Professional Documents
Culture Documents
ASSYRIAN AND
PERSIAN COSTUMES
AND DECORATIONS
BY
MARY
HOUSTON
G.
AND
FLORENCE
S.
HORNBLOWER
A.
4,
&
BLACK, LIMITED
SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
C.
1920
i.
CONTENTS
FAGC
...
43
75
vu
-LIST
OF PLATES
IN
COLOUR
PLATE
I.
II.
7
9
III.
13
IV.
The God
15
V.
Osiris
Ani, a Scribe
17
VI.
VII.
VIII.
IX.
21
23
25
29
X.
33
XI.
51
XIII.
King Assur-nasir-pal
XIV.
Queen of Assur-bani-pal
71
73
81
XII.
XV.
XVI.
LIST
IN
Fig.
2.
61
-
63
OF ILLUSTRATIONS
11
Fig. 3.
11
Fig. 4.
Sleeveless Tunic
11
IX
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONScow/irm^rf
------
Fig.
5.
Robb, Undeapbd
Fig.
6.
Fig. 10.
Two
Fig. 16.
14
18
19
20
27
31
35
37
Shawl or Drapery
32
Fig. 18.
Figs. 7, 8 and 9.
PAQII
Fig. 20.
Draping op a Cloak
Fig. 21.
Fig. 22.
38
...
39
49
Fig. 30.
Fig. 31.
55
Fig. 32.
57
Fig. 33.
59
65
67
67
An
Indian Sari
Figs. 34, 35
and
36.
41
58
Fig. 37.
Fig. 38.
Fig. 39.
69
Fig. 40.
80
-----
83
Figs.
41 and 42.
Figs.
43 and 44.
Drapery
Modern Drawing
Drapery
in
Ancient and
in
Ancient and in
in
Modern Drawing
85
Fig. 45.
Fig. 46.
87
89
LIST
Tunic, Sleeveless
Tunics, with Sleeybs
---------
8 and 11
n
11 and 69
kobbs
14 and 80
Skirt
26
Cape
26
26
GoiJiAB
Shawls or Draperies
Cloak
38
Corselets
Coats
84
39
-
Trousers
86 and 88
88
XI
OF DATED GARMENTS
LIST
ILLUSTRATED
B.C.
10
B.C.
16
B.C.
1200 B.C.
700 B.C. 550 B.C.
Fourth Century B.C.
First Century B.C.
A.D. 200A.D. 1920
.
8 AND 10
B.C.
36
B.C.
10
B.C.
16 AND 20
B.C.
36
38
6
36
30
8
30
40
52,
48
60
56 AND 62
-
58
68 AND 70
b.c.
b.c.
84
80, 82, 86
AND 88
13, 23
AND 29
DECORATION
Ancient Egyptian Decoration
Ancient Assyrian Decoration
WORKS OF REFERENCE
61,
6^ AND 73
5 AND 47
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF
As
is
one or two
varieties
may be found
which occur
in miUtary dress
in addition to these
this
volume.
all
find
over with
woven
or printed patterns,
and
girdle, these
examples given.
The
being often
See various
hues of red,
p. 66.
MATERIAL
The
weave
loosely
used.
it
was of a
was
chiefly linen.
DATES
The earliest types of costume were the tunics midway come the robes and skirts, and the draped or shawl
;
latest.
However, the
contemporaneously.
in this
been
all
new
continued to be worn
description,
and have
Museum.
IN
THEIR DRESS
It
similar.
The high
male costume,
if
was generally
girded,
Egyptian Works
" L'Art
d'Avennes,
Egyptians";
Leeman, "Aegyptiche MonuPrisse
mente";
" Monumenti Egitto";
oj
Hottenroth,
Racinet,
British
who cannot
visit
the
Museum
will
Le Costume"
Histori-
Egyptians ";
''
"Le Costume
que";
Sir J. G. Wilkinson, "Ancient
Rossellini,
Reference.
Reproducti(Mis.
for those
Plate
Plate
I.,
Egyptian drawing.
shown
B.C., is
an exact copy of an
modem
I.
figure
representation of the
is
Egyptian
a pecuUar one.
same type of
dress
is
braces
is
in
some
instances
This
tion,
which
but reaching, as
it
it
were,
PLATE
M.O.H.
F.8H.
del.
A GODDESS
pirup.
Plate
II.
The
striped
by the
:ury B.C.,
..,
line<^
the drawn-i
mother type
.irt.
The
woman
'
Fig.
\?
n:
j^ested
ox jug^ptian
oi'
:,
'^
of
:amely,
n don can
''ood by a
rapery on
+b'
easi'
Plate
le
of this
3 *:he
represented
1).
with
original
figure
is
lofty
of
ribbon
and
the
figure
on
scale
large
The person
is
omitted.
represented
is
PLATE
M.G.E.
I '.S.I I.
del.
A QUKEN
jiinje.
The
origin of
top to keep
quite
We
it
closed.
only
10
is
in
wood.
figure
Fig.
M"
s"
Fig.
1^:
9!^-
IJi"
22'
Fig.
2a
Fig. 3a
Fig. 4a
11
Plate
It will be noticed that the
is
chiefly confined
III.
in
is
and d on Plate
III.).
On
borders
(f,
g, h,
i),
The
dress fabric.
is
chiefly
To
garments
description
in
dyeing
Museum,
We have,
PLATE
III
f.n.u. jtc.
DETAILS or DECORATION
13
may
of
Type of
necessary, which
costunje.
garment
As
is
will
a hole
slit
is
down
The
material
is
sewn up the
from the
sides
Egypt and
by the natives of
Syria,
and
is
also,
worn
at
strange to
Brazil.
wear-
off
hem
not
it
does
trail as it
does
so that
on Fig.
o.
Fig.
5a
PLATE IV
M.G.H.
del.
F.S.H. ftmx.
THE GOD
OSIRIS
15
Plate V.
shows the same robe as
In this case the
Plate IV. worn in a different manner.
B.C.,
fall
To
16
PLATE V
F.S.H. pinx.
ANI, A SCRIBE
17
Fig. 6
18
Fig.
19
woman
is
an
illustration of a
is
is
robe worn by a
modern representation
is
kept
is
tied in
This robe on
women
is
also
being knotted.
Fig. 10
20
PLATE VI
M.Q. H.
del.
F.8.H. pinx.
SI
Plate VII.
The
characteristic
and beetle
(scarabaeus) (c).
Plates
I.
(a),
hawk
(b),
Egyptian costume.
Three other geometrical borders
two
all-over patterns (g
(d, e,
and
f)
and
g shows an
scale pattern
is
(which
geometric
is
motif,
on garments.
a favourite
be seen on the
22
mummies
in the British
Museum.
may
PLATE
JP-.b.U
fee.
DETAII-8
OF DECORATION
VII
Plate VIII.
The
may be
described
Cape"
and
without
the
as
shown
straight
at
in
(the
"Type
the
as
petticoat
Now
cape).
of Egyptian costume
was
this
sometimes
worn
or
skirt,
petticoat
cut
of
piece
Petticoat
of the
material
consists
11,
of
threaded through
knotted
is
d and e
of Fig. 11a in your hands and twist them till the
triangles a, b, c, and d, e, f, have become cords, and
then knot as shown in the diagram. ~ In the skirt piece,
Fig. 11b, sew together the two short sides.
As will
of
stuff,
is
weU
as the front.
collar is
down
cape.
The
collar,
which was
fastened
Fig.
the back,
is
is
lie).
similarly
no waist
cord two pieces of the upper edge about half a yard apart
;
is
is
crossed over
pulled
up and
PLATE
M.Q.H.
VIII
Jf'JSM. pinof.
del.
A QUEEN
25
ear,
draping
is
as
shown
in
sketch.
This particular
II.
worn both
by men and women. It is interesting to note that a
practically similar garment is worn in Burma at the
present day by both men and women.
Fig. 11a
Fig. 11b
Fig. lie
Fig, 12
Fig. 11
Compare
its
lines a decoration of
stripes.
27
Plate IX.
The noteworthy
plate
are
on
this
These are
an example
may
is
Fig; 21.
The
linen, or
Many
beautiful
28
Museum
is
from a feather
fan.
PLATE IX
f.S.IJ. fee.
DETAILS OP DECORATION
Fig.
1450
and
B.C.
This
cloak.
skirt,
which
is
frequently
fullness
is
cut to exactly
is
It
worn alone
wide
is
for the
caught up in each
this cloak is
of material.
all
effect of
13',
tightly
14,
and 15
drapery drawn
falling full
in front.
Fig.
14,
which dates
200,
a.d.
an Egyptian
at the waist,
is
skirt
tightening
it
in
15.
the tunic
divided into
is
two
straight
arid arm-holes.
marked
is
pieces of stuff
30
this,
Roman
figure wears
in Fig.
in
shows a
The
is
equally strongly
garments are
all rect-
To knot
figure, the
shown in
bunched up
in
Fig. 14
di
Drapery."
33, 34,
and
Fig. 16
S2
35.
PLATE X
F.i'.II.
pitn.
A PRIESTESS
33
is
shown
in
when they
realized
are actually
Figs.
seem to
To drape
Plate X.,
Fig.
16,
which
is
a modern drawing ot
tie
round the
make
some
pleats
side of waisL
der
left
arm-pit, pass
Fig. 19a
The width
tall figure,
say
5'
35
left side
front,
under
some
front
pleats in centre
left side
catch
of waist
up the
entire
For
it
pass the edge a-b round back of waist to the left side
36
82*
Fig.
18a
and pin
to front of waist
to the comers
left side
a and c
it
at the
of waist in front,
garment on
round the front tuck in a
few pleats in centre front
passing
the
into
pass
it
the
back
shoulder,
over
the
downwards
left
across
Fig. 18
shown
diagram
now
left wrist as
knot
it
which
20,
dates
century
sixth
21
shows
an
interesting
b.c.
It
B.C.,
man
cross
(Plan 20a).
This figure
is
B.C., is
described on Fig.
6,
at the side
stiff corselet
is
1300
S8
20
Fig.
is
b.c.
48*-
Fig.
Fig. 22,
b).
88
an
over garment
is
20a
fastened
1^
Fig.
Front
'.
21a
a
Back
/ \
b^
Fig.
22a
89