Sew News 2016 - 12

FREE JACKET & SKIRT PATTERN INSIDE
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DEC 2016/JAN 2017

sewnews.com
Big on Performance & Easy on Price!
12 of Creative Space
Introducing the Baby Lock Jazz with a 12 workspace

and 1,000-stitch-per-minute, the Jazz offers a big place
to create all of your quilt compositions. The best part
about the Jazz is that its easy to afford with features
unlike other machines in its price range.
BABY LOCK
Plus, Baby Lock is there to accompany you along the

way. Now that should be music to your ears!
babylock.com/jazz
the Koala
Artisan Studio
The new Koala Artisan puts endless creative possibilities

at your ngertips. With Koalas most spacious work
surface, and the XL Lift designed to accommodate the
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module and hoop closets keep all your supplies organized
and right where you need them. The world is in your hands
what will you create?
Visit www.mykoalastudio.com
CONTENTS
FEATURES
26 COCKTAIL CLUTCH
Create an upscale sequin
evening bag.
30 TIME TO SHINE SKIRT

Stitch a flirty wrap skirt in sateen.
34 WELL FASHIONED FOLIOS

Create a set of rugged leather
portfolios.
40 FIT IN KNIT
Convert a basic tunic pattern
with a tulip hemline.
44 SUIT YOUR FANCY

Stitch high-end metallic brocade
tuxedo pants.
48 BROOCHES IN BLOOM
Master free-motion stitching
with a simple brooch project.
52 TEAM NEOPRENE
Sew a quilted scuba knit
bomber jacket.
56 MAKE A SPLASH
Make a cozy mermaid or shark
blanket as a quick gift.
DEC 2016/
JAN 2017
ISSUE 356
22
2
SEWNEWS.COM
DECEMBER 2016/JANUARY 2017
30
ON THE
COVER
26
34
44
40
COLUMNS
IN EVERY ISSUE
14
JOI OF FITTING: Knowing Knits
Editors Letter
10
Cool Tools
18
BASIC SKILLS: Choosing Fabric
Experts
69
Ask the Editor
22
PATTERN PLAY: Playful in Plaid
Online Extras
71
Off the Shelf
60
CREATIVE SPACE: Linda Lee
From You
72
Last Laugh
64
SEW & TELL: Cape Super Express
Reader Tips
68
FASHION FETE: Varsity
70
HOME COUTURE: Industrial
SEWNEWS.COM
EDITOR
DEAR READERS,
I wasnt lucky enough to have home-ec in school. In fact, as I entered
junior high, the music program was suffering and drama was a thing
of the past. In order to participate in theater, cooking or sewing, my
parents had to shell out beaucoup bucks, and I had to take part after
school, oftentimes well into the evening. Im very lucky that this was an
option, but I was forced to choose one extracurricular activity instead of
having the luxury to try them all during school hours.
I wonder if this predicament has fostered a more dedicated sewing
audience or has truly alienated people from entering the hobby.
Without the exposure at a young age (and the free exposure at that),
perhaps the inspiration, creativity, empowerment and fulfillment from
sewing arent known attributes. Therefore, people dont seek out the
knowledge of this life skill as they did in the past. Or, maybe we now
have a passionate community full of only the people who want to
pursue sewing and be all in. No dabblers here! Maybe its a mix of both.
The home-ec conundrum prompted us to further explore the subject.
Visit sewdaily.com for more information and learn how you can get
more involved to teach kids (young and old) the art of sewing.
My mission has always been to bring the love of sewing to more and
more people. I think you all can relatewhen you love something,
you want to share it! Every Friday, were posting a live feed on the Sew
Daily Facebook page to educate, encourage and energize you for the
weekend. Hopefully youre inspired enough to comment, ask questions
and share the feed with your friends. Like the Sew Daily page, and
tune in every Friday to learn a new project, technique or tip. Plus, well
feature periodic special offers and giveaways. Its a great way to spend a
few minutes, and its free!
Speaking of free, there are a ton of free patterns in this issue that I
think youll love. Theyre all meant to gussy you up for the holidays or
get you ready for sporty adventures as the New Year approaches. Let us
know how you like them at sewnews@sewnews.com.
Happy Sewing!
Ellen March
Community Content Director
WHATS NEXT?
A NEW YEAR MEANS A NEW SEW NEWS! LOOK FOR BRAND NEW COLUMNS, ARTICLES AND SPLASHY
PHOTOGRAPHY WITH THE FEB/MARCH ISSUE, ON NEWSSTANDS JAN. 24, 2017. START OUT EASY
WITH A STYLISH WRAP SKIRT PROJECT, MOVE ONTO INTERMEDIATE WITH KNIT BINDING HOWTOS AND THEN TAKE EXPERT ADVICE FROM OUR NEW MASTER CLASS INSTRUCTOR.
SEWNEWS.COM
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EXPERTS
RHONDA BUSS
JENNIFER DAVEY
(Sew & Tell: Cape Super Express--page 64)

is a woman of many talents. Shes a pilot,
writer, artist, dog lover and sewist. She lives
in Chicago, where she drafts patterns and
sews for her blog, Rhondas Creative Life.
rhondabuss.blogspot.com
(Well-Fashioned Foliospage 34) has been

sewing professionally for 18 years and currently works as a freelance designer. She
lives in Clovis, CA, with her husband and
three children and loves sharing her joy for
creating with others.
bestillmycraftingheart.blogspot.com
ANA JANKOVIC
TINA LEWIS
{Pattern Play: Playful in Plaidpage 22) is a

computer programmer who expresses her
creativity by sewing in her free time. Shes
a self-taught sewist and designer residing in
Belgrade, Serbia.
stepalica.blogspot.com
(Cocktail Clutchpage 26) designs and

sews in the mountains above Park City, Utah.
Trained in classic couture methods, she has
worked for pattern, fabric and ribbon companies in addition to having careers in international business, politics, writing, and event
planning. The clothing, quilts and accessories
she designs have a fresh, classic look.
EMILY LI MANDRI
JOI MAHON
(Team Neoprenepage 52) is a clothing

designer living in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
Obsessed with outerwear and unconventional materials, she loves experimenting
with new techniques to create contemporary
wearable statement pieces. In her free time,
she enjoys yoga, swimming, and cooking.
ADDIE MARTINDALE
(Time to Shine Skirtpage 30) is a pattern
designer, fiber artist and college instructor.
She holds bachelors and masters degrees
in apparel design and merchandising and
believes that everyone should learn to sew
handmade garments, even in our busy world.
addiek.com, addiemartindale.com
(Joi of Fitting: Knowing Knitspage 14) is a

fashion designer and owner of Dress Forms
Design Studio, LLC. Shes a past winner
of the American Sewing Expo Passion
for Fashion contest and is the founder of
Baby Locks Love of Fashion Programs.
dressformsdesign.com
AMANDA OGDEN
(Brooches in Bloompage 48) lives in
Durham, England, and runs her business,
Amanda Jane Textiles, from a home studio,
where she embroiders, quilts, designs
fabrics and writes patterns for patchwork,
quilting and sewing.
amandajanetextiles.com
KIM SABA
STACY SCHLYER
(Fashion Fetepage 68, Home Couture

page 70, Suit Your Fancypage 44)
holds a degree in fashion design from the
Fashion Institute of Technology. She loves
to sew, play with her two dogs and collect
everything vintage. kimsaba.com
(Fit in Knitpage 40, Make a Splashpage

56) is a self-taught seamstress and selfproclaimed fabric junkie whose goal is to
reach SABLE (Stash Accumulation Beyond
Life Expectancy). She lives in Kansas with
her family and blogs daily about her sewing
adventures. stacysews.com
Have a
question for one
of our experts?
E-mail sewnews@
sewnews.com.
Find out about the talented experts featured in this

issue, and visit their websites for more fun extras.
S E W N E W S.CO M
D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 / J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 7
Visit the
Sew News blog
at sewnews.com
for giveaways,
tutorials and
more!
sewnews.com
email: sewnews@sewnews.com
EDITORIAL
Community Content Director

Senior Editor
Creative Editor
Online Editor
Assistant Editor
Ellen March
Amanda Carestio
Kate Zaynard
Jill Case
Jessica Ziebarth
ART
Creative Director
Graphic Designer
Photography
Illustrator
Photo Stylist
Hair & Makeup Artist
Sue Dothage
Danielle Fay
Jessica Grenier,
Mellisa Karlin Mahoney
Melinda Bylow,
Nathan Ziebarth
Tina Gill
Beauty on Location Studio
F+W, a content + ecommerce company
Chief Executive Officer

Chief Financial Officer
Chief Operating Officer
Chief Technology Officer
Chief Content Strategist
VP, Manufacturing & Logistics
Newsstand Sales
General Manager,
Quilt + Sew Community
Thomas F.X. Beusse

James L. Ogle
Joe Seibert
Joe Romello
Steve Madden
Phil Graham
Scott T. Hill
Scott.hill@procirc.com
Give your favorite sewist the gift of sewing with a digital

pattern and video bundle starring Christine Haynes.
Christine guides you through the construction steps
of a tunic, skirt and two dresses. With Christines easy
manner and expert instruction, youll master these great
wardrobe builders in no time and be on your way to a
fabulous wardrobe for 2017.
Kristi Loeffelholz
OPERATIONS
Newsstand Consultant
Retail Sales
TJ Montilli
LaRita Godfrey,
(800) 815-3538
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES
Advertising Director
Cristy Adamski
Advertising Manager
Barbara Staszak
cristy.adamski@fwcommunity.com
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What we love from shopsewitall.com!

Deck the halls with handcrafted holiday projects from
Heidi Boyd. Each kit from the Heidi Boyd Sew With Me
series features
adorable holiday
motifs reminiscent
of a Christmas
past. These simple
clean shapes plus
expert instruction
on constructing
a stocking, tree
decorations
or pillow will
dress up any
room or mantel.
Find them all in
shopsewitall.com.
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Sew News December 2016/January 2017 No. 1
Copyright 2016 by F+W, a content + ecommerce company. All rights
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SEWNEWS.COM
FROM YOU
FIND
We asked you on Facebook:
What is your worst

sewing habitthe one
thats hardest to break?
BEST IN SEW
[My habit is] saving
pieces of fabric that 'I
might need,' later just
to realize they're trash.
But who knows, I still
might need them.
Maria S.
Milan Markovic / istockphoto.com
Maria won a copy of Amy

Butlers Piece Keeping book.
For your shot at winning a
prize, comment on the Sew
News Facebook page.
all the tools to keep

your bad habits
at bay at
shopsewitall.com.
28%
Holding pins in
your mouth
24%
UFOs
18%
Fabric hoarding
14%
Tossing thread,
fabric scraps and
pins on the floor
7%
Sewing over pins
5%
Not pressing
2%
Losing track of
the needle in
the machine
2%
Posture
YOU SAID SEW

Not ironing between sewing because I
dont want to set up the ironing board.
Emily M.
JOIN THE
CONVERSATION!
Visit our Facebook fan page to
take polls and post comments
for more chances to win
a special sewing prize.
Starting too many projects and not

finishing one before starting another. I
have at least ten projects all in different
stages. Jennifer B.
Putting needles in my mouth. Once I

sneezed with two in my mouth and lost
my mind. Safiyah U.
I can turn an orderly sewing room into
a FEMA-level disaster in one sewing
session. Tess Q.
READER REMARKS
Check out the latest comments on our Facebook fan page:
facebook.com/
sewnews
twitter.com/
sewnews
instagram.com/
sewnews
S E W N E W S.CO M
[Over the weekend] I cleaned out and

donated most of my 40-year sewing
stash. I kept a few of the nice pieces that
still speak to me, and I'm looking forward
to starting over with new fabric stash. It
feels awesome! Bernadette S.
Youre never too old to learn new sewing
tricks! Darlene W.
I love making bias tape!" Sharon M.

Cant wait for this issue to arrive! Danielle F.
[Purchasing] a winning lottery ticket so I
can buy more fabric. Louise M.
READER TIPS
1. ROCKIN PATTERN WEIGHTS
Make your own pattern weights by
applying adhesive-backed felt to
small river rocks and decorate to
your style.
Georgia T., Facebook
2. DELICATE DRAPE
Use a scarf hanger to store trim or
delicate fabrics.
Lauren G., Facebook
3. FULL CIRCLE
Keep all of your bobbins together
and easily accessible on a metal
book ring.
Katie H., Facebook
4. LOVELY LINING
Put unused fabric to good use by
applying spray adhesive to the
wrong side and adhering it to your
dresser drawers.
Erin R., Facebook
5. FABRIC DIRECTORY
Make fabric swatches out of
leftover scraps and add a label with
the fabric company and collection
name so its easily referenced in
the future.
Danni H., Facebook
HIDE & SEEK
Featured readers received

a gift for submitting a tip.
Send your tips to sewnews@
sewnews.com or post them at
facebook.com/sewnews.
Play & Win!

What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.
When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a
postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide
& Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401.
Responses are due December 31, 2016. From the correct
responses, well randomly draw five winners, one of which
could be you.
The Dec 16/Jan 17 winners will receive a wonderful prize!
Congratulations
to the Aug/Sept 16 Hide
& Seek winners! We randomly
selected five winners to receive
a fabulous prize.
Myrtle P., Palm Beach

Gardens, FL
Violet R., Deer River, MN
Jessie Z., Chilcoot, CA
Katarina M., Smyrna, DE
Edith K., Gibsonville, NC
SEWNEWS.COM
COOL TOOLS
Stock your sewing room with the latest
notions, tools, fabric, books and more.
1
1. Bake what your heart really desires
sewing! Sewing Kit Cookie Cutters come in
a set of four, featuring a sewing machine,
a pair of scissors, a thimble and a thread
spool. Each is made of silver-colored tinplated steel. shopsewitall.com
2. Have fun making your own holiday
ornaments with Fabri Flair Kits. These
dimensional paper-piecing kits allow
you to use up any scrap fabrics that you
may be keeping around for something
special. Kits are also available in Moravian
stars, faceted spheres and a needle case.
indygojunction.com
Find more
great projects,
exclusive patterns
and notions at
shopsewitall.com.
10
SEWNEWS.COM
3. If you're looking for a new specialized

machine, the Elna eXpressive 830 is an
embroidery-only machine that makes it
easy for you to embellish and personalize
items. With 160 built-in designs, six fonts
for monogramming and embroidery
software compatibility, designers are able
to customize just about anything.
elnausa.com
4. Bluefig University: Learn to Sew Kit is
the perfect gift for a child who is curious
about sewing. Kits come with pre-cut felt
pieces, embellishments and easy-to-read
instructions with how-to images. Kits
are available in three levels of difficulty
ranging from beginner to advanced.
bluefig.net
5. Grab the perfect stocking stuffers for the
crafter in your life. The Handcrafted and
Off the Bias Temporary Tattoo packs each
come with two sheets consisting of 34
unique designs that any maker will enjoy.
ctpub.com
SEWNEWS.COM
11
COOL TOOLS
6. Wanderlust Lawn and Wanderlust Poplin

prints from Monaluna are 100% organic
cotton lawn, perfect for quilting, apparel
and for the home. The lightweight fabrics
feature a watercolor effect with beautiful
pastel shades. monaluna.com
7. Charmed Collections has come out
with sterling silver and hand-stamped
Sewing Charm Necklaces. Necklaces can
be adorned with hand-drawn sewing
machines, Keep Calm and Sew On,
scissors, or needle and thread charms.
Each can be customized with a colored
bead and a charm of your choice.
charmedcollections.com
12
SEWNEWS.COM
GET READY for the Holidays with Floriani!
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Visit ZE<&
of FITTING
Knowing
KNITS
BY JOI MAHON
Learn how to fit knits and knit patterns.
nit fabrics provide many advantages for those who love garment
sewing. Knit fabrics simplify the fitting
process, eliminate excess seams,
require less tailoring and are compatible with many patterns and styles that
can be made in a short amount of
time. In this article, well discuss
different knit fabrics, sewing tips,
stretch and fabric weight and fitting
basics for working with these dynamic, figure-friendly fabrics.
KNIT BASICS
A textbook description will describe
knit fabrics as the product of a
process in which needles are used to
form a series of interlocking loops
from one or more yarns. Woven
fabrics have horizontal wefts while
knits have courses. Wovens have
14
SEWNEWS.COM
warps running vertically and parallel to

the selvage, and knits have wales.
The gauge of a knit is the fineness of
the stitch or the number of needles
used per inch. The higher the gauge,
the finer the fabric.
With advancements in technology,
new knit fabric textures, patterns and
weaves, including neoprene fabric, are
developed all the time, many of which
are now available for the home sewist.
Knit fabrics are created from almost
every fiber type, including cotton,
wool, polyester, spandex and bamboo, and in various combinations,
creating an assortment of textures,
sheens and finishes. Popular knits for
garment sewing include:
Jersey: These knits have a right
and wrong side. The edges curl to
the wrong side while the ends curl

to the right side, a trait used to
your advantage when hemming
and edge finishing. Jersey unravels
crosswise, runs lengthwise and
stretches more on the crosswise
grain. It is commonly used for
underwear, T-shirts, hosiery and
sweaters.
Terry Cloth: This lofty fabric is
created by the formation of loops.
The closer the loops, the better the
quality. Terry is often used for robes,
beachwear and baby clothing.
Tricot: This is the most common
warp knit, used in many garments,
such as lingerie, sleepwear, shirts
and blouses. The right side runs
vertical and the wrong side is
horizontal. Tricots dont usually run
and are very durable, making them

a popular choice.
Performance: These fabrics are
used for things like swimwear, yoga
pants and sports uniforms. Unlike
in most knit fabrics, the stretch is
primarily a result of using spandex
yarns in the weaving process. The
greatest stretch goes around the
body and stretch happens in both
directions creating a two- or
four-way stretch.
UNDERSTANDING STRETCH
& FABRIC WEIGHT
Some knit sources will describe
types of knits and their stretch in
percentage terms, such as 20%, 35%
or 50% stretch. Instead of focusing
on generic percentages, consider
the tactile qualities of the fabric.
Youll learn much more about fabrics
by observing, feeling, stretching and
experimenting with different kinds.
Knit fabrics can be described as

light-, medium- and heavyweight,
but theyre also described by the
amounts of stretch. Knit fabrics that
have a small amount of stretch
include jersey, double knit, dense
sweater knits and terry cloth.
Medium stretch knits include
open-weave sweater knits, tricot and
mesh, and knits with a large amount
of stretch include spandex and
ribbing.
Lightweight knits work well for
very drapey designs, gathering and
multiple layers. Heavy knits need
simple patterns with clean lines that
enhance heavy textures and prints.
Performance knits, such as spandex,
use as few seams as possible and are
great for featuring decorative stitches.
How a knit stretches will indicate
how it will perform when sewn. If
you need to make a neckband that
hugs the body, you want a short
piece with a large amount of stretch.
In this case, a great option is ribbing

or spandex. If you want to make a
shirt with minimal stretch for
comfort, a sweater knit provides a
sufficient amount.
When selecting fabric, observe
the recovery, or how well the fabric
springs back to the original size after
stretching, because this will effect
the finished sewn product. If the
recovery is poor, the fabric in certain
areas, such as the elbows, knees and
crotch curve, can stretch out when
the garment is worn.
SEWING KNITS
Knits are easy to sew, but there are a
few key sewing tips that impact fit.
Some knits are more susceptible
to shrinkage. Cotton knits or very
open-weave structures can shrink,
so pre-shrink yardage before cutting
the pattern.
Sergers offer a variety of knit seam

and finishing options..
SEWNEWS.COM
15
There is grain, so to speak, on

knits. One direction will have more
stretch and that should go around
the body. However, if the weave and
grain are skewed, select a different
cut of fabric for better results, as the
garment might twist on the body.
Some knit fabrics also have a nap,
especially on knits with sheen, so lay
pattern pieces in one direction.
seams need to stretch while others

need more stability.
FITTING KNITS
Knit interfacing is another tool

that adds strength and body,
controls stretch and prevents
seams from showing on the
outside. Use knit interfacing on collars, cuffs, necklines, pockets,
hems, buttonholes, waistbands,
sleeveless armholes and fly-front
zipper facings.
Knit patterns are intentionally

created smaller than patterns for
woven fabrics to account for various
degrees of stretch. When sewing a
woven, make a fitting sample; the
same applies to knits. Even though
its easier to fit a knit garment, it's
still best to create a fit sample using
a sample fabric with the same
amount of stretch as the finished
fashion fabric. With variations of
ease and comfort in knit patterns,
make sure you have ease in the
correct locations and avoid bagging
and sagging elsewhere. A simple fit
sample ensures an accurate fit when
sewing the final garment. Plus, knit
garments are best sewn start to
finish without taking them apart or
seam ripping, which often causes
holes in the fabric.
Common stitches and seams

used in knits are the overlock stitch,
chain stitch, narrow rolled edge,
wave stitch and coverstitch. Make
fabric samples and experiment with
different threads and stitches. Keep a
sample card and make notes so
when you sew that fabric again, it's
easy to reference the selected
choices. Base seam selection on the
bulk of fabric, the fabric's tendency
to ravel or run, ability to stretch and
tendency to curl. Additionally, some
Many stretch fashions and knit

patterns dont include waist and bust
darts, but while custom fitting its
perfectly acceptable to contour a
large curve and add darts, especially
with heavier knits. These darts are
not so much to make the fabric fit,
but to tailor the fabric against the
body contour. A fit sample allows
you to see how much and where the
excess fabric is on the garment in
order to make proper fitting adjustments.
Stabilize areas that may stretch

using seam tape or twill tape. These
areas include shoulder seams, zipper
facings and across the back neckline
from shoulder to shoulder.
16
SEWNEWS.COM
For more on Jois

approach to fit, grab a
copy of Designer Joi's
Fashion Sewing Workshop
at shopsewitall.com.
Visit Designer Joi's blog

for helpful how-tos, fit
information and garment
fitting solutions:
perfectfitblog.fashion.
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BASIC SKILLS
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CHOOSING
THE RIGHT
FABRIC
A fabric store can be overwhelmingthere are so many choices and
so many things to look at. Heres
how to make the process of
choosing the right fabric easier.
Before shopping, have an idea of
what youre looking for. Begin by
analyzing the clothing you already
wear. What fabrics are represented
among the 10 garments you wear
the most? What do you like about
them? What are you making and
what characteristics does it have?
Will it be dressy or casual? What
will you likely do when wearing it?
If the answer is gardening, youll
need different fabric than if its
working at a computer. What
season is it intended for? What
time of day will you be wearing
itin the evening when its cooler
or during the warmest part of the
day? All these elements play a
role in deciding what kind of fabric
to choose.
If using a pattern, look at the
pattern envelope. The manufacturer
has the best recommendation for
18
SEWNEWS.COM
the appropriate fabric and wants you

to succeed, so printed on the
envelope are very specific cues to
help you make wise fabric selections. The most obvious clue is the
fabric used in the image on the
pattern envelope, so look at that first
(1). Also check the envelope back for
the suggested fabric list (2).
Its okay to choose a fabric thats
not listed on the pattern envelope,
but first consider how the fabric will
perform. Are you sure you want to
sew those overalls (for which the
pattern suggested heavy duck) in
lightweight rayon? Consider how
the change in weight and drape will
effect the look of the garment. Will
billowing rayon make the garment
look like a tent? Will the fabric
weight stand up to the use you
have in mind? If youre unsure
about the answers to these questions, stick with the fabrics that
have the same characteristics as
the recommended fabrics.
Check for a sentence within the
recommendations that begins not
Soft chiffons drape but most

denims dont. Thicker fabrics are
more difficult to gather and add
visual weight to full styles. Stiffer
fabrics are best used in more
fitted designs with more seaming. Softer, flowing fabrics, such
as silk chiffon and slinky knits, are
best used for styles with a looser
fit and fewer seams.
suitable for Heed this advice. A very

skilled sewist could make a pattern
work in a forbidden fabric, but it
takes a lot of extra time and work.
When you arrive at the fabric
store, look for a fabric that interests
you and fits with the idea youve
already developed. Once youve
found one, take a closer look. Drape
a large piece over your arm. Does it
flow smoothly or is it stiff? Crumple
a corner of the fabric in your hand.
Does it wrinkle easily? Does it feel
soft to the touch? Run your fingers
over the cut edge. Does it ravel
easily? It is very slippery, thick,
stretchy or have some other quality
that might be difficult to sew?
Consider these characteristics as
you choose your fabric.
Drape is how a fabric moves,

feels and flows over the body.
Texture is how a fabric feels. If

your skin is sensitive, a scratchy
fabric could yield a garment that
you love to look at but hate to
wear. On the other hand,
textured and patterned fabrics
are great at hiding stitching
imperfections.
Fiber content should suit your
lifestyle. If the maintenance
expense of a dry-clean only
garment is always in the back of
FABRIC SUBSTITUTES
It's a good rule of thumb to follow the fabric guidelines on the
pattern envelope. However, if you've fallen in love with a fabric and
wonder if it will work for your pattern, follow these basic guidelines:
If the fabric calls for:
Lightweight Fabrics
Mediumweight Fabrics
Heavyweight Fabrics
You may be able to substitute:

voile, crepe, gauze, challis, calico,
chambray or batiste
denim, linen, flannel, poplin, gabardine or
satin
corduroy, tweed, camel hair, worsted,
sailcloth, melton, gabardine or canvas
your mind, you probably wont

wear the garment as often as
something laundered at home.
Fiber content can also affect the
sewingeach fiber has its own
idiosyncrasies and sews up
differently.
Fabric construction has a direct

bearing on choosing the right
fabric for the pattern. Is it a knit,
woven or a hybrid stretch
woven? A knit-only pattern is
designed with less ease to
achieve the desired effect, and
only a knit will work.
Fabric width is vitally important

if some of the pattern pieces
will only fit on 54 to 60 fabric.
Make sure to check the width
on the pattern envelope and the
bolt; choose fabric and purchase yardage accordingly.
WHEN THE FABRIC

COMES FIRST
Sometimes you fall in love with
a fabric without having a pattern
in mind and have to figure out
what to make with it. One way is
to browse pattern books looking for a pattern whose image
showcases fabric that shares
traits with the one youve chosen. Once youve found a good
prospect, double-check the
pattern envelope to make sure it
really is suitable for the fabric.
SEWNEWS.COM
19
BASIC SKILLS
Quality makes a difference in

your sewing experience as well
the finished garment. Dont
waste time sewing inferior fabric.
Buy the best you can afford.
There are a lot of technical

things to keep in mind when youre
choosing fabric, but in some ways
the most intuitive things are the
most important. Only buy fabric you
love. If you dont love it before
you cut, you probably wont wear
the finished garment. And follow
your instincts. If unsure about the
suitability of a fabric for the pattern
youve chosen, trust your intuition
and dont buy itor look for a
different pattern that will suit the
fabric better.
Choosing the correct fabric
takes practice, and even experienced sewists make mistakes. Each
garment you make provides lessons
to build on until the selection
process becomes easy.
RESOURCES
Laurence King publishes Fabric for Fashion, The
Complete Guide: Natural and Man-made Fibres:
laurenceking.com.
AbeBooks.com carries The Fashion Designers Textile
Directory: A Guide to Fabrics Properties, Characteristics,
and Garment-Design Potential: abebooks.com.
20
SEWNEWS.COM
BUYING FABRIC
ONLINE
When buying fabric online, youre
not able to touch the fabric and feel
its weight, drape or the other characteristics you may desire. You cant
even be sure of its color, as computer monitor settings vary greatly.
Here are the three best ways to
make sure youre getting the fabric
you want when you order online.
1. Know your fabrics. What exactly
is the difference between crepe,
chiffon and gauze? Broadcloth
and cotton? China silk and silk
shantung? If you read a fabric type and know its typical
qualities, order it knowing that
youre unlikely to find a surprise
when the package arrives. If you
expect to buy a lot of fabric online, it may be worth your while
to pick up a fabric guide that
compiles these details, such as

Fabric for Fashion or The Fashion
Designers Textile Directory (see
Resources).
2. Look for detailed descriptions.
The more information about a
fabric you have, the more you
can be sure what youre buying
is right for what you need.
3. Get a swatch. Most online fabric
stores are willing to sell or send
you a swatch for free. There's
a risk that the fabric will sell
out while youre waiting for the
swatch to arrive, so youll have
to balance that against ensuring you have the perfect fabric.
If youre buying quilting cotton
and youre flexible on color, the
swatch may not be as important
as if youre buying fashion fabric
for a tricky pattern or trying to
match an exact shade.
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PATTERN PLAY
Playful
in Plaid
BY ANA JANKOVIC
Update a basic shift dress with

sophisticated neckline pleats and
traditional tartan fabric.
Look for a basic

shift pattern, such
as McCalls 2401.
22
SEWNEWS.COM
Close-up of seam with perfectly matched plaids.
SUPPLIES
Shift dress pattern with vertical
waist darts & horizontal bust darts
(such as McCalls 2401)
Tartan fabric, lining, fusible interfacing & notions (amount according to pattern envelope)
Invisible zipper
Pattern or tracing paper
Rulers: straight & curved
Removable fabric marker
Mark the natural waistline on the

front and back pattern (1).
Cut the patterns along the new
necklines and waistlines. Designate
the front bodice pattern as the
front-bodice lining pattern.
Trace the front-bodice lining
pattern onto a new piece of paper.
Draw a curved line 1 from and
parallel to the neckline. Cut along
the drawn lines. Designate as the
front neckline facing.
Clear tape
Repeat to draft the back neckline

facing (2).
PREPARE
Trace the front-lining pattern onto

new paper, and then flip it along the
center-front line; trace to create a
full front pattern. Designate as the
bodice front.
Cut out the pattern pieces.

Before beginning the alterations,
pin-fit or make a muslin fitting
sample of the selected pattern.
Make any necessary fit adjustments
to the pattern, and then trace a copy
on paper, transferring all markings.
Mark 2 to the left of center front

along the neckline. Draw a straight
line to connect the mark with the
bust dart apex.
ALTER
Mark to the right of center front

along the neckline. Draw a straight
line to connect the mark with the
waistline dart apex (3).
Draw a gently curved boat

neckline on the front and back
patterns, making sure the front
and back shoulder seams are the
same length.
Cut along each line from the

neckline to the dart apex. Close the
SEWNEWS.COM
23
PATTERN PLAY
bust and waistline dart to create

dart openings along the cut lines;
tape to secure.
Repeat to draft the opposite bodice
side, making sure the darts on both
sides are symmetrical (4).
Check the pattern pieces against
the diagram on page 25 (5).
CUT
From the tartan fabric, cut one front
bodice, one front skirt on the fold,
two back bodices, two back skirts,
one front-neckline facing on the fold
and two back-neckline facings.
Note: Make sure the bodice lower
edge and skirt upper edge tartan
fabric lines match and the horizontal
lines on the front and back bodice
match along the center back.
From the lining, cut one front
bodice lining on the fold, one front
skirt on the fold, two back bodice
linings and two back skirts.
From the fusible interfacing, cut

one front-neckline facing on the fold
and two back-neckline facings. Fuse
each interfacing piece to the
corresponding main-fabric piece
wrong side, following the manufacturers instructions.
CONSTRUCT
Hand baste the front-bodice darts.
Press each dart toward the center
front. Using a cross stitch, hand stitch
each dart foldline to the bodice
wrong side, making sure the stitch is
invisible on the fabric right side (6).
Remove the dart basting to create
neckline pleats.
Stitch the back bodice, front skirt
and back skirt darts with right sides
together; press.
With right sides together, stitch the
front-bodice lower edge to the
front-skirt upper edge; press open.
Repeat to stitch the back bodice to
the back skirt.
Stitch the dress front and back
along the side seams with right sides
together; press open.
Repeat to construct the dress lining,

stitching the front bodice-lining darts
with right sides together.
dress and lining at the armscyes, making
sure to align the side seams; press.
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SEWNEWS.COM
With right sides together, align the

right dress shoulders and right lining
shoulders; stitch both seams at
once, and then press. Repeat to
stitch the left shoulder seams.
Turn the lining toward the dress
wrong side. Align the dress and
lining necklines; hand baste, making
sure the shoulder seams are aligned.
Insert the invisible zipper into the
dress center-back seam according
to the manufacturers instructions.
Finish stitching the center-back
seam below the zipper, ending the
stitching 5 before the lower edge
for a slit, if desired.
Hem the dress, following the pattern
guidesheet.
front and back neckline facings
along the shoulder seams; press
open.
neckline facing to the dress neckline; press. Fold the facing toward
the dress wrong side; press. Hand
stitch the facing lower edge to the
lining.
Hem the lining.
SOURCE
The McCall Pattern Co. carries pattern 2401: mccall.com.
back-neckline
facing
back bodice/
back bodice
lining
front-neckline
facing
front bodice
lining
front bodice
back skirt/back
skirt lining
front skirt/front
skirt lining
SEWNEWS.COM
25
Cocktail
CLUTCH
BY TINA LEWIS
Add sparkle to any outfit with an elegant

evening clutch, perfect for showing
off a specialty sequined fabric.
26
SEWNEWS.COM
SUPPLIES
Supplies listed are enough to create
one 5x10 clutch.
7
8 yard of at least 45-wide satin

13 yard each of sheer sequin or
glitter fabric & 20-wide one-sided
fusible heavyweight stabilizer
1 yards of 20-wide fusible tricot
interfacing
All-purpose thread
Hand sewing needle
-diameter magnetic snap
panels, one 2x9 bias strip, one

2x18 bias strip and one 2x37
bias strip. Designate one main panel
and one front panel as the lining.
From the sequin or glitter fabric,
cut one main panel.
From the stabilizer, cut one main
panel and one front panel.
From the interfacing, cut two main
panels, two front panels, two side
panels, one 2x9 bias strip, one
2x18 bias strip and two 2x 1878
bias strips.
Transfer all the pattern markings to
the corresponding pattern pieces.
Look for other

fabrics, such as
polyester charmeuse,
to match the chosen
embellished fabric.
CUT
Download the Cocktail Clutch
pattern at sewnews.com/web_extras
until Jan. 31, 2017. Purchase the
pattern at shopsewitall.com after
the expiration date. Print, and then
cut out.
From the satin fabric, cut two main
panels, two front panels, two side
Fuse the interfacing pieces to the

corresponding satin-piece wrong
sides according to the manufacturers
instructions. For the 2x37 bias
strip, overlap the two 2x1878
bias strip interfacing short ends 18 and
fuse to the wrong side of the strip.
Trim a seam allowance from the
front-stabilizer straight upper edge.
Fuse the stabilizer pieces to the
corresponding satin-piece wrong
side according to the manufacturers
instructions.
placement mark following the

manufacturers instructions.
Position the sequin main panel right
side up over the satin main panel
right side; pin.
Align the satin main-panel lining
with the satin main-panel, wrong
sides together; pin. Baste the
perimeter using a scant seam
allowance.
Attach the female snap to the satin
front-panel right side at the placement mark. Align the satin and lining
front panel with right sides together;
stitch the upper straight edge.
Understitch the seam along the
lining (1).
Fold the satin and lining front
panels with wrong sides together,
aligning the perimeters; baste a
scant from the curved edge.
CONSTRUCT
Use seam allowances unless
otherwise noted.
Attach the male snap to the satin
main-panel lining right side at the
SEWNEWS.COM
27
Position the satin and lining side

panels right sides together; stitch
both short ends. Turn the side panel
right side out; press. Staystitch the
side-panel long edges using a scant
seam allowance.
Position one side-panel long edge

along the main panel between the
dots with wrong sides together,
aligning the center backs and the
side-panel short ends with the dots;
pin. Clip into the side-panel and
main-panel curved edges at
intervals. Baste along the staystitching (2).
Fold the 37 bias strip in half

widthwise with right sides together;
stitch the short ends together. Press
open, and then quarter-mark the strip.
Position one strip long edge along
the main-panel right side with right
sides together, aligning the center
fronts and the strip seamline with the
center back. Baste, easing the
fullness at the curves to prevent any
pleats or gathering.
28
SEWNEWS.COM
Stitch the strip to the main panel

lining with the main panel facing up,
using the staystitching as a guide. Fold
the strip long raw edge toward the
wrong side; press. Fold the strip
toward the main-panel lining, aligning
the fold just beyond the stitching line;
pin. Slipstitch the fold to the mainpanel lining and side panel (3).
Position the side-panel long raw
edge along the front panel between
the dots with wrong sides together,
aligning the center fronts and side
panel short ends with the dots; pin.
Clip into the side panel and main
panel curved edges at intervals.
Baste along the staystitching.
Fold the 19 bias strip in half
widthwise. Mark the foldline and
designate as the center front; unfold.
Position one strip long edge along
the right side of the front panel,
aligning the center fronts and with
the short ends extending beyond
the front upper edge; pin. Baste, easing the fullness at the curves to
prevent any pleats or gathering.
Stitch the strip with the side panel

facing right side up, using the
staystitching as a guide. Fold the
strip long raw edge and the short
ends that extend beyond the front
upper edge toward the wrong
side; press. Fold the strip toward the
main panel lining, aligning the fold
just beyond the stitching line; pin.
Slipstitch the fold to side panel (4).
Slipstitch the tucked-in ends at the
front upper edge closed.
Fold the 9 bias strip in half lengthwise with right sides together; press.
Stitch the long edge. Trim the seam
allowance to ; press open. Turn
the strip right side out, aligning the
seam to the strip center back; press
flat. Cut a 1-long piece from the
strip and designate as the bow knot.
Designate the remaining piece as the
bow strip.
Overlap the bow strip short ends
with right sides together; whipstitch
to secure. Center the bow knot
around the bow strip, overlapping
the short ends at the bow wrong
side; whipstitch to secure. Center
the bow along the clutch center
front along the binding; slipstitch to
secure.
FANCY FABRIC FACTS

Discover professional techniques for working with sheer fabrics embellished with sequins or glitter.
Sheer sequin fabrics have sequins that are either sewn or glued onto
the main fabric, either densely covering the main fabric or with delicate open designs.
If the sequins are oriented in the same direction, position the pattern
in a nap or directional layout with all the sequins facing the same way
before cutting.
For precise cutting, use pattern weights, and cut the fabric in a single
layer. For pieces cut on the fold, trace the pattern and foldline on the
fabric, and then flip the pattern and trace again.
Dont use fabric scissors when cutting embellished fabrics, as the
sequins and glitter dull the blades.
Cut the fabric with the embellishment facing the table or wear safety
glasses to prevent sequins from hitting your eyes.
For dense sequin fabric, the sequins must be removed from the seam
allowance to prevent difficult stitching and to reduce bulk. Mark the
seamline with hand basting or removable fabric marker. Using small
scissors or a seam ripper, carefully remove the sequins individually
within the seam allowance, making sure not to cut the fabric.
Fabrics embellished with delicate, sparse or glued-on sequins or fabric with glitter do not need to have the embellishments removed from
the seam allowance.
Install a single-hole throat plate on the sewing machine to prevent
sequins from being pushed down into the machine during stitching.
Select a size 70/10 sharp needle, polyester thread and 3mm to 3.5mm
stitch length. Always stitch slowly to prevent needle breakage.
Press embellished fabric only when necessary. Press on the fabric
wrong side with a press cloth. Use a dry iron on a synthetic temperature setting to prevent melting the embellishment. Always test on a
fabric scrap before pressing the main fabric.
SEWNEWS.COM
29
Time to
Shine
Skirt
BY ADDIE MARTINDALE
The wrap skirt gets a formal

makeover in shantung sateen.
Stitch this stunning yet simple
skirt to wear to any holiday party.
30
SEWNEWS.COM
SUPPLIES
2 yards of shantung sateen fabric
yard each of contrasting shantung sateen fabric & lightweight
fusible interfacing
All-purpose thread
Size 80/12 sharp needle
Cut four waistbands from the

contrasting fabric. Designate two
waistbands as the waistband facings.
Cut two waistbands from the interfacing. Trim from each interfacing perimeter. Fuse the interfacing to
the waistband wrong sides following
the manufacturers instructions.
Point turner
CONSTRUCT
CUT
Download the Time to Shine Skirt
pattern at sewnews.com/web_extras
until Jan. 31, 2017. Purchase the
pattern at shopsewitall.com after the
expiration date. Print, and then cut
out the size according to your
measurements.
Cut two skirt panels from the skirt
fabric, aligning the pattern lower
edge with the fabric selvage.
Cut two bias strips from the skirt
fabric according to the chart
below, piecing together strips if
needed to achieve the length.
Designate as the ties.
Size
Bias Strip
Measurement
Natural Waist
Measurement
One 2x40 strip

One 2x67 strip
28 to 30
One 2x43 strip

One 2x73 strip
31 to 33
One 2x47 strip

One 2x79 strip
34 to 36
XL
One 2x50 strip

One 2x85 strip
37 to 40
Fold one tie in half lengthwise with

wrong sides together; press, and
then unfold. Fold each long edge
toward the foldline; press. Refold
along the center foldline with right
sides together; press, and then stitch
one short end. Turn right side out.
Fold along the center foldline with
wrong sides together. Edgestitch the
strip long edge.
Repeat to construct the remaining tie.
Position the two waistbands with
right sides together; pin. Stitch the
short end with the tie opening,
making sure to leave the opening
free according to the pattern
markings. Press open the seam.
Repeat to construct the waistband facing.
Position the waistband and waistband facing right sides together; pin.
Stitch one long edge; press open.
Designate one waistband short end
as the right side seam.
Center the long tie over the right
side-seam placement marking with
right sides together and aligning the

raw edges; pin. Repeat to place the
short tie over the left side-seam
placement marking.
Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with right sides together,
sandwiching the ties within the
waistband; pin. Stitch the short
edges (1).
Trim the waistband upper corners;
turn right side out. Push out the corners using a point turner; press flat.
SHINE ON!
Shantung sateen, also known as
shantung satin, has a slubbed
texture with sheen on one side
and a smooth, shiny surface on
the other. Here are tips and tricks
for working with the fabric to
achieve a professional finish.
Use a rotary cutting system to
cut clean, accurate pieces.
Serge-finish all pattern piece
perimeters before stitching
to add stability and prevent
fraying. For edges that cant
be serge-finished, apply seam
sealant.
Use as few pins as possible
and install a size 80/12 sharp
needle to prevent fabric snags.
Stitch shantung sateen fabric
using a French seam or serger
whenever possible.
SEWNEWS.COM
31
Topstitch the waistband tie opening

1
8 from the edge (2).
Fold the waistband-facing lower
edge toward the wrong side.
Use a French seam or serger to
stitch the skirt panels together along
one short edge.
Fold each skirt short edge 18
toward the wrong side; press. Fold
each skirt short edge toward the
wrong side; press. Topstitch a scant
from each short edge.
Select a 5mm stitch length. Stitch
/8 from the skirt upper edge,
leaving long thread tails. Pull the
bobbin thread to gather the skirt
edge to match the waistband length,
evenly distributing the gathers.
Fold the waistband with wrong sides

together, aligning the waistband
facing folded edge just beyond the
stitching; press, and then pin.
Stitch in the ditch along the waistband and skirt seamline, making sure
to catch the waistband facing within
the stitching.
Leave the skirt lower-edge selvage
as the finished hem. Or double-fold
the skirt lower edge toward the
wrong side; topstitch a scant
from the lower edge.
Position the waistband over the skirt

upper edge with right sides together
and aligning the side seams; pin.
Stitch, using a seam allowance.
Lengthen or shorten
the skirt along the
lower edge to the
desired length.
32
SEWNEWS.COM
FRENCH FINISH
A French seam works well with
light- to mediumweight fabrics.
With wrong sides together,
stitch the seam from the
raw edge. Press the seam allowances to one side. Fold the
seam with right sides together,
and then press so the previous
stitching line is on the edge of
the fold. Sew a second seam
3
/8 from the fold, enclosing the
first seam allowances.
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Well
Fashioned
Folios
BY JENNIFER DAVEY
Create an elegant e-reader cover or an organizer with

a notepad tucked inside as a great gift for anyone in
your life. Along the way, learn how to use cool tools
to work with leather for flawless results every time.
34
SEWNEWS.COM
Folio
SUPPLIES
Materials listed are enough to make
one 6x9 folio.
2 to 3 square feet of 2-3 oz.
leather (such as Mosaic Goat Skin
in Charcoal; see Source.)
Leather adhesive tape (such as
Tanners Bond)
Magnetic snap
7-long metal zipper
Rotary cutting system
Craft knife
Hand sewing needle suitable for
leather
Waxed thread
Diamond-hole chisel set
Poly cutting board
Mallet
Stitching groover set
5-wide top-bound notebook
PREPARE
Download the Well Fashioned
Folios pattern from sewnews.com/
web_extras until Jan. 31, 2017. Find
the pattern at shopsewitall.com after
the expiration date.
From the leather, cut one body, one

center, one crossover pocket pair,
one zipper pocket and two zipper
stops. Transfer all markings to the
leather wrong sides.
Place the zipper pocket right side

up on a flat work surface. Center
the male magnetic snap over the
placement mark, and then mark the
prong locations. Using a craft knife,
make a slit at each prong mark.
Push the prongs through the slits
and slide the backing over them.
Fold the prongs over to secure the
magnetic snap.
Repeat to attach the female
magnetic snap on the folio body
right side at the placement mark.
Groove
CONSTRUCT
Use a scant seam allowance
unless otherwise noted.
Set the stitching groover guide to a
scant and install the creasing
blade. Create a groove along one
edge of each zipper-stop square (1).
Secure the zipper stops to each
zipper end using bond tape, positioning the stops so the entire
zipper/stop construction measures
9 long and the grooves are on the
outer edges (2).
9 1/2
Groove
SEWNEWS.COM
35
TOOL TIME
Sewing leather is intimidating, but
its a breeze with the proper tools.
Stitching Groover: This tool creates a groove in the leather for
the stitches to sit in, creating a
flatter, neater look and protecting the stitching from wear and
tear. As a bonus, the groove
provides a nice straight line to
guide the stitching. The groover
comes with an adjustable guide
to keep the groove at a uniform
distance from the leather edge.
Diamond-Hole Chisel: Piercing
leather with a needle is difficult.
This tool makes it unnecessary.
The tool consists of a series of

small diamond-shaped punches
preset into a line. Position it
along the stitching groove,
lightly tap it a few times, and lift
up to produce neat holes. Then
insert the needle through the
holes to stitch.
Tanners Bond Adhesive Tape:
Pins leave permanent holes in
leather. This special leatherworking tape bonds the leather
layers to secure them while
sewing. The tape is great when a
permanent bond is needed, but
dont use it for securing pockets
or other openings.
Stitching Groover
Create a groove along the pocket

long straight side, ending from
the edge on each end. Center the
grooved edge of the pocket 1 8
from the zipper teeth along the
right side, matching the edges.
Check to make sure the zipper
pull moves freely, and then use
bond tape to secure the leather to
the zipper.
Place the project right side up on a
poly cutting board. Place the
diamond-hole chisel in the groove
along the pocket edge. Hit the end
of the chisel handle firmly with the
mallet to punch holes. Remove and
realign the chisel by placing one or
two prongs into the previously
punched holes, and then repeat to
punch stitching holes all along the
groove (3).
It may take more

hits to punch through
multiple layers of
leather using a chisel.
Diamond-Hole Chisel
Thread two needles with one length
of thread, with one needle on each
end. Stitch through one end hole.
Stitch, alternating needles from
opposite sides of the leather in and
out of the punched holes (4). Tie off
the thread ends between the leather
layers, trimming threads and pushing
thread ends between the layers. Use
this method of grooving, punching,
and two-needle stitching for all the
remaining stitching.
36
SEWNEWS.COM
Place the folio center wrong side up

on a flat work surface. Cut along the
marked cut line using a craft knife (5).
Fold the leather raw edges to the
wrong side to create a window,
securing the edges using bond tape.
Stitch the window perimeter
from the fold.
Attach the folio center to the
exposed zipper tape per the zipper
pocket instructions. Position the
rectangle with the window at the upper edge and the zipper and flap on
the right edge.
Stitch a decorative edgestitch along
the crossover-pocket curved edges.
Place the folio body on the work

surface with the wrong side up.
Place the zipper pocket construction
right side up over the body, matching the curved edges. Secure the
pieces using bond tape along the
rectangle upper and long edges.
Use binder clips to

secure leather layers
instead of tape,
when needed.
Position the crossover pockets in
opposite directions over the body
left side, matching the straight edges
(6). Secure using binder clips.
Stitch the outer edge, securing all
the pieces.
Slide the cardboard notebook back
into the panel window. Fold the folio
closed and secure using the snap.
SEWNEWS.COM
37
E-Reader Cover
Magnetic snap
This project was designed to fit an

e-reader measuring approximately
5x7. Make the cover fit any
e-reader by adjusting the measurements. When making adjustments,
plan for a final project size thats 1
longer and wider than the e-reader.
For the best fit, dont overlap the
corner flaps.

Craft knife
Hand sewing needle suitable for
leather
Waxed thread
Diamond hole chisel set
Poly cutting board
Rubber Mallet
MATERIALS
Materials listed are enough to make
one 6x8 cover.
38
Stitching groover set
PREPARE
2 to 3 square feet of 2 to 3 oz.

leather (such as Mosaic Goat Skin
in Brick; see Source.)
From the leather, cut one body, one

base, one snap tab, one crossover
pocket pair and four corner flaps.
Leather adhesive tape (such as

Tanners Bond)
Place the snap tab right side up on

a flat work surface. Center the male
SEWNEWS.COM
magnetic snap over the placement

mark, and then mark the prong
locations. Using a craft knife, make a
slit at each prong mark. Push the
prongs through the slits and slide the
backing over them. Fold the prongs
over to secure the magnetic snap.
Repeat to attach the female
magnetic snap on the body right
side at the placement mark.
CONSTRUCT
Use a scant seam allowance
unless otherwise noted.
Fold the snap tab widthwise along
the foldline. Align the long edges and
stitch both long edges using the
groove, punch and stitch method
per the folio instructions (7).
Snap
Foldline
Position the short snap-tab raw

edge on the body short left-edge
wrong side between the placement
marks, overlapping the snap tab end
and with the snap facing up.
Secure using bond tape (8).
Align the base over the body right
side with wrong sides together,
sandwiching the snap tab between
the layers. Secure using bond tape.
Raw Edge
Placement Line
For machine sewing, the basic

folio construction process and
order of assembly remains the
same. However, using bond tape
will gum up the machine needle
and break the thread. Use binder
clips instead to keep the leather
from sliding during stitching.
Fold each square in half diagonally

with wrong sides together; secure
using bond tape. Align the point of
each square with one base corner;
clip to secure.
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS
Position the crossover pockets in

opposite directions over the body left
side, matching the straight edges per
the folio instructions (refer to figure 6
on page 37). Secure using clips.
PTFE sewing machine foot
1/4
Placement Line
FOLIO BY MACHINE
Leather sewing machine

needles size 12/80
Heavyweight upholstery thread
Stitch the outer edge, securing all

the pieces.
SOURCE
Tandy Leather provided the leather and leather tools:
tandyleather.com.
SEWNEWS.COM
39
FIT in
Knit
BY STACY SCHLYER
Stay cozy and stylish this winter with

a unique cocoon knit top. Learn how
to alter a pattern to create a wrap
back and tulip sleeves. Discover tips
for sewing sweater knit fabric.
40
SEWNEWS.COM
Sweater knit fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus

extra yardage depending on fabric
width, pattern placement and size)
Straight ruler
Water-soluble fabric marker
All-purpose thread
ALTER
and parallel to the lower edge. Cut

along the new drawn line. Discard
the sleeve lower edge.
On the sleeve front, mark 3 above
the lower edge along the centerline.
Draw a straight line to connect the
mark with the center of the back
armscye notches. Add a 58 seam
allowance to the drawn line.
Cut along the new drawn lines,

rounding the lower edges as desired.
Discard the pattern below the new
cut lines.
Extend the lower edge 4 on the

front and back pattern.
From the sweater fabric, cut one

back pair, one sleeve-front pair, one
sleeve-back pair, one front and one
collar according to the pattern
guidesheet.

armscye notches to the lower edge
mark. Add a 1 seam allowance to
the line (1).
Cut along the new drawn line.
Discard the pattern below the new
cut line.
On the front and back sleeve
pattern, draw a straight line 3 above
1 1/4
On the sleeve back, mark 3 above

the lower edge along the centerline.
mark with the front armscye notch.
Add a 58 seam allowance to the
drawn line (2).
Cut out the pattern pieces. Copy

one back and two sleeve pattern
pieces onto paper, transferring all
markings. Designate one sleeve
pattern as the front and the remaining pattern as the back.
On the back pattern lower edge,

mark 5 to the right of the centerback line. Note: Decrease the
measurement to show less back or
increase the measurement to show
more back.
Add
4.
5
5/8
5/8
Sleeve
Front
CUT
CONSTRUCT
Grainline
Knit top pattern with cowl neckline and three-quarter-length

sleeves (such as McCalls 7194)
Center Back
SUPPLIES
Sleeve
Back
Fold each back diagonal edge

and then 1 toward the wrong side;
press. Topstitch a scant 1 from
the edge.
Position the right-back right side
up on a flat work surface. Position
the left-back right side up over the
right side, aligning the center backs
and notches. Baste the armscyes,
shoulders and neckline (3).
Right
Back
Left
Back
SEWNEWS.COM
41
Fold each sleeve lower diagonal

edge and then toward the
wrong side; press. Topstitch a scant
from the edge.
Position the back sleeve right side
up on a flat work surface. Position
the front sleeve right side up over
the back sleeve, aligning the centers
and cap edges. Baste the sleeve cap
between notches (4).
Finish constructing the top according to the pattern guidesheet,
treating the back and sleeves as
one piece.
To hem the lower edge, fold the
lower edge and then 1 toward
the wrong side; press. Topstitch a
scant 1 from the edge.
DONT SWEAT IT
Whether you use them for a cardigan, top or vest, sweater knits are
a great way to add variety to your
wardrobe. Although working with
sweater knits can seem daunting,
learning a few tips will make stitching a breeze.
Always use a ballpoint needle.
The rounded point prevents holes
and snags during stitching. Select
a size 70/10 for lightweight or fine
knits and a size 80/12 or larger
for heavyweight knits. Use a twin
ballpoint needle for professionallooking topstitching.
Sleeve
Back
Sleeve
Front
Select a zigzag or stretch stitch

to prevent seam breakage on
stretchy fabric.
Sweater knits easily stretch out
of shape during stitching. Install
42
SEWNEWS.COM
a walking foot onto the machine

to prevent distortion. If using a
serger, decrease the presser foot
pressure or increase the differential feed to create straight
seams without ripples.
Apply a small strip of tricot interfacing or clear elastic along each
shoulder seamline wrong side to
prevent stretching at the seam.
Grade seam allowances to reduce
bulk and create smoother seamlines on the garment right side.
TURN YOUR Crafting INTO

A PROFITABLE CAREER!
All over the world, creatives are turning
their hobby into their livelihoodswhy
not you? Crafters Market is the only
book on the market that offers readers
the competitive edge needed to make the
leap from crafting for fun to crafting for
commerce.
This comprehensive guide will
introduce you to a whole new world of
possibilities. Whether youre looking to
expand your online presence or youre
just beginning to think about how to
turn your weekend hobby into a side
business, Crafters Market is the only
resource you need!
9781440246838 | 352 pages | $28.99
SHOPFONSANDPORTER.COM
Suit
Your
Fancy
BY KIM SABA
Use metallic brocade fabric to stitch

designer-inspired tuxedo pants
that truly make a statement.
McCalls 6901
44
SEWNEWS.COM
SUPPLIES
Semi-fitted tapered pant pattern
with fly-front closure (such as
McCalls 6901)
Mediumweight metallic brocade
fabric (amount according to pattern envelope; see Sources.)
Cotton batiste for underlining
(same amount as brocade fabric)
Interfacing & notions (according
to pattern)
78-wide silk satin ribbon (amount
determined by pant size)
1 yard of lightweight double-sided
fusible web (See Sources.)
All-purpose thread
Needles: hand sewing & size 75/11
sharp
Pattern tracing paper & wheel
Serger (optional)
PREPARE
Before beginning the alterations,
pin-fit or make a muslin fitting
sample of the pant pattern. Make
any necessary fit adjustments to
the pattern, and then trace a copy
onto paper, transferring all markings. For the featured sample, the
pants were shortened 1 to make
them ankle-length.
From the brocade and underlining

fabric, cut two pant fronts, two pant
backs, two pockets, two side fronts
and one waistband each. Transfer all
pattern markings to the underlining
right side.
BEAUTIFUL
BROCADE
Align each underlining piece with

the corresponding brocade piece,
wrong sides together; zigzag- or
serge-finish the perimeter. Treat the
two fabric layers as one.
Press brocade fabric on low

heat with no steam, and use
a press cloth. Always test a
fabric scrap before pressing
the main fabric.
From the interfacing, cut two zipper

fronts and one waistband according
to the pattern guidesheet.
Fuse each interfacing piece to the
corresponding fabric-piece wrong
side, following the manufacturers
instructions.
CONSTRUCT
Follow the pattern guidesheet for the
recommended seam allowances.
Learn tips and tricks for sewing

with metallic brocade fabric.
Only pin within the seam

allowance to prevent the metallic filaments from breaking
in visible locations.
The needle breaks the metallic filaments on the fabric
during stitching, so avoid
ripping out topstitching.
If needed, use a PTFE presser
foot to easily stitch brocade
fabric.
Staystitch the pants waistline, pants

pocket edges, and pocket perimeters.
Attach the zipper and pockets to
the pants, following the pattern
guidesheet.
Stitch the front and back darts.
With right sides together, stitch
the center-back crotch; press
open. Repeat to stitch the centerfront crotch.
Measure the pants-back side seam
from the upper-waistline edge to the
leg lower edge; add 1, and then
record. Cut two ribbon lengths
according to the measurement.
SEWNEWS.COM
45
From the fusible web, cut two strips

measuring 78 wide by the recorded
measurement.
Designate one ribbon side as the
wrong side. Position one ribbon
length wrong side up on a flat
pressing surface. Position one
webbing strip over the ribbon
wrong side with the paper backing
facing up; fuse (1). Remove the
paper backing.
Stitch one pant side seam with right
sides together; press open.
Center the ribbon right side up on
the pant back, aligning one long
edge with the side seamline; fuse
(2). Topstitch along each long ribbon
edge. Trim the ribbon upper and
lower ends even with the waistline
and lower edge.
Repeat to attach the remaining
ribbon to the opposite side seam.
Stitch the pants inseam with right
sides together and aligning the
front and back crotch seamlines;
press open.
2
Fusible Web
Finish the waistband and hem the

pants according to the pattern
guidesheet.
Ribbon
SOURCES
NY Fashion Center Fabrics provided the metallic brocade fabric: nyfashioncenterfabrics.com..
46
SEWNEWS.COM
Learn how
to embellish
any project
with machine
embroidery!
Absolute
Beginner
Machine Embroidery
with Sara Gallegos
Each episode of this exciting new 24-video series

will cover machine embroidery techniques, from
basic set-up to project completion. Learn about
products that make everything easier, faster and
more fun. Plus build your condence by trying
different design types, fabrics and stabilizer
combinations that lead to professional results.
Learn easy techniques to make your

projects extraordinary!
Host Sara Gallegos is a sewing and

quilting educator and served as host of
Behind the Seams and My First Quilt.
Shes a regular contributor to Sew
News, Creative machine Embroidery
and Quilters Newsletter magazines.
Find more information and the streaming videos at QNNtv.com.

Download the entire series at shopsewitall.com.
BROUGHT
TO YOU BY:
Babylock.com
Madeirausa.com
Sulky.com
Amazingdesigns.com
Brooches
in Bloom
BY AMANDA OGDEN
Combine free-motion embroidery

with scraps of treasured vintage
floral fabric to create a one-of-akind accessory. Use the existing fabric
motif as a base for a unique design.
48
SEWNEWS.COM
FREE-MOTION BASICS
Free-motion embroidery is a great
creative tool for sewists, quilters and
mixed-media artists of all kinds. With
just a few simple tools, steps and
practice, getting started is simple.
Set up the sewing machine by
dropping the feed dogs, the little
metal teeth that guide the fabric
through the machine. Without the
feed dogs in play, you will determine the stitch length and speed by
guiding the fabric through yourself.
Read the machine

manual to learn how
to lower the feed dogs.
You may need to cover
them with a plate or
simply press a button.
Attach a free-motion foot, also
called a darning foot. The foot has a
rounded shape and may be open at
the front.
Thread the needle and bobbin with
machine embroidery thread.
Set the stitch length and width to
zero. Depending on the machine,
begin by lowering the tension, and
then adjust as you sew, if needed.
For extra stability, and if the fabric
type allows, fuse interfacing or
stabilizer to the fabric wrong side.
Hoop the fabric in a hand embroidery hoop by placing it over the
outer ring, and then securing it in
place with the inner ring. Make sure

the fabric is taut but not stretched
or wrinkled.
PREPARE
With the presser foot up and the

needle in the highest position, place
the hooped fabric carefully under
the machine needle. Holding the
needle thread in one hand, turn the
hand wheel to make one stitch until
a loop of bobbin thread appears
above the fabric surface. Gently pull
on the loop to bring up the bobbin
thread. Lower the presser foot and
take two or three machine stitches
in the same location to secure the
threads. Trim the thread ends.
Select a flower or motif printed on

the fabric for the brooch base. If the
motif edge is very close to the fabric
edge, tack on a separate fabric strip
to extend the fabric for hooping.
Press the foot pedal and begin stitching, moving the hoop beneath the
needle. Practice writing your name,
stitching and filling small shapes and
stitching in multiple directions. If you
need to move to another area, stitch
two or three times in the same
location and trim the threads before
beginning again.
Free-Motion
Vintage Brooch
Prepare the machine for freemotion embroidery.
Fuse stabilizer or interfacing to the

fabric wrong side, following the
manufacturers instructions.
Place the fabric right side up over
the outside ring of the hand embroidery hoop, centering the flower or
motif. Align the inner ring over the
fabric and push the ring into the
outer hoop. Tighten the screw on
the outer ring to secure.
Using a removable fabric marker,
outline the motif on the fabric
right side (1).
SUPPLIES
Small scraps of floral vintage fabric
7 square or larger backing fabric
Fusible web or interfacing
6-diameter hand embroidery hoop
Coordinating machine embroidery
thread
Polyester fiberfill
1 38-long metal pin back
SEWNEWS.COM
49
EMBROIDER
CONSTRUCT
Position the hoop under the

free-motion or darning foot. Thread
the needle and bobbin with the
darkest thread color you plan to use.
Once the stitching is complete,

remove the hoop from the machine,
release the fabric from the hoop and
place a second fabric scrap behind
the stitched section.
Bring both threads to the fabric right

side and begin stitching. Use each of
the thread colors to enhance the
motif, matching the thread to the
color behind it and moving from
darkest to lightest. Trace the motif
contours to create depth.
Rehoop the fabric. Using the line

you drew earlier as a guide, outline
the motif shape and each element
that needs filling.
Release the fabric from the hoop,
and then flip it over. Through the
backing fabric only, carefully snip a
1-long opening behind one element
for stuffing (2).
Insert a small amount of fiberfill
through the opening (3).
Whipstitch or slipstitch the opening
closed (4).
Repeat to insert fiberfill into the
remaining motif elements.
Place a third fabric layer under the
stitched layers; rehoop the fabric.
Carefully stitch along the motif outer
perimeter.
Use tweezers to help

insert fiberfill into
small openings.
Remove the fabric from the hoop,

and snip the motif outer edge 18
beyond the stitches (5).
Return the sewing machine to
standard settings and install the
standard foot. Using a coordinating
thread color, satin stitch the motif
perimeter.
Hand stitch a pin back to the
brooch back.
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SEWNEWS.COM
Embellish the brooch

with hand-embroidered
French knots, beads
or sequins at the
flower center.
VA-VA-VA VINTAGE
Working with vintage fabrics
results in projects that are truly
one-of-a-kind. Here are a few
tips for working with delicate
vintage finds.
When looking to purchase
vintage fabrics, you may find
marks and faded or damaged
areas. The available yardage
without flaws may still be suitable for smaller projects.
Before using the fabric, wash
it gently by hand using warm
water and a mild detergent.
Rinse well and let dry. Press
the fabric using a cool iron at
first and, if the fabric responds
well, increase the temperature
if needed.
Because of their age, vintage
fabrics are typically not suited
for projects that get a lot of
wear or need regular laundering. An everyday bag or satchel
would encounter too much
wear and tear, so the fabric
might not survive. Instead, create a small evening bag for a
special occasion.
SEWNEWS.COM
51
Team
Neoprene
BY EMILY LI MANDRI
Add a designer piece to your wardrobe

with a neoprene jacket with contrasting
quilting and collar. Plus, discover how
to work with and source neoprene.
52
SEWNEWS.COM
SUPPLIES
NIFTY NEOPRENE
Neoprene is definitely on the
scene in designer and readyto-wear fashion. Its a synthetic
rubber material thats typically
used for scuba and surfing garments. Its resilient and a great
insulator, making it perfect for
a jacket. Read on to find it and
learn essential sewing tips.
Neoprene is sold by the yard
or by the sheet.
The recent popularity of neoprene has created a demand in
the home-sewing community,
prompting some traditional
fabric stores to carry it. If you
dont find it in store, ask to
order it.
Online stores carry neoprene in a wider variety of colors and finishes,
usually sold by the sheet.
Always use a rotary cutting system with a new blade. Apply even pressure for a smooth, accurate cutting line. Use a transparent ruler to
help stabilize the fabric and create straight edges, which is especially
important when leaving the edges raw.
Select a size 100/16 denim needle to ensure the needle is thick enough to
stitch through multiple neoprene layers.
Use polyester thread, which allows for some stretch in the seam.
Increase the stitch length to 3mm. If needed, loosen the needle tension to prevent thread tangles.
Install a roller foot or walking foot, and stitch slowly to help the fabric
easily feed through the machine.
Use binder clips to secure layers and prevent permanent holes created
by pins. If needed, pin only within the seam allowance.
1 yards of at least 52-wide or

one sheet of 3mm neoprene (See
Source.)
1 yards each of 2x1 rib knit &
-wide single-fold bias tape
Two 30mm-diameter sew-on snaps
Contrasting & matching polyester
thread
Needles: hand sewing & size
100/16 denim
Rulers: right-angle triangle &
straight transparent
Tailors chalk or removable
fabric pencil
Binder clips
Lighter
CUT
Download the Team Neoprene pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras
for free until Jan. 31, 2017. Purchase
the pattern at shopsewitall.com after
the expiration date.
From the neoprene, cut one
left-front panel, one right-front
panel, one back and two sleeves
using a rotary cutting system.
Cut one collar from the rib knit fabric.
Always test-stitch on a fabric scrap to ensure the presser foot, thread,

needle, stitch length and tension are correct.
SEWNEWS.COM
53
Install a new rotary

cutter blade to ensure
precise cuts when
working with neoprene.
1
QUILT
Position the right-front panel right
side up on a flat work surface. Place
a right-angle triangle ruler over the
panel with the right-angle corner
and straight edge along the center
front and the upper corner at the
panel upper-right corner. Using
tailors chalk or a removable fabric
pencil, mark the diagonal line,
extending it to the opposite panel
edge (1).
Draw a second line 1 from and
parallel to the first line. Repeat to
mark the entire right-front panel.
Place the right-angle triangle ruler

over the panel with the right-angle
corner along the lower edge and the
lower corner at the panel lower-right
corner. Using tailors chalk or a
removable fabric pencil, mark the
diagonal line, extending it to the
opposite panel edge (2).
Draw a second line 1 from and
parallel to the first line. Repeat to
mark the entire right-front panel.
Position the right-front panel next
to the left-front panel, aligning the
center fronts, necklines and lower
edges. Extend the marks from the
right-front panel to the left-front
panel to create a continuous
quilting pattern.
54
SEWNEWS.COM
Repeat to align each sleeve and the

jacket back to the front pieces to
continue the quilting pattern (3).
Install a denim needle and thread
the needle with contrasting polyester thread. Select a 5mm stitch
length. Topstitch along each mark,
leaving long thread tails at the
beginning and end of each line.
Double-knot the thread ends.
Using a lighter, quickly and carefully
melt the excess thread just beyond
the knot to seal the thread (4).
Wipe the jacket pieces with a damp
cloth to remove the markings.
CONSTRUCT
otherwise noted.
Install matching polyester thread
onto the machine and select a 3mm
stitch length.
Position the left-front panel and
corresponding sleeve at the armscye
with right sides together; secure
using binder clips, and then stitch.
Topstitch to either side of the
armscye seamline, catching the
seam allowances in the topstitching.
Repeat to stitch the opposite sleeve
to the corresponding back armscye.
Position the left-front panel and
back with right sides together,
aligning the sleeve underarm and

side seams; secure with binder clips,
and then stitch.
Topstitch beyond each side of
the seamline, catching the seam
allowances in the topstitching.
Repeat to construct the right-front
jacket, remaining sleeve and back.
Fold the collar in half lengthwise
with wrong sides together. Designate
the folded edge as the upper edge.
Position the collar lower edge over
the jacket neckline with right sides
together; pin. (The jacket center
front will extend 1 beyond each
collar end.) Stitch using a scant
seam allowance.
Unfold one bias-tape long edge.
With right sides together, align the
bias-tape long raw edge with the
jacket neckline, sandwiching the
collar between the jacket and bias
tape; pin. Stitch using a seam
allowance, beginning and ending at
the collar ends .
Fold the collar upward with the

seam allowance toward the jacket.
Trim the bias tape past the jacket
edge and fold the short ends toward
the bias-tape wrong side, aligning
the fold with the center front; pin.
Thread a hand sewing needle with a

single thread length. Hand stitch the
bias-tape fold to the jacket wrong
side using a blind-hem stitch,
continuing beyond the collar end and
around the remaining bias tape to
secure it to the jacket wrong side (5).
Thread a hand sewing needle with a
quadruple thread length. Hand stitch
the snaps to the right-front jacket
wrong side at the pattern markings,
making sure the thread isnt visible
on the jacket right side. Hand stitch
the corresponding snaps to the
left-front jacket right side at the
pattern markings.
Center Front
SOURCE
Macro International carries 3mm neoprene sheets:
macrointlco.com.
SEWNEWS.COM
55
Make
a Splash
BY STACY SCHLYER
Bring a little fun and adventure to

snuggling or story time by making
a mermaid or shark tail blanket for
your little one. The perfect gift,
this 50-long child-size blanketbag sews up so quickly, youll have
one finished before bedtime!
GREAT
GIFT
IDEA!
56
SEWNEWS.COM
Mermaid
MATERIALS
1 yards of cuddle fleece or
1 yard of cuddle fleece for body
and yard of cuddle fleece for
contrasting tail
All-purpose thread
Walking foot (optional)
CUT
Download the Mermaid Blanket
pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until Jan. 31, 2017. The pattern
will be available for purchase after
the expiration date at shopsewitall.
com. Cut out the pattern pieces.
From the main fleece, cut two
bodies on the fold and two 7x26
rectangles for the upper band.
Cut two tail sections on the fold
from the main or contrasting fleece.
CONSTRUCT
otherwise noted.
With right sides together, align one
tail piece upper edge with one body
piece lower edge; stitch. Repeat to
stitch second tail and body pieces.
Place the two pieces right sides
together, aligning the seams. Stitch
from one upper corner around the tail
to the opposite upper corner. Clip the
curves so the tail and body sections
lay flat. Turn the blanket right side out.
two band short ends together,
creating a loop.
Fold the loop in half lengthwise
with wrong sides together, aligning
the seams and raw edges. Baste the
raw edge.
Position the band along the blanket
upper edge with right sides together, aligning the seams and raw
edges; stitch.
Shark
MATERIALS
2 yards of gray cuddle fleece
yard of white fleece
(eyes & teeth)
Scraps of blue fleece (pupils)
Ruler
Water soluble marker
All-purpose thread
Walking foot (optional)
Temporary spray adhesive
CUT
Purchase the Shark Blanket pattern
From the gray fleece, cut two
bodies on the fold, two tails on the
fold, four fins and four 4x26
rectangles for the upper band.
SEWNEWS.COM
57
From the white fleece, cut two eyes

and seven teeth.
From the fleece scraps, cut two pupils.
CONSTRUCT
otherwise noted.
With right sides together, align
one tail piece upper edge with one
body piece lower edge; stitch.
Repeat to stitch the second tail and
body pieces.
Apply temporary spray adhesive to
the pupil wrong side and place on
the eye in the desired location. Stitch
using a zigzag or appliqu stitch.
Repeat to create the second eye.
Apply temporary spray adhesive to
the shark eye wrong sides, and place
3 from the blanket upper edge
and 6 from either side (1). Stitch
using a zigzag or appliqu stitch.
Align two shark fins with right sides
together; stitch the curved edges.
Clip the curves, trim the seams, and
then turn right side out. Repeat to
create a second shark fin.
Measure 8 from one blanket half
upper edge along one side edge;
mark. Position one fin on the blanket
right side with raw edges aligned and
the upper (convex) edge at the mark,
baste. Repeat to place the second fin
on the opposite edge (2).
Place the blanket pieces right sides
together, sandwiching the fins
between the layers. Stitch from one
upper corner around the tail to the
opposite upper corner. Clip the
curves so the tail and body sections
lay flat. Turn right side out, and then
set aside.
58
SEWNEWS.COM
Place an upper band right side up

on a flat work surface. Place a shark
tooth along the long edge 1 from
one short edge, right sides together
and raw edges aligned; pin. Place
another tooth 1 from opposite short
edge; pin. Evenly distribute the
remaining teeth between the pinned
teeth. Baste all teeth in place (3).
1
3 1/2
6
3 1/2
6
With right sides together, stitch

the shark-teeth band short edges
to another band, creating a loop.
Repeat to create a second band
loop without teeth.
Place the two loops right sides
together, sandwiching the teeth
and matching seams and raw edges.
Stitch the upper edge (the one the
teeth are basted to) together. Turn
right side out.
Align the remaining raw edges,
wrong sides together and matching
seams; baste.
2
8
Position the band along the

blanket upper edge with right sides
together, matching the seams and
raw edges; stitch. Turn the blanket
right side out.
SOURCE
Shannon Fabrics provided the cuddle fleece:
shannonfabrics.com.
USE A SERGER
to construct the
tails, if desired.
Find the "Serger
Success" e-book at
shopsewitall.com.
3
1
Check out the latest Sew with Me

product offerings at shopsewitall.com!
Find exclusive kits, videos and patterns
by your favorite sewing stars.
COLETTE PATTERNS
Expand your wardrobe and your sewing know-how with a variety of vintage-inspired patterns
and resources from Colette Patterns. Grab the classic, yet endlessly customizable Clover Slim
Pants Pattern and Laurel Dress Pattern. Then enhance your skills with Sew it All episodes and a
vintage sewing ebook, all available at ShopSewItAll.com.
Sew It All, Serger

Success, Episode 902
Clover Slim Pants
Pattern
Laurel Dress Pattern
Sew It All, Pattern Play,

Episode 208
Vintage-Inspired
Sewing eBook
LIESL GIBSON OF LIESL + CO.

Celebrated author and designer Liesl Gibson brings her classic style to Sew
News with two dynamic patterns: the Maritime Knit Top, featuring a chic
L I E S L + C O.
boatneck neckline, and the Gallery Tunic + Dress, with plenty of sophisticated design details and design options. Or grab the Gallery Tunic Pattern + Kit and make a
tunic in dreamy cotton lawn fabric designed by Liesl for Robert Kaufman. Need a refresher? Get
back to garment-sewing basics with two instructional videos hosted by Liesl. Find the patterns,
kit and videos at ShopSewItAll.com.
Maritime
M
iti
Knit
K
it T
Top
Gallery
G
ll
Tunic
T
i
G
ll
T
i Kit
Gallery
Tunic
CREATIVE SPACE
THE SEWING
WORKSHOP
BY KATE ZAYNARD
Go behind the scenes of The Sewing Workshop

with founder and creative director Linda Lee.
60
SEWNEWS.COM
inda Lee founded The Sewing

Workshop pattern company in
1991 after purchasing the San
Francisco-based sewing and arts
school of the same name. Today, The
Sewing Workshop is a multifaceted
sewing business that specializes in
education, patterns and products for
the home sewist. Based in Lees
hometown of Topeka, Kansas, the
company produces an avant-garde
line of sewing patterns, runs a
month-to-month subscription
program of sewing video tutorials
and sells designer fabric, hard-to-find
notions and Lees how-to books.
Lees designs cover a number of
styles, but she tends to gravitate
toward simple yet interesting geometric lines. I like asymmetry, the
perfect disguise for a not-so-perfect
figure, she says. Lee strives to create
interesting designs featuring great
fabrics, unexpected combinations
and unique details that inspire her
customers. Her goal is a satisfied
customer dressed in a style that
makes her feel attractive and comfortable. Lee works hard to make
sure the instructions that go with her
patterns are clear and easy to follow
so her designs are simple to make.
I have always been interested in
trends, Lee says. I want to be right
in the thick of them. To help with
that, she makes sure to employ people under 35. They keep it exciting,
Lee says of her four younger employees. A former interior designer, Lee
also takes much of her inspiration
from the interior design industry,
which she calls always on the move,
trend-setting, sophisticated and everchanging.
Lees interior design roots show in
the look of her building in downtown
Topeka. Its a historical building that
has been stripped down to the basic
elements of the architecture. The
floors are old wood, and the walls
are brick and stone. The ceilings
feature exposed joists, lots of contemporary lighting and unique wavy
foam ceiling panels that improve
SEWNEWS.COM
61
CREATIVE SPACE
acoustics and add ambient light.
Lee describes it as an industrial feel.
Nothing matches, which I love, Lee
says. I chose [the space] because I
like historical buildings and restoring
them, and the price was right.
The office is a little crowded now
that they have more employees, but
Lee can always retreat to her personal workspace, which is her favorite part of the office. Even though its
small, she loves that she can relax in
her Herman Miller Ergon chair while
she works on her iMac, clear her
mind by looking at her quirky artwork
or gaze out the window that opens
directly out to the street.
Lee also has a number of tables
so she can easily work on multiple
projects at once. She keeps her class
Learn more with Linda! Discover

a variety of skills and techniques
in your favorite format: ebook,
pattern or video. Find them at
shopsewitall.com.
Sign up for Linda's online course at
craftonlineuniversity.com, where
you will learn everything you need
to know about sewing bags.
62
SEWNEWS.COM
Q&A with Linda

Lee eBook
Get the very best of Linda Lees
column featured in Sew News
magazine. Learn a bounty of
unique techniques and tips, from
adjusting pants patterns and
sewing perfect necklines to bias
seams, hand smocking, underlining and more.
Luxe Linen
Sew a sturdy tote bag with laminated linen. With loads of cool
features like faux suede handles
and a metal zipper accent, this
bag pattern is the perfect blend
of everyday utility and sophisticated style.
materials organized using fabric-covered boxes that she keeps on rolling

industrial shelves like the ones used
in commercial kitchens. Everything
is mobile, she says, so there arent
too many challenges that we cant
address by changing things. While
shed like to add a quiet room for
small meetings, she appreciates that
impromptu meetings happen organically because of the open space.
Though Lee loves her hometown, she travels constantly for
the business. My influences come
from those travels, meeting people
from all over the world, she says.
Nonetheless, the Topeka office is
home to a great source of her inspiration. My employees are the most
inspirational things in my office.
Series
800
Craft U: The Anatomy of a

Bag: Tips & Techniques for
Sewing Bags with Linda Lee
Learn the ins and outs of all the techniques necessary to make a pretty and practical duffle bag. Learn
about making bags and totes, installing zippers,
making your own straps and more! This six-week
course begins Nov. 28, 2016. Visit craftonlineuniversity.com to enroll.
Sew it All TV: Rectangle

Skirt with Linda Lee,
Episode 808
Create an easy wrap skirt using two fabric rectangles that create an asymmetrical
hem. Choose from corduroy, cotton sateen,
denim, double knit, rayon, linen, raw silk or
woolthe possibilities are endless with this
forgiving design.
SEWNEWS.COM
63
SEW & TELL
ALONG
CAPE
SUPER
EXPRESS
BY RHONDA BUSS
The Cape Super

Express #224,
Islander Sewing
Systems
64
SEWNEWS.COM
ON THE BLOG!
The next Sew News Sew-Along
begins on Dec. 1, 2016. Well be
stitching the classic cape pattern
from Islander Sewing Systems. Each
week through December, visit the
Sew News blog for tips on stitching
the cape, easy solutions to tricky
sewing techniques, tips on sewing
with velvet and satins and more.
PATTERN DETAILS
A cape is a great outerwear piece
that can be worn over nearly every
garment in your wardrobe. It can
compliment everything from the
most casual ensembles to formal
evening gown attire. Capes can be
dramatic with the use of a bold
outer color such as deep reds or
metallic-colored velvets. While a
stand-up collar is more on the
casual side, a deep hood lends an
air of mystery to the wearer and
protects against the elements in a
stylish way.
A cape is not only a great addition
to a fall and winter wardrobe, but
its much easier to sew than coats
and jackets. There are little to no
fitting issues, no sleeves to set in
and buttonholes are not a neces-
sity. The Cape Super Express #224

can be made to fit any climate or
occasion simply by choosing the
appropriate fabric. With inseam
pockets and strategically placed
arm slots, this cape is comfortable,
stylish and wearable. The pattern is
sized from 2 to 24. Required
yardage for the outer fabric is three
yards. Suggested fabrics are wool
flannel, denim, rainwear type
fabrics or corduroy. Velvet and
wool gabardines can also be used.
BUY IT
Purchase the
Cape Super Express
#224 Pattern at
shopsewitall.com.
SEWNEWS.COM
65
SEW & TELL
SEW-ALONG SCHEDULE
Purchase the pattern and buy the
fabric, notions and supplies according to the pattern guide. Prep the
chosen fabric according to the
manufacturers suggestions and visit
the Sew News blog each week for
updates and further instructions.
Week 1: Week of Dec. 1
Pattern Elements & Fabric Choice
Construction, Attaching Collar &
Hood
Snaps & Buttonhole Placement
Lining & Finishing Details
ATTENTION TO DETAIL
Join the Sew News Cape Super
Express Sew-Along and learn
proper techniques for professional results.
Learn how to stitch smooth,
pucker-free seams.
Find techniques on how to
attach a lining for a professional finish (A).
Learn how to attach a bulkfree collar that lies flat (B).
Determine proper snap
placement with expert tips (C).
JOIN
Dont miss weekly how-tos
on the Sew News blog for
further instruction, tips
and hints from Rhonda:
sewnews.com/blogs/sewing.
66
SEWNEWS.COM
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CREATE
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STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION (required by Act of August 12, 1970: Section 3685, Title 39, United
States Code). 1. Sew News. 2. (ISSN: 0273-8120). 3. Filing date: 10/1/16. 4. Issue frequency: Bi-Monthly. 5. Number of issues published
annually: 6. 6. The annual subscription price is $23.98. 7. Complete mailing address of known ofce of publication: F+W Media, Inc.,
741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. Contact person: Kolin Rankin. Telephone: 305-441-7155 ext. 225. 8. Complete mailing
address of headquarters or general business ofce of publisher: F+W Media, Inc., 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. 9.
Full names and complete mailing addresses of publisher, editor, and managing editor. Publisher, Kristi Loeffelholz, F+W Media, Inc., 741
Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401; Editor, Ellen March, F+W Media, Inc., 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401;
Managing Editor, Veronica Graham, 160 S. 68th St, West Des Moines, IA 50266. 10. Owner: F+W Media, Inc.; Thomas F. X. Beusse, CEO,
10151 Carver Road, Suite #200, Cincinnati, OH 45242. 11. Known bondholders, mortgages and other security holders owning or holding
1 percent of more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None. 12. Tax status: Has Not Changed During Preceding
12 Months. 13. Publisher title: Sew News. 14. Issue date for circulation data below: AugSept 16. 15. The extent and nature of circulation:
A. Total number of copies printed (Net press run). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 64,950. Actual
number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 62,373. B. Paid circulation. 1. Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions.
Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 46,706. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to
ling date: 45,082. 2. Mailed in-county paid subscriptions. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0. Actual
number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 0. 3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors and counter
sales. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 4,532. Actual number of copies of single issue published
nearest to ling date: 4,400. 4. Paid distribution through other classes mailed through the USPS. Average number of copies each issue
during preceding 12 months: 0. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 0. C. Total paid distribution.
Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 51,238. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to
ling date: 49,482. D. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside mail). 1. Free or nominal outside-county. Average number
of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 10. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 7. 2.
Free or nominal rate in-county copies. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0. Actual number of copies
of single issue published nearest to ling date: 0. 3. Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other Classes through the USPS. Average
number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date:
0. 4. Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail. Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 137. Actual
number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 700. E. Total free or nominal rate distribution. Average number of
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 147. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 707. F. Total
free distribution (sum of 15c and 15e). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 51,385. Actual number of
copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 50,189. G. Copies not Distributed. Average number of copies each issue during
preceding 12 months: 13,565. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 12,184. H. Total (sum of 15f and
15g). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 64,950. Actual number of copies of single issue published
nearest to ling date: 62,373. I. Percent paid. Average percent of copies paid for preceding 12 months: 99.7% Actual percent of copies
paid for preceding 12 months: 98.6% 16. Electronic Copy Circulation: A. Paid Electronic Copies. Average number of copies each issue
during preceding 12 months: 448. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 390. B. Total Paid Print
Copies (Line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 51,686.
Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 49,872. C. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic
Copies (Line 16a). Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 51,833. Actual number of copies of single issue
published nearest to ling date: 50,579. D. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) (16b divided by 16c x 100). Average number of
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 99.7%. Actual number of copies of single issue published nearest to ling date: 98.6%. I
certify that 50% of all distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above nominal price: Yes. Report circulation on PS Form 3526-X
worksheet. 17. Publication of statement of ownership will be printed in the Dec/Jan 17 issue of the publication. 18. Signature and title of
editor, publisher, business manager, or owner: Kristi Loeffelholz, Group Publisher. I certify that all information furnished on this form
is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or
information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanction and civil actions.
All Styles Now Available Online From www.birchstreet-folkwear.com
Sewable Swedish
Tracing Paper
Dont cut your patterns! 10 yard rolls 29 wide

Trace your pattern with this durable, strong, see-through
and drapably soft pattern paper.
Call for price, free sample and pattern catalog
Birch Street Clothing
P.O. Box 280137, San Francisco, CA 94128

650-515-6190
www.birchstreetclothing.com
DEALER INQUIRIES INVITED
FASHION FETE
cokacoka / iStockphoto
.com
On Trend:
BY KIM SABA
COLOR Varsity-inspired
pieces are known for rich
saturated colors, such as
poppy red, marigold,
emerald and deep maroon,
paired with neutral cream,
gray and navy. Select one
statement color for a varsity
jacket and neutral colors for
the base garments.
FABRIC Look for natural fiber fabrics

for the most wearable and long-lasting pieces. Any weight knitwear,
especially cable, honeycomb and
jersey, are key elements that are
perfect layering pieces. Jackets and
skirts in boiled wool add a vintage
touch, and denim in any shade can be
a foundation for pants and skirts.
Varsity
Return to campus life with the resurgence of the

varsity trend. The sporty, athletic style is mixed
with a retro vibe to create a modern take on a
classic look. Traditional pieces, such as pleated
A-line skirts, turtleneck sweaters with stripes,
crewneck T-shirts and sweater dresses, round
out a complete varsity wardrobe. The main
staple, however, is a varsity jacket. Modern
letterman jackets are lighter, have a more
feminine cut and come in wide variety of
fabrics. Choose a knit jacket with a hood and
ribbed-knit cuffs or a classic woven body with
leather sleeves. Dress the jacket up with a
pleated skirt and booties or pair with fitted jeans
and pointy-toe flats for an everyday look.
GET THE LOOK Stitch a basic and

versatile shift dress in a knit fabric to
create a perfect foundation piece
for any varsity-inspired wardrobe.
Purchase the Laurel Dress pattern
by Colette Patterns at shopsewitall.
com to get started.
68
SEWNEWS.COM
EMBELLISHMENTS Bold graphics including numbers, team pennants and rugby

stripes transform basic looks into athleticinspired pieces. Add letterman appliqus,
such as a large chain-stitched patch, to a
varsity jacket front for a traditional look.
ASK THE
EDITOR
Sewing inspiration, successes, tips and more
with Senior Editor, Amanda Carestio
What are some of your favorite

patterns to sew as holiday gifts?
Ella B.
Thanks so much for tagging along this year as I shared some of
my favorite sewing patterns, independent designers, stitching
plans and inspiration. Its been fun to reflect on these trends and
topics AND get my sewing plans in order for the year.
If youre thinking quilt, go

for a small size, such as a
throw, with a larger scale
block. Easily scaled down to
a throw, the Echoes Quilt
makes the most of a large
block pattern with plenty of
white space, meaning
theres less to piece.
This month, Im all about the gifts. There really is nothing as

special as a handmade gift, but going handmade for the holidays
does require a bit of advanced planning. If youre starting late, like
me (!), pick patterns that are basic, quick to make and could work
for more than one person on your list. Theres nothing wrong
with using the holidays as an excuse to build out your basic
pattern library either; think about patterns that are easily used
again for birthdays and events throughout the year. Ive compiled
a list of some of my favorite last-minute gift ideas for the folks, big
and small, on my list.
The Spa Socks pattern

by Lucy Blaire is the
perfect teacher gift. This
year, Im planning to
make a batch and pair
them with some
essential oils for the
hardworking ladies who
chase my young ones
I definitely have a thing

for whales, which
means my kids have
whale things. The super
cute Softie Toy whale
pattern does double
duty: This easy-to-sew
3D pattern is the
perfect way to use up
Bags are some of my

favorite things to sew and
giveno fitting issues! The
Campfire Messenger Bag
by Noodlehead is the
perfect go-to: a great unisex
pattern that my mom will
love (then Ill shamelessly
use the pattern to make a
around all day.
scraps and selvages.
bag for myself).
shopwsewitall.com
shopwsewitall.com
noodle-head.com
interweavestore.com
The Valley Blouse from

Cali Faye Collection is
the best of both worlds:
Sew it up in something
special for the holidays
and use the same
pattern to sew some
everyday basics for the
rest of the year.
califayecollection.com
With two young boys in

my life, Im looking to
build my boy pattern
library with garments that
will be worn often and
last. The Coastal Cargos
from Blank Slate
Patterns fit the bill lots
of cute details and
definitely rugged!
blankslatepatterns.com
SEWNEWS.COM
69
HOME COUTURE
Industrial
BY KIM SABA
Mix wood, metal and leather in your home to

achieve the look of industrial interior design.
COLOR Avoid bright bold
colors in an industrial
space. Select warm neutral
tones, including shades of
gray paired with crisp
white. The accents of
metal and wood will add
textural contrast.
Jovy86 / iStockphoto.com
INSPIRATION Build your

own furniture, such as a
palette coffee table on
large casters or open
shelving from salvaged
wood and plumbing pipes.
Or upcycle vintage metal
warehouse carts and stools
for quick industrial accents.
INTERIOR Create the illusion of an industrial interior with

unfinished and rough surfaces, such as exposed brick and
concrete countertops. Select vintage or reproduction industrialinspired furniture and accents in metal and wood. Use modern
exposed Edison light bulbs and factory-inspired lighting fixtures
for an instant industrial look. Fabrics are a backdrop for the more
interesting furniture and fixtures, so choose neutral upholstery
fabric in simple durable weaves or high-quality leather.
GET IT Try your hand at

building a custom sewing table
with easy-to-follow building
plans. Look for salvaged wood
for a fun industrial touch. Get
started with the Sewing Table
Plans at shopsewitall.com.
70
SEWNEWS.COM
OFF THE SHELF

Stock your sewing library and increase your
know-how with the latest and greatest books.
SIGNATURE BAGS
by Michelle Golightly
Indulge your artistic side with Signature Bags. While the phrase homemade bag doesnt always bring the most stylish images to mind, youll find
Michelles designs to be fresh and fashionable. Theres something for
everyone to love, from clutches and purses to totes and backpacks.
Detailed step-by-step instructions, illustrations and tips ensure
success for every level of sewist. Includes patterns on CD.
shopsewitall.com
WIN A COPY!
Enter to win a copy of

Signature Bags on the
Sew News blog on
Jan. 6, 2017!
GERTIES ULTIMATE
DRESS BOOK
by Gretchen Hirsch
PATTERNLESS SEWING
MODSTYLE
by Patty Prann Young
Love the vintage look but prefer

modern patterns? Look no further than
Gerties Ultimate Dress Book. The first
half is a thorough overview of dressmaking skills; the second half is a
collection of fabulous dress patterns
inspired by the 40s, 50s and 60s. Youll
find something suitable for any occasion among Gretchens modern
updates to these classic styles. As a
bonus, all the patterns are included in
an envelope at the back of the book.
abramsbooks.com
Ditch the complicated patterns and

sew from simple shapes with Patternless Sewing MODstyle. Each section
has its own theme, including shirring,
stretchy fabric and pieces designed
for layering. Clear illustrations and
comprehensive instructions will teach
you to stitch a wide range of fashionable garments for women and girls
based on simple measurements.
ctpub.com
AMY BUTLERS
PIECE KEEPING
edited by Alice Mace Nakanishi
& Joanna Burgarino
Youll never look at patchwork the
same way again! In Piece Keeping,
Amy Butler puts a new spin on an old
technique. The book features
instructions for an assortment of
unique patchwork accessories, quilts
and home dcor projects that are
nontraditional yet charming. Theres
even a chic patchwork dress. The
patterns to make these exceptional
pieces are included with the book.
chroniclebooks.com
SEWNEWS.COM
71
LAST LAUGH
PEDAL PRIDE
I pride myself on being an expert seamstress, but
buying an embroidery machine was way out of my
comfort zone. When I got the machine home and
took it out of the box, I was mad that the foot pedal
was missing! I didnt want to drive an hour back to
the store, so I called them, upset. I was embarrassingly informed that my box was missing the foot
pedal because my model doesnt have one. Oops!
Elissa S.
HOLIDAY HORROR
I was lucky to work at a sewing store that allowed
employees to use their machines. One Christmas
Eve, I needed to get a few of my embroidered gifts
finished, so instead of heading home to use my
single-needle machine, I opted to stay late and use
our new 10-needle machine. I was about halfway
done with my pile and the clock was inching its
way to midnight. Being impatient, I attempted to
trim some topside threads between color sequences. As the last lock stitch happened and the needle
was moving to its next position, I hit the "STOP"
button. My timing and the machine timing were not
in sync. I stuck my hand under the needle bar to
grab the loose thread, and the needle came down
through my middle finger, just along the edge of
my nail. I had to pull out the needle with my teeth!
And the
LAST LAUGH
goes to...
Kari B., Facebook
BURNED OUT
HAPPY HOUR
I was so excited to finish up a made in one hour
skirt that I decided to add square patch pockets to
the front panel. Adding the pockets just as fast as I
sewed the skirt, I neglected to realize that I was
sewing the pockets on upside down. My made in
one hour skirt turned into a took me three times
as long skirt.
Meg G.
After completing a new mens dress shirt for my husband, I took it

over to the ironing board for one last press. I picked up the iron and
somehow it slipped out of my hands. I went to catch it out of
instinct and burned my hand. I ran to the kitchen to run some cold
water over my burns. After tending to my burn, I went back into my
sewing studio to find that I had left the hot iron face down on my
newly made shirt, which now features a severe iron-shaped singe
mark right on the front.
Mindy S.
Issue 356. Sew News (ISSN 0273-8120) is published 6 times a year in Feb/March, April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov, Dec/Jan by F+W Media, 741 Corporate Circle,
Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, CO 80401 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Sew News, P.O. Box
420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to Bluechip International, PO Box 25542 London, ON N6C 6B2 Canada.
72
SEWNEWS.COM
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FREE JACKET & SKIRT PATTERN INSIDE

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