com/saigonurbanfleamarket
Sale 4Share
facebook.com/Sale4Share.Fair
Viets Corner Flea Market
facebook.com/vietscorner.fleamarket
Hanoi
Flea markets are less common in Hanoi than

in Ho Chi Minh City, largely due to a lack
of available space, says Bong Hai Anh, cofounder of the Hanoi Uppik flea market.
Most suitable venues in Hanoi are owned
by the government rather than private
entities, which makes it harder to secure
long-term agreements for space.
Nevertheless, Hai Anh has helped build
the original Hanoi Flea Market the first of
its kind in the capital, which started several
years ago into its successful offshoot,
Hanoi Uppik.
Most recently, the market was held at The
Yard, but it has now been relocated to the
Hanoi Youth Culture and Sports Palace (1
Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung).
Hai Anh says the idea was not necessarily
to cater to shopaholics, but rather to
offer teens and young adults an outdoor
recreational activity in a city that at times
lacks options.
The problem is (the youth) dont have

any place to go, she says. They can go out
, hang out with friends, but then they get
bored. All you can do here is go out, go to
coffee shops and the cinema. Thats it.
Other successful flea markets have
followed Hai Anhs lead.
Flea Market City

If youre well-versed in Hanois nightlife
scene, youve likely been to Hanoi Rock
City a time or two, but you may not know
that it transforms into a creative haven and
shopping centre by day.
An outdoor flea market at the venue,
a fairly new venture, opens for the last
Saturday and Sunday of every month
starting at 9am. Entrance costs VND10,000,
which covers the cost of keeping the
business open longer hours.
Most of the vendors sell trendy clothing,
but other booths display make-up, baked
goods, handmade craft items and even

lingerie.
Dang Anh Tuan, the creator of Sakana
Paper, sells notebooks made from Japanese
paper with colourful designs printed onto
the covers. He came to the flea market for
the first time in April.
Its a good environment, he says. A
lot of foreigners and nice people; nice music
also.
Pham Lan Anh, owner of the Flanh
clothing shop inside Hanoi Rock City and
founder of the flea market committee, says
she wanted to create a fun hangout space for
creative minds to come together.
I want people to come here and we can
learn from each other, she explains. We can
share something about art.
Once you get your fill of shopping, you
can dig into some poutine on sale by the bar,
or head upstairs for a film screening.
Or, if you still have money left over, you
can head down the street to another flea

market in front of the Syrena Shopping
Center on Xuan Dieu.
Chic and Cheap

This one, called the Chic and Cheap Flea
Market, is a little larger with about 50
booths to browse through. Vendors sell
everything from handmade hairbands to
herbal tea to baby clothes.
Its held twice a month on Sundays
(upcoming markets will open on Jun. 12
and Jun. 26).
Nguyen Minh Ngoc founded the flea
market with her friend, Bui Thu Trang,
four years ago. They sold secondhand
clothing, and the flea market proved
popular.
Actually, it was more like a garage
sale, Ngoc says. We held it in the yard

of a secondary school. It went better than
we expected, and then we started to do it
regularly.
While the concept of flea markets is still
relatively new in Hanoi, Ngoc says people
seem to enjoy coming to Chic and Cheap
because its a one-stop destination to
pick up a variety of items.
She says many people try to open flea
markets, but few are successful because
of the challenges that come with finding a
space to set up shop.
There are new markets every day, and
they die the next day, she explains. Right
now only good ones prevail. To name a
few: Hoa Hoc Tro Garage Sale, Fashion
Feast, Hanoi Uppik and The New District.
Emily Petsko
Flea in Hanoi
Chic and Cheap
facebook.com/pages/ChicCheap-FleaMarket/187853758007900
Fashion Feast
facebook.com/
Fashion-Feast-449443965232335
Hanoi Rock City
facebook.com/hanoirockcity.welive
Hanoi Uppik
facebook.com/HanoiUppik
Hoa Hoc Tro Garage Sale
facebook.com/HhtsGarageSale
Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Minh Thuys Family

Restaurant
German cuisine cooked up by a Vietnamese top-seven MasterChef
contestant? Our Mystery Diner heads to Minh Thuys. Photos by Julie Vola
THE VERDICT
12
FOOD
13
SERVICE
11
DCOR
f youre looking for top-quality

German cuisine for a reasonable
price, look no further than Minh
Thuys Family Restaurant.
Located on the busy border of
Hoan Kiem, Minh Thuys is easy to
find, and once inside, youre struck
by the simplicity of the Germanic
design. Red-and-white check cloths
over the tables give the restaurant
a real diner atmosphere, and the
bar is decorated like a Bavarian
cottage, adding a feel of European
sentimentality. Minh Thuy has her
MasterChef apron hanging proudly
from the wall.
Im instantly stuck by the amount
of choice on the menu in fact its
a little overwhelming; maybe this is
something that they ought to consider
addressing. Once your eyes start
scrolling over the options, however,
youre struck again, this time by how
reasonable the prices are.
On To the Food
My first choice the goulash with
mashed potatoes at VND120,000 is

a good-sized portion guaranteed to
fill your stomach. Tender beef, carrots
and an assortment of other wellcooked vegetables swimming in a
sea of thick gravy are complemented
with a dunk of mashed potatoes
in the middle sticking out like a
volcanic island. The dish went down
a treat and almost left me unable to
finish my side dishes a real heavy
German meal.
On the side I have a large bowl
of German potato salad potatoes
in mayonnaise with vegetables
and scrambled egg (VND60,000).
A very tasty accomplice to my
main meal, the potato salad is well
prepared and given its size, is very
good value.
Finally, I have some garlic bread
to finish it all off; at VND25,000
they make excellent dippers for my
beef goulash.
To water your meal down you
can also choose a German beer for a
reasonable price, otherwise a Halida
or Hanoi beer will cost you only

VND15,000 for a large bottle. And
once you have finished your meal
you can sit back and relax with a
large cup of tea for just VND5,000
while you wait for your food to
digest and watch the Old Quarter
buzz past out the window.
The food in Minh Thuys is of
a high standard and the service
certainly has a family warmth about
it. If youre looking for a filling,
German-inspired meal, this is the
place to go in Hanoi.
Alternatively, if youre just looking
for some well-cooked Vietnamese
food, you can still pull up a chair
here. The menu is full of choice from
a range of different influences.
In all, myself and a friend each
had a main course, a drink and
shared generous sides for a total of
just VND315,000 and left feeling
very content.
Minh Thuys Family Restaurant
is located at 2A Duong Thanh, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5
very good to
excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word
reviews
anonymously
and pays for all
meals
Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER
HANOI
Fowl Play
Ted Dalton heads to Chicken Street to get a taste of that most beloved of
Hanoi dishes barbecued chicken. Photos by Julie Vola
o delicious is Vietnamese street

food that we are all prepared to
take the eternal gastric gamble
that eating on the street represents.
However, as we prepare to tuck into a
flame-grilled feast at the appropriately
nicknamed Chicken Street (Ly Van Phuc,
Dong Da) I cant help but recall two news
stories I read a few years ago.
Back in 2013, police in Guangxi
confiscated 20 tonnes of frozen chicken
feet which dated back to 1967, while only
a year after that Chinese authorities seized

30,000 tonnes of chicken feet soaking in
hydrogen peroxide; a chemical which can
make the feet seem whiter and cleaner.
Half of Vietnams northern border is
shared with Guangxi, so trade in produce
continues to be extremely prevalent. I
eyeball the charred chicken foot in my
hand and wonder; how many rolls will
I need for my next bathroom drama. But
food is a pleasure I will endure a measure
of risk for, and the smell of an entire street
of restaurants barbequing chicken is too

overpowering to resist.
Clucking Delicious
KFC deserve some credit for pioneering
the greatest unit of measurement of all
time. I dont want a plate of chicken
feet, nor a bowl of fries. I want a bucket
of chicken. I want a vat of fried sweet
potatoes, and I want a gazebo of honeyglazed bread. The scale of the operation
in Chicken Street is astonishing. Multiple
copycat restaurants with huge buckets

of pre-marinated chicken ready to grill.
Beside the buckets of chicken, hundreds
of baguettes await their fiery fate. Its
efficient, if a little worrisome from a
hygiene perspective.
The chicken here is a masterclass in
simplicity. As Im tearing into the crispy
skin of a chicken thigh to get to the
succulent meat beneath, Ive already got
my eye on the chicken feet and wings on
the table. When discussing fried or grilled
chicken, the general consensus seems to

be that the skin is the best part. So its no
surprise that chicken feet remain so popular
among Vietnamese and foreigners alike, as
there is almost no meat on them at all. Just
skin, marinated, charred and piping hot,
enthusiastically gnawed off of the bone by
Vietnamese teens out in droves.
As a carb-fiend, my favourite part of the
meal are the extras. A baguette, painted
with honey, flattened and then grilled
over fire is dangerously moreish. Equally
calorific are the honey-grilled sweet

potatoes, of which one portion is never
enough. A splash of chilli sauce, a plate of
pickled cucumbers and an iced fresh beer
round off the meal perfectly. If you can
overlook the dour setting and questionable
hygiene standards, arguably the greatest
barbeque in Hanoi awaits you.
Chicken Street can be found in Ly Van
Phuc, Dong Da, Hanoi. We ate at Quan Viet
Ha, where 18 dishes with three drinks cost
VND370,000.
Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
My Banh Mi
This month our undercover reporter makes a departure from top-end
restaurants and instead heads to a purveyor, albeit a top-end purveyor,
of the humble banh mi. Photos by Bao Zoan
ietnam boasts a top-10 global

street food scene, according to the
BBC, the Guardian, Lonely Planet,
the Wall Street Journal and many,
many others. So naturally my date and I
head to one of the swankier banh mi joints
in the city: My Banh Mi.
Managed by Frank Chinn on behalf of his
son, celebrity chef Bobby Chinn, well-known
German chef Andreas Ertle, plus four other
partners, My Banh Mi gets the love online.
People rave about the sandwiches, the bread,
the meat, the mix of traditional and new.
Look on, say, TripAdvisor, and in addition
to an impressive 4.5-star rating, youll find
review after review titled with some variant
of Best Banh Mi.
Not Your Average Banh Mi Stall

The menu was a surprise. For a simple banh
mi joint, it boasts imported New Zealand
striploin steaks, charcoal-grilled chicken,
soup, salad, pasta, and even a small wine
list. When I learnt that the menu was created
and originally cooked up by both Bobby
Chinn and Andreas Ertle, it made more
sense. This is not, in fact, a simple banh mi
joint; it is a sit-down restaurant based on

a dish whose origins go back to the 19th
century and the French colonialists.
To start, we ordered a bratwurst with
sauerkraut (VND145,000) and spring rolls
(VND50,000). The grilled sausage, with
a lovely crisped skin, tasted surprisingly
authentic when dipped in mustard. The
spring rolls were standard deep-fried
affairs, garnished with lettuce and sweetand-spicy dipping sauce.
Not Your Average Banh Mi

For our mains, my date got the traditional
banh mi (VND55,000), with slow-roasted
pork. I ordered Frances banh mi Amour
(VND95,000), with slow-roasted imported
sirloin and a wonderful, zingy creamy
smoked black pepper sauce. Both of the
sandwiches had generous portions of meat
and pork pat, as well as the expected
sliced cucumber, cilantro, spring onion and
chilli. Everything was high quality, and
the resulting sandwiches were tasty and
surprisingly filling. I truly appreciated the
quality of the bread, crispy-crusted and
more substantial than the usual airy loaves
one finds in the street stalls.

I also had a fun little attempt to order
a double cappuccino, ignoring one of my
cardinal rules when going out; if theres
any chance of misunderstanding, let my
date do the talking. I received a smooth,
foamy cappuccino with enough caffeine to
orbit a small satellite. When I checked the
bill at home, I found Id been charged for
a cappuccino (VND50,000) and a double
espresso (VND75,000), neatly explaining
my shaking hands. More sensibly, my date
ordered lemon tea (VND35,000).
Misplaced in Translation
That little scene summed up the service at
My Banh Mi. Willing and enthusiastic, a few
problems in translation nevertheless cropped
up. I initially ordered Italys banh mi Amore
before changing to the similar sounding
Amour. That took some explaining, but
they got me the right dish on the first try.
The dcor is fine, mostly consisting of
prints showing off old Saigon, and a nice
yellow fabric billowing down from the
ceiling. The washroom was clean and wellstocked, and thats not something I take for
THE VERDICT
12
FOOD
11
SERVICE
10.5
DCOR
granted. My only issue was how few lights

were on. True, we arrived near to closing
time, but still, the lighting was so dim I
nearly had to use my phones light to read
the menu. A small issue, in the grand scheme
of things, but one that might deter others.
What Is the Best Banh Mi in the City?

So, is it the best banh mi? Cost-wise youre
never going to beat a street banh mi, so why
try and compete? That seems to have been
the idea here create a superior product
made with quality ingredients. The meat is
better and theres more of it, the bread tastier
and denser. And yet banh mi is one of those
foods you love in part for its imperfections.
I understand the idea of taking banh mi
upmarket. Its been done in restaurants
outside of Vietnam and it works. In the case
of My Banh Mi, theyve produced a great
product, one that can comfortably compete
with the magic that made banh mi so popular
in the first place: served from a tiny stall,
wrapped in yesterdays newspaper.
My Banh Mi is located at 57 Nguyen Du,
Q1, HCMC. You can visit them online at
mybanhmisaigon.com
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5
very good to
excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word
reviews
anonymously
and pays for all
meals
Food and Drink
STREET SNACKER
HCMC
Banh Trang Trang Bang

Rice paper rolled up with boiled pork and vegetables Theres a reason that
this dish from Tay Ninh near the Cambodian border is a Saigon favourite.
Words by Vi Pham. Photos by Sin Kavanagh
aigon is a melting pot of recipes

from different regions in Vietnam,
but not every dish can reach the
level of being tasty, nutritious and
affordable enough to capture a market.
Banh trang Trang Bang (Trang Bang rice
paper) is one of the few street foods that
has managed to bloom on Saigons busy
sidewalks. More than a dish, it is the pride
of a developing province in Vietnam
Tay Ninh.
As one of the most industrialised districts
of Tay Ninh, Trang Bang gathers its fame
from its practice of making banh trang and
the tradition of producing banh trang phoi
suong (rice paper with midnight dew). Last
April the dish won an award for being an
intangible part of Vietnams cultural heritage.
The Art of Making Banh Trang

For the locals, it is not a coincidence for that
this dish from Trang Bang won the award.
They earned it for their hard-working spirit
and most of all, the innovation behind the
traditionally thin and vulnerable banh trang.
Banh trang Trang Bang is a table of herbs,
pickled carrot, juicy boiled pork slices, rice
noodles, a dip and the essential wrapping,
rice paper. Having realised that regular rice
paper or banh trang would be too weak to
wrap around such a diverse and rich filling,
the people of Trang Bang came up with a
thicker and chewier version banh trang phoi
suong. Its also more complicated to make.
Compared to regular banh trang, this
version requires twice the number of
steps. After making the regular sheets of
banh trang, two layers of rice paper are
combined and placed on a flat bamboo net

and then dried under the sun. This allows
the thickness to form and the two layers
to become one. When dry, the rice paper is
grilled over a stove to create extra puffiness.
The banh trang is then exposed to the night
air to absorb the midnight dew. This is when
the chewiness forms, making the rice paper
suitable to make into rolls. The people who
produce the rice paper have to wake up
early to check on the product and go to sleep
around midnight to ensure that it has the
correct exposure to the night air.
The hardest step is the exposure
process, says Mrs. Lanh, a banh trang
phoi suong maker who has run her family
business for more than 20 years.
If the weather is too hot, the sheets crack
easily, and its even worse during rainy
season when it pours down at random times.
There is a high chance well lose everything
if we dont get the banh trang sheets covered
in time.
More than a Street Food

The tradition of making banh trang phoi suong
has become so well-known and celebrated
that the town now has its very own tourist
industry. Tours to a banh trang village and
around the family factories where the rice
paper is made attract a lot of attention, and
not surprisingly, banh trang phoi suong is a
favourite souvenir.
But there is one more thing that makes
this dish so appealing the healthy filling.
One of the essential ingredients in a full meal
of banh trang Trang Bang is the stack of fresh
herbs. These herbs together go by the rustic
name of rau rung (vegetables that grow in

the forest).
Just one bite into a roll and you can taste
the different combination of flavours coming
from the jungle vegetables. Said to have
medicinal properties, the herbs help reduce
body temperature during the dry season
when southern Vietnam heats up like a
furnace. As the demand for banh trang Trang
Bang expands, so the traditional sources of
rau rung are not enough to fulfil demand.
This increases the opportunity for families
in Trang Bang to develop their own herb
and vegetable business. Every day, trucks
filled with homegrown products carry
the freshness to Saigon streets and deliver
them to everywhere from street stalls to
restaurants.
Information
Despite the numerous places selling
banh trang Trang Bang, not every
location can plate the quality ingredients.
Here are a few joints to check out for a
great experience the price varies from
VND60,000 to VND120,000 per portion.
B ANH T RANG T RANG B ANG

174 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Q2
B ANH
TRANG
H OANG T Y
70-72 Vo Van Tan, Q3
B ANH T RANG U T D UNG
411-413 Nguyen Tri Phuong, Q10
Travel
As beach after
Southeast Asian beach
goes commercial, Jesse
Meadows returns to her
own personal Mecca in
Thailand to see if
Tonsai, too, has gone
under the hammer
TRAVEL
THAILAND
The Tourification
of Tonsai
e all have a happy place.

Coordinates that were so
perfect, the memory serves as
mental refuge for years after
weve left. I found mine when I floated
in the waters of Tonsai Beach, a rock
climbing mecca of massive, looming cliffs
and slow, salt-drenched tranquility.
Close to Krabi in Thailand, Tonsai sits to
the west of the Railay beaches, a short climb
through the jungle or walk along the rocks
at low tide. Its a different world entirely
when you cross to Railay, all resorts and
big flat sands. Tonsai is rougher. Theres not
much beach to lounge on here, but in the
small strip of wet sand exposed when the
water goes out, you can lay under the jagged
outcrop and watch the climbers try to figure
out the rock.
Theres only one road in town, and just
a handful of reggae bars. A massive grey
wall lines the road, blocking off land where
a new resort is slated to be built. Some days
theres a barge on the beach, bringing in
supplies to develop my beautiful Tonsai.
We dont like this wall, says red, yellow
and green graffiti.
At night, the climbers converge on Sunset
Bar. There they sit around a hollowed-out
longtail boat and roll spliff after spliff. I sip
an apple shake and listen to the conversation
about how much Tonsai is changing. They
just rebuilt this bar six months ago. It was
Tofis dream, someone says.
Tofi is a charismatic Thai man with a
ponytail, a constant smile, and a repertoire

of catch phrases. A stranger to no-one, hes a
fixture behind the bar.
That was a year ago, and I hadnt been
able to get Tonsai out of my head. Had they
built the resort? Was my happy place no
more, manicured to death and overrun with
Russian tourists? I needed to go back, so I
hopped a flight to Bangkok, caught a night
bus to Krabi, and jumped on a longtail boat
out of Ao Nang.
Another Brick in the Wall

My feet hit the surf in relief. The trees were
still there. They hadnt brought in fake
sand, or built a JW Marriott. I began the
trek uphill towards town, past that damn
wall. It was still there, but it was no longer
just grey concrete. A fancy place called the
Tonsai Bay Resort had been built on one
side of it, golf carts and green lawns looking
laughably out of place.
The community had written their
distaste all over the wall that was meant
to keep them out. Yes, they sold Tonsai to
the pirates, said one message. You are
now leaving the capitalistic sector, said
another, as I passed the resort and headed
into the jungle.
New bars and restaurants had cropped
up, but my favourites were still there; Chill
Out Bar, Sabai Sabai, Mamas Chicken. And
there was Tofi, behind the stick at Sunset,
just where Id left him a year ago.
Tofi had been in Tonsai for a decade, ever
since someone came to Railay Beach looking

for help with the electricity. Unsatisfied
working there, he agreed to come along, and
he never went back. He opened Sunset Bar
three years later. When I asked him about the
changes that were happening, he shrugged
again. Slowly, slowly, he replied.
And its true, nothing happens fast in
Tonsai. Theres no urgency here, nowhere
to be but wherever you are. I sat at
Sunset for hours that night, watching the
characters come and go. There are no real
locals here; the beach was discovered
by climbers 20 years ago, and most of the
Thai people who work here come from the
countryside or the islands.
That night, Tofi invited me to his village. I
was reluctant to leave Tonsai again so soon,
but my curiosity told me I couldnt say no.
The next morning I was in his SUV, on an
hour-long ride into middle-of-nowhere
Krabi with three other Westerners. Among
us was Ian, an Australian climbing instructor
who had been coming to Tonsai for the past
10 years. This time, hed been on the beach
for two-and-a-half months, and welcomed
this chance to escape the bubble.
Bubble
We couldnt have gotten further from it. Tofi
took us to a tiny Muslim village that rarely
ever sees foreigners, save for the ones he
brings from Tonsai. I ate quite possibly the
best goat curry of my life, drank a herbal,
highly caffeinated tea called jungle juice with
That was a year ago, and I hadnt

been able to get Tonsai out of my
head. Had they built the resort?
Was my happy place no more,
manicured to death and overrun
with Russian tourists?
I needed to go back
Tofis uncle, and went night fishing with

his brother. There was no running water, no
showers, and just a blanket on the floor to
sleep on, but we didnt need anything else.
Back on Tonsai, I thought about all the
bartenders and waiters and firespinners,
and how every one of them had a
hometown outside the bubble, too. There
was Mamai, a singer who entertained us
every night. Lucky, who ran the ice cream
shop next to Sunset Bar. And Mama, who
made the best chicken on Tonsai, with the
help of her three daughters.
Ive watched them grow up, Ian
remarked over a chicken sandwich one
night. Hes been watching Tonsai change
for years. Lately, he says, less climbers have
been coming, and theres been an influx of
flashpackers, twenty-somethings on a gap
year, in search of liquor in buckets.
I think we have at least two more years
before they start building, he said, as
we walked past the walled-off beachfront
property opposite the Tonsai Bay Resort.
Theyll bulldoze the rocks and bring in
fake sand, like they did in Railay. The
climbing community had tried to stop the
development in the beginning, writing
up a petition to Save Tonsai with tens of
thousands of signatures, but it was no use.
I was supposed to leave the next day, but

thinking about Tonsais tourified future, I
couldnt bring myself to do it. Who knew
how many times I could come back before it
was just another pretty beach in Thailand?
Maybe it was the full moon messing with
my logic, but I logged onto Sunsets WiFi
and changed my flights like a star-crossed
lover. I spent the next couple of days soaking
in the salt and sand, baptising myself in the
sea and the slow pace of life.
This trip to Tonsai showed me a side
I hadnt thought about the first time Id
stumbled upon it as a wide-eyed backpacker.
Visiting Tofis village and meeting his family,
I saw what was behind the beers I bought
at Sunset Bar, and how important it is to
consider where I spend my money and who
I support with it.
Am I funding some faceless foreign
millionaire who put up a resort on a
Thai beach, or a local family running a
guesthouse? Do I travel for myself, or do
I travel to experience a culture other than
my own? When it comes to tourism, money
speaks louder than words. We may not be
able to stop corporate development, but
we can put our money back into the local
communities that give us such unforgettable
experiences.
When it comes to
tourism, money speaks
louder than words.
We may not be able
to stop corporate
development, but we
can put our money
back into the local
communities that give
us such unforgettable
experiences
Travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
The Other Side

of Maldives
Paradise-like beaches, crystal clear seas, tropical nirvana Yet
as Tran Cam Thu discovers, theres far more to this group of
islands than first meets the eye. Photos by Hang Le
hree years ago, on a rather idyllic

day at work, our Singaporean
project manager was doing
market research for an idea for his
upcoming wedding. Girls, what would
be your ideal honeymoon destination?
The three singletons said in perfect
unison, Why do you even have to ask? The
Maldives! (Back then we were unaware of
El Nido or Seychelles or Bora Bora, and Bali
and Phuket already seemed too worn-out to
be considered.)
Maldives; two syllables that conjure up
images of bone-white sand, turquoise water,
and water villas on stilts that only royal
families, celebrities and similarly wealthy
resort-goers can afford. Maldives; the
ultimate wedding/anniversary/who-needsa-reason destination daydreamers like me
save up for for years.
Thats how it was for nearly 40 years
after the Republic of Maldives opened its
first resort in 1972, something that was kept
separate from the countrys residents by
the then-President. Given that the country
consists of a double chain of 26 atolls with
1,192 islands, there would seem to be
enough sun, sand and sea for everyone.
But things took a big turn in 2009 when
the Maldivian government started to allow
guesthouses to be opened on the populated
islands rather than limiting tourism to the
uninhabited islands. Budget travellers can
now stay with locals and gain an insight
into the islanders lives while enjoying the
same natural beauty as those royals and
celebrities.
Partly in the name of writerly research and
partly to indulge a long-standing personal
fantasy, I learned that the upper limit on the
cost of accommodations in the Maldives is,
not infinity as I previously believed, but a
bit less. Velaa Private Island Resort houses
the most expensive room in the Maldives
at US$30,000 per night. Thats not a typo.
I now can believe the story that a Russian
millionaire, at the end of his vacation, asked
for his guides backpack and stuffed it with
US$3,000 in cash as a tip for a few days
work. Im seriously considering seeking

employment in the Maldives high-end
tourism industry.
Getting In
Most international flights to the Maldives
land at Ibrahim Nasir International Airport
in Hulhulmale, where the majority of
tourists board connecting domestic flights
or take seaplanes or speedboats to other
islands. On a shoestring budget, we spent a
night in Hulhulmale and the next day took
a less-than-glamorous ferry to Male (the
capital) and on to the island of Maafushi.
Hulhulmale struck us as an artificial island
reclaimed to provide the needed landmass
for growing residential and commercial
demand of Male. Since being among
apartment buildings that look like sisters to
the Linh Dam urban area of Hanoi was not
our idea of holidaying, much less paradise,
we quickly escaped via the 20-minute ferry
ride to Male.
The Capital
And what an escape it was. Measured in
people per square kilometre Male happens to
be the one of the most crowded cities in the
world. We arrived on New Years Eve, but
I doubt that other days are any better. The
air was full of exhaust fumes from cars and
scooters vying for space with pedestrians in
the narrow, tangled alleys. It reminded me
of the Old Quarter of Hanoi just before Tet,
which is nothing youd normally associate

with the stereotyped ethereal Maldives.
As the Maldives is a Muslim country,
alcohol cannot be bought or consumed in
public there. We tried to find a coffee shop
in which to escape from our escape but
there were hardly any in sight. We bought
some imported Australian bottled juice and
waited for the New Years Eve traffic to
thin out before heading back to Hulhumale.
When it comes to travelling, there are places
you know in your heart you would or at
least wish to come back to someday. Neither
Hulhulmale nor Male makes that list for me.
From Male, we took a taxi to the Vilingili
ferry terminal and boarded another ferry
to Maafushi where we would stay for three
days. We arrived early, but the tickets for
the morning ferry were already sold out.
I shuddered at the thought of hanging
around Male waiting for the afternoon ferry.
Luckily we met a tourist who had managed
to secure a private boat and was rounding
up other tourists in the same predicament.
Our (slower) boat cost US$10 per person
compared to US$200 for a speedboat.
Maafushi Not Your Resort Island

It was high noon when we disembarked at
Maafushi, one of the local islands opened up
for tourism close to Male. Two people were
already directing visitors to their hotels.
We were told to go stand in the shade and
someone would take care of our luggage.
I headed to paradise with my girlfriends,

expecting to myth-bust a tourist trap. I came
back in love with an island with a small-town
feel, a turquoise green sea and white sand
beach, and the life-loving attitude of some
funny guys who run a modest guesthouse
Budget travellers can now stay with locals and gain an insight
into the islanders lives while enjoying the same natural
beauty as those royals and celebrities
One guy read the suspicion on my face and
said with unconcealed disdain: Dont worry
about the money. This is not Sri Lanka,
where even having somebody keep an eye
on your luggage costs money. Since we
had just left Colombo two days earlier, I can
attest to his accurate knowledge of tourism
practice in neighbouring countries.
After much-needed welcome drinks and
lunch, we were briefed on the Maldives by
Ali, who we took to be the Holiday Lodge
Maldivess owner because he spoke with
so much pride and confidence about the
Maldives and embodied everything we
loved about the hotel and the island of
Maafushi. With Alis help we designed an
itinerary for the next two-and-a-half days.
Ali frankly answered all our questions
about what you can and cannot see at that
time of the year, and customized a tour for
us to make the most out of our limited time
and money.
Simple Joys
We retired to our rooms to get ready for
the night fishing, which almost everyone
staying at the lodge was eager to try. After
multiple failed attempts to catch a fish,
even with patient instruction from the
super helpful professionals on board, I
decided to slack off and wait for the others
to finish. I lay down on the deck, feeling
the cool breeze caress my skin, soaking in
the star-coated velvety sky, and soon dozed
off to the lulling sound of the boat engine.
Apparently utopia doesnt need to be
bought at a whopping 30 grand.
When we got back to the lodge, tables had
been nicely set along the seafront and the
staff immediately began grilling our catch,
generously supplemented with fish from
their kitchen. I pulled my knees up, wrapped
a scarf around my body, and revelled in the
beauty and tranquillity of the dark ocean
on my left and the lights of the village on
my right. I finally understood the appeal of
this island for me. It was like the Vietnam
of 15 years ago. Not completely untouched
but not yet devoured by commercialisation.
I loved the lodges personal touches a
frangipani here, an oil lamp there, the
tentative waiter who took his time setting
out the cutlery as if it were Victorian Era
silverware and served your food as if you

were royalty.
I thought again of the charming manager,
Ali, whose sharp tongue entertained and
whose warmth and authenticity shone
through. When youve stayed in five-star
hotels where the staff display manufactured
smiles and answer you with scripted
replies, a small lodge like this is refreshingly
personable and a welcome break from the
standardisation that is swiftly overtaking the
hospitality industry.
All Equal Before the Sea

The next morning at 10 (early according
to Ali) we set out for a day of snorkelling.
Corals are not the selling point of the
Maldives but I was impressed with more
than 50 mesmerising shades of blue and
green that I had glimpsed from the plane
the day before and fell in love with the
turquoise water whose shade varied with its
depth. Our knowledgeable guide and our
speedboat driver whom we fondly referred
to as our Captain, took us to an area that was
ours alone.
I was unlucky enough to miss both a
beautiful turtle and a baby shark that swam
by, but the colourful Maldives fish (including
many Nemos), dolphins, and flying fish I
saw more than made up for it. After a few
hours of oohing over the flora and aahing
over the fauna and posing for underwater
photos with our merman-guide, we flopped
onto a sandbank for a late lunch catered by
our lodge.
The Village
We spent the late afternoon exploring
Maafushi, which you can circle in 20 minutes
on foot. At the islands southern end is the
largest prison in the country it has held a
number of prominent inmates, including a
former president. Western tourists in shorts
passed Muslim girls wearing abayat and
niqab (meaning they were covered from head
to toe except for their eyes) on the islands
unpaved paths. No bikinis are allowed on
public beaches in the Maldives, but there
is a small stretch partitioned off where
the private beach looked like any beach
in the world, dotted with tourists in usual
swimwear.
That evening we had dinner in the lodges

lovely garden. Ali had brought in a singer
from Male who performed covers of timeless
ballads such as Wonderful Tonight and a
beautiful, sad Maldivian song to give us a
taste of Maldivian culture. This inspired one
of the guests to sing Avril Lavignes Im With
You for her partner, which prompted Ali to
invite her to sing something for the rest of
us. She sang a song from her country, Russia,
which for a brief five minutes transported
me to another world. The randomness of
all this made us appreciate all the more
the small-town feel of Maafushi and the
intimacy of a place like the lodge.
Options
The Maldives is a destination we are often
advised to save for our honeymoon. I
headed to paradise with my girlfriends,
expecting to myth-bust a tourist trap. I
came back in love with an island with
a small-town feel, a turquoise green sea
and white sand beach, and the life-loving
attitude of some funny guys who run a
modest guesthouse. Do I wish I could
recount the experience of staying in a super
luxurious resort that costs a few grand a
night or spending the night in a secluded
villa above water with nothing in sight
except the ocean?
Yes, it would surely feel more than
great, if not just for the feel of exclusivity
and extravagance and make for good
conversation (read, bragging) with friends
and acquaintances. Yet having a limited
budget does not mean we have to miss
out on another kind of experience in
the Maldives. The kind that is arguably
equally enjoyable, or just satisfying in a
different way.
Getting There
AirAsia offer direct flights from Kuala
Lumpur to The Maldives. Alternatively,
you can fly via Bangkok with Bangkok
Airways. Flights from Bangkok start at
VND5.5 million one-way before tax and
other extras. From Kuala Lumpur the
cheapest fares before extras and taxes
cost from VND2 million one-way.
Travel
DALAT
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
This enormous structure

offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts
an outdoor driving range.
Shortly to become a Marriot
property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI
6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
fortuna.vn
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL
172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,

this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
This 350-room four-star set

up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming
pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set
to the west of town, Fortuna
often offers business deals
on rooms and spaces to hold
meetings, presentations and
celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train

Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
M M M
HANOI
INTERNATIONAL
CROWNE PLAZA WEST
INTERNATIONAL
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 5555
hanoi-daewoohotel.com
Resting just a step away

from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create
a contemporary space. The
first boutique five star in
the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107
rooms and suites contain
all the mod cons and are
complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
HILTON GARDEN INN
HANOI
20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944
9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped
guestrooms and suites, this
is the first Hilton Garden Inn
property in Southeast Asia.
Centrally located and a short
stroll from the historic Old
Quarter, the hotel offers a full
service restaurant, a stylish
bar, along with complimentary business and fitness
centres making it perfect for
the international business or
leisure traveller.
HILTON HANOI OPERA
1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic

Hanoi Opera House and a
short stroll from the Old
Quarter, this five-star hotel is
a Hanoi landmark. With 269
fully-equipped rooms and
suites, theres plenty for the
discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL
HANOI WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
hanoi.intercontinental.com
This stunning property built

over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all
the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic

signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel
in Hanoi is the new definition
of contemporary luxury. Lies
next door to the National
Convention Centre.
MAY DE VILLE OLD
QUARTER
43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel

in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central

Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers
and is also a popular venue
for conferences and wedding
receptions. State-of-the-art
rooms, elegant restaurants,
stylish bars, fully equipped
fitness centre with sophisticated service always make
in-house guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI
83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
moevenpick-hanoi.com
With its distinctive French

architecture and top end
service, Mvenpick Hotel
Hanoi is aimed squarely at
corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge
bar are available to satiate
their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range
of equipment. Massage and
sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to
rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites,
93 are non-smoking.
NOVOTEL SUITES
5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3576 6666
novotel.com/9813
Suites and apartments with

all the mod cons and attrac-
tive dcor youd expect of an

Accor property. Located close
to My Dinh and 20 minutes
from downtown Hanoi, this
new property with an inhouse restaurant and bar is
perfect for business professionals or travellers looking
to mix a stay in Hanoi with
the feeling of being located
in a place you can call home.
PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0688
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and

suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a
la carte restaurant, this Accor
group property is prestigious
and close to the Old Quarter.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and

tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious
rooms, the hotel offers an
outdoor swimming pool and
great relaxation and fitness
facilities, including a tennis
court and spa. There are well
equipped conference rooms
and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND
METROPOLE HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French

colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI
1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys
above the city skyline. The
5-star hotel features 317
luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake
view or river view ranking in
7 types from Classic Room to
Imperial Suite.
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to

grace Hanois Old Quarter, the
six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast
is included and in the long,
lounge restaurant on the
second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up

with fresh fruit juices and
Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE
HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the

Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary
sundries and a replenishable
minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese
cuisine.
JOSEPHS HOTEL
$$
5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3938 1048
josephshotel.com
Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes
comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or
Vietnamese breakfasts. All
the modern amenities at
reasonable prices.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA
HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem

Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the
Opera House, May de Ville
City Centre is a welcome
new addition to the capital.
Combining contemporary
architecture with traditional
Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has
81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS
HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,

with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting
at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from
VND250,000. A place to meet
like-minded fold in the Old
Quarter.
HCMC
INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports 2006
list of the worlds top 100

luxury hotels, the Caravelle
houses the popular rooftop
Saigon Saigon bar, and the
restaurants Nineteen and
Reflections.
EQUATORIAL
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property boasts

seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business
centre, meeting rooms and
a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial
also has an on-site casino.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex

offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL
ASIANA SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh

City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
LE MRIDIEN SAIGON
$$$$
3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC
Tel: (08) 6263 6688
lemeridien.com/saigon
Marking the brands debut

in Vietnam, Le Mridien Saigon is the gathering place for
curious and creative-minded
travellers. Located in the
heart of Ho Chi Minh City
next to the Saigon River, the
property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and
commercial areas, making it
an ideal base for exploring
the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating
surroundings.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL

SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
Former guests include U.S.

presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing
event as well as a hotel,
New World is one of the best
luxury stops in town.
This 20story building in

downtown Saigon, caters to
upscale business and leisure
travelers seeking a classic yet
contemporary stay in Saigon.
saigon.newworldhotels.com
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in

location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
PULLMAN SAIGON
CENTRE
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the

site of the old Metropole, this
upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature
rooms combining design,
comfort and connectivity.
Innovative cuisine, a great
downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to
host up to 600 guests make
up the mix.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the

Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE
HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 1117
renaissance-saigon.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup
or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of

the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities, an
openair restaurant 23 floors
above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.
sofitel.com
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its

own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining,
a sauna, health club, and
superb panoramic views of
the cityscape. Also hosts
the largest Oktoberfest in
the region.
M M M
HCMC DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
Tan Son Nhat International

Airport. With spectacular
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
M M M
HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY

HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
M M M
HCMC BUDGET
This charming old hotel has

been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to
highlight Vietnamese culture.
DUC VUONG HOTEL

$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
Free WiFi offered in every

room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique

business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08)
3822 4866
ducvuonghotel.com
from the backpackers area.

DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
FURAMA RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HONG HOA HOTEL

$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL

$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
M M M
HOI AN & DANANG
AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
anbangbeachretreat.com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh
Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396
1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH

RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang
Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning

white sands of Bac My An
Beach, the stylish Pullman
Danang Beach Resort is
an oasis of activities and
facilities for the modern
traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is
perfect for a family holiday
or romantic beach getaway.
And with extensive function
facilities, Pullman Danang
also provides the a great location for your next incentive
getaway or event.
HYATT REGENCY DANANG

RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang

Resort and Spa is beachfront
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has

a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
VILLA SONG SAIGON
$$$
197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6090
villasong.com
Deliberately located away

from the city centre in Thao
Dien, this riverside boutique
villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm a
rarity in Ho Chi Minh City.
Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and
dining options make this a
great, non-city centre choice.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
The newly-built hotel is near
NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY
Hoi An is not just a place to get

clothes made. It also has pagodas
and pagodas on bridges
ts my sons big overseas experience. He

stops off at Vietnam on his way from
New Zealand to London, where a job
awaits him. He is buoyed up by the
prospect of life overseas, and raring to go,
has but one problem. He is weighted down
by far too much baggage. Ive told him
time and time again that travelling light
is the only way to go, but then whoever
listens to the advice of their oldies?
Never mind, you can offload a suitcaseful
of your stuff with me here in Vung Tau, I
tell him.
He duly jettisons a sleeping bag,
binoculars, battery recharger, alarm clock,
suitcase, and a ton of clothes, surrendering
them to my tender care. He has allocated
10 days for his visit to Vietnam, and, along
with three of his mates who are travelling
with him, to see a bit more of the country
before their flight to the UK.
Well, lets see Hanois worth a look,
Halong Bays a blast, Hues interesting,
and whatever you do dont miss Hoi An.
Its a little humdinger of a town, the best in
Vietnam in my opinion.
After dark the old town

of Hoi An lights up over
the river
The Trap
By Don Wills
He arrives back at my place eight days later.

He has one arm behind his back and a silly
grin on his face.
What have you got there?
He sheepishly withdraws his arm to
reveal a spruce new business suit.
You stupid pillock! I thought you wanted
to reduce your luggage, not add to it.
Yeah, but it was so bloody cheap,
and so fast, and so irresistible. All my
mates bought one too, he added, as if this
somehow made his purchase more justifiable.
My son had, like countless travellers
before him, succumbed to Hoi Ans famed
tourist trap: 24-hour tailor-made clothing.
I cant say I blame him; I too had
splurged on handmade clothes and
shoes during my visit there several
years previously. The temptation is
overpowering. The prices are low, the
service fast, and the smiling sales ladies
persuasive. Business is booming. Their
shops are filled with fabrics of every
description piled ceiling-high. The windows
display glamorous mannequins garbed in
ENTRY 5:
The Hoi An Tourist Trap
Resorts such as Victoria Hoi An

provide a beach experience to
add to the charm
all the latest fashions. Out the back theres

the sound of whirring sewing machines.
OK, so can you make me a pair of
trousers, a shirt no, make that two
shirts and do you do shoes as well? Yes?
Alright, Ill have...
Once youve ordered your clothes, youll
have plenty of time to explore the riverside
town. In Hoi An everything worth seeing
is within walking distance. The old quarter
is closed to traffic, making it an ideal
place for a walkabout. And the attractions
are many; museums, pagodas, temples,
artisans workshops, boat rides on the
river, and shops selling paintings, wood
carvings, pottery, newly made antiques,
and lanterns.
Hoi An has retained its sense of history.
UNESCO has proclaimed it a World
Heritage Site, so the tear-it-down-andbuild-anew mindset that plagues many
Asian cities doesnt apply here. Building
restrictions ensure that old buildings are
preserved in their original form, and things
like modernisation and high-rises are strictly
a no-no.
What They Say

The people at Lonely Planet are obviously
as enamoured of Hoi An as I am. They
write: The riverside town oozes charm and
culture from every corner. Emphatically the
most charming place along the coast, this is
one spot worth lingering at.
Not everyone is as enthused though.
Contributors to the increasingly popular
TripAdvisor website are mostly fulsome in
their praise of the town (highlight of our
visit, Vietnams best kept secret, a gem
of a place), but there are some critics too.
One indignant contributor urges people
to boycott the place because of the US$6 fee
charged to enter the old city. Another calls it
a classic example of cultural degradation as a

result of pandering to tourism. One complains
that the people of Hoi An will do absolutely
anything to milk a buck out of you. There
have been reports of slipshod tailoring, gaping
holes appearing in dresses after a couple of
wearings, and overly pushy salespeople.
But 95 percent of the reports Ive heard
have been positive, and in many cases have
been euphoric in their praise. In my book
thats a good enough thumbs-up for me.
Sure, its a tourist trap, but Im not averse to
getting trapped once in a while.
Born in New Zealand, Don Wills lives in
Vung Tau. Hes been writing his way round the
region for decades
Hoi An has retained its sense of history.

UNESCO has proclaimed it a World Heritage Site,
so the tear-it-down-and-build-anew mindset that
plagues many Asian cities doesnt apply here
Travel
with a stunning view of the

Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences
and 27 private ocean villas,
each with a private pool.
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777
mercure-danang.com
Set on the Han River, this

well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of
the nicest hotels in Central
Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some
phenomenal views over
the city make up the mix.
THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510)
394 0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive

swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant
spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, preprogrammed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
M M M
HUE & LANG CO
ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South

Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The

Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting

the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
M M M
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA
AND SIX SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination
2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villastyle

accommodation furnished
in traditional native woods,
this resort offers verandah
dining, a pool bar and the
signature Six Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this

budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the
jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with 154

guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete
with a pool, spa, restaurant,
bar and meeting room that

caters for up to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY
NINH VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG

HOTEL AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
M M M
PHAN THIET & MUI NE
NINH CHU BAY BEACH
CLUB & BAR
Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan
Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068)
627 2727
ninhchubay.com
Enjoy the private beach with

excellent facilities and have a
massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon
to become a fully fledged
resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria,
draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this
one of a kind destination.
BLUE OCEAN RESORT
$$$$
54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a

swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those
who opened it in 1995.

JOES GARDEN RESORT
$$
86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham
Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384
7177
joescafemuine.com
A leafy, seafront bungalow

resort and caf with nightly
live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places
youd find on the Thai islands, an international and
Asian food menu together
with a cheap happy hour
on beer make up the relaxing mix.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria

chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens with
an infinity swimming pool,
a seafood restaurant, spa,
beauty salon and jacuzzi.
M M M
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE
BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar

all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for US$8
(VND168,000) each a night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room
for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
M M M
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island,
Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a

beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike
rental, boat trips and tours
are easily arranged. Discount
rates during rainy season.
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SALINDA RESORT PHU
QUOC ISLAND
$$$$
Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To
Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien
Giang
Tel: (08) 3929 3097
Hotline 0907 99 55 02
salindaresort.com
Set on the sea and only 4km

away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is
inspired by an interplay of
rustic local heritage with
contemporary design. The
property has 121 rooms and

villas with private balconies,
and provides a luxury experience that embodies the
understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl
of Asia.
M M M
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from

its bar restaurant, the Cat
Cat Guesthouse is paradise
at very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of

the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
M M M
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM
BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT

$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao,
Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is the

ideal getaway from Ho Chi
Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-
galows and villas promise a

local experience complete
with an excellent spa and
two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come

with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and
cycling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM
STRIP
Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is

Vietnams first large scale
integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star
hotel, a world-class casino,
restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP
area, as well as a variety of
beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the
Greg Norman-designed golf
course, The Bluffs, one of the
best golf courses in Vietnam.
M M M
TRAVEL
SERVICES HANOI
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
(BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at

the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam.
BTA customizes leisure and
corporate travel plans while

offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXO TRAVEL
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel

agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers

with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure
tours to both popular and
isolated locations in Vietnam,
Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track
sustainable and responsible
tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more
well-worn destinations.
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising

in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa kenya-airways.
com), American Airlines (aa.
com) and Turkish Airlines
(thy.com).
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM
57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an

international travel company
operating in Vietnam since
1992, offering innovative day
tours, short breaks and small
group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed
departures, Intrepid focuses
on real life experiences in Ho

Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong
Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and
beyond to get you up close
to Vietnams people, cuisine,
history and culture.
TRAVEL SENSE ASIA
Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Tel: (04) 3715 3977
kien@travelsense.asia
A homegrown travel agency providing small group

journeys and tailor-made
holidays to Vietnam, Laos,
Cambodia, Myanmar and
Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisors Top 10 of best tours in
Hanoi since 2010.
TRAVEL
SERVICES HCMC
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY
70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh
City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170
buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency

helps travellers select their
destinations and organise
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,
explore the world or Vietnam.
EXO TRAVEL
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced

travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY
3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management,

domestic and international air
booking and travel insurance,
to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.
GRASSHOPPER
ADVENTURES
Tel: 0946 704095
grasshopperadventures.com
Escape the bustle with
Southeast Asias top rated

bike tour company. Run guided day tours to the Mekong
Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels.
Also organize longer, two
to 14-day tours throughout
Vietnam.
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward
4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08)
3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through

the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
VIETNAM VESPA
ADVENTURE
169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222
993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers

multiday tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable
biodiesel. English-speaking
tour guides lead the way.
TRAVEL SERVICES
ELSEWHERE
BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS
Tel: (08) 6298 5659
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street

food to give customers a
truly immersive Vietnamese
experience.
BEENINASIA.COM
beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast

Asia. Offers you selection
of best hotels and great
tours. Create your own trip
or we can tailor make your
itinerary.
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City,
Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
Want to set up non-standard

tours in the Mekong with
local guides whove got extensive local knowledge? This
might be the place to contact.
May 3rd - Oct 31st
THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES

PART 15: CONNECTING THE DOTS
The final stretch. Riding his dear bike, Nemo, Matt is nearing Kathmandu
DAY 265
Dystopian Future?
Eight years since my last visit, Nepal and
surprise; there is no petrol in the entire
country. No petrol at all, courtesy of India,
corruption and petty politics. And Im told
that people in the capital city form lines
stretching for several districts waiting
overnight to get rations of gas at prices
reaching US$10/litre.
And everyones guarding the little
gas they have like gold. All around, gas
stations are shuttered, trucks left to sit idle
in the middle of highways. A mere few
regional buses which still run charge an
average monthly wage-worth for a short
ride, and its a general nationwide domino
effect one could imagine when essential
resources run out.
With what remains in my tank, I push

on to Bardia National Park. Met two guys
along the way. Friendly young locals
offering to host me for a night or are
they? Cant put my finger on it but with
each minute their demeanour turns more
erratic, more violent, and somethings very
off about them.
And I dont know why, against myself,
I agree to follow them to their place. Pitch
black darkness, no point of reference, was
supposed to be a 10-minute ride and now
Ive been behind them on the road for an
hour, pretty sure were headed in the wrong
direction. Every alarm and a thousand little
voices are all screaming in my head as they
make suspicious attempts to avoid army
checkpoints. Nope, thats enough.
I lag behind and discreetly turn off into
the forest. Quietly set up my tent in the

dark. Pretty sure theyll turn around and
look for me. I feel bad. But did I just barely
avoid a dangerous ordeal?
DAY 269
Tiger Safari
Beautiful jungle at dawn. Streaks of sun
fall through the trees diffused by morning
fog. Three-metre-tall grasses. And leeches
everywhere.
I keep falling behind, part intentionally,
wanting to take it in without the American
couple in army gear snapping pictures
around me. No animals today. Too hot.
The Americans are not happy but my
mind is thrilled and elsewhere entirely,
mentally writing a story about a world
where natures taken over once mankind
has depleted its resources and nearly driven

itself to extinction.
DAY 273
Lumbini
No flat tyre for 20,000+ km. Now I get to
Nepal and I catch five flats within one
week. Im 10km from Lumbini, the historic
birthplace of the Buddha when I fly off the
road desperately trying to avoid running
into a pack of black cows, completely
invisible in the darkness.
DAY 275
Holy Cow!
Cows everywhere. Theres a cow in my
guesthouse. Inside. Garlands, flowers,
dyes all around it. Surely it took a shit in
the walkway. And theyre all praying to it,
blessing their children with it. Cow signifies

wealth! It gives us milk, cheese, curd, Im
told. But there are seven other cows sniffing
through garbage and blocking traffic right
outside, right now and no one seems to pray
to those.
DAY 277
Gasoline
20 litres of petrol smuggled from India. I can
keep moving.
DAY 278
Deepavali
Deepavali, the Nepali version of Diwali!
Small town of Tansen. Coloured powders
around. Kids walking the alleys with
cardboard altars, much like western
carollers, only moving on once paid off.
DAY 286
Suburbs of Kathmandu
After 286 epic days, Ive almost connected
Hanoi to Kathmandu on the map. Wild.
No celebrations yet though, not until I
reach Kathmandus Durbar Square. And
itll be 10 more days before I do, as I join
a silent meditation course first. Its meant
to clear my mind, I guess, yet instead feels
like a very boring, hard-core religious cult
version of the Big Brother reality show, and
I mostly spend my next 10 days plotting
an escape plan and wondering how I got
myself into this in the first place.
For more on Matts films and travels, check
out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at
EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog
Hanoi
Day Tripper: Hanoi / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats A / Top Eats B /
Medical Buff
Photo by Julie Vola
Hanoi
Essentials
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH
A-ROAMING
BODYWORKER
gkaren@a-roamingbodyworker.com
a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic

healing modalities. Services
include craniosacral therapy,
deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones
massage, as well as energy
healing including Reiki and
Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops
are also available.
HANOI HOLISTIC
HEALTH GUIDE
issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth
A guide to various holistic

health practitioners in Hanoi.
Only available online, but a
great information source.
M M M
BOOKSHOPS
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has been
around the block quite a bit
and now shares a space with
Hanoi Cooking Centre. With
over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction
titles in stock, the shop also
buys used books and offers
free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP

VIETNAM (BBGV)
193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: (04) 6674 0945
HANOI OIS
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
NETBALL CLUB
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
The chamber of commerce

for all things relating to the
UK and British-born expats
living in the capital. Puts on
monthly networking events,
gala dinners, fundraising
events and much more.
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE
bbgv.org
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1
Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
SINGAPORE BUSINESS
ASSOCIATION VIETNAM
Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
sbav-hanoi.org
M M M
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3726 4896
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee
in return for entrance to a
wide selection of movies,
new and old. The management has an eclectic taste
and shows films and opera
from all over the world. Call
to arrange membership.
TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE
M M M
LIBRAIRIE FRANAISE
DE HANOI
FRENCH BOOKSHOP
VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

(04) 3936 2151
CLUBS & SOCIETIES
XUNHASABA
AMERICAN CLUB
ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
EVENT SPACE
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3825 4068
M M M
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
4th Floor, InterContinental
Hanoi,
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3934 2790
amchamhanoi.com
AUSCHAM
4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai
Ba Trung
Tel: 0909 710994
auschamvn.org

Tel: (04) 3824 1850
GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE
58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh

Tel: (04) 3734 2251
goethe.de/hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL
THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3823 8115
thehanoiclub.com
hanoinetball@gmail.com
LESPACE
(04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
M M M
CLOTHING
BOO SKATESHOP
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
SKATESHOP
THREE TREES
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3923 1147
JEWELLERY
booskateshop.com
CHULA
43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho; 24 Ly
Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0904 258960
chulafashion.com
The work of Spanish couple

Laura and Diego, this homegrown Hanoi brand describes
themselves as creating wearable art. Designing pieces
that are trendy, elegant,
Western and yet distinctly
Asian, their shop and arts
space focuses on lifestyle,
with regular events and
more.
CONTRABAND
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
AIR ASIA
airasia.com
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3928 8725
M M M
AIR FRANCE
airfrance.com.vn
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a

school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,
offering a sense of exclusivity.
AIRLINES
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:

0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese

culinary classes are offered
in these well-appointed and
clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide
you through the secrets of
Vietnamese cooking in an
open air courtyard.
M M M
CRAFTS & FURNITURE
CATHAY PACIFIC
cathaypacific.com/vn
CHINA AIRLINES
china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
jetstar.com/vn/en
KOREAN AIR
koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA
AIRLINES
malaysiaairlines.com
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3718 6233
With new styles arriving in
store every second day, this
shop offers a huge range of
dresses, shirts, pants, skirts
and accessories in local and
imported fabrics. Clothes fit
all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.
Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.
BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks
unusual handicrafts from
around the world as well as
second-hand books, DVDs
and more.
MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES
33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and
made-to-fit clothing.

(04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang
Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and
accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
SINGAPORE
AIRLINES
singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
vietjetair.com
VIETNAM
AIRLINES
vietnamairlines.com
Hanoi
Essentials
several locations around

the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
Tel: (04) 3928 5190
artvietnamgallery.com
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)

3941 2789
Established in 2002, this

American-run gallery has
championed Vietnamese
contemporary art for more
than two decades. Holds
regular exhibitions and artist talks.
Daloc.vn
DONS TAY HO
MANZI
BICYCLE RENTALS
GALLERY & BAR / CAFE
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3719 3719
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3716 3397
Stocks organic vegetables

from Sapa, Soc Son and Dalat; seafood from Hai Phong
and Quang Ninh; Norwegian
salmon and highlands pork
and beef. Also offers foreign
spices and convenience
store products from Japan
and Thailand. Free delivery
for any purchase above
VND400,000.
CYCLING
Dons-bistro.com
facebook.com/manzihanoi
LINHMART
116, D4 Dormitory, Giang Vo,
Ba Dinh (near Ha Noi Hotel)
Tel: 0936 491136 or 0916
504548
linhmart.com
BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS
Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art

centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide
range of art events. Manzi
promotes emerging artists
while presenting established artists from Vietnam.
The space also sells works
by leading contemporary
Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.
70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

0904 244941
NHA SAN COLLECTIVE
KITCHEN ART
GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS
KITCHENWARE
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: 0985 870316

6680 2770
GREEN BIKE
CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST
15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh

IBIKE
SALES
34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly

Nam De, Hoan Kiem
QUANS RENTALS
THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE

COLLECTIVE)
RENTALS & SALES
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
DENTAL CARE
AUSTRALIAN
DENTAL CLINIC
nhasanstudio.org
The first experimental art

space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given
contemporary Vietnamese
artists the chance to nurture
their talent and experiment.
Holds regular exhibitions and
artist residences.
DENTAL CLINIC
VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM
3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: 0906 200434
NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM
australiandentalclinic.com
PEACE DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac

Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2286
peacedentalclinic.wordpress.
com
Packexim Building Tower 1,

23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An
Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
serenitydentalclinic.com
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51

Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3710 0555
The Westcoast International

Dental Clinic is composed
of dental professionals who
deliver modern, high-level
dental services throughout
Vietnam. The clinic provides
the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service
care to patients.
GALLERIES
ART VIETNAM GALLERY
GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE
Hanoigourmet.com
kitchenart.vn
L'S PLACE
A place to work. A space to

create. Somewhere to see
something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the
threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts
and events.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay

Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487
LAN SALON
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190
HOSPITALS
& MEDICAL CLINICS
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC
CLINIC (ACC)
acc.vn/en
ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy

and foot care treatments
through the use of cutting
edge technology for back,
neck and knee pain, sports
injuries as well as all types of
foot related problems.
BUMRUNGRAD
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
NATURALLY VIETNAM
HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK

HOSPITAL
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS
4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc

Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674
4130
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI

(04) 3719 1196
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE

Tel: (04) 3934 3854
VEGGIES
GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

(04) 3719 4630
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718
3701
warehouse-asia.com
HAIRDRESSERS
& SALONS
DA LOC
DINH HAIR SALON
WINE RETAILER
HAIR SALON

Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987

718899
GARDEN
SHOPPING
CENTER
The Manor,
Me Tri Street,
My Dinh, Tu Liem
Tel: (04) 3787 5500
INDOCHINA
PLAZA
241 Xuan Thuy,

Cau Giay, Hanoi,
Tel: 1900 555596
LOTTE CENTER
54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3333 6016
lottecenter.com.vn
PARKSON
bumrungrad.vn
Viet Tower Plaza,

198 Tay Son, Dong Da
Tel: (04) 3537 8666
JAPAN INTERNATIONAL
EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)
229 Tay Son, Dong Da,

Tel: (04) 6682 0400
136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3715 3717
RED APRON
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337
SHOPPING
MALLS
TOP-END SALON
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3719 9911
M M M
ANNAM GOURMET
48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan

Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907
GROCERY SHOP
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY
workroomfour.com
WOMENS HAIRDRESSER
44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (4) 3265 6888
WINE RETAILER
DENTAL CLINIC
JUST.IN.M
6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3943 1009
Maintains and promotes

the treasures of Vietnamese
cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the
entire history of Vietnamese
fine arts.
WORK ROOM FOUR
162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay

Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366
CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS
naturallyvietnam.com
vnfam.vn
UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON
DELI / WINE SHOP
66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3733 2131
SERENITY INTERNATIONAL
DENTAL CLINIC
19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888
HANOI GOURMET
HAIR STREAM
parkson.com.vn
PICO MALL
INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL

32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3715 3666
jieh.vn
JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using

the latest technology and
built according to Japanese
standards, the facility is the
first in Vietnam to use Mel
90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany),
and is one of first three eye
hospitals in the country
using Visumax (Carl Zeiss
- Germany) for refractive
surgery. Top-end customer
service and a friendly, contemporary environment add
to the mix.
FAMILY MEDICAL
PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A
Medium-sized practice with
both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are
SYRENA
SHOPPING
CENTER
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3719 7214
TRANG TIEN
PLAZA
cnr. Hang Bai and

Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi
trangtienplaza.vn
VINCOM
CITY TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba

Trung, Tel: (04) 3974
9999
VINCOM
ROYAL CITY
72A Nguyen Trai,

Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04)
3974 3550
used to treating expats. Also

a 24-hour emergency service.
FRENCH HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:

(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
HONG NGOC HOSPITAL

PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL
55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)

3927 5568; Keangnam Office
Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung,
Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880
hongngochospital.vn
INTERNATIONAL SOS
24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

(04) 3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic

also known for its quality
emergency services. Doctors
and consultants also provide
a range of services from
standard GP-style check-ups
through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.
VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC
KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL
12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel:

(04) 3843 7231
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL
HOSPITAL
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
M M M
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
insuranceinasia.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang
Quoc Viet, Cau Giay
Tel: (04) 3755 7111
libertyinsurance.com.vn
REGENCY INTERNATIONAL
INSURANCE
5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly
Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0966 857 488
M M M
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL, HANOI
Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes
Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bishanoi.com
A selective, independent,
co-educational day school.
Provides a British-style
education following the
National Curriculum for England, with students taking

IGCSE and A Level. Pending
authorization, will offer the
IB programme from 2016
onwards.
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing

schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3832 8140
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available

for students studying at
elementary through to secondary levels of education,
HIS is one of the few private,
international education options in the capital. Offers
Cambridge IGCSE and IB
Diploma for students at the
secondary level.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
OF VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
QSI International School of

Hanoi is next in a long line
of quality schools established by the Quality Schools
International. The institution
specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary
age students.
for its students to emerge as

responsible stewards of our
global society and natural
environment.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601;
Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho,
Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2,
Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4
Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel
(04) 6666 1818
ANH DUNG
HANOI RENTING
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
RENTALS
37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

0915 066096
No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac

Long Quan, Tay Ho
Tel: (04) 6294 4828
Provides an international
education for students from
primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the
Singaporean and Vietnamese
curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all
taught by qualified teachers.
PHUNG MOTORBIKE
kinderworld.net/sis
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
Established in 1988, 1,050

students from 60 nationalities follow the IB
programme from aged 3
through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
& REPAIRS
MR CAO
MOTORBIKE RENTAL
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: 0912 094464
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3938 1105
VIP BIKES SOCIAL
ENTERPRISE
RENTALS & REPAIRS
17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho,

Tel: 0914 931390
Trains disadvantaged youth
to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike
mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.
PROPERTY RENTALS
FAIR REAL ESTATE
RENTALS
6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6332
fair-realestate.com
GIA LONG HOUSING
RENTALS
R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay

Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589
gialonghousing.com
hanoirenting.com
LANLINH PROPERTY
RENTALS
38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: Tel: 0933 534999
houseinhanoi.com
VIETLONG HOUSING
RENTALS
21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3718 5203
vietlonghousing.com
M M M
RELOCATION AGENTS
ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The largest home moving

company in the world, Allied
Pickfords moves over 1,000
families in over 175 countries
every day. Has a full range of
services domestic moves,
isvietnam.org
A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school

serving the international
and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of
any nationality aged 3 and
up. Highly qualified and
experienced international
educators are supported by
a 21st-century campus with
the latest in educational
technology plus excellent
resources for learning. Class
sizes are small.
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN
Unit 9 10, Shophouse CT17,
Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743
0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba
Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04)
3934 7243; C5 C11, 1st floor,
The Manor Building, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with

a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL OF HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
DAY TRIPPER: HANOI

HO QUAN SON
Southwest of Hanoi is a place that is a land

version of Halong Bay. Billy Gray heads out of
town for some well-needed respite
ocated about 50km from Hanoi, Ho

Quan Son, or as some call it, the
inland Halong Bay is a tranquil
retreat from the citys madness.
Centred on a still and unpolluted lake are
jagged mountains and rolling hills covered
with green vegetation, and only interrupted
by occasional family dwellings peering out
of the forest.
We started our journey at 9am and
arrived around 10.30, ready to get
exploring. Entrance to the lake and its vast
surroundings is VND15,000 plus VND5,000
for parking. We parked up our bikes and
headed over a narrow footbridge taking us
to a dirt track between small houses and
toward the lake.
Still in Hanoi
Among the trees we came across a large,
colonial-looking stone house overlooking
the water, and further down the path a
wide open grass plain, perfect for setting
up a picnic.
The setting by the lake is so quiet you

could hear a pin drop, and the still water
reflects the sun and the surrounding
hills, providing the perfect backdrop for
a peaceful day trip and all of this is
technically still part of Hanoi.
With the sun high in the sky and a cool
breeze hovering over the lake, we laid out
a blanket and ate some home-prepared
lunch before taking off back into the
village for a cold glass of sugarcane juice.
Following the road around the hills we
found an old village with pre-colonial style
architecture narrow streets between
grey stone walls, buildings come to life
with multi-coloured flags hanging from
ropes and an imposing church with a
Vatican flag raised upon its steeple.
Conical Hats
Always holding surprises, the villages
around Ho Quan Lake are certainly worth
some time exploring.
We set off after a well-needed, relaxing
day in the fresh air and set our sights on one

last stop before the sun was swallowed up
by the horizon.
Chuong Village is famous for its
production of conical hats worn by many
people in Vietnam and often bought by
tourists as souvenirs. We decided we would
explore the village, which is about half way
between Ho Quan Son and Hanoi.
The village was busy, its main street bustling
with shop fronts on either side. It seems there
was a lot going on there, but unfortunately,
with daylight running low, we were unable
to find the conical hat makers and had to turn
our wheels back towards Hanoi.
Getting There
To get to Ho Quan Son just follow the AH13
southwest of Hanoi. In Ha Dong take the
left-hand fork onto Highway 21B, a branch
of the Ho Chi Minh Highway. Head south
and follow the road for about 30km.
THE ALCHEMIST
THE ALCHEMY OF RESPONSIBILITY
recent environmental disaster,

which resulted in a massive
fish kill-off on the central coast
of Vietnam, had many people
rallying in the streets demanding
protection of the environment.
Shortly after this incident, pictures
circulated on social media showing
beaches littered with trash from weekend
holidaymakers. The irony is stark and it
highlights a disconnect with regard to
social responsibility.
Corporations certainly need to use the
safety of people, animals and the earth as a
guidepost to conducting business, however,
individuals also have a responsibility to
protect one another and the environment.
Gandhis words: Be the change you wish
to see in the world, could not be more
relevant.
Singular Impact
If every individual took responsibility
and ownership for their actions and

lived in harmony with one another and
the environment, we would not have
corporations polluting the planet and
endangering the lives of those who live
upon it. Individuals cannot be exempt from
being socially responsible while they hold
corporations to a higher standard. Every
single person has a role to play in protecting
one another and the environment. We must
not minimize the level of impact one person
can have on the grand scale.
The common man just wants to live in
peace and justice in a clean environment,
Hollywood actor Woody Harrelson once said.
Harrelson advises that it is each
individuals responsibility to step into
their power and make wise decisions that
inform companies and governments of
their desire for a safer, cleaner world. In so
doing, individual consciousness merges
with the collective consciousness to create
positive change.
BY KAREN GAY
Every Individual
Along with their quest to gain insights
into the true nature of reality, Buddhists
also aim to eradicate greed, hatred and
delusion. They strive to be morally
upright in their activities and not act
in ways that would be corrupt or bring
harm to oneself or to others. Cultures
all around the world have similar
teachings; from them we learn that each
individual has the responsibility to
ethically conduct their lives; if they have
challenges, the community is there to
provide support.
As the environmentalist Jane Goodall
once said, Every individual matters.
Every individual has a role to play. Every
individual makes a difference,.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker,
is a holistic health practitioner
practicing in Hanoi. For information
on the types of services provided, visit
a-roamingbodyworker.com
Hanoi
office moves and storage

both inside and outside of
Vietnam.
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS
6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,

JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
Essentials
AGS FOUR WINDS

41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3938 8762
agsfourwinds.com
A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices

globally. Have the capacity to
move property to and from
any location.
MMM
SPORTS, FITNESS
& YOGA
ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

(04) 3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features

top-of-the-line fitness
equipment, separate cardio
and spinning areas and an
indoor swimming pool with
a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural
light make it a welcoming
place to squeeze in a work
out, but be prepared to pay.
This place is top of the range.
N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE
5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi

Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
SANTA FE
RELOCATION SERVICES
Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
STUDIO FIVE
With over 150 offices around

the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation
services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management.
VIETCLIMB
santaferelo.com
YOGA & WELLNESS
5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai

Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515
studio5.vn
with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different

climbing routes within the
gym that are changed every
few months. They offer clinics, classes and childrens
events. Membership and
group rates are available,
but be sure to check out the
three-month pass.
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find,

VietClimb is a French-owned,
200-meter climbing gym
SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

(04) 3923 1147
bosua.vn
HANOI SPORTS SHOP

146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel:
(04) 2218 5757
hanoisport.vn
ZENITH YOGA & CAF

YOGA & NUTRITION
247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly

Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel:
0904 356 561
zenithyogavietnam.com
The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in

Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast
variety of classes and levels
in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa,
Ashtanga and Pilates while
also offering Restorative,
Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga,
Meditation sessions, and
Kundalini classes. Also have
a yogic shop offering incense,
clothes and yoga props, as
well as a caf serving up the
homemade vegetarian meals,
cakes and coffee.
MMM
SPORTSWEAR
& EQUIPMENT
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho,

Tel: 0914 143185
BOO SKATESHOP
SCORE-TECH
44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8246
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport

garments for companies,
schools and professional
sports clubs using the latest
printing technology with a
design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from fabric production and
printing to sewing. Big and
small orders for all sporting
and commercial needs.
UMOVE TRAVEL
AND OUTDOORS
TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
ADIDAS FOOTBALL
FOOTBALL & SPORTS
19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)

6273 3095

(04) 3771 3305
umove.com.vn
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C
222 Tran Duy Hung,
Cau Giay;
Garden Shopping
Centre, The Manor,
My Dinh, Tu Liem
bigc.vn
CITIMART
Ground Floor,
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
FIVIMART
27A Ly Thai To,
Hoan Kiem
INTIMEX
22-23 Le Thai To,
Hoan Kiem
METRO THANG
LONG
Pham Van Dong,
Co Nhue, Tu Liem,
Tel: (04) 3755 1617
metro.com.vn
THE THERAPIST
RAPE
Dear Douglas,
I am writing you about a friend I am
concerned about. Approximately one to
two years ago she was in a relationship
with a guy she claimed to have really
loved. From what she has shared with me,
one day she was forced to have unwanted
sex with him after a date, she unwillingly
gave in fearing she would lose him. Sexual
intercourse continued to happen in the
following few months before the break-up
and from her words she did not enjoy it at
all, saying it hurts and only wanted it to be
over as soon as possible, but put up with it
for the sake of keeping him with her.
She is aware that it was rape after the
eventual break-up, but she seems to blame
herself for not liking sex. After the break-up
she tested herself by sleeping with a guy
she does not like, a friends-with-benefit
relationship, that lasted about a week or
two, concluding that she just does not like
sex and feels no pleasure from sex.
Fast forward until now, it seems that she
is constantly thinking of said boyfriend,
blaming herself for being easy, not
liking sex, feeling the guilt of losing her
purity (she used to believe in keeping
her virginity till marriage), feeling dirty,
with occasional loneliness and that her
best friends (not I) would not understand,
would judge her.
All of these are what I can extract as I am
the only one she shares this story with and
usually she seems cheery, normal, energetic
and seems to be doing okay with her

life. Its only occasionally that she thinks
and talks about these events (weekly,
sometimes twice a week).
Do you think these are symptoms of
Rape Trauma Syndrome? If so, is there a
way for me, as her guy friend, to help her?
I do not think she is aware of her situation,
and would be in denial if I were to mention
seeking professional help. Like I said they
are not very visible as she is normally an
energetic person.
Concerned Friend
Dear Concerned Friend,
I thank you for writing about a topic that
is sadly familiar. You are correct in seeing
that her experience was rape and that she
is now adjusting her life as a result. She is
fortunate to have you as a caring friend
and confidante, but you cannot really be
all the support she needs in order to deal
with what happened to her and how she
is coping. It is not uncommon for someone
who has been raped to blame themselves or
to behave as if nothing happened, creating
a divide between their outer personality
and the hidden pain of the experience.
She is coping, which is a good thing, but
it is not meant to be a permanent way
to deal with the difficulties of life and
ultimately she will need to process what
has happened.
While rape is a violation of ones
sexual autonomy, it is more about power
BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA
than about sex. A person feels the loss of

control over a part of them that is at the
essence of who they are. It is not unusual
for a rape victim to feel confusion about
sexuality, to feel a loss of self-esteem or
self worth, to feel shame or guilt, and
for it to affect their ability to trust and
therefore establish healthy relationships.
All of these things can be understood
and healed over a period of time with
therapeutic support.
You feel your friend is not ready to
address this with a professional, and
you are right to understand that there is
readiness involved. Gentle encouragement
is a better approach than pushing or
anything forceful. You might share with
her some reading material (The Courage to
Heal, by Laura Davis, is a famous book)
and continue to let her know that you are
concerned, and thankful that she has been
willing to trust this with you. Your role
is sensitive, holding the secret without
judgment and helping her to realise that
it is okay to face it more directly with
professional help.
I wish you and her the wellness that
comes from caring, the healing that comes
from facing the truth and moving through
that which is difficult.
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details
will not be printed
Hanoi
On the Town
BARS, CLUBS &

BEER CLUBS
+84 BAR
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR
23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable

sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.
EDEN HANOI
MADAKE
SIDEWALK HANOI
THE UNICORN BAR
OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE
BAR & EVENT SPACE
DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE
COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE
End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
facebook.com/edengargen
When it comes to outdoor

parties, big outdoor parties,
the setting at Eden makes
this place difficult to beat,
with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list.
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:

(04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
A wine bar with a difference,

this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake
mixes contemporary design,
black ceilings, subtle lighting
and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine
lists in town. Not surprisingly
it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,

Tel: 0976 751331
A favourite among those
who roam further west of
the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during
the weekends. Amiable staff,
pleasant vibes.
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3826 6919
Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star
prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great
cocktail selection. The kind
of place youll order a wagyu
and eat it at the bar.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
A small establishment from

the minds behind the party
and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling
onto the sidewalk as well as
a small loft area for lounging.
BACKYARD BIA HOI

UPMARKET BIA HOI
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho

From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway,
garden-based bia hoi is every
bit as attractive (and popular) as its caf peers in the
West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and
regular live music make up
the mix.
BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3734 9134
Set in a colonial villa, when
it comes to design, the funky
but comfortable Barbetta
with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place
for coffee, beer or even a
bite to eat.
CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: 01262 054970
cama-atk.com
With well-poured drinks,

a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing
time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be
and thats refreshing. The
space is a part time venue
for smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the
serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool
and take pulls in a relaxed
haven.
HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE
27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

Tel: 01633 166170
facebook.com/hrc.hanoi
Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and

an upstairs space dedicated
to live music and live production. Weekly live events
feature bands and DJs both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3972 5088
LE SOLEIL
DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT
284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:

0915 663993
facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi
Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen,

especially if youre the dancing-into-the-early hours kind
of person. Sofas, bar stools,
menus on blackboards and
neon-coloured lighting,
theres a grunge-style feel to
the place, but its an ambience that Le Soleils customers seem to love. Has a pizza
joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

(04) 6276 6665
facebook.com/madakehanoi
With a stunning garden

overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed
for its many weekday and
weekend events, its ambient
Asian-style dcor, DJ nights
and general atmosphere. A
popular West Lake go-to joint.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
Theres only one Mao and
theres only one red lounge.
This late-night bar has been
going for years, and despite
its Old Quarter dive status,
it still packs in the drinkers.
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR
51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785
Now located on the river
in between Long Bien and
Chuong Duong Bridges, this
late night, DJ bar is notorious
for well, being Phuc Tan.
Almost every Hanoi-based
reveler has ended up here
at some point. Its just one
of those places.
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
Probably the closest thing
Hanoi has to an authentic
English-style pub, Polite is
frequented by a steady mix
of locals and expats who find
solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool
and live football matches.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE
25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room
Located on the lakeside

lane just below Xuan Dieu,
this warm, quiet and friendly
pub offers a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice
view of West Lake. Serving
pies and pasties from The
Cart, Vietnamese food from
Dieus next door, or delivery
from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

01653 336087
facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock

Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events are
coupled with creative decor, a
selection of Belgian Beer and
a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.
199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi
A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor

setting. Regular DJ nights and
live music add to the great
ambience. Check out their
grill fare. Tasty.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL
12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering
hole popular with expats and
anyone looking for some
good conversation. Cheap
beers, oodles of Jamesons
and often open late. Oh, and
check out the Danish hotdog
stand out front. To die for.
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR
AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE
24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem

tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
THE NEST
VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB
Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay

Ho, Tel: 0947 890333
facebook.com/Nest.
Lounge.09XuanDieu
The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of

bar that will attract expats.
It does. But thanks to the
Vietnamese atmosphere,
theres a nice mix of local
and foreign over the three
floors of lounge seating, DJ
booths and dance areas.
The views here are pretty
eye-catching, too.
THE REPUBLIC
MODERN SPORTS BAR
7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:

0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range
bar and eatery showing
live sport and boasting a
convivial atmosphere. Has
a creative comfort food
menu, excellent breakfasts,
daily specials and a popular
second-floor outdoor terrace.
THE ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B

Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
therooftop.vn
The first up-on-high bar and

restaurant in the capital and
still a leader in its field. With
DJs spinning EDM and great
views of the city, this is a
must for a more Vietnamese,
top-shelf experience.
2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel:

0904 886266
The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender,
Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a
small bar area and an attractive seating space out front.
Now, as for the cocktails
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL

(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
A miniscule sports bar on

the main drag of Xuan Dieu
is perpetually crowded with
regulars drinking out front on
plastic stools. Notorious for
its burgers, cooked fresh to
order, Tracys is also famous
for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi.
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL
2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba

Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922
vuvuzela.com.vn
When Vuvuzela opened up,

mixing the Hooters concept
from the US with a beer hall,
drinking food and a DJ booth,
it created the start of a new
scene beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh
Tong is still going strong, but
its so popular that its best to
book your table in advance.
For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.
CAFES
ANNAM CAFE
DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,

Tay Ho
A trendy, deli-style caf connected to Annam Gourmet
next door. Bright and fresh
dcor is complemented by
shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and
cafeteria-style furniture. An
eye-catching temptation for
weary shoppers.
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3934 1494
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different
western dishes at reasonable
prices. Loaded with booths
and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to
squash a sandwich or bowl
of pasta and people watch.
They also do coffee.
COFFEE BEAN
AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE
28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
This American-style chain

cafe is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking
Westlake. With its LA coffee
BAR STOOL
LA PLUME
ust a stones throw from the

Opera House, the recently opened
La Plume is awash with urban
elegance. Sat on the third floor
of the Press Club Building, it feels a bit
strange to look out of the window and see
the red and green roofs of Hanoi staring
back. Dont worry, you havent been
somehow transported into a bygone era,
though the soft jazz piano and the red
wine in your hand might make you feel
like it.
At the bar, two Western businessmen
sip pho cocktails. Four smartly-dressed
Vietnamese women have tea at a table next
to us. When a fifth woman in sunglasses
and pearls appears, my companion leans
over and whispers excitedly: Shes a very
famous Vietnamese singer! And just like

that, Id made my first celebrity sighting at
La Plume.
Its the kind of place where you can
clink glasses with diplomats, CEOs, and
celebrities. Food and Beverage Director
Dang Thanh Tung even had the pleasure of
serving Samuel L. Jackson during his recent
visit to film in Vietnam.
Since its inauguration in 1997, this
building opposite the Sofitel Metropole
has been a meeting place for movers and
shakers. But it has a more recent legacy
among expats in Hanoi who remember their
regular Friday night parties on the terrace.
Our photographer, Julie, had a flashback,
sitting in the newly remodelled bar space.
The parties here were wild, Julie
remembers. Before renovation began in May

last year, it was just an outside terrace where
the over-30 expat crowd would gather every
month to dance the night away.
Industrialised
But like the people who frequent it, the bar
has matured, too. The infamous roof terrace
has evolved into a sophisticated lounge, with
rugged, industrial touches. The interior was
inspired by Long Bien Bridge, depicted in
two huge murals on the back wall.
Custom-made furniture in soothing
browns and greens surround a large circular
bar, which dominates the space. There are
little touches, too; all the tables have been
subtly engraved with quotes in various
languages by journalists and writers, a nod
to the Press Clubs history as a meeting place

for media professionals.
The cocktail menu was designed mostly
by mixologist Pham Tien Tiep. His drinks
dont just taste good; theyre inspired by
stories from Vietnams culture and history.
Hes best known for his famous pho cocktail,
which he invented next door at Angelina, the
bar in the Metropole, where Joan Baez sang
to guests in a bunker during the Christmas
raid of 1972. The warmth of her voice is
represented by spices like cinnamon and
chilli, and the cocktails fiery flare recalls the
intensity of the bombs.
We tried three more of La Plumes
colourful creations. The Com cocktail,
created by Ba Ly, is a striking bright green,
with a rice stalk garnish. Rum and Cointreau
create a boozy base for honey, green apple,

and a somewhat earthy young rice syrup,
while tart orange balances the drink with
citrus notes.
Kick Off
Red Shoes is a drink for gin lovers who
prefer the sweetness of fruits like apricot
and raspberry, with a kick in the form of
candied ginger. But perhaps my favourite of
the three was the Home cocktail, vodkabased with black tea and starfruit creating a
quintessentially Vietnamese flavour palette.
The bar also offers bistro-style lunch and
dinner, and a well-rounded menu of small
plates and bar snacks, like smoked salmon
sliders, goat cheese crostini, and grilled
Japanese scallops.
My advice is to get started early on the

cocktails; happy hour will get you two-forones from 6pm to 8pm. As the sun sinks, the
evening at La Plume gets into full swing.
Wednesday night is reserved for jazz. An
acoustic band sets up in the corner every
Friday night at 8.30 to entertain the afterwork crowd, and gives way to tropical house
and trance at the weekend.
So grab your nearest friend, don your
swankiest outfit, and head to La Plume for
a cigar and a bottle of wine. If youre lucky,
maybe youll meet a celebrity or two.
Jesse Meadows
La Plume can be found at 12 Ly Dao Thanh,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi at the corner of 59A Ly Thai
To. For more information about their events and
promotions, visit facebook.com/laplumebarlounge
COFFEE CUP
LISSOM PARLOUR
ne step inside the Lissom Parlour,

I am transported to a world of
tranquillity, leaving behind the
non-stop commotion of the coffee
street of Nguyen Huu Huan. A closer look
reveals not a typical coffee shop, but more
like the living room Id love to own, had I
been endowed with such good taste.
A room for the reception and
entertainment of visitors is exactly what
Tran Linh had in mind when she opened
and named her caf the Lissom Parlour,
where her interior design studies in
Australia are put to good use in creating
the elegant interior of the parlour and its
beautifully crafted cakes. Employing dark
tones for its wall and furniture together
with soft lighting, the Lissom Parlour goes

against the trend of ubiquitous design
coffee houses in town, hoping its classy and
quiet vibe will appeal to a more mature and
sophisticated clientele.
Coffee and a Slice

Originally planned to be a bespoke cake
studio, the Lissom Parlours cakes live
up to its aspirations. While some cakes are
only made to order due to their finicky
nature, there are plenty to choose from the
regular menu, from Black Forest gateau
and coconut cake to tiramisu and New
York cheesecake. One of the most ordered
cakes, also my favourite, is the sublime
espresso roll cake (VND65,000 / slice). Its
perfect texture is not something you can

only find here, but the generous topping
of caramelised almonds that perfectly
balances the creamy mocha frosting is a
clear example of Linhs refined taste and
the meticulous efforts that set the Lissom
Parlour apart from its peers.
Like most cafs in town, the Lissom
Parlour offers both Vietnamese and
Italian-style coffee. VND65,000 for a black
coffee (ca phe den) or VND80,000 for a
cappuccino is definitely much more than
what you typically pay for your caffeine
fix in Hanoi, reflecting the higher end the
shop positions itself in. As a tea person, I
am fascinated by the extensive selection of
tea from Jasmine Gold to Vanilla Rooibos
from the renowned German luxury

brand Ronnefeldt that is also supplied
to international hotels, including Burj Al
Arab in Dubai. I ordered my usual cup of
Earl Grey (VND75,000) and was presented
with a small tray of a tea cup, a small pot
of orange and honey jam to go with the
bergamot-flavoured tea, and a cute mini
cupcake on the house.
Something For Everyone

There are multiple seating options to suit
different needs; high tables for computer
users, round coffee tables naturally lit with
a skylight for a good read during the day,
and a raised area at the back where you
can relax on a comfy sofa and cushions
or catch up with friends. The whole caf

is strictly non-smoking (except for a few
seats outdoors) and thus scores even more
points with people suffering, like me, from
allergies to cigarette smoke.
To beat the summer heat, the Lissom
Parlour has created an additional summer
drinks menu (VND80,000). My favourite
is Cocoberry which, as its name suggests,
is an exquisitely presented and equally
tasty concoction of coconut juice and the
mulberry fruits that are only in season
for three to four weeks in April. When
I expressed my impatience to wait until
next year, Linh assured me that she has
preserved enough mulberries to quench
our thirst all summer.
Everything at the Lissom Parlour exudes

class and elegance. Its free pandan tea is
unquestionably way tastier than the plain
water or lacklustre iced tea served up
in most cafs. Its presentable and wellmannered staff speak volumes about the
high standards it holds itself to.
Every trip to the Lissom Parlour is an
occasion for me to slow down and savour
the finer things in life. The whole experience
will set you back two to three times more
than your average coffee expenses. But there
is nothing average about this gem in the caf
scene of Hanoi. And its worth every dong.
Tran Cam Thu
Lissom Parlour is at 68 Nguyen Huu Huan,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Hanoi
On the Town
and office feel, when you

walk in you might just forget
that youre in Hanoi.
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba

Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba
Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem;
15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
congcaphe.com
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this

quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one of
the many different types of
tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the
Spartan cups in one of the
hippest caf chains in town.
DALICE
BOUTIQUE CAFE
89 Trieu Viet Vuong,

Hai Ba Trung
Put together coffee and cake
and you get one of those
timeless combinations. And
if you really want to binge on
the cake-end, then check out
dAlice and its quirky interior.
Perfect for that more modern
combination of sweet tooth
and iThingy.
DUY TRI
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,

Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
and pan-Asian mains.
With numerous locations

around town, what originally
started as a fourth-floor joint
overlooking the lake has
become one of the most
popular, home-grown cafes
in Vietnam.
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
highlandscoffee.com.vn
JOMA
COFFEE/BAKERY

Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To
Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6071
joma.biz
Popular caf with a contemporary western feel to

the counter-style service
and atmosphere. The food
is all there, too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes 2
percent of each sale to charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3825 0216
One of the longest-running
cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills caf-cumrestaurant home-makes its
patisseries and is renowned
for its excellent yoghurt.
HANOI COOKING
CENTRE CAF
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
This spacious spot on Food
Street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired
comfort food along with more
eclectic Irish nachos, cottage
pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the
no-smoking downstairs space
is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, especially
late at night.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE

Tel: (04) 3933 2355
This cafe and French-style
boulangerie is best visited
in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery
aroma hits you as you walk
through the door. The downstairs space is split into the
bakery on one side with a
small non-smoking dining
space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa
seating. Simple but tasty
French and international
fare is served at meal times.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR
VIETNAMESE CAF
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

The longest-running caf in
the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is
simplicity at its finest. Even
the coffee here sticks to its
roots its made using the
same blend of Arabica and
Robusta cooked up by its
founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.
PUKU
MANZI ARTSPACE
ARTS CAF & GALLERY
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3716 3397
Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai,

Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events

space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed in
a converted colonial-era villa, a
continuous flow of exhibitions,
talks, experimental music and
game shows make up the mix
here. Great cuisine, too.
Cloistered among the back

streets of West Lake and
sheltered from the noise of
Xuan Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is
a destination for those who
appreciate lifes pleasures:
coffee, food, art and music.
Simple and unpretentious,
the caf has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel
combined with unique and
inspiring art installations.
MAISON DE TET DCOR
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
LIFESTYLE CAFE
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub
facebook.com/manzihanoi
COURTYARD CAFE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh

Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a
covered roof terrace with a
Vietnamese ca phe, Italian
coffee, beer, wine or freshly
squeezed juice. Order from a
seasonally changing menu or
try one of the all-day breakfast
specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.
HANOI HOUSE
HIDEAWAY CAFE
2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su,

Hoan Kiem
Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this
hidden away family house
caf is one of those gems
synonymous with Hanoi.
Quiet, intimate and simple,
the staff will treat you like
youre a guest in their home.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village,

Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722
On-site coffee roasting,
comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and dcor, and a focus
on healthy, non-processed
foods. This is the concept
behind Maison de Tet Dcor,
and its a popular one, too,
as witnessed by the size of
the clientele. Also run occasional farmers markets.
6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3938 2117
A cozy midsize caf/restaurant where you can forget

the heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and here you can imagine,
for a second, that youre
sitting in a European caf.
The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has
an excellent top-floor terrace.
MOC CAFE
YOLO
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

(04) 3825 6334
Set in a slightly run down
colonial villa, the faded but
charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops
Boasting an abundance of
communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances,
this rollicking caf-slash-bar
has quickly earned a place in
the hearts of Hanois young
and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly
quirky, its endearing use of

recycled furniture antiques
and colourful artwork create
a vibrant atmosphere
make for a popular hangout.
Open 24 hours.
ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN
247 Au Co, Tay Ho,

Tel: 0904 356561
zenithyogavietnam.com
A vegetarian and vegan cafe

respecting the philosophy of
yoga simple living, mindful
thinking. Using 100 percent
natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked
using the minimal amount
of oil. The stress is instead
on eating whole food in its
natural state.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
AMATO
TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE
1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

01227 367470
Located next to Binh Minh
Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion
tapas bar by night and a
French restaurant during the
day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers
an international dining and
drinking experience in the
heart of Hanoi.
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
A Brazilian churrascaria
offering all-you-can-eat
grilled meat and seafood on
the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodzio fashion, waiters
bring cuts of meat to the
table for patrons to pick and
choose, all for a set price.
They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la
carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas.
ASAHI SUSHI
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3821 5342
Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall
caf and restaurant that
has served up up a Western
menu since the late 1990s.
Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed
down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.
CHOPS
GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

6292 1044
chopsvietnam.com
Finally Hanoi has a dedicated

gourmet burger joint, and
this West Lake eatery with its
fan-cooled atmosphere get it
just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served
up with locally brewed craft
beer, and this ones a bit of
a winner.
COUSINS
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho,

Tel: 01238 670098
facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine

at reasonable prices in a
spacious, airy atmosphere.
Blackboards, whitewashed,
bare-brick walls, period tiles,
a well-chosen wine list and an
outdoor terrace overlooking
the lake make up the formula.
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai

Mai, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 6317
This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to
the famed lawn chair and
coconut caf on West Lake
has all the right ingredients
to become a classic. Run by
the long time former manager of Luna DAutunno, it
features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from
VND120,000 and other Italian
delicacies. Open every day
for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese

in the Xuan Dieu area on
West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining
with a classy, Middle-Eastern
twist, as well as wine, tapas,
events and attractive dcor.
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH
AMERICAN
16 Quang An, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
This lake-facing venue with

its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian
restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done
well, the main restaurant
menu includes anything from
wood-grilled rare tuna steak
with fragrant Chinese black
bean beurre noir to gourmet
pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an
extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

(04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
With venues in Saigon and

Bangkok, the essence of El
Gaucho is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay the USDA
cuts are to die for but
everything from chicken,
pork and seafood is also up
for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low,
subtle lighting, an extensive
wine list and slick service.
Theres a reason El Gaucho is
so successful everythings
being taken care of.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3716 2959
foodshop45.com
Lakeside location and low

bamboo seating, this eatery
is one of the most popular
Indians in town. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.
FRENCH GRILL
up an enticing mix of classic

and contemporary French
cuisine, blended in with
Vietnamese ingredients and
cooking styles, the resultant
fare has had customers coming back again and again. A
traditional Vietnamese and
kids menu is also available,
as is a wine list focusing
mainly on French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat
Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3771 6372
The home of Son Tinh liquor,
Highway 4 is also known for
its communal dining and
ethnic food menu taking in
dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam.
Try out their catfish spring
rolls. Phenomenal!
INDIA PALACE
facebook.com/frenchgrill
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in

wine cooler and a delectable
seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service
experience with crafted food
difficult to find in the capital.
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you
as you walk into this French
era-built villa that houses the
main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving
An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus
on steak. Has three floors all
with different vibes, the kind
of slick service youd expect
from the Al Frescos Group
and an extensive wine list.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba

Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
Recently refurbished, the

Australian-influenced Jaspas
is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. Popular with both
the western and Asian expat communities who come
back again and again. The
comprehensive menu is a
fusion of western and Asian
cooking. The cocktails come
large and the wine is mainly
New World.
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho

Tel: 01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from the

ashes, so India Palace has
once again returned to Tay Ho,
this time on the strip between
Dons and The Warehouse.
Tasty North Indian fare in a
pleasant environment from
the team behind Tandoor.
TOP-END GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc

Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem,
Tel: (04) 3833 5588
alfrescogroup.com
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3758 2400
One of the larger and more
comfortable bars in Hanoi,
J.A.F.A. is a great place for
drinking cocktails by the
pool. The beverages are not
the cheapest, but this is
made up for by service and
ambiance. They also have a
full menu featuring familiar
western dishes such as pizza
and cheeseburgers and cater
for large parties or dinner
functions. Periodic buffets and
drink specials are also offered.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3938 8388
KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR
59 Van Mieu, Dong Da,

Tel: (04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
The restaurant arm of Koto,

an F&B training school for
disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European
cuisine is served over four big
floors of restaurant space. Its
cushioned, comfortable and
has a rooftop terrace, too.
Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo
Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken
Kievs and sandwiches all
under one homely roof.
KY Y
labadiane-hanoi.com
On entering La Badiane, you

are instantly caught by the
multitude aromas coming
from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf
plants, and predominantly
white walls, the customer is
struck by this venues calm
and elegance. Although the
dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great
attention is also paid to the
ambience so you can enjoy
every aspect of your meal.
Voted one of Miele Guides
Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.
namese-French fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15

Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
The Metropoles signature
restaurant serving up both
classic and contemporary
French fare. Buffet options
mix with an a la carte menu
and an ambience that could
be straight out of Paris.
LINGUINI FINI
ITALIAN-AMERICAN
LA BICICLETA
BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is

the only eatery where it is
authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as
well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto
de Verano, carajillos and
sangria. Also known for its
moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.
36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3266 8968
linguinifini.com/en/hanoi
With branches in Hong Kong

and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini
Fini pulls no punches with
its first outlet in Vietnam.
Sleek modern dcor, high
quality cuisine, home-made
pasta, reasonable prices and
dishes cooked up with the
freshest ingredients available
are part of the deal, as are
some damn fine pizzas.
LUNA DAUTUNNO
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3942 4509
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3826 6288
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Boasts an extensive
wine list and a traditional
wood fire oven.
MING PALACE
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,

Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
A fine dining destination
at the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
CLASSIC ITALIAN
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3995 0950
lasalsa-hanoi.com
A small but eternally popular

Spanish-themed caf and bar
with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses
such as veal, and duck with
currant sauce. Known for its
good, European-style coffee
and first-floor terrace area
with views over the cathedral.
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823

7338
lunadautunno.vn
This old-favourite Italian

uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses. Has regular
live music and a great Italian wine list.
JAPANESE RICE EATERY
166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba

Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
Not to be mistake for a sushi
joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese
working persons rice eatery.
Has a bar area downstairs
and booth-like seating on
the upper floors.
dim sum menus and set

menus. Reservations recommended.
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
MAY MAN CHINESE

CUISINE
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,

Tel: (04) 3944 6317
PAN-CHINESE
Situated in an art-deco villa,

this establishment is run by
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle
Vietnamese touches on the
dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class
customers with quality Viet-
fortuna.vn
verticale-hanoi.com
MILLENIUM-CAF DES
ARTS
PAN-FRENCH
11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3828 7207
cafe-des-arts.com
A contemporary and chic

three-storey restaurant with
a terrace and views over one
of Hanois best-known alleys.
Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras,
lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini.
Does an excellent set menu
and also has a daily specials
board.
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,

Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
MOOSE AND ROO
Elegant and luxurious, May

Man has long been regarded
as one of the best Chinese
restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with
dim sum, May Man boasts
extensive a la carte menus,
42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,

Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together
with a nice bar area. Best
known for their Scotch egg,
poutine and burgers. Clever
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN
RESTAURANT
TOP EATS
LA TABLE DU CHEF
new eatery has opened in the

Press Club Building featuring a
menu by two-star Michelin chef
Alain Dutournier. With over 40
years of experience in the French culinary
world, Chef Dutournier has branched out
of France for the first time with La Table
Du Chef, looking to bring his brand of
haute French cuisine to Hanoi.
The concept honours artistic minds who
express themselves with their handiwork.
We want to reveal the value of the human
hand, says F&B director Dang Thanh
Tung. La Table Du Chefs vision of the
hand as a printer for the creative mind
is evident in the restaurants attention to

personal touches.
The citys upper crust have been hosted
in the various F&B outlets in this central
location for almost two decades, from
its beginnings as a meeting point for
journalists to exchange news and relax
after long days of correspondence. Small
details dotted about La Table Du Chef pay
homage to this history, with plates adorned
by typography, tables engraved with quotes
by writers of old, and Hermes wallpaper
that evokes the feeling of an old study.
Other subtle details are embedded into the
interior, giving guests the opportunity to
look closer and hunt for traces left by the

human hand.
Curators
Luscious wood glints in the French colonial
buildings soft light. A tasteful collection of
contemporary Vietnamese paintings adorns
the walls. Together they make the decors
warm tones comforting and sexy all at once,
setting the scene for a fancy business lunch
or a romantic date. The 70-seat continental
restaurant is also fitted with two private
rooms to host special dinners.
Though prices here are top end, La Table
Du Chef has recently rolled out an affordable
option in the form of their new Temptation

menu, a set meal of starter, main and dessert
at VND520,000++. Combined with a wine
cellar that boasts over 450 varieties of red
and white, youve got a recipe for class.
We started with the smoked salmon, stuffed
with a light, crunchy egg salad, topped with
delicate fish roe and a side of bright yellow
and green lemon bubbles that lend a tartness
to the rich salmon dish. These bubbles are
created by mixing lemon with flour, and
dropping the concoction into cold water,
where they consolidate into soft little spheres
of flavour. A small green salad topped with
edible purple pansies adds a dainty touch.
A la Rossini
For the main, we had the beef tenderloin,
served in a Rossini style, named in honour
of the famous Italian composer. The juicy
cut of meat is nestled between a buttery slice
of pan-fried foie gras from Landes, garnished
with slices of black truffle from Perigord,
and a celery confit topped with broccoli
semolina. A decadent truffle coulis ties the
dish together.
Rounding out the meal, we finished with
a light dessert that was nothing short of a
work of art. White chocolate parfait forms
the base for layers of crispy sweet wafer and
fresh Dalat strawberries, carefully placed
in a manner that can only be described as

statuesque. A sweet red emulsion is drizzled
artfully across the plate. The top of this
confection tower holds a fragile dome of
glass-like bubbles to complete the aesthetics
of the dish. It the kind of beautiful dessert
that almost makes you feel bad to sink a
spoon into.
Open daily for lunch and dinner, La
Table Du Chef is a place to treat yourself.
Jesse Meadows
La Table Du Chef can be found on the third
floor of the Press Club building, 12 Ly Dao
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at facebook.
com/latableduchefrestaurant
TOP EATS
CUTISUN
wner and executive chef Hoang

Nguyen opened Cutisun just
over three years ago. Since that
time, it has expanded from a
modest single-room diner to having
five dining rooms spread across two
restaurants opposite to each other. The
name, incidentally, comes from Hoangs
childhood moniker cu ti sun refers to
a small boy whose teeth have gone black
from too much candy.
I love France, and French food,
explains Hoang, describing how his joy for
cooking translated into lovingly prepared
meals for his friends and family even while
he was still working as a journalist.

The French style of cooking steak is
better, he says. But in Vietnam, its not
so easy Vietnamese people are scared of
thick steaks of undercooked meat.
Its this appreciation for French cuisine
and understanding of Vietnamese tastes
that creates Cutisuns signature fusion. The
dcor, for example, is intended to combine
French style with that of a traditional
Vietnamese house. So many houses in
Vietnam were built by the French, says
Hoang. But this is still Vietnam.
This fusion is most evident in Cutisuns
greatest appeal; the value. By using local
ingredients and local chefs trained by Hoang

himself, Cutisun is able to provide delicious
meals for even the most thrifty of carnivores.
The Vietnamese-style beefsteak (VND70,000)
comes with crispy fries, a small side salad,
steak sauce of your choice and a warm bread
roll. Add to that a glass of chilled house wine
(VND28,000) and your entire meal has cost
less than five dollars.
Saucy
Fortunately, however, the devils in the details,
and the details are delicious. Almost any part
of the meal could be elevated to centrepiece
status, so lets start with the sauces.
The pepper sauce is the best, suggests

Hoang as we consider our order, because
its the most French.
Ive also enjoyed the BBQ and creamy
cheese sauces on previous visits, and feel
theyre equally delectable. The rainbow of
sauces continues with the various side salads
(VND25,000). The slightly sour balsamic
vinaigrette feels the most French, the
decadently rich mulberry feels the naughtiest,
while the sweet and bitter passion fruit sauce
finds balance in the middle.
As our French photographer was
glazed over in a trance-like state recalling
the tastes of Marseilles, she nodded her
approval as Hoang informed us that

Cutisun only serves homemade bread. It
arrives at the table included with every
order of meat, a soft warm roll that has the
side effect of inducing a deep meditative
nostalgia if inhaled too deeply.
The beef used in the Vietnamese
beefsteak option is rump steak, and retains
enough tenderness despite the noticeable
lack of real steak knives. Only the leanest
cuts of local meat are used to ensure the
quality stays high while the price stays low.
The menu includes other options,
although Hoang is keen to emphasise that
they are exactly that.
The beef is the best, he says, but we

had to include other options after some
customers complained about us only
serving steak.
BBQ pork ribs (VND75,000) and a lamb
rack (VND150,000) are the best examples
of those options, and you can even find
spaghetti dishes of Bolognese (VND55,000)
and carbonara (VND62,000) which are
perfect for children or as indulgent side
dishes. Edward Dalton
Cutisun is located at 120 Hoang Hoa
Tham, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Bookings and delivery
available on 0915 008448. Open daily from
10am to 9.30pm
MEDICAL BUFF
NOT JUST A BROKEN HEART
BY DR MICHAEL SANTOS
student turned traveller

turned up at the FMP clinic
on Saturday night at 10.45pm
with pains across the chest
and an uncomfortable heartbeat; hed
spent the day with friends walking the
streets of Hanoi looking at some of the
old buildings and having great fun. He
told the staff hed had a few late nights
with friends drinking the local beers
and enjoying the new tasty food. He was
having a really great time; but now he
felt strange with pains and dizziness.
Welcome to Holiday Heart

Syndrome
You are on holiday, first time in Asia
and there are always lots of reasons to
celebrate and enjoy the holiday spirit.
Unfortunately, it is often a time in
which many people end up going to the
emergency department because of too
much holiday in the heart. We often see
patients presenting themselves with atrial
fibrillation or a very rapid abnormal
heart rhythm in the upper heart chambers
associated with symptoms of palpitations,
shortness of breath, chest pain, lightheadedness, stroke and heart failure.
Factors & Causes?

The honest answer is we dont fully know.
Dehydration; change of temperature,
new food, food additives, coffee, alcohol,
MSG and tiredness are just the start of the
contributing factors.
Several factors may contribute to
Holiday Heart syndrome.
Over-Eating. Eating a large amount
of food at one sitting causes the stomach
and bowels to stretch and distend to
accommodate it. This activates the
nervous system in our body called the
vagal or parasympathetic nervous system
we use to digest food, rest and sleep. This
nervous system, when activated, typically
slows the heart rate. However, in people
susceptible to atrial fibrillation, small
areas in the upper chambers of the heart
are actually triggered and beat very fast,
leading to the abnormal heart rhythm.
These areas often reside in the small veins
that drain blood from the lungs into the
left upper heart chamber.
Salt Consumption: Our bodies need
salt, but when we consume a lot of salt
our bodies can retain fluid and our blood
pressure can rise. In people with a history
of high blood pressure, heart valve
problems, or heart failure, the increase
in blood pressure and higher amount of
fluid in the body stretches the upper heart

chambers, and atrial fibrillation develops.
MSG & Food Additives: Sensitivity to
particular food additives can also give
you reactions like hives or diarrhoea.
This doesnt mean all foods containing
additives need to be automatically
treated with suspicion, as foods with
naturally occurring chemicals can also
cause issues. Many food additives
occur naturally within foods people eat
every day; for example, MSG is found
naturally in Parmesan cheese, sardines
and tomato. People with food allergies
and intolerances are also often sensitive
to chemicals found naturally in certain
foods, such as nuts or shellfish.
Everyday foods that contain natural
MSG or glutamate include: corn, green
peas, grapes, grape juice, mushrooms,
Parmesan, Roquefort, tomatoes and
tomato juice.
How to stay safe?

If you have a history of heart symptoms,
go to the hospital early. Take everything

in moderation and avoid excess. Try to
minimize eating large quantities of food
at once. Avoid adding salt to your diet
and finally, if you know someone who is
depressed, alone, or isolated during the
holiday season, reach out and cheer them
up, it may be the best thing you do for them.
But there are worse things to fear than
food additives.
In Asia many people view food
additives as a major food threat.
However, in terms of health risk, food
additives come in at the end of the line,
after food-borne microorganisms (like
salmonella), inappropriate hygiene
and eating habits, environmental
contaminants and naturally occurring
toxins.
Dr Michael Santos is a general practitioner
at Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For
information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748
(Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City)
or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively,
click on vietnammedicalpractice.com
Hanoi
On the Town
changing imagery on the walls.

MOOSE AND ROO
SMOKEHOUSE
AMERICAN GRILL
The American Club, 19-21 Hai

Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3939 2470
mooseandroo.com
Theres a reason for Smokehouses

popularity the excellent, on-site
smoked meats together with all
the typical, American-style sides.
Set in the American Club, dining is
both indoors and out, and comes
with the best bourbon selection
in town.
NAMASTE HANOI
PANE E VINO
THE KAFE
PAN-ITALIAN
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE
facebook.com/panevinoHN
thekafe.vn
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3826 9080
Just a stroll away from the Hanoi
Opera House, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food and has
done for as long as anyone can
remember. Renowned for the
highly rated, oven fresh pizzas
and large variety of pasta and
salad dishes look forward to
fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff and
a loveable owner.
PIZZA 4PS
namastehanoi.com
The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern

and southern India using Halal
meat throughout. Hosted by the
gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost
you between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything is
there, from curries and breads
to soups and desserts.
NAN N KABAB
Tel: 0922 087799
Specialising in Pakistani cuisine
and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo
tabled, laid back eatery also sells
fare from Afganistan and India.
In a sentence? Curry, but not as
you know it.
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,

Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
Named after the completion

date of the Hanoi Opera House,
this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of
elegance, luxury and mystery.
The cuisine mixes international
fare with twists on Vietnamese
cuisine and comes complete with
a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3747 8337
hanoixua.vn/en
Gordon Ramsay once filmed

a show at this restaurant in a
renovated French villa and now
the ribs carry his namesake. But
its the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls
and miniature vegetarian banh
xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the
train tracks a standout.
WANNAWAFFLE
WAFFLES
VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK
20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh

BUN BO NAM BO
BUN BO NAM BO
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

BUN CHA DAC KIM
BUN CHA
1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67

Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem
KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)
COM RANG DUA BO
pizza4ps.com
MIXED GLASS NOODLES
POTS N PANS
Waffles, but not as you know it.

Here its about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a
contemporary environment in as
many ways as is humanly possible. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed
with cream cheese and smoked
salmon? How about a banoffee
pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations
and much more.
WRAP & ROLL
5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
PHO CUON HUNG BEN
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

01208 034444
Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired
pizzas that break all the rules,
the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4Ps is
as popular as its Saigon branch, a
restaurant that has been greeted
by accolades by all asunder. All
pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local
ingredients.
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel:

(04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from

Hanois own KOTO, this unique
fine dining restaurant, bar and
lounge blends the old with the
new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine,
like profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private chefs
table with a kitchen view, and
an extensive wine list combined
with modern formal styling bring
a unique experience to Hanoi.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)

3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning

when that Gallic, fresh-cooked
aroma of bread, croissants and
patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. The downstairs
space is split into the bakery
on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the
other. The upstairs lounge area
has standard tables as well as
sofa seating. Simple French and
international fare is served at
meal times.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF
OLD HANOI
Spacious, casual, energetic and

beautifully designed, The KAfe
serves up unfussy comfort food
that aims to satisfy the modern
urban diner. Preparing fresh food
and drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours
from around the globe, this caf-cum-restaurant is a popular
choice for Hanois metrosexual
community.
BIT TET NGON SO 5
27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem;

138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung; Unit 108, Indochina Plaza,
241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay
JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi,

Tel: (04) 3935 2400
18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:

(04) 3747 6245
25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem
8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
Small cozy caf and sandwich

bar hidden away in Nghi Tam
Village. Serves and delivers tasty
baguettes, homemade juices,
quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.
The delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
facebook.com/wannawaffle
57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da

MIEN TRON HANH
7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
MY VAN THAN
WONTON NOODLES
54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem

PHO BO CU CHIEU
PHO BO
48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem
PHO CUON
26 Nguyen Khac Hieu,

Ba Dinh
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and bright

pastel colours of Wrap n Roll are
just part of the theme of this
homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi the
second in Royal City.
ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT
HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN
247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904

356561
zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe
A vegetarian and vegan caf

connected to Zenith Yoga that
respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and
100 percent natural ingredients,
all the food here is served up
without additional additives or
MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are
made in house.
STREETFOOD
PHO GA BA LAM
PHO GA
7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem

PHO GA HANG DIEU
PHO GA
1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN
PHO BO
49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem

PHO LY QUOC SU
PHO BO
10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem

PHO THIN LO DUC
SAUTEED BEEF PHO
13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung

PHO TRON
MIXED PHO
5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma

May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom,
Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can,
Hoan Kiem
3 CHI EM
PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM
18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
PHO TU LUN
PHO BO
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

BANH CUON HANG GA
BANH CUON
14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem
XOI HANG HOM

STICKY RICE
44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem

BANH DA TRON
BANH DA TRON
6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

BANH MI 25
STREETSIDE BANH MI
hieu
Nh a
tC
LAC L
ONG Q
UAN
o
Ve H
UA
N
NG
Q
LO
LA
C
hP
huc
BUOI
DUONG
V in
O
VAN C
A
Doc Ngu
Phung Chi Kien
Nguyen Dinh Hoan
KIM MA
LA
TH
m
P ha
Huy
T ho
Bao
Van Phuc
Ngoc Khanh
Bus Station
ng
Nguyen Cong Hoan
AN
H
La Than
h
gH
a
ng
Chua La
Lan
WINTER CLOTHINGS
Hang Da D4
Thuy Le
Lake
V an
LIQUORS
Nha Tho D4
TAN
WEDDING SERVICES
Hang Than C4
GIAY
e Binh
Doi Can
LIEU G
IA
LACQUERS
Can Go D4, D5
Thuy Le
Park
C AU
DAO
Phan
K
THA
NH
TOYS
Luong Van Can D4
Ven Ho
TH
AM
Kim Ma Thuo
uong
ang
FLOWERS
Quang An Market A3
Kh
an
hT
oa
HO
A
an
Doi Can
Linh L
SWEETS
Hang Buom D4
en
Nguyen Van Ngoc
FASHION STORES
Hang Dao D4
uy
CHI
STATIONERY
Hang Can D4
Ng
YEN
EVERYTHING
Dong Xuan Market C4
NG
an
Dong Quan
NGU
SPORTSWEAR
Hang Dau D5
CAU
GIAY
GIA
AY
HO
A
Doi Nhan
Quan Hoa
CRAFTS
Hang Trong D4
UOI
SILVERS
Hang Bac D4
hi
HOANG QUOC VIET
GB
COOKING INGREDIENTS
Tay Ho Weekend Market A2
Vo
ng
T
Sai
Th
uy
Kh
ue
DUO
N
SILKS
Hang Gai D4
Trich
am
COMPUTERS
Ly Nam De D4
an
Ho
a
SECONDHAND SHOES
Nguyen Khanh Toan D1
Dam Tr
an
gH
COBBERS
Hang Dong D4
TU
LIEM
Qu
PLANTS
Hoang Hoa Tham C1, C2
Qu
CERAMICS
Hang Khoai C4
ang
Ton
Ngoc Khanh
MOBILE PHONES
Dang Dung C4
n Ho
Sai
BEDDINGS
Hang Dieu D4
Ngu
ye
h
Tric
MECHANICS
Hang Chao D3
ng
Nguyen Ho
BAMBOO
Hang Vai D4
C4
D1
E5
D4, E4
C3, C4
E5
D1
C4
C5, D5
C4
C1
D4
C1, D1
D4, E4
C3
B2
A2
E4
D3
B4
B4
D3
D4
C4
A2
E1, E2
C3
D4, E4
D4
C2, C3
A2
D3, E3
D5
D4
E4
E4, E5
D2
E5
D5
D4, D3
C4, D5
E4
C3
D4
E5
B1, C2
D3
C4
B3
D2
C2
D3
D2
A1
C2, C3
D5
B1
D3, D2
A3
A1
C4
B3, C4
E4
La
E4
B4
B3
D3
C4
A3
D4
E4
D5, E5
E5
D5
D4
A2, B2
D3
D4, D3
D2
D3
E5
D1
D5, D4
C4
E1
D3
D5
E5
C4
C4
D4
E4
C4
C3
B2
E5
D3
D1
D4, D3
D2
D5
D4
D5, D4
D3
A5
D3
D3, D2
C1
C4, D4
D1, C1
D1
D4
C4
D5, D4
D3
D3, D2
D4, E4, E5
E4
D5
D4
D4
E4, E5
D5
D4
C4
D4
D4
C4
D4
D4
C4, D5
D4
D4
D4
D4
D4
C4
C4, D4
D4
D5
D4
D4
C4
D5
D5
Pham Hong Thai

Pham Huy Thong
Pham Su Manh
Phan Boi Chau
Phan Dinh Phung
Phan Huy Chu
Phan Ke Binh
Pho Duc Chinh
Phuc Tan
Phuc Xa
Phung Chi Kien
Phung Hung
Quan Hoa
Quan Su
Quan Thanh
Quang An
Quang Ba
Quang Trung
Quoc Tu Giam
So 1
So 9
Son Tay
Ta Hien
Tan Ap
Tay Ho
Thanh Cong
Thanh Nien
Tho Nhuom
Thuoc Bac
Thuy Khue
To Ngoc Van
Ton Duc Thang
Tong Dan
Tong Duy Tan
Tran Binh Trong
Tran Hung Dao
Tran Huy Lieu
Tran Khanh Du
Tran Nguyen Han
Tran Phu
Tran Quang Khai
Tran Quoc Toan
Tran Vu
Trang Thi
Trang Tien
Trich Sai
Trinh Hoai Duc
Truc Bach
Tu Hoa Cong Chua
Van Bao
Van Cao
Van Mieu
Van Phuc
Ve Ho
Ven Ho
Vong Ha
Vong Thi
Vu Thanh
Xuan Dieu
Xuan La
Yen Ninh
Yen Phu
Yet Kieu
an
Xu
19 - 12
An Duong
An Thanh 1
An Trach
An Xa
Au Co
Au Trieu
Ba Trieu
Bach Dang
Bach Dang
Bao Linh
Bat Su
Ben Nhat Ban
Bich Cau
Cao Ba Quat
Cao Nam
Cat Linh
Cau Dat
Cau Giay
Cau Go
Chau Long
Chua Lang
Chua Mot Cot
Chuong Duong Do
Co Tam
Co Xa
Cua Bac
Cua Nam
Da Tuong
Dang Dung
Dang Tat
Dang Thai Mai
Dang Thai Than
Dang Tran Con
Dao Tan
Dien Bien Phu
Dinh Cong
Dinh Le
Dinh Liet
Dinh Tien Hoang
Doan Thi Diem
Doc Lan
Doc Lap
Doi Can
Dong Quan
Dong Xuan
Duong Buoi
Duong Quan Ham
Duong Thanh
Gam Cau
Gia Ngu
Giang Van Minh
GianG Vo
Hai Ba Trung
Ham Long
Ham Tu Quan
Hang Can
Hang Bac
Hang Bai
Hang Be
Hang Bong
Hang Bun
Hang Buom
Hang Chieu
Hang Cot
Hang Da
Hang Dao
Hang Dau
Hang Dieu
Hang Dong
Hang Duong
Hang Ga
Hang Gai
Hang Khoai
Hang Luoc
Hang Ma
Hang Nam
Hang Ngang
Hang Non
Hang Than
Hang Thung
Hang Tre
D4
D4
D5
D3, E2
E4
E3
D3
C1, C2, C3
C1
C3
C4
C3
D3
D2, D1
D1
E3, E2, E1, D1
A1, B1
E2
D4, E4
D3
D5
D5
D5
D4
E5
D2
D1
D5
D4
D4
D4
E4, E5
D3
D5
D4
B3
C4
D4
E4
C3, D3
D2
B5
C4
C3
D1, E1
D2
C1
A1
E1
C4
D1
D5
D4, D3
D4, D3
D4
C5
D1
D4
D4
A1
D2
A3
D3
Du
on
g
Hanoi
Map
1
Hang Trong
Hang Vai
Hang Voi
Hao Nam
Hoa Lo
Hoa Nam
Hoang Dieu
Hoang Hoa Tham
Hoang Quoc Viet
Hoang Van Thu
Hoe Nhai
Hung Vuong
Khuc Hao
Kim Ma
Kim Ma Thuong
La Thanh
Lac Long Quan
Lang Ha
Le Duan
Le Hong Phong
Le Lai
Le Phung Hieu
Le Thach
Le Thai To
Le Thanh Tong
Lieu Giai
Linh Lang
Lo Su
Luong Van Can
Ly Nam De
Ly Quoc Su
Ly Thuong Kiet
Ly Van Phuc
Ma May
Nam Ngu
Nghi Tam
Nghia Dung
Ngo Tram
Ngo Van So
Ngoc Ha
Ngoc Khanh
Ngoc Thuy
Nguyen Bieu
Nguyen Canh Chan
Nguyen Chi Thanh
Nguyen Cong Hoan
Nguyen Dinh Hoan
Nguyen Hoang Ton
Nguyen Hong
Nguyen Khac Nhu
Nguyen Khanh Toan
Nguyen Khiet
Nguyen Khuyen
Nguyen Thai Hoc
Nguyen Tri Phuong
Nguyen Tu Gian
Nguyen Van Ngoc
Nha Chung
Nha Tho
Nhat Chieu
Nui Truc
Nuoc Phan Lan
Ong Ich Khiem
TThanh Cong
Giang
Vo
Lake
3
Qu
ang
Ba
Quang An
Market
an
Xu
C
AU
LLONG
ONG BIEN
Die
u
Ho
Tay
oc
Nu
an
Ph
Thai M
ai
n
La
Tu
Ho
a
huy
Co
ng
Ch
u
Dang
cT
Ng o
TA
TA
AY
Y HO
n
An
nh 1
T ha
An
M
I TA
Phu
Yen
NGH
A
ng
Q ua
Duo
ng
West
Lake
Ngo 78
Ngoc
Tan
Ap
Ham
Lon
Cau
Da
Quyen
Co
Tam
uy Ch
u
Trung
Tr
Ba Tr
ieu
So
T R AN
HUNG
wordvietnam.com
DAO | June 2016 Word | 155
Phan H
inh Tr
Hang B
ai
Da Tu
ong
19 - 1
2
Hoa L
o
Ngo
Bat Su
Hang Do
ng
Thuoc B
ac
De
Ly Nam
Hung
Phung
Boi Ch
au
Quan
Su
Quang
Van
ai Than
Dang Th
ang
Bach D
Ng o
ng
Su
Manh
Ly Th
uong
Kiet
DU
uoc T
oan
Pham
ien
Trang T
Opera
House
ao
N gu L
Tran B
Nh
uo
UNG D m
AO
Hai B
a Tru
H
KHAN
on g
Th
o
Pham
Can
Tri Phu
ong
Hooaang Dieu
Nguyen
Phan
HO
OAN
AN KIEM
TRAN
LE DUAN
Hieu
ong
anh T
Le Th
Yet K
ie
Mieu
V an
Hang
H an
g Bu
Yen
Nin
h
Chau Lo
ng
Cua Ba
c
Dang Dun
g
Nguyen Bie
Chan Dang
Tat
Doc La
p
Khuc Ha
o
Ong Ich Khiem
Tran
Con
Dang
g Do
Duon
Dan
Tong
DUC
THA
NG
g
Dan
oi
gV
i To
TON
h
Bac
Ha
Han
Trinh
Ly Va
n Ph
Hoai
Bich
uc
Duc
Cau
n
Q ua
ng
Chuo
g
Le Phun
Dinh
Le
Trang
Tien
ng
Tu
Ham
Tran Nguyen Han
Le Lai
Le Thach
St.Tr Joseph's Cathedral

a ng T
hi
Tan
g
Von
Lo Su
a
Ly Th
Giang Van Minh
Thung
Hang
e
Hoan
Kiem
Lake
Phu
c
g Tr
H an
ang
Dinh Tien Ho
ang
g
Chun
Nha
Hao N
am
Hang Mam
Gia Nggu
Hang Dau
ieu Nha Tho
inh
n Khie
Nguye
Hang Be
n
Tro
Le Thai To
g
Han
r
Au T
Dinh Liet
Dao
Hang
n
n Ca
g Va
Luon
Ga i
L
Bao
Ma May
Ta Hien
ng
N ga
Hang
Can
Hang
Hang Bac
Cau Go
Dinh Tien
Ho
H
ian
Buom
Hang
ONG
G DU
N
O
CHU
CAU
AI
KH
Ca
Tran
Q
Duong
Phu Doan
TRAN
H
Dong Xuan
Market
Hang Chieu
Hang
u
oc S
g
Han
Ly Qu
ong
Hai B
a Tru
Ly Th
uong
Kie
Cha
nh
Nam Ngu
gB
H an
Quan
Su
Van Chuong
Lake
am
Cua N
Hanoi Train
Train
Station
on
Hang Da
Tha
en Th
ai Ho
c
Cua Nam
Market
Linh Quang
Lake
Hang Dieu
hanh
u
Lie
La
Nguy
Tan
uy
gD
Ton
i
hoa
Hang Bo
ng T
D uo
uy
DONG D
DA
A
Vietnam National
Academy of Music
Hang N
BIEN
Long Bien
Train
rain Station
au
Quat
Hang
Tram
Ngo
Tran Ph
u
Nguye
n Khuy
en
Giam
Hang Vai
Leather
Market
Vietnam Fine
Arts Museum
Cao B
a Qua
t
om
Nhu
Tho
nH
iem
Q uo
c Tu
Hang Ma
u
Ph
Tra
Thi D
I HOC
Dau
C
Gam
ien
nB
D ie
Doan
anh
Chi Lang
Park
ao
Cat Lin
NGUY
EN TH
A
g Ch
Kim Ma
Bus Station
An Trach
Vu
Th
hong
Tran Ph
u
Han
Vo
ng
Gia
Le Hong
P
Hang
Hang Ga
m
Na
Dinh C
ong
Tru
o
Ca
Chua Mo
t Cot
Son Tay
KIM MA
ai
an
Xu
ng
Do
u oc
gL
Han
Hang CCot
o
Ngoc H
BA DINH
c
Tru
NG
Nh
gK
Han
Ho Chi Minh
Mausoleum
Doi Can
e
Ho
Hoang Va
n Thu
Ha
Long Bien
Market Long Bien
Bus Station
c
G
Phu
AN
QU
AN
TR
Museum
PHAN D
INH PHU
G
LON
CAU
uG
nT
uy e
Ng
Tan
Hung Vuo
ng
Hanoi
Palace
han
Hang T
AM
TH
A
Bach Thao
HO
NG
OA Ho Chi Minh Park
Ng
oc
Quan Thanh
Thuy Khue
Nguyen Can
h
o
nH
Ng
uy e
nK
Pha
h
mH
ong ac Nh
T ha
u
i
Xa
An
a
cX
P hu
Ve
i
Nu
Quan Thanh
Temple Tran Vu
Khue
YE
NP
HU
Chin
Truc
ruc Bach
Lake
Th u y
Ng
hia
Du
Co
n
Xa g
D uc
Th
an
hN
ie n
Bac
h
9
So
Pho
Tru
c
Thuy
1
So
i
Nu
ke
DO
CV
AN
Tay Ho Weekend
Market
Van
goc
To N
Dam Tri
Ho Chi Minh City
Day Tripper: HCMC / Body and Temple / Bar Stool / Know Your City / Top Eats / Amazing Grapes / A
World of Good
Photo by Vu Ha Kim Vy
HCMC
Essentials
BAKERIES
M M M
BOOKSHOPS
ABC BAKERY
BAKERY & CAF
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1
phamngulao.abcbakery.co
Baguettes, croissants, pizza,

cakes, muffins, donuts and
brownies, this bakery and
caf all in one is a popular stop for those heading
through the Backpacker
District. Online ordering
available.
BREAD TALK
CHAIN BAKERY
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo
City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7
breadtalkvietnam.com
A Singaporean bakery chain

that is vying for the Vietnam
cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious,
airy atmosphere. Has eight
locations and counting.
HARVEST BAKING
AMERICAN BAKERY
harvestbaking.net
With a production facility in

Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and
non-retail trade, cooking up
the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has
an excellent home delivery
service. Check the website
for details.
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
TOUS LES JOURS
FAHASA
VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE
BOOKSTORE
40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le

Loi, Q1
fahasa.com
Selling up a good selection of

English language books in
a range of reading areas
this multi-storied bookshop
also does stationery, toys
and a range of related products. Has a good selection of
ESL texts.
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE
NAM PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002
in Ho Chi Minh City as the
first and only francophone
bookshop in the whole of
Vietnam. Only books written
in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes.
A catalogue is available at
namphongsaigon.com
PNC
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE
BOOKSTORE
2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor

Parkson Center, 35-45 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1
pnc.com.vn
Although there are some

English-language texts in
this modern, well laid out
bookstore, the focus here
is on all things Vietnamese.
Worth checking out, thought,
for the occasional gem.
M M M
BUSINESS GROUPS
BAKERY & CAFE
180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran

Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen
Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach
Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte
Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho,
Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
touslesjoursbakery.com
The background of this Korean bakery chain makes

interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they
opened in the US, 2005 in
China and 2007 in Vietnam.
French-styled with an Asian
touch, the bare-brick dcor
makes this a popular joint.
Has over 25 locations in Vietnam.
VOELKER
BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)

6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling

probably the tastiest range of
patisseries, breads, quiches
and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is a
must try.
merce aims to create an effective network of business

associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF
COMMERCE (AMCHAM)
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER
OF COMMERCE
(AUSCHAM)
2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP

OF VIETNAM (BBGV)
3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANADIAN CHAMBER OF
COMMERCE (CANCHAM)
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the

Canadian Chamber of Com-
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS
GROUP VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS
GROUP
6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
M M M
CLOTHING &
ACCESSORIES
ANUPA ECO LUXE
LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING
37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel:

0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1,

Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and

sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES

(08) 3827 5267
LEATHER & JEWELLERY
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am
to 8pm
This centrally located unique

boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique
which exclusively retails the
complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903

641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

2210 2084
ORANGE
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521

8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES
77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
DIAMOND PLAZA
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
HUNG VUONG
PLAZA
126 Hung Vuong, Q5.

Tel: (08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
BUDGET CLOTHING

3820 2620
9am to 10pm
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)

3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:

0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
GINKGO
SHOPPING
MALLS
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CORPORATE GIFTS
AMBRIJ
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
A one-stop-shop concept
company providing marketing services including POSM,
corporate gifts and luxury
ranges of business gifts
from international brands
like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881,
Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton,

Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)

3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1

Tel: (08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
Ungaro and more. Also do

event management services.
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
AIRLINES
AIR ASIA
airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
airfrance.com.vn
CATHAY PACIFIC
cathaypacific.com/vn
CHINA AIRLINES
china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
jetstar.com/vn/en
KOREAN AIR
koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA
AIRLINES
malaysiaairlines.com
The Overland Club organises

pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
SAIGON COOKING
CLASSES BY HOA TUC
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local

specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an
English-speaking Vietnamese
chef, includes a trip around
Ben Thanh Market to gather
fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY
CENTRE
Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,

Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932
6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
3840 3946
atc-craft.com
AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
SINGAPORE
AIRLINES
singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
tigerair.com
This An Phu-based shop

stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so its limited and exclusive with only one or two
pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
CHI LAI
VIETJETAIR
vietjetair.com
VIETNAM
AIRLINES
vietnamairlines.com
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a

good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the
corner of Pham Ngoc Thach
and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises

in sofas and other furniture
such as table sets, shelves
and kitchen cabinets. There
is a large selection of carpets
as well as numerous choices
of curtains and accessories.
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
FEELING TROPIC
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture
such as bamboo-imitation
and mosaic table sets, while
the second level stocks all
types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are
found on the level above.
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS
35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:

(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 9459
8am to 8pm
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:

(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65

Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115
nhaxinh.com
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
THE FURNITURE
WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
DAY TRIPPER: HCMC

THANH AN
Vu Ha Kim Vy goes in search of one of the citys hidden islands Thanh An
ver the past year, Thanh An has

become a popular destination
for those who like to di phuot
travel by motorbike. A small
island in Can Gio around 70km away
from the centre of Ho Chi Minh City, it
has a population of around 5,000 and its
economy is centred on fishing and salt
production.
No, dont bring your bike with you,
said a young girl standing next to me
waiting for the boat to the island. Thanh
An is so small. You can walk.
Leaving my bike at one of the parking
lots around the dock, I found myself a
comfortable spot next to the window on
the boat heading to the island.
What it Has
My first impression was that Thanh An
looked poor and depressing; the sizzling
hot and windless day helped increase that
feeling. I was standing at the dock and
wondering which direction to start off in.
I turned left following the long stone dyke
with the ocean on one side and mangrove
forest on the other. It was totally quiet
until the sound of a ships horn broke the
stillness.
One of the characteristics of the sea
round Can Gio is that the water is muddy
and suffused with fine silt. As there is no
beach on this island for tourists to laze
about on, fishing has become a popular
tourist entertainment at weekends.
You came here alone? [You] should go

at weekends. Its more fun, said the caf
lady while making me a lemonade. With
my tank top soaked in sweat, seated on a
bench placed under the shade of a tree I
looked around and tried to catch the vibe
of this fishing village. A couple of kids
walking home from school giggled and
talked in loud voices, while a lady was
checking her dried fish racks in the front
yard. There were many more dried fish
racks on the route heading to the heart of
the island.
For Longer Trips

Thanh An is more suited to a two-day
than a one-day trip, as the last boat leaves
PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY
the island at 5pm. Other fun activities

which require an overnight stay including
visiting the salt farms on another nearby
island, watching the sunset or fishing with
the locals on their boats.
As the island focuses on agriculture and
only got electricity a few months ago, it
doesnt have strong tourism services yet.
I saw only one guesthouse when I made a
loop walking around the village.
We dont have hotels here but you
can stay with us from VND20,000 to
VND30,000 per night per person, said
the seafood lady when I was having lunch
at her place. I ordered one crab and 300g
of shrimps that cost only VND67,000.
Suddenly my energy returned and
forgetting the three litres of water I had

just drunk to stave off the heat, I took
my first bite of the boiled shrimps. They
were tender, fresh and juicy. More than
worth the visit. And if two days are still
not enough for you, you can get on daily
boats travelling from Thanh An to Vung
Tau, which cost only VND20,000 and take
around two hours.
Thanh An is definitely not a place for
people who are looking for crystal clear
sea, white pristine beaches and fancy
hotels or resorts. However, its a decent
choice for a trip to get away from the
hustle and bustle of the city, and to eat
fantastic seafood.
Information
You can either go by bus or bike to Thanh An.
By bus: from the bus station at Ben
Thanh Market, get on the bus number 20 to
Binh Khanh ferry, take a ferry to reach Can
Gio. From Can Gio, take the bus number
90 to Tac Xuat dock, then take a boat to
Thanh An
By bike: From Nguyen Tat Thanh in
District 4 head to Nguyen Tan Phat, keep
going straight to Binh Khanh ferry. To reach
Can Gio, you have to pay VND4,500 for a
ferry trip. Follow Rung Sac Highway then
turn left to Duyen Hai at the end. Keep
heading to Can Thanh, turn left at Dang Van
Kieu and you will see Tac Xuat dock at the
end of the street.
BODY
f youve read this column regularly

you know that the mantra of calories
in versus calories out is not the
total picture when attempting to
lose fat and shape up. Our bodies are in
constant flux in the never-ending efforts
to maintain homeostasis the state of
equilibrium and balance.
Nutrient deficiencies and hormone
imbalances are quite often the underlying
issue holding people back from losing, and
then effortlessly maintaining, fat (weight)
loss. Below are six supplements you might
want to learn more about to help in your
efforts to lose fat and shape up.
Carnitine
The science is a little slim on L-carnitine,
but some studies do prove that carnitine
increases muscle mass, decreases fatigue
levels and reduces fat mass, which are all
key components of weight loss. Carnitine
reportedly works by carrying fatty acids
into cells so they can be burned for fuel.
Some studies have indicated that it is
especially helpful in reducing visceral
(belly) fat stores.
Magnesium
Low magnesium levels can impede a
persons ability to use glucose for fuel.
Instead of the body burning the energy, it
stores it as fat. Correcting a magnesium
deficiency stimulates metabolism by
increasing insulin sensitivity. High insulin
sensitivity is very good; it means your
body reacts quickly to rises in blood sugar
levels, uses a smaller amount of insulin and
returns to a balanced state quickly. Some
AND
TEMPLE
SUPPLEMENTS FOR FAT LOSS
BY PHIL KELLY
studies have shown that magnesium may

also inhibit fat absorption.
healthy nervous system, correction of the

adrenal glands functioning and aid in the
production of substances to regulate the
nerves and hormones. Good digestion is
another benefit of a Vitamin B complex.
It helps with proper digestion by aiding
healthy production of hydrochloric acid
(HCl); the acid breaks down carbohydrates,
fats and proteins more efficiently.
For fat loss specifically, vitamins B5
& B3 are ones to watch. B5 lowers body
weight by activating lipoprotein lipase,
an enzyme that burns fat cells. One study
linked B5 supplementation to less hunger
when dieting. B3 (niacin) has been shown
to increase adiponectin, a weight-loss
hormone secreted by fat cells. Clinical trials
have shown that niacin-bound chromium
supplements help reduced body weight.
Vitamin D
Experts from all over the world are
verifying that a very high percentage of
the population is deficient in vitamin D3
and that supplementation is essential.
Vitamin D3 is actually a pro-hormone
and plays a huge part in a wide range of
cellular functions. A deficiency in Vitamin
D is strongly linked to poor metabolism of
carbohydrates. Furthermore, the genes that
are regulated by Vitamin D may change the
way fat cells are formed, making it easier
to store fat. According to experts, Vitamin
D3 may be the single most important
supplement we can take for our health
Zinc
Zinc plays a primary role in anabolic
hormone production. Ample zinc allows
for more healthy release of the three most
important anabolic hormones; testosterone,
growth hormone and insulin-like growth
factor-1 (IGF-1). These hormones are some
of the best fat-burning substances your
body can produce.
Deficiency of zinc also reduces leptin, a
beneficial hormone that regulates appetite.
Leptin signals the brain telling you when
youre full and satisfied. We find that
people with low leptin levels or impaired
leptin function tend to overeat and
therefore put on fat.
B Vitamins
B vitamins help with energy production,
fight fatigue and lethargy, improve
Chromium
Makes the body more sensitive to insulin,
helping to reduce body fat and increase
lean muscle.
Your diet should first and foremost focus
on developing optimal cellular function. If
your internal environment is out of balance
your system will find it hard to build new
lean tissue (muscle) and burn the excess fat
stores. Nutrient deficiencies are common
and really set you back, especially if you
have increased your activity levels.
If this information interests you, get in
touch with a professional to discuss testing
and treatment, if necessary.
Phil is founder and master trainer at Body
Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763,
at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or
through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)
HCMC
Essentials
CYCLING
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for

two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
JETT CYCLES
OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM
384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi

Sau, Q3
jett-cycles.com
The showroom home of Jett

Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam.
Sells up budget bicycles to
high-end product, with the
full range of accessories in
between. Also stocks GT and
Cannondale.
SAIGON CYCLES
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1

Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08)
5410 3114
xedapcaocap.com
Specialising in Trek and Surly,

Saigon Cycles is also famed
for its Sunday morning rides.
Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle
repairs.
ELITE DENTAL GROUP.

57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC,
Tel: (08) 3933 3737
info@elitedental.com.vn
elitedental.com.vn
Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped

clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants,
ALL-ON-6 implants, dental
implants, prosthodontics,
Invisalign & orthodontics.
Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you
an extremely comfortable
experience.
INTERNATIONAL SOS
DENTAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider

of medical assistance and international healthcare offers
full dental services in the
clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high
skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.
MINH KHAI DENTAL
CLINIC
THE BIKE SHOP

CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3744 6405
thebikeshopvn.com
The go-to location for all your

cycling needs in District 2.
Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT
and Aluboo, as well as the
full selection of accessories.
Organises regular cycle rides,
does repairs and rentals.
Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.
M M M
DENTAL CLINICS

Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399
STARLIGHT
DENTAL CLINIC
2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
24, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6282 8822
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian,
Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community
due to its modern and effective treatments allied with
extremely reasonable prices.
ACCADENT
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le

Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
INTERNATIONAL SOS
DENTAL CLINIC

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
Globally renowned provider

full dental services in the
clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high
skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung
Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999
Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba
Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777
An international dental clinic

equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
HCMC
Essentials
MAPLE HEALTHCARE
DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7

(across from FV Hospital), Tel:
Tel: (08) 5410 0100
maplehealthcare.net
Specialising in healthcare,
dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the
latest technology together
with efficient and comfortable service.
M M M
GALLERIES
CRAIG THOMAS
GALLERY
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Craig Thomas Gallery offers

a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established
local artists. In operation
since 2009, its founder has
been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now
has a second newer gallery
at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese

propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
ists, lecture series and an

exchange programme that
invites international artists /
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
frozen meat and fish, fruit,

vegetables, herbs, spices
and a wide selection of dairy
products.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
ANNAM GOURMET
MARKET
GROCERY & DELI
1618 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious

Frenchowned grocery shop
stocking a large range of
foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five

star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
galeriequynh.com
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE

ARTS MUSEUM
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 4441
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
Set in one of the finest

remaining buildings of
colonial-era Vietnam, this
multi-storey museum houses
collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has
regular exhibitions.
san-art.org
San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition

space that offers residency
programmes for young art-
GROCERS & DELI
29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3823 8526
Courtesy of a farm in Dalat,
Veggys retails some of the
best quality fruit and veg
available in the city. Also
has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef
served up at El Gaucho.
HAIRDRESSERS,
SALONS & SPAS
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
CAT MOC SPA
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies

and couples only, treatments
at this Japanese spa include
facial, body and foot care,
and Japanese-style haircuts,
as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.
CONCEPT COIFFURE
48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4625
MEATWORKS BUTCHERY
BUTCHERS
1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2565
meatworksasia.com
Focusing on the retail trade,

the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes
pre-prepared and, if you so
wish, pre-marinated. Sells
up some of the best imported meats in town together
with homemade sausages,
free-range products and
excellent Australian grassfed steak.
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
SAN ART
48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh,
Tel: (08) 6294 7059
VEGGYS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral
water and spirits.
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3914 1318
A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts
many a supermarket in this
country to shame. As well
as a dizzying selection of
imported foods, also sells
Conceptcoiffure.vn
SPORTS
CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH
CRICKET CLUB
OF SAIGON)
Adam Zakharoff
Email: adamzakharoff@
gmail.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN
SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB)

Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
sacccricket@gmail.com
SSC (SRI LANKA

SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
manish@ambrij.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages

lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS

CLUB IN SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909
682 827
glowsaigon.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702
Nguyen Van Linh, Tan
Phong, Q7
SPORTS GENERAL
UCC (UNITED CRICKET

CLUB)
Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
Saigonraiders.com
deepteshgill@gmail.com
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated

her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.
famenails.com
SAIGON RAIDERS
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
FOOTBALL & RUGBY

AUSTRALIAN RULES
FOOTBALL
Tel: 0937 683 230
vietnamswans.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
gauloisdesaigon.com
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
Contact Fred on 0919 709
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500
171.
astere@hotmail.fr
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL
TEAM
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
DARTS LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
SOFTBALL LEAGUE
saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS
NETBALL CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com
TORNADOS HOCKEY
CLUB
436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10,
Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van
Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
XROCK CLIMBING
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
HAIR BAR
CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon

where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment
only, giving female clients
the opportunity to get their
hair done on the run. Of
course, they have to look
fabulous, too. Fortunately
this is one of Hair Bars specialities. Check the salon out
on Facebook: facebook.com/
hairbarvn.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a

peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents
and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural
French products in a clean
and pleasant environment.
JASMINE
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a

good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent
treatments.
MERCI
(08) 3825 8799
merci-space.com
A unique nail spa and bistro where you can pamper

your nails, enjoy a massage,
meet your friends, enjoy a
meal and sip a cocktail. Provides only waterless nails
treatments to avoid bacteria
and dry skin as well as Zoya
and Kure Bazaar non-toxic
varnishes.
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
A District 2 favourite, this is
the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails.
Cheap prices, too.
SOI SPA
6th & Rooftop, 44 Nguyen
Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8678
soispa.vn
A lovely little place with nail

services, shampoo head
massages, and other simple treatments for a quick
getaway experience. Also
features a rooftop terrace
and a great little drinks and
wine selection. Open daily
from 10am to 9pm.
SPA TROPIC
79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the

refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
HOSPITALS &
MEDICAL CLINICS
AMERICAN
CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy,

acupuncture and foot care
treatments through the use
of cutting edge technology
for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries as well
as all types of foot related
problems without the need
of drugs or surgery.
AMERICAN EYE CENTER
5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105
Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
americaneyecentervn.com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My

Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children
by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with
17 years of experience. The
American-standard facility is
equipped with state of the
art equipments for the early
detection and treatment of
important eye diseases from
Lasik and cataract surgeries
to presbyopia, glaucoma
and diabetic eye disease
treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery
and Botox injections are also
available.
CENTRE MEDICAL
INTERNATIONALE (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic

provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and
acupuncture.
FAMILY MEDICAL
PRACTICE
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
34 Le Duan Street, Q1; 95 Thao

Dien Q2, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
vietnammedicalpractice.com
Family Medical Practice
(FMP) is the largest and one
of the oldest foreign, privately-owned, international
health care providers in Vietnam. As the only health
care provider that can offer

a countrywide network of
integrated clinics for foreign
and local populations, FMPs
main specialties include family medicine, pediatrics and
emergency medicine as well
as health checks and work
permit health-tests.
FV HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon

South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08)
5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially maternity care.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial

Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French,

and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health
care. Plus sports medicine,
cosmetic treatments, skin
care and surgical consultations.
HANH PHUC
INTERNATIONAL
HOSPITAL
Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong

Tel: (0650) 363 6068
hanhphuchospital.com
Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in

Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts
of town is gaining a growing
reputation for service and
treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women
and children. Has a clinic at
97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1
HAPPINESS (HANH
PHUC) ORIENTAL
MEDICINE CENTER
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,

Tel: 0906 684 969
INTERNATIONAL SOS
HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

Tel: (08) 3829 8424
The worlds leading provider

primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is
available in many fields.
HCMC
Essentials
IF CONSULTING
IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinasia.com
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
107B Truong Dinh, Q3
Tel: 01676 71 75 79
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic

offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers a

broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL
MEDICINE HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3932 6579
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3910 4545
victoriavn.com
Well-regarded clinic offering

general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology,
womens health and internal
medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance
companies in Vietnam and
abroad.
Independent advisors that

represent top reputable
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
For emergencies call 0903
732365
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
1800 599 998
libertyinsurance.com.vn
International insurance firm

providing the full range of
services to the individual
car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home
insurance and much more.
NOAH JAMES
INSURANCE AGENCY
Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858
noahjamesinsurance.com
Skype: jp.global
A full service broker offering expatriates and local

Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel,
as well as speciality cover for
student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme
athletics and adventure. For
details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com
TENZING PACIFIC
SERVICES
181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 5367
ten-pac.com
A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of

insurance solutions from the
best local and international
providers. Recommendations
are based exclusively on client needs.
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS
INSURANCE
PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM
4th/12th Floor Continental
Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 9908
pacificcross.com.vn
Pacific Cross Vietnam recently changed names,

from Blue Cross Vietnam,
to align with their regional
sister companies. Together
they form the Pacific Cross
group of companies with
over 60 years experience
providing health and travel
insurance to people who call
Asia home. Their reputation
for transparent, honest and
reliable service means they
are the strength behind
your insurance. Contact
them now for a free quote.
ABC INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (ABCIS)
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon
South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary),
Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British Government Inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8% of
schools worldwide. ABCIS
is accredited by CIE, AQA,
the Education Development
Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides
education for two to 18
year olds in a supportive
and friendly environment.
AUSTRALIAN
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960;
Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai
Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International

School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme
(including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).
ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL
PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU
1st and 2nd floor, Somerset
Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An
Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804
etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc
Following an international
curriculum for children aged
18 months to six years, in the
early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed,
inspired by the Reggio Emilia
Project of Northern Italy. It is
a play-based, inquiry model
in which children co-construct their learning in close,
respectful collaboration with
their teachers. This helps
us provide an environment
where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head
start in life.
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved by

the British Government, BIS
provides a British style curriculum for an international
student body from pre-school
to Year 13. The school is
staffed by British qualified
and trained teachers with
recent UK experience. Fully
accredited by the Council of
International Schools and a
member of FOBISIA, BIS is the
largest international school in
Vietnam.
CANADIAN
7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam

serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence. Has a
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,

funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING
189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids

in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet
and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and
a mixture of private and group classes.
PIANO CLASSES
Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
SAIGON MOVEMENT
Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com
SAIGON SEAL TEAM
55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB
38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16
years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth
soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
newly built campus.
Nobel Education Network.

The school educates global
citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.
SAIGON SOUTH
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from

elementary to high-school,
emphasizing a multicultural
student environment and a
commitment to wellrounded education at all levels.
HO CHI MINH CITY
28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08)
3898 9100
ishcmc.com
HCMCs most established

international school offers
three International Baccalaureate programmes for
students from two to 18
years old. ISHCMC will be
launching a new secondary
campus in 2017, featuring
Vietnams first Innovation
Center, a 350-seat professional theatre, NBA-sized
basketball courts and a 25m
competitive swimming pool.
HO CHI MINH CITY
AMERICAN ACADEMY
16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08)
3898 9100
aavn.edu.vn
ISHCMC American Academy is a U.S. curriculum

secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years
old. Early university credits,
a 1:1 University Counseling
Program, and an extensive
EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100%
acceptance rate at overseas
universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund.
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7;
27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08)
5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in

Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes
for children ages two to five.
Known for unique facilities,
experienced staff, highquality learning resources,
and small class sizes.
EUROPEAN
HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2,
Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257
eishcmc.com
The European International

School offers a supportive
and challenging academic
education from Early Years
to Grade 12 based on the IB
curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the
SAIGON PEARL
92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh,
Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99
issp.edu.vn
Vietnams only international

school offering a U.S. curriculum for children aged
18 months to 11 years old.
With 100% English language
immersion, a library containing over 13,500 English
books and more than 60%
of students achieving above
grade level English, ISSP
students are well prepared
for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC - American
Academy.
MONTESSORI
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with

their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three
to 12 a classic Montessori
education as well as a variety
of extracurricular activities.
RENAISSANCE
INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7,
Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum

based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350-seat
theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and
drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON KIDS
EDUCATIONAL
CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.com
SKECC has evolved over 10

years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for
all students.
SAIGON STAR
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge International Primary

Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare

centre provides children ages
18 months to six years with
a high quality education in
a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
tas.edu.vn
Accredited by the Western

Association of Schools and
Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and
provides an American-based
curriculum with rigorous
performance standards and
a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university
credit courses through their
partnership with Missouri
State University, as well as
an Intensive ESL Program for
English Language Learners.
M M M
PROPERTY RENTALS
CHUMS HOUSE
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 7237
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is

a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
HCMC
Essentials
HAPPY HOUSE
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,
Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
NAM HOUSE
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental

properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web

based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
THE NEST
216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: 0938 580800
thenesthousing.com
Wellknown property search

and real estate agency with
a useful website listing properties available for rent and
sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English,
French and Spanish.
M M M
MOTORBIKES
CHIS CAF
RENTALS

Tel: 0903 643446
Just relocated to its new

home in District 2, Saigon
Scooter Centre is more than
just the place to go for all
your classic scooter needs.
Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and
bike rentals.
M M M
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in

human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT
RECRUITMENT JSC
1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS
VIETNAM CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room
2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
vieclambank.com
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
The best-known recruitment

website in Vietnam. Post
youre the position youre
looking for and wait for the
responses. Youll get many.
Also a good site for expat
jobseekers.
RELOCATION AGENTS
chiscafe.com
Probably the best-known

motorbike rental joint in
town with over 200 bikes
and a range of models and
makes. Rents by the day or
by the month. Call or check
the website for details. Also
does visa extensions.
SAIGON BIKE RENTALS
Tel: 0972 451273
nga.natalie@gmail.com
saigonbikerentals.com
Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves,

Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos,
Luvias, SYM Attilas and
Excels. Call for details and
prices.
SAIGON SCOOTER
CENTRE
RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS
77a Hanoi Highway, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690
saigonscootercentre.com
provides tailored relocation

services.
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY
Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9
Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District
4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799
asiantigers-mobility.com
Asian Tigers is one of the

largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door
moving, housing and school
searches, local and office
moves and pet relocations.
JVK INTERNATIONAL
MOVERS
1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,

JVK is a leader in the field.
LOGICAL MOVES
VIETNAM
396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office
moves for household goods
and personal effects through
our global partner network.
Experts in exporting used
scooters that do not have
documentation.
SANTA FE RELOCATION
SERVICES
8FL, Thien Son Building, 5
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around

the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving,
pet transportation, relocation
services including home
search, orientation, cultural
training, immigration services and records management.
Email Vietnam@santaferelo.
com for info.
SERVICED
APARTMENTS
INTERCONTINENTAL
ASIANA SAIGON
RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll

find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished

accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well
as two on-site restaurants.
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank

hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment.
Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat
shuttle.
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3823 2288
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A
Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations,

with 130 offices globally, we
can move your property to
and from any location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices

in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury

Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
With tattoos becoming

increasingly popular,
over the past few years
there has been an
increase in the number
of tattoo studios around
the city.
Customers have the
choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on
offer in the studios or
bringing in their own
design. Most of the
studios offer bodypiercing services as
well. Pricing depends
on size and style.
EXILE INK
608
57 Xuan Thuy, Q2,

Tel: (08) 6675 6956
exileinkvietnam.com
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
SOMERSET SERVICED
RESIDENCES
8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
DIAMOND ISLAND
LUXURY RESIDENCES
No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678
TATTOO
ARTISTS
Somerset Chancellor Court,

Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences
combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the
services of a top-rated hotel.
They come with separate living and dining areas, as well
as a fully equipped kitchen
where guests can prepare a
meal for themselves, their
family and friends.
SPORTS & FITNESS

CHIARA SQUINZI
Tel: 01278 163620
SAIGON BODY
ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1
saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO
Group
81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh,

Q1
Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
laholista.com
Experienced health coach

and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients
achieve health and weight
goals through an innovative
holistic approach of food,
body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.
com
THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc

Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com
BODY AND MIND
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic
sensations, chains such
as CGV, Lotte and
Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and
independent flicks,
smaller outlets such as
Cinebox and Idecaf carry
little known Vietnamese
and European efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10

Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond

Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart,
469 Nguyen Huu Tho,
Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1

Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947
771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An

Phu, started by fitness guru
Cyril, features the same
personalised mentorship
Cyril's clients love. Includes
yoga, boxing and fitness for
kids and adults every day.
No membership fees. Pay
for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All
activities are safe and run
by Cyril himself.
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also

offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a
restaurant serving calorie
calibrated meals.
SAIGON HASH
HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the

county with a walk, usually
4km and a run around 8km.
VND150,000 for locals and
VND220,000 for expats. Bus,
water, snacks and freeflow
beer after the run.
In addition to the squash

court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
VERTICAL ACADEMY
CLIMBING GYM
Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966

920612
facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn
A bouldering gym and pro

climbing wall replete with
a showroom and caf offers
something that this area has
never experienced before, a
place to climb. Has a number
of climbing sections, runs
training courses and also
sells daily climbing passes
for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit
pass pay VND1 million).
VETERINARY CLINICS
SPORTS GARMENTS
City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding

international standards, the
team works tirelessly to help
clients with the support of a
dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive
diagnostic facilities.
SCORE-TECH
VIETNAMESE CLASSES
1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel:

(08) 3719 9588
VIETNAMESE
LANGUAGE GARDEN
135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh
Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771
vietnameselanguagegarden.
com
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging

from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport

garments for companies,
schools and professional
sports clubs using the latest
printing technology with a
design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the
whole production process
from fabric production and
printing to sewing. Big and
small orders for all sporting
and commercial needs.
ANIMAL DOCTORS
INTERNATIONAL
1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
Q2. (08) 6260 3980
animaldoctors.vn
Offers the very highest levels

of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery
to all pets in Ho Chi Minh
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA
FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1

Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn

3824 1555
A small but well-appointed
gym with regular fitness
classes, a steam room and
sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.
CGV CINEMAS
Level 5, Crescent Mall,

Nguyen Van Linh, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5412 2222; Level 10, CT
Plaza, 60A Truong Son,
Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297
1981; Level 2, Thao Dien
Mall, 12 Quoc Huong,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000;
Level 5, SC VivoCity,
1058 Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555;
Level 7, Hung Vuong
Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong,
Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388
STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh,

Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is
behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
cgv.vn
BAR STOOL
QUI DINING LOUNGE
ocated in the Lancaster Building

on Le Thanh Ton in the spot once
inhabited by Sin Lounge and
Cepage, Qui Dining Lounge looks
like it has been around for longer than the
short time its been open. It offers mood
lighting and a mellow atmosphere that
is equally good for lunch, the afternoon,
after-work cocktails, or for an evening out
on the town.
The dining lounge is much larger than
it appears at first glance, with the seating
going way back and wrapping around the
bar. Decked out with art murals, dark leather,
and soothing lighting, it is easy to see that
Qui has begun to create an experience for
its customers, offering refreshment and
atmosphere at almost any time of day.

The centrepiece of the space is undeniably
the bar; well stocked, beautifully lit, and
staffed with trained mixologists ready to
serve up an assortment of cocktails. As a
passionate fan of gin and tonic, my eyes lit
up at the full page dedicated to variations
of the G&T goodness. Tung Le, bar manager
at Qui, recommended the Hendricks
G&T (VND190,000), which is served with
cucumber wedges, cracked black pepper,
lime and rosewater. With 13 varieties of
gin available, the bar offers to elevate the
renowned gin and tonic beyond the basics.
Character
Another recommendation was the
Saigon Colada (VND200,000), served in a

pineapple-shaped goblet and decorated
with flowers and herbs. Upon my first
taste, I was greeted with a mouthful of
refreshment, and closing my eyes I found
myself transported to white sand beaches
and the soft sounds of waves lapping up on
the shore.
The Midnight Rose (VND 210,000) was a
delicate drink served in an ornate tea cup
with vodka infused with Earl Grey tea,
yogurt syrup and mint liqueur, really giving
this drink character. These flavours are
enhanced by the fruit from the white peach
pure and lemon juice.
The space we have created is not just a
bar, and were not trying to be a club; its a
PHOTOS BY SIN KAVANAGH & VU HA KIM VY
space you can come for a meal, a cocktail,

or some late night relaxation, says Mark
Molnar, the innovation executive chef at Qui.
The menu is fusion, but its a natural fusion
of flavours, not just forcing combinations for
shock value.
Tender
The menu is a combination of delicious
and healthy, with many dishes designed
to be shared with a group; there are even
raw food offerings. The cumin-spiced
Mongolian wagyu beef (VND270,000)
is deliciousness fried in a wok, and
paleo-friendly. The wagyu flank steak is
fantastically tender and cooked in a hoisin
glaze with Hunanese spice-mix fried with
peppers, onions and coriander, creating a

delicate blend of flavours.
The snack menu offers many plates of
shared bites that are easy on the wallet and
a joy for the stomach, starting with the chilifried edamame (VND60,000).
Chocolate cremeux (VND120,000) served
at Qui may be one of my new favourite
desserts. Cremeux, not to be confused with
a chocolate mousse or ganash, is chocolate
served folded atop passion fruit, mango, red
chilli and vanilla coulis, with a drizzle of
extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and five-spice
tuile. This decadent dish is a treat for the
eyes and for the taste buds, with the salty
flavours balancing out the rich chocolate and
the sharpness of the coulis.
We want to be known for our consistency

of flavours and combinations each of our
meals should tell a story, says Vu Duong,
marketing director at Qui. He envisions a
host of patrons in the lounge, from business
associates to young urban professionals, and
creative minds.
He adds: We have music on, but we
never want to overwhelm the conversations
going on around you. As a lounge we want
to create an atmosphere where you can talk
and engage with whoever youre with.
Sin Kavanagh
Qui Dining Lounge is located at 22-22 Bis
Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC, and is open from
11am to late. For more info, visit their website at
quilounge.com or call (08) 3828 8828
HCMC
On The Town
BARS & CLUBS

2 LAM SON
(MARTINI BAR)
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
International dcor blends

seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes
to create one of the most
tasteful if pricier bars in
Saigon.
ACOUSTIC BAR
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:

(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
With a free book exchange,

and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
BROMA, NOT A BAR
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the citys
weirdest and coolest events/
random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and
quite possibly the best lamb
burger in town. Check out
their bun bo Hue-inspired
cocktail.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)

3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
APOCALYPSE NOW
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
An institution and the kind of

place you end up drunk after
midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this
two-floor establishment with
DJs and occasional live music
is also famed for its hotdogs,
which are served up in the
garden terrace out back.
BIA CRAFT
CRAFT BEER BAR
90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08)

3744 2588
biacraft.com
As craft beer continues to

take over watering holes
around Ho Chi Minh City, so
a bar dedicated to all things
craft and real ale seems
like a pretty sensible idea,
right? Well, it is. Only small,
but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap
and by the bottle, Bia Craft
sells up a delectable range of
the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has
a decent food menu.
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909

028293
blanchystash.com
A multi-storey bar with dcor
and atmosphere more akin
to such an establishment in
New York or London. Has a
reputation for bringing in
big-name DJs. And when we
say big, we mean big. Check
their website for details.
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3836 8452
Just across the lane from

McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
CHAMPION SPORTS BAR
SPORTS BAR
45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 4202
A recent addition to the
sports-and-watering-hole
drinking scene, Champion
is located in the Backpackers area and shows all the
major televised sports. Also
has a pool table, darts, tasty
Western and Vietnamese
food, great cocktails and ice
cold beer. Western managed,
wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.
out their daily food specials.
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
EON HELI BAR

LOUNGE BAR
Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai

Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Breathtaking views require a

vantage point and EON Heli
Bar is by far the highest spot
in Saigon for a spectacular
cityscape, appealing drinks
and a vibrant ambience.
Night live music and DJs.
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08)

6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
A fresh feel thanks to the

large space and light-wood
tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole
a popular bar for televised
sports, pub food, darts, pool
and more.
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 8605
hoavien.vn
The original microbrewery,

this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech
Brewhouse is as popular as
it was 15 years ago when
it was first opened. Does
a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed
beer.
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views

alone, Chill Skybar remains
the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking
around an oval-shaped bar
with cityscapes of Saigon.
One of the top watering
holes in the city.
ICE BLUE
EXPAT BAR
24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1
One of this citys longest running watering holes and
the original home of the
darts league has recently
reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still
key here, with each of the
bottom three floors having
elements devoted to this
most pub-friendly of sports.
55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)

3744 5453
What does the Thao Dien
area of Saigon seriously lack?
A sports bar. And this is the
Al Fresco Groups answer to a
distinct shortage hole in the
market. Sleek lines, modern
dcor, elegant and spacious,
dartboards and of course,
lots of large screens to watch
the televised sports. Check
lastcallsaigon.com
If youre in need of dense,

soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail
on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop
and fast becoming that of
the similarly inclined. Great
happy hour deals for early
evening starters.
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
LE PUB
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor and
a friendly ambiance combine
to create a perfect setting for
enjoying tasty international
and Vietnamese cuisine.
Gets busy at weekends with
a clientele made up of hip,
young Vietnamese and the
occasional foreigner.
Tel: 0906 912730
www.
vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR

3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
MALT
46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1
Malt is a non-smoking bar
in downtown Saigon offering shuffleboard, darts, craft
beers on tap, signature cocktails and delicious tapas and
pub grub. Its unpretentious
vibe and casual atmosphere
will have you feeling at
home.
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
HUNGRYPANDA.
VN
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.
com.vn
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000

www.lotteria.vn
PIZZA HUT (PHD)

MAY RESTAURANT
& BAR
Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR
6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting

range of Spanish and Cuban
cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry
wurst and Wiener schnitzel.
Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.
D2
SPORTS BAR

3823 3122
GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR
CHILL SKYBAR
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE
LAST CALL
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR
44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)

3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon
glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events
/ DJ sets.
19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)

6291 3686
mayrestaurant.com.vn
An international comfortfood menu mixes with

excellent cocktails and an
extensive winelist at this
attractive, international bar
and restaurant. Dine at the
bar or upstairs in the restaurant space.
NUMBER FIVE
EXPAT BAR
44 Pasteur, Q1
The original expat bar, this
institution of a place gets
packed every night thanks to
its drinking hall atmosphere,
attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular
live music.
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR
Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795

www.scoozipizza.com
TACO BICH
www.tacobich.com
VIETNAMMM
www.vietnammm.com
An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive
rooftop restaurant with a lounge
bar just 50m from Ben Thanh
Market. Features a glass shell
modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere
and views over central Saigon.
OBRIENS
Lai, Q1
saigonsoul.com
The ultimate in poolside entertainment, Saigon Soul is defined by

its great party atmosphere. Booming house music, cold drinks and
beautiful people. What better way
to spend a Saturday? Runs every
Saturday from late November until
mid May.
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL
74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports bar with

classic pub dcor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection
and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out
their zesty rolls.
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866
Located on the 20th floor with
stunning views of the city, houses
an upscale, contemporary interior
and an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and
casual, yet hip ambience.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999
Known as the Curry Pub, this
pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all
things curry anything from Goan
fish curries to beef rendangs and
more. A popular local haunt.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08)

3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed Caf

Latin, Phattys has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports
viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket
to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.
SAIGON OUTCAST
SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT
C0.01 Riverside Residence C,

Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08)
6274 1520
facebook.com/PitchersPMH
Located in the heart of Phu My

Hung, this spacious restobar with
an affection for showing televised
sports has a family friendly edge
thanks to its kids play area. Does a
great grill menu and of course, lots
of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.
with BBQs available for parties and events.
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827

4738
Stormp.vn
Named after the Danish artist

Storm P, this long-running bar is
the home of Saigons Scandinavian
community thanks to its laid-back
atmosphere and excellent food
menu. A good place to watch the
live sports.
VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3822 9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail

bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and
one of the best spirit selections in town.
Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel:

0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative design

form the foundation for this bar /
arts venue / mini-skate park and
graffiti space. Come for barbeque
and reasonably priced drinks, stick
around for entertaining events and
markets.
SAIGON RANGER
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)

7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point for

artistic activities, the space at
Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and
dialogue between different forms
of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark
wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music
and other types of performance.
SAIGON SAIGON BAR
LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
This iconic bar is a great place to

watch the sun go down over the
city and relax for a few drinks with
friends. Has live entertainment six
nights a week courtesy of resident
Cuban band, Qvans, from 9pm
Wednesday to Monday.
THE CUBE BAR

HIP RESTOBAR
VINYL BAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903

369798
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR
A sleek, industrial looking restobar

with edgy dcor and just a hint
of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria,
Iberian-influenced cocktails and
an emphasis on all things Latin.
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop
of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts
area out back and is a popular space for
watching the live English Premier League.
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
THE OBSERVATORY
BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite

Elisa Boat)
Known for its late night parties
and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger
space in District 4. Complete with
a new balcony overlooking the
Saigon River and an even larger
sound system, The Observatory is
a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.
THE ORIENT
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR
24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
WINE BAR 38
38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968

With a huge selection of self-imported wines
from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary
venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge
on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu
paired to all the wines, with a huge selection
of the good stuff sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY
13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine

bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious, brick-wall

interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and
live music. A great venue for a few
beers and more.
SHRINE BAR
LOUNGE BAR
61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL
STORM P
shrinebarsaigon.com
Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like

atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay
Srei, a temple from the ancient
Angkor kingdom, the walls are
covered in statues depicting
ancient Khmer gods and kings.
With ambient lighting and town
tempo music, here its all about
good cocktails and an even better
atmosphere.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THE SOCIETY
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR
99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Designed as a Laneway-style
restobar, the kind of place found
in Hong Kong, London, New York
or Central Melbourne, thanks to
its indoor and outdoor ambience,
The Society brings dining and
drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare
and seafood make this a place to
go for drinks, a full-blown meal or
a mixture of both.
THEMED MUSIC BAR
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08)

5410 3900
A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks
to its cartoon dcor and light but
fun ambience. Has a reasonable
food menu to complement the
drinks.
SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY
POOL & DAY CLUB
New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le
103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08)

3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar doubles

as a music venue, where three
talented Filipino bands (B&U,
Wild West and Most Wanted)
play covers of rock icons like Bon
Jovi, U2 and Guns n Roses. Top
shelf spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the name
game here.
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900
The first bar established in Saigon
South, great food, great music and
loads of laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights and
a variety of live sports events to
please everybody. Big screens and
outdoor seating add to the mix,
KNOW YOUR CITY

THE ALLEYWAYS
he word alley is more than 600

years old, owing its origin to the
Old French word alee, meaning
walking or passage, and its
medieval equivalent aler, or go (today aler
is spelt aller). The alleyway network in Ho
Chi Minh City was introduced as a practical
way of delivering goods and people to
buildings away from the main streets.
Alleyways have been a characteristic of
city planning (a remainder of a medieval
street network) since cities were first
formed. But the rise of the automobile saw
their use diminish and so they became
neglected and often dangerous.
Alleyways were also the product of
Public Health legislation in the 19th
century that allowed for the efficient
collection of waste. Before cities had
sanitation, alleyways allowed these
unattractive uses kept away from the front
doors of the street.
After sewerage systems were installed
and larger vehicles were introduced to
make the collection of rubbish easier, the
reason for laneways was removed, and
they became deserted places, becoming
breeding grounds for crime and vermin.
Now, cities around the world have
rediscovered and embraced their alleyways
and have made them into exciting places
with restaurants, retail and outdoor art.
Community and Climate

The New Urbanist movement adopted
principles of fine-grain patterns in the city,
with mixed uses as well as neo-traditional
design. Many of these new principles

were already in place in Ho Chi Minh City.
Population pressures after the war
meant that alleyways were the only
way the city could meet the densities
needed to sustain itself. Generations
of Vietnamese were raised in these
environments where there was and still
is a constant awareness of neighbours.
When given a chance, many were
happy to relocate to the high-rise
apartments that now populate the city
skyline. Yet the alleyways and close
proximity also bred strong communities
where knowing your neighbour also
allowed you to help out in times of
need, and reduced crime through local
vigilance. The alleyways limited size
made them easy to navigate on motorbike,
and shops and small restaurants created
on the ground floor served the needs of
the local residents.
The alleyways offer not only
community and connectedness but
also climate modification, as their very
narrowness provides protection from
the sun. They give what is called a deep
canyon effect. Despite the fact that Ho
Chi Minh City has a humid climate where
daytime and night-time temperature
difference is not significant, nevertheless,
direct sunlight is prevented from reaching
the lower areas and wind movement
across the top of the alleyway draws heat
out thus making the alleyways up to 6
degrees cooler. This saving of energy is
shared by the whole community.
BY ED HAYSOM
Identity and Interaction

In our rush to modernise we need to
be mindful of the good things the past
has provided as well as the bad. When
building our high-rises we need to be
aware of the social benefits that close-knit
communities can give.
We must give our communities clear
and distinctive identities. This identity
must be communicated through the
urban plan, the design of the streets
and the buildings, both community and
private. By providing choices for people
in housing types and strengthening the
public areas we can give better outcomes
to all that are part of our community.
We need to design communities
attractively by encouraging interaction
rather than ignoring it. Architects have
a key role in creating these places of
interaction by their unique training and
creative approach.
If we just let things happen, we are
merely passing on problems to the
generation ahead instead of fixing them
ourselves. While the simpler values of
the older era still hold appeal, through
skilled design and urban planning we
can ensure our future communities
can accommodate todays values and
lifestyle. Quality of life starts with quality
of design.
Ed Haysom is the general director of
Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in
Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on
ehaysom@modehaysomarchitects.com
HCMC
On The Town
to complement the old and

new world wines.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its

cocktails and wine list. It
serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly
decorated interior. Regular
DJ nights.
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
in Saigon. Using own grown
and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and
Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
AGNES CAFE
DALAT COFFEE HOUSE
11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)

6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up
tasty breakfasts, lunch and
dinner all the way through
until 9pm.
BANKSY CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1,
Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,

Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
CAFE THOAI VIEN
159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find

yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
COFFEE BEAN &
TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,

Q1; Metropolitan Building,
235 Dong Khoi, Q1
coffeebean.com.vn
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to

relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is well-priced
and maintains a creative flair.
art gallery out back. Second

location on Le Loi.
I.D. CAF
facebook.com/m2ccafe
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben

Thanh Market, i.d offers casual caf dining with a wide
variety of food and beverages. Where modern design
and a warm ambience meet
for coffee.
Large portioned coffee lures

customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere
is bolstered by comfortable
seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,

this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR
23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909

824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice
bar and caf dedicated
to healthy, nutricious
smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment
adds to the theme.
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,

Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building

with an outdoor courtyard,
At M2C (Modern Meets

Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS

DECIBEL
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING

6685 4160
klasik.coffee
Nitro cold brew coffee, single origin coffee and healthy

food. Klasik Coffee Roasters
is a small coffee shop with
a passion for seeking high
quality coffee beans from
around the world to roast
in Saigon. Holding the belief
that each cup tells its own
story, drinking coffee at
Klasik is all about pleasure
and experience: the aroma,
the taste, the warmth and the
senses inspired by each and
every cup. Open daily from
7am to 10pm.
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1,

Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le
Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor

compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
Sitting atop of a number of

cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for
a romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
PLANTRIP CHA
TEA ROOM
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

Tel: 0945 830905
Tea, tea and more tea, all in
a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha
customers go on a sensory
journey to experience the
tastes and smells of teas
from across Asia, Europe,
America and the Middle East.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS
49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)

3602 6385
Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye
dcor helps create the cafstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced caf and
restaurant. Sells excellent
coffee and if you like bagels,
here youll be in heaven.
THE MORNING CAFE
2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick

a bright spot by the win-
dow and get snuggly with

the comfy upholstery in
this second-floor cafe. With
a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an
afternoon well-spent.
THE OTHER
PERSON CAFE
2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by

maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
while spending an afternoon
in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
THE PRINT ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere to
chill out or read from their
book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open
table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
THINGS CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity

of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
The original, on-the-table
barbecue restaurant still
goes strong thanks to its
rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better
fish, seafood and meats. An
institution.
TOP EATS
MY CHICKEN RUN
he name threw me; I must be

honest My Chicken Run is
not a name to inspire culinary
confidence. Perhaps because
I have mucked out actual chicken
runs, I associate the name with, well,
unappetizing things.
Dont let it throw you. My Chicken Run is
one of the hidden gems of Ho Chi Minh City,
combining savoury, even unique food with
a fun atmosphere and great service, all at a
price that is very reasonable.
Youll know youre at the right place
when you see the large rotisserie oven on
the sidewalk, the first Ive seen this side of
the Pacific.
Rotisserie Novelty
Its the cleverest and most intriguing site in
the restaurant specially imported at great
price, it may be one of a kind in Vietnam.
For locals, its novelty attracts; for expats
like me, it glows with the aura of home. For
everyone, its radiates the drool-inducing
smell and sight of golden-brown chickens,
slowly rotating, brimming with juice.
Stepping in, owner Hau Wai Yan is there to
greet me with a handshake and a broad smile.
Yan is a genial hybrid, somehow the
perfect man to run a place like My Chicken
Run. The son of a Hong Kong father
and French mother, hes friendly and
expansive, trained at Lausanne and filled
with a passion for food.

As expected, hes put together a tasting
for me to showcase his restaurant at its
best. What I dont expect is the charm of
the man himself. Hes funny, interesting
and honest, with the slightly sideways
perspective that many people whove lived
in between countries and nationalities often
seem to develop.
Deja Food
Tucking into the quarter chicken
(VND75,000 / VND99,000 for the combo),
Im honestly transported. I grew up on
low-cost, high-quality rotisserie chicken
from the local Whole Foods, and by god,
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
its dj food from the first bite. The sides

are all high quality the mash is creamy
and smoother than butter, the veggies are
cooked but crunchy. The pork knuckle
(VND75,000 / VND99,000 for the combo)
initially made me wary because of a bad
experience once in Munich. These, however,
were meaty and juicy, fringed with tasty fat.
Yans interest in the history of food has led
him to resurrect recipes for fruit drinks made
in colonial days. The colonial soft drinks
(VND22,000, and available in four flavours)
take the cake for most interesting menu
item say what you will about colonialism,
those patrician imperialists could make a
mean mocktail.
My Chicken Run, Part Deux

In fact, so good was everything that I went
back about a week later so my girlfriend
could check it out, too.
Heres why I mentioned it; the first time
I was there, the owner sat with me, chatted
with me, assured Id have as perfect a
dining experience as possible. The second
time, we were just folks but the food
and service were every bit as good. And
the menu is expansive, with chicken, quail,
pork, salads and more.
One of the things I like most about My
Chicken Run is how well the dcor reflects
the owners personality. Its full of whimsy,
with glossy, high-quality prints of chickens
in all their majesty. The clean, bright reds

and yellows warm the restaurant.
Service, too, is top-notch. Yan insists on
training his people properly, and vets them
personally for the right character. The
servers smile, hustle and keep the place
clean and welcoming.
For value, My Chicken Run is probably
in the top 10 restaurants in the city, with
fresh, delicious, home-made meals at a
very attractive price. Owen Salisbury
My Chicken Run is located at 162 Nguyen
Van Thu, Q1, HCMC. Its open from 6am to
10pm
AMAZING GRAPES
WINE CONQUISTADORS
ine is a constantly evolving

product; in the glass, in the
bottle and in the vineyard.
Innovation, experimentation and
the will to constantly improve is the mantra
that winemakers live by. This is especially
the case in the modern Spanish wine world.
Spain is currently the most dynamic wine
producing country in the world.
Wine production is nothing new in
Spain it has been produced on the
Iberian peninsula for more than 3,000
years. The most planted grape variety in
the world is a native Spanish grape called
airen, and Spain is the third largest wine
BY JIM CAWOOD
This dedication to native Spanish grapes

has paid off. Winemakers experimented
like crazy to see what could be achieved
with their autochthonous varieties.
They worked in the vineyards, in the
bodegas, tried different types of oak and
fermentations; they were not restrained
by tradition but rather seeking to create
a new world order. Like the crucible that
has been Spanish gastronomy over the last
15 years, Spanish wine has been breaking
conventional rules and boundaries. The
results have been impressive.
The rustic old-fashioned image is dead.
Spanish wines are now truly avant garde.
Like the crucible that has been

Spanish gastronomy over the last 15
years, Spanish wine has been breaking
conventional rules and boundaries. The
results have been impressive
Made in Spain. Alcoholic volume: 14.5%
producer in the world. With such a varied

climate almost all grape varieties can be
successfully grown in Spain. There are
more than 400 grape varieties planted there
comprising of international varieties such
as chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon as
well as hundreds of native varieties such
as tempranillo and verdejo. Unfortunately
most people no little more about Spanish
wine than rioja or sherry.
Things are changing; Spain is hot right
now! Under the Franco dictatorship from
1939 to 1975, the Spanish wine industry
languished. Spain had become know
for producing low quality, rustic and
inexpensive red wines and fortifieds.
Many vineyards were in tatters and
wineries were old and lacked modern
equipment. In the years after Franco
Spanish society flourished. Investment
poured into the wine industry and there
was a new lease of life. It would have
been easy for winemakers to replant new
vineyards full of popular varieties like
chardonnay, cabernet and syrah, which
could be easily sold on the export market.
While this did happen to some vineyards,
for the most part the proud Spanish set
about re-inventing and nurturing native
varieties like monastrell, tempranillo,
mencia, bobal, verdejo and albario.
Every style imaginable is produced from

unique varieties that create equally special
wines. These wines are breaking new
ground and are no longer restrained like
Spanish food once was. Modern Spanish
wines belong with all the great cuisines of
the world. The new wine world order is
here and its time to get acquainted with
modern vino. Vamos!
Castao Hecula Monastrell 2014

The Castao family have been one of
the leading pioneers of the revival of the
monastrell (mourvedre) grape in southern
Spain. Due to perseverance, dedication
and generations of knowledge, they
have been responsible for the varietys
recognition in export markets. They have
turned monastrell from what was once
regarded as a blending grape into a proud
standalone variety. The 2014 Hecula
Monastrell is just this. Bold and powerful
with intense black and blue fruit flavours,
pepper, cloves and spice, and a long,
long smooth finish. A very impressive
wine that can easily outclass many wines
triple its price. Regularly scoring above
90 points from Robert Parker, its time to
stock up the cellar with this little beauty.
Jim Cawood is a trained sommelier and is also
man-at-the-helm of Saigon restaurant, Lubu
HCMC
On The Town
27 GRILL
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular

views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
is a real draw, with steaks
and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive
wine list make up the mix.
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL

38238424
mezzes, plus coffees and

juices served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and
green-tiled dcor.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

(08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu
Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.
com
Long-running, award-winning
Indian restaurant famed for
its excellent kebabs, creamy
curries and Chinese-Indian
fare.
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of one

of Vietnams most successful
restaurant chains, Al Frescos
offers international, Australian-influenced comfort
fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly
service to match. Also has
an excellent garden-style
branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820
7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to

the city's best Churrasco
menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through
to D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in
Vietnam, passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a caipirinha or five.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European

caf fare think deli-style
sandwiches, salads and
BABAS KITCHEN
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian

does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.
BLACK CAT
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers,

tasty Vietnamese-styled
sandwiches, spiced up
cocktails, mains and more,
all served up with a Californian edge at this small but
popular two-storey eatery
close to the river.
BLANCHY STREET
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN
The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba

Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793
The work of former Nobu
chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion
cuisine at Blanchy Street
is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All
complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy
terrace out front.
BAHDJA
2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3
Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.
com
Located just above the Thai
restaurant Spice, Bahdja is
Saigons first ever Algerian
restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and
served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced
in a group, this pleasant
restaurants soothing ambience is matched by the owners genuine hospitality and
complimented by an array of
tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely
semi-outdoor terrace area.
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior

Compound, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6790
A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new
management and a new
menu think American-style
burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex
together with soup and salad
and youll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen
margaritas.
BOOMARANG BISTRO
SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,

Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and

bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)

3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vi-
etnamese cuisine with a

French twist, cooked fresh to
order. Dishes include noodle
soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
CHIS CAF
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity in

the backpacker area for its
genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own
breakfasts, baked potatoes,
toasties, Vietnamese fare and
more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.
CHRIS FOOD ONLINE
TRADITIONAL FRENCH / DESSERTS
Tel: 0909 365525 (English) /

0909 320717 (French)
chrisfoodonline.blogspot.
com or facebook.com/muasaleoff2014
Traditional French cuisine and

exotic dishes from the Reunion Island served up in Ho Chi
Minh City and delivered to
your door. All dishes are prepared with fresh ingredients,
nothing is frozen. Options include cheesecake, tiramisu,
lasagna, chicken curries and
muffin. All speciality foods
are cooked to order.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN

3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty

and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff
and rustic bare brick walls
adorned with Hollywood film
legends make for a relaxed
and attractive setting.
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE

3837 1311
A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that
over the past decade has
quite rightly gained a strong
local and expat following. Try
their pad thai to die for.

CORSO
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant,

the enticing range of US and
Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu
in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.
Decent-sized steaks start at
VND390,000.
ELBOW ROOM
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style

diner ranges from meatball
baguettes to chilli burgers,
pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of
more expensive international
mains.
EL GAUCHO
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The
Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A themed eatery mixing

an Argentinian steakhouse
theme with pork, chicken,
lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can
come off a grill. Slick service,
a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end
of the meal. Probably serves
up the best steak in town.
EON51 FINE DINING
TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN
Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai

Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Situated on level 51 of the

most iconic building in
town, Eon51 Fine Dining
offers a unique fine dining
experience accompanied by
unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The
sky-high restaurant proffers
the taste of Europe in Asia,
orchestrated from the finest
local foods and top-quality
imported ingredients.
HCMC
On The Town
GANESH
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce

is thick and creamy and the
curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated
by many as the best Indian
in town. Very friendly service.
HOA TUC
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba

Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676
Highly rated restaurant with
stunning outdoor terrace.
Specialities include pink
pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls,
fishcake wraps and barbecue
chicken in ginger, onions and
a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 1101; The Crescent, 103
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08)
2210 2304
If youre looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese
restaurants that just seem
to do every dish perfectly,
then Hoang Yen really is the
place to go. The atmosphere
may be a bit sterile, but its
amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent
cuisine. Now with a number
of restaurants around town.
HOGS BREATH CAF
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such

as burgers, salads and prime
rib steaks with a sports bar
atmosphere, this Australian
chain also offers regular
promotions and a 4pm to
7pm happy hour. Excellent
outdoor terrace.
INAHO
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3829 0326
A sushi bar needs a good
chef, and the chef-owner of
Inaho is one of the best. Sit
downstairs at the low-key
bar or upstairs in the private
VIP rooms. Either way, this
is one of the best sushi and
sashimi joints in town.
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba

Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant,

the international offerings
here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor
terrace area, and a good
kids menu. Check out their
pepper steaks.
KABIN
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel,
815 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet

Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with
striking dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from
VND80,000 to VND900,000.
KOH THAI
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty
French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust,
bistro-style cuisine is very
well-priced, and excellent,
cheap house wine is served
by the carafe.
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION
Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le

Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics
alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thais
creative cocktails merge Thai
flavours with local seasonal
fruits and herbs.
KOTO TRAINING
RESTAURANT
3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho

Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3822 9357
The restaurant associated
with the KOTO vocational
training school. All the
staff from bar tenders
and waiting staff through
to the chefs come from
disadvantaged backgrounds
and are being trained on the
jon in hospitality. Serves up
tasty Vietnamese cuisine,
to boot!
LOLIVIER
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic

atmosphere with its tiled
veranda, pastel-coloured
walls and ficus trees, this
traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star
promotions and an award
winning pastry team.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08)

2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in

white specialises in a mix
of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.
Has a small but well thought
out menu, backed up with
an extensive wine list.
LE CORTO
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08)

3822 0671
facebook.com/LeCorto
Open for lunch and set dinner, this beautifully designed

restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and
with classic. With a menu
cooked up by reputed chef
Sakal Phoeung, and with a
contemporary twist to traditional French fare, this is a
place to enjoy the luxuries
of fine cuisine and even finer
wine.
MARKET 39
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel,

(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
One of the top three buffet restaurants in town.

Although the selection is
small, the meats, fishes and
seafoods are all fresh, and
everything you eat here is
quality.
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)

3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,

plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and
awesome chicken curry, as
well as specialities like frog
porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
LOVEAT
MEDITERRANEAN
29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08)

6260 2727
loveat.vn
Located bang opposite the

Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves
up three floors worth of
Mediterranean cuisine mixed
in with continental favourites
like moules frites. A great
place for dinner, cocktails
and wines in a contemporary
Saigon atmosphere.
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le

Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
a darkwood, aircon interior.

Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by
some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all
with a European influence.
Also has an extensive wine
list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy
hour.
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)

6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from the

great cuisines of Europe, The
Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed
in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)

3825 1330
A typical Vietnamese-style
quan nhau, this fan-cooled
downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two
things: its on the table,
grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo
(marinated beef) and oddities such as sauted scorpion. A great place to take
out-of-town guests.
MAD HOUSE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR,
RESTAURANT
6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3519 4009
facebook.com/madsaigon
Set over a pool in a leafy,

tropical garden, the beautiful
rustic dcor is matched by
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai

Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MAY RESTAURANT
INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.
com
Casual yet stylish, May places

international-style wining
and dining in the heart of
historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an
extensive wine and cocktail
list, and beautifully crafted
comfort food from Europe,
the Antipodes and Asia all
make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar.
Check out their set lunches
and happy hour.
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /
SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant
has long been the place in
An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine
includes gourmet seafood
and pastas. Bakery-style
Bistro out front.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)

6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably
priced, with healthy juices
and smoothies.
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE

(08) 38 250261; 116 Suong
Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 9996
namgiao.com
If you want to take friends,

relatives or people out of
town to eat Hue-style street
food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam
Giao is the place. Not only
is it well-priced, but the bun
bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com
hen, banh bot loc and other
such dishes are excellent.
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04,

Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then
Osaka Ramen is noodle soup
heaven. A typically Japanese
aircon environment mixes
bar-style seating with booths
and private dining. Open late.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN

3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh,
Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large,

leafy terracotta-tiled garden
area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up
quality homemade pasta,
risotto, gnocchi, excellent
pizza and grilled dishes. Has
a second branch in District 2.
PITCHERS SPORTS
AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT
C0.01 Riverside Residence C,

Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel:
(08) 6274 1520
facebook.com/PitchersPMH
Located in the heart of Phu
My Hung, this spacious
restobar with an affection
for showing televised sports
has a family friendly edge
thanks to its kids play area.
Does a great grill menu and
of course, lots of very cold
beer for those developing a
thirst in the Saigon heat.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

(08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated

Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna
curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.
POP FRIES
CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES
14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel:

0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich
Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938
754851
A street food eatery concept
that originates from Los
Angeles and New York, and
born from a passion for sharing, here its all about the
loaded fries. The potatoes
are twice-cooked and come
piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Funky dcor and long benches make
up the mix.
PROPAGANDA
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO
21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery,
Propaganda serves up classic
Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls
interposed with Propaganda
Art murals and prints.
RACHA ROOM
CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR
12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08)
6253 7711
theracharoom.com
The Racha Room delivers

Thai accented Pan-Asian
cuisine with a focus on high
quality ingredients. Racha
features a large selection of
spirits at a seated bar and
high table to ensure drinking
along with eating remains
central to the experience.
The current and future of
Asian-inspired drinking and
dining is right here at the
Racha Room.
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,

Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo
Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829
1515
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality, chicly designed
eatery where all food is
served in traditional crockery.
One of the best Vietnamese
restaurants in town.
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades

this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once
housed the citys opium refinery. The cuisine runs from
creative salads through to
Mediterranean influenced
mains.
RIVERSIDE CAF
QUAN UT UT
US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)

3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
Its a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan

nhau-style setting. Of course
it is, which is why Quan Ut
Ut is constantly packed with
sanfulou.com
RELISH & SONS

GOURMET BURGER BAR
44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187
relishandsons.com
Relish & Sons burgers are

lovingly made with a healthy
food philosophy in mind and
fresh high quality ingredients. The beef patties are
100% Australian grass-fed;
the buns are made with a
reduced sugar and salt content. Burger relishes such
as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch.
SAFFRON
PAN-MEDITERRANEAN
REFINERY
QUAN BUI
Tel: (08) 3823 9513
grill-obsessed diners going

for the burgers, meats off
the barbecue and Platinum
pale ale served on tap.
Renaissance Riverside, 815

Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining
of international quality, with
the bonus of being able to
watch the action on the river
sidewalk. Features western,
Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

3824 8358
Sporting food from around
the Mediterranean rim, this
compact and cozy eatery
with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with
expats and tourists alike.
Reservations advised.
SAIGON CAF
Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese

dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a
space that takes Chinese
dining in Saigon to a new
level. And if you like your
dim sum, look no further.
SEOUL HOUSE
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor bar
and separate dining room
with sweeping views over
central Saigon make up
this enormous, comfortable
space. A well-thought out
and romantic venue, with
excellent food.
KOREAN

3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
The longest running Korean

restaurant in town, with all
the Koreans moving out to the
hinterland, the clientele here
are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation
remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining.
SHANG PALACE
RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly

Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes

and 50 kinds of dim sum
prepared by chefs from Hong
Kong, Shang Palace has nine
private dining rooms and
a main dining area seating
over 300. Good for events.
STOKER
CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE
44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08)
3826 8691
stokerwoodfiredgrill.com
One of the worlds oldest

culinary techniques grilling over a wood fire. Stoker
kitchen uses different woods
to infuse foods with different
smoky flavours. These techniques revolutionize live fire
cooking by providing precise
heat control through the
use of a grilling surface that
can be adjusted to different
cooking heights above the
hot coals.
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi,

Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is

gargantuan, with every type
of option under the sun. A
great place to catch up on
your seafood addiction or to
pig out over a Sunday brunch.
SAN FU LOU
CANTONESE KITCHEN
Ground Floor, AB Building,

76A Le Lai, Q1
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini

carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb
chop skewers. Also has an
excellent upstairs cigar room.
SORAE
SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE
Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai,

Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
soraesushi.com
Set over two floors, this

astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant
and lounge brings to Saigon
the type of environment and
ambience youd expect of
New York, Singapore, Hong
Kong and Dubai. With the
dcor comes a modern take
on Japanese fare. A place to
see and be seen.
A WORLD
OF
MEANING WHAT YOU SAY
eve looked at ill-defined

terminology before. The
non-profit sector not only
loves its jargon (MEAL policy,
anyone?) but what about those popular
and hazy words that sound like they
really nail something on the head, but upon
closer inspection collapse under the weight
of their lofty ambitions. Building capacity
or sustainability or delivering impact
(ack!) are all suspect terms and rightfully so.
Theyre overused and defined so broadly
as to become meaningless. Ill offer up
empowerment to demonstrate what I mean.
Empowerment was (yes, past tense) a
beautiful word signifying the demand for
social justice in racial politics, for women,
for ethnic minorities, and any others seeking
to express their diversity and rights before
the eyes of the law. Now empowerment has
come to encapsulate your freedom to post a
selfie with or without clothing, your ability to
choose (and thereby endorse) one flavoured
water over another, or even manage your
carefully curated online clicktivism.
Resiliency
Heres another term: resiliency. This is a
word that is about to be co-opted right out
of context and Id like to start a campaign
to save it. Sustainability, empowerment
and capacity-building are wonderful words
that have sadly grown meaningless (like

to curate, for that matter) as they become
buzz words entering the diluting waters of
the mainstream. A daycare delivers social
impact via your childs targeted learning
outcomes while empowering little Olivia
and Jack to reach their full potential because
interacting with mud pies builds their
capacity. Uhm, OK.
In development circles resiliency is a
remarkable word because in short, it refers
to communities ability to get along just fine
without too many donors and aid workers
hovering around telling folks what to do.
The UK medical journal The Lancet dryly
observed not long after the earthquake in
Haiti that aid agencies are increasingly acting
according to their own best interests rather
than in the interests of individuals whom
they claim to help.
The authors further described large aid
agencies as being "highly competitive"
with one another and "obsessed with
raising money" and worse, are polluted
by the internal power politics and the
unsavoury characteristics seen in many
big corporations. This tough criticism
was aimed directly at the earthquake relief
efforts, but the point is the same: a West
knows best stance helps no one. There was
little to no collaboration with the existing
grassroots charities that likely have better
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
networks and as such are better placed

to immediately implement relief efforts.
Resiliency is acknowledging the inherent
ability of others and is related to their agency,
experience and context. It sounds simple, but
it can be extraordinarily difficult to untangle
our own egocentricity.
An Insider Approach
In my campaign for keeping resiliency
in its proper (read, awesome) context it
may be useful to adopt an emic approach,
defined anthropologically as an insider
perspective. What does the community
have going on for itself and within its
individuals? This stands in opposition to
an etic approach, typified by an outsider
perspective imposing itself on explanations
of the community and its behaviour.
By giving voice acknowledging
resiliency we fundamentally shift the
perception of an individuals or communitys
ability to thrive. Thats a campaign Im happy
to champion.
So no, while your dietary choices, for
example, might be emic, ordering only
low-cal, gluten-free, raw foods do not
demonstrate your resiliency.
Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an
award-winning nonprofit social enterprise
and vocational training programme for at-risk
youth
HCMC
On The Town
TAMAGO
TIN NGHIA
PAN-JAPANESE
VEGAN
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag in

Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon,

the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one
of the citys best-preserved
buildings. Serving quality
Vietnamese and Indochine
cuisine at reasonable prices.
9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08)

3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
M M M
STREET FOOD
BA GHIEN
COM TAM
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan
MODERN ASIAN FUSION
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)

3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon

River across from Thanh Da
Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern
Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE
144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and

more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty
through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
BANH MI THANH
MAI HOANG
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
107 Truong Dinh, Q3

BANH TAM BI TO CHAU
VESPER GOURMET
LOUNGE
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton

Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a
sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting
and a great spirit selection.
Serves creative, Japanese and
German-influenced cuisine to
supplement the drinks and
has a separate dining space.
Alleyway to the left of 162

Tran Nhan Tong, Q10
BANH CANH HOANG TY
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE
WRAP & ROLL

3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De
Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and

bright pastel colours of Wrap
n Roll are just part of the
theme of this homegrown,
Vietnamese brand which is
all about spring rolls of all
types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1

PHO DAU
PHO BO
288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
BANH TAM
271 Nguyen Trai, Q1

BO KHO
NAM GIAO
BUN BO HUE
BA NAM
PHO HOA
PHO BO & PHO GA
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
260C Pasteur, Q3
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh

Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
PHO LE
BUN CHA HA NOI
PHO PHU GIA
Namsonsteak.com
PHO BO
413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5
70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BANH CUON HAI NAM

BANH CUON
BUN CHA
PHO BO
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3
CHI THONG
PHO PHU VUONG
11A Cao Thang, Q3

BANH KHOT CO
BA VUNG TAU
BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI
PHO BO
195 Co Giang, Q1
339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh
COM GA XOI MO SU SU
SUSHI KO
BANH KHOT
102 Cao Thang, Q3

THE DECK
170 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BANH MI HONG HOA
VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN
STREET SUSHI
55 Tu Xuong, Q3
122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4
COM TAM 40A
THE LUNCH LADY
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1
COM TAM
BANH MI HUYNH HOA
23 Hoang Sa, Q1
MI QUANG MY SON
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
LESBIAN BANH MI
26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1
MI QUANG
BANH MI SAU MINH
DAILY CHANGING DISHES
40A Quoc Huong, Q2
38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3821 7751
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental

Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
THE SOCIETY
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR
3914 3999
facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of

place found in Hong Kong,
London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to
its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings
dining and drinking to a new
level. Phenomenal cocktails,
steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go
for drinks, a full-blown meal
or a mixture of both.
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)

3837 3248
The service is often slow, and
the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here
is so good and so unique to
this city, that no-one seems
to mind. The perfect place
to feast out on gyros and all
things off a skewer. Cheap,
too.
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf

and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
BRIDALWEAR
3 Thang 2 C1
PAINTINGS
Tran Phu D1
Bui Vien D3
CAMERAS
Ton That Thiep C4
CAC
H
ung
Hoa H
A NG
District 11
2km
Ban
h
Min
2
NG
THA
Ba
n
hQ
uy
en
Ng
DIE
LY THA
I
G
HT
HAN
Vuon Chuoi
Market
Tha
n
Co
hie
hC
uy e
nT
hie
n
Ng
Thu
at
uy
in
nD
Ha
on
nS
ye
u
Ng
EN
UY
NG
TO
AI
KH
H
N
I
I M Chanh
TH am Viet
Ph
U
PH
AN
R
T
Teacher
Training
University
U
AN D
G
VUON
yen
n Trai
Binh
Bieu
Tran
DISTRICT 5
Ng u y e
Ngu
WEDDING SERVICES
Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1
ONG
CU
VAN
G
HUN
University of
Natural
Sciences
NG
VUO
YEN
STATIONERY
Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3
Tron
Ch
uo
i
N GU
SPORTSWEAR
Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3
Binh Tay
Market 3km
AU
HI S
T
O
LY
CHI
N
Ca
o
Tra
n
Quan
Tho
ng
Vu
on
t
n Da
TAM
Than
h
DISTRICT 10
h Ma
H uyn
GUITARS
Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, D2
Ng u
yen
Tron
FLOWERS
Le Thanh Ton C4
Minh
Quye
n
uyen
Binh
FABRICS
Hai Ba Trung A3
KH
OI
NG
HI
Dinh
Tran
EVERYTHING
Ben Thanh Market C4
nh
Van
Tran
Lan Anh Sports

& Leisure Club
NG
SHOES
Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2
Luu Van Lang C4
KY
ong
MA N
G TH
PHO
COOKING INGREDIENTS
Ham Nghi C4, C5
H uy
Saigon Train
Station
Minh
Quye
n
Tan Binh
0.5km
ng
SEAFOOD
Vinh Khanh D4, D5
NG
Thao
Truo
ng
ONG
LE H
COMPUTERS
Ton That Tung C2, C3
Quoc
Ba H
han To
SAFES
Vo Van Tan C3
NA
M
Ky
D
B
Tran
Tran
Tran Van Dang
PLAQUES
Nam Quoc Cang C2, D2
CAR COMPONENTS
Tran Quang Khai A3
Ky Con C4, D4
PHU
ROI
PH
U
MOTORBIKES
Ly Tu Trong C3
YEN
VAN
T
INH
Le V
an S
y
BIKE MAINTENANCE
Nguyen Du C3
Huy
uynh
nh Van Banh
B IE
N
LUGGAGE
Le Lai C3, C4
N GU
PHA
ND
ien
gH
on
hu
ARMY SURPLUS
Dan Sinh Market D4
uy
anh
Th
JAPANESE RESTAURANTS
Le Thanh Ton B4, B5
Do
ANTIQUES
Le Cong Kieu C4
in
Ch
T
en
uy
Ng
A2
A4
A5
C4, D4
B3, B4
C2, C3
D4, E4
A3
B5
B5, C5
C4
D5, E5
B5, C5
C4, C5
C4
C2, C3
D1, E1, E2
D2
B4
D2, D3
D3, E1, E2
A1, B1
A3
A2
B1, C1
D1
A3
D1
A2, A3
B1, B2, B3
A2, B2
B1
B2, B3, C3
B3
A4, A5
B2
E3, E4, E5
D4, D5
A3, B2, B3
B3, C2
C2
A5
E5
C4, D4
Ng
D
en
Tran Huy Lieu
Phan Dinh Phung

Phan Ke Binh
Phan Van Han
Pho Duc Chinh
Phung Khac Khoan
Suong Nguyet Anh
Tan Vinh
Thach Thi Thanh
Thai Van Lung
Thi Sach
Thu Khoa Huan
Ton Dan
Ton Duc Thang
Ton That Dam
Ton That Thiep
Ton That Tung
Tran Binh Trong
Tran Canh Chan
Tran Cao Van
Tran Dinh Xu
Tran Hung Dao
Tran Huy Lieu
Tran Khac Chan
Tran Khanh Du
Tran Minh Quyen
Tran Nhan Tong
Tran Nhat Duat
Tran Phu
Tran Quang Khai
Tran Quoc Thao
Tran Quoc Toan
Tran Van Dang
Truong Dinh
Truong Quyen
Truong Sa
Tu Xuong
Vinh Hoi
Vinh Khanh
Vo Thi Sau
Vo Van Tan
Vuon Chuoi
Xo Viet Nghe Tinh
Xom Chieu
Yersin
Tran N
3 Thang 2
C1
Alexandre de Rhodes
B4
An Duong Vuong
D1
Ba Huyen Thanh Quan
B2, C3
Ban Co
C1
Ben Chuong Duong D3, D4, E2, E3
Ben Van Don
D4, D5, E3
Bui Thi Xuan
C3
Bui Vien
D3
Cach Mang Thang Tam B1, C2, C3
Calmette
C4
Calmette
D4
Cao Ba Nha
D3
Cao Thang
C1, C2, D2
Chu Manh Trinh
B4, B5
Co Bac
D3
Co Giang
D3, D4
Cong Quynh
D3
De Tham
C3, D3
Dien Bien Phu
A4, B3, C1, C2
Dinh Cong Trang
A3
Dinh Tien Hoang
A4, B4
Do Quang Dau
D3
Do Thanh
C1
Doan Nhu Hai
D5
Doan Van Bo
D5
Dong Du
C5
Dong Khoi
B4, C4, C5
Hai Ba Trung A2, A3, B3, B5, C5
Hai Trieu
C5
Ham Nghi
C4
Han Thuyen
B4
Ho Hao Hon
D3
Ho Tung Mau
C4, C5
Ho Xuan Huong
C2
Hoa Hung
B1
Hoang Dieu
D4, D5, E3
Hoang Sa
A4, A5
Huyen Tran Cong Chua
C3
Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh
A5
Huynh Man Dat Dist. 5
E1
Huynh Thuc Khang
C4
Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh
A5
Huynh Tinh Cua Dist. 3
A2
Huynh Van Banh
A1, A2
Khanh Hoi
D4, E4
Ky Con
C4, D4
Ky Dong
B2
Le Cong Kieu
C4
Le Duan
B4, B5
Le Hong Phong
D1
Le Lai
C3
Le Loi
C4
Le Quoc Hung
D4, D5
Le Quy Don
B3
Le Thanh Ton
B4, B5, C3, C4
Le Thi Hong Gam
C4, D4
Le Thi Rieng
C3
Le Van Sy
A1
Luong Huu Khanh
C2
Luu Van Lang
C4
Ly Chinh Thang
B2
Ly Thai To
D1
Ly Tu Trong
B4, B5, C3, C4
Mac Dinh Chi
B4
Mac Thi Buoi
C5
Mai Thi Luu
A4
Me Linh
A5
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia
A2, B3, C4
Ngo Duc Ke
C5
Ngo Thoi Nhiem
B2, B3, C2
Ngo Van Nam

B5
Nguyen Bieu
E2
Nguyen Binh Khiem
A4, B5
Nguyen Cong Tru
C4, C5, D4
Nguyen Cu Trinh
D2, D3
Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4, B4, C2, C3,
D1
Nguyen Dinh Chinh
A1
Nguyen Du
B4, C3
Nguyen Gia Thieu
B3
Nguyen Hue
C4, C5
Nguyen Huu Canh
B5
Nguyen Huu Cau
A3
Nguyen Huy Tu
A4
Nguyen Khac Nhu
D3
Nguyen Khoai
E3
Nguyen Ngoc Phuong
A5
Nguyen Phi Khanh
A3
Nguyen Sieu
B5, C4, C5
Nguyen Son Ha
C2
Nguyen Tat Thanh
D5
Nguyen Thai Binh
C4, D4
Nguyen Thai Hoc
C3, D3
Nguyen Thi Dieu
C2, C3
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5, B3, B4,
C2, C3, D2
Nguyen Thien Thuat
C1
Nguyen Thong
B1, B2
Nguyen Thuong Hien
C2
Nguyen Trai
C3, D2, E1
Nguyen Trung Truc
C4
Nguyen Truong To
D5
Nguyen Van Cu
D2, E2
Nguyen Van Lac
A5
Nguyen Van Mai
A2
Nguyen Van Nguyen
A2
Nguyen Van Thu
A4, B3, B4
Nguyen Van Troi
A1
Pasteur
B3, B4
Pasteur
C4
Pham Hong Thai
C3
Pham Ngoc Thach
B3
Pham Ngu Lao
C3, D3
Pham Viet Chanh
D2
inh
1
PHU NHUAN
A
yen
Ngu
Tran Huy Lieu
HCMC
Map
Airport
3km
h
Chin
Dinh
O
UNG DA
TRAN H
Toan
Tran Quoc
P ha
m
ho
oT
Ng
hie
iN
NA
M
Tru
ong
m
gu
y
gu
MANN
G TH
nD
ye
Ch
inh
A NG
Huy
en
Tra
n
Du
Ng
Kh
oa
Hua
ong
u Tr
Ly T
inh
h
han
Le T
uy
Lu
hang
uc K
h Th
Le Cong Kieu
inh
HAM NGHI
en
Nguy
Don
Tru
Cong
Huynh Man Dat
NNEL
THU THIEM TU
Don
Van
uoc
H un
g
VinaExpress - The
Hydrofoil Service
N
Doan
i
hu Ha
g
Hoan
Dieu
Vung Tau
H
HA N
Van
ieu
Doa
nV
an B
u
D ie
u
D ie
inh
B en
Tr
Hai
oi
T
TAT
Le Q
V
Tan
ong
oD
Kh
e
cK
YEN
g
uon
oi
hH
an
Du
ng
Hoa
i
hoa
B en
ng
huo
Ng
To
ong
Tru
ng D
huo
Kh
t
ha
ghiep
uan N
Do
ng
HU
E
B en
ng
Hoa
nK
uy e
P
ua
Ho H
y en
Ng u
C
B en
N GU
Dan Sinh
Market
ru
g T Ky C
on
Con
Ng
Ch
UY
EN
o
Bu
r
teu
Pa s
en
guy
iB
Tha
Huyn
NG
iep
Th
i
Th
Du
am
I
LO
LE
t
ha
c
Ma
n Na m
nh
ha
hK
Nh
T
Ton
ang
nL
Va
Vinh
Cha
n
An
ng
Do
tD
Co
ac
h
Opera
House
on
hT
Saigon Bridge
& Highway 1
3km
Ton Duc Thang

Museum
u
Sie
en
uy Thi
g
N
S
Tha
n
G ia
an
Th
TR
UN
G
HU
Vin
Ba
st
eur
HIA
Ca
o
oi
Ngo V
a
Tha
iV
an
Lu
ng
Tra
i
Kh
BA
EN
UY
AN
UC
on
hT
in
Ch
Bac
n
ha
eT
NG
TH
AN
G
te
ian
HA
I
UC
Tri
nh
Du
et
lm
Ca
G
Co
Xu
en
guy
am
si
Yer
Ho
gG
Hon
uM
anh
TO
ND
ng
ro
uT
yL T
Tru
c
Ben Thanh
Market
hu
Ha
o
en
am
Th
De
Ho
en
DISTRICT 1
en
Tru
ng
Ton
C
HO
gu
ye
nK
ha
cN
Trinh
en Cu
Nguy
hi
eT
AI
TH
u
Da
ng
DA
NG
HU
Co
uy
Do
ng
Saigon
Bus Station
ien
Bui V
AN
TRN
Ng
EN
UY
Ph
a
Qu
Ng u
yen
ng
D
Th
u
PHAM HONG THAI
o
gu La
am N
uy
Du
Central
Post Office
Le
23/9 Park
ang
Dinh
Duc Ba
N
UA Cathedral
ED
rai
en T
Thai Binh
Market
Con
gQ
uyn
h
ho
Co
ng
NG
Le La
AN
DU
Zoo & Botanical

Gardens
UY
EN
BIN
HK
HIE
M
uc
nh
eR
s
de
Pa
Le La
y
Ng u
LE
Re-unification
Palace
Le Thi Rieng
Tun
g
HTV
Television
Ton
u
iX
Th
an
y en
NG
au
gM
Tun
i
Bu
Tra
n
Can
h
INH
AI
KH
Tru
o
Ngu
IM
Chi
L
30 Thang 4 yen
u
Park Han Th
Tan
Tao Dan
Park
nh
NG
TH
Ng
d
re
nd
xa
Ale
Labour Culture
Chu
HCMC
Palace
a
Conservatory
of Music
o
Ca
Ma
cD
inh
n
Va
EN
UY
I
HA
Ho
u
Ng
m
Tha
De
cC
ua
in
K
INH
st
eur
KH
OI
NG
HI
M
HI
Ch
Do
Cao T
hang
Kha
Quo
NG
E
UY
NT
Hoa Lu
Stadium
I NG
K HO
Huu
Na m
n
Va
Vo
n
Tra
KH
IEM
oD
Ph
Luo
ng
Th
at
cT
hao
hac
RU
N
OA
N
KY
g
on
Su
War Remnants
Museum
TAM
tA
ye
KY
ieu
N
Ba
Huy
en
ieu Than
D
hQ
hi
Tan
Ton
Quo
Ng
uy
en
Gia
Th
ieu
Din
h
T
en
iN
ho
o TL
Ng e Qu
yD
on
Pa
cT
BA
T
D
en
uy
Ng
hie
hC
BIN
H
NAM
n
Va
Vo
Tra
n
ng
uo
nH
a
u
oX
CAC
H
Tran
Ng
o
HA
I
en
hu
nT
Lu
u
District 7
& Nha Be
Kha
nh
DISTRICT 4
Ton D
an
IEN
HU
NP
BIE
Kh
ac
K
hoa
DISTRICT 3
ong
Xu
uy
NH
hi
inh
Saigon South
4km
Ch
ieu
AU
HI S
T
O
m
hie
Tu
Qu
yen
Ng
Va
TIE
eB
XO
Xo
m
DIN
H
P ha
nK
NG
UY
EN
Han
ANG
st
eur
AU
HI S
T
O
Ma
iT
H o an
g Sa
UC TH
Tru
ong
uc
Le Van Tam
Park
U
PH
IEN
B
Phu
N
ng
DIE
uo
c
nQ
Tra
Pa
uy
Tu
INH
E TPhan Van
TON D
Toa
n
Cua
hanh
nH
GH
TN
E
I
V
TON DUC T
HANG
c Chan
a
Tran Kh
Ca
u
uu
on
hC
Di n
Thi
T
uy e
g
on
ng
ra
gT
Ng
u
Ph
RUN
Ph
Truonng Sa
Hoang Sa
c
go
AT
an
Phan Va
Vann Ha
Han
N
en
Ly
V
Thac
h
5
BINH THANH
U
PH
uy
inh
n
Va
en
uy
Ng
Hi AI
a
B
DIE
N
BIE
Ng
hT
Tran Quang Khai

Nguyen Phi Khanh
Tran Quang Khai

Tan Dinh
Market
NG
HA
HT
N
CHI
LY Huyn
Duat
uy
en
Ng
uy
en
H
Ng
Tran Nhat
an
DINH TIEN HOANG
Ng
uy
en
V
Du
Tran Khannhh
Gia Dinh
Hospital
1.5km
The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY
CULTURE
10 Steps to
Knowing Foreigners
Wonder why you get a mix of reactions when you have encounters with your
Vietnamese hosts? Vu Ha Kim Vy explains why Vietnamese act as they do
when they meet a foreigner
an you introduce me to
an anh Tay? is the most
common question asked
by my Vietnamese single
friends when they discover I have been
working and socializing with foreigners
for about eight years. But to be honest,
many of us are not so interested in people
from overseas. My mother once told me:
You dont have to date a foreign guy.
Vietnamese guys are still good! I guess
all she wanted to say was that she was
afraid of the language barrier, the culture
clash and losing me if I moved to another
country.
Yet this article is not going to talk about
love or culture clashes or living overseas.
Instead, its about helping you, the
foreigner, understand how Vietnamese
people think, and it will explain why at
times we behave in a manner that might
seem a little weird.
So, here is what tends to go through the
Vietnamese mind when they come across
foreigners.
Stage 1: I want to say hello!

Dont worry if you are on your way to work
and Vietnamese people say Hello! to you.
They just regard you as a guest in their
country and want to show their hospitality.
Normally, they will end their comment with
a smile. This happens more when you visit
the countryside, as people there, especially
children, will generally all say hello to you.
All you need to do is say hello and smile
back. Not that difficult.
Stage 2: Oh, that price will not

hurt them.
As the US dollar fetches a lot of dong, some
of us still think foreigners are rich and that
its okay if we charge them more than the
locals. To deal with this, go to fixed-price
shops, supermarkets or go shopping with a
local friend.
Stage 3: He is so handsome.
People tend to wish for what they dont
have. Most Vietnamese prefer women
with fair skin; some believe that blond hair
and blue eyes are the two key factors of a
beautiful face. So dont be annoyed if some

of us stare at you or try to touch you. All it
means is that youre good looking. And if
they dont stare? Well, dont let it affect your
ego.
Stage 4: Lets practice English.

You have no idea how cool and nice I felt
when I was able to communicate with a
foreigner in English. This first happened
to me when I was in high school. It is
something that not so many people can do,
and it makes us feel special. To many of us,
especially students, foreigners are useful
just for practicing English so that they can
feel cool and hip. As a foreigner, you can
either stay away, or offer a little bit of help
by hanging around the parks where students
search out subjects to help them improve
their English. There are also some English
clubs in the town.
hearing a foreigner complaining about life

in Vietnam. Many of these foreigners have
been in Vietnam quite a long time. Everyone
in the area knows them and they can often
understand some Vietnamese. They know
where to stay, eat, buy and hang out on the
cheap. They get paid better than us, but they
are still not happy.
Stage 8: Stay away from me.

Vietnamese who make this statement usually
get frustrated and have been through bad
experiences with foreigners. It could be
problems at work, bad behaviour, money
scams or romantic relationships gone
wrong. During this stage, we tend to reduce
interactions with foreigners and limit our
communication with them. Depending on
the person, this stage may last for several
months. It may even last forever. In my case
it was several months.
Stage 5: We need a foreign

expert in this field.
Stage 9: Oh, they speak

Vietnamese so well.
Most of us believe that anything which

comes from overseas is better, especially
education, science and technology. Thats
why a large number of Vietnamese-owned
companies have foreign managers and
staff. This is not only to take advantage of
overseas knowledge, but also to expand
the market to the expat community. In this
scenario, if you can speak Vietnamese its a
real plus.
A foreigner who can speak Vietnamese

fluently always surprises us and makes us
smile. Some of us might speak Vietnamese
back to them, some of us might keep
speaking English. Then we might call them a
Vietnamese ghost or ma so meaning they
have been in Vietnam for a long time, know
everything about the country and can speak
the language. But dont get me wrong; you
are still a foreigner. It doesnt matter how
long you have been here or how fluently you
can speak the language, its the look that
matters.
Stage 6: Its not fair.

This is the complaint that most of my
university teaching friends make when they
discover that a foreign colleague gets paid
better than them, although that person may
only have a high school education. They
also envy the fact that foreigners can make
a living simply by teaching their mother
tongue (English), while Vietnamese have
to learn English to get a well-paid job. I
guess they just forget that there are a lot of
foreigners in Vietnam who want to learn
Vietnamese and are willing to pay well.
Stage 7: If you dont like it here,

you dont have to stay.
I have used this sentence several times after
Stage 10: Hey, how are you

doing?
This stage usually follows the stay away
from me stage, as after we have been
through good and bad experiences with
foreigners, we understand that what kind
of person someone is depends on their
personality, not their nationality. Then we
start to have close foreign friends who
speak a different language but understand
and treat us as like brothers and sisters.
Vietnamese people at this stage are
usually open-minded and are at ease with
foreigners.
The Final Say
Ten10
Few people have had as much influence on contemporary art in Vietnam as Suzanne
Lecht. Here in 10 short questions and answers is her story. Photo by Julie Vola
What brought you to Vietnam?
In July 1992 my beloved husband Charley
died in Tokyo. I stayed on for another
year reluctant to leave years of memory.
In September 1993 knowing I had to move
on with my life, I went to Hong Kong,
Shanghai, Beijing, Bangkok and Chiang Mai
seeking some passion.
Nothing was resonating. Then in
November 1993 I read an issue of Cathay
Pacifics in-flight magazine devoted to
Vietnam. Upon opening it my eyes fell
upon a startlingly beautiful photograph of
two very old Vietnamese men, their long,
wispy beards trailing to the ground, sipping
tea in the soft rain, fading ancient beauty
surrounding them in the Old Quarter of
Hanoi. The corresponding article showed
the current works of a group of five male
painters, The Gang of Five, who with their
fresh, figurative abstract expressions of the
spirit of the Vietnamese were attracting
international attention. The fragile,
crumbling beauty, in stark contrast to this
bold, wild energy and hope for the future
touched my heart.
A month later I arrived in Hanoi.
What was it like living in Hanoi in

the 1990s?
It was a little bit of everything
magical moments, great joy, unexpected
happenings, great confusion, a roller
coaster ride everyday. Definitely not for
the faint of heart. But, it was magical,
especially at night. No electricity after
9pm, little gaslights on tea stands, cyclo
rides around the lake and down to the
mausoleum while being quoted poetry
by my cyclo driver, a physicist who had
studied in Russia; artists coming by to
whisk me off at midnight to go to pagodas
to watch the sunrise; 5pm drinks at the
Metropole where everyone networked
since there were no cellphones and few
landlines. Wonderful, charming, funny,
frustrating, fabulous times.
How have you seen contemporary

art develop in the past 20 years?
Vietnamese artists are now frequently
exhibiting abroad, attending workshops
and residencies. That said the local art scene
is still struggling. There are few Vietnamese
contemporary art collectors so all of the
good work is leaving the country. There
is no contemporary art museum and little
support for the arts so it is still a huge
struggle for the artists to make a living.
There is a great need for education in arts
management and also in education for the
public so that they understand, appreciate

and support the arts.
Does Hanoi have the same magic

for you now as it did when you
first arrived?
I find magic in Hanoi every day there is
always something to discover. I still love
the little tea stands, the bun rieu at the Fat
Ladys noodle shop, the wide smiles of the
street vendors, the incense wafting from
the pagodas, the wailing funeral dirge of
the dan bau, the laughter and smiles of the
children running about. There is always
some kind of magic to be found.
If you could turn back time, what

would you change from your time
in Vietnam?
I never think about turning back the time.
As my friend Pham Quang Vinh said as he
was taking off the rear view mirrors of my
first motorbike in 1994: No look back, no
have time!
Have you ever tried to leave?

I have never even contemplated leaving.
Cant quite imagine it really.
Would you classify yourself as an

expat? Why or why not?
I dont think of myself as an expat. I think
that is such a strange word or expression.
I dont feel any strong allegiance to any
country. I like to think of myself as a
citizen of the world. And anyway, I dont
like labels!
How well do you think youve

integrated into Vietnamese life
and society?
I love this country and have many
wonderful Vietnamese friends. However,
I am always mindful that I am an
outsider. This is not a bad thing. I
am always aware of how I must
accommodate myself to the
country, for I am a guest here.
How difficult has it

been working in the
art industry in
Vietnam?
Difficult, expensive and
wonderful. It is the
passion of my life
and has brought
me many gifts. I
have received
far more than I
am able to give.
What are your hopes for the future

of Vietnamese contemporary art?
My big dream before I die is to see a
contemporary art museum, art education
for the masses, compulsory art education in
school, trained Vietnamese art professionals
working nationally and internationally,
professional galleries and art centres, and a
more public integration of culture in all its
forms literature, art, music, dance, poetry
that is accessible to all.
Suzannes gallery Art Vietnam can be found
online at artvietnamgallery.com
Sch Chuyn Qung Co - Not For Sale

Word Vietnam June 2016

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Word Vietnam June 2016

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

The

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

011 / The Big Five

They came, they saw, and damn did

Vietnam learns a new sport:

EAT & DRINK

This months review: Minh Thuys

54 / Running the Hash

106 / Fowl Play

Silly names and a drinking problem.

60 / The Five Stages

A night out on Chicken Street

108/ Mystery Diner HCMC

Making Phong Nha into a

Giving youth a chance through IT

FV Hospital ups its game

2 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

86 / How to Build a Tourist

96 / Not Only Cheap,

Everyone loves a flea market, even

136 / Day Tripper

112 / The Tourification of

142 / Bar Stool

138 / The Alchemist

Another pristine beach in Southeast

144 / Coffee Cup

140 / The Therapist

148 / Top Eats 1

152 / Medical Buff

118 / The Other Side of

150 / Top Eats 2

162 / Body and Temple

154 / City Map

174 / Know Your City

178 / Amazing Grapes

A journey to paradise. Well, almost

126 / Notes from Another City

130 / The Motorbike Diaries

182 / A World of Good

Connecting the dots

156/ HCMC City Guide

160 / Day Tripper

170 / Bar Stool

Why Vietnamese treat foreigners as

176 / Top Eats

132 / Hanoi City Guide

184 / City Map

4 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

186 / 10 Steps to Knowing

The woman behind Art Vietnam

CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

6 | Word June 2016 | wordvietnam.com

CNG TY TNHH MTV

CHU TRCH NHIM XUT BN:

LIN KT XUT BN V PHT HNH

In 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

At the time I was

far from anything that

different reasons for

CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

THIS MONTH'S COVER

Have Your Say

The Organic Farm

Page 54, May 2016